If you’ve been looking at the Jase Robertson Pro Series duck call by Duck Commander you might have a couple of questions.

You could be looking for the absolute best Jase Robertson Pro Series duck call review out there, with every little detail, or maybe you just want to find the lowest prices (which I’ve done for you below).

Well, no worries my friend. I promise you’re not going to find a better, more detailed review out there. After testing alongside several other duck calls and ranking according to five factors, here’s a few things I noticed about the Jase Robertson Pro Series duck call.

Call Quality (35%) – 10

Out of any of the calls we tested, the Jase Robertson Pro Series duck call sounded the best. We tested out this call using three different mallard hen sounds, and it handled each call like a champ. The quacks sounded great, and they were plenty raspy and sounded authentic. The greeting and feeder calls were great as well, with this call outdoing any other call we tested.

Volume (20%) – 8

This Duck Commander call was plenty loud. It had more volume than the Primos Mean Mallard but not quite as much as the Sheducktress. However, we found this call to be sufficient when reaching out long distances to call in ducks.

At lower volumes, the call is really raspy. However, when you add some more volume to the call it becomes a little cleaner, but that nice, raspy tone is still there.

Variety (20%) – 9

We gave the duck calls we tested scores according their ability to perform quacks, greeting calls, and feeder calls, and the ease in which you could transition from call to call. We found the Jase Roberston Pro Series duck call to do really well in this area. Feeder calls weren’t difficult to make, and transitioning from feeder sounds to greeting calls was relatively simple.

Durability (15%) – 8

This duck call performed well in our durability section. We purchased and tested the acrylic version of the Jase Robertson Pro Series duck call and were very much pleased with it’s tough nature. Pulling the call apart to let it dry was difficult, and having it split in two while in the field doesn’t seem very likely. Every fits tightly inside the call, and we can’t foresee anything breaking in future years.

Learnability (10%) – 8

Learning how to use this call from Duck Commander was much simpler than most other duck calls we tested. It’s plenty raspy, and by using your hands, figuring out quacks was simple. Greeting calls took a little more time, and feeder calls were actually pretty simple with this call. It takes a lot less air and effort to really get a good call going.

The call’s packaging came with some relatively simple instructions on how to quack and then string that together into a greeting call using the word “ten”.

Overall Score For The Jase Robertson Pro Series Duck Call – 89

Out of 100 this Duck Commander call came in with 91 points, a strong score. We were actually really impressed with this call, and weren’t expecting this type of quality coming from Duck Commander who’s pumping out thousands of calls a year.

We would definitely recommend the Jase Robertson Pro Series duck call if you’re looking to get into duck hunting or need a new mallard hen call. If you have something else to add, please let us know in the comments. And don’t forget to check out the lowest prices or some more small details below!

Low Prices (For Acrylic Jase Robertson Pro Series Duck Call)

• Amazon – $45.94
• Cabela’s – $59.99
• Walmart – $45.75

More Details About The Jase Robertson Pro Series Duck Call

Little things matter. That’s why we’ve also included a section in this review that details every little thing you might want to know about this call.

The Engraving On The Mouthpiece Looks Great

Duck Commander was sure to include a laser-etched engraving on the mouthpiece, and it actually looks really nice. It’s just the Duck Commander logo with the name of the call, but it sure does add to its looks.

Cleaning The Jase Robertson Pro Series Duck Call Is Simple

Cleaning this call is simple. You first pull the end of the call from the mouthpiece, which is a little tough and requires some tugging. However, once you remove the horn, you can then disassemble the reed and reed block and leave them to dry.

When reassembling the call, ensure the reeds tabs are facing up and that the reed is centered over the end piece. Then, put the reed block back in place and insert the assembly back into the mouthpiece.

The Jase Robertson Pro Series Duck Call Does Not Include A Lanyard

It doesn’t come with a simple lanyard, but it does have a deep groove that you can use to attach one.

One of the most hotly debated topics among whitetail land managers on social media is whether deer mineral products actually work. Let’s get right to the heart of the matter and ask what is meant by the word “work”. I think this can be answered two ways; do they work to attract deer? Or do they work to help bucks grow bigger antlers?

Most “mineral” products marketed to deer hunters absolutely will attract deer but most will NOT “work” to grow bigger antlers no matter the advertising claims attached to them. As a deer hunter you need to consider the reason you are putting out mineral products for deer.

If your goal is to simply attract deer to a game camera location without any regards to how the product will help deer, then basically any product will probably work to some degree. In fact if this is your goal then you should probably just consider buying a bag of cheap stock salt at your local farm store. You will honestly get the same results at a fraction the price.

Now let’s look at the question that serious land managers really want to know; can mineral products help bucks grow bigger antlers. The answer is a definitive “YES”, but there are a lot of factors that need to be considered. It is not quite as simple as putting out minerals in the summer and magically seeing bigger bucks in the fall.

This chart shows that most mineral products marketed to deer hunters have gaping holes in their formulation. Most cannot possibly help increase antler growth. Click on chart for better view

Let’s start by addressing an argument that many nay-sayers throw up when they try to debunk the idea that deer minerals can help grow bigger antlers. They will state that there is no scientific research that shows minerals help grow bigger antlers. That’s true but to my knowledge there has also never been scientific research that proves minerals do not help with antler growth. The fact is, it is impossible for true scientific research to prove either way. You simply cannot feed a group of bucks mineral and know what size antlers they would have grown without it, or vice versa. Again, this type of scientific “proof” is simply not possible so we will have to rely on an open mind and common sense to help us draw conclusions.

By looking at the livestock industry it is very easy to see the value of minerals in animal diets. Essentially every livestock farmer or rancher in the United States uses minerals as part of their nutrition program. Volumes of research proves the value of minerals for increased growth rates, better reproductive performance and increased health of the animals receiving it. Think about it, these animals are being fed scientifically developed feed rations to maximize health and production and yet there is still many research proven benefits by also feeding them minerals. I think it is fairly easy to conclude that a whitetail deer consuming a random diet could also benefit from mineral supplementation.

In visiting with Real World Wildlife Products nutritionist Dr. Aaron Gaines, he provides the following perspective on mineral demand of whitetail deer, “The milk produced by a whitetail doe has twice the amount of mineral as cows milk, so if a farmer provides his cows with minerals why wouldn’t a serious whitetail land manager provide a mineral supplement to his deer herd as well?”. To take this a step further, Dr Gaines provided the following requirement comparison for a lactating doe vs. a buck that is growing antler; During a 60-day lactation period a doe needs around 215 grams of calcium and 166 grams of phosphorus. In comparison a buck that is growing antler (900 grams total weight) needs 199 grams of calcium and 98 grams of phosphorus. The take home message from this comparison is that does and bucks BOTH have a high requirement for calcium and phosphorus. It is easy to conclude that a whitetail deer consuming a random diet in the wild is no different than a cow grazing pasture; both benefit from mineral supplementation. Further, this does not even factor in the numerous micro-nutrients that whitetails also need which are often lacking in their diet.

Let’s look at this topic from another angle. The biggest whitetail antlers generally come from those regions of the country with the richest soils. Soils are essentially minerals. Those soils that grow the most productive farm crops also grow the biggest bucks. A farmer growing corn on the richest soils in the Midwest will supplement the nutrients available to his crop through fertilization. Even in these highly fertile soils any crop is limited by the required nutrient that is in shortest supply. The same principal applies to a buck growing antlers. To deny that minerals can help a buck grow a bigger rack is like saying a farmer gets no benefit from fertilizing his corn fields. Let’s also recognize that captive deer breeders growing giant antlers on their bucks are feeding minerals to their entire herd, both bucks and does.

Captive deer breeders know that a good mineral supplement can increase antler growth on their bucks

I hope by now you are open to the idea that mineral supplementation absolutely can help a buck grow bigger antlers. We have only reached the starting point however because there is a whole lot more we need to understand in order to maximize the antler growth of the bucks on the properties we manage. It is a little more involved than just putting out mineral and thinking that your bucks will instantly start to grow bigger antlers.

We have to start by looking at the differences in mineral products. Most products marketed to deer hunters are simply high-salt mixes made to turn a big profit margin. They contain minimal amounts of beneficial minerals and in fact are almost always totally void of many of the required nutrients needed for antler growth. Because deer crave salt, they do consume these products and thus many hunters assume they “work”. The brutal truth is that while they do work to attract deer, they absolutely cannot possibly do anything to help a buck grow bigger antlers.

Let’s go back to the livestock industry for a bit. The mineral product that a farmer gives to his lactating dairy cows is a totally different mixture than what he would give to his beef calves. The various mineral blends fed to livestock have been scientifically formulated by professional nutritionists to maximize their benefits to the specific animal ingesting it. So why would deer be any different? A deer is not a cow so feeding mineral products developed for other species to whitetail deer is not the answer.

Clearly, research involving whitetail nutrition falls short of what has been done with livestock. Still, enough has been done that a quality whitetail mineral product can be formulated. The key is not only in which specific minerals, vitamins and other nutrients need to be included but just as importantly, at what levels and ratios. While I have seen a lot of “home mineral mixes” shared via the internet, all have gaping nutritional holes that will limit their effectiveness, if they even have any effect on antler growth at all.

Now let’s look at providing mineral products to wild deer and what one can expect as far as results in terms of increased antler growth. First of all, getting the most of a deer mineral supplementation program is a long term endeavor. I think a whitetail land manager needs to be looking 5 years ahead before the full benefits of mineral supplementation will be truly realized. Again, research from the livestock industry fuels my opinion on this.

Getting a buck to reach his full genetic potential in terms of antler growth starts before a buck is even born.

A study at Oregon State University focused on “fetal programming” of beef calves. The researchers were looking at the possibility of pushing calf performance throughout life by increasing the mineral intake of cows during pregnancy. In this trial researchers showed that calves born to cows that had received increased mineral supplementation performed better and were healthier throughout life than calves born to mothers without it. This is in spite of the fact that both groups of calves got proper mineral supplementation after birth. In other words, once a calf was born it was too late for him to catch up to other calves; he had already been programmed as a fetus. The calves born to cows getting the extra minerals grew faster and had fewer health issues all the way to slaughter. It is important to note that neither group of cows in this study were “mineral deficient” but instead one group simply got increased levels of minerals. What this study showed is that once a calf is born, it is too late to push him to his genetic potential in terms of growth.

After 25 years of research with captive whitetails I believe the same is true with bucks. To really get a buck to reach his genetic potential for antler growth, it really needs to start before he is even conceived! It is extremely important for a whitetail land manager to have his entire deer herd, including his does, on a high-quality mineral supplementation program if he expects to increase antler growth. It is those unborn fawns that will one day produce the full rewards of a quality mineral program in terms of antler production.

As mentioned, for nearly 25 years I owned a research herd of captive whitetails. I focused my studies on genetics and nutrition. Several years ago one of my research projects involved mineral supplementation. My goal was to determine if mineral supplementation affected antler growth to any noticeable degree. I started by acquiring 7 sets of twin buck fawns and then separated the twins into two pens so that I had 7 buck fawns in one pen and 7 in the other. Each buck had a twin brother in the opposite pen. Both pens received the very same feed ration out of the same feed bin. The difference was that the feed in one pen was top-dressed daily with a mineral product I was developing.

Each fall after the shedding of velvet I would tranquilize each buck and then score and remove his antlers. I would figure up the total inches of antler from each pen for comparison. Remember, every buck in pen A had a twin brother in pen B. Eventually I had to abort the study and while I will readily acknowledge that this study was very limited in its scope and not of sufficient breadth to stand up to scientific review, I did see enough to form an opinion. I am convinced that mineral supplementation can increase antler growth in whitetail bucks. “To what degree?” is the big question. My best guess is that a long-term mineral supplementation program using a high-quality whitetail specific mineral could add somewhere between 10-20% to the gross antler score of a mature buck. Certainly some individual animals will respond differently than others.

