Ask any five deer hunters what the best 308 ammo is for deer and you’ll likely get five different answers. The truth is, there are a lot of excellent deer hunting factory loads for 308 Winchester (308 Win for short) as the round is flat shooting, has amazing stopping power, and you have a wide variety of different bullet profiles to choose from.

However, if you want to ensure that you’re baking Bambi’s backstraps at deer camp instead of tracking blood trails for hours on end…Then you’ve found the right article!

Below you’ll find our top six favorite 308 Win deer hunting loads on the market for 2024. Although this is not a comprehensive list, these selections have proven time and time again to put the venison on your plate instead of bounding into the brush.

If you simply can’t wait, our favorite deer hunting round is Winchester Deer Season XP 150 gr Extreme Point. However, if you want the full list keep on scrolling or if you want to understand what makes for an amazing deer hunting cartridge, then check out our Buyer’s Guide HERE.

Quick Administrative Note: I know you’re ready for the top 6 list and it’s right below. This article is wholly focused on deer hunting, but if you’re looking for the best overall 308 Winchester ammo for hunting and target shooting, then check out this article: The Best 308 Ammo for Hunting and Target Shooting.

The Best 308 Ammo for Deer Hunting Top Picks

1. Winchester Deer Season XP 150 gr Extreme Point
2. Hornady Custom 150 gr SST
3. Black Hills Gold 168 gr TSX
4. Federal Premium 175 gr Terminal Ascent
5. Hornady Precision Hunter 178 gr ELD-X
6. Remington Core-Lokt 180 gr PSP

The Best .308 Ammo for Deer Hunting Overall

Winchester Deer Season XP 150 gr Extreme Point

Specs

• Casing: Brass
• Bullet Type: Extreme Point
• Bullet Weight: 150 gr
• Muzzle Velocity: 2,820 FPS
• Muzzle Energy: 2,648 FT-LBS

Pros

• Optimized polymer tip for ideal penetration and expansion
• Affordable
• Built specifically for deer hunting

Cons

• Results vary depending on the rifle

Why We Chose It

If you’re looking for a premium deer hunting round that has the terminal performance to stop a trophy whitetail or mule deer dead in its tracks, then look no further than Winchester Deer Season XP.

Winchester designed the Deer Season XP line of ammunition with the specific needs of deer hunters in mind. Descended from the legendary Winchester Power Point bullet, the Extreme Point 150-grain bullet offers deep penetration combined with wicked expansion to really quickly and ethically put down any trophy buck that wanders near your tree stand.

The secret to the Extreme Point’s effectiveness is tied to its aerodynamic polymer tip. Not only does it protect the oversized hollow point during chambering, but the tip also initiates expansion immediately when it encounters soft tissue.

This puts down deer fast so long as your shot placement is on point, and with its low price point you’ll have more than enough opportunity to get out to the range and practice those long-range hunting shots.

When you combine all of these qualities together, the result is more venison in your freezer, an amazing rack of antlers on your wall, and a story to tell your hunting buddies that you’ll never forget. And if you want that, then make sure your bolt-action deer hunting rifle is loaded with Winchester Deer Season XP 150 Extreme Point ammo this fall!

Hornady Custom 150 gr SST

Specs

• Casing: Brass
• Bullet Type: Super Shock Tip
• Bullet Weight: 150 gr
• Muzzle Velocity: 2,820 FPS
• Muzzle Energy: 2,648 FT-LBS

Pros

• Loaded with Hornady’s reputation for quality
• Excellent weight retention and terminal performance
• Availability

Cons

• More expensive than Winchester

Why We Chose It

If you plan on hunting medium-sized game and want a round with a flat trajectory and devastating terminal performance, then Hornady Custom 150 gr SST ammo is what you need for your next hunt.

The Hornady SST combines everything hunters love from Hornady’s groundbreaking Interlock Soft Point design and integrates it into a hollow point projectile with a polymer tip to initiate expansion. Upon impact the tip is forced into the hollow point to initiate expansion. delivering tremendous shock to a whitetail and creating a massive wound channel that can put a deer down fast.

The SST bullet utilizes an aerodynamic secant ogive bullet profile for a flatter trajectory, tapered jacket for deep penetration, and the patented Hornady Interlock ring that locks the lead core to the jacket and thereby increasing weight retention.

All in all, the Hornady Custom 150 gr SST is an incredibly close runner-up to our top pick and is only supplanted due to a slightly higher price point. However, given Hornady’s outstanding reputation for loading incredibly accurate and deadly ammo, a slightly higher price is easily justified when you want to make sure that trophy buck ends up on your wall.

Black Hills Gold 168gr TSX

Specs

• Casing: Brass
• Bullet Type: Triple-Shock X
• Bullet Weight: 168 gr
• Muzzle Velocity: 2,650 FPS
• Muzzle Energy: 2,619 FT-LBS

Pros

• Great quality and reputation
• High velocity for its weight
• Triple-Shock X bullet offers excellent expansion and penetration

Cons

• It’s pricey, but it’s also spicy

Why We Chose It

When shooters talk about Black Hills ammo, phrases like “incredibly accurate”, “extremely consistent”, and “excellent terminal ballistics” are commonplace. The Black Hills Gold 168 gr TSX holds true to this legacy and is unquestionably a deer hunting round that should be on your short list to pickup this fall.

Although this offering from Black Hills is firing a heavier bullet than our first two selections, it still maintains a high muzzle velocity and flat trajectory desired for those long range shots.

The Barnes TSX bullet is the heart of this Black Hills Gold factory load, providing unparalleled stopping power and accuracy that is stops whitetail, black bears, feral hogs, and any other 4-legged varmint dead in their tracks.

Machined from a solid piece of copper, Triple-Shock X bullets utilize a traditional hollow point bullet that offers exceptional penetration and expansion that’s needed when taking on big game animals. And as the bullet is lead-free to boot, which means it’s legal for use in states like California.

If you’re familiar with Barnes Bullets and the TSX, you’ll know that it is the big brother to their newer model, the TTSX (Tipped Trippe-Shock X) bullets. Both are excellent hunting bullets, but Black Hills opted to go with the classic model and who can blame them?

We know a lot of people talk about the price of the Black Hills Gold TSX, but when you consider you’re getting an average of 60 pounds of meat for $3, and you don’t have to spend hours tracking an injured Cervidae, it’s more than worth it!

Federal Premium 175 gr Terminal Ascent

Specs

• Casing: Nickel-Plated Brass
• Bullet Type: Terminal Acent
• Bullet Weight: 175gr
• Muzzle Velocity: 2,600 FPS
• Muzzle Energy: 2,627 FT-LBS

Pros

• Bonded construction for high weight retention
• High ballistic coefficient for long range shots
• Designed for excellent expansion at high and low velocity

Cons

• You pay for performance

Why We Chose It

The Federal Terminal Ascent is not only one of the heavier bullets on our list, but it’s an exquisitely designed, polymer-tipped, and high-quality round that feeds well. The nickel-plated brass makes for smooth chambering, and the bonded lead core helps the projectile retain its weight on impact.

Federal designed the Terminal Ascent with its patented Slipstream polymer tip to give the bullet a flatter trajectory (because accuracy is important), but it also helps with low-velocity expansion.

Capable of taking big game animals like elk and caribou, the Federal Premium 175 gr Terminal Ascent is more than capable of taking down any whitetail or mule deer that crosses your path.

This Federal Premium hunting ammo is one deer hunting round that you don’t want to miss when it’s in stock even though it’s a little pricey. But as Federal says on their website regarding Terminal Ascent, “Any hunt. Any range.” And that is performance most hunters are willing to shuck out a few extra shekels for!

Hornady Precision Hunter 178 gr ELD-X

Specs

• Casing: Brass
• Bullet Type: Extremely Low Drag – Expanding
• Bullet Weight: 178 gr
• Muzzle Velocity: 2,600 FPS
• Muzzle Energy: 2,672 FT-LBS

Pros

• Match-grade accuracy and reliability
• Backed by Hornady’s reputation and consistency
• High ballistic coefficient for long-range shots

Cons

• Heavier bullet weight
• Heavier price tag

Why We Chose It

Any competitive shooter will tell you that match ammo is excellent for long range precision shooting, but any hunter will also tell you that match-grade ammo isn’t ethical for hunting deer (or any game, for that matter). Hornady solved this issue by taking the best qualities of their match ammo and combined it with an expanding bullet to create one of the most deadly hunting bullets ever made.

The Hornady ELD-X is one of the top long-range hunting bullets on the market, walking in the same circles as long-time standbys like the Accubond Long Range or Berger VLD.

