Finally! I got my hands on the Benelli M4, more specifically the Benelli M1014, and I couldn’t be more excited to review this world-renowned semi-automatic tactical shotgun.

Today we’re going to be talking about a truly iconic shotgun, that is the Benelli M4 / M1014. This gun is so well known simply by sight it is the “tactical shotgun” everyone thinks about when they think of tactical shotguns.

Popular Culture

It would be a huge disservice considering the Benelli M4 alone has been featured in over 40 movies and TV shows.

The Benelli M Series of shotguns has been featured in hundreds of movies and TV shows through the years.

Some of the most popular movies such as John Wick, Miami Vice, Sabotage, The Walking Dead, and everyone’s new favorite Yellowstone.

These are just a small sample of shows that feature the M4. If you go back to the M1, M2, and M3 you will find your favorite movie among them, I’m certain of it.

Benelli M4 Military Use

I’m going to talk a little bit about the history and get into it makes this weapon so interesting.

The Benelli M4 is in wide military usage across the globe and is one of the few shotguns that was built from the ground up to be a combat shotgun.

Since it was created with the very purpose of being used it combat that makes the gun even more appealing and the design choices Benelli made are extremely interesting and telling.

The United States Marines have used the gun since 1999.

Other countries currently using the Benelli M4 for military use are Isreal, the United Kingdom, Australia, South Korea, and Portugal just to name a few.

These semi-auto shotguns are used from small tactical units right up to infantry fighting units.

They are battle-tested and proven in a number of conflicts across the globe.

This is a very effective weapon and because of the amount of combat action this shotgun has seen, it’s extremely easy to review because we already know that this is a proven combat shotgun that is reliable and durable.

So now all that is left to do is talk about how this shotgun is different from the other shotguns on the market and the features and ergonomics that make this gun so different.

Features and Ergonomics

The features and ergonomics of the Benelli M4 are a huge selling point for this tactical shotgun.

The ergonomics along with the insanely manageable recoil are two things that really make this gun what it is.

Many people don’t come close to a Benelli M4 because it is somewhat expensive but the ones who have used it know that it is truly one of the best tactical shotguns available.

Pistol Grip

I’ll start with one of the most iconic pieces of the gun: the grip.

Many movies have made reference to the grip and it is the easiest way to identify the weapon at a glance.

The grip feels good and large the pistol grip texture is decent on the M1014 it is a polymer grip with lines cut in the polymer to serve as the texture.

I have smaller hands and it still feels good even for a larger grip.

The pistol grip on the M4 really makes this gun shine it’s a combination of a comfortable known feeling of a pistol and the balance of a shotgun all in one.

Trigger

Now that brings us to the trigger, one of the most important parts for companies to get right!

The trigger has only a small amount of play before you hit the wall. With about a 6-7 pound pull and a short crisp reset, the trigger is really nice.

For a shotgun, Benelli has really impressed me with this trigger because it’s very short and crips, and feels great. Considering it’s a combat shotgun built from the ground up the fact they got such a nice trigger in this gun is surprising.

Safety

There’s really only so much you can say or do with a shotgun safety. It’s nothing to write home about.

You can easily toggle the safety one or off and it works well but it’s nothing earth-shattering.

Barrel

Most of the Benelli M4 models feature an 18.5-inch barrel.

The Benelli for your slugs and your buck, anything that you could possibly need to use with it.

There are shorter models of the Benelli M4 that have a 14-inch barrel for CQB and other closer engagements.

I like the 18.5″ barrel due to the fact it can be used for nearly any application with any ammo and be very effective.

The versatility of this gun is fantastic you can hunt with it, skeet shoot, nearly anything you want to do with this shotgun you can. Overall the barrel length in the 18.5″ is great and I like it a lot.

Handguard

Now let us talk about the handguard because while it is a very simple design it’s an extremely important part of the shotgun.

With this handguard, there isn’t much in the way of mounting options so if you are used to an AR-15 and its infinite amount of mounting accessories this might be a slight disappointment to you.

But the simplicity is unbeatable. You can take off both of the plastic handguard pieces are replace them with picatinny or any aftermarket handguard you wish.

But keep in mind this handguard design is combat-proven and changing the handguard or throwing anything on the gun increases the complexity of the gun.

Plus, the gun has such clean lines adding anything to it will really break up the extremely clean look of the M4.

So this handguard works great in my opinion.

One thing to note about this gun is the barrel is thick and the handguard performs just fine but the weapon does heat up when you shoot it and it can heat up fast.

If you shoot 20-25 rounds consecutively you’re going to start feeling some serious heat from the barrel. My recommendation is to make sure you a wearing some thick gloves if you plan to shoot this gun rapidly and consecutively.

Stock

The nice thing about the Benelli M4 is that there are multiple socks out there that you can switch out for.

But considering the stock is iconic I’m not too worried about switching it out.

I really do like the sock on the Benelli M1014. The stock feels good when you shoot. What many people don’t know is most of the stocks on the Benelli M4’s are single position, yes even the skeletonized stocks that look collapsible.

It all boils down to the M4 Recoil Spring Tube Assembly and if it’s cut for multiple position stock adjustment or not.

Overall the stock is exceptional and functions as intended.

Loading/Tubular Magazine

Time to talk about the tubular magazine on the Benelli M4. Surely another iconic piece of the gun.

The magazine tube on this weapon provides a ton of stability for the gun. There are a number of rings holding the magazine tube so that it doesn’t move, bend, or sway. This tubular magazine is definitely not going to be knocked out of place or damage to take this weapon out of service.

The magazine cap on the end of the magazine is very sturdy and durable as well.

Of course, most of us have been spoiled with the AR-15 and even bolt guns with their magazine-fed functionality the magazine tube feels dated at best.

While there are magazine-fed shotguns they don’t have quite the combat-proven appeal that the tubular magazine shotguns have.

Also, the reliability of a shotgun shell in a magazine is not as good as a tubular magazine. At some point though I could see the magazine feed shotgun make the tubular magazine shotguns obsolete.

But as it stands as of this writing the Benelli M4 is the most reliable, durable, and combat-proven shotgun on the market today.

If you’re looking for a purpose-built combat shotgun the Benelli is no slough and definitely should be considered.

Shell Release Lever

We have covered a number of the features of this gun already but one of the most interesting ones is the shell release lever.

This part get’s a little deep and it’s easier to show you than it is to explain in writing so try to stay with me here.

The Benelli M4 features a shell release lever. The lever functions in a way that allows you to stop the next round in the magazine tube from being released and chambered with the gun are either fired or the shell in the chamber is ejected.

So if you have a round loaded into your Benelli M4 until you hit that Shell Release Lever, no more rounds are going to come into the chamber from the magazine tube.

