Mathews introduces its newest bow model — the Phase4™. Engineered with new Resistance Phase Damping™ Technology to drastically reduce vibration and built compatible with a completely redesigned line of Bridge-Lock™ Stabilizers, the Phase4 is the stealthiest hunting system to-date.

“For 2024, we focused on building a streamlined hunting system that had the least amount of noise and felt vibration in a fully setup bow,” stated Mark Hayes, design engineering manager. “The result is a complete hunting system that is up to 13% quieter with 37% less vibration.”

NEW Resistance Phase Damping™ Technology

Resistance Phase Damping™ (RPD) stops vibration at the source, resulting in the smoothest shooting archery system Mathews has ever created. This first of its kind innovation tackles excess energy directly in the limbs which significantly deadens and silences post-shot vibration.

“The real value of RPD is maximized when paired with our new Bridge-Lock stabilizers,” says Hayes. “We challenged conventional stabilizer design and ended up with a radically improved bar that is better balanced, absorbs more vibration and allows hunters to fine tune their setup like never before.”

NEW Bridge-Lock™ Stabilizers

Expanding on Mathews exclusive Bridge-Lock Technology, the new Bridge-Lock Stabilizers offer improved balance points and a stiffer connection to your bow for added vibration dampening and enhanced stabilization. InterLink™ Weight Technology makes adding and removing stabilizer weights easier than ever before with a redesigned threadless, stackable weight system that only requires one set screw for quick adjustments. Completed with a quick-disconnect knob allowing adjustability in ½” increments, the Bridge-Lock™ Stabilizers offer a new level of harmonic tuning and customization in a single bar. Available in 8”, 10”, and 12” length options and eight finish options to complete your hunting system.

The new Phase4 is available in 29” or 33” axle-to-axle lengths. The Phase4 29 has a 6” brace height and accommodates draw lengths from 25.5”-30”. The Phase4 33 has a 6.5” brace height and accommodates draw lengths from 27”-31.5”.

The Phase4 is available in eight finish options. You can find more information on the 2024 Phase4 and new accessory line at Mathewsinc.com and experience them today at your local Mathews Retailer.

MSRP

• Phase4 29: $1,299
• Phase4 33: $1,399
• Bridge-Lock Stabilizer (8”): $249.99
• Bridge-Lock Stabilizer (10”): $259.99
• Bridge-Lock Stabilizer (12”): $269.99
• Bridge-Lock Adjustable V-Bar: $199.99

About Mathews Archery

Mathews Archery has been committed to elevating the archery experience for over 31 years. All Mathews bows are designed and built in Sparta, Wisconsin, U.S.A. and distributed through independent retailers around the world. Experience the full line of premier target and hunting bows at mathewsinc.com and take a look at the 2024 new product guide here.

Fly fishing isn’t just fun to do- it’s fun to read about! There are many books about fly fishing out there. Some are narratives, while others are essential how-to guides that can help you get started, learn new skills, or troubleshoot mistakes. Here’s our list of the fly fishing books you need in your home library. We also have included links for where you can buy, rent, or download these books.

How-To Fly Fishing Books

These books provide guidance, instruction, and ideas for the modern fly fisher. Some of them are for general fly fishing; others are more technical or specialized. However you want to improve your fly fishing skills, there’s a guidebook out there for you.

The Essence of Flycasting by Mel Krieger

This classic fly fishing instructional text is one of the best books for learning the ins and outs of the sport. The Essence of Flycasting shows you in photographs and diagrams exactly how to perform the intricate movements needed to create the perfect cast.

Book Information:

• Length: 144 pages
• Year Published: 2001
• Buy on Amazon: The Essence of Flycasting

The Orvis Fly-Fishing Guide, Revised by Tom Rosenbauer

As a company, Orvis knows fly fishing better than almost anybody else. Their fly fishing guide is no exception to this rule. The author has been tying flies commercially since he was fourteen, and his four decades of fly fishing experience are distilled in these pages. A must have for any fly fishing enthusiast.

Book Information:

• Length: 408 pages
• Year Published: 2017
• Buy on Amazon: The Orvis Fly-Fishing Guide – Revised

The Orvis Guide To Beginning Fly Fishing: 101 Tips for the Absolute Beginner by Tom Rosenbauer

If the instructions in The Orvis Fly-Fishing Guide are overwhelming, this book will get you started. The advanced fly fisher probably knows everything in these pages, but everybody has to start somewhere. This book is ideal for beginners at any stage- whether you’ve learned a couple of casts or haven’t even bought your first rod and reel yet, this guide is practical and easy to understand.

Book Information:

• Length: 208 pages
• Year Published: 2009
• Buy on Amazon: The Orvis Guide to Beginning Fly Fishing

The Little Red Book of Fly Fishing by Kirk Deeter and Charlie Meyers

The Little Red Book of Fly Fishing is essentially a pocket guide to the sport of fly fishing, written by two veteran anglers who came together to demystify their passion. Featuring 240 tips that don’t require any advanced physics lessons or innate understanding of how fish think, this is a straightforward guide to the basics of fly fishing.

Book Information:

• Length: 224 pages
• Year Published: 2010
• Buy on Amazon: The Little Red Book of Fly Fishing

Tactical Fly Fishing: Lessons Learned from Competition for All Anglers by Devin Olsen

Most of us will never be professional fly fishers, but that doesn’t mean we can’t learn a lot from the pros. Devin Olsen is a repeat medalist in global fly fishing competitions, and his techniques for winning are explained in this volume. He does a good job of taking what he knows and applying it to everyday situations, allowing anyone to fish more successfully on rivers, small streams, and still waters.

Book Information:

• Length: 224 pages
• Year Published: 2019
• Buy on Amazon: Tactical Fly Fishing – Lessons Learned from Competition for All Anglers

Fly-Fishing Advice from an Old-Timer: A Practical Guide to the Sport and its Language by Ed Quigley

Take some advice from a veteran of the sport and sit down with Ed Quigley’s book on fly fishing. Quigley’s straightforward explanation of the basics and detailed discussions of advanced topics are easy to understand, and his ingenious tips and compelling anecdotes from his own years of experience fly fishing streams from Labrador to Costa Rica and beyond make the book very enjoyable.

Book Information:

• Length: 352 pages
• Year Published: 2014
• Buy on Amazon: Fly-Fishing Advice from an Old-Timer – A Practical Guide to the Sport and Its Language

A Guide’s Guide to Fly-Fishing Mistakes: Common Problems and How To Correct Them by Sara Low

As a licensed fly fishing guide, Sara Low has seen it all. If it can go wrong on the water, she’s seen it- and has some good ideas about how to correct these problems. This book offers solutions for fly fishers on many topics, including approaching fish, fly selection, proper fly presentation, consistent and accurate casting, and techniques for hooking and landing of fish, as well as pointers for fishing in spring, summer, fall, and winter. This isn’t a book you’d typically sit down with and read cover to cover (although you can do that if you want); instead, it’s the book you pull out when you have a problem you want to fix. It’s an invaluable guide for any angler who wants to up their game.

Book Information:

• Length: 224 pages
• Year Published: 2016
• Buy on Amazon: A Guide’s Guide to Fly-Fishing Mistakes – Common Problems and How to Correct Them

Basic Fly Tying: All the Skills and Tools You Need to Get Started by John Rounds

Fly tying is one of many challenging aspects of fly fishing, and this book is a great introduction to it. It features photographs and illustrated diagrams to help you get the knack of the basic fly components. It illustrates every phase of the tying process, from clamping the hook in the vise to executing the final whip finish, and everything in between. You’ll learn seven of the most effective and foundational patterns for nymphs, streamers, and dry flies.

Book Information:

• Length: 90 pages
• Year Published: 2002
• Buy on Amazon: Basic Fly Tying – All the Skills and Tools You Need to Get Started

Nonfiction Fly Fishing Books

The history and culture of fly fishing is a massive part of the sport’s development. Participating in it is part of the fun, too! The following books all have something to say about what it means to be a fly fisher. Whether they’re personal stories, histories, biographies, or anything else, everything in the following books will help you understand the sport we all love.

The History of Fly-Fishing in Fifty Flies by Ian Whitelaw

The History of Fly-Fishing in Fifty Flies recounts the history of a sport that dates back 2,000 years, focusing on milestone flies from the first feathered hook to contemporary patterns using cutting-edge materials. While it might seem impossible to choose only 50 flies among the countless fly patterns dating back two millennia, these flies represent the development of the very sport itself. They chart the spread from its modern origins on the chalk streams of England and Scottish rivers to every country in the world. Filled with profiles of the key people involved, tying tips, photographs and illustrations of the flies, The History of Fly-Fishing in Fifty Flies is a fascinating look at the history of this fascinating sport.

