Trotlining is one of the oldest fishing methods and still one of the most fun and reliable ways to ensure a good catch. There is no faster way to fill the freezer than learning to master the trotline. Even as a 10-year-old, I found that setting one up was a fairly easy lift. However, picking the best location takes some skill.

Trotlines should be set where there is some kind of current. A gentle lake current, such as an inlet stream, the fork where two streams or rivers come together, and gentle river eddies are all perfect trotline areas. Trotlines should never be set where state regulations make them illegal.

When it comes to setting trotlines, the general idea is easy. Stretch a line with a number of baited hooks hanging from it across a promising bit of stream, anchoring it on both ends. How complicated it gets from there depends on the style of the angler and the savvy of the fish. This article covers the basics of placing trotlines plus a few good ideas to try.

1. Locate the Current to Set Your Trotline

When it comes to setting trotlines for catfish, one of the most important things is to set the line where “catfish will come to feed.” Many fish love moving water and will usually travel upstream to find food that they smell in the water while they are downstream.

While several species are notorious for hiding out in holes and undercuts when they come to feed, they tend to hunt where the water is a little shallower, and it’s moving. When pole fishing, anglers try to lure a bite while they are in their hiding place. However, trotline fishing depends on the fish coming out to find food, so natural feeding places must be identified.

• Look in river bends where the current swirls sideways a little, bringing food into the current.
• Stream junctions where two or more streams flow together, causing a swirling smorgasbord of snacks brought downstream.
• Other places where the current will bring tasty morsels downstream. This does not mean fast-moving water, necessarily, but areas where the stream should bring fresh bites that a fish will come looking for.
• Lakes can be hard to trotline, especially when regulations allow only one trotline per angler. It is hard to decide where to place it until a honey hole is discovered. Walk or cruise the lake to discover areas where the water has some kind of current. Inlet areas are perfect. Start by trotline fishing those areas with anchors.

Once a promising area is identified, the trotline can be set with bait so that the fish is not disappointed.

This video gives some additional great tips for both finding a good location and what times of year to set a line:

Related The 4 Best Tasting Types of Panfish.

2. Run the Trotline From Tree to Tree

The easiest way to set a catfish trotline is to anchor between two trees, sturdy tree roots, or two stumps.

• Anchor one end to a tree on one side of the stream or river.
• Boat or swim across to the other side and anchor the opposite end to a tree on the other bank.
• Small weights should be placed at intervals along the line to keep it from floating up.

Catfish feed on and near the bottom, so a bunch of bait floating high up in the current will not be very effective. Weights placed at intervals should keep the line evenly submerged. The height can be adjusted by adding or taking away slack on the lines fixed to the trees on either side.

3. Run the Trotline at an Angle and Vary the Depth

Experienced anglers have figured out a few ways to maximize the catch on trotlines. The key is envisioning how the fish are going to enter the fishing area and what they will be looking for. As they swim up toward a gentle current such as a stream inlet to a lake, they will also vary their depth as the bottom ascends to join the stream.

• Set trotlines at a 45-degree angle to the current, or as close as possible. A fish who is swimming upstream in search of food will have a single chance to spot and bite at bait set in a straight line. Put a nice slant on the trotline and increase the chances of a bite with every swish of the fish’s tail as it cruises up the line.
• Set trotlines at an uneven depth. The river bottom or lake bottom is not an even depth. Lines set in a straight line and all at the same depth will likely set some baits in the mud, while some are hanging too high in the current. Know the bottom. Set the line high toward the bank and low in the middle to follow the streambed.
• Sometimes the best setup is to have one end anchored to the bank and the other end anchored in the middle of the stream to place the trotline across a little current swirl that will be irresistible to catfish.

Be willing to think outside the box but within state regulations when it comes to setting trotlines.

4. The Floating Trotline

A different way to set trotlines is to create a floating trotline with longer lines. This method uses the current to help bob the baited hooks, increasing the temptation on the end of each snood.

• Make a regular trotline setup, but do not anchor the ends to trees or stumps.
• Each end of the trotline has a separate nylon anchor line that attaches to anchors a few feet below the trotline on the bottom. Think of the setup as a capital H, with the middle bar being the length of the trotline. There is an anchor on the base of each upright of the H.
• Each anchor line also has a floating buoy on the top to keep the anchor line tight between the anchor and the buoy. Imagine the buoys being placed on the top of each upright on the H.
• Floats are attached with line leads at intervals along the trotline to keep it bobbing up in the water rather than sagging onto the bottom. These floats will be visible on the top of the water, but the trotline will be a few feet under the water, suspended by the float lines.

This is a great way to trotline, especially in lakes where there are not good shoreline anchor points anyway. Plus, the depth of the trotline can be adjusted by attaching longer leads between the trotline and the floats.

Having trouble spotting your trotlines? Check out this video which has a really good idea:

Make Sure the Trotline is Legal

Some states have banned trotlines altogether, while other states have regulations regarding the type, makeup, and placement of trotlines. There are a lot of different reasons for this.

• Trotlines stretched across navigable waterways are hazardous, and in nearly all states, this is illegal.
• Some states require that trotlines have identification on them and that they be removed within a certain timeframe. Those left past the allotted time are considered forfeit.
• Other states ban live bait or have regulations on the type of bait that can be used on trotlines.
• Some states disallow certain kinds of lines, hooks, weights, and floats.
• Some states allow trot lining during the day but not overnight.

Whether the trotline is built or purchased, it is important to make sure that the line falls within the state and county Fish and Game regulations. Illegal trotlines will be confiscated, and the anglers can face heavy fines for poaching.

Final Thoughts

Trotlines are a fun, efficient, and traditional way to catch a mess of catfish and other bottom-feeders like crabs. The key is to be willing to think like a fish and try different ways of trotline fishing until the perfect setup is discovered.

As with anything, persistence is key. You have to learn what works best in your location and what setup brings in the most fish. Of course, as you know, that challenge is the fun part and why we are doing this in the first place.

Thanks for reading!

For more, check out 4 Best Tasting Freshwater Fish (And How To Prepare Them).

Image courtesy of K.C. District U.S. Army Corps of Engineers

The .308 Winchester (.308 Win) and 5.56 NATO rounds are two of the most popular centerfire rifle cartridges in the United States and across North America. Both cartridges are battle-proven and currently in service with the U.S. Military and its NATO allies.

The 308 vs 556 debate has been raging between civilian marksman, law enforcement, and military shooters for well over 60 years and is akin to a clash of heavyweight titans nothing short of Ali vs Frasier.

Sufficed to say, it is unlikely that we will be able to crown a victor in the context of this article.

However, get ready for an absolute knock-down, drag-out, slugfest between two of the most popular and iconic cartridges in shooting!

A Quick Note on Nomenclature

In the context of this article, .308 Winchester (308 Win) and 7.62x51mm NATO (762 NATO) will be used interchangeably. The same can be said for .223 Remington (223 Rem) and 5.56x45mm NATO (556 NATO).

However, please understand that rifles chambered in 308 and 223 are different than those chambered in their NATO spec equivalents, 762 and 556, respectively.

It’s important to note that NATO spec ammunition should ONLY be fired from rifles chambered to NATO specifications.

You should experience zero issues shooting .223 Rem ammo in your 5.56 rifle, but not vice versa. The same is true for .308 in a 7.62 rifle. This is due to chamber pressure differences between the .223 vs 5.56 and .308 vs 7.62 rounds.

Bottom line: Know what round your rifle is chambered in (it’s typically engraved on the barrel or receiver of your rifle).

What is .308 Win?

Following the end of the Korean War, the U.S. Military started developing a replacement for the storied M1 Garand. Although the M1 Garand had served the U.S. Armed Forces valiantly through World War II and Korea, the military wanted a more modern service rifle with select-fire capability and detachable magazines similar to the Stg-44 and AK-47.

The M1 Garand was chambered in the 30-06 Springfield cartridge, 7.62x63mm NATO designation, a round that has been credited with taking down every North American large game animal, including the great bears.

With advancements in rifle powder technology and case design in the 1950s, the new 7.62x51mm NATO rifle round was able to achieve neatly identical ballistic performance as the 30-06 Springfield with a shorter cartridge case length and lower overall weight.

The US Army officially adopted the 7.62x51mm NATO round and the new M14 battle rifle in 1958. The M14 featured a 20-round detachable magazine and select fire capability (semi-auto and full auto).

The M14 saw its first action in the Vietnam War before being quickly being replaced by the M16 in 1964.

762 has also been utilized in multiple machine guns fielded by the U.S. Military, including the M60, M240B, and GAU-17/A minigun.

Seeing the potential of the 762 in the civilian market, Winchester was quick to adapt the new rifle round to its Model 70 bolt action rifle. The civilian version of the 7.62 was named the .308 Winchester.

Other major firearms manufacturers followed suit and the 308 Winchester quickly became available in multiple bolt action, pump, and semi-automatic rifle platforms.

Other popular 308 Winchester bolt action rifles include:

• Savage 11/110
• Remington 700
• Ruger M77 Hawkeye
• Browning X-Bolt
• Weatherby Vanguard

The 308 Winchester has since become the most popular big game hunting round in the world with bullet weights typically ranging between 120 to 180 grains.

With astounding accuracy, stopping power, and an effective range out to 1,000 yards (with appropriate loadings), the 308 is a staple in deer hunting camps and in marksmanship competitions across the globe.

What is 5.56 NATO?

The 5.56x45mm NATO cartridge was derived from the .223 Remington (which itself descended from the .222 Remington). Development of the 223 Rem rifle round began in 1957 and the final design was submitted by Remington Arms to the Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturers’ Institute (SAAMI) in 1962.

The development of the 223 Remington cartridge was a joint operation organized by the U.S. Continental Army Command between Fairchild Industries, Remington Arms, and Eugene Stoner of Armalite.

Eugene Stone was the primary inventor of the AR-10 rifle (chambered in 7.62), which he was invited to scale down to accommodate the new .223 Rem cartridge.

The resulting rifle was the AR-15, which has become the most popular sporting rifle design in the United States. The military adopted a select-fire version of the AR-15, designating it the M16 in 1964.

FN Herstal developed the 5.56x45mm round beginning in 1970 using the 223 as a parent case. The 5.56 and .223 cases are identical in case dimensions.

However, the primary difference between the two cartridges is the maximum pressure allowance for the rifle rounds.

SAAMI specifications for the .223 Rem indicate that a maximum allowable chamber pressure of 55,000 psi. However, the 5.56 case was designed to handle pressures up to around 61,000 psi.

This is why you should NEVER fire 5.56 from a firearm chambered in .223 Rem, as the chamber a rifle chambered in 223 Remington is not rated to handle the pressure of a 5.56 round.

The 223 was quickly adopted to both AR platform and bolt action rifles from all major firearm manufacturers. Its low recoil impulse and flatter trajectory makes it ideal for marksmanship trials and varmint hunters.

