As a fuzz-cheeked sports reporter many years ago in Martinsville, I asked the sports editor if I might write about outdoors events in Bulletin Country.

Anxious to keep me around because of a paltry salary, he agreed (and I needed the writing experience). That fall and winter I was stunned by the wall-hanger bucks local deer hunters brought to the office on Broad Street.

Because Commonwealth whitetails weren’t publicized and almost none lived where I was raised in central North Carolina (the Dixie Deer Classic wouldn’t appear for eight years), southern Virginia’s Blue Ridge bucks looked like they’d stepped out of Midwest hunting magazines.

The lack of trophy-deer publicity may have held back its reputation, but it’s been rising each year, currently rated 20th to 27th by national hunting magazines.

With 1 million deer and just 75,000 hunters, Virginia today leads the Southeast in impressive whitetails.

The Virginia Department of Game and Inland Fisheries helps by wisely managing the state’s herd for quality rather than quantity, with two distinct regulations areas (east and west) and different bag limits at each region.

Challenges remain, from deer diseases (chronic wasting disease has crept into a few northwest counties and EHD outbreaks that periodically occur) to decreasing habitat and coyote predation. But three monster bucks from 2016 show the overall state of deer affairs is healthy in the Old Dominion.

BEAUTY OF A BEAST

Brent Boney, 42, works for Greensville County Water and Sewer near Emporia and belongs to the Round Hill Hunting Club of Skipper.

“We’ve got 15 members and 20 Walker hounds,” he said. “We lease 600 acres where we still- and dog-hunt. We take more deer while dog-hunting, but still-hunters kill bigger bucks.”

He should have added “usually” because that didn’t happen Nov. 16, 2016, when Boney dropped a 210 6/8-inch 25-pointer, the top-scoring southern rack at the 2017 Dixie Deer Classic and a Boone & Crockett qualifier.

“We use dogs exclusively during the two big winter holidays, Thanksgiving and Christmas,” Boney said.

The club has an agreement with an adjoining landowner, who only allows still-hunting.

“The deer know they’d be safe if they can make it to his land,” Boney said. “The ones we jumped always went to a certain section near the back of our lease (to enter the de facto sanctuary).”

Club members draw for stand sites. In 2015 Boney picked a zone near the sanctuary because he’d seen a handful of small trees destroyed by a big buck’s rubs. During November 2016 the hounds jumped a rocking-chair rack deer, and it ran within 40 yards of him, but Boney couldn’t get a clear shot in the thick 6- to 7-year-old cutover. Unluckily, a holly bush absorbed most of the 00 buckshot.

“I told the other club members what happened, and they laughed,” he said. “I don’t know if they believed me. No one had seen a deer like that.”

In February 2016, Boney returned to the area and brought a machete. He used it to clear several shooting lanes off a main trail he walked to reach his spot.

“I was gonna be ready if I got a chance at him again,” he said.

Opening day of 2016 gun season Boney once again pulled a number that allowed him to hunt the same region. His 18-year-old daughter, McKaley Boney, was one of several designated dog handlers.

“I sat and listened to dogs for two hours and was about to give up when she called me (with a cell phone),” he said. “She told me to sit tight because she’d just caught four hounds crossing a road onto someone else’s property. She planned to drive near me and release the dogs.”

A minute or two later, Boney heard the hounds open up on a deer that seemed headed straight for him.

“He was about 100 yards in front of the dogs when he came through one of the shooting lanes,” the hunter said.

Boney put his Remington 870 Magnum Wingmaster shotgun, loaded with 00 buckshot, to his shoulder and fired when the buck trotted into a shooting lane. The deer stumbled, fell, and didn’t get up.

“When I walked to him and saw his antlers, I said, ‘Oh, my Lord,'” Boney said. “I had never seen anything like this deer.”

Its 5×5 mainframe rack had 25 scoreable tines and points, including nine abnormals on the right main beam and six on the left beam. Officially scored after 60 days, it had a right main beam of 26 6/8 inches and the left taped 26 3/8 inches. Brow tines were 5 3/8 and 7 0/8 while G2s were 11 6/8 and 11 7/8. G3s were 10 4/8 and 11 7/8 inches with G4s at 2 5/8 and 6 4/8 inches. The circumference numbers ranged from 5 0/8 (H1) to 3 1/8 (H4) inches. The inside spread totaled 18 1/8 inches while the outside spread was 21 4/8 inches.

The Virginia record non-typical buck, a 31-pointer killed by muzzle-loader hunter Jim Smith of Chilhowie in Warren County during 1992, taped 257 4/8 inches.

BATTERY-POWERED BUCK

Rodney Wingfield barely contained his excitement Oct. 1, 2016, the first day of archery season in Virginia.

“A trail camera I had put up near a Franklin County field got some pictures of a big buck before the season opened,” said the 42-year-old Martinsville resident, who put a crossbow bolt through a B&C qualifier (177 7/8 net typical inches) that day.

Henry County, with Martinsville at the center, borders Franklin County on its northern boundary.

Wingfield, 42, and a self-employed IT technician for a Greensboro (N.C.) company, had secured a Leaner Deluxe two-person 18-foot ladder tree stand against an oak beside a 10-acre field.

“It’s a big grassy field out in the middle of nowhere and is too big to hunt with a regular bow, which is how my dad, Raymond, and my brother, Elan, hunt,” he said. “But the field, ringed by some hardwoods and pines, is considered a high-traffic (deer) area.”

Wingfield admitted he’s not a hard-core hunter, but he was confident in his ability to shoot a Barnett Quad 400 crossbow he’d purchased from a friend seven or eight years earlier.

“I can hit a (dinner) plate (target) at 50 yards pretty regular,” he said. “The crossbow shoots flat, out to 50 yards. It has a red-dot scope on top. But I didn’t get up early on opening day to hunt in the morning and that afternoon I wore blue jeans, a camouflage t-shirt and didn’t use an scent-blocker or face paint.”

Wingfield, who had two crossbow whitetails to his credit, had hunted from the tree stand in the past and knew where deer likely would enter the field.

“They always seemed to come from off my right shoulder, so that’s where I was watching,” he said.

But he discovered when he picked up the crossbow that its battery-powered scope had been left in the “on” position and might lack power.

“I wasn’t too worried because I got into the stand about 4:45 p.m., and there should be plenty of daylight,” Wingfield said. “But if deer didn’t move until available light got low, I turned the scope off and hoped I could put it on high power and maybe make the dot glow when I needed it. Otherwise I’d guess about an aim point.”

Farms surrounding the Wingfields’ land had been leased and planted in soybeans, so the field was a crossing area for whitetails.

He’d already decided he wouldn’t take a chancy shot because he’d learned during preseason practice that 50 yards was his accuracy limit.

After a few minutes passed, a small six-pointer walked into the field and began sniffing the ground about 40 yards from Wingfield’s stand.

“He came from behind me,” he said. “No deer ever had come from that direction. Then I heard something else back there and figured it was a coyote.”

But the sound wasn’t a coyote. Instead the buck with 189 4/8 gross antler inches appeared 20 yards to Wingfield’s right. He put the faint red dot on the deer’s left shoulder and squeezed the crossbow’s trigger.

The deer never knew what hit it as the broadhead, pushed at 345 feet per second, sizzled through both lungs.

“He took five steps and fell over,” said Wingfield, who waited until dark before climbing down from his stand.

“I got my truck and drove to him, but I couldn’t lift him into the bed,” he said. “I had to drive home and get my brother and his girlfriend. They helped load the deer.”

The buck only weighed 120 pounds, but the experience — and seeing the massive headgear — drained Wingfield.

“My dad said he’d never seen a buck like this one in 40 years,” the hunter said. “All my brother could do was shake his head.”

Virginia’s non-typical deer archery record is shared by Clifton Forge’s John Feazell, who downed a 22-point Botetourt County trophy in 2009 that totaled 221 2/8 Pope&Young inches while Jimmy “Bo” Sturgill of Pound shot a 27-point, 221 2/8 buck in Wise County during November 2011.

BROOMSTRAW BOOMER

Jason Hazelwood, who drives a cement truck for Felton Brothers Transit Mixes of South Hill, put his fingerprints in Old Dominion hunting records Nov. 6, 2016.

That’s when his .50-caliber CVA in-line muzzleloader rifle dropped a Mecklenburg County buck with a nearly perfect rack that totaled 165 net Boone & Crockett inches, 5 inches shy of qualifying as an all-time B&C buck. It earned entry into the organization’s Awards category and its gross score totaled 172 6/8 inches.

It was likely Virginia’s top typical muzzleloader buck of 2016.

“We were hunting a farm with 270 acres that had a 3-acre broomstraw field,” he said.

“It was a spur-of-the-moment thing (to hunt for the field). It had a stand that had been there a couple of years before, a 12-foot-tall buddy stand.”

Although Hazelwood hadn’t seen the big whitetail and had no trail-cam photos, he was confident through second-hand information a large buck lived in the area.

“Some other people had photographs of him,” he said. “I knew there was a possibility he was there.”

The 37-year-old had hunted unsuccessfully during archery season, but those excursions gave him confidence he wasn’t wasting his time.

“I didn’t see him during bow season, but I did find scrapes along the edge of the field and some nice (tree) rubs.”

Virginia allowed Sunday hunting in 2014 when Governor Terry McAuliffe signed a bill that gave property-owners the right to hunt big game, including deer, on their own land. It also gave visitors the right to hunt with a landowner’s permission.

Certainly that ruling helped Hazelwood bag his trophy Oct. 1, 2016, which was a Sunday.

“I got into the stand about 4:15 p.m.,” he said. “It was on the edge of the broomstraw field.”

After he waited a few minutes, three does came into view.

“A little while later, another doe ran into the field, chased by the buck,” Hazelwood said. “The rut was on, and he had his neck stretched out and his nose down. Then he must have scented one of the other does and started to chase her.”

When the hunter saw the buck’s rack, he admitted he caught a case of buck fever.

It helped to settle his muzzle-loader’s barrel, holding 100 grains of black powder and seated underneath a 280-grain Sabot bullet, on a rail around the stand.

