Chuck Norris doesn’t sleep. He waits. But for the regular Joe, being awakened from a deep sleep by a bump in the night can be a brown-pants-inducing experience. At least if you’re in your home, you’re familiar with your surroundings and should be able to navigate through it in complete darkness. You know the floor plan. You know all the avenues of approach. And, with a little prior planning and practice, you have an advantageous position where you can defend yourself and your loved ones from any attempted assault.

It’s one thing to be safe and secure in our homes. It’s quite another to maintain that same level of protection when we’re sleeping under the stars, far from civilization. Whether we’re enjoying all that Mother Nature has to offer on a relaxing camping trip or searching for sanctuary in the midst of a crisis evacuation, dusk brings on a whole new set of challenges when there are no walls and roof around you. How do we guard against those ominous sounds of creatures roaming the wilderness, looking for easy prey? How can we know the difference between man and animal?

Several factors should be considered when selecting an appropriate location to set up an overnight campsite, but that’s the topic for another article. For our purposes, we will assume we’ve selected a good location to make camp and have now progressed to the point of trying to establish some level of security.

One of the most challenging aspects of setting up perimeter defenses is restricting access to your base camp. The feeling of freedom and open air that campers love also works against us when it comes to protecting our campsite from unwanted wanderers or outright intruders. While selecting a good location for the campsite is a critical first step, it’s only one step in the larger defense-in-depth strategy.

The next step is to create an early warning system for when someone or something approaches our location. For those who don’t have a lot of wilderness time under their belt, you’ll be shocked to find how noisy it is at night, as all manner of creatures venture out under the cover of darkness for their evening meal. Depending on the location and time of year, the noise can really be quite loud. Anything moving around at night can potentially have plenty of background noise to mask its movement. Additionally, if one is bedded down in a wooded area, one will notice that noise tends to ricochet off the trees, making it difficult to localize and pinpoint the source. Do not fall into the false mindset that any intruder wandering into the campsite will make enough noise to wake you and give you time to determine their intentions. Creating an early warning system will ensure you have some measure of advanced notice to an intruder, be they two- or four-legged.

Early warning systems can be quite simple or very complex, but since most outdoorsmen take a minimalistic approach to travelling in nature, a simple security solution seems the best choice. Let’s look at three simple options for securing your campsite location.

The Old Tin-Can Trick

If you’re a fan of AMC’s The Walking Dead TV show, then you’ve seen this zombie security system quite often. It doesn’t get any simpler than a length of string, a few empty soup cans, and some small rocks.

Cut an entrance and an exit hole in the can just small enough to lace through the string. Partially cut the lid just wide enough to add a few rocks inside the can, then press the lid shut. Lace the string through several cans, leaving enough string on either end to tie off the ends to make a string barrier. Make the barrier long enough to cover the width of the access path you want to secure. Tie off the ends of the barrier with enough tension to pull the system relatively tight and level across the ground.

A height of two to three feet off the ground is a good all-around height to protect against moderately sized animals and low enough that under the cover of darkness a person wandering around may not notice the alarm and set it off.

Tip: If this type of setup appeals to you, consider getting a bag of marbles to use in the cans. They roll around much easier and seem to make a more audible alarm when banging around inside the cans. Additionally, a good length of strong fishing line will work better as a string than 550 paracord, and it weighs next to nothing.

The Modified Window/Door Alarm

While the marble-in-a-can method might work for you minimalists, the MacGyver fans are going to want something a little more “techie” for their campsite. Fortunately, your favorite local hardware store or online shop should have just the thing: small window/door security alarms. Modifying their use for campsite security is only limited by your imagination.

One simple option is to purchase a doorstop alarm. These alarms function by placing them directly behind a door. They are shaped similar to a doorstop with a ramped area that allows the door to slide over the ramp, effectively pressing the ramp down into the unit. When the ramp is depressed enough, a loud audible alarm is triggered.

A simple method for employing their use is to create a tripwire across an access path. Tie off one end of the fishing line to a tree or other secure object. String the wire across the path and tie the other end of the string off to a short length of stick. Find any object with some mass such as a small log or rock. Prop the object up with the stick, ensuring the line is taut across the path. Place the doorstop alarm under the object positioned in such a way that when the trip line is pulled, the stick is pulled out from under the object, allowing the object to fall on the doorstop, setting off the audible alarm.

Tip: Having four or five units in your pack gives you another simple but effective way to secure multiple access paths to your campsite. Piercing alarms going off simultaneously will be loud enough to scare away all but the most determined predators.

The CAPSS3 Option

For those who take their campsite security a little more seriously, look no further than Brite-Strike Technologies, which offers a host of handheld and weapon-mounted lights for combative applications. Brite-Strike has also introduced several products for the perimeter alarm market.

The All Purpose Adhesive Light Strips (APALS) are basically solar-powered light sticks that provide about 40 lumens of green or red light for more than 12 hours on a single charge. Smaller than your standard smartphone, these units are lightweight alternatives to chemical light sticks and last twice as long. To provide the same amount of illumination as the APALS for one year, a user would need to purchase 730 chem light sticks at an average cost of $1,200. One APALS retails for about $20. This is quite a no-brainer for those looking for some late-night campsite illumination options that don’t include packing around 15 or 20 chem lights or battery-powered lanterns.

Another innovative Brite-Strike product is the Camp Alert Perimeter Security System and Survival Signaling System (CAPSS3). The CAPSS3 is a lightweight and compact multifunction unit that offers both security and signaling capabilities for the outdoor enthusiast. The CAPSS3 unit comprises of a 135-decibel audible alarm unit that is triggered by a built-in metallic trip rod. Pulling the rod out of the recess in the unit triggers the alarm.

A small LED red dot is built into the side of the unit that acts as both a visual alarm and provides enough red light at night to read maps or other documents. A larger blue LED light is built into the unit along the length of the CAPSS3. It has the dual function of acting as a visual alarm and offering enough blue light to signal rescuers or to help mark one’s location for airborne search-and-rescue operations. A slide button is located on the face of the unit to allow the lights to be used for reading or signaling. Plus there’s a strobe function that can go off in conjunction with the audible alarm.

A small key ring is attached to the triggering rod to provide several tripwire attachment options, and each CAPSS3 unit includes two 10-meter-long clear monofilament lines for use as a nearly invisible tripwire. Additionally, the unit comes with a small section of heavy-duty 3M double-sided adhesive tape for attaching the CAPSS3 unit to any surface, such as a tree or a rock. A few small nylon zip ties can also be used to stick the unit onto odd-shaped surfaces. The CAPSS3 survival signaling system has an MSRP of $40 — but wait, there’s more! Each CAPSS3 system also includes two blue APALS at no extra cost.

Tip: The unit is slightly smaller than a deck of cards and weighs only a few ounces, so pack several units in your day pack or bug-out bag. They certainly won’t hurt your back after a long day of hiking yet provide multiple points of security.

Layered Defense

As you can see, each type of early warning system has pros and cons, but there are certainly more benefits than negatives. Plus, they’re all relatively affordable and easy to set up. If you’re a minimalistic prepper who needs to stay light and mobile, picking any one of these options can give you peace of mind if you’re forced away from your neighborhood and into unknown territory. For those who like to spend a lot of time with Mother Nature but take their personal security seriously (or perhaps their zombie defenses a little too seriously), you can always opt to layer your defenses by using a combination of these systems.

Because not all of us have Chuck Norris-like instincts, having some sort of reliable perimeter security system is the secret to getting a good night’s rest when sleeping under the stars. With the knowledge that you’ll be alerted if a predator — man or beast — enters your campsite, you’ll be ready for anything that goes bump in the night.

We asked a top-tier firearms expert a fundamental question: What is the largest caliber bullet on Earth? The Barrett M82 .50 caliber sniper rifle is noted for being the largest-caliber rifle that can generally be owned by civilians. According to the National Firearms Act of 1934, calibers larger than .50 are not actually illegal. But they are highly restricted, and some communities and states still ban such firearms and their ammunition. Both the weapon and the ammunition are considered destructive devices under the NFA and therefore require a background check and transfer.

Certain historic firearms are exempt, however – notably the German-produced Mauser 1918 Tankgewehr, T-Gewehr, the world’s first anti-tank rifle. While it was chambered for the 13.2mm TuF (Tank und Flieger) round – which is .525 caliber – it is generally legal to own. (Check with local law enforcement to make sure.)

Other firearms must be rechambered to be fully legal. One noteworthy example is the British, World War II-era Boys Anti-Tank Rifle, which was produced as a .55 caliber weapon. When that rifle was offered for sale as military surplus after the Second World War, most were rechambered to .50 in order to comply with the NFA.

