Hunt #1

I was halfway down the long ridge when a bugle erupted to my right. Far below, a 300-inch 6×6 was chasing cows in a timber-dotted draw. I craned my neck to locate the new bull in the dim predawn light. What I saw sent a shiver down my spine.

A wide, massive rack floated above a ridge 400 yards to the south — a rack I thought I would never see again. Days earlier, I had dogged that very bull from dawn till dusk as he pushed three-dozen cows and calves across deep canyons and near-vertical slopes. When the sun finally sank, the large Wyoming six-point was still beyond bow range, surrounded by his harem and posing on a rugged point of rock. He bugled, grunted, and plunged out of sight.

Hard hiking across miles of terrain had failed to show me that elk again. There would be no mistaking his wide-flung antlers with the broken left brow tine. After searching till my eyeballs ached, I figured he was gone for good.

Then, miles away from where I’d chased him, here he was again. A parade of cows and calves trotted across a knob and dipped out of sight. Ears and antlers followed, also sinking below the horizon.

I forgot the smaller bull below me, trotted into a deadfall-littered ravine, and hustled up the other side. I had barely reached the top when cow elk began filing across the main canyon 600 yards below. They joined the bunch with the other bull, creating a massive herd. I stopped counting at 60 elk.

Last in line was the heavy-antlered bull. As I watched through my 10X binoculars, he charged through the milling cows — screaming like a banshee and pacing back and forth. The smaller bull turned and fled. That 300-incher looked like a baby compared to the big guy.

A coulee angled steeply downhill toward the herd, and I ducked into it. Twenty minutes later, I crossed the main canyon and crept uphill through stunted evergreens. Elk were chirping and crunching in a meadow above the trees.

I slipped between two pines and peeked uphill. Cows and calves were feeding in an old burn, and several drifted within 15 yards. I eased an arrow from my hip quiver, nocked the shaft, and waited. The herd bull was nearby, hidden beyond the grassy folds. A stiff morning downdraft blew in my face.

Minutes passed before the bull bugled again just out of sight. I gripped my bow as cows trotted downhill toward me. Instantly, tall antlers rose above the slope.

The bull swaggered out and stopped barely 30 yards away. One cow nearly stepped on me as she scooted away from the rut-crazy male. I drew as the bull nosed another cow, planted my 30-yard pin behind his shoulder, and released.

The cow squirted ahead, the bull lunged forward…and the G5 Striker V2 broadhead smacked him dead-center with a “plop” no bowhunter wants to hear. Elk scattered in giant clouds of dust. The bull walked 100 yards, bedded, stood again, and trudged over a ridge. I backed away immediately. Gut-shot animals always die, but you should never push them.

The cool, sinking breeze had started swirling as the morning air heated up. I hoped the bull would not smell me and go on high alert. That hope was wrong.

Hunt #2

I’ve never lost a gut-shot animal. This happens to every bowhunter sooner or later, but unless spooked, a paunch-hit critter normally travels less than a half-mile. If you wait several hours before following, the result is usually good.

Midafternoon found me snooping along the likely path my bull had taken. Two spots of dark blood on a log and fresh tracks in the dust confirmed his path down a timber-choked draw. Another spot of body fluid 300 yards farther along proved the bull had continued downhill to the bottom of the ravine. I could not find another speck of blood, and the ground in the bottom was hard as a rock.

By dark, I’d scoured every slope and ravine within a half-mile. An old burn dominated the area, and it was mostly open enough to see a downed animal. Next morning, my friend Tommy Moore and I strapped on our hiking boots and continued the search. By midday, we were certain my bull had traveled farther than a half-mile. I suspected the wounded elk had smelled me on shifting air currents before I was able to leave. Juiced up on adrenaline, it was hard to say which direction he’d gone, or how far.

Deep canyons fanned out to the north, east, and south. Tommy and I canvassed the country within a mile, slowly hiking ravine bottoms and slopes in a grid pattern. It was too early for birds to find the carcass or death odor to set in. A tough situation. The sun set on that first full day of searching.

Tommy had to work the next day, but my wife, Greta, drove from home to help me. We searched from daylight till dark over the next four days, fanning outward across vast expanses of terrain within one to two miles. An animal can always crawl in a crack or stop in thick cover, where you might walk past and miss it only feet or yards away. But daytime temperatures were climbing into the 80s. Ravens, eagles, and magpies lived in the area, and such scavengers always descend on a carcass within a few days. After five days, the stench of decay should be detectable for several hundred yards.

The key was getting close to where the elk had dropped, and we certainly had not done that. Greta and I began calling my bull “Needle.” The haystack we were searching was incredibly big and rugged.

Day Six dawned warm and clear. Miraculously, Greta spied a dry, matchhead-sized drop of blood on a tree branch nearly one mile from where I had hit the elk. My wife’s eyes are incredible.

The bull had left the ravine and headed south. Two long, narrow, and fairly open canyons sliced the country even farther in that direction than we had looked — two to three miles away and a greater distance than I had ever seen a paunch-hit animal go.

Greta drove our pickup to the top of the first draw and dropped me off. Two hours later, I met her at the bottom. No birds, no coyotes, no smell. The place I’d hit the elk was 1¾ miles to the north.

Greta left me again at the head of the second canyon — 2¾ miles from impact.

“This is crazy,” I muttered, as I dropped into the narrow cut. I was beginning to believe we might never find Needle.

Halfway down the ravine, something white flashed to my right. A lone magpie sailed across a draw 100 yards above me and vanished beyond a ridge. The bird was alone, but it was the only one I’d seen that day. I decided to investigate.

As I crested the ridge, the bird flew from a tree and floated into another draw.

What the heck, I thought. Might as well follow.

I reached the top just as the bird dove into a clump of densely packed evergreens. As I eased ahead, four magpies erupted from the same spot. The Wyoming breeze fanned my face, carrying the faint smell of decaying carcass. I trotted down the hill as more birds scattered from the thicket. Seconds later, a fat antler tine appeared through the screen of limbs.

Not much later, Greta and I did a happy dance on the upwind side of the elk. Coyotes and birds have to eat, too, so nothing goes to waste in the woods. Selfishly, I was sad about all that ruined meat. But hairy and feathered scavengers had already polished off most of the bull’s rear end, and I knew not one scrap would be left when they were done.

I removed the head with knife and rubber gloves. A generous sprinkling of borax, salt, and baking soda on the de-fleshed skull cut the odor to nearly zero. I had gorgeous antlers to remind me of both hunts — the challenging sneak, and the taxing recovery. My 2021 Wyoming bull later scored a touch over 360 record-book points, in spite of two battle-broken tines on the left side. Intact, he would have scored over 370…one of my best-ever elk.

According to my GPS, Needle traveled just over 2¼ miles before he dropped. Our smartphones confirmed that Greta had walked over 30 miles looking for that bull, and I had walked over 50 miles. If you search hard and long enough for a mortally hit animal, you will almost certainly find it eventually. The double-hunt process might not always be fun, but the conclusion will be thrilling for a number of reasons!

Following Up a Center Hit

An animal hit solidly in the paunch with a sharp broadhead requires patience. It will always expire, but you must wait at least six to eight hours before beginning the search…preferably more if daylight allows. If it is pushed or smells you, it might travel much farther than the normal 400 to 800 yards.