As the .223 Remington ammo can be purchased in a variety of bullet weights for a variety of different applications, but the most common bullet weights that you’ll find in most all gun shops and sporting goods stores are 55, 62, and 69 grain.

.308 Win vs 5.56 NATO – The Contest Begins

Now that you have a clearer understanding of where each round came from, it’s time to ring the bell and let these two heavyweight sluggers throw hands! We’ve got 8 rounds (categories) for these two NATO pugilists to contend in.

Let’s get it on!

Round #1 – Recoil

Winner – 5.56 NATO

The 223 and 556 rounds were developed in response to the military’s need for a lower recoil battle rifle/carbine.

Although the 308 Winchester cartridge is a capable rifle round, it has almost double the case capacity and fires much heavier bullets. All of this adds up to considerably more felt recoil when shooting a 308.

The lower recoil of the 556 allows for higher accuracy and faster follow-up shots when engaging targets in semi-automatic or fully automatic fire.

Round #2 – Weight

Winner – 5.56 NATO

This is perhaps one of the biggest advantages of the 223 over the 308. The 308 Winchester is considerably heavier than its 223 Remington counterpart and soldiers can carry considerably more 223 into battle.

This was one of the main reasons for the development of the 556. Assuming a 22-pound ammo loadout, a soldier can carry approximately 660 rounds of 223 vs only 280 rounds of 308.

Round #3 – Effective Range

Winner – 7.62 NATO

7.62 was developed to have outstanding accuracy at longer ranges. Standard 308 Win loadings can still be combat effective out to 1,000 yards.

By comparison, the 5.56 is typically only considered effective out to about 500 yards.

When shooting out past 500 yards, wind drift becomes a major issue. With a heavier bullet, the 308 is going to be less affected by wind conditions than the lighter weight 5.56 rifle round.

Military and Law Enforcement snipers have long favored the more powerful 308 Winchester round for its accuracy and effective range.

Round #4 – Barrier Penetration

Winner – 7.62 NATO

Barrier penetration, or lack thereof, has been one of the biggest critiques of the 5.56 since its inception.

The 223 is faster but lighter in weight, and is therefore much more susceptible to deflection and tumbling when it encounters an obstacle when compared to the much heavier 308.

This was a major issue during the Vietnam War and why many veterans of that war are somewhat sour on the M16 rifle.

The newer 5.56 round has somewhat better barrier penetration when compared to the initial design of the 223 Rem, however neither compares to the raw penetrating power of a 147 grain bullet fired from a 308 Winchester chambered rifle.

Round #5 – Self Defense

Winner – 5.56 NATO by a tiny margin

Both the 5.56 and the 7.62 are going to be extremely effective during a self-defense situation.

Both cartridges are combat-proven and lethal within self-defense ranges.

The only caveat is that the 308 will be more prone to over penetration in a home defense situation, which is why I have to give a slight edge to 5.56.

Round #6 – Accuracy

Winner – Wash

Both the 308 and 223 are extremely accurate and reliable. Under 500 yards it is unlikely a shooter will be able to detect any noticeable difference in accuracy between the two rounds.

Round #7 – Stopping Power

Winner – 7.62 NATO

With its heavier bullet, the 762 has almost double the energy (ft-lb) at the muzzle when compared to the 5.56 round. We will cover more of the ballistic data below, however there’s no denying the sheer power and force of the 308 Winchester, which is why it is the ideal choice for big game hunting as well.

Round #8 – Reloading

Winner – Wash

Both the 223 Remington and the 308 Winchester are a dream to reload.

With a plethora of suitable powders, different bullets to choose from, and plenty of brass cartridges available on the secondary market, it makes reloading 223 and 308 a fun and enjoyable experience.

The average hand loader can easily produce match-grade ammo that is tailored to their rifle without the cost of purchasing match ammunition.

Crowning a Champion in the 308 vs 556 Title Fight

Honestly, this one is simply too close to call and we’re going to have to go to the judge’s scorecards to make a final determination.

But that judge isn’t me, it’s YOU!

The real difference between these two calibers is what your intended purpose is.

Looking to take down North American large game starting at deer and going up thorough Elk? Then look no further to the 308 Winchester with a box of hunting soft points to get the job done!

Maybe you’re looking to get into long range shooting out past 500 yards? 7.62 get’s the nod here as well with some high quality match grade full metal jacket (FMJ) ammo.

Maybe you’ve got a lot of varmints around your ranch and you need something light weight with fast follow up shots? Then an AR-15 or bolt action 223 Remington rifle will serve you well harvesting small game as your hunting rifle of choice.

Or perhaps you just want to get out to the range and have a good time plinking or target shooting with some cheap FMJ ammo? 5.56 takes this tile as well.

And then, of course, maybe you just want to enjoy your 2nd Amendment Rights and enjoy the freedoms our Forefather’s fought for? Then get both and see the benefits and limitations of both 223 and 308.

No matter which caliber you chose as the winner of this heavyweight bout, pick something that you enjoy shooting and get out to the range and see how tight you can make those 100-yard groupings!

And remember, buying in bulk is always smart, make sure to check out our stock of bulk 308 ammo and 5.56 bulk ammo.

308 vs 5.56 Ballistics

For all my readers who love the numbers, we have made an outstanding ballistics table comparing both .308 and 5.56.

We’ve compared velocity in feet per second (FPS), energy in foot-pounds (ft-lb), and bullet drop at various combat yardages to help you pick the best caliber for your intended purpose.

308 Winchester Ballistics: Chart of Average 308 Winchester Ballistics

Note: This information comes from the manufacturer and is for informational purposes only. The actual ballistics obtained with your firearm can vary considerably from the advertised ballistics. Also, ballistics can vary from lot to lot with the same brand and type load.

5.56x45mm Ballistics: Chart of Average 5.56x45mm Ballistics

Note: This information comes from the manufacturer and is for informational purposes only. The actual ballistics obtained with your firearm can vary considerably from the advertised ballistics. Also, ballistics can vary from lot to lot with the same brand and type load.

Scopes and sights will instantly improve your performance on the range or while hunting small game.

In low light conditions, it is not easy to acquire your target with stock iron sights.

A scope or sight will provide you a visible reticle in all lighting conditions that not only allows you to engage your target quickly but also increases your accuracy.

Note: You need to be at least 18 years of age to purchase any of the below air rifles, as well as adhere to the local laws governing their usage.

What to Consider When Buying an Air Rifle/Pistol Scope

Scopes and sights are performance enhancing accessories that are a must for long distance shooting.

To ensure you get the right accessory, you need to know the different sights, how much magnification you need, and the scope’s durability.

Type of Sight

You can mount red dot, reflex, and scopes to many air weapons if you have the required mounting hardware.

Even if your air pistol or rifle does not include the mounting platform you need, you can purchase adapters in most cases.

If you need an adapter, check out this site: www.AirgunDepot.com

Magnification

Reflex and red dot sights have 1x magnification which is perfect for short to medium distance shooting.

Scopes can offer 16x magnification, which is perfect for medium to long distance shooting.

Durability

While you are at the range or hunting small game, the weather may take a change for the worse.

When this happens, you will want your gear to be waterproof, shockproof, and durable.

Below are the 14 best air rifle and pistol scopes.

#1. UTG Hunter IR 3-9×40 AO

• Reticle: .25 MOA
• Magnification: 3x – 9x
• Weight: 21.1 oz.
• Water Resistant: Yes
• Price: $124.99

The UTG Hunter IR 3-9×40 AO was created with airgunners in mind to provide you a crystal clear image of your target with its emerald-coated optics.

The scope is excellent for precision shooting at various ranges with 3x to 9x magnification.

An excellent feature of the UTG Hunter is that the .25 MOA reticle’s color can change to ensure that you do not lose your target.

It comes with 36 reticle colors to choose from for a customized targeting experience.

The bright mil-dot reticle is perfect for all lighting conditions, including cloudy days.

It can withstand the elements with its durable design that is fog proof, shockproof, and rainproof.

With everything included to attach it to your weapon, the UTG Hunter IR 3-9×40 AO is perfect for any long distance shooter.

It is available at Airgun Depot. Here’s where to buy it: www.AirgunDepot.com

#2. UTG SWAT IR 3-12×44 AO

• Reticle: .25 MOA
• Magnification: 3x – 12x
• Weight: 23.2 oz.
• Water Resistant: Yes
• Price: $154.99

The UTG SWAT IR 3-12×44 AO provides shooters with up to 12x magnification making it one of the best long range air rifles scopes available.

Much like the Hunter IR 3-9×40, it includes an adjustable 36 color mil-dot reticle for better target acquisition in various settings.

To give you the best zero, it comes with .25″ windage and elevation adjustments and 10 yards to infinity parallax modifications.

With an emerald coating on the lens, you will have superior visibility for target practice or small game hunting.

It includes everything you need to attach to your air rifle to include Weaver/Picatinny rings and 2 hex wrenches.

It is a bargain at $154.99 and will assist you with providing tight shot groups.

It is available at Airgun Depot. Here’s where to buy it: www.AirgunDepot.com

#3. UTG CQB BugBuster IR 3-9×32 AO

• Reticle: .25 MOA
• Magnification: 3x – 9x
• Weight: 13.9 oz.
• Water Resistant: Yes
• Price: $117.99

The UTG CQB BugBuster IR 3-9×32 AO will provide you with a sharp picture that pops.

UTG secured the top three spots on this list for their value, function, and durability.

The BugBuster is like the Hunter IR 3-9×40 AO but with a few key differences.

It is more lightweight without sacrificing durability and is designed for close quarters combat.

The scope has parallax adjustments starting at 3 yards instead of 5 for a closer zero.

A downside is that the BugBuster does not have a 36-color adjustable reticle and instead has either a red or a green reticle option.

This is not a game changer for most people, but it may be worth spending the extra $7 if that is important to you.

Like the other UTG scopes already mentioned, it has an outstanding limited lifetime warranty.

It is also shockproof, fog proof, and rainproof.

You can not go wrong with this or the other UTG scopes on this list.

It is available at Airgun Depot. Here’s where to buy it: www.AirgunDepot.com

#4. CenterPoint Optics 32mm Open Reflex Sight

• Reticle: 1 MOA
• Magnification: 1x
• Weight: 5.5 oz.
• Water Resistant: Not Specified
• Price: $39.99

The CenterPoint Optics 32mm Open Reflex Sight is perfect for any close range shooting with its 1x magnification and 1 MOA reticle.

With unlimited eye relief, you will get pinpoint accuracy no matter how far your head is from the reflex sight.

You have the option of 4 different reticles that are available in either green or red.

It comes with an integrated weaver mount making it perfect for air pistols or rifles.

Weighing in at only 5.5 oz. it is super lightweight and compact at only 3.25″ long.

CenterPoint backs their sight with a limited lifetime warranty.

