Dove season sneaks up on you. One day, you’re mowing the lawn, fishing or, heaven forbid, playing golf. The next, you’re up to your ankles in smoking empties. According to an often-quoted statistic, you’ll shoot five to seven shells per dove bagged. At that rate, the hull pile gets deep in a hurry.

It doesn’t have to be that way. There’s not much you can do now about the clay targets you didn’t shoot this past summer. That will be next year’s project. But I can help in the short term. Here are 25 tips to make your dove season better.

1. Pick the Right Gun

Dove hunting is supposed to be fun, and if you enjoy shooting family heirlooms or featherlight .410s at doves, who am I to tell you not to? But if your idea of fun is hitting more doves, choose a 12- or 20-gauge with some heft and at least a 28-inch barrel. A longer, heavier gun swings smoothly, points surely and soaks up recoil. The best dove shooting I did this past year was with a 12-gauge sporting clays gun.

2. Stock Up On Shells

Ammunition is available again, and there’s no reason to run out opening day, which I have actually done. Begging shells from people in the field is just embarrassing. Field or target loads of Nos. 7½ or 8 lead or 6 or 7 steel work. Steel loads kill fine, by the way. Lighter loads, with less shot and lower velocities, kick a lot less than heavy, high-speed stuff, and you will shoot a lot in no more padding than a T-shirt. Be sure your ammo will cycle your semi-auto, but other than that, lighter is better.

3. Improve Your Chances

A more open choke, such as improved cylinder, increases your chances of hitting doves. While conducting a test of lead and steel dove loads in Texas, during which more than 1,100 doves were bagged, ballistics expert Tom Roster recorded data on chokes. Shooters using improved cylinder hit 26% of their shots. Those with modified chokes recorded a 21% hit rate. Full-choke shooters succeeded on only 16% of their attempts.

4. Clean your Gun

The only thing worse than emptying your gun at a dove without touching a feather is not being able to empty your gun. If you put your shotgun away at the end of the previous season and forgot about it, it’s time to get reacquainted. Clean it, making sure to strip off the old oil. Then lightly oil it, and wipe away most of that oil.

5. Shoot

Even shooting a box of shells before opening day is much better than not shooting at all. Concentrate on two things: keeping your eyes on the target throughout the shot, and matching your gun speed to the target’s speed. With most hunters, that means slowing way down.

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6. Bring an Extra Gun

The best emergency repair kit is an extra gun. Pack an extra of the same gauge into the field. Breaking out the spare gun is much more convenient than going back to the truck for it or trying to fix your gun, and it’s more dignified than asking other hunters if they have a gun you can borrow.

7. Scout Late

Unlike shooting practice, which should start after turkey season, dove scouting is actually best put off as long as possible. Doves react quickly as sunflowers are cut or harvest begins, and their patterns can change in a day. Birds won’t necessarily be where you saw them a week ago.

8. Watch the Wires

When you scout in the morning and late in the day, look for doves on power lines, where they gather before feeding. Here’s my rule of thumb when I’m scouting cut cornfields: If I see 10 doves sitting together, the field might be worth hunting. If there are 20, it’s definitely worth hunting. A lot more than 20 means I’m calling my friends.

9. Find Water

In addition to food, look for water, especially ponds with some bare dirt around the edges where doves might come to drink. If you find a waterhole, you can have some very good close chances during the last hour of shooting light as doves get a drink before roosting.

10. Check the Crop

Not all dove fields attract birds equally. Sunflowers might look good to us, but for some reason, doves prefer one field to another. If you show up at a dove field without scouting, you might not get much shooting.

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11. Watch the Harvest

A harvested or cut field can attract just as many doves as a managed sunflower field. Where I live, I’ve had my best hunts in cornfields that have been chopped for silage. In other places, it might be a harvested canola or sunflower field. Look for recently opened fields and doves sitting on wires on dead trees around them.

12. Look for Flight Lines

Every dove field has its hot corners where the shooting is better. Before the season starts, watch a field to see where birds are flying in and out. This past year, I found the best dove field at a nearby public area and watched it long enough to see that most doves were cutting across one of the far corners. I was there the next day and had a good shoot.

13. Look for Trees

The right bare tree on the field edge or sometimes in the field might attract doves that want to perch in the branches before flying down to feed. If you find such a tree, you’ll get easy shots at birds coming in for a landing.

14. Take Good Shots

During opening day in a good field, you’ll get lots of chances, and at first, you’ll want to take every one. Calm down. You’ll get shooting. Keep your shots within 30 yards. You’ll hit a higher percentage, use fewer shells and cripple fewer birds, and you won’t have to spend time looking for birds you knocked down and can’t find.

15. Look at the Eye

Where your eyes go, your hands take the gun. Looking at the whole bird increases the chance of a miss or hit too far back in the body. When doves are close, try to see the bird’s eye or beak, and you’ll hit it in head. If the bird is farther out, look at the head, and you’ll hit it in the front end.

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16. Own the Overheads

The overhead shot is one of the most common you’ll experience in the dove field — and they’re frequently missed. Bring your gun up behind an incoming bird, moving just fast enough to pass through it. Shoot when the gun blocks out your view of the head. If the target is high, block out the head, keep the gun moving for an instant, and then shoot. Keep your head on the gun until after the shot. Yes, overheads really are that easy.

17. Crush the Crossers

We know crossing targets require lead, yet most are missed several feet behind — not as a result of too little lead but by shooters stopping their swing. The main reason shooters stop their swing is because they look at the gun to check their lead, and looking at the gun makes it stop. Focus on the bird, and swing through it, moving just a bit faster than the target. Keep your focus on the bird’s head, and let your hands take the gun in front of it. Trust your eyes and hands, and pull the trigger.

18. Mark the Falls

Watch every dove you shoot at. Some might sail and then fall dead. Any time you hit a dove, get a good mark, and walk straight to it if you’re hunting without a retriever. Dead doves can disappear in the sparsest of cover and can be almost impossible to find if you drop them in long grass and don’t go to right to them, keeping your eye on the spot all the way. Always bring a loaded gun, as dead doves sometimes flush and fly off.

19. Skip the Doubles

Unless I’m hunting over bare ground and birds are close, I rarely try doubles. Finding both birds can be surprisingly time-consuming and can cost you shots because you’re not sitting on your bucket looking up.

20. Stop at Two

Most third shots are wasted. Unless you know you hit a bird that’s still flying, stop at two shots, and you’ll still have a third ready for that dove that comes floating past after you empty your gun at a screaming crosser.

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21. Hide in Plain Sight

The best way to hide from doves is to sit still in the shade. When I hunt sunflowers or cornfields, I’ll find a seat with the sun at my back and standing corn or sunflowers behind me, and I can be invisible to doves. Earth-toned clothes or the right camo help, too. Doves can see color, and although they aren’t the wariest birds, they will flare if they see you move.

22. Don’t Go Low

In crowded dove fields, don’t take low shots that might endanger dogs or other hunters in the field picking up birds. See some sky below your gun barrels before you take a shot.

23. Protect Your Ears

You will shoot a lot during a dove hunt. After my first dove hunt, during which I shot five boxes of shells, my ears rang for three days. Since then, I have always worn foam plugs for hunting, and although I’m not getting less deaf, I hear better than a lot of my friends do.

24. Protect Your Eyes

Not everyone abides by tip No. 22, and shot-proof glasses can save your eyes from an unsafe shooter. And while you’re at it, choose a lens color that will help you bag more birds. On a bright day, a bronze tint lets you see and still brings out colors on the birds. Rose works, too, and you should always choose the lightest tint possible. Dark-gray sunglasses make everything dark and harder to see and are a bad choice.

25. Don’t Hang Your Gun Up After Opening Day

There is so much more to dove hunting than Sept. 1. Keep at it. You might have to scout harder or lean on your network of friends to see who has birds and what you have to do to wrangle an invitation. Remember, too, that doves are migratory birds, and more will come. Whatever you have to do, it’s well worth it for a chance to keep hunting doves long after opening day.

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Deers are scavengers and eat a variety of things. They will eat most anything from plants to carrion. Deer will eat anything from bread to apples. Deer will eat anything, so long as it is in the right spot. It would be best if you cared to keep your house and yard clear of anything enticing a deer to eat it. It would help if you keep your trash can covered or take it to the curb for pick-up.

Will Deer Eat Bread?

Deer are often seen nibbling on grass and other plants, but people sometimes wonder if deer will eat bread. The answer is yes, deer will eat bread, but it is not their preferred food source. Deer are mostly herbivores, and their diet consists mostly of plants. However, deer are opportunistic feeders, meaning they will eat other things if their preferred food is unavailable. Bread is not as nutritious as plants, so deer will only eat it if they are hungry enough.

Is It a Good Idea to Feed Deer Bread?

