Virtually everything you need to know about game meat from securing it, to how long the supply will last, to preserving it and turning it into delicious meals for your family.

It’s estimated that over 40 million hunters and anglers in the United States and Canada harvest protein from rivers, lakes, streams, fields, and forests every year. These game meats are not only an integral part of self-reliance but also a sustainable and economical way to harvest healthy meats for you and your family.

The first year my husband went deer hunting, I was beside myself when he brought the meat home. I wasn’t sure how to prepare it and my resources were very limited over a decade ago. It took a lot of trial and error to figure out what to do with it.

I was kind of hesitant to even try it. I find that when I’m unfamiliar with something, I tend to shy away from it. But, it was a lot of meat to just let sit in the freezer for a rainy day, and well… we weren’t made of money. So, I found an old recipe book that was my grandfather’s and tried it.

And, I was instantly impressed. Nothing, I mean nothing, compares to the flavor of venison. I much prefer it to beef. My oldest won’t even eat beef, only venison. And then we started expanding into other game meats and I was equally impressed.

While it takes a lot of hard work, you can acquire all of your meat from wild game and never buy meat again. But, if you’re like me and unsure, I’m here to help guide you through everything from defining game meat, going through flavor palates, preparing and preserving meat, figuring out how much your meat will make recipes, and more.

What is considered game meat?

Game meat is traditionally the flesh harvested from any non-domesticated land mammal, bird, or aquatic mammal that is legally hunted for personal consumption. However, many traditional game species are reared on ranches and harvested for commercial sale or even reared on backyard farms and homesteads around the world.

In short, animals that are typically farmed such as bovine, domestic swine, goats, sheep, and domestic fowl are excluded but most others can be considered game, even if they were reared by humans. In some specialized markets, game meats can be found for sale. This is becoming more and more common as people start to shy away from traditional, domesticated animals for food.

Why is it called game meat?

As I mentioned, game is traditionally hunted. Hunting is considered a sport because it tests the skill and ability of the hunter.

The word game is derived from the Old English word “gamen” which means joy, amusement, sport, or merriment. And since, traditionally, game is hunted it falls under the category of sport.

Common game meat in North America

Types of game meat vary based on your geographic location and there are thousands of animals worldwide that can be harvested for meat. In North America, some of the most common game species are:

Venison

Derived from the Latin word “to hunt” the term venison used to be used to describe any type of game meat including deer, rabbits, wild boar, and more. But, today, this term is used to describe the muscles and organs of any type of deer or antelope including, but not limited to, whitetail, elk, moose, and caribou.

Venison is delicious and flavorful. Nothing like bovine, it has a more earthy and rich flavor. It is also much leaner than domestic red meat and can be dry, especially if it is not cooked properly.

Rabbit

Rabbit meat is often described as being chicken-like in flavor, but it isn’t. While the flavor is mild, it’s also richer. This meat, like many game meats, can dry out quickly as well due to its leanness.

Duck

Duck is probably one of my favorite meats, coming in a close second to venison. It tastes absolutely nothing like chicken. In fact, by culinary standards, it’s often considered red meat despite the fact that scientifically speaking, it’s white.

Duck meat is very rich in flavor and duck breasts are actually fantastic cooked to rare.

Bear

If you’re lucky enough to live in an area where bear, especially black bear, is abundant enough to have a legal hunting season, you may enjoy this meat.

Bear meat is red meat, albeit slightly lighter than venison or beef. Bear meat has been compared to the flavor of venison, though chewier and slightly sweeter. It is typically slow-cooked because it can be quite tough.

Bison

Another favorite of mine is bison. Very lean, much like venison, but very delicious. The flavor of bison is much milder, while still being earthy than that of venison with very little “gamey” flavor going on at all.

Bison meat is a little more coarse than beef, and a. little sweeter, but the flavors are similar.

Squirrel

Some folks are taken aback at the idea of eating squirrels, much like rabbits. But it’s estimated over 1.8 million Americans hunt and cook this chicken of the woods. You do have to harvest several to make a decent meal if you have many people that you’re serving, but it can be worth your while.

Like rabbit, squirrel is often described as tasting like chicken, and that’s marginally true. Milder than rabbit, but not quite like chicken. However, due to diet, squirrels actually have a slightly nutty, sweet flavor and the texture is fine.

Beaver

Yep, people eat beaver. Who knew?

Beaver meat is not something I’ve personally tried, but it is described as being quite tough and stringy and very “gamey” in flavor. It’s not something a lot of people seem to like, but others swear by it and say it tastes similar to pork.

Wild Boar

Wild boar is nothing like its domestic cousin. It’s much leaner, higher in protein, and lower in cholesterol.

It has a flavor that can’t really be compared to other meats. The flavor is quite strong, rich, and nutty. The meat is juicy and is often described as a cross between beef and pork, but make no mistake, it doesn’t taste anything like domesticated swine meat.

Goose

Like duck, goose is considered a red meat by culinary terms, but scientifically is a white meat.

The flavor of goose is incredibly rich, comparable to a rare roast beef… but better. Also like duck meat, it is quite fatty, so there are a lot of natural flavors to it and it doesn’t need a lot added to it, unlike chicken.

Alligator

Known in the bayou as the chicken of the swamp, alligator is mild, white meat with a firm texture. It has a flavor similar to that of chicken, but more flavorful with a slightly fishy flavor.

Quail

Quail are quite small, but they have a good meat-to-bone ratio. In fact, the bones are so small, that they’re not typically removed but actually consumed along with the meat.

Quail has a similar flavor to chicken, but is better than most commercially raised chicken as it is richer and more flavorful.

Pheasant

The texture of the pheasant is like most poultry and the flavor is similar to chicken. However, it has a slightly “gamey” undertone with a mild smokey flavor.

Why eat game meat?

Game meat is an excellent choice for so many reasons. It’s healthier, it’s more sustainable, it’s more challenging to procure, it reduces your dependency on failing food systems, and so much more. So… what are the benefits of eating wild game?

It’s Healthy

Wild game is incredibly healthy. It’s much leaner than traditional, domesticated meats. If you put a meatloaf made from ground beef and another made from venison or bison in the oven… you’ll see all the fat at the bottom of the beef pan while the game meatloaf will not have much at all. A surefire way to tell, it’s virtually fat-free (in comparison).

Game meats are also very high in omega-3 fatty acids, an essential component of a healthy diet. According to a study done by Purdue University, their omega 3 to omega 6 ratio is also lower than grain-fed domesticated animals. This is beneficial because if that ratio is too high, it can increase inflammatory responses linked to chronic disease.

These meats were traditionally consumed by hunter-gatherer populations and this study shows that it’s not how much fat you consume, but rather the overall ratio of fats.

Wild game also has high amounts of essential vitamins and minerals such as iron, selenium, zinc, beta carotene, B6, and niacin.

It’s Natural- Antibiotic and Hormone Free

Game meat is harvested from its natural habitats, which means its diet is natural as well.

The meat isn’t farmed to grow fast and beefy, so no hormones are used.

Studies have shown that antibiotic treatment of animals can negatively affect the natural flora in the human gut. Wild game isn’t in need of antibiotics to avoid or treat infections, which means that you don’t have the concern.

It grew in its natural environment, eating its natural diet without human intervention, which, to most of us is a good thing.

It Tastes Better

I’ve known a lot of people to say game meat tastes, well, “gamey” but that’s simply because we’ve spent so long eating grain-fed meats that we don’t know to appreciate the flavor of natural meats.

Game meats have a unique and distinct flavor that is solely from their diet. Ruminants of any kind were never meant to consume grain, but since most domesticated animals are fed grain, it changes the flavor and we’ve gotten used to it instead of the flavor of an animal with a natural diet.

And for most folks, expanding your palette and enjoying the flavor of wild game just takes a little knowledge on how to properly prepare the meat. Most meats are fantastic, tastier, alternatives to more widely known and consumed meats.

It Is Environmentally Friendly

By eating wild game you reduce your carbon footprint. Most animals are harvested locally making the food miles from field to fork very few.

Hunting wild game is conservation and not enough people talk about how beneficial it is. Hunting has a positive effect on the ecology of our natural landscapes. Without hunting, populations would increase out of control to unsustainable levels.

And hunting helps keep natural woodlands and wetlands from being destroyed and conserves natural flora and gives wild bird populations more food allowing their populations to increase.

It’s Sustainable and Self Sufficient

We’ve all, unfortunately, seen the effects of a broken link in our food systems. Grocery store shelves can quickly become barren if even one element in that precarious system is broken down in some form.

However, hunting is a sustainable way to provide protein for you and your family. As I mentioned, it helps conserve natural resources but it also is something that you can do for you and your family to provide at least part of your protein without the detrimental effects of modern, commercial farm practices.

It’s Affordable

While hunting licenses and a bit of gear can cost money, it’s relatively inexpensive and gear doesn’t have to be fancy. Even if you do spend a good amount on the gear, it’s going to pay for itself in no time and you can use that gear for years.

Think about the cost of beef per pound from your local farmer’s market. Then consider the cost of a license and a bow and some arrows, and possibly a tree stand or hunting blind (and maybe some training and targets). You’ll spend less than you would to purchase a whole cow.

Low Risk of Food-Borne Illness

Commercially produced meats are often fed unnatural diets and crammed into spaces putting them at high risk for disease. Then, the meat is taken to the processing plant and the germs are spread all around the plant only to be packaged and brought home to put in your refrigerator.

In fact, a study done by consumer reports found that 97% of chicken contained bacteria that could make you sick. And another study by the center for science in the public interest found that beef is one of the riskiest meats to put in your fridge.

But you don’t have those worries so much with wild game since it lived a natural life, it’s probably healthy. Handling it properly should always be the first and foremost priority and knowing how to properly process it yourself or finding a reputable, small processing plant essential. But the risk is far less than with grocery store meats.

No Additives

Remember pink slime? It’s a filler that, for a short time, wasn’t used due to public pressure. But it didn’t last long.

This product is full of ammonia and is used as a filler in poultry and beef products to help reduce the risk of e. coli in these meats. And then that toxic chemical can slowly build up in the consumer’s system… Think about it.

No worries for pink slime or “saline solution” to increase weight, appearance, and safety in wild game, though.

What is the healthiest game meat?

Game meat of any type is very healthy, especially when compared to common commercial meats like beef. Wild game meat has more omega-3 fatty acids, it is leaner, lower fat, and has lower calories per 100 grams than most commercial meats.

How long will my game meat supply last?

Believe it or not, you can subsist on game meats year-round and never purchase meat again. In fact, it’s a goal of ours to transition to 100% wild game at some point in the future save some sausage casings and pork fat.

That being said, it will take a lot of work and dedication to keep your freezer and pantry full of meat. You can use game meats to help decrease your grocery bill, or you can slowly, but completely, transition to game meats and not have to purchase commercial meat again.

It’s certainly healthier and more sustainable than purchasing commercial meats, even if you’re purchasing those meats from a local, small farm. Which, you definitely should be doing, regardless.

When thinking about the possibility of supplementing or completely switching over to game the question of how much meat you need arises. And, of course, that answer can vary wildly. It’s highly dependent on how much meat you and your family consume each day, how often you feed guests, how often you won’t be eating meat from your harvest due to travel or eating elsewhere, and lastly whether you utilize nose-to-tail eating or only consume the cuts you enjoy.

The table provided below will give you a few ballpark estimates. This table is based off of the average serving size per person, with large game serving sizes being smaller than small game. These are the average weights of meat harvested off of each animal, which will always vary slightly. You can increase the weight yielded if you choose to utilize the entire animal, organ meats, less desirable cuts, etc. But, this can give you an idea:

How do I obtain game meat?

Traditionally, you would, of course, hunt for it. But, times have changed, and as consumer demand increases for more sustainable, natural, and environmentally friendly meats so have production processes.

While selling wild game is illegal, selling game meats that are farmed and processed at a USDA processing plant is not.

Game meats are becoming more and more common on supermarket shelves. While these meats aren’t wild, they are typically ethically grown and allowed natural diets on large ranches. They’re not fattened up with grains and are not given all types of hormones and antibiotics.

You can also oftentimes put your name on a list for a local processor. Many times hunters don’t pick up their meat for one reason or another. You can often get wild harvested game from a local processor for the cost of processing the meat.

Another option, if you’re comfortable and your local laws allow it, is to harvest road kill. While the process of doing this is very time sensitive and dependent on how much of the animal was struck, we’ve personally harvested several bucks off of the highway. If you’re in the area when the accident occurs, you know the meat is fresh and if the entire animal wasn’t side-struck much of the meat may be salvageable. This all depends on your comfort level and local laws, though.

Hunting game meat

Hunting game meat is the traditional method but rules and regulations vary by state. Sometimes, these rules even vary by county or even by hunting zones. I strongly suggest you look up your local rules, regulations, and seasons for your particular area.

