So you’re heading out on your big elk hunt and considering which caliber to use. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced hunter, choosing the right one for the job is essential. After all, your success depends on it! To help make this decision easier, we’ve compiled a comprehensive guide outlining some of our favorite — and the best — calibers for elk hunting.

How we determined the best caliber for elk hunting.

There’s not a single rifle cartridge that can be called the “best” for elk hunting. The perfect rifle cartridge for the hunt depends on various factors, including the terrain, the type of game hunting, and personal preference. However, after much research and discussion, we’ve identified a few top categories that stand out from the crowd regarding elk hunting.

• Best caliber overall. This one is a bit of an all-rounder caliber and can be used in various hunting scenarios. We wanted to find an elk cartridge that could cover everything, so we focused on several calibers widely accepted and proven to work well in different scenarios.
• Best caliber for long-range elk hunting. Long-range shooting is a popular way of taking down game from a distance. We had to consider bullet drop, wind drift, and the effective range of the cartridge.
• Best caliber for brush hunting. Brush hunting requires staying essentially relatively close to your prey while stalking them. As such, recoil becomes an important factor when selecting a cartridge. We prioritized calibers offering minimal recoil and fast follow-up shots.
• Best lightweight caliber. One of the most important things to consider when elk hunting is weight. You’ll carry your rifle for extended periods, and a light caliber can make all the difference in how much you enjoy the hunt. We looked at calibers that offered good power without the extra bulk.
• Best caliber for take-down power. If you’re hunting elk, especially in the western states with large herds, you want a caliber that will pack enough punch to take down a big bull. We looked at calibers with proven knockdown power and deep penetration capabilities.

Now that we’ve established what we were looking for in these categories let’s discuss why finding an elk cartridge that is perfect for you is crucial.

The importance of finding the right caliber for your elk hunt.

For elk hunting, accuracy and consistency are king. You need a cartridge to do the job without being overly powerful or cumbersome. An elk cartridge that is too slow will leave you with meat damage, while one that’s too fast can cause excessive recoil and shoot through the animal instead of stopping it in its tracks.

The right caliber for you depends on the type of terrain and game you’re hunting, your budget and preferences, and your shooting skills.

Range.

One of the most critical aspects of elk hunting is the range you will shoot. If you’re hunting in an open field, a long-range cartridge like the .308 Winchester or 6.5 Creedmoor might be your best bet. Not only is the bullet weight important, but you’ll also need to consider an optic for your elk rifle.

Environment.

Another important factor to consider is the environment in which you’ll be hunting. A light caliber might be best if you’re hunting in dense brush or woods since you won’t have to lug around a heavy rifle all day. If you hunt in open country, a heavier caliber will give you more power at longer ranges.

Take-down power.

When it comes to elk hunting, take-down power is key. The right cartridge should offer enough energy to penetrate the animal deeply and cause an instant kill. Bullet construction is also important here; some cartridges are designed with controlled expansion to penetrate deeper without damaging too much meat (this is called a controlled expansion bullet).

Weight.

Finally, you’ll want to consider the overall weight of your rifle. If you carry a gun all day, you’ll want something lightweight but still packs enough punch to finish the job. If you’re patiently waiting in a stand or a blind, a heavier rifle might not be an issue.

Breaking down the best elk cartridge.

With all that out, let’s get into our top picks for the best elk cartridges. We think you’ll find something that fits your hunting needs here.

Best caliber overall — .338 Winchester Magnum.

For the best overall elk cartridge, we selected the .338 Winchester Magnum. This powerful magnum packs a serious punch and can take down large game at long distances. It offers great accuracy and consistency, making it an excellent choice for hunting in open fields and brush. Plus, with its recoil-taming features, the .338 Win Mag is still relatively easy to shoot accurately.

What we love the most about the .338 Winchester Magnum is its versatility. This big-game cartridge is suitable for elk and moose, giving you plenty of options for hunting large game. Whether you’re taking down the biggest bull elk you’ve ever seen or even going deer hunting, the .338 Winchester Magnum is up to the task.

Best caliber for long-range elk hunting — .300 Winchester Magnum.

Easily one of the most popular cartridges for long-range elk hunting, the .300 Winchester Magnum is an ideal choice. This classic magnum cartridge offers power and great accuracy at extended ranges. It’s also relatively easy to control in various shooting positions, making it a top pick for experienced hunters who want to take their shots from a distance.

Its ability to handle strong winds sets the 300 Win Mag apart from other long-range cartridges. It’s high ballistic coefficient and flat trajectory make it an excellent option for hunting in windy conditions. And with its controlled expansion bullets, you can expect deep penetration and minimal meat damage.

Best caliber for brush hunting — .30-06 Springfield.

Sometimes, elk hunting in the brush can be a challenge. You need a powerful cartridge to take down your prey but still lightweight and easy to maneuver in tight quarters. That’s where the .30-06 Springfield comes in. This classic deer and elk cartridge is an excellent choice for brush hunting due to its moderate power and low recoil. Plus, with its flat trajectory and controlled expansion bullets, you can expect good accuracy and deep penetration in tight spots.

Our favorite thing about the .30-06 Springfield is its affordability. The factory ammo offers great performance at a reasonable price, and it’s also widely available and easy to find in most gun shops.

Best lightweight caliber — .270 Winchester.

The .270 Winchester is a great choice for hunters who need a lightweight cartridge with plenty of power. This classic deer and elk cartridge offers moderate recoil and excellent accuracy at extended ranges. It’s also quite versatile, as it can be used for various game animals, including elk and deer.

The thing we love the most about the .270 Winchester is its recoil. Compared to other elk rifles, a rifle chambered in .270 Winchester has mild recoil. Hunters of all experience levels can accurately shoot their target with manageable recoil. And with its excellent accuracy, you can be sure to take down your elk in one shot.

Best caliber for take-down power — 7mm Remington Magnum.

Finally, we have the 7mm Remington Magnum. This popular elk cartridge is known for its unmatched take-down power and flat trajectory, making it an excellent choice for long-range hunting. It has superior ballistics and offers excellent accuracy, allowing you to take down your target precisely.

With the high muzzle velocity of the 7mm Rem Mag, this wouldn’t be a good choice for close-range hunting. But if you’re looking for a cartridge that can easily take down a big bull elk at extended ranges, then the 7mm rem mag is your best bet.

Pro tips for finding the perfect elk hunting rifle.