Book Information:

• Length: 224 pages
• Year Published: 2015
• Buy on Amazon: The History of Fly-Fishing in Fifty Flies

The Unreasonable Virtue of Fly Fishing by Mark Kurlansky

Like all of Mark Kurlansky’s books, The Unreasonable Virtue of Fly Fishing is a deep dive into a subject the author finds fascinating. Kurlanksy’s observations aren’t just about the fly fishers, but about the fish themselves. He is deeply in love with the complexities of the sport and the battle between fish and fishermen, and his book is a combination of love letter and sport history. A very fun read!

Book Information:

• Length: 304 pages
• Year Published: 2021
• Buy on Amazon: The Unreasonable Virtue of Fly Fishing

Trout: An Illustrated History by James Prosek

If you want to catch a trout, you need to know as much as you can about it- how it looks, where it eats, what part of the water it likes, and much more about its behavior and evolutionary history. Prosek’s lavishly illustrated book features original watercolors alongside a fascinating natural history of the fish themselves.

Book Information:

• Length: 168 pages
• Year Published: 1996
• Buy on Amazon: Trout – An Illustrated History

Dumb Luck and the Kindess of Strangers by John Gierach

We recommend any and all of John Gierach’s fly fishing books, but we picked this one because it’s very approachable and is a great example of his prose. Fifteen books and countless articles and columns have made John Gierach probably the most prominent fishing writer in America, and his books encompass his love of the sport and the people who practice it.

Book Information:

• Length: 256 pages
• Year Published: 2020
• Buy on Amazon: Dumb Luck and the Kindness of Strangers

The Longest Silence: A Life in Fishing by Thomas McGuane

This collection of 40 essays shows what dedication to a sport reveals about life. Both funny and reverent at the same time, each piece shares McGuane’s deep experience of wildlife and the outdoors and love for the sport he pursues. The book takes you around the world, from Florida tarpon to Icelandic salmon, and provides you with an intimate look at many varied lives who all share one thing: a love of fly fishing.

Book Information:

• Length: 384 pages
• Year Published: 2019 (most recent edition)
• Buy on Amazon: The Longest Silence

The Optimist: A Case for the Fly Fishing Life by David Coggins

There’s plenty of books about fly fishing and being a fly fisher, but fewer exist about the philosophy of fly fishing. This is one of those: an argument for the skills and sensibilities of fly anglers around the world. It’s a meditation on how fishing teaches focus, inner stillness, and a connection to the natural world, all while being couched in entertaining fishing stories. It shares a great perspective on how fly fishing and the attitudes it requires really can improve your life- but if you’re a fly fisher, you probably knew that already.

Book Information:

• Length: 256 pages
• Year Published: 2021
• Buy on Amazon: The Optimist – A Case for the Fly Fishing Life

Fly-Fishing the 41st by James Prosek

Fly fishing is practiced around the world. In Prosek’s case, this is literal. Fly-Fishing the 41st chronicles his adventures fishing around the 41st parallel- the same latitude, all the way from Connecticut to Mongolia, with stops in Greece, Japan, Kyrgyzstan, and many other exotic fishing locales. It’s a very interesting look at lesser-known fly-fishing destinations and the people who live there.

Book Information:

• Length: 336 pages
• Year Published: 2004
• Buy on Amazon: Fly-Fishing the 41st

Fly Fishing Novels and Fiction

Fly fishing is a great backdrop for fictional stories- it’s a wonderful way to let characters self-reflect, learn about themselves, and even grow a little bit. When you sit down with any of these tales, you’ll find yourself wishing that you could fish these fictional locales!

The River Why by David James Duncan

One of the classics of the unofficial fly fishing book canon, The River Why has been popular since its publication in 1983. The novel is a coming-of-age comedy about love, nature, and the quest for self-discovery, set in the Pacific Northwest and featuring one man’s quest for steelhead salmon. The story’s protagonist, Gus Orviston, seeks function in a remote cabin away from his dysfunctional family. For Gus, fly fishing isn’t just a physical experience; it’s a spiritual one as well, as his quest for self-knowledge tests him with unpredictable experiences.

Book Information:

• Length: 418 pages
• Year Published: 1983 (most recent edition 2013)
• Buy on Amazon: The River Why

A River Runs Through It and Other Stories by Norman Maclean

Perhaps the best-known fly fishing story in history, A River Runs Through It is just as exciting a novella as it is a film. Maclean’s passion for fly-fishing, the natural world, and the interplay of life and art, created a classic of the American West. This new edition, with a foreword by Robert Redford, will introduce a fresh audience to Maclean’s beautiful prose and understated emotional insights.

Book Information:

• Length: 262 pages
• Year Published: 2017 (this edition)
• Buy on Amazon: A River Runs through It and Other Stories

Hemingway on Fishing by Ernest Hemingway, edited by Nick Lyons

It shouldn’t come as a surprise that the author of The Old Man and the Sea was a passionate angler himself. From his Michigan childhood to his twilight years in Florida, Hemingway was never far from a river or ocean. Fly fishing was a constant feature of his life, and this book collects his short stories and articles that revolve around the pursuit of fulfillment on the open water.

Book Information:

• Length: 272 pages
• Year Published: 2002
• Buy on Amazon: Hemingway on Fishing

The Laughing Trout: A Novel of Fly Fishing in A Mad, Mad World of Love and Pandemonium by Jim Ure

If you’ve ever been on a group fishing trip, you know the mayhem and hilarity that often follow. This story is the story of a professional fishing guide who tricks his annoying game warden cousin- and by extension, most of the world. He watches as his little corner of the river descends into bedlam- but coming clean might mean wrecking his best chance at finding true love. What’s a fly fisher to do when the world descends on his river in search of a fish that doesn’t exist? In this case, he just has to laugh about it.

Book Information:

• Length: 215 pages
• Year Published: 2013
• Buy on Amazon: The Laughing Trout

The Reel Sisters by Michelle Cummings

The Reel Sisters is the story of five women who would otherwise never be friends, were it not for their devotion to fly fishing. It’s a powerful novel about how anyone, no matter who they are or where they come from, can find themselves through fly fishing and learn a little bit more about how they work in the world each time they step into the river.

Book Information:

• Length: 412 pages
• Year Published: 2017
• Buy on Amazon: The Reel Sisters

Travers Corners: Classic Stories about Fly Fishing and a Small Montana Town by Scott Waldie

In the same spirit as Garrison Keillor’s A Prairie Home Companion, Scott Waldie’s Travers Corners takes you to a rural town where “nothing much has happened since Herbert Hoover stopped for gas.” What Travers Corners lacks in modern media and conveniences, it makes up for with the quality of the local fishing. You’ll fall in love with the cast of characters in this quirky little community- it’s just a shame they’re all fictional!

Book Information:

• Length: 151 pages
• Year Published: 2014
• Buy on Amazon: Travers Corners – Classic Stories about Fly Fishing and a Small Montana Town

Conclusion

This list is never complete. New content and books are coming out every year. If you’d like to see new additions to this list, contact us with your thoughts.

Compiled by DU Magazine Editors

The fall Canada goose migration is one of the grandest spectacles in the natural world. Flying south in large V formations, these big, garrulous birds capture the attention—and the imaginations—of folks all across the country. Hunters in particular look forward to this fall flight as honkers gather in great numbers on migration and wintering areas. Resident geese are also part of the show, and together these birds offer waterfowlers plenty of exciting hunting opportunities.

Over the years, Canada goose hunting has become a highly specialized sport. It takes a combination of hunting savvy, good equipment, and persistent effort to consistently outwit these challenging game birds. Here are 40 tips from some of the nation’s top Canada goose hunting experts to help you bag more geese this season.

Calling

Follow this sound advice to become a more effective goose caller in the field by Wade Bourne

1. Choose the Right Call

Canada goose calls come in three basic styles: resonant chamber, flute, and short-reed. Resonant chamber calls are the easiest to use but are limited in the range of sounds they can make. Flute calls, which take more skill to blow, produce a broader range of sounds and are more realistic and mellow in tone. Short-reed calls produce the widest range of Canada goose sounds and are the handiest calls for expressing excitement and aggression. They are also louder than other calls and require less air to operate. Learning to blow a short-reed call effectively does take some practice, but this call’s versatility makes it well worth the effort for serious goose hunters.

2. Seek Proper Instruction

The best way to learn to call geese is to work one-on-one with an experienced caller. An expert can help you develop proper calling techniques and avoid some of the pitfalls and bad habits that can plague novice callers. The next best way to learn is to watch an instructional DVD or online video. These resources offer plenty of how-to instruction and tips for improving your calling.

