These fascinating predators are usually presented as creatures coming from the depths of the ocean to hunt and kill humans. But shark attack statistics show that the reality is different.

They reveal that shark bites aren’t as common and deadly as shown in the press. Most attacks are just sharks exploring their territory or mistaking a human for one of the species they like to eat.

But let’s see some of the most exciting numbers on shark attacks.

Top Shark Attack Statistics: Editor’s Pick

• The odds of getting bitten by a shark are 1 in 3,748,067.
• There were 73 unprovoked shark bites on humans in 2021 alone.
• The US tops the list of the highest number of shark attacks recorded.
• Over half of the US shark attacks happen in Florida.
• Surprisingly, death by selfie is more common than being eaten by a shark.
• Great white sharks are the most frequently implicated species in shark attacks.
• There are over 100 million shark deaths per year around the world.
• Shark finning and overfishing are pushing sharks to the brink of extinction.
• Worldwide, Australia is in second place regarding the number of shark attacks.

Curious to learn more about where, why, and how often sharks attack? Read through these eye-opening facts and figures to discover the truth about why these marine animals turn on humans.

Why Do Sharks Attack People

Besides the venomous snake bite, shark attacks account for one of the most common phobias. Even though shark attacks happen, they’re not as common as you think.

However, they still happen, so let’s see how many shark attacks per year there are, why they happen, and when.

1. The odds of a shark attack are 1 in 3,748,067.

(ISAF)

Despite popular belief, shark attacks are pretty rare. There is a higher chance of dying from fireworks than getting eaten by a shark—one in 340,733.

People are also 47 times more likely to die from a lightning strike than a shark bite, a risk surfers take every time they hit the waves during storms.

2. There have been 73 unprovoked shark attacks and bites on humans in 2021.

(ISAF)

Unprovoked shark bites are defined as shark attacks where humans didn’t create any incitement or provocations. There were a total of 137 aggressive human-shark interactions last year, with 39 being labeled as human-initiated.

3. People are more likely to drown than getting bitten by a shark.

(ISAF) (PETA)

The odds of death by drowning are one in 1,134—considerably higher than death by shark bites. Other causes of death more common than shark attacks include traffic accidents, a champagne cork, and a cold.

4. Surprisingly, death by selfie is more common than being eaten by a shark.

(NY Post)

In the period between 2011 and 2017, 259 people around the world died in 137 selfie-taking-related accidents. For comparison, only 50 people were killed by sharks in the same period, according to the data on the average number of shark deaths per year.

5. 51% of shark attacks involve board sports and surfing.

(ISAF)

Boardsports usually take place in surf zones where sharks are known to swim. Also, board sports cause a lot of splashing, i.e., the kind of water disturbances that might attract sharks.

Swimmers were involved in 39% of shark attacks, snorkelers and free divers account for 4% of all attacks, while body surfers make up 6% of incidents.

6. Shark attacks are most likely to occur in September.

(ISAF) (ABC)

When do sharks attack? Analysis of the number of attacks in Florida from 1926 to 2018 shows people are most likely to encounter a shark in September. Data shows there were 103 attacks in September—significantly more than in other months of the year.

Although it’s commonly believed that sharks hunt during dusk and dawn, research indicates that the most dangerous time to be in the water is from 2-3 pm.

7. Several factors contribute to shark attacks on people.

(BBC)

The number of people in the water is directly connected to the number of bites. This could explain why most incidents occur in popular destinations for water activities.

Take the French Reunion Island as an example. It has witnessed a significant rise in tourism and an increase in shark attacks.

Another reason, experts say, is the growing number of seals, one of sharks’ favorite prey. The seal population has increased in Australia and off Cape Cod in the US.

8. Climate change also contributes to shark attacks on humans.

(BBC)

Water pollution, habitat disruption, and a shift in prey distribution due to global warming cause sharks to gather in certain hotspots around the world and thus increase the chances of human-shark interactions.

9. Sometimes, sharks are just curious.

(Britannica)

Shark’s mouth serves as a sensory organ. It allows them to examine an unfamiliar object by biting it. So sharks might bite people to check if they have the same fat content as some of their favorite prey, which we don’t.

The conclusion from analyzing shark attack statistics is that humans are too bony and don’t have enough meat and fat to satisfy sharks’ appetites.

10. There are three kinds of shark attacks.

(ISAF)

As previously stated, sharks don’t always bite to kill. Here are the three most common interactions toward humans:

• “hit-and-run” attacks, which typically take place in surf zones and are the result of poor visibility. In these attacks, sharks usually just bite their prey and—deeming it unsavory—swim away;
• “bump and bite,” associated with feeding intentions, in which sharks first bump into the victim and then bite it repeatedly;
• “sneak” attacks, where biting, unlike with “bump and bite,” happens suddenly and without any warning.

11. Boats and post-mortem bites account for the remaining attacks.

(Forbes) (ISAF)

In 2019, 12 of the remaining 35 shark attacks involved motorized vehicles (up from nine in 2018).

One involved post-mortem bites (down from four in 2018), and one implicated a diver in a public aquarium. Three incidents most likely didn’t involve a shark and were classified as “doubtful.”

US Shark Attack Statistics

The number of shark attacks has been varying over the years—but the US coasts stay among the most shark-infested waters. Let’s see the latest data.

12. The US tops the list of the highest number of unprovoked shark attacks recorded.

(ISAF)

The US accounted for 64% of the total worldwide attacks in 2021, with an estimated 47 cases.

This is 42% higher than in 2020—expectedly, due to more severe COVID restrictions in that period and limited movement of people.

13. 60% of US soil attacks happened off the coast of Florida.

(ISAF)

Known as the shark bite capital of the world, Florida is the state with the highest number of bites historically. In 2021, Florida recorded 28 unprovoked attacks, none of which were fatal. The state also accounts for 38% of all unprovoked interactions in the world.

14. Volusia County, Florida, witnessed over 300 unprovoked shark attacks over the years.

(A-Z Animals)

Experts explain the numbers with murky water due to rain runoff. A shark attack isn’t uncommon in Cocoa Beach (Brevard County) either, with over 155 recorded cases.

Volusia County accounted for 63% of Florida’s total number of unprovoked bites in 2021, with an estimate of 17.

15. There were a number of shark attacks in Hawaii and California.

(ISAF)

In addition to Florida, most shark attacks happened in California and Hawaii.

Hawaii had six shark attacks in 2021, all without any fatalities. Meanwhile, California recorded three attacks, with one person falling victim to the animal.

Other states on the list are South Carolina with four bites and North Carolina with three attacks last year.

16. There was a fatal shark attack in Massachusetts for the first time since 1936.

(Boston.com)

The one deadly attack took place in Cape Cod in 2018, when a 26-year-old boogie boarder died after being bitten by a shark, presumably a great white. This was the first fatal shark bite in the state of Massachusetts in over 82 years.

Where Do the Most Shark Attacks Occur Worldwide

Don’t worry; shark attacks don’t occur everywhere around the world. Here are the most common locations outside the US.

17. Worldwide, Australia is in second place regarding the number of shark attacks.

(ISAF)

There were 12 unprovoked shark attacks in 2021 in the Land Down Under. Out of those, three were fatal attacks. This is lower than Australia’s average of 16 attacks a year over a five-year period.

Australian shark attack statistics indicate that most attacks occurred in New South Wales—six, with two being fatal. In Western Australia, one person died out of a total of four shark attacks.

18. Brazil has had 107 shark attacks and 23 casualties from 1931-2019.

(SurferToday)

Stats show that other countries where shark attacks are frequent include South Africa and the Mascarene Islands.

During the same period, South Africa had 255 attacks, 54 of which were fatal.

Moreover, the Mascarene Islands (Reunion, Mauritius, and Rodrigues) had 46 attacks, 27 of which weren’t fatal.

19. Gansbaai in South Africa is one of the most dangerous shark beaches.

(The Telegraph) (Getaway)

Also known as Shark Alley, this area is home to a colony of 60,000 seals. The great white sharks are known to hunt them.

Data shows there are around five to 10 attacks every year. Most of them happen due to sharks’ curiosity rather than their hunt for humans.

On the other hand, being one of the most dangerous shark beaches comes with economic benefits. Tourists have been swarming to South Africa for a chance to go cage diving with great whites, boosting the local economy.

20. Two fatal attacks occurred in the Bahama Islands and Reunion Island in 2019.

(BBC) (CNN)

One of the deadly attacks occurred off Reunion Island in the Indian Ocean. Surfing and water activities are limited there due to the risks of shark attacks.

