Hunters who don’t pay attention to thermals likely won’t experience as much success, especially when bowhunting. Image by Bill Konway

After a tedious climb, I crested the ridgetop as a bugle rang out 250 yards below me. Carefully, I negotiated down the slope, scanning for a large tan shape amidst the dense timber as I descended. Eventually, I put my eyes on a cow elk. Glassing a little bit more, I soon turned up a second cow. Finally, the bull appeared in my binoculars. He was bedded down, bugling occasionally. At about 100 yards away, I didn’t dare take another step because one of the cows was facing me. I nocked an arrow and held tight, waiting for the elk to stand and hopefully wander closer.

But it wasn’t meant to be. Suddenly, I felt air pull downward, and a commotion ensued as the bull and his cows instantly rumbled downhill. I’d been busted. Although the wind had been steady higher up the ridge where I’d originally heard the first bugle, the morning shadows shifted, instigating a swirl that betrayed me, pulling my scent straight downhill to the bedded elk. Welcome to the world of thermals.

Elk live longer lives thanks to strong thermals. Image by John Hafner

WHAT ARE THERMALS?

From my point of view and experience with thermals while hunting, I describe them like this: Thermals are air currents that rise as the earth warms after sunrise and drop as it cools after sunset and through to the early morning hours. However, I was interested in a more scientific explanation, so I spoke with friend and meteorologist Mike Breunling of central Wisconsin.

“Thermals are small-scale phenomena that meteorologists classify as localized effects,” he said. “They’re small currents of heated air produced above a surface that is warmer and more buoyant than its immediate surroundings. There’s no magic to thermals. It’s just a situation in which a given locale is favorable for differential heating — one part of the earth’s surface is heated more than the immediate surrounding areas, which puts a circulation in motion.”

Thermals can happen anywhere and anytime where the earth’s surface is heated in a very small area more than surrounding areas.

“The surface in this context could be a forest or flat ground on the prairie,” Breunling said. “It could be rock outcroppings in a more topographically diverse region. The heat essentially sets the air into motion. When the air is heated, it tends to rise. As well, other atmospheric factors can determine to what extent the air will rise when it’s heated.

“Cold air will start to flow off from where the thermal originated and pool toward the low-lying areas as surfaces of the earth cool back down. The intensity and amount of cool air is based on how long the thermal was in existence in that given locale. Other atmospheric conditions also play a role in this. For example, if there isn’t much ambient wind, the thermal circulation is going to rule the day. But, if there is a greater prevailing wind, it can tend to mitigate the thermal’s intensity and thereby diminish some of the localized cooling effects that the thermal might produce.”

Knowing this, you can anticipate that elevations higher than the thermal will be warmer and elevations lower than the thermal will be cooler. This can help you make some educated hunting plans, which we’ll discuss next.

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When possible, whitetails almost always use thermals to their benefit. Image by Russell Graves

THERMALS AND HUNTING PLANS

Although Breunling isn’t a hunter, his long meteorology career positions him to talk about how hunters might become more effective in the presence of thermals.

“Over time, the more one hunts in a specific environment — perhaps wooded, hilly or even mountainous terrain, for example — the better they will come to understand how thermals work in very specific locations,” he said. “You’ll begin to understand thermal circulations for each location and can make plans accordingly. There are all types of varying situations, so when you get to know the topography and surroundings, then it’s a matter of whether or not the overall atmospheric conditions are favorable to allow thermals to form and to what degree of intensity.”

You can typically count on some basics. If you’re hunting whitetails in a draw that connects a valley to a ridge top during late afternoon, you can anticipate thermals to cause an air circulation that floods down the draw toward the valley as the sun sets, taking your scent with it. When you’re at the top of a ridge at noon on a sunny day and want to approach a bugling bull elk on a bench below, the thermals will typically draw your scent uphill away from the elk — the exception being if a prevailing wind is overriding or mitigating the thermals.

One of the most effective ways to hunt elk or mule deer in mountainous topography is to approach along a sidehill at the same elevation as the animal. Whether the thermals are falling or rising, you should be in a safe zone approaching from the sidehill in most cases.

It’s risky to approach an animal on foot when the thermals are switching from falling to rising at sunrise or from rising to falling around sunset. If you use a wind checker at this time, you’ll notice the powder often swirls erratically. There are many inconsistencies as the shift occurs, and I’ve been busted by elk numerous times in these instances. You’re better off waiting for the thermals to fully stabilize before approaching.

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Deer, elk, and other big game animals are difficult to tag, especially if the thermals are in their favor. Image by Bill Konway

PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER

Back up the mountain, I was chasing a herd bull that was being badgered by multiple satellite bulls. It was a magical morning when they just didn’t stop bugling. Managing the thermals as I shadowed the herd was difficult, but I monitored them closely with my wind checker.

Finally, at about noon, I slipped into a situation I knew would work. A bull was bugling at roughly my same level, and another bull bugled beneath me about 100 yards away. I worked in between the two bulls, knowing the heated landscape would keep the thermal circulation going uphill. I no more than nocked an arrow when the bull below me appeared and was walking directly at me.

I drew back when he was 50 yards out, and soon after, when he paused to assess the bowhunter standing 14 yards away, I shot him perfectly through the front of the chest. He ran a little more than 100 yards before going down. I’d waited for the thermals to be consistent and for the right opportunity to strike, and the good Lord blessed my plans.

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When you understand thermals, it will be much easier to get within bow range of big game. Image by Bill Konway

CONCLUSION

If you haven’t paid much attention to thermals or just haven’t quite figured them out, you might be limiting your success and giving the animals you hunt an edge. For the most part, thermals can be predictable at certain times of day, especially given clear, sunny conditions, and a lack of wind. Of course, there are also times when they’re unpredictable, such as cloudy days or right at sunrise or sunset. But, the more you hunt in a given location, the more you’ll understand how they work in that spot and how to hunt more effectively around them.

Now, let’s get to the question at hand: do eagles eat cats?

The short answer is yes, they can. However, it’s not a common occurrence.

Eagles are fascinating creatures, known for their majestic flight and sharp talons.

But have you ever wondered what they eat?

Read Aslo: Do Alligators Eat Ducks?

Eagles and Cats

They are opportunistic hunters and will go after any prey that presents itself as an easy target.

Cats, especially outdoor cats, can be vulnerable to eagle attacks if they are outside and unattended.

This is more likely to happen in areas where eagles are abundant and there is a shortage of other prey.

Real-Life Examples

There have been a few documented cases of eagles attacking and eating cats.

In 2015, a bald eagle was captured on camera carrying off a small domestic cat in British Columbia, Canada.

Similarly, in 2019, a golden eagle was spotted carrying a dead cat in its talons in Scotland. These incidents are rare, but they do happen.

How to Protect Your Cat

If you’re a cat owner, you may be wondering what you can do to protect your furry friend from eagle attacks.

The best thing you can do is keep your cat indoors.

Not only will this protect them from potential eagle attacks, but it will also keep them safe from other outdoor dangers like cars and other animals.

If you must let your cat outside, make sure you supervise them and don’t leave them outside for long periods of time.

You can also invest in a cat enclosure that will allow your cat to enjoy the outdoors while still being protected from predators.

5 Ways to Protect Your Cats from Eagles:

1. Keep Your Cat Indoors

One of the most effective ways to protect your cat from eagle attacks is to keep them indoors.

This section will discuss the benefits of indoor cats, including protection from predators like eagles.

We will provide tips on how to keep your cat stimulated and happy while indoors, and how to create a safe and comfortable indoor environment.