But what would you need that you ask?

First, this is a safety feature built in to stop this semi-auto shotgun from chambering additional rounds. If you need to store this gun in a vehicle and don’t want to keep one in the chamber but want it to remain ready to fire quickly it’s perfect for that scenario.

Second, if you are handing the gun to someone you can unload the chambered shell and then not chamber the next round to hand it to them over an obstacle or a barrier safely and simply

Third, and most importantly, you can easily switch between different types of shotgun shells quickly and in the middle of shooting.

For example, if you have your magazine filled with buckshot and you need to reach further downrange to hit your target you can lock your shell release lever and cycle the chambered round and switch your shotshell out for say… a slug, now you can reach downrange and engage your target at a longer distance.

So as a recap, if I have a round in the chamber, but I need to load the next round for whatever reason I can go ahead and I hit the shell release, I eject out the current round in the chamber, release it, and that will load up the next round.

Now, keep in mind if I’m unloading the weapon and cycle the shells out of the chamber, I flip it around and I’m releasing the shells off manually once those are out, if I try to lock this bolt back, it’s not going to lock back because it will only lock back on an empty chamber once the hammer has dropped.

But to get it to lock back what I can do is, hit the shell release lever, then I can lock that bolt back.

Capacity

Now depending on the version, you get a seven-round tube or a five-round tube with a cap, which is silly. Magazine caps and limits are foolish.

The Benelli M4 can shoot both 2 3/4″ and 3″ shells. The cap in the five-round tube can be removed and if legal to do so I highly recommend it.

It is very easy to switch the magazine tube to get the 2 round limit out of the Benelli M4, to achieve the seven-plus one magazine. But it may cost a little money. You also need to be aware of 922(r).

What’s 922(r)? It’s a federal law that prohibits Benelli from importing this gun with a 7 round capacity. You can learn more about it by watching this video.

You can actually get seven plus two if you have the 7 round tube. Let us talk about ghost loading.

Ghost Loading/Carrier Loading

So what is Ghost loading? Ghosting loading is getting your Benelli M4 to a nine-shell capacity.

Here is how you ghost load:

1. Pull that back until the shell carrier doesn’t lift
2. Then drop the shell that was in the chamber into the shell carrier
3. Then you place your second shell into the Chamber
4. Ride that bolt forward
5. Go ahead and shoot

If you would like to see it in person watch flannel daddy (aka Travis Haley’s son) explain and show you the Ghost loading technique.

Operating System

One of the major components of the Benelli M4 is its gas system and simple and easy it is to take down.

The gas system is called the ARGO, which stands for auto regulating gas-operated.

A.R.G.O.Benelli’s patented Auto-Regulating Gas-Operated (A.R.G.O.) system is a simple, self-cleaning, piston-driven action.

The gas system is also what makes the gun shoot clean to the point you almost don’t have to clean the weapon.

Because of the ARGO’s gas systems self-cleaning ability there have been documented instances of M4’s going 20,000+ rounds with no cleaning and no issues.

Assembly/Disassembly

Assembly and disassembly of the Benelli M4 is extremely simple.

To disassemble the M4 you start by unscrewing the cap right that holds the barrel on.

Once that is off you can easily pull the Benelli M1014 apart.

This is one of the appeals of the M4 because it is extremely field-friendly, it’s very easy to replace the barrel and operating system assemblies for a shorter one. So if I needed the 14-inch entry model, it’d be very easy to pull off the 18.5″ barrel and put on a whole new barrel.

Underneath the handguards is the ARGO system. The ARGO system has two operating rods that are piston-driven and impinge upon the bolt carrier group and cycle it.

The ARGO system is a very simple and reliable system and the best part is it works with nearly any shotgun round, from slugs to buckshot to lighter rounds like birdshot.

The A in ARGO stands for auto-regulate so no need to adjust the gas system depending on your shotgun shell.

Sights

Let us talk about the sights on the Benelli M4, probably one of the most important things on the gun.

The sights that come stock on the Benelli M4 are quite good. The front sight has a simple white dot and wings on either side to protect it.

The wings on the front sight are a nice touch are clearly there to protect the front sight so it doesn’t get knocked around or damaged.

Moving back to the rear sight which features an extremely simple ghost ring setup.

The ghost ring sight is fully adjustable and is fantastic to use. The sight picture is great and overall it’s hard to beat.

The stock sights are awesome. But most people who pay for a Benelli M4 are going to put an optic on it of some kind. It just makes sense and really completes the gun overall.

Finish

Time to talk about the finish on the Benelli M1014.

All of the aluminum parts are anodized with a tough mil-spec phosphate coating.

The coating is extremely resistant to rust and corrosion but if you happen to need just a little extra Benelli does offer an H2O model.

You never hear much about people having trouble with their Benelli coating so I feel you can rely on this phosphate coating to last.

The finish is a matte finish with almost no glossy parts on the M4 at all, which I personally love for a few reasons.

Less chance of someone seeing a reflection if you are using this in combat or self-defense and matte finishes just seem to hold up better.

Benelli M4 Accessories

Naturally with any gun, you’ll want to accessorize it to make it your own. The old adage there are many of these guns but this is my gun doesn’t really hit home until you add your own flair.

So what is available? I’m glad you asked!

Benelli M4 Bag

If you are looking for a great case for your Benelli M4 Lynx Defense has you covered with the Gigabyte shotgun case.

The Gigabyte is the best soft case for the Benelli M4 and has tons of padding and weapon retention.

If you don’t need a hard case the Gigabyte is the hands-down best carry case for your Benelli M4.

Optics

The nice thing about the M4 is it comes standard with a 1931 picatinny rail on top of the gun so nearly any AR-15 optic or red dot sight will work.

But! There are some other interesting options and spins you can take let’s dive in.

Trijicon RMR

Using the Scalarworks SYNC you can easily mount a Trijicon RMR to your Benelli M1014.

The Scalarworks mounting system replaces the existing Picatinny rail system and adds an optic mounting plate for the RMR, much like you would see on a red dot-ready pistol slide.

Aimpoint T-2 or Comp M5 or T-1

You can also buy a Scalarworks Sync/02 for the Aimpoint T-2, Comp M5, or Aimpoint T-1.

The nice part about the Sync mount is you can co-witness the iron sights with the Aimpoint T-1 or T-2.

EOTech HWS

The EOTech HWS will affix directly to the top rail and you will see almost every Benelli M4 feature these optics.

Why?

Because they work and a rock-solid in design and look great on the M4. Not to mention they are nearly perfect for a shotgun. The design of EOTech’s holograph reticle is the perfect circle shotgun pattern.

You can check out our full review on the EOTech HWS.