In conclusion, I am convinced that mineral supplementation can indeed increase antler growth in whitetail bucks. To be brutally honest however, most of the mineral programs currently being practiced by well meaning whitetail hunters and land-managers are a waste of time and money. They will do little more than draw deer to a game camera location.

Which Deer Mineral is Best?

To this point I have purposely neglected mentioning any products by name and won’t get started on bashing products. I do however need to plug Real World Wildlife Products Maximizer and Maximizer Plus mineral products. While I played a role in the development of each product it was really a team process that took many years to perfect. Nutritionists Dr Aaron Gaines and Brent Ratliff played key roles as did world-renown whitetail veterinarian Dr Clifford Shipley of the University of Illinois.

Maximizer and Maximizer Plus each have over 20 different minerals, vitamins and key nutrients in very specific ratios and levels. Maximizer Plus also contains Real Worlds exclusive Expect Healthy Deer Technology® for added health and performance benefits. Captive deer breeders have taken notice of these products and are feeding them to their herds in increasing numbers. Consider this fact – there is probably not a captive deer breeder in the world feeding one of the numerous mineral products marketed to deer hunters to their herd with one exception … MAXIMIZER! If you are looking to take the bucks on your property to their genetic limits while maximizing herd health, Maximizer and Maximizer Plus are honestly your very best option.

Getting Started

Implementing a good mineral program on your property is really very simple but a few things need to be considered. For best results have at least 1 good mineral station for every 40 acres of land. These should be established in high deer traffic areas. You want every deer on the property to pass within close proximity of a mineral station each and every day.

To start a mineral station simply find a suitable location and kick away any leaves or other debris in about a 3’-4’ circle and pour about 20# of mineral in a small pile. There is no need to work it into the soil although it won’t hurt anything to do so. It is important to keep each mineral site replenished with plenty of Maximizer or Maximizer Plus mineral every 30 days or so. Keep in mind that mineral consumption increases in late winter and continues through the summer. In the fall and early winter consumption will not be as heavy. Remember, proper mineral supplementation is not a quick way to grow bigger antlers but instead is a long term commitment resulting in healthier deer AND bigger antlers.

Successful hunting sessions usually require you to bear the stiff North winds or endure the thick fog while paying attention to your goose spread.

The last part plays a quintessential role during any hunting expedition, and the lack of decoy placement knowledge can result in frustrating failed hunting attempts, especially if you are a novice hunter.

To bag multiple geese, hunters must utilize their hunting ground smartly while creating a foolproof strategy.

In this article, we shall peer into five of the most acknowledged decoy spreads for a successful hunting expedition.

5 Best Goose Decoy Spread With Corresponding Diagrams

The following are five of the best goose decoy spreads with matching diagrams to quickly understand the spread’s structure.

We highly recommend trying all five at multiple expeditions while gauging the season, terrain, and topography of the hunting ground.

#1 Classic U-Shaped Decoy Spread

The U-shaped decoy spread is the most classic and loved spread across the United States. The main shape of the setup alongside the decoy resembles a beautiful U, giving it the corresponding name.

Its U shape helps funnel the geese directly into the middle of this design, which falls in front of the shooters.

You can alter the blind placement according to the weather and climatic conditions, but ideally, a center U blind position can funnel all the geese near the shooter.

Hunters can usually benefit greatly when the blinds are placed in the far front area or apex of the spread during strong winds. Similarly, you can place the blinds at the back of your spread design, giving birds ample time to lower their height from the ground.

We highly recommend this position when you go on a group hunting trip.

Always remember that the wind’s strength dictates your blind placement; stronger winds are ideal for upfront blinds, while low wind conditions are preferable for further back blinds.

Also, ensure that you are hiding all the blinds properly by packing multiple decoys around them. We recommend following a random decoy placement pattern instead of a 2-2 ft measured gap.

A little random spread gives a natural look that can fool and lure the geese easily.

#2 Cross Wind + Sideways U Decoy Spread

Understanding the bird’s instincts and habits shall help you hunt better regardless of the season or hunting location. You will also need your best-looking geese for this specific decoy spread, as it is highly focused on the birds’ instincts.

This decoy is a sideways U decoy mostly used when encountered by crosswinds. Remember that hunters need to bring all their baits for this spread and ensure they look natural to perform effectively.

Start placing most of the decoys around the blinds so the spot is relatively hidden. Content decoys can be equally effective when placed nearest to the blinds.

Also, it is known that geese prefer to land in the middle of a group, so using their habit for our benefit can help hunters lure the bird better.

To do that, you can place four to five active geese in the middle of the zone. Try to use your best-looking geese for this action, and it shall be your staple spread during late-season hunting every year.

#3 The Double V Decoy Spread

Our third decoy spread is the double V design that works exceptionally well in water setup for puddle birds. Another fascinating positive of this spread is its ability to attract multiple primary, secondary, and even oddball duck species.

However, hunters must understand how to lure these geese and other birds.

You can start setting your first V slightly upwards where the wind is supposedly blowing parallel to the river/pond bank. For your second set of V, arrange the decoys behind the first V at a safe distance.

We suggest opting for a reasonable 10-20 yards distance between the first and the second V.

To make the spread more natural and attract small flocks or singles, consider placing single decoys between the V at regular intervals.

Furthermore, to increase the chances of attracting more birds, create secondary decoy spreads near the blind, especially between the gap of both the Vs.

Hunters must remember that puddle ducks habitually land behind the V decoy shape instead of landing in front like most divers.

On the other hand, southern waterfowl hunters hunting in November usually have great success with this spread using a mix of green-winged teal and mallards. Even black ducks, gadwalls, and pintails work well in the location.

#4 X Decoy Spread

X decoy setup is one of the most exciting decoy spreads and usually requires a lot of space for proper execution. The blinds are always positioned in the center of the X as the decoy geese extend in four corners.

That positioning is excellent and highly lucrative with little to no wind.

Additionally, this spread is ideal for hunters who want the benefit of shooting from all directions based on the bird’s landing. If you like the freedom to attack from all directions, this X decoy spread will surely be your staple design for future hunts.

Geese, like other birds, enjoy the safety of multiple birds in one place, but fortunately, this decoy is designed to give hunters ample void spaces for the geese to get drawn into. So, when talking about X spread, hunters get four voids covering all directions.

Shooters can begin hunting as soon as they spot the first group coming towards the spread. You can either consider shooting them overhead or allow them to land and then reposition to shoot for the entire day.

X decoy spread requires double the number of the decoy compared to standard or regular setups. However, hunters usually prefer this spread during the late-hunting season with a strong strategy while using their best-looking baits.

Additionally, this spread allows shooters to utilize the decoys collected for the past few seasons. Lastly, try to mud the blinds and brush them to blend well; it can make a lot of difference.

#5 The Crop Circle Decoy Spread

This crop circle decoy setup works flawlessly even during variable and light winds. Harvested grain fields look attractive enough that geese and ducks tend to come down in any direction.

Furthermore, the circle spread allows the ducks to be in the front, making shooting them far easier. .

To create the most authentic crop circle decoy setup, you need to set up a small flock in a circle with an individual decoy in the center of the ring. The geese then target the inside edge of the ring or directly aim at the center decoy.

The most common and successful decoy has to be the mallards; however, even gadwalls, pintails, and other species can entice the geese.

Furthermore, if you spot Canadian geese near your hunting ground, consider setting up a tiny group of goose decoys far from your main circle spread. Those secondary decoys will surely provide a bonus opportunity when you miss out during the crop circle.

How Many Decoys Should I Bring To Hunt Geese?

It varies from one hunter to another. Some people suggest a modest number, while others will spurt an astonishing number of decoys. However, in our experience, we can tell that even a setup of 15-20 decoys shall work in your favor, provided you know what you’re doing.

Similarly, if you wish to opt for more baits, consider sketching our setups that work well with hundreds of lures. The X decoy spread is one such setup that works efficiently with hundreds of lures.

Apart from personal preference and spread selection, three main factors influence the number of your spread:

Hunting Season

As a general rule of thumb, hunters need to increase or decrease their number of decoys based on the season and its progression. That is mainly necessary because as time progresses, so does the size of the flocks due to migration.

Another remarkable observation passed on for centuries is the geese’s preference. Usually, flocks never land towards decoy flocks smaller than the birds flying above. Thus, the bigger the congregation, the more decoys should be shelled out for the display.

Early season hunting is possible with smaller decoy spreads as the flocks are notably smaller. An average of 15-20 decoys will be sufficient for early-season hunting.

Additionally, we recommend limiting your decoy to a smaller number even if you have access to a good number of baits.

A cluster of lures in the early season can look highly unnatural. For mid-season, keep a safe number of 25- 40 decoys as you shall notice geese migrating to multiple hunting spots.

The birds will start feeling the hunting pressure from the mid-season, so to make the flocks comfortable, hunters need to arrange decoys anywhere from 25 to 40. Lastly, late-season calls for the most significant number of bait spread hunters can set.

Geese are usually in complete migration with many birds in their flocks; therefore, we recommend decoys anywhere between 50-80+.

Shooters must remember that birds feel the most hunting pressure in this period, so luring them becomes relatively challenging. You may succeed with smaller decoy setups if the area is filled with solo birds flying by.

Decoy Type

The decoy type that you will operate ends up playing a significant impact on the quantity required. The most popular decoys consist of windsock, shells, full-body, and silhouette decoys.

Hunters who often hunt with full-body decoys can get away with small spreads featuring lesser baits as the full-body ones have the most outstanding visibility amongst all decoy types.

If you are hunting Canadian geese, oversized shell decoys can undoubtedly become your best friend in the fields. However, shooters opting for silhouette decoys need a significant number of decoys for their spreads.

Since these decoys are 2-Dimensional, hunters need to use a massive number of baits facing in multiple directions.

Hunters On The Field

The decoys on the hunting field are directly proportional to the number of hunters on the ground. You might even see hunters preferring to stick to their ‘1 hunter = 2 dozen decoys’ formula. That formula is a safe bet which ensures that every hunter’s blind is well covered.

With each added hunter, the ground needs a group of decoys to hide that particular blind effectively. If hunters set up an X or V spread, then almost every shooter wants to be at the tip of the V and in the middle of the X.

At such times, to mask the uneven bumps and hunter silhouettes, you need to use a lot of decoys. That allows the hunters to have fair and better shooting opportunities as the geese approach their respective decoy spread.

Effective Goose Hunting Decoy Spread Tips

• Hunters can successfully hunt even if they lack a massive collection of decoys. All they need is a foolproof strategy that works according to the season.
• Ensure to leave enough void for the geese to land perfectly. Decoys that clump too close together usually discourage geese from approaching the spreads. A six to eight feet gap between each bait provides ample space for the birds to land without feeling any suspicion. However, you must place a few decoys together to show a small family grouping. That call is entirely dependent on the type of spread you have chosen in the first place. We recommend using your best judgment with acute observations for a successful trap.
• Always use the wind speed and direction to your advantage. Geese are habitual to landing into the wind, so if the wind is supposedly blowing toward the west, these birds will land facing the west cutting the wind. Wind direction is crucial if you wish to bag multiple birds without losing sight of your prey.
• Try to observe and replicate the behavior of the geese. While scouting for hunting grounds, consider studying the birds and their habits. Check whether they are flying solo or are always in a group. Also, kindly pay attention to their eating, resting place, feeding time, etc. Use this information to sketch an ideal spread that shall work in your favor on the day of hunting.

Conclusion

With those tips, we have come to the end of our geese decoy spread article. We highly encourage novice hunters to use our recommendations and reliable spreads for successful hunting expeditions.

