How To Find Arrowheads In The Woods: What You Need To Know

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August 20, 2025

Table of Contents

Normal rut expected this season with the help of timely cold fronts

Normal rut expected this season with the help of timely cold fronts

This rut prediction is based on the timing of scrape initiation for each area, which from my years of observations, always occurs during the new moon phase. Scrape initiation is that time when bucks will open up traditional scrape sites for the upcoming season. It’s probably a result of an increase of testosterone and the bucks will not check or work the scrapes again until another month, when the major rut period begins.

Deer seasons are established based upon the breeding season of deer in a particular area. The southwest parishes of the state generally have the earliest dates and therefore open early. Area 2, one of the largest deer sections in the state, has the typical breeding season like many of the Midwest and northern deer states. November is the peak month of breeding activity in this Area. Areas 4 and 9 have December as the major month and Areas 1, 5 and 6 have a late rut in January.

Based on the timing of scrape initiation, I am predicting a 2022-23 rut with the major breeding periods occurring during the early weeks of their breeding range.

What happened in 2021?

An early rut was also predicted for 2021, but based upon hunter harvests and examination of female reproductive tracts, the rut was about a month later than predicted. Now generally these days when things go astray, folks jump to blame climate change, but in this case I don’t think that is the culprit. What did happen was a major hurricane. Hurricane Ida came into the state and left a path of destruction as it moved northward from the coast into the Florida Parishes.

I distinctly remember sitting in my chair that night in the Clinton area watching the storm when the power went out. I tried to contact several friends in north Louisiana to see what they could tell me about the path of the storm and then realized there was no phone service. I knew that wasn’t good. While we had damage on our property, we were spared the destruction that so many received.

After the storm, the weather during September and October was very hot and dry. What really got my attention was the out-of-season flowering of numerous fruit tree species. Our big Red Mulberry tree leafed out and flowered again and actually produced a crop of mulberries. Pears and mayhaws also flowered along with other species of trees that leafed out again.

The storm, with its stressful weather that followed, had an effect on the landscape. I believe it had an impact on the animal ecology and was responsible for a later than anticipated rut. Of course, that’s just me and what I observed.

I hunted the early season in Area 2 in Union and Bossier Parishes and experienced poor deer movement and no success. My prediction for the major rut period in Area 2 last year was mid-October. But based upon breeding dates of does from Bossier Parish that I looked at in early January, it showed that breeding began on Nov. 15, a month later than predicted. Most of my deer hunting is done in Area 4 where I live. In 2021, I had predicted the major breeding to begin in late November. The limited data I was able to collect showed it to be later. I examined a 1 ½-year-old doe that bred on Dec. 8, an older adult doe that was bred on Dec. 20, and a 10-month-old doe that cycled and was bred on Feb. 6.

Late December was predicted for the start of Area 6 breeding and based on data from 10 does that I examined, major breeding began in mid to late January. While deer movement, particularly buck movement, appeared slow, the 2021-22 harvest report showed an increase in the deer harvest when compared to the 2020-21 deer season. While I saw plenty of deer, my sightings of adult bucks was down. It seems they were always a step ahead of me!

It’s just a prediction

Generally scrapes and rubs are often on separate trees but this buck rubbed the tree while also working a scrape. During the minor rut period buck fawns will begin working scrapes.

Therefore, keep in mind that the rut prediction is just that, a prediction.

Weather conditions and changes in the landscape or habitat will affect deer movement and activity. During the major breeding period, most of the does in the population will be bred, at least 70 to 80 percent of them. During the minor breeding period the remainder of the does should be bred. Some of these deer are just young, like a road kill doe that I examined back in May.

This doe was bred as a fawn on Feb. 6; apparently it became sexually active at that time and had its first estrus cycle. Over the years, I have examined 1 ½-year-old harvested does that had fawned based on evidence of lactation, but this was the first fawn that I ever examined with a fetus in the uterus. This is an indicator of a healthy deer herd.

Both the Major Rut and Minor Rut periods are divided into a time of scraping and a time of breeding. Both periods are approximately two weeks long, although the scraping period could only last 5-10 days. Once does begin visiting scrapes and leaving their scent, the bucks will leave the scrapes and start following them. The chase is on followed by a period we often call lockdown, when the breeding takes place and deer seem to disappear from the landscape.

Now, on with the prediction.

Area summaries

Black staining of the tarsal gland is an indication that a deer has been urinating in scrapes.

Southwest Louisiana is the early rut region of the state and the seasons open early to allow hunters to hunt during the rut. All hunters should carefully read the regulations and season literature to know the exact location, dates and limits for each area. There are several public land areas in this region and these generally have different season dates and hunting schedules.

West Bay WMA is always a good area to hunt and last year the early October hunt produced a deer kill per every seven hunter efforts, which is good. The October hunt on Peason Ridge had a deer killed per every 4.5 hunter efforts. This region of the state is best known for waterfowl hunting, but the deer population in these parishes is good as well. They do not produce the true trophy bucks, but will produce a lot of quality adult bucks. The breeding range in these areas is September thru December, but don’t wait until November to start hunting or you may miss out on the best deer movement.

Northwest and Central Louisiana is known as Area 2 and many of these parishes have some of the state’s highest deer kills. Bienville, Union, Claiborne, Natchitoches, Winn, Jackson, Rapides and Webster are in the top 10 deer kill parishes. Bossier, Sabine, LaSalle and Grant are in the top 20. It is evident that there are good deer populations in this region and the major rut occurs in November, so hunting is generally excellent. Many hunters take time off from work on Thanksgiving week, hoping to catch it at its peak over the holidays. The breeding range is October through January, but generally by the end of December, bucks are beginning to drop their antlers. Bodcau and Loggy Bayou WMAs are two great areas to hunt.

The breeding range for Areas 4 and 9 is November through February. Generally December is the peak month of breeding activity and that is the prediction for this year. For whatever reason, Area 4 has been anointed with a three-deer limit, so hunters must be aware of this. This region of the state has been hit hard by hurricanes and for some reason the biologists at LDWF believe deer numbers are down. However, I would suggest that they need to take a closer look at these parishes and re-evaluate the situation. Deer numbers are not down in East Feliciana and some of the surrounding parishes. Public WMAs are limited in this region and an examination of the WMA harvest data won’t get hunters too excited!

Decline in participation

Perhaps providing more hunter opportunity on some of these areas might attract more attention. It appears that the overall trend on the state’s management areas is a decline in hunter participation.

The author said the story of his 2021 deer season was the right place at the wrong time. He said he just could not get on the adult bucks schedule.

Areas 1, 5 and 6 are the trophy buck areas of the state and this is due to a combination of soil, agriculture and bottomland hardwoods.