“I watched him chase that doe for 3 minutes and felt like he was going to run her out of the field, so I took the shot at about 75 yards,” he said. “I was looking through a 3x9x50 scope, aimed at his front shoulder but hit him a little farther back.”

When the buck left the field, the hunter burned the spot in his memory. Hazelwood couldn’t find any blood sign but walked to his last sighting of the wall-hanger and found the beautiful deer piled up a few steps into the woods.

The rack’s main beams were 24 3/8 and 25 3/8 inches, with G2s of 10 3/8 and 10 6/8 and G3s of 9 4/8 and 10 4/8 inches. Only one 2-inch abnormal point, 3 inches of total asymmetrical tine length and 5/8 inch of circumference difference marred its 5×5 main frame antlers.

2017 Southern Deer Forecast

Planning a beach or desert camping escapade? Well, before you sink your toes into the warm sand, let’s talk about a tiny but essential detail: the best tent stakes for sand. If you think you can use the stakes you normally bring on a camping trip, I’m sorry to say that they’ll refuse to play nice with the shifting sands, and they’ll leave your shelter teetering with every gust of wind. You’ll need something more specialized, which is why we’ve put together a list of our favorite sand stakes. Whether you’re a seasoned sand camper or a newbie ready to dip your toes into this unique experience, we’re sure you’ll find an option that works for you in our review below.

In this article, we’ll be reviewing the following best tent stakes for sand:

• REI Co-op Snow Stake – Editor’s Choice
• Neso Ground Screw Stakes – Best Overall
• Syarme Sand Stakes – Cheapest Stakes
• 7Penn Spiral Ground Anchors – Most Durable Stakes
• Lifeswell Ground Anchors – Best Bang for Your Buck
• Eurmax Spiral Stakes – Most Versatile Stakes

Best Tent Stakes for Sand – Reviewed

Don’t let the name deceive you – while the REI Co-op snow stakes are obviously designed to be used in snow, they work just as well in sand. As someone who’s used them in the desert a number of times, I can personally attest to their effectiveness.These snow stakes are thin and wide, instead of cylindrical like most tent stakes. You’ll notice a number of holes along the length of the shaft, which allow the sand and snow to better lock it in place. While I find that this design isn’t quite as secure as a corkscrew stake, I do tend to prefer this style for sand because of how easy it is to use. The price is pretty reasonable as well. You can get four of them for under $30, though from experience, I can assure you that you’ll want more. Six is the bare minimum that you’ll want, though I would probably go up to eight, just to be safe. And if you’re worried about how much you’ll get weighed down with that many stakes, don’t be. They’re only an ounce a piece, so you can go pretty crazy before the weight starts to become an issue.Pros:– Lightweight- Easy to pack away- Effective in multiple environments- Good price- Simple to useCons:– They lack some of the securing power that you’ll find in a corkscrew

Made from recycled materials, the Neso ground screw stakes are what you want to have if the REI snow stakes mentioned above aren’t your jam. These guys are incredibly durable and stable, though they do take longer to put into place than the snow stakes. You’ll need to use the included T-Grip tool to twist them into place, even if the sand is easier to work with than soil.Still, this is where I tend to find fault with corkscrew stakes. Desert environments get pretty windy around sunset, and if you’re starting to make camp around that time, it can be a hassle to set up your tent. If your stakes take awhile to get into place, you’re going to need an extra set of hands or two to help prevent your shelter from flying away in the wind.I do wish these were a little longer, but they work well enough for most desert and beach camping. They’re also slightly more expensive than the REI snow stakes, but not by much, so price is still fairly budget friendly. For a versatile tent stake that can be used in sand and other ground materials, the Neso ground stakes are definitely worth considering.Pros:– Durable- Fairly easy to use- Good price- Nice security- VersatileCons:– Take longer to get into place

What can I say about the Syarme tent stakes? They’re cheap and you’ll know it when you use them for the first time, but hey, they still get the job done…for the most part.Okay, I’m being a little pessimistic. While they aren’t going to receive my “best overall” award, they truly are a good option for the occasional beach camping trip. You get a good number of them for the price, allowing you to secure the corners or your tent along with any guylines that you want to setup as well. As long as you stay away from severe wind gusts, you shouldn’t have any problems with the Syarme tent stakes.But that’s where my flattery ends. Not only do they feel cheap, but they also don’t come with any tool to help you twist them into the ground. Considering how sharp the plastic is in a number of places, it’s a great way to cut yourself, if you aren’t careful.I’m also unimpressed with the length of the stakes. Since they’re designed to be used in the sand, I would have expected a few more inches of length to really help provide the security that you need when the wind picks up. As it stands, you’ll be fine in low and moderate wind gusts, but in anything stronger, you’ll start to have stakes pulling out of the ground.Pros:– Good value for the cost- Decently secure- A good number come in the pack- Fine for relatively fair-weather campingCons:– No tools to help you secure them- They like to pull out in strong wind

The first set of steel tent stakes for sand in this review, the durability is reason enough for me to like these 7Penn stakes. They are a little more expensive than every other product we’ve mentioned so far, but it can be a worthy tradeoff, depending on how you plan to use them.However, my biggest concern with the steel is how much heavier it is too. A full 5.5 pounds is no laughing matter, so these aren’t the sort of stakes that you want to carry with you long distances. Backpacking is automatically off the table, which leaves you with car camping – probably at the beach. If that doesn’t bother you, then most of my complaints end there.Overall, they’re a versatile set of stakes that can be used on a variety of terrains. Even so, considering they’re screw stakes, you’ll want to make sure the ground is pretty soft, otherwise you’ll have a hard time rooting them in place. Or, if you can find a stick to thread through the eyelet, I find that the extra leverage can help the stake dig into tougher soil.Generally speaking, I feel pretty confident in saying that these are the most heavy-duty tent stakes in this review. If you need that tough, no-nonsense reliability and don’t care about price or weight, these are the ones for you.Pros:– Highly durable- Very sturdy- Pretty reasonable price- Versatile- ReliableCons:– Heavy

For the price, the Lifeswell ground anchors are actually a pretty good deal. They have a decent length, and the securing power is better than most stakes sporting this style. The alloy steel is also quite durable, and since there’s less material than what you’ll find on the CORQUE stakes, they’re not excessively heavy either. While they do still have some heft to them, you could get away with carrying a set of these stakes on a backpacking trip, if you didn’t mind the extra pound or two.Unfortunately, I find that they aren’t as easy to screw into place as the CORQUE or the Neso ground anchors. While those two come with a twist stick to give you a handhold and some leverage, the Lifeswell stakes don’t give you this luxury. Instead, if you want the process to go quickly, you’ll need a drill. Obviously, most of us don’t think to bring a drill while camping (and many of us probably wouldn’t want to anyway), but it can be workable for car campers setting up shop on the beach. Backpackers, I’m sorry to say that these just won’t work for you. While you can twist them by hand, I’d recommend going with a different stake option to save yourself the hassle.Still, if you have a way to twist them into place, these stakes are an incredibly versatile option that can be used in a variety of terrains. Especially for the price, they give you some of the best bang for your buck.Pros:– Good value for the price- Versatile- Secure- Durable- Decent weight for how strong they areCons:– Need a drill to be secured

Though they’re designed to be used for securing trampolines, the Eurmax spiral stakes are a versatile option that work well in sand as well. As we’ve established at this point, the spiral shape is very effective at locking the stake into place, despite the ever-shifting sands. And, while I do wish they were longer, these Eurmax stakes still do a pretty good job of providing adequate stability.Like the Lifeswell anchors mentioned above, you will need a drill in order to screw these into place. As someone who’s done a bit of desert camping, I just can’t get on board with this design for backpacking, due to the inconvenience. Sure, it works well for car camping, but that’s hardly a good enough excuse to label it the “best overall.”Still, for what it’s designed for, the Eurmax does a great job. The alloy steel is quite durable, and while the weight is on the higher end, it’s not too much of a burden for car campers who need a solid set of stakes for sand.Pros:– Durable- Pretty solid- Good for car camping- VersatileCons:– Price- Weight

Best Tent Stakes for Sand – Buyer’s Guide

Size

In sandy terrain, longer tent stakes are going to be your best bet. I’d suggest you aim for stakes that are at least 12 inches in length, as this extra length allows for deeper penetration into the sand, providing better stability for your tent. With longer stakes, you can minimize the risk of your tent getting uprooted by strong winds or shifting sand, giving you peace of mind throughout your camping adventure.Another aspect to keep in mind is the diameter or thickness of the tent stakes. For optimal grip and resistance against sand shifting, look for stakes with a diameter of around 0.4 to 0.5 inches. This size strikes a perfect balance between strength and maneuverability. Not only that, but stakes with a slightly thicker diameter offer better anchoring and minimize the chances of bending or deforming when driven into the sand.

Weight

When you’re dealing with sand, your stakes need to have enough anchoring power to withstand windy conditions and other unusual elements. But at the same time, they shouldn’t be a burden to carry around. After all, who wants to feel weighed down when enjoying a day at the beach or exploring the desert?That’s where lightweight tent stakes come to the rescue. Not only are they easier on your back, but they also make your life much simpler when it comes to setting up camp. That’s not to say that stakes are very heavy – many of them weigh under a pound (and that’s for the whole set), but any backpacker knows that every ounce adds up. Lightweight stakes make your life easier and leave you with more energy to enjoy your surroundings.

Material

When it comes to securing a tent, sand poses a unique challenge due to its loose and shifting nature, making it more difficult for tent stakes to maintain a firm grip. However, with the right material, you can increase your chances of a successful setup.One of the best materials for tent stakes in sandy environments is aluminum. Aluminum tent stakes are lightweight, which makes them easy to carry in your backpack, and their durability ensures they won’t bend or break easily. The smooth surface of aluminum stakes allows them to slide into the sand with less effort, providing a solid anchor for your tent (assuming they have holes along their length, or they sport a corkscrew design). Additionally, aluminum is resistant to corrosion, so you don’t have to worry about rust even if you frequently camp near coastal areas.Another popular option for sandy terrains is titanium tent stakes. Although titanium stakes can be a bit more expensive than aluminum, they offer several advantages. Titanium is incredibly lightweight, making it ideal for backpackers who value every ounce of weight in their gear. These stakes also have excellent strength-to-weight ratio, allowing them to withstand the forces exerted by the sand. And like aluminum, titanium is also highly resistant to corrosion, ensuring longevity and reliability in sandy conditions.But both of these materials can get expensive pretty quickly, especially titanium. So for those of you who are looking for a more budget-friendly option, plastic tent stakes can be a viable choice. While not as durable as aluminum or titanium, plastic stakes can still perform well in softer sand. They are lightweight, affordable, and less likely to cause damage to your tent if accidentally stepped on. However, it’s important to note that plastic stakes may not withstand strong winds or very compact sand as effectively as their metal counterparts.

