Introduction: Crappie Fishing and the Length of Rods

I was recently down at the Cabelas near the house and happened to browse through the fishing rods as one does when in a Cabelas or a BassPro.

While being familiar with crappie fishing and having my favorite rods for various purposes in various lengths, I couldn’t help but notice the sheer numbers of rods and lengths available. I can only imagine how overwhelming it can be to try and select a fishing rod, especially if you are a beginning fisherman.

With that in mind we are going to discuss what the best crappie rod length is in a given situation and why you might want to select a different length. But let’s start with a quick answer, for what is the best crappie rod length, before we dive into the details.

The ideal length of a crappie rod is dependent on the style of fishing you intend to do. For shooting the docks and targeted casting a 6 foot rod is ideal. For crappie spider rigging and trolling then a 14 to 16 foot rod is the perfect choice. When ice fishing for crappie, select a rod that’s around 2 to 3 feet in length.

Now that the best lengths are out of the way, let’s discuss why these lengths are the best.

Length of Crappie Rods – Best Crappie Rod Length for Each Fishing Style

When looking for a crappie rod you can find lengths starting as small as 2 feet and ranging all the way up to 20 feet long.

This huge variance in rod lengths is due to the nuances of fishing and the different baits, presentations and conditions present during each style of fishing.

Length for Crappie General and Targeted Casting

For all around fishing in the most flexible conditions I feel that a rod between the lengths of 5 and 7 feet is ideal. Hence why I recommend a length of about 6 ft for targeted casting. Targeted casting includes working a bait along the shore line, targeting bushes and rocky outcroppings and of course shooting the docks.

A rod that is 6 feet long is small enough that you can control your cast, but still large enough to use it to control and lead the fish. Often it is necessary to guide the fish away from certain obstacles as you real it in, you will find they attempt to snag the line on anything they can once hooked.

Ideal Length of a Crappie Rod for Ice Fishing

When talking about ice fishing for crappie I mean on lakes that have a good solid ice layer over them. In these instances you are often going to be cutting a hole in the ice and fishing through that.

Since you are fishing straight down in these cases, there is relatively little need to have a long rod to properly position the bait and retrieve your fish.

For these reasons I recommend that you select a rod that is around 2 to 3 feet in length. Keep in mind that with this length of rod you need a limber rod with light action. (Quality rods should list their action rating.)

This lighter action will help to compensate for the pull when you set the hook.

Selecting a Rod Length for Spider Rigging and Trolling

Spider Rigging and Trolling style crappie fishing is where the big rods come out. Both of these techniques use the extremely long rods crappie fishing is known for.

While it is possible to spider rig with poles as short as 8 feet in length, this frequently results in tangled lines.

With many tournaments allowing as many as 8 rods, spider rigging and trolling both take advantage of this.

Rods are mounted along the front of a boat and fanned out in several directions from there, creating the appearance of spider legs reaching over the water.

Unless there is a lot of overhanging cover such as trees the longer a rod here the less chance that you will tangle your lines. Longer rods also allow you to cover more water if fishing above channels or drop offs under the surface.

Most professional crappie fishermen prefer a rod in the vicinity of 14 to 16 feet with it seeming that 16 feet rods are the most commonly seen in tournaments.

If you know what depths you intend to fish then you can set up your rods in the style of a cane pole. In these cases the rod has no reel, simply a line that is cut close to the same length as the pole. This has the advantage of allowing you to simply pick up the rod and the fish swings to you.

If you want to adjust the depths you’re fishing at though, make sure to select a crappie rod that has eyelets and a reel.

Weight Considerations For Length

While it may not be a factor you have considered, keep in mind that the longer the pole, the more it will weigh. For instance a 16 foot Lews Wally Marshall only weighs 9.6 ounces without a reel this feels like far more when it’s all held out in front of you.

I suggest that you hold the pole for a few minutes in the store to see how comfortable it is to do so. If after a relatively short period it causes pain in your wrists then you might want to go with a shorter rod.

1,2,3 Piece Rod or Collapsable How is Length Affected?

In years past sometimes your only option for longer rods was a two or 3 piece rod. Now it is not that uncommon to find 1 piece rods up to 8 feet in length.

When selecting a rod length for crappie fishing, make sure to consider not only the overall length of the rod when assembled, but also its transport length.

This becomes even more critical if you have extended travel times to reach the fishing hole. Two and three piece rods allow you to separate the pieces and reduce their overall length in that manner.

The downside to doing so with these rods is that frequently they are still rigged for fishing and if you are not careful they can easily get tangled.

Another option is telescoping rods. These rods are frequently made from fiberglass or other light weight material and feature sections that slide into each other. These come in both cane pole styles with no eyelets as well as styles designed for reels in which eyelets are positioned at each section.

One drawback is telescoping rods can rarely be found in lengths longer than 8 to 10 feet. This means you will need a 3 or even a four piece rod if looking for rods of that length.

There are mixed opinions on collapsing fishing rods, but I do feel they definitely have a place in my fishing gear.

My favorite telescoping rod is a 6’6” KastKing Blackhawk while it’s not the super long rod used for trolling, it makes an excellent all around and general casting rod to keep in the truck.

Conclusion:

To sum it up, while there is no “best” there are definitely use cases for a specific length of crappie fishing rod.

If you take nothing else from this post though, suffice it to say that for most teenage and adult anglers a 6 foot crappie rod featuring light or ultralight action is the way to go.

This length will get them started in the sport and present them with the largest selection of fishing styles. This length of crappie rod can be used for casting, spinning, fishing with a jig and shooting the docks, you can even fish a minnow under a bobber with no problems.

If you want to know more about selecting a rod length check out this article on rod lengths by age group. In the meantime, hit the water, catch a slab or two and enjoy the outdoors.

It seems as though there aren’t many new methods for taking a buck these days. It almost seems as though every tactic for killing big bucks has already been brought to the table. That is what I thought until I spoke with Iowans Todd Pringnitz and Ted Miller from White Knuckle Productions. What they taught me was that there is an exciting new method out there for drawing in bucks. It is the horizontal rub post. That’s right. Horizontal.

We are all familiar with rubs. They are as commonplace in the deer woods as the deer themselves, but rarely does hunting rubs alone bring in a buck. Horizontal rub posts do. They were the creation of Ted Miller, and he actually discovered them by mere happenstance.

While filming elk in Yellowstone National Forest nearly ten years ago, Miller got repeated footage of bulls that were attracted to certain areas with blown down trees. They would rub their antlers on those trees or on branches shooting out horizontally. He wasn’t looking for this behavior at all. He was just observant enough to pick up on what the elk were doing, and it got him thinking, “I wonder if I can try this at home on whitetails.”

When he returned home he started putting his idea to work. What he found was pretty interesting. “I didn’t have any experience making these posts, so for my very first one, I went to one of my food plots and drove two posts into the ground and wired a limb to the posts about knee high or a little higher,” he recalls. “That was back when trail cameras were really just catching on. I didn’t have a trail camera at the time, so I just went back two or three days later and checked on it.” The limb had been worked.

So, he set up a ground blind at that spot, and on his first night sitting in the blind with his son, a large buck came and worked the post right in front of them. They got some good video footage of the deer working the rub but when it came time to shoot, the deer spooked. Regardless, the experience was one Miller will never forget, and is likely the very first time a hunter has ever used a horizontal rub post. It set the stage for many more such encounters for Miller. “That was the very first one I ever did and over the years I have figured out what the deer like and want out of them. I have been able to improve them along the way.”

The Limb Matters

The main thing that Miller found was that the type of limb can make all the difference. “Most hunters in Iowa were using cedar trees in their posts. The adage is that bucks prefer to rub on cedars, but they weren’t having a lot of success with them. I have found that Scotch pine limbs work the best.” The reasons are brilliant when you think about it.

First, when using scotch pines, there is no need to cut down the whole tree as you would with a cedar. Mature scotch pines are bigger, allowing you to simply cut off a limb rather than take the whole tree. Plus, they are not native to the area. They are more of a Christmas tree and are planted and easy to find if you look around. Miller has several planted in his yard, making finding them a cinch!

He also notes that the limbs should be about the size of your wrist or slightly larger in diameter so they won’t break when a buck gets aggressive with it.