This was the 24th incidence and the 11th fatal attack on this island since 2011.

The other fatal incident involved a 21-year-old California resident who had been snorkeling on Rose Island in the Bahamas.

Shark Attack Statistics by Species

Researchers have also discovered that not all shark pieces attack humans. Let’s see what the statistics say about different types of sharks and the likelihood of them attacking humans.

21. Only 5% of over 500 known species of sharks have been involved in attacks on humans.

(Florida Museum of Natural History)

Most shark attacks on humans involve three species: the great white shark, the tiger shark, and the bull shark.

All shark species differ in the way they hunt, where they live, and their motivations. Bull sharks, for example, hunt in shallow and murky water because they rely more on smell and electroreception than sight, the data suggest.

22. The data on the great white shark attacks reveals the species is involved in most human-shark interactions.

(ThoughtCo)

What is the most dangerous shark in the world? Great white sharks are the most intimidating and deadliest. The species is believed to be responsible for 314 unprovoked attacks from 1580-2015, 80 of which were fatal.

These sharks typically eat seals or whales and usually hunt in open waters. Although, judging by some facts, they are known to come close to the shore, as well.

23. Great white shark’s bite force is over 4,000 lbf or 18,216 N.

(A-Z Animals)

The strength of their bite is relative to the shark’s size. Interestingly, female great whites grow 15-16 feet, which is larger than males (11-13). The largest identified reach up to 20 feet in length. The species is also among the fastest sharks, with a cruising speed of 25 mph and bursts of 35 mph.

23. Tiger sharks are the second most dangerous sharks in the world.

(National Geographic)

Tiger sharks have killed 34 people and are responsible for 95 unprovoked nonfatal attacks.

Unlike great whites, who are known to release their prey after they find it uneatable, tiger sharks have a less discerning palate. This means they’re not in the habit of swimming away once they catch their dinner.

24. Bull shark attacks usually occur in shallow waters.

(National Geographic) (Cleaner Seas)

And what is the most aggressive shark? Bull sharks may be the least known species, but they are potentially the most dangerous and aggressive. Because they swim where we swim, the chances of humans interacting with bull sharks are pretty high.

25. There have been no fatalities from hammerhead shark attacks on humans.

(Newsweek)

Only 16 cases of human interactions with this species of shark have been noted from 1900 until today. The majority of attacks by hammerheads happened in Florida. Elsewhere, one occurred in California, one in Australia, and two off the Pacific Islands.

26. The whale shark is the biggest one in the world.

(National Geographic) (Oceana.org)

They might be the largest, but they are less dangerous to humans than some of the smaller shark species. Growing to 60 feet in length, whale sharks only eat plankton.

The shortfin mako—known as the fastest shark in the world—is also not considered dangerous to people. Some fatal attacks have been attributed to this shark, although in most incidents, some other shark species was responsible, most likely a great white.

How Many Sharks Are Killed by Humans Each Year

Statistics show that people kill much more sharks than sharks kill people. It may sound unbelievable, but the numbers don’t lie.

26. There are over 100 million shark deaths annually around the world.

(Insider)

This translates to around 11,000 sharks being killed across the world every hour. On the other hand, there have been 1,400 shark attacks in the US from 1837-2017, only a handful of which were fatal.

27. The demand for shark fin soup causes most shark killings.

(Smithsonian Ocean)

Shark finning is a cruel and vicious method of killing sharks. After the fin is cut off, the rest of the body is thrown back into the ocean, where sharks bleed to death.

When we look at the number of sharks killed by year, we see that 1.3-2.7 million of the sharks killed for fin soup belong to the endangered scalloped hammerhead species and the smooth hammerhead, currently listed as vulnerable by the IUCN.

28. Shark finning and overfishing are pushing sharks to the brink of extinction.

(Smithsonian Ocean)

Sharks are not created for massive fishing because they have low reproductive rates and mature slowly. Therefore, overfishing can destroy an entire population.

Shark population statistics show that certain shark species in Australia have declined by 75-90% due to shark culling. Stats show a growing number of interactions, thus initiating authorities’ deliberate killing of sharks.

Also, the population of some shark species dropped by 60-70% due to overfishing.

29. Sharks are vital to the health of the ocean and the planet.

(Forbes)

As apex predators, sharks keep certain species from becoming too invasive and thus support diversity in the seas, protect coral reefs, and balance the food chain.

Sharks also consume sick and weak animals, maintaining the ocean’s health, and we all know how important that is.

Frequently Asked Questions

What are the odds of being attacked by a shark?

The odds of getting attacked or bitten by a shark are 1 in 3,748,067. Dying by falling, tripping, or slipping are way higher at 1 in 127.

Do most shark attacks happen in 3 feet of water?

Not really.

Divers naturally get more attacked in deep waters, unlike swimmers and surfers whose interactions with sharks happen a lot closer to the coast.

Most divers’ accidents with sharks happen 31-40 feet in the water, while swimmers and surfers get attacked 6-10 feet in.

What beach has the most shark attacks?

The ISAF has named New Smyrna Beach in Volusia County, Florida, “the shark bite capital of the world.”

In 2019, nine shark attacks occurred there, consistent with the annual average for shark bites in the area. In other words, 43% of all incidents in Florida happened in this county.

What are sharks attracted to?

Sharks are believed to react more to sound and smell rather than sight. Some theories propose sharks are attracted to certain sounds made by a surfer in trouble, a sick fish, and the smell of blood.

The presence of blood, however, isn’t enough to provoke a shark attack unless combined with other elements, like splashing in the water or wearing jewelry (which looks like the scales of fish that sharks eat).

Some scientific tests have shown that sharks can distinguish colors, giving rise to “yum yum yellow” theories. Although these theories aren’t scientifically proven, avoiding wearing bright colors in the water might be best.

How far can sharks smell blood?

To be clear—sharks can’t smell a singular drop of blood from a mile. That’s an often repeated myth. They do have a strong sense of smell, however, smelling blood from hundreds of meters away.

What to do if a shark is circling you?

The first and most important thing about reducing the risk of a shark bite is not to panic.

Try to use anything you have as a weapon for striking their sensitive gills and eyes. If you don’t have a weapon, use your hands and feet. Hit as hard as you can and be as hostile as possible.

Sharks aren’t bears, so playing dead won’t work. The best chance of escaping a shark attack is to fight back as well and viciously as possible.

Should you be afraid of sharks?

The short answer is no. As with other animals, it’s more likely that they’re more afraid of us than we are of them.

Sharks have attacked humans, and some attacks are fatal, but so have other animals like mosquitoes, cows, and horses. Also, many interactions between sharks and humans haven’t ended with bites or attacks.

Key Takeaways

Sharks aren’t the dangerous creatures of movies and scary stories. If anything, shark attack statistics show that the number of fatal and nonfatal attacks is declining.

These magnificent fish have survived four mass extinctions of species. Yet, they have trouble surviving humans. More and more sharks are hunted for their fins, caught in nets, and killed.

They are already on the list of endangered species, and their numbers are dwindling. So rather than people worrying about getting attacked by sharks, it’s sharks that should worry about humans and their harmful activities.

Sources

• ABC
• All That Is Interesting
• Amusing Planet
• BBC
• BBC
• BBC
• Boston.com
• Britannica
• Business Insider
• Cleaner Seas
• CNN
• CNN
• Florida Museum
• Florida Museum of Natural History
• Forbes
• Forbes
• Getaway
• Insider
• ISAF
• ISAF
• ISAF
• ISAF
• ISAF
• iucncsg.org
• National Geographic
• National Geographic
• National Geographic
• NY Post
• Oceana.org
• PETA
• Science Daily
• Smithsonian Ocean
• Smithsonian Ocean
• SurferToday
• The Guardian
• The Telegraph
• ThoughtCo
• WFTV

1. Review the Legal Terms

Most importantly, you must have the legal right to go squirrel hunting. Before you head off to the woods, get a small game license (you need licenses for almost all types of game) for the place you are going to hunt.

The terms for attaining a license vary by state or province. So, review the regulations for hunting squirrels in your specific area.

You might only be able to go hunting during specific times of the year when it is squirrel season. This season takes place in most regions during the fall and winter months. The dates vary by each place. There are also rules on where you can hunt.

You may be allowed to hunt on a certain state or provincial park grounds. Some places require you ask for direct permission from the property owner before you start hunting.