Shape

Traditional stakes, commonly known as “Y” or “V” stakes, have been the go-to option for many campers. These stakes feature a simple design with a single or double pointy end, and while they work well in various terrains, they may not be the most suitable choice for sandy surfaces. The reason behind this lies in their shape and smoothness, which makes them prone to slipping out of loose sand.To tackle this challenge, tent stake manufacturers have introduced specialized stakes designed explicitly for sandy environments. One popular option is the “sand anchor” stake, which has a unique spiral shape, resembling an auger or corkscrew. The spiral design allows them to twist deeper into the sand, providing a more secure hold. They are especially effective in preventing your tent from getting uprooted during strong gusts of wind.The kind that I use, though, are the REI Co-op snow stakes mentioned above. Since snow and sand are so similar, if you find a stake that works well in one condition, it will almost certainly work well in the other. As far as the snow stakes go, you’ll notice that they have a relatively flat shape which is marked with holes. Snow (and sand) will fill in these holes, providing the grip you need to secure your tent.

Pack Size

A final tip… Make sure you know how many stakes you’re getting in a pack. Especially when buying online, some stakes are sold individually while others are sold as a bunch, so make sure you know how many you need (and how many you’re getting) before you hit that “Add to cart” button.

At Untamed Space, we’re passionate about helping you have the best camping experience possible. Our team of experts have experience camping and backpacking all over the world, allowing them to provide insightful and relevant content to guide you in your outdoor pursuits.All of our reviews are based on a combination of firsthand experience, extensive research, and an analysis of customer feedback. We are an independent website and do not receive payments or incentives from manufacturers to promote their products, and we continuously update our content to provide new information based on product availability. Wherever you are in your journey, whatever gear you’re searching for, you can be sure to find unbiased and up-to-date reviews for all of your needs.

FAQ

Final Thoughts

When it comes to choosing the best tent stakes for sand, certain key features can make a world of difference in ensuring a secure and worry-free camping experience. Sand poses unique challenges due to its loose nature, which means you need stakes with very specific characteristics.On the whole, we believe the Neso Ground Screw Stakes stand out as an exceptional choice, checking the most boxes with their secure design. With their durable construction, impressive length, and spiral shape, these stakes provide optimal security and stability on sandy surfaces. Their ease of use and ability to withstand challenging conditions make them a top contender for any beach or desert camping adventure.

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A figure 4 deadfall trap is one of the easiest primitive traps, and all you really need is a few sticks, a sharp knife, and bait.

There’s no cordage or complicated snare knots, just the simple tension of a few sticks holding a big rock in position, just waiting for the right animal to trigger it.

In its simplest form, a figure 4 trap starts with just three sticks, each about 8 inches long and 1 1/2 inches in diameter. From there, each stick can be carved into a simple tension deadfall trap that comes together without any cordage or snares.

The weight of the rock pushes down on the sticks, and if the notches are crafted right, this creates tension that holds the whole deadfall trap together. It’s a precarious balance though, and all it takes is the tiniest touch on the baited end and the whole structure comes crashing down…ideally mashing your prey.

Figure four traps are wonderful if you live in an area with an abundance of large, flat-ish rocks like my home in Vermont. These types of deadfall traps are best suited to small game, such as squirrels or possibly raccoon if you find (and can move) a big enough stone.

How to Make a Figure 4 Trap

I’m starting with three pieces of dry white pine, split like kindling. The straight grain makes carving much easier, but really any branch you can find in the woods will work.

This deadfall trap has three pieces, and for simplicity, I’ll refer to them as the vertical piece, diagonal piece and trigger piece. I’ve added a 4th piece to extend the trigger deeper under the rock and lashed it together with a bit of twine, but that piece is unnecessary I found.

The vertical piece is the easiest to carve, so start there. It’s basically just a stick with a pointed end. The point isn’t carved on all sides, just two of the faces, so it comes to a long linear point at one end.

The base end remains flat because that’s going to rest on the ground, or more specifically, another flat rock placed on the ground. Otherwise, the heavy rock pressing down on top would just drive it into the ground like a stake. Even a small-ish flat rock, maybe 4” in diameter prevents this, and also makes it easier to set the trap with a flat surface as a work area.

Here’s the vertical piece set into the figure 4 trap. All it needs to do is hook into the notch on the diagonal piece.

One more important thing to note about this first piece…the sides need to be squared off. This is important, as you’ll see later, since it allows the trigger piece to hook onto this stick.

Carving the Diagonal Piece

Next up is the diagonal piece, which is a bit more complicated, and has carved portions on both ends. The top comes to a rounded point where it will support the rock, and underneath it has a small notch for holding the vertical stick in place.

Start by rounding off the top end, and then notching into the stick about 2 inches below that. The notch should have a bit of a hook to it, which will help keep the vertical piece in place when they’re connected.

Carve the bottom of that same stick into a point, working just two sides so you have a long seam to hook into the 3rd piece (trigger piece).

Here’s what the diagonal piece should look like when finished:

Carving the Deadfall Trap Trigger

The final piece is the trigger stick or the horizontal piece in the figure 4 trap. This piece is the most complex because it needs to support the diagonal piece and hook onto the vertical piece. It hooks onto the side of the vertical piece, which is what creates the trigger tension.

Downward force from the weight of the rock above is pressuring the diagonal piece and trying to pull the trigger piece backward. It’s notched and hooked around the vertical piece, which is what holds the whole deadfall trap together until it’s tripped.

As I mentioned earlier, the vertical piece needs to be squared off so that the trigger piece can hook onto it. This is why…

Start by carving a notch at the back of the stick for the diagonal piece to rest against to tension the trap. Be sure to leave enough wood at the end that it won’t break out at the end when under stress. About an inch should do.

This notch should fit nicely into the bottom of your diagonal stick, and hook it in there with a bit of tension. Test the shape against your diagonal stick. This is the first of 3 different carved sections on the trigger stick.

Next, go to the other end and carve it into a narrow point to hold the bait. In my case, I’m using peanut butter, and more practically in the woods you might be using a tiny piece of meat or fruit and you’d need a sharp point to stick it to the trigger stick.

This is the most open-ended part of the whole trap, and really you can make it look like just about anything you’d like. Something small, so the animal has to nudge it a bit when they try to take the bait works best.

I could also imagine an alternate configuration where this trigger end is just a thin shelf to support some kind of seed or nut. It really depends on the bait you’re using, and how you want to dangle it out there.

Once you have that notch and the trigger point finished, place the pieces in figure 4 position to figure out where the side trip notch needs to be placed. This will vary a bit, based on the size of your wood and how you’ve carved the notches up to this point, but it should be about half way up the side of the trigger stick.

Carve the trigger notch out square so that the trigger stick hooks around the vertical stick. The finished trigger stick should look like this:

When I made this, I was concerned that my trigger stick was too short. As you can see, the side notch is about 2/3rds down the side of my stick and there’s not much trigger past the vertical stick on the figure 4.

I took another stick and lashed it together to extend the trigger further under the rock. In hindsight, that was completely unnecessary and the short trigger would work just as well.

I had a particularly long rock, so this trigger extension really gets the bait far underneath it. That’s totally optional, and actually limits the prey I can catch by putting the bait in a very small space.

A shorter trigger might mean catching something like a raccoon, but this long trigger placed far under limits the trap a bit. Luckily, I was targeting a tiny red squirrel that the best squirrel traps I could find hadn’t yet managed to catch. He was fun to watch, but when he took up residence inside the ceiling of my house we had to make other arrangements.

Be careful, of course, to check any local restrictions on trapping if you plan to deploy your deadfall trap. Also be aware that the trap will crush anything that trips it…including children, pets or toes.

If you do catch small game, try out any of these squirrel recipes. We really enjoyed traditional Brunswick stew, and country fried squirrel with gravy is a great breakfast.

All in all, the whole deadfall trap took me about half an hour to carve, sitting at the picnic table in our yard while the kids played nearby with their Tonka trucks. I don’t have a smartphone you see, so that means I get fun project time anytime the kids are self-entertaining. This, I can tell you, was a much more satisfying way to spend a few quiet minutes than scrolling Instagram.

It was a fun skill to practice, long in advance of being in a wilderness survival situation where I needed to harvest food with minimal equipment. Even lacking a knife, this trap could be made by carving with a sharp rock. It’d take a lot longer, but you could make it happen if you had to.

For me, it’s nice to know I have that skill under my belt, and now I’m looking forward to learning other types of traps.

More Bushcraft Skills

Looking for more bushcraft skills tutorials? Read on my friends…

• How to Clean & Gut a Groundhog
• How to Clean a Squirrel in Under a Minute
• Making Fatwax (Animal Fat Salve)
• How to Render Squirrel Fat (for Cookies!)
• How to Process Soil into Clay for Pottery
• How to Make Primitive Arrows

• I tested a very, very well equipped 2020 Ram 1500 Rebel pickup truck, an off-road optimized version of the truck that captured our Car of the Year award in 2019.
• My Rebel had a potent 3.0-liter turbodiesel engine that serves up 260 horsepower but an earthshaking 480 pound-feet of torque.
• My tester also featured a menacing, blacked-out exterior package.
• The Ram 1500 is a great pickup, but the diesel Rebel is something special.
• Visit Business Insider’s homepage for more stories.

Here’s how the sequence usually goes for me when it comes to reviewing full-size pickup trucks. First, I sample the regular gas-powered version, and because I like big pickups, I often end up a happy guy. But then I spend some time with the diesel-engined model, and I forget all about the gas-burner.