2. Supervise Your Cat When Outside

If you do allow your cat outside, it is important to supervise them to minimize the risk of an eagle attack.

This section will provide tips on how to monitor your cat’s outdoor activities, including how to use a harness and leash, and how to create a safe outdoor enclosure.

3. Secure Your Outdoor Enclosure

For cat owners who want to provide their cats with outdoor access, a secure outdoor enclosure can be a good compromise.

This section will provide tips on how to create a secure outdoor enclosure for your cat, including how to choose the right materials and how to design the enclosure to prevent eagle attacks.

4. Be Vigilant During Eagle Nesting Season

Eagles are most likely to attack cats during their nesting season, which varies depending on the species and location.

This section will provide advice on how to be vigilant during eagle nesting season, including how to recognize signs of eagle activity and how to adjust your cat’s outdoor routine during this time.

5. Work with Your Community to Protect Wildlife

Protecting wildlife, including eagles, is a community effort.

This section will discuss how cat owners can work with their communities to protect wildlife habitats and reduce the risk of eagle attacks.

We will provide tips on how to get involved in local conservation efforts and how to educate others about the importance of coexisting with wildlife.

Eagles: Top Predators of the Sky

Eagles are powerful and majestic birds of prey known for their keen eyesight and impressive hunting skills.

This section will provide an overview of the different species of eagles, their habitats, and their role as top predators in the ecosystem.

We will discuss how eagles use their sharp talons and beaks to capture and kill their prey, and examine the different types of prey that they typically hunt.

The Diet of Eagles

Eagles are birds of prey and are known for their carnivorous diet.

They primarily hunt small mammals such as rodents, rabbits, and squirrels, but they also eat larger prey like deer and coyotes.

Eagles have even been known to attack and eat other birds, including other raptors like hawks and owls.

What Do Eagles Eat? A Look at Their Diet

In this section, we will explore the diverse diet of eagles and the different types of prey that they hunt.

We will discuss the hunting techniques that eagles use to capture their prey, including aerial attacks and swooping dives.

We will also look at how eagles adapt their hunting strategies to their environment and the availability of food sources.

Can Eagles Eat Cats? Understanding Their Prey Preferences

This section will delve into the main question of the article: can eagles eat cats?

We will examine the factors that influence an eagle’s choice of prey, including the size and agility of the prey, and the eagle’s own physical capabilities.

We will also discuss whether domestic cats are a common prey item for eagles, and if so, in what circumstances.

Eagle Attacks on Pets: What You Need to Know

Sadly, eagle attacks on pets are not uncommon in areas where eagles and domestic animals coexist.

This section will provide examples of reported eagle attacks on domestic pets, including cats.

We will also discuss the signs that an eagle may be targeting a pet, and provide advice on what to do if you suspect an eagle is threatening your pet.

Living in an Eagle Habitat: Keeping Your Pets Safe

For pet owners who live in areas where eagles are known to hunt, there are several steps you can take to keep your pets safe.

This section will provide practical advice on how to minimize the risk of eagle attacks, including keeping your pets indoors or supervised when outside, and securing outdoor enclosures as eagles eat cats.

The Importance of Wildlife Conservation and Coexistence

Eagles and other wildlife play a critical role in the ecosystem, and it is important to protect them and their habitats.

In this section, we will discuss the importance of conservation efforts to preserve eagle populations and their prey.

We will also explore the concept of coexistence and how humans can learn to live alongside eagles and other wildlife.

Eagle Myths and Legends from Around the World

Eagles have been a part of human mythology and culture for thousands of years.

This section will share interesting myths and legends about eagles from different cultures around the world.

From Native American traditions to ancient Greek mythology, we will explore the many ways that eagles have been revered and celebrated throughout history.

Coexisting with Eagles and Other Wildlife

We will emphasize the importance of respecting and protecting all types of wildlife, and share resources for those interested in learning more about eagle conservation and coexistence.

FAQs

Are cats scared of eagles?

Yes, cats are usually scared of eagles because eagles are natural predators and can pose a threat to them.

Is an eagle stronger than a cat?

Yes, eagles are much stronger than cats.

They have powerful talons and can carry prey that is much heavier than a cat.

Do eagles eat animals?

Yes, eagles are carnivorous and primarily eat other animals.

Their diet consists mainly of fish and small mammals such as rabbits and rodents.

Do eagles attack humans?

Eagles do not usually attack humans, but they can become aggressive if they feel threatened or if their territory is invaded.

What is eagle afraid of?

Eagles are afraid of large predators such as bears and wolves, as well as humans.

They may also be scared of loud noises and sudden movements.

Can a human win a fight with an eagle?

No, it is highly unlikely that a human could win a fight against an eagle.

Eagles are powerful predators with sharp talons and a strong beak.

What is more powerful than an eagle?

There are few predators that are more powerful than an eagle, but some examples include grizzly bears, crocodiles, and killer whales.

What is the biggest bird of prey?

The largest bird of prey is the Andean condor, which can have a wingspan of over 10 feet and weigh up to 33 pounds.

Read Also: Can Ducks Eat Sunflower Seeds? What You Need To Know

Who is stronger, a human or an eagle?

Eagles are much stronger than humans in terms of physical abilities such as strength and speed.

What is the weakness of an eagle?

One weakness of an eagle is that they are vulnerable to environmental threats such as habitat loss, pollution, and climate change.

They may also be susceptible to disease and parasites.

Eagles are opportunistic hunters and will go after any prey that presents itself as an easy target.

As a cat owner, it’s important to take precautions to keep your cat safe from potential eagle attacks.

Whether that means keeping them indoors or supervising them while they’re outside, it’s better to be safe than sorry as eagles eat cats.

They are opportunistic hunters and will go after any prey that presents itself as an easy target.

Cats, especially outdoor cats, can be vulnerable to eagle attacks if they are outside and unattended.

This is more likely to happen in areas where eagles are abundant and there is a shortage of other prey.

Real-Life Examples

There have been a few documented cases of eagles attacking and eating cats.

In 2015, a bald eagle was captured on camera carrying off a small domestic cat in British Columbia, Canada.

Similarly, in 2019, a golden eagle was spotted carrying a dead cat in its talons in Scotland. These incidents are rare, but they do happen.

How to Protect Your Cat

If you’re a cat owner, you may be wondering what you can do to protect your furry friend from eagle attacks.

The best thing you can do is keep your cat indoors.

Not only will this protect them from potential eagle attacks, but it will also keep them safe from other outdoor dangers like cars and other animals.

If you must let your cat outside, make sure you supervise them and don’t leave them outside for long periods of time.

You can also invest in a cat enclosure that will allow your cat to enjoy the outdoors while still being protected from predators.

5 Ways to Protect Your Cats from Eagles:

1. Keep Your Cat Indoors

One of the most effective ways to protect your cat from eagle attacks is to keep them indoors.

This section will discuss the benefits of indoor cats, including protection from predators like eagles.

We will provide tips on how to keep your cat stimulated and happy while indoors, and how to create a safe and comfortable indoor environment.

2. Supervise Your Cat When Outside

If you do allow your cat outside, it is important to supervise them to minimize the risk of an eagle attack.

This section will provide tips on how to monitor your cat’s outdoor activities, including how to use a harness and leash, and how to create a safe outdoor enclosure.

3. Secure Your Outdoor Enclosure

For cat owners who want to provide their cats with outdoor access, a secure outdoor enclosure can be a good compromise.

This section will provide tips on how to create a secure outdoor enclosure for your cat, including how to choose the right materials and how to design the enclosure to prevent eagle attacks.

