The best fixed blade broadheads are ones that have razor-sharp blades, fly like field points from your bow, and inflict maximum damage. We all want that short blood trail to the buck of our dreams.
In this article, we look at what we feel are the 9 best fixed-blade broadheads on the market in 2024. These are broadheads we have tried and tested and wouldn’t hesitate to screw onto the ends of our own arrows this fall.
I’ll give my usual caveat here: while we have our favorite broadheads for various game and situations, there is truly no one ‘best’ option. Also keep in mind that broadheads for crossbows often have different requirements, so we have a whole other article for those.
Which broadhead works best for you will depend on a variety of factors, including your bow setup, arrow selection, ability to tune your bow, and a little bit of personal preference.
As the name implies, fixed blade broadheads have no moving parts. The blades are fixed in position. In some cases, fixed blade broadheads are machined from one piece of steel, so the blades and the ferrule are formed together. That is the case with the G5 Montec broadheads featured above.
Most fixed blade broadheads, however, have replaceable blades that attache to the ferrule in various ways. This is a great feature, because if a blade or blades become dull or damaged, you can simply replace the blade without having to try to sharpen it or replace the entire broadhead.
Pros and Cons of Fixed Blade Broadheads
Features to Consider
Broadhead Weight
Most fixed blade broadheads are going to come in either 85, 100, 125 or 150 grains, with 100 grains being the most common. Any of these will work effectively. It’s really a matter of your overall arrow or bolt setup as to which weight you choose. If you’re just going with a standard mid-weight arrow setup, then I’d recommend sticking with a 100 grain broadhead because they are readily available and will get the job done. However, if you’re like me and prefer a heavier arrow setup with a little higher FOC, then a 125 or even a 150 grain may be your best bet.
The past two seasons I’ve shot 150 grain broadheads on my compound bow setup, and I’ve been extremely happy with the results. This year I may go with the 125 grain Slick Trick Magnum broadheads, which should still work fine. I can always add another 25 grain weight to my insert if I wanted to keep the overall weight the same, but I really don’t think that will be necessary.
Blade Thickness
Blade thickness is an important factor when choosing the best fixed blade broadhead for your setup. It’s going to determine how well your broadheads hold up when they make contact with an animal — especially if they come in contact with any bone. Blade thickness is especially important if you’re shooting a one-piece broadhead with blades that will require sharpening.
If you’re shooting a broadhead with replaceable blades, blade thickness isn’t quite as critical, but you still don’t want the broadhead coming apart as it passes through the chest cavity of a mature buck.
Number of Blades
In your quest to find the best fixed blade broadhead, you may wonder if you should you shoot a two, three, or four-blade broadhead? First off, let me say that any of those three options will get the job done. Like most things in life, there’s tradeoffs to each option. A two-blade broadhead is going to have less resistance, so it will be more likely to pass thru an animal. The tradeoff to that reduced resistance and increased penetration is less overall tissue damage and a smaller blood trail.
Three and four-blade broadheads, on the other hand, should produce a larger wound channel and better blood trail. And while they will have more resistance than a two-blade, as long as you’re shooting a heavy enough arrow setup, penetration shouldn’t be an issue.
Cutting Diameter
Cutting diameter is another important factor when choosing a fixed blade broadhead. Similar to the discussion above about the number of blades a broadhead should have, cutting diameter will impact penetration and the subsequent blood trail. A smaller cutting diameter will have less resistance and will be more likely to pass through, but it will also create a smaller wound channel. That smaller hole will me less overall tissue damage and a smaller blood trail.
That leaves you having to strike a balance between getting a solid pass-thru shot and still inflicting as much damage as possible for a good, short blood trail. Other factors in that decision will be your bow setup and overall arrow setup. If you shoot a lower poundage, short draw length, or a light arrow setup, then you will want to err on the side of smaller cutting diameter to ensure a pass-thru shot.
My preference is a 1 1/4 to 1 1/2-inch cutting diameter from a fixed blade broadhead.
Replaceable Blades vs One-Piece Design
This is another personal preference decision you’ll need to make when choosing the best fixed blade broadhead for your setup. What it really boils down to is, are you comfortable sharpening your broadhead blades? If not, then you need a broadhead with replaceable blades. That way, after you’ve dulled a broadhead from practice shooting or in a hunting situation, you can simply toss the dull blades and install new, razor-sharp ones.
If you are comfortable sharpening your blades, then a one-piece design may be the way to go. A one-piece broadhead is typically going to be tougher and more durable than one with replaceable blades. There are certainly exceptions to that statement but as a rule, it’s true.
Solid vs Vented Blade Design
This is one I see debated at times, but in my mind is a non-issue. The biggest concern I’ve seen discussed with vented broadhead blades is the whistling noise they can make in flight. I’ve seen bowhunters concerned that the noise can alert deer and result in them “jumping the string.” I’ve shot plenty of vented blade broadheads and have never witnessed any issues that I felt were the result of broadhead noise.
The one valid argument for using a solid blade design over a vented blade is that the solid blade is going to be a little stronger and less likely to bend or break. The downside to a solid blade design is that it could result in increased planing in flight, which could result in erratic flight from bows that aren’t perfectly tuned.
Final Thoughts
Choosing the best fixed blade broadhead is not easy. There are tons of options on the market today, and all of them will kill a deer with proper shot placement. That’s not to say, however, that some options aren’t much better than others. To narrow down your choice, use the factors outlined above, and you should find one or more great options from our list above.
Ultimately, you won’t go wrong with any of the broadheads listed above, but hopefully this article will help you find the best fixed blade broadhead for your specific needs.
Trolling fishing is a popular technique used by anglers to catch this prized freshwater game fish. The method involves dragging one or more baited lines or lures behind a moving boat at varying speeds and depths until a walleye takes the bait.
Trolling for walleye can be done on freshwater lakes or rivers, and requires specialized equipment and techniques to be successful. Walleye trolling can be a fun and challenging way to target these elusive fish and is a favorite among many anglers.
Walleye trolling has been practiced for many years, with the first recorded use of this technique dating back to the early 1900s.
At the time, anglers used hand-cranked reels to drag baited lines behind their boats.
As technology improved, the method became more efficient with the development of electric trolling motors and other specialized equipment.
Today, walleye trolling is a popular sport enjoyed by anglers all over the world, and has even led to the development of specialized boats and equipment designed specifically for this type of fishing.
Despite the advancements in technology, the basic principles of trolling fishing for walleye remain the same – drag a baited line or lure behind a moving boat to attract and catch walleye.
Essential Gear for Successful Walleye Trolling Fishing
To be successful at trolling fishing for walleye, you’ll need a few key pieces of equipment.