Check the bag limits, too. There may be a limit to how many squirrels you can hunt in one day, as well as during an entire season.

2. Choose the Right Time

Look for squirrels during the early morning or late afternoon hours because squirrels are most active at these times. Morning is when squirrels go out to look for food.

It is easy and necessary for them to find food early in the day when they are at their hungriest. Avoid hunting squirrels in inclement weather, as like deer, they move around and can be harder to track.

Late afternoon to early evening is when squirrels bring food back to their habitats. This is when most squirrels are busy foraging, so you should be able to spot them moving around.

3. Look in the Right Places

Plan your hunts in areas where you are the most likely to find squirrels. Check areas where there are lots of trees. These include trees that produce nuts and other items squirrels commonly consume. An oak tree is one of the most popular places to see squirrels.

Any tree that produces the types of nuts or fruit that squirrels enjoy is the place to locate squirrels. Be aware of the type of trees in the area, so you can determine if they are places squirrels may be searching for food.

4. Find the Best Weapon for Squirrel Hunting

Shop around to get the right squirrel hunting weapon before leaving on a hunting trip. Do some target practice using a small game weapon that works best for squirrels.

In the end, choosing the right squirrel hunting weapon boils down to personal choice. Here are the best weapons for squirrel hunting in my opinion:

The Shotgun

Use a shotgun to cover a larger amount of space during your hunt. The spread of a shotgun shell can cover much of a squirrel’s body at once, thus ensuring a better chance of a kill without damaging too much meat.

Be sure to aim the shotgun carefully so it targets the precise area you want to shoot.

Look for a six-shot because it is large enough to target a squirrel without ruining the flesh. Also, choose a barrel 26 inches in length or greater so the shell will move precisely.

Remember, a shotgun will make a loud sound with each round. The noise will most likely scare the other squirrels away. Focus on being precise and cautious when shooting at squirrels or any other small game, for that matter.

When you take aim, remember that the spread on the shotgun shell will move outward a few centimeters after you shoot.

The .22 Caliber Rifle

The second option for a weapon to use is a .22 caliber rifle (my favorite). This rifle uses a smaller ammunition that targets the squirrel and other smaller game with precision.

The ammo will not damage much of the squirrel meat, either. A .22 caliber rifle produces a longer range than a shotgun. The rifle also lets you go after just one part of the squirrel’s body.

Aim to be accurate and hold your firearm steady. Fortunately, most .22 caliber rifles come with an automatic reloading feature. This feature lets you add multiple rounds into the rifle before you start shooting and release one of the rounds every time you fire the trigger.

Be sure to regularly clean the muzzle and barrel to get a more accurate shot.

This rifle works best when you attach a scope to it. A scope gives you a clearer view of your target. It is also important to take wind, elevation, and distance into account when using a scope.

Bow and Arrow

Another option for hunting squirrels is with a bow and arrow. But take note that most squirrels are small and less than a foot in length.

Because they are so small, it could be difficult to hunt squirrels with a large bow and arrow. In other words, leave your deer hunting bows at home.

You should sharpen any arrow you use so it can pierce the squirrel’s body with ease. Even so, any arrow you aim incorrectly could cut through too much of the squirrel’s body, leaving little meat or fur to use.

The Air Rifle

While this might not look daunting, an air gun can be deadly to squirrels, and it is the cheaper option of the bunch. Air rifles are best suited for small game like fowl, rabbits and squirrels.

The only major downside is that it requires a lot of practice for a humane kill, as the area that you must hit is very small for an instant kill.

If you want the animal to die instantly and avoid needless pain or tons of frustration, aim for a head shot, which is also difficult to pull off on such small targets. Plus, larger squirrels can absorb multiple hits and evade if you miss the head.

Here’s some smooth action with an air rifle:

Exploring the Legal Possibilities: Can a Felon Legally Own an Air Rifle? Delve into the complex world of firearm ownership rights for individuals with criminal records, as we examine the specific regulations surrounding air rifles. Gain insights into the legal implications and potential restrictions faced by felons seeking to possess these non-lethal firearms.

Can a felon own an air rifle

In the United States, the ownership of firearms by felons is heavily regulated due to their criminal history. While federal law prohibits individuals with felony convictions from possessing firearms, the specific regulations surrounding air rifles are not as clear-cut. This raises the question of whether felons are allowed to own and possess air rifles.

The answer to this question largely depends on state laws and individual circumstances. In some states, felons may be prohibited from owning any type of firearm, including air rifles. These states generally classify air rifles as firearms and apply similar restrictions to them as they do to traditional firearms. On the other hand, there are states that do not consider air rifles as firearms and therefore allow felons to possess them.

It is important for felons to fully understand their state’s laws regarding air rifles before attempting to purchase or possess one. Consulting with an attorney or local law enforcement can provide clarification on whether or not ownership of an air rifle is permissible for individuals with felony convictions in a particular jurisdiction.

In many jurisdictions, felons are prohibited from owning firearms. However, the legal status of air rifles for felons varies by location. While some states classify them as firearms, others do not. It is crucial for individuals with a felony record to research and understand their local laws regarding air rifle ownership to avoid any potential legal consequences.

FIRST, SOME HISTORY

Well, here’s a surprise! Although HAM has kept you covered on Benjamin Bulldog progress since before its launch, we’ve never published a comprehensive shooting test review before. So now we’re shooting the Bulldog M357!

The Benjamin Bulldog was first launched at the 2015 SHOT Show. But there had been a “sneak peak” before this. On 14 July 2014 – yes, nearly nine years ago! – HAM brought you the first, brief, details of a new .357 caliber replacement for the Benjamin Rogue.

This was the first sighting of the Bulldog. It was certainly demolishing cinder blocks at 55 yards and we were all mightily impressed!

Since that time, HAM has featured the Bulldog occasionally. I shot it myself in June 2019 – as you’ll see below – but for some now long-forgotten reason the story was not published.

Then in 2021, we carried this story about the best way to mount a bipod on the Bulldog. It’s the Leapers UTG Over Bore Bipod.

That information is even more pertinent for the Benjamin Bulldog M357 because the new model has no Picatinny rail under the forend (as the first model did). If you want to use a bipod with the M357, an above bore model is the only way to go.

BUY FROM AMAZON UTG TL-BPOB01-A Over Bore Bipod, 7″-11″ Center Height, Picatinny

Then, in March 2024, HAM carried a first look at the new Benjamin Bulldog M357. We liked what we saw, but a vacation (good) and a long bout of COVID (bad) meant that it’s taken until now to actually shoot the gun under controlled test conditions and publish this comprehensive test review.

VALUE FOR MONEY

Selling for $929.99, the Benjamin Bulldog M357 is attractively-priced for a “true” big bore air rifle combining a power level approaching 300 Ft/Lbs with magazine feed and a five-year warranty. In fact, when you look around, you’ll find that there are very few other airguns that can match these core specifications!

Many US buyers will be pleased to find that the Bulldog is designed and assembled in Velocity Outdoors’ Bloomfield NY headquarters. Most of the parts are sourced in the US too, although the use of a German Lothar Walther barrel is definitely an acceptable exception.

So, on a “bang for the buck” basis, the Bulldog has to be a very strong contender.

BUY FROM PYRAMYD AIR Benjamin Bulldog .357 Bullpup, Shrouded 0.357 Hawke Sidewinder 30 SF 6-24×56, 20x Half Mil IR Reticle, 30mm Tube

SPEED AND ACCURACY

For this HAM review, I tested the Benjamin Bulldog M357 with two types of Benjamin slugs.

Shooting at 25 Yards, the 145 Grain Benjamin Nosler Ballistic Tip eXTREME slugs gave an excellent 5-shot group of well under 1-Inch CTC.

The average Muzzle Energy across the five shots was 234.9 Ft/Lbs. The first shot gave 257.4 Ft/Lbs as it had the highest velocity.

By comparison, the 147 Grain Benjamin .357 Slugs gave a looser group of under 2-Inches CTC at 25 Yards. But it should be remembered that these slugs are half the price of the Nosler eXTREMEs!

Muzzle Energy was higher at an average of 249.4 Ft/Lbs. The first shot gave 269.2 Ft/Lbs.

As mentioned elsewhere, the Bulldog was never designed as a target rifle! So the group with the Nosler eXTREME slugs was definitely very acceptable hunting accuracy at 25 Yards.