No, it is not a good idea to feed deer bread. Deer are herbivores, and their diet consists mostly of plants. They can digest plant-based material better than bread. Bread is also not a natural food for deer and can cause them to become overweight and lazy.

White Bread or Brown Bread: Which One is Better for Deer?

While white and brown pieces of bread can provide deer with a good source of nutrition, brown bread is generally considered to be better for them. This is because brown bread contains more fiber and nutrients than white bread. Additionally, brown bread is less likely to cause digestive problems in deer than white bread.

What Amount of Bread Should a Deer Eat?

Deer love bread and will eat as much as they can find. If you are feeding deer bread as a supplement to their diet, it is important not to overfeed them. A general rule of thumb is to offer 1-2 slices of bread per day per deer. If you are feeding a large group of deer, it is best to scatter the bread around so that all deer can eat.

Risks Involved In Feeding Deer Bread

While bread may not be the healthiest food for deer, it is not poisonous to them, and deer will eat bread if they are hungry enough. However, there are some risks associated with feeding deer bread. The first is that deer may become accustomed to being fed and become a nuisance. The second is that bread does not provide the deer with all the necessary nutrients and can cause health problems if fed in large quantities.

Bread is not a natural food for deer, but they will eat it if they are hungry enough. Bread is high in carbohydrates and low in nutrients, so it is not a good food for deer to eat regularly. If you see deer eating bread, it is best to give them other, more nutritious food.

Deer can technically eat moldy bread, but it’s not the best thing for them. Moldy bread can cause digestive issues for deer and is also not the most nutrient-rich food. If you’re going to feed deer bread, it’s best to give them fresh or stale bread instead of moldy bread.

Moldy bread can cause digestive issues for deer and is also not the most nutrient-rich food. If you’re going to feed deer bread, it’s best to give them fresh or stale bread instead of moldy bread.

Yes, deer can eat bread, but it is not their favorite food. Deer prefer to eat acorns, leaves, and grass. However, if no other food is available, bread can be a good option.

Conclusion:

Deers will eat bread if they are hungry enough, but it is not the healthiest food for them. Bread is not a natural part of a deer’s diet, and their stomachs can have difficulty digesting it. If you must feed deer bread, do so in moderation and supplement their diet with other healthy foods.

Deer are browsers, meaning that they primarily eat leaves, twigs, and other vegetation. In the wild, they rarely eat anything else. However, if they are desperate for food, they eat just about anything, including bread. While bread is not the healthiest food for deer, it will not kill them. If you must feed deer bread, do so in moderation and supplement their diet with other healthy foods.

We caught up with Jay Scott of Colburn and Scott Outfitters and learned about his well-earned success on the trickiest turkeys out there. He’s the host of the Jay Scott Outdoors Western Hunting & Fishing Podcast, but he is also a passionate hunter, angler, and big game guide.

Read on to learn about his relentless turkey hunting process and what it takes to get birds on the ground with his top spring turkey hunting tips and tricks.

Table of Contents:

Introduction 1. Better to Be Early Than Late 2. Carry More Calls Than You Need 3. Locator Calls Don’t Have to Be Perfect 4. Don’t Blow a Coyote Howler at Roosted Birds 5. Pinpoint Where They Roost 6. Tactics Once They’re on the Ground 7. Play Hard to Get! 8. Be Patient 9. Go for Round Two 10. Use the Roads to Your Advantage 11. Get As Close As You Can 12. Calling Cadence Outweighs Tone and Sound 13. Decoy Positioning SHOP THE FULL GEAR LIST

SPRING TURKEY HUNTING IS ONE OF MY FAVORITE SEASONS OF THE YEAR.

For many years as a beginner turkey hunter, I really struggled with calling birds into archery or shotgun range. I’ve been schooled by so many birds that it would seem silly for me to even write an article on bowhunting or shotgun hunting turkeys.

But like lots of other things in life, it seems that persistence usually pays off. I’ve been taught many things by veteran turkey hunters whom I have constantly bombarded with questions on the “Do’s and Don’ts” and “Tips & Tricks” of turkey hunting.

I’ve also learned a lot from trial and error with the turkeys themselves. I’m constantly learning something new about spring turkey hunting every day that I pursue them. One thing I’ve learned is that no two wild turkeys act the same but there are some turkey hunting tactics that can be repeated which will increase your odds of harvesting this magnificent animal.

I’ve attempted to outline some things to remember when chasing these weary longbeards. I hope that one of these turkey tactics will be something you can latch on to and incorporate into your turkey hunting routine.

1. BETTER TO BE EARLY THAN LATE

I always try to set my alarm 30 minutes earlier than my calculated time to get to the roost tree. Usually my alarm goes off around 3:00 AM during turkey season.

I like to be sitting in the dark waiting for the grey in the eastern sky and set up in my position at least 30 minutes before the first call of the hens or first gobble. It gives the woods some time to settle down after I just walked into the roosting area.

It also gives you time to go to plan B if something goes wrong prior to your setup. Another advantage to being early is usually that puts me ahead of other hunters. Being early will never work against you.

2. CARRY MORE CALLS THAN YOU NEED

It is good to have several diaphragms, slates, and box calls. Sometimes the birds will especially like one call or another. The worst feeling in the world is not having the right call.

Don’t be afraid to take a gobble call either (be very careful using the gobbler call on public land).

3. LOCATOR CALLS DON’T HAVE TO BE PERFECT

Locator calls such as coyote howler, owl hooter or peacock don’t have to sound exactly like the natural thing to be effective in getting birds to gobble in the roost.

Quite the contrary, I’ve found that my external reed coyote howler by Primos which does not sound near as natural or authentic as my diaphragm coyote yelp, seems to get more of a response by roosted gobblers.

Remember, you are looking for a shocking response so sometimes the worst shrieking noise you can make will be the best for getting a gobbler to answer.

4. DON’T BLOW A COYOTE HOWLER AT ROOSTED BIRDS

In the morning when you’re too close, the roosted male turkey might answer but they will be very leery to come into your hen yelps because they think a coyote is close and they don’t want to get eaten.

An owl hooter is a much better choice when you are close to the roosted bird. When I say close, I mean within 200 yards of a rooster gobbler.

5. PINPOINT WHERE THEY ROOST

When roosting a gobbler in the evening, make sure you try to pinpoint the exact tree that the gobbler is roosted in. Often, I will get them to shock gobble and then I will sneak in as close as possible.

I then plan my setup for the morning. Things to be looking for while pinpointing the exact tree are:

• easiest way into the setup since it will be pitch dark.• exactly which tree you want to be leaning against and set up under.• which way the bird will fly down.• which way the bird won’t go, etc.

I like to mark the spot where I will setup on my GPS and allow the breadcrumb feature to bring me right into the setup spot the following morning. Be careful not to let the roosted gobbler see your light on the GPS.

6. TACTICS ONCE THEY’RE ON THE GROUND

In the morning or afternoon, when the birds are already on the ground, and you are just prospecting for gobblers by walking ridges, if you get a gobbler to respond move as close to his position without being detected as you can.

Once in close to the gobbler (within 100 yards) set up and try to call again. This works way better than calling from the original position. Now, if you are moving towards his direction and he gobbles loudly and in your direction like he is coming immediately get setup.

7. PLAY HARD TO GET!

Make the gobbler want to come to you. If you get a bird gobbling sometimes just shutting up is the deadliest tactic. I like to fire them up and then shut up.

I usually let them gobble twice before I call again. Usually, they will come hard if you use this tactic. You may risk a bird walking off because you shut up but if they are halfway interested, they will be headed your way. This may be the single best bit of information I have learned over the years.

8. BE PATIENT

In the evenings be in the roost area and be patient. I like to get in areas that I know birds like to roost. I sit and call about every fifteen minutes. The last 30 minutes before fly-up is primetime. Let’s say it is 30 minutes before fly-up and you make a series of yelps and a gobbler answers off in the distance.

I might hit him right back with a series of excited cuts and then just shut up. More than likely he will come to inspect. If they come in but not in shooting range just sit still and watch they fly up into their roost trees. Then you can attack in the morning.

One thing to keep in mind while hunting Merriam’s turkeys is that they typically like to roost on a ridgeline or at least where there is a contour break. The birds like to walk uphill from their roost tree and then coast horizontally into the branch.

This tactic helps them conserve energy by less flying. Sometimes you can roost turkeys without hearing them gobble by just listening for the ruckus of their wings flapping when they fly up.

9. GO FOR ROUND TWO

When the evening hunt does not produce a roosted gobbler for the next morning. There are several options for the following early morning hunt.

Go into an area where you have heard gobblers before and sit tight. Listen at prime time for gobblers in the area. If you can move while it is still dark, then pursue them. If not, wait until they hit the ground and sneak in close to them.

10. USE THE ROADS TO YOUR ADVANTAGE

Another option is to cover as much country as possible in hopes of hearing a roosted bird. This can be done either on foot or in a vehicle.