The CenterPoint Optics 32mm Open Reflex Sight is perfect for speed drills and quick target acquisition.

If you are looking for a solid performer at a great price, this may be the sight for you.

It is available at Airgun Depot. Here’s where to buy it: www.AirgunDepot.com

#5. BSA 30mm Red Dot Sight

• Reticle: 5 MOA
• Magnification: 1x
• Weight: 5 oz.
• Water Resistant: Not Specified
• Price: $33.59

The BSA 30mm Red Dot Sight is a high-performance red dot sight at an excellent price.

Built with a Picatinny/Weaver base, it can quickly attach to your favorite air rifle or pistol.

The 30mm tube provides you an extensive field of view, and the 5 MOA reticle makes it easy to acquire your target.

You can stay on the move with unlimited eye relief while taking down targets since you do not need to worry about your head placement.

To provide precise shots every time, the sight comes with .5″ windage and elevation adjustments.

If you want a red dot sight for close quarters shooting, the BSA 30mm Red Dot Sight is an excellent option at a great price.

It’s definitely the best air rifle scope for the money, all things considered.

It is available at Airgun Depot. Here’s where to buy it: www.AirgunDepot.com

#6. Mantis 3-9×32 AO

• Reticle: .25 MOA
• Magnification: 3x – 9x
• Weight: 16 oz.
• Water Resistant: Yes
• Price: $71.99

The Mantis 3-9×32 AO is a heavy-duty scope that is constructed out of high-grade aluminum.

The aluminum body also makes it super lightweight coming in at only 1 lb.

With durability in mind, the Mantis is fog proof, waterproof, shockproof, and it comes with a limited 1-year warranty.

It has a .25″ mil-dot reticle that provides a solid point of aim.

You can magnify your target up to 9x for precise shooting.

It also has a parallax adjustment of 5 yards to infinity to provide a clear picture no matter how far your target is from you.

The durable design, powerful magnification, and visibility make the Mantis 3-9×32 AO an excellent choice.

It is available at Airgun Depot. Here’s where to buy it: www.AirgunDepot.com

#7. Hawke Vantage IR 4-12×50 AO

• Reticle: .25 MOA
• Magnification: 4x – 12x
• Weight: 21.2 oz.
• Water Resistant: Yes
• Price: $209.99

The Hawke Vantage IR 4-12×50 AO is the second most expensive scope on this list but do not let the price tag scare you because it is packed full of features.

It is a great all-around scope with a magnification of up to 12x, making it perfect for long-distance shooting.

To take full advantage of the range of this scope, you will need a high-FPS air rifle or pistol.

It includes a 1″ mono-tube chassis that is 13.7″ long and weighs only 21.2 oz.

The .25″ MOA red or green reticle can easily sight in on your target with 10 yards to infinity parallax adjustment.

The reticle has 5 green and 5 red illumination settings for clear visibility in low light settings.

It is designed to last and is shockproof, fog proof, and waterproof.

The Hawke Vantage IR 4-12×50 AO is perfect for those who want a long-range scope with a 50mm objective lens.

It is available at Airgun Depot. Here’s where to buy it: www.AirgunDepot.com

#8. UTG 1×39 CQB Target Dot Sight

• Reticle: .5 MOA
• Magnification: 1x
• Weight: 13.1 oz.
• Water Resistant: Yes
• Price: $79.99

The UTG 1×39 CQB Target Dot Sight has a .5 MOA green or red T-Dot reticle, providing faster target acquisition.

It has flexible eye relief and has a wide 85′ field of view with a 39mm objective lens.

With a 42mm center height, it has co-witnessing for rear and front sights.

It is quick and easy to attach and detach the UTG 1×39 CQB Target Dot Sight to your air rifle or pistol with the patented quick-detach lever lock.

The scope also includes an integrated sunshade, which prevents glare and optimizes the amount of light that enters the sight.

It is barely noticeable on your weapon with a weight of under a pound, making it comfortable for all-day shooting.

You get a 2-year limited warranty and the quality that you expect from UTG.

If you are looking for a solid dot sight for your air pistol or rifle, the UTG 1×39 CQB Target Dot Sight is a top pick.

It is available at Airgun Depot. Here’s where to buy it: www.AirgunDepot.com

#9. CenterPoint TAG Series IR 4-16×40 AO

• Reticle: Not Specified
• Magnification: 4x – 16x
• Weight: 17.44 oz.
• Water Resistant: Yes
• Price: $99.99

The CenterPoint TAG Series IR 4-16×40 AO provides some serious magnification of up to 16x, making it perfect for long distance shooting.

With a 40mm objective lens, you can get clear visibility of your target at extreme distances.

The reticle has a TAG style that can alternate between red and green.

It has a 10 yds to infinity AO parallax setting to provide a sharp image no matter how far your target is.

You get a 6.3′ to 25′ field of view at 100 yards for better situational awareness.

It includes a limited lifetime warranty and a CR2032 to power the scope.

If you are looking for a 16x scope on a budget, the CenterPoint TAG Series IR 4-16×40 AO is your best option.

It is available at Airgun Depot. Here’s where to buy it: www.AirgunDepot.com

#10. UTG Hunter IR 4-16×40 AO

• Reticle: .25 MOA
• Magnification: 4x – 16x
• Weight: 22.3 oz.
• Water Resistant: Yes
• Price: $142.99

Think of the UTG Hunter IR 4-16×40 AO as the older brother to the Hunter IR 3-9×40.

It has all the same outstanding features, but it has a magnification up to 16x, making it a solid choice for long distance shooting.

It has a 36-color illumination-enhanced .25″ mil-dot reticle making it perfect for any lighting conditions.

It is 14.57″ long and weighs only 22.3 oz.

The scope comes with everything you need including a flip-open lens caps, 1 CR2032 battery, 2 hex wrenches, and high Weaver/Picatinny rings.

With the included limited lifetime warranty, this scope’s value can not be beaten.

If you are on a tight budget, go with the CenterPoint, but go with UTG Hunter if you have a large budget.

It is available at Airgun Depot. Here’s where to buy it: www.AirgunDepot.com

#11. Hatsan 1×30 Red Dot Sight

• Reticle: .5 MOA
• Magnification: 1x
• Weight: Not Specified
• Water Resistant: Not Specified
• Price: $29.99

Hatsan’s 1×30 Red Dot Sight is the lowest priced sight/scope on this list, but that does not mean they cheaply made it.

It has the standard 1x magnification found on most red dot sights and has a 30mm objective lens for an excellent field of view.

With unlimited eye relief, you can quickly acquire and engage your target.

It mounts to a dovetail platform and has a quick-detach standard dovetail base.

If you want a budget red dot sight that will give you quick, precise shooting in low light environments, look no further than Hatsan’s 1×30 Red Dot Sight.

It also includes a limited 1-year warranty.

It is available at Airgun Depot. Here’s where to buy it: www.AirgunDepot.com

#12. Hawke 30 SF Compact IR 4-16×44 Airmax, Ill. AMX

• Reticle: AMX Reticle
• Magnification: 4x – 16x
• Weight: 21.9 oz.
• Water Resistant: Yes
• Price: $389.99

At $389.99, the Hawke 30 SF Compact IR 4-16×44 Airmax, Ill. AMX is the most expensive scope on this list.

This premium scope has excellent features that set it apart from the other scopes on this list and would be the top pick if it was not for the price point.

It has a glass-etched red-illuminated AMX reticle, and the lens has 16 coated layers for better clarity.

The reticle has 6 levels of brightness for superior low light targeting.

This scope has a wide-angle lens for better downrange situational awareness.

The scope can take on the elements since it is waterproof, shockproof, and nitrogen purged.

With a side focus parallax correction, you will have excellent visibility from 10 yards to infinity.

While it’s a bit expensive, it’s easily considered as one of the best air rifle scopes available for sale right now.

It is available at Airgun Depot. Here’s where to buy it: www.AirgunDepot.com

#13. Hatsan Optima 3-9×40 AO

• Reticle: Not Specified
• Magnification: 3x – 9x
• Weight: 19 oz.
• Water Resistant: Yes
• Price: $79.99

Hatsan’s Optima 3-9×40 AO provides solid performance with a magnification up to 9x, giving you precise aim.

With the parallax being adjustable, you will have crystal clear visibility from 10 yards to infinity.

The scope includes a mil-dot reticle and has a 40mm objective lens, and is easily considered one of the best air rifle scopes on the market.

Not only is the scope waterproof, but it is also shockproof, fog proof, nitrogen-filled, and has a fully coated optical lens.

This competitively priced 9x air rifle scope also includes a 1-year warranty.

Hatsan’s Optima 3-9×40 AO may be right for you if you want a balance of function and value.

It is available at Airgun Depot. Here’s where to buy it: www.AirgunDepot.com

#14. Hawke Micro Reflex Dot 3 MOA

• Reticle: 3 MOA
• Magnification: 1x
• Weight: 2.5 oz.
• Water Resistant: Yes
• Price: $129.99

Hawke constructed the Micro Reflex out of aluminum for added durability.

The aluminum is lightweight, and the sight only weighs 2.5 oz.

For additional clarity and protection, the lens is fully multi-coated with 25 layers of protection.

The 3 MOA reticle provides quick target acquisition with unlimited eye relief.

The reflex sight comes with an 8-stage digital brightness control for precise shooting in low light environments.

A unique feature of this sight is that if movement is not detected for 5 minutes, the sight will automatically turn off to save battery life.

Hawke designed it with an integrated weaver mount for easy installation on your favorite air pistol or rifle.

It also has a 2-year limited warranty.

It is available at Airgun Depot. Here’s where to buy it: www.AirgunDepot.com

See Also

14 Best Red Dot Sights for Pistols, ARs, and Shotguns

12 Best Reflex Sights

10 Best Military Grade Binoculars

References / Resources

Air Gun Laws in the US

Affiliate Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links. If you click and purchase, I may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. I only recommend products I have personally vetted. Learn more.

When laser rangefinders hit the market, they did more than just replace the shoddy rangefinders of the past.

With advanced technology and innovative features put into the mix, laser rangefinders came with greater durability, longer range, and better performance.

There’s no doubt the better features such as built-in pressure sensors, wind calculators, and ballistic drop corrections are what make laser rangefinders a must-have in the field.

But the one feature that’s highly underestimated and no hunter should go without ever again, is Rangefinder Angle Compensation.

When you’re in your tree blind, out in the canyon, or in mountainous terrain, you’ll need a laser rangefinder to make sure you get the right distances to your target. Trying to eyeball a distance can be risky. You could end up with a misplaced shot.

Now, trying to eyeball a distance while on an incline or a decline can end up being a disaster of a shot. But if you have an angle compensating rangefinder that can do the math and the measuring for you, you’ve just improved your chances of taking home your prey. Make way now for Angle Compensation.

Angle Compensating Rangefinder: To Have or Not to Have?