3. Start with the Basics

To imitate Canada geese you need to learn four basic calls. The first and most identifiable sound is the honk, which is typically a relaxed, contented call. A cluck is a shorter, faster honk with more intensity and excitement. A murmur is the sound that geese make while feeding and loafing. A moan is a universal call. Sometimes it signals contentment, other times excitement—and it’s typically made by geese in flight or on the water. All other Canada goose calls consist of combinations or variations of these four fundamental sounds.

4. Pour It on Distant Birds

When geese are passing at long distances, hit them with a “wall of sound.” That is, call with loud, continuous honks, clucks, and moans. Produce as much excitement as possible. Do so with a loud, high-pitched call that cracks sharply between low and high notes. Continue hailing the geese with this rapid, loud calling style until they turn your way or fly out of earshot. The goal here is to capture their attention and convince them to come to you instead of flying on to their intended destination.

5. Ease Off When You Turn ’Em

Once Canada geese turn in your direction, shift from loud calling to “ground talk”—contented calls that geese make on the ground. These include murmurs, moans, and occasional clucks. At the same time, be careful to gauge the birds’ reactions. If they start sliding away, revert back to more excited, aggressive honks and clucks. As soon as the flock turns back toward your calling, tone it down again. The more experience you gain, the better you’ll be at adjusting the mood and tempo of your calling to match the reactions of the geese.

6. Convince Them with Comebacks

When Canada geese approach a decoy spread and suddenly veer away, try using comeback calls to convince the birds to return. Many callers believe that only excited moans should be used in this situation. In fact, just about any form of enthusiastic calling can be used to persuade geese to turn back. One very effective comeback routine is a combination of moans, clucks, and spit notes blown loudly and rapidly. The idea is to use excitement and forceful calling to overcome the departing birds’ timidity and pull them back toward the decoys.

7. Synchronize Your Calling

Multiple callers can frequently exert more “pulling power” over a flock of geese than one caller alone. The notes are doubled or tripled, thereby increasing the excitement and attraction to passing birds. Remember, though, that there’s more to it than simply making more noise. Callers should work together to sound as natural as possible. For example, one caller might blow a flute call to produce mellower notes while his partner blows a short-reed call to make higher, sharper sounds. Having a lead caller who sets the tone for others by telling them when to ease off or pour it on is also helpful. Callers should practice calling together to synchronize their cadences and learn to avoid piling notes on top of each other. Be mindful that too much calling can spook geese. If a flock shies away, one or more callers should quit calling to reduce the pressure.

8. Call Carefully on Big Water

On big rivers, lakes, and marshes an abundance of water gives geese plenty of potential landing spots. Catching the attention of flocks passing at long distances and steering them toward your spread is essential in such situations. If the wind is high or the geese are flight birds, call loudly and continuously, toning it down as they draw closer. When the wind is calm or if the geese are local birds coming off a nearby refuge, reduce the noise and call with more discretion than force. In this latter case, use a call that’s deeper pitched and softer.

9. Build Your Skills in the Field

After mastering the four basic calls, practice making them until they become second nature. Learn calling routines that communicate a range of emotions—from calm and relaxed to excited and aggressive. Visit areas where Canada geese rest and feed, and observe how their calls match their interactions. Finally, spend as much time in the goose pit or blind as possible. Experience is one of the best teachers in goose calling. Learn what works best in different hunting situations, and enjoy the success that will come as your calling skills improve.

10. Don’t Overdo It

The biggest mistake most goose callers make is overcalling. Too many callers mistake speed and volume for emotion. Calling geese is more art than science. There’s a definite feel to it. You have to learn to read how the birds are reacting to your calling and make adjustments as you go. Call with a “message” instead of blowing a lot of fast notes. As mentioned earlier, there’s a lot more to goose calling than simply making noise.

Decoys

Set a better goose spread with these tips from the Avery Outdoors pro staff by Bill Buckley

11. Set Decoys Near Good Cover

Keep concealment in mind when you are placing your decoys in open fields or pastures. You will almost always bag more birds by hunting where you can hide, even if it puts you 50 to 100 yards off the X. Look for rows of tall grass, piles of crop stubble, or a dip in the terrain where you can conceal layout blinds. Use online satellite land-cover maps and apps to find good concealment spots that you may not see from ground level. —Casey Self, Kansas

12. Avoid Getting Stuck in a Rut

Hunt the same area with the same spread day after day and it won’t take long for local geese to recognize and avoid your decoys. As the season progresses, give your spread a fresh look by varying the number of decoys you use as well as the configuration. Watch how the birds react. If they’re not decoying the way you’d hoped, change up your spread. Otherwise your luck isn’t likely to change. —Kevin Addy, Pennsylvania

13. Don’t Mix Up Your Decoys

Each type of decoy creates a certain illusion. This is true whether you’re using full-body decoys, shells, wind socks, or silhouettes. Mixing these different decoy types can give your spread a mismatched look, which can keep geese from finishing like they should. Full-body and shell decoys of the same brand are the exception to this rule because they are similar enough in appearance to be used in the same spread. In almost all other cases you’ll see better results if you stick to using one type of decoy in your spread. —Mike Bard, New York

14. Balance Your Spread

Whatever the size of your spread, it should consist of roughly 80 percent feeder and 20 percent “active” decoys. Group most of the feeders upwind of where you want the birds to land, near the spread’s center. Then place the active decoys downwind of this group to look like birds that just landed and are walking toward the feeders. Position some actives around the outside of the spread in small bunches of three to seven decoys, keeping in mind that it’s normal for geese to have their heads up when they first land. You can also position lines of feeders to mimic geese that are competing for a concentrated food source. Watch birds in the fields when you’re scouting and set your spread to imitate them. —Vance Stolz, Colorado

15. Be a Contrarian

If everyone else in your area is hunting in the middle of cornfields, try setting up somewhere else, such as a pasture pond, river bend, field edge, or anywhere that geese are not accustomed to seeing hunters. If other hunters are using big spreads of full-bodies, try a significantly smaller spread of highly realistic fully-flocked decoys. The goal is to make your spread look different from what the majority of hunters in your area are using. —Ben Cade, Minnesota

16. Scale Down Your Setup

You can deploy the best decoy spread in the country, but you won’t fire a shot if you don’t have adequate concealment. The more layout blinds you use, the greater your chances of being seen by incoming geese. If you have six hunters, try setting out three layout blinds and then rotating shooters among them. Escaping detection by decoying geese should be your number one priority. You can also control the hunt better with fewer blinds. Communication is easier. And it’s also easier to call the shots when the geese are coming straight into the decoys, which can result in higher-percentage shooting. —Travis Mueller, Iowa

17. Spread Out Decoys and Hunters

As the season progresses, geese get wise to rows of layout blinds and masses of decoys. By spreading out hunters (always with safety foremost in mind) and hiding them in clusters of decoys, you accomplish several things. First, birds conditioned to looking for rows of blinds will have a harder time spotting danger. Second, setting decoys in scattered family groups mimics a natural, relaxed flock and gives you a bigger footprint and more drawing power. And finally, flagging and calling locations are also dispersed, making you look and sound less like a group of hunters and more like an actual flock of geese. —Ben Cade, Minnesota

18. Get Out of the Way

Late-season geese are adept at spotting suspicious rows of bumps—telltale signs of hunters lying in wait. Setting up with your blinds facing downwind—and therefore directly in line with the birds’ approach—only invites trouble. To reduce the likelihood of being detected, place your blinds 10 yards to the side of the landing hole or parallel to the wind. Now the geese will see nothing but decoys in front of them, and your crossing shots will likely be at backpedaling birds. —Mike Bard, New York

19. Bring High Incomers Down

Few situations are more frustrating than high-flying geese coming straight over your spread and seeing your blinds, as often happens on days with little or no wind. To prevent this from ruining your hunt, grab six decoys and walk 50 to 60 yards downwind (or in the direction the geese are coming) and place them in two groups on either side of your spread. While this will certainly position these decoys beyond gun range, the whole idea is to get approaching birds to lose altitude. When the next flock approaches, the geese will likely focus on these decoys and start dropping. Don’t call until the birds commit, and then be prepared to call and flag aggressively to prevent them from short-stopping. Once you pull the birds past the downwind decoys, call only as much as is needed to keep them on a string. —Casey Self, Kansas

20. Keep Frost Off Your Decoys

Frost presents a real challenge for goose hunters on cold, clear mornings. Even fully flocked decoys can frost up quickly under such conditions, and when the sun rises they’ll shine and flare geese. To reduce the chances of your decoys frosting up, brush up your blinds and organize your guns and gear first, then set out the decoys right before shooting time—as late as you can without missing the first flight. The less time the decoys have to collect frost before sunup, the better. —Arliss Reed, New York

Strategies

These time-honored tactics are sure to improve your goose hunting success by Wade Bourne

21. Find the “X”

In the morning, Canada geese will typically return to the spot where they were feeding the previous afternoon. This is why scouting is crucial. When you find a feeding flock, wait until the birds fly back to roost before going into the field to pinpoint their feeding area. Check the ground for fresh droppings, and when you locate them, take a GPS reading or mark the spot so you can return to it the next morning in the dark.