COMPARISON WITH ORIGINAL BULLDOG

It’s interesting to compare the groups above with a group I shot back in 2019 using an original-model Bulldog and Nosler eXTREME slugs.

This group is slightly tighter than for the M357. But – given the shooter’s capabilities – I’d say they demonstrated very similar accuracy. In the case of the “old” Bulldog, the average Muzzle Energy was 182.1 ft/Lbs.

Comparing “5-shot average” Muzzle Energies, the M357 thus delivers a 29% increase in Muzzle Energy against the original version and with very similar accuracy. That’s definitely a very worthwhile improvement!

TRIGGER AND COCKING EFFORT

The Benjamin Bulldog M357 has a two-stage, non-adjustable trigger. The metal blade is comfortable in use and well-placed. It’s accompanied inside the trigger guard by a push-pull manual safety.

This safety design is very practical because it makes the shooter immediately aware if it’s engaged. It’s close to impossible to put your finger on the trigger!

Note that there is no externally-available methods for adjusting the Bulldog’s trigger. It is what it is…

However, sear release was quite predictable in the gun tested by HAM, with a fairly clean brake. All-in-all, this is a good hunting trigger, which is what it was designed to be.

The Bulldog is cocked using a rear-mounted side lever. This requires a fair – although not unreasonable – amount of effort to operate.

The location of the side lever requires that any Bulldog is removed from the shooting position. I found it most comfortable to rest the buttpad against my hip while actuating the side lever. This is understandable, however it does mean that a second shot is not available instantaneously, in spite of the magazine feed.

The side lever can be changed to operate from the left (other) side of the gun if required. However, this is a job that should be undertaken by a Crosman Repair Center if warranty is to be retained. For example, you can request such a service if ordering your Bulldog from Pyramyd Air.

COMPARISON TO MANUFACTURER’S CLAIMS

The manufacturer claims a peak Muzzle Energy of 300 Ft/Lbs for the Benjamin Bulldog M357.

True, the maximum Muzzle Energy developed during this HAM test was 269.2 Ft/Lbs using 147 Grain slugs.

However, knowing that the Muzzle Energy of PCP air rifles inevitably increases with projectile weight, it’s very likely that shooting a heavier slug will attain the claim. Consider that the .357 caliber ammo available now ranges up to 212 Grains…

CONSISTENCY

The Benjamin Bulldog M357 is not regulated. This is understandable in a big bore hunting air rifle. The result is that the gun loses power with every shot.

Fortunately this decline in power is very predictable at about 20 FPS drop per shot, as the following shootdown chart shows.

For HAM testing, I topped-up with HPA after every 5 shots – one magazine’s capacity. I’m guessing that most M357 owners will adopt a similar refilling strategy to avoid too many shots striking low.

The average pull weight of the trigger on the Benjamin Bulldog M357 tested by HAM was 4 Lbs 3 Lbs. The lightest pull recorded was 4 Lbs 0 Oz, the heaviest 4 Lbs 11 Oz. So, trigger pull weight consistency was pretty good.

NOISE LEVEL

As with other members of the family, the Benjamin Bulldog M357 includes the company’s baffle-less, triangular shroud. However be aware, it’s loud. Like “ear defenders required” loud!

No Bulldog is going to be “backyard-friendly”, but then it’s designed as a hunting gun, not an all-day, family plinker. The design expectation is obviously that you’ll be shooting it in wide open spaces.

Some owners will be pleased that the M357 is fitted with M18 threads at the muzzle. These are covered with a knurled cap when not in use, but provide the capability to add a big bore airgun-specific silencer where legal.

However, fitting a silencer will obviously increase the overall length of the gun – thus somewhat defeating the purpose of the compact, 36-Inch overall length, form factor that is a major part of the product’s attraction.

SIGHTS AND SCOPE

In preparation for our shooting tests, I mounted a Hawke Sidewinder 6-24 x 50 FFP scope using Hawke 30 mm High Tactical Match Rings.

With its’ 24x magnification and sharp optics, the Sidewinder gives plenty of “reach” for long-range shooting. The rings are definitely sturdy, too, with their six screw top fixing.

To gain the correct eyeline, I also fitted a 0.75-Inch high Leapers UTG Super Slim Picatinny Riser between the rings and gun. This raised the scope sufficiently to enable a comfortable sight picture to be achieved without straining my neck.

You’ll probably find that you need a riser, too…

We should also mention that the Bulldog’s almost-endless top Picatinny rail allows for enormous flexibility in scope mounting. There’s pretty-well no scope that can’t be mounted on this air rifle, however long it is. That’s a major benefit right there that should not be ignored!

SHOOTABILITY

Alt 36-Inches overall – the Benjamin Bulldog M357 is not long However it’s definitely a chunky airgun! With scope mounted, the all-up weight was 10 Lbs 14 Oz. That’s a fairly substantial weight, hence the overbore bipod mentioned elsewhere in this review.

That compact length makes the Bulldog surprisingly easy to shoot offhand. Yes it’s heavy, but it balances well and naturally, making it relatively easy to hold on target. Most big bore air rifles are longer – some much longer – than the M357 as longer barrels are an easy way to increase Muzzle energy with PCPs.

Loading the detachable 5-round magazine is easy enough – once you remember to keep a finger in place to stop the slugs from falling through! Unlike most magazines, you do not rotate the rotor all the way and then let it return as you load. You rotate a little, load one, then repeat as necessary.

This is a practical and easy method of operation, especially if you just want to “top up” the magazine after taking a couple of shots.

The magazine is loaded downwards into the breech. This is simple and easy to do. The only requirement is to be sure that the cocking lever is pulled all the way back as you do so.

At just $18.99, these .357 caliber Bulldog magazines are among the cheapest in the market. That makes it a good plan to buy several…

APPEARANCE AND FINISH

OK, I have to be honest. I really do not like the look of the Bulldog!

However, there’s an old English expression that “handsome is as handsome does”. Thinking of this and – maybe – the familiarity that happens over time, makes the looks less polarizing than when the gun was first introduced back in 2014.

I still do not think the Benjamin Bulldog M357 is a great-looking gun. But I can live with it!

The finish of the Benjamin Bulldog M357 tested by HAM was OK. The clamshell synthetic stock moldings are good enough. However the seam between them is pretty pronounced.

The sheet metal shroud of the test gun was fine on one side, but the finish was imperfect on the other. (It was easy enough to see, but tough to photograph).

Does that matter? Maybe not for a “working gun”, as there’s nothing to cause a problem. But for a price approaching $1K, my expectations would be higher…

BUYING AND OWNING

As with many Velocity Outdoor models, the Benjamin Bulldog M357 carries an outstanding 5-year return-to-factory warranty.

The gun ships with the company’s usual-style owner’s manual. This includes much information and many illustrations, but crams it all in at a minimum type size, making it difficult to read.

Also included is one magazine, a tube of Crosman Pellgun Oil together with a pack of “Bore Tips” for lubricating and barrel cleaning. Thanks Velocity Outdoor!

Another practical point for the bulldog is that the designers included sling swivel mounting points forward and rear. As the Benjamin Bulldog M357 is a heavy gun and you’ll be carrying it for hunting, a good sling and pair of swivels will be an excellent additional investment.

There’s good news about filling the Benjamin Bulldog M357 with High Pressure Air. First is that “only” 3,000 PSI is required for a full fill. This means that you will get more fills from a tank or shorter compressor run times than other comparable PCPs using a higher fill pressure.

Secondly, the Bulldog incorporates a “Foster standard” male quick disconnect for filling. In my testing and analysis for this HAM investigation, I found that Benjamin PCPs comply better with this standard than some other companies.

Another great feature is that – just ahead of the fill nipple and almost-hidden down in that slot – is a degassing screw. Operated with a 3/32-Inch Allen (hex) wrench, this allows all pressure to be released from the Bulldog, if required. It’s a great safety feature, even if you’re not likely to use it often.

However, the fill nipple area is covered by a “snap off” cover that I always find troublesome to use. In practice, I leave it off when shooting the Bulldog, which is not ideal. But it does stop me from loosing the item…

That’s it – the wrong way round! – in the photograph above.

One other consideration for the Bulldog M357 owner is the length of the slugs that you plan to shoot through the gun.

The M357’s magazine accepts the 145 Grain Nosler eXTREME as about a practical maximum length. The specification for these slugs is 18.71 mm long. Looking at the magazine, it’s pretty clear that somewhere around this length is the maximum that could be magazine-fed into the Benjamin Bulldog M357.