Finding good elk cartridges is only half the battle; you must also find the perfect elk hunting rifle. Here are some pro tips for finding the right setup:

• Understand Your Hunting Environment: The terrain and environment where you’ll be hunting can significantly impact the type of rifle you need. For instance, a lighter, more maneuverable rifle might be your best bet if you’re hunting in dense forests with shorter sight lines. On the other hand, if you’re hunting in open spaces where longer shots are expected, a heavier, more stable rifle that’s accurate at long distances would be ideal.
• Consider the Caliber: As discussed earlier; some calibers are better suited for elk hunting than others. Powerful rounds like the .338 Win Mag, .270 Winchester, and .300 Winchester Magnum are all good choices. Consider what you feel comfortable shooting and what will effectively take down an elk.
• Choose the Right Action: Bolt action rifles are popular among elk hunters because they’re reliable, accurate, and can handle powerful rounds. However, lever action and semi-automatic rifles can also be suitable, especially if you anticipate needing quick follow-up shots.
• Check the Weight: Remember that you’ll likely carry your rifle for a long while hunting. Balance the need for a powerful, stable gun with the practicality of hauling it around all day. Lightweight rifles are easier to carry but might have more recoil.
• Look for Quality Optics: A good scope can make a huge difference in successful elk hunting. Look for optics with clear, bright images and a good magnification range. A quality scope can help you make accurate shots at various distances.

Our hunting experts have bought countless rifles over the years and agree that following these tips can help you pick the perfect elk hunting rifle. You’ll be ready to hit the woods and bag your next big bull with the right setup.

FAQs for elk hunting Calibers.

To round off our comprehensive guide to elk hunting calibers, here are some frequently asked questions—

What is the best caliber for elk hunting?

The best elk hunting calibers depend on your hunting style and environment, but some of the most popular options include .300 Winchester Magnum, .30-06 Springfield, .270 Winchester, and 7mm Remington Magnum. These are all great choices for taking down an elk at extended ranges.

What is the most accurate caliber for elk hunting?

The .300 Winchester Magnum is widely considered one of the most accurate cartridges for elk hunting due to its flat trajectory and high ballistic coefficient. It’s also a powerful round that can effectively take down large game animals.

How far can you accurately shoot an elk?

The effective range for taking down an elk will vary depending on the caliber, shooter experience, and environmental conditions. As a general rule of thumb, most elk hunters should have no problem making accurate shots out to 500 yards with the right rifle and optics. Of course, it’s always best to practice shooting at various distances to develop good shooting habits and accuracy.

Is a .308 big enough for elk?

A .308 Winchester is generally considered big enough for elk hunting. The rule of thumb for the minimum amount of kinetic energy needed to kill a mature elk is 1500 ft-lbs, which a .308 can deliver. However, it’s important to consider shot placement and the hunter’s ability to shoot accurately.

Is 6.5 Creedmoor or 308 better for elk?

The debate between 6.5 Creedmoor and .308 Winchester for elk hunting is a topic of much discussion among hunters. Both bullet weights have strengths and weaknesses, and their choice largely depends on your needs and circumstances. The 6.5 Creedmoor has a slightly flatter trajectory, less wind drift, and less recoil than the .308 Winchester, making it easier to shoot accurately, particularly at longer ranges. However, it’s worth noting that some hunters consider the 6.5 Creedmoor too light for elk, with most suggesting a minimum of 1,500 ft-lbs of energy for a clean kill. On the other hand, the .308 Winchester is known for its superior frontal surface area and wound channel creation, which can lead to more effective kills. Its ammunition is also more widely available and typically cheaper, making it a more economical choice for many hunters.

What is the preferred rifle shot for elk?

The preferred shot on an elk is a broadside shot. This shot placement affords the best chance of striking the animal’s vital organs while still allowing for maximum penetration. Ideally, you should aim for the highest point of the shoulder to ensure a clean kill.

Can you shoot a bedded elk?

Yes, you can shoot a bedded elk, but it is important to ensure an ethical shot. This means considering the wind direction, background noise, and the animal’s position. If you doubt whether your shot will be ethical, it’s best to wait until the elk stands before taking the shot.

What is the best follow-up shot for elk?

The best follow-up shot for an elk depends on the initial hit placement and the circumstances of your hunt. If you’ve made a clean kill, there’s no need to take additional shots. However, if you haven’t achieved a clean kill with your initial shot, you’ll want to take another shot as soon as possible. A quick follow-up shot can help ensure the animal is taken down humanely and quickly.

Finding the right caliber.

The quest for the perfect elk hunting rifle and caliber is a personal journey heavily influenced by your unique hunting style, environment, and comfort level.

Whether it’s the .338 Win Mag with its sheer stopping power, the .30-06 Springfield’s brush hunting prowess, the .270 Winchester’s light recoil, or the 7mm Remington Magnum’s exceptional take-down ability, each caliber offers unique advantages.

Remember, a critical part of your success in the field is not just the rifle and its caliber but also understanding your hunting environment, the rifle’s action type, weight, and optics quality. And never underestimate the power of trying before buying.

Armed with these insights, you’re on your way to finding the perfect partner for your next elk-hunting adventure.

I see the debate of how far out to put the target almost every time I go to a range during public hours.

Put it too close and it doesn’t look very “cool.” Put it too far and it would be embarrassing to miss.

Should I put it at 21 feet because of the “21-foot rule?” Should I put it at 11 feet since half of law enforcement fatalities happen within 11 feet?

Should I put it at nine feet since an “average” self-defense encounter happens within three yards, lasts three seconds, and three rounds are fired?

The answer is a little simpler and a little more flexible than you may think.

There are a couple of distances that are important.

The first distance is six to 10 feet.

Six feet is about as close as you can get to a hanging paper target without the muzzle blast from normal self-defense rounds moving the paper too much. Six to 10 feet is close enough that any gun/ammo combination can shoot 1” or better groups.

Drilling holes flat footed at the six- to 10-foot range is an indication that you can align the muzzle properly and press the trigger without disturbing muzzle alignment.

Any flyers or problems that show up here will be magnified with distance, stress, speed, and movement.

Grip, stance, breathing, and follow-through all help, but muzzle alignment and trigger press are the only two things that are vital.

This seems like it should be simple, but what I’ve found over time is that only about 10% of shooters who carry regularly…including military, law enforcement, competition, and concealed carry permit holders…can actually shoot a five-round 1” group at 6-10 feet with perfect lighting and no time constraints.

If you’re in the 90% who throw an occasional shot at six to 10 feet, it means is that you’ve got some of what I call “low-hanging opportunities for improvement” that will be magnified with speed, distance, movement and stress. Work that you do here gets incredibly high leverage results and will impact all shooting that you do, regardless of the gun, distance, or speed.

Once you’re drilling holes at six to 10 feet…then what?

It depends on what phase of learning you’re in; whether you’re building a basic skill or trying to make it resilient.