Every long distance shooter, whether it’s the bow or rifle you prefer, knows that gravity is like the third wheel that you just can’t get rid of. So you make room for it, and every shot you make in the field, you compensate for its effects. There’s two distances that need defining if you want to get an accurate shot.

• Line of Sight: the actual measured distance between you and the target
• True Horizontal Distance: the distance which gravity will act over; the distance you’ll need to aim for

Of course, if you’ve got the perfectly flat terrain with the broad side of that elk facing you from about 40 yards, then the line of sight distance is going to be the same as the true horizontal distance.

Gravity won’t have much of an effect to affect either the bow or the bullet. Some people decide to forgo the angle compensation feature, saying it just makes a rangefinder more expensive than it needs to be since you can get by without it. “It’s only a few yard difference” says the skeptic.

However, no matter how ideal the perfectly flat terrain can be or how good your distance estimating skills are, hunting can take you to high-angle areas that just might show you how much of a difference those five yards can make.

Errors between 20 to 25 percent can make all the difference. For the bow hunter, that could be a complete miss. For the rifle shooter, a 20 percent error at 200 yards is a 40 yard difference. That could also be a complete miss or worse, a wounded animal.

“But why would shooting at a target on an incline or decline make a difference?”

Have you ever played one of those carnival fair games where you have to toss a ball into a bucket from about 10 feet away? In your mind’s eye, you know you have to toss a little higher to create an arc for the ball to land into the bucket.

Easy right? Well, take that bucket and put it on the top of the Ferris wheel, still only 10 yards away. Thinking your imagined trajectory path may need some tweaking now?

The rangefinder angle compensation feature can take into consideration the angle shot and the actual distance to give you a corrected value as accurately as it can, even to -/+.5 of a yard. The only thing left for you to do is to adjust your sights to match what the rangefinder calculated.

Since most optics are zeroed in on flat ground, you might want to consider a rangefinder that has further ballistic calculating capabilities where you know how many “clicks” you need to make to adjust for angle degrees.

Let’s take a look at a scenario…

You’re up in a tree blind and you spot an elk stroll into your ranging spread. Your line of sight distance to the elk is 70 yards, but the elk is only 23 yards away from the base of your tree stand.

What’s the actual distance you should aim for? On top of that, for the bow hunter, what’s the angle you should launch your arrow for? How many degrees do you adjust your scope for? For the rifle hunter, how far will your bullet get before a complete drop takes place due to the effects of air resistance and gravity?

Do these kinds of distances matter on trajectory anyway? Anyone have an electronic level or a protractor on hand? Anyone know what the acceleration rate of gravity is? Wait a minute, you didn’t sign up to be in math class right?

As the above scenario illustrates, calculating the correct distance to make an accurate shot from either an incline or decline to your target can be quite the math challenge. To make it simpler, a rangefinder with angle compensation can do all the hard work for you.

Your rangefinder should tell you the line of sight distance is 70 yards to the elk, but your true horizontal distance is 23 yards.

For the Bow Hunter…

If you’re an archer, these distances are going to be very important to distinguish between which ones are important for your shot. The line of sight distance tells you that although the elk is further away to your eye, you should use the horizontal distance and aim as if it’s 23 yards away because gravity only acts over a horizontal arrow path.

If you aim for anywhere near 70 yards, you’re going to miss and lose that arrow. That’s because you overcompensated the trajectory path by 47 yards which is a 70 percent error rate. That’s a big difference when 15 percent is considered accurate.

For the rifle shooter…

For the firearm user, these distances won’t make a difference, nor would it be a problem. But if the distances were more extreme, and the angles were steeper, you’d need better math skills or you’d need to get yourself a rangefinder with angle compensation. If you had a line of sight distance of 400 yards to your target at a 40 degree incline, you’re going to want to aim low and use the horizontal distance of 335 yards.

Rangefinders with ballistic calculators can tell you what your bullet drop holdover will be according to your rifle’s zero and the type of ammunition being used. Gravity acts over a horizontal path, so the bullet is only going to drop the more parallel your rifle is to the ground.

It’s important to remember that there is going to be less of a bullet drop whether you’re aiming up or down, and to always aim low.

Where to Use Angle Compensation

Both rifle shooters and bow hunters alike can benefit from using rangefinders with angle compensation. Situations that they could prove helpful for include:

• Rifle hunters with extreme distances
• Archers in a tree blind
• Mountain goat hunting in canyons
• Ranging in mountainous areas
• Ranging in unknown territory

With this in mind, check out 6 of our most recommended angle compensating laser rangefinders in the table below.

6 Best Angle Compensating Rangefinders

Laser rangefinders with angle compensation have made it possible to be done with the days of carrying around bullet drop cards with you, and having to tediously do the math before every shot.

Even if you don’t know that you’d need angle compensation for any of your hunts, it’s better to be prepared than to be without.

Images Source: https://www.bushnell.com/

Further Reading

• HANDS ON: Sig Sauer Kilo1600BDX Review (6x22mm Rangefinder)
• How Do Laser Rangefinders Work? (Everything You Need To Know)
• Leupold RX-Fulldraw 4 Rangefinder Review
• Vortex Fury HD 5000 AB Rangefinding Binoculars Review
• Sig Sauer Kilo 3000 BDX 10×42 Rangefinder Binoculars Review

For those of us who are into handguns and have not been living under a rock for the past 3 decades or so, the name Glock has come to be a household word in the shooting universe. People who may have never held a gun (let alone a Glock) recognize the name. It is estimated that 65% of U.S. police agencies use some form of Glock or another. It is time for us to take a deep dive into all you need to know about the Glock 9mm and the various models. We’ll look at:

The Glock story is quite remarkable considering that the man who designed the gun knew next to nothing about pistol design. Gaston Glock sold curtain rods and knives to the Austrian military, and was familiar with injection-molded parts. His team designed the Model 17 pistol to help the Austrian military who needed a new sidearm, and a firearms legend was born. An interesting tidbit is that the “17” represents the 17th patent issued to the Glock corporation, and this numbering sytems continues to this day.

Love ‘Em Or Hate ‘Em

Shooters tend to either be Glock fans or detractors – not much middle ground there. I am one of those rare birds who is in the middle with my opinion of Gaston’s wunderkind. I owned a Model 30 .45 ACP for a good while and had an aftermarket barrel for it so I could shoot my cast bullet handloads. It performed well without being overly showy. Gun eye candy it wasn’t. I called Glocks in another article I’d written the Chevy Impala of the pistol industry. The Impala is a good, mid-price car that is a popular choice among car buyers – reliable and well-designed without being overly showy.

The Glock, just like the Impala, gets the job done in a utilitarian manner. It gets the job done without costing an arm and a leg. And, they tend to be very reliable. All those police agencies buying into the Glock system is a pretty good testament to this.

Let’s Get Specific – the best sellers

Narrowing it down a bit, let’s look at Glock’s best sellers. In terms of caliber, the 9mm rules the roost for Glock. And, of over fifty pistol models Glock sells, their very-best-seller is the 9mm Model 19. This compact pistol packs 15+ 1 rounds in a smallish package. I know of many people who carry this model, as it seems to hit the optimal middle ground between concealable size and capacity. Now if that one isn’t for you you got another 19 main 9mm Glock models to chose from.

I put together a chart comparing specifications for the most popular models as well as an extended version comparing all twenty, for all you detail-oriented shooters. To be sure, some of these models are pretty scarce in gun shops as they tend to fulfill a very specific purpose (example: long-range competition, which the Model 34 excels at). So, before we crunch all the chart’s numbers, let’s look at the most popular Glock 9mms in some detail.

The Breakdown

In general, here is a quick, condensed listing of most of Glock’s models.

That’s the condensed list. Are you a numbers guy? Here is the extended version of all the 9mm Glocks available and you can click on the header to sort them (Table is best viewed on PC or Tablet):

Some Definitions, Please

Now, let’s look at the individual models, but before that, a little explanation is needed. If you glance at the table above, you will see “MOS” and “FS” listed after some models. MOS stands for Modular Optic System. Glock modified the frame on these guns by milling a slot in front of the rear sight to accept a red dot or other sight’s mounting plate. This is covered with a filler when not being used.

FS means the guns include Front (slide) Serrations. Those pistols marked FS have serrations on the front part of the slide to aid in manipulating the slide, in addition to the standard rear serrations. Many shooters asked Glock to include front serrations on all their newer guns. So far they only applied them to those guns that are marked FS.

Gen What? What’s The Difference?

An explanation of Glock’s generations is in order, if we are to keep this article as helpful as possible for those of you considering the purchase of a Glock. A “Generation” in Glock terminology equates to other companies coming out with “Mod 2”, “2.0”, etc. It basically designates a major overhaul of features on their guns. The feature changes (usually referred to as upgrades) could be several smaller ones, a few “big” important ones, or a combination of both in order to qualify to become the next generation. So, here we go, from the original Glock (now called Gen1) through the newest generation as of this writing, the Gen5.

Gen1 – Introduced in 1982

This is the original, bare-bones Glock Model 17. We can identify this gun by its relative lack of stippling or texturing on the frame and no finger grooves. This is the Glock that originally equipped the Austrian military when they placed an order for 25,000 pistols in 1983. Here’s an interesting note: In addition to the Model 17 pistols sold to the military were Model 18s – a Model 17 with selective-fire capability that fired between 1100-1300 RPM. Glock also offered a compensated version of this gun (Model 18C). This was technically a machine pistol and as such, was subject to the regulations and fees imposed on the ownership of machine guns as those individuals found out who attempted to buy one.

Gen2 – Introduced in 1988

Gen3 – Introduced in 1998

They gave the Model 22 RTF2 (.40 S&W) a rough, textured finish and fish-gill-shaped slide serrations and new checkering around the grip in 2009. Other models made available with the RTF2 treatment included the 31, 32, 23, 21, and 19, although not all had the fish-gill-shaped serrations.

Gen4 – Introduced at the SHOT Show, 2010

Gen5 – Introduced in August, 2017

OK…Got it? Now let’s look at some of the more common, readily-available models…

The 9mm Glock lineup

Glock 17

Starting with Model 17, we see a full-size frame and a longer barrel than the smaller models. This gun was the first Glock to go mainstream. This was mainly down to the adoption by the Austrian military and some police units starting in 1982. I remember when the gun came out – the first “plastic pistol” to go worldwide (the H&K VP70 technically was the first polymer pistol, introduced in 1970 for the German market).

The anti-gunners were all worked up that this “plastic gun” would be invisible to airport metal detectors, and some in the shooting community thought the gun would fail because of concerns they had as to the durability of the gun’s frame. Neither concern amounted to anything – they simply did not happen. Instead, the pistol’s reliability and innovative design endeared it to not only military and police units but to civilians as well. The gun has, on average, only 35 parts…talk about simplicity! My brother has a Gen 4 Model 17 that he really likes. I have shot it and was impressed. Due to its size, the 17 is not really made for concealed carry. It is more at home in a police officer’s Level 3 Retention holster, or in a tactical rig on the leg of a military SOE operative.