4. Be Vigilant During Eagle Nesting Season

Eagles are most likely to attack cats during their nesting season, which varies depending on the species and location.

This section will provide advice on how to be vigilant during eagle nesting season, including how to recognize signs of eagle activity and how to adjust your cat’s outdoor routine during this time.

5. Work with Your Community to Protect Wildlife

Protecting wildlife, including eagles, is a community effort.

This section will discuss how cat owners can work with their communities to protect wildlife habitats and reduce the risk of eagle attacks.

We will provide tips on how to get involved in local conservation efforts and how to educate others about the importance of coexisting with wildlife.

Eagles: Top Predators of the Sky

Eagles are powerful and majestic birds of prey known for their keen eyesight and impressive hunting skills.

This section will provide an overview of the different species of eagles, their habitats, and their role as top predators in the ecosystem.

We will discuss how eagles use their sharp talons and beaks to capture and kill their prey, and examine the different types of prey that they typically hunt.

The Diet of Eagles

Eagles are birds of prey and are known for their carnivorous diet.

They primarily hunt small mammals such as rodents, rabbits, and squirrels, but they also eat larger prey like deer and coyotes.

Eagles have even been known to attack and eat other birds, including other raptors like hawks and owls.

What Do Eagles Eat? A Look at Their Diet

In this section, we will explore the diverse diet of eagles and the different types of prey that they hunt.

We will discuss the hunting techniques that eagles use to capture their prey, including aerial attacks and swooping dives.

We will also look at how eagles adapt their hunting strategies to their environment and the availability of food sources.

Can Eagles Eat Cats? Understanding Their Prey Preferences

This section will delve into the main question of the article: can eagles eat cats?

We will examine the factors that influence an eagle’s choice of prey, including the size and agility of the prey, and the eagle’s own physical capabilities.

We will also discuss whether domestic cats are a common prey item for eagles, and if so, in what circumstances.

Table of Contents

Toggle

• Eagles and Cats
• Real-Life Examples
  • How to Protect Your Cat
• 5 Ways to Protect Your Cats from Eagles:
  • 1. Keep Your Cat Indoors
  • 2. Supervise Your Cat When Outside
  • 3. Secure Your Outdoor Enclosure
  • 4. Be Vigilant During Eagle Nesting Season
  • 5. Work with Your Community to Protect Wildlife
• Eagles: Top Predators of the Sky
• The Diet of Eagles
• What Do Eagles Eat? A Look at Their Diet
• Can Eagles Eat Cats? Understanding Their Prey Preferences
• Eagle Attacks on Pets: What You Need to Know
• Living in an Eagle Habitat: Keeping Your Pets Safe
• The Importance of Wildlife Conservation and Coexistence
• Eagle Myths and Legends from Around the World
• Coexisting with Eagles and Other Wildlife
• FAQs
  • Are cats scared of eagles?
  • Is an eagle stronger than a cat?
  • Do eagles eat animals?
  • Do eagles attack humans?
  • What is eagle afraid of?
  • Can a human win a fight with an eagle?
  • What is more powerful than an eagle?
  • What is the biggest bird of prey?
  • Who is stronger, a human or an eagle?
  • What is the weakness of an eagle?
• Real-Life Examples
  • How to Protect Your Cat
• 5 Ways to Protect Your Cats from Eagles:
  • 1. Keep Your Cat Indoors
  • 2. Supervise Your Cat When Outside
  • 3. Secure Your Outdoor Enclosure
  • 4. Be Vigilant During Eagle Nesting Season
  • 5. Work with Your Community to Protect Wildlife
• Eagles: Top Predators of the Sky
• The Diet of Eagles
• What Do Eagles Eat? A Look at Their Diet
• Can Eagles Eat Cats? Understanding Their Prey Preferences
• Eagle Attacks on Pets: What You Need to Know
• Living in an Eagle Habitat: Keeping Your Pets Safe
• The Importance of Wildlife Conservation and Coexistence
• Eagle Myths and Legends from Around the World
• Coexisting with Eagles and Other Wildlife
• FAQs
  • Are cats scared of eagles?
  • Is an eagle stronger than a cat?
  • Do eagles eat animals?
  • Do eagles attack humans?
  • What is eagle afraid of?
  • Can a human win a fight with an eagle?
  • What is more powerful than an eagle?
  • What is the biggest bird of prey?
  • Who is stronger, a human or an eagle?

Eagle Attacks on Pets: What You Need to Know

Sadly, eagle attacks on pets are not uncommon in areas where eagles and domestic animals coexist.

This section will provide examples of reported eagle attacks on domestic pets, including cats.

We will also discuss the signs that an eagle may be targeting a pet, and provide advice on what to do if you suspect an eagle is threatening your pet.

Living in an Eagle Habitat: Keeping Your Pets Safe

For pet owners who live in areas where eagles are known to hunt, there are several steps you can take to keep your pets safe.

This section will provide practical advice on how to minimize the risk of eagle attacks, including keeping your pets indoors or supervised when outside, and securing outdoor enclosures as eagles eat cats.

The Importance of Wildlife Conservation and Coexistence

Eagles and other wildlife play a critical role in the ecosystem, and it is important to protect them and their habitats.

In this section, we will discuss the importance of conservation efforts to preserve eagle populations and their prey.

We will also explore the concept of coexistence and how humans can learn to live alongside eagles and other wildlife.

Eagle Myths and Legends from Around the World

Eagles have been a part of human mythology and culture for thousands of years.

This section will share interesting myths and legends about eagles from different cultures around the world.

From Native American traditions to ancient Greek mythology, we will explore the many ways that eagles have been revered and celebrated throughout history.

Coexisting with Eagles and Other Wildlife

We will emphasize the importance of respecting and protecting all types of wildlife, and share resources for those interested in learning more about eagle conservation and coexistence.

FAQs

Are cats scared of eagles?

Yes, cats are usually scared of eagles because eagles are natural predators and can pose a threat to them.

Is an eagle stronger than a cat?

Yes, eagles are much stronger than cats.

They have powerful talons and can carry prey that is much heavier than a cat.

Do eagles eat animals?

Yes, eagles are carnivorous and primarily eat other animals.

Their diet consists mainly of fish and small mammals such as rabbits and rodents.

Do eagles attack humans?

Eagles do not usually attack humans, but they can become aggressive if they feel threatened or if their territory is invaded.

What is eagle afraid of?

Eagles are afraid of large predators such as bears and wolves, as well as humans.

They may also be scared of loud noises and sudden movements.

Can a human win a fight with an eagle?

No, it is highly unlikely that a human could win a fight against an eagle.

Eagles are powerful predators with sharp talons and a strong beak.

What is more powerful than an eagle?

There are few predators that are more powerful than an eagle, but some examples include grizzly bears, crocodiles, and killer whales.

What is the biggest bird of prey?

The largest bird of prey is the Andean condor, which can have a wingspan of over 10 feet and weigh up to 33 pounds.

Read Also: Can Ducks Eat Sunflower Seeds? What You Need To Know

Who is stronger, a human or an eagle?

Eagles are much stronger than humans in terms of physical abilities such as strength and speed.

Yes, it’s time to answer the age-old question of who would win in a fight: the ferocious grizzly bear of sub-Arctic North America, or the hulking polar bear from the frozen tundra.

Both are formidable opponents, as they both sit on top of their respective food chain, but what if these two were to meet each other in less-than friendly circumstances?

How would their differences in stature and hunting strategies measure up? In order to answer this question, we will have to take a closer look at each animal’s individual stats.