Flashlights

One of the best ways to mount a flashlight to the Benelli MR is to use the Multi Light Benelli M4 Scout Mount.

It is made by Impact Weapons Components and works great. You can it up from Brownells and a number of other retailers.

The Impact Weapon Scout Mount allows you to directly mount any Surefire, Streamlight, or other weapon light you choose.

Personally, I wouldn’t mount any pressure switches since you would have to do some serious custom work to make that work and would just use the push button activation caps.

Shooting the Benelli M1014

One of the nicest things about the Benelli M4 is shooting it. The A.R.G.O. system works incredibly well and a lot of the recoil is absorbed because of the gas system.

This is one of the major selling points of the Benelli M4 and it does do its job in mitigating recoil.

Ammo Options

Shotgun shells are one of the most prolific rounds available and with that comes a ton of options and possibilities. Let us talk about the three main loads you are likely to use in the Benelli M4.

Good Slug for Benelli M4

There are a ton of great slug options for the Benelli M4. Slugs have gotten rather expensive in the world of ammo in 2022.

However, if you are looking for range rounds that won’t break the back the low recoil Fiocchi 12 Gauge – 2-3/4″ Rifled Slug rounds are probably your best bet.

Good Buckshot for Benelli M4

Buckshot has tons of different options due to its popularity in the hunting space. But when it comes to the M4 it feels like it needs a tactical buckshot load.

So for this, I’d have to recommend the Black Aces 00 Buckshot to feed in your Benelli M4.

Final Thoughts

Without a doubt, I think the Benelli M4 is the go-to combat shotgun.

It’s probably the best one out there currently. There are other shotguns that are giving the M4 a run for its money, namely the Beretta 1301.

But the Benelli M4 still holds the gold medal in terms of durability, reliability, and finish resistance.

Many other options are better than the M4 but it still has its place and purpose and still is incredibly reliable.

The M4’s biggest limitation is the fact it’s a shotgun and it has all the same limitations regular shotguns have. But for something close range and one the ability to absolutely destroy targets at close range you can’t beat a 12 gauge shotgun.

Final thought, the Benelli M4 is a fantastic combat-capable shotgun that looks great and performs great and not only is it one of the best shotguns on the market but it’s one of the best shotguns for home defense.

FAQ

Spring is in the air here in Maine. Spring chic’s, piglets and turkeys are starting to be come available at local farm supply stores. I thought I would check in with Harris Turkey Farm to see what it takes to raise my own turkeys. Here’s what they had to say.

We buy our turkey poults at one day old. If you are looking to raise a few of your own turkeys here are a few things to keep in mind to grow a healthy flock.

• You should buy poults from a flock that has been tested free of diseases. Ask if the hatchery or farm has been NPIP tested. This voluntary program helps ensure the flock is free of 2 types of Salmonella infections.
• Keep them babies warm!!! We can’t stress this enough, the first week of life they need to be 95 degrees. If they are too cold, they will pile up together and suffocate. If you are using a heat lamp, make sure it is secure. Many house, barn, garage, and shed fires happen every year from heat lamps that are not secured properly. As they grow, you can decrease the heat by 5 degrees each week. Remember to check the temperature at their level.
• Provide 24 hour access to food and water, and have enough space to all eat at once. If there isn’t enough space, the less aggressive birds will eat smaller amounts and not grow as well. Only use watering containers they CANNOT get into. Turkey poults don’t swim! If they get wet, they will be chilled and may die.
• Not all food is created equal, turkeys need a high protein and energy food with balanced vitamins and minerals. As babies, do not feed them any food other than what is designed for them. No table scraps, no sunflower seeds, no scratch feed. You can supplement their diet when they get older. We use and recommend Blue Seal feeds.
• When is the best time to get your poults? That depends on how big you want them. For Thanksgiving, we raise broad breasted whites for 13-15 weeks. The toms (males) will be 20 +/- pounds and the hens (females) will be around 13-16 pounds. If you want a larger turkey, plan to raise them for 16-18 weeks. A tom that is 22 weeks old, could be 40 pounds dressed at Thanksgiving!!! You had better plan for some left overs. Heritage breeds will take 5-6 months to reach 15 pounds.
• The best dressed award goes to… You! You don’t have to process/butcher the birds yourself, but there aren’t too many places that offer turkey processing the week of Thanksgiving. We do not process turkeys for other people for biosecurity reasons, and our state licensing doesn’t allow us to do that.
• Only allow poults to access the outdoors when they have primary and secondary feathers (usually 3 weeks.) Don’t kiss your poults, they can carry bacteria and viruses that don’t affect them, but can cause you to get sick. Be sure to wash your hands after handling them and filling their feeders and watering containers.
• You need to provide 1-2 square feet/bird for young poults. As adults, if you choose to raise them in an enclosed building, they need 4-5 square feet per bird.

We are not veterinarians, but have plenty of experience. If you are unsure about something, send us an email and we will do our best to answer it or direct you to someone who can.

If you’ve been shooting semi-automatic pistols for more than a minute, you’ve inevitably locked the slide to an open chamber position. You have shot to a condition where you have expended all remaining rounds in your magazine and have observed your slide locked to the rearward position. Whether you manually moved the slide into the locked position for an intended purpose, or it was done for you by the cycling of the semi-auto pistol slide, what is the real story behind expediently disengaging a pistol slide stop?

Before jumping right into the technical details, it’s a good idea to first address nomenclature. A slide stop, also referred to as a ‘slide lock’ and in certain cases (some would claim erroneously) a ‘slide release,’ is a functional spring-loaded lever found on most semi-automatic pistols that engages by moving it into a fitted notch located in the slide on the same side as the slide lock.

It is designed to firmly position (lock) a reciprocating pistol slide to the rear of the frame which can be accomplished manually by the shooter physically moving it into place by hand, or by the cycling of the semi-auto pistol slide after the last round of a magazine is fired – colloquially referred to as “shooting to slide lock.”

Technically speaking, upon expending the last and final round of any remaining ammunition in your magazine, the follower (moving magazine part located between your cartridges and magazine spring), depressing the slide stop spring (attached to the frame), presses up against the slide stop and causes it to engage in the slide stop notch cut into the slide which in turn causes the slide to be pinned in the rearward position of the pistol frame presenting an empty chamber.

When the shooter happens to notice slide lock either visually or by feel, it can be considered a positive indicator that there is no more ammo remaining in your handgun prompting the shooter to reload and get the gun back up and running.

Manually speaking the slide stop can be used to either clear a complex operational malfunction, for firearm maintenance or to lock the chamber in the open position allowing for visual and/ /or digital inspection to ensure that the pistol is in fact empty.