Poaching isn’t cool, nor is it necessary. Seasons and bag limits are implemented for numerous reasons. One is to avoid nesting and mating seasons so that the population can reproduce, keeping levels where they need to be. Another is to avoid over-harvesting a particular population conserving it for future hunters and maintaining ecology.

Hunting licenses aren’t very expensive and they help pay to conserve natural wildlife habitats. In fact, without these dollars, it wouldn’t be easy to pay for the maintenance and purchase of wildlife habitats. These licenses also help local fish and wildlife districts know how many hunters and anglers there are which helps them set bag limits accordingly to conserve populations.

So make sure to contact your local Department of Natural Resources of Fish and Wildlife Division to be sure you know what’s legal and what isn’t.

Some states require hunter’s education courses, some allow some weapons and not others, some areas the bag limit will be higher than in others. How many antlered vs antlerless deer you can harvest can vary and more. It’s really dependent on your area.

Hunting is rewarding, though, and a skill I believe everyone should have at least a basic knowledge of. It allows you to provide protein for yourself and your family for just a little bit of money… but it can, and often does, take a lot of time.

Depending on the game you plan to hunt will determine the equipment you need. It’s often helpful to find a more experienced hunter to show you the ropes and help you safely and successfully harvest game until you get a little more experience under your belt.

Purchasing commercially available game meat

Some folks don’t have the desire or ability to hunt game, and that’s ok. Today’s consumer demand for healthy, sustainable, natural meats has grown immensely so the availability of these meats commercially has come a long way.

Most local groceries have at least some wild game meats available, some more than others. And a lot of farmer’s markets have game meats available, making them an excellent stop to see what you can find.

Even if you can’t find these meats locally, many ranches and farms sell USDA-processed meats online and ship them country-wide. So, there are options available to you if you’d like to try these healthier protein alternatives.

How do I preserve game meat?

There are many, many ways to preserve game meat from freezing to canning, to curing. It really depends on your comfort level, your knowledge level, and what equipment you have.

Freezing Wild Game

Freezing meat is, understandably, the easiest and most widely used method for preserving game meats. Many people invest in a vacuum sealer which can help preserve frozen meats for a longer period of time.

I recommend you package meats in individual packages that reflect the amount you and your family typically eat per serving. So, you may package a pound of ground meat, four steaks, or for smaller game, the entire animal.

Canning Wild Game

You can also game meat. While this does require a pressure canner, it’s a straightforward process. I love canning meat, though because it not only frees up freezer space, it makes meals so easy. Since the meat is already cooked during the canning process, it just needs to be warmed a little and you’ve got a meal.

Canned venison is one of my favorite, shelf-stable ways to preserve it.

Curing Wild Game

Another way is to cure meats. Now, this can be things like venison summer sausage, smoked jerky, venison jerky, or smoked hams and bacon. This method requires a bit more time, a larger comfort level, some equipment, and a little more knowledge, but these foods are so tasty, that you’ll be glad you jumped into it.

How do I cook game meat?

Game meat is easy to cook, but it’s not quite the same as cooking domesticated meats. It’s leaner which means it will dry out more quickly and the flavor is slightly different, making the seasonings you use, perhaps, a bit different as well.

These things are true of almost all wild game, with a few exceptions. Cooking venison is an easy enough process, though. You’ll just want to follow a few tips.

• Allow the meat to come to room temperature before cooking, this is true of any game meat, not just red meat. By doing this, you won’t “shock” the meat which can cause it to overcook. This process will take at least an hour, depending on what you’re cooking.

• Wild game should never be overcooked. Overcooking game will produce a metallic flavor and create a very tough texture.
• Keep wild game pink and on the rare side for the best flavor. The exception being goose meat which should be cooked to a temperature of 155°F for the best flavor and texture. Bear and wild boar should also be cooked to a minimum internal temperature of 155°F to avoid potential food borne pathogens.
• Brown the surface after cooking if you’re roasting it in the oven for the best flavor.
• Allow game meat to rest about 15 minutes after cooking before serving.
• Game meat is best after cooked and not warmed up later.

What can I do with game meat? (recipes)

A lot of game meats can be swapped for more widely utilized meats like poultry, beef, and pork. As long as you follow the tips to cook it properly, you’ll be well on your way.

Instead of Chicken Use

Rabbit

Rabbit is very similar to chicken and a lot of traditional French recipes use rabbit and have more modern chicken versions of the same dish.

Rabbit can be cooked whole or separated into pieces and even deep-fried like chicken. However, it is best roasted, slow-cooked, or braised. Like this Braised Rabbit in Cream Sauce. The meat is a little tougher than chicken, especially if it’s wild-harvested meat, so slow and low is a great way to prepare it.

Quail

Quail are very small, typically serving an individual, not an entire family. But, they’re packed full of flavor that is similar, though richer, to chicken.

Most often people roast the whole bird, sometimes stuffing it. They are very lean, like most game and they cook quickly so be mindful of that when preparing. A whole bird will take about 20 minutes to cook through, which is when the meat is firm and juices run clear.

Duck

Duck is one of my favorite chicken substitutes. While it doesn’t taste a lot like chicken, it’s similar just richer.

The meat is also a little fattier, which means it doesn’t dry out as easily, making it great for beginners because it’s so much harder to dry out. I love making roasted duck, but the legs smoked and dipped in bbq are to die for as well.

Pheasant

A whole pheasant is very similar in size to a chicken, usually weighing approximate 2-3 pounds. As mentioned above, it’s very flavorful and most people like the flavor of it and don’t find it overly “gamey”.

Pheasant is best prepared by cooking it low and slow since it is much leaner than chicken. As I said, you don’t want to overcook game meats. You’ll also want to add fat to the bird or it will dry out. You’ll want to cook it at a low oven temperature or plan to frequently baste it. Cook to a temperature of 180°F.

Instead of Beef Use

Bison

Bison is an excellent choice for folks trying game meat for the first time. The flavor is unique and earthy, but mild and similar in both texture and flavor to beef.

Bison can be used in place of any dish calling for beef and the cooking method is the same except you’ll want to ensure you don’t overcook it, as it is very lean. Cooking bison to a rare to medium-rare temperature is best, you want a little pink in it.

Venison

Venison… I can’t say enough good things about it. It is by far my favorite and I’ll take a serving of venison over beef any day of the week, and so will my kids.

This meat is perfect in place of beef, prepared correctly and not overcooked it’s bursting with flavor. It’s perfect for making dishes like venison stroganoff, chili, sous vide roast or even a marinated venison steak.

In Place of Pork Use

Wild Boar

Wild boar isn’t the same as its domestic cousins, but it is very similar and the perfect substitute for domestic pork recipes.

Like most game, wild boar is best being cooked low and slow. Making pulled pork is one of my favorite ways, but you can also use the hams, make bacon, and more.

If you’re looking for ideas on how to reconnect with your food, nature, and the heritage way of life, you’ve come to the right place.

Join over 40,000 like-minded folks in my Facebook group, The Self Sufficient Life. You can join by clicking here.

The laws for hunting bobcats in Colorado still allow predator hunters to take bobcats. This article covers many of the fundamental laws you will need to know to get started. It also provides information such as seasons, harvest limits, and required permits for bobcat hunting in Colorado.

It is not a legal document and is not intended to cover all hunting laws and regulations. In 2022, Colorado introduced legislation to prohibit, among other things, bobcat hunting. That measure failed to become a law—but who knows what the next few years may bring. Hunters are encouraged to check for updates every season.

In Colorado, bobcat hunting season runs from December 1 to the end of February. A license is required. Bobcat may be hunted day or night, and there are no bag or seasonal limits.

Beginning March 1, 2021, a youth small game license, a furbearer license, or a furbearer harvest permit in addition to any variation of a small game license or small game and fishing combination license is required to take those species defined as furbearers, except coyotes.

Purchase a Colorado hunting license here.

Check out the Colorado hunting seasons.

First time hunting bobcats? Check out my article on the three vital tips for a successful bobcat hunt.

Did you know you can hunt coyotes in Colorado? Read this article on the laws for hunting coyotes in Colorado.

Related: Learn the rules for fox hunting in Colorado.

General laws for hunting bobcats in Colorado.

Hunting hours.

Legal times to hunt small game and/or waterfowl are one- half hour before sunrise to sunset.

An exception is made for furbearers, which can be hunted from one-half hour before sunrise to one-half hour after sunset. Raccoons, coyotes, bobcats, striped skunks, beavers and red, gray or swift foxes can be hunted at night.

See Furbearers under Small-Game Hunting Laws on page 5 for details.

Related: Need access to more properties? Find out how to ask for permission here.

Using artificial light when hunting bobcats in Colorado.

Can you use artificial light when hunting bobcats in Colorado while on private land?

Artificial light (private land) may be used at night to take beaver, bobcat, coyote, gray fox, raccoon, red fox, striped skunk and swift fox on private land with written permission of the landowner, designated agent, lessee, or authorized employee.

Related: Going the budget route? Make sure you pick the right color lens.

Related: Infrared riflescopes for new predator hunter good for 200 yards? Check out this article.

Related: Thinking you want a low budget thermal good for 150 yards? Check out this article.

Callers and decoys. Are permitted for bobcat hunting.

While electronic callers are expensive, mouth and hand callers are less pricey but take time to learn how to use.

Read this article and watch the video to learn how to use a closed reed rabbit squealer.

You can read about some highly effective but inexpensive ($20) decoys here.

You can check Amazon’s price list for callers and decoys here.

NOTE: SMART RIFLES are prohibited, including any firearm equipped with a target tracking system, electronically controlled, assisted, computer-linked trigger, or a ballistics computer. Any gun equipped with a computer processor scope is considered a smart rifle.

Can you use artificial light when bobcats hunting in Colorado on public land?

Artificial light (public land) may be used at night to take beaver, bobcat, coyote, gray fox, raccoon, red fox, striped skunk and swift fox on public lands by permit only, as follows:

a. Each permit shall be valid only for the time, species, and location specified on the permit. No permit will be valid during any deer, elk or pronghorn rifle season or during the 24-hour period prior to the opening weekend; nor during the opening weekend of any grouse, pheasant, quail, turkey or waterfowl season in those areas where such seasons are in progress.

b. An artificial light which is permanently attached to, or projected from within a vehicle is prohibited.

c. Taking shall not be permitted within 500 yards of a dwelling, building, or other structure, or in any area of public concentration where human safety would be jeopardized.

d. Such permit shall be carried while hunting and available for inspection upon demand.

e. Area wildlife managers and district wildlife managers may deny a permit where there is a potential that night hunting activities may result in significant adverse impact on wildlife resources by causing movement of large numbers of big game or otherwise.

Provided further that night hunting permits for bobcat will not be issued on public lands in the Canada lynx recovery area where Canada lynx are known to be present. When one Canada lynx has been taken by a bobcat hunter during the current year’s hunting season no night hunting permits for bobcat will be issued for the remainder of the calendar year in the Canada lynx recovery area or in the area outside the Canada lynx recovery area where the Canada lynx was taken. In such instance, any night hunting permits for bobcat already issued under this provision shall be terminated.

f. A permit shall not be required of any person, member of the person’s family, lessee, designated agent, authorized employee, or identified designee with written authorization when necessary to protect such person’s property. Refer to Chapter W- 17, Damage Caused by Wildlife for applicable regulations.

Pelt sealing requirements for Colorado.

Special Restrictions.a. All bobcat, or their pelts, shall be personally presented by the licensee for inspection and must be sealed within 30 days after take, or within 5 days after the close of the season, whichever is sooner, with a seal provided by the Division. Any bobcat hide/pelt not having a seal within 5 days after the close of the season shall be illegal and become property of the State. Seals will only be placed on bobcat legally taken in Colorado. No fee shall be required for the inspection and issuance of a legal possession seal, which shall remain attached to the hide until processed. Bobcat hides/pelts shall not be transported, shipped or otherwise taken out of Colorado until the hide(s)/pelt(s) are inspected and sealed. The legal possession seal, when attached to the bobcat or the pelt, shall authorize possession, transportation, and sale thereof. For the purposes of this regulation it is illegal to buy, sell, trade, or barter an untanned bobcat hide/pelt unless a permanent seal is affixed thereto. Only one legal possession seal shall be provided for each hide/pelt.

Raccoons are common cohabitors with humans all across North America. These large and furry critters are definitely charming, at least when they are at rest, thanks to their dusky gray fur, iconic black mask, and ringed, puffy tail.

And those little paws that are so much like hands in their dexterity!

Precious, but these mobile mammalian miscreants have something of an unsavory reputation thanks to their propensity for breaking into trash, sheds, and even homes in search of food, even stealing it right out the bowls of our pets. The nerve of these procyons!