22. Follow the Leader

Every goose hunting party should have a recognized leader. The job should typically go to the most experienced hunter or caller. The leader watches the geese work and determines not only when to call and flag based on the birds’ reactions but also when to shoot. By directing the calling and shooting for the group, the leader helps ensure that other hunters stay concealed and that the hunt progresses smoothly and safely.

23. Don’t Forget to Flag

Flagging goes hand in hand with calling and should be used primarily to gain the attention of passing geese. Several hunters waving flags intermittently can help pull birds in by simulating a flock of geese landing among the decoys. When the geese turn toward your spread, however, only the lead caller should flag, and he or she should stop flagging when the birds fully commit and are on their final approach. If the geese veer away, resume flagging and calling to regain their attention and turn them back toward the decoys.

24. Hunt without Decoys

While most Canada geese are taken over decoy spreads, pass-shooting and jump-shooting are also effective hunting methods for these birds. Pass-shooters should scout to see where geese are entering and exiting a feeding field, then position themselves in cover beneath these flight lanes. Try to hide as close to a feeding area as possible to intercept low-flying birds. Sometimes a call can be used to entice geese (especially singles) to fly directly overhead. Jump-shooters should use cover such as thickets and fencerows and other topographical features to slip within range of feeding geese and shoot them when they flush. Success with both of these techniques requires sound strategy, patience, and good concealment. Like all waterfowlers, pass- and jump-shooters have an ethical responsibility to not take shots at geese at marginal ranges.

25. Get Low in Small Spreads

Not all hunters can deploy dozens of full-body decoys that offer enough concealment to hide several layout blinds. If you’re using a small spread of three to four dozen decoys, a good way to make layout blinds disappear is to dig them in (with the landowner’s permission). This helps lower a blind’s profile, making it much harder for geese to spot. It takes only a few minutes to dig a shallow “grave” to conceal a layout blind. With mud or sand filled in around its edges and camouflaged with natural vegetation, you will be virtually invisible to incoming birds.

26. Don’t Limit Layout Blinds

Layout blinds aren’t just for field hunting. These portable hides can also be used effectively in other locations, such as on river sandbars, mudflats, pond edges, and sheet water collected in fields after a heavy rain. Some layout blinds can even be equipped with waterproof tubs that allow them to be used in water up to a foot deep.

27. Mind the Details

Pay attention to small details to make your hunting setups as natural looking as possible. For example, when camouflaging layout blinds in a cornfield, use stubble gathered onsite. Add additional stubble to blinds as needed during the hunt. Also, be sure to pick up spent shotgun shells and keep your eyes open for anything out of place that might alert geese to danger.

28. Take it Easy with Young Retrievers

Retrieving a full-sized Canada goose can be a daunting prospect for a young duck dog. You can avoid an unpleasant experience that might dampen a retriever’s enthusiasm for goose hunting if you start your dog out on doves and ducks, and introduce him to geese only after he has a year of duck hunting behind him. If your dog shows some initial reluctance about retrieving a goose, go out into the field with him, pick up the bird, and encourage him to take it from your hand. Soon he should overcome his hesitancy and retrieve geese with gusto.

29. Hunt the Afternoon Flight

In bitter cold weather, Canada geese often adjust their daily routines to conserve energy. One of the ways the birds do this is by spending the morning on the roost and flying out to feed when the temperature peaks during the afternoon. At these times, scouting is essential to determine exactly when and where the geese are feeding. Once you have the birds patterned, get to the field early to make sure you have plenty of time to set up before the first flights arrive.

30. Get Real in the Snow

Grainfields covered in snow can provide productive goose hunting, but you usually have to put in some extra effort to ensure success. For example, you can make your spread look more realistic to approaching geese by using rakes and shovels to expose large areas of dirt and stubble both downwind of and among the decoys. These disturbed areas, which look as if geese have been rooting under the snow to find food, are visible to birds in flight from a good distance. Conceal layout blinds with snow covers and Avery Real Snow Spray to blend in with the white background.

Shooting

Here’s how to make every shot count on your next goose hunt by Phil Bourjaily

31. Angle Blinds for Better Shots

If you shoot right-handed, position your layout blind slightly to the right of the landing hole. You can swing much farther to the left than you can to the right, so this will provide you with more shooting opportunities than if you were facing directly downwind. Position any left-handed shooters on the right end of the line, so they can intercept any geese that slide off on that side.

32. Use Leverage in Layout Blinds

If you have trouble sitting up to shoot out of a layout blind, dig a depression under your seat so you’re partially sitting up when you recline. Alternatively, you can scoop some dirt out from under your feet, which will allow you to dig into the ground with your heels to help you sit up.

33. Carry Lighter Loads for Cripples

If you hunt without a retriever, keep extra shells in your pocket while you’re goose hunting so you’ll have ammo on hand if you need to dispatch crippled geese. Steel 2s or 4s will do the job just fine at about 15 yards.

34. Be Clear on Shot Calling

Agree beforehand who will call the shot and what types of shots the group should take. Although one person should call the shot, there’s nothing wrong with talking it over as the birds approach and reaching a group decision about when to take ’em. Positioning the blinds fairly close together so the whole party can communicate helps everyone stay on the same page as well.

35. Focus on the Head

To ensure clean kills, try for a head shot when geese are decoying at close range. The distinctive black-and-white markings on a Canada goose’s head make it a highly visible target. It’s a good size as well, comparable to the body of a mourning dove. A close-range shot to the head will bag the bird cleanly without leaving a lot of pellets in the breast.

36. Don’t Pass Up Good Shots

When geese hang right over the blinds on a calm day and look down at you from 30 yards up, you might as well shoot. The birds’ vitals are exposed, offering a good killing shot if your gun is loaded with BBs or larger pellets. There’s a good chance those birds are going to see you, especially on windless, sunny days when there are shadows on the ground around the blinds. In my experience, geese rarely commit under such conditions so don’t hesitate to take a good shot if you have one.

37. Slow Down When You Shoot

One trick for successfully shooting geese, especially at longer ranges, is to move the gun more slowly than you think is necessary. Swing slowly through the bird from behind, and pull the trigger when you see some daylight between the barrel and the goose’s head. Most people swing too fast and try to shoot too far in front of geese. Slow down and watch them drop.

38. Be Sure of Your Pattern

The best all-around steel pellet for hunting large Canada geese is BBs, while BBBs and Ts are better at longer ranges. Whatever shot size and choke you choose, your pattern should deliver a minimum of 60 pellets in a 30-inch circle at the longest range you plan to shoot. Anything less lacks the pattern density to ensure multiple pellet strikes in a goose’s vital areas.

39. Get the Gunk Out

To keep semiautomatic shotguns running in the very cold conditions that make for great goose hunts, strip all the oil out of the action and moving parts with something like Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber Firearm Cleaner. It’s a messy, smelly process, so you’ll want to do the stripping outside. Spray the solvent into the action until it runs out clean, then lightly lube all the moving parts with Break-Free CLP. Be sure to give the magazine tube the same treatment.

40. Always Wear Earplugs

All waterfowlers should take precautions to protect their hearing. Goose hunters in particular are vulnerable to hearing loss from shooting magnum guns with heavy loads. I wear earplugs whenever I hunt. I can hear surprisingly well with them in, and I can still hear today because I wear them.

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Have you ever seen those unique-looking points extending from the red deer’s antlers? Those elegant and sharp curves are referred to as a brow tine.

But what exactly is a brow tine, and what purpose does it serve?

In this article, we will discuss all there is to know about the brow tine deer. Now, without further ado, let’s get started.

What is a Brow Tine on a Deer?

The brow tine is the first point where the antler branches off from the main beam. It is located near the base of the antlers, just above the deer’s eyes. The brow tine is an essential feature for hunters who are looking to identify and target a specific deer.

It serves as an indicator of a buck’s maturity and overall health.

Antlers are one of the most distinctive features of male deer, and they play a crucial role in many aspects of their lives, from mating rituals to self-defense. Antlers are made of bone, and they are shed and regrown every year.