Diesel and pickups! Two great tastes that go great together! A beautiful friendship!

Choose your cliché, but the bottom line is that diesel power, for obvious reasons, makes sense for large trucks — especially if you intend to do any sort of serious work, haul heavy loads, or tow more than a modest camper or trailer.

Ram makes a dandy full-size pickup. The Ram 1500 was Business Insider’s 2019 Car of the Year, and it was a vehicle that impressed us mightily when tested on both the East and West Coasts. But the diesel is even better if you can imagine improving on greatness, as I found out when I borrowed the 2020 edition of the pickup, in a handsome “Diamond Black Crystal Pearl-Coat” paint job, for a week over the summer.

Rebel, Rebel … I love you so!

And what a pickup it was! The Base Crew Cab 4×4 was $47,990, but many options — including the “Rebel Level 2” equipment group ($3,000) and a $5,000 diesel motor — brought my as-tested price to $71,305. A tech package that added heated seats and a heated steering wheel also tacked $3,000 on the sticker, and assorted other goodies embellished the Ram by $200 to $500 here and there.

But that’s the usual story full-size pickups, which are best thought of these days as nearly infinitely option-able, yielding some wide price ranges for the manufacturers that sell everything from bare-bones work trucks to luxurious half-tons.

Allow me to explain why I was testing the Ram 1500 in the first place: gardening! We sort of amped- p our summertime gardening game this year and had to make a journey of modest distance to a center in New Jersey that we’d heard about from our gardening underground.

An SUV wasn’t going to cut it; we needed a proper pickup with the proper bed. And as you can see from the photo above, we made good use of it.

The Ram 1500 I tested came with both a tonneau cover, which was easily folded back, and a bed-separator — a great feature that allowed me to divide the box into one area for heavy bags of soil and one for plants. Using the divider to create a spot for the plants close to the cab meant that I could return home at highway speed without worrying about the load shifting, and I didn’t have to employ the Ram 1500’s tie-down points.

The truck also had the useful RamBox “saddlebags,” a pair of lockable storage compartments at the bed’s flanks. I didn’t need them, but the feature does use the interior of the Ram 1500’s body panels to create some additional capacity, where otherwise an owner might be looking at a third-party setup to tote tools or gear.

Trading horsepower for torque, torque, and more torque

The 3.0-liter, turbodiesel V6 makes 260 horsepower but — get this — 480 pound-feet of torque.

That translates into monumental pulling power. The Rebel can tow more than 12,500 pounds, all while putting up some tasty fuel-economy numbers: 21 mpg in the city, 29 on the highway, and 24 combined. (Gas-engined trucks offer a 395-horsepower V8 and a 305-horsepower V6.)

The Ram’s eight-speed automatic handles all of that torque rather gracefully, piping it to the capable four-wheel-drive system. But it doesn’t alter the Rebel diesel’s demeanor, which put me in the mind of a small freight train when I was tooling down the highway.

The truck can go from a standstill to 60 mph in about eight seconds, and when you sum all this up, you see what the Rebel is all about: bold off-roading, an answer to the Ford F-150 Raptor.

The knobby Goodyear tires were a giveaway, but the overall packaging of my Rebel test truck suggested that one could apply the vehicle to a greater variety of tasks than just trail-busting — crammed as it was with infotainment tech, connectivity, premium appointments, and that dashing black paint job.

The blacked-out treatment went further than the paint: the $525 exterior package brought a black grille with black framing, a black Ram badge, and black 18-inch wheels.

As far as off-roading goes, I could point out that black shows dirt, but the Rebel looks so dang cool that I doubt it would stay dirty for long, if ever. This is a pickup that wants to pay frequent visits to the car wash.

Note, however, that there are textured running boards, making getting in and out of the lifted pickup much easier, but also making it possible to scrape mud off your boots before soiling the primo cab.

A high-end interior and a high-end verdict

The all-black exterior theme continues inside the Rebel, with plush front bucket seats and a comfy, capacious rear configuration. A dual-pane sunroof brightens the cabin considerably, but it’s a $1,500 extra.

My test truck was chock full o’ tech, starting with the 8.4-inch central touchscreen running Fiat Chrysler’s underrated Uconnect infotainment system. This setup handles everything from Bluetooth and USB device connectivity to GPS navigation (with USB ports dedicated to charging). I enjoyed the dulcet tones of a 19-speaker Harman-Kardon premium audio system and had Apple CarPlay and Android Auto in reserve.

The Ram 1500 was the best full-size pick we drove, off all the half-tons on the market, in the period from about 2015 until last year, when the new Ram grabbed top prize in our Car of Year competition.

I had no complaints about the gas-engined V8 I tested in 2019, but the diesel V6 was something special. If you aren’t driving fast all the time, you grow to love the succulent surge of torque that an awesome diesel produces, and the visual presentation of the Ram 1500 Rebel intensifies that impression.

Simply put, the Ram 1500 Rebel diesel is addictive to drive and addictive to look at, in a totally badass sort of way. I think it shook up the gardening center on that day I visited — Darth Vader unsettling the ‘burbs.

It’s worth pointing out that although the truck has attitude galore, it also gets the job done. This imitating pickup carried flowers and potting soil home, safely and it style. And that says more about the modern, full-size pickup truck world these days than just about anything else.

Did you know that grizzly bears have some of the biggest paws in the animal kingdom?

Not only that, but they also have sharp claws, which they use frequently.

But how big are grizzly bear paws, and how sharp are their claws? And how can you identify a bear print?

In this article, we’ll discuss grizzly bear paws and claws, how you can identify them, their size and sharpness, and more.

Do Grizzly Bears Have Paws?

Grizzly bears use their paws for a variety of tasks, including digging, climbing, and catching prey.

They have five toes on each paw, each with its own claw.

The pads on the bottom of grizzly bear paws act as shock absorbers when they walk, helping them avoid injury when walking over rough terrain.

Through millions of years, grizzly bears have developed specialized paws. They’re wide to support their weight, and the front paws work as paddles when they swim.

Do Grizzly Bears Have Claws?

Grizzlies use their claws to dig for food, excavate burrows for rodents, or hibernacula for other animals. They also use their claws to climb trees, where they often feast on honey or insects.

Claws are also important weapons and tools for grizzlies. They sometimes use them to defend themselves against predators or to kill prey.

Grizzly Bear Paw Facts

Grizzly Bear Paw Size

As grizzlies are large animals[1], they also need large feet to support their weight.

You’d think that grizzly bears wouldn’t be very good runners, due to their large feet, but this is not the case. Grizzly bears can run up to 30 mph.

Related: How Fast Can a Bear Run?

How Strong Is a Grizzly Bear Paw Swipe?

Grizzly bears have some of the strongest paws in the animal kingdom. They use their powerful paws to dig for food, swipe at attackers, and to move objects.

When hunting, they typically use either their powerful bite or swipe. They’ve been known to kill smaller animals with just a single swipe of their paws.

Related: How Strong Are Bears?

How to Identify Grizzly Bear Paw Prints

Knowing how to identify grizzly bear paw prints is important for understanding the behavior of grizzlies and for safety reasons.

The size of grizzly bear paw prints can vary depending on the grizzly bear’s sex, age, and size[2]. Male grizzlies typically have larger paws than females. Cubs have much smaller paws than adults.

When identifying bear prints, know that grizzly bears’ prints are bigger than black bears. Their toes are also more aligned (horizontally).

Grizzly Bear Claw Facts

Grizzly Bear Claw Size

Claws are versatile tools, and something most carnivorous, land-bound animals have. Their claws can be used as a weapon against potential predators or prey, or they can be used as useful tools.

Grizzly bears typically use their paws for excavating dens, or for digging up roots. They’re also used for better grip while climbing.

Related: Can Grizzly Bears Climb Trees?

Besides using their claws as weapons, grizzly bears also use their claws to mark and rub trees. Even though it looks like the grizzly is just scratching an itch when doing so, research shows that it’s a mating habit.[3]

Grizzly Bear Claw Length

Grizzly bears are one of North America’s largest land predators. Their claws are not as big as polar bears, but they’re longer than those of black bears.

Their claws can reach up to four inches in length, and play an important role in grizzlies’ hunting and scavenging habits. Black bears’ claws are usually less than 2”.

How Sharp Are Grizzly Bears Claws?

Grizzly bear claws are very sharp. They are not just for show but play an integral part of the grizzly bear’s hunting and defensive arsenal.

Their claws are used to dig for food, climb trees, and catch prey. Their claws can also inflict serious injuries on people and other grizzly bears. They are sharp and curved, which allows grizzlies to easily tear into flesh.

Besides their claws, grizzly bears also have sharp teeth and a powerful bite, which they also use on prey.

Grizzly bears have a bite force of up to 1,100 PSI.

Related: Bear Bite Force

Grizzly Bear Paw vs. Polar Bear Paw Size

While polar bears have larger feet, their claws are smaller.

Grizzly bear claws are about 2-4 inches long, depending on the individual. Polar bear claws are smaller, about 3.75 inches, but they’re sharper.

There’s a good reason why polar bears have sharper claws: they’re used for better grip on ice.[4]

For most of their lives, polar bears roam around on the ice. If they don’t have a good grip, they would slip most of the time. In combination with this, the food-pads are laced with a slip-resistant substance.

Not only does it allow them to avoid slipping, but it allows them to run across the ice without any issues.

Polar bears are categorized as marine mammals. They spend a significant time in the water and need good paddles. The large paw size also helps them distribute their weight evenly when walking on ice.

Conclusion

Grizzly bear paws and claws are some of the most impressive features of the animal. They are large, strong, and sharp. Grizzly bears use their claws for a variety of activities, including digging, climbing trees, catching prey, and protecting themselves from danger.

Although grizzlies are not as common as black bears in North America, they should not be underestimated. Their size and strength make them one of the most powerful predators in the wilderness.

Slowly stalking through stands of conifers and golden aspens, you stop and cup your hand to your ear. There it is again, the sound, unmistakable and piercing. After days of trekking, you’ve finally heard the roar of a bull elk, and you’ve got him pinpointed. That’s when the stalk begins across the ridge. This is what you’ve been waiting for all year.