The Weigh-In

Height

5-8’ 7-10’

Weight

400-1000 lbs 775-1,300 lbs

Paw Width

7” 12”

Claw Size

2-4” 2-4”

Bite Force

975 PSI 1200 PSI

Speed

35mph 25mph

As you can see from the table above, the polar bear has a HUGE advantage in size. Quite simply, they’re massive.

With their extreme size and weight, they are perfectly evolved to endure the harsh winters of their arctic habitats.

Polar bears do not really hibernate, because the Fall and Winter months provide the best environment for accessing food.

This is because when the ice forms, the bears have access to their main food source: the seal.

They are able to venture further out from land and hunt in the seal-rich waters.

Furthermore, their thicker fur and fat supplies make them a harder target to defeat, as teeth and claws have a much farther distance to go in order to do any damage.

While still being huge, the Grizzly is a much leaner predator.

Their size is more suited for warmer climates, thicker vegetation and faster prey.

The Grizzly does not have the same need for insulation that the polar bear does because unlike polar bears, they hibernate during the cold months.

Oppositely to their arctic cousins, Winter is a lean season for the Grizzly, as migratory animals move south and food becomes scarce.

Paws and Claws

In order to support their great size, their paws need to be huge as well.

Also, their broad size gives them much needed traction as they traverse snow drifts.

Their paws also make them incredibly adept swimmers, as they work like flippers and help propel them to hunt aquatic prey.

Claws, on the other hand (pun intended), the Grizzly might see a slight advantage.

While being roughly the same size, the Grizzly’s claw is built for digging and doing damage to any opponent it might face in the wild.

The polar bear’s claw is more built for giving traction in the snow, and for taking hold of seals, which make up most of its diet.

Much like the polar bear, seals have large fat reserves to insulate them from arctic climates. Because of this, polar bears’ claws must be good at grabbing hold of them so they can then eat them.

A sharper, more slender claw might eviscerate their prey’s flesh, but cause them to lose it in the ocean in the process.

As far as paw size, the polar bear has the advantage.

Mouth and Bite Force

Not only is their mouth much larger, but their teeth are more designed for delivering the fatal blow than the Grizzly’s.

As mentioned before, grizzly bear’s claws are the most powerful weapons in its arsenal.

As the Grizzly’s diet is more varied, it has more rounded molars than the polar bear.

This helps the Grizzly grind down vegetal food in the absence of live prey.

Now, let’s talk about bite pressure.

Measuring at 1200 PSI, there are only a few animals on earth that have a greater bite force than that of the polar bear (the top of the list being the saltwater crocodile).

Not to say the grizzly bear’s bite is weak, as it certainly is not. At 975 PSI, it is only a few spots down from the polar bear in ranking.

But what do these numbers mean?

In more practical terms, these animals can easily bite through a cast iron pan, a cinder block or even a bowling ball. Imagine what it would do to you!

The polar bear has the advantage when it comes to mouth and bite force

Head Games

On the topic of robustness of skulls, this one goes to the Grizzly.

Their heads are built like a battering ram with incredibly thick bone all around.

In fact, their skulls have been known to deflect rifle bullets.

They are built for fighting and raw aggression.

Polar bears have much more slender skulls in comparison.

This makes them more streamline in the water, making them stronger swimmers, but more vulnerable to trauma in the head region.

Even with the polar bear’s stronger bite force, if a fight were to be decided by a head chomp, it might go in the favor of the Grizzly.

Speed

If the fight comes down to a chase, or they decide to settle the squabble peacefully with a good old fashioned woodland foot race, the grizzly would once again have the advantage.

A common misconception with grizzly bears is that they’re big and slow. In fact, they are big and fast, clocking in at 35mph!

That means a bear could run the entire 360 foot length of a football field in 7 seconds!

It’s huge paws and streamline body make a swimmer of Phelpsian proportions.

If the race is a swim-off, than the polar bear is going to edge out the competition.

Agression

Both are incredibly aggressive creatures and would have no problem with defending themselves if provoked.

There have been more accounts of humans being attacked by grizzly bears, but that is mostly due to the population density in which they live.

However, polar bears alone claim a very impressive title: they are the only species on earth that considers humans food.

While other animals are known to attack, kill and eat humans, this is usually due to provocation.

Polar bears see humans as a viable food source and will stalk and hunt people as a means to survive in the barren arctic.

I’m calling this one a draw.

Intelligence

The polar bear is widely regarded as one of the planet’s most intelligent hunters.

Their ability to stalk prey over long distances and outsmart and outmaneuver makes them absolute master tacticians.

Seeing as how they often use their wits to prey on humans speaks volumes to their prowess.

If our Ursidae melee involves some level of hide and seek, the decision would go to the polar bear.

Strengths & Weaknesses

Both animals are evolutionary masterpieces and are perfectly equipped to reign supreme in their respective habitats.

This means that their strengths may prove to be weaknesses if transplanted into a different environment. And vice versa.

For example, the polar bear has incredibly dense fur and heavy fat reserves. It is perfectly suited for life in the arctic.

However, if you were to bring a polar bear into a sub arctic summer, it would tire easily and need to cool down before long.

They are bears from very different environments, which makes it difficult to parse out strengths and weaknesses.

Final Verdict

If we were to somehow create a neutral arena, one that plays to neither the polar or the grizzly bear’s advantages, we would have a very even fight, despite the size difference.

If it came to a close-quarters brawl, the polar bear might have an advantage.

While not possessing the sharp claws of the grizzly, its huge paws and strength could deal a fatal blow to the smaller opponent.

It’s thick coat and skin would help shield against any minor lashes from the grizzly.

If the polar bear gets close enough to use its powerful jaws, it might be a done deal.

However, if the grizzly bear can get a bit of distance, its speed could prove to be a huge advantage.

Quicker and more mobile than the hulking polar bear, it could dip in for quick strikes and tire it out.

If we’re not talking about an all-out brawl, this could all change.

As mentioned before, polar bears are master hunters and swimmers.

If this fight were to happen in an uncontrolled environment with each animal’s location being unknown, the polar bear would edge out the grizzly bear.

In real life?

There have been no recorded instances of a grizzly fighting a polar bear, but over the last decade there have been sightings of either encroaching on the other’s territory.

As climate change continues to thaw the polar ice drifts, grizzlies have been seen venturing further into polar bear territory.

While this may pique the interests of those wanting a battle royale between these two juggernauts, it almost certainly spells disaster for the future of their kind.

As human’s impact on the earth’s environment continues to worsen, these habitats are being destroyed and food sources are being depleted.

So, if you ever witness a grizzly fighting a polar bear, it’s not a great sign.

Final Thoughts

On the topic of who would win this battle, I have to defer to environmental variables.

Both are perfectly in tune with their habitat and will surely be victorious if this fight happens on home turf.

Nature always proves to be more complex, and less generous with easy answers than we hope, but can keep thinking about it all the same.

For many hunters, harvesting a moose is a once-in-a-lifetime bucket list trip. In that case, you want to make sure that you do everything possible before the hunt to ensure that it is successful once you arrive in your moose hunt camp.

One of the most important things you can do to set yourself up for success is to choose the right moose hunting cartridge.

The 10 Best Moose Hunting Cartridges

If you ask ten people for their opinion on the best moose hunting cartridge, you’ll get ten different answers – or maybe more. That is to say, there’s no one best cartridge for a moose hunt. There are a variety of variables that you have to take into consideration and make a personal decision for you and you alone.

With that in mind, here are ten moose hunting cartridges for you to consider.