It also is the area of late breeding and it is not uncommon for hunters to find active scrapes in the woods during February and March in many of these parishes. Unfortunately, one case of CWD has been discovered in a small portion of Area 1, which has resulted in LDWF taking action to prevent its spread. The area of precaution for CWD includes portions of Tensas, Madison and Franklin parishes and hunters should know the detailed rules and regulations for hunting in this area. The primary focus of LDWF is to prevent the spread of CWD into other regions of the state. The western mountain states have been dealing with it since 1967, and it is a problem we do not need in Louisiana. If you look at the map of the CWD outbreak in the U.S., what began as a problem in one deer pen in Colorado, has become a national problem.

I attended a recent legislative hearing regarding the CWD ban in Tensas, Madison and Franklin parishes. All of the legislators wanted to know when would the ban end, how long will this last? Well, the basic answer is it does not end, once you get it, you have it, and it does not go away. Look at the CWD map; the problem just expands and gets worse. Consequently efforts to contain the disease must be made.

This is an agriculture region with bottomland hardwood and batture land, the river’s actual active floodplain, and there is no need to bait, in my opinion. Hunters can plant and hunt over food plots. However, if the disease expands from here into the piney woods, hunters will be facing troubles because of the popularity of baiting.

Many hunters around the state will use deer scents and urine when hunting and the state has enacted specific rules and regulations to address this. Hunters should be aware of this when purchasing these natural deer lures for hunting and use only approved products. It is up to us to do our part and help prevent this serious disease from expanding further into the state.

Hopefully my predictions will provide you with some insight as to the best time to hunt. Some will say that any time someone can hunt is a good time, but I can say with confidence that there are times when you are just wasting your time. The deer are just not going to move! Hunt hard and be safe; share your success with others and help teach the next generation of hunters how to hunt the right way.

Guide to Trapping for Beginners

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August 20, 2025

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If you’re bugging out to the wilderness, or if you’re bugging in near the wilderness, trapping can be a great source of food. The major benefits are that once you’re set up, trapping doesn’t take up much time. If you intend to patrol your property anyway, checking the traps takes even less time. And if you lack the skills (or the ammunition) to hunt, bringing in protein through trapping can be very important.

Trapping might be successful for a short period of time in an urban area, assuming most humans have died of the disaster and therefore competition for this meat is low, but you’ll soon find you have to move to a more plentiful area.

Mostly, learning to trap benefits preppers in the wilderness. Even while you’re on the move, trapping in a wild enough area can bring in breakfast.

Table of Contents

The Knowledge You Need to Start Trapping
Types of Survival Traps
1. Simple Snare
2. Spring Snare
3. Deadfall
Final Thoughts

The Knowledge You Need to Start Trapping

To be a successful trapper, you need to have knowledge about the animal you are trying to trap. For this article, we’ll use rabbit or hare as our example.

rabbit in wild

It’s a plentiful animal that you’re likely to have wherever you’re trapping, and you can bait it with greens and veggies, a good trade for the potential of meat. Plus, skinning a rabbit is fairly easy for the beginner.

Diet: You need to know your animal’s diet in order to place and bait your trap effectively. A rabbit eats grasses and plants at ground level, so you should place your traps there. You can use many garden veggies to bait rabbits. If you find nuisance rabbits are eating in your garden, bait your trap with whatever they are favoring.
Tracks and terrain: You need to know where your target animal hangs out and what its tracks look like. Rabbit tracks are distinctive, with larger back feet and tiny front feet, moving together in a hop-pattern. It’ll be much easier to see these tracks in winter snow. In other seasons you’re more likely to see a game trail, a small path of beaten down grass which the animal frequently travels on.

As for terrain, rabbits like partly open fields full of clover, grasses and their other favorite foods. They tend to eat where shelter, in the form of bushes or logs, is nearby.

Rabbits are very habitual, which makes them a great target animal for the beginner. In fact, if you bug-in on your own property you’ll have a big advantage, because you’ll probably know where the rabbits like to hang out.

Scat, burrows and nests: You also need to know what the scat (poop) looks like and, to a lesser degree, what the burrows, dens, and resting places of your animal look like. Rabbits make pellets, like all herbivores, and they are tiny. Sometimes you’ll find them in a little pile on a rabbit path, and other times the rabbit will have hopped a little bit while doing its business.

A rabbit burrow is often a small hole (10-15 cm in diameter) dug into a slope. While it can be useful to identify a rabbit burrow, trapping right outside of it is often not a great idea.

Rabbits can take the time to really survey their environment from the burrow, and can easily retreat when they sense something is wrong. Plus, there will often be multiple exits, so a rabbit can avoid your trap.

rabbit in jungle forest

Rabbits do not keep their babies in their burrows. Instead, they make separate shallow nests covered with their own hair and grasses. Mom will return once or twice a day to feed them. Don’t trap babies, or nursing moms, you won’t get much meat and you’re cutting into your own supply.

Other behavior: Some animals have more complex behavior and leave more complex signs, like scratch marks, that you will want to learn all about. The only extra detail I can think about for rabbits is their hours of activity: they are most active during dawn and dusk.
Legal information: There are legal restrictions on trapping. If this is a SHTF situation, you may not have to worry about that. But if it isn’t you need to read up on the laws specific to your state. Most areas require you affix your personal information to your traps, and only use certain types of traps, in certain areas, at certain times, with certain target species. Urban settings will have more requirements, which may limit you to using only live-traps and dog-proof traps.
Trap selection and placement: Trapping rabbits in a survival situation doesn’t require anything fancy, a simple snare will do., as long as you place it well, which takes practice. If you’d rather purchase, or are just trying to get some practice, body grip traps are the easiest for beginners, they also offer quick death. Start with just one kind of trap, master it, and move on. Eventually, you may also dabble in other accessories, like specialized bait, calls, smells, heavy-duty gloves, game bags, guns, clubs, and more.
Patience: So much of trapping is waiting. Don’t be discouraged when you initially don’t get anything. And, don’t move your traps for some time, as the more animals get used to a trap the more they will let their guard down around it. An empty but triggered trap, while frustrating, means the location is good.
Dispatch and harvesting: Dispatching is the kind word for killing. You want to do this as quickly and humanely as possible. Few trappers use guns, as most are trapping for furs and guns may cause considerable damage. Rabbits can be bludgeoned to death, or you can learn a technique that breaks their neck. Then, you’ll also have to learn how to harvest the rabbit, which is the kind way of saying skin it and process the meat.

Types of Survival Traps

For legal reasons, you are likely going to want to start out using purchased traps. Primitive, hand-made traps can be illegal, in part because they are usually less humane, and, could be a danger to humans if made large enough. But, you likely won’t have access to purchased traps while you’re bugging out. Knowing how to make a trap can get you a meal anywhere.

To make a survival trap you need a knife, cord, wood, and, optionally, bait. I suggest you start with the simplest traps, aiming for plentiful small or medium-sized animals.

Try to disturb the environment as minimally as possible so there’s nothing to indicate to the animal that you were there. Remember that animals will be using smell too, so make the trap off-sites, try to match materials to the trap location, and use gloves.