Even if a spread setup doesn’t work out, opt for another while keeping track of the errors. With some consistent trial and error, you shall be able to master the art of skillful spreads.

Contrary to popular belief, venison fat is useable and worth the effort to harvest. While deer tallow isn’t a common term for most folks, it does serve a purpose and has a place in your kitchen.

Until recent times, people had a pretty intimate connection with their food. They knew where it came from and were typically personally involved in every aspect of it from field to table. This connection also gave them first-hand knowledge of more traditional ingredients and how to use them.

In today’s world, that connection and those traditional ingredients and practices have been largely lost to the industrialization and commercialization of our foodstuffs.

In the past, butchering an animal would’ve been done in a person’s barn, depending on the size of the animal it may have been a local, community effort or simply a family event. When butchering, our ancestors generally took the time to harvest and find a use for nearly every part of an animal, including the fat.

What is deer tallow?

Animal fat that is rendered down from deer, elk, moose, caribou, bear, sheep, goats, bovine, and other ruminants is called tallow. While fat rendered pork fat is generally called lard , fat rendered from birds is called schmaltz, and rendered butter is referred to a ghee.

Simply put, deer tallow is created by the act of slowly heating pieces of fat up to melt it, also referred to as rendering. It is then cooled and stored.

While deer don’t have much fat on them and many, many people say it’s not worth the effort to harvest the fat for rendering, it actually is. Just like rendering lard, deer fat has its place in the world well above vegetable oils, which are actually rancid and has been industrially bleached and deodorized to mask its rancidity.

It can seem like it isn’t worth the effort because venison is such a lean meat, but I promise the effort you take to harvest and render deer fat will be worth it.

Where does deer fat to make tallow come from?

Believe it or not, there are different types of fat on a deer. First, and foremost, there is the caul fat which is the thin, lacy fat surrounding the deer’s entrails and is fantastic for covering venison meatloaves or meatballs or using as sausage casing. You can remove it, package it and freeze it for later use.

The next type of fat you’re likely to encounter when butchering a deer is the suet. This is the fat inside the body cavity surrounding the kidneys and such. It is hard and waxy. This is generally the fat that is rendered from a cow, while a lot of people say they don’t care for it from a deer. Me? I use it to render, it does have a higher melting point, though. It’s fantastic for soap making, and can just simply be rendered for cooking, too.

And lastly, is the fat on the outside of the carcass, all those bits that you usually cut away and put in the gut heap, it’s good fat. Unfortunately, if you aren’t hanging your deer in the hide, you need to work quickly so the fat doesn’t go rancid.

Yes, deer fat goes rancid fairly quickly. The reason? Deer fat is high in omega-3s, when the temperature gets above freezing and air begins hitting the fat, oxidation begins. Oxidation causes rancidity.

The quicker you can get your deer broken down, cooled, and out of oxygen (in the refrigerator) the less likely the fat will go rancid, the longer it will store, and the better tasting it will be.

What does venison tallow taste like?

Fat is the flavor vehicle of all meat, not the muscle itself, so fat flavor largely depends on diet. While in the past people made pie crusts out of lard (which does have a pork-like flavor), most of society has become accustomed to vegetable shortening, which has no flavor because it’s deodorized and bleached so eating traditional fats can be a bit of a transition.

Depending on where your deer is from will largely dictate what the fat will taste like. If you hunt in the grain belt, it likely ate a good deal of grain and grass and will taste similar to the beef most of us are used to eating. If your deer ate a lot of acorns, the flavor will be equally delicious. Hunting in areas where deer are small and typically very, very lean, the little bit of fat on it may not taste very good (though, it can still be used to make candles and soap, more on that later).

If you aren’t sure if you want to go to the trouble to render fat you won’t enjoy the flavor of, melt a small sliver in a pan with some water and smell it. If you enjoy the smell, it’ll taste good. If you don’t? I still recommend you render it and make it into good soap or deer tallow candles.

Deer fat is very high in stearic acid, which gives the fat a sort of waxy feel that will coat your mouth. But, if you like beef fat, you’ll enjoy deer fat and rendering it into tallow helps calm down that coating feeling that can be too much for a lot of people.

Even rendered, deer tallow will coat your mouth. A little bit goes a long way. Add small amounts to your cooked summer sausages or deer burger and the flavor is amazing and it’s not too waxy. Add too much, it’s waxy and can be unpleasant.

What are the benefits of tallow?

Tallow of all kinds supplies you with all sorts of essential, fatty acids.

• High in Omega-3s, which can improve cardiovascular health (source).
• High in conjugated linoleic acid (CLA), which has been shown to help in fat loss (source).
• Deer tallow has the highest levels of stearic acid of any food, which can reduce LDL, or bad, cholesterol (source).
• Tallow has a high smoke point and is more stable than industrial cooking oils.
• It’s also fantastic for your skin making it perfect for soap making, lotions, and balms.
• It’s a great, sustainable, local option for fat for cooking or skincare options.
• It enables you to utilize the entire animal, nose to tail, not putting anything to waste.
• Learning to render your own tallow is a self sufficient skill that is worthwhile so that those skills aren’t lost.

What is deer tallow used for?

Like beef tallow, deer tallow has many uses.

• It can be used to add to your deer sausages or ground meat in place of unrendered fat to add a little fat and make the venison flavor really pop. Note: don’t use it in uncooked, dry cured applications as the waxiness of it isn’t very palatable.
• You can use it for frying things like french fries. or sauteeing vegetables.
• Add it to the top of your venison steak or roast for a burst of flavor.
• Use it to waterproof leather products.
• Save the suet to feed your chickens in the winter.
• Make tallow soap, it’s great for making a facial bar since tallow naturally helps remove impurities from the skin.
• Make an emergency jar candle.
• Use it as a fire starter.
• Make tallow balm for healthy, glowing skin.

How to render deer tallow

You will need:

• Deer fat trimmed from around the organs and/or the outside of the animal, if it has hit air for very long, you may want to remove trim off the outermost part of the fat.
• A grinder or a sharp knife and cutting board.
• A large stock pot
• Jars or tubs for storage
• A cup of water

To begin, trim deer fat from the carcass, removing as much meat as you can; immediately refrigerate and cover it until the next day.

Next, you’ll want to either grind the fat with a hand grinder, an electric grinder, or cut it up into small pieces. If you’re cutting it by hand, you’ll want to start with really cold fat, in fact, you may want to pop it in your freezer for a bit to get it really cold, just not frozen.

Alternatively, if you do not have a grinder, you could also pop your trimmed fat into a food processor to get it chopped into little bits.

Place your ground-up fat into a large stockpot, add a cup of water, cover, and cook on the lowest heat setting you possibly can.

Now, you wait. The rendering process will take a long time. It took about 5 hours to render and my 5-quart stockpot was full. You’ll have bits of meat and other impurities that separate from the fat as it’s rendering, this is normal. Check it once in a while to make sure it’s not burning and give it a little stir.

You’ll know the fat is rendered once the impurities are floating (the little pieces of meat generally sink to the bottom of the pot) and the fat is clear and no longer cloudy.

Once rendered, place some cheesecloth in a colander and carefully pour your liquid fat into a bowl.

Next, transfer your strained fat into a pan, or glass jars. I prefer cooling mine in a pan and chopping it up because tallow is very hard when solid and that can make it difficult to get out of the jars.

Deer tallow, like all rendered fats, is shelf stable, once rendered it can be kept at room temperature for a year or longer assuming it is kept cool and out of direct sunlight.

If you’re looking for ideas on how to reconnect with your food, nature, and the heritage way of life, you’ve come to the right place.

Join over 40,000 like-minded folks in my Facebook group, The Self Sufficient Life. You can join by clicking here.

Other Nose-to-tail Wild Game Posts You’ll Love:

• Easy Pan Fried Deer Heart Recipe
• How to Cook Venison Liver

South Africa isn’t often associated with long-range hunting. Many of the game ranches in this vast country are covered with dense bush that limits shots to a couple hundred yards or less. There are exceptions, however, and the Umkomaas Valley is one of them. Located in the KwaZulu-Natal province on the eastern edge of South Africa, the Umkomaas Valley is a 120,000-acre wilderness that borders its namesake river. KwaZulu-Natal is the homeland of the Zulu people, whose warrior King Shaka developed new weapons and tactics, allowing the tribe to gain control over many of the surrounding areas stretching as far north as Mozambique and deep into the interior of South Africa. It’s been said the Zulu stopped the southward expansion of East Africa’s powerful Masai warriors—or perhaps the Masai stopped the northward expansion of the Zulu.

Our hunting party flew from Johannesburg toward the city of Durban, one of the busiest ports on Africa’s Indian coast, passing over a patchwork of agricultural fields perched on the east and west rims of the Umkomaas Valley. The valley itself is a dark, irregular scar on the landscape with high, rocky cliffs and steep slopes covered by snarled thorns. With no fences and minimal hunting, the valley is home to a wide array of endemic African antelope species including Cape bushbuck, Cape kudu, zebra, eland, duiker, and others.

There are also many warthogs, a half-dozen of which were kneeling on their forelegs and trimming the grass around Crusader Safaris’ Umkomaas Valley tented camp when we arrived. The sun was already behind the canyon rim when we began unloading our gear. Crusader Safaris owner Andrew Pringle directed me toward my own canvas tent while a baboon barked in the high rocks above us. By the time I was settled the only sounds in the valley were the hum of insects and the sloshing of the river.

Of the dozens of species of game to pursue in the Umkomaas, a big bull nyala was what I wanted most. Properly referred to as the common nyala (which doesn’t do this species justice: How could a 400-pound animal with ivory-tipped horns, striking chestnut, gray, and white markings, and a magnificent mane qualify as common?), this spiral-horned antelope exists naturally in few places in Africa, and nowhere does it exist in higher concentrations than in KwaZulu-Natal. In fact, some of the biggest nyala bulls on record were killed within a few miles of Crusader’s Umkomaas camp.

The Rifle & Cartridge

By the time I arrived in South Africa in late 2018, the .300 Precision Rifle Cartridge (PRC) had been announced to the public and a handful of long-range shooters were already using the round to ring steel out past a mile. The powerful new cartridge promised good things: based on a .375 Ruger case, the .300 PRC requires a magnum bolt face, but unlike belted magnums, the full-diameter .375 Ruger case allows for substantial powder payloads. The .300 PRC headspaces off its 30-degree shoulder and chamber drawings are precise. Hornady’s initial match load pushes a 225-grain, polymer-tipped ELD Match bullet with a ballistic coefficient of .777 (G1) at 2,810 feet per second, which is nipping at the .338 Lapua’s heels.

The Lapua excels at long-range shooting, but there are only a handful of hunters that carry Lapua rifles in the field. What about the .300 PRC? I wondered if it would make a sensible all-purpose rifle, especially given the popularity of established rounds like .300 Win. Mag., .300 Weatherby Mag., and the .300 WSM. The .300 PRC hadn’t been used extensively in the field to that point. It was powerful and accurate, but was it practical? And did it offer any real advantage over older rounds?

George Gardiner at GA Precision built several early .300 PRC rifles using Templar V2 actions and I carried one of those guns in the Umkomaas. It wasn’t particularly light, with its 26-inch barrel and removable brake, but it was supremely accurate. At 100 yards the GA rifle would place three 212-grain ELD-X hunting bullets close enough to touch, and five shots under an inch was no problem. The early adopters of the .300 PRC said it was the most accurate of the .30-caliber magnums they’d shot, and I’ve found the same to be true.