The first is a trolling rod and reel setup, which should be strong enough to handle the weight of your lures and the fight of a walleye.
Look for a trolling rod that is at least 7 feet in length and has a medium-heavy power rating. Using a sensitive fishing rod can aid in detecting bites and setting the hook properly
Opting for a reel with a smooth drag system can assist in wearing down a walleye and reducing the risk of line breakage. A drag system that is rated for at least 10-12 pounds can help you handle a larger walleye.
The Penn Fathom Lever Drag 2 is an excellent option to consider.
With its user-friendly design and lever drag system, this reel provides a smooth and intuitive experience.
A level wind reel is ideal for trolling, as it distributes line evenly across the spool and can help prevent tangles.
A downrigger or planer board can help you get your lures to the right depth and keep them there.
Investing in a quality trolling rod and reel setup can make a big difference in your success when trolling for walleye.
You’ll also need a trolling motor or an outboard motor that is powerful enough to move your boat at a slow and steady pace.
Boats Suitable For Trolling Fishing
Having the right boat can make a big difference in your success.
Ideally, you’ll want a boat that is stable, maneuverable, and has plenty of space for you and your gear.
A flat-bottomed boat, such as a jon boat or a bass boat, can be a good choice for trolling, as they offer good stability and maneuverability in calm waters.
Alternatively, a larger boat with a deep-V hull can be a good choice if you plan to fish in rougher waters or if you need more space and storage for your gear.
Equipping your boat with a trolling motor and depth finder can assist you in navigating the water and identifying the prime locations for trolling fishing.|
To ensure a successful fishing trip, it’s crucial to have a high-quality net and cooler on hand.
Trolling Motors For Walleye Trolling
There are many great trolling motors available in the market, but one of the best options for trolling for walleye is the Minn Kota Endura C2 55. This motor is known for its reliability, durability, and quiet operation. It has a 55-pound thrust, making it powerful enough to handle rough water conditions and strong currents. Additionally, it features a telescoping handle, allowing for easy control and maneuverability. Overall, the Minn Kota Endura C2 55 is an excellent choice for any angler looking for a quality trolling motor for walleye fishing.
Best Lures and Baits for Walleye Trolling
Walleye are often attracted to lures that mimic the movements of their natural prey, such as minnows or leeches.
The best walleye lure baits can vary depending on factors such as water temperature, time of day, and the specific body of water you’re fishing
Recommended baits are crankbaits, spinnerbaits, and spoons. Designed to attract walleye.
A depth finder or fish finder is also useful for locating schools of walleye.
It also helps determining the depth at which they are feeding.
Recommendations For Lures Based On Water Depth
Less than 15 feet a floating crankbait or spinner rig can be effective.
These lures can be trolled at a slow speed near the surface, which can attract walleye that are feeding on smaller baitfish.
15-30 feet. A deep diving crankbait or a jig and plastic tail can work well in medium depth water.
These lures can be trolled at a moderate speed to get them down to the right depth and keep them there.
Use a downrigger for depths over 30 feet.
A deep diving crankbait or a spoon can work well in deep water, as they can replicate the movements of larger baitfish that walleye may be feeding on.
Speed And Depth For Walleye Trolling
Speed and depth are critical factors to consider when trolling for walleye.
Generally, a speed of 1.5 to 2.5 miles per hour is a good starting point for trolling.
You may need to adjust your speed based on the behavior of the fish and the conditions of the water.
If you’re not getting bites, try slowing down or speeding up your trolling speed to see if that makes a difference.
As a general rule, walleye tend to be found at deeper depths during the day and shallower depths in the early morning or evening.
Using a depth finder can be helpful in determining the ideal depth for your lure.
Once you’ve found the right depth, be sure to maintain a consistent speed and depth as you troll to maximize your chances of getting a bite.
Tips for Avoiding Snags and Tangles
Snags and tangles are a common problem when trolling for walleye, and can quickly become frustrating if you’re constantly having to untangle your lines or retrieve snagged lures.
One of the best ways to avoid snags is to keep your lure at the right depth for the conditions of the water you’re fishing in.
Using a line counter reel can be helpful in keeping track of the depth of your lure and reducing the risk of snags.
Locations for Trolling Fishing for Walleye
Wisconsin is home to some of the best walleye trolling locations in the United States.
One of the most popular destinations for walleye fishing in the state are Green Bay & Lake Winnebago.
Green Bay is located in northeastern Wisconsin.
The bay covers an area of over 1,600 square miles and has an average depth of only 20 feet.
Ideal habitat for walleye. Some of the most productive areas for walleye trolling in Green Bay include the waters around the Fox River, the Pensaukee River, and the Oconto River.
Known for producing some of the largest walleye catches in the country.
Other notable lakes for walleye trolling in Wisconsin include Lake Michigan, and Lake Superior.
When choosing a location to troll for walleye, it’s important to consider factors such as water temperature, depth, and structure.
Walleye tend to be most active in water temperatures between 55-68°F and are often found near structures such as drop-offs, weed beds, and submerged rock piles.
It’s also important to pay attention to weather conditions, as changes in wind and cloud cover can affect the feeding patterns of walleye.
Enjoy Your Trip Walleye Trolling Fishing
Don’t forget to take in the scenery and appreciate the beauty of the great outdoors while you’re out on the water.
Anglers are required to obtain a fishing license and follow specific size and bag limits for different fish species.
It is important to avoid damaging habitats and follow proper waste disposal methods to avoid polluting waterways. Grab your gear, head out to your favorite fishing spot, and enjoy the thrill of trolling for walleye.
Guided Walleye Fishing With Captain Lonney
For 25 years Green Bay Trophy Fishing has guided and provided helpful information to anglers in and around Door County. We are some of the most experienced fishing guides in Green Bay and pride ourselves on being experts on everything related to fishing in the area.
If you are interested in booking a walleye fishing charter, you can view our rates or contact us here.
If you’re new to trout fishing and want to get started using artificial baits, there is no better lure to begin with than the humble spinner. The spinner was conceived by French engineer Andre Meulnart on the trout rivers of the French Alps and later adopted and mass produced in the U.S. by Todd Sheldon.
The spinner has become a timeless lure with a reputation to match. Whether you call it a Roostertail, Panther Martin, or MEPPs, the spinner is cheap, easy to use, and practical. I doubt there is an angler alive today that has not had a spinner in their tackle boxes at some point, and there is good reason for it. The spinner remains one of the single most effective fishing lures ever created. From the tackle you use, the size of the lure, and the type of retrieve you perform, the spinner is a highly versatile and nuanced lure that can help you land that trophy trout you’ve been after for years.