Deer Antler Terminology – A Quick Overview

Deer antlers are a fascinating and complex feature of male deer. They play an important role in many aspects of the deer’s life, from mating to self-defense. Antlers are made of bone and are shed and regrown every year.

They grow in a branching pattern, with each branch having a specific name and location. Here’s a quick overview of some of the most common antler terminology:

What Age Do Deers Get Brow Tines?

Brow tines typically emerge when a male deer reaches maturity. Brow tines can also appear in some deers as early as four or five months old.

However, there is a considerable variation in the deer population. The difference in growth patterns can be due to genetic factors. But it can also be due to nutrition and environmental conditions.

Here’s a brief data interpretation on brow tines in deers.

Brow Tines in Mature Bucks:

Brow Tines in mature bucks are an interesting aspect of deer anatomy. Brow tines represent the maturity and age of the animal.

As bucks mature, their brow tines tend to grow larger. Hence, making it easy to differentiate from those of their younger counterparts.

Larger & Defined Brow Tines:

As a deer matures and thrives in its environment, its brow tines tend to become more distinct and sizeable.

Hunters can use this information to make informed decisions about which deer to target, based on factors such as the size and age of the animal.

Why Some Deer Grow Brow Tines and Others Don’t

Not all bucks will grow brow tines, and some bucks may have smaller or less defined tines. The size and shape of the tine can also vary between species of deer.

For example, mule deer tend to have more prominent brow tines than white-tailed deer.

Despite these variations, the brow tine remains a valuable feature for hunters and wildlife enthusiasts alike. It serves as a visual indicator of a deer’s age and health, and it adds to the overall beauty and majesty of these magnificent animals.

Scoring Deer: Do You Count the Brow Tines on a Deer?

Deer hunting is a popular activity for many hunters, and for some, scoring the deer they take down is an important part of the experience. Scoring a deer involves measuring and adding up the length of each tine on the deer’s antlers, along with the length and width of the main beam.

While there are several different methods for scoring deer, one question that often arises is whether or not to count the brow tines when tallying up the total score.

In general, the more tines a deer has, the higher its score will be. However, not all tines are created equal, and some may be longer or wider than others, which can also affect the overall score.

When scoring a deer, it’s important to follow the guidelines set forth by the organization or competition in which you are participating.

Conclusion:

The brow tine is an important feature of deer antlers, as it serves as a visual indicator of the animal’s age and health. It can vary between species, with mule deer generally having more prominent brow tines than white-tailed deer.

Understanding the different features of deer antlers can help us better appreciate these magnificent animals and gain a deeper appreciation for wild creatures in general.

Do all Bucks have brow tines?

No, not all bucks have brow tines. While most bucks do have brow tines on their antlers, there is a small percentage of bucks that are genetically programmed to not produce brow tines.

However, it’s important to note that this trait is not necessarily passed along to their offspring, as antler potential is also influenced by the genetic contribution of the does.

Do whitetail deer have brow tines?

Yes, whitetail deer do have brow tines on their antlers. In fact, a single brow tine, also known as an “eye guard,” is commonly present on each antler, although it is not always guaranteed.

In addition to the brow tine, a typical mature rack for a whitetail deer will have two to four other tines per antler, along with the beam tip, resulting in a total of 4 to 6 points on each side.

Will a deer without brow tines ever grow them?

It is unlikely that a deer without brow tines will ever grow them, particularly if it is genetically programmed to not produce them. In the case of whitetail bucks, research has shown that if a buck has spiked as his first set of antlers, he has a 90 percent chance of developing into a buck with missing brow tines later in life.

How do you measure brow tines on a deer?

To measure brow tines on a deer, start by identifying the G-1 tine, also known as the brow tine, on each antler. Measure the length of the brow tine from the front to the tip of the tine.

If the tine splits into multiple branches, measure the length of the dominant branch. The other end of the split is considered an abnormal point and should be counted as a separate point.

Regardless of the number of points on the antlers, it is important to take four circumference measurements per side.

Do brow tines count?

Whether brow tines count towards the total point score of a deer depends on the specific scoring system being used.

In some scoring systems, such as the Boone and Crockett Club scoring system for mule deer, the brow tine or eye guard is not counted when determining the total number of points on the antlers.

This is because traditionally, mule deer have been counted using one side only, and a typical mule deer has four points on one side with brow tines. However, in other scoring systems, such as for whitetail deer, all the points on the antlers are typically counted, including the brow tines.

What makes a drop tine on a deer?

A drop tine on a deer is a tine on the antlers that grows downward instead of upward or outward. In most cases, drop tines are caused by genetic coding, meaning they are a natural variation in the buck’s genes.

While prior injuries can cause a buck to grow weird antlers, true drop tines are mostly the result of a whitetail buck’s genetics.

However, it’s important to note that not all deer will necessarily develop a drop tine, even if they have the genetic potential to do so. Other factors, such as age, nutrition, and overall health, can also influence antler growth and the development of drop tines.

What are G tines on a buck?

G tines are a way of referring to the tines or points on a buck’s antlers. Specifically, the brow tines are commonly referred to as G1 tines, and the next tine on the antler is referred to as the G2, followed by the G3, and so on.

The length of the G2 and G3 tines on a whitetail deer are often the most significant in terms of scoring, although this can vary depending on the specific antler configuration. When scoring a buck’s antlers, each tine or point is measured and added to the total score.

Did you know that grizzly bears have some of the biggest paws in the animal kingdom?

Not only that, but they also have sharp claws, which they use frequently.

But how big are grizzly bear paws, and how sharp are their claws? And how can you identify a bear print?

In this article, we’ll discuss grizzly bear paws and claws, how you can identify them, their size and sharpness, and more.

Do Grizzly Bears Have Paws?

Grizzly bears use their paws for a variety of tasks, including digging, climbing, and catching prey.

They have five toes on each paw, each with its own claw.

The pads on the bottom of grizzly bear paws act as shock absorbers when they walk, helping them avoid injury when walking over rough terrain.

Through millions of years, grizzly bears have developed specialized paws. They’re wide to support their weight, and the front paws work as paddles when they swim.

Do Grizzly Bears Have Claws?

Grizzlies use their claws to dig for food, excavate burrows for rodents, or hibernacula for other animals. They also use their claws to climb trees, where they often feast on honey or insects.

Claws are also important weapons and tools for grizzlies. They sometimes use them to defend themselves against predators or to kill prey.

Grizzly Bear Paw Facts

Grizzly Bear Paw Size

As grizzlies are large animals[1], they also need large feet to support their weight.

You’d think that grizzly bears wouldn’t be very good runners, due to their large feet, but this is not the case. Grizzly bears can run up to 30 mph.

Related: How Fast Can a Bear Run?

How Strong Is a Grizzly Bear Paw Swipe?

Grizzly bears have some of the strongest paws in the animal kingdom. They use their powerful paws to dig for food, swipe at attackers, and to move objects.

When hunting, they typically use either their powerful bite or swipe. They’ve been known to kill smaller animals with just a single swipe of their paws.

Related: How Strong Are Bears?

How to Identify Grizzly Bear Paw Prints

Knowing how to identify grizzly bear paw prints is important for understanding the behavior of grizzlies and for safety reasons.

The size of grizzly bear paw prints can vary depending on the grizzly bear’s sex, age, and size[2]. Male grizzlies typically have larger paws than females. Cubs have much smaller paws than adults.

When identifying bear prints, know that grizzly bears’ prints are bigger than black bears. Their toes are also more aligned (horizontally).

Grizzly Bear Claw Facts

Grizzly Bear Claw Size

Claws are versatile tools, and something most carnivorous, land-bound animals have. Their claws can be used as a weapon against potential predators or prey, or they can be used as useful tools.

Grizzly bears typically use their paws for excavating dens, or for digging up roots. They’re also used for better grip while climbing.

Related: Can Grizzly Bears Climb Trees?

Besides using their claws as weapons, grizzly bears also use their claws to mark and rub trees. Even though it looks like the grizzly is just scratching an itch when doing so, research shows that it’s a mating habit.[3]

Grizzly Bear Claw Length

Grizzly bears are one of North America’s largest land predators. Their claws are not as big as polar bears, but they’re longer than those of black bears.

Their claws can reach up to four inches in length, and play an important role in grizzlies’ hunting and scavenging habits. Black bears’ claws are usually less than 2”.

How Sharp Are Grizzly Bears Claws?

Grizzly bear claws are very sharp. They are not just for show but play an integral part of the grizzly bear’s hunting and defensive arsenal.