As an alternative, the M357 can be single-loaded by opening the bolt and pushing the slug into the barrel by hand. (Yes, it’s fiddly, but it can be done). In this case, the maximum slug length would be around 21 mm (0.8 Inches).

This means that, for example, 178 Grain NSA slugs should fit, but that Seneca 212 Grain ammo is never going to make it into the M357, even with hand loading. Some testing is going to be involved if you want to use ammo longer than around 19 mm (0.750-Inch) and be aware that it’s likely not to fit into the magazine.

BUY FROM PYRAMYD AIR Benjamin Bulldog .357 Bullpup, Shrouded 0.357 Hawke Sidewinder 30 SF 6-24×56, 20x Half Mil IR Reticle, 30mm Tube

This entire article including scoring, test targets etc is Copyright Hard Air Magazine and may NOT in part or in whole be reproduced in any electronic or printed medium without prior permission from the publisher.

Keeping clean water available to your pigs can be a real challenge at times! These clever omnivores, combining strength with an inquisitive nature and a love of mud, can upset a water trough before you can turn around. But in high summer, even a few hours without water can seriously compromise a pig’s well-being; and even in winter, our animals need water to be constantly available.

Outsmarting our pigs is an ongoing project, so it’s a good thing there are lots of ways to water a pig!

How Much Water Does a Pig Need?

How much water pigs need is the first consideration. Water consumption for sus scrofa can be highly variable, depending on weather, the size of the animal and what it is eating. (Pigs on dry feed drink more than pigs on a natural diet.)

While young pigs may consume only a few pints a day, a lactating sow (mama pig nursing babies) can require as much as 6 gallons! So whatever method you use for delivering water to your pigs should take these requirements into consideration.

Read more: Check out these tips for preparing your pigs for winter.

Let’s Talk Troughs

First, of course, is the basic water trough. The lowest-tech solution, this may be the obvious choice when you’re just starting out.

Troughs can work well, too, if we take the time to plan thoroughly.

A trough for pigs should be heavy enough—even when half-empty—that the animals can’t flip it. And while the sides have to be low enough so that even the smallest pig can get a drink, you also want them to be high enough to prevent animals climbing (or being pushed!) over the side.

If you elect to water from a trough, putting one or two cinder blocks in the bottom of the tank can provide footing for any animal that might fall in—at least long enough for you to help it out again.

An open trough also presents a challenge for animals kept on deep bedding. Tank sides need to be high enough to prevent litter from falling in and fouling the water.

Other Options (Cup Waterer, Pig Nipples)

Only slightly more complex than a trough are the cup waterer and pig nipple. These simple valves can be fitted to a garden hose and attached directly to the wall of a pig pen. Since there is no trough, there is no danger of drowned animals or fouled water.

And animal-activated stem valves mean that water is delivered on demand only. This keeps waste to a minimum.

Of course, a pig who wants a puddle in which to wallow can—and may!—cause deliberate spillage to make a wet spot. But, generally speaking, these simple valves help keep to a minimum .

Don’t have running water to the pig pen? Not a problem! Pig nipples and cup waterers can be easily plumbed into the side of a large plastic barrel. This, when filled with water, will be too heavy for your porkers to flip. And you can stabilize it in one corner of the pen for further security.

Hooked up to a rain barrel outside the barn, your pig barrel will even fill automatically! Or, if your pigs are on pasture, an extra-large livestock tank can be similarly fitted with a pig-operated waterer. The tank’s broad base will prevent overturning.

Read more: Do you have a farm water backup plan?

Watering in Winter Weather

Of course, water in the heat of summer is an hourly necessity, but winter water can be just as much of an issue! If you are keeping a pig during the cold months, you’ll have to find a way to keep his water from freezing.

First, there’s nothing to prevent you from simply breaking ice in your stock tank, if that’s where the pig gets water. We do it ourselves and know others that do the same.

Stock Tank Deicer

Dropping in an electric stock tank deicer may be all that you need to keep water warm enough that it will not freeze. But if you are using a metal pig nipple, this extension may be the first part of your system to ice up.

In only moderately cold weather, inserting a copper wire or six-penny nail into the back of the stem valve will sometimes conduct enough heat from the main tank to prevent the nipple freezing. Make sure, though, that there is no possible way for the pigs to reach the heater—or the heater cord! Pigs will chew on anything, so take precautions so that you don’t get a shocked pig or an electrical fire.

Running Water Is Slower to Freeze

Other solutions may be even simpler. Running water is slow to freeze, which is why in near-freezing weather you may see an outdoor tap left open just a trickle. Why not direct this tiny flow into the pig tank? Even mere drips of water falling in a tank will disturb the surface enough to prevent freezing if temperatures are not too low.

Or you could do something as simple as filling the tank daily with a bucket from the house.

Let Them Eat Snow

Is there snow on the ground? Pigs are smart! Let them eat snow for their hydration needs, as long as clean snow is available in their pasture or paddock. Save yourself days or weeks of breaking ice or hauling water.

And there’s always butchering time to put an end to our pig-watering chores—until we get another pig!

Whitetail hunters and land managers have been playing around with the idea of food plots for nearly 40 years now. And admittedly, a lot of folks have become quite proficient at planting food plot crops that rival the best farm crops out there.

Even vegetable gardeners would have to be envious at the results seen by those deer hunters who are merely trying to provide the best food plot for the deer on their land.

This year, I’m back at it in our “Fallow to Fabulous” experiment. Last year’s success included two small food plot that were grown on land that hadn’t been farmed in over 15 years. I started out by killing (or attempting to kill) all of the weeds. Wasn’t real successful at that. But I was successful in getting those two plots to grow brassicas quite nicely. Yeah, I know that’s not a major accomplishment, because growing brassicas is fairly easy, even in sandy soils like we have here in central Wisconsin.

In any event, this year I’m back at it. In fact, this week, I (with all credit to my friends who have equipment) worked the plots and again got some brassica seed planted. I went back with the proven blend of Antler King Honey Hole. Honey Hole is a mixture of five unique varieties of brassicas, which include three varieties of rape, and two varieties of turnips. This blend provides an ideal plot for the fall and winter. After the first frost the plants go from bitter to sweet and the deer love them. In fact, we darn-near filled all of our tags during the early archery season while hunting over these plots. It was simply amazing to see deer flock to these plots after not having any real source of supplemental food for years. I know for a fact that it drew deer to our hunting property from a lot of the neighboring properties.

The Next Big Thing in Food Plots?

Both plots are relatively small (less than 1/4 acre each), and I used the same amount of Honey Hole when seeding the plots this week. However, I couldn’t help but be intrigued by a “newer” product that Antler King has been offering: Kale.

Yes, kale. That nasty leafy green they put on your plate when you order a sandwich at the restaurant. Yeah, yeah, I know some folks love kale, especially when it’s cooked with mashed potatoes, but I’ve alway found it kind of gross, to be honest. Bitter tasting (to me, anyway), and even though I know it has a ton of good nutrients in it, I’ve always shied away from including it in my salads.

Well, I’m not a deer, and I’m certainly not waiting around until late fall for it to “sweeten up.” Apparently, that’s exactly what kale does … because it IS another form of brassica!

I simply took 1/2 pound of the seed (way more than enough) and cut it with the Honey Hole seed I was planting. I don’t know of anyone who personally has planted a food plot of just kale, so I didn’t want to roll the dice on being all-in just in case the deer didn’t take to it right away. But after reading all of the information about this specific strain, I’m really intrigued as to how these plots will turn out. And we just received a good dose of rain, so this stuff should germinate before too long.

More About Kale Food Plots

Here’s a little more info on the seed itself from Antler King:

•Kale is a member of the brassica family and is extremely cold tolerant, easy to establish and provides a fantastic cool-season food source.

•Kale is packed with protein (20-30%) and vitamins and can produce up to 10 tons of forage per acre.

•Kale will grow best in cooler climates as the plant’s leaves will sweeten as the temps get colder.

•Like other brassicas, a frost will create a molecular change and further sweeten the leaves and increase attraction.

•Kale is best planted from July through October and works as a great fall and winter forage crop in the Southern U.S. and a summer, fall and winter forage crop in the North, Northeast, and Midwest.

•Kale prefers lighter soils; sandy, sandy loam or light clay and will perform best in a pH ranging from 5.5-7.0.