1. Simple Snare

A snare is simply a noose. As an animal moves through it, it pulls the noose tight. The more the animal struggles, the more firmly it is trapped.

To make a snare, grab your cord and use one end to tie a simple overhand knot around the other.
Play with the cord until the loop is about the size of your fist (this is for rabbit, bigger animals need bigger loops).
Tie the other end of the string tightly onto something sturdy, a nearby tree branch, buried deep into the ground, will do.
You can now prop up the noose with small, firmly planted sticks. Ideally, these will keep the noose open for the animal to walk into.

You can make a snare out of any string, wire, paracord, or natural cordage. However, remember that snare material needs to be strong. Even small animals will put up a fight, especially if they get caught a while before you show up.

My suggestions are to make simple snares ahead of time and place them in your bug-out-bag.

2. Spring Snare

To make a more successful trap, you can add a spring element to the snare. Young, small saplings can be harnessed to pull the small game up into the air after it is caught. This increases the chances the animal will die a quick death, and can help keep other animals from stealing your prey.

Image Credits

To make a spring snare, first, find a young, green, bendable sapling. Then make a noose.
Next, carve a trigger out of two pieces of wood. These pieces should lock into one another, but not too well. You want it to be barely holding on, that way, it triggers easily to catch your prey. The tension from the sapling will keep a properly flimsy trigger secure.
Bury the bottom portion of the trigger in the ground. Or, carve it into something already in the ground.
Tie the noose to the top portion of the trigger. Tie the top portion of the trigger to the top of the sapling.
Bend the sapling back so it’s under a lot of pressure, and attach the two trigger pieces together.
Now, prop up the snare.

The idea behind this trap is that the animal is first caught in the snare. When it struggles, it dislodges the top trigger piece from the bottom. This releases the sapling, pulling the snare and the animal up into the air. If you caught its throat, it should be strangled to death.

There are many other modifications to snare traps, but this is easiest to start with. Also, be warned, you may find that your snare traps catch the leg of larger animals, especially if you’ve made them strong, so always be prepared to deal with them.

3. Deadfall

Deadfall traps drop heavy objects on the animals in order to kill them. You have to be smart about setting these, so that you don’t hurt yourself and don’t endanger other humans. For starters, don’t stand under the weight.

We’ll start with a smaller deadfall trap, the balance log. This trap requires bait.

Find a “Y” shaped piece of wood. Whittle the bottom and one end into points.
Find another branch, a straight one, and set it on top of a log on one side, and on top of your “Y” wood on the other. You want the branch to sit level and secure. This might require whittling down the “Y” wood a bit more.
Apply bait to the non-whittled end of the “Y” wood.
Carefully lay heavy logs on the crossbar.

The idea behind this trap is that the animal moves under the logs to get to the bait. As it nibbles on the bait it pushes the “Y” bar, which moves easily because it’s only resting on a point. When the “Y” wood falls down, so does the crossbar and the heavy logs. These should knock out the animal.

There are plenty of other kinds of traps you can make by hand, including net traps and spear traps (which can easily maim you and aren’t for the beginner so we won’t cover them here).

Keep in mind that none of these traps are likely to be humane and give you a quick kill. Instead, you need to check your traps regularly and be ready to dispatch a struggling animal when you find it.

Final Thoughts

While you might be subject to a limit by your game laws, in a SHTF situation, it’s always better to have more traps to up your chances of success. Even if the game you’re bringing in is small, a few small animals can make a meal. With a little practice, trapping can be an even more viable method of getting calories.

Author Bio: Ellysa Chenery can be found writing all over the web. She loves adapting traditional skills for new situations, whether in the wilderness, garden, or homestead. Her favorite smell is carrots fresh from the dirt.

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Best Air Rifle Springs

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August 20, 2025

“Unlocking Precision and Power: Discover the Superior Air Rifle Springs for Unmatched Performance”

air rifle springs

When it comes to air rifles, the role of springs cannot be overstated. Air rifle springs play a crucial role in powering the weapon and propelling pellets or BBs. These springs are essential components that provide the necessary force to compress air within the rifle’s chamber, which in turn generates the energy needed for each shot. As such, choosing the right type of spring is paramount for ensuring optimal performance and accuracy.

There are various types of air rifle springs available on the market, each offering different characteristics and benefits. One popular option is the coil spring, known for its reliability and durability. Coil springs are designed to withstand repeated compression without losing their strength over time. Another common choice is gas ram or nitro piston technology, which utilizes compressed gas instead of a coiled spring. This alternative offers advantages such as reduced recoil and smoother cocking action.

Whether you prefer traditional coil springs or innovative gas ram systems, selecting high-quality air rifle springs is essential for achieving consistent power and accuracy in your shots. Additionally, regular maintenance and lubrication of these springs are crucial to prolong their lifespan and ensure reliable performance throughout extended use. By understanding the importance of air rifle springs and making informed choices regarding their selection and upkeep, shooters can enhance their shooting experience and achieve better results on target.

In conclusion, air rifle springs play a crucial role in the functioning and performance of these firearms. Understanding the different types and qualities of springs is essential for shooters to achieve optimal accuracy and power. Regular maintenance and proper replacement of worn-out springs can significantly enhance the longevity and efficiency of air rifles.

Where is the serial number located on Sheridan Blue Streak rifles?

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August 20, 2025

Looking to find the location of Sheridan air rifle serial numbers? Look no further! Our comprehensive guide will provide you with all the information you need. Discover where to locate the serial numbers on your Sheridan air rifle and unlock valuable insights about its history and authenticity.

sheridan air rifle serial numbers location

When it comes to Sheridan air rifles, locating the serial numbers can be essential for various reasons. The serial number of a Sheridan air rifle provides valuable information about its age, model, and manufacturing details. By knowing where to find the serial number, collectors and enthusiasts can better understand the history and value of their rifles.

The location of the serial numbers on Sheridan air rifles can vary depending on the model and production year. However, most vintage Sheridan rifles have their serial numbers engraved or stamped on the receiver or frame of the gun. This is typically found on either side of the receiver near the breech or above the trigger guard. Newer models may have their serial numbers located in similar areas or on other parts of the gun, such as under the barrel or inside the stock.

If you are unable to locate the serial number on your Sheridan air rifle, it is recommended to consult the manufacturer’s documentation or contact customer support for assistance. Having accurate information about your rifle’s serial number not only adds value to your collection but also helps with identifying spare parts, determining authenticity, and ensuring compliance with local regulations.

In conclusion, locating the serial numbers of Sheridan air rifles is vital for various reasons such as authentication, tracking ownership history, and ensuring legal compliance. By carefully examining the receiver or barrel, enthusiasts and collectors can easily find these unique identifiers. Remember to exercise caution while handling firearms and consult experts when necessary.

Shotgun Choke Tube Information

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August 20, 2025

What Is A Shotgun Choke?