The Hornady ELD-X integrates many of the same qualities as the SST, which was our #2 pick earlier in this article. It utilizes the Interlock system to keep the lead core and jacket of the bullet intact during expansion as well as a smooth, sleek design with a high ballistic coefficient for long-range accuracy.

Hornady combined their highly concentric AMP bullet jacket technology with their equally impressive Heat Shield tip to create a bullet that is not only streamlined but also extremely deadly.

Although Hornady Precision Hunter ammo is extremely accurate and effective against large game animals, it also carries a price tag to match that performance. However, as most hunters aren’t spending the weekend plinking with their hunting rifle and only need a few boxes of ammo per year, that price tag is well worth the added performance Hornady Precision Hunter 178 gr ELD-X offers.

Remington Core-Lokt 180 gr PSP

Specs

• Casing: Brass
• Bullet Type: Pointed Soft Point (PSP)
• Bullet Weight: 180 gr
• Muzzle Velocity: 2,743 FPS
• Muzzle Energy: 2,620 FT-LBS

Pros

• Affordable and Effective
• Easy to find
• Trusted by generations to bring home the venison

Cons

• Not as accurate as some premium rounds

Why We Chose It

The Remington Core-Lokt 180 gr PSP is the closest thing you’ll get to your Grandpa’s favorite hunting rounds. You don’t get a lot of bells and whistles with these hunting cartridges, but they hit hard and simply get the job done.

Remington designed the Core-Lokt in the late 1930s and has been one of the flagship hunting cartridges for the company ever since. Although it may not be as sleek or accurate as an ELD-X, but the Core-Lokt simply slaps and can easily fell a deer with one bullet with good shot placement.

Combine all this with a price tag every hunter can afford, there’s no way that we couldn’t include this classic big game hunting round.

Parting Shots

The 308 Win has a long and storied history of being an extremely accurate and effective deer hunting round. Picking the best 308 ammo for deer is always something that is a little bit subjective, but if you pick any of the rounds on our top 6 list, we promise you won’t be disappointed.

No matter your preference, do keep in mind that ammo goes fast especially when the leaves start to change colors. When you see a few boxes available, grab them up and put them away for deer season.

You can click HERE to go back to the top of our list or scroll down to our buyer’s guide to learn more about choosing .308 ammo for hunting.

The Best 308 Ammo For Deer Buyer’s Guide

Welcome to our .308 Winchester for deer hunting buyer’s guide! In this section, we’ll review some tips to help you pick out your next favorite deer-hunting bullet. We also have tips to help you pick your next favorite .308 ammo for other hunting and shooting activities.

.308 Winchester Deer Hunting Bullet Types Explained

Finding good deer hunting ammo is pretty easy when you know what to look for. When I first started buying deer hunting ammo (many years ago), I picked up whatever box was cheap and had a picture of a deer on it (let’s be honest, that’s great marketing). Now, as an avid hunter, one of the first things I look at is the bullet type and design.

Bullets react with their targets in different ways depending on their composite and design (this is called terminal ballistics). For example, you’ve probably heard of FMJs (Full Metal Jackets). These rounds have a soft lead core covered with a thin jacket (typically copper), and they’re most useful for target shooting and plinking because they are inexpensive.

FMJ ammo is great for a fund day at the range, but they don’t expand on impact when they impact soft tissue. Despite the muzzle velocity, trajectory, and ballistic coefficient, these bullets aren’t going to create a wound channel sufficient enough to ethically take down large to medium sized game like whitetail deer or feral hogs.

Now you might think that hollow point bullets are the way to go for deer hunting, but this is also a misconception. Although jacketed hollow points are excellent for self-defense handgun ammo, they simply aren’t great for deer hunting. Most hollow point rifle bullets are match-grade (like the Sierra Matchking) and designed for long range shooting and accuracy.

Accuracy is definitely important when you line up your sights on a trophy buck. But since match ammo doesn’t offer any advantages in terminal ballistics over FMJ ammo, they simply aren’t appropriate for deer hunting.

So, the only suitable hunting ammo types are bullets that reliably expand when they encounter a big game animal. These bullets types include Soft Points, Polymer Tips, SSTs (Super Shock Tip), ballistic tips, PSP (pointed soft point), or something like the Nosler Partition.

.308 Deer Hunting Rifle and Ammo Tips

Rifle selection is an important part of deer hunting, as you need to make sure that your rifle can deliver your hunting bullets to where they need to go.

You don’t need the hottest hunting rifle on the market to put down big game, regardless of what the kind salesperson behind the gun counter tells you. Your great uncle’s Ruger Hawkeye bolt-action rifle, Granddad’s sketchy Henry 30-30 lever action rifle (speaking from experience here), or the hottest semi-automatics can all equally put deer on your kitchen table.

No matter your rifle preference, there are some things that you should know about finding the perfect cartridge to drop a mule deer on the spot.

As mentioned previously, you’ll want to get out to the range before deer season. Most factory loads (and even hand loads) perform differently depending on the rifle. These variations are further exacerbated by varying twist rates and casings.

If you love to hunt, you should love to go target shooting too. Shot placement is just as important as terminal ballistics, so pick up a few boxes of .308 ammo from different manufacturers, and get out to the range to find out which ones are most accurate in your chosen hunting rifle.

Naturally, you’ll also want to keep your rifle clean and in good working order. A rifle you don’t take care of will not take care of you (or any wild game hunting). This tip also includes taking great care of your scope (hence, also getting out to the range).

Another thing to consider when using the .308 Winchester for deer hunting is distance. The options listed above tend to perform well within 400 yards. But before you take those long-range shots, ensure your rifle and ammo will perform adequately.

Different cartridges will have different effective ranges when it comes to deer hunting. Rounds like the 30-06 Springfield and 6.5 Creedmoor have different trajectories and terminal performance compared to the 308 Win, so it’s important to understand your rifle, cartridge, and their capabilities before you ever set foot in the woods.

Frequently Asked Questions

There’s a lot that goes into hunting, ammo, and your rifle. If we didn’t cover all of your burning questions above, hang out with us for a few more minutes, and we’ll answer your most frequently asked questions.

Is this .308 ammo good for bears too?

The .308 Winchester is an excellent cartridge for black bear and is more effective than handguns for bear defense. There are multiple rounds that are effective against black bear like the Barnes VOR-TX or Nosler’s Accubond that are perfectly suited if you actively choose to pick a fight with Baloo.

Is there a difference between the .308 Norma Magnum and the .308 Winchester?

Yes, the .308 Norma Magnum uses a 338 Win Mag case necked down to fire a .30 caliber projectile. Essentially, the 308 Norma Magnum has a larger case and is more powerful than the .308 Winchester.

What does a boat tail do?

A boat tail helps a bullet reduce drag, giving it a flatter trajectory and making it less susceptible to wind deflection. This makes the bullet more aerodynamic and increases the ballistic coefficient.

Can I use the 5.56 NATO or .223 for deer hunting?

Many states prohibit the use of 5.56 NATO or 223 Remington for deer hunting. However, the bullets like a Federal Fusion or Trophy Bonded can be effective against deer when fired from a 223.

Can I buy .308 Winchester deer hunting ammo in bulk?

Absolutely! If you want to stock up, we have a lot of bulk .308 Winchester ammo available. Look for the Soft Point, PSP, or Winchester Power Point.

Back to the Best .308 Deer Hunting Ammo

Now that you have a better understanding of the .308 Winchester and the best deer-hunting ammo click HERE to go back to our favorite 308 deer hunting cartridges!

At Mid-Valley Clays & Shooting School, we take pride in providing family-friendly shooting experiences that bring loved ones together in the great outdoors. Clay shooting isn’t just a sport; it’s a chance for families to bond, create memories, and share the thrill of hitting targets as a team. In this blog, we invite families to discover the joy of clay shooting at our Gervais, Oregon shooting school, conveniently located only 35 minutes outside of Portland and 21 minutes from Salem.

1. An Adventure for All Ages: Clay shooting is an inclusive sport that can be enjoyed by family members of all ages. From young teens to grandparents, everyone can participate and have a blast at our shooting range. Our experienced instructors are here to guide beginners, ensuring that everyone feels comfortable and confident on the shooting line.

2. Safety First, Always: The safety of our guests is our top priority, especially when families are involved. Our shooting school has strict safety protocols in place, and our instructors will brief you on all safety measures before you begin. You can rest assured that we provide a safe and controlled environment for your family’s shooting adventure.

3. Quality Time Outdoors: Clay shooting takes you away from screens and technology, allowing your family to reconnect with nature and each other. Spend quality time outdoors, breathing in the fresh air, and appreciating the beautiful surroundings of our Gervais, Oregon shooting range.