Kale Conclusion

So … I will keep my fingers crossed that these brassica plots flourish and the kale is something that helps improve them even more than last year. I will also report back with photos of the progress; and trail-camera photos and videos of any visitors we might get over the next several weeks.

Meat sticks, snack sticks, beef sticks, slim jims, whatever you want to call them, these on-the-go meat snacks are a staple in sausage making. A cousin of jerky, this semi-dry sausage is thinner in diameter and can be made from pork, beef, venison or other combinations of wild game.

Meat sticks are ground then stuffed in either collagen or natural casings. They can be seasoned with virtually any profile and enhanced with add-ins like high-temp cheese, encapsulated citric acid or cultures. No matter how you flavor your meat sticks, they’re the perfect hand-held meat snack and are a great way to utilize your venison or leftover trimmings.

Tools of the Trade

• Meat Grinder with 3/8” and 3/16” plates
• Meat Mixer or Your Hands
• Meat Lug or Large Food-Safe Container
• Stuffer (13 or 16mm horn)
• Smokehouse

Meat (and Fat) Instructions for Meat Sticks

For this venison snack stick recipe, making sure you have the right meat-to-fat ratio is important. For the best meat sticks, you’ll want to shoot for a range of 15-25% fat and 85-75% lean for the finished product. Any leaner, and you risk a dry and crumbly texture in your snack sticks. This is especially important when making deer sticks. When working with venison, we recommend adding about 50% venison and 50% pork trim with 50% fat content into your snack sticks. Pork trim, or the trimmings from the shoulder or butt, are typically available at your local butcher shop (make sure to call ahead!). If you want to be really precise, you can separate the visible fat from the meat and weigh them out separately to get the exact ratios right for your venison sticks.

Grinding & Mixing for Snack Sticks

Meat sticks don’t require a very fine grind, as you’ll want to retain some visual separation of fat and meat in your final beef sticks. To get the right snack stick texture, we recommend grinding twice; the first pass through a 3/8“ plate then twice through a 3/16” plate.

Pro tip: Remember to always keep your sausage stick’s meat cold! We recommend popping your meat block back into the cooler between grinds to prevent smearing.

Once each of your proteins has been ground, you can begin mixing either by hand or by using a meat mixer. We recommend doing it by hand for batches less than 25 lbs as you don’t want to break the any encapsulated citric acid or high-temp cheese you’re adding into your snack sticks.

Beef Sticks Seasoning & Additives

Begin by adding your seasoning to your meat sticks. Whether you’re making pork, venison, beef sticks, we recommend our No. 765 Honey BBQ Snack Stick Seasoning or No 769 Willie’s Seasoning. Both have a great depth of flavor that are equally good on their own or mixed with other additives like high-temp cheese. Other favorite meat stick seasonings are:

• No. 769 Honey Sriracha Seasoning: Sweet with just the right amount of heat. Comes with Speed Cure. Perfect for beef sticks.
• No 491 Seven Pepper Seasoning: Feel the burn! This blend is just like the name implies with chili, jalapeno, chipotle, habanero and red peppers. Comes with Speed Cure. Amazing for venison sticks.
• No. 798 Pepperoni Stick Seasoning: The delicious taste of pepperoni in a snack form. Comes with Maple Cure. Best for pork sticks.

If your seasoning doesn’t have any larger pieces, you can season after the first grind and have the grinder do some of the distribution for you.

All of our meat stick seasonings come complete with cure for up to 25 lbs. of meat. Nitrites help preserve the red in the meat in the absence of oxygen and also kill bacteria that can result in food-borne illnesses. Add the appropriate amount of cure for your meat batch to your water and stir to combine.

Once the seasonings and cure have been well incorporated into your meat stick mix, this is the time to add in any other flavorings. We like to add in high-temp cheddar cheese and encapsulated citric acid. Encapsulated citric acid gives a mouthwatering tang to your finished sausage sticks and because it’s coated, won’t break down the texture of the meat.

For meat snack sticks, you’ll want to get a good amount of protein extraction before stuffing. The end results should be sticky and pasty, with seasonings well incorporated throughout. For proper jerky stick flavor and color development, refrigerate your meat mixture overnight or for several hours before stuffing.

Shop Sausage Seasoning

Meat Sticks Casings

Meat sticks have a smaller diameter and are typically made with either natural sheep casings or small collagen casings. We prefer the irresistible “snap” that comes from natural sheep casings, but collagen casings will offer better uniformity and rich mahogany color for your snack sticks. For the best beef sticks, we recommend:

• 20-22 mm Natural Sheep Casings (Home Pack)

• 20-22 mm Natural Sheep Casings (Preflushed)

• 21 mm Mahogany Processed Collage Casings

• 21 mm Clear Processed Collagen Casings

Shop Sausage Casings

Meat Sticks Processing

One of the trickiest parts of making meat sticks is the processing or smoking process. If the sausages heat too quickly, the fat has the potential of melting out of the beef stick and the encapsulated acid can break down. The key is to gradually increase the temperature to ensure there’s no fat or additive loss inside the snack sticks.

The type of combustible you will use for smoking also has an impact on the taste and smoking process of your meat sticks. It is best to do some research and figure out which material you should use to obtain the best beef sticks.

To make the best smoked snack sticks, we recommend using a high quality electric smokehouse, like the Pro Smoker PK-100, which uses sawdust as smoke fuel. Always refer to your manufacturers instructions for smoking times and temperatures, but as a general rule, our recommend processing schedule is:

• Set smokehouse to 120° F. Hung sausage sticks and set in the smokehouse to dry for ½ hour (no smoke)
• Increase temperature to 130° F and smoke for 1 hour (dampers closed 75%)
• Increase temperature to 150° F and smoke for 1 hour
• Increase temperature to 170° F and remove smoke
• Cook until internal temperature of the snack stick reaches 155° F degrees

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Cooling

There are two ways to cool down sausages and snack sticks after the smoking process: air drying or ice bath. If you choose to air dry, let the meat sticks rest at room temperature for about ½ hour to bring the internal temperature of the snack sticks down to 110 degrees before placing them in the fridge to cool completely. The ice bath method goes faster, but both processes with get the casings to firm up and create the nice snap texture when you bite into your beef sticks.

Once in the fridge, wait until the snack sticks reach an internal temperature of 39 degrees before vacuum packing or storing. If properly sealed and packaged, snack sticks can last in the freezer for several months or in the refrigerator for 2-3 weeks.

Enjoy Your Homemade Beef Sticks!

You now have succeeded in making your own homemade meat sticks! Whether you chose to follow it as a venison or beef sticks recipe, we are sure you will feel proud every time you go for a quick meat snack!

Don’t hesitate to check out all our sausage recipes and meat & sausage tips!

For printable instructions, see our recipe for Honey BBQ Venison Snack Sticks.

By reader request, we’re putting two short-action gems up against one another, with a time-proven veteran with 70-plus years of hunting, military and target experience, and a relative newcomer that is quickly gaining favor in the hunting fields and target range. And despite the differences in bore diameter, many hunters are flocking to the smaller bullet diameter; the question is whether or not that change is warranted. Let’s compare the differences between Hornady’s 6.5 PRC and the classic .308 Winchester.

As the younger of the pair—having been released at the 2018 SHOT Show—the 6.5 PRC (Precision Rifle Cartridge) is often referred to as the big brother of the 6.5 Creedmoor. Based on the .375 Ruger, shortened to fit in a short-action magazine, the 6.5 PRC is a rimless cartridge, using its 30-degree shoulder for excellent headspacing and chamber concentricity. The case features the .532-inch-diameter case head common to the Holland & Holland family of cartridges, and measures 2.030 inches in length, with a cartridge maximum length of 2.955 inches. This leaves ample room outside the case mouth for those bullets which possess the high Ballistic Coefficient values, and make the best choices for shooting in high winds or at long distances. Like the Creedmoor, the vast majority of projectiles will top out at somewhere between 140 and 147 grains, with few exceptions.

The 6.5 PRC does offer a respectable velocity advantage over the Creedmoor—about 250-260 fps, putting it on par with the 6.5 Weatherby RPM, and ahead of factory ammo for the 6.5-284 Norma. Though it is short and squat—and visually reminiscent of the Winchester Short Magnum cartridges—I’ve found the 6.5 PRC feeds very well in any rifle with a decently designed feed ramp. At 2960 fps with a 143-grain Hornady ELD-X, the 6.5 PRC will throw those bullets in a very similar manner to the .300 Winchester Magnum with a good 180-grain bullet; when zeroed at 200 yards, it’ll print 6.4 inches low at 300 yards, 18.2 inches low at 400 yards, and 36.2 inches low at 500 yards (where it still retains over 1,600 ft.-lbs. of energy). In the recoil department, the 6.5 PRC does have a higher recoil level than does the 6.5 Creedmoor, but I’ve found it to be completely manageable.