Variations

The Model 17 comes in Gen 3, 4 and 5 versions. Therefore, if you like finger grooves (or not), you are in luck – just buy the generation that has what you want. Need a competition gun? Pick up a Gen4 or Gen5 MOS and mount a red-dot sight on it. Want a plain-jane all-around shooter? Get a Gen3 and save some money (if you can still find one). The Model 17, as stated above, started it all.

Model 19

OK…now let’s look at a compact 9mm. Being the best-selling Glock make, the Model 19 has its share of enthusiastic users out there. Also, let’s not forget the after-market parts industry. The Model 19 probably has more third-party parts available than any other Glock. That said, the Model 19 is just about perfect for IWB- or OWB-concealed carry with its 4-inch barrel, slim inch-and-a-quarter width, and 15 rounds in the magazine. As I have written about before, this pistol is the benchmark other compact 9mms are judged against.

I know several people who carry a Model 19 and love it. It is no coincidence that Glock chose to release the Model 17 and the Model 19 first in their Gen5 configuration. The 17, with its law enforcement following, and the Model 19, being the best-selling Glock.

However…

The Gen5 Model 19 was generally well-received. The only complaint I’ve heard about the Gen5 Model 19 concerns the cutout at the front bottom of the frame. Some shooters say it hurts their hand, as it lies at the point where their hand’s heel and palm meet the frame. The sharp edge is the culprit, they say. This doesn’t seem to be an issue with the Model 17 due to its longer grip frame. Fortunately, they also addressed this issue in the new Model 45 (below).

Variations

Just as with the Model 17, there are several variations available for the Model 19. Depending upon your need, there is a configuration that should work for you. For competitors needing a red dot sight, the MOS models are indicated. You get the added benefit of forward slide serrations with those models, as well.

In addition to the availability of Gen3, 4, and 5 Model 19s, the fairly new 19X is now available as well. I think this one is worthy of a write-up here, and we’ll get to it next. You can also read my full Glock 19X review.

Glock 19X

To begin, it’s important to grasp what the Glock 19X is. It’s a G19 slide mounted on a G17 frame. Shorter barrels and longer frames are the current trends in weapons. That is precisely what the Glock 19x is all about. What’s the advantage of that? It provides a well-balanced and easy-to-control blasting experience. The redesigned Marksman barrel, paired with modifications to the handgun’s exterior frame, Glock claims, increases accuracy, longevity, efficiency, grip, and flexibility. Recoil management, on the other hand, was a piece of cake. Of course, there are still Glock haters and people who don’t like the adjustments. But for some shooters, as long as it is a ‘Glock’, it will be a fine gun.

What are the differences? With this version, you’ll get two reversed 19-round magazines and one 17-round magazine. The trigger pull is lighter than a standard 19. There’s also a lanyard loop and standard night sights. The most noticeable difference is the color, which is now coyote tan. The Glock 19x is bulky and difficult to conceal. Yet, the Glock 19x is still a competitive firearm and is useful for a variety of purposes.

When it comes to shooting, there are a few things to keep in mind. I fired a couple of different 9mm rounds through the 19X, and let me tell you, it’s a very accurate gun. The G19x could handle a wide range of bullet types, including hollow tips.

The snappy and smooth Gen 5 trigger is perhaps the G19X’s standout feature. The Gen 5 trigger incorporates a dual lock block pin assembly and a modified trigger bar. They altered the safety plunger on the Gen 5 to allow for a smoother trigger pull.

Glock 26

Here we have Glock’s double-stack subcompact 9mm. The Model 26 is a favorite backup gun among law enforcement officers and a prime candidate for purchase by civilian concealed carriers. At only a little over four inches high, this gun disappears in an IWB holster. When you carry a gun concealed, especially inside your waistband, the height of the gun is important.

The higher (or taller) the gun is, the harder it is to hide the grip frame as it tends to stick out and print under your garment. That’s why compact and subcompact guns usually come with a flush-fit magazine and sometimes an extended one as well. Most folks carry the flush-fit magazine in the gun with the longer one as a spare. The shorter the height of the gun, the easier it is to conceal, generally speaking. That’s why the Model 26 is so popular, being only a shade over four inches in height.

Glock still makes the 26 in Gen3, along with Gen4 and Gen5. This model is also able to use the greatest number of Glock 9mm magazines, eight. This gun’s standard capacity is ten rounds, but it can use all the Glock magazines up to thirty-three rounds. That’s versatility! Many people will buy a Model 26 in order to get the concealability it offers, and they also realize that they have the ability to use up to a thirty-three-round magazine. This is the best of both worlds for them.

Glock 34

The long-range specialist…the Model 34 was designed to be accurate “way out there.” It uses the longest barrel that Glock puts in a 9mm pistol, a 5.3-inch tube. This gun is a mainstay at competitions that require longer-range shooting. It is also a favorite of SWAT teams. What makes it so accurate? The longer barrel? The barrel length helps by ensuring that velocity is kept up. The main factor that aids accuracy is the approximate 7.5 inches between the front and rear sights. The further apart the sights are, the greater the chances of increased practical accuracy. Sights are about 5.3 inches apart on a Model 26 – that’s a pretty big difference.

The guns, obviously, serve two different purposes but I use the shorter-barreled gun as an example to point out just how long the barrel on the Model 34 is and how much different the sight radius is. Generalizations are difficult to make, but all else being equal, most shooters would be more accurate from 50-100 yards with the Model 34 than any shorter-barreled, shorter-sight-radius gun.

The fact that Glock sells a goodly amount of these pistols testifies to the fact that it works. Now…if we talk about intrinsic accuracy (the ability of the gun by itself to shoot accurately without human intervention), a lot of Glock 9mms would show they could be accurate at distance. Put a Model 19, say, in a Ransom Rest and see what it does at 50 yards. As for practical accuracy (a shooter holding the gun and shooting the best that he/she can), that’s where the longer sight radius comes in. Generally speaking, as stated above, the further apart the sights are, the better the gun’s practical accuracy.

The Model 34 is not made as a Gen3 gun, only a Gen4 and Gen5. With either of those, however, you can get the MOS version that really brings out the tack-driving accuracy these guns are capable of. Put a good optic on the gun and you’re good, as I said earlier, “way out there!” Such is the Model 34.

Glock 43

Now we come to the only single-stack 9mm that Glock makes. Here we have a gun that will just about fit in your pocket yet has the ability to put 6 + 1 rounds on a target very quickly and accurately. With a loaded magazine aboard, the gun only weighs about 21 ounces. This is a gun you can carry all day and forget that it’s there.

I have a friend on a local police force who traded a Beretta to acquire a Model 43. He told me he’s had a little trigger work done on the gun, but that’s the extent of his mods. He carries it daily. I’ve had the chance to shoot with him and his partner at my backyard range and well, let’s just say that I wouldn’t want to be on the other end of his Model 43’s muzzle. He is good with it, to put it mildly because he practices with it a lot.

If you are looking for either a primary concealed carry weapon or a backup, the Model 43 is a good choice. It only comes in one flavor right now – you can’t get a Gen5 version – but the one is good enough. A Model 43 and a couple of extra mags will make you good to go. I mentioned carrying this gun in your pocket. This is feasible, and a viable way to pack the 43. This is the only 9mm Glock that I know of that will fit in a pocket. The Model 42 .380 will ride in your pocket, but it’s not a 9mm.

My police officer friend Austin tells me he loves the little gun, as do many police officers who carry them in pockets, on their ankles, inside their waistbands, or anywhere else. It’s the de facto designated go-to

If you’re not fairly immersed into the bass fishing scene, you’ve likely never heard the term “meanmouth”. And even if you are as big into bass fishing as one could be, it’s still easy to have missed the boat on this terminology used to describe a hybrid mix between a spotted bass and a smallmouth.

Meanmouth are simply that though, the resultant offspring of an unnatural union between a Tennessee Smallmouth Bass and an Alabama Spotted Bass (commonly referred to for years as Coosa spots).

With this crossbreeding occurring in nature, it seems like the term unnatural might be a bit of a stretch. But the unnatural part refers more to how the possibility of these two species mating came about in the first place- the unauthorized introduction of the Alabama Spotted Bass into smallmouth fisheries.

Though the adventurous culprits of this malfeasance were likely motivated by the somewhat pure hope of having yet another aggressive and big bass to pursue in these waters, the introduction of the Alabama Spots and the resulting “mutt” hybrid offspring makes for trouble in these historic smallmouth fisheries.

B.A.S.S. Conservation Director Gene Gilliland commented on the ramifications.

“This Alabama Bass invasion and hybridization is resulting in the decline of Smallmouth Bass fisheries in almost every reservoir where they have been introduced into in Tennessee, North Carolina, Georgia and Virginia,” said Gilliland.

Both Smallmouth Bass and Alabama Spotted Bass are ferocious fish with big appetites. But it seems as those the cross between these two is an even more aggressive fish, that’s likely to consume more than its fair share of the forage. Which will, in time, hurt the population of native bass.

“Biologists with TWRA (Tennessee Wildlife Resources Agency) are very worried that if the trend continues, many of the prized smallmouth fisheries in Tennessee will be reduced if not eliminated,” Gilliland stated. “Even the largemouth populations will likely suffer.”

The concern is that famed southern fisheries like Ft. Loudoun, Watts Bar, Tims Ford, Chickamauga and Cherokee will see a decrease in the smallmouth populations that make them so special.

“Even lakes on the Cumberland drainage like Dale Hollow, home of the world record Smallmouth Bass, are now at risk of losing their Smallmouth fisheries,” added Gilliland.

Classic consideration

The presence of meanmouth in these fisheries puts a new burden on tournament organizations, with no bigger impact imaginable than what we could see this week in the 2024 Academy Sports + Outdoors Bassmaster Classic presented by Toyota.

There are specific regulations that must be satisfied to possess a bass of a certain species, and they’re rarely the same across all bass species in a fishery. For instance, a smallmouth caught in Fort Loudon must be at least 18- inches long to keep and bring to weigh-in. A largemouth need only be 14- inches long. And there is no minimum length required for spotted bass to be kept, though B.A.S.S. will require a minimum of 12- inches on spots for the Classic.

But taking into consideration that a meanmouth is a cross between a spotted bass and a smallmouth, how long does this hybrid bass need to be if an angler wants to bring it on stage at the Classic? The TWRA has taken this stance.

There is no “official” regulation on bass hybrids, but we advise anglers if there is a question about a fish that looks like a hybrid bass, then abide by the most restrictive regulation. If an angler catches and wants to keep for weigh-in a hybrid bass that looks like a smallmouth bass x spotted bass cross or a smallmouth bass x largemouth bass cross, then those fish would need to be 18 inches.