Yet neither the Boys Anti-Tank Rifle nor the T-Gewehr is the largest-caliber firearm offered for sale today. A common misconception is that the .700 Nitro Express has the distinction of holding the largest-caliber bullet – but that’s not correct. The cartridge was introduced in 1988 by boutique gun makers Holland & Holland of London, England for big game hunting and as a scaled-up version of the .600 Nitro Express. Single factory-loaded .700 Nitro cartridges now typically cost around $100.

Meet the .950 JDJ

When it comes to a rifle cartridge, nothing is larger than the .950 JDJ, which uses 240 grains of powder to push a 2,400-grain bullet at 2,100 feet per second (FPS). In addition to being the largest caliber on the market today, it has also been measured as generating 277 foot-pounds of recoil, or approximately 10 times as much as a 30-06 rifle. For that reason, shooters must use scopes, bipods, and other components that are designed to handle the force.

The .950 JDJ large caliber rifle cartridge was developed by American gunsmith and weapon designer J. D. Jones of SSK Industries. It has a bullet diameter of 0.950 inches, while its case length is 2.75 inches. Projectiles are custom-made and commonly weigh around 3,600 grains, or roughly half a pound.

Despite the fact that it is nearly double the size of a .50 caliber bullet, SSK was able to receive a sporting use exception to deregulate its rifles and accompanying rounds. It can be owned like any other Title I rifle by an American citizen at age 18. However, SKS only manufactured three of the rifles and actually stopped producing the ammunition in 2014.

Few may ever get a chance to shoot this rifle, but the question to ask is whether you’d even want to try.

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A Senior Editor for 1945, Peter Suciu is a Michigan-based writer who has contributed to more than four dozen magazines, newspapers, and websites with over 3,000 published pieces over a twenty-year career in journalism. He regularly writes about military hardware, firearms history, cybersecurity, and international affairs. Peter is also a Contributing Writer for Forbes. You can follow him on Twitter: @PeterSuciu.

Hunting is a thrilling outdoor activity enjoyed by many enthusiasts. Whether you’re a seasoned hunter or a novice, prioritizing your safety is essential when venturing into the wilderness. By taking certain precautions, you can ensure a safe and enjoyable hunting experience. In this guide, we will explore crucial points to keep yourself protected while hunting.

Proper Planning and Preparation

Before heading out for a hunting expedition, thorough planning and preparation are key. Start by familiarizing yourself with local hunting regulations and obtaining the necessary permits. Research the specific rules and regulations for the area you plan to hunt in, as they may vary depending on the location and the type of game you intend to pursue. Study maps of the hunting area to understand its topography, potential hazards, and legal boundaries.

It is also important to inform someone reliable about your trip, including your expected return time and the location where you will be hunting. Provide them with relevant contact information and instructions on what to do in case they don’t hear from you within a reasonable timeframe. Additionally, carry a means of communication like a mobile phone or a two-way radio to stay in touch with others if needed.

Dress Appropriately

Choosing the right attire is vital for both comfort and safety during a hunting trip. Opt for clothing that provides effective camouflage and blends well with the natural environment in which you will be hunting. Consider the predominant colors and patterns of the landscape during the season you plan to hunt. This will help you remain undetected by your game.

Ensure your attire includes bright-colored elements, such as an orange hat or vest, to enhance visibility to other hunters in the vicinity. This is particularly important to avoid any mistaken identity accidents. 

Additionally, for those seeking an extra layer of protection, considering the use of a bulletproof vest can be a worthwhile option. While not commonly utilized in standard hunting scenarios, bulletproof vests can provide an added level of safety in specific situations where there may be a higher risk of accidental discharge or when hunting in areas where firearms are more prevalent. You can get more information from https://bulletproofsupplystore.com/, but generally, bulletproof vests are designed to absorb and distribute the impact of bullets, reducing the risk of serious injury. Consult local laws and regulations regarding the use of bulletproof vests during hunting activities and consider professional advice to choose a vest that suits your specific needs.

Handling Firearms Responsibly

Firearm safety is of utmost importance when hunting. Always treat firearms as if they are loaded, even when you are certain they are not. Familiarize yourself with the specific features and operation of your firearm, whether it’s a rifle, shotgun, or bow, and ensure it is in proper working condition before every hunting trip. Regularly inspect your weapon to check for any signs of wear or malfunction.

When transporting firearms, always follow local laws and regulations. Ensure they are unloaded, securely stored, and properly cased or holstered. When handling firearms during the hunt, maintain the barrel pointed in a safe direction, away from yourself and others. Never place your finger on the trigger until you are ready to shoot. Remember, proper firearm safety practices are critical to preventing accidents and ensuring the well-being of everyone involved.

Be Aware of Your Surroundings

Maintaining awareness of your surroundings is crucial for your safety while hunting. Regularly scan the area for other hunters, as their presence may not always be immediately apparent. Communication is key in such situations, so consider using a whistle or other agreed-upon signals to alert nearby hunters of your presence.

Before taking a shot, always positively identify your target and what lies beyond it. It is essential to have a clear line of sight to your target without any obstructions that could cause a bullet or arrow to deviate from its intended path. 

Avoid wearing headphones or engaging in activities that may distract you from your environment. Be cautious of potential obstacles like fallen trees, uneven terrain, or wildlife that may pose a threat. By remaining vigilant and alert, you can reduce the risk of accidents and ensure the safety of yourself and others.

First Aid and Emergency Preparedness

No matter how careful you are, accidents can still happen. Therefore, it is crucial to carry a well-equipped first aid kit and have a basic understanding of first aid techniques. Your first aid kit should include items such as bandages, adhesive tape, antiseptic wipes, tweezers, and any necessary prescription medications. It’s also a good idea to carry a compact manual that provides instructions on basic first aid procedures.

Learn how to treat common hunting injuries like cuts, sprains, or burns. Understand the signs and symptoms of more serious conditions, such as hypothermia or heat exhaustion, and know how to respond accordingly. Additionally, include essential items like a flashlight, whistle, and compass in your survival kit. These tools can be invaluable in emergencies or when unexpected situations arise.

Familiarize yourself with basic survival skills such as building a shelter, starting a fire, and finding sources of potable water. While these skills may not be necessary for most hunting trips, knowing them can provide added confidence and security. Stay up-to-date with weather forecasts and be prepared for sudden changes in weather conditions.

Hunting is an exhilarating outdoor activity that allows us to connect with nature and challenge our skills. However, ensuring our safety should always be the top priority. By following the points outlined in this guide – proper planning, appropriate attire, responsible firearm handling, situational awareness, maintaining hydration and nourishment, and being prepared for emergencies – you can significantly minimize the risks associated with hunting.

I’ve been in a few needed-gear discussions through the years, and my pack is wiser and better for it after such campfire sessions.

In fact, if you happen to look through my pack right now, odds are you’ll find a few of those must-have items that weren’t always there before; things like a book or magazine to read, a roll of toilet paper, and a copy of the latest hunting regs.

By the way, if you’re going to rummage through my hunting pack, be sure to put down that package of Old Trapper Jumbo Kippered Beef Steak because it’s mine, and no, you can’t have it. The same goes for the Old Trapper Original Deli Style Beef Sticks, while we’re on the subject.

But there are other items in my pack besides some great-tasting beef jerky. And some, put simply, are so vital to a solid outcome that if you head into the woods without them, you’re not really ready to hunt, in my humble opinion.

With that in mind, here’s a guide to 10 indispensable items that every deer hunter will want to have handy in a hunting pack.

Bright Stuff

In all my years of hunting, one of the most indispensable items I’ve made a habit of never leaving home without is what I call “the bright stuff.” That includes a compact and bright flashlight, like those made by Surefire or Streamlight, tools that can help a hunter get to the stand way before dawn, back to the truck well after sundown, and during the O’ Dark Thirty search for a downed buck.

You’ll also find a headlamp. And batteries, don’t forget the extra batteries. Why? Because nothing—and I mean nothing—is as worthless as a bright flashlight or headlamp that won’t shine on a moonless night.

Sharp Stuff

If being able to find your way into and out of the dark deer woods is one necessity in a hunting pack, so, too, is a way of field dressing a downed buck and notching a deer tag. After all, that’s the end goal of a deer hunt, right?

Early in my hunting career, there was always a Buck Knives 110 Folding Hunter—besides being a timeless classic in the hunting knife world, it was also a Christmas present from my late grandmother Zelma—tucked away in a zippered pocket. There’s also a Knives of Alaska Cub Bear caping knife and a KOA Bobcat hatchet tool as well.