.30-06 Springfield

It has been said that there’s not a single big game animal in North America that cannot be felled by a .30-06 bullet, and that’s no exaggeration. The .30-06 was the caliber of choice for hunters of all kinds for most of the 20th century. Even though newer calibers have come on the market, the .30-06 has remained a faithful standby that is certainly more than capable of harvesting a moose.

30-30 Winchester

There are plenty of old deer rifles floating around in .30-30 Winchester. You may have inherited one from your granddad, picked one up at a pawn shop, or even bought one new because of the cartridge’s versatility for lots of different hunting opportunities. Whatever the case, there’s absolutely no reason that you can’t take a moose with the old “Thutty-Thutty” standby – so long as you know the limitations of yourself as a shooter, your rifle as a platform, and your chosen load in the cartridge.

.308 Winchester

While the .308 Winchester is certainly not restricted to semi-automatic rifles, it’s a caliber that is certainly well-suited to them. If you wanted to hunt a moose with a semi-auto, then an AR-10 style rifle chambered in .308 is a good place to start. You’ll also have the advantage of using a platform that many shooters are already very familiar and comfortable with, making it an easy transition from the training or tactical environment to the hunting environment.

6.5 Creedmoor

For hunters who want the utmost precision in their shot, it’s hard to beat the 6.5 Creedmoor. Since it was designed for competition shooting, it’s beyond capable of delivering an exacting blow to the vitals of a moose so long as the shooter behind the rifle is capable of making the shot. Another advantage for the 6.5 Creedmoor is its availability in a wide variety of firearms, including semi-auto, lever-action, bolt-action, single-shot, and more.

.300 Winchester Magnum

The .300 Winchester Magnum is something of a Goldilocks cartridge for use on a moose. Whether you choose from one of the many factory loads available or you hand-load your own, the .300 Win Mag has proven itself time and time again as a more-than-capable moose cartridge with felt recoil that, while certainly noticeable, is more than manageable for most shooters.

.375 Ruger

If you’re looking to pack an equitable punch to that of the .375 H&H in a more manageable package, look no further than the .375 Ruger. It’s an absolute powerhouse of a cartridge that is more than capable of taking down the moose of a lifetime.

7mm Remington Magnum

Sometimes it all comes down to the proper bullet selection, and that couldn’t be more true than with the reliable 7mm Remington Magnum. If you load a 7mm Rem Mag cartridge with a heavy bullet that is tough and designed to stay together, then it becomes a low-recoil caliber that is hard to beat when it comes to moose.

.338 Winchester

The .338 Win Mag cartridge was made for the challenges of big, tough game, and it is capable of taking on that challenge and defeating it. With the right heavy-grain bullet, you can be confident that your projectile is traveling faster than most comparable loads on the market and will deliver the devastating punch needed for a quick and ethical harvest on your moose of a lifetime.

6.5-300 Weatherby Magnum

Everyone has a 6.5 cartridge these days, and Weatherby is no different. The 6.5-300 Weatherby Magnum claims to be the fastest 6.5 cartridge on the market. Because its case has comparatively larger volume than others in this caliber, it’s capable of fantastic velocities. This makes it a flat-shooting cartridge that is perfect for long-range shots on a moose.

.270 Winchester

The .270 Winchester meets the three A’s: accurate, affordable, and available. Hunters have been using the well-rounded .270 Winchester to bring down all sorts of wild game for decades – and that includes moose. Therefore, there’s no reason that you can’t take your hunting rifle that you use for other pursuits and put it to good use on a moose. A .270 is right at home on a moose hunt as well as in pursuit of deer, hogs, sheep, and more.

What to Look for When Choosing a Hunting Caliber

There are a lot of different things to consider when choosing a hunting caliber, but let’s take a look at three of the most important ones.

Availability

You can do all the research in the world and settle on a specific caliber for your moose hunt, but if you can’t find the ammo that you need, then it’s all been for nothing. That becomes even more important if you fail to bring enough ammo with you on the hunt. Your moose camp may be remote and the likelihood of finding some calibers may be slim if you need to restock.

Performance

Perhaps the most important part of choosing a hunting caliber is evaluating its performance. You’ve got to be sure that the load you choose is going to be capable of taking down the type of game you’re hunting in a quick and ethical manner. This is especially true when it comes to large animals like moose.

Cost

That ammo prices have risen exponentially in recent years is an unpleasant yet cold, hard fact. Similar to our point on availability, you’ve got to be able to afford the ammo when you find it. Some calibers are less expensive than others, but that doesn’t mean that they’re going to be any less effective at bringing down a moose.

Suppressed Hunting

Once you experience your first hunt with a suppressor, you won’t ever want to hunt without one again. If you’ve never done it before, that may sound like an exaggeration, but trust us, it’s not. Here’s why.

Benefits of Hunting With a Suppressor

Even when they were first commercially introduced in 1909, suppressors were actively marketed to hunters, and for good reason – they make hunting safer and quieter, eliminate the need for bulky hearing protection, and improve accuracy when shooting.

Here are just a few of the reasons why suppressed hunting is better hunting:

It makes the outdoors quiet again

Suppressors, when paired with the right firearm and ammo, reduce the sound of a gunshot to hearing safe levels, and “dull the edge” of the sound of a gunshot.

A suppressed rifle doesn’t disturb the game that you are after

Animals have great hearing, and that’s to their benefit – not yours. The hearing of coyotes, squirrels, wild pigs, mule deer, whitetail deer, elk, pronghorn antelope, bighorn sheep, moose, caribou, and plenty of other game animals all have incredible hearing. The sound of a gunshot can keep them out of their known territory for weeks at a time.

Hunting with a suppressor is safer

While in recent years electronic ear muffs that allow you to hear ambient noise while blocking the sound of gunfire have hit the market, the simple fact is most hunters still choose between no ear protection or wearing something that makes it hard to hear what is going on around them. Using a suppressor on your hunting rifle allows you to hear everything that is going on around you, and not damage your hearing when taking a shot.

Accuracy is improved when shooting with a suppressor

This benefit has also been touted since the early 20th century. This is because the physics of a silencer reduces felt recoil and muzzle climb. With both of these factors greatly reduced, shooters find their rifles easier to shoot. So it isn’t that silencers make the gun more accurate per se, but they make it easier for YOU to shoot your gun more accurately.

Which one is better: MOA or MRAD?

The short answer: it’s your preference. If you use the metric system (meters/centimeters) then go for MRAD. But if you measure in the empirical system (yards/inches) then MOA may be easier.

If you want a more thorough answer along with an explanation of MOA vs MRAD, then keep on reading!

MOA vs MRAD: Why do we care?

Suppose you’re headed out on a hunting trip with your buddies.

You did your research, you read the best rifle scope guide, and you’re ready to go. But then your buddy starts talking in meters and your MOA turrets are adjusting in yards.

His numbers don’t match your turrets, your turrets don’t match your reticle, and now your target has bounded off to another state.

The problem: he was using MRAD while you were using MOA.

MOA and MRAD are basically two different systems of measurement.

When sighting rifle scopes, the reticle and turrets are used together to reach the most accurate shot possible. The turrets change the position of your reticle while your reticle provides an aiming point.

Your turret clicks and the hashes on your reticle can use one of two different systems of scope alignment: MOA or MRAD.

You can have the best long range scope on the market, but if you don’t sight it in using either system, it’s useless.

If you’re looking for help choosing between rifle scopes, here’s the only guide you’ll need to read.

What’s an MOA Scope?

M.O.A. stands for Minutes of Angle; a system based on degrees and minutes. This type of angle measurement is used to calculate the distance to a target and MOA turrets correction for the bullet trajectory.