Unlike most other mammalian pests raccoons represent something of a challenge when it comes time to get rid of them, or relocate them.

This is due to their high intelligence, dexterity, and persistence which put most other animals to shame.

You can find hours and hours of video content on YouTube and elsewhere chronicling people’s trials and tribulations attempting to catch or otherwise dispatch these clever adversaries.

But as it turns out raccoons do have one weakness, an Achilles’ heel you might say. They love food, really love it.

Since they are so preoccupied with obtaining choice and delicious fare it is easy to manipulate raccoons into a trap or a spot where they are easy to dispatch by luring them with the right bait. In this article, we will share with you 10 foods that make ideal raccoon bait.

Know Your Enemy

Before you can set off placing bait for any animal you want to catch, it is beneficial to know a little bit about its behaviors, preferences, and food acquisition strategies.

Raccoons are absolutely voracious and vigorous pilferers of any sort of food stuff that they have access to, from the leftovers and kitchen scraps and trash cans to a bowl of dog or kitty litter left out for the family pet. Nothing seems to be safe or beyond interest for these furry thieves!

That is because raccoons are omnivorous, and indeed might be one of the most omnivorous animals on Earth.

This means that they eat a varied and mixed diet, consisting of animal, insect, and plant matter. Worms and insects are favorites as are aquatic items like crayfish.

That being said, raccoons are noted through study as developing strong individual preferences for food, and in social settings, raccoons occupying a given area will strongly gravitate towards foods typical in that area.

Urbanized raccoons will develop a fondness for human food and often pet food. Raccoons living in more remote places will eat a mixed diet of insects, worms, nuts, berries, and other natural fares.

Though they do not take larger live prey often if ever, they will happily scavenge from carcasses or found sources of animal protein.

Curiously, raccoons always show a strong preference for very moist food and even indulge in what is known as “washing” behavior when they have a water source nearby: they dip and rub their food in water before consuming it.

If you notice a strong bias towards wet, moist, and juicy food on our list below, you’ll now know why!

Raccoons are also highly motivated by scent, and that means the more fragrance that is generated the more appetizing and irresistible it will be for the raccoon in question.

This means that foods that are oily, stinky, or otherwise known for potent fragrance will be your best bet much of the time. Class dismissed, let’s get to the list.

The Best Raccoon Baits You Can Use

1. Marshmallows

Believe it or not, quite a few pest control professionals and several raccoon-catching experts will advocate the use of marshmallows for catching raccoons in suburban and urban areas.

First, these raccoons usually take up with sugary, sweet human foods pretty quickly and some folks even postulate the bright white coloring of the marshmallow catches moonlight at night when raccoons are most active, arousing their curiosity since they might mistake it for bird or reptile eggs, one of their most commonly poached food items in the wild.

If you want to try marshmallows for nabbing a raccoon lurking around your property, you should try both the small, button-sized ones and the larger, extra fluffy ones.

The raccoons might show a preference for one or the other, or they might not, but you should not underestimate how many a raccoon could eat in a short time.

You might need a backup bag to keep enticing them, and remember that raccoons are social, so they are likely to be traveling with friends!

2. Sardines

It is harder to think of a food it is more intensely, ah, flavored and more pungent than sardines.

These cans of tiny fish are definitely a love it or hate it delicacy among humans, and a surefire way to start a fight on pizza night is to include them on a pie intended for sharing.

Nonetheless, raccoons that are acclimatized to aquatic foodstuffs will find them utterly irresistible.

As mentioned above, raccoons have a preference for moist and highly odorific food and sardines check both of those boxes with big, bold red markers.

Sardines will dry out reasonably quickly when removed from their can, so consider dumping them out into a bowl or small dish that will help keep them moist.

Additionally, the larger the surface area that you can provide for their oil will only increase the loft or throw of the scent, increasing the chances that the raccoon will detect it sooner.

3. Peanut Butter

There hardly seems to be a mammal you cannot catch with peanut butter. Mice and rats love it, dogs love it, and as it turns out raccoons lose their minds for the stuff.

This is because the raccoons have always displayed a strong preference for acorns, walnuts, and other nuts throughout history and they are a staple foodstuff for wild raccoons that have not been exposed to human activity or human trash.

You can easily exploit this baked-in preference for delicious nuts by using peanut butter as bait.

Yes, I know that peanuts aren’t real nuts, but they are not analogs as far as food is concerned and are packed with protein and fat which means raccoons will love them.

Peanut butter always has an advantage as bait because it is cheap, and plentiful and the smell won’t drive you out of your mind. It is also easy to set up in or around a trap in any way that might be desired.

4. Roasted Poultry

Roasted poultry is fine raccoon bait, and smells just as appetizing to them as it does to us.

Contrary to legend, it is a vanishing rarity that a raccoon could ever catch and eat a live bird if it was even to attempt at all, though they are in veteran consumers of both bird and reptile eggs as mentioned above.

That being said, you will not find a raccoon in the land that will turn down a delicious dinner of roasted turkey or chicken.

You can use scraps of meat from your own meal, old leftovers that you were going to throw out anyway or even cold cuts from the deli counter that you heat up and slather with a little broth or gravy.

All you need to remember is that raccoons show a strong preference for wet or moist food, so don’t let it dry out and you’ll ensure that the scent stays on the wind and the raccoons will be drawn in like moths to a flame.

5. Roasted Pork

Similar to the roasted poultry entry above, there is just something about a roasted ham slice that raccoons cannot resist. And who can blame them!

Pork is fatty, salty, and delicious according to most human methods of preparation, and the same characteristics that make pork desirable to us mean it will be desirable to the masked bandits.

You have all sorts of ways to prepare pork and any one of them will do fine for raccoon catching so long as you follow the guidelines.

Scraps of pork pulled from a whole hog that has been barbecued are ideal, as are thick-cut ham steaks, something the raccoon can really sink its teeth into.

But you could use thicker dinner cut pork slices, pork chops, or even thin-sliced deli ham. Just remember to keep it moist one way or the other and it won’t be long before your guests show up.

6. Tuna

By now you probably saw the heading for this entry and nodded to yourself: “Yep, that’s good raccoon bait!”.

And you’d be right because tuna is fish, which raccoons typically love, stinky and wet and just the way they like it.

This makes tuna a triple threat for raccoons that works about as well as a mind-control spell. They cannot help themselves!

Tuna has a major advantage for catching raccoons in that typically wild raccoons as well as urbanized ones both enjoy it, so if you are ever in doubt you can head down to the grocery store or even your local corner store and grab a couple of cans.

Just make sure you get tuna that is packaged in oil, not water, if at all possible. Remember, the stinkier the better!

7. Soft Candy

Soft candies of various kinds are another good bait option for raccoons in an urban or suburban environment.

Remember that raccoons are opportunists, and there have been plenty of sweet treats pillaged by these tricky little rascals either sitting in storage, in transit or thrown out in the trash.

That means that raccoons occupying these environments have a serious sweet tooth, a sweet tooth you can exploit.

You should choose candies that are soft and easy to eat not only to make them more palatable but also to ensure that more of their scent gets on the wind.

Assuming the candy will hold up to some extra moisture, it might be a good idea to wet them gently in order to increase their fragrance, and don’t worry about it if they get caught in the rain. Raccoons never mind soggy food!

8. Fruit

Raccoons are perennial fruit eaters, of all kinds, and they especially love soft, juicy sweet fruits like watermelon, cantaloupe and pineapple.

That being said they will eat pretty much any kind of fruit, from plums and grapes to berries and apples. So long as the fruit is cut open or the raccoons can smell it they will be drawn to it.

Brightly colored fruit seems to work best but you can use anything you have on hand. Fresh fruit will work as will canned fruit, so you don’t need to be picky because raccoons sure aren’t.

That being said, make sure you keep a close eye on your bait and refresh the fruit when it starts to rot or dissolve away. Fruit more than most bait seems to do best when it is fresher.

9. Soy Sauce

Soy sauce is not a food per se but it is a condiment and therefore it is technically a food for the purposes of this list.

Regardless, it is extremely pungent and can be poured on other items to greatly increase the loft of its scent, making it a sort of “amplifier” for other baits.

This can be used with otherwise only modestly-appealing baits like bread or added to high-quality baits like roasted pork or poultry to make a dish that will be calling in raccoons from across the county.

If you are struggling to catch a raccoon with what baits you have on hand, consider adding a little shot of warmed soy sauce to it and pouring some extra on the plate or around the dish where you have placed the bait.

This will always give raccoons extra incentive to investigate the intoxicating aroma.

10. Cat/Dog Food

You should have figured this one out long before you ever thought about actually having to get around to catching the raccoon.

Most people find themselves in this situation because of chronically stolen pet food and increasing numbers of hungry, grasping little hands looking for a handout at night.

Raccoons love pet food, particularly cat and dog kibble as well as the ever-precious wet food.

You don’t need to swim uphill if you are trying to bait a raccoon that has been stealing your pet’s food.

Simply relocate some of the food into the animal trap or killzone and wait for the little mongrel to show up and collect his due.

As always, wet food generally works better but if you have dry food that’s okay, simply put out a little dish of water to go with it because apparently there is nothing raccoons love more than dipping dry pet food in a nearby bowl of water.

Conclusion

Raccoons are the half-glutton, half-gourmand of the animal world, and there is a wide variety of baits that will work wonderfully when it comes time to lure them into a diy trap or an ambush.

Read over the suggested baits we have furnished you with on this list and assess them against the environment your raccoons are in. I have no doubt that you’ll have a handful that will work wonderfully.

In this article, we will discuss the best freshwater fish to eat and why they are so good for you. We’ll also cover some of the health risks associated with eating certain types of fish, and provide tips on how to select fresh fish at the grocery store.

There are a few types of fish that remain at the top of the list among fish enthusiasts’ list of favorites. However, some of them might be hard to locate and obtain. But that’s no reason not to try them, as those fish species are truly some of the most highly recommended freshwater fish for eating.

Best Freshwater Fish for Eating

Here, we’d like to talk about a few of our absolute favorite tasty freshwater fish and provide some practical advice on why they are the best freshwater fish for eating.

Salmon

Salmon is a well-known fish among many fish lovers. Salmon may be cooked in many ways and is actually one of the fish types you can find easily no matter where you are.

There’s a good chance that your local fish market or grocery store offers many types of salmon from which you can choose easily. And you can make a variety of meals with salmon and serve them to your friends and family.

Salmon is an anadromous fish, meaning it moves from freshwater, to saltwater, and returns for reproduction purposes. In many areas of the world, there are landlocked salmon that live their entire lives in freshwater, so salmon is considered both a freshwater and saltwater fish.

There are many ways you can eat salmon. It can be baked, roasted, fried, or even grilled.

Salmon works well even now in an air fryer. This adds diversity to a straightforward fish. It has plenty of Omega-3-rich fatty acids as well which is really good for your health overall.

Salmon has a moderate flavor, so you will not get any significant fish-type flavor, which is why it is often enjoyed by those with little experience consuming fish.

Trout

The well-liked freshwater fish, trout, is easy to prepare and has a delicious flavor.

There are several types of trout that are often consumed:

Rainbow trout, brown trout, cutthroat trout, brook trout (not technically a trout, but widely included in this group), lake trout, and other species of trout.

Roasted trout is one of the best trout dishes there is. However, it also tastes great when fried or grilled. Just make sure that you cut the trout into tiny chunks if you decide to fry it.

We recommend some brown rice and maybe some steaming or vegetables on the side when you’re ready to serve the trout. If you are camping, it is easy to place trout in some foil over a fire and have an incredibly meal while camping.

Pike

Another really tasty freshwater fish to cross off your list is the pike. Due to their preference for chilly water, they are more prevalent in northern states and regions.

As opposed to the majority of the other fish we’ve discussed here, you should expect a slightly fishy flavor from this fish.

The majority of people, however, use flavorful seasonings and inventive recipes to mask the fishiness. The fishy flavor will appeal to seafood lovers. When it comes to cooking pike, you may relish its rich flavors and flaky meat, so it’s quite adaptable.

Baking is the most typical method of preparing pike. The results from broiling or grilling these fish are rather good. A word of caution with pike: it’s bony, which means you want to take a bit of extra care when cleaning and eating. This is a fish where some local fish and wildlife may suggest not eating them based on water conditions.

Bluegill

Bluegill can be an exquisite choice if it is obtained in the proper environment. Bluegills are known for being some of the best tasting warm water fish species, but they taste can differ based on environment quite a bit. Bluegill in cold water vs hot water, in a lake, vs a pond, vs a river can all have some different flavors. This can make for some fun variation and experimenting.

Bluegill is most often fried, or cooked whole. Bluegill are small fish almost always less than 12 inches long, with a mild taste, firm meat, and it does not have a fishy taste.