4. Friendly Competition and Teamwork: Clay shooting creates friendly competition and fosters teamwork among family members. Root for each other’s success, celebrate every successful shot, and share in the excitement of hitting those flying targets together.

5. Life Skills and Focus: Clay shooting not only enhances shooting skills but also teaches valuable life skills, such as focus, discipline, and patience. As shooters step onto the range, they enter an environment that demands unwavering attention to detail and a calm, composed mind. Whether it’s analyzing the trajectory of a clay target, mastering proper shooting techniques, or adapting to various shooting scenarios, sport shooting cultivates mental acuity and sharpens concentration.

Participating in clay shooting at Mid-Valley Clays & Shooting School challenges individuals to set goals, measure progress, and practice perseverance. Shooters learn to overcome challenges and accept both successes and setbacks with grace. The sport instills a sense of responsibility, as safety protocols must always be observed and adhered to during shooting sessions.

Beyond the shooting range, these life skills translate into personal and professional endeavors. Focus and concentration become powerful tools for success in various aspects of life, whether it’s academic achievements, work performance, or managing daily challenges. The discipline cultivated on the range reinforces dedication and commitment in all pursuits, making clay shooting a transformative experience that enriches lives beyond the sport itself.

By embracing sport shooting as a means to foster essential life skills, participants not only enjoy an exciting and rewarding hobby but also prepare themselves for success in life’s diverse journeys.

Sport shooting at Mid-Valley Clays & Shooting School offers an array of benefits that extend beyond the sport. From promoting camaraderie to enhancing physical and mental well-being, and fostering valuable life skills, clay shooting is an activity that continues to capture the hearts of enthusiasts and newcomers alike. As you embark on your clay shooting journey at our Gervais, Oregon shooting range, you’re bound to find an experience that is both exhilarating and transformative. Whether you’re aiming to improve your shooting prowess, bond with family and friends, or simply enjoy the thrill of hitting clay targets under the wide Oregon sky, Mid-Valley Clays has something to offer everyone. So, grab your shotgun, bring your enthusiasm, and join us for an unforgettable clay shooting adventure. Let’s aim high and shatter expectations together!

The perfect coyote bait pile is a marvelous tool for coyote hunters. Set up correctly, a coyote bait pile will lure in and hold coyotes exactly where you want them, convince them to consume the bait, and give you all the time you need to take your shot.

Coyote bait pile essentials: Bait, location, and time.

Your success baiting coyotes will depend on using the right bait in the right location and patiently waiting for the magic to happen.

Want to know when coyotes are the most active and most likely to show up at your bait pile or respond to your calls? Check out my article.

Looking for a great book on how to call in a coyote? Check out Andrew Lewand’s book below. This book answers the most frequently asked question on the internet… What sounds are working right now? No matter which brand of call you use, the sequences in each chapter with boost your success rate!

The right bait.

Honestly, nothing beats a deer carcass. It’s what coyotes expect to find dead of natural causes (or gunshot wounds) in the woods and fields. Indeed, it’s often discovered split open and mangled alongside the roadway. They consume it regularly and are naturally drawn to the familiar odor of its decay.

There may be other baits, and they may work, but deer meat is the superior choice.

The perfect location.

Simply put, a coyote bait pile tucked just inside a woodline that provides the coyote with a sense of cover but is actually a shooting lane with you on the other end is the perfect location.

We’ll discuss how to set up this location later, but you can get a basic idea from this image.

That’s far enough away to help you beat a coyote’s amazing senses.

All the time it needs.

The last piece of your perfect coyote bait pile is time. Time for the pile to ripen. Time for the pile to be found.

During the days and weeks after you have placed your bait, you will be sorely tested. Doubt will creep in and disturb your resolve. “Did I use enough meat?” “Is the pile too well hidden?”

Make a solemn vow as you walk away from your perfectly baited and placed pile. A vow to never, for any reason, disturb it. It’s a test of faith in yourself and the quality of the work you have done.

Avoid the temptation to commit the only unforgivable sin of baiting coyotes: Spilling fresh human scent on it.

Getting deer for your coyote bait pile.

There are three ways to get deer for your coyote bait pile. Here they are arranged in order of easiest to hardest.

From deer hunters.

If you hunt deer, you know a lot of flesh doesn’t get packed into freezer bags. So this season, let your deer hunting friends know you’d love to take home their scraps.

You can make a suitable sized coyote bait pile from a single butchered deer using the Baitsicle Method discussed later.

Deer processors.

Deer cutters, especially those who butcher your deer, are often more than willing to let you take as much of their waste as you can carry.

Brings some buckets and heavy duty contractor bags with you.

Roadkill.

I hesitate even to mention this method of collecting bait. However, because it is legal in some states, I’ll take the time to layout the easiest way to secure enough carrion from roadkill, but check your local laws and be very damn careful. A bad night could end with you being roadkill.

First of all, you only need one deer to make a coyote bait pile. You do not need 300 pounds, no matter what someone tells you. 50-75 pounds is perfect and will last the whole season.

Secondly, a doe in the back of your truck brings a lot less attention than a buck with a big rack in the back of your vehicle—police attention, that is. The law may be on your side, but you still could get arrested by a suspicious officer and have to spend money defending yourself. A dead doe is a tragedy. A dead eight-pointer is a trophy. Consider yourself warned.

Roadkill tips.

Collecting roadkill is a significant job. You have to drive around sparsely traveled back roads (never attempt recovery on major routes), racking up quite a few miles before you’ll come across anything of value. Once you spot a possible candidate, I suggest you consider a few points before proceeding.

Is it in a safe location for collection after dark? At night, you’ll be able to collect when the traffic flow is at its lowest point. You will also be able to hear vehicles approaching and see their oncoming headlights. Night-time recoveries draw less attention from the general public, too. Think fewer 911 calls. After dark, you’ll have fewer flies to deal with, and you won’t have to drive off a murder of crows. However, a flashlight is required so you can be assured Mr. Bear isn’t already seated at the Roadside Cafe himself.

Is the carcass relatively intact? If the stomach is burst, the deer severely mangled or already badly rotted, take a hard pass on it. Lifting a dead deer into the back of a truck by yourself is a nightmare, to begin with. Don’t add to your impending misery by trying to handle anything dead for too long.

Bring rain gear. Never, ever recover roadkill in anything you’ll want to wear again. There’s just no way to do it without getting bloody and stinky. So bring a rain suit and gloves with you.

A bit of rope will ease (some) of your pain. Without a rope, your best bet is to grab the head, sit on your tailgate, and use your legs to push yourself backward as you lift the deer over the back of the truck. You’ll find another way to get deer for your bait pile next year.

If you have rope, you can tie up the head, stand on your tailgate, and lift and pull the head up and over the end of the truck. When you can grab the legs, you should be able to walk backward and pull the rest of the deer into the truck.

Types of coyote bait piles.

Baitsicles

The baitsicle is my favorite coyote bait pile for four reasons; easy to transport, requires the least amount of baiting material, draws repeated visits, and can be placed in nearly every type of location.

How to make a baitsicle.

You’ll need one five-gallon pail, 10 feet of rope, enough bloody deer scraps to fill 75% of the bucket, a hammer (to break the bucket if the bait sticks to it), and access to water.

Start by placing a few inches of meat on the bottom of the pail. Now, coil at least a foot-long section of rope on top of the flesh and cover the coil with more scraps. Next, slowly add water, making sure the meat holds the rope down. Once your bucket is about half full, you can add the rest of your bait, top off the water, and allow it to freeze.

Pro tip: Bloody is best. The pinker your water, the better. For an example of how bloody; check out these photos of how coyote trappers make their baitsicles.

Correctly done, you should have about 6 feet of leftover rope. You will use this to drag your baitsicle and anchor it in the field.

The baitsicle will weigh over 50 lbs, but frozen, it should be easy to pull over snow and rugged enough to survive being dragged over open terrain.

During each thaw and refreeze, more bait will be exposed for the coyotes to lick and gnaw on, providing each coyote with just enough to encourage repeated visits.

Pro tip: Drag your baitsicle around. You’ll leave a scent trail everywhere you go that leads predators directly to your bait.

Wait, do you live where the eastern coyote roams? Then you need to check out my article on Killing Giants.

Hay bales or compost piles in open fields.

A compost pile in an open area is an insect and rodent luxury apartment. Over time, it will attract more and more predators like foxes and coyotes.

You can use a hay bale to create a min-compost pile for less than $20. So, don’t worry if you don’t own a farm or have access to large amounts of compost.