The .308 Winchester came to light in the sporting world before it got its marching orders in the U.S. Army, being released in 1952. It is the result of the 1940s effort to reduce the size and weight of the cartridge, in order to maximize the soldier’s potential. Starting with the .300 Savage cartridge, the end result was what the military designated the T-65. Sharing the same case head dimension as the .30-06 Springfield (derived from the Mauser cartridges), the .308 Winchester effectively reproduced the Springfield’s performance – at least from a military perspective. The sporting world would cock an eyebrow, however, and that debate between the .308 and .30-06 rages on 70 years later. Like its forefathers, the 308 Winchester is rimless, with a .473”-diameter case head, and a 20-degree shoulder for headspacing. The case length is 2.015 inches, with a cartridge overall length of 2.810 inches; the resultant cartridge is one of the first to earn the moniker of “inherently accurate.”

With the 1:12-inch twist rate of the early sporting rifles, the .308 Winchester was limited to 200-grain bullets, though many were eventually offered with the faster 1:10-inch twist. As bullet technology improved, the need for 220-grain round nose definitely faded, but the argument is still raised that the Springfield handles heavy bullets better than does the .308 Winchester. I personally feel that bullets weighing between 150 and 180 grains make the best choice for big-game hunting, as with modern designs they are rugged enough to reach the vitals on game as large as moose and elk, yet don’t take up that precious real estate in the case. Many hunters feel the 165-grain bullets are the optimum balance of bullet weight and velocity in the .308 Winchester, and there is merit to that theory. Traveling at 2700 fps, the trajectory of the .308 Winchester isn’t as flat as the .300 Magnums, nor even the 6.5 PRC, but still makes a good choice for an all-around hunting rifle. With a common softpoint bullet, and a 200-yard zero, the 308 will print 8½ inches low at 300 yards, 25 inches low at 400 yards and 50 inches low at 500 yards, retaining over 1,100 ft.-lbs. of energy at the latter distance. And while these numbers may seem anemic when compared to some of the modern cartridge designs, remember that the .308 Winchester was once the undisputed darling of the long-range target crowd.

Grab a box of premium 180-grain ammunition for the .308 Winchester and you’ve got moose and elk medicine, as well as making a great choice for black bear anywhere. If you like to use your big-game rifle for the occasional coyote, the 125-grain bullets can be very effective, if a bit rough on the pelts.

With all this is mind, which makes the better choice for the hunter? A couple of factors should help dictate your choice of purchase: first, the choice of species to be pursued, and second, the ranges at which you hunt and your style of hunting. With the flexibility of bullet weight that .30-caliber has to offer, the .308 Winchester is, was, and always shall be a very versatile cartridge. At the most common hunting ranges, its trajectory and energy levels don’t pose an issue, and I feel that for the larger species the .308 Winchester offers an obvious advantage over and of the 6.5mms. Should you want your hunting cartridge to pull double duty as a competition target cartridge, especially at long ranges, the 6.5 PRC is a fine choice. Many feel that the 140- to 147-grain bullets are plenty of bullet weight for bears, elk and moose, though the author feels that a larger bore diameter and additional bullet weight will be greatly appreciated for those species. As a deer/sheep/antelope cartridge, the 6.5 PRC is a wonderful choice, and it is in that species range where I feel the cartridge absolutely shines.

Factory ammunition for the .308 Winchester is wonderfully plentiful, with all major manufacturers offering good choices. The 6.5 PRC has assuredly caught on, with at least one load offered by Winchester, Browning, Federal, Nosler, Norma and Barnes, as well as the Hornady offerings. To pick one over the other, I’m going to fall back on my inherent desire for flexibility, and that means I’ll have to choose the .308 Winchester for the wider variety of bullet weight, even if I’m giving up the hunting performance outside of 500 yards. There is a reason that the .30-caliber cartridges remain such popular choices in the hunting arena, and while the 6.5mms are certainly impressive far downrange, the majority of hunting certainly occurs inside of 400 yards.

Looking for previous installments of our “Head to Head” series? Click here.

Since its inception in 1952, the .308 Win. has increasingly pilfered proponents of traditional deer hunting cartridges, such as the .270 Win. and .30-06 Springfield, and, thanks to .308 Win.-chambered “tactical” bolt-actions and modern sporting rifles (MSRs), next-generation hunters have flocked to the round, too. Due to its popularity, there’s now an abundance of ammunition (and component bullets) from which to choose for pursuing deer. Below are some of my personal favorites, and by selecting only seven, many good ones have been omitted. I also eschewed perennial favorites, such as the Core-Lokt, Power-Point and Ballistic Tip and instead opted for “different” options. Hopefully, you’ll find something new to try on your next deer hunt.

Barnes 130-grain TSX BTAmong the “gold-standard” combinations for deer hunting is the .270 Win. loaded with a quality 130-grain bullet. When loaded with the Barnes 130-grain Triple-Shock X-Bullet Boat Tail (TSX BT), you can best the downrange performance of Jack O’Connor’s baby, and with less perceived recoil to boot. With top velocities approaching 3,300 fps, the all-copper TSX BT shoots extremely flat—perfect for wide-open areas—and hits hard. Thanks to its monolithic construction, high weight retention is assured for deep penetration. Grooves in the bullet’s shank help reduce friction (and thus pressure), aid accuracy, and enable crimping. The projectile’s sole weakness is its ballistic coefficient, which is an atrocious .340; however, this can be somewhat overcome by high muzzle velocities. The Barnes 130-grain TSX BT is a handloading-only proposition right now.

Hornady 150-grain SSTThe Hornady .30 caliber, 150-grain Super Shock Tip (SST) is aptly named—fairly-hit deer expire extremely rapidly. I know this firsthand because I’ve employed it more frequently than all others on this list. Upon impact, the sharp, red polymer tip, which, when combined with a boattail base (and streamlined shape) results in a .415 BC, is forced rearward, initiating expansion. To prevent jacket-core separation during expansion—thereby reducing penetration—the jacket is mechanically locked to the 3-percent-antimony-lead core via the raised InterLock ring. Despite their cup-and-core design, only once have I recovered a 150-grain SST, and it was when fired from a .300 Wby. Mag. Beyond phenomenal terminal performance, SSTs are superbly accurate, too. They often rival match-grade bullets. Outside of handloading, 150-grain SST .308 Win. ammunition is offered by Hornady in its Custom and Superformance lines, and the projectile is loaded in Fiocchi Extrema and Black Hills Gold, too.

Sierra 150-grain GameKing SBTThere’s nothing flashy about Sierra’s .30 caliber, 150-grain GameKing Spitzer Boat Tail (SBT), and yet—unsurprisingly—the simple, cup-and-core-style bullet provides devastating terminal ballistics to down deer fast. Recovery distances of even the largest whitetails and mule deer are generally short (if they run at all), and the spent bullet will typically be nestled against the offside hide. It probably won’t be picture perfect—lacking a mechanical lock, jacket-core separation is a real possibility. This’ll matter not at all as you’re admiring your trophy; it did its job well. It always does. Perhaps the projectile’s only weakness is its modest BC of .380. That being said, since 150-grain GameKing SBTs are only about 30 cents each, you’ll be able to practice all year without “breaking the bank,” learning how to dial in elevation for that all-important shot. Or, just take your shot from a realistic range. At this point, these Sierra bullets are available for handloading and are also factory loaded by HSM in its GameKing line.

Hornady 150-grain GMXHunters who choose (or are required) to go leadless will find a great option in Hornady’s .30 caliber, 150-grain Gilding Metal eXpanding (GMX) bullet. Manufactured from copper alloy, the projectile has a polymer tip, boattail base, two relief grooves to reduce friction (and thus pressure), and fouling and aid accuracy. Expansion runs 1.5X the projectile’s pre-expansion diameter. Weight retention is upward of 95 percent, and penetration is extremely deep. It’s doubtful you’ll recover one from a broadside shot on a deer. In addition to an improved blood trail (i.e. exit hole), deep penetration offered by the GMX provides insurance for less-than-ideal shot placement. The .30 caliber, 150-grain GMX has a BC mimicking that of the like-weight SST. Outside of the biggest bears, this bullet will also work well for all North American species. It’s loaded by Hornady Superformance and Black Hills Gold.