Bass

Since the bass typically has a mild flavor, you can cook it pretty much however you like and still have a delicious meal.

Similar to bluegill, bass can have a slight note of sweet flavor. Although they don’t taste particularly fishy, you will detect some can detect a fishy flavor to them. Bass is such a commonly targeted sport fish, that is generally overlooked as a fish to consume, but in some regions, you’ll find this as a very common fish to eat.

Crappie

People who just love spending time fishing in the nearby river or pond frequently catch this species of fish. They are considered one of the easiest fish species to catch, which makes them a great fish to target for beginners or family.

Crappie have a mild and sweet flavor. The texture of the meat is flaky but firm, which some people find to be similar to lobster or crab.

While you can fry crappie, many fishermen will say that baking or grilling provides the best flavor.

There are many different ways to enjoy freshwater fish. These are just a few of the most common and best-tasting options that you’ll find.

Freshwater Drum

This fish is a bit of an acquired taste for some because it can have a muddy flavor.

This flavor is not present in all freshwater drums, however. If you catch one from clean water, you will be pleasantly surprised by its delicate and mild taste. The texture of its meat is also quite firm.

If you have never had freshwater drum before, baking is probably the best way to prepare it and get a feel for its flavor. You could also fry it or grill it if you’re feeling adventurous.

Catfish

Catfish is an extremely common and delicious freshwater fish to eat.

When it comes to taste, a smaller to medium-sized catfish is preferable, especially if you are worried about fishy flavors. The smaller the fish, the milder the taste will be.

There are many different ways to cook catfish. One popular way is to fry it, but you could also bake it, or even grill it.

No matter how you choose to prepare it, be sure to remove the skin and any dark meat before cooking as this can make the taste quite strong.

Perch

Perch is a mild-tasting fish that is popular among fishermen and seafood-lovers alike. It has a delicate flavor with firm, white flesh.

One of the best things about perch is that it can be cooked in many different ways and still taste great.

Cusk

Cusk is a freshwater fish that is lesser known but definitely worth trying.

This type of fish is frequently compared to cod, haddock, or pollock because they have a very similar taste and appearance. They are whitefish with rather large flakes. They also have a moist texture and a delicate flavor which makes them perfect for people who are not fans of fishy tastes.

Cusk is a great option for people who want to try something new but don’t want to stray too far from what they’re used to. It is versatile and can be used in many different recipes.

If you want to try cusk, it is best to baked, grilled, or poached.

Final Thoughts

There are many different freshwater fish to choose from if you want to add fish to your diet. These are just some of the best options available. Not only are these fish best for eating, but you can also try different recipes and have an amazing lunch or dinner with your family and friends.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do Fish From Freshwater Have Parasites?

Fish in freshwater are parasitized by a variety of cestodes (tapeworms) as well as trematodes (flukes). However, one tapeworm is Ligula, which has various life stages that are parasitic on fish, crustaceans, and birds in order. In most cases, fully cooking fish prevents the passing of any parasites.

Can You Acquire Worms Via Fish Consumption?

When a person consumes fish that is infected with the worm Diphyllobothrium latum, such as undercooked or raw fish, they may become infected with fish tapeworms. They key is to fully cook your fish. Fish tapeworm is the most frequently used name for the worm. This particular species of tapeworm develops in raw fish-eating big animals and small aquatic organisms as victims. This generally can be fixed easily without long lasting effects.

What Types Of Freshwater Fish Are Unsafe To Eat?

Do some research on the best freshwater fish in your area to find out what’s available and what would be the best option for you and your family. Some local areas have populations of fish that may not be safe to consume, or contain contaminants that can be harmful to your health. A simple search on the local fish and wildlife organization will likely supply you with all the needed information.

What Is A Shotgun Choke?

A choke is simply a tapered constriction of the gun barrel’s bore at the muzzle end. The exit end of the choke is smaller by some dimension than the actual bore of the barrel. This difference is the amount of constriction. For example if the bore of the barrel is .730 and the exit dia of the choke is .710 you have a constriction of .020. The amount of constriction for a given degree of choke will also vary between manufacturers. As a general rule for standard chokes the total range will be between .000 and .045 thousandths of an inch under bore diameter. In the case of special purpose turkey chokes it can be as much as .100 or 1/10th of an inch. The length of the choke can vary as well. Most, but not all chokes will have an overall length of between 1.5 and 4 inches. Note that many fixed choke barrels marked skeet will actually be .000 or cylinder.

They can be grouped in 3 general types:

1- Fixed chokes- They are made as an integral part of the barrel and cannot be readily changed except by a gunsmith and any alteration is considered permanent.

2- Interchangeable chokes- These can be of the “screw on” style which is externally attached or the “screw in” which is recessed into the barrel. To change the degree of constriction you simply remove and replace with a choke of a different diameter.

3- Adjustable chokes- This style of choke is adjustable throughout the entire range by turning a sleeve, which collapses or allows a collet to expand thus changing the exit diameter. A popular choke of this type is the Polychoke.

The internal design of chokes can also be broken down into three main groups:

1- Conical Parallel- This style has a cone that blends into a parallel section which helps to stabilize the shot charge as it leaves the choke.

2- Straight Conical- This has a cone only. Where the cone stops is the point where the shot exits the choke.

3- Wad Retarding-They do not have the constriction in the same manner as either of the above designs but instead use bumps or projections to alter the shot pattern.

The most common design in use is the conical parallel. All Trulock Chokes are of this design.

Shotgun Bore Diameter and Pattern Performance

I am often asked the above question by people who are interested in purchasing a new shotgun. They reason that if a specific bore size inherently gives better, that is more even patterns, then it makes sense to purchase a shotgun with that bore diameter.

Shotguns that were made in the U.S.A. were for many years, all of the same nominal bore diameter (.730 plus or minus the tolerance of the individual manufacturer) as the U.S. standard for 12 ga was .7299. With the rise in popularity of foreign shotguns such as Beretta we were introduced to smaller bores running in the nominal .721/.725 diameter. Stan Baker to the best of my knowledge was the first to do extensive experiments with backbored barrels (the process of enlarging an existing bore diameter) taking the 12 ga bore up to a nominal 10 ga diameter of .775. Some time back Browning added a new choke design to their line which they named Invector Plus to differentiate it from their original design called Invector. The new chokes and the barrels were based on a nominal .740 bore diameter. I believe that Browning was the first company to offer a factory barrel with a bore diameter that was significantly larger than standard. Currently most of the major shotgun manufacturers offer at least some models with bores larger than their “standard” bores. Some have gone totally to a new larger bore. The results of this are that today’s shooter has a very wide range of bore diameters to choose from.

Pulling from my memory I can recall the following nominal 12 ga. bore sizes. These may not be exact numbers as each manufacturer has plus and minus tolerances. Some of the below numbers have been rounded when converting from metric measurements and some for my convenience.

.725

.730

.733

.735

.740

.745

.774

Now that you have all of the background information, you can get my answer.

I have always been able to obtain the pattern that I was looking for within reason (no 100% patterns at 80 yards) with all of the above bores by patterning with different chokes and or shells. I have had shotguns on occasion that took quite a bit of work to obtain the pattern I wanted but this has never been limited to a certain bore size as they were always a random mix.

Shotgun Patterns

Patterns are normally expressed as a percentage such as 50%, 60%, 70% ect. This is the commonly accepted method comparing pattern density. In a 50% pattern ½ of all the pellets contained in the shell will strike inside of a circle of 30 inches in diameter. To find the percentage of any given load divide the number of hits inside the circle by the total number of pellets contained in the shell. You can obtain the approximate number of pellets any given load will have from a shotgun shell reloading book or you can open a couple of shells and actually count the pellets. Normally all pattern testing is done at a distance of 40 yards with the exception of cylinder and skeet 1 chokes in all gauges and all chokes for the .410 bore which are normally measured at 25 yards. Industry pattern percentages for chokes were developed using the preceding distances. If you want to compare any given choke to the industry figures you should do your pattern testing at the same distance.

The purpose for this is to allow you to select a choke that will throw a pattern that is as large as possible without having the pellets so far apart that the target can move through the shot string without receiving multiple hits. For shooting both game and clay targets you want a pattern that is perfectly even in pellet distribution over the 30-inch circle. Having said that, and after looking at thousands of patterns over a span of 25 years I could count on my fingers the number that I would call “even” and if these were measured close enough they would not have qualified. In this instance “very close” is excellent. Two exceptions to the preceding would be buckshot and turkey patterns. With both of these you are looking for a tight center cluster of pellets.

One thing to remember –The only thing that is consistent about shotguns is that very few things are consistent. Identical guns with the same degree of choke and using the same shell may not pattern the same. The same load between various brands of shells can pattern differently. Patterns will change when changing from hard to soft shot. Patterns can change when anything in the shell changes such as different wads, powders or primers. What I am trying to get across is that when you change anything such as brands, shot size, or components you will need to check the pattern as it could have changed, sometimes by an extreme amount.

Once you find a choke/shell combination that gives you the pattern you want it should remain reasonably consistent as long as nothing is changed. I am satisfied as long as the percentage stays within a 5% plus or minus deviation.

The below chart shows the relationship between the degree of choke, the percentage and constriction based on lead shot. Keep in mind that the percentages are a guide only. What you actually want is a pattern that is dense enough to insure multiple hits on your target at the distance you normally shoot.

Lead Shot Choke Chart

Constriction Percent Cylinder .000 40 at 40 yds- 70 at 25 yds Skeet 1 .005 45 at 40 yds- 75 at 25 yds Imp Cyl .010 50 at 40 yds Skeet 2 (lite mod) .015 55 at 40 yds Modified .020 60 at 40 yds Imp Mod .025 65 at 40 yds Full .030 70 at 40 yds Extra Full .040 73 at 40 yds Turkey .045 Plus 75 PLUS at 40 yds

Keep in mind that this chart should be used as a starting point only. Select the choke and pattern it. Change chokes or loads as needed to get the pattern you want. If you do not pattern your gun please feel free to accept this chart as being infallible.

What Choke Should I Use

The most frequently asked question we get is “What choke do you suggest”?

Use a choke that will give you 70 or so percent patterns at the distance you plan to shoot.

If you look back at the “lead shot choke chart” it is obvious that open chokes at long distances will have a much more open pattern than tighter chokes. I will not argue the point that you can certainly break/kill targets at 40 yards with a skeet choke but the odds are certainly not in your favor. Try your best to estimate the distance that you would normally encounter for a specific shooting condition and select a choke that gives you an evenly spaced 70% pattern with your choice of shell. Rarely, will your estimate be “on the money” so test pattern this combination at distances both closer and farther from your established base line. If the shooting distances change then change your choke to match them.

When I first started dove shooting many years ago, I noticed there were always one or two men at every shoot that almost never missed a bird. After long observation I realized that the one thing that each had in common was that they picked their shots instead of blasting at every bird in the field. They were simply shooting those birds that were within range of whatever gun/choke/shell combination they were using. In my opinion shooting range equals 70% pattern density.

While there are other variables, for all practical purposes chokes will have the biggest effect on pattern density. I look at density from two different ways. The first is the pattern percentage. This is simply a figure telling you how many pellets out of the total number of pellets that were fired at the target hit inside a thirty-inch circle. Example: 250 pellets were in the shell and 200 landed inside the circle. Divide 200 by 250 = 80%. Percentage is percentage and it does not matter what size of shot is used.

The second way is pellet spacing. Common sense tells us that a 1-¼ oz. load of #8 shot will have many more pellets than a 1-¼ oz. load of #4 shot. If both loads pattern at 70% you will have more # 8 shot in the target than you would have with 4’s. The pellets must be close enough that the target cannot slip through. While I generally think that the 70% rule is sufficient, some of the larger pellets may not give enough density. Pattern and make sure.

How To Pattern

I like to use paper that measures 4 feet square. Paper this size may be hard to find locally. If it is not available try taping several sheets of butcher paper or newsprint together. Bruce Buck the “technoid” of “Shotgun Report” suggested using red resin flooring paper. This is available at any home supply store and shows the pellet holes perfectly when viewed from the back. He noted it is available only in 36-inch wide rolls but it cuts and tapes easily. If you use small paper and your gun does not shoot to the point of aim, part of your pattern could be off of the target. You would probably confuse this with a bad pattern. Mark the target center for use as an aiming point. I strongly suggest that you use a padded shooting bench when patterning. At this point you are not checking the gun for fit and a bench rest helps to remove some of the variables. Note that if your head/eye is not located in the same place on the stock between bench rest and offhand shooting your point of impact will be different. From the correct distance, shoot at the center of the target. I would do this a minimum of 5 times on different targets with each shell or choke that is being tested. You will need to draw a 30-inch circle around the most dense portion of the pattern on each target. If you intend to do much of this get a 30-inch diameter piece of thin Lexan [Plexiglas]. You can easily move this around on the paper to find where to draw the circle. Count the pellets inside of the circle. Divide this number by the total number of shot contained in the shell and you will have your percentage. Take the percentage from each target, add them and divide by the total number of shots fired for each shell or choke. This will give you the overall average for that test. Sounds like a royal pain doesn’t it? It is, but there are no short cuts if you really want to know what your shotgun is doing.