After waiting, you should look for blood, body fluid, and tracks. Try to predict the most likely travel routes, and remember that gut-shot animals sometimes move uphill. Proceed slowly with eyes peeled, in case you need to take a finishing shot.

Beyond 24 hours, you should grid-search terrain, preferably with the help of friends. It is your responsibility to recover the animal, even if you lose the meat. Keep looking — it’s the ethical thing to do — and the critter will almost certainly be yours.

Poaching in Michigan is a serious offense in Michigan with serious penalties if convicted.

Did you know Michigan has elk? Most people think of these animals as belonging in the Western states or Canada. However, Michigan is home to a population of these beautiful, wild creatures. Michigan is also home to many avid hunters.

Unlike deer, who run rampant throughout the state and suffer from overpopulation, elk are more protected by the law. You could get in big trouble for hunting them without a special license.

Elk hunting licenses are only available by drawing, and there are a limited number available each year. If you don’t get a special permit, that’s it. You will have to try again next year.

Illegal hunting is called poaching, and poaching could cost you your ability to hunt in this state – potentially for the rest of your life.

Elk Poaching in Michigan

Two Michigan men were charged for poaching a cow elk in Wolverine, Michigan in 1998. It was through the DNR poaching hotline that DNR officers investigated Jakob Gagnon and Logan Turbin.

An anonymous tip about the pair led to a search warrant, which led to investigators finding elk meat and cocaine in Gagnon’s residence.

Turbin was charged with assisting Gagnon in processing the elk and illegal possession of elk meat.

Gagnon initially fled the state after authorities searched his home, but turned himself in to law enforcement. He was arraigned August 28, 2020 for taking an elk without a license, possession of stolen property, and cocaine possession.

Penalties for Poaching in Michigan

While Gagnon’s poaching crime was a misdemeanor, his actions attracted law enforcement who went on to find evidence to charge him with a felony crime.

That’s just one way in which breaking hunting laws can backfire on you.

New Deer Hunting Regulations in Michigan

It’s also good to be aware of some of the new bag limits on deer hunting as we get closer to deer hunting season. A mistake or a crime of opportunity could result in a massive fine.

In 2014, Public Act 175 of 2013 went into effect, making it more expensive to break the hunting laws. Rather than a flat $1,000 restitution fee, the fine increases with the number of points on the deer’s antlers, to discourage hunters from taking more trophy bucks than they are legally allowed to bag.

According to Natural Resources and Environmental Protection Act (Excerpt) Act of 1994:

A Michigan hunter was fined $15,000 for bagging an 18-point buck in 2015. It was his third of the season. Apparently, it was a “crime of opportunity.” He had the right to hunt, and the buck just walked in front of him.

Michigan Poaching Defense Attorney

Poaching may not be one of the top crimes leading to jail time or felonies on your record. However, if it doesn’t lead to those things, it can undoubtedly bleed your wallet dry.

For a hunter, losing your license potentially for 15 years isn’t worth the bagging that one animal. Don’t assume no one will tip-off investigators either.

If you’re facing jail time or hefty fines related to poaching in Michigan, call my office and get us working for you.

Call now

How to make a trotline. Trotlines are one of the old time-tested methods when you want to catch a lot of catfish in a hurry. When you need to make a “meat haul” or just want to fish around the clock while spending your vacation time doing other things, set out a trotline or two and you will always come home with fish! Here are some simple instructions on how to rig up and set out a trotline.

A lot of folks ask me how to make a trotline. I have tried various methods and styles but I always come back to the simplest version and it just plain works. A trotline is nothing more than a long piece of heavy main line that has short lines or drops tied to it at regular spacing intervals. These drops have one hook each. State rules vary, but in my state (Texas) you can have a maximum of 25 hooks per trotline. Other methods to catch catfish include jug fishing which is very similar to trotlines, but more mobile so to speak. You can read about how to jug fish here.

How you set out the trotline in the water depends on where you are fishing. In a creek or small river you simply tie each end of the mainline to each bank via a stake or a tree limb. The line spans the creek or river and is submerged with small weights along the length to take it underwater. In open water such as a lake you have to tie empty jugs to each end and then anchor each end with heavy weights. then you have the smaller weights in the middle to take the mainline under the surface. The floating jugs help keep the mainline accessible when you get ready to run the line for fish. Trotlines can be dangerous if you are careless. They can drag you out of the boat and underwater in a heartbeat. I recommend always fishing with a partner when fishing trotlines.

To make the trotline I use just a few simple supplies. For the mainline I like to use a heavy 700 lb. test, tarred, braided or twisted nylon line. The heavier the better in my opinion. This line is relatively cheap and strong as well. Texas regulations state that the drop hooks must be a minimum of 3 feet apart. So a 25 hook mainline will need to be at least 100 feet long. I usually just use a standard 120 ft. long mainline to account for tying each end and also to account for the spacing knots to be discussed later.

For convenience I like to remove my drop hooks from the mainline for storage. That way I can ball up the mainline and not have to fight sharp hooks for safety. To keep your drops evenly spaced along the mainline I simply tie two knots about an inch apart at three foot intervals. This is simple and does not require clips and other extra parts.

The drops are simply constructed of a piece of 100 lb. test tarred twisted nylon line cut in 3 ft. lengths and the ends tied together to form a loop. I always cut lines with a good pair of sharp scissors and the burn the ends with a flame to prevent unraveling. I then loop a snap swivel on one end and a trotline clip on the other

.

The hook is a matter of personal choice depending on your bait, but big is always better in my opinion. The trotline clips make it easy and safe to assemble or disassemble the trotline while out on the water. I use them all the time and have never had one come apart yet.

I like to store my trotlines in a 5 gallon bucket. I store the mainline balled up in the bottom of the bucket along with the weights and then hang 25 drops and hooks around the top edge. Everything stays untangled and easy to use in a boat. I always store just one complete trotline in a bucket so I know that I have everything in one place per bucket.

To set out the line just use my diagrams below and bait her up and then sit back and relax. I usually run my lines every 4 or 5 hours apart. I also bait the lines just a dusk and go back at dawn to load my boat up (usually) with a good haul of cats.

You now know how to make a trotline. One thing I would strongly suggest is stopping by our fishing discussion board at TexasRiverData.com and ask any questions you may have and get more trotline instructions and tips. You can read and discuss the latest information there.

Try this method for yourself and stay safe and watch those hooks!

If you’re thinking about live trapping a raccoon, choosing the right raccoon bait is important.

For starters, trapping a raccoon in a live trap is not very difficult, and it’s one of the best ways to get rid of a raccoon that’s getting into your garbage or pet food.

Raccoons are curious animals that will venture into a trap without much hesitation.

However, the real problem arrises when you want to catch just a raccoon and not a lot of other non targeted animals like your neighbors cat, opossums or worse, a skunk.

Raccoons are not picky eaters.

Cat food, sardines, canned dog food and various table scraps will all work to lure just about any raccoon into a trap.

The problem is other animals like them too!

So, to trap a raccoon and only a raccoon, it’s important to choose a bait that’s not as appealing to other animals.