Since these bass have several of the characteristics of multiple species present, there’s no clear and concise way to lump them in with either. This means the anglers must air to the side of caution when trying to determine the length these bass mixtures must be. The TWRA offered additional clarification on the matter.

The presence of a tooth patch is not recommended to delineate among black bass species. Brown fish with vertical bars should be considered smallmouth regardless of the presence of tooth patch and must be at least 18 inches in length to retain.

The tooth patch referenced here is a rough spot that is found on the tongue of spotted bass, and it has long been used as one of the ways to differentiate spotted bass from largemouth bass, in the event the identity of the species of the particular catch was in question.

But some of these meanmouth have the tooth patch on their tongues as well, so this is no longer a sufficient metric for categorizing a bass as a spotted bass.

Though meanmouth have muddied the waters a bit here in Tennessee, it’s not likely this bass hybrid will cause a big stir in the 53rd Bassmaster Classic this week. But the presence of this new species of bass could wreak havoc on some of the South’s favorite fisheries overtime.

The takeaway

The TWRA and other organizations want to raise awareness to the long-term consequences of the introduction of non-native fish species into any fishery. Ultimately, the unauthorized movement of fish from one public waterway to another is something the governing bodies of these fisheries would prefer to eliminate altogether.

However, with limited resources and hundreds of thousands of acres to police, stopping this practice requires voluntary submission to these regulations by anglers. And even this won’t rectify the effects of the infractions that have already taken place.

As a remedy, conservationists are recommending selective harvesting in this particulate situation in order to help stem or perhaps even reverse the ill effects of the introduction of Alabama Spotted Bass into these fisheries.

Length and creel limits on spotted bass have been reduced and even eliminated all together on certain waterways in an effort to encourage anglers to remove these non-native fish to allow the more desirable species to flourish. This is the most effective way for the public to assist in the rebalancing and preservation of these historic and prized fisheries.

Dry aging may be getting all the attention, but don’t overlook wet aging as a way to tenderize and bring out more flavor in venison. In fact, most grocery store meat has been wet aged, and you can use the same technique on deer. I find that just a few days can help make a difference.

Benefits of Wet Aging

Aging is the process in which the natural enzymes in an animal’s muscles break down connective tissues; this helps to tenderize the meat and develop its flavors. While you won’t get the intense flavors characteristic in dry aging, there are other benefits to wet aging.

• Wet-aged meat does not lose moisture and there is no rind to trim off, therefore resulting in no loss of weight and meat.
• Dry aging should be done with primal cuts only, while wet aging allows for cuts of any size.
• Wet aging does not require any special equipment – a cold refrigerator, refrigerator thermometer and vacuum sealer are all you need.
• Takes up less space than dry aging.
• Can be done after the meat has been frozen.
• The entire animal does not have to be wet aged all at once. Thaw out meat and wet age as you plan your meals.
• While wet aging does not concentrate flavors, it does help to tenderize and bring out delicate flavors that has yet to develop in freshly killed venison.

Cons of Wet Aging

• You cannot wet age meat for nearly as long as you can dry age meat. The moist environment in wet aging will eventually turn to rot.
• There is no moisture loss in wet aging, therefore no flavor concentration.
• Mold is not a factor in wet aging, which is credited for bringing out nutty, cheesy notes possible in dry aging.

Prepping Venison for Wet Aging

Before aging meat, be sure to follow best practices for handling meat in the field. Because aging requires you to hold meat at temperatures above freezing, any cross-contamination can quickly turn into unwanted bacterial growth.

Remember to use clean tools and keep the meat away from dirt and debris. Also, avoid cutting into any scent glands and puncturing intestinal organs. Keep the meat cool at all times.

If you accidentally make a gut shot, use two sets of gloves and knives: one set to handle meat that you suspect may have come into contact with gut material and the other to handle meat you are positive did not. Keep both piles of meat separate to avoid cross-contamination. Only age meat that you know, without a doubt, did not come into contact with intestinal content.

Cuts to Wet Age

Cuts of venison used for grinding or stew do not benefit from aging. Freeze and use these cuts as usual.

For cuts that you plan on searing, grilling, sautéing or smoking, wet aging can be useful. The cuts I recommend for wet aging are the tenderloin, backstrap, bottom round, top round, eye of round and in younger animals (under 2½ years old), the sirloin tip.

Vacuum Sealing

Vacuum-sealed bags keep out oxygen, which slows down bacterial growth and prevents discoloration on meat. These bags also hold in the meat’s juices, which contains enzymes that will help break down the meat, thus tenderizing it.

Before you start vacuum-sealing meat, make sure there are no stray deer hairs or debris on the meat. If the meat is wet, pat it dry with paper towels—excessively wet meat will not vacuum seal correctly. Next, break down meat according to how much you and your family can eat in one sitting, and then vacuum seal into individual packages. At this point, freeze to wet age later or wet age all of the packages now.

To Wet Age

Buy a refrigerator thermometer to make sure your fridge is cooling accurately. Adjust the temperature to somewhere above 32 but below 40 degrees Fahrenheit—I shoot for 35 degrees. Place desired vacuumed-sealed packets of venison on the lowest – coldest – shelf, and leave it alone for a few days to as long as 3 weeks.

Tenderloins: How long you wet age meat will depend on the cut and your taste. Located inside the body cavity and just underneath the rib bones, the tenderloins do little work and therefore come out tender already. I mostly wet age tenderloins for flavor rather than texture; three to four days will usually suffice.

Loins: For backstraps, wet aging time is determined by the age of the deer. If the loin came from a doe or young buck, I shoot for at least five days to a week of wet aging. For older deer, I recommend two weeks. You could wet age the backstraps longer, but being an already tender cut, you could risk the meat becoming mushy. Again, it depends on personal preference, so experiment to see what works best for you.

Rounds: The cuts that may benefit from longer wet aging are those from the hindquarters of the deer, including the rounds and sirloin tip. On a 1½-year-old deer, you may not have to wet age long at all – perhaps a week. On older deer, I would shoot for 2 weeks. On mature bucks – I typically turn these animals into hamburger, but if you want to try wet aging, 3 weeks would be desirable.

There are hunters who have successfully wet aged venison for a lot longer, but I personally have not tried it.

After wet aging, cook the venison or freeze it to enjoy later.

Catching stocked trout can be easy if you know what the best bait is that stocked trout respond to. Some baits for catching trout from shore and on the water. Factors such as the weather to how long the trout have been in the water can affect the choice of the best lure.

Stocked Trout at the Hatchery

Top Lures for Catching Trout in a Pond or Lake

1. Fishing Spoons
2. Inline Spinners
3. Berkeley PowerBait Floating Mice Tails

Best Lures for Catching Rainbow Trout

Berkley PowerBait Floating Mice Tails

PowerBait Mice Tails are worm shaped rubber lures that have a round “head” in a contrasting color.

They are called Floating Mice Tails because they are meant to be fished with a slip sinker rig that lets it float 8 to 16 inches from the bottom of the lake, reservoir or pond.

PowerBait Floating Mice Tails

White, pink, fluorescent green and orange are top fish catching colors for me. Brown is a good color if fishing clear water and the day is cloudless.

Read More: PowerBait Mice Tails

In addition to fishing these with a slip sinker rig, they can also be put onto a line that has a split shot sinker tied to 8 to 16 inches above it.

What that means is you tie the hook at the end of your fishing line, slip the mice tail onto the hook, then about eight to sixteen inches above that, you crimp on a split shot sinker.

It’s a fast way to rig up mice tails but it could result in some line twist.

Fishing Spoons for Catching Trout

One of my favorite ways of catching trout is with a spoon. What I do is set up a PowerBait rig on one pole then with another pole start casting a spoon.

In my personal experience, catching stocked trout with a fishing spoon can be one of the most effective ways to catch fish.

Top Fishing Spoons for Catching Trout in a Pond or Lake

• Kastmaster Spoons
• Mepps Little Wolf
• Thomas Buoyant
• Super Duper Spoon

Spoons have different qualities and uses. Here’s a list of the best spoons for catching trout and with a description of how the fishing spoons work.

Super Duper Trout Spoon

The Super Duper is, in my opinion, a finesse type spoon. They’re very light and require ultralight fishing gear. In my experience, trout seem to attack it aggressively when nothing else seems to be working.

Thomas Buoyant Fishing Spoons Trout Lure

The Thomas Buoyant spoons are great spoons for catching trout. Use a small size like about 1/8 ounce or even lighter if you have ultralight fishing gear. I have caught countless trout with the Thomas Buoyant spoon.

The reason it works so well is because the shape of the spoon allows it to be fished relatively slowly without it sinking to the bottom. That’s something that cannot be done with a Kastmaster.

Kastmaster Spoons

Kastmaster spoons are fantastic spoons, too. What makes these spoons useful for catching trout is that they cast very far. Their aerodynamic shape helps them fly through the air farther. But that ability to cut through the air also makes it sink faster, as well.

That means you must reel it back to shore fast, which may or may not be the presentation that excites the trout. That said, I’ve caught so many fish with a Kastmaster, it really is a “must-have” lure.

Gold, silver/blue, and fluorescent orange/gold are top colors for brighter days. Firetiger is my go-to secret weapon for catching trout on cloudy days.

Mepps Little Wolf Spoon

The Little Wolf fishing spoon is one of my favorites because it has a fantastic tail-wagging action that trout seem to find irresistible. It darts left to right in a searching pattern.

Read More: Catch More Fish with Fishing Spoons

Drop Shot Fishing for Freshly Stocked Trout

An interesting way to catch stocked trout is to tie weight at the end of the fishing line, then add a hook about 12 inches above it so that the weight is at the bottom and the hook is higher up. That’s called a drop shot rig. Onto the hook you can put a three inch worm.

Then you can cast and retrieve. This works great for when trout have been freshly stocked and are swimming together in schools.

Stocked brown trout & brook trout

Brown trout & brook trout respond better to the instinctual trigger of a fleeing bait that is presented by an inline spinner, minnow shaped lure or a casting spoon.

Brown trout also more readily associate a worm with food than a stocked rainbow trout.

A meal worm or a hook laden with squirming little worms will trigger an enthusiastic lunge from a brown trout or a brook trout.

How to Catch Freshly Planted Trout

Notice how I keep repeating the phrase, freshly planted? When you read that phrase, please take it to mean that what I’m writing doesn’t necessarily hold true for trout that have been planted a month or more previously. A rainbow trout that has been in the lake or river for a few weeks will respond to real food like a worm.

How Stocked Trout Behave

Freshly stocked trout tend to swim in schools. If you are at a stocked reservoir, pond or river and see schools of trout swimming by, odds are that the lake has recently been recently stocked. Schooling is a behavior that comes from habit. Trout are raised in long oval shaped pools about two feet high. There is an artificial current in it and they tend to swim in circles, often counter clockwise. There is also netting above their pools to prevent birds of prey from swooping down on them.