A choke is simply a tapered constriction of the gun barrel’s bore at the muzzle end. The exit end of the choke is smaller by some dimension than the actual bore of the barrel. This difference is the amount of constriction. For example if the bore of the barrel is .730 and the exit dia of the choke is .710 you have a constriction of .020. The amount of constriction for a given degree of choke will also vary between manufacturers. As a general rule for standard chokes the total range will be between .000 and .045 thousandths of an inch under bore diameter. In the case of special purpose turkey chokes it can be as much as .100 or 1/10th of an inch. The length of the choke can vary as well. Most, but not all chokes will have an overall length of between 1.5 and 4 inches. Note that many fixed choke barrels marked skeet will actually be .000 or cylinder.

They can be grouped in 3 general types:

1- Fixed chokes- They are made as an integral part of the barrel and cannot be readily changed except by a gunsmith and any alteration is considered permanent.

2- Interchangeable chokes- These can be of the “screw on” style which is externally attached or the “screw in” which is recessed into the barrel. To change the degree of constriction you simply remove and replace with a choke of a different diameter.

3- Adjustable chokes- This style of choke is adjustable throughout the entire range by turning a sleeve, which collapses or allows a collet to expand thus changing the exit diameter. A popular choke of this type is the Polychoke.

The internal design of chokes can also be broken down into three main groups:

1- Conical Parallel- This style has a cone that blends into a parallel section which helps to stabilize the shot charge as it leaves the choke.

2- Straight Conical- This has a cone only. Where the cone stops is the point where the shot exits the choke.

3- Wad Retarding-They do not have the constriction in the same manner as either of the above designs but instead use bumps or projections to alter the shot pattern.

The most common design in use is the conical parallel. All Trulock Chokes are of this design.

Shotgun Bore Diameter and Pattern Performance

I am often asked the above question by people who are interested in purchasing a new shotgun. They reason that if a specific bore size inherently gives better, that is more even patterns, then it makes sense to purchase a shotgun with that bore diameter.

Shotguns that were made in the U.S.A. were for many years, all of the same nominal bore diameter (.730 plus or minus the tolerance of the individual manufacturer) as the U.S. standard for 12 ga was .7299. With the rise in popularity of foreign shotguns such as Beretta we were introduced to smaller bores running in the nominal .721/.725 diameter. Stan Baker to the best of my knowledge was the first to do extensive experiments with backbored barrels (the process of enlarging an existing bore diameter) taking the 12 ga bore up to a nominal 10 ga diameter of .775. Some time back Browning added a new choke design to their line which they named Invector Plus to differentiate it from their original design called Invector. The new chokes and the barrels were based on a nominal .740 bore diameter. I believe that Browning was the first company to offer a factory barrel with a bore diameter that was significantly larger than standard. Currently most of the major shotgun manufacturers offer at least some models with bores larger than their “standard” bores. Some have gone totally to a new larger bore. The results of this are that today’s shooter has a very wide range of bore diameters to choose from.

Pulling from my memory I can recall the following nominal 12 ga. bore sizes. These may not be exact numbers as each manufacturer has plus and minus tolerances. Some of the below numbers have been rounded when converting from metric measurements and some for my convenience.

.725

.730

.733

.735

.740

.745

.774

Now that you have all of the background information, you can get my answer.

I have always been able to obtain the pattern that I was looking for within reason (no 100% patterns at 80 yards) with all of the above bores by patterning with different chokes and or shells. I have had shotguns on occasion that took quite a bit of work to obtain the pattern I wanted but this has never been limited to a certain bore size as they were always a random mix.

Shotgun Patterns

Patterns are normally expressed as a percentage such as 50%, 60%, 70% ect. This is the commonly accepted method comparing pattern density. In a 50% pattern ½ of all the pellets contained in the shell will strike inside of a circle of 30 inches in diameter. To find the percentage of any given load divide the number of hits inside the circle by the total number of pellets contained in the shell. You can obtain the approximate number of pellets any given load will have from a shotgun shell reloading book or you can open a couple of shells and actually count the pellets. Normally all pattern testing is done at a distance of 40 yards with the exception of cylinder and skeet 1 chokes in all gauges and all chokes for the .410 bore which are normally measured at 25 yards. Industry pattern percentages for chokes were developed using the preceding distances. If you want to compare any given choke to the industry figures you should do your pattern testing at the same distance.

The purpose for this is to allow you to select a choke that will throw a pattern that is as large as possible without having the pellets so far apart that the target can move through the shot string without receiving multiple hits. For shooting both game and clay targets you want a pattern that is perfectly even in pellet distribution over the 30-inch circle. Having said that, and after looking at thousands of patterns over a span of 25 years I could count on my fingers the number that I would call “even” and if these were measured close enough they would not have qualified. In this instance “very close” is excellent. Two exceptions to the preceding would be buckshot and turkey patterns. With both of these you are looking for a tight center cluster of pellets.

One thing to remember –The only thing that is consistent about shotguns is that very few things are consistent. Identical guns with the same degree of choke and using the same shell may not pattern the same. The same load between various brands of shells can pattern differently. Patterns will change when changing from hard to soft shot. Patterns can change when anything in the shell changes such as different wads, powders or primers. What I am trying to get across is that when you change anything such as brands, shot size, or components you will need to check the pattern as it could have changed, sometimes by an extreme amount.

Once you find a choke/shell combination that gives you the pattern you want it should remain reasonably consistent as long as nothing is changed. I am satisfied as long as the percentage stays within a 5% plus or minus deviation.

The below chart shows the relationship between the degree of choke, the percentage and constriction based on lead shot. Keep in mind that the percentages are a guide only. What you actually want is a pattern that is dense enough to insure multiple hits on your target at the distance you normally shoot.

Lead Shot Choke Chart

Constriction Percent Cylinder .000 40 at 40 yds- 70 at 25 yds Skeet 1 .005 45 at 40 yds- 75 at 25 yds Imp Cyl .010 50 at 40 yds Skeet 2 (lite mod) .015 55 at 40 yds Modified .020 60 at 40 yds Imp Mod .025 65 at 40 yds Full .030 70 at 40 yds Extra Full .040 73 at 40 yds Turkey .045 Plus 75 PLUS at 40 yds

Keep in mind that this chart should be used as a starting point only. Select the choke and pattern it. Change chokes or loads as needed to get the pattern you want. If you do not pattern your gun please feel free to accept this chart as being infallible.

What Choke Should I Use

The most frequently asked question we get is “What choke do you suggest”?

Use a choke that will give you 70 or so percent patterns at the distance you plan to shoot.

If you look back at the “lead shot choke chart” it is obvious that open chokes at long distances will have a much more open pattern than tighter chokes. I will not argue the point that you can certainly break/kill targets at 40 yards with a skeet choke but the odds are certainly not in your favor. Try your best to estimate the distance that you would normally encounter for a specific shooting condition and select a choke that gives you an evenly spaced 70% pattern with your choice of shell. Rarely, will your estimate be “on the money” so test pattern this combination at distances both closer and farther from your established base line. If the shooting distances change then change your choke to match them.