To begin, I’ll assume you are both reading this before the summer has ended, and you want to make a one-of-a-kind coyote bait pile with live rodents that even squeaks for you.

Your first step is picking up one or more 50 lbs compressed blocks of hay from a local supply store. Make sure you get hay, not straw. Mice and voles (your real coyote bait) love to nest in and eat hay.

Once you have selected a place to set your hay coyote bait pile, chop a hole about half the size of the bale and 6-10 inches deep.

Note: The smell of freshly disturbed earth often draws the attention of foxes and predators, so be prepared to hunt this spot shortly.

Fill the hole with corn and flip the bale over on top of it. Over time, the corn will be found by rodents, who will consume it and use the hay bale for nesting in and also feast on. Their movements, scent, and occasional squeaks will act as a living coyote bait pile that also draws in plenty of foxes.

Compost piles for coyote baiting.

A compost pile that features pine shavings or other bedding materials taken from chicken coops and duck houses will often contain an ungathered egg and uneaten food pellets. This waste material will quickly draw insects and other scavengers. Fox and coyote are never far behind. This type of compost pile is a predator magnet, and therefore, a hazard if kept too close to livestock. I’ve seen predators visit my compost pile several times a week all year long.

Using cages for baiting coyotes.

Dead chickens, squirrels, and other small mammals placed in cages and secured to the site create mini coyote bait piles. Leave them uncovered, and you’ll be surprised how many critters stop by to check out the bait.

Pro tip: Hay bale, compost, and cage coyote bait piles work best in open, mowed fields that make good habitat for rodents.

Want to know what calls coyotes and foxes respond to the most? Is there a magic sequence other hunters use to bag coyotes? Read my article on calls here to find out the best calls.

The best location for a coyote bait pile.

The absolute best place for a coyote bait pile is just inside a woodline.

Set the pile 5-10 yards inside the woods and about 100 yards from your shooting location. You want your bait far enough in to calm the coyotes and give them a sense of cover. However, don’t go too far, as you’ll double or triple the amount of site preparation you’ll need to create a clear shooting lane.

Looking at the bait pile from your shooting stand, you should have just wide enough of a window to see any coyotes when they are within 25 feet from either side of the pile—this is also the perfect range for night shooting using the best thermal scope for new predator hunters.

Set the bait inside the middle of your shooting window and secure it to prevent movement by the coyotes. You can use a sapling but avoid wide tree trunks that could obstruct your view of the target or interfere with the path of your shot.

And don’t worry about ropes, tie-down stakes, or other exposed equipment used to secure the bait—it will lose any scent and be ignored by curious coyotes.

If you can’t secure your bait to an object, consider using an earth anchor.

Pro tip: Deerskins serve multiple purposes, so save them and wrap your pile in them. The skins help convince the coyotes, and the frozen flesh helps protect the bait pile.

Add a camera to your coyote bait pile.

A cellular game camera will let you know when your pile is being visited and, more importantly, by whom. While it can be used as a real-time burglar alarm or help you pattern the visits being made, it does have a few easily fixable drawbacks.

1. It can spook coyotes. Even the faintest glow of the shutter’s IR light or softest click can make a coyote bolt. Most won’t go more than a few yards away before returning, but if it happens every time they near the pile, it could drive them off permanently. The fix here? Set the timer to allow no more than one photo every 5 minutes.
2. The cold can sap cheap batteries. It cant be said too often; set your pile and never go back to it except to pick up a dead coyote. Use high-quality lithium batteries where appropriate.
3. Squirrels, birds, and even mice will set off the camera too. You usually get a package deal with cellular cameras. These deals can give you 100 to 200 free photos a month. If you are not careful, they will all be daytime photos of crows and nighttime images of mice racing around your set. To avoid this, reduce the camera’s sensitivity. Going from high sensitivity to medium setting should help, but even at the lowest setting will pick up coyotes and foxes.
4. Your camera will need as clear and unobstructed shot. Set it at the right height and make sure any branches, brush, or twigs are cleared out of the way. Also, make sure to remove anything the wind may move around—a single twig can send many false alarms to your phone.

Where is the absolute best place to shoot a coyote? Don’t know? Then read this article on where to place your round to put a coyote down.

Scatter free meals to add confidence when coyote baiting.

No matter which coyote bait pile method you use, scattering some morsels around the pile will help make the coyote feel more confident when reaching the actual pile.

Deer scraps are fine, but confidence strips that include “fishy” treats, like shrimp, add a tempting scent that has often set my bait piles on fire, luring predators in much faster than deer-only sets. If you are afraid that coyotes won’t come to your bait pile because they’ve been shot at them before, read my, The Truth About Educated Coyotes article.

If your coyote bait will sitting in an area with heavy snow, I recommend using a coyote lure you can smear on tree limbs and other items that won’t get buried under the snow and ice.

Dunlap’s Hellfire Long Call Smear is skunk in a bottle. It works every season for me, even though I’ve never even seen a skunk where I hunt. Great stuff!

Now, stay away from you coyote bait pile.

Once your bait and camera are set, don’t go near it again, except to recover a downed animal. Let it quietly sit for as long as it takes to start attracting coyotes. Look, it may be two weeks before you see activity, but worrying you haven’t set the pile upright and trying to rework it or add bait to it will only splash new doses of your scent all over the place. Just be patient. If there are coyotes around, they will find your pile.

There is only one other reason to get anywhere near your coyote bait pile, heavy snow. While the stench always finds a way to work itself up and out of even the heaviest snowfalls, you can reduce the time it takes for coyotes to find it.

It’s time for a short snowmobile ride! From the road closest to your pile, start near one end of the field and use your snowmobile to create a nice curvy path. Then, hug the edge of the woodline and cut back to the road at the opposite end of the field. Plowed roads get heavy predator travel in rural areas. But, if they find an easy way to scout inside a field quickly, they will take it.

If you don’t have a sled, snowshoes will work just as well, especially after the deer have helped break the trail even more for you.

Interested in a quick course on how to track a wounded coyote? Read this article on how to track a wounded predator.

Who is visiting your coyote bail pile?

There are two types of coyotes you’ll catch visiting your bait pile; residents and transients.

Residents consider the location your placed your bait pile in to be their territory. They’ll visit it more than once. They will make their approach less cautiously. Their visits will last longer, they’ll eat more, and they will stay closer to the pile while resting.

Transients are coyotes in search of their territory. Transients get treated and act like trespassers. They will be very cautious during each approach. Their heads will be on swivels, and they will be quick to grab a bite and retreat a pace before consuming what they caught. The single click of a game camera can drive them away, perhaps for good.

If you set the pile up to remove unwanted local coyotes, there’s no need to worry you will attract coyotes from other more distant areas.

https://www.mossyoak.com/our-obsession/blogs/deer/deer-carcass-disposal-how-why-and-why-not

Calling near a coyote bait pile can increase your success.

Calling near your coyote bait pile is a great idea. Even if your stand is empty, there’s a good chance you’ll catch a late-arriving coyote. Coyotes that finally show up to investigate the source of your calls will poke around and possibly discover your bait pile.

If you are targeting hungry coyotes, check out https://thepredatorhunter.com/how-to-master-the-best-closed-reed-coyote-call/.

You can also call near bait that has already been found and partially consumed. A simple coyote vocalization may bring a resident coyote back to defend its food source in these situations.

A bit of effort, but nothing beats a perfect coyote bait pile.

A perfect coyote bait pile takes some scouting, planning, and waiting-but it yields unbelievable results. So start your planning today, and reap your harvest during the next coyote hunting season.

Today I’ve got something really exciting to share…

A Complete Guide To Researching & Using A Fire Piston

Because when it comes to survival, making fire is one of the most important.

But some fire starting devices are better than others.

And fire pistons are an excellent back up option!

But only IF you own a good one and know how to use it…

TOPICS IN THIS GUIDE… ↓(click to jump)

• Best Fire Pistons On The Market
• What’s A Compression Fire?
• Science: How Fire Pistons Work
• How To Use A Fire Piston
• Best Tinder’s To Use With It
• How To Make A Your Own
• Why You Should Own One

Want a free FireHawk Tactical Flashlight?

Click here now to access this limited time offer, just cover the small shipping & handling fee.

Best Fire Pistons For Sale Today

Let’s now look at a few of the best fire pistons on the market today.

I want to show you various types, styles and prices to choose from:

↓ Hickory Piston Review

↓ PSKOOK Piston Fire Starter

↓ Wilderness Solutions FireStarter Piston

↓ SXTL Compression Fire Starter Review

What Is A Compression Fire Starter?

It’s a proven fire-starting device that’s been around for hundreds of years.