For us, there’s almost nothing better in this world than hearing elk sounds echo throughout the mountains. No other animal in North America sounds quite like it. And the different cadences are extraordinary. For the elk hunter, it’s important to understand exactly what these vocalizations mean. For instance, you want to know if the sounds you’re hearing are from a bull or cow, if they’re alert or calm. This will also help you become a better caller, allowing you to draw the animals in close enough for a shot.

Bugle

Even non-hunters can recognize a bugle from a bull elk. It’s a multi-tone sound that begins low and transitions into what can only be described as a loud scream. Bulls bugle during the rut when they’re seeking a mate. The vocalization also serves as a warning to other bulls in the area as a sign of dominance. While you can’t judge the size of a bull based on his bugle, it can be used as a beacon to pinpoint his location. Use the Back Country Elk Decoy and a bugle call to draw him into range. When the rut is in full swing, he won’t be able to resist the prospect of fighting off another male to protect his harem.

Glunking

This is a sound made by a bull that you may also hear during the rut. A glunk is a muffled bass sound, in single tones, one after the other in quick succession. The bull uses this vocalization to communicate with groups of cows. So if you hear this, there’s a good chance there are cows nearby as well.

Chuckle

Bulls will produce a chuckle at the end of a bugle. It sounds like a series of short, loud grunts. However, he may chuckle without bugling. This is another vocalization that is meant to express dominance to males and attract females. Many bugle calls can produce a chuckle, and it’s a great way to add variation to your call sequences.

Bark

This call is used by elk to alert the herd of danger. The vocalization is a single, sharp sound.

Typically, if you hear a bark, the whole herd will quickly disappear because they’ve spotted or winded you. Barks are bad and a sound you want to avoid hearing.

Cow in Estrus

Cows will use this vocalization during the rut to signify she is ready to breed. It sounds like a whine, similar to a bugle but not as high-pitched or as long. This is a handy call to keep in your bag, as this can be used to locate a herd or stop a bull when you’re ready to shoot.

Calf

A calf will sound similar to a cow, although the tone will be much lower. Typically, their calls will be single sounds, similar to a squeak. Much like whitetail does, cow elk will respond to the bleating of a lost calf. If you can pique the curiosity of a few cows with a calf call, they’ll come into bow range. If you’re hunting bulls this can also be advantageous as he’ll often follow cows to ensure his harem doesn’t get separated.

Chirp

This call is made by cows and bulls, often when a large herd is together. They’re general noises elk make when near each other, feeding contently. If you hear these sounds, you can expect a herd close by.

Whether you’re new to archery or a seasoned pro of the sport, you’ll likely be aware that your bow string being in good condition is crucial to being able to fire off a shot properly. If you don’t have a lot of experience in bow and string maintenance, you might find yourself wondering how long your bow string is likely to last before you need to replace it.

In short, the longevity of your bow string will depend on a number of factors, including the kinds of wear and tear that you subject it to, as well as how you look after it. Read on for our comprehensive look at how long bow strings last, and how to keep them in better shape, for longer.

Also don’t forget to check our roundup of the best recurve bow strings and the best bow string waxes.

A common ballpark figure for the lifespan of your average bow string is anywhere from three to five years. However, in reality, this can vary pretty widely, depending on how often you shoot your bow and how well you maintain the bow string itself.

There’s no major difference to the longevity of bow strings for compound vs. recurve bows. Generally, the main factors that determine how long your bow string lasts is the amount of use that it gets, as well as the draw weight a given bow has. A higher draw weight means the bow string is exposed to more force, which, in turn, causes it to wear out faster.

Another question worth asking is how often or how frequently you should generally replace your bow strings. Even if your bow string isn’t completely falling to pieces, that doesn’t mean you can still use it safely.

There’s no real consensus as to how often you need to replace bow strings. Most bow manufacturers recommend that you replace your bow string every year if it’s on a target bow, or every second year for a hunting bow. However, some manufacturers recommend that you replace your bow strings every two to three years, depending on the type of bow you’re shooting with.

Ultimately, the more often you shoot your bow, the more frequently you’ll need to restring it. And, it’s crucial that you don’t keep shooting with a bow that has a string in dire need of replacing. Worn out strings can cause serious injury if they snap when shot, for example.

Even if you wouldn’t expect to need to replace your bow string just yet, it’s wise to keep an eye on the kind of condition it’s in. We’d generally recommend that you inspect your bow string before each use. Depending on the poundage and wear and tear you subject your bow to, you may need to replace it sooner than anticipated.

One sign you might like to keep an eye out for is fraying of the string. Keep in mind that dryness of the bow string can also occur, and you can usually remedy this by waxing the string. However, if the bow string or serving is actually starting to fray, you’ll likely need to replace the string, or at the very least get it repaired.

Subtle changes in the tuning or performance of your bow may also be a sign that you need a new bow string. As bow strings stretch with use, they can feel less responsive and their timing can start to feel ‘off.’ If you notice this happening to your bow, then your best bet will generally be to get it inspected by a bow technician.

So, we’ve established the importance of properly maintaining your bow string if you want to extend its longevity. But, if you don’t have a lot of experience in bow maintenance, you might be wondering how to best take care of your bow string.

Easily the most important aspect of bow maintenance when it comes to your bow string will be waxing it regularly. The main purpose of waxing your bow string is to stop it from drying out. Waxing the bow string should also provide some form of protection from the elements in the case of harsh wind or sunlight, for example.

It’s also important that you store your bow in an environment with a stable climate. If you were to keep your bow in a room without much insulation, your bow would likely be subject to fluctuating temperatures. These changes in the temperature of the environment can disturb the tension in the bow string. You’ll want to be careful not to expose your bow to intense heat in particular.

If you shoot with recurves or longbows, then another great way to extend your bow string’s lifespan is by unstringing your bow when it’s not in use. This limits the amount of tension that your bow string is subject to and can help to dramatically extend its lifespan.

Given how important the bow string is in archery, it’s only natural that so many new archers worry about the implications of replacing and maintaining their bow strings. However, with proper maintenance, you should expect your bow string to last at least three years or so, though certain manufacturers will recommend that you replace the bow string before then.

In the animal kingdom, there are many creatures with impressive characteristics, but few can match the mighty bite force of a hippopotamus. With an astonishing capability of exerting around 1,800 psi (pounds per square inch) of force, the bite of a hippo is nothing short of extraordinary. Surprisingly, hippos surpass the likes of lions, tigers, and bears in terms of bite strength, and their jaws possess the ability to open at an astonishing 150 degrees with a mouth width ranging from 4 to 5 feet. As fearsome herbivores, hippos rely on their powerful bite not only for crushing and chewing tough vegetation but also as a formidable defense mechanism against potential predators like crocodiles, lions, and even humans. In fact, these powerful creatures are responsible for the tragic death of approximately 500 individuals every year, making them one of the most dangerous animals in Africa.

An Overview of Hippos’ Bite Force

Hippos, known for their massive size and intimidating presence, possess one of the most powerful bites in the animal kingdom. With a jaw strength capable of producing around 1,800 psi (pounds per square inch) of force, their bite can be quite formidable. This bite force surpasses that of even apex predators such as lions, tigers, and bears, cementing the fact that hippos are not to be underestimated.

Hippos’ Bite Force in the Animal Kingdom

Amongst the diverse range of animals in the animal kingdom, hippos stand out with their incredible bite force. The sheer power of their jaws allows them to exert immense pressure, making their bite force one of the highest recorded. This extraordinary ability showcases the strength and adaptability of these remarkable creatures.

Comparison to Other Animals

When comparing the bite force of hippos to other animals, it becomes evident just how formidable they truly are. While predators like lions, tigers, and bears are known for their strength, the bite force of a hippo surpasses even these mighty creatures. It is a testament to the immense power that resides within the jaws of a hippo.

Ability to Kill a Crocodile

Despite the formidable nature of crocodiles, hippos possess the strength and ability to defy the odds and overpower these reptilian predators. There have been recorded instances of hippos successfully killing crocodiles, showcasing their dominance in the animal kingdom. The combination of their powerful bite force and their natural defensive instincts enable them to prevail in these encounters.

The Anatomy of a Hippo’s Mouth

Understanding the anatomy of a hippo’s mouth provides valuable insights into the mechanisms behind their exceptional bite force.

Size of Their Mouths

One of the defining features of a hippo’s mouth is its size. With the ability to open their jaws up to 150 degrees, hippos possess large mouths that are designed to accommodate their substantial teeth and aid in their feeding habits. This generous mouth size contributes to their ability to generate such astonishing bite force.

Jaw Flexibility

A hippo’s jaw boasts impressive flexibility, allowing for a wide range of movement. This flexibility is essential in capturing and gripping food, as well as defending against potential threats. With a combination of strength and flexibility, hippos can maneuver their jaws with precision and force, maximizing the effectiveness of their bite.

Width of Their Jaws

In addition to their considerable size, a hippo’s jaws also possess significant width. Their mouths range from 4 to 5 feet wide, providing ample space for their teeth and facilitating the crushing and chewing of their food. The breadth of their jaws contributes to their ability to generate substantial bite force and aids in their overall feeding process.

Defense Mechanism Against Predators

Hippos’ powerful bite force serves as a formidable defense mechanism against potential predators, enabling them to protect themselves and their young.

Using Their Powerful Bite Force Against Predators

When confronted with threats such as crocodiles, lions, or humans, hippos utilize their powerful bite force as a primary line of defense. With the ability to inflict significant damage with a single bite, hippos can deter predators and potential attackers. The sheer force behind their jaws serves as a warning to those who dare approach.

Potential Threats Faced by Hippos

While hippos are known for their strength, they are not without vulnerabilities. In the face of predators, they must remain vigilant and cautious. The primary threats encountered by hippos include crocodiles, prides of lions, and even humans, who may encroach upon their territory or pose a danger to their calves.

How Their Bite Force Aids in Defense

The formidable bite force possessed by hippos plays a critical role in their defensive strategies. With a bite that can cause severe injury or even death, hippos can effectively deter predators. By utilizing their strong jaws, they can inflict significant damage upon attackers, giving them an advantage in confrontations. Their bite force allows them to establish dominance and protect their territories and young.