The above is important information to know. It explains the behavior of trout after they’re planted. Stocked trout tend to keep close to shore, perhaps seeking the comfort of the edge they had been used to from being in the pool. They also tend to prefer swimming about eighteen inches from the surface or eighteen inches from the bottom. This means that if you are going to float a fishing fly or other bait under a bobber, rigging the lure about eighteen inches below the bobber is a good start. This is true when the temperature of the water is optimal.

When it starts to get warmer or time passes, trout tend to hover about eighteen inches to two feet above the bottom of the lake, often just a short cast from shore.

If you’re fishing a sliding slip sinker rig and are not sure at what depth the trout are holding at, start at twelve inches for one pole and eighteen inches for another pole. Then gradually increase the length up to about two feet.

The thing about trout swimming counter clockwise is also important, particularly to anglers who are trolling bait.

If you want to trigger an instinctual chase response, try circling your boat or kayak in a counter clockwise direction, that way your lure will pass them from behind.

If you are drifting bait with a current, particularly in a river, then the natural movement is casting upstream and allowing the bait to float and tumble downstream to where the stocked fish are holding.

After time has passed, rainbow trout begin to regain instinctual behavior such as shyness, staying close to the bottom, feeding on insects and relating to structure.

Examples of structures that fish seek are steep drops from shallow to deep, boulders, underwater trees, underwater currents, breaks in currents that create an area of calm water, shade etc. After time has passed, a rainbow trout will be able to be caught with lures with lively action and live bait. Stocked brook trout and brown trout consistently respond to movement, the action of a lure, as well as to the size.

What Fishing Flies to Use to Catch Stocked Trout

For fly fishing, flies such as the Cove Pheasant Tail, brown Wooly Bugger, natural colored Gold Ribbed Hare’s Ear fly, AP Emerger and other similar nymph type flies will take trout.

I think it’s because, combined with the way they are presented in stillwater (i.e. lakes and ponds) they resemble the general profile of trout food. Both the Cove Pheasant Tail fishing fly and the AP Emerger are well regarded flies for stillwater, with the Cove having been created specifically for stocked trout in reservoirs. In my opinion it’s no coincidence they resemble in color, size and presentation the general profile of trout pellets splashing down, particularly when two or three flies are tied in tandem.

What is Best Color PowerBait Dough for Catching Stocked Rainbow Trout?

There are many colors to choose from. Just keep in mind that white is a color that can be seen regardless of depth, regardless of how sunny or overcast the weather and without regard to whether the water is clear or murky. If you can only choose one color, white is the best color to choose because of how visible it is- and getting your bait noticed is one of the important keys to catching fish with dough since dough does not have fish attracting action. Other colors can be useful too, such as fluorescent for overcast days and pretty much anything for clear water.

Perhaps just as important as color is how light your hook is (will it float when smeared in trout dough?), making sure your bait ball isn’t too big, floating it at the right depth and casting it not too far from shore (although sometimes a long cast is necessary). These are rigged using a slip sinker rig.

Best Time of Day to Catch Stocked Trout

The best time to fish for stocked trout is during the early morning hours or about three hours after the brightest time of day, roughly between 3 PM and sundown. Stocked brown trout are especially active in the early morning and closer to sundown. Stocked rainbow trout can be triggered to bite bait all day if it’s cloudy.

While stocked trout can be caught at most times of day, anyone who is observant will notice that there are certain times of day where the fishing seems to “turn on” and many around a lake begin catching.

These are the best times to catch trout:

• Trout Dislike Bright Sun Fish during times of day when it’s not bright.
• Bugs tend to hatch at certain times of day, triggering feeding behavior
• Stocked trout are fed once a day, usually in the late afternoon. They are conditioned to be fed at this time of day.

Rule of thumb, fish for stocked trout on either side of high noon when the sun is at its brightest.

If you have any questions please contact me. I would be more than happy to write a post answering your questions!

Have a great time catching fish!

Roger

Spring in North America welcomes many things, one being morel mushrooms. There are a few types of morels, including true morels and false morels. There are more species of false morels than true morels. Both true morels and false morels tend to grow in the spring, under hardwood trees, especially ash and elms. Because of the similar ways these different species present, mushroom hunters are likely to come across false morels in their quest for true morels.

The Good and the Toxic

Before delving into morel mushroom hunting, foragers should have a solid grip on basic mushroom identification. What sets safe-to-eat true morels apart from false morels is a toxin known as monomethyl hydrazine (MMH), which is the same chemical found in certain rocket fuels and can cause dizziness, vomiting, and in some cases even death.

Mycologists know that true morel mushrooms are identified by narrow, pitted, wrinkled caps which are cone-shaped, hollow caps and stems, and caps attached to the stem rather than free hanging.

Black morel mushrooms have four lookalikes, and three of them are considered toxic—so it’s important to be able to tell the difference.

The good news: The three toxic wild mushrooms, Verpa Bohemica, Genus Gyromitra, and Verpa conica, are pretty easy to tell apart from true morels, if you know what to look for. Don’t let the simplicity fool you, though. One simple case of misidentification can have some nasty consequences, including symptoms of mushroom toxicity, gastrointestinal upset, illness, and death. So, although morel mushroom identification is basic, pay close attention to the small distinctions between the different species.

It is a good idea to carry a guidebook while foraging, to compare notes and photos, rather than relying on memory. A good one is Mushrooming Without Fear: The Beginner’s Guide to Collecting Safe and Delicious Mushrooms.

Read on for the top four most common false morels and ways to identify each mushroom species.

Morel Mushrooms Top Lookalikes

1. Wrinkled Thimble Cap (Verpa Bohemica)

Verpa Bohemica, or wrinkled thimble cap mushrooms, are sometimes, but not always, toxic. Still, we don’t like those chances. Verpa Bohemica is also sometimes called the early morel, early referring to the fact that Verpas generally mature just before and in the beginning of morel season.

The feature on Verpa Bohemica that most closely resembles true morels is the sort-of honeycomb cap, which is a trademark for true morels. On a wrinkled thimble, the honeycomb cap has sharp ridges and a more wrinkled look, like a sheet or brain. Cut in half, these wild mushrooms are not hollow, while morel caps are completely hollow inside.

2. Gyromitrin

Gyromitrin mushrooms are also sometimes toxic, though usually just in small amounts. That means if you eat it in small quantities, the toxins can cause nausea, stomach cramps and diarrhea. But in large quantities, eating a Gyromitra species can cause convulsions, jaundice, come, or even death.

These risks are most closely associated with two species of false morels: Gyromitra Esculenta and Gyromitra Ambigua. Many mushroom hunters in Europe consider false morels outside of those two species to be edible once cooked, but we preach caution. Note: even true morels can cause gastrointestinal upset when eaten raw, so it’s a good rule of thumb to always cook morels before consumption.

Gyromitra species can be found in many places where morels are also found. These poisonous mushrooms have the ridged caps of a true morel, but otherwise it’s much wider than it is tall, and its ridges don’t look like a honeycomb. Species of Gyromitra will have a much redder hue than a true morel will ever be, and when you cut it in half, it’s not hollow. All true morels will always be hollow.

3. Thimble Morel or Bell Morel (Verpa Conica)

Thimble Morels, in our opinion, look a lot like true morels. But they have very small, barely-visible ridges and a tiny cap. Moreover, these wild mushrooms have a skirt- or umbrella-like cap attachment.

Warning: The stem here is hollow, just like a true morel. But the cap doesn’t flow seamlessly into the stem but instead sits more underneath it.

4. Half-Free Morels (Morchella Semilibera, M. Punctipes, M. Populiphila)

Half-Free Morels are the closest relative to true black morels and look a lot like them. Luckily, they’re edible. They just don’t taste great. Half-free morels look like an ugly step-sibling to true morels, but they’re not harmful for you to eat (just not particularly tasty).

The main feature that sets them apart is that their cap looks like it’s half free, meaning the cap doesn’t flow seamlessly into the stem but instead tucks under. Usually, Half-Free Morels also have a really long stem compared to a true morel.

How to Tell Real Morel Mushrooms from Fakes

1. Look At the Cap

False Morels

• Irregular, “squished” shape
• Outward bulges
• Wave shape
• Hangs freely off the stem

Real Morels

• Uniform shape
• Pitted inwards
• Covered in pits and ridges
• Attached directly to the stem

2. Examine the Stem

Real morels have a hollow stem. Also, their overall shape is typically longer than they are wide.

False morels have a solid stem, and are often (but not always) wider than long. A false morel will have cottony fibers or may even be completely solid inside.

3. Check the Color

Real morels are usually a light tan, brown, or grey-black color. They’re almost never in the red spectrum.

False morels can be reddish brown or yellow.

4. Smell It

Real morels smell distinctly earthy.

False morels sometimes have a slightly sweet smell, or none at all.

5. Slice It in Half

False Morels are solid, not hollow, and are filled with cotton-like white fibers.

Real Morels are hollow from the tip of the cap to the bottom of the stem.

6. Check for Symmetry

A true morel will almost always have a nice symmetrical shape to it, whereas false morels have a wavy, uneven look. Bulges and folds will stick out, and the false morel may even look like someone stepped on it.

7. When In Doubt, Go Without

If you still aren’t sure that the wild mushroom in your hand is a real morel mushroom, leave it. False morels can be extremely toxic and the risk of poisoning is not worth the potential of a fresh mushroom.

Keep this in mind before you head out morel mushroom hunting next month.

READ MORE: 10 Edible and Medicinal Plants in the Colorado Rockies You Can Forage

If you’re anything like me, I want to get the best of what my money can buy.

I set a criteria for the best binoculars under $100 from Vortex, Celestron, and Bushnell.

But I also recommend a couple cheap binos that are worth it – real glass, decent focus, and a good build.

To provide some real input, I also field-tested some of my very own personal cheap binoculars!

8 Best Binoculars Under $100 In 2024

1. Nikon Aculon A211 8X42 – Editors Choice
2. Celestron Outland X 10X42 – Best All-Round
3. Bushnell H20 10X42
4. Vortex Raptor 8.5×32
5. Bushnell PowerView 10×50
6. Celestron SkyMaster 25×70
7. Binoteck 10×42 – Best Under $50
8. Tasco Essentials 10X25

The Best Cheap Binoculars Under $100

Not all binoculars cost several hundred dollars. But not all binoculars will be a one-time, lifetime pair. However, you can still get something that’s worth it for daily use for less than $100.

You don’t have to compromise for plastic “glass” or generic no-name brands. Vortex, Bushnell, Nikon, and Celestron have quality binoculars in this cost-conscious price range.

Though these budget binoculars don’t have industry-level resolution or military-grade toughness, they can get the job done.

For the money, they’ll perform for recreational applications, some hunting, and definitely neighborhood spying – oops, I meant, “observation.”