Basically the math breaks down to this: there are 360 degrees in a circle, and 60 minutes in a degree for a total of 21,600 degrees.

You can find your MOA measurement by multiplying the distance in yards by 1.047, then dividing by 100. You can thank the Ancient Egyptians and Mesopotamians later.

At 200 yards, one MOA equals 2.094 inches. Out to 1,000 yards, 1 MOA equals 10.47 inches, and so on.

For those of us who aren’t Einstein, the easiest way I’ve found is to use a quick-reference conversion chart. That way you don’t miss your prize buck while scribbling away on math problems.

MOA scopes aren’t a perfect system though.

Often calculations are made with 1 MOA at 100 yards (91.4 meters), but you need to count on 100 yards with 1.05 MOA. Up to 100 yards there will be no problem with 1 to 100 comparison, but when shooting over longer distances you’ll be 5% off base and this could mean missing a shot.

This isn’t a problem if you’re only shooting at medium ranges. Read my 4×32 scope guide for more details.

I use an MOA reticle scope on my AR-15 A2 after I removed the front sights for added cool guy points. I’ll show you how to remove the AR-15 A2 sights here.

What’s an MRAD Rifle Scope?

MRAD stands for milliradians (or MIL for short), and was originally developed for artillery in the late 1800s. It’s still the preferred method for military and police force operations to this day, where you’ll commonly here it referred to as a MIL-dot reticle.

Based on a radial line, a unit of angular measurement that is equal to roughly 57.3 degrees, a milliradian is one thousandth of a radian.

This system does not come out to make a perfect circle like the MOA system. Instead, milliradians divide the circumference of a circle into 6.28 equal sections measuring 57.3 degrees each in an MRAD scope.

Thus, every circle has a circle circumference that is 6.28 radians long. Then each radian is going to be divided into 1,000 parts more, which is called Milliradians.

When calculating MRAD in a MIL-based scope, you will be calling it MIL, which is 3.6 inches at 100 yards (91.4m using the metric system) equal to 1 MIL.

I tried an MRAD scope on my M1A that happens to have the best M1A scope mount ever.

MOA vs MRAD: Which is better?

The short answer: neither. The argument is as old as time, but it’s really just the shooter’s preference of rifle scope.

The fight between MOA vs MRAD boils down to a difference in how we format degrees of angular measure. It’s fancy math terminology that basically asks if you use yards or meters.

Technically, the 1/4 MOA clicks are slightly more accurate than the 1/10 MIL, but the MIL values are somewhat easier to communicate.

Reference cards with MIL are easier to read because they are indicated by 2 numbers only, while the cards with MOA are indicated with four numbers. We could go back and forth all day, but you get the idea.

If you like other comparisons, check out my Nightforce SHV vs. Vortex PST guide.

Which do you need?

Choosing between the MOA or MRAD system will take some self reflection, so buckle up.

If you normally think in meters or centimeters, then it is easier to calculate distance with a MOA. If you normally think in yards or inches, then MRAD should be your go-to.

And if you’re not going to calculate distances, it doesn’t matter between the MRAD vs MOA. Do your thing, both types are equally effective for medium- and long-range shooting.

Another thing to take into account is that you also have to consider your hunting partners, teammates, friends, and so on. You’ll want to have a common language so you can communicate together without having to do conversions between the two systems.

Or you could be an absolute rebel and have a scope for each system, swapping it out in the field with the best quick detach scope mounts. Live your life to the fullest.

Most importantly, choose the same system for your turrets and scope reticles. I have a guide on first focal planes vs. second focal planes to help you choose the right reticle as well.

Regardless of all the math, the decision between MOA and MRAD isn’t that important. Clicks with an MOA turret are slightly more precise than clicks with a MIL turret, but at the end of the day it’s a style choice between rifle scopes.

FAQ

Hunters who share access and hunt together tend to name treestands and blinds. It’s fun and necessary, especially when trying to identify where someone is going for the day. So, if you’re slapping a handle on a spot, why not make it creative, funny or even weird? Here are 20 real-life honey holes that fall into those categories.

1. Rut Roof Inn

Kentucky hunter Logan Beach once planted a food plot close to bedding cover. We would have bucks bed on the edge off about 30 yards and wait on does, he said. We thought of it as a hotel bed and breakfast. Thus, it became Rut Roof Inn.

2. Yellow Brick Road

Another Beach special, Yellow Brick Road is self-explanatory. It’s a set on a main corridor between a major food source and a corn pile, he said. (There was) constant deer movement, and whichever way they turned off dictated which spot they would end up at for the day.

3. Crash Site

Kyle Culbreth, another Kentucky hunter, had a scare several seasons ago. In 2009, he fell from an elevated platform. I had a treestand break and fell 25-plus feet, he said. That stand location is now called Crash Site.”

4. Church

Deer diehard Luke Koch has a spot he calls going to Church. It’s at the end of a long draw, and an old, white country church is nearby. At 9 a.m., the bells toll, and you can hear it well from the treestand.

5. Easy Pickens

Big-game hunter extraordinaire Jonathan Losli hunts a lot. And this past season, he had a treestand produce in a big way. It relinquished one elk and two deer on the opener. Now, he calls that spot Easy Pickens.

6. Maternity Ward

Audrey Pfaffe is another serious whitetail hunter, and a spot she used to hunt is aptly named. There was a wooded hillside at my grandpa’s old dairy farm that the cows would always sneak off into to have their calves, she said. We call it the Maternity Ward, as a lot of bucks would bed in there since it was so thick.

7. The Penthouse

Kate Sanford is a big-buck slayer, and one of his spots is comfortable. We have an enclosed stand that a friend built, and we call it The Penthouse because it was the fanciest we had ever had, she said.

8. Cat Gut

Dave Skinner is a hunting land real estate agent and a longtime deer hunter. A spot a friend of his hunts is called Cat Gut. I’m not creative enough to come up with good names, but Cat Gut was named after the shape the river made as it winds through the property, he said. Looks like an intestinal tract.

9. Control Tower

Zack Smith hunts the outskirts of a major international airport. We have a ladder stand on a big ridge that overlooks a huge draw, and it’s way up there, he said. So, in true airport fashion, we’ve dubbed it the Control Tower.

10. Droptine Hotel

Jason Kidd had never killed a droptine deer. Then, he wrote it into existence. When Dad and I built our first shooting houses for the farm, I came up with a name for mine, he said. I took a Sharpie and wrote on the inside of the blind that it was the Droptine Hotel. I had never killed a deer with a droptine, but it sounded cool. The next year, I killed my first deer out of that old shooting house, and it had a 4-inch droptine.

11. Terror Tower

Tommy Warder’s scariest hunting spot is called Terror Tower, and for good reason. We had a 15-foot open-topped tower stand in a brushy field, he said. The stand was wired to a tree that would sway back and forth when the wind blew.

12. The Hangover Stand

Realtree’s Will Brantley is an outdoor editor, writer, and hunting outfitter. One spot that might not get hunted often is called The Hangover Stand. It’s about 100 yards from the back door of the cabin.

13. Coke Bottle Stand

Sid Herring Jr. has tagged many deer from The Coke Bottle Stand. It got the name after he found a great treestand location in a well-traveled draw. It had an old glass Coke bottle placed in a fork, and the tree had grown around it, he said. Killed many deer out of that stand on that tree.

14. Freezer Foray

Someone once unceremoniously and disrespectfully dumped an old freezer on Kevin Thayer’s property. He decided to make the best of it and shot a big 10-point buck from it. Someone else’s massive litter worked out well for him.