After you have finished look carefully at each pattern for holes that are big enough to let your intended target slip through. You want a dense enough pattern to ensure multiple hits.

Point of Impact

We are asked on occasion about chokes that do not center the pattern exactly on the aiming point. Most shooters want a shotgun that centers the pattern exactly with the point of aim. Most shotguns are manufactured in theory to do this. The problem arises between theory and fact. It is not unusual to find shotguns that shoot high or low and to the right or left or a combination of these. Shotguns that pattern ½ above and ½ below the point of aim have what is commonly known as a 50/50 pattern. One that shoots ¾ of the pattern over and ¼ under the point of aim has a 75/25 pattern and so on. Certain guns are designed to give patterns other than 50/50. WE WILL ASSUME that you know if your gun was designed to give a pattern other than 50/50.

Some of the common reasons for off center patterns are listed below.

1-Defective choke tube

2-Bent barrel

3-Choke/barrel alignment

4-Loose barrel

5-Poor gun fit

6-FLINCH

This could also result from a combination of any of the above.

To check your gun for point of aim we suggest the following

1- Shoot from a padded rest.

2- Make sure to get perfect bead alignment if your gun has a center bead, if it doesn’t get the rib perfectly flat, with the bead visible.

3- Use the same load as you will use in the field or on the range.

4- Squeeze the trigger. This is easier said than done as most shotgun trigger assemblies give anything but a good pull.

5- Use targets with a center aiming point.

Shoot several targets, change chokes and repeat.

I would suggest you do this with several different chokes. If you are using aftermarket chokes also test some of the factory tubes that came with the gun.

1- If all of the chokes shoot to the same spot or at least very close to the same, your problem is not with the chokes.

2- If your point of impact changes with each choke you test your problem is not the chokes.

3- If one choke shoots to a different point of aim and the others do not. I would say that choke is defective and a call to the manufacturer would be in order.

One other thing you should be aware of is the “point of convergence” [POC]. This problem will be found only on side-by-side or over/under shotguns. Both barrels should shoot to the same spot. Again what works in theory seldom works in practice. Generally with O/Us the top barrel will shoot high. When testing for proper POC you will find it somewhat easier if you use tight chokes. If the POC is close, be happy, many are not. If you cannot live with the error I suggest you talk to the manufacturer.

Steel Shot/Waterfowl Chokes

Much has changed over the years with steel loadings. The quality and consistency of the shells has been greatly improved. However, the fact that steel shot exerts much more stress on choke tubes has not changed. The problem is that steel shot is much harder than lead. It will transmit much more energy to the choke when it strikes the conical portion and if the tube is not of sufficient strength it will cause it to deform. This is known as “choke creep”

Over a period of time choke creep can lock a choke in the barrel so that it is next to impossible to remove. Most Trulock Chokes are rated for use with steel shot from cylinder bore through improved modified with the exception of the Tru-Choke S.D. which are not recommended for any shot other than lead. In addition our Super Waterfowl Choke was designed especially for steel and all other environmentally friendly shot.

It is strongly suggested that you use our Extended Precision Hunter style choke for steel shot as they normally give a superior pattern over the flush style chokes.

Close Range -approximately out to 30 yards – Skt 1= pattern percentage of about 55% Medium range- approximately out to 35 yards-Skt 2 [light mod] =pattern percentage of 65%

Medium range- approximately out to 35 yards-Skt 2 [light mod] =pattern percentage of 65%

Long Range-35yards and further- Improved Modified =pattern percentage of 75%

Extreme Range= Super Waterfowl series=pattern percentage of 80% plus

The above suggestions normally work well with number (4, 3, 2 ect.) size steel shot. If you are using letter size (BB, BBB ect.) steel you may find your best results using cylinder (close range) improved cylinder (mid range) and modified for long range.

If you are switching from standard velocity steel to fast steel and you notice a decrease in pattern performance try backing off of choke constriction by .005 from whatever size you presently use.

These suggestions should be used as a starting point and should not be taken as a substitute for patterning your shotgun.

The recommendations below are for Trulock Chokes only.

Tungsten Iron- Use the same choke constrictions as you would for steel shot.

Tungsten Shot such as Hevi-Shot, Hevi 13, Winchester Extended Range and Federal Heavyweight.

For waterfowl and upland bird hunting we suggest you use two sizes smaller shot than you would with steel. We find that these alloys can be used in chokes with much more constriction than you can use with steel shot and they retain velocity much better. This, in my opinion makes them the ultimate choice for long range shooting. For normal patterns using # 6 thru # 2 size shot we like a skt 1 for close range, a skt 2 (light mod) for mid range and improved modified for long range. For shots on the long side of 40 yds try the extra full constriction or one of our Super Waterfowl chokes.

This type of shot can be used in our turkey chokes and normally deliver excellent patterns.

Bismuth – Use the same chokes you would use with lead shot.

All current production Trulock Chokes are marked on the body if rated for steel or tungsten or both.

Turkey Chokes

We make a wide assortment of chokes that fall under this heading. No one choke works well in all guns with all loads but one thing has to be consistent, the shot shell. You will have to shoot premium factory loads or assemble your hand loads with the best components available in order to get good dense patterns at long range. While this basically holds true for all shotgunning it is especially so when hunting turkeys. You have a very small kill zone even when the bird is at close range and it is imperative that you know exactly what your shotgun and shell is capable of doing. In testing different shells we have found several that work very well.

1- Hevi Shot

2- Federal Premium Mag Shok Heavyweight

3- Winchester Supreme Elite Xtended Range Hi-Density- No longer loaded but some existing stock may be on dealer’s shelves.

4-Winchester Long Beard™ XR™ Scroll down for more information

As a rule we found that the shells with “heavier than lead” pellets shot tighter patterns than those using lead but this may not be the case with your gun.

To get a dense pattern with a tight center you will need the Precision Hunter style choke. Our three most popular chokes have exit diameters of .670, .665 and .660. Although some shotguns like a .680 generally one of the above ends up working better. We also make a.650 and .640 but these are better suited to card shooting and not live bird hunting as they like smaller # 8 shot better. The smallest exit diameter does not always give the tightest pattern. We find that the smaller the exit diameter the more erratic the patterns. Normally one particular load will pattern considerably better than the rest. Let me repeat that you will be wasting your time to shoot a cheaply made or promotional type shell. We have patterned the above listed shells with our chokes and make the following suggestions.

Suggested turkey chokes and shot size

.690 first choice for .774 bore guns- #5/6 lead, #6 “heavier than lead”

.670 first choice for .740 bore guns- #5/6 lead, #6 “heavier than lead”

.665 first choice for .730 bore guns- #5/6 lead, #6 “heavier than lead”

.660 first choice for .725 bore guns- #5/6 lead, #6 “heavier than lead”

We have NOT had a chance to test Remington’s replacement for Hevi Shot but will do so and post the results.

Please note that a choke of a given exit diameter is usually going to give a different pattern when used in guns of different bore diameters.

Take a Beretta at .723 a Remington at .727 a Browning I.P. at .740 and using a .660 in all three guns normally gives three different patterns. Just because a .660 worked very well in your Remington does assume it will work great in your Browning.

Special Turkey Chokes for Specific Shells

Trulock Fed # 7 turkey chokes

After testing the Federal Heavyweight turkey # 7 we were so impressed we designed a series of turkey chokes especially for this shell. It gave very good results as per the below pattern. The folks at federal tell me that the # 7 tungsten pellet has the same killing power at 40 yards as a # 5 lead pellet.

Federal #7 turkey load fired through Trulock Fed #7 choke at 40 yards.

Winchester Long Beard™ XR™ turkey chokes

These shells use lead shot that are encased in a special solid buffer that fractures upon firing. I don’t have a clue what the buffer is but I can tell you that patterns fired using this type of shell are amazing.

We developed a line of turkey chokes for this shell that is shot size specific. We make chokes specific to the #4, #5 and #6 shot sizes.

Combine the Longbeard XR™ turkey load with Trulock’s new LongBeard XR choke tubes to maximize the shell’s performance. With this remarkable combo, you can expect 10% greater penetration over standard lead loads beyond 50 yards and twice the number of pellets in a 10″ circle out to 60 yds.

#5 Shot #6 Shot

Chokes for Buckshot

As with Turkey chokes you will be trying to get a very dense, tight pattern but since you have such a small number of pellets you cannot afford to have as many fliers. However, the rule about using premium shells does not change. Hard, plated pellets with a buffer will normally shoot tighter patterns with fewer fliers than those loads made with soft lead and no buffer. I would suggest the Precision Hunter style choke [extended] with a constriction of .030. This would be our full choke. Some gun/load combinations will work better with a constriction of .040 (extra full). One of these two constrictions will normally give you a very dense pattern.

The only sure way to know for sure which choke your gun likes the best is to test pattern and see.

Do not use turkey chokes for “00” buckshot. They have too much constriction and will decrease not increase the density of the pattern.

The constrictions suggested were based on the use of 00 size pellets.

We have patterned Hevi Shot’s 9-pellet buckshot load.

We consistently got 6 of the 9 pellets in a 10-inch diameter circle at 40 yards using an extended full and ex full choke.

00 and 000 Buckshot Choke Tubes For Big Game

Deerstroyer™ Choke Tubes

At the 2015 SHOT Show we introduced our Deerstroyer™ style of choke tubes especially for 00 and 000 buckshot sizes. All of these are made in a 4 inch overall length. For 2016 we have redesigned this choke internally for improved pattern performance. All of the Deerstroyer™ chokes have a nominal .030 constriction based on average bore size for each specific model.

Boar Blaster™ Choke Tubes

The Boar Blaster™ style of choke has a totally new internal design consisting of 5 steps with 6 parallel sections. This design has been tested with numerous loads of 9 and 15 pellet 00 and various 000 shells and has shown an increase in pattern density over conventional conical parallel choke designs with every load we have tested. Made from high strength stainless steel with a black oxide finish and knurled head.

Predator/Varmint Chokes

Our suggestions on chokes are as follows.

Mossberg 835’s and similar .774 bore shotguns .710 exit diameter

Browning Invector Plus and similar .740 bore shotguns .680 exit diameter

Remington and similar .730 bore shotguns .670 exit diameter

Beretta Optima Plus and similar.733 bore shotguns .683 exit diameter

Benelli Crio Plus, Mobil style and similar .725 bore shotguns .665 exit diameter

We suggest the below loads

Hevi-Shot Dead Coyote (T Pellets)

Win Xtended Range HD Coyote (B Pellets)

Number 4 buckshot

In any given shotgun you may find one load patterns tighter than another. You will have to pattern your gun to find the best load.

Predator™ Choke Tubes

At the 2015 SHOT Show we introduced our Predator™ style of choke tubes especially for # 4 buckshot and the large pellet predator tungsten loads. All of these are made in a 4 inch overall length with a longer (3 inch) than normal conical section for less pellet deformation. All of these chokes have a nominal .050 to .060 constriction based on average bore size for each specific model.

Choke Cleaning

Ideally chokes should be cleaned each time the gun is used. Plastic fouling and powder residue will build up in screw in chokes much faster than in fixed choke guns. Powder fouling will also work between the choke and the choke counter bore in the barrel. Remove the choke and clean with a toothbrush using some sort of solvent. We use and suggest Choke Shine as a cleaner. Simply, drop the choke into the solution for a short time and it will come out with the fouling dissolved. Clean the inside of the barrel with a cleaner/lubricant such as Clenzoil making sure the threads do not have any residue, lightly wipe the choke with oil and reassemble.

Remember that rust can occur in the barrel and freeze a choke in place even if the choke is made from stainless steel. Waterfowl hunters should pay particular attention to keeping the choke and barrel clean.

Choke Tightness

Although this seems like a no brainer we believe that there is a proper way to install a choke tube. When changing a choke in the field or at the range, wipe the choke with a clean rag to keep any abrasive from being ground into the threaded area of the choke/barrel. Finger tighten and then use a wrench that properly fits the tube to finish tightening using a moderate amount of pressure. This will help keep the choke from loosening up when in use. When a choke is not properly seated the possibility of the shot charge striking the edge of the choke greatly increases. If this happens a bulged barrel and a ruined choke are almost guaranteed. Most chokes will loosen and back out to some degree if they are left finger tight. A perfectly clean, dry choke installed in a clean, dry barrel and moderately tightened with a wrench should not work loose. Having said that, most shooters are better off to make sure that there is a light coating of oil on the choke before installing as this will help prevent rust in the barrel. All chokes should be checked on a regular basis for tightness.