Another thing that he has learned over the years – and probably the most important thing – is that once you find the limb you are going to use, cut it longer than the gap between your posts. “I like to run my limb about two feet or so past one end of my posts so it sticks out from the end on the side I want the bucks to work. I found that they prefer working the end that is sticking out past the posts much more than they do the part of the limb that lies between the posts. I think it is just more convenient for them.”

Another trick that he has discovered is to attach the limb loosely to the posts so it has some play in it. “Different bucks have different personalities. Some like to get aggressive and fight with it a little bit, so when I wire my limb up, I do so that it will move up and down about six inches to a foot or so. This gives it some give and allows the limb to rock up and down when a buck wants to fight with it and such.”

The last couple of years Miller has been adding a licking branch to his horizontal rub posts. “I just run another limb above it to act as a sign post. I’m just trying to give a buck everything that he wants in order to hold his attention.” He usually just attaches the licking branch above the end of the limb that sticks out past the post, but he says that if your posts are tall enough you can attach it to one of them and have it hang down. Or, you can also position your set-up underneath a tree that has a limb hanging down above your horizontal limb. Any situation will work.

An Added Benefit

A really great thing about using these rub posts is that they actually hold a deer in a certain spot for a while. A great plus for Miller who enjoys getting video footage of deer. “It’s really hard to get a buck to stop long enough to get any decent footage of him, but with these rubs, they tend to stay there and work it for a little bit. This really helps me out when I am filming. It also allows you to learn a lot about buck behavior.”

What Bucks Use It?

Miller has seen everything from spikes to Boone and Crockett bucks use his horizontal rubs, so no matter what type of buck you are after, it will work. He does note, however, that some bucks, especially smaller ones, will come in cautiously as they might be intimidated at first. But nonetheless, it attracts bucks of all calibers.

Scent?

Nope. Miller doesn’t use any on his limbs, noting that the Scotch pine itself is a sticky, sappy type of tree anyway and will absorb and hold the scent of the deer that use it. That is all that is required to help draw more deer in.

Where and When to Use It

Obviously they are most effective towards the rut, but they are effective earlier than that as well. Miller notes that bucks will begin hitting them as soon as they shed their velvet, although the most active times are from mid-October until the rut is completed, so be sure to set yours up around the first of October or so.

As for where to place your horizontal rubs, Miller doesn’t feel that a buck is going to get up and walk a half-mile just to hit it, so he says to set them up anywhere you feel that bucks want to be or in areas where you plan to hunt and see high buck activity. Food plots and staging areas are prime examples.

The Bottom Line

Miller found his horizontal rub post system by accident, and he has perfected it over the years. In my opinion, this may be one of the most under-utilized tactics for drawing in bucks, and perhaps, one you should be trying this fall.

To learn more about Miller’s horizontal rub posts, check out www.whiteknuckleproductions.com.

SALT LAKE CITY, Utah (ABC4) – The Utah Division of Wildlife Resources (DWR) has announced a statewide emergency closure to “shed hunting” in an effort to help wintering big game, particularly deer populations. The last time shed hunting was prohibited in Utah was 2017.

The antler gathering restrictions are effective Feb. 7 through April 30 across Utah, on both private and public lands, according to a press release.

DWR biologists have reportedly been monitoring the condition of the deer, as well as snow depths and winter temperatures, throughout Utah since early Dec.

These monitoring efforts include “body condition and health assessments,” conducted during the big game captures that take place each Dec. Biologists measure and record “overall deer condition, body fat levels and fawn weights” of the animals going into winter, the release states.

Biologists also place GPS collars on deer to monitor animal migrations and survival.

Data from these monitoring efforts and GPS tracking reportedly show that the extreme cold and increased snowpack across the state are starting to impact mule deer fawn survival rates, and may negatively impact the ability of the adult deer to survive the winter.

In these types of conditions, big game animals are weakened and highly vulnerable to repeated human-caused disturbances. The unnecessary expenditure of energy and stress associated with disturbance — like being repeatedly followed by someone gathering shed antlers — may significantly decrease the survival rates of big game animals, particularly deer, this winter. Closing the shed antler and horn gathering season will minimize a major source of disturbance in the areas and during the time periods when big game animals are the most exposed and vulnerable. Shed antler gathering is not the only winter activity with the potential to disturb wintering wildlife. We encourage everyone to be aware of wildlife during this vulnerable period and do their best to not disturb them.

Utah Division of Wildlife Resources Director J. Shirley

The release states these temporary restrictions also apply to looking for horns and antlers still attached to the skull plate of a deceased animal, in addition to naturally shed antlers.

DWR conservation officers will reportedly be conducting additional patrols this winter to enforce the restrictions and ensure that people aren’t disturbing wintering wildlife. “Violators may be cited,” according to the DWR.

The DWR has also implemented “emergency deer feeding” in parts of Rich, Summit and Cache counties. Biologists may also feed deer in additional locations, if emergency feeding criteria are met. However, deer feeding will reportedly not happen in areas where chronic wasting disease, a fatal, neurological illness among deer, elk, moose, etc., has been found.

Except for other emergency changes made since Jan 1, 2024, all other rules established in the 2024 Big Game Application Guidebook remain in effect.

“We know shed hunting is a popular pastime for many families in Utah, and we appreciate everyone’s understanding and cooperation in waiting to go gather antlers until after April 30,” DWR Big Game Coordinator Dax Mangus said. “These efforts will help reduce stress on Utah’s big game animals and increase their chances of surviving the winter.”

The DWR states they will continue to monitor the condition of deer and the winter conditions across the state and may lift the closures earlier than April 30, if conditions allow.

What’s the best low light hunting scope you should take afield?

I think most hunters can likely agree that choosing the best low light hunting scope can be pretty tough, especially for those who are new to hunting or just don’t know a lot about optics in general.

It’s easy to get overwhelmed when searching for hunting scopes on the internet or when browsing the optics section of a sporting goods store. Even if you get past that initial overwhelming shock of seeing the sheer variety of optics choices billed as “low light hunting scopes,” cutting through the marketing jargon optics companies use to sell their products is a massive task itself.

I know how you feel and I’ve experienced much of that same frustration myself.

Though I’ve never owned a truly bad scope, I freely admit that I’ve purchased a few models that I wasn’t happy with and would not recommend to others. Nobody likes wasting money on a product that doesn’t live up to expectations and finding out you bought a sub-par rifle scope after having high expectations about how it would perform will definitley leave a bad taste in your mouth.

The good news is that we’re living in something of a golden age for hunting optics and the best scopes today are much better than was the case even 10 years ago. Indeed, there is a plethora of quality hunting scopes on the market today that provide exceptional performance at the range and afield.

In this post, I share my picks for the best low light hunting scopes. None of them are perfect, but the right scope can provide a vital edge when you need it most.

This is especially true during low-light conditions when many species of big game are most active. A scope with good low light performance can mean the difference between going home empty handed and punching your tag on the buck or bull of your dreams in a situation like that.

Before we get started, here’s a disclaimer: some of the links below are affiliate links. This means I will earn a small commission if you make a purchase.

This commission comes at no extra cost to you. This helps support the blog and allows me to continue to create free content that’s useful to hunters like yourself. Thanks for your support.

Now that we’ve got that out of the way, let’s get started.

Feel free to scroll straight through the article, or click one of the links below to jump straight to the best low light rifle scope in the specific category you’re looking for.

Best Value Low Light Hunting Scope

Best Low Light Hunting Scope Under $200

Best Low Light Hunting Scope Under $1,000

Best Low Light Hunting Scope Under $2,000

Best Low Light Hunting Scope Under $3,000

Best Overall Low Light Hunting Scope

Best Leupold Low Light Hunting Scope

Best Vortex Low Light Hunting Scope

Best Long Range Low Light Hunting Scope

Best Value Low Light Hunting Scope

Leupold VX-5HD 3-15x44mm

I’ll cut straight to the chase: I think the Leupold VX-5HD is the best value low light hunting scope currently available on the market. Not only that, but this is my favorite hunting scope in general. Period.

Why? Well, the VX-5HD has fantastic glass with special anti-reflective coatings to provide outstanding light transmission. Plus, this particular model of the VX-5HD I’m recommending here also uses an illuminated FireDot Duplex reticle. Basically, it’s a standard duplex crosshair with an illuminated red dot in the center that you can turn on and off.