This doesn’t guarantee you won’t catch an opossum since you never know what a wild animal will do, but choosing the correct bait will make a big difference.

Choosing A Raccoon Bait

When live trapping a raccoon, trap placement and setup is important, but it’s the bait that actually lures the animal into the trap.

I’ve trapped a lot of raccoons in a live trap over the years and I’ve found a couple of baits that work really well for raccoons, but limit the amount of non targeted animals caught in the trap.

Here are some of the best raccoon bait choices for a live trap:

Marshmallows

Raccoons love marshmallows and they’re one of the best baits you can use in a live trap because they don’t attract a lot of unwanted species.

You can use large or small marshmallows, but I like to use the large ones because it’s harder for the raccoon to pull them through the side of the trap.

Clean Tin Foil

Hang a crumbled piece of clean tin foil in the back of the trap behind the trigger pan.

Suspend the piece of tin foil by tying it with a string to the top of the trap.

Since raccoons are curious animals, the shinny dangling tin foil alone is enough to lure them into the trap.

By using clean tin foil it eliminates the rotten smell that could attract unwanted animals.

I know, it sounds unbelievable but it actually works!

The tin foil attractant is the best way to trap a raccoon if you don’t want to catch your neighbors cat or any other unwanted animal.

A Single Whole Egg

A whole, un-cracked fresh egg is also a good bait for a raccoon but decreases the chances of catching an unwanted animal.

Place the egg in the back of the trap behind the trigger pan and you’re done.

Since raccoons commonly raid nests and steal eggs from animals in the wild, a whole chicken egg is a great raccoon bait to use.

Overall

There’s a lot of different baits you can use to trap a raccoon.

So, if you want to trap a raccoon and drastically reduce the chance of catching anything else, try using one of the baits we described above.

There’s always a chance of catching a different animal especially if they’re really hungry, but that’s the great thing about using a live trap instead of a snare or foothold trap to catch a raccoon.

The non-targeted animal won’t be injured if it gets caught inside the trap, and you can easily release them unharmed back into the wild.

There is a clear winner when we compare the 260 Remington vs 6.5 Creedmoor, but it’s not for the reasons you might think.

Both rounds have similar ballistics and fulfill a similar purpose, but there’s an important reason why the 6.5 Creedmoor is the caliber, so many hunters and shooters choose.

260 Remington vs 6.5 Creedmoor

Few other calibers are as close to comparing apples to apples as these two because the cartridges have minute differences in size and shoot the same diameter bullet.

Cartridge Specs

The bullet diameter for both rounds is .264″, and the rim diameter of the cartridge is the same at .473″.

The difference lies in the case. The 260 Rem has a case length of 2.035″. The 6.5 Creedmoor is slightly shorter at 1.92″.

One might conclude that the 260 has a longer maximum overall length; however, that’s not the case.

The 6.5 Creedmoor has an overall length of 2.825″, and the 260 Reming has an overall length of 2.80″.

The 260 Remington has a 20-degree shoulder angle, and the 6.5 Creedmoor has a 30-degree shoulder angle.

The 260 Remington has a max pressure (SAAMI) of 60,00 psi that stems from a powder capacity of 53.5 gr H2O.

The 6.5 Creedmoor has a higher max pressure of 62,000 psi with a case capacity of 52.5 gr H20.

6.5 Creedmoor vs 260 Remington: Recoil

Unless you’re a young buck trying to prove yourself to the world, you would agree less recoil is better.

It’s much easier to be accurate with a lower recoil round.

Many factors go into calculating recoil, such as the gun weight, shooter, bullet size, and amount of powder in the case.

For the sake of the comparison, we’re going to assume all things are as equal as possible.

When we do this, we see that these rounds have similar amounts of recoil.

The 260 Rem has 15.65 ft-lbs of felt recoil, and the 6.5 Creedmoor has 15.03 ft-lbs of recoil.

The difference is so minimal the average person won’t be able to tell the difference.

Technically, the 6.5 Creedmoor has less recoil, so it wins this section.

Trajectory

Due to gravity, the path it takes when we fire a bullet is an arch. Otherwise known as the bullet trajectory.

It’s much easier to be accurate with a flat shooting bullet, especially at long ranges.

This is why the 6.5 Creedmoor is a favorite amongst long-range shooters.

A 120gr bullet zeroed in at 200 yards has a bullet drop of 7.5″ at 300yds and 44.4″ of drop at 500yds.

A 140gr 6.5 Creedmoor bullet has 9″ of drop at 300 yards and 53.7″ of bullet drop at 500yds when zeroed in at 200 yards.

It might surprise you that the 260 Remington has a flatter trajectory.

A 120gr 260 Rem bullet, zeroed in at 200 yards, only drops 7.2″ at 300 yards and 42.8″ at 500yds.

A 140-grain bullet drops 8.2″ at 300yds and 48.7″ at 500 yards when zeroed in at 200 yards.

The winner is the 260 Remington.

260 Rem vs 6.5 Creedmoor: Accuracy

Accuracy is another section that many factors play a role in determining.

The rifle, recoil, shooter, trajectory, barrel length, and factory loads vs hand loads all play a part in determining the accuracy of a round.

We will do the same as we did with the recoil category, considering all things as equal as possible.

Since the 6.5 narrowly won the recoil section and the 260 Rem won the trajectory category, we can consider them canceled out.

Both rounds are very accurate at longer ranges, so this section is a tie.

Ballistic Coefficient

The ballistic coefficient (BC) represents how well a bullet resists air.

It’s a measure of bullet aerodynamics. High B.C. bullets are preferred because they will better resist the wind.

Calculating BC is rather complicated and irrelevant for this article; however, heavier, longer projectiles typically have a higher ballistic coefficient than lighter, shorter bullets.

If you’re like me, you would assume the bullets for each caliber have the same ballistic coefficient; however, that’s incorrect.

The 6.5 Creedmoor is better suited for shooting high BC match grade bullets because of its longer neck and shorter case length.

The 6.5 Creedmoor 140gr ELD Match grade bullets have a .646 BC, the 143gr ELD-X have a .625 BC, and the 147gr ELD Match bullet has a BC of .697 BC.

The 260 Remington doesn’t have as many options, which we will discuss later. The 130gr ELD Match bullet has a .506 ballistic coefficient.

The winner for this category is the 6.5 Creedmoor.

260 vs 6.5 Creedmoor: Stopping Power

Many argue stopping power is a relative term that doesn’t matter if you have a well-placed shot.

I agree it matters less for well-placed shots.

However, no matter how prepared we are as shooters, not every pull of the trigger is a well-placed shot.

That’s why stopping power still matters.

Stopping power can be measured in several ways, such as the size of the hole the bullet leaves and how deep it penetrates the target.

Sectional Density (SD) measures how well a bullet penetrates a target.

This is important when big game hunting because you need a bullet to punch through tough hide, bone, and sinew.

Sectional density is calculated by comparing the bullet weight and the bullet diameter.

The higher the number, the better it will penetrate the target.

Since both calibers shoot the same diameter bullet in varying weights, the sectional densities will be identical.

A 120gr .264″ diameter bullet has an SD of .246. The 140-grain .264″ diameter bullet has a sectional density of .287.