Prior to doing anything with a choke, be sure the gun is unloaded and the muzzle pointed in a safe direction.

Frozen Chokes

We have pulled frozen chokes in our shop of almost every brand. Normally by the time we get the barrel one or more people have attempted to remove the choke. Did you ever wonder where the saying “Fixed Guns Repaired” came from? This is a problem that can be prevented 99% of the time by simply cleaning the choke/barrel on a regular basis. The number one problem is RUST in the threaded area of the choke/barrel. If you keep this from forming, you generally will not experience any problems. The second problem is choke creep [expansion]. This fortunately is much less of a problem than rust. This is caused normally by using large steel shot in tight chokes [full or tighter]. Follow the manufacturer’s suggestions when using steel shot and the odds are very much in your favor that you will have no problems. If choke creep happens you will notice the choke becoming harder to remove and install and if you continue shooting it will eventually lock itself in the barrel.

If you find yourself with a frozen choke my first suggestion is to take it to a competent gunsmith. Make sure the smith has some experience in this line of work.

The information below is not intended to be all inclusive instructions. If you are not responsible for your own actions do not attempt to use any of the suggestions.

Unload the gun, remove the barrel from the action and soak the muzzle in a can of penetrating oil for several days. Make sure the container has a sufficient amount of oil to completely cover the barrel as deep as the choke is recessed. Use a proper fitting choke wrench and try to work the choke back and forth in small increments. If this does not work try letting it soak several more days. Heat applied to the choke area can be of help. Never get the barrel so hot that you cannot touch it with your hand for several seconds. Do not use a hammer of any kind to try and “tap” it. Soaking and low heat will get most frozen chokes out. Take your time, we have seen a number of barrels ruined because of impatience.

Choke Storage

We suggest that you keep your chokes in a padded case especially designed for them. There are a number of quality cases on the market for under $10.99. The purpose is to keep them from hitting each other or any hard object that could cause burrs or deformation. Chokes are particularly susceptible to denting in the skirt area. We have seen this occur on numerous occasions when chokes stored in plain boxes were dropped. We also urge you to clean all of the chokes that have used when you clean your gun. Alloy steel chokes need a light coat of oil prior to storage and stainless steel keeps its rust resistant properties best when it is free from all contamination.

British Shotgun Choke Tube Constrictions

Choke constrictions in Britain are normally marked using a different method that what we are accustomed to seeing here in the United States. In some cases the same name is used in both countries with an entirely different meaning as to the amount of constriction in the choke.

The below chart gives a comparison between the choke name and the amount of constriction.

Constriction Constriction British US Trulock MM Inches Marking Marking Marking .00 .000 Cylinder Cylinder Cylinder .13 .005 Imp Cyl Skeet Skeet 1 .25 .010 1/4 Imp Cyl Imp Cyl .50 .020 1/2 Modified Modified .75 .030 3/4 Lite Full Full 1.00 .035 Full Full

We have tried to give you a very basic course on chokes and their use. If we can be of any service to you please call us. We will be glad to help with any questions or problems you may have. This will be a constantly evolving paper. If you would like to see any subject discussed concerning chokes or related please let us know.

I love 7mm PRC. I built a custom 7mm PRC two months before the cartridge was ever even announced to the public, and have been shooting it constantly. I’ve learned a lot about what does and doesn’t work well for this platform.

7mm PRC is a unique cartridge. The more experience I have with it, the more I realize that it matches some rifles extremely well, and others less well. Because of that, I’m going to be straightforward in this post in saying some rifles that I simply can’t recommend for 7mm PRC.

Why You Can Trust This Review

• I have reviewed many dozens of hunting rifles to compare the best rifles at each price point.
• No rifle maker pays me for my opinions, which is why Backfire is one of few places you’ll see NEGATIVE as well as positive reviews. Most reviewers only talk about the good things because they want to please the manufacturers.
• I’ve been shooting 7mm PRC since before the cartridge was even announced. I own two 7mm PRC rifles.
• I have a somewhat rounded face, which research shows increases public trust in a person. Just kidding on this one 🙂

Later in this post, I’ll discuss some things to specifically look for in choosing a 7mm PRC rifle, but first, let’s dive in to some cool guns.

Option #1: Ruger American Go Wild!

The Ruger American has become a beloved rifle at the low end of the market. Compared to dozens of other cheap rifles I’ve reviewed for the Backfire Youtube Channel, the Ruger American is one of the only ones that I’ve found to shoot reliably accurate groups. However, one early reviewer of the RA in 7mm PRC did have some accuracy issues.

The “Go Wild!” edition of this gun adds a few features such as burnt bronze Cerakote on the barrel and action, a camo-printed stock, and a muzzle brake. The biggest upgrade to the “Go Wild!” models is the magazine, which is far more reliable than Ruger’s old rotary mag. The feeding still isn’t 100% perfect, but it’s a substantial improvement over the standard Ruger American.

Overall, the Ruger American Go Wild is an excellent choice for a budget 7mm PRC rifle. You’ll likely have good accuracy, the manufacturing consistency is reliable, and you’ll have a durable gun that will last a long time. Plus, you can always upgrade the stock down the road because there is a robust accessory market for the Ruger American.

However, I the increased price of the Go Wild edition of this rifle puts it in a price point that competes with the Bergara B14 Hunter, Tikka T3x, Franchi Momentum, and CVA Cascade. Once those rifles are released in 7mm PRC, I would easily adjust my recommendation to move to one of those options that I think are better rifles in this price bracket.

It’s important to note that while the Ruger American is the only budget 7mm PRC rifle I can recommend right now, it’s NOT the only budget option out there. The Mossberg Patriot has also been released in 7mm PRC, but I wouldn’t touch it with a 39.5′ pole. Later in this post, I’ll discuss the rifles I DON’T recommend in 7mm PRC.

Option #2: Savage 110 Ultralite

Savage was one of the first rifle makers to embrace the 7 PRC. While many companies announced support at the launch of the cartridge, Savage is actually shipping rifles and brought it to no less than 11 different models immediately.

The Savage 110 Ultralite is universally very accurate. The real selling feature of the rifle is that it utilizes a Proof Research carbon fiber barrel. That’s a very high-end precision barrel for a rifle in a factory rifle. It felt like I couldn’t miss when I did my full review of the Savage 110 Ultralite.

The knock on the Savage 110 Ultralite is that it uses a clumsy Savage action and an unreliable plastic magazine and mag catch. I was once told that a Savage 110 Ultralite is a “$1,000 barrel attached to a $400 gun.” It’s a funny comment, but honestly it’s a very functional stock. It has an adjustable cheek piece and length of pull, and is decently rigid in the forend. Plus, because so many stocks are inletted for the Savage 110, it’s a piece you could replace with a carbon fiber stock at some point in the future and you’d have an extremely fine rifle.

Still, if you can look past the Tupperware stock, you’ll have a sinfully accurate rifle that is incredibly lightweight for a reasonable price. When I purchased the Savage 110 Ultralite a few years ago, I got it for $1,195, but now they run closer to $1,500. Still, it’s a fair price for what the rifle is.

Here is a full list of rifles that Savage will be releasing in 7mm PRC:

• 110 Ultralite (HD or Camo) – $1,649 – $1,699
• 110 High Country – $1,239
• 110 Timberline (Right or left hand) – $1,239
• Impulse Big Game – $1,449
• Impulse Mountain Hunter – $2,437
• 110 Apex Hunter XP (Right or left hand) – $709
• 110 Apex Storm XP – $819

Option #3: Browning X-Bolt

The Browning X-Bolt line is a very compelling option for 7mm PRC. X-Bolt rifles are always styled to look cool, and I’ve found the manufacturing quality to be very reliable. Plus, they use a quality action with some cool features like the ability to pull the bolt back while still in safe.

If I were buying an X-Bolt in 7mm PRC, I would definitely look to their “SR” line. The “SR” line means “Suppressor Ready”, so you’ll get the muzzle threaded 5/8×24, and barrels that are 4″ shorter. Both of those are a great match for 7mm PRC, which does well in a shorter rifle, and also having a threaded barrel can help to reduce recoil by adding a brake or suppressor. Unfortunately, I haven’t seen the SR line yet available in 7mm PRC.

But no rifle is perfect. Here are a few issues I have with X-Bolt rifles:

• Metric Patterns – They stubbornly still thread many parts of the rifle using metric patterns, which means you can’t add a suppressor or brake without an adapter. (Note: Their SR models have standard 5/8×24 muzzle threads, but still use metric threads in other areas).
• Lawyer Triggers – Browning puts very heavy triggers in their rifles. It’s ironically called the “Feather Trigger.” I would not buy an X-Bolt without also buying a Timney replacement trigger for the X-Bolt. It’s a 2-minute install and you’ll have a much better gun.
• Price – Price points aren’t competitive anymore. It’s tough to recommend an X-Bolt when you can get a Bergara B14 with a much stiffer stock and better action, or a Savage Ultralite with a high-end carbon fiber wrapped barrel for the same price.

Option #4: Fierce Carbon Rogue

Fierce Firearms is a smaller rifle maker who creates all of their firearms in Utah. They stick out to me for a few reasons: (1) They are experts with carbon fiber so they’re rifles are usually very light, and (2) they make the coolest looking rifles on the market.

The Rogue is a hybrid rifle. It has a carbon stock and carbon-wrapped barrel. It has modern touches like a picatinny rail for mounting a bipod, and QD flush cups. Yet, it has a more traditional grip rather than a vertical pistol grip.

In my review of the Carbon Rogue, I found it to be accurate, extremely well-built, perfect at feeding, and it looks great. It’s a premium rifle at just over $2,000, but it can honestly compete with a full custom rifle that costs twice as much.

Watch my full review of the Rogue on Youtube.

Option #5: Fierce Mountain Reaper

Fierce Firearms has been one of my favorite manufacturers of high-end rifles for a while. They seem to understand that shooters want cool-looking, lightweight, shootable rifles.

While Fierce has had their Reaper model for quite a while, it was a little heavy. Now, they’ve started making the Mountain Reaper which takes all the best features of the Reaper, but puts them in a lightweight package.

It has a magnesium chassis, a titanium action, and weighs less than 6 lbs in many chamberings. Fierce rifles generally mitigate recoil well due to their stock designs and Limbsaver recoil pads, but I still might recommend a muzzle brake or suppressor to shoot 7 PRC in this light of a package. The recoil of the 7 PRC

The Fierce Mountain Reaper is available in 7 PRC with 20″ and 22″ barrels with a 1:8 twist, and personally I’d pick the 20″. My custom 7 PRC uses a 20″ barrel and I’m happy to see 2,950 fps with 150gr copper bullets for hunting.

Check out the Fierce Mountain Reaper.

Option #6: Put a 7mm PRC Barrel on a Rifle You Already Own

The fastest and cheapest way to start shooting 7mm PRC is to simply rebarrel one of your existing rifles. If you have a suitable rifle, such as a Tikka T3x, Bergara B14, Remington 700, or even a Ruger American, you can get a prefit barrel ordered and just screw it on. Done!

There are a few caveats, though. You’ll need a properly sized bolt face (the front part of the bolt that grabs on to the cartridge). The 7mm PRC uses the same bolt face as a 7mm Remington Magnum, 300 Win Mag, or a 300PRC or 6.5 PRC. If your rifle is already chambered to use that magnum bolt face, you’re set.

If your rifle doesn’t have that bolt face, you can either order a new bolt, or some actions have replaceable bolt faces which are cheap and easy to change out.

The next issue is you’ll need to make sure the rifle action is long enough. 7mm PRC has a cartridge overall length of 3.34″, so a long action is needed. If your rifle was chambered in .30-06, 300 Win Mag, 7mm Rem Mag or any other long-action cartridge, you’re set on this regard as well. If your rifle was configured for long action, you’ll probably also have a long enough magazine length for the cartridge as well.

Next, you’ll need a barrel. I like working with Preferred Barrel Blanks. They are already doing prefits for the 7 PRC, and have gone through a few reamers to find one that’s really reliable in a cartridge with extremely tight tolerances. I also found that they had many chassis options and other components available, which was nice.

Once you get your barrel, it’s just a matter of torquing it on in 5 minutes and you’re ready to go!

Option #7: Remington 700 Long Range

Remington absolutely destroyed its brand as a rifle maker over the last 20 years. Frankly, I was surprised that the owners of the new “Rem Arms” manufactured rifles even decided to bring the brand back. It seemed to me that the brand reputation was so destroyed that it would have been easier to start from scratch under a new name.