Trout, like all fish species, have a specialized organ called the lateral line that runs the length of their bodies. This organ has evolved to pick up vibrations in the water column that indicate danger or potential prey. Trout have also developed incredible monocular and binocular color vision making them adept hunters regardless of water quality and light conditions. The spinner stimulates these extraordinary senses and often elicits a strike even if the trout isn’t hungry. The flash of the blade through the water mimics a floundering baitfish or insect, while the blade’s spinning vibration reinforces the deception that the lure is, indeed, a prey item. Together these two aspects make the spinner lure nearly irresistible to an aggressive trout and at least worth a closer inspection by more wary specimens.
Brown Trout caught on a spinner on the Nantahala River, NC.
What Tackle to Pair and Rig with Spinners
A good rule of thumb when fishing for trout, especially in smaller creeks and streams, is to use the most lightweight tackle you can feasibly get away with. My go-to spinner set up for trout is typically a 3000-size spinning reel with 8-12lb braided line, 3-4ft fluorocarbon leader paired with a 6-8ft light action fishing rod with a soft tip. If you have not guessed by now, the name of the game is lightweight tackle; you can use a baitcaster, but unless the lure is at least 1/8oz, I wouldn’t advise it unless you love fixing backlash.
Table 1: A general guide to the sizes of line lure based on the conditions. Color is entirely up to the angler. Rod type for all data below is a 7ft light-medium action rod with a soft tip.
Reel size(Spinning)Mainline(Braid)Leaderline(Floro)Spinner SizeWaterConditionsTrout Expected1000-30008-12lbn4-6lbn1/32 oz; 1/16 oz; 1/8 oz1-5ft, light currentSmall to Medium size Rainbow, Brook, and Brown Trout1000-300010-12lb6-8lb1/4 oz; 1/4 oz1-10ft, light to heavy currentMedium to Large size Rainbow, Brook, and Brown Trout3000+10-12lb6-8lb1/4 oz; 1/4 oz1-10ft, light to heavy currentMedium to Large size Rainbow, Brook, and Brown Trout3000+12+lb8-12lb3/4 oz; 1 oz1-10ft, light to heavy currentMedium to Large size Rainbow, Brook, and Brown Trout
Tackle
1. Spinning reel: size 1000-3000
1000 to 3000 sizes of spinning reels are typically compact, light, and more than capable of handling large trout even in fast current. The reel brand is entirely up to the angler, and I would advise avoiding plastic-bodied reels with plastic handles. Remember, in the world of retail fishing, if it feels cheap, it probably is cheap. Typically higher-quality gear will have aluminum, steel, or carbon-fiber reel handles and bodies. My current favorite reel to use with spinners is a Daiwa Legalis 3000 LT.
Daiwa Legalis 3000LT
2. Spinning Rod: 5-8ft Light to Light-Medium action
Longer rods will allow longer casts and more maneuverability around rocks and boulders, while a shorter rod can be used for quicker, more precise casting. Because I like to fish rivers with dense shoreline cover, I typically choose shorter, more maneuverable rods that won’t get hung up in trees and limbs.
3. Line: 8-12lb braid with a 4-6lb fluorocarbon leader
The light braid will give you substantially more casting distance without sacrificing line strength. The fluorocarbon leader is nearly invisible in the water and will not spook away wary trout.
Any fluorocarbon line will work. Try not to go above 8lb test.
4. Lure Size and Weight: 1/32 to 1 oz
Lure weight and size depend entirely on depth, wind conditions, size of fish targeted, fish species, and the type of water being fished. A solid middle ground for all types of water is a 1/8 oz spinner. Remember that lure size does matter when attempting to target larger fish regardless of what people tell you. Animals can determine whether a prey item is worth their time for the energy they expend to retrieve it. Although you can find cases of small fishing hitting big lures and vice versa, typically, larger lures will entice larger fish. This is why Muskie spinners are nearly the size of your hand, while trout spinners can be smaller than your pinky fingernail.
Color of Spinner, Do Trout Care?
The color of the spinner’s body isn’t as important as you might think, regardless of what the trout fanatics and gurus tell you. Spinners are primarily causing reactionary strikes with trout due to the combination of flash and vibration. Therefore, when changing lures, it’s more prudent to change the blade style and color instead of the lure’s body color. Changing the blade color, alters the flash color and vibration that the spinner is expending into the water, which might be more enticing to that lethargic 20in brown your trying not to “accidentally” snag in the face after your 100th cast at it.
Typically I use darker colors during clear days and brighter colors on overcast days. Regardless of this guideline, however, I have been mistaken before. So take this advice with a pinch of salt. Tip: My favorite color and size when exploring a new creek or river is a 1/16oz Rooster-tail with a bronze blade.
1/16 oz Brown Trout Roostertail with a Bronze Blade
How to Rig a Spinner for Trout Fishing
As the name implies, spinners spin. Unfortunately, this sometimes causes the line to spin as well. We use a fluorocarbon leader attached to the braid with a swivel to prevent this. The swivel will allow the leader line to spin while preventing the mainline from turning. Although this isn’t required, it will help avoid tangles and loops forming in your mainline, which can be a real pain in the neck.
When spinner fishing for you trout, you can use a standard spinner rig setup. Tie the mainline (braid) to the fluorocarbon leader using a barrel swivel. Attached the mainline and fluorocarbon leader to the swivel using an improved clinch knot or palomar knot. Allow for 1′ to 2′ of leader line between the swivel and your spinner bait.
Spinner rig setup for spinner fishing for trout
Tip: To remove twists from the line remove all tackle from the terminal end of the line and free-spool out as much line as possible into the current or behind a boat. This will naturally allow the line to untwist itself.
How and Where to use a Spinner for Trout
Retrieval Rate
Your retrieval rate is an important aspect you must be aware of when spinner fishing for trout. All spinners have a minimum retrieval rate that will allow the spinner to rotate freely like a boat propeller and not just flop around in the water. To use a spinner the most effectively, you want to maintain the slowest retrieval that your spinner will allow as you propel it through the water.
All brands, blade sizes, shapes, and weights of spinners are different, and finding the optimal retrieval rate for each one is imperative. To get an idea of your spinners’ optimal retrieval rate, drag the lure a few feet in front of you until you see the blade engage and rotate like a small propeller. If it isn’t rotating, you can bend the blade’s edge using a pair of pliers or flatten it with a hammer or rock.
How to Fish a River with a Spinner for Trout
In a river, trout are typically in feeding lanes with their heads pointed into the current as they wait for wounded baitfish or insects to pass by them. These feeding lanes generally are found on drop-offs into deeper water or on the edge of eddies created by rocks or fallen timber. Rarely will they pursue a meal into the current to waste precious energy, highlighting the importance of proper positioning when you make your cast.