A 160gr .264″ diameter bullet has a sectional density of .328. A 156gr .264″ diameter bullet has an SD of .320.

However, other factors exist in terms of SD outside the shape of the bullet: velocity and bullet design.

Two bullets weighing the same but traveling at different velocities have differing stopping power or penetration amounts.

The higher velocity bullet will penetrate deeper.

The 260 Remington typically has a higher muzzle velocity of 2,941fps for a 120gr bullet and 2,793fps for a 140-grain bullet.

The 6.5 Creedmoor has a muzzle velocity of 2,892 feet per second for a 120-grain bullet and 2,678fps for a 140gr bullet.

Bullet design also plays a role. Non-expanding bullets penetrate deeper but won’t leave as large of a wound channel.

While expanding bullets cause a large wound channel but don’t penetrate as deep.

This section is a tie because the 260 Remington has a slightly higher muzzle velocity, and the 6.5 Creedmoor has more options for different bullet types.

Hunting

Both calibers offer many hunters an excellent option for whitetail deer hunting, mule deer, pronghorn, coyotes, and varmint hunting to 500 yards.

They can also take elk and bear out to 300 yards; however, I strongly recommend using a larger caliber for elk hunting and moose hunting.

These calibers don’t pack enough punch to harvest big game ethically at longer distances.

The .308 Winchester would be my hunting cartridge choice above the 260 Rem and the 6.5 Creedmoor when big game hunting.

With these rounds being so similar, neither has a distinct advantage in hunting, so this category is a tie.

.260 Remington vs 6.5 Creedmoor Home Defense

I don’t recommend using a rifle for home defense because they’re known for overpenetration.

Rifle rounds tend to go through multiple walls, which could unintentionally endanger your family and neighbors.

Instead of putting your family and friends at risk, I recommend using a 12-gauge or 20-gauge shotgun or a 45 ACP or 40 S&W.

Now, if it’s the apocalypse and you’ve got a zombie horde approaching, by all means, bust out the 6.5 Creedmoor or 260 Remington and protect your home.

However, for close-quarter combat, they’re not going to be my first choice despite both calibers being available in the AR-10 platform.

This section is a tie because the 6.5 Creedmoor and 260 Remington were designed for long-range shooting, not close quarters.

Ammo Cost & Availability

This is one area where the 6.5 Creedmoor begins to stand out.

Not so much in price because a cheap 6.5 Creedmoor round will cost anywhere from $1.75-$2.75 per round, depending on the brand and whether or not it’s FMJ or ELD ammunition.

Many brands manufacture 6.5 Creedmoor, such as Hornady, Sellier & Bellot, Winchester, Browning, and Aguila.

Since so many brands make ammo in this caliber, it’s relatively easy to find, considering the times.

The .260 Rem is different. Not as many companies manufacture ammo in this caliber, so it’s much more difficult to find.

However, once you find it, it’s similarly priced to 6.5 Creedmoor.

If you’re looking to save money, I suggest buying bulk 6.5 Creedmoor ammo because most companies offer steeper discounts when you buy in bulk.

The 6.5 Creedmoor wins because of the availability of the factory ammunition at a similar price.

Rifle Cost & Availability

The cost for rifles chambered in both calibers will be about the same.

For instance, a Savage Arms 110 Engage Hunter XP Rifle chambered in .260 Remington will cost about $540, and the same hunting rifles chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor will cost about $580.

However, most bolt-action rifles chambered in 260 Rem are out of stock. So though the prices are similar, very few guns are available compared to rifles chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor.

You can get around this by getting a custom gun made, but that comes at a custom price, which is always much higher than a factory rifle.

For example, a Tikka 260 Remington Ss starts at $1,150, which is on the cheap end, whereas a Ruger M77 Hawkeye starts at around $830.

The winner is the 6.5 Creedmoor because of the abundance of rifles available.

Reloading

Reloading is another way to save money on ammo. It also gives you more control over the final product than factory ammo.

You can control all the controllable variables and craft the perfect round for your rifle.

Most serious shooters love handloading because of the increased control of the entire process.

Both calibers are capable of being reloaded. There are plenty of information and supplies available to successfully handload either round.

This category is a draw.

260 Remington vs 6.5 Creedmoor Ballistics

If you’re a ballistics nut, then you’ll love this section. I will say there is very little difference in the ballistics of each caliber.

260 Remington Ballistics

As I mentioned earlier, the muzzle velocity of the .260 Remington varies from 2,941 fps with a 120-grain bullet to 2,793 with a 140-grain bullet.

As far as muzzle energy goes, the 260 Remington has 2,305 ft-lbs to 2,425 ft-lbs depending on the weight of the bullet.

As the distance from the muzzle increases, the difference in energy decreases. At 500 yards, a 120gr bullet has 975 ft-lbs of energy, and a 140gr bullet has 979 ft-lbs of energy.

6.5 Creedmoor Ballistics

Note: This information comes from the manufacturer and is for informational purposes only. The actual ballistics obtained with your firearm can vary considerably from the advertised ballistics. Also, ballistics can vary from lot to lot with the same brand and type load.

260 Remington Development

The 260 Remington was a wildcat cartridge until Remington standardized it in 1997, but they weren’t the first to try to standardize it.

A-Square LLC first submitted the proposal and drawings to SAAMI, but in the end, the cartridge was named after Remington.

It was created by necking down a .308 Winchester cartridge.

This round is most popular in the tactical and competitive shooter realms but is an effective hunting cartridge in a short-action rifle.

This round has been unsuccessful commercially in the US, but that’s not the case in Europe due to the popularity of 6.5mm bullets.

6.5 Creedmoor Development

Hornady debuted the 6.5 Creedmoor in 2007 as a “do anything” cartridge. Competition shooters were the first to jump on board and had immediate success using the caliber.

Big game hunters were more skeptical because the round lacks the weight often needed to bring down big game ethically. Though it has proved capable of bringing down some of the biggest game in the world, many hunters have other preferences.

The 6.5x55mm Swedish is the cartridge that Dennis DeMille based the 6.5 Creedmoor on.

Parting Shots

By now, you see that there is little difference between the 260 Remington vs 6.5 Creedmoor, yet the 6.5 Creedmoor is much more popular because of the greater availability of the rifles and ammo.

The .260 Remington won 1/10 categories. At the same time, the Creedmoor won 4/10 categories.

That means they tied in 5/10 sections due to their similarities.

The average shooter won’t notice the minute differences but should go with a 6.5 Creedmoor because of its availability.

A cousin of mad cow disease that eats holes in the brains of deer could be the tipping point that pushes Kansas to join other states that bar people from baiting the animals with piles of food.

Wildlife commissioners hope restricting the popular practice could slow the spread of chronic wasting disease and curb other deer-related problems, such as crop damage.

In northwest Kansas, biologists estimate at least one-third of 2.5-year-old bucks now have the fatal disease.

But opponents of a feed ban — so far, primarily people with financial interests — are raising heated complaints. That includes feed sellers, rural land brokers and hunting lodge owners.

Some Kansas lodges charge out-of-state hunters upward of $4,000 each for weeklong stays on properties where deer baiting and feeding ensures strong numbers of the country’s most popular game animal.