When I first started dove shooting many years ago, I noticed there were always one or two men at every shoot that almost never missed a bird. After long observation I realized that the one thing that each had in common was that they picked their shots instead of blasting at every bird in the field. They were simply shooting those birds that were within range of whatever gun/choke/shell combination they were using. In my opinion shooting range equals 70% pattern density.

While there are other variables, for all practical purposes chokes will have the biggest effect on pattern density. I look at density from two different ways. The first is the pattern percentage. This is simply a figure telling you how many pellets out of the total number of pellets that were fired at the target hit inside a thirty-inch circle. Example: 250 pellets were in the shell and 200 landed inside the circle. Divide 200 by 250 = 80%. Percentage is percentage and it does not matter what size of shot is used.

The second way is pellet spacing. Common sense tells us that a 1-¼ oz. load of #8 shot will have many more pellets than a 1-¼ oz. load of #4 shot. If both loads pattern at 70% you will have more # 8 shot in the target than you would have with 4’s. The pellets must be close enough that the target cannot slip through. While I generally think that the 70% rule is sufficient, some of the larger pellets may not give enough density. Pattern and make sure.

How To Pattern

I like to use paper that measures 4 feet square. Paper this size may be hard to find locally. If it is not available try taping several sheets of butcher paper or newsprint together. Bruce Buck the “technoid” of “Shotgun Report” suggested using red resin flooring paper. This is available at any home supply store and shows the pellet holes perfectly when viewed from the back. He noted it is available only in 36-inch wide rolls but it cuts and tapes easily. If you use small paper and your gun does not shoot to the point of aim, part of your pattern could be off of the target. You would probably confuse this with a bad pattern. Mark the target center for use as an aiming point. I strongly suggest that you use a padded shooting bench when patterning. At this point you are not checking the gun for fit and a bench rest helps to remove some of the variables. Note that if your head/eye is not located in the same place on the stock between bench rest and offhand shooting your point of impact will be different. From the correct distance, shoot at the center of the target. I would do this a minimum of 5 times on different targets with each shell or choke that is being tested. You will need to draw a 30-inch circle around the most dense portion of the pattern on each target. If you intend to do much of this get a 30-inch diameter piece of thin Lexan [Plexiglas]. You can easily move this around on the paper to find where to draw the circle. Count the pellets inside of the circle. Divide this number by the total number of shot contained in the shell and you will have your percentage. Take the percentage from each target, add them and divide by the total number of shots fired for each shell or choke. This will give you the overall average for that test. Sounds like a royal pain doesn’t it? It is, but there are no short cuts if you really want to know what your shotgun is doing.

After you have finished look carefully at each pattern for holes that are big enough to let your intended target slip through. You want a dense enough pattern to ensure multiple hits.

Point of Impact

We are asked on occasion about chokes that do not center the pattern exactly on the aiming point. Most shooters want a shotgun that centers the pattern exactly with the point of aim. Most shotguns are manufactured in theory to do this. The problem arises between theory and fact. It is not unusual to find shotguns that shoot high or low and to the right or left or a combination of these. Shotguns that pattern ½ above and ½ below the point of aim have what is commonly known as a 50/50 pattern. One that shoots ¾ of the pattern over and ¼ under the point of aim has a 75/25 pattern and so on. Certain guns are designed to give patterns other than 50/50. WE WILL ASSUME that you know if your gun was designed to give a pattern other than 50/50.

Some of the common reasons for off center patterns are listed below.

1-Defective choke tube

2-Bent barrel

3-Choke/barrel alignment

4-Loose barrel

5-Poor gun fit

6-FLINCH

This could also result from a combination of any of the above.

To check your gun for point of aim we suggest the following

1- Shoot from a padded rest.

2- Make sure to get perfect bead alignment if your gun has a center bead, if it doesn’t get the rib perfectly flat, with the bead visible.

3- Use the same load as you will use in the field or on the range.

4- Squeeze the trigger. This is easier said than done as most shotgun trigger assemblies give anything but a good pull.

5- Use targets with a center aiming point.

Shoot several targets, change chokes and repeat.

I would suggest you do this with several different chokes. If you are using aftermarket chokes also test some of the factory tubes that came with the gun.

1- If all of the chokes shoot to the same spot or at least very close to the same, your problem is not with the chokes.

2- If your point of impact changes with each choke you test your problem is not the chokes.

3- If one choke shoots to a different point of aim and the others do not. I would say that choke is defective and a call to the manufacturer would be in order.

One other thing you should be aware of is the “point of convergence” [POC]. This problem will be found only on side-by-side or over/under shotguns. Both barrels should shoot to the same spot. Again what works in theory seldom works in practice. Generally with O/Us the top barrel will shoot high. When testing for proper POC you will find it somewhat easier if you use tight chokes. If the POC is close, be happy, many are not. If you cannot live with the error I suggest you talk to the manufacturer.

Steel Shot/Waterfowl Chokes

Much has changed over the years with steel loadings. The quality and consistency of the shells has been greatly improved. However, the fact that steel shot exerts much more stress on choke tubes has not changed. The problem is that steel shot is much harder than lead. It will transmit much more energy to the choke when it strikes the conical portion and if the tube is not of sufficient strength it will cause it to deform. This is known as “choke creep”

Over a period of time choke creep can lock a choke in the barrel so that it is next to impossible to remove. Most Trulock Chokes are rated for use with steel shot from cylinder bore through improved modified with the exception of the Tru-Choke S.D. which are not recommended for any shot other than lead. In addition our Super Waterfowl Choke was designed especially for steel and all other environmentally friendly shot.

It is strongly suggested that you use our Extended Precision Hunter style choke for steel shot as they normally give a superior pattern over the flush style chokes.

Close Range -approximately out to 30 yards – Skt 1= pattern percentage of about 55% Medium range- approximately out to 35 yards-Skt 2 [light mod] =pattern percentage of 65%

Medium range- approximately out to 35 yards-Skt 2 [light mod] =pattern percentage of 65%

Long Range-35yards and further- Improved Modified =pattern percentage of 75%

Extreme Range= Super Waterfowl series=pattern percentage of 80% plus

The above suggestions normally work well with number (4, 3, 2 ect.) size steel shot. If you are using letter size (BB, BBB ect.) steel you may find your best results using cylinder (close range) improved cylinder (mid range) and modified for long range.

If you are switching from standard velocity steel to fast steel and you notice a decrease in pattern performance try backing off of choke constriction by .005 from whatever size you presently use.

These suggestions should be used as a starting point and should not be taken as a substitute for patterning your shotgun.

The recommendations below are for Trulock Chokes only.

Tungsten Iron- Use the same choke constrictions as you would for steel shot.

Tungsten Shot such as Hevi-Shot, Hevi 13, Winchester Extended Range and Federal Heavyweight.