And since knives can see their edges dulled from use in the field, be sure that you have a knife-sharpening device of some sort, something like the multi-function, portable sharpening system, Smith’s Pak Pal Pocket.

Stand Prep Gear

While on the subject of sharp things, don’t forget a few tools for prepping the area around your deer stand.

Obviously, a good limb saw is a fine start in this department, as is a pair of brush-cutting shears, or garden pruners, to help snip away a limb or two that might block a clear shot path when Mr. Big comes calling. Since some public hunting areas won’t allow cutting or pruning activity, a handful of black or brown zip ties is a must to hold back protruding vegetation along with a few feet of paracord for the same purposes.

Gloves

Most hunters carry a pair of camouflage gloves (don’t forget the face mask or head net, either) in their pack, gloves that will help hide hands from the prying eyes of a deer cruising through the woods.

But there are two other types of gloves you’ll want in your pack as well. The first is a pair of leather or canvas work gloves for dealing with moving big tree limbs, pushing logs out of the way, or dragging a big buck out of the woods.

And last—but certainly not least—is a pair of field-dressing gloves in your pack, indispensable tools when it comes time to getting a downed buck ready for transport back to camp. After all, you plan on punching a deer tag on your next hunt, right?

Hunting Extras

I used to think having an extra bowhunting release or supply of rifle or muzzleloader bullets was overkill and just added unnecessary weight to a pack that already seemed heavy enough.

That is, until I dropped one of those items to the ground 20 feet below my treestand as shooting time arrived. Or discovered that such vital necessities were back in my pickup truck, two miles back down the trail and minutes before I expected Old Swamp Daddy to show up. In such instances, what’re a few extra ounces worth?

Rain Gear

I’ll be honest, if the day’s weather forecast shows an all-day downpour is coming, I’m probably going to skip out of deer hunting (unless there’s an enclosed hard ground blind I can sit comfortably in as everything gets drenched).

But for the times when an unexpected shower pops up on the radar, some lightweight rain gear is a blessing and a half, helping me stay warm, dry, and comfortable, just long enough for the woods to come alive as does and big-antlered bucks get up, shake themselves dry, and start to move again.

Hunting Calls

I’ll admit that I was once a skeptic about carrying hunting calls. You know, the extra weight thing, and the nagging question of whether or not they really worked.

But then came hunts where I saw firsthand proof that the grunt calls and rattling horns I wasn’t always sure about actually did work. In fact, I can still see the South Texas buck all wide-eyed and nostrils flaring as he came searching for a buck fight that didn’t exist.

Now, you’ll never find me in the deer woods these days without a grunt call, a fawn bleat call, and some way to simulate a pair of old bucks knocking their heads together again. Like doubting Thomas, I’m a believer now.

Power, Power, Power!

A high-school football coach friend of mine is fond of the running game for his program. After all, it’s worked wonders down through the years and sent a number of good running backs on to play college football. So, it’s no wonder that he often says that his favorite brand of gridiron action revolves around “Power, power, power!”

The same is true for deer hunters and the powering up of their smartphones or other electronic devices. While I could wax poetic here and say that we should leave such devices back at camp, none of us ever do.

And after texting back and forth to my wife about the adult kid’s Christmas lists, looking at e-mails from the boss, or checking the latest football score on a Saturday afternoon, I know firsthand how the cold temperatures and long hours of deer hunting can zap an electronic device of its life-giving power.

The solution? Keep a charged-up power supply handy in your pack, along with a power cord, and you’ll get through a long day of hunting with plenty of electronic juice to spare.

Hydration

In the good old days, I’d have probably just written something here about carrying a thermos of hot coffee or a bottle of water, something to wash lunch down and help keep a hunter hydrated.

But as a hunter moving through his 50s right now—loosely translated, that means that I have trouble staying alert and my muscles get sore pretty easily—I now opt for hydration that brings a benefit beyond simply slaking my thirst.

That means carrying a packet or two of hydration mixes from hunting nutritional product companies like Mossy Oak Wellness, Mtn Ops, or Wilderness Athlete, among others. Depending on what product you like, there are various flavor options as well as products that can help with muscle tissue recovery, a boost of energy without the caffeine-related crash, and even give a boost to your immune system.

Nutrition

Last, but not least, you’ll want to make sure that your pack has some way to fuel the big hunting engine known as your body, a way of gaining some nutrition, a few calories, and staving off a growling stomach until you can get back to camp and can grab a hot meal.

When planning for a lengthy deer hunting sit, I’m going to be packing food items like a turkey sandwich or two, two or three packages of peanut butter crackers, and a few sleeves of my favorite nuts or trail mix.

Whatever is going into my pack, I want food and snack items that are protein-rich, low on fat, skinny on carbs and calories, aren’t terribly smelly, and come in packages that are easy to open and don’t make a lot of noise as I’m fumbling around.

That leads to one of deer hunting’s most perfect snack options, the beef jerky products made by Old Trapper, the Oregon-based company founded in 1969 that is one of America’s leaders in making tasty and nutritious jerky products like the company’s time-honored Old Fashioned Beef Jerky in the clear 10-ounce packaging.

From a nutritional standpoint, the Old Fashioned flavor checks all of the boxes for yours truly: it’s low in fat (as in zero percent for overall fat and saturated fat daily allowances), it’s low in per-serving calories (70) and carbs (6 grams), and it packs a powerhouse punch of protein (11 grams).

Not to mention that it’s plenty darn tasty and satisfying, too. Plus, if you’re familiar with the history of the Forest Grove, Oregon, jerky-making company, then you’ll recognize that it’s this jerky—and its lean cuts of seasoned and lightly brown sugared beef—that started Old Trapper’s run to the top of the mountain, all out of the back of a small grocery store.

Today, the company still uses real wood, real smokehouses, and the time-honored processes that result in jerky that is never tough, always tasty, and a welcome part of any deer hunter’s pack.

Numerous other options are in the Old Trapper line-up too, including Old Trapper Teriyaki Beef Jerky; Old Trapper Peppered Beef Jerky; and Old Trapper Hot & Spicy Beef Jerky.

And don’t forget the Old Trapper Zero Sugar Beef Jerky; the oval coins of Old Trapper Old Fashioned Double Eagle Beef Jerky; or the company’s various snack stick products like the Old Trapper Teriyaki Deli Style Beef Stick and the Old Trapper Jalapeno Beef & Cheese Snack Stick among others.

In short, there’s a number of great items deer hunters need to keep in their hunting pack throughout hunting season, from the warm early days of September and October, to the bitter cold days of late December and early January as the buzzer gets ready to sound.

And while most all of these gear items are important in their own right, at the forefront of what needs to go into your pack are the beef jerky and meat snack products from Old Trapper, items that no deer hunting pack should be without.

A reflex sight that doesn’t run on batteries or solar power? Ruger says, “Yes!” with its new, low-profile Ready Dot.

by Rob Reaser

There is no question that red dots are “the thing” for a growing number of pistol shooters and EDC adherents. As such, there are many red dots on the market to choose from for full-size handguns to the micro-compact variety. The latter pistols, by virtue of their small size, favor a more minimalist approach in red dot optics — reflex versus enclosed emitter, diminutive lens, “always on” or “shake-to-wake” activation instead of on/off buttons, and a low profile for use with the factory open sights when backup is needed.

There are many good miniature red dots available, but as far as we know and have tested, all micro reflex red dots are battery-powered…except one.

Ruger just released the Ruger Ready Dot. It looks like a conventional micro red dot and pretty much acts like one except that it doesn’t require batteries to operate.

Instead, the Ready Dot incorporates a simple fiber optic system to gather ambient light and display it onto a 12 mm multi-layer coated lens. Since there are no batteries to maintain and no switches to turn on and off, the Ready Dot is, well, always ready. Of course, since the system requires ambient light to be gathered and reflected off the lens, the Ready Dot does not function in darkness or in low light levels.

Think of it as the crystal radio version of today’s advanced electronic red dots; it works as designed, but with limitations.

Construction, as you can see, is about as simple as it gets. The housing is black polymer fitted with an impact-resistant, optical-grade polymer lens. The fiber-optic light-gathering coil sits where the battery would be on an electronic red dot, with the output end of the coil permanently affixed in the emitter position.

Although Ruger engineered the Ready Dot for use with the company’s Max-9 micro 9mm and thus uses the Shield RMSc mounting pattern, the unit will work with most handguns that feature the RMSc footprint.