Their claws are used to dig for food, climb trees, and catch prey. Their claws can also inflict serious injuries on people and other grizzly bears. They are sharp and curved, which allows grizzlies to easily tear into flesh.

Besides their claws, grizzly bears also have sharp teeth and a powerful bite, which they also use on prey.

Grizzly bears have a bite force of up to 1,100 PSI.

Related: Bear Bite Force

Grizzly Bear Paw vs. Polar Bear Paw Size

While polar bears have larger feet, their claws are smaller.

Grizzly bear claws are about 2-4 inches long, depending on the individual. Polar bear claws are smaller, about 3.75 inches, but they’re sharper.

There’s a good reason why polar bears have sharper claws: they’re used for better grip on ice.[4]

For most of their lives, polar bears roam around on the ice. If they don’t have a good grip, they would slip most of the time. In combination with this, the food-pads are laced with a slip-resistant substance.

Not only does it allow them to avoid slipping, but it allows them to run across the ice without any issues.

Polar bears are categorized as marine mammals. They spend a significant time in the water and need good paddles. The large paw size also helps them distribute their weight evenly when walking on ice.

Conclusion

Grizzly bear paws and claws are some of the most impressive features of the animal. They are large, strong, and sharp. Grizzly bears use their claws for a variety of activities, including digging, climbing trees, catching prey, and protecting themselves from danger.

Although grizzlies are not as common as black bears in North America, they should not be underestimated. Their size and strength make them one of the most powerful predators in the wilderness.

Deer hunting in Oklahoma is available from October 1st until the middle of January, and is regulated by the Oklahoma Department of Wildlife Conservation (ODWC). Different bag restrictions apply to hunting for antlerless deer in each of the state’s 10 antlerless deer zones. All you need to know about deer hunting seasons, permits, and laws in the Sooner State may be found in this page.

Oklahoma Deer Season

Hunting seasons, rules, and bag limits for deer are all established by the Oklahoma Department of Wildlife Conservation (ODWC). Different bag restrictions on antlerless deer are enforced in each of the state’s 10 antlerless deer zones. Both residents and non-residents need a hunting license, with choices including yearly and five-year permits. Depending on the method of hunting (archery, muzzleloader, or firearm), hunters must get the appropriate license. Certain permits are available for young hunters.

General Deer Season

MethodOklahoma Deer Seasons Start DateOklahoma Deer Seasons End DateBag Limits (Deer Archery)1-Oct-2315-Jan-24Six: Only two may be antlered. The hunter’s overall deer archery season quota of six deer is unaffected. (Youth Deer Gun)20-Oct-2322-Oct-23Two: One may be antlered. Antlerless mule deer cannot be harvested. The hunter’s combined season limit of six deer includes all juvenile deer gun season kills, but they do not count against the regular deer gun season limit of four. (Deer Muzzleloader)28-Oct-235-Nov-23Four: one may be antlered. Antlerless mule deer cannot be harvested. Zones limit antlerless animal harvests. Zone 1—No antlerless harvesting. Deer-free zones 2-8. 3-9 antlerless zones. One zone-10 antlerless. Antlerless Deer Zones. The hunter’s six-deer muzzleloader season restriction is unaffected. (Deer Gun)18-Nov-233-Dec-23Four: one may be antlered. Antlerless mule deer cannot be harvested. Zones limit antlerless animal harvests. One zone-1 antlerless deer. Deer-free zones 2-8. 3-9 antlerless zones. One zone-10 antlerless. Antlerless Deer Zones. The hunter’s six-deer season restriction is unaffected. (Holiday Antlerless Deer Gun)18-Dec-2331-Dec-23Two: Solely antlerless. Antlerless mule deer cannot be harvested. Hunters may shoot six deer every season, except holiday antlerless deer gun season deer.

Antlerless Deer Zones

Zone-1

Antlerless Days Zone 1Season Dates Archery SeasonOct 1, 2024 – Jan 15, 2024 Youth Deer Gun SeasonOct 20 – 22, 2024 Muzzleloader SeasonNo antlerless days Deer Gun SeasonNov 18 – Dec 3, 2024 Holiday Antlerless Deer Gun SeasonClosed

Zones 2, 7 & 8 (Oklahoma Antlerless Days)

Zones 2, 7 & 8 (Oklahoma Antlerless Days)Hunting Dates Archery SeasonOct 1, 2024 – Jan 15, 2024 Youth Deer Gun SeasonOct 20 – 22, 2024 Muzzleloader SeasonOct 28 – Nov 5, 2024 Deer Gun SeasonNov 18 – Dec 3, 2024 Holiday Antlerless Deer Gun SeasonDec 18 – 31, 2024

Zones 3, 4, 5, 6 & 9 (Antlerless Days)

Zones 3, 4, 5, 6 & 9 (Oklahoma Antlerless Days)Hunting Dates Archery SeasonOct 1, 2024 – Jan 15, 2024 Youth Deer Gun SeasonOct 20 – 22, 2024 Muzzleloader SeasonOct 28 – Nov 5, 2024 Deer Gun SeasonNov 18 – Dec 3, 2024 Holiday Antlerless Deer Gun SeasonDec 18 – 31, 2024

Zone-10 (Antlerless Days)

Zone 10 (Oklahoma Antlerless Days)Hunting Dates Archery SeasonOct 1, 2024 – Jan 15, 2024 Youth Deer Gun SeasonOct 20 – 22, 2024 Muzzleloader SeasonOct 28 – Nov 5, 2024 Deer Gun SeasonNov 18 – Dec 3, 2024 Holiday Antlerless Deer Gun SeasonDec 18 – 31, 2024

Bag Limit:

Deer hunters are only allowed to harvest a total of six deer throughout the season, with only two of those animals allowed to have antlers. The same holds true for other forms of hunting, such as young deer gun, muzzleloader, and gun seasons for deer. The last year total season restriction will be applied to any deer harvested between January 1 and January 15. Antlerless deer killed during the holiday antlerless deer gun season or during a controlled hunt do not count against the combined season quota.

Elk Hunting Seasons

Elk Consolidated Season Limit

SpeciesDateBag Limit ElkJan. 1 – Jan. 31, Two ElkArchery, youth elk gun, elk muzzleloader, elk gun, holiday antlerless elk gun seasonsTwo Controlled huntsNot Included Total Combined SeasonTwo

Open Zones Seasons

TypeHunting Dates Elk ArcheryOct 1, 2024 – Jan 15, 2024 Youth Elk GunOct 13, 2024 – Oct 15, 2024 Elk MuzzleloaderOct 28, 2024 – Nov 5, 2024 Elk GunNov 18, 2024 – Dec 3, 2024 Holiday Antlerless Elk GunDec 18, 2024 – Dec 31, 2024

Elk Open Zones Bag Limit

Zone NameBag Limit Panhandle ZoneTwo elk (1 antlerless) Special Northwest ZoneOne elk, regardless of sex Northwest ZoneOne elk, regardless of sex Northeast ZoneOne elk, regardless of sex Southeast ZoneOne elk, regardless of sex Southwest ZoneOne elk, regardless of sex

Special Southwest Zone

Elk Special Southwest Zone SeasonHunting Dates ArcheryOct 7-11, 2024 Dec 2-6, 2024 MuzzleloaderSeason closed GunOct 5-8, 2024 Dec 7-10, 2024 Youth Elk GunOct 13-15, 2024 Additional Antlerless Gun Season (antlerless only)Nov 18 – Dec 3, 2024 Jan 1-31, 2024

Note:

• Limit of two (2) elk per hunter per zone; one (1) must be antlerless.
• There is no harvest quota in this zone.

Regulations

• You must first get permission from the owner to hunt on private land.

• It is prohibited to have a deer that was taken by another individual without the proper tags.

• Hunting from a motorized land, air, or sea vehicle is prohibited, as is firing over a public road, highway, or railroad.

• Prime shooting time is between half an hour before sunrise and half an hour after dark.

• While it is prohibited to employ dogs for deer hunting, you may use a leashed dog to locate a fallen buck if you first notify a game warden.

• It is forbidden to bury a dead animal in a water source such as a well, spring, pond, or stream, or to leave the corpse of a dead animal within a quarter mile of an occupied structure or public road.

• Hunters must wear at least 400 square inches of hunter daylight bright orange, including a hat and clothing, to meet with requirements.
• The total season deer bag limit is six; however, only two may be antlerless (defined as having at least 3 inches of antler protruding above the hairline).

• Remember the following rules to prevent weapon accidents: Always assume a weapon is loaded, point the muzzle away from yourself and others, keep your finger off the trigger until you are ready to fire, and be aware of what is beyond your objective.

• Keep broadheads covered, choose your target deer, and ensure there are no other deer or people in the area.