It works just like a typical scope during the day, but you can turn on that illuminated reticle to aid in aiming during low light conditions. I’ve been in several situations where I had game come out during legal shooting light, but it was dark enough that I had trouble seeing the animals with my naked eye.

Fortunately, the light gathering capabilities of the VX-5HD are so fantastic that I could see much better while looking through the scope.

For example, I successfully and cleanly took a big blue wildebeest with my VX-5 on a recent hunt in Africa at dusk when it was dark enough that I could not see the black crosshairs on his dark body. However, I just turned on the illuminated reticle, put the dot where I wanted to hit, squeezed the trigger, and he dropped at the shot.

There’s no way I could have ethically or practically taken that shot with a scope without that fantastic light transmission and without the illuminated reticle.

It’s also really easy to adjust the brightness of that FireDot reticle as well to turn it up for use during the day if desired, or turn it way down to minimize glare inside the scope for use in low light conditions.

The Leupold VX-5HD also comes with Leupold’s CDS-ZL system and a side focus parallax adjustment dial. Additionally, it has a wide zoom range from 3x all the way up to 15x on the high end that make it well suited for basically any hunting situation you can think of from whitetail in thick timber to open country pronghorn hunts.

This scope is also really well built, tracks beautifully, and holds a zero exceptionally well.

To be fair, the Leupold VX-6HD line has a few additional features that some hunters really like, but I own and have hunted with both. In my opinion, the VX-5HD provides the best balance of size, weight, price, and the features that are most important to me.

And yes, a couple of other scopes on this list provide even better low light performance, but all are considerably more expensive than the Leupold VX-5HD.

All in all, this is a fantastic low light hunting scope that provides high end performance at a surprisingly reasonable price. If that big buck or bull of your dreams steps out of the woods right at last light, you want a scope like the VX-5HD on your hunting rifle so you can make that shot when it counts.

Key Features

• Weight: 19.7 ounces
• Magnification Range: 3-15x
• Objective Lens Diameter: 44mm
• Exit Pupil (low magnification): 14.67mm
• Exit Pupil (high magnification): 2.93mm
• Tube Diameter: 30mm
• Field of View: 38.3-7.7 feet at 100 yards
• Turret Click Values: .25 MOA
• Reticle Focal Plane: Second
• Parallax/Focus: Side adjusting parallax/focus knob
• Knob Style: Capped Windage & Custom Dial System-ZL Elevation (CDS-ZL)
• Illuminated Reticle: Yes

Pros

• Wide magnification range
• Excellent quality glass
• Great low light performance
• Illuminated reticle is perfect for low light situations
• Great balance of useful features without too many unnecessary “extras”

Cons

• On the heavy side
• Lacks throw level on magnification ring
• Higher price point

BUY A LEUPOLD VX-5HD SCOPE ON AMAZON HERE

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Best Low Light Scope For Hunting Under $200

Vortex Crossfire II

The Vortex Crossfire II is a great entry level rifle scope and is exactly what you need if you want a no frills low light scope under $200 and don’t want to do a lot of shopping.

Let’s be realistic here: the Vortex Optics Crossfire II does not provide light transmission or image quality on par with some of the more expensive optics on this list. However, it’s still a capable low light hunting scope for those who don’t need a high performance optic and is a big step up over other lower price point scopes like the Bushnell Banner Dusk & Dawn.

This is because it has multi-coated lenses that facilitate light transmission and clarity under a variety of circumstances. It’s also available with a V-Brite Illuminated reticle as an additional option for those who want a more clearly defined aiming point at dawn or dusk.

Make no mistake: it’s more than adequate for many hunting situations, especially for hunters on a tight budget. I’d recommend moving up to something a little nicer if your budget allows though.

Key Features

• Weight: 14.3 ounces
• Magnification Range: 3-9x
• Objective Lens Diameter: 40mm
• Exit Pupil (low magnification): 13.33mm
• Exit Pupil (high magnification): 4.44mm
• Tube Diameter: 1-inch main tube
• Field of View: 34.1-12.6 feet at 100 yards
• Turret Click Values: .25 MOA
• Reticle Focal Plane: Second
• Parallax/Focus: Fixed at 100 yards
• Knob Style: Capped
• Illuminated Reticle: Yes (optional)

Pros

• Light and compact
• Very reasonable price
• Perfect for a budget conscious deer hunter
• Good glass

Cons

• Lower image quality than the higher end scopes
• Restrictive eye box
• No parallax adjustment dial

BUY A VORTEX CROSSFIRE II SCOPE ON AMAZON HERE

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Best Low Light Hunting Scope Under $1,000

Zeiss Conquest V4 3-12x44mm

European companies like Zeiss, Schmitt & Bender, and Swarovski (more on the others in a minute) are all known for producing outstanding quality optics in general. You tend to get what you pay for with that stuff though and European optics are also generally very expensive.

Fortunately, the Zeiss Conquest V4 is a great way to get a high quality European rifle scope with excellent light transmission capabilities for less than $1,000. This scope does not have a lot of “bells and whistles”, but it’s still an excellent German scope with great low light performance. Indeed Zeiss advertises that it uses six-layer multi-coated lenses to offer exceptional 90% light transmission and a clear sight picture.

This is not billed as an extremely lightweight hunting scope or one that’s ideally suited for long range hunting situations (look at something like the Zeiss Victory V, Victory HT, Conquest V6, or V8 if you want something along those lines). However, the Conquest V4 is an outstanding choice for a hunter who wants a good low light scope without paying for a bunch of extra features.

Key Features

• Weight: 22.5 ounces
• Magnification Range: 3-12x
• Objective Lens Diameter: 44mm
• Exit Pupil (low magnification): 14.66mm
• Exit Pupil (high magnification): 3.66mm
• Tube Diameter: 30mm
• Field of View: 19-4.8 feet at 100 meters
• Turret Click Values: .25 MOA
• Reticle Focal Plane: Second
• Parallax/Focus: Fixed at 50 yards
• Knob Style: Capped
• Illuminated Reticle: No

Pros

• Excellent light transmission at a reasonable price
• Very good quality glass
• Perfect for a hunter who wants a good scope without a bunch of “extras”
• Very durable

Cons

• Physically on the large and heavy side
• Smaller field of view
• No parallax adjustment dial
• No illuminated reticle

BUY A ZEISS CONQUEST SCOPE FROM AMAZON HERE

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Best Low Light Hunting Scope Under $2,000

Schmidt & Bender 3-12×50 Klassik

The Schmidt & Bender 3-12x50mm Klassik rifle scope is yet another great low light hunting scope from a European manufacturer. Closely related to the 3-12x50mm PM II USMC model the United States Marine Corps used on their sniper rifles for years, the Schmidt & Bender Klassik delivers a great balance of incredibly clearly glass, exceptional light transmission, and outstanding durability.

Don’t let the price of relative lack of marketing for this scope in the Untied States fool you: this is definitely one of the best low light hunting scopes available and has light gathering and transmission capabilities that perform right up there with some higher end (and much more expensive) models also on this list. Plus, it also has an illuminated reticle to further facilitate precision shooting under challenging lighting conditions.

To be perfectly honest, this scope is so good under low light conditions that it could even potentially get you into trouble by allowing you to take a shot outside legal shooting hours if you’re not careful!

All things considered, the Schmidt & Bender 3-12x50mm Klassik rifle scope is the perfect low light hunting scope for someone who wants the best possible light transmission and incredible durability without any extra or unnecessary features and without spending over $2,000.

Key Features

• Weight: 21.8 ounces
• Magnification Range: 3-12x
• Objective Lens Diameter: 50mm
• Exit Pupil (low magnification): 14.4mm
• Exit Pupil (high magnification): 4.2mm
• Tube Diameter: 30mm
• Field of View: 11.1-36.4 feet at 100 meters
• Turret Click Values: .25 MOA
• Reticle Focal Plane: First
• Parallax/Focus: Fixed
• Knob Style: Capped Windage & Elevation
• Illuminated Reticle: Yes

Pros

• Extremely durable
• Outstanding glass
• Illuminated reticle
• Great for a hunter who wants an outstanding good scope without a bunch of “extras”

Cons

• On the heavier side
• Higher price point

BUY A SCHMIDT AND BENDER KLASSIK SCOPE FROM EURO OPTIC HERE

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Best Low Light Hunting Scope Under $3,000

Swaroviski Z6i 2-12x50mm

We can’t talk about low light hunting scopes without mentioning Swarovski. Specifically, I think the Swarovski Z 6i 2-12x50mm scope is the best low light hunting scope under $3,000.