If you’re trying to build skill, you want to aim for a distance where you’ve got a 75 to 90% success rate, regardless of the size of the target, speed of shooting, stress level, or speed of movement.

That may be slow fire at five, 25, 50, or even 100 yards, rapid fire, shooting while moving, or whatever combination of speed, accuracy, stress, and movement that puts you in that 75 to 90% success range.

That means that you’re hitting your intended target seven to nine times out of 10 and the misses tell you where the edge of your performance envelope is.

At first, you want to focus on perfection and a 99 to 100% success rate, but once you’re dialed in, you want to start expanding your performance envelope.

For IDPA, “success” might be -0 hits. For USPSA, it might be A-zone.

But, depending on what you’re doing, you might need/want to relax your definition of success. As an example, if you’re shooting at 50 yards, shooting fast, or training for self-defense while moving laterally off-the-x, you might call success anything in the -1 or B zone (reduced silhouette), or it might be any hit on target.

But the goal should always be to make precise hits faster, fast strings of fire more accurate, and do it under more and more challenging conditions.

The way you want to structure your practice is to start with drills where you’re shooting at a 99 to 100% success rate, push conditions until you’re at 75 to 90%, and then end with 99 to 100% again.

I like to think of it as a sandwich.

Start with a sure thing, push it, and then end with a sure thing.

As we cover in Praxis, this will optimize learning speed and give you the most bang-for-the-buck for your training time and training dollars.

If you’ve got the skill built and you’re working on making it resilient to stress…by whatever means of stress inoculation you happen to be using…then you might want to push things to the point where you’re only succeeding 25% of the time…but you still want to dial stuff back to where you know your performance envelope where you can succeed 75 to 90% of the time and end with a win.

How’s this play out at the range?

Start with a few rounds at six to 10 feet with sterile conditions, push time, distance, speed, movement and stress until you’re in the 75 to 90% success range, and then end with a few reps at six to 10 feet again.

As you see, no matter how fast and cool or how tactical you want to be, it all comes back to a solid foundation of the fundamentals…muzzle alignment and trigger press.

Get those down as a solid foundation and the sky is the limit.

Skip over them in an attempt to get to the “cool” stuff quicker and it’s like driving a sports car with the parking brake on and a clogged air filter…it’s simply impossible to shoot up to your potential. And that’s why shooters at all levels…from new shooters to guys retiring from tier I and special mission units go through our training and report dramatic improvements in performance.

Owning a capybara is often an extremely complicated process, as is the case with any exotic animal. In addition to the costs of purchase, the license costs and maintenance costs will be high. Licensing can be procured through Fish and Wildlife departments in the state, and some states have a third-party processor that deals with the permitting of possession of wild animals. Here, owners can get the information they need to purchase and keep a capybara safe at home.

The capybara can grow to become as large as 140 pounds and will need a diet that can sustain that weight and those nutritional needs. That is a diet that is typically very high in protein. Capybaras can eat much of the same meat that humans do.

These are animals that require water and land to thrive. Many will need a water component to live in or use it for swimming and submerging on occasion. A capybara can not tolerate the chemicals in a chlorinated pool but can enjoy saltwater pools. They can swim for hours at a time and stay submerged for up to five minutes.

These animals have uniquely webbed feet and eyes, and this helps them to swim and survive. Their nostrils are also uniquely shaped, and all of these features are to help them survive in wetlands.

States Where Owning Capybaras Is Illegal

Even though capybaras are technically legal in each state that is NOT listed below, the permitting process can be so extensive and complicated that it basically becomes illegal. The states below are those that have gone so far as to make any sort of possession illegal or have given themselves the complete authority to decide it is illegal on a case-by-case basis.

Alaska

The Alaskan Department of Fish & Game released a “Clean List” with every approved species that can enter the state and be owned. Any species not named there “may not be imported into Alaska or possessed as a pet or livestock in Alaska, and the Department of Fish and Game cannot issue a permit allowing its importation or possession.”

California

California doesn’t allow any non-native wild animal to be a pet unless otherwise instructed by the Department of Fish and Wildlife. Capybaras, and even gerbils, don’t fall into that category.

Colorado

The only wild, exotic animals you can own are those deemed safe by the Division of Wildlife. Capybaras are not included on that list, therefore, are prohibited from possessing in the state of Colorado.

Connecticut

The state of Connecticut breaks wildlife up into four categories and bans the import and possession of all of them. In regards to capybaras, the second category includes all rodents and excludes those the state deems acceptable to keep as pets.

Georgia

The Georgia Department of Natural Resources explicitly lists capybara within the rodent group as an exotic species that “may not be held as pets in Georgia.”

Illinois

There is a clause in the legislature of Illinois that gives the Department of Natural Resources the power to “prohibit or limit the importation, possession, release into the wild, take, commercialization of take, sale, and propagation of wild mammals, wild birds, and feral livestock that are not defined as protected species in Section 2.2 of this Act, to reduce risks of communicable diseases, nuisances, and damages to wild or domestic species, agricultural crops, property, and environment.” This means that it is almost impossible to own a capybara in the state of Illinois privately.

Massachusetts

In Massachusetts, regulating code 9.01 states that permits are required for possession of any non-domesticated, wild animals and these permits are never given for animals intended to be pets, essentially making it illegal to have a pet capybara.

New York

New York City has a division called the Department of Health and Mental Hygiene (DOHMH) that issues violations for those who sell or keep wild/illegal animals as pets. They even have a portal that the Department uses to collect such reports. New York state also has bans on the possession, transportation, and keeping of any wild species.

Oregon

The state of Oregon specifically notes capybaras as being animals that are prohibited from being kept within the state. Capybaras can be found on the “Prohibited Species” list.

Vermont

Permits are required to keep any kind of wild animal in the state of Vermont, but unless you are a “bona fide scientific or educational” facility, the Commissioner does not provide permits to keep or possess any wild animal. Statute 5, section 2, clearly states this ruling.

What’s the difference between first focal plane vs second focal plane?

A first focal plane reticle enlarges and shrinks as you adjust the magnification while the second focal plane remains the same size.

Why does that matter and which focal plane scope should you choose?

By the end of this article, you’ll fully understand both types of focal planes so you can choose the best rifle scope for your needs.

Let’s get started!

What is the First Focal Plane?

There are two locations where a reticle can be installed within a rifle scope: the first focal plane (FFP) or the second focal plane (SFP).

With a first focal plane scope, the reticle is physically placed on the “front” of the erector tube assembly and magnification lenses. The first focal plane is furthest from your eye when looking down the sight.

How does that make a difference?

With a First Focal Plane scope, the size of the reticle will appear to grow or shrink as the scope’s magnification is increased or decreased, respectively.