• Hunters should understand how to correctly climb and secure tree stands, and they should always use a full-body safety harness and a safety line to avoid accidents from falls.

• Rather of lugging anything up the ladder, climb above it and stroll down into it. The hauling is done by hand.

• Dogs are not permitted to be used to hunt bears, deer, elk, antelope, or turkeys.

• The hunter has 24 hours after leaving the hunting area to report his or her capture to the Department, whether it be a deer, elk, antelope, bear, or turkey. Following the submission of a report, a body tag or online confirmation number will be supplied. This tag or confirmation number must accompany the corpse at all phases of processing and storage at a commercial facility.

• No person shall take, attempt to take, catch, capture, kill, or attempt to kill any deer, feral animal, or other wildlife, except fish and frogs or as provided by law, by means of a vehicle-mounted spotlight or other powerful light, by what is commonly referred to as “headlighting” (or “spotlighting”), or any light enhancement device used at night (night scope).

• Except for deer gun seasons, an owner or agricultural lessee or their authorized agent may use any legal means of take, day or night, to safeguard agricultural crops, animals, processed feed, seed, or other commodities utilized in the production of an agricultural commodity.

Reporting & Deer Tagging

A deer harvested in Oklahoma must have a field tag attached as soon as possible. The hunter’s name, customer ID number, date of harvest, and time must all be included on the tag. Once the deer have been tagged, they may be field dressed and relocated. Within 24 hours after capturing a deer, the hunter must register the animal via the Go Outdoors Oklahoma smartphone app, the online E-check system, or an authorized department personnel. Checking the deer results in the hunter receiving a carcass tag or an online confirmation number, both of which must stay with the deer until the corpse is processed or stored.

Chronic Wasting Disease (CWD)

Deer are among the animals most at risk for contracting Chronic Wasting Illness (CWD), a deadly wasting disease of the nervous system. Holes in the brains of infected deer have been discovered in many locations in the United States and Canada. However, in 2022, a case of CWD was discovered only 2.5 miles south of the Oklahoma-Texas line. The Oklahoma Department of Wildlife Conservation set up a Selective Surveillance area in the state’s southern region as a reaction. In this zone, only specific sections of killed deer and elk are permitted to leave the area, and the whole animals must be processed before leaving. Hunters are asked to volunteer their killed deer for testing, and the CDC advises against ingesting meat from animals that seem unwell or test positive for CWD. draft a few bullet points

Hours for Deer Hunting and Shooting.

An hour and a half before the scheduled dawn to an hour and a half after the scheduled dusk. Visit the website of the Oklahoma Department of Wildlife here.

Define antlered deer.

Any deer, male or female, with antlers that extend at least three inches above the hairline on either side.

FAQs related to Oklahoma Deer Season

Dates & Regulations Source: Wildlife Oklahoma

Frog Gigging 101: How to Gig a Frog

Frog gigging, also known as frog hunting, is a popular activity in parts of the United States, particularly the South and Midwest. Gigging frogs typically involves using a large spear, or gig, to impale frogs in bodies of water and then pulling them out of the water to be cooked and eaten. If you’re new to this pastime, or if you have always wanted to learn how to gig for frogs in the water yourself, then here’s everything you need to know about this fun summer activity!

What is Frog Gigging?

The techniques and equipment involved with frog gigging are relatively straightforward, but to successfully gig a frog, is not. The spear has a small barb with a small barb near it’s tip like a fishing hooks barb; when you gig a frog, it will stay on your spear without slipping off due to the barbs. The barbs of a frog gigging spear help keep your catch secure as you pull them out of underwater hiding spots or through thick vegetation. In general once you have some experience and have successfully learned to gig a frog it’s very easy to gather large amounts of frogs through gigging. Though typically you’ll want a partner to help you as it’s much harder to do solo (We’ll explain why below).

Step 1: Set up your Frog Gig

A frog gigging spear is a long-bladed spear tip traditionally used by hunters who wanted to catch frogs from the shore of a lake or river. A traditional frog gigging spear is thin, with three pronged spear points with small barbs on the end. You can purchase a ready to go spears to gig a frog, or even make one yourself from pretty basic materials. With that said, there are plenty of variations—some frog gigging spears have 3 prongs with barbs on all three ends, some have 2 or 4 prongs on them. Once you’ve got your frog gig grab a partner, and a couple headlamps. If you’d like more information on making your own frog gigging spear, click the link HERE or grab your own Frog Gigging Spear Card HERE

Step 2: Find Some Water to Gig a Frog in!

If you’re looking to gig a frog in the water, the first step is finding some water. Once you do you can confirm their presence by listening to the frogs as they croak; they often call near the water. (Croaking generally gets louder as their proximity to the water increases.) After locating a group of frogs, shine your light out over the water, you can see their eyes glow to confirm their presence. Once that’s done it’s time to go get your equipment together and go gig a frog!

Step 3: Blind the Frogs

You’re now equipped with the perfect frog gigging spear, a partner and an area to hunt. The only thing left to do is shine them, then gig a frog. It’s crucial that you blind the frogs while they are sitting on the bank or in their mud holes, or even in the water so your light needs to be as bright as you can get. You don’t want them to be able to escape, but if you shine it right into their eyes, they won’t be able to see your partner approach (from behind is best) just don’t get between them and the light or they will quickly hop away.

Step 4: How to Spear a Frog

Step up slowly behind the frog. This is a critical part of making sure you take your frog out cleanly and quickly. When ready, aim at the base frog’s head, directly behind his eyes, and thrust, congratulations, you’ve just learned how to gig a frog! Put your frogs into a dedicated frog gigging bag (like a burlap potato sack that’s been wet with cool water) and transfer them to an iced cooler as soon as you can to keep the meat as fresh as possible.

Step 5: Dinner Time!

now that you’ve got a few frogs, it’s time to eat! There’s a lot of resources online that include recipes for cooking frog legs, as well as other edible parts of frogs, so I won’t go into that for now since there’s plenty of information out there.

To purchase your own Gig click HERE

For more information on how to make a Frog Gig click HERE

Before Going Frog Gigging Check your Local Laws

before you go frog gigging check your local laws to determine any special requirements or limits you may have.

Types of Frogs: Only certain types of frogs can be hunted depending on the State. Some States allow more but, as a general rule, most states allow hunting:

American Bullfrogs

Green Frogs

Pig Frogs

Leopard Frogs

Your specific State Wildlife Department is the best place to get up-to-date information and resources for hunting, fishing, and land-use regulations

Kanawha Falls offers anglers a chance to catch different kinds of fish and plenty of them.

That’s according to Mark Scott, assistant chief fisheries biologist in Charleston, urges anglers to head for Kanawha Falls at Glen Ferris near Gauley Bridge.

“The New and the Gauley rivers come together to form the Kanawha River,” he says. “The falls serve as a barrier to the upstream movement of fish species. It’s a very productive section. Water quality is excellent.

“The fish come up and congregate at the base of the falls, where there’s a good food supply and excellent forage, including numerous minnows and crawfish and other aquatic insects.

“Some of the largest records and trophy fish come from this area.” The fisheries biologist adds proudly, “We recently measured a walleye that was 33-and-one-quarter inches long and weighed 16 pounds. The existing state record was caught at Kanawha Falls in 1976. We have a length record and a weight record was taken from there.”

In addition, Scott says, striped bass and hybrid striped bass records both came from the Kanawha Falls.

The falls area has produced some nice muskies in the 40-inch class. “We stock the area with fingerling musky too on an annual basis,” Scott says.

Here are some other popular area waters for fishing:

Tailwaters of the Bluestone Dam, including the area below the dam extending down to the State Route 3 bridge. “It’s a popular area for wading and using small Jon boats,” Scott explains.

“The water is shallow. Wading along the banks of the river is productive, and bank fishing is good. There’s access for small boats too.”

The tailwaters are popular for smallmouth, flathead catfish, channel catfish, panfish (rock bass and bluegills), and it also produces large carp, according to Scott.

The DNR fisheries biologist also recommends that anglers try a canoe float trip on the Greenbrier River from Caldwell near Lewisburg downstream to Ronceverte.

“It provides exciting fishing for smallmouth bass and rock bass,” Scott says.

Another spot that is teeming with fish is Hawks Nest Lake, a 250-acre impoundment on the New River.

“It produces excellent fishing for smallmouth bass, spotted bass, crappie, panfish, channel cats, flathead cats, and striped bass hybrids,” Scott says emphatically.

Popular artificial baits for Hawks Nest include various color jigs, crankbaits, and spinners, but all species seemingly are attracted hellgrammites, large creek chubs, minnows, lizards (salamanders), earthworms and nightcrawlers.