Wake up extra early and drive to an area where you have seen or heard turkeys. Stop every half a mile and blow your peacock or coyote howler.

11. GET AS CLOSE AS YOU CAN

Always try and get as close to a gobbler before calling to him. If you spot a gobbler with your binoculars try and move in very close to him without being detected.

I will try to get within at least 100 yards or closer if the terrain and vegetation will allow prior to making my first call. Your success goes up tenfold if you practice this method.

12. CALLING CADENCE OUTWEIGHS TONE AND SOUND

The cadence of your calling is more important than the tone and sound of your call. This opinion is debatable but I noticed a big difference in my success when a friend of mine showed me the correct cadence to my hen yelps.

He told me I sounded decent, but my rhythm was off. As soon as I changed my rhythm and cadence it was like a light switched on and the gobblers became way more consistently responsive to my calling. The key is to listen to the hens and focus on the cadence or timing/rhythm of their call.

13. DECOY POSITIONING

Position your turkey decoys at a 45-degree angle from the hunter on the opposite side of where you think the gobbler will come in from. Decoys can be a huge asset if you use them correctly.

On the flip side, they can hurt you if they are positioned on the wrong side of where you want the birds to end up. An example of the correct way to set them up would be: If the gobbler answers your calls to your left it would be best to set the decoys out to your right about 25 yards.

In this case, the bird will come to your call but when he gets close, he will see the decoys and walk right by you (or the hunter) on the way to the decoys to your right.

Remember when the gobbler gets close to remain silent and very still because he will be really looking for the turkey he heard. He should then spot the decoys. You will then be able to have a clear shot as they focus on the decoys.

WRITTEN BY JAY SCOTT

• Host of Jay Scott Outdoors Hunting and Fishing Podcast with over 34.5 million downloads.
• Professional hunting guide for 24 years in Arizona and Old Mexico.
• Has harvested many trophies around the west, which include several animals that make the Pope and Young and Boone and Crockett record books.
• Learn more about what KUIU gear Jay Scott thinks is best for hunting turkeys in his turkey gear list.
• Visit Jay Scott’s Youtube to see him in action.
• Read more about the Gould’s Turkey, the least known subspecies of wild turkey.
• Shop KUIU’s top turkey hunting gear list for the spring and fall turkey seasons.
• Learn about turkey hunting camo and gear with more top turkey hunting picks for the active turkey hunter.

Outdoor enthusiasts often encourage people to “forget the forecast.” It’s a clever way of saying to enjoy the outdoors regardless of the weather. With so many variables at play, waiting for the right conditions would keep many people inside. But does the same logic apply when it comes to bowhunting? That depends. Weather should always be top of mind for bowhunters. It affects animal movement, personal safety and meat spoilage times.

Deciding whether to hunt or not in certain weather is mostly personal preference. However, certain conditions require greater preparation, and at times, a decision to stay inside can be for the best. This preparation is important enough to note that the National Bowhunter Education Foundation has an entire section dedicated to preparing for weather conditions in its bowhunter education curriculum.

Bowhunting in the rain can dramatically change your day in both good and bad ways. Here’s a look at the pros and cons of bowhunting in rainy conditions.

Pros:

Quiet Conditions

My 2021 elk season started out frustrating. Hot, dry conditions made it sound as if I were smashing a bag full of chips with every step on the forest floor. The crunchy ground made it impossible to do anything but sit patiently and hope an elk walked by. But then it rained. Wet weather changed everything. The rain drenched the grass, leaves and pine needles, making it possible to sneak silently through the forest. The morning after the wet weather moved in, I snuck up on two bulls fighting in the trees, an encounter that would have been impossible the previous day.

Concealed Movement

Rain helps conceal movement because it creates movement. As raindrops fall, they move branches and leaves, which can be just enough to mask your movements, including drawing your bow.

Scent Killer

The smell of fresh rain is so powerful that you’ll find it replicated in scented candles and home air fresheners. But rain isn’t just an odor; it’s an odor-killer. Rain helps mask human scent. It can wash away scent trails and make it more difficult for deer to detect human presence.

Changing Wildlife Movement

Bowhunters targeting ungulates like elk and deer typically expect the majority of animal movement to occur during the early morning hours and just before dark. That’s when animals are most active feeding and moving. However, weather patterns can change traditional movement. Light rain doesn’t typically cause animals to run for cover. Heavy rains will usually make wildlife hunker down. However, after a downpour, many animals will be up and moving, looking for food. And I’ve had some incredible rainy days in the field when the animals seemed to be moving all day long.

Less Human Pressure

Remember the advice, “forget the forecast”? Well, not everybody listens. Rainy days keep a lot of hunters home. If you’re not afraid of getting a little wet, you might find yourself alone in the field.

Cons:

Added Gear Requirements

Hunting in wet weather requires the right gear. You’ll need a waterproof jacket, pants and boots. Good rain gear can get expensive, and many materials are pretty noisy. But sitting or hiking in wet weather isn’t very fun either. Getting wet isn’t only uncomfortable; it can be dangerous. Hypothermia can happen in cold conditions, like downpours. And even if the situation isn’t dangerous, shivering can give away your position or make it impossible to hold your bow steady.

Dangerous Lightning

There’s a big difference between bowhunting in a rainstorm versus a thunderstorm. Lightning is dangerous, and you don’t want to risk getting caught in the field in it, especially in a treestand. When the forecast is calling for lightning, you should probably stay home. If you find yourself caught in an unexpected thunderstorm, leave the field as soon as possible if you can. Get out of the treestand immediately. Get away from any other metal. Avoid tall objects and fence lines.

Washed-Out Blood Trails

Rain hides human scent, but it also washes away blood trails. Often blood trails play a crucial role in the recovery of downed game. If you plan to hunt in the rain, it might be a good idea to have a blood-tracking dogon standby in case you take a shot — if using one is legal in your state.

Conclusion

Whether you bowhunt in the rain is up to you, but there are always some important considerations. Check the forecast every day and look into the specifics. A drizzle is different from a downpour, and you’ll want to stay home if lightning is expected. Bring the right layers. Pack extra clothing in the truck for a quick change at the end of the day in case you get wet. Make sure you have flagging tape in your pack. Rain will wash away a blood trail fast, but flagging tape will stay.

Bowhunting in the rain can provide a lot of opportunities. If you can handle a little wet weather, you might be rewarded with a day you won’t forget.

If you’re out on a hike, or just poking around the back 40, you’re likely to see mushrooms growing from trees in the woods. Some of them are edible, some aren’t. For the purposes here, I’ve gathered useful, common mushrooms you can eat, since that’s what I’m usually looking for.

It’s important to know that the title is a little misleading. While mushrooms may appear to grow on trees, what we see is only the fruiting body that will eventually make spores and attempt to reproduce. The mushroom life force, or mycelium, is inside of the tree, waiting for the right conditions (temperature, rain, and seasonality) to fruit.

Mushrooms That Grow on Living Trees

Most of the mushrooms I look for that grow on trees grow on living, or injured trees. As you’ll see, there is some overlap between the two. Here’s a few very common mushrooms you might see on your next hike.

Oyster Mushrooms (Pluerotus and others)

Oyster mushrooms (Pluerotus species and relatives) are some of the most common mushrooms found on trees. Most of these are easy to identify, and all are edible with no poisonous mushroom look alikes.

Depending on where you are and what kind of trees are in your area, there can be a number of different species to look for. All oyster mushrooms have gills and white spore prints.

• Elm oyster mushrooms (Hypsizygus ulmarius) grow on elm trees and box elder.
• Aspen oyster mushroom (Pluerotus populina) grows on aspen.
• Pluerotus dryinus is found late in the season growing on oak and beech.
• Late Fall Oyster (Sarcomyxa serotina or Mukitake) is eaten in Japan. There’s been confusion over claims it contains carcinogens, but that information has been disproven and the mushroom is fine to eat. Reference.
• Golden Oyster Mushrooms are a new, invasive species that grows on elms, cherry and other hardwoods.

Chicken of the Woods (Laetiporus)

Chicken of the woods are extremely common, edible, and found around the world. They grow from living and dead trees, stumps, and over roots. Depending on the species they can grow from coniferous or deciduous trees. There’s a number of species, and all of them are edible, with caution. Read more about them in my post Chicken of the Woods Mushrooms.

Hen of the Woods or Maitake Mushrooms (Grifola frondosa)

Similar to chicken of the woods, maitake are a parasite of trees, typically white and red oak, but occasionally on maple. They cause a butt rot in the host tree, and are common on stumps, downed trees, and living trees.

Long appreciated in Japan where they’re known as maitake (dancing mushroom) they’re edible, delicious, and widely appreciated by many foragers East of the Rocky Mountains. Read more about them in my post on Hen of the Woods.