I topped the rifle with a Trijicon AccuPoint 2.5-12×42 with a green illuminated reticle. For dedicated long-range testing, I would have chosen greater top-end magnification, but the Trijicon’s low 2.5x magnification was important. While I might shoot a nyala at 400 yards, a 40-yard shot through thick brush was also possible. For that, I needed the additional field of view. I also needed a scope that could withstand being bounced around in the bellies of planes, abuse from baggage handlers, and heavy recoil. The AccuPoint checked all those boxes. I double-checked my zero at 100 yards when I arrived at camp and there was no shift in point of impact.

The Nyala Trail

African winter nights can be quite cold. As dim purple light brightened the eastern horizon and the jackals yapped on the crest of the ridges, I slipped from my bed and pulled on extra layers of clothing. After coffee at the main dining patio, I met Professional Hunter Rad Robertson and together we loaded my gear into his Toyota Hilux pickup. We were hunting farther up the valley and needed an early start. The rest of the camp began to stir as we left and began climbing to the rim of the valley.

By sunrise the Hilux was bouncing through dry watercourses along the river’s edge. I’d seen a half-dozen nyala that morning, including what I thought was a particularly good bull, but one that Rad elected to pass. Nyala are creatures of habit who follow the same trails and prefer to hide in familiar patches of thorn. Late in the morning Rad and I found one trail that was particularly well-worn. We climbed through a forest of tombstone-gray eucalyptus trees and settled on a narrow hummock—an ideal glassing point. We did see several nyala cows, which are lighter in build and color than bulls, browsing along the edge of the primary trail that wound through the trees along a dry riverbed below.

It was late in the day when Rad decided to move and check a narrow bowl higher up the mountain. The higher country was much more open and if we found a bull the shot might be 400 yards or more. It wasn’t long until we saw game: A herd of dusty-gray kudu cows were browsing in the blackthorn trees halfway to the top. Their broad ears flapped as they stretched their long, thin necks up to pick the choicest leaves.

Rad, who was resting against the base of an aloe tree, told me he saw a bull. Above the cows a single dark animal moved through the knee-high, winter-dry grass. I looked at the bull through my binocular and waited in silence for Rad’s decision. When the bull started down the spine of the hill 300 yards away, Rad decided the horns measured between 25 and 26-inches. We could find a bigger bull.

We were ready to pull stakes and head back to camp for a braai when Rad told me saw another nyala. He had seen this bull before and recognized its wide, heavy horns which measured perhaps 27 inches in length, which wasn’t much better than the first. But the second bull’s horns were much wider with deeper curls and greater girth. The animal’s shaggy body was noticeably larger than the first, too.

The bull vanished into a thin band of trees and our only course of action was to drop down into the valley and slip back up the other side. With all the game scattered throughout the bowl and across the ridge it would be hard to avoid detection, but we decided to try our luck.

Grey columns of clouds pushed inland from the Indian Ocean and darkened the hills. Carefully avoiding the wait-a-bit thorns and ever vigilant for snakes in the hip-high grass we made our way up through the forest, past the kudu herd and into the trees where we’d last seen the nyala. The bull had moved and Rad spotted him just 70 yards away. I shouldered the rifle, but could plainly see a single bent branch that had been invisible to the naked eye. The branch covered the bull’s vitals, and I held my shot until the bull disappeared into the dark forest.

Minutes later we saw a bull come out along the far edge of the trees farther down the slope. Rad insisted on glassing the animal first because he didn’t want to shoot the smaller bull by accident, but soon confirmed the animal walking across the ridge below us was indeed the older bull.

With shooting sticks to stabilize the rifle and an aloe tree serving as a brace I was quite steady and could see the seam of the front leg. Holding a third of the way to the top of the shoulder I pressed the safety forward, slowed my breath, and shot.

There was a flash of orange flame from the muzzle and all I could see was a halo of light impressions dancing in my eyes. The tracker initially reported that he didn’t find any blood or signs that the nyala had been hit, which concerned me, but in the tall grass thirty yards from where the bullet struck, the bull lay stretched out dead in mid stride. Nyala are impressive animals, but being close enough to touch one offers a close look at their striking features.

The horns are deep walnut in color with semi-translucent tips and are neatly curved. White marks like warpaint dot the face (including the characteristic chevron) and the long hairs of the animal’s mane are banded in shades of black, gray, and tan. At nightfall, we headed down the mountain with my bull.

Mixed Bag

With a bit of luck and some good shooting, a hunter in the Umkomaas Valley could harvest more game in a week-long safari than most North American hunters collect in a decade. Modern safaris are a great way to experience Africa as it was in the glory days, and it’s an important means to feed a community where cattle are scarce and beef is costly (which, in turn, prevents the need for poaching).

These hunts are also a great way to test bullet performance because you have animals of varying sizes offering differing shot angles and ranges. Hornady’s Neal Emery hung around the skinning shed collecting .300 PRC ELD-X bullets from the game that he and I shot. We had a broad selection of animals, too. By the middle of the week, I’d killed a cape bushbuck ram with a high uphill shot measuring about 320 yards, and I tagged an incredibly old common reedbuck ram under almost the same conditions the following day at the far end of the valley.

On the day I killed my reedbuck, Emery shot a larger ram in the same area at about 400 yards. Interestingly, we were able to collect bullets from other hunters in camp who were using .300 Win. Mag. and .300 H&H rifles, and the .300 PRC performed well compared to those older rounds. The .300 PRC didn’t create excessive wound channels and terminal performance was superb on animals ranging from 100 to 450 pounds at distances from 50 yards to over 500 yards. We finished the safari by shooting across a canyon at distances to 1,400 yards. The .300 PRC shines as a target round, of course, and the extraordinarily accurate GA Precision rifles made hitting targets at long range no chore.

The .300 PRC is indeed a great target round, but it’s an equally adept big-game cartridge capable of taking most any game at extended ranges. I came away from the Umkomaas Valley with an appreciation not only for the forward-thinking design of the cartridge but a sincere appreciation for its outstanding versatility.

If you own a good rifle chambered in .300 PRC there’s little you can’t do with it so long as you can handle the recoil, which is substantial but manageable. Hornady makes a compelling case that they’ve developed a multi-purpose cartridge that’s perfectly suited for the shooter who wants a target gun that’s also capable of tackling big-game hunts in every corner of the globe.

Planning a beach or desert camping escapade? Well, before you sink your toes into the warm sand, let’s talk about a tiny but essential detail: the best tent stakes for sand. If you think you can use the stakes you normally bring on a camping trip, I’m sorry to say that they’ll refuse to play nice with the shifting sands, and they’ll leave your shelter teetering with every gust of wind. You’ll need something more specialized, which is why we’ve put together a list of our favorite sand stakes. Whether you’re a seasoned sand camper or a newbie ready to dip your toes into this unique experience, we’re sure you’ll find an option that works for you in our review below.

In this article, we’ll be reviewing the following best tent stakes for sand:

• REI Co-op Snow Stake – Editor’s Choice
• Neso Ground Screw Stakes – Best Overall
• Syarme Sand Stakes – Cheapest Stakes
• 7Penn Spiral Ground Anchors – Most Durable Stakes
• Lifeswell Ground Anchors – Best Bang for Your Buck
• Eurmax Spiral Stakes – Most Versatile Stakes

Best Tent Stakes for Sand – Reviewed

Don’t let the name deceive you – while the REI Co-op snow stakes are obviously designed to be used in snow, they work just as well in sand. As someone who’s used them in the desert a number of times, I can personally attest to their effectiveness.These snow stakes are thin and wide, instead of cylindrical like most tent stakes. You’ll notice a number of holes along the length of the shaft, which allow the sand and snow to better lock it in place. While I find that this design isn’t quite as secure as a corkscrew stake, I do tend to prefer this style for sand because of how easy it is to use. The price is pretty reasonable as well. You can get four of them for under $30, though from experience, I can assure you that you’ll want more. Six is the bare minimum that you’ll want, though I would probably go up to eight, just to be safe. And if you’re worried about how much you’ll get weighed down with that many stakes, don’t be. They’re only an ounce a piece, so you can go pretty crazy before the weight starts to become an issue.Pros:– Lightweight- Easy to pack away- Effective in multiple environments- Good price- Simple to useCons:– They lack some of the securing power that you’ll find in a corkscrew

Made from recycled materials, the Neso ground screw stakes are what you want to have if the REI snow stakes mentioned above aren’t your jam. These guys are incredibly durable and stable, though they do take longer to put into place than the snow stakes. You’ll need to use the included T-Grip tool to twist them into place, even if the sand is easier to work with than soil.Still, this is where I tend to find fault with corkscrew stakes. Desert environments get pretty windy around sunset, and if you’re starting to make camp around that time, it can be a hassle to set up your tent. If your stakes take awhile to get into place, you’re going to need an extra set of hands or two to help prevent your shelter from flying away in the wind.I do wish these were a little longer, but they work well enough for most desert and beach camping. They’re also slightly more expensive than the REI snow stakes, but not by much, so price is still fairly budget friendly. For a versatile tent stake that can be used in sand and other ground materials, the Neso ground stakes are definitely worth considering.Pros:– Durable- Fairly easy to use- Good price- Nice security- VersatileCons:– Take longer to get into place

What can I say about the Syarme tent stakes? They’re cheap and you’ll know it when you use them for the first time, but hey, they still get the job done…for the most part.Okay, I’m being a little pessimistic. While they aren’t going to receive my “best overall” award, they truly are a good option for the occasional beach camping trip. You get a good number of them for the price, allowing you to secure the corners or your tent along with any guylines that you want to setup as well. As long as you stay away from severe wind gusts, you shouldn’t have any problems with the Syarme tent stakes.But that’s where my flattery ends. Not only do they feel cheap, but they also don’t come with any tool to help you twist them into the ground. Considering how sharp the plastic is in a number of places, it’s a great way to cut yourself, if you aren’t careful.I’m also unimpressed with the length of the stakes. Since they’re designed to be used in the sand, I would have expected a few more inches of length to really help provide the security that you need when the wind picks up. As it stands, you’ll be fine in low and moderate wind gusts, but in anything stronger, you’ll start to have stakes pulling out of the ground.Pros:– Good value for the cost- Decently secure- A good number come in the pack- Fine for relatively fair-weather campingCons:– No tools to help you secure them- They like to pull out in strong wind

The first set of steel tent stakes for sand in this review, the durability is reason enough for me to like these 7Penn stakes. They are a little more expensive than every other product we’ve mentioned so far, but it can be a worthy tradeoff, depending on how you plan to use them.However, my biggest concern with the steel is how much heavier it is too. A full 5.5 pounds is no laughing matter, so these aren’t the sort of stakes that you want to carry with you long distances. Backpacking is automatically off the table, which leaves you with car camping – probably at the beach. If that doesn’t bother you, then most of my complaints end there.Overall, they’re a versatile set of stakes that can be used on a variety of terrains. Even so, considering they’re screw stakes, you’ll want to make sure the ground is pretty soft, otherwise you’ll have a hard time rooting them in place. Or, if you can find a stick to thread through the eyelet, I find that the extra leverage can help the stake dig into tougher soil.Generally speaking, I feel pretty confident in saying that these are the most heavy-duty tent stakes in this review. If you need that tough, no-nonsense reliability and don’t care about price or weight, these are the ones for you.Pros:– Highly durable- Very sturdy- Pretty reasonable price- Versatile- ReliableCons:– Heavy