Yet, the reports I’ve heard so far from gun industry professionals that I trust has been positive. I still haven’t had my hands on one to review for the Backfire Youtube channel, but I’m eager to see if they’ve turned things around. I’ll believe it when I see it.

Prices for the new Remington in 7mm PRC are expected to be around the $1,000 price point.

Option #8: Christensen Arms MPR (And other models)

MPR stands for “Modern Precision Rifle.” It is a modern chassis design with adjustability in the stock, M-lok everywhere for attachments, and a pistol grip. It’s the type of rifle that most advanced shooters want.

I’ve reviewed a Christensen MPR on the Backfire Youtube channel and gave it mixed results. The mag well was so loose that I couldn’t believe it wasn’t a defect in the particular rifle I was using. The accuracy was okay, but not notable for a rifle in this price point. Plus, it was a little heavy for taking out into the woods.

In talking with other shooters, the MPR is a little polarizing. Some people get a good one that shoots very well and rave about it. I’ve talked with many others who have had poor accuracy or build quality issues.

Christensen is also chambering their other rifle models in 7 PRC, including:

• Ridgeline FFT – Order it from Midway USA –
• Mesa FFT – Order it from Midway USA –
• Traverse – Order it from Midway USA –
• ELR – Order it from MidwayUSA – A 7.5lbs rifle for long range shooting.
• MHR (coming soon)
• MPR

Option #9: Gunwerks Magnus Rifle System

If you are willing to shell out the big bucks (a little less than $6,000 for the bare rifle), then Gunwerks would be happy to take your money. They make extremely fine hunting rifles for shooters who value accuracy and a system that makes long-range shooting more streamlined.

Personally, if I were to spec out a new Gunwerks rifle today, I’d go with a Magnus rifle with these specs. I am naturally drawn to the lightweight hunting rifles, so I may be tempted to go with a Clymr, but after holding and playing with a Clymr stock, I found the comb was just too low to get a decent cheek weld. I can’t imagine paying that much for a rifle and having a stock that doesn’t fit.

The Magnus stock is only half a pound heavier, but provides much better ergonomics.

Gunwerks was very quick to jump on the 7mm PRC cartridge. They had their own 7 LRM cartridge for many years that was extremely similar to the 7 PRC’s design, so it wasn’t difficult for them to begin manufacturing the new cartridge.

Rifles in 7mm PRC That I Do NOT Recommend

• Mossberg Patriot – I bought a Patriot in 308. Shot some of the worst groups I’ve ever seen out of a rifle (over 5″ at 100 yards). Sent it to Mossberg for repairs and it came back shooting terrible again. Then I got a second Mossberg Patriot in 308. It also is incredibly inaccurate. I know some people have a good experience with theirs, but TWO lemons AND I sent it in for repairs and I still can’t get it to shoot? Can’t recommend.
• Savage Impulse (and Mountain Impulse) – I’m a big fan of the straight pull. It’s a really cool feature on a rifle; however, I’ve shot Savage’s Impulse twice and found it to be very clunky and heavy. Even their Mountain Impulse that is supposed to be a lightweight rifle is still a little obese for mountain hunters.
• Christensen MPR – So much of this rifle speaks to me. I love a folding stock, modern stock design with adjustable comb, and a carbon fiber design; however, I didn’t get great accuracy on the ones I’ve reviewed, and found the build quality to be okay at best. It’s an amazing design, but I don’t feel it has the polish of a gun in this price point.

What Guns Will NOT Be Available in 7mm PRC?

Surprisingly, some gun makers are noticeably absent from the list above.

The following gun makers have no imminent plans to add 7mm PRC to their lineups:

• Bergara – They told me it will likely come first in the Bergara Premier line, and then will eventually go into their less expensive guns. No models have been released yet in 7mm PRC.
• CVA – No news thus far.
• Springfield – No plans for 2020 Waypoint coming any time soon in 7mm PRC. I asked them at Shot Show and they were actually really rude about it. Totally gave me the cold shoulder for even bringing it up.
• Sig – No plans for a 7mm PRC Sig Cross coming any time soon.
• Tikka – Tikka/Sako have not announced any support for the 7mm PRC yet. Their reasoning is that they are members of CIP (basically a European version of SAAMI), which has not yet approved the 7mm PRC cartridge. I spoke with Hornady and they said they’ve already sent all information to CIP to get approved, but they work slowly.
• Weatherby – No news thus far.
• Howa – No news thus far.

List of Currently Available Rifles in 7mm PRC

The following table has a full list of the rifles that are currently announced and imminently available in 7mm PRC. There are over 20 rifle manufacturers who have announced they’ll be supporting the cartridge, but I haven’t yet seen listings for some of the volume manufacturers yet.

What to Look for in a 7mm PRC Rifle

Indulge me for a moment as we look at some of the very unique aspects of the cartridge, and what kind of rifle we would ideally have to take advantage of those unique features.

• Built for Long Range Shooting – 7mm bullets, if all else is equal have the highest BC’s of any other caliber in the most common bullets for hunting. Because of the high BC’s, you’ll have great resistance to drop and drift-making this a long-range shooter. Pick a rifle platform that matches that capability with a good adjustable comb and modern stock design to help you stretch this thing out.
• A Good Track Record of Attention to Detail and a Good Warranty – 7mm PRC uses very tight chamber tolerances. Several manufacturers I’ve worked with have spoken to me about struggling to not have their guns go over pressure if they slightly undersize the chamber, or having brass not fit properly. The PRC line can be tough for gun makers to get right, so pick a manufacturer with a good track record of customer service and attention to detail.
• Built for a Hybrid of Hunting and Range Shooting – One of the unique things about 7mm PRC is how versatile it is. The faster twist enables it to shoot heavy bullets suitable for hunting larger game, but its balance of speed and recoil also makes it a good fit for target shooting. Pick a rifle platform that allows you to take advantage of both-lightweight for hunting, but stock fitment features (like adjustable cheek piece and a good trigger) to make it do well on the range.
• 20″ or 22″ Barrel Lengths – Some shooters may want long 26″ barrels to take advantage of all of the speed available, but hunters generally want shorter barrel lengths to make the gun more packable. The 7mm PRC is well-suited to shorter barrel lengths because it has a moderate powder supply, and a fat case. For me, I went with a 20″ barrel, because I usually shoot suppressed and like the “handiness” of a short gun.
• Quality Recoil Pad, Threaded Muzzle – I’m picky about recoil pads. It makes a big difference in the felt recoil, but so many manufacturers use cheap, junky products. Because the recoil is on the upper end of what most adult shooters can shoot well, having a good recoil pad and a threaded muzzle so you can add a suppressor or muzzle brake, can make a big difference.
• Not Overly Light Weight – Because 7 PRC is built for longer range shooting and it has noticeable recoil, I’d suggest not going into an ultralight platform under 6.5 pounds unless you’ll be using a muzzle brake or suppressor.

List of Rifle Makers Supporting 7mm PRC

The following list comes from Hornady of rifle makers who have announced support for 7mm PRC rifles.

The 1998-99 deer season will probably be remembered for many things. The weather was scorching hot and bone dry throughout most of the season, white oaks were barren in many places where the deer season normally revolves around white oak acorns, and most hunters reported an absent, insignificant or off-schedule rut. Who would have guessed that such a season will also be remembered for a Telfair County buck that might be the best killed in Georgia in 25 years, maybe even a new state record?

Billy Joe Padgett, 23, of Jacksonville, Ga., killed the buck on Thanksgiving morning, Nov. 26. The non-typical rack has 36 scoreable points on what is a very high and wide 8-point frame, but it is the mass that is most striking. The circumference measurements at the base of each beam is in the neighborhood of 10 inches. The smallest of eight circumference measurements is greater than 6 inches.

These facts are leading experienced scorers who have looked at the rack to estimate that the deer, when officially scored, will approach or even surpass the current state record of 240 5/8 non-typical inches, which is the Hatton buck, killed by John L. Hatton Jr. in Monroe County in 1973.

The 60 days that must pass before the rack can be officially scored are slipping away fast, and we’ll know soon whether we have a new state record or not. And in case you are a Week 10 Truck-Buck entrant, here’s the answer to your burning question: Billy Joe is a GON subscriber, and yes, his buck is a Week 10 entrant.

Billy Joe killed the buck on the White Oak Plantation Sportman’s Club, an 8,800-acre tract on the Ocmulgee River in Telfair County that has been under quality deer management since it was established five years ago. Billy Joe’s father, Ernest Padgett, was a founding member of the club and helped develop a cooperative agreement among neighboring clubs that has resulted in quality management on more than 14,000 contiguous acres.

This summer, Ernest and his sons were posting and installing locks on a new 800-acre addition to the White Oak club when they came across some very impressive rubs from the previous season. Needless to say, Ernest and Billy Joe had a good idea where they would start hunting when the season came in.

On Oct. 27, the first Tuesday of gun season, Billy Joe got a look at the buck that was probably responsible for the rubs. Watching the buck walk across a field of young planted pines, Billy Joe thought that the deer must still be in velvet: the rack just seemed too big, heavy and dark. The buck crossed Billy Joe’s entrance path and began running for cover, and Billy Joe got one clear shot at 75 yards. He took it and missed clean.

Billy Joe and his dad began hunting the buck as often as they dared, hoping the pressure would not make the buck leave the area. In early November, Ernest got a look at the buck moving at a brisk walk at 175 yards. He shot and immediately saw dust bloom under the buck’s neck. Once again, not a hair was to be found.

Early in the week of Thanksgiving, Ernest heard a buck chasing a doe in a pine thicket, and a loud, deep, steady grin sounded convincingly like a mature buck. Ernest grunted in response, but the deer never appeared.

On Thanksgiving morning, Ernest would not be hunting, so he told his son how to get to the stand where he had heard the grunting buck.

Daylight had barely arrived when Billy Joe finished a short series on his grunt call and looked up to see the huge buck they had been hunting. At 50 yards, Billy Joe was given a broadside shot. When he fired, the buck raised its tail and bolted, and Billy Joe, like any of us would have been, was unable to sit still for a second. He scaled quickly down from the stand, leaped over the last few steps and ran to where the buck had been standing. Forty yards from that spot, Billy Joe began to breathe again when he located the first blood.

Moments later, he topped a small rise and found himself looking at the buck, which was lying on the ground, head up, watching him. The deer began to rise, and Billy Joe snapped of a shot at its neck. As the buck disappeared at a run into planted pines, he fired a third time, then ran after it.

Billy Joe lost sight of the buck right away, but ahead he could see pine sapling swaying in the buck’s wake, and he followed at a sprint. It was not far before he saw the buck again, now its massive rack of antlers had been caught up in a pine sapling. As it struggled to run, Billy Joe charged up and grabbed the left beam in his hand. With the rifle in the other hand, he fired point-blank into the buck’s chest, then turned loose just as the buck freed itself and disappeared again.

Once again, Billy Joe was running after it, but the chase ended only a few yards farther on when the buck piled up, and a fifth and final shot was placed. Fifteen minutes passed between the first and the last shot. Four of the shots had connected.

The rack must dry for a minimum of 60 days before it can be scored by an official Boone & Crockett measurer. Because the scoring of this unusual rack will be difficult and time consuming, and because the final score will be highly anticipated, no green score will be taken, and coming up with an eyeball estimate for a rack like this one is guesswork at best.

Just last season, Blake Voltz, of Columbus, came within 9 inches of matching the Hatton Buck with his Musgoee County non-typical buck that scored 231 2/8 inches. Will Billy Joe’s buck fall short as well or will the state record whitetail have a new name by February?

Editor’s Note: Kim Adams of the White Oak Sportsman’s Club contributed to this report.

Picture yourself getting the jump on a big prairie dog town. You crest a hill, lay your trusty .22 across a fencepost, and peer through your scope. It’s pretty far. You might need to aim a little bit high. If only you paid more attention to the MOA vs MRAD debate.

Experience might tell you that your bullet hits a certain distance low at 150 yards and a little more at 200 yards, but “a little low” doesn’t give you much to work with, especially when you don’t even know the distance to your target. Even if you knew exactly how many inches low it was at the distance you’re trying to shoot, could you really picture that in your scope with any degree of accuracy?

What you need is a way to make precise, calculated adjustments to compensate for proven ballistic performance. That’s where minutes of angle (MOA) and milliradian (MRAD) come in. These concepts are absolutely essential to shooting well — even if all you’re doing is zeroing your pistol’s red dot — and figuring them out might be easier than you think.

What are MOA and MRAD?

Both MOA (minutes of angle) and MRAD (milliradian) are methods of measuring angular units. Bullets aren’t laser beams, so we all understand that we have to aim high to engage targets that are far away from us. Rather than calculating bullet drop to inches, creating a mental estimation of what that looks like, and aiming at a point in space above our desired point of impact, we use these angular units to get on target.