In the context of shooting to slide lock, it’s important to get your gun back into action as quickly as possible. The logical conclusion to observing that you have shot to slide lock is to seat another magazine into the magazine well and disengage the slide lock as to place the gun back into full battery.

Inserting and properly seating the magazine is fairly straightforward with few variations, however, disengaging the slide stop is a completely different matter and can be accomplished using varied methods worth discussing in detail.

If you find yourself in mid-motion of firing your gun, and it is the case that you run out of bullets, indicated by shooting to slide lock, then it logically follows that you need to replace the now-empty magazine with a fresh magazine filled, preferably to maximum capacity, with cartridges thereby replenishing your ammunition supply.

The final step to recovering from shooting to slide lock is to disengage the slide lock placing the gun back into battery which can be accomplished expediently and consistently with a handful of varied techniques.

The Claw

Although not the fastest method available to place the slide back into battery, it is favored predominantly by the traditional defensive shooting community. Reason being that applying all four fingers you can work the slide even if you get one of them and/ or your thumb injured in a gunfight. It’s consistent with keeping 6 and 12 alignment in the workbox area therefore not needing to turn the pistol along its bore line axis at any time, conducive to clearing most common operational malfunctions and provides the shooter with yet another option to do a press check to ensure that there is in fact a round in battery if that is part of their standard operational procedure.

The Slingshot

The next most common is the sling shot method which is about the same response time as the claw. Although not really faster or slower it does require that the pistol be turned on its bore line axis that the support hand palm faces the strong hand to initiate the “pinch” or slingshot-like grasp (hence its namesake) utilizing the forefinger and the thumb.

The Slide Lock

Utilizing the slide lock itself to place the firearm back in battery offers the quickest response time. However, as no slick move comes without a price tag, one of the downsides is that if you are using your strongside thumb, based on the size of your hand you may need to reposition the gun in your hand moving the muzzle out of alignment which negates any time you may have saved.

Another potential hazard is of your hands may be cold, oily, sweaty, bloody, etc., which may cause slippage off the slide lock, an inconsistency that could cost valuable time. To bypass this potential hazard several gun parts manufacturers offer third-party oversized slide stops specifically designed with greater contact surface area for a more positive thumb placement. The downside to the oversized single-side or ambi third party slide locks is that if you have a large hand or big, long thumbs, this oversized landing pad can be inadvertently depressed during normal operation and cause a failure to lock back with an empty magazine.

Last but certainly not least is to utilize your support side thumb. Certain agencies and departments that also issue semi-auto AR platform carbines to their employees, train their shooters to hit the bolt catch (locking the bolt carrier assembly to the rear) sending the bolt forward and a round in battery using their support hand thumb. Those same officers are offered the option to employ the same support-side thumb technique to their pistols, therefore maintaining uniform operational consistency between issued shooting platforms.

Given these options and others not listed in the limited space here such as fighting through an injury (employing strong-hand-only and support-hand-only reloads on a belt, holster, boot heel, knees etc.,) the bottom line in disengaging the slide lock is to find that perfect balance between speed and consistency in exchange for an acceptable price tag.

Beretta’s APX Carry is the most recent version of the APX line of polymer-outline, striker-discharged guns. Like the APX Carry in measurements and having the equivalent particular body outline is the Beretta Nano, yet the two guns wander in clear and unobtrusive regards. In contrast to the Nano, the APX Carry has a slide-stop switch and furthermore an alternate grasp outline, slide, striker guide and spring, sights, and extractor. The two models are made in Beretta’s Gallatin, TN production line. Here you will get a complete review of the Beretta APX Carry as you read further.

Serialized and controlled, the hardened steel case outline contains the terminating component. It is removable from the hold outline, making cleaning and fix simpler than guns with shaped parts. You can likewise change to various shaded APX Carry or Nano grasp outlines for $39 MSRP and modify your hold outline—without gambling lasting adjustment to the controlled part.

The slide get-together has a nitride finish. Sights are steel development with a white spot out front and glare-lessening serrations on the back. The back sight has a positioning edge for solitary slide controls in a crisis and is float movable by hand in the wake of relaxing a setscrew. The two sights are effortlessly changed utilizing an Allen wrench and furthermore fit the Nano and Pico.

This gun is solidly made with more steel and thicker plastic than a few serious guns. The grasp outline is successfully finished with raised pyramids on the front and backstraps, and sandpaper-like creases on the sides to shield the gun from contorting in your grasp during withdraw.

Two cleaned, tempered steel magazines are provided. The six-rounder has a level floorplate and an additional pinky-rest floorplate is incorporated, while the eight-round magazine broadens the tallness around .5 inches and has a polymer neckline encompassing its base. The pinky-rest floorplate and the neckline have compelling, raised-pyramid finishing on their driving edges and give a full-hand hold to little and medium-sized hands, separately.

The magazines have observer gaps, however need numeric markings showing the staying round check. Completely stacked, both prompt addition and lock into place regardless of whether the activity is shut, which encourages strategic reloads. The six-rounder can be stacked with one extra round, however will possibly completely embed if the slide is aft. There’s an impulse to trim the magazine spring to permit addition with the activity shut, yet Beretta suggests against this in light of the fact that the abbreviated spring might be deficiently solid for dependable taking care of.

The striker is halfway tensioned when the slide is racked. Squeezing the trigger withdraws the rotating trigger tab, deactivates a striker obstruct inside the slide that keeps the terminating pin away from the groundwork, and completely cocks at that point delivers the striker. Striker squares are a standard element on self-loader guns, yet the APX Carry’s structure goes farther than most in two regards.

In the first place, as the trigger is squeezed, some portion of the striker square projects from the head of the slide as it is deactivated. This permits the administrator to check that it isn’t stuck in the deactivated position, which would be perilous. Second, on the grounds that the striker square juts marginally when the striker is de-cocked, it fills in as a positioning marker. The striker must be de-cocked before evacuating the slide to field strip the gun by squeezing the striker-deactivation button on the correct side of the grasp outline utilizing a little punch or ballpoint pen tip or squeezing the trigger.

The APX Carry was tried for precision utilizing two guarded and one practice load shot from rested blockades at 15 yards. In spite of the fact that this gun will never observe useful use from a bench rest, these tests affirm if the gun fires to purpose of-point and can help decide its ammunition inclinations as for precision. The littlest normal five-shot gathering of 1.69 inches was gotten from Black Hills’ 124-grain +P JHP, with the littlest single gathering of 1.2 inches originating from SIG Sauer’s P365 115-grain JHP. All heaps printed 2-3 creeps underneath purpose of-point when utilizing an inside hold sight picture, which can be adjusted by changing the front sight.