For testing, I pulled out my Sig P365 since it came from the factory with the slide cut for RMSc-pattern optics. The downside to choosing this handgun to host the Ready Dot was that I would lose the factory rear sight. That did not end up being a deal-breaker, though, as I will explain shortly.

Installing the Ready Dot onto my P365 began by removing the two screws securing the rear sight to the slide. These buggers were on TIGHT and threatened to round out the hex slots when I applied torque. Rather that risk having the screws permanently lodged in the slide because of damaged screw heads, I pooled a few drops of Kroil on them and let it work its magic for a few hours. That was enough to allow the screws to be safely backed out of the slide.

With the rear sight screws removed, the sight is freed of the slide.

Next, the slide cover was removed.

The Ready Dot dropped expertly into place with no alignment issues.

While the Ready Dot comes with two M4x0.7 8mm screws for installing the sight onto the Ruger Max-7, those screws will not fit the Sig P365 bushings. Variations in screw type, slide cuts, and adaptor plates among assorted handgun models means the Ready Dot may not work on all micro handguns even if they feature the RMSc footprint, so check with the gun manufacturer before you buy. For my P365 installation, M3x0.5×10.6 screws got the job done and the Ready Dot chassis fit perfectly into the slide cut.

Here is the non-enhanced, non-altered image of the Ready Dot. Boasting a whopping 15 MOA diameter, the red dot is big, bold, and quick to acquire. It is also crisp, with a parallax-free distance of 10 yards.

Of course, the vibrancy and visibility of the dot is wholly dependent upon the ambient light. The more light gathered by the fiber-optic, the brighter the image, and vice versa. Part of my testing included a heavily overcast day — so dark it seemed more like dusk than mid-afternoon. Still the Ready Dot made itself quite evident. Inside of the house, visibility varied considerably when transitioning between dim and well-lit rooms.

Background lighting also figures prominently in the red dot’s visibility. If you’re standing in a dark room and aiming into a lighted room, the dot is difficult to pick up. When outside, though, the red dot stands ready.

I mentioned earlier about the Ready Dot requiring me to eliminate the factory rear sight on the Sig. Given the practical effective range of this and most micro-compact pistols, and the relatively short distance of most self-defense encounters, the lack of a rear sight is not a huge drawback. The tritium dot on my factory front sight is clearly visible through the Ready Dot lens, and placing the bottom of the dot at the bottom of the Ready Dot lens corresponds to the same sight alignment as if the rear sight were present — the exception being any left or right shift. To keep that under control, the Ready Dot chassis has a ramped, U-shaped cut-out to help with sight alignment when the red dot is not visible.

The one thing I was curious about before I installed the Ready Dot was its co-witness with the factory front sight because there is no ability to make windage or elevation adjustments. As it turned out, the red dot corresponded with the factory sight just fine, so there were no issues with point-of-aim, point-of-impact performance. Will that be the case for every handgun that hosts the Ready Dot? I can’t say. But then again, we’re talking about micro-compact pistols with a typically short engagement distance.

Although the Ruger Ready Dot will not give the 24/7 aiming solution of a battery-powered red dot, it is not trying to compete with those models. This is for the shooter who prefers a hands-off, zero-maintenance, always ready red dot suitable for most situations. And with an MSRP of $99.95, this is an easy buy for anyone with a handgun featuring an RMSc optic cut slide who wants to try their hand at a red dot.

I want to preface what I’m about to say by making one thing clear…I love all firearms.

Big ones, small ones, common, rare, old, new, whatever — if it goes bang, it has a place in my heart.

But the mostspecial place in my heart will always be held by the majesty that is the “battle rifle” — which usually means a semi-automatic chambered in .308 Winchester/7.62×51 NATO.

Why .308?

I’ve talked before about how much I love the .308 cartridge and how perfect it is for my needs and those of most shooters and hunters.

It’s good out to 800-yards, no sweat, and with quality match ammo, it will probably be more accurate than most shooters.

So while I love things like the 6.5 Creedmoor and .224 Valkyrie, I can’t get away from good ol’ .308.

If you are a fan of .308 and on the hunt for a new battle rifle, you might have noticed there are a few options on the market. So which is best?

I’m going to walk you through some of the Pew Pew Tactical team’s favorite battle rifles. We’ll examine some pros of each and discuss what makes them worthy of your attention.

So without further ado…let’s dive in.

THE QUICK LIST

Best .308/7.62 Semi-Auto Rifles

1. AR-10

When the words “.308” and “semi-auto” are uttered in the same breath, most people’s minds probably go to the AR-10.

The AR-10 is the starting point not only for most modern battle rifles but for most Western semi-auto rifles in general.

It would go on to spawn the AR-15 and all of its variants, making it the progenitor of arguably the most popular firearm family in the world.

You can read more about the history of these rifles in our AR-10 vs. AR-15 article.

Originally developed by Eugene Stoner to replace the aging M1 Garand for the U.S. military, the AR-10 has had a long and successful life.

In that time, it has remained in use globally, though these days mostly in specialized circumstances or in the hands of civilians.

That said, it’s still an incredibly robust platform, and modern refinements have only made it better.

Aero Precision M5E1

The Aero M5E1 is the gold standard for people that want a customizable AR-10 without breaking the bank — though you’ll have to piece it together yourself.

Coming in somewhere between $1,200 and $2,000 depending on options, the M5E1 is an excellent choice for those who want a solid rifle that can be made great with a few small upgrades.

You can read our full review here.

Palmetto State Armory PA10

PSA is a budget firearms enthusiast’s dream come true. I’m not sure exactly how they do it, but they have everything from ammo to AR-10s at rock-bottom prices.

Best of all, their PSA-branded uppers, lowers, and complete rifles are all very cheap compared to the competition. Their fit and finish are nothing to drool over, but they go bang every time, and they’re more accurate than the price would lead you to believe.

If you’re looking for an entry model AR-10 or semi-auto .308 in general, the PA-10 from PSA is available in multiple configurations. They start at about $700 and top out at around $1100.

You can check out our reviews of the .308 and 6.5 Creedmoor versions and peep our video review of the .308 version below.

Other AR-10 Info

Simply put, the AR-10 is the king of battle rifles. They are inherently accurate, reliable, and modular. Aside from the models we listed, there are plenty of great options out there Sig 716I and higher-end options like LMT MARS-H and POF Revolution.

Be sure to check out our AR-10 vs. AR-15 and 8Best AR-10s articles if you would like to know more.

2. PTR-91

The PTR-91 is a modern variant of a gun first manufactured over half a century ago, the Heckler and Koch G3 — one of the most revered battle rifles ever produced.

What would go on to become the H&K G3 was first produced in 1958. Primarily designed by German engineers working for the Spanish CETME development group, the CETME-C was a roller-delayed 7.62×51 rifle.

This legendary rifle would go on to inspire a number of similar rifles (and quite a few blatant copies) and be used by just about every country with a military.

The PTR 91 is an American-made G3 clone that uses tooling references from the original H&K G3 to be as accurate as possible to that original design, but with all the advancements and improvements of a modern manufacturing complex.

It also features the iconic H&K diopter sights (the little rotating drum you probably recognize most from the MP5) and a standard 5/28 threaded barrel making it ready for suppressors out of the box.

A nice bonus about these guns is the widespread availability of dirt-cheap magazines. You can find surplus magazines for $5 to $10, and new magazines can be had for as little as $10 to $15.

This is a battle rifle. It’s got a stamped and welded receiver just like an AK, and the trigger does double duty as a medieval torture device. Beware, these things absolutely chew up brass; so if you are planning on reloading, this gun will literally put a dent in your plans.

I’d be comfortable calling the base model a 2 MOA gun with mid-range ammo. Stepping up to their FR model with the match-grade bull barrel is an option for those looking to squeeze a bit more accuracy out of the platform.

There are several variations of the PTR-91, but they typically run from about $1,000 to $1,400.

For a battle rifle that’ll handle anything, it’s certainly not bad at all, and I’d feel good about having one to rely on in anything from a home invasion to an alien invasion.

3. DS Arms SA58 FAL

FN Herstal developed the Fusil Automatique Léger (Light Automatic Rifle) in the 1940s and saw it completed in 1953. During the Cold War, many NATO countries adopted it as their primary battle rifle, where it earned its nickname “the right arm of the free world.”

It uses a fantastic short-stroke, spring-assisted piston action that was very modern at the time. The system is still relevant today, allowing the FAL to stand shoulder-to-shoulder with much newer firearms.