Lodge owners argue a ban would hurt their businesses and rural communities.

“When an outfitter or a landowner gets a thousand dollars in his pocket from outside, he don’t put it in his pocket,” Kenny Graham, who runs the 23,000-acre CK Outfitters lodge about an hour south of Topeka in Osage City, told commissioners at their June meeting. “He spends it with (a grain) elevator. He spends it to buy gas. He spends it to live on.”

Whitetail Properties Real Estate, which specializes in hunting land, is battling the potential restrictions. So is Hunter Nation, a politically conservative group that includes Kansas Attorney General Kris Kobach on the board of directors.

Whitetail Properties salesperson Todd Bigbee said rules would cause land values to drop, leading to “massive” losses.

“Especially to rural Kansas landowners who sell recreational land and lease hunting rights to others,” he said in an email to the Kansas News Service.

Biologists and veterinarians, though, have won over an increasing number of states to ban the practice of laying out corn, apples, peanuts and other food for deer.

They warn that these unnatural buffets gather deer in close proximity and spread sickness.

The National Deer Association, which promotes hunting and healthy deer populations, shares that concern. It has nothing against baiting and feeding under normal circumstances, but it supports a ban in areas with chronic wasting disease.

“There’s no doubt from the science side that baiting increases disease spread,” said wildlife biologist Kip Adams, the group’s head of conservation. “That’s very, very clear … The vast majority of wildlife professionals agree.”

Feed sellers and others who want to continue baiting in areas with disease aren’t convinced that shutting down feeding makes sense. They note that chronic wasting disease persists in states without legal baiting.

Surveys of Kansas hunters and landowners

Crowding around feed undermines a key evolutionary trait — a kind of deer version of social distancing.

“Maternal family groups actually do a pretty good job of spatially segregating,” North Dakota wildlife veterinarian Charlie Bahnson told Kansas wildlife commissioners at the June meeting. “That tends to all break down when you put artificial feed on the landscape.”

A sick deer standing over a bait pile covers it in pee, poop and saliva. Other deer chowing down at the same spot pick up germs.

They could catch bovine tuberculosis, for example. Or they could swallow the prions that cause the always-fatal chronic wasting disease.

Kansas wildlife officials are revving up a public education campaign. Hunter Nation has launched a counter-campaign.

A ban would make hunting harder for many people, said Kansas lawyer Keith Mark, the group’s founder and president.

If young people can’t get close enough to animals to hit their targets, hunting won’t hold enough appeal to coax kids away from computer games and other entertainment, he said. The U.S. needs to replenish the ranks of its aging hunters.

“Being able to attract deer to a close proximity is certainly better for young hunters — really all hunters,” to kill as many deer as permitted, he said. “Isn’t that what we’re trying to do here?”

“I don’t buy that,” Adams said. “There’s a lot of places (where) kids and new hunters are shooting deer with rifles, shotguns and bows — where they cannot use bait.”

Adams wrote this month that the number of states that allow baiting has fallen from 26 to 22 in the past five years. He expects the number will keep falling as chronic wasting disease spreads.

In Kansas, wildlife biologists estimate based on carcass samples that somewhere between 33% and 48% of 2.5-year-old bucks in northwest Kansas counties now have the disease, which first cropped up in Kansas two decades ago.

They peg the rates at 10-16% in north-central Kansas, 9%-21% in southwestern Kansas, 1%-4% in south-central Kansas and about 1% for eastern Kansas.

Skeptics reject those estimates and want more testing.

Tim Neuman, a wildlife biologist employed by feed and supplement manufacturer Ani-logics Outdoors, argues that banning the use of these products would be “counterproductive” because some landowners would ignore that and carry on. Then more animals would end up congregating at those spots.

“It makes it worse because it concentrates deer even more,” he said, so “there’s only half as much (feed), but there’s still the same amount of deer.”

He urged Kansas to hold off and see if researchers can find preventive treatments.

“We are still in the infancy with the knowledge of chronic wasting disease,” he said.

Many Kansans enjoy increasing their chances of shooting a deer or watching and photographing the creatures by putting out food.

The Kansas Bowhunters Association will remain neutral on potential regulations, because its membership is torn, president Bob McCartney said. The group’s executive council has decided to support whatever decision the state wildlife agency reaches.

In 2020, the Kansas Department of Wildlife and Parks surveyed hunters and found 54% of respondents would oppose a total ban on bait and mineral supplements that attract game.

Last year, the department commissioned a survey of landowners that found 45% either feed deer on their land or allow someone else to do it.

Still, the state’s wildlife commissioners feel compelled by science to push toward regulation.

“I think the commission would all vote to ban baiting today,” commissioner Troy Sporer said in June. He asked department staff to make clear to the public that the state’s wildlife commissioners want “to ban baiting, in time.”

“They need to know (that) is our intention,” he said.

The seven-person commission guides the department’s actions. Its members are appointed to staggered four-year terms by the governor.

Staff will schedule town hall meetings in coming months. They’re also hoping to convince the public that it’s better to support deer by creating healthy habitats.

Deer benefit when landowners remove invasive trees and restore prairie, for example. The animals forage and hide in the grasses, which help fawns avoid hypothermia.

Landowners can also plant fields of buckwheat, cowpeas and other deer favorites. States consider this less hazardous than laying out food because deer keep their mouths farther away from bodily fluids on the ground and don’t crowd around a pile.

What do other states do?

It’s not clear whether Kansas wildlife commissioners will ultimately vote on a statewide, yearlong ban on baiting and feeding game or some kind of partial limitations.

A dozen Midwest states have various kinds of restrictions on the practices.

Baiting and feeding are terms used differently by various agencies and groups. Some distinguish between the two based on the goals or quality of the food. However, both words refer to setting out food in piles or with a dispenser.

Illinois opted for a statewide ban. In Nebraska, hunters can put out food but can’t shoot deer within 200 yards of it.

North Dakota bans baiting and feeding in areas with confirmed chronic wasting disease.

Bahnson, the North Dakota veterinarian, said officials take flak when they act.

“It generates a lot of pretty strong emotional responses,” he said. “Frankly, it’s not very fun to deal with from an agency standpoint.”

North Dakota lawmakers tried this year to strip the state’s wildlife officials of their ability to limit baiting, but they ultimately failed.

Bahnson said North Dakota hunters generally didn’t bait deer until a few decades ago. It became common at lodges, he said, and popular with bowhunters.

The story of chronic wasting disease

Wild elk started testing positive for chronic wasting disease in the 1980s in Colorado. Today, the disease has reached 30 more states and parts of Canada.

The prion — a kind of deformed protein — infects deer, elk and similar animals, slowly destroying their brains.

No people have gotten sick, but health authorities worry. Human exposure to mad cow disease has killed more than 200 people worldwide since its discovery in the 1990s.

The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention urges hunters to don impermeable gloves before cutting carcasses. Hunters should extract a sample for a chronic wasting disease test and shouldn’t eat the meat if it tests positive.

Kansas officials found a first case in 2001 in a captive elk southwest of Wichita. Wild animals started testing positive elsewhere in the state starting in 2005.