Always throw your spinner at roughly a 45-degree angle up-current to allow it to swing through areas where you believe fish might be. Since we know the general direction in a river that trout will face, it’s also prudent to walk upriver instead of downriver when bank fishing. This way, you walk up behind fish instead of in their line of sight. You’ll find you spook less fish and catch more this way.
How to Fish a Lake with a Spinner for Trout
In lakes, trout are much more susceptible to atmospheric changes than in rivers. During the hottest and coldest months of the year, you will typically find them in deeper water and difficult to target by the shore. During the Spring and Fall, trout will hunt along the shorelines, looking for insects, amphibians, and small fish that stray too far into the open. These are the optimal times to throw spinners for trout in a lake. Keep the spinner just a few feet above the bottom, maintaining a continuous retrieval casting toward the structure or the bank. Try to fish drop-offs, structures, and vegetation where the trout’s natural prey may be hiding.
Final Note: Brown vs. Rainbow Trout
Typically, when fishing for trout in the U.S., you will find yourself in waters stocked with Brown or Rainbow trout. Both species of fish have variable habits that, once known, can help you identify areas where you are more likely to catch either species. Brown trout love the dense cover of fallen logs and shorelines with overhangs where they can ambush small animals, fish, and insects as they fall into the water.
Although you can find rainbows exhibiting similar behavior until they reach a particular size class, I tend to find rainbows in deeper, calmer water. Brown trout are also more aggressive and prefer hunting smaller trout and fish, while rainbows, especially hatchery fish, prefer bugs, nymphs, and larvae. I know…I know, you have caught giant brown trout on size 20 nymphs and swear by it. However, from my experience, larger spinners with wider blades tend to catch more brown trout than rainbows.
These bright fungi are rather unusual looking, and if you’re trying them for the first time, you may be a little skeptical about their edibility.
But they’re extremely popular with foragers, very versatile in the kitchen and many people consider them the best mushroom to substitute for chicken.
So, if you’re looking for a healthy vegetarian alternative to chicken and live in an area where they thrive, these may be the perfect mushrooms for you.
Read on to learn more about chicken of the woods mushrooms, including where they grow, how to correctly identify them, what they taste like and how to harvest, store, clean and cook them.
Chicken of the woods mushrooms are striking, brightly-colored edible mushrooms that grow on old, dying or dead trees.
They’re the fruiting bodies of polypore, bracket fungi and appear in large tiered clusters of bright yellow to orange mushrooms with fan-shaped caps.
They’re occasionally parasitic on elderly trees where they cause brown rot, but usually saprotrophic, feeding on dead and decaying hardwood trees.
There are several species of chicken of the woods mushrooms that vary slightly in color and taste. Three of the most common are Laetiporus sulphureus, Laetiporus cincinnatus and Laetiporus gilbertsonii.
All three produce delicious edible mushrooms that look similar but grow on different trees.
Like other mushrooms, chicken of the woods has several names, including sulfur shelf or chicken mushrooms, sulfur shelf fungus or chicken fungus.
Can You Eat Chicken of the Woods Mushroom?
Yes, you can eat chicken of the woods, and it gets its name from the fact that its dense fibrous flesh has a texture very similar to cooked chicken.
Where Does Chicken of the Woods Grow?
Chicken of the woods grow in deciduous woodlands, and you’ll find them in a range of woodland habitats, including the edges of natural forests and urban parks and gardens.
They’re widespread in the United Kingdom, North America, and Europe and are most often found growing on trunks or stumps of deciduous hardwood trees like oaks, maples and beeches.
But you’ll sometimes find them growing on willow, wild cherry, sweet chestnut, eucalyptus and yew.
Laetiporus sulphureus and Laetiporus cincinnatus enjoy oak and beech trees, while Laetiporus gilbertsonii is usually found on oak or eucalyptus trees.
Some mycologists advise against harvesting chicken of the woods mushrooms that grow on yew trees as they could absorb the toxic alkaloids found in the yew tree. But others report having eaten these mushrooms without incident.
Is Chicken of the Woods Hard to Find?
Chicken of the woods are not hard to find, but although they’re brightly colored, easy to identify and relatively common, it’s not always as easy to find them at the right stage for eating, and you have to know where to look.
They grow best on dead and dying oak trees and enjoy humid, low-lying locations and cool temperatures. But can be unpredictable and will fruit throughout the year when conditions are favorable.
Usually, the best time to find them is fall, but foragers report coming across them anywhere from late spring through to fall, especially after heavy rains.
You’ll often find chicken of the woods growing on the same tree or log year after year until the fungus has fully decomposed the wood.
So once you have found a flush of chicken of the woods mushrooms, you can return to the same spot the following year when conditions are right and will hopefully discover more.
Where to Buy Chicken of the Woods Mushrooms
If the thought of finding and identifying chicken of the woods mushrooms in the wild is intimidating, don’t worry.
Chicken of the woods mushrooms are sought after, and in many places, you’ll find fresh chicken of the woods at local farmer’s markets or specialty food stores.
Some CSA projects also offer foraged or homegrown mushrooms as part of their weekly food parcel and may include chicken of the woods.
How to Identify Chicken of the Woods Mushrooms
Chicken of the woods are very striking and have few look-alikes making them an ideal species for beginner mushroom foragers.
They grow in overlapping layers, resemble small wavy shelves and vary in appearance from smooth to finely wrinkled.
Their broad fan-shaped caps can get very big and range from 2 to 12 inches (5 to 30 cm) across, with a velvet or suede-like feel when young that becomes leathery as they mature.
Chicken of the woods are polypores, meaning they do not have gills. Instead, the underside of their caps have lots of tiny tubes that look like pores, and these produce their spores.
Chicken of the woods mushrooms don’t have stems, the brackets emerge directly from the tree, but they sometimes have short pseudo or “false stems” that are actually part of the cap.
Their color varies from species to species, and as they mature, their bright colors fade and change, becoming tan or light brown.
The upper surface of Laetiporus sulphureus, often called the sulfur shelf mushroom, is orange-red to orange-yellow, usually with bright yellow wavy edges. The underside is bright sulfurous yellow with tiny pores.
Laetiporus cincinnatus, also known as the white-pored chicken of the woods, has a pale pinkish to peachy colored upper surface, and the underside is white with tiny pores.
The upper surface of Laetiporus gilbertsonii is pale pinkish orange or orangish-yellow, and the pore surface varies from lemon-yellow to pale lemon-yellow.