The FAL is one of the most battle-tested rifles on the planet, and usually, the trigger is considerably better than most of the G3 options out there, which may lead to better practical accuracy.

I love the FAL, and it’s one of those guns I think anyone looking to build a serious gun collection should have. For me, it sits slightly above the AK and slightly below the AR-10/15 in the pantheon of shoulderable small arms.

Of course, if you want one, you’ll have to talk to an importer and get a civilian one. For that, I recommend DSA SA58 lineup. DS Arms is one of few companies producing parts and accessories for the FAL, including complete rifles.

The SA58 is a solid recreation of the FAL that holds its own against the other non-AR .308s we’ve talked about in the accuracy department. Although modern versions of these guns tend to be pricier, hovering between $1,500 to $2,500, they are fun and steeped in rich history.

Check out our review of one of DSA’s modernized FAL variants here.

4. Springfield Armory M1A

Next up is the Springfield M1A. This is the civilian version of the iconic M14 — the rifle that trounced the AR-10 and FN FAL to become the U.S. Army’s primary battle rifle back in 1959 (however arguable those test results may be).

The M14 is, of course, a fully automatic military rifle, but the Springfield M1A is a semi-automatic, civilian version sold by Springfield Armory in various configurations.

You can get everything from the short-barreled SOCOM version to 21-inch barreled sniper configurations designed to get as much accuracy as possible out of the gun.

Some would say that M1A isn’t a great rifle, but I would disagree. Much of the accuracy of these guns is derived from a quality barrel and the mating of the action to the stock. This means that repeated detail strips of the gun can affect accuracy, especially on the base models.

Stepping up to the Loaded model that comes with the national match barrel is a good step in the right direction if you want those tighter groups. Fiberglass bedding between the action and stock will really let show you what a properly set up M1A can do accuracy-wise.

I own one in 6.5 Creedmoor, and I couldn’t be happier, but holy moly, do I want a .308 version. I just can’t quite justify the price for a second one, given that they run anywhere from $1,299 to $2,700, depending on trim level.

These rifles are a frequent sight on the field of competition, especially in service-rifle competitions. With classic ergonomics and excellent iron sights, the M1A lends itself well to shooting without optics.

The M14 is still used in a mostly honorary capacity by the U.S. military, with one or two exceptions — an especially notable one being its use by a number of competitive rifle teams from various branches.

While it may not be the best combat rifle or the cheapest battle rifle option these days, what it lacks, it makes up for in pure soul and fun. And if you aren’t sure which model is right for you, check out our ultimate guide to the best M1A models.

5. IWI Galil ACE Gen 2

Here comes the dark horse in the competition — the Galil ACE Gen 2 in 7.62×51 NATO. The first-generation Galil ACE was launched in 2008 but hasn’t been featured as heavily in the U.S. market, or video games for that matter, which kept it off many people’s radar.

So what is it, you ask? In a nutshell, the Galil ACE is the ultimate refinement of the AK-47 platform. It uses the same long-stroke piston and rotating bolt design as the Kalashnikov and even sports a similar pop-off dust cover.

What does all that mean? It means you get the robust and proven durability of the AK platform, combined with the hearty build quality that IWI is known for. Sprinkle in a version chambered for 7.62 NATO, and you have a hell of a battle rifle.

IWI recently introduced the Gen 2 version of the ACE. Updates include an M-LOK handguard, AR-style buffer tube for use with your favorite stocks, improved 2-stage trigger, and improved ergonomics.

By virtue of using a long-stroke piston, the ACE is able to have a folding stock and fire when folded. It also sports a non-reciprocating charging handle on the left side. Additionally, its cold hammer forged barrel ensures good accuracy and long service life.

Although a bit heavier than the SCAR-17S or the average AR-10, the ACE is still manageable at 8.6 pounds. The ACE also benefits from using standard SR-25/AR-10 magazines.

These rifles are a bit pricier, around $1,700 to $2,000, but are far from the most expensive on this list. If you are looking for something modern that isn’t an AR-10, the ACE might be your ticket.

Want to know more about the platform? Check out our full review of the 7.62×39 Galil ACE or watch Johnny B’s video below.

6. FN SCAR-17S

We’ve already given a spot on this list to the FN FAL, but I’d be remiss if I left out one of the most popular modern .308 battle rifles around.

The FN SCAR-H is a 7.62x51mm monster of a gun designed to be as modular as possible and to serve a variety of uses. From being a CQB weapon for various door-kickers and SF units to a scout sniper and sniper support platform, the SCAR-H can do it all.

A SCAR-H is a fully-automatic battle rifle capable of laying down 600 rounds a minute while also reaching out to the utmost limits of what the .308 cartridge is capable of.

Meanwhile, the SCAR-17S is the civilian version that goes bang as fast as your trigger finger can manage to go back and forth, and that’s plenty fast enough for me.

This is as solid of a rifle as you can get. The civilian version ships with a 16.5-inch barrel, but you can swap them out by removing just a few screws, allowing you to slot in any number of aftermarket barrels, from 13 to 20 inches, depending on your needs.

It uses a modern version of the short-stroke piston FN developed for the FAL, and it is currently in service in 24 countries around the world in one capacity or another.

For the civilian shooter like you and me, we get something that’s as military-tested as any rifle can be and is as close to military spec (aside from the lack of select-fire capability) as we can get.

The trigger is…not perfect, but certainly better than the FAL. The good news is that there are a considerable amount of aftermarket trigger options. If you’re going to slap a 20-inch barrel on there and stretch the SCAR out to 800 yards or more, you might consider swapping the trigger out.

All in all, it’s one of the best modern battle rifles out there and is pretty perfect if you’re looking for a heavy-duty semi-auto. The price is steep, but hey, you are getting a modern military-grade firearm, and that doesn’t always come cheap.

Be sure to check out our review of the SCAR-17S or watch the full video review below and let us know your take.

Final Thoughts

That was a look at some of the awesome semi-automatic .308 battle rifles out there. I certainly enjoyed writing it, and I hope some of this was helpful. If you haven’t found your next purchase, then hopefully, you at least learned something interesting.

What do you think of these rifles? Which one is your favorite? Thinking about getting one? Be sure to check out what to feed these beasts with our article on the Best .308 Ammo for Target Shooting, Plinking, & Hunting.

The key to a successful fishing experience has the right gear. Choosing the best ice fishing rods can make all the difference when it comes to catching fish through the ice.

In this blog post, we’ll provide you with a list of our 10 favorite rods for winter fishing, so you can be ready to hit the ice when the time comes!

Top 10 Ice Fishing Rods

Tip! Check out our other ice fishing gear guides if you’re just getting started.

10 Best Ice Fishing Rods Reviewed

• Abu Garcia Venerate
• 13 Fishing Widow Maker Evolve
• St. Croix Mojo Series Ice Fishing Rod
• Fenwick Elite Tech
• Shakespeare Ugly Stik GX2
• Frabill 6986 Combo
• Atataka Ice Fishing Rod
• Fiblink 2-Piece Portable Travel Ice Fishing Rod
• Berkley Cherrywood HD Ice Fishing Rod
• Shakespeare Wild Series Ice Fishing Spinning Rod

1. Abu Garcia Venerate

Best Ice Fishing Rod Combo

If you don’t already have an ice fishing reel that you love, it might be worth jumping and getting this solid ice fishing combo by Abu Garcia.

This is a solid carbon blank with stainless steel guides that have been upgraded with zirconium inserts.

The ultra-light is great for panfish and small trout. It’s well-balanced, and the reel has a smooth rotation. It’s comfortable to hold for long periods, and the rod is strong yet sensitive. This also makes a great ice fishing gift.

2. 13 Fishing Widow Maker Evolve

13 Fishing ice rods are stellar! If you’ve been ice fishing for some time and would like to move away from the budget rods, this would be the next best step up.

It’s a graphite blank that has great action. The cork handle is comfortable, and the guides are Alps thin wire double diamond guides, which are a nice step away from the generic stainless still guides found on cheaper ice rods.

3. St. Croix Mojo Series Ice Fishing Rod

We’re a huge fan of St Croix ice rods. St Croix continues to put out quality products year after year.

Consider using this rod if you’re looking to go after bigger fish like walleye, pike, whitefish, or lake trout. It’s sensitive enough to feel the slightest nibbles yet has enough backbone to hoist the big fish from the bottom. Walleyes ice fishing just got a lot more fun with this rod.

This is a popular rod and one you’d likely buy again throughout the years.