Resinous Polypore (Ischnoderma resinosum)

This common parasite of hardwood trees appears in the summer and is common on oaks. It’s a good mushroom for foragers to know as it’s edible and underappreciated, meaning it tastes great, but not a lot of people harvest it.

Some people call it salisbury steak of the woods, or beef of the woods, and that’s a pretty good comparison. Read more about them in my post on Resinous Polypore/Ischnoderma resinosum.

Hericiums

The genus Hericium includes lions mane and its cousins is commonly found on dying oak trees. While the coral tooth fungus (Hericium coralloides) and bearded tooth mushroom (Hericium americanum) seem to prefer dying and fallen oak trees covered in moss, lions mane (Hericium erinaceous) also likes to grow on trees that are still standing. All Hericium are edible, and taste great. Read more about them in my post Lions Mane and Hericium Mushrooms.

Enokitake (Flammulina velutipes)

Enokitake, also known as enoki and the velvet shank mushroom, are parasitic, saprobic decomposers of wood, especially elms. These are the same species of edible mushroom found in stores, but have brown stems and a yellow to orangeish cap when exposed to sunlight.

They appear in the Spring and will continue to fruit throughout the year. Make sure to be able to identify Galerina marginata if you plant to eat them. Read more about them in my post on Enokitake or Velvet Shank Mushrooms.

Pheasant Back (Cerioporus squamosus)

Also known as the dryad saddle, the pheasant back is a parasite and decomposer of hardwood trees, especially box elder and elms. Named for it’s cap scales that resembles pheasant feathers, it’s a common Spring mushroom, but can be found throughout the year.

It’s edible, and tastes very good, but gets tough quickly as it grows so it must be sliced thinly. Read more about them in my post on Dryad Saddle or Pheasant Back Mushrooms.

Wood Ear (Auricularia judae)

Wood Ear Mushrooms, also known by the outdated name of “Jews Ear” are a common decomposer of hardwood trees, often seen growing on branches. Long enjoyed in Asian cuisine, they can be added to soups and broths, especially wood ear mushroom ramen.

Witches Butter (Tremella mesenterica)

Another common tree mushroom is witches butter. This is a commonly found yellow jelly fungus often seen on fallen branches. It has a lobed appearance, and is slimy or sticky when wet.

It’s an edible mushroom, and some foragers like to simmer it in sugar syrup to make mushroom jelly candies. If you want to try that, you can substitute them in my recipe for candied black trumpet mushrooms.

Mushrooms That Prefer Dead Trees

Some mushrooms prefer dead or rotting trees over living ones, although some species like Hericium enjoy feeding on both. Here’s two very common ones you might come across.

Turkey tail (Trametes versicolor)

One of the most common mushrooms on trees in North America, and a popular mushroom mostly known for its “medicinal” benefits. Turkey tails are a decomposer of logs and stumps of deciduous trees, and on the rare occasion, coniferous trees. They’re widely used as a medicinal in things like mushroom tinctures.

Crown coral (Artomyces pyxidatus)

The crown coral mushroom is very common where I live in Minnesota. These only grow from dead, fallen logs that are decaying, and will never grow from live wood. They’re commonly confused with species of coral mushroom or Ramaria, some of which are edible. The key to separating the two genera of fungi is that Ramaria will only grow from the ground, where crown corals only grow from dead and dying wood. Learn more about them in my post on Crown-Tipped Coral Mushrooms.

Tree Feeding Mushrooms and Other Fungi

Besides the mushrooms mentioned here, there’s also many other mushrooms that may grow on trees that you may not notice. One of the most common are crust fungus. There’s many different genera here, including Phlebia, Stereum, and Thelephora. They’re common wood-decomposing fungi.

Another example is cherry knot fungus (Apiosporina morbosa), also known as black knot. It appears as charcoal-like swelling black growths on branches of cherry trees that have been injured, as well as plum trees. Cherry knot fungus will inhibit fruiting, but can be kept in check by regular pruning or fungicides.

The 17 HMR is among the finest commercial rimfires cartridges available. It is accurate, easy to shoot, and a well-placed shot is fatal for most animals. It’s widely considered one of the most accurate rimfire rifles and the best small game hunting gun available on the market.

The best animals to hunt with a 17 HMR are raccoons, rabbits, prairie dogs, squirrels, and coyotes. The 17 HMR is one of the most accurate rifles for hunting, and precision is of the utmost importance when hunting small animals.

The rest of this article will delve into the best animals to hunt with a 17 HMR.

1. Rabbits

Every year, almost 1.5 million Americans go rabbit hunting. Most states permit rabbit hunting, and some even pay professional hunters to reduce the rabbit population in areas where they’ve become invasive.

While hunting rabbits may seem easy, you’ll have to prepare thoroughly for a successful hunt. Rabbits are excellent listeners and are likely to hear you from a distance. If you wait long enough, they may escape what they believe to be a threat.

Most shooters choose the 17 HMR as their weapon of choice for rabbit hunting since it is the most effective and precise rimfire cartridges.

The typical rimfire’s rifle trajectory is not as good as the 17 HMR, which also has a faster velocity. Considering that a lighter projectile is less wind-resistant, a faster projectile also means less time for winds to steer the bullet off course.

Because of this, 17 HMR is an excellent choice for rabbit hunting.

2. Squirrels

Squirrels are challenging to hunt because of their unpredictable movements and ability to move through tree canopies. Squirrel hunting seasons are long, and hunters can legally chase squirrels for several months or more per year.

The 17 HMR is popular for squirrel hunting because the soft recoil makes it a pleasure for hunters to shoot. At 100 yards (91.44 m), the 17 HMR fires flat enough to be effective while delivering 88 ft pounds (119 Joules) of energy.

The 17 HMR cartridges offer advantages beyond just being a flat-shooting varmint cartridge. Compared to other alternatives, the 17 HMR delivers far less flesh damage while providing an even flatter trajectory and typically higher accuracy.

Simply put, as long as you do your part to make an excellent shot, a 17 HMR will allow you to strike a squirrel from just about any visible distance.

When hunting squirrels, however, avoid shooting through the trees unless you’re an experienced hunter. There’s a high chance that the bullet may bounce off the tree and injure you.

Related How To Choose the Best Rifle for Target Shooting.

3. Raccoons

The 17 HMR is a long-range knockdown weapon that is flat-shooting, very adaptable, and built on a rimfire platform. It has a flatter trajectory than the 22LR, so you might want to use this for small game like raccoons if you’re further away.

One important thing about a 17 caliber bullet is that the bullet diameter is less than that of the case. This gives you more accuracy when you’re hunting raccoons to help protect ground-nesting birds or just for pleasure.

The 17 HMR can use bullet types well-known to centerfire shooters and has outstanding ballistic eco-efficiency, resulting in a perfect shot from a distance of 200 yards (183 m) or fewer.

4. Prairie Dogs

Although relatively harmless, prairie dogs are pests in many areas. They breed swiftly, similar to other small mammals, and an uncontrolled population might seriously harm the meadows and farms they graze on. Livestock, such as horses and cattle, can suffer severe damage from the tunnels they dig.

They may also spread fleas and carry diseases that are potentially dangerous to humans and livestock.

Hunting prairie dogs is different from hunting other animals because of their relative speed. The most popular caliber for prairie dog hunting is undoubtedly the 17 HMR because of the good velocity and medium wind drift characteristics.

It is also the cheapest option and readily available. The 17 HMR is a powerful, flat-shooting, versatile rimfire cartridge that gives long-range knockdown power. It is the best option for medium to long-range shooting of prairie dogs and better than the 22LR for this animal.

While they’re not as twitchy as rabbits, they are certainly aware of their surroundings, so you’ll have to be patient and quiet when hunting them.

5. Coyotes

Coyotes are another pest that you could hunt with the 17 HMR. However, you’ll have to manage your distance and shot placement extremely well when doing so. Coyotes are much bigger than varmints typically hunted with the 17 HMR, but a well-placed shot should still drop the animal immediately.

Nevertheless, most experts won’t recommend shooting coyotes with a 17 HMR unless you’re closer than 100 yards (91.44 m) from the animal. From further away, you may even need two or three shots to finish the coyote, which is against hunting ethics.

If you’re an experienced hunter, a 17 HMR may not be right for you in this case. However, if you can get close enough, this rifle should do the trick.

For more, check out Best All-Around Camouflage Pattern Across Multiple Biomes.

1.2K

With so deer hunters many reaching for a bottle of herbicide to “improve” their food plots, are you truly helping your deer herd?

Food plotting has evolved greatly since the days of an “ol’ greenfield.” From Genetically Modified Organisms (GMOs) to precision farm equipment, today’s food plots are comparable to most commercial farming operations. Though heavily used in food plots, herbicides are likely the least understood by those applying them. So are you actually benefitting your food plots and deer by using these chemicals?