Chicken of the Woods vs. Hen of the Woods
Chicken of the woods and Hen of the woods are very different mushrooms. And although they’re not look-alikes, their similar names often cause confusion.
Hen of the woods or maitake is a delicious edible polypore mushroom that grows in clusters at the base of hardwood trees. And like some chicken of the woods prefers oaks.
But this is where the similarity ends.
Hen of the woods mushrooms have flattened brown caps with white edges and get their name from the fact that the dense cluster of mushrooms resembles the ruffled feathers of a sitting hen.
Chicken of the woods is brightly colored, looks nothing like a hen and gets its name because, when cooked, its taste and texture are similar to chicken meat.
Hen of the woods mushrooms taste nothing like chicken and have a rich earthy aroma and taste and unique texture.
How to Harvest Chicken of the Woods Mushrooms
It’s easiest to harvest chicken of the woods with a sharp knife, but some foragers pull the entire cluster off the tree.
Pulling often results in more wood particles and dirt that you’ll have to clean off the mushrooms later. It also damages the decomposing wood, which may result in fewer mushrooms the following year.
With a sharp knife you can harvest the entire cluster by cutting it off at the base or trim tender bits off the edges of mature caps.
Harvesting chicken of the woods mushrooms at the right stage is important if you want to eat them fresh.
When is the Best Time to Harvest Chicken of the Woods?
The best time to harvest chicken of the woods mushrooms is when they are still young, with vibrant colors and a firm, slightly spongy texture.
They grow fast and can get past their prime in as little as 2 to 3 days, so if you find young chicken of the woods, it’s best to harvest them the same day or come back the following day.
Immature chicken of the woods mushrooms appear from dead trees as bumpy cyst-like knobs and a few days later start forming brackets.
They’re most tender before the brackets form. If you find them at this stage, it’s the perfect time to harvest them.
Prime edible chicken of the woods usually have brackets less than 8 inches (20cm) across with moist flesh, bright colors and a pleasant mushroomy smell. When crushed, they exude a watery, yellowish liquid.
As they mature and their brackets expand, the center part becomes tougher, but the outer edges remain tender. They also often become hosts to bugs and worms that enjoy their flesh.
At this stage, some foragers feel it’s best to cut off any soft sections on the edges and leave the rest for the bugs. But others harvest the entire cluster and use any tough sections to make a deciduous, savory chicken of the woods mushroom powder.
When a chicken of the woods reaches full maturity, the entire mushroom becomes tough and woody, and the colors fade.
At this stage it’s way past its prime and probably best left in the woods, although some people still use mature chicken of the woods for mushroom powder.
Chicken of the Woods Mushroom Look-Alikes
Chicken of the woods is one of the easiest mushroom species to identify, and there are no false chicken of the woods mushrooms.
Although some bright mushrooms may look similar from a distance, it’s easy to tell them apart when you get closer.
Bright yellow to orange mushrooms that grow in similar conditions are delicious edible chanterelles, parasitic honey mushrooms and toxic jack-o-lanterns.
But none of these mushrooms are bracket fungi, and they all have gills, so a quick look at the underside of their caps will quickly remove any confusion.
There is one polypore fungus, Phaeolus schweinitzii, that people sometimes confuse with chicken of the woods. It’s called the velvet-top fungus or dyer’s polypore.
It grows in similar conditions to chicken of the woods and, when young, is often bright yellow or orange, but the upper surface of the fan-shaped cap is velvety brown in the center.
The velvet-top fungus is not poisonous. But it’s also not edible as it has a very tough texture. People use these mushrooms to make natural green, yellow, gold, or brown fabric dyes, hence their second name.
Can You Grow Chicken of the Woods Mushrooms at Home?
You can grow chicken of the woods mushrooms at home, both indoors on sawdust blocks and outdoors on logs.
They’re one of the more challenging species to grow indoors, as colonization takes a very long time.
Because of this, indoor cultivation is usually only recommended for experienced growers who’ll enjoy the challenge.
But, if you have a shady spot in your garden, it’s easy to grow them outdoors on large-diameter logs and stumps. They prefer oak but will grow on most hardwood logs.
To inoculate the logs or stumps, you’ll need to drill holes in them, insert plug spawn or sawdust spawn and seal the holes with wax.
It takes six months to a year from when you inoculate your logs for the first flush of mushrooms. But then you should get mushrooms from your logs for another 3 to 5 years.
Our ultimate guide to growing mushrooms on logs takes you through this process step-by-step.
What Does Chicken of the Woods Mushroom Taste Like?
Chicken of the woods mushrooms have a mild flavor with lemony undertones that people describe as similar to chicken, lobster or crab.
But it’s their sinewy texture, so similar to succulent cooked chicken meat, that gives them their name and makes them a great meat replacement in vegetarian and vegan dishes.
Like other mushrooms, chicken of the woods absorbs liquids well and will take on the flavors of other ingredients in dishes.
Can You Eat Chicken of the Woods Mushroom Raw?
You should not eat raw chicken of the woods mushrooms as they may cause stomach problems.
In fact, chefs advise cooking them thoroughly and, if necessary, boiling them before sauteing them to ensure they’re cooked through.
Some people are allergic to chicken of the woods mushrooms even when well cooked.
As with any mushroom you’re eating for the first time, it’s best to try a small portion first to see if you have any allergic reactions.
How to Clean Chicken of the Woods Mushrooms
If you’ve harvested an entire cluster of chicken of the woods, the first step is to separate the brackets and trim off any woody bits, bruises and insect damage.
Chicken of the woods growing at the base of tree trunks can sometimes get extremely dirty. Foragers recommend brushing them gently with a soft-bristle brush or wiping them with a damp cloth to remove any loose dust and debris.
You can also rinse them under cold running water to remove stubborn dirt. Then pat them dry with a clean paper or kitchen towel. Avoid soaking chicken of the woods as they’ll absorb a lot of water and become soggy.
Our article, “How to Clean Mushrooms: A Step-by-Step Guide,” has more information on the best ways to clean mushrooms.
How to Store Chicken of the Woods Mushrooms
Here are three of the easiest ways to store your chicken of the woods mushrooms:
1. In the Refrigerator
You can store fresh chicken of the woods for 7 to 10 days in the refrigerator in a paper bag or breathable fabric bag, but there are a few things to remember to help them last longer:
Store them on a shelf in your fridge, not in the crisper drawer.
Take care not to place them next to strong-smelling foods.
Avoid putting anything on top of them, as young mushrooms bruise easily.
Also, do not wash your chicken of the woods until just before you plan on using them.
2. In the Freezer
Because chicken of the woods often grows in large groups of several clusters, you’ll often end up with more than you can fit in your fridge or eat in a week.