4. Fenwick Elite Tech

This is a very popular graphite ice fishing rod made by a company that knows a thing or two about catching fish. This rod is super sensitive and has a strong backbone with a quick tip. You might need a spring bobber if you’re going for small fish, but overall this is a great rod for your arsenal.

Best of all, it was not expensive. It’s not every day you get a quality rod at a good price.

5. Shakespeare Ugly Stik GX2

Best Beginner Rod

If you’ve never tried an Ugly Stik, then you’re missing out. These rods are darn near indestructible and will stand up to multiple years of abuse. If for some reason, you are able to wear through or break it, they are so well priced that picking up another is not a problem.

What’s better is this rod comes with a reel that will also stand up to a beating. This is the best beginner rod, especially if you are looking for long-lasting gear selling at an affordable price.

6. Frabill 6986 Combo

Here’s another extremely reasonably priced ice fishing rod and reel combo made by Frabill. Even if you’re fishing in sub-zero conditions, you can rest assured this rod will deliver. It comes with an ultra-sensitive micro spring bobber to sense when you have the slightest activity on your line.

Best of all, it comes at a price that might have you buying two just because you love them so much!

7. Atataka Ice Fishing Rod

If you’re looking for a little more sensitivity for your panfish bite, then check out this Atataka rod. It has a sensitive tip that should help you sight fish as well.

It’s flexible and has a strong backbone. The reel seat is nice, and the cork handle is comfortable. The orange tip is a nice feature to see the tip moving against the snow.

This will be your rod if you’re looking to put a bunch of bluegills, crappie, and even some largemouths in the cooler.

8. Fiblink 2-Piece Portable Travel Ice Fishing Rod

Sometimes you need to travel to find a hot bite in the cold weather. If you’re not looking to lug your expensive gear, you should look at this new Fiblink travel ice fishing rod.

It’s a carbon composite rod that is light and sensitive. You’ll be able to catch everything from perch, walleye, trout, and panfish. Best of all, it has an old-school pistol grip vibe which is more unique than anything we’ve seen in a while. It’s definitely worth a look!

9. Berkley Cherrywood HD Ice Fishing Rod

If you’re looking to start ice fishing and don’t want to spend a lot of money on gear, you need to check out this Berkley Cherrywood HD. Pair it up with a small 500-size reel with some light monofilament, and you’ll be all set to catch some small panfish on the water.

This rod is made from a 100% fiberglass ice fishing rod blank and comes with a comfortable cork handle. It has three guides, so it’ll be a bit better against freezing if you’re fishing outside.

This ultra-light can bring in crappies up to 22 inches. It’s also affordable, so if you break it, you won’t break your bank by replacing it.

10. Shakespeare Wild Series Ice Fishing Spinning Rod

If you’re looking for a comparable rod to the Berkley Cherrywood HD, but want more guides because you’ll be fishing inside your ice shed, then this is worth your consideration.

It’s made from fiberglass and comes with stainless steel guides for added durability. It has a light tip and a strong backbone.

This rod will have no problem bringing in walleye up to 27 inches on the medium power model. It’s a great walleye rod!

How to Choose the Best Ice Fishing Rods

There are some general rules of thumb to decide what type of setup you’ll need for ice fishing. We’ve listened to experts to see what they like to use so that you can determine what to get prior to hitting up your local shop or buying online.

Note: just FYI, it’s an ice fishing rod, not an ice fishing pole.

Generally, we’ll bucket our setups between panfish and larger fish. There are many ways to catch fish, but follow these guidelines if you have to start from scratch.

Ultralight Fiberglass Rod Setup

If you’re looking to catch panfish, including perch or bluegill, and want to use micro baits, you should get an ultralight ice fishing rod 18-24 inches in length.

You’ll want to pair that rod with the following:

• 500-size ice fishing reel
• 2-6lb mono/fluoro or
• 5 lb braid

Ultralight Ice Fishing Graphite Rod Setup

Sometimes fiberglass just won’t cut it in terms of sensitivity. Therefore, if you’re planning on going jigging for small walleye, crappie, bluegill, or rock bass, you should get an 18-24 inch rod fishing in your ice hut or 28-30 inches you’re fishing outside.

You’ll want to pair that rod with the following:

• 1000 size reel
• 2-6lb mono/fluoro
• 5-8 lb braid
• ML with fast action

This setup will be super sensitive, so we like it for jigging. For an even more feel, try using a 5-pound braid with a four-foot fluorocarbon leader.

Bigger Fish Ice Rod Setup

If you’re in an area where you can go for bigger fish, you’ll need another setup entirely. If you plan to go for whitefish, walleye, lake trout, or other monsters, then you should look at a medium to medium-heavy rod.

You’ll want to pair that rod with the following:

• 2500-size reel or
• Baitcaster 150-200 size
• 4-10lb mono/fluoro
• 5-10lb braid
• 28-36inch length when fishing outside
• 18-24 inside the tent

Again, feel free to use a braid with a fluorocarbon leader if you want a bit more sensitivity. Your way to select the right rod stiffness for the size fish you’re going after. Problems happen when you don’t dial this in properly.

Fiberglass vs. Graphite Ice Rods

When you’re choosing your ice fishing rod blank, you’ll likely be deciding between fiberglass and carbon fiber.

Fiberglass blanks are:

• super soft
• great for live bait and micro presentations

Graphite blanks are:

• a little stiffer
• great for working baits

Ultralight vs. Medium vs. Medium-Heavy

Make sure you match rod power to the size of the fish you’re targeting.

• Ultralight to light: target panfish
• Medium to Medium-Heavy: target walleye, lake trout, pike, white fish

Walleye Ice Fishing Rig

Walleyes are a fun fish to target and are a bit special. They need a good rod and reel to bring these fish to the surface.

They should have a solid backbone rod with a quality reel and drag. This will allow you to achieve a good hookset and to be able to play a fish properly. Make sure you drill a proper size hole in the ice or use an ice chisel to make an opening to get out your catch!

Guides

The worst thing that can happen when fishing is your guide freezing up. This can be quite frustrating and can damage your line if you’re not careful.

Usually, when guides are too small and it’s super cold outside, they’ll freeze up. The opposite of small guides are big guides, which can be nice, but tend to be clunky and take away from the balance of the ice rod.

You’ll also find that the bigger the guides, the less there are on the rod.

When possible, go with more guides for a better rod bend. If it’s freezing and you’re fishing outside, go with bigger guides.

Frequently Asked Questions

Juniper is a versatile plant with plenty of uses: in the kitchen, in gin-making, in the garden as a hedge or even as a decorative bonsai.

Juniper (Juniperus) is a decorative woody plant that has a unique look, aroma and healing properties. Here you will find out how to plant and care for juniper plants and why juniper berries are technically not berries at all.

Juniper: blooms, leaves and other characteristics

The juniper genus (Juniperus) belongs to the cypress family (Cupressaceae). The genus contains about 80 species, of which only two occur naturally in Central Europe. The other juniper varieties are almost all distributed throughout the Northern Hemisphere – from the Arctic to tropical regions. Evergreen juniper trees or juniper bushes grow upright, creeping or horizontally and give off a strong fragrance. Their leaves are needle-shaped or scaled, often soft and slightly flattened, but sometimes very pointed. Juniper flowers are often white or pink, very small and inconspicuous. Juniper is better known for its cone fruits, which are often called berries. Until the female cones have reached their blue colour, they have to ripen for up to two years. Juniper is dioecious, which means separate male and female juniper plants are needed for fertilisation.

But how big does juniper grow? Size varies greatly from species to species and ranges from a one metre tall shrub to a ten metre tall juniper tree. The common juniper (Juniperus communis), which is often planted in milder European climates, reaches an average height of about five to eight metres.

As well as being used as ornamental plants, juniper fruits are used to make gin, essential oils and condiments. They are also high in antioxidants and anti-inflammatory in nature – juniper berries are often used as a natural remedy to treat bronchitis.

Tip: Juniper is a traditional grave decoration, as their evergreen foliage and spire-like growth was thought to represent eternal life.

How to plant junipers: the right location and method

The Juniperus genus is very undemanding and robust, which is why you can plant any juniper in just about any location.

Only shade should be avoided: junipers need a lot of light to thrive. A place in the sun is ideal, while partial shade is tolerated too. Juniper is not overly sensitive to drought and even chalky soil is no problem for this hardy plant. Make sure the soil is well draining, though the juniper will also tolerate a location that is occasionally moist.

Tip: If you want to harvest juniper berries, plant one female and one male juniper plant.