For the price, the Lifeswell ground anchors are actually a pretty good deal. They have a decent length, and the securing power is better than most stakes sporting this style. The alloy steel is also quite durable, and since there’s less material than what you’ll find on the CORQUE stakes, they’re not excessively heavy either. While they do still have some heft to them, you could get away with carrying a set of these stakes on a backpacking trip, if you didn’t mind the extra pound or two.Unfortunately, I find that they aren’t as easy to screw into place as the CORQUE or the Neso ground anchors. While those two come with a twist stick to give you a handhold and some leverage, the Lifeswell stakes don’t give you this luxury. Instead, if you want the process to go quickly, you’ll need a drill. Obviously, most of us don’t think to bring a drill while camping (and many of us probably wouldn’t want to anyway), but it can be workable for car campers setting up shop on the beach. Backpackers, I’m sorry to say that these just won’t work for you. While you can twist them by hand, I’d recommend going with a different stake option to save yourself the hassle.Still, if you have a way to twist them into place, these stakes are an incredibly versatile option that can be used in a variety of terrains. Especially for the price, they give you some of the best bang for your buck.Pros:– Good value for the price- Versatile- Secure- Durable- Decent weight for how strong they areCons:– Need a drill to be secured

Though they’re designed to be used for securing trampolines, the Eurmax spiral stakes are a versatile option that work well in sand as well. As we’ve established at this point, the spiral shape is very effective at locking the stake into place, despite the ever-shifting sands. And, while I do wish they were longer, these Eurmax stakes still do a pretty good job of providing adequate stability.Like the Lifeswell anchors mentioned above, you will need a drill in order to screw these into place. As someone who’s done a bit of desert camping, I just can’t get on board with this design for backpacking, due to the inconvenience. Sure, it works well for car camping, but that’s hardly a good enough excuse to label it the “best overall.”Still, for what it’s designed for, the Eurmax does a great job. The alloy steel is quite durable, and while the weight is on the higher end, it’s not too much of a burden for car campers who need a solid set of stakes for sand.Pros:– Durable- Pretty solid- Good for car camping- VersatileCons:– Price- Weight

Best Tent Stakes for Sand – Buyer’s Guide

Size

In sandy terrain, longer tent stakes are going to be your best bet. I’d suggest you aim for stakes that are at least 12 inches in length, as this extra length allows for deeper penetration into the sand, providing better stability for your tent. With longer stakes, you can minimize the risk of your tent getting uprooted by strong winds or shifting sand, giving you peace of mind throughout your camping adventure.Another aspect to keep in mind is the diameter or thickness of the tent stakes. For optimal grip and resistance against sand shifting, look for stakes with a diameter of around 0.4 to 0.5 inches. This size strikes a perfect balance between strength and maneuverability. Not only that, but stakes with a slightly thicker diameter offer better anchoring and minimize the chances of bending or deforming when driven into the sand.

Weight

When you’re dealing with sand, your stakes need to have enough anchoring power to withstand windy conditions and other unusual elements. But at the same time, they shouldn’t be a burden to carry around. After all, who wants to feel weighed down when enjoying a day at the beach or exploring the desert?That’s where lightweight tent stakes come to the rescue. Not only are they easier on your back, but they also make your life much simpler when it comes to setting up camp. That’s not to say that stakes are very heavy – many of them weigh under a pound (and that’s for the whole set), but any backpacker knows that every ounce adds up. Lightweight stakes make your life easier and leave you with more energy to enjoy your surroundings.

Material

When it comes to securing a tent, sand poses a unique challenge due to its loose and shifting nature, making it more difficult for tent stakes to maintain a firm grip. However, with the right material, you can increase your chances of a successful setup.One of the best materials for tent stakes in sandy environments is aluminum. Aluminum tent stakes are lightweight, which makes them easy to carry in your backpack, and their durability ensures they won’t bend or break easily. The smooth surface of aluminum stakes allows them to slide into the sand with less effort, providing a solid anchor for your tent (assuming they have holes along their length, or they sport a corkscrew design). Additionally, aluminum is resistant to corrosion, so you don’t have to worry about rust even if you frequently camp near coastal areas.Another popular option for sandy terrains is titanium tent stakes. Although titanium stakes can be a bit more expensive than aluminum, they offer several advantages. Titanium is incredibly lightweight, making it ideal for backpackers who value every ounce of weight in their gear. These stakes also have excellent strength-to-weight ratio, allowing them to withstand the forces exerted by the sand. And like aluminum, titanium is also highly resistant to corrosion, ensuring longevity and reliability in sandy conditions.But both of these materials can get expensive pretty quickly, especially titanium. So for those of you who are looking for a more budget-friendly option, plastic tent stakes can be a viable choice. While not as durable as aluminum or titanium, plastic stakes can still perform well in softer sand. They are lightweight, affordable, and less likely to cause damage to your tent if accidentally stepped on. However, it’s important to note that plastic stakes may not withstand strong winds or very compact sand as effectively as their metal counterparts.

Shape

Traditional stakes, commonly known as “Y” or “V” stakes, have been the go-to option for many campers. These stakes feature a simple design with a single or double pointy end, and while they work well in various terrains, they may not be the most suitable choice for sandy surfaces. The reason behind this lies in their shape and smoothness, which makes them prone to slipping out of loose sand.To tackle this challenge, tent stake manufacturers have introduced specialized stakes designed explicitly for sandy environments. One popular option is the “sand anchor” stake, which has a unique spiral shape, resembling an auger or corkscrew. The spiral design allows them to twist deeper into the sand, providing a more secure hold. They are especially effective in preventing your tent from getting uprooted during strong gusts of wind.The kind that I use, though, are the REI Co-op snow stakes mentioned above. Since snow and sand are so similar, if you find a stake that works well in one condition, it will almost certainly work well in the other. As far as the snow stakes go, you’ll notice that they have a relatively flat shape which is marked with holes. Snow (and sand) will fill in these holes, providing the grip you need to secure your tent.

Pack Size

A final tip… Make sure you know how many stakes you’re getting in a pack. Especially when buying online, some stakes are sold individually while others are sold as a bunch, so make sure you know how many you need (and how many you’re getting) before you hit that “Add to cart” button.

At Untamed Space, we’re passionate about helping you have the best camping experience possible. Our team of experts have experience camping and backpacking all over the world, allowing them to provide insightful and relevant content to guide you in your outdoor pursuits.All of our reviews are based on a combination of firsthand experience, extensive research, and an analysis of customer feedback. We are an independent website and do not receive payments or incentives from manufacturers to promote their products, and we continuously update our content to provide new information based on product availability. Wherever you are in your journey, whatever gear you’re searching for, you can be sure to find unbiased and up-to-date reviews for all of your needs.

FAQ

Final Thoughts

When it comes to choosing the best tent stakes for sand, certain key features can make a world of difference in ensuring a secure and worry-free camping experience. Sand poses unique challenges due to its loose nature, which means you need stakes with very specific characteristics.On the whole, we believe the Neso Ground Screw Stakes stand out as an exceptional choice, checking the most boxes with their secure design. With their durable construction, impressive length, and spiral shape, these stakes provide optimal security and stability on sandy surfaces. Their ease of use and ability to withstand challenging conditions make them a top contender for any beach or desert camping adventure.

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Limb lines are an extremely effective and simple method of catfishing. Typical limb lines for catfish setups involve nothing more than stout twine, a heavy sinker, a strong swivel, a sharp hook, and a tasty piece of bait. Instead of attaching this to a fishing pole, you tie it to a supple green limb overhanging the water and motor away to go do other things. In your absence, the limb fights the fish. Clever anglers may set a dozen or more of these lines, and let them “soak” for a couple of hours while they fish with a rod and reel nearby. If they’re lucky, they’ll soon be blessed with a “tree shaker,” a catfish so big it makes the whole tree sway as it struggles to return to deeper water!

Are Limb Lines Legal?

In most cases, yes! Most states allow limb lining in one form or another. In places where catfish are plentiful (throughout most of the southern and midwestern United States) regulations generally permit limb lines, trotlines, and other forms of setlining. Some states may have restrictions on the number of lines or hooks you can have out at once, and most require that the lines be tagged with the owner’s information. It’s important that you read up on your state’s regulations and clarify any questions with local authorities before you begin setting limb lines for catfish.

Limb Line Fishing

Some catfishermen look down upon limb lines, claiming that they don’t require any skill. It’s true that limb lines do set the hook and play the fish for you. But limb lines are to rod and reel fishing what trapping is to hunting. It’s a different way to accomplish the same goal, and you put in all of the hard work and planning on the front end of the project. There is definitely an art to setting limb lines.

For this article, we were lucky enough to be able to interview Art Preller. Art is a longtime limb line fisherman on the White River and the inventor of the Port Arthur Limb Line.

How Deep To Set Limb Lines For Catfish

While many fishermen conceptualize catfish as deep water bottom dwellers, Art knows different. “Catfish are edge dwellers,” he says. “They’ll run the bank edge at night, and you don’t need a whole lot of water to catch them in. I’ve got a three foot paddle on my boat, and if I see a limb that looks good I’ll go over and stick that paddle in the water. If it’s got three feet then I’ll go ahead and set a line. I don’t usually fish all the way on the bottom. I’ll drop the bait down to the bottom and then come up about six inches.”

Setting Catfish Lines – Where To Put Them

We asked Art if he had any advice on what stretches of the bank were good candidates for limb line fishing.

“It depends on what you’re fishing for,” Art replied. “If you’re fishing for flatheads, bluff banks are best. If you’re fishing for channel cats or blue cats, you can really catch them almost anywhere. I like to look for banks with a lot of overhanging brush on them. And the more structure you have around on the edge of the bank, the better.”

Catfish Bank Poles/Diddy Poles – An Option When You Don’t Have A Limb

Sometimes, there just isn’t a limb handy where you want to set a hook. Art keeps a few pvc poles in his boat that can be driven into eroded bluff banks. Referred to as “bank poles” “ditty poles” or “diddy poles,” these simple devices can make you a more versatile fisherman.

Diddy poles can be made from pvc, bamboo, cane, or green willow shoots. Anglers can also purchase premade diddy poles made from fiberglass. These poles are small enough in diameter that they can be set on sunken timber with the aid of the appropriately sized drill bit. If you’re looking to purchase some premade diddy poles, Catfish Getters offers them in several sizes and configurations.

Limb Lines On The River

When setting limb lines on the river, look for breaks in the current. If there’s a seam line in the current, catfish will lurk in the low-flow areas and wait to ambush food swept downstream. The mouth of creeks and sloughs off of the main channel can be productive areas.

Structure can also provide an easy place for catfish to rest and wait for prey. Old docks, fallen down trees, and sunken houseboats or derelict vessels on the bank can be productive places.

How To Set Limb Lines For Flatheads

Flathead catfish are highly regarded by serious catfishermen. “Flatheads are kinda like the crappie of the catfish family,” Art explains. “They have a very white, clean meat because they hunt live bait; they’re not scavengers like the other species.”

So how can a catfisherman target flatheads with his limb lines?

“You’ll definitely catch more flatheads with live bait,” he said. “Down here, we like to use goldfish or rice slicks.” (Editor’s note: “rice slicks” is a colloquial term for Green Sunfish (Lepomis cyanellus). “June is usually the most productive month because they’re spawning. Right now, if we set hooks with live bait, we’re running around a 25% hookup rate for flatheads.”

Best Bait For Limb Lines

What about other species? What’s the best bait for channel catfish and blue catfish?

“Nightcrawlers are always a good go-getter,” says Art. “You’ll mainly catch channel cats on them, but you can catch blues and even flatheads occasionally. You just have to be careful how you run your lines. If you’re using nightcrawlers, wait until sunset to bait your hooks. Otherwise bait-stealers like bream and gar will clean your hooks before catfish can find them.”

“As far as blues go, if you can catch a few skipjack or freshwater drum, you can cut those up and that’s a really good bait for blue cats,” Art explains. “We were out just last week and caught a 22lb blue on a piece of cut drum.”

Best Hooks For Limb Lines

Hook selection is a very important part of your limb line strategy. Catfish run the gamut from 2lb “eatin’-sized” channel cats all the way to trophy-class blue cats that can break the hundred pound mark. You’ll want to match your hook to your target fish’s size.