Both methods are more than capable of facilitating precision shooting. They’re not interchangeable, though, so your rifle scope, reticle spotting scope, ballistic tables, and any software you use will need to be on the same page. Eventually, you’ll learn to think in MOA or MRAD and be able to make better adjustments on the fly.

MOA: What You Need To Know

The majority of all sighting systems (scopes, red dots, holographic sights, and iron sights) sold in the U.S. use MOA because this unit works well with imperial units — specifically inches and yards.

What is MOA?

There are 360 degrees in a circle and 60 minutes in a degree. One minute (MOA) equals 1/21,600 of a circle.

At 100 yards, one MOA equals 1.047 inches. Since it’s angular, the same one-MOA angle expands to 2.094 inches at 200 yards, 3.141 inches at 300 yards, and so on. Moving your point of aim one MOA shifts your point of impact 1.047 inches at 100 yards.

That’s not very precise, so most optics use quarter-MOA adjustments. If your scope turret is labeled “one click = 1/4 MOA,” you’ll be able to refine your point of impact in 0.26-inch increments at 100 yards.

By using 1/4-MOA adjustments, we divide a circle into 86,400 slices, and each click of your turret moves your point of aim 0.004 degrees.

What About “Shooter’s MOA?”

Many people use what’s called “Shooter’s MOA,” which rounds MOA to the nearest quarter-inch. That’s why you’ll hear people say that one MOA equals one inch at 100 yards. They’ll equate one click of a 1/4-MOA turret to 0.25 inches at 100 yards rather than 0.26 inches at 100 yards.

It’s not exactly correct, but it’s close enough in some cases. At longer distances, this shortcut will catch up with you.

At 1,000 yards, .308 Win might drop 393 inches. Using MOA, your come-up in that situation (393 inches / 10.47 inches per MOA at that range) would be 37.5 MOA, and your point of aim would be 393 inches above your point of impact, matching bullet drop exactly.

If you were using Shooter’s MOA, your come-up would be 39.3 MOA (393 inches / 10 inches per shooter’s MOA at that range). Because scope turrets use actual MOA rather than Shooter’s MOA, your input of 39.25 MOA (the closest setting to 39.3) would result in a point of aim 411 inches above the center of your target and cause your bullet to impact 18.5 inches high. Unless you have a massive target, that’s a miss.

MRAD: What You Need To Know

Outside of the U.S., shooters generally prefer to use MRAD over MOA. Interestingly enough, American military snipers also use the metric-based MRAD system; most precision shooters do, too.

What is MRAD?

Instead of using degrees, we can divide a circle into 6.283 radians. Inside each radian are 1,000 milliradians (mils, for short) for a total of 6,283 mils in a circle. Random, right? Damn Europeans.

There’s a method to this madness because one mil equates to 10 centimeters at 100 meters.

In the same way that we don’t make adjustments in whole MOA, we don’t make them in whole mils, either. Scopes turn in 1/10-mil increments, so one click on your turret translates to one centimeter at 100 meters.

A scope’s 1/10-mil adjustments divide a circle into 62,832 pieces, and each click moves your point of aim to 0.006 degrees.

When you range targets in yards, using MRAD can feel clumsy.

But when you range targets in meters, using the 1/10 MRAD adjustments on your scope turrets is straightforward.

MRAD vs MOA: Which Should You Use?

Knowing that both systems are effective doesn’t make your scope-purchasing decision any easier. There has to be a reason some shooters prefer one over the other.

Why You Should Use MRAD

Using the 100-yard example, a typical MOA scope will let you make adjustments in finer increments. Remember that, at 100 yards, 1/4 MOA equals 0.26 inches while 110 mil equals 0.36 inches. But if MOA is more precise, why do snipers and competitive shooters almost universally prefer MRAD?

In the real world, there is a practical limit to the degree of precision we’re capable of extracting from a shooting system (our rifle, scope, and ammunition).

“On the milliradian optic, I’m doing 1/10 of a mil click in whatever direction, that’s going to equal roughly 2.5 inches at 700 yards,” Eliasson said in the Vortex Edge podcast. “If I do that same click on a 1/4-minute adjustment minute of angle optic that’s about two inches — a little under, I think it is. So it’s like two, 2.5 at 700; can you shoot that good?”

Both MOA and MRAD deliver the precision you need, and MRAD scopes can save time by making adjustments in slightly larger leaps, as Eliasson discovered during his time as a Marine Corps scout sniper.

“We got the 1/4-minute adjustment optic on our gun, and I felt like I was just adjusting for days,” he said. “It was just click, click, click, click, click, click to get where I needed to go. I thought that was kind of hindering us to a degree.”

The base-10 nature of MRAD can also make life simpler when you’re shooting under pressure.

“If somebody says, ‘Come up 0.7’ that’s seven clicks,” James Hamilton, host of the Vortex Edge podcast, said. “And if they’re like, ‘1.7’ that’s 17 clicks. But if somebody says, ‘Come up 2-3/4 MOA’ I’m like, ‘Okay one click is 1/4 MOA, so that’s four clicks per one MOA, so that means four times two is eight, plus 3/4 is three, eight plus three is — you know?”

Simply put, MRAD scopes get us inside the margin of human error with less time spent converting quarters to clicks, counting tiny hash marks, and fiddling around with our scope turrets. Since most competitive shooters use MRAD, that route will also make it easier to learn from others if you have ambitions of getting started in long range shooting.

Why You Should Use MOA

Most shooters who prefer MOA optics probably appreciate the unit’s relative correlation to inches and yards rather than adapting to the metric system.

“As Americans, if you were born and raised here, we tend to think in inches, and it’s really hard to associate what 10 centimeters looks like,” Eliasson said. “Our brain kind of wants to think about it in 10 inches, not 10 centimeters.”

The combined market for MOA hunting scopes and low-power variable optics with a BDC (a bullet drop compensator reticle like the one in the Trijicon ACOG) is probably larger than it is for MRAD scopes. Red dot optics and holographic sights almost universally use MOA. That alone might be enough to sway you, especially if you don’t need a fancy mil-dot reticle.

“Some of our optics that I’m thinking of are very, very well-suited for hunting and they’re just not even available in MRAD,” Hamilton said. “In my head, I’m thinking getting the right optic is more important than getting some super-duper special unit of measurement.”

The reality is that the advantages of MRAD scopes don’t matter at the distances most people shoot. Plenty of hunters and recreational shooters do just fine by zeroing at 50 yards, having a usable point of aim out to about 200 yards, and falling back on Shooter’s MOA in a pinch.

Use Your MOA Or MRAD Reticle to Estimate Range

You can use both MOA and MRAD to perform useful calculations in the field if you have a technical reticle. Knowing how to use these formulas will help you get the most out of your scope.

Make the resulting adjustments by dialing your turrets or using a holdover based on the subtensions in your reticle.

Range Estimation

Yards to target = (size of target in inches x 95.5) / size of target in MOA

Yards to target = (size of target in inches x 27.77) / size of target in mils

To use these formulas, you’ll need to know the size of your target in inches. Between that known size, the size of the target in MOA or MRAD as measured with your reticle, and the appropriate constant (95.5 for MOA or 27.77 for MRAD), you can determine the distance to your target in yards.

Size Estimation

Size of target in inches = (yards to target x size of target in MOA) / 95.5

Size of target in inches = (yards to target x size of target in MRAD) / 27.77

The size estimation formula is based on the range estimation formula; it just solves for a different variable. This is particularly useful for hunters who want to gauge a game animal’s size from a distance.

Wind Estimation with an MOA Reticle

MOA adjustment = [wind speed x (range / 100)] / constant

Constants vary by cartridge. For .308 Win, use a constant of 12. For 6.5 Creedmoor, use a constant of 17.

MOA adjustment = (range / 100) -1

The above formula is for a full-value 10 mph wind. Changes based on a wind direction are made after calculating your hold in MOA.

Wind Estimation with an MRAD Reticle

The above pattern is fairly universal, but you may need to tweak an adjustment here or there. Your specific rifle and ammunition will have a certain wind speed at which you can use this formula.

If you shoot a “6 mph gun” in a full-value 6 mph right-to-left wind, you would hold 0.5 mils right at 500 yards. If the same wind were a half value, your hold would be 0.25 mils. If the wind were full value but 3 mph, your hold would be 0.25 mils.

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A lot of people tell me they’re interested in switching their traditional grass lawn over to a clover lawn. Now, a clover lawn could mean you are intentionally adding clover to your lawn, or it could mean you are planting only clover. Usually the people I encounter are considering a lawn made up entirely of clover — no other plants… a monoculture.

When you search Google Images for lawn alternatives you are sure to find some beautiful eye candy showing gorgeous, perfectly uniform lawns made up entirely of microclover, a cultivar of white clover bred to grow to a very short height. The human eye seems to be really attracted to simple, clean, and manicured. They like patterns and uniformity. I’m all for minimalism and simplicity, but nature often is not a fan. Nature wants diversity, chaos, checks and balances.

I think most people find appeal in a clover lawn because it doesn’t need to be mowed. It also would possibly need less watering and fertilizing (though that doesn’t need to be done in a grass lawn either). These points appear at first glance to equate to fewer resources — great! They might also be attracted to the fact that clover simply is not grass, so it’s counter-culture (also wonderful).

But while I applaud anyone looking into lawn alternatives, this particular approach has some major problems.

1. It’s still a monoculture.

Monocultures, cultivation of a single plant in a given area, are difficult to maintain, especially in medium moisture environments where clover thrives. You will be battling weeds if you want to maintain a clover-only lawn. Monocultures are also risky, because you’re putting all your eggs in one basket (or is it “seeds in one packet”?). If your clover fails, there are no other plants there to cover the soil and you’ll need to start all over again attempting to establish something in exposed soil.

2. Grass will show up.

Unless you consistently use a grass-specific herbicide, grass will grow in your clover lawn. If you are trying to maintain a clover monoculture, this means you will either have to spray or pull the grass. Pulling grass, especially in an area the size of a lawn, would be exhaustive or in some cases outright impossible. If you don’t spray or pull the grass, you will need to mow the grass to avoid fines if you live in a city (most cities have ordinances limiting grass/weed heights). All of these options directly contradict many of the reasons most people are looking into a clover lawn.

3. It has less foot traffic tolerance.

Clover isn’t quite as tolerant of foot traffic as grass. For example, if I were to go outside and practice Taekwondo forms in the lawn, and I picked a spot that was more clover than grass, the repetitive spinning and pivoting would completely tear up the delicate clover stems and leaves. In comparison, grass can withstand much more abuse. I can practice for an hour in the same spot on grass, and it’ll just be flattened and spring back to full force within a day or two.

4. It’s less aggressive.

Clover is simply less aggressive than grass in spreading and growing. When you are trying to grow a lawn, this quality is highly desired. That’s why grass is used in high foot traffic areas. It’s a tough plant, but it also grows and spreads like crazy, so even if the plant is harmed, it just rapidly clones and reseeds and all is good again.

5. It dies back in the winter.

Clover also dies back in the winter and needs to grow back from the roots in the spring. So there will be a period of time where there is no ground cover. And what do you get when you mix zero plant cover with spring rain? Yes, mud. With grass, the plant above the soil stays intact but goes dormant. Then it springs back to life in the spring. Even before it’s green, it’s still there, covering the soil in a thick mat and preventing erosion and mud pits.

6. It’s resource intensive.

A clover monoculture lawn will be just as hard to maintain as a grass monoculture lawn. It may require herbicides or hours and hours of labor pulling grass and weeds. And it may need to be watered in times of drought. Plus, if you currently have a grass lawn, you will need to kill or remove the current living plants to sow the clover seeds. Then you will need keep everyone off, water consistently, and battle a major onslaught of weeds who will flock to your exposed soil until the clover is established.

My opinion

What I foresee for people who try to convert to a clover lawn is that they will eventually give up the battle against the grass and start mowing it. What they will end up with is a grass lawn with clover — which is great because clover is a very useful and beneficial additive to lawns (it fixes nitrogen), along with other great plants that tolerate mowing and foot traffic. But, it would have been a lot easier, cheaper, and less painful, to have just started off adding some clover seed into their grass lawns.

The bottom line: If you need a lawn (find out here) use grass, but also allow biodiversity so it’s less boring, cheaper, easier to maintain, and better for the local ecology. Plants that show up in your lawn and stay there, are plants that want to grow in those conditions. As long as they are not considered invasive species let them grow! All plants have evolved to be here because they serve a purpose in their ecosystems. Nature has handed them to you as a gift. Learn what each plant is — most weeds also have human uses, too. They might be edible or medicinal or useful as cut flowers. They might also help fertilize and/or aerate your lawn and give food to wildlife. When you open your heart and your lawn to a variety of plants, amazing things happen.