Now that you’ve got the basics, let’s talk about the pros and cons…

First Focal Plane: Pros and Cons

With the first focal plane optics, the reticle size is going to scale up or down with your magnification adjustments.

This means your trajectory markings, or holdover values, are going to remain accurate regardless of what magnification setting you’re on. This is great news if you hate doing math!

But, it comes at a cost…Literally.

The price is often higher by virtue of its more complicated construction. A first focal plane reticle is also typically associated with higher-end scopes.

With first focal plane scopes, the reticle will look small and thin with less power while the reticle will be thicker at higher power.

It can be easy to lose those thin reticle lines, especially against dark backgrounds. Although, some of the best Leupold riflescopes have illuminated reticles for better visibility.

Also, the reticle can cover too much target at the highest setting. If this is a dealbreaker to you, that’s where Second Focal Plane comes into play…

What is the Second Focal Plane?

The most common design is SFP, or a Second Focal Plane scope. It’s also referred to as Rear Focal Plane.

With a second focal plane scope, the reticle is placed behind the magnification lenses on the erector tube assembly.

The second focal plane scope is closer to your eye. Therefore, the reticle stays the same size at any magnification range.

Now, let’s talk about the pros and cons of this…

Second Focal Plane: Pros and Cons

Its lightweight, great resolution, and durability against heavy cartridges make it a popular choice among hunters and law enforcement.

With the second focal plane, your units of measure per each hash mark (MOA or MRAD) represent the same value regardless of your magnification setting.

However, the spacing for holdover in the reticle is only correct at the highest magnification setting. So, it’s not always reliable for variable long-range shooting.

For example:

Let’s look at the Viper HST 4-16×44. This is a second focal plane scope with a magnification range of 4-16x. The Viper HST has hash marks representing 1 MOA but this is only true at its full magnification: 16x.

Of course, you can always do the math in between. But it becomes complicated and confusing and we all know that’s no bueno.

Second focal plane scopes are more commonly seen in the average riflescope and they’re easier to manufacture. That’s why they’re typically less expensive.

First Focal Plane vs. Second Focal Plane for close-range shooting

A second focal plane scope is more suited for close-range hunting and defensive shooting.

Why?

Because you have a strong and easy-to-see reticle even at the lowest magnification. With low-powered optics, like 1-4X optics, this is a highly undervalued feature.

When it comes to a First Focal Plane scope, you can easily lose sight of your marks at low power. This can be a hassle when you need to make adjustments for the wind or distance— especially for older eyes.

Since you’d have to zoom out to get the rest of the marks in the scope’s view, your target shrinks relative to your view. If you’re hunting small game, this can be an inconvenience.

First Focal Plane vs. Second Focal Plane for long-range shooting

First focal plane scopes are best for competitive and long-range precision shooting.

The hash marks represent the same value across all magnification levels. It allows you to use and trust those holdovers at any given point in your magnification.

This is an advantage for spotting impacts and misses for corrections. It’s also very helpful if you need rapid and precise follow-up shots.

Hitting something at longer ranges means getting as much precision as possible. With a second focal plane scope, making those fractional MOA adjustments becomes far more difficult.

Conclusion

The truth is— it’s a matter of preference and intended use. There is no “better” between the two focal planes.

Higher magnification ranges are better in a first focal plane scope. Lower magnification is fine for second focal plane scopes.

If you’re into precision shooting, especially in matches, and you don’t mind the cost: a first focal plane riflescope is great to have.

If you won’t be taking many shots where you need to “hold” for windage or elevation, a second focal plane scope is more than enough. Plus, it won’t necessarily break the bank.

There are other things you need to consider before buying an optic— like choosing the best quick detach scope mounts. At least when it comes to a SFP scope vs a FFP scope, you won’t be scratching your head anymore.

Since we’re on the topic of upgrades, my AR-15 A2 front sight removal guide is up. Go check it out!

For those unfamiliar with the world of collecting, it may be surprising to discover that anything can become a valuable collectible.

Value is ultimately determined by the demand for an item among collectors. Hence, regardless of an item’s intrinsic value, if that particular item is rare, unique, or holds sentimental or historical significance, it can become highly desirable among collectors, driving up its market value. This is the case with rare antique fishing lures.

Editor’s Note

Additionally, cultural trends and shifts in popular taste can also contribute to the value of collectibles. For example, a particular type of vintage clothing may suddenly become popular among a new generation of consumers, increasing its value among collectors.

As long as there is collector demand for a particular item, it has the potential to become a valuable collectible.

Rare antique fishing lures are vintage fishing lures that were produced in limited quantities, have unique features or designs, and are highly sought after by collectors.

These lures were often handcrafted by individual artisans or small companies and are now considered to be valuable collectibles due to their rarity, historical significance, and aesthetic appeal.

Some of the most valuable antique fishing lures were produced in the late 19th and early 20th centuries by companies such as Heddon, Pflueger, and Creek Chub. These lures were often made from wood, metal, or early plastics and were designed to mimic the movement and appearance of live bait.

One reason why rare antique fishing lures are valuable is that they are highly collectible among fishing enthusiasts and antique collectors.

In addition, many of these lures are considered to be works of art, with intricate designs and details that make them highly sought after by collectors.

Another reason why rare antique fishing lures are valuable is that they are often associated with important historical events or figures. For example, some antique fishing lures were used by famous anglers or were produced during important periods in fishing history.

In this article, we take a look at some of the most valuable antique fishing lures from the rich history of fishing tool development.

History of Rare Antique Fishing Lures

Fishing lures have been used for thousands of years as a way to attract fish.

Early fishing lures were often made of natural materials such as feathers, animal fur, and bone and were designed to mimic the appearance and movement of live bait.

Editor’s Note: What are Fishing Lures?

Fishing lures are artificial baits or imitations of natural prey that are used to attract fish. They are typically made of various materials, such as plastic, metal, wood, or feathers, and are designed to mimic the appearance, movement, and scent of live bait.

Fishing lures come in a wide variety of shapes, sizes, colors, and styles and are often explicitly designed to target specific species of fish or fishing conditions. Common types of fishing lures include spinners, jigs, spoons, plugs, and soft plastic baits.

The lures are attached to the end of fishing lines and are cast out into the water to attract fish.

When a fish strikes the lure, the angler feels a tug on the line and can then reel in the fish. Fishing lures can be used in a variety of fishing techniques, including freshwater, saltwater, fly fishing, and ice fishing.

In the 19th century, the development of industrial manufacturing techniques led to the mass production of fishing lures made from materials such as metal, wood, and early plastics. Many of these early lures were simple designs, such as metal spoons and spinners, that were effective at attracting fish.

By the early 20th century, the development of new materials and manufacturing techniques led to the production of more complex and realistic fishing lures.