Swarovski optics are known for having some of the absolute best quality glass in the business. Well, the Z6i is one of their higher end scopes and uses incredible glass that provides outstanding transmission while at the same time minimizing glare and reflection.

The Swarovski Z6i also has an illuminated reticle that also facilitates aiming under dim lighting conditions. Users also have the option of adding a custom elevation turret for use at longer range. The wide zoom range combined with the with the large 50 mm objective lens also makes this a very flexible scope with a large exit pupil across a wide magnification range.

Plus, this scope is surprisingly lightweight considering its overall quality and the extra features it comes with.

All things considered, it’s tough to argue with a combination of crystal-clear images, incredible light transmission, moderate weight, and those additional features that make the Swaro Z6i such an excellent hunting scope both for use during the middle of the day as well as at dawn and dusk when things are so challenging.

In fact, someone could definitely make the argument that the Swarovski Z6i is the top overall pick on this list of the best low light rifle scopes.

Key Features

• Weight: 18.3 ounces
• Magnification Range: 2-12x
• Objective Lens Diameter: 50mm
• Exit Pupil (low magnification): 25mm
• Exit Pupil (high magnification): 4.16mm
• Tube Diameter: 30mm
• Field of View: 63-10.5 feet at 100 yards
• Turret Click Values: .25 MOA
• Reticle Focal Plane: Second
• Parallax/Focus: Fixed
• Knob Style: Capped Windage & Optional Custom Elevation Turret
• Illuminated Reticle: Yes

Pros

• Reasonable size and weight
• Outstanding quality glass
• Illuminated reticle
• Excellent image quality

Cons

• Higher price point
• No parallax adjustment dial

BUY A SWAROVSKI Z6i SCOPE FROM AMAZON HERE

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Best Low Light Hunting Scope

Tangent Theta TT315 3-15x50mm

If price is no option in your search for the absolute best possible low light hunting scope, then the Tangent Theta TT315 is what you need. A word of warning though: there’s a good chance you’ll never want anything else after you try out a Tangent Theta TT315.

This scope is specifically designed for professional marksman and incorporated all the features most useful in that role. Since those marksmen must look through their scope for long periods of time and depend on that scope to see minute target details, the TT315M has unsurpassed image quality and light transmission capabilities that allow the shooter to see the tiniest details of their target without eye fatigue and under periods of low light.

There are two downsides of this scope though: it’s very heavy and it’s very expensive.

To be perfectly honest, the vast majority of hunters do not need the low light performance of the Tangent Theta TT315 and there are plenty of other great low light scopes that aren’t quite as heavy or expensive. However, this is definitely the best low light rifle scope for those who do want/need that performance and who don’t mind shelling out a bunch of cash for this scope or lugging it around.

Key Features

• Weight: 36.15 ounces
• Magnification Range: 3-15x
• Objective Lens Diameter: 50mm
• Exit Pupil (low magnification): 11.5mm
• Exit Pupil (high magnification): 3.5mm
• Tube Diameter: 34mm
• Field of View: 12.8-2.8 meters at 100 meters
• Turret Click Values: .1 Mil
• Parallax/Focus: Side adjusting parallax/focus knob
• Knob Style: Non-translating knobs with elevation zero-stop & mechanical windage direction indicator
• Illuminated Reticle: Yes

Pros

• Wide magnification range
• Optimized for long distance performance
• Illuminated reticle
• Exposed elevation turrets facilitate rapid adjustments
• Side focus parallax
• Unsurpassed low light performance
• Excellent image quality

Cons

• Large and heavy
• Expensive

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Best Leupold Low Light Hunting Scope

Leupold VX-6HD 3-18x50mm

The Leupold VX-6HD product line is Leupold’s top end hunting scope lineup and the 3-18x50mm version of the VX-6HD is definitely the best Leupold low light hunting scope. I also think this line contains some of their best rifle scopes overall as well.

This is because it uses outstanding glass with superior coatings that facilitates excellent light transmission. Plus, this particular scope also has an illuminated FireDot Duplex reticle. Just like the VX-5HD I mentioned earlier, the FireDot Duplex reticle is a standard duplex crosshair with an illuminated red dot in the center that you can turn on and off.

The VX-6HD is basically an upgraded VX-5HD with a wider zoom range (6x instead of 5x), a little bit better quality glass, and a couple of other extra features many hunters like having like a reversible throw lever, an electronic reticle level, and flip up alumina lens covers.

While I think the VX-5HD is the best value low light hunting scope, those extra features and capability of the VX-6HD make it a better choice for other hunters who want a little bit better scope with slightly better low light performance, a couple of extra features, and who don’t mind spending a little bit more.

All things considered, the Leupold VX-6HD is an outstanding low light hunting scope. This scope provides a substantial improvement in low light performance over the VX-Freedom and VX-3HD scope lines as well as a modest improvement over the VX-5HD both overall and in the role of a low-light scope.

The VX-6HD definitely won’t let you down if you need to make a shot under low light conditions.

Key Features

• Weight: 22.9 ounces
• Magnification Range: 3-18x
• Objective Lens Diameter: 50mm
• Exit Pupil (low magnification): 16.67mm
• Exit Pupil (high magnification): 2.77mm
• Tube Diameter: 30mm
• Field of View: 38.3-6.4 feet at 100 yards
• Turret Click Values: .25 MOA
• Reticle Focal Plane: Second
• Parallax/Focus: Side adjusting parallax/focus knob
• Knob Style: Capped Windage & Custom Dial System-ZL Elevation (CDS-ZL)
• Illuminated Reticle: Yes

Pros

• Wide magnification range
• Excellent quality glass
• Illuminated reticle is perfect for low light situations
• Just about every feature you could want on a hunting scope

Cons

• On the large and heavy side
• Higher price point

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Best Vortex Low Light Hunting Scope

Vortex Razor HD LHT 3-15×50

Look no further than the Vortex Razor HD LHT if you want the best Vortex low light hunting scope. This scope uses high quality glass, has a reticle with a center illuminated dot, a side parallax knob, and an exposed elevation turret with Vortex’s RevStop Zero System (their version of a a zero stop).

There’s a reason why Vortex Optics markets the Razor HD LHT as “one scope to rule them all” and this scope has much improved low light performance over their lower tier Crossfire, Diamondback, and Viper lines. Not only his the Razor HD LHT a better low light hunting scope, but it’s also just a better performing rifle scope overall.

Indeed, it’s well suited for use in dark-timber on whitetails as well as for open country antelope or elk hunts where precision long range shots may be necessary.

The Razor HD LHT also comes with a coupon you can redeem with Kentron Industries to receive a custom elevation turret matched to your favorite hunting load to assist with making long shots on game and at the range.

Finally, the illuminated reticle is especially nice for use in low light conditions where there’s still legal shooting light, but it may be too dark to see the reticle. Just turn on the illuminated center dot, place that red dot where you want to hit, and squeeze the trigger. The reticle also works just fine during the daytime when illumination is turned off.

If you want the absolute best Vortex low light hunting scope, then the Vortex Razor HD LHT is just what the doctor ordered.

Key Features

• Weight: 19.1 ounces
• Magnification Range: 3-15x
• Objective Lens Diameter: 42mm
• Exit Pupil (low magnification): 14mm
• Exit Pupil (high magnification): 2.8mm
• Tube Diameter: 30mm
• Field of View: 35.3-7.0 feet at 100 yards
• Turret Click Values: .25 MOA
• Reticle Focal Plane: Second
• Parallax/Focus: Side adjusting parallax/focus knob
• Knob Style: Exposed elevation turret (MOA)
• Illuminated Reticle: Yes

Pros

• Can order a custom elevation dial
• Excellent glass quality
• Illuminated center dot
• Well suited for a variety of deer hunting situations

Cons

• Busy reticle
• On heavy side

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Best Long Range Low Light Hunting Scope

Nightforce ATACR 5-25×56

With a gigantic 56mm objective lens and fully multi-coated ED glass, the Nightforce ATACR is another excellent addition to this list of low-light scopes. This scope also has a large 34mm main tube and a zoom range from 5x all the way up to 25x on the high end that facilitates use at longer ranges.