Spring is the best time for planting junipers, but it is also possible to plant in early autumn. Spacing between juniper and other plants depends on the species and its growth characteristics. Place the root ball of the juniper in a bucket of water to soak. Then dig a planting hole in the desired location that is about twice the size of the root ball. If your garden soil is very heavy, you should dig the hole deeper. Mix the dug up soil with plenty of sand to improve water drainage. Then place the juniper in the hole, fill with soil and press down. Make sure to water the freshly planted juniper well.

Potted juniper: You can also keep some small junipers in pots and place them on your patio or balcony. Juniperus communis ‘Compressa’ or Juniperus squamata ‘Blue Star’, for example, are suitable for this. Add a drainage layer of clay shards to the bottom of the pot to ensure good drainage. High-quality potting soil, such as our Plantura Organic All Purpose Compost, is perfect for potted juniper.

Tip: Junipers can be used to form an excellent hedge. To do this, reduce the plant spacing and place two juniper plants per metre of hedge. The columnar juniper Juniperus scopulorum, is one variety suitable for this job.

How to care for junipers: the right location and method

There is not a huge amount to consider when caring for junipers. Although the plants grow slowly, they do not require any additional care. Only young junipers require watering and, depending on the time of planting, winter protection can be helpful.

Juniper care: watering and fertilising

Since junipers cope well with drought, there is no need to water larger, well-established plants. However, you should water freshly planted, young junipers regularly to support healthy growth. In the first few years however, watering is only really necessary when it is dry. Likewise, junipers do not usually require fertiliser, given they are planted in a suitable location. Nonetheless, in sandy soils or in pots, apply a little slow-release fertiliser occasionally. Junipers need a nutrient balance that is low phosphorus and high in magnesium. Because of these special requirements, our Plantura Rose Food is actually ideal for junipers. You should also be sure to repot your potted junipers every so often, as fresh soil stimulates healthy growth.

How to prune juniper

Juniper tolerates pruning well, which is why it is often used in topiary. Bear in mind, however, that juniper grows slowly and takes longer for new shoots to form. Although it is not strictly necessary to prune junipers, it does encourage branching. When pruning, avoid cutting into the old wood: After heavy pruning, older junipers barely produce any new shoots. A large, healthy plant can be pruned back a little more. Although, it is not guaranteed to regrow. To avoid this risk, simply remove visible dead branches in spring and regularly prune back young junipers slightly. Since juniper needles are very sharp, always wear gloves when pruning.

Common juniper pests and diseases

Although juniper is very robust, there are still some pests and diseases that plague the sturdy plant.

• Phomophis blight (Phomopsis juniperivora): Also known as conifers dieback, this disease results in brown discoloured needles and small black fruiting bodies of the veru fungus that causes the disease. To treat, cut all affected parts of the plant back extensively.

• Juniper ermine moth (Argyresthia trifasciata): If the shoots turn brown from the tips, you may have an ermine moth infestation on your hands. You should seek advice from a plant protection service on how to best combat this for your individual plant.

• Rust fungi (Gymnosporangium): Hawthorn rust, pear rust or juniper rust are caused by various rust fungi. You can recognise them from their yellow, tongue-shaped fruiting bodies and swollen shoots. Cut off any infested parts of the plant and dispose of them in your household waste. These fungi can spread to other plants, such as pear trees.

Juniper propagation

The best way to propagate junipers is from cuttings. To do this, take a young shoot from the main shoot in late summer. This should be slightly woody, but still green at the base. Cut off the stem bark with a sharp knife and remove the tip of the shoot and the lower needles. Then plant the cutting into a mixture of all purpose soil and sand and place the whole thing in a bright place with high humidity at around 20°C. Keep the soil moist at all times. By spring, roots should have formed and the juniper is ready to be repotted or transplanted outdoors.

Tip: When propagating, be sure to use a cutting from the juniper’s main shoot because the conifer shoots will “remember” their growth direction. A side shoot, on the other hand, will not grow straight up after propagation.

Are junipers winter-hardy?

A well-established juniper does not need any extra protection in winter. Though young plants should be protected with a layer of mulch. For potted juniper, place it on a wooden block and wrap it with some jute or a hessian sack to be safe.

Harvesting and using juniper berries

Of all the varieties, common juniper (Juniperus communis) is the one most commonly used in the kitchen. The cone berries of the female juniper are ripe as soon as they turn dark blue. This happens two years after pollination. The berries are used, among other things, in juniper tea or for making gin. Other species, such as the savin juniper (Juniperus sabina), are poisonous in all parts. Juniper wood contains essential oils and are also often used to flavour meat.

Tip: Savin juniper was also used in the past for medicinal purposes. It was used, among other things, to clean wounds, for respiratory problems and abortion.

Are juniper berries poisonous?

Juniper species are slightly poisonous in some, sometimes in all, parts of the plant. While common juniper berries were used in the past for medicinal purposes, they also contain substances which, in excess, can cause irritation in the gastrointestinal tract or on the skin. Juniper should not be consumed during pregnancy or if you have kidney problems. Excessive juniper consumption is also poisonous for pets. Savin juniper is even classified as poisonous and can cause severe irritation and skin blistering from skin contact alone. Vomiting, diarrhea, and blister pain are among the most common symptoms of savin poisoning.

Juniper and heather shrubs are happy to share the same sunny, dry and sandy locations. And like juniper, the type of heather “cross-leaved heath” is very popular in gardens too. Learn all about how to care for it in our article on cross-leaved heath.

Fact checked by Steven Lines, lifelong Hunter, and Outdoorsman.

The elk (Cervus Canadensis) is one of the largest members of the deer family that you may encounter. The tracks and signs are similar to other deer, but a few features still set them apart. Learning to distinguish between very similar species can be tricky initially, but it will come with time.

The main difference between elk and moose tracks is their number. Usually, elk travel in a herd (large groups), while moose travel alone. Another feature that differentiates moose and elk is the shape of the toes.

It’s important to mention that you should check which animal you have a license for before pursuing the hunt. Moose (Alces Alces) and elk are two of the most prominent members of the deer family, so it is easy to tell them apart if you know what you need to look out for.

When you can learn how to identify the elk tracks and distinguish them from moose tracks, the chances of viewing and hunting this animal are much higher.

How to Identify Elk Tracks?

Elk are usually active at dusk and dawn, and they can be frequently seen feeding in prairies during the day. These animals can also be nocturnal. They inhabit woods and pastures. Elk are similar to moose and deer as they belong to one family, but their toes are much rounder and not as sharply tapered at the tips.

These are the main features to differentiate elk tracks from other animals. If the elk are galloping, the dewclaws may appear in the tracks.

Before learning to identify the elk track, it’s good to know that elk have cloven hooves. Deer tracks are smaller than elk tracks. Elk tracks are noticeably round. The length of the tracks is usually 4 inches long. Elk have two dewclaws on each foot that are situated higher on the leg. The tracks may also have prints from dewclaws if the animal was running.

Elk usually travel with a step distance of one and a half to three feet. Elk are social animals, which means they travel in big groups. That’s why you may usually find a mess of tracks left by multiple elk rather than clear tracks of a single animal.

There is a possibility that domesticated cattle left the tracks. This may concern you if you are informed that there are cattle in the area. Cattle tracks have a more circular appearance compared to elk tracks.

The widest point in elk trace is lower from the center, while cattle tracks have this point in the middle of the track. Adult cattle tracks are large and blocky and as well as quite distinct. But young cattle leave a track that is often very similar to what an adult elk can leave.

It’s recommended to look around for more distinctive tracks and possible cow chips or other characteristic features of elk tracks in those cases.

The spacing of the toes can also help you to identify elk. The elk most likely left the track if the toes are close at the back. Other animals, which tracks you may initially misidentify as elk, have evenly spaced toes. These animals include deer, moose, and cattle.

How to Identify Moose Tracks?

Measuring the size of the tracks will help you identify what animal is in the area. This is also relevant for moose, as their tracks are particularly long. Moose is the largest member of the deer family. Mature bull moose can make tracks that are at least 6 inches long. To compare, the tracks of cows are one inch shorter, and elk tracks are 2 inches shorter.

Elk tracks are 4 inches long, while deers are just 3 inches long. So if you see unknown large tracks, you’ll be easily able to tell that moose left them. Moose can create tracks that have a different shape than those that elk leave. Moose tracks are narrower than elk’s and heart-shaped.

Looking closely, you can also notice dewclaw imprints, which help determine which legs left certain prints. The dewclaws on the hind feet are in the direction of the animal’s travel. The front feet are pointing out to the sides.