In cases like this, you need long-term storage solutions, and freezing and drying are the best options for chicken of the woods.
Unlike most other mushrooms that need cooking before freezing, raw chicken of the woods freezes well and retains its meaty texture when defrosted.
To store chicken of the woods in the freezer, first trim and clean them and pat them dry or place them on a kitchen towel to dry.
Ensure they’re dry before freezing them because if you freeze them wet, they won’t retain their texture, and you’ll end up with soft mushy mushrooms.
Place the clean, dry chicken of the woods into ziplock bags or vacuum pack them and then freeze them. They’ll last for up to a year in the freezer.
3. Drying
If you plan on using your chicken of the woods in soups and stews, then drying them is also an excellent way to preserve them long term.
Trim, wash and dry your mushrooms, then slice them into half-inch (1.3 cm) pieces and dry them in a food dehydrator. Once dry, you can store them in an airtight jar or ziplock bag. They’ll last a year or more when kept in a cool and dry location.
You can also blend or grind your dried mushrooms to make chicken of the woods mushrooms powder for seasoning dishes. This is the best way to use older mushrooms that are too tough to eat but still have lots of flavor.
Learn how to preserve your chicken of the woods mushrooms.
How to Cook Chicken of the Woods Mushrooms
Like other mushrooms, chicken of the woods is very versatile with many culinary applications.
You can fry, saute, blanch, roast or bake chicken of the woods and use them as you would other mushrooms or as a substitute for chicken or tofu in recipes.
What is Chicken of the Woods Mushroom Good For?
One of the easiest ways to enjoy the flavor and texture of these mushrooms is to sauté them in olive oil with garlic, shallots, white wine and fresh herbs.
But they also work well in pasta dishes, curries, casseroles, risottos and egg-based dishes like quiches, omelets and frittatas.
Below is a chicken of the woods mushroom recipe that really makes the most of their similarity to chicken meat.
And to provide more inspiration, we have put together 30 of our favorite mushroom recipes as well as 25 delicious vegan mushroom recipes.
Crispy Fried Chicken of the Woods Recipe
Image from Forager Chef
This recipe, adapted from the Forager Chef, uses the traditional chicken fried steak recipe to create tender, juicy mushroom steaks with a crispy outer coating.
You can serve these delicious steaks with any sauce and your choice of vegetables, creating endless possibilities.
Ingredients
4 pieces of young chicken of the woods, around 2 oz (57 grams) or the size of a smallish fist
1 cup all-purpose flour or as needed for breading.
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 pinch of sweet paprika
1 small pinch of cayenne pepper
3 eggs beaten
4 tablespoons of cooking oil
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
A few sprigs of fresh thyme (optional)
1 small clove of garlic, crushed (optional)
Lemon wedges for serving
Instructions
Trim off the tough parts of your chicken of the woods mushrooms, rinse and dry them well, as this helps the seasonings adhere.
In a bowl, combine the flour with salt, pepper, paprika and cayenne to taste, and place the beaten eggs in another bowl.
Toss the mushrooms first in flour, then in egg, then in flour again.
Heat a pan and add the cooking oil and butter. When the butter has melted, add your breaded chicken of the woods, the crushed clove of garlic, and the thyme.
Sauté the chicken of the woods until they are golden brown on each side, about 4-5 minutes, adding extra oil or butter if the pan gets dry.
When ready, remove the mushrooms from the pan, quickly blot them on a paper towel to remove excess oil, sprinkle with salt and serve immediately.
Health and Nutritional Benefits of Chicken of the Woods
Like many other mushrooms, chicken of the woods is high in protein and digestive fiber and low in fat, making it a healthy meat replacement.
It’s also a good source of potassium, vitamin C and vitamin A.
The nutritional value of chicken of the woods varies depending on the environment and growing conditions.
But studies on the nutritional value and chemical composition of chicken of the woods show that, on average, a 100g serving contains:
6 g of dietary fiber
21g of Protein
2g of fat
150mg of potassium
Chicken of the woods also contains numerous bioactive compounds with antioxidant, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and anti-tumor properties.
Final Thoughts
Chicken of the woods are delicious, edible mushrooms that are more often foraged than cultivated.
If you’re fortunate enough to live somewhere they grow, you could find fresh chicken of the woods in the wild, at your local farmers market or even grow them outdoors on logs.
Because they often grow in large clumps, you’ll have enough mushrooms to last a while and can store them in the freezer for a year-round supply of tender, meaty mushroom steaks.
To learn more about mushrooms and how they grow, visit our Mushroom Education Hub.
And if you’re hoping to grow mushrooms at home, our Mushroom Growing Hub has loads of valuable resources to help you get started.
Yellow mushrooms commonly grow in front or backyards and seemingly appear from nowhere. You can find yellow mushrooms growing in lawns, flower beds, under shrubs, in forests, and on rotting tree trunks. The yellow fruiting bodies can have cylindrical stems, dark or light-colored gills, and a flattened or rounded cap.
Some varieties of yellow mushrooms, like golden chanterelles and yellow oyster mushrooms, are edible. However, many varieties of yellow fungi are poisonous, and eating them can result in severe gastrointestinal upset. Additionally, some yellow mushroom look-alikes like jack-o-lanterns resemble edible varieties like chanterelles.
This article is a basic guide for identifying common yellow mushrooms in yards, lawns, and woodlands. It does not provide advice on distinguishing edible yellow mushrooms from poisonous ones. Foraging mushrooms for consumption requires expertise and experience. The National Capital Poison Center warns you should “never pick and eat wild mushrooms unless they’ve been identified by an expert.”
Yellow mushrooms grow in yards when conditions are right. Yellow mushrooms grow vigorously in soil with plenty of organic matter and in damp conditions, warm temperatures, and high humidity. They flourish in damp soil under decomposing leaves and decaying plant material. You may also find spongy yellow mushrooms growing on trees.
It’s good to note that finding yellow mushrooms in your yard indicates that the soil is healthy and rich in organic matter. Having conditions encouraging diverse yellow mushroom species to flourish adds biodiversity to your yard’s ecosystem.
Yellow Mushrooms in the Lawn
Yellow mushrooms thrive in lawns due to favorable conditions such as moisture, decaying organic matter, and shade provided by grass. Fungi form a symbiotic relationship with grass roots, aiding nutrient absorption. Lawns offer an ideal environment for these vibrant fungi to sprout and contribute to the ecosystem.
Common types of yellow mushrooms you are likely to find in lawns include yellow fieldcaps (Bolbitius titubans), golden chanterelles (Cantharellus cibarius), golden waxcap (Hygrocybe flavescens), golden spindles (Clavulinopsis fusiformis), and jack-o-lanterns (Omphalotus illudens).