15. Death Bunker

Deer hunter Aaron Mudd calls one spot Death Bunker, in respect to the many whitetails and turkeys taken from it. The name comes from all the blood shed on it in years past, he said. It’s the one spot on the farm that if someone needs a deer, we go to (it). It has never failed to produce.

16. Melting Pot

Seth Martin hunts a spot called Melting Pot, because it gets hot during early archery season. The sun bakes you, he said. But if you can stand it, it’s going to produce. Later, I put a box stand there. The name stuck.

17. Buzzard Blind

Outdoor writer Darron McDougal hunted in Georgia this past season and sat in one blind a few times. He called it Buzzard Blind because of the heavy sign of buzzards frequenting it. Eventually, toward the end of the hunt, he shot a good buck from it.

18. The Land Strip

Kyle Campbell dubbed one of his favorite spots The Landing Strip. It’s on a creek crossing, and they cleared up the brush and made the crossing so wide it looks like you can land a plane in there, he said.

19. Sunglasses

One of the deadliest treestand locations on a farm I hunt gets blasted by the sunrise. On cloudless mornings, you can’t look eastward without a set of sunglasses. Thus, it came to be known as Sunglasses. But man, it’s a killer spot, and I can think of at least 10 mature bucks taken from it since 2015.

20. Dead Man Stand

Another great stand location on a property I hunt is on the edge of an old cemetery. At first, I called it Dead Man Stand. However, out of respect to those who rest there, I later changed it to Cemetery Stand. Afterward, we started knocking down some big deer from it, and it has relinquished several 4-½-plus-year-old bucks since.

Do you have some unique, funny or downright weird treestand and ground blind location names? If so, drop them in the comments section, and tell us all about them.

(Don’t Miss: 20 Deer Hunting Lies Your Granddaddy Told You)

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• Thetford Porta Potti 365 Toilet Review

Is Thetford’s Offering One of the Best Portable Camping Toilets?

If you’re looking for a family-sized portable camping toilet, the Thetford 365 may be the right one for you. Discover what it has to offer and what you need from a portable toilet.

An innovator in the portable camping toilet space, Thetford’s history dates back to 1960. It was in that year that the company produced its first portable toilet for campers. Since then, it’s honed its models constantly and become a leading name in the industry.

The Thetford Porta Potti 365 Toilet is among the more popular models that it has to offer. In this review, we’re going to take a look at whether the toilet lives up to its billing, as well as tackling a few concerns. We’re also going to tell you what you need to look for when shopping for a portable toilet.

The Good

• Offers 57 flushes before you need to empty it.
• Very lightweight, which makes it easy to carry.
• Made using high-quality and durable plastics.
• Comes with a three-year warranty.
• Comes with several features to help you empty it easily.

The Bad

• May not ship with the chemicals needed (depending on the retailer).
• Its size can make it difficult to transport with other camping gear.

The Bottom Line

The Thetford Porta Potti 365 Toilet is huge, which means you can usually get through a trip without having to empty it. The toilet’s light weight makes it easy to move around and it feels almost like a full-sized toilet.

This may be one of the best portable camping toilets available today.

The Full Review

To test this toilet, we took it out in the wild with us for a three-day camping trip.

We focused on a few key issues that we want to cover here. These include the following:

• Ease of Use
• Stability
• Materials
• The Smell
• Portability
• Capacity
• Other Features

Let’s see how it fares.

Toilet Ease of Use

This is an area where the Thetford Porta Potti 365 really shines.

On a practical level, its size makes it one of the closest portable simulations of a regular toilet that you will find. Taller people won’t find themselves squatting uncomfortably while using it. That said, smaller children may need a little support.

However, it’s the emptying of the toilet that really makes this model stand out.

It comes with a visual indicator for the bottom tank. This tells you when the toilet’s starting to fill up. As a result, you don’t have to crack it open to take a look for yourself. You get to avoid an unpleasant experience as well as ensuring you don’t release any strange odors into your campsite.

Once it reaches capacity, you still don’t have to open the waste tank. Instead, you can take advantage of the emptying spout that Thetford builds into all of its toilets. This releases all of the waste that’s built up inside the bottom tank. Plus, it prevents any nasty splash back. It’s as simple as pressing the vent button after directing the emptying spout into the correct position.

Thetford has also focused on ease of use in their tank construction. The toilet consists of two tanks, which you can clip together using a clasp located at the back. The bottom tank holds the waste while the top tank contains the bowl.

Thetford has also placed the flusher on the back of the tank, which ensures that it doesn’t get in your way during use. You also get a choice of a piston or bellow flusher. Keep in mind that bellow flushers take a little more effort to push down. This may make them less suitable for children or the elderly.

All in all, the Thetford Porta Potti 365 simulates the toilet you have at home well. It’s easy to put together and you don’t even have to open it to empty it. Just keep in mind that its size and your flusher choice may make it slightly more difficult to use for children and the elderly.

Porta Potti Stability

Nobody wants a portable chemical toilet that can’t stay upright when in use.

Thankfully, the Thetford 365 excels in this area. Its cube shape means it’s rarely going to buckle when in use. Unless you’re actively trying to tip it over, you’ll find it stays in place well. This is surprising given the lightweight plastics used in its construction.

Of course, you’ll need flat ground to place it on. However, that’s pretty standard for all portable camping toilets. It’s also worth noting that it doesn’t come with any attachments that secure it to the ground. That’s normally not a problem, but it does mean you won’t want to leave it in the open if it gets too windy.

Having said that, there are a couple of accessories available that fix the toilet to the floor and keep it held down. However, you may have to buy these separately.

Materials

The Thetford Porta Potti 365 Toilet stands out because it contains practically no metal parts.

Instead, both of the tanks and most of the components use a high-quality plastic. You may think this raises questions about its durability, but we found that the plastics don’t present any problems. The toilet doesn’t buckle under the weight of whoever sits on it. Plus, the use of plastic means it won’t get damaged if left out in the elements,

That’s not to say that it’s indestructible. A heavy impact onto rocks or a similarly hard surface could cause damage. But that shouldn’t be a problem as long as you take care when handling it.

The Smell

No matter how well a portable chemical toilet works, if it has an overpowering smell you’re not going to want to use it.

Thankfully, this is another area where the Thetford 365 excels. Using a pink deodorising chemical in the top tank does a great job of masking any smells that it might emit. The plastic materials also prevent smells from escaping when the toilet’s not in use.

Toilet Portability

You would expect such a large toilet to present some portability problems. And that could be the case if you’re traveling in a compact vehicle. It requires a fair amount of room given that it measures 41.4 x 37.9 x 41.9cm. However, you can mitigate this problem if you disconnect the tanks before storing.

Carrying the toilet is a completely different story. Without any chemicals inside, the toilet weighs just 3.7kg. That means that any able-bodied adult should find it easy to carry.

There’s also a handle that extends out of the waste tank. This means you can carry it separately from the top tank if you’ve pre-filled it with chemicals before traveling.

The handle also gives you some separation from the waste tank while carrying. Anyone who’s gotten splashed with toilet chemicals before will appreciate this feature.

Tank Capacity

This is one of the best portable camping toilets when it comes to capacity.

The Thetford 365’s waste tank can hold 21 litres before it needs emptying. That amounts to about 57 flushes, which is more than enough to cover most short camping trips.

Other Features

Newer Thetford 365 models come with an integrated lock cover over the clasp that joins the two tanks together. This prevents you from accidentally unclasping the toilet when carrying it or when it’s in use.