With decent to above-average glass and performance, my top 8 binocular picks, including a couple of my own field-tested models, meet my criteria.

Our 8 Top Binoculars Less Than $100

1. Nikon Aculon A211 8×42 – Editors Choice

The Aculon is always priced below $100, no matter what!

With this Nikon hanging from your shoulder, you’ll have an extremely wide field of view, fully multi-coated lenses, and aspherical glass elements to help you get the best image quality possible from a cheap binocular.

Even with only 8X power, you can still mount this baby to a tripod. Nikon knows how to jam in quality for the lowest prices possible. It’s probably why it’s such a popular buy among the hunting community. Are you ready to join the “in” crowd?

2. Celestron Outland X 10×42

Unlike most binoculars in this price range, you’re getting a lightweight roof prism bino from the Celestron Outland unit. For under 100 bucks, you’ll be set to go without the added weight holding you back.

Pros:

• BaK4 glass
• Waterproof
• Fogproof
• Better quality strap

Cons:

• Multi-coated

I’ve had my hands on the Outland X and they were an extremely convenient pair to have for quick glassing and some occasional birding. It’s light weight at 23.6 oz – not the lightest out there, but still good for today’s standard.

The strap is better quality than what comes with most cheap binoculars – the case is better too. I think its real value will be from its clear glass performance. Though it has only multi-coated lenses versus FMC, it’s not unlike similar alternatives from known manufacturers in this price range.

The entire body is fully protected by a rubber armor, and as is typical with roof prisms, it’s fully waterproof and has been nitrogen-purged. This is a big deal because most budget binoculars will be weather-resistant at best.

If you’re looking for a slimmer binocular versus the bulky builds of the Porros, the Outland is your pick!

3. Bushnell H2O 10X42 Roof

Bushnell knows how to appeal to the cost-conscious buyer. They have a wide inventory of binos priced just right and the H2O is a winning optic among them all.

Pros:

• Eye relief
• Lightweight
• BaK4 glass
• Roof prism
• Waterproof

Cons:

• Multi-coated

For under 100 bucks, having multi-coated optics is the standard. However, this “standard” paired with roof prisms without the addition of phase or prism-specific coatings does result in a slightly darker image than what you’d expect. It may not be as clear a picture compared to a Porro prism bino with multi-coated optics, but on a good day for being outside, you likely won’t notice the difference.

For recreational purposes like observing wildlife while at the lake, casual bird watching, or on a hike, the H2O binos should be just what you need. Because of its roof prism design, it can be made waterproof which it is. It’s also lightweight at 25 ounces that is around the standard for a 10×42 bino these days.

Keep your glasses on with this small pair because it has decent eye relief of 17 mm and twist-up eyecups which is a step up from the fold-up or winged kind often seen in this price range. The compact bino comes with the usual: neck strap, nylon carry case with belt loop, looped rubber lens caps, and a hinged eyepiece cover.

As an entry-level bino that has been bought, used, and put through the ringer by several hundred buyers, it’s a solid buy.

4. Vortex Raptor 8.5×32

You read this right! There’s a Vortex in this price range. It’s no gimmick. The Raptor is a high quality binocular that smokes many other Vortex units when it comes to the ratings.

It’s extremely popular with the masses, and us, for its wide field of view, fully multi-coated lenses, and weatherproof-ability. Even better, it’s more compact and lightweight than its Porro prism bino competitors!

Plus, the warranty on it is practically unbeatable. Technically, this Vortex doesn’t belong in this price range, so if you’re going to spend less than 100 bucks, you better get it while it’s on sale!

5. Bushnell Powerview 10×50

If you’re looking for that Mossy Oak finish that compliments every hunters’ gear, the Powerview 10X50 more than gets the job done.

It’s extremely popular, and it’s been built to impress. With large objectives and the InstaFocus system, you’ll be glassing past sundown.

It’s an impressive, all-purpose binocular that has basic features, but the price can’t be beat for the 10X50 platform with the stylish finish. Thanks to the PowerView, you’ll have max power for max hunting success!

6. Celestron SkyMaster 25X70

For long-distance viewing in the skies or on the ground, you’ll need the long reach of the SkyMaster 25×70 binoculars. With high power and low cost – we’d say Celestron has found the perfect balance in this SkyMaster model.

Pros:

• Price
• High power
• 70 mm aperture
• BaK4 glass
• Porro prism

Cons:

• Short eye relief

A SkyMaster is no small binocular. It has big expectations to fill and so its large frame is a direct reflection of its capabilities. Weighing a heavy 52 ounces and measuring 8.7 x 4.3 x 11 inches in size, this bino is not meant to be handheld by any means. It’s intended to be mounted to a tripod that you’ll have to purchase separately, but it does come with an included tripod adapter that’ll save you a few bucks.

The large objective lenses that are 70 mm in diameter are directly related to the overall weight of the bino. With those large peepers, it’ll allow in as much light as possible to provide a bright, clear picture of celestial bodies or that far-away herd of caribou in the distance.

As a Porro prism bino, it doesn’t need any fancy prism coatings – good thing because it doesn’t have any. All air-to-glass surfaces are multi-coated, it’s water-resistant and not waterproof, and it lacks gas-purged chambers for fog-proof protection – all of which is standard for an optic under 100 bucks.

However, the downer is the short eye relief. For those who don’t wear spectacles or sunglasses while using binoculars, the 13 mm should be fine. For everyone else – it may be uncomfortable to use.

This SkyMaster giant is for adventurers on a budget who enjoy seeing stars or wildlife. It’s not a professional-grade optic, but it is a fun one the entire family can get hours of enjoyment from.

Best Binoculars Under $50

Yes, I have a couple suggestions for this very low price range. You really can’t go cheaper than this if you plan on taking your binoculars seriously. So, here is my recommendation if you have less than $50 to spend.

(By the way, the Bushnell PowerView 10X50 mentioned above is just barely over the $50 price tag. It’s also worth considering if you want a full-size binocular and can stretch your budget by just a few dollars more).

7. Binoteck 10X42 – Best Under $50

The Binoteck 10×42 binoculars are surprisingly very good considering its very low price point. With BaK4 glass, fully multi-coated lenses, and a 305 ft FOV, the Binotecks do ‘cheap’ very, very well.

Pros:

• FMC coatings
• BaK4 glass
• Adjustable eyecups
• Good focusing
• Tripod adaptable

Cons:

• Not waterproof

The Binotecks are water and dust-resistant with an IP55 rating, so heavy rain and even accidental submersion must be avoided – you do not want water in the eyepieces. Yes, I did it and they survived, but do as I say not as I do. Though not fog-proof, they did fantastic with moving from a warm truck to freezing temperatures outside.

I really don’t have any serious complaints about them. I took them on a December elk hunt in mountain timber a couple years ago. To my surprise, they did well for around 20-100 yards. When I had longer glassing terrain, I couldn’t get the sharp resolution I wanted. Though they won’t be going for another hunt, the clarity was beyond what I expected for under $50. Don’t let the digiscoping fool you – the image quality is much better in person.

The Binotecks have adjustable eyecups, a diopter, and a tripod receiver. I don’t think you’ll need to mount it since it’s exceptionally lightweight at 16 oz. I’m accustomed to 10x42s weighing in over 21 oz and I can feel the difference. Though it has a good rubber armor, the weak points are at the objective and eyepiece bells. I suggest resisting the temptation to peel it back.

I’m happy to report that I could acquire collimation (no double vision) with these cheap Binotecks. I adjusted with the diopter for my vision thus avoiding the need to wear my glasses. I’d say the eye relief is around 15mm. With my glasses on, it’s tight – doable but uncomfortable.

Overall, my box only came with the rainguard (eyepiece cap), lens caps, neck strap, and lens cloth. I’ve been impressed enough with the Binotecks to keep and recommend them as a recreational and convenient pair for quick glassing.

Available at: Amazon

8. Tasco Essential 10X25

Spending bare minimum doesn’t mean you have to settle. What it does mean is you can have the Tasco Essentials 10X25 binoculars with the roof prism design, fully multi-coated optics, and a plethora of available color finishes.

They are compact, foldable, and lightweight. Are you landing a quality binocular for a song – oh yeah!

In fact, this Tasco has a surprising number of reviews online, and a very impressive customer satisfaction score considering they will put you back a mere $25. They might not be your lifetime buy, but at this price they will make a great starter binocular.

What to Look for in a Cheap Binocular

Making the most of every penny when you’re spending in this price range comes down to knowing a bit about binoculars. Keep it simple by maintaining your sights on quality glass and durability.

Glass Quality

While you’re not going to get Zeiss or Swarovski glass in this price range, you can still look for the best coatings of what this price category has to offer and that would be fully multi-coated lenses.

Since special coatings for roof prisms are rare on binoculars under $100. You may want to put your money into a Porro prism binocular if you want the best glass performance in this price range. If you don’t mind glassing with something a little bulky and heavy, it’s likely to be your best buy here.

You’ll see a lot of standard configurations, examples: 8×42 and 10×42, in this price range. Going higher in magnification with the glass expected at this price point may result in degraded image quality.

Eye Relief

The eye relief is the distance from your eyes to the eyepiece in which you can acquire a full field of view free of aberrations.

The lower the number, the tighter the eye relief. Physically, this means it brings the lenses closer to your eyes and they can can dig into your brows and the bridge of your nose. The higher the number, the longer and more comfortable it is – especially for those who wear glasses.

*Not disclosed: best guesstimate from personal hands-on experience

Durability

Not all binoculars in this price range will be weatherproof – if it is, excellent! Most will be water-resistant at best, but it’s common sense to avoid heavy rain and submersion with budget binoculars.

The very best in this price range will not only be waterproof but fogproof too. The barrels are purged of oxygen with an inert dry gas like nitrogen. This keeps mold and fungi from growing on the inside and from internal condensation from fogging up the lenses. Body armor will also help your binoculars last longer.

*Water-resistant – not waterproof

Cheap VS Junk: The Difference

There’s a difference to buyer satisfaction when buying low budget binoculars when you’re informed. When you don’t know what to look for, you are at risk of buying junk – plastic lenses and the lot.

Look for the type of glass the prisms have been made with, what level of coatings they have, if they have a wide FOV, are tripod adaptable for mounting, or if they’re water and fogproof. When you know to look for at least a few of these things, you’ll know how to make the most of your hard-earned money.

Not all cheap binoculars are bad. These are the gems that are worth the money!

Further Reading

• Bushnell Fusion 1-Mile ARC Rangefinding Binoculars Review (w/ Angle Compensation)
• Celestron Outland X 10×42 Review – Popular Binoculars (Model 71347)
• Celestron TrailSeeker 8×42 Binocular Review (Model 71404)
• Bushnell Legend 10×25 Ultra HD Binocular Review – With Compact Roof Prism (Model 190125)
• How to Adjust Binoculars: 4 Essential Adjustments to Master Today