Related reading: How to get rid of mushrooms in a lawn.
How to Identify Yellow Mushrooms
To identify a yellow mushroom, mycologists examine the shape, color, texture, and appearance of gills under the cap. Many mushrooms have a skirt-like ring on the stem. You can also tell a lot about a yellow mushroom species by the stalk’s appearance and odors the yellow fungi emit. Also, some yellow mushrooms change color when bruised or cut.
Types of Yellow Mushrooms (with Pictures): Identification Guide
Let’s look in detail at the diverse range of fungi species with yellow, canary-colored, or golden-yellow stems and caps.
Golden Chanterelle Mushroom (Cantharellus cibarius)
The golden chanterelle is an edible wild mushroom with a vibrant golden-yellow color. Identifying features of the tasty yellow mushroom are its vase-shaped, upturned cap, wavy margins, yellowish gills, and apricot-like aroma. Also called girolles, the fungi grow 1” to 3” (2.5 – 7.5 cm) tall, with a cap up to 4” (10 cm) wide.
Golden chanterelles are often found in lawns, forests, and naturalized areas. The vibrant pale yellow to dark yellow-orange mushrooms appear in late summer to late fall. In some cases, red dots appear on the caps if the mushroom is damaged.
Golden chanterelles have poisonous look-alikes called jack-o-lantern mushrooms. Therefore, you must be careful when foraging for the yellow-orange mushrooms.
Mud Puppy Mushroom (Cantharellus californicus)
The mud puppy is a type of creamy-yellow to bright-yellow wild mushroom native to North America. The yellow mushroom is characterized by caps in an irregular vase shape and pale gill-like ridges on the stem. These yellow woodland mushrooms grow 2 to 12” (5 – 30 cm) tall.
You will often find mud puppy mushrooms growing near streams or in wet habitats. Also called oak chanterelles, the orange-yellow mushroom species is found sprouting near oak trees. It’s a popular edible mushroom in the western United States.
Yellow Fieldcap Mushrooms (Bolbitius titubans)
Yellow fieldcap mushrooms are a type of yellow lawn fungi. The mushrooms are easily identified by their distinctive bright yellow color, convex or bell-shaped caps, and upright, slender, whitish-yellow stems. The gills of the yellow fieldcap are initially yellow but turn brown as the mushroom ages.
Yellow fieldcaps grow 1.12” to 4.7” (3 – 12 cm) tall with a cap up to 2.5” (7 cm) in diameter. The pale yellow mushrooms are found in various habitats, including lawns, meadows, and grassy areas. They are often seen growing in clusters or scattered groups.
The flowerpot parasol is a small, yellow mushroom commonly found in indoor potted plants. Also called plantpot dapperling, the yellow mushroom is identified by its distinctive bright yellow cylindrical, and sometimes flattened, cap; sulfur yellow gills, and a slender stem 1” to 3.5” (2.5 – 9 cm) long. It sometimes emits a fungus or mushroom smell.
The flowerpot parasol grows in lawns and woodland areas in tropical regions. However, most people recognize this yellow fungus species as a common mushroom that grows in plant pots. Although it’s poisonous for humans to consume, it’s harmless to houseplants.
Golden Oyster Mushroom (Pleurotus citrinopileatus)
The golden oyster mushroom is a species of bright yellow mushroom characterized by its round caps with an indentation in the center. The bright yellow mushrooms grow in dense clusters with caps 0.75” to 2.5” (2 – 6.5 cm) in diameter. They often have cylindrical white curved or bent stems with widely spaced gills.
Golden oyster mushrooms typically grow in clusters on decaying wood, such as logs or tree stumps. They fruit mainly on elm trees. As they mature, they develop a distinctive funnel shape. They are easily recognizable in shape and color, contrasting with dark brown tree bark.
Golden oyster mushrooms have a delicate, mild flavor and a slightly velvety texture.
Jack-O-Lantern Mushroom (Omphalotus illudens)
The jack-o-lantern mushroom is a bright orange-yellow mushroom that looks like yellow chanterelles. The fungi grow in clusters and are identified by their convex cap that becomes funnel-shaped and closely-spaced gills covering curved stalks. The chanterelle look-alikes grow 2” to 8” (5 – 20 cm) in diameter and length.
The jack-o-lantern mushroom is also known for its bioluminescent properties. It can emit a faint greenish glow in low light conditions, especially at night, giving it its common name. You can find the mushrooms during summer and fall at the base of trees.
Chicken-of-the-woods is a yellow-orange bracket fungus that grows as clustered shelf-like structures on trees. This edible mushroom is identified by its large, golden-yellow, fan-shaped mushroomsdies growing up to 24” (61 cm) wide. The mushroom’s surface has a suede-like texture and exudes a fungal aroma.
The sulfur-yellow chicken-of-the-woods is common in woodlands in North America. You will find the yellow or orange fruiting bodies on several hardwood deciduous trees like willows, poplars, oaks, beech, and fruit trees.
The common name of this edible yellow mushroom—chicken-of-the-woods—refers to its chicken-like taste when cooked.
Golden Ear Mushroom (Tremella aurantia)
The golden ear fungus is a type of brightly-colored gelatinous mushroom that grows on decaying wood. The golden-yellow mushroom has a unique texture and appearance. It consists of dense clusters of wrinkled, folded lobes and grows 2” to 6” (5 – 15 cm) in diameter.
When mature, the golden ear mushroom turns golden brown and resembles an orange cauliflower. Although it is considered safe to eat, you must cook it before consumption.
Witch’s Butter (Tremella mesenterica)
Witch’s butter is a distinctive yellow, almost translucent jelly fungus with gelatinous masses of irregular lobes. Common names for the fungus describe its appearance—for example, yellow brain, yellow trembles, and golden jelly fungus. The fruiting bodies grow 3” (7.5 cm) in diameter and are found on decaying wood.
Witch’s butter resembles the golden ear mushroom and is related. The differences between the two are that witch’s butter has a greasy or shiny appearance and has thinner lobes. Although it’s considered edible, not everyone agrees that witch’s butter is safe to consume.
Golden Spindles (Clavulinopsis fusiformis)
Also called yellow coral, this unusual yellow mushroom looks like clusters of spindle-shaped coral. The fruiting bodies are clusters of pencil-like golden-yellow spindles with pointed tips. The thin clubs grow 2” to 5” (5 to 13 cm) tall. The large tufts of coral-like fruiting bodies are easy to spot in a landscape.
Golden spindles are a common vibrant golden-yellow color lawn mushroom. They inhabit undisturbed grassy areas, woodlands, and forest floors. They often appear after periods of rain, and their bright color makes them stand out among the surrounding green vegetation.