Since then, the Kansas State Veterinary Diagnostic Lab has confirmed cases in most counties. Western Kansas is a particular hotspot.

But hunting fuels a corner of the economy that often clashes with regulation.

In the book Deerland, writer and hunter Al Cambronne documents the political backlash in Wisconsin from feed mills in the early 2000s.

They won over state lawmakers to undo baiting restrictions that the state had imposed to slow the spread of chronic wasting disease.

One family-run feed mill said it lost more than $85,000 in a single winter during the ban.

Today, baiting is allowed in a few Wisconsin counties, but prohibited in most.

Businessowners in Kansas fear major losses, too.

In Osage County and Coffee County alone, anti-feeding rules would put three people out of business, lodge owner Graham warned Kansas wildlife commissioners.

“We contribute to the economy,” he said. “We care about the habitat.”

Hunter Nation also makes an economic case. It points to data from the Sportsmen’s Alliance, whose membership includes major hunting retailers and ammunition suppliers.

A report commissioned by the group estimates people seeking to hunt deer and other animals forked out more than $500 million on equipment, travel and related services in Kansas in 2020.

The report does not indicate how a ban on baiting and feeding would affect this spending.

Wildlife officials are considering putting a stop to baiting and feeding not just to slow the spread of disease, but also because the practices can lead to extra high deer numbers in some areas.

This can lead, for example, to localized damage to bird and pollinator habitat or complaints from farmers about crop damage.

Biologists are also concerned that corn is the most common deer feed.

If deer eat too much corn, this can give them health conditions. Yet the animals can’t turn down the starches in it, said Levi Jaster, a biologist and big game coordinator at the wildlife department. It’s the cervid version of potato chips.

“I like potato chips,” he said. “Rarely do I open a bag and eat (just) one … even though I know they’re bad for me.”

Critics of the agency shoot back that corn is so ubiquitous on Kansas farmland that the animals will eat plenty of it no matter what.

Celia Llopis-Jepsen is the environment reporter for the Kansas News Service. You can follow her on Twitter @celia_LJ or email her at celia (at) kcur (dot) org.

The Kansas News Service is a collaboration of KCUR, Kansas Public Radio, KMUW and High Plains Public Radio focused on health, the social determinants of health and their connection to public policy.

Kansas News Service stories and photos may be republished by news media at no cost with proper attribution and a link to ksnewsservice.org.

By Dr. David Wartinbee, for the Redoubt Reporter

At this time of the year in Alaska, a drive of more than a couple hundred miles will involve some time during darkness. While heading north to visit friends during the holidays, I spotted a small, bright spot in the roadway ahead.

As my lights got closer, a huge, brown ungulate appeared surrounding that tiny light spot. I slowed appropriately. A few miles farther down the road, a pair of bright spots appeared on one side of the road. A second later I was able to see the faintly lit image of a lynx crossing the road. I had first seen both of these animals because of their tapetum lucidum reflecting my headlight illumination.

While many are familiar with the phrase, “A deer-in-the-headlights look,” not as many may realize there is an interesting anatomical basis for this situation. Most nocturnal animals, like dogs, cats, deer, etc., will demonstrate “eye shine” when a bright light is shown on them at night. What happens is the light entering the animal’s eyeball is being reflected right back at us as if there were a mirror in there. The mirror analogy is actually pretty close to what is happening.

In order to understand how the tapetum lucidum works, we have to know a little about the layers inside the eyeball itself. First, the retina is the thin, innermost layer of the eye and it contains the light-sensitive cells called rods and cones, and lots of blood vessels. In very close proximity to the rods and cones is a black layer called the choroid.

The important choroid layer absorbs light that has just passed by the light-sensitive

rods and cones. In humans that do not have a heavily pigmented choroids, like albinos, to absorb the passing rays, light gets reflected and scattered inside the eyeball. These individuals suffer with visual difficulties and even small amounts of light are blindingly bright.

In nocturnal animals with a tapetum lucidum, the choroid, or a special portion of the retina, will act as a slight reflector. The actual tapetum lucidum can vary in its composition depending on the specific animal. Since there are so many different animals that exhibit “eye shine,” it is easy to understand that there are many different kinds of reflective layers.

In some, it is composed of a special layer of iridescent crystals like guanine, or in others it might be a layer of cells with reflective fibers.

No matter how the reflection by the tapetum is accomplished, the incoming light is reflected right back past the very rods and cones that it originally passed. This essentially gives the rods and cones a second chance to detect the same light rays. That simple reflection greatly enhances night vision.

Also, by reflecting the light exactly back from where it came, the animal is able to create a crisp visual image rather than getting a blurry image that would occur if the light scattered randomly within the eyeball. It is believed that cats can see about nine times better at night than we can, since they have a tapetum and we do not.

The color of the reflective “eye shine” will vary according to the animal. Many reptiles

show bright red eye shine, while mammals vary from yellow, white, blue and green. There are variations even within the same species and there are lots of examples of one eye reflecting back one color while the other eye reflects back a different color. Along with birds, some fish, like walleye, have a tapetum.

Most primates — like humans — pigs, kangaroos and other day-active animals do not have a tapetum lucidum. Accordingly, our night vision is mediocre compared to those animals that are active at night.

Humans can produce a confusing situation known in the photography arena as “red eye.” This occurs when a flash of light illuminates the blood vessel-rich retina in the back of the eye and the eyes appear to be red. There is no tapetum involved here, just illumination of blood vessels. If the source of the flash were somewhere other than on the camera, there would be no “red eye.”

Imagine how our flash pictures might look if we had chartreuse-colored blood?

Another unusual situation in humans and some animals is the white glow that can appear in the eyes. This “eye glow” occurs when there are cataracts. The glow is caused by illumination of the crystals embedded within the lens of the eye and, again, is not caused by a tapetum.

Moose certainly have a tapetum lucidum, but I have wondered why we don’t often see the same bright headlight reflection from moose eyes that can be seen from smaller animals like dogs or cats. The answer probably comes from several different reasons.

First, moose are large animals and their eyes are often held above the level where our headlights are aimed. Because a moose’s eyes are on extreme sides of its head, it is difficult to see both of their eyes at the same time. So we most commonly get a reflection from only one eye at a time.

I have not been able to find much documentation on the size of a moose tapetum compared with other animals. However, after shining a bright flashlight beam at a moose from various angles, I have discovered that the tapetum in a moose’s eye is mostly in the very back of the eyeball.

When the moose is at right angles to you, your lights are not striking the tapetum, and you only get a slight “red-eye” reflection.

Only when the moose is looking directly at you, and they don’t do this all that often, will you see the bright, two-eyed reflection.

So, as a moose crosses the road, you and I get a single, slight reddish glow from an eye that is not reflecting back much light from our headlights. No wonder we don’t easily see that moose crossing up ahead.

The next time your lights fall on an animal and you see the distinctive “deer-in-the-headlights” reflection, you will know that particular animal is normally active at night. You’ll also know they have a microscopically thin tapetum lucidum in the back of their eyeball that aids in their night vision.

David Wartinbee, Ph.D, J.D., is a biology professor at Kenai Peninsula College’s Kenai River Campus. He is writing a series of columns on the ecology of the Cook Inlet watershed.