It an ancient device of Southeast Asian origin.

Today, it’s also called a fire piston, fire syringe, or slam rod fire starter.

They use the fundamental laws of physics to heat and ignite a piece of tinder.

The design is simple – there are only two parts!

1. It consists of a hollow cylinder.
2. And a piston rod.

The first is a hollow cylinder with a smooth interior and an air-tight circular seal.

The cylinder size can range from a few inches in length and less than 1/2” wide to the size of a bicycle tire pump.

The second part is a piston rod that’s a fraction smaller in diameter than the cylinder.

It’s also about an inch longer.

The piston rod includes a small cavity for the tinder to sit.

It also has an airtight rubber o-ring seal on one end and a comfortable handle on the opposite end.

These parts can be made out of nearly any material.

However, metal and plastic are the most common nowadays.

That’s because they allow for incredibly smooth surfaces.

Smooth surfaces are essential for a very tight seal between the two parts.

The piston rod must be tight to the cylinder walls to prevent air from escaping.

This tight tolerance between the cylinder and the rod is what creates the magic.

Want a free 54 item survival gear checklist?

Click here to instantly download this Complete Checklist PDF. No purchase necessary.

How Compression Fires Starters Work

They work on the principle of the Ideal Gas Law.

If this sounds familiar, you heard about it in high school chemistry or physics class.

The Ideal Gas Law defines the relationship between pressure, volume, and temperature.

The basic premise is this:

For a given amount of a gas (i.e., air), quickly compressing it to a smaller volume results in a dramatic increase in both pressure and temperature.

This can result in a spike in the air temperature of over 400deg F.

Plenty of heat to instantly ignite a fine piece of tinder without a spark!

If this seems far-fetched, it’s not.

It’s the same law of physics that allows diesel engines to work.

↓ Fire Piston Demonstration

How To Use A Fire Piston

Using this simple survival tool is simple in concept but takes some practice to master.

↓ Piston Fire Starter

First, take the time to create a nest of burning tinder and small kindling.

This is where you’ll put the ember produced by the tube once it’s lit.

So ensure it’s easy to reach and have all the fire fuel ready before you begin.

There’s nothing worse than running out of fuel just as your fire starts to take off.

Next, place a small amount of tinder in the cavity on the front of the piston.

Don’t pack it in there, as it needs exposure to air to heat and combust.

If you pack it too tightly, it’ leaves no room for air to comingle with the tinder.

Start the piston into the cylinder, but don’t compress it too far.

Just enough to hold it in place should be fine.

Brace the cylinder against a solid object and grab the handle.

Now, quickly push the piston in, compressing the air and (hopefully) lighting your tinder.

Once the air is compressed, getting it out of the cylinder fast is important.

The tinder needs immediate fresh air – before the oxygen is consumed and the ember dies out.

So as soon as the piston reaches the bottom of the cylinder, pull it back out just as rapidly.

So in and out FAST!

Now quickly transfer the tiny ember into the fine tinder’s nest.

Once it’s transferred, gently fan it (or blow on it) to encourage the flames to grow.

If you’re successful, work up to a larger fire with kindling.

Practice all these motions until they’re smooth and consistent.

Soon you’ll master it and increase your efficiency and success.

Pro Tip: Using a dab of Petroleum Jelly in your tinder bundle can help, if your struggling.

↓ How To Use A Piston For Fire

Best Tinder To Use

While a piston fire starter can reach high temperatures, it can only maintain them for a very short time.

This means that easily lit tinder work best.

Fine cotton and dryer lint both combust with ease.

However, they burn too quickly and produce no usable embers.

By contrast, char cloth and fine bark fibers light with ease.

And this tinder burns more slowly and allows you time to remove the ember from the piston and use it to start a fire.

You can make char cloth by burning denim or cotton cloth in a closed metal container with limited oxygen.

I use a metal breath mint container with a pinhole vent.

↓ How To Make Charcloth! ↓

How To Make One At Home

Like most tools, you CAN make one yourself with enough ingenuity, skill, and patience.

They’re fairly simple tools to build once you understand the principles behind them.

It also doesn’t have to cost much money (but will cost some “time”).

Watch this video to learn how to make one for just 1$:

↓ Slam Rod Fire Starter – Ignition By Air!! ↓

And here’s another good video on how to make one and some char cloth to go with it:

↓ Making A Fire Piston And Char Cloth ↓

Why You Should Carry One

Today, there are hundreds of tools designed to ensure your fire-making skills.

Tools range from survival lighters to solar mirrors.

They each have their benefits and drawbacks.

Some firestarters are better suited to certain situations than others.

Most experienced adventurers plan on carrying at least two different firestarters.

A primary and a backup, just in case.

But what did people do before modern technology made fire so simple?

Our ancestors didn’t have access to mass-produced plastic lighters.

They also didn’t carry boxes of waterproof matches or have Ferrocerium rods.

So if your primary source of fire is a bow drill, what can you carry for backup?

A compression fire starter is a smart backup option.

Final Thoughts

Nothing is going to replace a survival lighter as a primary firestarter.

Sorry, it’s too cheap, easy to use, and readily available.

But a piston fire starter is an exciting and reliable fire starter!

It does take practice to master, which I found both fun and challenging.

I like the durability of the build and the lack of moving parts.

There are no batteries and no fuel to run out.

This means it’s a fantastic long-term option that doesn’t rely on modern technology.

For most people, it’s an ideal backup firestarter.

And for anyone into survival or self-reliance, it’s an excellent primary firestarter.

All in all, they’re a tool worth checking out and adding to any survival kit.

Can you ever have TOO MANY ways to make a fire?

I don’t think so.

Why Trust Skilled Survival…

Go here now to review a full breakdown of:

Who We Are Our Credentials Our Mission & Product Recommendations…

Here are a few highlights of our teams credentials & certifications:

• Certified Member of a Mountain Search & Rescue Organization
• Plant Emergency & Safety Leader for a Major Food Manufacturer
• Member of the 10TH Mountain Division Hut Association
• Certifications: Avalanche 1, WFR, CPR
• Official Gear Tester for Numerous Outdoor Gear Companies
• Countless Multiday Backpacking trips into Remote Wilderness
• Bachelor’s Degree In Mechanical Engineering
• Bachelor’s Degree In Civil Engineering
• Bachelor’s Degree In Biomedical Engineering

We’re fully aware that TRUST is NOT something you GET but is EARNED.

And we’ll continue to earn YOUR trust through our forthright and honest approach with each new Blog Post, Guide & Product we create…

Jason K.

Born & Raised In The Remote Woods Of Michigan Engineering Degree From A Major University Long Standing Member Of Mountain Search & Rescue Offical Gear Tester For Several Outdoor Companies Avid Outdoorsman: Backpacking, Camping, Fishing Years Researching & Writing About Survival & Gear

P.s. Do You Live In A ‘Danger Zone’ County?

Find out now using my Danger Zone County List & Special Report it’s absolutely FREE. In minutes you’ll know EXACTLY where you stand and if you should be worried or not..

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Virtually everything you need to know about game meat from securing it, to how long the supply will last, to preserving it and turning it into delicious meals for your family.

It’s estimated that over 40 million hunters and anglers in the United States and Canada harvest protein from rivers, lakes, streams, fields, and forests every year. These game meats are not only an integral part of self-reliance but also a sustainable and economical way to harvest healthy meats for you and your family.

The first year my husband went deer hunting, I was beside myself when he brought the meat home. I wasn’t sure how to prepare it and my resources were very limited over a decade ago. It took a lot of trial and error to figure out what to do with it.

I was kind of hesitant to even try it. I find that when I’m unfamiliar with something, I tend to shy away from it. But, it was a lot of meat to just let sit in the freezer for a rainy day, and well… we weren’t made of money. So, I found an old recipe book that was my grandfather’s and tried it.

And, I was instantly impressed. Nothing, I mean nothing, compares to the flavor of venison. I much prefer it to beef. My oldest won’t even eat beef, only venison. And then we started expanding into other game meats and I was equally impressed.

While it takes a lot of hard work, you can acquire all of your meat from wild game and never buy meat again. But, if you’re like me and unsure, I’m here to help guide you through everything from defining game meat, going through flavor palates, preparing and preserving meat, figuring out how much your meat will make recipes, and more.

What is considered game meat?

Game meat is traditionally the flesh harvested from any non-domesticated land mammal, bird, or aquatic mammal that is legally hunted for personal consumption. However, many traditional game species are reared on ranches and harvested for commercial sale or even reared on backyard farms and homesteads around the world.