Yellow Patches (Amanita flavoconia)
The yellow patches mushroom is native to North America and is easily recognizable by its yellow-orange warty cap. The cap may be smooth, or covered with small flakes. This highly poisonous yellow mushroom has a pale yellow stalk, densely growing gills, and sticky yellow warts on its yellowish conical to rounded cap. The yellow-orange cap grows 1.2” to 3.5” (3 – 9 cm) in diameter.
The yellow patches look striking, with their vibrant yellow colors acting as a warning signal. The large toadstool-like fungus grows in groups or solitary near oak and hemlock trees in woodlands. It typically sprouts in late summer through fall.
Yellow American Blusher (Amanita flavorubens)
The yellow American blusher is a yellow wild mushroom with a wide disk-like cap found in North America. This mushroom is identified by its vibrantly yellow-colored cap, ranging from lemon-yellow to brass-yellow. The cap measures 1.4” to 4” (3.5 – 10 cm) wide and sits on top of a thick cylindrical stem up to 6” (15 cm) tall.
The yellow American blusher mushrooms are commonly found in hardwood forests near oak trees. The mushroom’s yellow flesh slowly stains reddish when cut. The yellow mushroom also has a shaggy appearance below the stem’s ring.
Golden Waxcap (Hygrocybe flavescens)
The golden waxcap is a beautiful bright-yellow-orange mushroom found in lawns and meadows. The rounded or flat-capped mushroom is identified by its yellow-orange waxy cap, pale yellow to orange cylindrical stem, and closely spaced pale yellow gills. The slender stem grows 1.5” to 4” (4 – 10 cm) tall, and its cap is 0.8” to 1.7” (2 – 4.5 cm) in diameter.
Yellow-orange or lemon-yellow golden waxcaps typically appear from spring through fall and grow in small groups or clusters. They prefer moist soil and are common in deciduous and coniferous forests. They often grow profusely close to beech trees.
Common Yellow Russula or Ochre Brittlegill (Russula ochroleuca)
The common yellow russula is a large mushroom with a dull yellow convex or flat cap and thick white stipe (stem). The edible yellow mushroom grows 2” to 4.5” (5 – 12 cm) wide, and its stipe is 1” to 3” (3 – 7.5 cm) long.
The ochre brittlegill is similar in appearance to the yellow swamp brittlegrill (Russula claroflava), which has a convex egg-yolk yellow cap and a thick, upright, stout white stem. The yellow swamp brittlegrill mushroom is said to be tastier than the ochre brittlegrill mushroom.
However, it is important to properly identify this mushroom before consuming it, as some russula species can be poisonous.
Yellow Pholiota Mushroom (Pholiota flammans)
The yellow pholiota is a brightly-colored golden-yellow mushroom with an easily recognizable scaly cap and stipe. The identifying feature of the yellow fungus is its triangular spiky scales covering its surface. These are arranged in concentric rings. The mushroom has a cap with a diameter of 3.14” (8 cm) and its stem is 4.7” (12 cm) tall.
Yellow pholiota mushrooms often grow in clusters on decaying and dead wood of coniferous trees. They can grow in dense clusters or singularly and are commonly available in late summer through fall. The yellow pholiota is considered edible but is not widely sought after due to its bitter taste.
Butter-Foot Bolete Mushroom (Boletus auripes)
The butter-foot bolete is a type of wild mushroom with a yellow cylindrical stem and flattened brownish-yellow cap. The identifying characteristic of this large yellow mushroom is its dry, solid cap, ranging in color from pale yellow to golden brown. As it matures, the yellow flesh turns white.
The flat golden brown cap on the mature mushrooms grows 1.6” to 5” (4 – 13 cm) in diameter and has a velvety texture. You can forage for this mushroom near oak and beech trees, and it fruits from mid-summer through late fall.
Golden Scruffy Collybia Mushroom (Cyptotrama asprata)
The golden scruffy collybia is easily identified by its bright yellow to orange cap covered in yellow or orange spikes. Also called spiny woodknight, the mushroom is identified by its cushion or convex-shaped cap, widely-spaced white gills, and shaggy cylindrical stipe. The bright yellow mushroom grows up to 2.6” (6.6 cm) tall, and its cap is 1” (2.5 cm) in diameter.
The golden scruffy collybia mushroom is found on the deadwood of deciduous and coniferous trees, and can be found in tropical areas of the world.
Wood Hedgehog Mushroom (Hydnum repandum)
The wood hedgehog is a yellow mushroom body with an irregularly shaped yellow or tan-colored cap and a wavy margin. Also called sweet tooth mushroom, the forest mushroom has a yellowish stipe, thick white flesh, and whitish spines under the convex cap. The mushroom’s unique feature is its spines instead of gills.
Wood hedgehogs grow 1” to 4” (2.5 – 10 cm) tall with a large irregular yellow to tan cap up to 6.5” (17 cm) wide. The mushrooms grow singly or in groups on the ground of coniferous and deciduous forests.
Yellow Webcap Mushroom (Cortinarius delibutus)
The yellow webcap is a medium-sized mushroom with a shiny, slimy dull yellow cap and white stem. The mushroom is identified by its bell-like cap that becomes flattened with age, cinnamon colored gills tightly packed under it, and a thick whitish stem with a swollen base. The yellowish mushrooms are found in deciduous woodlands in North America.
Yellow webcap mushrooms range in size from 2” to 4” (5 to 10 cm) tall, with a yellowish-brown cap measuring 1.6” to 8.1” (4 – 8 cm) in diameter.
The yellowfoot chanterelle is an edible yellowish-brown mushroom, identified by its small funnel-shaped cap. Other features of the small mushroom are the cap’s wavy margin, depressed center and shallow gills, and hollow stems. The mushrooms grow up to 3.1” (8 cm) tall with a cap 0.4” to 1.5” (1 – 4 cm) wide.
The yellowfoot chanterelle mushrooms appear in groups on the forest floor or on decomposing logs.
Chicken Fat Mushroom (Suillus americanus)
The chicken fat mushroom is a yellow mushroom with a bell-shaped to flattened cap and porous underside. Identifying features of the mushroom are the reddish or brownish streaks on the cap, crooked yellow stem, and tube-like opening underneath the cap. It grows solitary or in clusters in North American pine forests.
Chicken fat yellow mushrooms grow 1.2” to 3.5” (3 – 9 cm) tall, and its cap is 1.2” to 4” (3 – 10 cm) wide. It gets its name from its unique appearance-a greasy yellow texture resembling chicken fat. It’s also called the American slippery cap.
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