“I’m not really a trophy catfisherman,” says Art. “I’m just out to fill my freezer. My general rule is if a fish is too big for my filet knife, I’ll let him go. You need big fish in your water to replenish what you catch. So with that in mind, I consider a size two to size four j-hook to be about right for what I’m targeting.”

What about trophy catifsh?

“If you’re going for the big fish, those 50-80lb trophy fish, then you’ll want something bigger. I’d say a 7/0 circle hook would be about right for big fish. You’ll also want to get some bigger swivels. Big catfish are tough on your tackle.”

Best Knot For Limb Lines

For your connections to the swivel and hook, a good, no-slip knot with high break strength such as a Palomar knot is ideal. For your attachment to the limb, a good slip-knot will hold even the largest catfish, but come loose quickly and easily with a tug of the tag end when it’s time to gather your lines back up.

Best Time To Set Limb Lines

Limb lines are usually set at night during the spring and summer months. During this time, catfish feed more heavily at night as the water temperatures cool off. They’ll transition from deep, cool holes to the shallows along the shoreline in search of prey such as shad, bluegill, skipjack, crawfish, and insects.

Fishing at night also ensures that you are avoiding the “bait stealers” Art mentions. If you try to run lines during the day, you’ll have to fight with bream, gar, choupique, and even hungry turtles!

Limb Line String

Catfish are not line-shy. Heavy-duty, tarred trotline cord is strong and holds knots well, two features crucial in limb line string. Art’s premade limb lines come standard with tarred cord rated to 170lbs, plenty strong enough for even the biggest trophy catfish.

Limb Line Weights

When selecting weights for limb lines used in catfishing, it is essential to consider the size and behavior of the catfish species you are targeting. Generally, heavier weights are preferred to keep the line securely anchored to the limb or structure. The weight should be sufficient to counteract the fish’s strength and prevent it from easily breaking free. Depending on the water current and depth, weights ranging from 2 to 8 ounces or more may be suitable. It’s important to experiment and adjust the weight based on the specific fishing conditions to ensure the limb line remains stable and effective in attracting and catching catfish.

How To Make A Limb Line

Limb Line Setup

If you’d like to make your own limbline, start by gathering your materials. You’ll need heavy cord, strong swivels, sharp hooks, and some ½-4oz egg weights.

Start by cutting 2 lengths of cord; a 6-10ft main line and an approximately 2ft leader. Tie a heavy-duty swivel on one end of the main line using an improved clinch knot or palomar knot and thread an egg weight on. In heavy current, you’ll need a heavy sinker to keep your bait submerged. In slack water, use a lighter sinker.

Once the sinker is threaded, prevent it from coming off by tying a simple overhand knot on the opposite end of the line from the sinker. Then, tie a hook to your leader line. Straight-shank hooks can be attached with an improved clinch knot or similar. Circle hooks perform better when snelled. Be sure to use a hook size appropriate for the size fish you are after.

Once this is done, tie the hook and leader to the swivel on your main line. Add a tag in compliance with local regs to your main line, and your line is ready for the water!

Limb Line Rigs

It may not occur to most fishermen, but there is more than one way to rig a limb line. Most anglers will stick with the tried-and-tested Carolina and split shot rigs for limb lines. But there’s nothing stopping you from experimenting! Any live or cut bait rig that you would tie on the end of a rod-n-reel can be duplicated on a limb line. A dropshot rig is a good way to suspend bait off of the bottom, and you can experiment with multiple hooks by mimicking a high-low rig.

Catfish Limb Lines For Sale

While limb lines are simple to make, they do take up a lot of time. And if you don’t already have the hardware on-hand, it can be surprisingly expensive by the time you add up all of the materials plus time and gas to acquire them. Pre-made limb lines are an excellent option for fishermen who are short on time, or who just want to try a couple out on their next fishing trip.

Art Preller’s Port Arthur Limb Lines are an innovative take on limb lines. They incorporate a hi-vis, reflective flagging device that serves as a fish indicator, tag, and storage device. According to Art, “You can put fifty of them in a five gallon bucket and they’re all organized. And when you’re done fishing, they’re easy to pull off of the river so that you aren’t losing equipment or littering the environment.”

Limb Line Safety

Unfortunately, some fishermen give limb-lining a bad name and abandon their lines or leave them unattended for too long. This can be dangerous to wildlife and even people, especially when water levels fall and leave the hooks exposed. Animals and boaters can become hooked or entangled in an abandoned limb line, so always be sure to remove your lines when you are done with them!

Limb Line Lights

Some anglers go so far as to mark their limb lines to make them more visible. A chemical glow stick or inexpensive clip-on light can make it easier for you or unwary boaters to locate your lines in the dark. Reflective tape and hi-vis yellow, orange, or pink lines can also make it easier for you and others to see your lines.

Limb Line Tags

In most states, regulations call for tagging your limb lines. These tags generally require you to provide ID and contact information. In Alabama, for example, lines must be tagged with the owner’s name and either a phone number or fishing license number. This information helps conservation officers to identify the owners of abandoned lines.

Limb Line Storage

Perhaps the most difficult part of fishing with limb lines is keeping them organized! The more lines you run, the harder this becomes. A boat full of lines with sharp hooks and flopping catfish isn’t just frustrating, it can be downright dangerous!

Some anglers keep their lines wrapped around a section of foam pool noodle. Bury the hook point in the foam, wrap the line around the noodle, and tuck the tag end under the last wrap for a clean package that can be easily unwound when needed.

Another storage tactic is to wrap the lines around your fingers in a figure-8 pattern and secure it with a small alligator clip. The wrapped line can then be set into a compartment in a flat, stowaway-style tackle box.

Final Thoughts On Limb Lines For Catfish

In conclusion, limb lines are a highly effective and popular method for catching catfish. This traditional fishing technique combines simplicity and efficiency, making it accessible to anglers of all skill levels. By utilizing strong lines, appropriate bait, and strategic placement, limb lines offer a reliable means of catching plenty of catfish. However, it is crucial for anglers to prioritize responsible fishing practices, ensuring the safety and well-being of both the targeted species and the surrounding ecosystem. By adhering to local regulations and employing responsible fishing methods, anglers can continue to enjoy the thrill of limb lining while preserving natural resources and being considerate of other outdoorsmen.

Full Disclosure: This post may include affiliate links. There’s no extra charge to our readers for using these.

When it comes to self-defense, there are several valid arguments for the 9mm vs 10mm handgun. Both are very popular and have their advantages and disadvantages. However, the 9mm is widely regarded as the ‘ideal’ handgun for self-defense and is one of the most highly used handguns in military and police forces. This goes for both home defense and conceal and carry. The popularity of the 9mm means that largely we have to defend the 10mm to justify it as a viable option.

Understand that the decision of which handgun to buy is a very personal decision. Every person has a different preference on weight, size, power, and recoil. Some people plan to conceal and carry, while others plan to use the weapon for home defense. Some stay in the city and worry about crime, while others spend time in the wilderness and are more concerned with predators. Before making a purchase, weigh your priorities and options to find the perfect fit for your needs.

Because of this, it’s difficult to label one as a better cartridge than the other. We will take a look at these two cartridges and discuss how they are similar and how they differ in some key ballistic and performance categories. We think that by the end of the article you will see that both have merit in the world of handguns.

History

The 10mm handgun was developed through a group effort by Col. Jeff Cooper, Norma, the FBI, and Smith & Wesson. The firearm was designed for use by FBI agents but was quickly set aside for other weapons. Some people claim that the recoil was too much for the wimpy FBI agents. However, the truth is that the weight and power simply slowed down their firing. Additional weight and recoil make target acquisition take a bit longer. When an agent is defending themselves and trying to put two or three rounds on a target quickly, the 10mm was not ideal.

The FBI did find that with different ammo, the 10mm handgun performed better in speed tests. The FBI lite load drastically reduced recoil and helped with performance. However, with a lighter load, it eliminated the need for such a heavy gun. This brought the FBI back to the 9mm, .45 caliber, and sparked the design of the .40 Smith and Wesson. It makes a strong argument for the 9mm vs 10mm.

The 9mm was first developed and used by the German military in the at the turn of the 20th century. From then, the cartridge saw use in both World Wars and was eventually accepted as a highly effective caliber by other European countries and North America. The 9mm soon replaced the commonly used .38 cartridges in the law enforcement community due to its stopping power and low recoil and is probably the most highly used round behind the .40 S&W. The 9mm provided extreme ease of handling, more stopping power than previously used rounds, and could carry more rounds in the magazine.

Let’s just take a look at the specifications of these two cartridges and see how they compare and contrast.

9mm10mm Parent Case7.65x21mm.30 Remington Bullet Diameter0.355”0.400” Neck Diameter0.380”0.423” Base Diameter0.391”0.425” Case Length0.754”.992” Overall Length1.169”1.25” Case Capacity13.3gr24.1gr Max Pressure (SAAMI)35,000psi37,500psi

From the cartridge measurements and specifications, it should jump out immediately that the 10mm Auto is a larger round than the 9mm.

10MM cartridges can hold much heavier bullets than the 9mm with some hunting and self-defense rounds coming in at 180-200gr. These bullets are much heavier than the more common weights used with 9mm rounds which commonly fall between the 115 and 140gr weight.

The 10mm Auto can be packed with a higher charge, which is needed to push such heavier caliber bullets at speeds needed for hunting and self-defense purposes. We will see shortly how these differences affect the terminal ballistics of these handgun rounds.

To compare, we select several specific rounds for each cartridge to compare in several categories. While these selections are only a small window compared to the amount of selections available, they will give us a good idea of how the two cartridges stack up next to each other, and for the most part, these trends can be extrapolated to most options available. Those rounds are listed below.

We also want to point out that you can play around with cartridge loads, including how hot the load is and the bullet type. A lot of shooters will reload their own ammunition to tailor their ammo to their needs. In this article, we are only looking at factory loads of these two handgun cartridges.

Stopping Power

One of the biggest discussion points when evaluating the 10mm vs 9mm or any other comparison of two handgun rounds is power. In self-defense, power equates to penetration or over-penetration. There are two schools of thought on power. Some gun owners want as much power as they can handle. They want to put down any target with one shot, regardless of what happens behind the target. This makes more sense for gun owners that use their handgun in the wilderness. You certainly do not want a lack of power if a bear or a wild hog is charging you.

On the other hand, is it responsible to have that much power? You might take down your target with one shot, but possibly injure or kill somebody standing behind that target or even in another room. It is quite possible for a strong round to travel through a body and then keep going through a wall. In ballistics gel tests a 9mm would typically travel about 13 inches after impact, while the 10mm was sometimes over 17 inches. This means that a 10mm could potentially travel through two people at center mass and still keep going. That is a huge amount of power. Of course, a lot of factors go into penetration and penetration is not the sole determinant of how effective a round is at disabling or deterring an aggressor.

However, in the question of bullet penetration from a 9mm versus a 10mm the key lies in the ammunition. More velocity does not always mean deeper penetration. When you switch to jacketed hollow point defense rounds, the penetration is about the same. The reason is that increased velocity causes a hollow point to spread faster after impact and to spread further. This creates more resistance and slows the bullet more than a round traveling at slower speeds. If you hit your target, the hollow point is just as safe as a 9mm round. While we will look at some numbers shortly, keep in mind that bullet type plays just as big a role in power and penetration. Two bullets with the same energy traveling downwind will penetrate differently if one is a controlled expansion bullet while the other is a hollow point.

More importantly, you should always think about the collateral damage before you fire any handgun. If you are not confident that you can hit your target without hurting other people, you do not take that shot. It is that simple. If gun owners are responsible about the way they use their firearms to defend themselves, then power is rarely an issue.