Hippos’ Diet and Their Bite Force

While hippos’ bite force is often associated with their defensive capabilities, it also plays a crucial role in their herbivorous diet.

Herbivorous Nature of Hippos

Contrary to their imposing stature and powerful jaws, hippos are herbivores. They primarily feed on grass and vegetation, spending several hours each day grazing and consuming large quantities of plant matter. Despite their voracious appetites, their diet consists entirely of plant-based material.

Specifics of Their Diet

The immense size and strength of a hippo’s jaws aid in their ability to crush and chew their food effectively. With their incisor and canine teeth adapted for grasping and tearing grasses, hippos rely on their molars and premolars, situated towards the back of their mouths, to grind and crush the fibrous vegetation. Their powerful bite force assists in breaking down the tough plant matter into more manageable pieces.

Role of Powerful Jaws and Teeth in Crushing and Chewing Food

Hippos’ strong jaws and teeth are essential tools in their dietary process. The crushing force generated by their bite allows them to break down the tough plant material, aiding in digestion. Additionally, their large teeth and wide jaws provide the necessary leverage to not only grip vegetation but also effectively chew and grind it down to a more easily digestible form.

Testing Female Hippos’ Bite Force

Due to the inherent risks associated with testing male hippos, researchers have focused on measuring the bite force of female hippos instead.

Implications of Testing Female Hippos

Testing the bite force of female hippos provides valuable insights into the capabilities of these creatures without posing unnecessary risks to the researchers involved. By focusing on female hippos, the data obtained can still provide a comprehensive understanding of their bite force and contribute to the overall knowledge surrounding these impressive animals.

Reasons for Not Testing Male Hippos

Male hippos, known for their territorial nature and aggressive behavior, represent a significant threat when it comes to conducting bite force tests. Their unpredictable nature and potentially volatile responses make it unsafe to engage in such measurements. As a result, researchers opt to study female hippos instead, ensuring their safety while gathering valuable information.

Procedure and Results of Bite Force Testing on Females

To measure the bite force of female hippos, researchers employ various methods. By equipping a specialized device with pressure sensors, they can capture the force exerted during a bite. By carefully provoking a bite response from a cooperative female hippo, researchers can obtain accurate and reliable data regarding their bite force. Such measurements contribute to our understanding of hippos’ capabilities and behaviors.

Hippos: One of Africa’s Most Dangerous Animals

While hippos may be perceived by some as lovable creatures, they are, in fact, one of Africa’s most dangerous animals, responsible for a significant number of fatalities each year.

Annual Death Toll Caused by Hippos

Hippos are responsible for approximately 500 deaths annually, making them one of the most dangerous animals in Africa. Their imposing size, territorial nature, and aggressive behavior contribute to these fatalities. It is essential to exercise caution and respect their space when encountering these animals in their natural habitats.

Comparison to Other Dangerous Animals in Africa

When comparing the danger posed by hippos to other notorious African animals, such as lions, elephants, or crocodiles, it becomes evident that hippos rank high on the list. Their confrontational nature and incredible strength make them a formidable force, and encounters can quickly escalate if precautions are not taken.

Factors Contributing to Hippos’ Dangerous Nature

Various factors contribute to the dangerous nature of hippos. Their territorial behavior, especially when defending their young, can lead to aggressive encounters. Additionally, their powerful bite force, which can cause severe injury or even death, further enhances their dangerous reputation. Understanding these factors is crucial in promoting coexistence and ensuring the safety of both humans and hippos.

Hippos’ Bite Force in the Animal Kingdom

To understand the significance of hippos’ bite force, it is important to delve deeper into its measurements and comparisons to other animals.

Overview of Hippos’ Powerful Bite Force

Hippos’ bite force is measured in pounds per square inch (psi) and typically registers at around 1,800 psi. This measurement places hippos amongst the upper echelons of the animal kingdom in terms of bite force capability. Their jaw strength and the pressure they can exert showcase the remarkable power packed within their formidable bodies.

Measurement in Pounds Per Square Inch (psi)

The bite force of a hippo is measured in pounds per square inch, which indicates the amount of force exerted over a given area. With hippos demonstrating bite forces of approximately 1,800 psi, it is clear that their bite is a remarkable force to be reckoned with.

Impressive Strength Compared to Other Animals

When comparing hippos’ bite force to other animals renowned for their strength, such as lions, tigers, and bears, hippos emerge as the clear victors. Their surpassing bite force showcases the immense power they possess and establishes them as one of nature’s true heavyweights.

Comparing Hippos’ Bite Force to Other Animals

To further appreciate the astonishing bite force of hippos, it is worthwhile to compare them to other formidable predators.

Hippos vs. Lions

While lions are often lauded as the kings of the animal kingdom, their bite force falls short in comparison to that of hippos. A lion’s bite force typically ranges from 600 to 700 psi, making them significantly less powerful in this regard. In a direct confrontation, a hippo’s bite force would undoubtedly give it the upper hand.

Hippos vs. Tigers

Tigers, renowned for their prowess as apex predators, possess a bite force that is greater than that of lions but still inferior to that of hippos. A tiger’s bite force ranges from 1,050 to 1,200 psi, making it formidable in its own right, but unable to match the jaw strength of a hippo.

Hippos vs. Bears

Bears, known for their strength and size, possess a bite force that rivals that of lions but still falls short of a hippo’s bite force. With a bite force ranging from 700 to 1,200 psi, bears are formidable predators, but they are outmatched by the sheer power generated by hippos when it comes to biting.

Hippos’ Bite: Capable of Killing a Crocodile

One of the most astonishing demonstrations of hippos’ bite force is their ability to kill crocodiles, despite the reptiles being known for their powerful jaws.

Unique Ability to Overpower Crocodiles

Crocodiles, being formidable predators themselves, are not easily overtaken. However, hippos possess the strength and bite force required to successfully overpower and kill crocodiles in certain circumstances. This ability showcases the exceptional power and force generated by a hippo’s jaws.

Evidence of Hippos Killing Crocodiles

Various instances have been documented showcasing hippos successfully killing crocodiles. While this might seem surprising given the reputations of both species as fierce predators, it highlights the superior bite force of hippos and their capacity to dominate encounters with crocodiles.

Factors Enabling Hippos to Prevail in These Encounters

Several factors contribute to hippos’ ability to prevail in encounters with crocodiles. Their massive size, combined with their powerful bite force, gives them a significant advantage. Additionally, the territorial nature of hippos when defending their territories, particularly against crocodiles, further solidifies their dominance in these interactions. Ultimately, it is the combination of strength, force, and strategy that allows hippos to overcome crocodiles, solidifying their position as apex predators.

The Physical Features of a Hippo’s Mouth

Exploring the physical features of a hippo’s mouth provides a deeper understanding of its capabilities and adaptations.

Size and Dimensions of a Hippo’s Mouth

A hippo’s mouth is a marvel of nature, characterized by its substantial size and dimensions. With jaws that can open up to 150 degrees, hippos possess mouths capable of accommodating their powerful teeth and aiding in their feeding habits. The vast expanse of their mouths is a crucial factor in generating the remarkable bite force for which they are known.

Range of Jaw Movement

In addition to their size, hippos’ jaws boast a remarkable range of movement. This flexibility allows for effective capturing and gripping of food, as well as facilitating defensive actions. The extensive range of jaw movement contributes to the overall functionality of a hippo’s mouth, enhancing their capabilities in various aspects of their lives.

Mouth Structure and Adaptations

A hippo’s mouth is specifically adapted to its herbivorous diet and its overall lifestyle. From the positioning and shape of their teeth to the structure of their jawbones and muscles, every aspect of their oral anatomy is optimized for crushing and chewing vegetation. These adaptations ensure their mouth’s effectiveness in both defensive situations and feeding processes, further emphasizing the significance of a hippo’s bite force.

In conclusion, hippos possess an impressive bite force that exceeds that of many other animals in the animal kingdom. Their powerful jaws, large mouths, and immense bite force make them formidable predators and a force to be reckoned with. Whether defending themselves against predators or exhibiting their dominance among rivals, hippos showcase unparalleled strength and adaptability. With their powerful bite force, hippos can hold their own against other apex predators, overpower crocodiles, and establish their dominance in their natural habitat. Understanding the anatomy, diet, and defensive capabilities of these incredible beings sheds light on their significance and the inherent dangers associated with their presence.

Hunting hogs can be a challenging task, requiring specialized equipment for success. Among the most crucial pieces of gear is the thermal scope, designed to provide a clear view of the target even in low-light conditions.

Thermal scopes work by detecting heat signatures emitted by animals, converting these into a visible image displayed on the scope’s screen. This technology allows hunters to spot hogs from a considerable distance, even when hidden in tall grass or behind obstacles. Apart from improving visibility, thermal scopes also offer advanced features like range finding, multiple reticle options, and image capturing capabilities, enhancing the overall hunting experience.

However, the market for thermal scopes is saturated with numerous models and brands, making the selection process daunting even for seasoned hunters. ATN, a renowned name in the optics industry, offers a range of thermal scopes specifically tailored for hog hunting. The ATN THOR series includes various models, each with its unique set of features, aiming to fulfill the diverse needs of hunters. In this comprehensive review, we’ll explore four series from ATN: THOR 5 XD, THOR 5, THOR 4, and THOR LTV.

Features of Hog Hunting

The unique behavior and habitat of hogs make them a challenging target for any hunter. Unlike other game animals that rely on speed or agility, hogs have a keen sense of smell and hearing, which they utilize to evade predators. These nocturnal creatures have adapted to human activity, becoming increasingly difficult to hunt during daylight hours. As a result, the need for specialized equipment has grown, particularly for those who engage in hog hunting.

The dense, often swampy terrains where hogs are usually found add another layer of complexity to the hunting process. Natural obstacles like tall grass, bushes, and trees can obstruct a clear line of sight, making it difficult to spot and aim at the target. The ability to see through these barriers becomes a significant advantage, and this is where thermal scopes come into play.