Companies such as Heddon, Creek Chub, and Pflueger began producing lures with intricate designs and details, such as the Creek Chub Pikie and the Heddon Frog, which are now highly collectible antique fishing lures.

During this time, fishing also became an increasingly popular recreational activity, and the demand for high-quality fishing lures grew. As a result, many small-scale artisanal lure makers also began producing handmade lures, many of which are now highly sought after by collectors.

In the mid-20th century, the introduction of new materials such as silicone and rubber led to the development of soft plastic baits, which revolutionized the fishing industry. Soft plastics allowed anglers to create lifelike imitations of natural prey, and quickly became a popular and effective way to catch fish.

Today, fishing lures continue to evolve and improve, with new materials and designs constantly being developed.

However, antique fishing lures remain highly collectible and sought after by collectors and anglers alike and are considered an essential part of fishing history.

Some antique fishing lures have sold for thousands or even tens of thousands of dollars at auction, making them some of the most valuable collectibles in the fishing industry.

World’s Most Valuable Fishing Lure: Giant Haskell Minnow

Finalized Auction Price: $101,200

No discussion of the most valuable rare antique fishing lures can be completed without a mention of this giant copper Haskell Minnow which currently holds the record of the most expensive fishing lure in the world to ever be sold.

The Haskell series is a small line of antique lures created in the late 19th century by Riley Haskell, a jeweler from Painesville, Ohio, that represents some of the most iconic and highly sought-after antique fishing lures in the world.

Editor’s Note

Riley Haskell was a highly skilled gunsmith who lived in Painesville, Ohio, in the mid-19th century. He was known for his finely crafted guns, which were highly sought-after by sportsmen and collectors alike.

However, Haskell had another passion besides gun making: fishing. He loved nothing more than spending time on the water, casting his line, and trying to catch the biggest fish he could find. And as with his guns, he wanted his fishing gear to be of the highest quality.

So, Haskell decided to try his hand at making fishing lures. He began experimenting with different materials and designs, trying to create lures that would mimic the appearance and movement of live fish. He quickly discovered that his expertise in metalworking could be applied to lure-making as well, and he began producing highly detailed and realistic lures made from copper and brass.

Haskell’s lures were quickly recognized for their quality and effectiveness. They were highly sought-after by fishermen, and Haskell soon found himself making lures full-time.

One of Haskell’s most famous creations was the Haskell Minnow, a fish-shaped lure with a hollow body and finely sculpted details. The lure was designed to mimic the movements of a live minnow, and it quickly became a favorite among anglers.

Haskell continued to make fishing lures for many years, even as his gun business thrived. He remained passionate about fishing and always strove to improve his lure designs.

However, Haskell’s fishing lures were never produced in large quantities and were only sold for a short period of time, making them extremely rare and valuable antique fishing lures. Haskell’s focus was primarily on producing high-quality lures rather than mass production, and as a result, only a limited number of his lures were ever made.

It is believed that Haskell produced only a few thousand of these lures during his lifetime. Many were likely lost or destroyed over time, and only a small number of examples have survived to the present day. Of these surviving examples, most are in the hands of private collectors or museums, making them even more difficult to come by.

Furthermore, due to the fact that many of these lures were used for fishing, few of them have survived to this day. Those that have survived are highly prized by collectors and are often worth a significant amount of money.

Today, Riley Haskell is remembered as one of the pioneers of the modern fishing lure industry.

His lures are highly collectible and are prized by anglers and collectors around the world. Haskell’s legacy lives on, and his influence can be seen in the countless fishing lures that are still being produced today.

Today, this giant bronze-colored lure, a Haskell Minnow, is regarded as the crowning piece of them all after setting the all-time record for a fishing lure sold through public auction, in 2003, when it was purchased for $101,200 by an anonymous bidder.

The lure had been part of a private collection for many years before being put up for auction, and its sale generated widespread excitement among collectors and fishing enthusiasts.

The Haskell Minnow’s record-breaking sale price was a testament to its rarity and historical significance, as well as its appeal as a work of art. Today, the Haskell Minnow remains one of the most coveted antique fishing lures in the world, and its sale continues to be a benchmark for the value of rare and collectible fishing lures.

The Haskell Minnow was designed to mimic the appearance and movement of a live minnow, with a jointed body that allowed it to move realistically through the water. The lure was also hand-painted with intricate details, including scales, fins, and eyes, which made it highly attractive to fish.

Measuring at a length of 10 inches, the “Giant Haskell” is indeed a rarity among Haskell Minnows. This particular lure is nearly double the size of all other known Haskell Minnows, which are already highly sought-after and collectible among fishing enthusiasts and collectors alike.

The giant Haskell is made of thick sheets of copper and brass and features a hollow body with finely sculpted details.

The lure is fish-shaped, with textured scales and a pair of tandem angular hooks that extend from the revolving tail section and curve upward. It is believed that Haskell created this particular lure for trolling or casting, and it was intended to lure in larger fish such as bass, pike, and musky.

Although this giant Haskell minnow is incredibly rare, it is not the only oversized Haskell Minnow to have been discovered. Other examples have been found that measure up to 8 inches in length, which is still significantly larger than most other Haskell Minnows.

These larger lures are even more highly prized by collectors than the smaller-sized options due to their rarity and the skill required to create them.

Most Valuable Rare Antique Fishing Lures

Aside from the Giant Haskell, there are several other antique fishing lures that are highly valued by collectors and fishing enthusiasts everywhere. Some of the most valuable and sought-after antique fishing lures include:

Editor’s Note

The specimens we have highlighted in this list are from the records of auctions carried out by Lang’s Auction House, the world’s leading fishing tackle auction service. Lang’s first auction debuted in 1991 with the distinction of being the only auction house dedicated solely to the field of antique and collectible fishing tackle.

Since its inception in 1991, Lang’s, Inc. has become a premier auction house in the field of antique and collectible fishing tackle. Its founder Bob Lang’s vision for a specialized auction house dedicated to this niche market proved successful, and his legacy continues today under the leadership of John Ganung, who purchased the company in 2002.

Under Ganung’s stewardship, Lang’s has expanded to include three selling venues and has attracted collectors from around the globe. Lang’s has also achieved numerous world record auction prices for antique and collectible tackle, as well as for Derrydale Press books and items related to the famed author Zane Grey.

What started as a humble venture has now become a go-to destination for collectors and enthusiasts alike, offering comprehensive services for consignors and buyers at every level.

Lang’s, Inc. remains committed to its founding principles of expertise, integrity, and exceptional service, making it a trusted leader in the field of antique and collectible fishing tackle.