A lot of people tell me they’re interested in switching their traditional grass lawn over to a clover lawn. Now, a clover lawn could mean you are intentionally adding clover to your lawn, or it could mean you are planting only clover. Usually the people I encounter are considering a lawn made up entirely of clover — no other plants… a monoculture.

When you search Google Images for lawn alternatives you are sure to find some beautiful eye candy showing gorgeous, perfectly uniform lawns made up entirely of microclover, a cultivar of white clover bred to grow to a very short height. The human eye seems to be really attracted to simple, clean, and manicured. They like patterns and uniformity. I’m all for minimalism and simplicity, but nature often is not a fan. Nature wants diversity, chaos, checks and balances.

I think most people find appeal in a clover lawn because it doesn’t need to be mowed. It also would possibly need less watering and fertilizing (though that doesn’t need to be done in a grass lawn either). These points appear at first glance to equate to fewer resources — great! They might also be attracted to the fact that clover simply is not grass, so it’s counter-culture (also wonderful).

But while I applaud anyone looking into lawn alternatives, this particular approach has some major problems.

1. It’s still a monoculture.

Monocultures, cultivation of a single plant in a given area, are difficult to maintain, especially in medium moisture environments where clover thrives. You will be battling weeds if you want to maintain a clover-only lawn. Monocultures are also risky, because you’re putting all your eggs in one basket (or is it “seeds in one packet”?). If your clover fails, there are no other plants there to cover the soil and you’ll need to start all over again attempting to establish something in exposed soil.

2. Grass will show up.

Unless you consistently use a grass-specific herbicide, grass will grow in your clover lawn. If you are trying to maintain a clover monoculture, this means you will either have to spray or pull the grass. Pulling grass, especially in an area the size of a lawn, would be exhaustive or in some cases outright impossible. If you don’t spray or pull the grass, you will need to mow the grass to avoid fines if you live in a city (most cities have ordinances limiting grass/weed heights). All of these options directly contradict many of the reasons most people are looking into a clover lawn.

3. It has less foot traffic tolerance.

Clover isn’t quite as tolerant of foot traffic as grass. For example, if I were to go outside and practice Taekwondo forms in the lawn, and I picked a spot that was more clover than grass, the repetitive spinning and pivoting would completely tear up the delicate clover stems and leaves. In comparison, grass can withstand much more abuse. I can practice for an hour in the same spot on grass, and it’ll just be flattened and spring back to full force within a day or two.

4. It’s less aggressive.

Clover is simply less aggressive than grass in spreading and growing. When you are trying to grow a lawn, this quality is highly desired. That’s why grass is used in high foot traffic areas. It’s a tough plant, but it also grows and spreads like crazy, so even if the plant is harmed, it just rapidly clones and reseeds and all is good again.

5. It dies back in the winter.

Clover also dies back in the winter and needs to grow back from the roots in the spring. So there will be a period of time where there is no ground cover. And what do you get when you mix zero plant cover with spring rain? Yes, mud. With grass, the plant above the soil stays intact but goes dormant. Then it springs back to life in the spring. Even before it’s green, it’s still there, covering the soil in a thick mat and preventing erosion and mud pits.

6. It’s resource intensive.

A clover monoculture lawn will be just as hard to maintain as a grass monoculture lawn. It may require herbicides or hours and hours of labor pulling grass and weeds. And it may need to be watered in times of drought. Plus, if you currently have a grass lawn, you will need to kill or remove the current living plants to sow the clover seeds. Then you will need keep everyone off, water consistently, and battle a major onslaught of weeds who will flock to your exposed soil until the clover is established.

My opinion

What I foresee for people who try to convert to a clover lawn is that they will eventually give up the battle against the grass and start mowing it. What they will end up with is a grass lawn with clover — which is great because clover is a very useful and beneficial additive to lawns (it fixes nitrogen), along with other great plants that tolerate mowing and foot traffic. But, it would have been a lot easier, cheaper, and less painful, to have just started off adding some clover seed into their grass lawns.

The bottom line: If you need a lawn (find out here) use grass, but also allow biodiversity so it’s less boring, cheaper, easier to maintain, and better for the local ecology. Plants that show up in your lawn and stay there, are plants that want to grow in those conditions. As long as they are not considered invasive species let them grow! All plants have evolved to be here because they serve a purpose in their ecosystems. Nature has handed them to you as a gift. Learn what each plant is — most weeds also have human uses, too. They might be edible or medicinal or useful as cut flowers. They might also help fertilize and/or aerate your lawn and give food to wildlife. When you open your heart and your lawn to a variety of plants, amazing things happen.

During the week Jason Price is a management consultant and efficiency expert. At the weekend he has an odd fascination with doing things by hand, like baling hay.

Words: Jason Price Images: Jason Price, Andrew Ward

Who: Jason Price & Bella the Corporate Dog Akatarawa Valley, 40km north-east of Wellington What: 1.2ha Twitter: @Corporate_Dog, @Jason_E_Price Web: Check out Jason’s other passion, Norwegian round wood stacks

It’s important to know what you’re getting into when it comes to managing your first-ever lifestyle block. Alternatively, you can say to yourself “oooh, that’s a lovely spot” and just move to your dream property. That’s what I did.

One of my first problems was what to do with the fast-growing spring pasture on my hilly paradise. I did get some helpful advice from block-owning friends.

“Seriously, you haven’t got sheep yet?”

That began my journey into land management and sheep. A few weeks later, three enthusiastic lambs arrived and promptly disappeared into the long grass. The stunned expression on their woolly little faces matched my own.

My first thought was to make hay. The sun was shining. Machine mowing the steep gradient of my block makes that too dangerous. A small budget meant hiring a contractor wasn’t a viable option either.

Hay has been cut, dried and baled by hand since medieval times. How hard could the old-fashioned way of doing things be? Project DIY Hay Baler began. Google provided a range of articles. I quickly clicked past the one entitled “don’t buy a lifestyle block until you’ve done your homework” and moved on to the traditional haymaking results.

The basic method of making hay is cut, rake, turn, dry, bale.

The North Carolina Forestry Service’s leaflet on how to build a simple box baler got me enthused about what they called: “A low-cost, simple-to-operate-and-build solution that is ideal for small-scale/start-up operations.” I ignored the drawbacks column with its pessimistic talk: • cumbersome • labour-intensive • limited production

And the most pertinent to someone in my profession: • inefficient

DOWNLOAD THE NCFS BOX BALER BUILD INSTRUCTIONS

STEP ONE: CUT AND RAKE YOUR GRASS (THE HARD WAY)

I did make one concession to modernity and common-sense. I admire the many people on YouTube who show such enthusiasm for cutting grass with a traditional scythe. But learning to scythe on a hilly section of the Akatarawa Valley would be more likely to result in a trip to the hospital. Scythes are also surprisingly expensive to buy and require a high level of skill to use efficiently. A petrol brushcutter with a grass cutting blade would do the job.

The grass was knee-height, the weather forecast was for a week of sun, and I had time off work. Manually cutting a hillside field of grass is as labour-intensive, cumbersome, and inefficient as you’d imagine. Once cut, the grass needed to be raked up into windrows. These long lines help the piled-up grass to dry out. Work methodically across the field, raking the cut grass up into mounded rows.