It also provides over 35 mils of elevation adjustment. This scope is also available in first focal plane and second focal plane configurations. For those reasons, I think the ATACR is the best long range low light hunting scope.

So, this is the best rifle scope for you if you’re looking for something with excellent low light performance that you can also use to reach out to extreme ranges with.

Key Features

• Weight: 39.1 ounces
• Magnification Range: 5-25x
• Objective Lens Diameter: 56mm
• Exit Pupil (low magnification): 10.5mm
• Exit Pupil (high magnification): 2.2mm
• Tube Diameter: 34mm
• Field of View: 18-4.9 feet at 100 yards
• Turret Click Values: .25 MOA or .1 MRAD
• Parallax/Focus: Side adjusting parallax/focus knob
• Knob Style: Capped
• Illuminated Reticle: Yes

Pros

• Wide magnification range
• Optimized for long distance performance
• Illuminated reticle
• Exposed elevation turrets facilitate rapid adjustments
• Side focus parallax
• Unsurpassed low light performance
• Excellent image quality

Cons

• Large and heavy
• Expensive

BUY A NIGHTFORCE ATACR SCOPE ON AMAZON HERE

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BUY A NIGHTFORCE ATACR SCOPE AT OPTICS PLANET HERE

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NEXT: BEST HUNTING EAR PROTECTION FOR SPORTSMEN

A bucket-list dream came to life when I spent two days hunting hogs with helicopter pilot Kyle Lange, and learned some intense lessons along the way. Lange estimates he fires an average of 30,000 rounds at havoc-wreaking feral hogs and coyotes annually.

As a gun guy, I’d wheeze with enthusiasm over the opportunity to shoot at simple inanimate targets out of a helicopter. Heck, the opportunity to even go up in a chopper fills me with delight. Adding a target-rich environment of invasive species just adds to the challenge and the fun.

Hog Invasion

Much of Texas and the Deep South are overrun by wild hogs, and they damage millions of dollars of agricultural and native ecosystems every year. Prior to spring planting, farmers and state wildlife control make a push to reduce feral hog populations, which directly improves crop success.

Texas Parks & Wildlife estimate current feral hog populations in the Lone Star State at 1.5 million and growing exponentially every season. Young sows begin breeding around the age of six months, and their gestational period of 115 days yields up to three litters per year.

A big sounder (group of pigs) can root up acres of freshly planted crops in a single night. As a result, farmers and ranchers occasionally band together in an effort to radically reduce the population. Although it’s expensive, the most effective way – the only truly effective way – to reduce or even eliminate invasive hogs is by shooting them from a helicopter.

Hardware

Hunting feral hogs from a chopper introduces some surprising hardware considerations. For example, guns need a special shell deflector to prevent empty shell cases from flying up into the rotors and causing expensive damages – not to mention a rather abrupt landing.

Chopper rotor blades are incredibly sensitive. At one point, Lange noticed a rhythmic vibration in the chopper, which was caused by bird poop deposited on one of the blades overnight. Lange keeps specialized deflectors for AR-type rifles on hand, but sometimes shooters have to make their own – out of outlandish items such as the old motor oil bottle we fashioned onto fellow writer and Editor David Faubion’s AK.

Also, most guns will malfunction at least once during two days of hot and heavy shooting. It’s important to keep a compact cleaning kit, CLP and a small parts kit on hand.

There’s no doubt helicopter hog hunting emphasizes the value of high-capacity magazines. Lange has discovered that most AR magazines will feed up to 22 rounds or so of bulk steel-cased ammo reliably. Pack more in and you’ll have issues with some mags. He attributes it to the lesser lubricity and malleability of steel cases compared to brass.

Airborne Rifles

For decades, a good shotgun was the choice of aerial animal-control gunners. Scatterguns are still effective as ever, but they require pilots to get close – which is hard on the helicopter and tricky for the pilot. Plus, getting right down on animals with the rotor blades pounding them like a bass drum tends to scatter them in all directions, resulting in the need to climb, relocate, and pursue individual animals into thick brush. Additionally, hours of hammering heavy buckshot through a shotgun will pound even the toughest shooters into mush.

A better choice is the AR-15 rifle. Its reach allows pilots to hover a bit higher, which is easier on the machine. Animals also tend to stick together when the chopper stays higher, enabling shooters a chance to drop several hogs in quick succession. You burn through a lot of ammo – sometimes dumping a full magazine in one pass over a sounder of pigs.

The only concern I had initially was with the advisability of shooting big hogs with bulk FMJ .223 ammo. Which leads to the most surprising element of the experience: you may have to shoot a hog multiple times, but that FMJ ammo gets the job done. More often than not, hogs rolled with the first well-placed hit, and I’m pleased to say that we didn’t have a single wounded pig escape.

Ideally, heli-hog hunters should feed their rifles with something like Nosler’s 60-grain Partition or a Barnes TSX bullet – which would expand and impart much more energy – but such ammunition is far too expensive for crews shooting tens of thousands of rounds per year.

Another fantastic option would be to shoot an AR-15 chambered in .300 Blackout, which is potentially the perfect cartridge for the activity. But again, ammo cost is prohibitive. Lange did have one shooter use a .300 Blackout; he had a shell-catcher installed on his rifle and salvaged every piece of brass – often detrimental for making quick reloads.

Lange has also tried for years to make an AK-47 work. According to him, its 7.63x39mm cartridge hits pigs hard – but he hasn’t been able to get an AK to shoot with adequate precision or maintain integrity with an optic, which he considers vital for effective helicopter hog and coyote hunting.

Faubion used a Krebs Custom KV-13 on the hunt. It sported a forward optic rail, a decent trigger, and better-than-adequate accuracy. Mounted with a Trijicon RMR, it made for a fantastic close-range combat sight but was a bit coarse for use on running animals at 30 to 50 yards. Using a more precise optic like the Trijicon SRS (Sealed Reflex Sight) would have made Faubion’s setup much more helicopter-‘n-hog friendly.

Optimal Optics

A quality, non-magnified or low-magnification optic is vital to fast-paced shooting. It also needs to have very clear glass and have a fine aiming point.

Lange prefers Trijicon optics, and he’s particularly fond of the SRS. Its generous ocular lens and pinpoint red dots enables fast target acquisition and situational awareness. The SRS uses commonly available AA-batteries and is durable enough to withstand abuse and still maintain zero.

I opted to use a Trijicon VCOG in case I wanted a bit of magnification. It’s super durable, and offers true 1X (no magnification) at the low end of its 1-6x range. It worked great. After two days in the chopper, Lange was eyeing my VCOG with something I can only describe as lust.

Suppressors

Lange and other pilots prefer shooters use suppressors while shooting from the aircraft; both to minimize hearing loss and to avoid noise pollution for neighboring farmers. Even with hearing protection, the effect of hundreds of un-suppressed shots adds up quickly.

Reduced recoil is also an added benefit, making it easier to get back on target quickly. Just don’t touch that steaming hot can after a barrage of shots. Yes, I speak from experience.

Keys to Success

When shooting at wild game from a helicopter, every dimension is constantly changing. The chopper moves forward, sideways, up, down and usually a combination of directions. Animals run helter-skelter for parts unknown, and the shot distance, angle and required lead-time is always dramatically changing.

There’s simply no way to practice shooting from a moving platform, while leaning out of an aircraft and aiming at a target running in the opposite direction. You’ve got to learn on the fly (forgive the pun). Round counts tend to add up in a hurry.

Keys to success are staying loose, watching bullet impacts and adapting quickly. Be aware of the differing leads – when paralleling a running hog at roughly equal speeds, no lead is needed. If that animal is outstripping you, hold in front of it; if you’re overtaking, hold behind it. Holding behind a running animal seems counterintuitive, and it’s tough to do initially.

While not the most difficult type of shooting I’ve done – I reserve that distinction for very long shots on small targets in high wind with a precision rifle – shooting at zigzagging critters is undoubtedly the most intense shooting I’ve ever experienced.

Safety

It’s important to note that shooting from an aircraft is extremely safe. Sure, you’re hanging out of a door-less helicopter banging away at moving targets, but consider the fact that those bullets are going directly into the dirt – the potential for a ricochet is almost nonexistent. Plus, having a literal birds-eye view allows you to see any people or livestock in the area.