Unidentified Prehistoric American Wooden Minnow

Finalized Auction Price: $42,560

In the world of fishing lure collecting, there are few things more exciting than discovering a previously unknown piece of angling history. And that is exactly what happened when an unidentified wooden minnow went up for auction in 2006, selling for an incredible $42,560.

Considered the “single most historic and important wooden minnow to ever come to auction,” this lure is believed to be a predecessor of all American wooden underwater lures.

The piece was found in the tackle box of an Ohio angler, Hiram Rice, who lived in an area famous for early fishing lure makers like Pflueger and Pardee.

Despite not being able to trace the manufacture of this rare and possibly one-of-a-kind lure, historians note that it is practically identical to early Trory minnows. This particular lure is described as being in very good condition despite dating from the late 1890s.

The lure’s design is a testament to the craftsmanship and innovation of early fishing lure makers in America. It is believed to be the earliest example of an American wooden underwater minnow, which makes it a true piece of angling history.

The lure’s value is not just in its historical significance but also in its rarity and beauty. The fact that it was found in the tackle box of Hiram Rice, alongside an assortment of antique fishing tackle, only adds to its allure.

This mysterious and unidentified wooden minnow remains a highly sought-after item among antique fishing lure collectors, and its sale in 2006 set a new record for the most expensive fishing lure sold at a public auction at the time.

Chautauqua Minnow

Finalized Auction Price: $37,400

The Chautauqua Minnow, created by Krantz & Smith of New York in 1908, had a rocky start in the fishing lure market.

Anglers quickly discovered that the lure was not very effective at catching fish, and as a result, the demand for it was low. Production was eventually cut off shortly after the first few Chautauqua Minnows were made, making them exceptionally rare for collectors.

Despite the initial failure of the lure, some recognized its potential value as a line with an extremely limited supply and saved at least this one specimen from being thrown away. This particular Chautauqua Minnow was later discovered and sold for an impressive $37,400, demonstrating the incredible value of extremely rare antique fishing lures.

Collectors prize the Chautauqua Minnow not only for its rarity but also for its unique design. The lure features a unique curved, wooden body with a metal lip that creates a wobbling action when retrieved. It also has two treble hooks attached to the bottom of the body, making it suitable for both trolling and casting.

The Chautauqua Minnow may not have been successful in its time, but its rarity and design have made it a valuable piece of fishing history. It serves as a reminder that even failed products can become extremely valuable collectibles when paired with the right demand.

Rare Musky Haskell Minnow

Finalized Auction Price: $32,000

The Haskell Minnow is a highly sought-after antique fishing lure known for its intricate design and craftsmanship. But among the many variations of the Haskell Minnow available today, this Rare Dark Haskell Musky Minnow stands out as a true gem of early American craftsmanship.

Measuring 7 1/2 inches in overall length, the Rare Minnow is finely crafted down to the smallest details, from its textured scales to its finely sculpted fins.

This lure is a testament to the skill and artistry of Riley Haskell, a highly skilled gunsmith who decided to try his hand at making fishing lures in the mid-19th century.

Patented on September 20, 1859, the Rare Dark Haskell Musky Minnow is a prime example of the early American fishing lures that are highly prized by collectors today. Despite its age, this lure remains in excellent condition, a testament to the care with which it was made and the care with which it has been preserved over the years.

In 2007, this specimen went up for auction and sold for over $32,000, unsurprising, considering its rarity and the high demand among collectors for early American fishing lures.

It is not surprising that the Haskell Minnows are considered to be some of the most desirable lures in the world, given their intricate design and the limited numbers in which they were produced.

Musky Charmer Minnow

Finalized Auction Price: $25,000

The world of antique fishing lures is full of surprises, and the Musky Charmer Minnow is no exception. This unique and rare fishing lure is highly sought after by collectors due to its impressive design and rarity.

The Musky Charmer Minnow was produced by the Charmer Minnow Company, which was known for creating high-quality fishing lures in the early 20th century. However, the Musky Charmer Minnow stands out from the rest due to its larger size and distinctive design.

Measuring just over 5 inches in length, the Musky Charmer Minnow is considered the rarest of all the Charmers. What sets this lure apart from the others is its striped tail, which is unlike any other design from the Charmer Minnow Company.

It’s believed that only a few Musky-sized Charmers still exist today, making this one of the most valuable and highly sought-after lures in the world of antique fishing tackle.

In 2018, an excellent-condition Musky Charmer Minnow was sold at auction for just over $25,000, making it one of the most expensive fishing lures ever sold. This high price tag is a testament to the lure’s rarity and desirability among collectors.

For serious antique fishing lure collectors, the Musky Charmer Minnow is a must-have addition to any collection. Its unique design and rarity make it a true treasure for those who appreciate the artistry and history of vintage fishing tackle.

Shakespeare Muskellunge Minnow

Finalized Auction Price: $23,100

The Shakespeare Muskellunge Minnow, sold at auction for a whopping $23,100, is a testament to the innovative mind of William Shakespeare, Jr. As the son of a banker, Shakespeare had a passion for fishing and sought to create the perfect lure. His “Revolution” lure, introduced in the late 1890s, was a game-changer for the industry.

Equipped with three treble hooks and a propeller, the “Revolution” was one of the earliest wooden baits sold in the United States.

Over the years, Shakespeare continued to refine and improve his lures, producing several new successor variants to the Revolution, including the Muskellunge Minnow, which is now one of the most valuable in existence.

What makes this particular lure so valuable is its pristine condition. It has been carefully preserved over the years, with every detail of its construction still intact. The attention to detail and quality of materials used in its creation is a testament to Shakespeare’s commitment to excellence.

The Shakespeare Muskellunge Minnow was estimated to sell for $5,500, but auctioneers were surprised when it sold for more than four times that amount. Its high value is a testament to its rarity, as well as the skill and craftsmanship that went into its creation.

For collectors and fishing enthusiasts, the Shakespeare Muskellunge Minnow is a piece of history representing the early days of lure-making in America. Its value is not just in its price tag but in the legacy that it represents.

Heddon Dowagiac Expert

Finalized Auction Price: $19,000

The story of the Heddon Dowagiac Expert is one of perseverance and ingenuity. James Heddon, a beekeeper, and newspaperman from Michigan, revolutionized the fishing industry with his creation of the Dowagiac Casting Bait in the early 1900s. The lure was named after the town where Heddon worked, Dowagiac, and was later shortened to the Dowagiac Expert.

This lure was originally marketed as the Dowagiac Casting Bait in the early 1900s. Over time, Heddon shortened its name to the “Dowagiac Expert,” and it quickly became a favorite among anglers.

Despite being a game-changing invention, few copies of the Dowagiac Expert survived to this day, and even fewer are in good condition. It is a testament to its popularity and rarity that the white cardboard box it came in can sell for as much as $1,000 without the lure itself.