For waterfowl and upland bird hunting we suggest you use two sizes smaller shot than you would with steel. We find that these alloys can be used in chokes with much more constriction than you can use with steel shot and they retain velocity much better. This, in my opinion makes them the ultimate choice for long range shooting. For normal patterns using # 6 thru # 2 size shot we like a skt 1 for close range, a skt 2 (light mod) for mid range and improved modified for long range. For shots on the long side of 40 yds try the extra full constriction or one of our Super Waterfowl chokes.

This type of shot can be used in our turkey chokes and normally deliver excellent patterns.

Bismuth – Use the same chokes you would use with lead shot.

All current production Trulock Chokes are marked on the body if rated for steel or tungsten or both.

Turkey Chokes

We make a wide assortment of chokes that fall under this heading. No one choke works well in all guns with all loads but one thing has to be consistent, the shot shell. You will have to shoot premium factory loads or assemble your hand loads with the best components available in order to get good dense patterns at long range. While this basically holds true for all shotgunning it is especially so when hunting turkeys. You have a very small kill zone even when the bird is at close range and it is imperative that you know exactly what your shotgun and shell is capable of doing. In testing different shells we have found several that work very well.

1- Hevi Shot

2- Federal Premium Mag Shok Heavyweight

3- Winchester Supreme Elite Xtended Range Hi-Density- No longer loaded but some existing stock may be on dealer’s shelves.

4-Winchester Long Beard™ XR™ Scroll down for more information

As a rule we found that the shells with “heavier than lead” pellets shot tighter patterns than those using lead but this may not be the case with your gun.

To get a dense pattern with a tight center you will need the Precision Hunter style choke. Our three most popular chokes have exit diameters of .670, .665 and .660. Although some shotguns like a .680 generally one of the above ends up working better. We also make a.650 and .640 but these are better suited to card shooting and not live bird hunting as they like smaller # 8 shot better. The smallest exit diameter does not always give the tightest pattern. We find that the smaller the exit diameter the more erratic the patterns. Normally one particular load will pattern considerably better than the rest. Let me repeat that you will be wasting your time to shoot a cheaply made or promotional type shell. We have patterned the above listed shells with our chokes and make the following suggestions.

Suggested turkey chokes and shot size

.690 first choice for .774 bore guns- #5/6 lead, #6 “heavier than lead”

.670 first choice for .740 bore guns- #5/6 lead, #6 “heavier than lead”

.665 first choice for .730 bore guns- #5/6 lead, #6 “heavier than lead”

.660 first choice for .725 bore guns- #5/6 lead, #6 “heavier than lead”

We have NOT had a chance to test Remington’s replacement for Hevi Shot but will do so and post the results.

Please note that a choke of a given exit diameter is usually going to give a different pattern when used in guns of different bore diameters.

Take a Beretta at .723 a Remington at .727 a Browning I.P. at .740 and using a .660 in all three guns normally gives three different patterns. Just because a .660 worked very well in your Remington does assume it will work great in your Browning.

Special Turkey Chokes for Specific Shells

Trulock Fed # 7 turkey chokes

After testing the Federal Heavyweight turkey # 7 we were so impressed we designed a series of turkey chokes especially for this shell. It gave very good results as per the below pattern. The folks at federal tell me that the # 7 tungsten pellet has the same killing power at 40 yards as a # 5 lead pellet.

Federal #7 turkey load fired through Trulock Fed #7 choke at 40 yards.

Winchester Long Beard™ XR™ turkey chokes

These shells use lead shot that are encased in a special solid buffer that fractures upon firing. I don’t have a clue what the buffer is but I can tell you that patterns fired using this type of shell are amazing.

We developed a line of turkey chokes for this shell that is shot size specific. We make chokes specific to the #4, #5 and #6 shot sizes.

Combine the Longbeard XR™ turkey load with Trulock’s new LongBeard XR choke tubes to maximize the shell’s performance. With this remarkable combo, you can expect 10% greater penetration over standard lead loads beyond 50 yards and twice the number of pellets in a 10″ circle out to 60 yds.

#5 Shot #6 Shot

Chokes for Buckshot

As with Turkey chokes you will be trying to get a very dense, tight pattern but since you have such a small number of pellets you cannot afford to have as many fliers. However, the rule about using premium shells does not change. Hard, plated pellets with a buffer will normally shoot tighter patterns with fewer fliers than those loads made with soft lead and no buffer. I would suggest the Precision Hunter style choke [extended] with a constriction of .030. This would be our full choke. Some gun/load combinations will work better with a constriction of .040 (extra full). One of these two constrictions will normally give you a very dense pattern.

The only sure way to know for sure which choke your gun likes the best is to test pattern and see.

Do not use turkey chokes for “00” buckshot. They have too much constriction and will decrease not increase the density of the pattern.

The constrictions suggested were based on the use of 00 size pellets.

We have patterned Hevi Shot’s 9-pellet buckshot load.

We consistently got 6 of the 9 pellets in a 10-inch diameter circle at 40 yards using an extended full and ex full choke.

00 and 000 Buckshot Choke Tubes For Big Game

Deerstroyer™ Choke Tubes

At the 2015 SHOT Show we introduced our Deerstroyer™ style of choke tubes especially for 00 and 000 buckshot sizes. All of these are made in a 4 inch overall length. For 2016 we have redesigned this choke internally for improved pattern performance. All of the Deerstroyer™ chokes have a nominal .030 constriction based on average bore size for each specific model.

Boar Blaster™ Choke Tubes

The Boar Blaster™ style of choke has a totally new internal design consisting of 5 steps with 6 parallel sections. This design has been tested with numerous loads of 9 and 15 pellet 00 and various 000 shells and has shown an increase in pattern density over conventional conical parallel choke designs with every load we have tested. Made from high strength stainless steel with a black oxide finish and knurled head.

Predator/Varmint Chokes

Our suggestions on chokes are as follows.

Mossberg 835’s and similar .774 bore shotguns .710 exit diameter

Browning Invector Plus and similar .740 bore shotguns .680 exit diameter

Remington and similar .730 bore shotguns .670 exit diameter

Beretta Optima Plus and similar.733 bore shotguns .683 exit diameter

Benelli Crio Plus, Mobil style and similar .725 bore shotguns .665 exit diameter

We suggest the below loads

Hevi-Shot Dead Coyote (T Pellets)

Win Xtended Range HD Coyote (B Pellets)

Number 4 buckshot

In any given shotgun you may find one load patterns tighter than another. You will have to pattern your gun to find the best load.

Predator™ Choke Tubes

At the 2015 SHOT Show we introduced our Predator™ style of choke tubes especially for # 4 buckshot and the large pellet predator tungsten loads. All of these are made in a 4 inch overall length with a longer (3 inch) than normal conical section for less pellet deformation. All of these chokes have a nominal .050 to .060 constriction based on average bore size for each specific model.