Before we move on, let’s take a look at some numbers for several popular 9mm and 10mm cartridges. We will look at the energy that is carried by the bullets, which transfers to the target and causes damage. And though we have talked briefly about penetration and the pros and cons to a deep penetrating defense-round, we will compare some sectional density data between the two.

Energy

The kinetic energy that is carried by a bullet is transferred to the surrounding tissue of the target. This kinetic energy damages and destroys tissue, organs, and nerves as it passes through. While only one variable in a bullets power, it is an important one and is easily comparable between rounds. Let’s take a look at the kinetic energy of the rounds we have selected for comparison and see if there are any trends we can pick up on.

It is very clear from this graph that the 10mm Auto rounds carry a much higher amount of kinetic energy from the muzzle out to 50 yards. Right at the muzzle, the 10mm Auto rounds are carrying anywhere from 300-400 more ft.lbs of energy than the 9mm rounds. A lot of shooters might consider this overkill, and for the range or maybe even intruders, it may well be overkill. For taking large game or punching through cover, it’s the amount of energy that is needed to be confident in stopping a charge.

Though the 10mm Auto has a significantly more amount of energy, the 9mm is not to be scoffed at. For self-defense purposes, having a force of 250+ ft.lbs from 25 yards and in is more than enough to cause enough damage to stop an intruder in their tracks. This decrease in kinetic energy, as we will see, also aids in other characteristics that make the 9mm one of the more popular personal defense rounds throughout the world.

Penetration

The best visual method of measuring penetration is through the use of ballistic gels, which we alluded to earlier. While there is nothing wrong with this method, it sometimes gets blown out of proportion, especially when you are trying to compare it to an armored or heavily clothed target, or an animal with a thick hide and skin.

In this section, we will look at the sectional densities of the various rounds. The sectional density is a measurement that comes from the bullets diameter and weight. The higher the sectional density, the greater the penetration potential. Using this, it doesn’t matter what the target is; we can still make accurate comparisons between rounds. We should note, and we discussed this earlier, that the bullet design and jacket are also major factors in how a bullet penetrates. Hollow points with higher sectional densities still might not penetrate as much as a FMJ with a low sectional density.

Still, we have a good selection of bullet types for our 9mm and 10mm selections so the sectional densities should give us some interesting comparisons.

Overall, the 10mm Auto rounds have slightly higher sectional densities than the 9mm rounds. With that being said, we can see that it varies from round to round. The 147gr 9mm round has just as high a sectional density as the 10mm rounds. Others that have lower sectional densities still might penetrate more than other with higher sectional densities due to their bullet design. For example, full metal jackets have a higher penetration than hollow points because they will not expand as rapidly.

For the 10mm rounds, you do need extra penetration for some applications such as hunting. Because of this, a lot of 10mm rounds have bullet designs that feature more controlled expansion. This allows the bullets to reach vital organs of larger animals but still provide enough expansion to cause maximum damage to surrounding tissue. While penetration is an important component to a bullets and cartridges stopping power, it is only a small portion of the overall equation and has other factors that contribute such as velocity, which we will move on to in the next section.

Velocity

Talking about velocity is important when discussing two handgun cartridges that are going to be used for self-defense purposes. Velocity plays a key role in terminal ballistics of the firearm, such as the categories we just finished discussing, and it also plays a role in how the bullet behaves when shot. Though the latter isn’t discussed as often because of the ranges shots are most often taken with these rounds.

Still, we felt that velocity is an important component to properly picking the right cartridge for your needs and will take a look at the muzzle velocities out to 50 yards for the rounds we have used in previous sections.

We can tell right off the bat that the 10mm Auto rounds have a higher muzzle velocity than the 9mm rounds. Most show around 100-200 ft/s increase in velocity, though the heavier 147gr 9mm round shows similar velocity patterns.

This trend continues for the rounds as they move downrange to the 50-yard mark. This trend makes sense as we already know that the 10mm Auto cartridges can pack a substantially larger amount of powder charge than the 9mm and is needed to fire the heavier pullets at a speed where the round would be effective in self-defense and hunting situations. Of course, the speed that these large bullets can travel is most likely going to mean an increase in the amount of recoil.

The increase velocities of the 10mm Auto rounds also affect the bullet’s penetration. The faster rounds can overcome resistance once it hits the target. Of course, expansion is going to slow down the round as it moves through tissue, but as a general trend, when looking at two of the same bullets, the once with a higher velocity is going to penetrate deeper.

Recoil

Recoil is probably the biggest argument in the 9mm vs 10mm debate, but it should not be. Yes, it is true that almost anybody can handle the recoil from a 9mm. Yes, the average 10mm round has noticeably more recoil than the average 9mm round. However, you will see a wide range of results based on the 10mm rounds you choose. If you go with a large, high speed round you will notice the recoil. However, there are plenty of rounds that have a similar kick to a 9mm. Experience handling firearms also plays an important role in handling recoil. Are there instances where the 10mm proved too much for certain agencies such as the short time in service for the FBI, sure, but that does not mean that is a round that no one of could become accustomed to handling with confidence.

Let’s take a look at some recoil data from several popular rounds for both cartridges.

What we are looking at here is the recoil energy produced from firing each specific round. While this is not the actual felt recoil, we can be safe assuming that increased force generated is going to equate to more felt kick.

It’s also important to remember that other factors come into how much recoil is felt when firing both of these rounds. Probably the biggest factor is the weight of the handgun. Shooting the same round from a 2lb and a 1lb handgun is going to feel differently. Most handguns chambered to fire a 10mm handgun is going to be heavier than a handgun chambered to fire a 9mm. This is especially true for handguns designed for concealed carry.

Still, for comparison, we have generated the below data by using a constant firearm weight for all of the rounds.

This is a category where there is no debate. The 10mm Auto rounds produce a significantly more amount of recoil than the 9mm. While the numbers do a good job showing this distinction, we recommend shooting both of these on the range one after another if you have the opportunity. The numbers alone don’t do the difference justice.

For all but the heaviest 9mm round, the 10mm Auto rounds generate 2 to 3X the amount of recoil energy. For handguns, when you get into the 10+ ft.lb of energy for recoil, you are talking about some pretty dramatic recoil and the ability to influence your shot. It also has a big role in putting quick consecutive shots on target.

While the difference in recoil is pretty drastic, it all comes down to the purpose for which you will be using your 10mm. If you are going to be in the bush and need it for protection against predators, then a heavier round and heavier recoil makes sense. Chances are you will only get one shot off anyways. If you are a city dweller and plan on using it against two legged predators, a light round is fine. There is no real benefit to using a more powerful 10mm round for normal self-defense.

Accuracy

In our experience, accuracy with a handgun is all about the handler. At the ranges you are going to be taking shots, there is no wind at play or bullet drop to compensate for. What does effect accuracy the most is inexperience handling nerves, adrenaline, and anticipating recoil.

For the latter, it’s all about practice on the range. We don’t put a lot of stock in other peoples ideas of accuracy. Most of them are phenomenal marksmen. We don’t doubt that, but trying to measure accuracy is difficult in our eyes because of all the factors that can go into it and vary from day to day.

The shooter and the firearm all impact accuracy and to tell which round is more accurate, you need to be on the range with your own handguns and rounds and measure groupings for several days.

With that being said, all of the rounds we have listed in the article and used for comparison have a good reputation for tight groupings at ranges within 25 yards. And since we are talking about the 9mm vs 10mm, recoil is going to play a significant role in any difference in accuracy between these two rounds.

With the 10mm Auto rounds having a significantly more amount of recoil compared to the 9mm rounds there is going to be a learning curve when it comes to placing consecutive shots on target. It’s not impossible, but a lot of potential buyers are going to be looking for a handgun where they can rattle off several shots without having to bring the gun back down several inches to re-center.

Price

In the cost debate between the 9mm vs the 10mm, the 9mm has a slight edge. While the guns themselves are similar in cost, the rounds off the shelf are much more affordable for the 9mm. However, there are two significant points to consider that negate this cost difference. One is that the cost to reload your own 10mm is almost identical to the cost to reload your own 9mm ammo. More and more gun owners are moving to reloading their own ammo to save on cost. I recently wrote an article that showed reloading the average 9mm round saves 73% versus the cost of buying off the shelf.

Moreover, when disaster strikes and ammo is hard to find the 10mm will still be left on the shelf. The 9mm ammo will be the first to go because a much higher percentage of gun owners use 9mm ammo. For me, this is even more important than the cost of the round. Many people hesitated to use their .22 rounds until the option of buying online came around. You simply could not find it in stores. All in all, we would call it a wash for many gun owners.

Let’s take a quick look at how much some specific rounds of this ammunition would cost you at local retailers and online vendors.

AmmunitionPrice (20 Rounds) 9mm Hornady Critical Defense FTX 115gr$17.29 9mm Federal American Eagle FMJ 115gr$14.29 9mm Winchester PDX1 Defender Bonded Jacketed HP 147gr$18.79 9mm Remington Ultimate Defense BJHP 124gr$22.99 10mm Federal Vital-Shok Trophy Bonded JSP 180gr$32.49 10mm Winchester Super-X Silvertip Hollow Point 175gr$21.99 10mm Hornady Custom XTP Jacketed HP 180gr$16.49 10mm Hornady Custom XTP Jacketed HP 155gr$16.49

Unless you’re looking to stock up on some of the high grade hunting ammunition options for the 10mm, there is not a huge difference in price between the better 9mm and 10mm rounds.

You can buy cheaper 9mm ammunition in bulk if you’re just looking to burn some powder at the range and for this, there are not as many options for the 10mm at the same price.

Availability

This is probably the most distinctive difference between these two cartridges. Without a doubt, the 9mm is much more readily available than the 10mm. While the 10mm has had a small resurgence in the handgun world over the last couple of years, you can find an abundance of 9mm ammunition at just about any retail store that carries ammunition. With the 10mm round, you are restricted to large retailers that carry a wide range of ammunition, and even then, you might not be able to find the exact round you are looking for. The internet has made it a bit easier to get your hands on 10mm rounds, but you will also find a lot of boxes out of stock or on back order.

As we stated earlier, there are also a lot more people looking to buy 9mm ammo. For normal day to day use, there is enough to go around, but if the time came to start stocking up heavily, the 10mm, in the end, might be left sitting on the shelf. That’s of course completely hypothetical.

Applications

The purpose of your firearm may greatly determine your argument between the 10mm vs the 9mm. The 9mm has several models with several sizes and several purposes. Just looking at the Glock you have a 17 for home defense, a 19 for primary conceal and carry, and a Glock 26 for a backup or pocket pistol. All of these models have good stopping power but different sizes for anybody’s specific needs. It’s honestly one of the best all around rounds for personal protection. The stopping power and the low recoil make it a round that anyone can become comfortable handling.

The 10mm is a bit more limited. If you needed to, you could use a 10mm for conceal and carry. It would be difficult. The gun is fairly large which makes it hard to conceal and less comfortable. Its primary purpose would be for home defense or wilderness defense and hunting purposes. While this limits the marketability of the 10mm over the entire potential customer base, it makes it the perfect weapon for a portion of the market. The 10mm is a niche around if there ever was one.

Best Rounds

We have looked at several specific rounds for both the 10mm and 9mm cartridge. We want to just briefly pick some of our favorite rounds from this selection for specific purposes. This is by no means a definitive answer for the different categories as we realize that there are a multitude of other options out there and of course, personal preference is a huge factor. Still, for those shopping around, these are our list for the best hunting, self-defense, and range rounds for both the 9mm and 10mm auto cartridges.