Measuring almost 6 inches long with large glass eyes, a front spinner, and an intact tail, this wooden beauty is a stunning example of the Dowagiac Expert in its natural scale finish. Produced by Heddon himself out of Dowagiac, Michigan, it is likely the best-known example of the very few of its kind.

Heddon Mohawk Minnow

Finalized Auction Price: $18,400

The world of antique and collectible fishing tackle is full of rare and valuable items, and the Heddon Mohawk Minnow is definitely one of them.

This beautiful lure, believed to have been made around 1905, is the only known example of its kind to come with a matching wooden box from the Mohawk, Florida, Heddon location. It is in spectacular condition, and the box is also in fine shape.

What makes this particular lure so special, however, is the complete paperwork that comes with it. This documentation helps to date and confirm the significance of the find, adding to its historical and collectible value. When this lure went up for auction in 2013, it fetched an impressive $18,400, a testament to its rarity and desirability among collectors.

The Heddon Company has a long history of producing quality fishing lures, and the Jeanette Hawley “Mohawk” Minnow is no exception.

With its intricate design and attention to detail, it’s easy to see why this lure is so sought after by collectors. Whether you’re a seasoned angler or a passionate collector, the Heddon Jeanette Hawley “Mohawk” Minnow is a true treasure from fishing world history.

Little Wonder Minnow

Finalized Auction Price: $18,000

The Little Wonder Minnow in Box is a true rarity among fishing lure collectors.

Produced by the Clinton Wilt Manufacturing Company in Springfield, Missouri, this lure and box combination dates back to 1910 and is the only known example of a complete two-piece cardboard box for this lure to exist.

With this specimen, the lure itself is in excellent condition, and the box is also in great shape, which is unusual for an item of this age. Consequently, for a Missouri lure collector, this piece is a must-have, as it is a one-of-a-kind specimen that represents a significant part of the state’s fishing lure history.

At a 2019 auction, this Little Wonder Minnow in Box fetched an impressive price of over $18,000, which is a testament to its rarity and the value that collectors place on such unique and historically significant pieces.

For collectors, it is not just about the lure itself but also the story and history behind it, making this Little Wonder Minnow in Box a true treasure for any serious fishing lure collector.

The Clinton Wilt Manufacturing Company was a fishing lure manufacturer based in Springfield, Missouri, that was in operation in the early 1900s and was one of the more prominent names in the state at that time.

The company was founded by Clinton Wilt, who started out making lures as a hobby before turning it into a full-fledged business. Wilt was known for his attention to detail and his use of high-quality materials in his lures, which quickly earned him a reputation as a skilled craftsman.

The Little Wonder Minnow, which was first introduced in 1909, is one of the most famous lures produced by the Clinton Wilt Manufacturing Company.

This small, slender lure was designed to imitate the movement of a live minnow in the water and quickly became a favorite of anglers in the region. It was made from high-quality wood and featured a painted finish that was both durable and attractive.

In addition to the Little Wonder Minnow, the Clinton Wilt Manufacturing Company produced a variety of other lures, including the Wilt’s Economy Minnow, the Springfield Bait Company Minnow, and the Clinton Wilt Weedless Minnow. Although the company was relatively small, it quickly gained a loyal following among anglers who appreciated the quality and craftsmanship of its products.

Tooth of the Arrow broadheads have been around for while, but I was intrigued and finally got my hands one so I could test it.

Now, Tooth of the Arrow is certainly a cool name for a broadhead, but the company also has a great perk. They are so confident that you’ll like their broadheads, that they advertise that you can get a free sample.

Now that’s guaranteed satisfaction!

You can jump straight to the testing of the Tooth Of The Arrow heads by clicking the links below:

• Tooth Of The Arrow Vented
• Tooth Of The Arrow Solids

Tooth Of The Arrow Broadheads | An Overview

The Tooth of the Arrow broadhead is a 4-blade head that is similar to a Slick Trick head.

Each of the blades are exactly the same cutting diameter, so it’s a true 4-blade head. It’s a little bit bigger than a Slick Trick Magnum. But, rather than being 1 and 1/8-inch cutting diameter like the Slick Trick Magnum, this is 1 and 3/16 cutting diameter. So, it makes a little bit wider hole.

For the testing, I shot 450-grain Bishop mammoth arrows, using my Bowtech SR6 which is a 27 inches and 72 pounds.

What makes this head unique is that this is machined out of a single chunk of high-carbon steel. So, there are no blades to be replaced. It’s just one solid chunk.

So, as a negative, you can’t just replace the blades and put in new sharp ones. As a positive way, it’s a pretty stout, strong design. And, with it being such high-carbon steel, it’s not too difficult to sharpen. So, it’s intriguing to see this.

I’ve spun these heads and they spin very true. They also fly well for me. I’ve not tested them at super long ranges but they do – well, I think through a well-tuned bow, they should fly well at longer ranges.

I’d heard really good things about the smaller, standard head.

But, I’ll start off by testing the XL, which intrigued me the most because I just like to make a big hole if I can! I was excited to see how it performed.

So let’s see how the Tooth of the Arrow XL did. (Further down I’ll do a head-to-head battle between the XL and the original, so check that out as well!

Vented Penetration Testing

I shot it into my broadhead box where I’ve got four layers of MDF and they’re half inch each, and two of those layers have a rubber foam layer in front to simulate hide and a little bit of soft tissue there in the beginning and the end.

Angled Shot Penetration

Next, I shot it at a 1/2-inch MDF board at a 45-degrree angle to see how it would do through that.

Durability Testing

I shot the Tooth Of The Arrow head into a 22-gauge steel plate to see how it would fare.

Cinder Block Test

The cinder block is the final test that I do with the fixed-blade heads.

I don’t do this test or the steel plate test typically with the mechanical heads, but when you’re using a fixed head, you’re typically doing so because you really want to have some structural integrity and blade strength that’s above and beyond what a mechanical can do.

So, I just like to test the limits. Not many heads hold together after hitting the cinder block. A lot of them take chunks out, but then just kind of bend or fall apart. Very few heads hold together. There have only been a few that have made it. Let’s see how the Tooth of the Arrow did.

I would say this head is amongst the top few in terms of structural integrity that I’ve tested. It’s right up there with theQAD Exodus and the Muzzy Trocar and the Trophy Taker A-TAC.

I think the only ones that may have done better are the Bishop Archery and also the Iron Will.

Man, for the price, the Tooth Of The Arrow XL is one impressive head. I have to say, I’m pleasantly surprised. I give it an A+ in all categories.

Comparing the Tooth of the Arrow Original to the XL [Broadhead Battle!]