While most shooters don’t use a climbing-type harness, the seatbelts in choppers are secure. The craft we flew in had a five-point belt system in the front seats and a two-point system in the rear. Both were sufficient to make me feel safe while maneuvering in flight. However, if you’re skittish, bring a simple strap-type treestand harness and a carabiner for added peace of mind.

I also felt safe with Lange’s piloting experience; he’s your archetypical chopper-jockey. He often flies with his father, Aubrey, who served two tours as a medevac helicopter pilot in Vietnam. Together, they’ve net-gunned and relocated deer and exotic species for 20 years. Kyle also does aerial deer surveys and has extensive wildlife management experience. Plus, like many guys that spend their life driving a bubble in the sky through crazy maneuvers, he’s a humorist – never a dull moment.

Additional safety rules apply: While in the helicopter, “up” is no longer a safe direction for your muzzle. In fact, pilots are firm about keeping muzzles pointed down – at the ground and away from rotor blades. A negligent bullet headed through the rotor blades has drastic potential.

When flying, you’ll most likely have your gun in “hot” condition, meaning there’s a cartridge in the chamber. Attempting to remove the magazine and clear the chamber after every flurry of action is potentially more dangerous than simply putting the firearm on ‘safe’ and keeping the muzzle pointed safely out the door and down.

Doing It

Hunting from a helicopter can cost up to $800 per hour or more. If you’re like me, you don’t have that kind of unoccupied cash lying around. If you do have it, make reservations today and get up in the air. I was lucky enough to participate in my capacity as an outdoor journalist.

If you want to try something different than anything you’ve ever experienced, get up in the sky to do your part for invasive species control. It’s a trip you’ll never forget.

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I vividly remember attending a calling seminar by elk hunting legend Wayne Carlton when I was around 14 years old. Carlton put on one of the most entertaining seminars I have ever heard. After the show, I talked my dad into buying us one of Carlton’s new Fight’n Cow calls.

A couple of months later, on the opening day of Idaho’s archery elk season, after an uneventful morning, my dad and I were sitting high on a ridge, eating a sandwich and wondering what to do next. Finally, after some coaxing, Dad decided to try the new cow call. He assured me that every elk on the mountain would run the other way from the dreadful whining noise the call produced. After a short cadence of calls, though, he was proven wrong and I was blown away. You had to be there to believe it, but that mid-morning quietness was shattered by bulls bugling and coming to us from multiple directions. Over that season, we called in numerous bulls and got several shot opportunities using our newfound tool.

To my mind, the elk had never heard those noises from anything other than an elk, so when they heard it, they came to see an elk. As you can imagine, the initial effectiveness wore off over time, and they became like other elk calls – effective if used properly, but no longer the sure thing we experienced that first season.

Calls Have Comes a Long Way

Beyond the fighting cow and similar estrus-type calls, there has been a significant advancement in all elk calls, including diaphragms and grunt tubes. We as humans can imitate the sounds of live elk better than ever before, and new and existing companies are pushing the envelope and improving their offerings season after season. Here are some of the latest and best calls for your 2024 hunt.

Classic Call Companies

Rocky Mountain Hunting Calls

Rocky Mountain Game Calls has been in the game, producing quality elk calls, for a very long time, and that’s still the case today.

The Bull Basher Bugle Tube is a hybrid bugle with a molded body and aluminum mouthpiece. The aluminum mouthpiece allows for high pitches, and the helical “spitter” in the mouthpiece helps with airflow and makes controlling volume easier. Couple this with a throat design that provides optimal back-pressure and you can easily create a full range of bugles, chuckles and grunts. The best part is you get all this in a bugle only 18 inches in length.

The Steve Chappell 3 Pack Signature Series of diaphragms is a tremendous set of all-around calls that is very user-friendly and can make the full range of calls, from cow/calf mews to bugles from satellites and herd bulls. Made with the company’s successful GTP frame, these diaphragms will surely be a hit with serious elk hunters and beginners alike.

Rounding out Rocky Mountain Game Calls is the Voo Doo cow call. This external call is made with an acrylic barrel with vented holes to create ultra-realistic cow and calf sounds, and the ever-important estrus sounds for which this type of call is known.

Primos

Primos is another company that has been on top of the game call industry for many years, and for good reason: they make great stuff.

If you are looking for a compact bugle that’s super easy to operate, look no further than the Bullet Bugle Elk Call. This bugle uses the patented support shelf mouthpiece that lets you attach the famous snap-on blue reeds Primos perfected years ago. This system is highly user-friendly and perfect for those who struggle to use a diaphragm call to bugle, but still want to make great elk sounds.

The Top Pin is an excellent diaphragm in the Primos line. The sentry plate is set at the perfect angle for producing cow, calf and small bull sounds, and the single latex reed is very thin and easy to use.

Primos’s newest external reed cow call is the Tramplifier Open Reed. This open, single-reed call creates clear, high-pitched cow and calf noises and estrus sounds thanks to the acrylic barrel and soundboard. Available in long- and short-range models for locating or using in tight cover for that final call-in.

Native by Carlton

Years ago, Wayne Carlton sold his original company, Carlton Calls, to Hunter Specialties. Later in life, Wayne and his son Marc started Native by Carlton. They have a wealth of elk-hunting and call-making knowledge that goes into every Native call the manufacture.

New for 2024 is the Hunters Tube with Acrylic Mouthpiece. Many guys testing multiple bugle tubes say his bugle has exceptional back-pressure, which allows you to create the guttural groans and deep bugles that real elk make. Couple that with the acrylic mouthpiece that puts your lips in the perfect position for bugling, and you indeed have a bugle capable of making ideal elk sounds.

The new Yellow V3 Elk Diaphragms come in three sizes to ensure a model for everyone and three weights of latex to accommodate newcomers and the most seasoned elk callers. This call should be perfect for making the biggest bugles and soft cow and calf sounds, so you won’t need to change diaphragms in the field constantly.

New to the Game

Phelps Game Calls

I won’t say Phelps is a “new” company, but they haven’t been around as long as the above companies. However, they have been a strong player in the call industry for quite some time now, producing top-notch calls worthy of consideration.

This year’s newest addition is the Unleashed V2 Bugle Tube. At 12.5 ounces and 20 inches long, the V2 is smaller than the original Unleashed tube. Still, it delivers impressive volume and tremendous back pressure, allowing you to make the full spectrum of bugles, chuckles and grunts. This bugle comes with the EZ bugler and flared mouthpiece, so you can use the tube whether you can blow a diaphragm call or not. Another great feature is the full neoprene cover that looks good but, more importantly, keeps the bugle from making noise when clanked against your other equipment or brush.

The Phelps Signature AMP Elk Diaphragm is an excellent call for the experienced caller. This call isn’t quite as sensitive or easy to blow as some of the other Phelps calls, but when used by someone who knows how to use a diaphragm call, it can make fantastic elk sounds. I strongly recommend this call when you want to step up your game.

One of the more unique elk calls made in the past couple of years is the EZ SUK’R. This call is perfect for those who want to make subtle cow and calf noises but struggle to use diaphragm calls. This call can be used entirely hands-free and make cow sounds while you inhale on the call. It sounds a little strange saying that, but soon after you get your hands, or should I say mouth, on one, you will quickly see how easy this call is to use.

Born and Raised Call Company

If you don’t know who Born and Raised is, you likely don’t spend much time watching hunting videos online. The crew at Born and Raised get after the elk and have a good time doing it. A few years ago, they started making their line of game calls and are doing great with this venture.

They have been working hard perfecting their bugle tubes and have hit a home run with The Bomb Bugle Tube. This tube is 21 inches long, but incredibly weighs just 8.2 ounces. Still, the tube has thicker side walls for increased volume, and the Bomb Bass chamber creates low-end sounds that travel deep into the canyons to locate far-off bulls.

A new favorite diaphragm of mine has the perfect name: September. If you are a beginner, you might buy a different call in their lineup. If you are experienced, though, this call can make some of the loudest, most aggressive bugles possible due to its tighter stretch. You can also make most cow noises as well.

The easy-to-use Soundbite is an excellent open-reed call for users of all skill levels. This acrylic-bodied call has a J-Frame soundboard that’s easy to use, but also allows users to tune the sound to their personal preferences. Each call comes with three reeds and an extra band as well.

Slayer Calls

The newest manufacturer in this round-up is Slayer Calls. They may be a new company, but they aren’t strangers to calling and have brought plenty of experience and put it to work.