In short, animals that are typically farmed such as bovine, domestic swine, goats, sheep, and domestic fowl are excluded but most others can be considered game, even if they were reared by humans. In some specialized markets, game meats can be found for sale. This is becoming more and more common as people start to shy away from traditional, domesticated animals for food.

Why is it called game meat?

As I mentioned, game is traditionally hunted. Hunting is considered a sport because it tests the skill and ability of the hunter.

The word game is derived from the Old English word “gamen” which means joy, amusement, sport, or merriment. And since, traditionally, game is hunted it falls under the category of sport.

Common game meat in North America

Types of game meat vary based on your geographic location and there are thousands of animals worldwide that can be harvested for meat. In North America, some of the most common game species are:

Venison

Derived from the Latin word “to hunt” the term venison used to be used to describe any type of game meat including deer, rabbits, wild boar, and more. But, today, this term is used to describe the muscles and organs of any type of deer or antelope including, but not limited to, whitetail, elk, moose, and caribou.

Venison is delicious and flavorful. Nothing like bovine, it has a more earthy and rich flavor. It is also much leaner than domestic red meat and can be dry, especially if it is not cooked properly.

Rabbit

Rabbit meat is often described as being chicken-like in flavor, but it isn’t. While the flavor is mild, it’s also richer. This meat, like many game meats, can dry out quickly as well due to its leanness.

Duck

Duck is probably one of my favorite meats, coming in a close second to venison. It tastes absolutely nothing like chicken. In fact, by culinary standards, it’s often considered red meat despite the fact that scientifically speaking, it’s white.

Duck meat is very rich in flavor and duck breasts are actually fantastic cooked to rare.

Bear

If you’re lucky enough to live in an area where bear, especially black bear, is abundant enough to have a legal hunting season, you may enjoy this meat.

Bear meat is red meat, albeit slightly lighter than venison or beef. Bear meat has been compared to the flavor of venison, though chewier and slightly sweeter. It is typically slow-cooked because it can be quite tough.

Bison

Another favorite of mine is bison. Very lean, much like venison, but very delicious. The flavor of bison is much milder, while still being earthy than that of venison with very little “gamey” flavor going on at all.

Bison meat is a little more coarse than beef, and a. little sweeter, but the flavors are similar.

Squirrel

Some folks are taken aback at the idea of eating squirrels, much like rabbits. But it’s estimated over 1.8 million Americans hunt and cook this chicken of the woods. You do have to harvest several to make a decent meal if you have many people that you’re serving, but it can be worth your while.

Like rabbit, squirrel is often described as tasting like chicken, and that’s marginally true. Milder than rabbit, but not quite like chicken. However, due to diet, squirrels actually have a slightly nutty, sweet flavor and the texture is fine.

Beaver

Yep, people eat beaver. Who knew?

Beaver meat is not something I’ve personally tried, but it is described as being quite tough and stringy and very “gamey” in flavor. It’s not something a lot of people seem to like, but others swear by it and say it tastes similar to pork.

Wild Boar

Wild boar is nothing like its domestic cousin. It’s much leaner, higher in protein, and lower in cholesterol.

It has a flavor that can’t really be compared to other meats. The flavor is quite strong, rich, and nutty. The meat is juicy and is often described as a cross between beef and pork, but make no mistake, it doesn’t taste anything like domesticated swine meat.

Goose

Like duck, goose is considered a red meat by culinary terms, but scientifically is a white meat.

The flavor of goose is incredibly rich, comparable to a rare roast beef… but better. Also like duck meat, it is quite fatty, so there are a lot of natural flavors to it and it doesn’t need a lot added to it, unlike chicken.

Alligator

Known in the bayou as the chicken of the swamp, alligator is mild, white meat with a firm texture. It has a flavor similar to that of chicken, but more flavorful with a slightly fishy flavor.

Quail

Quail are quite small, but they have a good meat-to-bone ratio. In fact, the bones are so small, that they’re not typically removed but actually consumed along with the meat.

Quail has a similar flavor to chicken, but is better than most commercially raised chicken as it is richer and more flavorful.

Pheasant

The texture of the pheasant is like most poultry and the flavor is similar to chicken. However, it has a slightly “gamey” undertone with a mild smokey flavor.

Why eat game meat?

Game meat is an excellent choice for so many reasons. It’s healthier, it’s more sustainable, it’s more challenging to procure, it reduces your dependency on failing food systems, and so much more. So… what are the benefits of eating wild game?

It’s Healthy

Wild game is incredibly healthy. It’s much leaner than traditional, domesticated meats. If you put a meatloaf made from ground beef and another made from venison or bison in the oven… you’ll see all the fat at the bottom of the beef pan while the game meatloaf will not have much at all. A surefire way to tell, it’s virtually fat-free (in comparison).

Game meats are also very high in omega-3 fatty acids, an essential component of a healthy diet. According to a study done by Purdue University, their omega 3 to omega 6 ratio is also lower than grain-fed domesticated animals. This is beneficial because if that ratio is too high, it can increase inflammatory responses linked to chronic disease.

These meats were traditionally consumed by hunter-gatherer populations and this study shows that it’s not how much fat you consume, but rather the overall ratio of fats.

Wild game also has high amounts of essential vitamins and minerals such as iron, selenium, zinc, beta carotene, B6, and niacin.

It’s Natural- Antibiotic and Hormone Free

Game meat is harvested from its natural habitats, which means its diet is natural as well.

The meat isn’t farmed to grow fast and beefy, so no hormones are used.

Studies have shown that antibiotic treatment of animals can negatively affect the natural flora in the human gut. Wild game isn’t in need of antibiotics to avoid or treat infections, which means that you don’t have the concern.

It grew in its natural environment, eating its natural diet without human intervention, which, to most of us is a good thing.

It Tastes Better

I’ve known a lot of people to say game meat tastes, well, “gamey” but that’s simply because we’ve spent so long eating grain-fed meats that we don’t know to appreciate the flavor of natural meats.

Game meats have a unique and distinct flavor that is solely from their diet. Ruminants of any kind were never meant to consume grain, but since most domesticated animals are fed grain, it changes the flavor and we’ve gotten used to it instead of the flavor of an animal with a natural diet.

And for most folks, expanding your palette and enjoying the flavor of wild game just takes a little knowledge on how to properly prepare the meat. Most meats are fantastic, tastier, alternatives to more widely known and consumed meats.

It Is Environmentally Friendly

By eating wild game you reduce your carbon footprint. Most animals are harvested locally making the food miles from field to fork very few.

Hunting wild game is conservation and not enough people talk about how beneficial it is. Hunting has a positive effect on the ecology of our natural landscapes. Without hunting, populations would increase out of control to unsustainable levels.

And hunting helps keep natural woodlands and wetlands from being destroyed and conserves natural flora and gives wild bird populations more food allowing their populations to increase.

It’s Sustainable and Self Sufficient

We’ve all, unfortunately, seen the effects of a broken link in our food systems. Grocery store shelves can quickly become barren if even one element in that precarious system is broken down in some form.

However, hunting is a sustainable way to provide protein for you and your family. As I mentioned, it helps conserve natural resources but it also is something that you can do for you and your family to provide at least part of your protein without the detrimental effects of modern, commercial farm practices.

It’s Affordable

While hunting licenses and a bit of gear can cost money, it’s relatively inexpensive and gear doesn’t have to be fancy. Even if you do spend a good amount on the gear, it’s going to pay for itself in no time and you can use that gear for years.

Think about the cost of beef per pound from your local farmer’s market. Then consider the cost of a license and a bow and some arrows, and possibly a tree stand or hunting blind (and maybe some training and targets). You’ll spend less than you would to purchase a whole cow.

Low Risk of Food-Borne Illness

Commercially produced meats are often fed unnatural diets and crammed into spaces putting them at high risk for disease. Then, the meat is taken to the processing plant and the germs are spread all around the plant only to be packaged and brought home to put in your refrigerator.

In fact, a study done by consumer reports found that 97% of chicken contained bacteria that could make you sick. And another study by the center for science in the public interest found that beef is one of the riskiest meats to put in your fridge.

But you don’t have those worries so much with wild game since it lived a natural life, it’s probably healthy. Handling it properly should always be the first and foremost priority and knowing how to properly process it yourself or finding a reputable, small processing plant essential. But the risk is far less than with grocery store meats.

No Additives

Remember pink slime? It’s a filler that, for a short time, wasn’t used due to public pressure. But it didn’t last long.

This product is full of ammonia and is used as a filler in poultry and beef products to help reduce the risk of e. coli in these meats. And then that toxic chemical can slowly build up in the consumer’s system… Think about it.