Hunting/Wilderness Protection

We don’t recommend the 9mm as a hunting cartridge. If you are looking for a handgun cartridge that is going to be effective hunting or for defense from large predators, you really need to look at larger calibers, such as the 10mm. As far as hunting rounds go, we love the 10mm Federal Vital-Shok Trophy Bonded JSP 180gr rounds. They have the penetration and energy to get through heavy hide, skin, and bones and cause massive damage to vital organs.

Self Defense

One of our favorite 9mm self-defense rounds is the Winchester PDX1 Defender Bonded Jacketed Hollow Point. The 147gr bullet gives it a little bit more punching power and the jacketed hollow point can punch through thicker clothing and still cause a considerable amount of tissue damage. It has a bit more recoil than other 9mm rounds, but it’s nothing you cannot acclimate yourself to after a few hours on the range. Heavier handguns will minimize recoil and makes it perfect for a home defense round.

Range

For this section, we only have a pick for the 9mm, and that is the Federal American Eagle FMJ 115gr rounds. For 50 rounds under $15, it’s hard to find a better deal on reliable ammunition that is not going to jam constantly and foul up your chamber and barrel. They also make a more than effective self-defense round as well.

Conclusion

The comparison between the 9mm vs the 10mm is a tough one for us. The 10mm has die-hard fans that are incredibly loyal. These owners love the power. They like knowing that their target will be disabled with one well-place shot. However, the majority of the market prefers the 9mm. It is more versatile, easier to handle, and safer in the minds of some users. There were undoubtedly several FBI agents that would prefer the power of the 10mm. In the end, the majority ruled and smaller firearms were chosen.

Again, this is a very personal decision. We like both weapons and own both for different reasons. When heading on a hog hunt in March, the 10mm will be along. For everyday purposes, the 9mm is used. Your best bet is to try out both at the range and see how they feel. For most people, if you can handle the recoil the 10mm is pretty incredible. Take your time and find the option that best fits your needs. Despite the differences in the 9mm vs 10mm, both are quality options. We are sure you will be happy with whichever option you choose.

We’re not sure if Bob Carnes knew what he had immediately when he created the Arkie Jig. But we do know what he had was something incredibly special to bass fishing. Carnes was building baits in Arkansas and was looking for a way to make jigs more weedless and attractive to bass. He thought if he could make a balanced head for his bucktail jigs and add a brush guard to protect the hook he could fish his jig in more places.

He saw a TV show where they were using a jig with a fiberguard. At the time he was looking at wire guards for his jigs but the demand for the fiberguard after that TV show aired forced his hand, and he had to figure out a way to mold a fiberguard into leadhead. All the while he was tweaking on the shape of the head to keep it from snagging. It started more like a banana head, then he shortened it and flattened and widened it to make keep it level and upright which was critical to avoiding snags.

Once he got the jig head design and fiberguard correct he began tying the first jigs with bucktail. But he saw the Gilmore Lure Company Spinnerbait had some sort of rubber bands hanging off of it. He wasn’t sure what it was exactly or even how to get a hold of the rubber. He knew underwear had elastic in it as did women’s girdles. They actually traced the girdle’s rubber back to a rubber company and got them to color some rubber for them.

The rest as they say is history, but the lasting effect of some simple necessity has continued for more than 50 years. A skirted snagless jig has arguably won more national tournaments than any other lure. There for a time in the 80s, every tournament of any significance was being won on them. In the early days of the B.A.S.S. Tour, there were something like five tournaments in a row won on Carnes jigs and no one told anyone. They were keeping it secret.

Bo Dowden won the Classic in 1980 on a brown and orange Arkie Jig and the boom for Carnes’s snagless jig was going full steam ahead. The jig was carried in Walmart Stores in the early 70s when it was still just a regional chain. And after word spread and Walmart grew, access to his Arkie jig was much easier.

Now just about every jig manufacturer and component shop carries the Arkie style head for flipping. It was a lasting innovation that is every bit as good today as it was 50 years ago.

Our Skirted Jig Reviews

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It’s always exciting when any branch of the US military starts flirting with a new cartridge, and it’s hard to think of a recent cartridge that has generated more excitement than the SIG .277 Fury.

On paper, this round has some truly staggering statistics, and there are rumblings that the Army is eyeing it to at least partially replace the much-beloved 5.56 NATO.

Today, we’re going to take a look at this new round, the guns that go with it, and what it means for us average Joes and Janes in the civilian world.

WHERE .277 FURY CAME FROM

In April 2022, the US Army announced that they’d selected SIG Sauer’s XM5 rifle and .277 Fury ammunition to partially replace the M4.

So does that mean the M4 and 5.56 are on the way out?

Not even close.

For one, the .277 Fury and the XM5 are only partial replacements.

For two, the Army has hemmed and hawed about replacing the M16/M4 off and on for the almost six decades, and nothing comprehensive has happened yet. The M16/M4 is just too hard to beat in terms of versatility, reliability, and affordability.

While the adoption announcement came in 2022, our story actually begins back in 2017, when the US Army launched the Next Generation Squad Weapon Program (NGSW) to find a common system of 6.8mm cartridges, along with arms to go with them, to replace the 5.56mm M4 carbine, the M249 SAW light machine gun, and the 7.62mm M240 machine gun.

The Army invited firearms manufacturers to submit a new cartridge and accompanying rifle system that met a few different requirements.

The rifle could be no bigger than 35 inches long and 12 pounds (with attachments), able to accurately hit targets out to 610m, able to suppress targets out to 1200m, and able to use small arms fire-control systems.

The ammo needed to match that accuracy, pierce near-peer body armor out to 500m, and use a 6.8mm projectile.

.227 Fury was SIG Sauer’s design for the program, hoping to be adopted. Clearly, that worked out. The round was accepted by SAAMI in 2020, then the round, along with the accompanying XM5 and XM250 LMG rifles, was adopted by the US Army in 2022.

But let’s talk about what the round can do.

.277 FURY CONSTRUCTION & BALLISTICS

When looking at .277 Fury’s ballistics, it’s likely that one of the first things you’ll notice is the round’s incredibly high chamber pressure, 80,000 PSI.

In contrast, the chamber pressure of 5.56 NATO is only roughly 75% of that, at about 60,000 PSI, while 6.5 Creedmoor and .308 Win have only slightly higher chamber pressures at 62,000 PSI. Even a .338 Lapua Magnum is only about 60,000 PSI. In fact, SAAMI recommends that cartridges don’t exceed 65,000 PSI.

So to accommodate for this much higher-than-usual chamber pressure, SIG had to make some unusual design choices.

At first glance, the case seems pretty normal. The body is brass, and while it’s thicker than you’d typically see, it’s not too unusual. Where things really get shaken up is the base of the case, which is made from a separate stainless steel piece, allowing the case to tolerate the higher pressure. The pieces connect with a locking washer.

But what does that higher pressure mean for the performance of this round?

Well, .277 Fury sends a 140 gr round down range at 2,950 ft/s (900 m/s). For comparison, a similarly sized 6.5 Creedmoor round will achieve only about 2,710 ft/s (830 m/s).

That allows the Fury to maintain accuracy at significantly further distances than even Creedmoor, which was specifically designed for long-range target shooting. .277 Fury has a -41 inch drop at 500 yards, compared to 6.5 Creedmoor’s -53 inch drop.

At 1000 yards, SIG says the .277 Fury will drop a whole six feet less than 6.5 Creedmoor and hit the target with 25% more energy.

The real kicker? To reach that speed at the muzzle, Creedmoor needs about a 24-inch barrel, while the Fury will come out of a barrel that’s 8 inches shorter.

If you send a 6.5 Creedmoor out of a 16” barrel you’re looking at more like 2,450 FPS Vs. .227 Fury’s 2,950.

We see higher velocity, around 3,100 f/s, from 5.56 NATO, but with a much smaller projectile, around 62 gr, and the 5.56 NATO doesn’t maintain its trajectory nearly as well either, with a drop of about -90 inches at 500 yards.

All in all, the .277 Fury sounds a whole heck of a lot more effective than 5.56, and looks to be a marked improvement over even something like 6.5 CM…but I still don’t see 5.56 getting replaced anytime soon.

Downsides?

While all that performance sounds great, it’s key to remember that a lot of it comes from the fact that the bullets are about 3 times as heavy as 5.56 NATO. From a boots-on-the-ground perspective, that weight is a lot. We’re already sending our armed forces into harm’s way, carrying a lot of weight. Equipping them with .277 FURY either means a lot more weight or a lot less ammo on their person.

This demands the question, can this really be a viable 5.56 replacement for the average infantry? The Army seems to think so. For now.

Also, the idea of defeating body armor at 500 yards is a big part of the development here, which is a need our military hasn’t really had in most recent conflicts. It’s clear with this requirement that the Army is looking ahead to modern battlefields against better-equipped opponents than what we’ve seen in the last several decades.

Then again, based on what the world has seen in Ukraine for the last year, past reports of “near-peer body armor” might be overstated.

All in all, the .277 Fury is a pretty incredible round, especially for long ranges, but it’s more of a specialty round, while the 5.56 NATO is more of a generalist. Of course, for what .277 Fury is for, it’s very, very good.

The bottom line is that .277 Fury is something of a monster. 6.5 Creedmoor is nothing to sneeze at, and .277 Fury makes 6.5 Creedmoor looks like its kid brother.

WHAT DOES ALL THIS MEAN FOR NORMAL PEOPLE?

Honestly, not much…for now.

The .277 Fury hasn’t had a huge impact in the military as of yet, and it’s certainly not going to replace the AR-15 platform for civilians. And even if you do want to replace your AR with a .277 Fury rifle, there aren’t a lot of options available.

From the time the round was first introduced for civilian use at the end of 2019, Sig had the bolt-action CROSS available for it. At around $1,600 to $1,800, it’s not outrageously priced.

If you can get your hands on it, that is, and that’s a big “if.” While researching for this article, I couldn’t find one in stock anywhere.

Then early last year, SIG introduced the MCX-Spear (SIG’s civilian version of the XM5) chambered in .277 Fury, and just this week added the .308 Win and 6.5 Creedmoor versions. All 3 have an MSRP north of $4,000.

Ammo is a bit easier to get your hands on, but it’s still pretty pricey, generally running at least $1.65 per round for the cheapest stuff. And, of course, you have to get your hands on the rifle first.

On the other hand, other similar rounds like .308 Win and 6.5 Creedmoor are much cheaper and easier to find, and the difference in ballistic performance just isn’t enough to tempt me to pay the higher price for .277 Fury.

So if you’re in the niche group of hunters pushing the 600 to 800-yard range, you might find it worth it, but personally, I’m going to hold off for a while until the price comes down (if it ever does).

Of course, we’ve seen explosions of popularity in rounds adopted by the military, and what the US Army uses has a huge effect on what other service branches pick up. If we start seeing the USMC, Navy, and Air Force picking up .277 rifles, that’s a whole different ball game.

If 6.8×51 becomes a standard NATO cartridge? Forget about. It’ll be around for a hundred years. Will that happen? SIG certainly hopes so, I’m sure, but right now, the Army has only bought into the tune of about $20 million.

Which, in terms of military acquisitions and spending, is basically the equivalent of tipping your Uber Eats driver with a stick of gum.

Still, the round definitely has potential, and it’s one of the most interesting developments in cartridge design that we’ve seen in quite a while, from the hybrid-material case to the insane 80,000 PSI case pressure that blows almost everything else out of the water.

LOOSE ROUNDS

The SIG .277 is a marvel of cartridge development and firearms engineering, but that doesn’t mean it’s a home run just yet. On paper, things look great for this round to succeed and maybe replace some issued M4s.

There are some logistical hurdles in the way of that goal, but it’s always interesting to see a major manufacturer like SIG SAUER really pushing the envelope in terms of cartridge design and putting out something completely new that we haven’t seen before.