The ArchAngel Acrylic Elk Call is a big tube that means business. It only weighs 10.7 ounces, but packs a big punch when making loud elk sounds. The acrylic mouthpiece delivers smooth sounds to the large tube, producing a great final result.

The Endure (Green) diaphragm is made for intermediate or more advanced callers who want a call more tailored toward making a wide array of bugles, grunts and chuckles.

If you struggle to blow a mouth diaphragm, the Enchantress Push Elk Call is for you. By applying different pressure levels, you can make every elk sound there is. You can even screw it onto their tube for bugling in big bulls.

By Dave Genz

You can’t catch fish if you can’t find them. It’s as true in ice fishing as it is in open water.

There are two things most ice anglers have a lot of trouble with: choosing the right type of lake to fish during the ice-up period, and finding fish once the good “first-ice” bite slows down. Let’s address both of these issues in some depth: (Get it? Depth? Lots of fish go deep during the iced-over period?)

Choose The Right Lake At Early Ice

You should, simply put, fish smaller bodies of water early in the iced-over period. It’s often fairly easy to locate fish on smaller lakes, because it’s a high-percentage move to look in the deepest basin area. Many, if not most, of the fish in a smaller lake will spend the winter in the deepest basin, especially if there’s only one, and it’s significantly deeper than the rest of the lake.

The problem with many smaller lakes is that they develop an oxygen problem as winter wears on. Where those “small-lake” fish are in a biting mood at early ice, you return to those lakes later in the winter and often find no takers.

The fish are still there, of course (unless they suffer a die-off), but they are often severely stressed due to the low oxygen levels.

Bigger Lakes Stay Better Later Into The Season

We’re oversimplifying things here, but it’s generally true to say that larger bodies of water will hold better fishing later into the winter season.

One of the most difficult aspects of catching fish through the ice on larger bodies of water is finding them. With so much turf to search, you can feel lost before you even start. One clue is that you should always fish anywhere you drill a hole and find green weeds. As long as sunlight can penetrate the ice, weeds can actually grow, something many anglers don’t realize. But if you drop down your lure and come back with green weeds on the hook, make good notes on where you are.

Also, don’t just blindly follow the crowds. Many anglers, from past experience, know of good spots. And groups of fish houses pop up over these spots every winter.

Sometimes, even just getting off to the edge of the group of houses, off to the fringe of all the ruckus, can help you find fish that aren’t as “on guard.” Activity moves the fish, especially at midday.

One of my strategies is to go to the crowd of fish houses just to see what type of spot they’re fishing. Is it deep? Shallow? Hard or soft bottom? How close is it to really deep water? By studying the characteristics of the spot, you can often find similar spots by looking at a contour map of the lake, and get off to a new hot- spot that’s all yours.

Another hint: At “prime time,” when the sun is setting at the tree tops, fish often move right into those “community spots” where all the fish houses are. They are pressured and on guard, but they still return to that spot, because it’s where most of their food is in many cases.

Finding Fish At Midwinter

It’s probably tougher to locate fish at midwinter than any other ice-fishing period. Here are some high-percentage haunts, to shortcut the hunt:

Walleye-Classic midwinter walleye locations include deep edges of remaining green weed growth, and good-sized hard-bottom points and sunken humps. First find large expanses of deep basin water, then look for these structural elements close by. Fishing pressure will force walleye off the most obvious spots. Check around the perimeter of groups of anglers, even out over deep water. If you find stair-stepping dropoffs, fish each small “stair” or flat.

Northern Pike-Eating machines that bite good in winter. Sorry to be vague, but they can be anywhere the food is. If a bay is full of small panfish, tip-ups can take pike. But also look for them to drop relatively deeper as winter wears on. Check the outside weed edges, but pay special attention to deeper rock and other hard-bottomed areas near good-sized shallow food shelves.

Largemouth Bass-Often disinterested in feeding at this time of year. There are disagreements about winter movements. Considered by some, including me, to be roamers. By working shallow cover such as weeds or stumps you can catch some on small minnows, but don’t expect to catch a lot of largemouths very often at midwinter.

Smallmouth Bass-Generally, a much deeper midwinter fish, and more catchable, than largemouths. Smallies like expansive areas of rock or other relatively hard bottom, in “deep, but not too deep” zones from about 20-40 feet.

Yellow Perch-Notorious as bottom feeders, and midwinter is no exception. Keep those baits puffing up or sitting on bottom. They tend to be in deeper water, down to 40 feet or so. Don’t look on drop offs, but instead along the flats out from them. Perch feed on insects and larvae that live in the mud, and breaklines tend to be along harder bottom!

Bluegills and other Sunfish-“Where aren’t sunfish?” might be a better question. On some lakes, it won’t matter where you drill a hole; small sunnies will be there waiting. But in general, organic (mud) bottomed bays and flats the bigger the better hold the most consistent sunfish action. If the areas are close to deep water, so much the better.

If you’re willing to hunt for rod-benders, seek out the biggest areas of shallow or deep weed growth. Do your best to get away from the crowds, and be quiet in your approach. And even though sunfish, befitting their name, have a reputation as good daylight feeders, the twilight periods of dawn and dusk are prime big-fish times.

You’ll have to fish your specific water, because some lakes hold big sunfish shallow all winter. Heavy fishing pressure, though, can “cream off” most of the big bulls, making deeper weed- or mud-related fish a better bet. We’ve caught most of our biggest midwinter bluegills in deeper water lately. We look for mud and weeds in 20-30 feet, and sometimes even deeper than that.

Crappies-You will find some nice crappies in shallow flats areas, mixed in with sunfish. But many midwinter slabs are in deep water, often suspended. Look over the areas just away from deep weed edges, or edges of other cover.

Deep points, and deep inside turns, can hold concentrations of midwinter crappies. Searching vast areas of deep water can turn up big schools, but it’s a needle-in-the-haystack proposition.

First printed in 1995

Topo maps have a variety of applications, but when talked about in the hunting community it’s generally related to scouting where folks are using them to identify key terrain features. Whether you’re a new hunter or you have a few seasons under your belt, topo maps can seem a bit more intimidating than satellite imagery. However, if you want to hunt whitetail deer in hill country being able to read topo maps is a necessity. Once the very basics are understood it actually becomes quite easy to pick apart key topo features and really get solid visuals of what the real-life ground actually looks like. Once you can visualize, your digital scouting efforts will become much more cohesive with time spent burning boot leather.

Map basics

One of the very basics to reading any map is orientation. This topic is fairly controversial amongst my peer group and has caused more than it fair share of needless miles. Personally, I like to keep my North orientation on all maps facing up. It’s just the way I was taught as a kid, what I’ve seen most often throughout my career in construction, surveying, and has just been the norm throughout my circle of influence. This “North” orientation concept comes from the invention of the compass and understanding of magnetic north from early Europeans. Keeping a North orientation is probably most common but truth be told, there’s really no wrong or right. Whatever orientation used just needs to be consistent amongst communication.

So what is a topo map? A topographic map or sometimes referred to as an elevation map is simply a detailed two-dimensional representation of the Earth’s surface shown as a series of contour lines with each line having a different elevation. The association of elevation with the contour lines allows the reader to interpret the three-dimensional lay and vertical scale of the land.

Contour lines show elevation change and are used to measure the steepness/grade of terrain. Contour lines also signify key terrain features which will always be represented in a consistent manner. Understanding some steadfast rules of contour lines can help you become very efficient at digital scouting topo maps and provide insightful knowledge on how an animal may traverse the topography.

10 Rules of Contour Lines

• Every specific point on a contour line has the same EXACT elevation.
• Contour lines separate downhill from uphill.
• Contour lines do not touch EXCEPT at a vertical edge or cliff. Because each line carries a different elevation it is impossible to have two lines at one elevation.
• Every 5th line is darker in color and/or thicker. This is known as an INDEX line. Also, INDEX lines will usually carry an elevation number.
• Contour lines get closer together in steep terrain and farther apart on flat terrain. This is specifically important when looking for bench-type features in the hill country.
• Contour lines that close or form circles represent a hilltop or a depression.
• Closed depressions with no outlet have HACHURE marks on the downhill sides of the contour lines.
• Contour lines will make a V shape when crossing a valley or drainage. The V will always point uphill.
• Contour lines will make a V or U shape when coming off a ridge top. The V or U will always point downhill. Often times creating a what people refer to as a point and/or spur.
• Contour lines on the opposite sides of a ridge or valley occur in pairs.