No worries for pink slime or “saline solution” to increase weight, appearance, and safety in wild game, though.

What is the healthiest game meat?

Game meat of any type is very healthy, especially when compared to common commercial meats like beef. Wild game meat has more omega-3 fatty acids, it is leaner, lower fat, and has lower calories per 100 grams than most commercial meats.

How long will my game meat supply last?

Believe it or not, you can subsist on game meats year-round and never purchase meat again. In fact, it’s a goal of ours to transition to 100% wild game at some point in the future save some sausage casings and pork fat.

That being said, it will take a lot of work and dedication to keep your freezer and pantry full of meat. You can use game meats to help decrease your grocery bill, or you can slowly, but completely, transition to game meats and not have to purchase commercial meat again.

It’s certainly healthier and more sustainable than purchasing commercial meats, even if you’re purchasing those meats from a local, small farm. Which, you definitely should be doing, regardless.

When thinking about the possibility of supplementing or completely switching over to game the question of how much meat you need arises. And, of course, that answer can vary wildly. It’s highly dependent on how much meat you and your family consume each day, how often you feed guests, how often you won’t be eating meat from your harvest due to travel or eating elsewhere, and lastly whether you utilize nose-to-tail eating or only consume the cuts you enjoy.

The table provided below will give you a few ballpark estimates. This table is based off of the average serving size per person, with large game serving sizes being smaller than small game. These are the average weights of meat harvested off of each animal, which will always vary slightly. You can increase the weight yielded if you choose to utilize the entire animal, organ meats, less desirable cuts, etc. But, this can give you an idea:

How do I obtain game meat?

Traditionally, you would, of course, hunt for it. But, times have changed, and as consumer demand increases for more sustainable, natural, and environmentally friendly meats so have production processes.

While selling wild game is illegal, selling game meats that are farmed and processed at a USDA processing plant is not.

Game meats are becoming more and more common on supermarket shelves. While these meats aren’t wild, they are typically ethically grown and allowed natural diets on large ranches. They’re not fattened up with grains and are not given all types of hormones and antibiotics.

You can also oftentimes put your name on a list for a local processor. Many times hunters don’t pick up their meat for one reason or another. You can often get wild harvested game from a local processor for the cost of processing the meat.

Another option, if you’re comfortable and your local laws allow it, is to harvest road kill. While the process of doing this is very time sensitive and dependent on how much of the animal was struck, we’ve personally harvested several bucks off of the highway. If you’re in the area when the accident occurs, you know the meat is fresh and if the entire animal wasn’t side-struck much of the meat may be salvageable. This all depends on your comfort level and local laws, though.

Hunting game meat

Hunting game meat is the traditional method but rules and regulations vary by state. Sometimes, these rules even vary by county or even by hunting zones. I strongly suggest you look up your local rules, regulations, and seasons for your particular area.

Poaching isn’t cool, nor is it necessary. Seasons and bag limits are implemented for numerous reasons. One is to avoid nesting and mating seasons so that the population can reproduce, keeping levels where they need to be. Another is to avoid over-harvesting a particular population conserving it for future hunters and maintaining ecology.

Hunting licenses aren’t very expensive and they help pay to conserve natural wildlife habitats. In fact, without these dollars, it wouldn’t be easy to pay for the maintenance and purchase of wildlife habitats. These licenses also help local fish and wildlife districts know how many hunters and anglers there are which helps them set bag limits accordingly to conserve populations.

So make sure to contact your local Department of Natural Resources of Fish and Wildlife Division to be sure you know what’s legal and what isn’t.

Some states require hunter’s education courses, some allow some weapons and not others, some areas the bag limit will be higher than in others. How many antlered vs antlerless deer you can harvest can vary and more. It’s really dependent on your area.

Hunting is rewarding, though, and a skill I believe everyone should have at least a basic knowledge of. It allows you to provide protein for yourself and your family for just a little bit of money… but it can, and often does, take a lot of time.

Depending on the game you plan to hunt will determine the equipment you need. It’s often helpful to find a more experienced hunter to show you the ropes and help you safely and successfully harvest game until you get a little more experience under your belt.

Purchasing commercially available game meat

Some folks don’t have the desire or ability to hunt game, and that’s ok. Today’s consumer demand for healthy, sustainable, natural meats has grown immensely so the availability of these meats commercially has come a long way.

Most local groceries have at least some wild game meats available, some more than others. And a lot of farmer’s markets have game meats available, making them an excellent stop to see what you can find.

Even if you can’t find these meats locally, many ranches and farms sell USDA-processed meats online and ship them country-wide. So, there are options available to you if you’d like to try these healthier protein alternatives.

How do I preserve game meat?

There are many, many ways to preserve game meat from freezing to canning, to curing. It really depends on your comfort level, your knowledge level, and what equipment you have.

Freezing Wild Game

Freezing meat is, understandably, the easiest and most widely used method for preserving game meats. Many people invest in a vacuum sealer which can help preserve frozen meats for a longer period of time.

I recommend you package meats in individual packages that reflect the amount you and your family typically eat per serving. So, you may package a pound of ground meat, four steaks, or for smaller game, the entire animal.

Canning Wild Game

You can also game meat. While this does require a pressure canner, it’s a straightforward process. I love canning meat, though because it not only frees up freezer space, it makes meals so easy. Since the meat is already cooked during the canning process, it just needs to be warmed a little and you’ve got a meal.

Canned venison is one of my favorite, shelf-stable ways to preserve it.

Curing Wild Game

Another way is to cure meats. Now, this can be things like venison summer sausage, smoked jerky, venison jerky, or smoked hams and bacon. This method requires a bit more time, a larger comfort level, some equipment, and a little more knowledge, but these foods are so tasty, that you’ll be glad you jumped into it.

How do I cook game meat?

Game meat is easy to cook, but it’s not quite the same as cooking domesticated meats. It’s leaner which means it will dry out more quickly and the flavor is slightly different, making the seasonings you use, perhaps, a bit different as well.

These things are true of almost all wild game, with a few exceptions. Cooking venison is an easy enough process, though. You’ll just want to follow a few tips.

• Allow the meat to come to room temperature before cooking, this is true of any game meat, not just red meat. By doing this, you won’t “shock” the meat which can cause it to overcook. This process will take at least an hour, depending on what you’re cooking.

• Wild game should never be overcooked. Overcooking game will produce a metallic flavor and create a very tough texture.
• Keep wild game pink and on the rare side for the best flavor. The exception being goose meat which should be cooked to a temperature of 155°F for the best flavor and texture. Bear and wild boar should also be cooked to a minimum internal temperature of 155°F to avoid potential food borne pathogens.
• Brown the surface after cooking if you’re roasting it in the oven for the best flavor.
• Allow game meat to rest about 15 minutes after cooking before serving.
• Game meat is best after cooked and not warmed up later.

What can I do with game meat? (recipes)

A lot of game meats can be swapped for more widely utilized meats like poultry, beef, and pork. As long as you follow the tips to cook it properly, you’ll be well on your way.

Instead of Chicken Use

Rabbit

Rabbit is very similar to chicken and a lot of traditional French recipes use rabbit and have more modern chicken versions of the same dish.

Rabbit can be cooked whole or separated into pieces and even deep-fried like chicken. However, it is best roasted, slow-cooked, or braised. Like this Braised Rabbit in Cream Sauce. The meat is a little tougher than chicken, especially if it’s wild-harvested meat, so slow and low is a great way to prepare it.

Quail

Quail are very small, typically serving an individual, not an entire family. But, they’re packed full of flavor that is similar, though richer, to chicken.

Most often people roast the whole bird, sometimes stuffing it. They are very lean, like most game and they cook quickly so be mindful of that when preparing. A whole bird will take about 20 minutes to cook through, which is when the meat is firm and juices run clear.

Duck

Duck is one of my favorite chicken substitutes. While it doesn’t taste a lot like chicken, it’s similar just richer.

The meat is also a little fattier, which means it doesn’t dry out as easily, making it great for beginners because it’s so much harder to dry out. I love making roasted duck, but the legs smoked and dipped in bbq are to die for as well.

Pheasant

A whole pheasant is very similar in size to a chicken, usually weighing approximate 2-3 pounds. As mentioned above, it’s very flavorful and most people like the flavor of it and don’t find it overly “gamey”.

Pheasant is best prepared by cooking it low and slow since it is much leaner than chicken. As I said, you don’t want to overcook game meats. You’ll also want to add fat to the bird or it will dry out. You’ll want to cook it at a low oven temperature or plan to frequently baste it. Cook to a temperature of 180°F.