I wanted to compare the Tooth of the Arrow Original vs the XL version.

Now, I’ve done this in some other instances, like with the Magnus, where I tested the Stinger compared Black Hornet. And in this case, I tested the two models of Tooth of the Arrow broadheads.

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The Tooth of the Arrow broadheads are 100% made in the USA.

I tested these heads for long distance flight (I was able to pop a balloon at 80 yards) and I’m going to test them for edge sharpness and retention, for penetration, and for durability.

Let’s see which one prevails!

These heads have a unique feature about them, in that they keep a lot of the weight within the diameter of the arrow shaft.

Out of the box sharpness comparison

I tested the Tooth of the Arrow broadheads for out-of-the-box sharpness. The purpose is to see if they can still cut paper after a stroke of a carbon arrow shaft. Because both the Original and the XL have the same blades, I only tested one of the heads.

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Penetration comparison

I tested the Tooth of the Arrow Original and the XL for penetration. My medium was ballistic gel that was fronted with a rubber mad and 1/2″ MDF board.

Durability comparison

I shot both heads into a 22-gauge steel plate 5 times to test the durability. Check out the holes these heads made in the steel plate!

The holes themselves are really what sets the Tooth of the Arrow apart. OK. Here you can see the holes from the XL. OK. They are just bit squares. They are not just like four crosses or two crosses, four little slits. They are true squares!

In the steel plate test, there are very heads that are able to punch a chunk out like that. The Exodus does it in a triangular shape. And, as you can see here, the Tooth of the Arrow does it extremely well in a 4-blade shape. So that’s going to be a really difficult hole to close up in an animal.

You can only see on one of the XL blades a little bit of cosmetic marking. I don’t even know if you can pick that up in the picture below. It’s very hard to see.

These heads have extremely impressive durability. Some of the very best that I’ve tested.

Now, I have heard some reports of people shooting them and hitting them into a big heavy bone and one of the blades bending or shearing off. That can happen with any broadhead.

There are all kinds of crazy things that can happen in the field as you hit heavy bone at different angles. But through the steel plate as you can see in the picture below, they faired extremely well.

Cinder Block Test

Let’s look at these heads and see how they did after being shot into the cinder block.

Final Thoughts On The Tooth Of The Arrow Vented Broadheads

So, what do you think of this broadhead battle, the Original versus the XL?

Each of them has their distinct strengths. In terms of overall flight, the Original flies incredibly well. It’s one of the very best flying and forgiving broadheads I’ve ever tested.

In terms of penetration, the Original penetrated much more deeply. But, in terms of hole size, man, the XL really ruled in that department, though both of them really made a nice square hole in the mediums that I shot them through.

And the winner is…

In terms of which one is the winner, really, it’s a toss-up. I have to call it a tie. I hate to do that. But, this really is a draw. It just depends on your personal setup and what you’re hunting.

If you’re going after a really big animal where penetration is the most important thing then man, the Original is the way to go. If you have a lighter setup and you’re concerned about your penetration, then the Original is the way to go.

If you are going after a really long range shot like a pronghorn or something like that that you’re going beyond 60 yards, then the Original is the way to go.

But, if you are going for a shot under 60 yards and you really want to make a nice big hole and you have the kinetic energy to drive it through, (and honestly, it really doesn’t take that much kinetic energy to drive it through), then man, the XL is the way to go. For whitetail and hog shots under 50, 60 yards, I would definitely choose this one.

What I think is the best combination is to have a few of both in your quiver. If a shot is going to be longer, then you pull out the original. If the shot is going to be shorter, use the XL. And that way, you’re ready for any situation, and honestly, any animal as well.

There are several things to consider when choosing a broadhead. These heads have it all. They are fantastic broadheads.

Great job, Tooth of the Arrow!

Tooth Of The Arrow Solid Broadheads Review

Originally, Tooth of the Arrow only made the 100-grain and 125-grain in a vented version.

But they also have a solid, non-vented version in 100-grain and 125-grain.

Interesting Ferrule Design On the Solid Version

So let’s zoom on in here and let’s check out this new Tooth of the Arrows Solids.

What’s interesting in this solid model is that most of the specifications are exactly the same as the vented model.

The overall length is the same, 0.77 inch, making them to my knowledge the shortest single piece for blade steel broadhead that there is, which is just going to aid in flight.

The blades are also the same thickness as the vented model. They are 0.040 inch thick. The blade angle is the same at 45-degree blade angle to maximize the penetration.

And so, the same short profile, the same cut size of 1 inch, and 2 inches of total cut.

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Why A Solid?

So, why come out with a non-vented blade, a solid blade?

Well, many people prefer solid blades over vented blades because they do have some advantages.

One of the advantages is less noise in flight than with vented brodadheads. You have air passing through that hole and it can make whistling or a wheezing sound as it rotates and flies at really high speeds.

So, the solid heads will definitely be quieter.

In addition, a solid can be more durable because there’s not that venting that creates a thin area in the blade that could be more prone to bending or breaking than a solid one. So, that’s the primary reason for doing it.

But, I wondered how it would affect flight and penetration?

In some ways, you might think, “Well, it’s going to fly better, because with these grooves, it’s going to be more aerodynamic in flight.” But, the opposite side of that is, “well, there’s more exposed surface blade than there was in the original, because so much of that blade was covered by the ferrule.”

So, I was curious to see what the flight would be like.

And, same with the penetration. On the one hand, I can say, “well, with this groove, it might penetrate better.”

But, on the other side of that, I go, “well, I’ve noticed that there’s a really thick ferrule. It often opens up a hole for the shaft to just glide through really easily, and those broadheads penetrate more effectively than the ones with a smaller ferrule.”

So, I was really curious to see how all of these things compare.

I tested the 100-grain solid, the 125-grain solid, and for a comparative sake, I compared it to the 125-grain vented.

Initial Sharpess Test Of The Solid

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Penetration Test 1 Of The Solid:

Edge Retention Test: (sharpness after Penetration Test 1) Of Solid

Penetration Test 2 Of Solid: (layered cardboard)

Durability Test Of Solid: (22 gauge steel plate, max 2 shots)

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Durability Test of Solid: (Concrete Block)

Final Thoughts On Tooth Of The Arrow Solid Broadhead

The solid is going to be a little bit quieter in flight than the vented version and I think the blades are going to be a little bit more durable, because they have that extra support.

However, I think maybe the vented models are going to penetrate just a little bit better and you saw that in the testing. And, I think they might be a little bit more forgiving in really long range flight.

But again, that may be all within the margin of error.

There may not be differences at all in those areas because I think all of them, both the vented, the non-vented are really durable. They fly really well and they penetrate really well.