Choke Cleaning

Ideally chokes should be cleaned each time the gun is used. Plastic fouling and powder residue will build up in screw in chokes much faster than in fixed choke guns. Powder fouling will also work between the choke and the choke counter bore in the barrel. Remove the choke and clean with a toothbrush using some sort of solvent. We use and suggest Choke Shine as a cleaner. Simply, drop the choke into the solution for a short time and it will come out with the fouling dissolved. Clean the inside of the barrel with a cleaner/lubricant such as Clenzoil making sure the threads do not have any residue, lightly wipe the choke with oil and reassemble.

Remember that rust can occur in the barrel and freeze a choke in place even if the choke is made from stainless steel. Waterfowl hunters should pay particular attention to keeping the choke and barrel clean.

Choke Tightness

Although this seems like a no brainer we believe that there is a proper way to install a choke tube. When changing a choke in the field or at the range, wipe the choke with a clean rag to keep any abrasive from being ground into the threaded area of the choke/barrel. Finger tighten and then use a wrench that properly fits the tube to finish tightening using a moderate amount of pressure. This will help keep the choke from loosening up when in use. When a choke is not properly seated the possibility of the shot charge striking the edge of the choke greatly increases. If this happens a bulged barrel and a ruined choke are almost guaranteed. Most chokes will loosen and back out to some degree if they are left finger tight. A perfectly clean, dry choke installed in a clean, dry barrel and moderately tightened with a wrench should not work loose. Having said that, most shooters are better off to make sure that there is a light coating of oil on the choke before installing as this will help prevent rust in the barrel. All chokes should be checked on a regular basis for tightness.

Prior to doing anything with a choke, be sure the gun is unloaded and the muzzle pointed in a safe direction.

Frozen Chokes

We have pulled frozen chokes in our shop of almost every brand. Normally by the time we get the barrel one or more people have attempted to remove the choke. Did you ever wonder where the saying “Fixed Guns Repaired” came from? This is a problem that can be prevented 99% of the time by simply cleaning the choke/barrel on a regular basis. The number one problem is RUST in the threaded area of the choke/barrel. If you keep this from forming, you generally will not experience any problems. The second problem is choke creep [expansion]. This fortunately is much less of a problem than rust. This is caused normally by using large steel shot in tight chokes [full or tighter]. Follow the manufacturer’s suggestions when using steel shot and the odds are very much in your favor that you will have no problems. If choke creep happens you will notice the choke becoming harder to remove and install and if you continue shooting it will eventually lock itself in the barrel.

If you find yourself with a frozen choke my first suggestion is to take it to a competent gunsmith. Make sure the smith has some experience in this line of work.

The information below is not intended to be all inclusive instructions. If you are not responsible for your own actions do not attempt to use any of the suggestions.

Unload the gun, remove the barrel from the action and soak the muzzle in a can of penetrating oil for several days. Make sure the container has a sufficient amount of oil to completely cover the barrel as deep as the choke is recessed. Use a proper fitting choke wrench and try to work the choke back and forth in small increments. If this does not work try letting it soak several more days. Heat applied to the choke area can be of help. Never get the barrel so hot that you cannot touch it with your hand for several seconds. Do not use a hammer of any kind to try and “tap” it. Soaking and low heat will get most frozen chokes out. Take your time, we have seen a number of barrels ruined because of impatience.

Choke Storage

We suggest that you keep your chokes in a padded case especially designed for them. There are a number of quality cases on the market for under $10.99. The purpose is to keep them from hitting each other or any hard object that could cause burrs or deformation. Chokes are particularly susceptible to denting in the skirt area. We have seen this occur on numerous occasions when chokes stored in plain boxes were dropped. We also urge you to clean all of the chokes that have used when you clean your gun. Alloy steel chokes need a light coat of oil prior to storage and stainless steel keeps its rust resistant properties best when it is free from all contamination.

British Shotgun Choke Tube Constrictions

Choke constrictions in Britain are normally marked using a different method that what we are accustomed to seeing here in the United States. In some cases the same name is used in both countries with an entirely different meaning as to the amount of constriction in the choke.

The below chart gives a comparison between the choke name and the amount of constriction.

Constriction Constriction British US Trulock MM Inches Marking Marking Marking .00 .000 Cylinder Cylinder Cylinder .13 .005 Imp Cyl Skeet Skeet 1 .25 .010 1/4 Imp Cyl Imp Cyl .50 .020 1/2 Modified Modified .75 .030 3/4 Lite Full Full 1.00 .035 Full Full

We have tried to give you a very basic course on chokes and their use. If we can be of any service to you please call us. We will be glad to help with any questions or problems you may have. This will be a constantly evolving paper. If you would like to see any subject discussed concerning chokes or related please let us know.

Is it Legal to Shoot an Air Rifle in Your Backyard?

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August 20, 2025

“Backyard Air Rifle Shooting: Know the Rules and Regulations. Discover whether shooting an air rifle in your backyard is legal and safe. Get essential guidelines to ensure responsible and enjoyable shooting experiences within the comfort of your own property.”

can i shoot air rifle in my backyard?

can i shoot air rifle in my backyard

Air rifles are a popular choice for recreational shooting and target practice. However, whether or not you can shoot an air rifle in your backyard depends on various factors such as your location, local laws, and safety considerations. Before engaging in any shooting activities in your backyard, it is crucial to research and understand the regulations specific to your area.

In many residential areas, shooting an air rifle in your backyard may be prohibited due to safety concerns. Backyards are typically confined spaces with close proximity to neighboring properties, which can pose risks if projectiles travel beyond the intended target. It is essential to ensure that you have a safe and suitable backstop or bullet trap to prevent any stray pellets from causing harm.

Additionally, familiarize yourself with local laws and regulations regarding firearms and shooting activities. Some areas may have restrictions on discharging any type of weapon within city limits or within a certain distance from dwellings. It is always advisable to contact your local law enforcement agency or relevant authorities to obtain accurate information about the legality of shooting an air rifle in your specific location.

In conclusion, shooting an air rifle in your backyard is subject to local laws and regulations. It is important to check with your local authorities to ensure compliance with any restrictions or permissions required. Safety precautions should always be taken, such as using a suitable backdrop and ensuring that the area is clear of people or pets.

Alaska Trout and Grayling Fishing Techniques

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August 20, 2025

Alaska’s waters offer plenty of opportunity to hook into grayling, lake trout, rainbow trout, and dolly vardens. Depending on when and where you anticipate fishing and for which species, the methods can vary substantially. We’ve compiled some of the basics to get you started in the right direction.

Table of Contents

Grayling
Lake Trout
Rainbow/Dolly Varden

Grayling

This species is often found north of Anchorage, and is abundant in interior Alaska. An aggressive biter, this fish can be found in most interior waters, and are easily caught in lakes and small streams. While these fish never grow very large (20” is huge), they are a blast to catch and very tasty. Grayling can be found in both clear and murky waters, but can become spooky in bright light. Avoid letting your shadow fall on the waters where you fish.