Glyphosate (AKA Roundup®)

Likely the most utilized herbicide for food plots, glyphosate or more commonly called by its trade name Roundup®, is one that is used in both food plot preparation, as well as weed and grass control in actively growing plots. Though it is one of the most commonly used herbicides, it is likely one that is least understood.

For instance, many worry about how glyphosate can affect seeds just planted or how long to wait before planting after spraying glyphosate. The answer is simple, you don’t have to wait at all. Glyphosate is a foliar-active herbicide meaning that it typically travels through the leaves of the plant to the roots to kill. So when there are no parts of the plant exposed (as is the case with seeds) then there is no possibility of killing the plant. The only benefit of waiting is to allow competition in the immediate vicinity to die back so the new plant has access to more available nutrients. In this case, it will take approximately 7-10 to start seeing significant results.

USAGE

Most glyphosate products will range in application rate. Typically this is determined by the type of plants you are trying to remove and at what growth stage. For instance, removing something like common ragweed, an annual broadleaf weed, may need 16oz/acre. But a hardy, perennial grass-like fescue could require up to 64oz/acre.

Typical herbicide application requires it to be mixed with water to create a “solution.” The amount of solution applied per acre depends on the application method. For example, if you are using a tractor and 3-point sprayer with 25-foot boom arms, then based on the tractor speed, sprayer pressure, and the number of nozzles, you will determine the amount of solution per acre. This is called “calibrating” the sprayer. Why is this important? Well let’s say your sprayer puts out 15 gallons of solution per acre, and you are wanting to apply 64oz of glyphosate per acre to kill fescue. Then you will need to add 14.5 gallons of water (15 gallons of “solution” less 64oz of glyphosate) for every 64oz of glyphosate to adequately treat an acre.

Calibrating a sprayer ensures that you are killing the plants you want, and at the same time not negatively affecting the crops you want to grow. Too much glyphosate can dramatically reduce yields in crops (like “yellow flash” in soybeans, corn, alfalfa, or wheat) or worse, kill the plants you were trying to release from the competition. Not enough glyphosate applied wastes your time and money, by not effectively removing the weeds and grasses resulting in continued competition and a drop in yield. So as you can see there is a lot more to spraying than just “running and gunning.”

BENEFITS

There is a limited amount of nutrients (Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium, Calcium, etc.) and resources (like water moisture) in the soil available to plants. By removing the competition, we are essentially allowing the plants we want access to more of the requirements needed for optimum growth. More available nutrients in the plant mean more nutrients transferred to your deer during normal grazing behavior.

Glyphosate shows benefits in both food plot preparation and maintenance. Most areas are crowded with undesirable plant species before being planted. You have options, mow it down, till it under, or even both. But typically this only removes the visible vegetation and does not kill the plant. Often, several weeks after planting weeds and grasses will erupt in the plot, sucking valuable nutrients from the crop you are growing. Spraying glyphosate prior to planting, will kill all existing plants and dramatically reduce the number of weeds and grasses that come up after planting.

With the advent of GMO species like “Roundup® Ready” or glyphosate-resistant soybeans, corn, alfalfa, and wheat, glyphosate can be sprayed on actively growing plots to remove any competition and not significantly affect the planted crop. It is worth noting that anytime a crop is sprayed with glyphosate, even at the correct rate, the herbicide will tie up nutrients in the soil, essentially “handcuffing” the plant from taking up critical resources. Though it is a negative, the benefits of releasing it from competing vegetation are typically greater. There are also new products for food plotters and farmers on the market to counter glyphosate’s “handcuff” effect.

HARMFUL EFFECTS ON WILDLIFE

Even though we know that using glyphosate appropriately can effectively reduce competition, and result in increased nutrients to the crops we are promoting, we are still applying a chemical. In school, we are often taught that chemicals are “bad.” In fact, when we hear chemicals often the old skull and crossbones seem to be the first image to appear in our heads. So with that being said, can using glyphosate on food plots hurt the deer we are intending to help?

In 2010, nearly 70% of all corn and 93% of all soybeans were herbicide-resistant. With that many acres being planted, and whitetails occupying a lot of it, any negative effects would likely have made national news. Studies reported by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) revealed glyphosate “…is practically non-toxic to upland game species.” Other studies have focused on the effects on upland game birds like bobwhite quail, and waterfowl, like mallard ducks. With a large amount of glyphosate needed to be directly ingested, it is a “slight” toxic risk at most to even these small animals. So the odds of any type of negative anatomical effect on an animal the size of a white-tailed deer is highly unlikely. This is also demonstrated in Table 1, which shows active ingredients in herbicides, as well as commonly known items and their “LD50” values. An LD50 value represents the dose of a specific chemical needed to kill half of the tested population (usually mice or rats). At over 5,000 mg/kg for oral ingestion, glyphosate is nearly 25 times less toxic than the bleach in your laundry room! Yes, chemicals can be dangerous; and should always be treated carefully, with proper safety gear, and according to the label recommendations. But many things already in your home are much worse!

Sethoxydim and Clethodim (AKA Poast®, Select®, Arrest®)

In the majority of food plots, the most competing vegetation is grasses. From Fescue to Bermuda to Foxtail, grasses can choke out what seemed to be a healthy food plot in no time. Because of the thick, extensive root system of grasses, they are easily able to outcompete many food plot species for valuable nutrients, micronutrients, and water. Fortunately, we do have options to free our food plots from grasses’ “death grip” and thrive to provide for whitetails. Sethoxydim and clethodim are herbicides that control annual and perennial grasses in broad-leafed food plots like clover, chicory, alfalfa, brassica, and even soybeans. But they aren’t for all food plots, and deer hunters can run into some issues when treating “mixes.”

USAGE

The most commonly used sethoxydim goes under the trade name Poast®, and the most common clethodim is a trade named Select®. Both can control annual and perennial grasses. Typically, it is a personal preference of which to use, though some may say one herbicide is better on a specific grass than another. For example, some fescues are more effectively controlled with clethodim than sethoxydim. Regardless of which you choose, it is important to pair them with crop oil or surfactant. This will help the herbicide penetrate the leaf tissue more effectively and allow the herbicide to move through the plant. Typically, results begin to show around 10-14 days of application. Application rates vary based on the grasses targeted and the stage of growth but range from 8-32 ounces. The chemicals can be applied with a hand pump, backpack, ATV/UTV, or tractor-mounted sprayers.

As previously mentioned, these herbicides can provide plenty of “relief” for clover, brassica, and many other types of broadleaf food plot species. However, though we may not think of them as “grasses,” sethoxydim and clethodim will kill wheat, oats, rye grain, and even corn. Where this particularly causes a problem for food plotters is when planting “mixes.” A “mix” is planted to provide forages that peak in attractiveness and/or nutrition throughout the year. For instance, you might plant a mix of oats and brassicas, where the oats will be attractive early in the hunting season and the brassicas attractive during the late season. If the grass becomes an issue in this plot, spraying sethoxydim or clethodim will not only remove the grasses but your oats as well! Be very careful when deciding whether or not to spray a food plot that contains a mix of species.

BENEFITS

Food plots released from grass competition will be able to uptake more nutrients, micronutrients, and water, often resulting in better growth and more nutrients which will be passed on to grazing deer. Sethoxydim and clethodim really “earn their keep” when it comes to maintaining perennial food plots. These year-round, nutritionally-packed food plots are susceptible to grasses during the new growth cycle every spring and summer, especially as they age. Spraying the grass-selective herbicides during the late spring or early summer can release the perennial plots from competing grasses and allow them to obtain the critical nutrients needed to provide your deer herd with a source of highly-digestible protein during late pregnancy, early fawn development, and antler growth.

HARMFUL EFFECTS ON WILDLIFE

Unlike glyphosate, there has not been as much testing of the grass-selective herbicides sethoxydim and clethodim on wildlife. As much as it seems non-related, the best testing we can point to is that of the domesticated sheep, which like white-tailed deer are ruminants (having a four-chambered stomach). Research published by the EPA noted that clethodim residue was “adequately delineated” in testing on sheep. In other words, the clethodim residue was displaced into the proper regions of the body through filtering or excreted with no signs of negative effects. In fact, when testing was conducted on dogs, 91% of the ingested clethodim residue was found in the urine and feces. What does this mean? Basically, less than 10% of the chemical actually ended up in the body, and such a low dose resulted in no adverse effects on the animal. Keep in mind that these tests were done by giving animals a “straight dose” of the chemical through a gel pill, rather than wildlife naturally browsing through a treated field which is likely resulting in much less herbicide being ingested.

2, 4-D and 2, 4-DB (AKA P.B.I.®, Hi-Yield®, Butyrac®)

Though typically not as competitive as grasses, broadleaf weeds can be a problem in food plots, especially when disturb-favored weeds erupt not long after tilling the soil. The herbicides, 2, 4-D and 2, 4-DB, control broadleaf plants in food plots. But unlike sethoxydim and clethodim, these two chemicals are dramatically different in the manner they can be used.