Key Topo Features

You’ll find that the contour line rules above are related to some type of key terrain feature or features. To take those rules a step further lets put some correlation and context around whitetail hunting and show some visuals examples.

Ridge Tops

Tops are fairly easy to identify by either referencing index lines, closed circle, and/or parallel contour lines. Ridge tops are exactly what you’d think….the very top of a ridge. While ridge tops might not offer the most favorable hunting locations, there will typically be a sign there. From my experience, most of that is laid down during night time hours which shifts this feature into a scouting location for both boots on the ground and trail camera sets.

Ridge tops become extremely useful for access routes to and from stand locations. While understanding the big picture of the area (bedding structure, feeding locations, predominant wind directions, travel routes, etc) tops allow you clean access by keeping your scent cone blowing in nondeer areas.

Bottoms

Bottoms or valleys can be identified in the same way ridge tops are but with one addition, traditionally bottoms will have some type of water feature. Bottoms are a great place to look for a sign but again generally speaking most of it will be laid down during night hours. We generally look at these areas for general trail camera locations for the sole purpose of gathering an inventory of the local deer.

Bottoms can be extremely difficult to hunt due to swirling winds and thermal pools however it’s not entirely impossible. Given a zero wind day with high or rising barometric pressure they can be hunted with caution. Bottoms can also offer great access routes because you are able to visually and audibly keep yourself hidden.

Drainages

Drainages are exactly what they sound like….a drainage ditch coming off the hillside and are found in a variety of depths, steepness, and width. Drainages can be spotted on the topo as bends in the majority of the contour lines on the hill said. As the stated rule says above, this will create a V or U shape with the point leading uphill. Wider drainages will look more like a U and narrower drainages will look more like a V. Often times folks may refer to larger drainages as “draws”.

Drainages are one of my favorite features to mark on my map and then go scout. They can provide excellent hunting opportunities pending the sign is there. They not only create a barrier for animals to navigate but double as a pinch point as often you’ll find animals hug the very top of the drainage. They also offer great potential access to stand locations and thermal advantages for evening hunts.

The image above shows 3 different drainages obviously labeled as A,B, and C; each of which have distinct characteristics and advantages. Drainage A is your typical larger drainage that some might refer to as a draw. This might be an area to scout for the potential nighttime sign. Drainage B is smaller in relative profile yet much shorter/steeper than drainage A. This may bode well for access pending there is a sign there to hunt. Drainage C is actually several drainages in close proximity that creates a “bowl” in the hillside. This type of feature is important as the actual drainages and ridgetop reduces potential areas of animal travel creating several pinch points to scout.

Saddles

To whitetail hunters, a saddle is simply a low spot on a ridge top. Generally, it can be identified when contour lines are making a V or U shape off a ridge top that is pointing towards one another from two separate directions. This feature is important because it often provides the path of least resistance for animals to travel and creates a valuable pinch point.

In my opinion, nearly all saddles are at least worth taking a look at. What I’ve found over the last 5 years of hunting public land is that most majorly defined saddles like shown in the photo below will draw human attention, so don’t be afraid to look at saddles that are less subtle.

Points and Spurs

While the verbiage may differ from hunter to hunter, the importance of points/spurs remain the same. Points/Spurs are secondary ridges, usually short in relative length, that stem from the main ridge and are identified by a V or U shape pointing downhill.

For Whitetail hunters points/spurs are key features for a multitude of reasons. The first is that they often provide bedding opportunity for whitetails. These are also great areas to scout for deer trails and rub lines as whitetails will often travel vertical pending the steepness of the point. One advantage to hunting points or spurs is that the wind will generally be consistent once you understand the wind/air currents in the area.

Benches

If you’re unfamiliar with this term, a bench is just a relatively flat spot on a hillside. Benches are the hardest of these key features to identify consistently. The more easily seen benches are really just shown by contour lines spread out further in a specific area or elevations compared to the other contour lines of the hillside. With 20′ contour lines a bench can be less than 20′ wide without varying the distance between lines. These subtle benches can often be dynamite spots as they are typically overlooked but the downside is you will likely have to spend some time walking some of these prospected areas.

Benches allow deer to easily navigate hillsides without having to sidehill and also give whitetails a flat area to scrape on. Both great reasons to scout and run trail cameras on benches.

While this article should provide a plethora of knowledge and insight for folks of every map reading ability, don’t feel intimidated if some of this sounds foreign. Everyone has to have a starting point, but hopefully having resources like this and tools like OnX Hunt moves you along that learning curve a tad bit faster. For more helpful content on trail cameras, and hunting strategies be sure to check out the Exodus YouTube Channel and The Exodus Podcast.

Author: Chad Sylvester, Exodus Outdoor Gear Co-Founder/Owner

By Adam Parr

For the past few years, I’ve struggled to find elk antlers in the mountains of Colorado and quickly became frustrated with the lack of my success. One consistency I’ve come to realize over the past two seasons is that elk shed hunting is simply a different ball game. Comparatively to both whitetails and mule deer, elk antlers always seemed to elude me while deer antlers were relatively easy to find.

The entire purpose of my blog is to document my findings as I embrace a new lifestyle in a much more extreme terrain and environment. With that being said, I believe any midwestern whitetail hunter can have success in their first season shed hunting for mule deer because a lot of the same principles apply. Mule deer are found at lower elevations during the winter months, making them easier to pattern and are easily accessible. They seem to hold more of a consistent pattern for longer periods of time, while an elk herd has a much larger range and can be found in a completely different area from one day to the next.

Below are a few tips to help shorten your elk shed hunting learning curve and to get you on the fast track to finding brown gold!

Get Higher

No, I’m not making a 420 reference here; I’m talking elevation. As a general rule of thumb, the majority of mature bulls are going to be found at higher elevations than the smaller bulls and cows. Although mule deer and elk wintering areas will have some cross-over, most of the lower elevation elk sign will be cows and young bulls.

In areas of extreme snowfall and harsh winter conditions, even the herd bulls will get pushed down to lower elevations out of necessity to survive. The key thing to remember is that elk typically shed their antlers much later in the Spring than deer, so it is important to pay attention to snow accumulation. This past Winter, snowfall was heavy in December, January, and February but March and April were mild with very little accumulation. A mild Spring caused the elk to move back up to higher areas of the mountains during the time that the majority of shedding occurs.

Locate Secluded Basins

The key word here is seclusion. Bigger bulls and elk in general, prefer seclusion and will not tolerate human interaction, which is why you also find them at higher elevations. A great way to locate these areas is through the use of Google Earth, which shows the terrain features from a birds-eye view before ever stepping foot on the ground. Looking at maps prior to entering an area lets you visualize the terrain without wasting time and energy scouring areas that are unproductive.

Mule deer and cow elk will be found closer to roads and human traffic, but don’t be fooled by these visuals. Bull elk are seeking solidarity out of eyesight over the next mountain top.

Go Where The Grass Is

Much like livestock and cattle, elk require an average of 20 pounds of grass and browse vegetation to sustain themselves through a harsh Winter so it’s imperative to locate food. These large grassy meadows, which are predominately found on South facing slopes can be easily identified, once again from Google Earth. By keeping this information in mind, it will help you locate potential feeding areas that elk will utilize on a regular basis.

No matter how good a secluded basin looks at a high elevation, if it doesn’t have a plentiful amount of food, the elk will be nowhere in sight. This seems like common sense to many people but this is something I struggled with early on and I wasted a lot of hours searching areas that did not hold bulls or any elk, for that matter.

The Trifecta

If you want to start having serious success with elk sheds, locate the ultimate elk wintering area; A secluded basin, with an abundance of food at high-elevation. Once you find an area like this, the probability of it being a great spot year after year will be high. For some added advice, be sure to check out this quick video from Mark Kayser, Tips For Finding Elk Shed Antlers.

It is also important to be in very good physical shape if you want to attempt getting into secluded areas of elk country. The terrain is tough, the air is thin and the distance is far, but If you are willing to put in the work, shed antler success will follow.

For additional shed hunting tips and helpful information, be sure to check out 4 New School Tips For The Beginner Colorado Shed Hunter. Happy shed hunting!