Instead of Beef Use

Bison

Bison is an excellent choice for folks trying game meat for the first time. The flavor is unique and earthy, but mild and similar in both texture and flavor to beef.

Bison can be used in place of any dish calling for beef and the cooking method is the same except you’ll want to ensure you don’t overcook it, as it is very lean. Cooking bison to a rare to medium-rare temperature is best, you want a little pink in it.

Venison

Venison… I can’t say enough good things about it. It is by far my favorite and I’ll take a serving of venison over beef any day of the week, and so will my kids.

This meat is perfect in place of beef, prepared correctly and not overcooked it’s bursting with flavor. It’s perfect for making dishes like venison stroganoff, chili, sous vide roast or even a marinated venison steak.

In Place of Pork Use

Wild Boar

Wild boar isn’t the same as its domestic cousins, but it is very similar and the perfect substitute for domestic pork recipes.

Like most game, wild boar is best being cooked low and slow. Making pulled pork is one of my favorite ways, but you can also use the hams, make bacon, and more.

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New foragers sometimes worry about telling the difference between highly sought-after ramps (wild leeks) and their poisonous look-alikes, Lily-of-the-valley. It’s always wise to be leery when you’re new to foraging, but once you know what to look for you don’t need to worry. There are quite a few ways to accurately tell the difference between the two plants.

Ramps (ramsons in the UK) are alliums, members of the onion family. Their leaves taste like a milder mixture of garlic and onion, and once cooked they have the texture of spinach. They have a short season and are difficult to cultivate, which means that they fetch top dollar at farmers’ markets — up to $20 a pound.

In contrast, Lily-of-the-valley is an imported flower that has invasive habits and contains cardiac glycosides that affect the body in a similar manner to foxglove (digitalis). Symptoms of ingesting it include flushed skin, nausea, dizziness, headache, weakness, hallucinations and changes in heart rate. In extreme cases, it can lead to death. Most cases of poisoning by Lily-of-the-valley result from children eating the berries that occur later in the season, but occasionally there are cases of poisoning where people mistakenly cook with them, thinking they are ramps.

The two plants look similar, but there are good ways to tell them apart. You can see some differences right away and there are even more ways to be sure you’re picking ramps and not lily-of-the-valley.

Appearance:

• Look at the roots. Ramps emerge from a bulb and have rootlets at the very end of it. Lily-of-the-valley do not have bulbs but have longer roots with rootlets along the length.
• Look at the leaves. Ramps have one or two leaves that emerge separately from the ground, each on its own stem. Lily-of-the-valley has a stem that appears and multiple leaves that are whorled around the center.
• Look at the flowers. Ramps do not have a flower stem until later in the season. The lily-of-the-valley flower stem appears almost as soon as the leaves unfold. Once the flowers emerge (generally after the season for harvesting ramps), the flowers look very different. Ramp flowers are small daisy-like clusters with green centers at the end of a stalk, while Lily-of-the-valley have many small bell-shaped flowers that hang down from the length of the stalk.

Location:

• Look at the site. Ramps grow on the floor of moist, open woodlands. Lily-of-the-valley is a domestic plant which likes the same soil, but is usually found on old farm sites and around homes.

Season:

• Pay attention to the time of year. Ramps emerge earlier in the year. They typically come up when Lily-of-the-valley are just breaking the ground in very early spring.

Scent:

• Smell it. Smell is the easiest identifier by far. Tear the leaf — ramps smell very strongly of onion and garlic. Lily-of-the-valley has no smell when the leaves are torn.

It’s a good idea to locate and dig up a lily-of-the-valley so you can see and smell the differences for yourself. The best way is to forage with someone who has experience with ramps your first time out. That said, if you use these identifiers it is easy to tell the difference. Be sure to never eat anything that you are not sure about, however.

Ramps are extremely slow to reproduce, which means it’s important to forage for them responsibly. In some parts of the country they are over-harvested and it is illegal to harvest them in parts of Canada. Be sure to only harvest the leaves and not the bulbs, so the plants survive. Even then, harvest only a small percent of the leaves you find. This can help ensure that the stand can continue on for many years.

Once you have your ramps, here are wonderful ways to cook with them.

They may not be the prettiest specimens on the planet, but then again, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. And we’re willing to bet you wouldn’t pass up any of these bucks because they were a tad asymmetrical. Some of these deer were taken by hunters who didn’t mind a lot of junk. One deer’s death remains a mystery, while another got “ran over by a damned old train.” Classic country songs aside, these are the stories of the biggest whitetail deer to make it into the Boone and Crockett records.

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Number 1 – Missouri Pick Up

Score: 333-7/8 Location: St. Louis County, Missouri Year: 1981

Its rack weighs more than 11 pounds, and it has more cheaters than a daytime soap opera. But that’s about where the drama ends for this guy. He was found dead inside a fence along a road in northern St. Louis County. A hunter who already had his buck notified the warden who got permission to retrieve it. They couldn’t find any bullet holes and didn’t have any ideas on the cause of death. It was only 5 ½ years old. The head was forgotten until the first of the year when the warden took it to the taxidermist who knew at first glance what he had. It was measured and dubbed the biggest and baddest whitetail of all time. It remains property of the state of Missouri on display for all its citizens to see.

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Number 2 – Ohio Pick Up

Score: 328-2/8 Location: Portage County, Ohio Year: 1940

Taken down by a train, this buck hung in the Kent Canadian Club in Kent, Ohio for years. Dick Idol, an outdoor writer and avid antler collector, acquired the antlers from the club a few decades after it died. He had it officially measured and the entry measurement had it coming in as number one. Idol declared it number one and started to spread the word that a new king was crowned. The buck still had to go before a Scoring Panel at the 19th Awards. The panel score was lower, and the buck was bumped to number two. According to the records, “The slightly lower score…is explained by the necessary interpretation of several points on the beam as being either typical or non-typical.” To be fair, the rack has nearly 200 inches of abnormal points.

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Number 3 – Brewster Buck

Score: 327-7/8 Location: Edgar County, Illinois Year: 2018

Yes, you’ve seen this buck here before, but don’t you think it’s worth another look? This is the biggest free-ranging whitetail ever taken by a hunter, and it was taken by a guy who is no stranger to world-class whitetails. Luke Brewster and his friends are whitetail fanatics with a knack for consistently taking giant bucks. The group called this buck Mufasa and Brewster (who lived in Virginia) was in the right place at the right time on a November morning when the buck stepped into bow range.

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Number 4 – Butcher Buck

Score: 321-3/8 Location: Chase County, Kansas Year: 2019

If you’re scoring a deer like this, it’s best to just clear the calendar and put on a pot of coffee. Brian Butcher had been hunting the same property for 13 years, and in April 2019 his trail camera snapped a photo of this creature. In the fall, Butcher returned to hunt in his treestand on the edge of a CRP field when the buck returned. At 25 yards, Butcher released an arrow. And it was all over—except the scoring, of course. That took a little while.

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Number 5 – Tennessee Tucker Buck

Score: 315-1/8 Location: Sumner County, Tennessee Year: 2016

For two years, Stephen Tucker held the crown of having killed the biggest free-ranging whitetail of all time before Brewster’s Illinois giant fell. Tucker killed his buck on his family’s small farm during Tennessee’s November muzzleloader season. It was, in fact, the second time he’d had the buck within range. The first time he saw it, Tucker had the buck at 30 yards, but his muzzleloader failed to fire. Eventually, Tucker caught up with the buck again.

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Honorable Mention – Bryant Crossbow Buck

Score: 304-3/8 Location: Fulton County, Illinois Year: 2001

Illinois isn’t known for harboring caribou, but the shovel-like eye-guard on this bruiser could have come from the Arctic Circle. Considering that hunter Jerry Bryant wasn’t after caribou or even a deer when he shot the new Illinois state record, the buck is a pretty good blind luck story. Bryant was minding his own business back in 2001 in a treestand on his buddy’s farm enjoying a Twinkie and some Mountain Dew with his trusty crossbow by his side. Because he was injured on the job a few years back, he couldn’t pull back his compound, so he applied and got a special permit to hunt with a crossbow.

A group of gobblers came into view, and when he reached for his bow (he was actually turkey hunting), they spooked and took off. Soon thereafter, a doe cruised by, urinated and moved on. Hot on her tail was Big Buck Jones (seen here). It stopped to sniff her puddle of pee, which gave Jerry a 15-yard slam dunk. The buck didn’t even flinch after being shot through the heart. It took a few steps, wobbled, and died. Jerry kept the news of the buck on the down low as he was going through a rough divorce at the time and didn’t want half his buck taken. Once court was adjourned, he revealed his 36-point buck.

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