Swift 150-grain Scirocco/Scirocco IIDeer hunters looking for a projectile that will expand reliably (upward of 2.5X) at long range, but hold up during a violent, close-range impact will find it in the Swift Scirocco/Scirocco II. Enabling said performance is a lead core that’s bonded to a tapered, extra-thick, copper jacket. In addition to aiding expansion, the polymer tip—when teamed with the secant ogive and 15 degree boattail base—create a streamlined bullet that sheds velocity slower than many of the other bullets in this list. The .30 caliber, 150-grain Scirocco II has a BC of .430. Like Hornady’s GMX, don’t expect to recover many Scirocco bullets from deer-size game, and it can be employed on all North American non-dangerous animals, too. That being said, if elk is on the menu, you might consider moving up to the 165-grain variant. Accuracy is often very good, though experimentation with seating depth will be necessary for best performance. As for the 150-grain version, outside of handloading, it’s only found in Swift High Grade Hunting Ammunition.

Nosler 165-grain PartitionThe grandfather of “premium” big-game bullets, Nosler’s Partition—the 165-grain variant in particular—is a top choice for hunting deer with the .308 Win.—especially if there’s an opportunity for black bear or elk, or if you’re a one-gun hunter. Featuring dual, lead-alloy cores separated by a cross member (or “partition”), the front core is washed away during expansion and serves to further enhance trauma, all while the rear portion drives deep. So deep, in fact, that seldom will you find one in anything but the largest game animals, such as elk. Like the GMX and Scirocco, the Partition provides a measure of insurance in case of a less-than-perfect shot or steep angle. Nosler’s 165-grain Partition is factory loaded in .308 Win. ammunition (Custom and Trophy Grade).

Norma 165-grain OryxFactory loaded by Norma USA (American PH), the flat-base, semi-spitzer, 165-grain Oryx features a heavily tapered, gilding metal jacket that is bonded to the lead core. This results in rapid expansion and high weight retention—bullets exhibiting ninety-percent-plus weight retention are commonplace. Given its blunter profile, this isn’t a bullet for shooting long range, but at all practical distances, it will hit hard and penetrate deep no matter what.

Only days before this piece was written I used the 165-grain Oryx to take a medium-size Virginia buck for the freezer. Catching it feeding in a hayfield undisturbed at 40 yards, the bullet entered mid-way up the left shoulder and exited around the last rib on the opposite side. The buck traveled about 60 yards before expiring. A post-mortem inspection revealed tremendous trauma—little wonder for its rapid demise. Given the performance and strength of this bullet, it would make a good one-load option for the hunter who hunts deer but also pursues bigger, tougher species, such as elk, or is going on safari.

There’s a plethora of bullets that are suitable for deer with the .308 Win. Hopefully this article will open your eyes to a few that you might not have previously considered.

To most people, spring fever means days on the water, family cookouts in the backyard, and a long-awaited wardrobe transition. For turkey hunters, however, the mainstream intrigue is only secondary to the nonstop chaos of breeding competition among gobblers, and all of the incredible hunting opportunities the season brings. The same hunters get restless once they have a taste of the action, itching all year long to get back into the budding woods with a shotgun and a repertoire of calls and strategies they’ve been sitting on since last season. And, while good game calls and effective hunting blinds are necessities, nothing throws an exclamation point on a turkey hunting approach better than some well-placed decoys. With such a large market for decoys, however, it can be difficult to know which ones are worth spending your money on.

Sometimes a big Tom just needs a little extra motivation to con him into archery or shotgun range, so we did the research to find the best turkey decoys on the market today.

Avian-X HDR Jake and Hen Turkey Decoy Combo

This combo is perfect for areas full of especially aggressive birds, as they offer a wildly lifelike appearance that’s sure to bring big Toms in on a string. Each decoy is blow-molded and comes with two interchangeable heads to change up your presentation on the fly. And to make things more convenient in the field, they come with a carry bag for easy transport to the field, as well as carbon ground stakes for a quick-and-easy setup.

MOJO Outdoors Tail Chaser Max

For the hunters who like the run-and-gun approach, this is a hard option to beat. This turkey fan decoy comes with a printed photo-realistic Tom in a full strut position, which folds up for portability. It also features legs that help give your gun a steady rest for the shot, which will probably come in handy after being on the move just to get into position. And, if you want a little more realism, you could always attach a real turkey fan, too. At $40, this is a bargain.

Lucky Duck Lucky HD Collapsible

This is a solid, versatile option for only $70. If you’re lucky, you might even find it on sale for less. Made of durable plastic and a folding metal stake, this strutter turkey decoy folds up to make it easier to transport. Similar to the last option, this fan is also removable if you prefer having a real one, which might give you a slight edge to draw in that old, aggressive gobbler.

Dave Smith Decoys Jake Turkey Decoy

The Dave Smith brand has a great reputation for turkey decoys of exceptional quality, but they do come at price. This Jake decoy is made of a resin and has over 70-perfect five-star ratings on the Cabela’s website. The company claims its decoys can stand up to being shot multiple times without showing damage. Each includes a ground stake and a handy carry bag for transportation, and features exceptional attention to detail.

Primos Gobbstopper Turkey Decoy Combo

Anything from Primos typically lives up to the hype these days, and these soft-sided decoys are no different. Each decoy included in this combo folds up quickly with stakes and a carry bag, making them great for when you need to wander far off the beaten path for that prime spot. For $70, you get a Jake and a hen that are sure to enrage any big gobbler that sees them. Boasting a high rating on the Cabela’s website from buyers, this is a great option for shopping on a budget.

Dakota Decoy X-Treme Feeding Hen

If you want a hard plastic decoy that is designed to last many seasons, this feeder hen is a solid choice. This is perfect for a more casual setup sure to ease the nerves of hesitant birds. Built of EVA plastic, this decoy is airbrushed with fine details that will consistently draw in big birds. Additionally, the metal stake stores inside the body when not in use.

Montana Decoy Fanatic

Another fan decoy built for stalking, this option offers great portability, as well as a see-through mesh window so you never have to break the illusion of another bird. This setup allows you to sneak up on those birds that are wary of your stationary decoys. For a mere $44, you can’t go wrong.

Flextone Thunder Chick Hen Decoy

Besides having an awesome name, this is a solid decoy at a price that’ll fit almost any hunter’s budget. Blow-molded and built of a one-piece construction, this decoy boasts both durability and simplicity. Flextone also includes a carbon-fiber stake, and offers both a feeding and an upright option, which gives you flexibility in your setup. Ideally, you can buy more than one and set up a variety of different looks to coax cautious birds.

Davey Smith Mating Motion Pair

If the big birds are too wary of your strutter decoys, you may need something more to draw them in. Few decoy setups spice things up more than a controllable mating pair. A cord allows you to manipulate gobblers with this Jake-and-hen combo, which presents the potential to absolutely enrage territorial gobblers that ignore every other kind of setup. Like any other Davey Smith decoy, this combo isn’t cheap, but users swear by its effectiveness. It also comes with ground stakes and a carry bag.

Hunter’s Specialties H.S. Strut Hen and Jake Combo

These two foldable, hollow-body decoys are sure have the big gobblers running, and at an affordable price. These decoys feature flake-resistant paint that should last season after season. Both are bright and colorful, guaranteeing at least a look from any curious gobbler nearby. For the hunter on a budget, you get two solid decoys for $70.

Avian-X Strutter

For one of the best Tom turkey decoys on the market, it’s hard to go wrong with the highly-rated Avian-X. This strutting decoy comes with a silk tail standard, but includes the ability to add real feathers. Many hunters consider this the gold standard for strutting gobbler decoys, as so many have tagged out using it.

Redhead Reality Series Crazy Jake

Nothing will fill a dominant Tom with rage more than a young Jake strutting in his territory. This one is smaller than other strutting decoys, which should prove less intimidating for birds that are shy of standard-sized decoys. You can also adjust the look by mounting a real tail fan or by trimming the beard. For $50, this is a bargain.

For more outdoor content from Travis Smola, be sure to follow him on Twitter and check out his Geocaching and Outdoors with Travis YouTube channels.

READ MORE: HIGHLIGHTS FROM OUR WEST TEXAS TURKEY HUNT