USAGE

The two herbicides both can effectively control broadleaf weeds, however, the effect on the food plot species planted is drastically different. If you apply 2, 4-D on a clover or alfalfa plot, not only will you eliminate broadleaf weeds but also your entire food plot! This herbicide is more suited for removing broadleaf weeds out of grass-like plots including oats, wheat, and corn. So what do you do for clover and alfalfa plots?

That’s why the “B” in 2, 4-DB is so critical. Representing butyric acid, 2, 4-DB allows the control of broadleaf in clover and other legumes. This is extremely valuable in mixes as mentioned earlier. If a food plot contains oats, wheat, and clover, a plotter could spray with 2, 4-DB to control unwanted broadleaf weeds without negatively affecting the food plot species.

The two herbicides can be applied via any of the spray equipment previously mentioned. Rates vary, but often 16-32 ounces of herbicide per acre is required.

BENEFIT

Like grasses, broadleaf weeds can suck valuable resources from our food plots. By removing the competition, we are able to “free up” more components for our food plots to thrive, which are likely to end up in the deer we are trying to grow healthier and larger.

Broadleaf weeds are also capable of shading out food plots, which can stunt growth, or worse, kill food plot species. An alternative to spraying 2, 4-D or 2, 4-DB is the use of mechanical removal, typically through mowing. Because the broadleaf weeds are normally annuals, cutting them can allow the food plot species to “jump ahead” and never look back. It’s worth noting that the plant can still recover from mowing and come back during the same growing season, whereas, the chemical treatment will likely kill it off.

HARMFUL EFFECTS ON WILDLIFE

Research on the different forms of 2, 4-D has only shown effects on fish and some aquatic amphibians. Its effect on mammals appears to be nearly non-existent. However, because of its elevated LD50 value (see Table 1), it should be handled with utmost care. The only real issue documented has been severe eye irritation when in direct contact with the herbicides.

Herbicide use on food plots is likely only to increase. It’s important to understand what the chemical you are applying is, what it does, and if it can affect both animals and humans. The herbicides discussed are the most commonly used on food plots for deer. When used correctly, they can be a huge asset to any deer hunter looking to generate a plot better than their neighbor’s.

The Remington Tac-14 is a pump-action…. weapon.. that shoots 12 gauge shotgun shells. Jokes aside the Remington Tac-14 is a shorty shotgun that skirts the legal definition of a Short Barrel Shotgun and puts it right into your hands.

History of the Remington Tac-14

The Remington Tac-14 is originally released in late 2017 and while it hasn’t seen many productions in a few years, namely because of Remington’s bankruptcy and sale, it was a fan favorite upon release and continues to be in demand today.

The Remington Tac-14 really made a splash because it had all of the features of a Short Barrel Shotgun without all of the tax stamps and paperwork.

We will dive into what makes the Tac-14 legal in the next section but we hope that since Remington, now RemArms, is in new hands production of the Tac-14 and Tac-13 will soon pick back up!

Legalities of the Tac-14

So how is the Remington Tac-14 not considered a short barrel shotgun with a 14″ barrel, you ask?

Well, it’s actually pretty simple.

Since the gun was never built with a stock it is not considered a shotgun, thus it cannot be a short barrel shotgun (SBS).

Shotguns by legal definition are designed to be fired from the shoulder and without a stock, this gun cannot be fired from the shoulder and thus barrel lengths do not apply.

Since pistols don’t have a barrel length required under federal law and can not be fired from the shoulder this gun is more of a pistol than a legally defined shotgun.

However, the overall length of a shotgun needs to remain longer than 26″ overall or it would fall into the any other weapon or “AOW” category of weapons.

Like SBR’s and SBS’s, AOW’s fall into the purview of the National Firearms Act, better known as the NFA. You can read way more about the NFA, SBR’s, and tax stamps in our Ulitmate Guide to Short Barrel Rifles.

State Laws

State laws are often wildly different than Federal Law and unfortunately for people living in the Peoples’ Republic of California and New Jersey, you are often left out of the freedom fun.

While we may come back in and dive into states that can’t possess right now we just recommend checking with local authorities on the legality of owning a Remington Tac-14 in your state.

Features

Features are what makes guns what they are and the features are likely why you buy gun x over gun y so what are some of the features of the Tac-14?

Time to dive in!

Grip and Ergonomics

The grip of this gun is special for a few reasons.

It takes you back to that infamous scene in the movie Training Day where “the bitch”, which was a Mossberg 500 Crusier, was racked and used to kill poor drug dealing Roger.

But shorty shotguns are nothing new and they are incredibly useful. The grip is the bird’s head style grip. The Tac-14 comes in a few different models. Namely, there is wood furniture and synthetic furniture.

The birdhead grip really makes this gun a comfortable gun to hold in your dominant hand.

However, this isn’t a super-light gun and with all your ammo toward the front of the gun in the magazine tube, you probably won’t be holding this gun one-handed very long.

We will talk about one-handed shooting later in this review.

Pump Action

The action on the Tac-14 is one of the main functions of the gun. It’s how you load the gun with freedom seeds and the main operation of the gun.

The action is actually extremely smooth and overall it’s a positive experience.

Trigger

The trigger on the Remington Tac-14 is surprisingly good. I’ve never found shotgun triggers to be amazing but for what it is it’s great!

The trigger doesn’t function much like a double-stage trigger. You don’t have much take up at all and the trigger basically starts at the wall.

With that being said it makes for an easy break and easy shooting.

Safety

The safety sits behind the trigger at the top of the trigger well. It’s in an okay spot but honestly, it’s not great for this style of gun and how you hold it.

There is no great place for a safety on a gun this small with this type of profile so while I don’t like the placement it does work.

There’s nothing really to report back on the functionality of the safety as it’s just a Remington 870 safety. It’s stiff but does the job.

Sling/Carry

Depending on how you use this gun you may want a sling to easily carry the gun around.

The gun is extremely compact and can be difficult to carry at times. A sling can be attached to the Tac-14.

The birdshead grip has a sling attachment and you can purchase a front sling mount which I will talk more about in the accessories section.

The synthetic model would allow you to attach an MLok sling attachment to the pump-action foregrip but would not allow for the front sling attachment method because the Magpul foregrip is in the way.

Accessories for the Tac-14

The nice thing about the Tac-14 is the fact that it’s built from the Remington 870 and opens it up to a ton of accessories and custom parts.

Grips

If you aren’t a fan of the birdshead grip you’re in luck. A number of companies offer new grips for this gun.

One grip that comes to mind is the Shockwave Raptor Grip (not to be confused with the Mossberg Shockwave). These can be easily switched out on your Tac-14 and provide an entirely new ergonomic to the grip of the gun.

One way to change out your grip is to add a pistol stabilizing brace. SB Tactical makes a Tac-14 pistol stabilizing brace that adds a pistol grip as well as their iconic stabilizing braces.

You can find them at a number of retailers across the web.

Forends

The most popular part of the gun is definitely the forend. You can easily swap them out and there is a number of aftermarket options for forends.

If you get the forend with the Magpul forend, one of the most popular accessories is the strap. These are available on Amazon and are a cheap nice upgrade to the gun that allows you to secure your grip on the pump-action.

Light Mounts

With the Tac-14 being such an optimal home defense shotgun it makes sense that you would want to be able to see if something goes bump in the night.

There are a number of options for light mounts, even stream makes a forend that has a Streamlight flashlight built right in.

If you are a Surefire fan you’re in luck because they make a forend light for the Tac-14/870 as well!

Sling Attachments

For the Tac-14 you have a few options for sling attachments. You definitely need two points of contact or at least one point on the grip of the gun if you wanted to single point.

The Remington sling mount is attached to the front of the gun via the magazine tube and allows you to thread a 1-¼” sling into the gun.

Ammo Holders

The ammo holders for the Tac-14 come in two different forms.

The first and arguability most popular option is shot cards. Shot cards are typically made of nylon and elastic and hold between 2 and 5 additional shotgun shells.

Then you have plastic mounted holders as well that attach in nearly the same spot as the shot cards.

There are also aluminum shell carriers which are the highest end of the shell carriers.

Shooting the Tac-14

Shooting the Tac-14 is… an adventure to say the least. Time to just be frank.

There is almost nothing to mitigate recoil with this gun. This is straight 12 gauge recoil in full glory.

It’s a wildly fun gun to shoot but in the pistol brace configuration, I definitely don’t want to shoot it all day.

You likely won’t be shooting this gun full extended and will likely be hip firing it more than anything.

Hip firing the gun is relatively comfortable but not accurate at any kind of distance.

High brass 12 gauge buckshot definitely has more recoil than anything I shot that was low brass.