This is a nice way to spend a sunny day but it’s easier if you can find others to help you. My helpers were bull terrier-cross Beanie and white German Shepherd Kujo. Their definition of ‘help’ was to repeatedly crash through the neatly-raked rows. Occasionally they would wee on it.

One essential investment is a decent pitchfork. You need to turn each windrow twice a day, about lunchtime and again in the late afternoon-early evening, to dry the hay. You want to turn and spread it out to expose any hidden green grass to ensure it is evenly sun-baked. Too green and wet and your hay will go mouldy, or worse, get so hot it starts a fire in your barn.

JASON’S TIPS FOR MAKING A HAY RAKE

I didn’t have a suitable hay rake, so I made one out of a broom handle, a length of scrap timber and some 8mm dowelling. This was a lot cheaper than those for sale online. Miraculously, it also works well. Don’t glue the dowel ‘teeth’ in place. It’s a lot easier to pull them out and replace them when they break. If you want to be efficient, cut yourself some spare dowels and take them with you when you’re raking.

STEP TWO: BUILD A BOX BALER

You will need to print the instructions to make this baler. The following is my commentary on my project as I followed (and sometimes didn’t follow) those instructions.

I bought the timber, plywood, coach bolts, screws, door hinges, and eye hooks from Mitre 10 for under $110.

1. The box baler is a square loading box with a lever system to compress the hay. It’s attached to a loading platform, providing stability to balance the lever arm. The loading platform frame and the loading box are constructed from 4×2 timber, with sheets of plywood in between. Start by constructing the base platform from two long and one short length of 4×2”.

2. The rear corners of the loading box are two pieces of 4×2” timber attached to one another at right angles and fixed to the base platform. Screw a sheet of plywood between these and fix the central 4×2” length to the centre to hold the lever arm.

3. Fix another piece of 4×2” to the base to form the front of the loading box. Connect across the top with a shorter length of 4×2”, holding the side plywood sheeting. On the front, below the cross beam, cut a plywood piece for the door.

You’ll notice I went for a two-door front-opening model as opposed to the single door version in the reference plans. There was no strategy behind this; I cut a bit of plywood in the wrong place and had to adapt it to get the baler finished in a day. It works fine, but in practice, I think the single door model would be more robust during the baling process. Fix the door to the side upright with hinge or hinges and add a secure closing mechanism (either a bolt or a hook on the far side).

4. Make the lever arm and compression platform. The lever arm is made up of two shorter lengths of 4×2” and a long central length. Use coach bolts to secure these at the top of the central pillar on the back. In the centre of the space between the two shorter lengths, use a coach bolt to fix the vertical 4×2” that holds the compression platform (the bit that goes into the box baler top). The compression platform itself is a square of plywood, the same dimensions as your box, attached by two pieces of 4×2 (in photo 4 you can see it where it inserts into the loading box). When the arm is lowered, this compresses your hay inside the box.

5. The floor of the loading box has two pieces of wood fixed to it, with eye hooks sitting next to them. These are the runners that hold your baling twine in place. Fix these into the floor of your baler and screw in the eye hooks so the side of the eye is touching the wood.

5a. Fix two eye hooks to the outside back of the baler. Position a little way down from the top, and keep them in line with the floor runners. These hold the baler twine ends during loading.

6. You’ll notice the doors have slits cut into them. These should be at the same distance as the floor runners. The slits allow you to tie the baler twine.

I discovered two things from this experience: • human beings can improvise if they need to; • the woodworking adage of ‘measure twice, cut once’ is correct and it’s better to pay attention the first time around.

STEP THREE: GATHER AND BALE YOUR HAY

At this point, you will definitely need help from others. This is also when you learn why the original article had the word ‘cumbersome’ in its list of disadvantages. Carrying the baler down to the field is a two-person job.

You also discover an oversight in the plans. Robust carrying handles would be a good addition.

Gathering the hay was relatively straightforward. We used a large blue tarpaulin. One person was on pitchfork duties and two more people dragged the tarpaulin. We also had three dogs to disrupt the process and liberally scatter hay. It’s a great team-building exercise. You’ll quickly find yourself with a large haystack on a tarpaulin that you can slide easily around your field. Move the hay to sit beside the baler.

HOW TO USE THE BALER

This is an important health and safety message. If you take the easy option of resting the compression platform on top of the loading box frame, it can slip off and you’ll get a nasty bump on the head.

The moving parts can trap a finger, so be careful when you’re using it. We worked out that folding the level arm right back (as seen in the image below) after making each bale was worth the few seconds to avoid it falling and causing injuries.

1. Set up the hay baler with twine, ready for loading. Put a loop of twine over the eye hook on the back of the baler and run it down the inside of the loading box. Run it under the gap between the eye hooks and wooden strip on the baler floor. Don’t put it through the eye hooks – it needs to go between them and the wooden strip (see 1A, below).

This allows the twine to slip out once you’ve tightened it. If you run it through the eye hook, you’ll just fix your finished bale to the floor of the box and have to start again.

2. Bring the end of the twine through the slot in the front door, leaving enough length to tie it off later.

3. Repeat these steps on the other side so you have two lines of twine set up.

4. Close and bolt the door, then fill the baler with hay from your haystack. Press it down by hand after each addition of hay. Keep loading until the hay sits level with the top of the baler box.

5. Take your bailer twine off the eye hook at the back. Bring it over the top of the hay in the baler.

Find the top of the slit in the front door and bring the twine through, ready for tying off in a moment (see 5A).

6. Carefully bring the baler arm over and insert the flat plate into the top space of the baler.

7. Pull down on the arm to compress the hay inside into a tight bale. If, like me, you opt for the two-door model, you might need to put your foot in front of the door to stop it bursting open. This is a good reminder to accurately follow the plans next time.

8. Once the hay is compressed, take the ends of the baler twine from the top and bottom of each slot and tie them up tightly together. This holds your compressed bale together when you open the door. If you break the twine, you’ll have to unload the baler, re-set it and start again.

9. Lift up the compression arm so it’s clear of the baler. You can rest it on the top, but it’s better to put it back in the ‘safe’ position ready to start again.

10. Open the front door to reveal your compressed hay bale.

11. Give the twine a tug and pull forward your compressed bale onto the loading platform. Practice makes perfect. Our processing time for the first bale was 12 minutes. We got to a final production-line-efficiency time of under five minutes to re-set, fill, tie, compress, unload and stack a neatly-packed bale.

We’re not going to win any awards for farm efficiency compared to machine baling, but it does have some advantages: • it’s an oddly entertaining way to spend a day with friends in a field; • it’s low-cost if you live on a block that is too small to warrant investment in machinery or a contractor, or not accessible for a tractor; • it gives you a satisfying sense of achievement as you innovate new ways to speed up your production line process; • I got a lot fitter.

Our productivity could have been increased further by not having dogs barrelling through the haystack. However, that would have cut back on a lot of the fun. My knee-length grass problem was turned into around 40 bales of hay. You do need to factor in the cost of beers and a barbecue to thank the raking, moving and baling team. Hay baling by hand is an experience to remember.

Love this story? Subscribe now!