Extra capacity testing was led utilizing two extra loads. Working was incredible more than 400 rounds with the exception of a solitary inability to load one bullet of LTech ammo. Transferring the six-round magazine to seven didn’t make any stoppages, even with Blaser 147-grain loads with a level nose normal for 147-grain shots. The trigger draw estimated 6.3 pounds utilizing a Lyman electronic scale. The stroke is long, however noticeably smooth, moving roughly 5/8 inch before breaking at a point past 90 degrees to the dragline. There is no overtravel, and the trigger must be completely delivered to reset the component. The slide-stop switch and magazine discharge are open while not meddling with hold.

You can keep arrowheads you find on private land

Although different places have different laws, anything you find on public land (national parks, for example) is off-limits. What you find on private land that you have permission to look for arrowheads on is legal. Different laws apply in different places, but that is the general rule.

If arrowheads are on the surface, can you pick them up on public land?

No. Even if you don’t dig for the arrowheads, picking up arrowheads on public land is not allowed. There is always a fine per artifact if you collect arrowheads on public land.

It is not usually a felony to take arrowheads illegally, but you should look for arrowheads respectfully and legally. Look for arrowheads on private land with the owner’s permission.

A large majority of the land in Texas and elsewhere is privately owned, and a large majority of arrowheads can be found on this land. You aren’t missing out on anything special if you don’t look for arrowheads on public land.

In most states, you can’t dig up an archeological site even on private land that you have permission to use. There are laws against digging up archeological sites.

However, it can be legal to dig for artifacts in Texas because of property rights. The property owner gets to decide what happens to an archeological site on their land.

Any of the following are public land:

• National parks
• National forests
• Bureau of land management land
• National monuments

There are privately owned lakes that the public is allowed to use, where you may find arrowheads. It is usually legal to find arrowheads at these locations.

Are public waterways off-limits?

It depends on what state you are in. For example, it is legal in Missouri but illegal in Florida. Riverbeds are a good place to find arrowheads, but make sure it is legal.

Often, anything you find in a river is the property of the state, so it may be illegal to take anything you find. It can be illegal to dive for arrowheads without a permit.

Trespassing laws usually do not cover rivers. If the river is big enough to take a canoe down easily, it is usually legal to use the river. Check the laws in your state.

Is it legal to dig for arrowheads?

It is not legal to dig up archeological sites. Digging for artifacts on Federal land or Indian reservations is illegal under the Archaeological Resources Protection Act of 1979.

The act is there to protect sites valuable to archeologists from being dug up by amateurs who will not learn valuable archeological information. The laws also protect native cultural heritage sites. It is considered looting to dig up a burial mound.

Oddly, the laws do not apply to natural artifacts, such as dinosaur fossils. You can dig for fossils on public land. Fossils are considered paleontological rather than archeological, so the act does not apply.

Digging up burial mounds is disrespectful and illegal. You cannot dig up an area where you find human remains or assume you are likely to find them even on your own property.

It is not necessary to illegally dig up burial sites to find good arrowheads. One of the best places to find arrowheads is near rivers, where it is usually legal to look for arrowheads.

You can also find arrowheads after a flood, even a small flood that does not damage any property. When a river floods, it disturbs the ground and can uncover artifacts.

The 1979 act does not apply to private land, so it is legal to dig for arrowheads. The owner of the property must be willing to let you dig, or else you could be charged with damaging their property. You cannot dig up human burial sites even on private property.

How do the laws in Texas compare to laws in other states?

In Texas, property owners decide what happens to artifacts on their land. This reinforces the legality of digging up sites without having an archeological permit.

If you find artifacts on someone else’s property and you have permission from the owner to keep what you find, you can take and sell the arrowheads. Texas property rights mean that the owner can decide to do what they want with archeological sites on their property.

Do a lot of people look for artifacts illegally?

Yes, some antique dealers illegally dig up sites on private property to find artifacts to sell. Some even hire people to dig up sites at night. This is illegal and unethical for many reasons, including because it damages the owner’s property.

Artifacts found by archeologists are taken out of the ground carefully while collecting as much information as possible. They take detailed notes and photograph everything as it is removed from the ground.

If someone digs up a burial mound without notes and photographs, it stops being possible to learn as much about the site as archeologists could have.

Campsites are not quite the same as burial mounds. It may be more ethical or legal to dig up campsites. The best place to find arrowheads is on or near the surface.

How old are the oldest arrowheads in Texas?

Projectile points as much as 16000 years old have been found in Texas. These spear or dart points are some of the oldest tools ever found in the Americas.

This surprised the discoverers, who did not expect to find anything that old in Texas. The points are more than 2000 years older than anything previously found in the area.

How long ago people came to the Americas is not known for sure. A conservative estimate is still only about 16000 years, roughly as old as the recent finds in Texas. Most archeologists believe 20,000 years is the best estimate.

However, evidence is building up in favor of much earlier dates. There may have been people in the Americas for about twice that long.

Even how people reached the Americas is disputed. Arguably, some people reached South America from Australia and Melanesia at a very early date. Many people came from Siberia to Alaska, but other people may have reached the Americans in other ways.

Polar bears and grizzly bears are both members of the bear family, Ursidae. They are similar in many ways, but there are also some important differences between them. One key difference is size: polar bears tend to be much larger than grizzlies.

Polar Bears Vs Grizzly Bears Size

One average the Polar Bear is bigger in size than the Grizzly bear. A typical adult male polar bear is more than twice the size of a typical adult female grizzly!

Lets analyze both these beasts in terms of their weight, height & length:

Polar Bears Vs Grizzly Bears Weight

• Adult male polar bears typically weigh between 600 pounds (272 kg) and 1,500 pounds (680 kg), while adult female polar bears weigh between 330 pounds (250 kg) and 550 pounds (250 kg).
• Adult male grizzlies usually weigh between 400 pounds (181 kg) and 800 pounds (363 kg), while adult female grizzlies typically weigh 300 pounds (136 kg) to 400 pounds (181 kg).

So in terms of weight, the polar bears are heavier than grizzly bears.

Polar Bears Vs Grizzly Bears Height

On all of its four legs

• The height of the polar bear is 1.2 to 1.6 meters (4 to 5.3 feet) while that of female polar bear is 0.81 to1.19 meters (2.8 to 3.11 feet).
• The height of the male grizzly bear is 1.07 to 1.37 meters (3.6 -4.6 feet) while that of female grizzly bear is 0.91 to 1.12 meters (3 to 3.8 feet).

So in terms of shoulder height the polar bear is taller than the grizzly bear.