And if you are looking for thrilling trout-fishing adventures this fall, chances are you will not have to travel far to find them.

They are waiting for you in the cool limestone waters of southeastern West Virginia. In fact, some of the most famous trout waters in the Eastern U.S. are limestone streams. And they extend all the way from upstate New York to West Virginia.

Folks in the Mountain State can take a measure of pride in knowing that sinking spring creeks of the Greenbrier River Valley contain water quality, aquatic insects, and well-oxygenated chilly water like the larger limestone streams found in the Northeastern U.S.

These limestone streams run underground. When streams do suddenly appear, they provide a mystical experience for anglers—especially those who pursue their prey under catch-and-release, fly-fishing only regulations.

“If you’re in the area and plan to go fishing, you owe it to yourself to try one of these ghost streams,” said Scott. “They’re cool, limestone-enriched underground waterways that create ideal habitat for trout.”

Hatcher, meanwhile, has other ideas when it comes to fishing. He has caught more than one hundred trophy-size channel catfish on chicken livers during the past 15 years.

He has nailed forty smallmouth and largemouth bass citations during the past five years at Stephens Lake, Sandstone Falls and Summersville Lake.

The resolute angler caught twenty of the citation-size bass last season.

Hatcher’s philosophy of fishing is simple: “Stay at it. You cannot catch them if you are on the couch.”

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Top o’ the morning!

There’s a reason why many hunters cite spring turkey hunting as their favorite pursuit of all. It’s because one encounter with a raucous, king-of-the-woods gobbler as it’s coming into your calls will make your knees knock and your heart lurch.

But turkeys have eyesight sharp as cut glass and are more wary than whitetails, so stalking one is difficult to impossible. Indeed, to have success this spring, you’ve got to know how to call one in. While master turkey callers spend a lifetime perfecting the craft and have dozens of various calling skills available in their repertoire, here are a few basic calls with which all turkey hunters should begin.

Calling turkeys consists of two main elements: Knowing how to make a specific call, and then knowing when to make it. For now, let’s focus on three basic calls, each of which is demonstrated in the video embedded above.

Locator CallsLocator calls aren’t calls that mimic turkeys; rather they are imitative sounds of other animals that challenge a gobbler’s dominance and spur them into gobbling—such as owls, crows, woodpeckers, hawks and others. When an owl hoots at dawn, for example, an old boss gobbler can’t stand it, so he’ll often gobble back at the owl to let him know who’s boss. (Or at least this is what we think is going on in a turkey’s brain.) This stimulus/response mechanism in springtime gobblers is nearly automatic, meaning that no matter how many times an owl hoots (or a crow crows, or a woodpecker cries) the gobbler nearly always answers back. And when he answers, he gives away his position so an astute hunter can move in on him and formulate a plan of attack.

So, all turkey hunters should know how to make an owl call. I can make the sound by blowing air through my hands or just with my voice, but I prefer a store-bought owl call because I can use it while wearing gloves-and it’s much louder than my voice alone. I like the Big Hooter Owl Call made by Hunter’s Specialties/HS Strut, because it’s loud and easy to blow. (HS also makes an instructional DVD on turkey calling, and I highly recommend it).

The Call: Owl HootUsing a tremendous amount of air pressure by filling up your lungs, blow into the call with short, powerful bursts of air. After you purchase a call, click here to learn how owl calls sound, or better yet, spend time in the woods at dawn and dusk, and listen to the call of a barred owl. Then try to mimic the owl’s nine-syllable call that sounds like “Who-cooks—for-you; Who-cooks—for—you-all?

When to CallGobblers respond best to owl calls in the morning just before dawn, while they’re still roosted in trees. So if you’re not sure if a gobbler is nearby, sneak to the edge of the woods or other vantage and rip off a loud hoot. If there’s a gobbler within a couple hundred yards, he should answer. If he does, make note of exactly where the sound came from; you have just located a gobbler! If one doesn’t gobble, move a couple hundred yards to another location and try it again. You can use an owl hooter—often with success—anytime of the day to locate gobblers. So keep it handy and use it often.

Hen CallsFemale adult turkeys, or hens, make many types of calls including clucks, purrs, putts, cutts and others. But the staple call they use to attract a potential mate is called the yelp.

The Call: YelpA yelp is a series of short, high-pitched sounds that a hen uses to call to its clutch, other hens and to gobblers in an effort to find a mate. The sound can be made with a box call, a slate call, a mouth call (also called a diaphragm call) and others. But for beginners, I recommend the slate call (also called a pot call), like this one made by Zink Calls. Less expensive slate calls are readily available from Primos, Hunters Specialties, Knight & Hale and other callmakers.

The call consists of about 9 to 12 two-note yelps that, when made in a rhythmic series, sound somewhat like “yyyyeeee-elp, yyyeeee-eelp, yyeeee-eelp, yeeeelp, yeeeelp, yeelp, yelp, yelp, yelp, yelp.” Start by placing pressure on the striker upon an edge of the slate call, then drawing the stiker swiftly about an inch to the middle, then making a circle with the striker so the sound can be quickly and rhythmically repeated.

Because it’s virtually impossible to teach a new caller how to make sounds via written words, again, it’s best to watch one of the many online instructional videos on call makers’ websites or on YouTubeto actually hear the tone and cadence of a yelp. Or, you can sit in the woods and listen to actual hens and try to mimic them. However, the cadence and knowing when to call is more important than the exact tone, because all hens sound a little different; some are raspy and may have a shorter series of yelps while others are more high pitched.

When to YelpIn the springtime woods when the sun is up and birds have flown to the ground from their roosts, there is really no bad time to yelp. A yelp tells other turkeys, “hey, I’m over here”; and/or “why don’t you guys come over here?” It also says to a prospective gobbler, “Hey big boy, you sound cute. Are you looking for a date? Come on over here.”

So, a yelp can be used to entice a gobbler to gobble. Then, when a gobbler responds, a series of yelps is best used to attract the gobbler within shotgun range.

If a gobbler begins coming to you after you yelp, you should use the yelp call sparingly. Afterall, if a gobbler is coming to you, he’s doing what you want him to; calling more might make him change what he’s doing. Again, yelp sparingly, because sometimes an old gobbler can be attracted to a hen that plays a little hard to get.

Remember, if you’re calling to a gobbler and it chooses to be silent as it comes in, you may not know it’s coming. But rest-assured it is looking for the maker of the calls (you!), so it’s critical that you remain as still as possible. One movement—even a slight move of the head or a hand that swats a mosquito—will likely cause the gobbler to flee. And for this reason, when using a pot call, it’s best to keep the movement of your hand as it moves the striker concealed behind your knees or other objects such as foliage.

The Call: CluckWhen hens aren’t alone, lost or asking their family or a gobbler to “come over here,” they constantly make little clucks and purring sounds as they feed and when they’re content. If you’ve ever heard a flock of chickens feeding in a barnyard, you’ll notice that all of them make many clucks, purrs and putt sounds most all of the time. So do turkeys. Clucks convey to other turkeys that “all is good,” and “this grub is good, sister. All is well.”

While clucks sound subtle to us, gobblers hear them well and make them comfortable. If a gobbler thinks hens are around, it would sound weird to him—even alarming—if no natural clucks are coming from the hens. So hunters should learn a basic cluck that can be used to calm and attract gobblers.

To make a cluck, simply place pressure on the striker toward the middle of the pot call, then draw it firmly and swiftly about a half inch across the slate so it makes a very soft sounding “cluck” noise. Again, the best way to learn the cluck is to listen to audio of a cluck. A cluck is not so much to call in another bird, but rather a noise made by a turkey out of contentment, almost as a cat purrs. But because turkeys are gregarious animals, other turkeys can hear that content and be attracted to it. So you should know it.

When to CluckAnytime you’re set up in the woods and ready to see or hear a turkey is a good time to cluck. Mainly, however, clucks should be used randomly between series of yelps to let nearby turkeys know the following: 1. A hen or a group of hens are nearby; 2. They’re very comfortable, relaxed and probably feeding; and 3. they can come on over if they want.

Often some simple clucking—rather than loud raucous yelping—can soothe shy gobblers and convince them to come in even if perhaps they don’t feel like actually breeding at the moment. Unlike yelping, it’s difficult to cluck too much, provided you keep your clucking very soft and subtle.

Like any instrument that produces sound, turkey calling requires practice to make the sounds perfectly, every time, and while your adrenaline surges. Then you should know when to use them, and when to use restraint not to overcall. With time and experience, you can become a master that few gobblers can resist. But expect to send a few running the opposite direction in the process.