Thermal scopes offer a clear advantage by allowing hunters to detect heat signatures from a distance, providing a distinct outline of the animal. This feature becomes increasingly useful in the dark, when traditional optics fall short. Thermal scopes can penetrate fog, smoke, and even light foliage, giving the hunter a clear picture of the field and any potential targets.

Another important consideration is the hog’s natural behavior to travel in groups, known as sounders. When one hog detects danger, it alerts the rest of the group, making it crucial for hunters to accurately identify and target a specific animal without alarming others. Advanced thermal scopes offer zooming capabilities and multiple reticle options that assist in precise targeting, increasing the chances of a successful hunt.

Given these challenges and requirements, choosing the right thermal scope becomes a vital aspect for any serious hog hunter. ATN’s THOR series promises to offer solutions tailored to these specific needs, backed by years of research and technological advancements.

ATN THOR 5 XD Series

The ATN THOR 5 XD Series is a premier line of thermal scopes designed for the demanding requirements of hog hunting. With state-of-the-art technology, this series offers unparalleled performance, ensuring that hunters can operate efficiently in various conditions.

Before diving into the specifics, it’s essential to understand the core features that make this series stand out:

• High-resolution thermal sensor.
• Smart shooting solutions.
• Video recording capabilities.
• Extended battery life.
• Ballistic calculator.

The thermal vision sensor in the THOR 5 XD series provides a crisp and clear image and is also the largest sensor on the US market, ensuring that you never miss your target. The sensor’s high resolution makes it easier to spot hogs even in challenging environments, such as dense forests or swampy areas.

The series comes equipped with smart shooting solutions that simplify the targeting process. With just a few clicks, you can set the range and wind conditions, allowing the scope to adjust the point of impact automatically. This feature significantly enhances accuracy, crucial for a successful thermal rifle scope for hog hunting.

Capturing the action is no longer a hassle, thanks to the built-in video recording feature. Whether it’s for personal keepsakes or sharing your hunting experience, the THOR 5 XD Series makes it possible without additional equipment.

One of the significant concerns for any electronic device is battery life. The THOR 5 XD Series addresses this by offering an extended battery life, ensuring that you never run out of power during crucial moments.

The built-in ballistic calculator takes the guesswork out of long-range shooting. By inputting data such as bullet type, muzzle velocity, and environmental conditions, the scope calculates the perfect trajectory, ensuring a precise shot every time.

The THOR 5 XD Series also offers a range of customization options, including various reticle patterns and color options. These add-ons enhance the user experience, allowing you to tailor the scope to your specific needs.

In terms of durability, the scopes in this series are built to last. Made from high-quality materials, they are both water and shock-resistant, making them suitable for harsh hunting environments.

When it comes to vision and battery, two aspects that often concern hunters, this series excels in both. The high-quality optics ensure excellent vision in various lighting conditions, while the extended battery life minimizes the need for frequent charge, letting you focus on the hunt.

Overall, the ATN THOR 5 XD Series offers a comprehensive package for serious hog hunters, combining advanced technology with user-friendly features. It is an investment that promises to enhance your hunting experience significantly.

ATN THOR 5 Series

The ATN THOR 5 Series is another exceptional offering that caters to the nuanced demands of hog hunting. Designed with both novice and seasoned hunters in mind, this series offers a balance of advanced technology and ease of use. It stands out for its remarkable sensitivity, enabling hunters to detect minute temperature differences between the target and its surroundings. This high sensitivity is particularly useful in Texas, where the landscape can vary dramatically, affecting visibility conditions.

List of key features:

1. High-sensitivity thermal sensor for exceptional image clarity.
2. User-friendly interface for easy navigation and settings adjustments.
3. Smart shooting solutions for automatic targeting based on range and wind conditions.
4. Extended battery life due to energy-efficient design.
5. Robust construction, including water and shock resistance.
6. Video recording capabilities for capturing hunting experiences.

Just like its counterpart, the THOR 5 Series features a high-resolution thermal sensor. The quality of the images is outstanding, making it easier to spot hogs hidden behind obstacles or foliage. The sensor works in real time, providing continuous updates, which is crucial for tracking moving targets.

A significant advantage of the THOR 5 Series is its user-friendly interface. With intuitive controls, hunters can easily navigate through various settings, making adjustments as needed. The scope also includes smart shooting solutions similar to those in the THOR 5 XD Series, allowing for automatic adjustments based on range and wind conditions. These features ensure that the THOR 5 Series serves as an excellent tool for hog hunting, allowing for quick and accurate shots.

Battery life is often a concern when it comes to electronic hunting gear. The THOR 5 Series addresses this issue effectively. The energy-efficient design ensures that the scope can run for extended periods, reducing the frequency of charge and allowing you to focus on the hunt.

Another noteworthy aspect is the series’ robust construction. Crafted from durable materials, the scope is designed to withstand the rigors of outdoor use. The shock-resistant design also adds to its durability, ensuring that the scope remains functional even after accidental drops or impacts.

The THOR 5 Series also offers video recording capabilities, allowing hunters to capture their experiences. This feature is particularly useful for those who wish to analyze their performance post-hunt or share their adventures with others.

ATN THOR 4 Series

The ATN THOR 4 Series offers another layer of sophistication and reliability for those serious about hog hunting. This series is particularly noted for its power efficiency and precision, making it a go-to choice for hunters looking for a blend of performance and durability.

Here are some of the defining features of the ATN THOR 4 Series:

• Advanced thermal sensor for vivid imagery.
• Multiple reticle options for versatile targeting.
• Power-efficient design for prolonged use.
• Integrated ballistic calculator for accurate shots.
• Streamlined user interface for quick adjustments.

The thermal sensor in the THOR 4 Series is highly advanced, providing vivid images that make spotting and tracking hogs easier. The high-quality sensor ensures that you get clear and crisp views, which is particularly useful for thermal optics for hog hunting.

One of the standout features of this series is the multiple reticle options. These allow for more versatile targeting, enabling you to adapt quickly to different hunting situations. Whether you’re dealing with moving targets or varying distances, the flexibility offered by these reticles can be invaluable.

Power efficiency is one of the key attributes of the THOR 4 Series. The scope’s design ensures minimal power consumption, allowing for extended periods of use without requiring frequent battery charges. Accuracy is a critical factor in hunting, and the THOR 4 Series excels in this aspect. The integrated ballistic calculator helps in determining the most accurate shots, taking into account various factors like wind speed, range, and the ballistic coefficient of the bullet being used.

The user interface is straightforward and easy to navigate, enabling quick adjustments to settings as required. Whether it’s switching between different reticle options or adjusting the zoom, the THOR 4 Series allows for swift modifications, ensuring you never miss an opportune moment.

Additional features include a sturdy construction that can withstand harsh conditions. The scopes are water-resistant and shock-resistant, ensuring durability and long-term use.

In summary, the ATN THOR 4 Series brings a suite of advanced features designed to enhance the hog hunting experience. From its sophisticated thermal sensor to its versatile reticle options and power-efficient design, this series provides a well-rounded package for any serious hunter.

ATN THOR LTV Series

The ATN THOR LTV Series is designed for hunters who prioritize simplicity without compromising on essential features. Though not as feature-rich as other models in the THOR lineup, the LTV Series focuses on providing the most crucial functions needed for effective hog hunting. This makes it an excellent choice for those who prefer a more streamlined, user-friendly experience.

Key features of the ATN THOR LTV Series include:

• Compact and lightweight design for easy portability.
• Essential thermal imaging for basic targeting needs.
• Long-lasting battery for extended use.
• Simplified user interface for immediate adjustments.

One of the highlights of the LTV Series is its compact and lightweight design. Unlike some of the heavier scopes in the THOR lineup, the LTV models are easier to carry and handle, making them ideal for long hunting expeditions. The LTV Series offers essential thermal imaging capabilities. While it may not provide the high-resolution imagery seen in more advanced models, it offers sufficient clarity for basic targeting needs, especially when dealing with hogs that are often found in challenging terrains.

When hunting, time is often of the essence. The LTV Series impresses with its quick startup time, ensuring that the scope is ready for use almost immediately upon activation. This feature is particularly useful for spontaneous hunting opportunities. Battery life is a crucial consideration for any thermal scope, and the LTV Series does not disappoint. Its long-lasting battery ensures that you have enough power for extended periods, reducing the need for frequent recharging or battery replacement.

The user interface in the LTV Series is simplified, making it incredibly easy to use. Basic settings and adjustments can be made quickly, allowing you to focus more on the hunt rather than fiddling with complicated menus.

In addition to the above features, the LTV Series also offers durability with its rugged construction. The scopes are built to withstand various environmental conditions, ensuring reliability during your hunting expeditions.

In conclusion, the ATN THOR LTV Series is a solid choice for hunters looking for a straightforward, reliable thermal scope. While it may lack some of the advanced features found in other THOR models, it excels in providing the essentials, making it a practical option for various hunting scenarios.

Conclusion

After a comprehensive review of the ATN THOR series, it’s evident that each model offers a unique set of features tailored to different hunting needs. From the high-end THOR 5 XD Series, known for its advanced thermal sensor and smart shooting solutions, to the simpler yet effective LTV Series, ATN has a scope for every hunter.

The THOR 5 Series stands out as the best thermal scope for hog hunting, providing a harmonious blend of advanced technology and user-friendly features. Its high-resolution thermal sensor, smart shooting solutions, and extended battery life make it a prime choice for those seeking the best in both functionality and ease of use.

While the THOR 5 Series offers an excellent balance of technology and user-friendliness, the THOR 4 Series is notable for its power efficiency and multiple reticle options. The LTV Series, although simpler, doesn’t compromise on essential features, making it ideal for those who prefer straightforward, effective equipment.

Choosing a hog hunting thermal scope should suit your specific needs and preferences. Whether you prioritize advanced optics, extended battery life, or a user-friendly interface, the ATN THOR series offers a range of options to enhance your hog hunting experience. ATN has managed to create a lineup of thermal scopes that cater to a variety of hunting styles and requirements. The brand continues to uphold its reputation for quality and innovation, making it a go-to choice for serious hunters.

I posed the following, seemingly simple question to the members of my Upland Journal Forums, and to hardcore bird hunters, weekend warriors, dog trainers, upland guides, field trialers, breeders, and sporting lodge owners: What is your chosen ruffed grouse hunting dog breed, what is it that you most like about them, and why have you stuck with them?