When Standing on its Hind Legs

• Adult Male Polar Bear Height is 2.4 to 3 meters (5.9 to 9.8 feet)
• Adult Female Polar Bear Height: 1.8 to 2.4 meters (5.9 to 7.8 feet).
• Adult Male Grizzly Bear Height: 2.13 to 2.44 meters (7 to 8 feet).
• Adult Female Grizzly Bear Height: 1.7 to 1.98 meters (5.6 to 6.6 feet).

So when the bears are standing on their hind legs, the polar is taller than the grizzly bear.

Polar Bears Vs Grizzly Bears Body Length

• The body length of a male polar bear is between 2.6 – 3 meters (8.6 to 9.10 feet) while that of female polar bear is 2.4 to 2.8 meters (7.2 to 9.2 feet).
• The body length of a male grizzly bear is between 2.13-2.44 m (7 to 8 feet) while that of female grizzly bear is 1.7-1.98 meters (5.6 to 6.6 feet).

So in terms of body length, the polar bear is taller than the grizzly bear.

The Biggest Ever Polar Bear vs The Biggest Ever Grizzly Bear

• The biggest polar bear ever recorded was in 1960 which was 3.9 meters (12.8 feet) tall and weighed around 2,209 lbs i.e 1,002 kg.
• One of the tallest grizzly bears ever recorded in captivity was called Goliath. It lived at Space Farms Zoo and Museum – Sussex, NJ between 1967 and 1991. It was 3.7 meters (12 feet) tall and weigh a short ton.

So when it comes to the biggest ever bears on record, the polar bear is bigger than the grizzly bear.

Polar Bears Vs Grizzly Bears Size Comparison

Polar Bear Grizzly Bear Male Female Male Female Weight 600-1,500 lbs 330-550 lbs 400-800 lbs 300-400 lbs Height on four legs 4 – 5.3 feet 2.8 to 3.11 feet 3.6 – 4.6 feet 3 to 3.8 feet Height on hind legs 5.9 – 9.8 feet 5.9 – 7.8 feet 7 – 8 feet 5.6 – 6.6 feet Body Length 8.6 – 9.10 feet 7.2 – 9.2 feet 7 – 8 feet 5.6 – 6.6 feet

Are polar bears bigger than grizzly bears?

Yes polar bears are bigger than grizzly bears. See the picture below to have a clear idea.

How Big is a Polar Bear

In the dynamic world of firearm innovation, two names stand out—Faxon Firearms and Q. These industry titans have embarked on a singular mission: to redefine the boundaries of ballistic performance.

Their latest collaboration has given birth to a groundbreaking round that promises to shift paradigms and set new standards. Welcome to the 8.6 Blackout journey—a testament to their quest for ballistic excellence.

Join us as we delve into this captivating blend of expertise, precision, and groundbreaking innovation.

To date here is everything you need to know about the new 8.6 Blackout round, how it compares to 300 Blackout, and the radical new barrel design by Faxon Firearms.

What is 8.6 Blackout

The 8.6 BLK round was imagined and developed by Q.

When imagining 8.6 Blackout, a good starting point is to think of 8.6 BLK as the big brother to 300 Blackout. However, it’s much more than just an upgrade on 300 BLK.

Like the 300 Blackout, the 8.6 Blackout was designed primarily for suppressed shooting, however, they also have supersonic loads in development as well.

8.6 BLK is re-imagining “energy on target” by employing a fast 1:3 twist rate (compare to common 1:7 and 1:8 twists for calibers like 5.56 NATO or 300 BLK).

Other 8.6 BLK Features

• Fits AR-10 Sized Rifles
• 338 Subsonic Load Based around the 300 grain Sierra Match King
• Similar to 338 Federal, but the case has been shortened to reliably work with gas guns without modification to mags
• Uses Standard 308 Mags
• Low-Pressure Cartridge
• Utilizes a shortened 6.5 Creedmoor case for use of subsonic and high BC projectiles
• Current Ammo Companies in Development: Gorilla, Hornady, Black Hills, and Discreet Ballistics
• Designed Around a 12″ barrel

Faxon Firearms has previously shown several 8.6 Blackout loads with a 300-grain bullet and a 210-grain Barnes TTSX bullet. These loads are still in development but should become commercially available in the foreseeable future.

How is Faxon Firearms Involved

Faxon Firearms has been privileged to work with Q on developing the best possible barrels to support this revolutionary new round.

The team at Faxon Firearms is in the development of their own 8.6 BLK barrels for both the AR-10 and Remington model 700 platforms.

Faxon Barrels for the 8.6 Blackout

Faxon Firearms will be offering 1:3 twist 8.6 Blackout barrels for Remington 700 platforms and AR-10 pattern rifles. The barrels for both platforms will be available in 8″, 12″, and 16″ length options.

Remington 700 Platform

• 8″ Light Palma, Remage style with 1:3 twist
• 12″ Light Palma, Remage style with 1:3 twist
• 16″ Light Palma, Remage style with 1:3 twist

AR-10 Platform

• 8″ Big Gunner with 1:3 twist
• 12″ Big Gunner with 1:3 twist
• 16″ Big Gunner with 1:3 twist

Faxon Firearms 8.6 BLK barrel Details

• 1:3 twist rate
• Better stabilization on long and heavy subsonic rounds
• Better expansion of the projectiles
• Re-allocates the energy from the sound and flash to the rotation of the bullet
• .875 gas block journal for AR10
• DPMS Gen 1 Pattern
• Remage style barrels from Faxon will use a Remage style nut with a standard AR-15 armorers castle nut wrench. The nut is included.

Faxon Firearms and Q is a partnership aimed at the conception and development of high-quality barrels tailored for the game-changing 8.6 Blackout (8.6 BLK) round. This alliance signifies a harmonious fusion of expertise and vision, paving the way for a new benchmark in ballistic performance.

The hallmark of these 8.6 BLK barrels is the pioneering 1:3 twist rate, an impressive feature that harnesses the power of rotational energy, optimizing the force transferred on impact. The result? An unparalleled surge of energy on-target that promises unrivaled precision.

True to Faxon’s commitment to excellence, the creation of each 8.6 BLK barrel is a meticulous journey. Beginning life as raw bar stock at our state-of-the-art facility in Cincinnati, every barrel undergoes a stringent production process. This includes a full stress-relief treatment to ensure structural integrity and rigorous air-gauge testing to maintain the tightest tolerances. Moreover, the Magnetic Particle Inspection (MPI) process adds an extra layer of assurance, detecting any imperfections, while an 11-degree target crown is employed to guarantee the apex of accuracy.

The choice of material speaks volumes about Faxon’s unwavering commitment to quality. Fabricated from the robust 4150 CMV, the barrels promise durability and resilience. Each undergoes a series of exhaustive tests through its production cycle and is eventually finished in a protective Nitride layer. This not only enhances the barrel’s longevity but also ensures it stands up to the demands of even the most avid shooter.