Overall, shooting it was shooting a short Remington 870. I liked it a lot but wouldn’t want to shoot it all day.

Conclusion of the Remington Tac-14 Review

The Tac-14 has its purpose there is no double about it. Is it a range toy or a workhorse?

Well, it depends.

I see the Tac-14 is a multi-purpose gun but ironically I think it’s more of a home defense or truck gun than it is a range toy.

When I first saw this gun, I loved the idea of it. I like the compactness and thought; man, that will be a fun gun to shoot on the range.

However, when I finally got my hands on it and was able to shoot it I quickly realized it wasn’t a gun I wanted to shoot all day long at the range.

But after shooting it, it dawned on me, that this is the perfect backpack/truck/home defense shotgun. It’s compact and easy to store and easy to deploy in close quarters.

If you are looking for something to put hundreds of rounds downrange this may not be your gun. But it may be, depending on how much you like recoil.

Overall, this is a solid gun. It has its place and it functions very well.

FAQ’s

How long do squirrels live? What is the average lifespan of a squirrel? Do different types of squirrels have different life expectancies? In this blog post, we will answer all of these questions and more. So, if you’re curious about how long squirrels typically live, keep reading!

The Lifespan of a Squirrel – Wild vs. Captivity:

The average lifespan of a squirrel is around two to five years. However, some have been known to live for up to twelve years. When it comes to captivity, their lifespans are often extended. In fact, some squirrels have been known to live for up to twenty years in captivity! 

Life Expectancy of Squirrels Across Species

Red squirrels: Red squirrels can live up to 5 years in the wild. Their mortality rate is quite high and only 25 percent of these squirrels live longer than a year. They mature at 2 to 4 years old. The longest recorded lifespan of a red squirrel in the wild has been 10 years. The male squirrels tend to live longer than female ones. For most squirrel species, it is the opposite.

Eastern fox squirrels: have an average lifespan of 8 to 18 years in the wild. Most squirrels die before maturity. Female squirrels have been known to live up to 13 years of age, on average, whereas male squirrels are known to live for 8 years, on average.

Southern flying squirrels: Southern flying squirrels live up to three to five years in the wild. Compared to their non-flying relatives, southern flying squirrels have a shorter lifespan in the wild. They tend to live longer in captivity and have an average lifespan of 10 years.

Eastern grey squirrels live up to 12 years in the wild. Their lifespan increases in captivity and their maximum age has been recorded to be 20 years.

Ground squirrels like the Richardson ground squirrel have short life spans of 2-4 years in the wild. Most males only live two years while the females sometimes live for four years in the wild. Similar lifespans have been reported for California ground squirrels.

(Do squirrels carry rabies? See this post for more)

How Do Squirrels Live So Long?

Now that we know how long squirrels live, let’s take a look at what contributes to their longevity. Below are some of the main factors:

Diet: One of the main contributing factors to a squirrel’s longevity is their diet. Squirrels are mostly herbivores and their diet consists mainly of nuts, fruits, and seeds. This diet is rich in antioxidants which help to protect against disease and aging. In addition, nuts and seeds are a good source of protein and essential nutrients which help to keep squirrels healthy and strong.

Exercise: Another factor that contributes to a squirrel’s longevity is exercise. These creatures are very active and they spend most of their time running, jumping, and climbing. This helps to keep their heart and muscles healthy, as well as their bones.

Low-stress levels: Squirrels also tend to have low-stress levels. This is likely due to their simple lifestyle and their natural habitats. They are not exposed to the same type of stressors that humans are, such as working long hours, commuting, and dealing with family and relationship drama. As a result, they experience less wear and tear on their bodies and age at a slower rate.

(Do Squirrels Eat Meat? See this post for more)

Factors that Impact a Squirrel’s Life Span

While diet, exercise, and low-stress levels are all contributing factors to a squirrel’s longevity, there are also some factors that can shorten their life span. Below are some of the main ones:

Predators: One of the biggest dangers to squirrels is predators. These creatures are often targeted by birds of prey, such as hawks and eagles, as well as snakes and other mammals. As a result, many squirrels do not live to see their second year.

Disease: Another factor that can impact a squirrel’s lifespan is disease. Unfortunately, these creatures are susceptible to a number of different diseases, such as rabies, distemper, and mange. If they contract one of these diseases, it is often fatal.

The Average Squirrel Life Cycle:

• Newborns: Most squirrel species give birth to litters of 2-5 young. The newborns are blind and hairless. They weigh about 1/2 ounce (15 grams) at birth and are about 3 inches (8 cm) long.
• Weaning: At around 6-8 weeks of age, the young squirrels start to wean from their mother’s milk. During this time, they begin to eat solid food and learn how to forage for themselves.
• Adolescence: At around 3-4 months of age, the young squirrels reach adolescence. They become sexually mature and begin to disperse from their natal territory.
• Adulthood: Once they reach adulthood, squirrels live an average of 2-5 years in the wild. However, some species have been known to live much longer.

FAQs

How Does Their Lifespan Compare to Rats?

Rats have an average lifespan of 2-3 years in the wild. This is shorter than most squirrel species, which have an average lifespan of 4-5 years. However, there are some exceptions, such as the eastern grey squirrel which can live up to 12 years in the wild.

Do They Live Longer in Captivity?

Yes, squirrels tend to live longer in captivity than they do in the wild. This is due to the fact that they are not exposed to predators and diseases and they have a more consistent diet. In addition, they usually have access to exercise equipment and toys which help to keep them active and healthy. The oldest recorded age for a captive squirrel is 20 years.

Best way to get rid of a squirrel in your house:

If you have a squirrel in your house, one of the best ways to get rid of it is to call a professional wildlife control company. These companies are equipped with the tools and knowledge necessary to safely and humanely remove the squirrel from your home. Once the squirrel has been removed, they will seal up any entry points to prevent the animal from returning. Or you can get an air gun and take care of it by yourself.

(For more on the best air rifles for pest control, see this post)

Last month, Sasquatch The Legend explored the topic of Where Sasquatch Sleeps. This month, it’s what exactly this mysterious creature sustains itself on that is the focus.

Dinner plate, homemade pie (author photos)

Roots? Berries? Fish? Elk? Even…humans? Every living thing must eat in order to sustain itself, but what exactly does the being we call Bigfoot or Sasquatch consume? Sasquatch The Legend turned to a few of our favorite Bigfoot/Sasquatch reference books for answers.

Kathy Moscowitz Strain’s Giants, Cannibals & Monsters: Bigfoot in Native Culture (2008) is an excellent source of historic tales originally sourced from the oral traditions of native peoples of the the Americas.

Within Strain’s book, some of the oldest references to the giant beings we now know as Bigfoot or Sasquatch depict them as cannibalistic monsters capable of carrying away innocent men, women and children to consume at their leisure.

“There was a great Giant who lived in the north. His name was Oo-wel’lin, and he was as big as a pine tree. When he saw the country full of people he said they looked good to eat, and came and carried them off and ate them. He could catch ten men at a time and hold them between his fingers, and put more in a net on his back, and carry them off,” begins one story from the Miwok Indian people of California, quoted by Strain (p. 29).

Stories of cannibal Bigfoot-like beings are not limited to California, but are echoed in the oral histories of native peoples throughout the Western United States and Canada (see Tom Sewid’s artwork below, depicting the Dzoonakwa stealing children.)

Bigfoot-like creature capturing children (artwork and photo: Tom Sewid)

In another story, “Che-ha-lum-che comes out only at night and wanders around seeking Mewuk (people) to eat. He prefers women; of these he catches and carries off all he can find. Sometimes he makes a crying noise, hoo-oo’-oo, like a baby, to lure them. If they come he seizes them and tosses them into his big pack basket and carries them to his cave, where he eats them. In the basket is a long spike which pierces their bodies when they are thrown in, so they can not escape. In his caves are the remains of his victims—horns of deer and bones of people and different kinds of animals” (Strain, p. 35).

(Thankfully, these accounts are from the distant past, and Sasquatch The Legend is not aware of documented, modern accounts that suggest Bigfoot/Sasquatch is still eating human beings, at least not at the present time. However, as author David Paulides notes in his many books, there are countless human beings who have disappeared in the forests across North America under mysterious circumstances, so caution is always advised when in areas where Sasquatch have been seen.)

Early Bigfoot researcher and author, Ivan T. Sanderson, in Abominable Snowmen: Legend Come to Life (1960) includes many eyewitness stories about Sasquatch, some which include the beings eating. One story about a berry-eating Sasquatch near Chiliwack, British Columbia, Canada stands out:

Wild huckleberries, Alaska (author photo)

“Green Hicks suddenly stopped us and drew our attention to a large, light brown creature standing about 8 feet high, standing on its hind legs (standing upright) pulling at the berry bushes with one hand or paw toward him and putting berries in his mouth with the other hand, or paw. I stood still wondering, and McRae and Green Hicks were arguing. Hicks said, ‘It is a wild man’ and McRae said, ‘It is a bear.’ As far as I am concerned the strange creature looked more like a human being” (Sanderson, p. 77).