The answers were anything but simple. The truth is there is no best single breed of dog for hunting ruffed grouse. This has become clear to me after four decades of hunting grouse over most of the flushing and pointing breeds.

Unless someone is irrevocably breed blind, most bird dog people will readily agree. I was pleasantly surprised at how gracious those who contributed to my research were when discussing hunting dogs, even dog breeds that were not the ones they chose to run. Dog guys like dogs.

One thing that is completely agreed upon is that good breeding and diligent training are essential, but those characteristics can only go so far in developing the dog as a grouse dog.

Serious grouse hunters believe that bird contacts are paramount to developing a grouse dog, particularly in breeds that point. The grouse themselves teach the dogs how to handle grouse. Dogs just have to see a load of ruffed grouse — hundreds of them — before graduating from a bird dog to a “legit grouse dog.” Some dogs never get to wear the cap and tassel, some become good, and very few become great.

Why is that the case? Because ruffed grouse are arguably the hardest game bird for any dog to handle, and without question one of the most challenging for the wing shooter. There are a tremendous number of variables and preferences and expectations that impact the choosing and settling on a breed for ruffed grouse hunting.

Not all of the variables have to do with grouse. Some are directly related to a particular dog owner’s personality, or where they reside, or the time they have to hunt, and the type of grouse cover they typically hunt.

Will the dog be hunting small micro covers, or huge expansive cutovers? Will it be trained for field trials as well as hunting? Will it stay in the house and sleep on the bed? Will it perform double duty as a waterfowl dog? Will it shed like the dickens? The list is endless.

For some it’s basically the breed dear old dad always had, or a breed a person read about, or hunted over, or in many instances just plain liked the looks of.

In this article I’ll concentrate on two popular flushing breeds and three pointing breeds, and why people prefer these dogs for hunting ruffed grouse. This is in no way a poor reflection on other breeds. Remember what I said: There is no best grouse dog breed.

ENGLISH COCKERS: Big Hunt In A Small Package

There is little doubt that Field Bred English Cocker Spaniels or FBECS’s have experienced an upsurge in popularity for upland bird hunting. These little bird-seeking missiles are not to be confused with American Cocker Spaniels, which are bred for looks and as pets. And FBECS’s are not just small field-bred English Springer Spaniels (the springer, by the way, is my personal breed of choice). Do not make the mistake of muttering such a thing in a room of spaniel enthusiasts. They may have been separated by size centuries ago, but have developed their own unique personalities, yet retained all the best characteristics.

This flushing dog weighs in as small as 20 pounds and upwards of 35 pounds for a large male, and come in a variety of colors. I spoke to the owner of a guiding operation in northern Maine, who runs both FBEC’s and English Pointers, and he described them as having the heart of a big dog and the cuddle of a lapdog.

He not only uses them for hunting ruffed grouse, but also as non-slip retrievers with his pointers, where they flush and retrieve ahead of a point. Another friend of mine owns a well known Orvis-endorsed hunting and fishing operation in Maine. His personal dogs, which he hunts and guides with, are FBEC’s. Most of his guides run pointing breeds. Pointing dogs are traditional for grouse so most clients request hunting over them. But according to him, at the end of the day when the bragging begins, the cockers do as well if not better in finding birds and providing shots on grouse.

Owners of FBECS’s gush over their little charges. They love the dogs’ temperaments, house manners, trainability, and their remarkably manageable size.

That’s all well and good but can they handle and produce ruffed grouse for the average bird hunter? You bet they can. The consensus from those I spoke with is they are the right dog to hunt in poor scenting conditions, such as hot and windy days — situations that can compromise other dogs. They burrow intro the thick of cover, work close, roust out grouse to the gun, and retrieve crisply to hand. They are just plain fun to be around, and they can sit on your lap and lick your face on the drive home. What more can a bird hunter ask of a grouse dog?

LABRADOR RETRIEVERS: A Model For Every Grouse Hunter

Labrador Retrievers remind me of the venerable 12-gauge shotgun. They can do it all. The Lab has really made its mark in the ruffed grouse woods, and those running them never feel under gunned.

Although there are breed lines of pointing Labs, I’m focusing on flushing retrievers. They are hard to beat when you include their perpetually positive attitude and enthusiasm. These workhorses come in variety of sizes, depending on the breeding — from huge, block-headed, otter-tailed, cattail busters to smaller, more agile, and athletic dogs — which are increasingly popular with grouse hunters. They are black, chocolate or yellow and despite some opinions, all can make great hunters. Their wonderful personalities have made them a choice as pets for non-hunters, so always seek out a hunting line of Labs if you want one to team up with you to hunt grouse.

If properly trained they simply produce bird after bird for the gun and, being the consummate retriever, are unmatched in finding cripples and bringing any bird to hand.

Lab owners are extremely loyal to their breed, like their dogs are to them. They point out the unparalleled trust and teamwork they experience while hunting with their Labs. A particularly successful grouse hunter from Michigan I spoke with, who champions the smaller, more agile 50-pound Labs for grouse, expressed that a well bred Labrador is smart, easy to train, and can bounce back from training mistakes. Known for their overall durability, they can hunt in all conditions and cover types. When these grouse hunters empty the birds from their vests at the end of a hunt, the reason for running their labs for ruffed grouse is plain to see.

ENGLISH SETTERS: Grace And Beauty In The Woods

There is no question the English Setter is the quintessential and traditional grouse hunting dog. The sheer volume of responses I received from ES lovers proved that point.

This breed has gotten a load of ink in most classic grouse hunting literature, and is well represented in sporting art, for good reason. For a pointing dog they are the whole package of beauty, elegance, temperament and — best of all — they work on ruffed grouse.

Setters generally come in two types: Ryman and Llewellyn. The Ryman being a larger, closer working, and more methodical birddog that foot hunters prefer. Llewellyn’s are a smaller, faster bird-finding machine that hardcore hunters and field trailers gravitate to.

Regardless of type, they all share a gentle nature and picture perfect looks, as well as a good nose. Some of my Setter friends and contacts readily admit they prefer a slightly slower-moving dog that they can see and enjoy as it weaves through a fall cover, with the tinkling of a bell only adding to the experience. They live for the feathery classic point, and shooting at a bird is an afterthought.

Others want a firecracker that sizzles through the woods, reaching way out in search of birds, with the distant staccato beep from a collar signaling a point. After a location is found on the GPS receiver, they head into the cover and like to be rewarded with an opportunity for a shot. This is a breed that can fit differing personalities.

I’ve heard more legends of English Setters being good or great grouse dogs than any other breed. That might be a product of their popularity, or it might be why they are so popular. It doesn’t matter: they are a proven breed for grouse hunting and look damn stylish doing it. I heard from a fair share of earnest grouse hunters who experimented with a lot of dog breeds until they found their nirvana with English Setters.

GERMAN SHORTHAIRED POINTER: Bulletproof And Versatile

I have many friends and acquaintances who run GSP’s. That should say something about their popularity and effectiveness on grouse, given we live smack dab in ruffed grouse country.

And I had the pleasure of hunting over a particularly good one. I was impressed by this dog’s no-nonsense, workmanlike hunting style. He knew how to handle and point the skittish, if not schizoid, ruffed grouse found in mid-Maine, without a lot of showing off or fanfare. I think this is true of most dogs of this versatile breed.

That dog is over the rainbow bridge but the owner is now feeding two more GSP’s. I asked him why he sticks with them. He made the analogy that GSP’s are the Toyota Tacoma of the grouse hunting breeds. They are tough, dependable, and rarely break down. GSP owners relish the strength and durability and easy maintenance of their dogs, along with their ability to chill out in the house, but turn it on in the woods. Being a short-haired breed, little if any time needs to be wasted combing out burrs on the tailgate, leaving more time to hit the next cover.

I received input from a gentleman who runs a popular birddog website who hunts his shorthairs in a multiple of states and Canadian provinces. He expressed how his dogs consistently hunt at a comfortable range for the foot hunter, are staunch on a pinned grouse, but naturally relocate until they crack into a solid point when they hit the scent cone. A plus is they are largely natural retrievers, so few birds are lost. Versatile is the operative word; when not pointing grouse they can take on part-time work in a boat or blind retrieving waterfowl, and are handsome to boot.

BRITTANYS: The Whole Package In A Compact Size

These medium-sized, hard-working pointing dogs are rumored to have originated as poachers’ dogs, and are termed by some as “meat dogs.”

There’s nothing derogatory about that as far as I’m concerned, since despite all the aesthetics prevalent in grouse hunting lore, ultimately we are trying to add protein to our game vest.

This breed was originally dubbed a spaniel but the “spaniel” was officially removed in 1982. You have two choices of field stock Britts: American or French Brittany. Generally the American Britt is larger, lankier, and a bigger runner by design. The French Britt is more compact and generally a tighter worker. But despite “spaniel” being dropped from their name, both types have the merry, exuberant and biddable personality of a spaniel, with the point and the retrieve built in.

Britt owners I spoke with were a pragmatic group who weren’t enamored with classic high-tailed points (which is a good thing since Britts tails are docked). Britt owners appreciated the work ethic, nose and tenacity of their dogs.

A very good friend of mine who passed away a few years back adored his Brittanys, and I’ve never seen a closer bond than he had with his dogs. I had the privilege of grouse hunting with him in the states and in Canada. He was a solitary fellow, and when we met back at the truck, there was always a gleam in his eye, a grouse or two in hand, and of course a Britt by his side. If I get a pointing dog to add to my arsenal, it would likely be a Brittany.

You can’t go wrong with any of the breeds covered here if the dog is well bred, trained to your needs and expectations, and you put the dog on a load of grouse. Finding your breed for hunting ruffed grouse is like finding a spouse. There are matches made in heaven, but also mismatches. The trick is to date and play the field until you fall in love, and know when to throw in the towel and try another breed that fits you best.

Ultimately, at the end of the hunt, the measure of a grouse dog could be as simple as whether you enjoyed hunting with it, not how high a pile of feathers you’ve built by the end of a season.