But Faxon’s promise doesn’t stop at quality craftsmanship. Each of our barrels undergoes an individual headspace check, assessed using precision custom-hardened gauges, a testament to our dedication to ensuring that every product that leaves our facility is of the highest standard. And to further solidify our commitment, every Faxon Barrel comes with a Lifetime Guarantee, ensuring peace of mind for our customers, and recognizing the trust they place in our brand.

In partnering with Q and presenting the 8.6 BLK barrels, Faxon Firearms proudly reiterates its pledge to innovation, precision, and unmatched quality. Join us on this exciting trajectory into the future of ballistics.

Why is the 1:3 Twist Rate Important

Faxon Firearms is manufacturing the barrels for these 8.6 Blackout loads. These barrels are not by any means your standard rifle barrel. Designing and manufacturing them can be a challenge, but Faxon Firearms has confidently stepped up to the plate. In order to properly stabilize the long and heavy 300-grain subsonic projectiles, the 8.6 blackout barrels have a 1:3 twist rate!

That means the round is making one full rotation every three inches of barrel length. The bore of these new barrels look more like internal threads for a bolt or screw than rifling. This revolutionary 1:3 twist greatly enhances the energy on target of the large 8.6 blackout round.

Conventionally, energy on target has been largely concerned with linear forces.

The following video highlights the devastating difference of the energy on target with a 1:3 twist rate vs a more standard 1:7 twist.

• Top – 1:3 twist @2380fps MV with 140gr projectile
• Bottom – 1:7 twist @2380fps MV with 140gr projectile

The fast 1:3 twist rate of the 8.6 BLK is reimagining the energy on target as having a second energy delivering component; the rotational energy of a fast spinning projectile.

8.6 Blackout FAQ

What is 8.6 Blackout good for?

The 8.6 Blackout, often referred to as 8.6 BLK, is a versatile ammunition round designed primarily for short-barreled rifles and suppressed firearms. It’s particularly good for:

• Subsonic Shooting: Thanks to its design, the 8.6 BLK excels in subsonic applications, providing quieter shooting experiences when paired with suppressors, making it ideal for discrete hunting or shooting scenarios.
• Hunting: With its significant on-target energy, the 8.6 Blackout is effective for hunting medium to large game at moderate ranges.
• Compact Firepower: Given its effectiveness even in short-barreled rifles, it’s suitable for personal defense or any situation where compact firepower is advantageous.
• Ballistic Consistency: The 8.6 BLK offers a consistent ballistic profile, which aids in accurate shooting.
• Compatibility: It can be used with many platforms, including those initially designed for rounds like the .308, with just a barrel change.

In summary, the 8.6 Blackout is good for a range of shooting activities, from hunting to personal defense, especially when suppression or compact size is of importance.

What is the difference between 300 Blackout and 8.6 Blackout?

The 300 Blackout (300 BLK) and the 8.6 Blackout (8.6 BLK) are both innovative ammunition rounds that serve distinct purposes. Here’s a breakdown of their key differences:

• Caliber Size:
  • The 300 Blackout is a .30 caliber round, effectively a 7.62mm projectile.
  • The 8.6 Blackout, on the other hand, is an 8.6mm projectile, which makes it larger in diameter and typically heavier.
• Primary Use:
  • The 300 BLK was developed primarily for enhanced performance in short-barreled rifles with the added benefit of being optimized for suppressor use, making it a choice round for tactical scenarios.
  • The 8.6 BLK is tailored for short-barreled rifles and suppressed firearms, designed especially for subsonic shooting and medium-to-large game hunting.
• Bullet Weight:
  • 300 BLK rounds typically weigh between 110 to 220 grains, with the heavier bullets often being subsonic.
  • 8.6 BLK rounds are generally heavier due to their larger diameter, contributing to their ability to retain energy at subsonic velocities.
• Origin and Development:
  • The 300 BLK was developed to provide a more effective round for military operations in close-quarters scenarios without needing a change in the rifle platform, just a barrel swap.
  • The 8.6 BLK is a more recent innovation, building upon the principles of the 300 BLK but catering to a different set of shooting and hunting needs.
• Platform Compatibility:
  • While both rounds can often be used in platforms designed for other cartridges with just a barrel change, the 300 BLK is frequently associated with the AR-15 platform.
  • The 8.6 BLK, due to its size and characteristics, is more closely associated with platforms like those designed for the .308.

In summary, while both the 300 Blackout and 8.6 Blackout share some similarities in their goals for performance in specific firearms, they differ in caliber, intended use, weight, and platform compatibility.

Conclusion

As we’ve journeyed through the intricacies of the 8.6 Blackout’s development, it becomes evident that this isn’t just a round—it’s a symbol of relentless pursuit for perfection by Faxon Firearms and Q.

As enthusiasts, collectors, or industry professionals, it’s our prerogative to embrace and support such groundbreaking innovations. Let’s not just be passive observers. Be a part of this evolution. Test, adapt, and share your experiences with the 8.6 Blackout.

Together, we can usher in a new era of firearm excellence. Dive in, get involved, and let’s shape the future of ballistics together.

For more information, visit: FaxonFirearms.com/86BLK

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Finding Your Ideal Baitcasting Reel: A Buyer’s Guide

Baitcasting reels are an essential piece of equipment for any serious fisherman. These reels are designed to give anglers greater control over their casts. They are typically used for targeting larger fish species, such as bass, musky and pike. Unlike spinning reels, which are designed to be easy to use, baitcasting reels require a bit more skill to operate. With practice, however, you can achieve greater casting distance and accuracy.

While the right baitcasting reel can help you cast further with greater accuracy, with so many different models and brands available, it can be difficult to know what to look for when selecting your new reel. In this buyer’s guide, we’ll go through each of the key features you should consider when choosing a baitcasting reel, so you can make an informed decision.

How To Choose the Right Baitcasting Reel

Gear ratio

The gear ratio is the number of times the spool rotates for each turn of the handle. It determines how quickly you can retrieve your line and how much power you have when reeling in a fish. A higher gear ratio means a faster retrieve, but with less power. A lower gear ratio means slower retrieval but more power. When choosing a gear ratio, consider the type of fishing you’ll be doing and the size of the fish you’re targeting.

Line capacity

Line capacity refers to the amount of fishing line the spool can hold. It’s important to choose a reel with enough line capacity for the type of fishing you’ll be doing. For example, if you’ll be fishing in deeper waters or targeting larger fish, you’ll need a reel with a higher line capacity.

Drag system

The drag system determines how much resistance the fish feels when it pulls on the line. A good drag system is essential for reeling larger fish without breaking your line. Look for a reel with a smooth drag system that’s easy to adjust.