Flies in size 12-16 (black ant, foam beetle, elk-hair caddis, mosquito, gnat, black wooly bugger, prince nymph and a variety of other natural colored flies, both wet and dry). Get a variety pack of split shot.

Small lures size 0-1 (Mepps Black Fury, Vibrax chrome, bright colors for dark days, dark colors for bright days)

Lake Trout

You guessed it, lake trout are found in lakes and are the largest trout here in Alaska. They move based on water temperature, being inshore when the water is cold, and moving to deeper water as the summer progresses. Your best bet to find these giants of the deep is in interior Alaska, with many great opportunities in the Glenallen area and along the Denali highway.

The general rule is that these fish like to eat other fish, so this is how you target them. Use lures/spinners that have fish patterns, or are blue/chrome. Fishing herring (as bait) on the bottom of a lake can also entice these monsters to bite. For flies, try patterns which resemble smolt or leeches (chrome/blue or dark colors).

Rainbow/Dolly Varden

This is by far the two most widespread species in Alaska, and can be found in lakes, rivers, and streams. Different tackle is used based on location and season, and I’ll cover that here.

Lakes – For spinning gear, try small lures size 0-2 (bright colors for dark days, dark colors for bright days). A bobber with bait also works. Use size 8-12 hooks, a bobber just big enough to see, and single eggs (balls o fire, etc) or popcorn shrimp as bait.

For flies, I’ve had my best luck using dark wooly buggers, twitched through the water like leeches. I would also try (black ant, foam beetle, elk-hair caddis, mosquito, gnat, black wooly bugger, prince nymph and a variety of other natural colored flies, both wet and dry). I always keep a couple obnoxious colors because sometimes, the only way to catch them is to tick them off.

Streams/Rivers – If there are no salmon in the water, then use dark flies (black/purple wooly buggers, prince nymphs, etc). Let these flow with the current, twitching them to give them some life. Aim for overhanging branches and in “slow water” (behind bends, big rocks, fallen trees: anything that creates a hole; a slow patch of water).

If there are salmon in the water, you’re best bet is to use beads (to mimic salmon eggs). Pick a variety of colors, keeping in mind that salmon eggs come out bright deep red, and fade into a creamy pink color over time. You will want to change the color of your bead based on how long the eggs have been sitting in water (sometimes, you don’t know until you try). Bead size also makes a different. Fish the beads behind salmon, being careful not to hook the salmon. Keep the bead flowing at the same pace of the current.

Here is a loose guide on bead size (based on which salmon are in the water). In general, its okay to have beads too small, but not too large.

Kings – 10mm
Silvers/Reds/Chum – 6-8 mm
Pinks – 6 mm

If there are salmon carcasses in the water, you will use flesh flies. Just like beads, these start out bright red, and fade into a dirty white as the flesh ages. These are tied just like normal flies, and fished very similar to beads. Feel free to adjust weight amount if you see flesh flowing faster/slower than current. See the attached diagram.

The 4 Best Scopes for Squirrel Hunting

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August 20, 2025

Squirrel hunting has long held a special place in my heart. It can often be social, the bag limits are generous, and they taste incredible. However, having a successful squirrel hunt is anything but easy. These are small animals. Their quick movement and seemingly endless places to hide makes them a challenging harvest for even the most skilled hunters. Quite possibly one of the most important pieces of gear for a successful squirrel hunt is your rifle’s optic. While having quality optics is undoubtedly crucial for all hunts, this is exemplified as you try to rest your crosshairs on their erratic movement. I have used both ends of the spectrum for my squirrel hunts, and using the best optics speaks volumes.

The two most popular rifle calibers for squirrel hunting are the .22LR and the .17HMR, so we’ll focus on those two when choosing optics. Here are my top picks for optics to use when squirrel hunting with these calibers. There’s an old saying amongst hunters and shooters alike that your scope should cost more than the rifle. While that’s a pretty over simplified motto to live by, there is some great wisdom in purchasing quality optics, especially when pursuing small game such as squirrels.

Editor’s Note: Products featured on Wide Open Spaces are independently selected by our editors. However, when you buy something through our links, we may earn a commission.

Table of Contents

1. The Best Magnification
2. The Best Fixed Magnification Option
3. The Simplest Design
4. The Best Overall Value

1. The Best Magnification

Vortex Diamondback 2-7x35mm, $329, Vortex

Pros:

7x zoom
Very durable.

Cons:

Expensive

Vortex has made a name for themselves for producing high quality, accurate, clear, and dependable optics, and their popularity has grown tremendously over the past decade. This scope is on the higher end of what you can buy for squirrels at $329. But you get what you pay for, and this scope comes with one of the best magnifications in the business. The 7x zoom on this scope provides clear images, the glass is extremely durable, and it is fog-proof for those frostier mornings in the woods. Combining that with Vortex’s impressive warranty, this one is hard to beat for the serious squirrel hunter.

2. The Best Fixed Magnification Option

Leupold FX-3 6×42, $449.99, Leupold

Pros:

An incredibly clear optic.
Weatherproof

Cons:

Fixed magnification might not work for all hunters.

Leupold is one of our favorite brands. They have been consistently making the clearest and most durable glass for essentially longer than anyone. While their prices aren’t ideal for the budget hunter, you are getting what you pay for in this scenario. The FX-3 is a fixed, non-adjustable scope, however, that shouldn’t be an issue for most squirrel hunting conditions. The simplicity of that design in return gives you over 17 feet FOV (feet of view) at 100 yards. That is impressive by any standard. We also just like the reticles Leupold offers in their scopes. And finally, this scope is backed by Leupold’s incredible optic warranty.

3. The Simplest Design

Vortex Crossfire II 4-12x40mm, $239.99, Vortex

Pros:

Affordable
Lightweight

Cons:

Fixed parallax

Is it that surprising that we have two Vortex scopes mentioned on this list? Probably not. But that’s for good reason. The Crossfire II has become one of the most popular scopes for deer and varmint hunters because of its clear glass, simple design, and durability. And it works great on smaller targets like squirrels too. This scope is super lightweight, weighing in at only 14.3 ounces, and having a length of just under 11 inches. The main complaint on this scope has been towards its fixed 50-yard parallax, however, if you’re solely hunting squirrels, that shouldn’t deter you from purchasing it.

4. The Best Overall Value

Nikon Prostaff 3-9x40mm, $199, Walmart

Pros:

Excellent multi-coated lenses
Price

Cons:

Harder to find

The Nikon Prostaff 3-9x40mm is quite possibly the biggest steal in the optic market currently. Its multi-coated lenses increase light transmission up to 90% which is extremely uncommon for a scope that retails for less than $200. This scope is incredible when the hunting conditions aren’t such as lowlight mornings, and poor weather. It is parallax-free at 20 yards. It also features a rather versatile magnification dial, which could come in handy depending on what type of terrain you’re hunting squirrels in. While this scope was designed with smaller calibers in mind, it performs quite well with heavier cartridges.

Hatsan 95 Walnut Stock Review

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August 20, 2025