Compared to deer tracks, moose leave deeper tracks than others due to the animal’s size and weight. In snow or soft soil, moose tracks may even look like holes in the ground.

It’s also interesting that you can even determine the moose’s age by its tracks. The shape of hooves can show you that. Younger bulls or female moose have pointy and sharp hooves, while older and mature bulls leave wider, heart-shaped prints. The distance between each print can also help you determine if it was left by moose or not.

An adult moose creates a stride that is 30-40 inches long. If the strides are smaller, then other animals in the area probably made them. If the track size fits the descriptions above, but the stride is much longer than 40 inches, then it’s a sign that the moose may have been running.

If the tracks are messy, or there’s a lot of upturned earth, it’s a sign of running moose. And lastly, the print itself can show you that moose made it if you know how the moose hooves are built. There should be two hooves and two smaller toes behind them.

What Is the Difference Between Tracking Elk and Tracking Moose?

Elk and moose both have very similar features. Elk and moose both have their antlers shed from November till March. Their tracks are also very similar. However, several key features make them easy to differentiate.

Moose have more heart-shaped hooves, while elk have more tooth-shaped, which makes their tracks different. Moose are much heavier, meaning their tracks are deeper. There are also other important features in tracks of moose and elk. For example, elk hooves have rounded toes, and each segment of the hoof is parallel to the other.

The number of tracks is also important, as it helps define what animal was on the trail. If you see hundreds of tracks on the trail, you will likely find the elk tracks as they travel in large groups. It’s a moose sign when you don’t see many tracks, as they travel alone or in small groups, such as a mother and her calf.

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Other Animals That Have Similar Tracks to Elk

Ungulate is a clade of primarily large mammals with hooves, and the members of this clade have similar tracks. There are two main groups of ungulates based on the shape of their toes. In one group, the members have toes that form heart-shaped tracks, while the other members have rounded toes.

Moose, deers, elk, bison, cattle, and cows are all ungulate members, meaning they share some similarities in their tracks. However, each animal has some unique features that help hunters see which animal left the tracks easily.

As a renowned outdoorsman and tracker, Tom Brown, Jr. said: “A track is a window to the past of an animal. Look at the ground as if it were a manuscript of the animal’s life.” So if you know what you’re looking for and know the characteristic features of elk’s tracks, you will have no problems identifying the tracks.

It can be pretty challenging to detect the prints of wild animals. This is because of their instinctive behavior. Reading the tracks is not easy as well. Because each situation during the bow hunt can be somewhat different, that’s why you must be prepared to use your intuition. In that way, you will be able to interpret what you see on the ground.

It would help if you understood that what you see in images and drawing online can be different from what you find outdoors. A track in the mud or wallow may look much different from one left in the dust or snow, even if the same wild animal has left them. Moreover, it’s essential to understand that animal tracks left in snow can change after the sun’s warmth distorts it.

Also, differences in tracks may appear if animals of different ages and sex leave them. There will be many cases when you may not identify the track on the ground, as no main characteristic features are present.

For example, the track doesn’t show all the toes. In this situation, it would be great to find other tracks on the trail or identify the possible direction where the animals went.

Steven Lines is a hunter and outdoorsman from Safford, Arizona, USA. Since he was a child, he has been hunting and fishing and has over 20 years of outdoor experience. Steven works as a hunting guide in Arizona during his spare time and runs a Youtube channel dedicated to sharing his outdoor adventures with others.

Sources

• “Moose track” by KatmaiNPS is marked with CC PDM 1.0
• https://www.livescience.com/54313-elk-facts.html
• https://www.eduscapes.com/nature/moose/index1.htm
• https://outdooraction.princeton.edu/nature/guide-animal-tracking

Skeet shooting and trap shooting are two popular forms of clay target shooting. Both involve shooting at clay pigeons (also known as clay targets or skeet) that are launched into the air at various angles and speeds. While the two sports are similar in many ways, some key differences set them apart.

In this blog post, we will take a closer look at the differences between skeet shooting and trap shooting, and help you decide which sport is right for you.

What Is Skeet Shooting?

Credit: Envato Elements/ MargJohnsonVA

Skeet shooting, also known as “skeet”, is a shotgun shooting sport in which clay pigeons are launched from two target machines known as “high” and “low” houses that are placed at different heights. When firing at the targets, the shooter stands in a variety of shooting positions around a semi-circular range. During each round, the shooter must complete a total of 25 shots.

Types of Skeet Shooting

The two most common types of skeet shooting are- American and International Skeet Shooting:

1) American Skeet Shooting

American skeet shooting is the most popular type of skeet shooting in the United States. It is governed by the National Skeet Shooting Association (NSSA) and the National Sporting Clays Association (NSCA). In American skeet, the targets are launched from “high” and “low” houses on a semi-circular range with eight shooting stations.

2) International Skeet Shooting

This form of skeet shooting is governed by the International Shooting Sport Federation (ISSF) and is shot on a rectangular range with eight stations. Like American skeet shooting, the targets are launched from a “high” and “low” house but from a different angle.

What Is Trap Shooting?

Credit: Minnesota Monthly

Trap shooting, also known as “trap”, is a shotgun shooting sport in which clay pigeons are launched from a single machine or a “trap” house located at the far end of the range. In this sport, trap shooters have five shooting stations and are required to take five shots at each station before moving on, making it a total of 25 shots.

Types of Trap Shooting

Similar to skeet shooting, there are different varieties of trap shooting, including:

1) American Trap Shooting

American trap shooting is practiced in the majority of American shooting ranges. It is typically done using a single launcher positioned in a small trap house which launches clay targets away from the shooter, who is stationed at one of the five available stations along the range.

2) Olympic Trap or Bunker Trap Shooting

In Olympic trap shooting, also known as “bunker trap,” a line of 16 machines is used to launch targets, rather than just one. The targets are launched at different predetermined angles, providing a challenging variation of the traditional trap shooting game.

3) Double Trap Shooting

Double trap shooting is a variation of the traditional trap shooting game in which two targets are launched simultaneously from the trap house. These targets usually follow a set part and shooters are required to shoot at them one at a time.

4) Wobble Trap Shooting

Like double trap, wobble trap is a variation of traditional trap shooting, where the target’s flight path is much more unpredictable. This is achieved by an oscillation mechanism that makes the trap move up and down as well as side to side

Skeet Shooting vs Trap Shooting: What’s the Difference?

Credit: Envato Elements/ vlad_star

Now that you have a general idea of skeet and trap shooting, let’s take a closer look at the distinctions between them so that you can make an informed decision and choose the one that you prefer the most:

1) The Movement of the Targets

In skeet, the targets are launched from two different houses at varying angles, making it a more challenging sport. In trap shooting, the targets are launched from a single house at a consistent angle, making it a bit easier.

2) The Rules

The rules of skeet and trap shooting are similar, but there are some key differences. In skeet shooting, the shooter must hit targets from both the high and low houses to complete a round. In trap shooting, the shooter must hit a certain number of targets to move on to the next round.

3) The Equipment

Both skeet and trap clay pigeon shooting require hunting guns and a supply of clay pigeons. However, the type of hunting gun and ammunition used can vary depending on the sport.

Skeet shooting typically requires a shotgun with a short barrel and tight choke, as the targets are launched at a closer range. Trap shooting, on the other hand, typically requires trap guns with long barrels and open chokes, as the targets are launched at a farther range.

If you’re interested in practicing skeet and trap shooting in your own backyard, consider investing in a clay pigeon thrower like the one from Do-All Outdoors. Alternatively, if you prefer to throw your own clay targets, the White Flyer Blackout Skeet and Trap Clay Targets are an excellent option.

Which One Should You Choose?

When it comes to trap vs skeet shooting, the final choice depends on your personal preference.

Skeet shooting is considered to be more challenging and requires more skill, as the targets are launched from two different houses at varying angles. It’s a sport that requires quick reflexes and the ability to adapt to different angles and speeds.

On the other hand, trap shooting is considered to be more beginner-friendly, as the targets are launched from a single house at a consistent angle and speed. This sport requires a steady hand and good aim, but it’s less demanding than skeet shooting in terms of movement and adaptation to different angles.

If you’re looking for a challenging sport that will test your reflexes and adaptability, skeet shooting may be the right choice for you. But if you’re looking for a sport that is a bit more relaxed and easier to pick up, trap shooting may be a better fit.

Summary

Skeet and trap shooting are two popular clay target shooting sports that share the goal of hitting as many clay pigeons as possible, but differ in terms of range layout, target movement, and equipment used. The choice between the two ultimately comes down to personal preference.

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