John Napier’s Bigfoot: The Yeti & Sasquatch in Myth and Reality (1972) recounts the tale of the kidnapping of Albert Ostman by a Sasquatch family. Ostman speaks of “grasses with sweet roots, spruce and hemlock tips and tubers” which the mother and son Sasquatch collect and bring back to the cave to eat (Napier, p. 74). Napier notes that “Grass and spruce tips, however rich they might be in protein, hardly seem an adequate diet” for a large Sasquatch being.

Meadow grasses and trees, Breckenridge, Colorado (author photo)

Napier also mentions the Chapman story, a tale from Canada in which a family living on a remote homestead was visited one day by an “8 foot high male creature which emerged from the woods,” left “gigantic footsteps”, and seemingly turned over (and presumably ate) a heavy barrel of salted fish (Napier, p. 76).

Bigfoot researcher John Green, in his book, Sasquatch The Apes Among Us (1978) very helpfully sorts and categorizes observed Sasquatch behaviors such as eating. Green notes that Sasquatch have been seen by humans while eating all of the following items: “roots, leaves, berries, grass stems, water weeds, small rodents, fish, raw bacon & eggs, garbage” and also have been seen carrying away, presumably to eat, such items as “deer, sheep, cattle, corn, chickens and rabbits” (Green, p. 447).

Homegrown corn (author photo)

A story from a 10-year-old boy in West Linn, Oregon, in Green’s book, tells of “a big hairy animal standing upright in the Detroit Reservoir, in Oregon.” Witnesses watched it “reach down and catch a fish, which it ate after biting off the head. When it noticed them it ran off and left 16-inch footprints in the mud” (Green, p. 434).

In J. Robert Alley’s Raincoast Sasquatch (2003), a book that is a treasure trove of eyewitness Sasquatch encounters, the author describes multiple accounts of Sasquatch beings being seen searching for food such as picking berries, digging for beach sand and piling up rocks, presumably in a search for crabs and clams, and carrying deer.

Sandy beach near Forks, Washington (author photo)

In one account from the 1960s in Alaska, a boater told of seeing “what looked like a manlike, dark, hairy creature, digging in the sand like he was digging for clams using a stick….digging with its right hand. The stick it had been digging with would have been about the size of a small baseball bat or halibut club. While digging, it would pick something up with its left hand and, it seemed like, would put something to its mouth” (Alley, pp. 84-85).

In another exciting encounter from Alley, a teenage boy describes walking with his friends on a road near Ketchikan, Alaska when “Suddenly we saw a deer come crashing out of the woods on the bluff above us, and right behind it came a big black thing. Both the deer and the creature passed within thirty feet of the nearest boy and it appeared to me to be about ten feet tall. The deer crossed the road at top speed but the thing saw us, seemed to stop for a second, and then took off right after the deer again. It was real big and ran on two legs, covered all over with black hair” (Alley, p. 91).

Deer, Olympic National Park, Washington (author photo)

Brushes with Bigfoot: Sasquatch Behaviors Reported in Close Encounters, Native and Non-native Perspectives (2021) a more recent book also by J. Robert Alley, contains a couple stories about eyewitnesses seeing Sasquatch in a search for food. One witness watched a Sasquatch on the Unuk River in Alaska “lifting rocks up with his hand and he scraped the crabs out with the other hand” (p. 105).

Another witness, one of a very few to actually see a Sasquatch eating, said that while he and a friend were out night fishing, he watched the big figure of a Sasquatch on the riverbank near them, consuming fish guts. “It moved on two legs but would bend over, backside to us, to scoop up the fish guts that we left. It was just shoveling them in at an enormous rate, ‘Mmow,’ like that…you could hear him sucking up the stuff, ‘Mowww,’ without even chewing—just huge slurping sounds when he’d lift it all up to his mouth. I couldn’t believe how much of the stuff he was just puttin’ away!” (pp. 126-127).

Jeff Meldrum, a professor of anatomy and anthropology at Idaho State University, in his work, Sasquatch: Legend Meets Science, (2006) notes that, “the menu of food items reported by eyewitnesses ranges from berries to elk” (p. 168) and that “the Sasquatch diet seems to span the wide spectrum of a generalized omnivore” (Meldrum, p. 188).

Elk on a hill, California (photo: Rachel Hebert)

Linda Coil Suchy’s Who’s Watching You? An exploration of the Bigfoot Phenomenon in the Pacific Northwest (2009) includes an interesting story about Suchy’s own grandmother, who lived in the Bellingham, Washington area in the 1960s and ‘70s and kept a huge vegetable and fruit garden.

Vegetable garden (author photo)

The grandmother saw that vegetables and fruits were being taken from her garden in amounts that seemed excessive for the usual visitors of deer and rabbits, and she saw extraordinarily large footprints in her garden, so one week she sat up late over several nights, waiting to see who exactly was visiting. She saw “a dark brown hairy beast, at least eight feet tall” and watched as it ate her “raspberries, tomatoes, squash and green beans” (Suchy, pp. 17-18).

Homegrown tomatoes and green beans (author photo)

Concluding that it was “just an unfortunate creature who’s hungry, that’s all” the grandmother decided to leave food for the visitor on her picnic table. She even began baking entire squash or pumpkin cakes for her visitor, leaving them on the table for him. In return, he would leave her tokens of appreciation, such as “an apple, a pine cone, a flower or a pretty rock.” (Suchy, pp. 18-20). Apparently this giving and taking relationship continued for several years. (Suchy even includes her grandmother’s recipe for Squash or Pumpkin Cake in her book, a particularly nice touch.)

In Nick Redfern’s The Bigfoot Book: The Encyclopedia of Sasquatch, Yeti and Cryptic Primates (2016), a letter from a woman in Florida complains that a Bigfoot-like being has been “taking apples that my daughter brought down from up north, off my back porch” (Redfern, p. 192). Redfern also relates a funny story from a female Chehalis tribal member in British Columbia, Canada, who said that “when her husband was returning from the hunt with a score or more of ducks he had shot, a Sasquatch stepped out of the bush and took the ducks from him—except one, which the giant stuffed into the shirt of the frightened Indian” (Redfern, pp. 67-68).

Honeycrisp apples (author photo)

Steve Isdahl’s recent book, The Day Sasquatch Became Real For Me (2020) while not always easy to read because its contents include hundreds of viewer letters transcribed just as written by the individual authors, is still a fantastic resource to draw upon due to the wealth of information that can be gleaned from its eyewitness accounts.

In Isdah’s book are several descriptions of Sasquatch beings being observed eating or seen taking animals away, presumably to eat them later. In one story, a hunter hears a pig “let out this blood-curdling scream” and then hears something stepping very close to him, so he raises his flashlight to see what it is. He sees something taking the pig, something ”8-foot-tall, light brown/gray…looked like a less hairy, pissed-off Chewbacca” (Isdahl, p. 50). A different hog-hunter, in Texas, describes seeing a Sasquatch capture a wild hog and “tear the head from its body” (Isdahl, p. 168).

Wild hogs with alligator, Florida (photo: Tom Corser, www.tomcorser.com)

In another story sent to Isdahl, this one from Florida, a boater spots a “6 foot creature, muscular, with reddish hair” standing up, holding a small alligator in its right hand and eating it (Isdahl, p. 190). In a tale from a trout fisherman, an 18-year-old young man describes having pebbles tossed at him while he was fishing, seeing something a “big creature…with reddish-brown hair” standing up and looking at him, and feeling that it “wasn’t really showing aggression but just letting me know, hey, you’re in my spot” (Isdahl, p. 234).

Trout fishing stream, Montana (author photo)

In still another story, a fisherman has huge, “cinder-block sized” rocks chucked at him from a massive being hidden in the trees. The next day, he returns to the site and finds “just-eaten” white tail deer (Isdahl, pp. 281-282). And in yet another story a group of elk hunters in Montana come across a “big bull elk, dead in the creek” with “its neck broken” but “still warm” and immediately after, encounter a huge Sasquatch, “standing, watching” (Isdahl, pp. 207-208).

As this array of accounts from various places and times suggests, Sasquatch seems to be an omnivore capable of and interested in eating many different types of foods, ranging from meats to fish and shellfish to plant matter such as roots, vegetables and fruits. (Surely we should also include homemade squash cakes in this list.)

This article could continue for many additional pages, detailing more foods that Sasquatch is said to have eaten, including everything from acorn meal to packaged luncheon meat to entire sticks of butter. It seems that the Sasquatch can and does eat many different foods, depending on what is available to it in its environment.

Perhaps in terms of its diet and those foods that appeal to it, Sasquatch is much more like us than we might have realized.

by Christina Hebert

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