Bearings

Bearings are important for smooth operation and the longevity of the reel. The more bearings a reel has, the smoother it will operate. Opt for a reel with high-quality bearings that are corrosion-resistant.

Brake system

The brake system is designed to prevent backlash and ensure accurate casting. There are two types of brake systems: magnetic and centrifugal. Magnetic brakes are easier to adjust but may not be as effective in windy conditions. Centrifugal brakes are more effective in windy conditions but may be harder to adjust.

Handle material and grip

The handle material and grip are important for comfort and control. Look for a reel with a comfortable grip that’s easy to hold, even when wet. Handles made from materials like cork or EVA foam are popular choices.

Frame and body construction

The frame and body construction of a baitcasting reel can affect its durability and weight. Look for a reel with a lightweight but strong frame and body. Materials like aluminum and graphite are popular choices for high-quality reels.

Weight distribution

The weight distribution of a reel can affect how it feels in your hand and how easy it is to cast. Look for a reel with a balanced weight distribution that feels comfortable to hold and cast.

Anti-reverse system

An anti-reverse system is designed to prevent the handle from turning backward when you’re reeling in a fish. This can help you maintain tension on the line and prevent the fish from escaping. Look for a reel with a high-quality anti-reverse system that’s easy to engage and disengage.

Line guide system

The line guide system helps prevent your line from tangling and ensures smooth casting. Look for a reel with a high-quality line guide system that’s easy to adjust.

Price point

Baitcasting reels can range in price from less than $50 to several hundred dollars. While a more expensive reel may offer better features and durability, it’s important to choose a reel that meets your needs and fits your budget.

Brand reputation and customer reviews

When choosing a baitcasting reel, it’s important to consider the reputation of the brand and read customer reviews. Look for a brand with a good reputation for quality and customer service. Reading customer reviews can give you an idea of how well the reel performs in real-world fishing situations.

It is a fair assumption that most people who shoot rarely consider shot string. Yes, they may think of the pattern and the speed at which it travels. But the pattern to most mind’s eyes is a plate-shaped circle, with hopefully not too many holes in it.

This is precisely what you see when you test a gun on a pattern plate. You get a pretty good idea of how your gun and cartridge combination are performing. But not entirely. For as the pellets fly through the air, they not only do so in the shape of an ever-widening plate but in a long string which extends in flight. In approximate terms it can be around 5 feet in length at 20 yards extending to 8 feet at 30 yards.

The variation is as a result of deformation of pellets as they pass along the barrel. Those at the bottom of the load in the cartridge will suffer most, as a consequence of which their flight will not be true, nor will they travel at quite the same speed as the front end of the load which will consist of still fairly perfectly spherical pellets.

In effect you are sending a column of pellets in front of the intended target. I’m not normally in favour of getting too bogged down in the technicalities of ballistics, I am more interested in getting the string to the right spot. But I do think that it is useful to understand the dynamics of shot string, as it can give you more confidence in placing your shot ahead of a crossing bird. Ideally you will connect with the centre of the string, where there will be a good concentration of pellets. But you can give a little more forward allowance than you might think is necessary, and the shot string will look after you. Not to mention a good spread of pellets across a 30” circle. Basically it’s a wonder we ever miss!

Of course we are talking about a shot charge travelling at 1100fps, so it’s not as simple as it sounds, but nevertheless an understanding of the dynamics of the content of your cartridge can only help.

The quality of the cartridge can also make a difference. It is worth trying a few different makes to find which one is the most compatible with your gun. Performance can vary. Generally, as with most things in life, the more expensive cartridges are better, but it may well be that the ‘own brand’ cheapies from your local farm shop will do the trick. Once you have found what suits you then stick with it.

Then provided your gun fits you properly, your confidence with your chosen cartridge will blossom. You will not be filled with doubt about your combination – you can just get on with your shooting. The odd misses will be inevitable – forget them. It’s the next shot that counts. Have confidence.

It’s behind you!

Many of you will enjoy some partridge shooting in the coming weeks. Footwork is crucial for all shooting, but for low ground partridge never more so.

We all know the shot. The guns are lined out about 30-40 yards back from a tall hedgerow. The birds appear as if from nowhere. Ideally you take your shot in front, but miss with your first barrel, then attempt to take a bird as it retreats into the distance behind you. Miss! And you end up practically tied up in knots.

Just why are those birds behind you so difficult? I am often asked this question and the answer is quite simple. Footwork.

The speed at which the birds approach induces a degree of panic, but in reality there is a lot more time than you think. We all know that when you shoot a bird in front, for a right hander your left leading foot will be pointing in the direction of where you intend to take the shot. The same applies to any shot. So you have to move your body to get into position. You simply need to be alert to what is happening.

Let’s go back to the beginning. You arrive at your peg for the drive. From this moment you need to be focused. Forget about chatting to the guy at the next peg, or fiddling with your gunslip, sorting cartridges or talking to your dog. Get ready, look around you for any possible picker-ups or other hazards behind you. Get loaded and be fully tuned for what’s happening. Otherwise if an early covey bursts over the hedgerow, you may miss a chance of a good right & left, that might well be your only opportunity of the day. If you are chatting with your neighbouring Gun, this is also an insult to your host. So be ready.

Keep a sharp lookout from where you expect the first birds to appear. Your shot in front will be practically, move, mount shoot. There is no conscious effort to give lead. Your gun speed will do what’s needed providing you have the gun properly mounted and are looking at the bird’s beak.

But should you miss, don’t simply follow it. Turn, with your gun down but muzzles pointing safely upwards. Let your feet take the body round so that your leading leg is pointing towards the bird, your eyes fixed on it, then mount onto it and shoot.

If however there is gale blowing, and the bird is quartering between you and the next Gun, this really can be a tricky shot. It might well be 45 yards out before you are able to pull the trigger. On a grouse moor this can be exaggerated. I was out in a strong wind in September, and a quartering bird behind the line was at least 60 yards distant by the time you could safely pick it up. It was therefore paramount to shoot in front.

For most of these shots your body and feet need to be turned, so that you can pick up the bird with your gun muzzle at least 30 degrees past the line of the Guns.

If you are still standing with your body facing frontwards, and then turn and twist without moving your feet then you will be lucky indeed to connect with anything.

An easy analogy can be made with cricketers and tennis players. In order to make a good shot they get their feet and body into position before striking the ball. The really good players seem to have so much more time.

The same applies to shooting. Keep your cool and give yourself time. If you feel the shot must be taken behind, adjust your feet and turn round on your peg so that the point of taking the shot the body is completely comfortable.

Of course the same applies to high crossing pheasants, but the whole procedure is exaggerated with hedgerow partridges.