This portable chemical toilet also comes with a three-year warranty. This speaks volumes about Thetford’s confidence in its durability.

Finally, it’s possible to purchase spare parts for this toilet. This offers some peace of mind for those who worry about their toilet breaking down while they’re camping. Plus, it means you may not have to shell out for a new toilet if something goes wrong.

5 Points On How to Choose the Right Portable Toilet:

Of course, the Thetford 365 is just one of many portable camping toilets that you can choose from. You’ll likely want to compare several models, which means you need to know how to choose the right portable toilet.

This buyer’s guide covers some of the key features of portable camping toilets. It also offers information about what you’ll need to keep your toilet in good working condition.

Keep it in mind when making your choice so you can avoid disappointment.

1. The Flusher

You’ll usually get a choice between automatic and manual flushers when choosing a portable toilet.

Automatic flushers tend to work electronically and usually just require the press of a button. This makes them easy to use, but it does open the toilet up to issues. If something happens with the electronics, you may end up being unable to flush.

Manual flushers require a little more effort. However, many would argue that they’re more reliable than automatic flushers.

You typically get a choice between a piston and bellow flushers when choosing a manual toilet.

Bellows require you to push down with some force to flush. This isn’t a problem for most, but may present issues for young children or the elderly. These flushers also have a habit of breaking as a result of people using more force than they need to flush.

Piston flushers require you to pull a piston up, rather than push down on the toilet. This makes them easier to use.

2. Tank Indicators

A tank indicator lets you see how close the toilet is to filling up. Some may provide a measurement, whereas others flash a colour, usually red, to tell you the tank needs emptying.

It’s important to note that not all portable chemical toilets come with these indicators. If that’s the case, you’ll have to open the waste tank to manually inspect it. This isn’t the most pleasant experience so it’s usually best to choose a toilet that has a tank indicator.

3. Spare Parts

Ideally, your portable toilet won’t require much maintenance. It should be sturdy enough to deal with repeated use.

However, it will eventually start to wear down. In particular, the parts that see repeated use, such as the flusher, will undergo wear and tear.

Being able to buy replacement parts can be a huge money saver in these instances. You can replace the component rather than buying a new toilet.

Unfortunately, not all portable camping toilets have spare parts available. If this is the case, make sure you choose a model that offers a long guarantee.

4. The Chemicals

There are two types of chemicals that you’ll need for your toilet – pink and blue/green.

The pink chemicals go into the water that’s used to flush the toilet. They help to keep the bowl clean as they get rid of deposits when you flush. Usually, these chemicals come perfumed, which masks any unpleasant odours the toilet might produce. They also help to keep the toilet’s seals lubricated, which ensures they don’t break down through constant use.

You need blue/green cassette toilet chemicals for the waste tank. They break down whatever waste ends up in the tank, which prevents the build-up of noxious gases. This also helps to control the smell issue.

It’s also important to check these chemicals for formaldehyde. This is a toxic chemical that can cause damage to the environment. You will need to take care when emptying the toilet to ensure you don’t cause any damage. Thankfully, there are chemicals available that don’t contain formaldehyde.

You may need to buy your chemicals separately before you start using your toilet.

5. Toilet Paper

You’ll want to avoid using thick or luxury toilet paper with your chemical toilet. The padding in these papers makes them difficult to break down.

Most camping stores offer specially designed porta potti toilet paper instead. While this is thinner and less comfortable than luxury paper, it ensures that your toilet doesn’t get clogged.

The Final Word

The Thetford Porta Potti 365 Toilet may be the gold standard against which we measure all other portable camping toilets. Its large size makes it comfortable to use, plus its light weight makes it easy to transport.

However, it’s the various features related to waste disposal that make it stand out. You never have to deal with any waste manually thanks to the vent button and emptying spout.

It also has very few negatives. Just make sure you choose a piston flusher if young children or the elderly will use the toilet.

All what’s left is to buy the toilet for your next camping trip. Check Thetford and their products at Tentworld and don’t hesitate to contact us if you have any questions.

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I’ve been fly fishing in southern Virginia for more than 15 years and ever since I first started trolling with my dad from our small 50hp boat when I was 12, I’ve fished with a fish finder.

Picking out the best fish finder for small boats will not only help you find fish more effectively from smaller vessels but also locate and save key areas where fish could be hanging out in the future.

So, it will help you catch fish now, and you can also mark key spots on the river or lake. That way you can always come back and try those spots.

Quick Answer: Best Fish Finders For Small Boats

• 1. Humminbird Helix 5 Series
• 2. Humminbird Helix 7
• 3. Lowrance Hook 2 GPS
• 4. Joywee Phiradar
• 5. Lucky Portable Fish Finder

If you’re looking to find fish and locate habitat, then check out the article below. I’m going to go over some of the best small boat fish finders.

We also have a “Best Fish Finders Overall” article if you’re looking for all types of fish finders.

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What is a Fish Finder?

A fish finder is able to tell you several pieces of information that will be critical for helping you find and catch fish. It’s possible to fish without one, but it can make a world of difference.

Fish finders can tell you the depth of the water and the temperature, along with where the structure, bait fish, and game fish you’re after are. Plus, some different models also have GPS.

Types of Fish Finders

There are several different types of fish finders. Each has its own pros and cons, so you should do careful research before you purchase one, as it may not work well for your style.

So, below I’ll go over a few different kinds to help you figure out which one will work best for you. Check them out and then see which one you can best utilize.

Mountable

These are great because they come with a bracket that’s fixed onto the boat. However, the actual unit can be taken on and off. So, the next morning, it can easily be mounted back on.

This is great for travel or if you have your boat parked outside. You can now take off your electronics and keep them safe inside your house or your truck.

Fixed

If you have a boat that you know will be safe and secure, then a fixed fish finder will be fine. These are great because it’s just one less thing you have to worry about taking on and off the boat at the end of the day.

These are also great if you’ll be fishing in choppy conditions. Since it’s fixed onto the boat, it has a low likelihood of falling off from waves crashing and bouncing off the boat.

Portable

Portable fish finders are great for when you have a smaller boat or a kayak. These can be easily installed before getting to the lake, or right at the water’s edge.

The portability factor makes it easy to transfer to and from your boat and reduces weight. This is great when you’re fishing from a kayak or float tube that may have a weight limit.

Handheld

These are similar to portable fish finders. They can be very easy to travel with and can also be lighter, making them great for use on smaller boats that have a weight limit.

Typically, these aren’t as nice as some of the bigger units that you mount. However, I think you’ll find that these will capture all the information you need and help you catch more fish.

Castable

These are great for shore anglers. Since you’re not actually in the water, you can cast out the transmitter and see the depth, water temperature, and even if there are any fish below the transmitter.

You can also use this when fishing out on boats too. They’re typically not as efficient as some of the handheld models out there, but are a great option for a cheaper model.

When to Use a Fish Finder

You can use a fish finder whenever you want to. Since you can now utilize castable fish finders, anyone can go out to their favorite water and have some sort of idea of what the bottom of the lake looks like.

The only time you may not need one is when you’re floating a shallow or clear river. Typically the water depth will change rapidly, and the only thing you may need to know is the water temperature.

Do You Really Need a Fish Finder?

If you want to go fishing, then you don’t actually need a fish finder. You can find success without one by looking for lay downs and other structure that your naked eye is able to find.

However, it will make a world of difference if you use a fish finder. It can help you locate bait fish, humps, drop-offs, sunken structure, and even schools of game fish.

5 Best Fish Finders for Small Boats

Below, I’ll go over five different products. These are the best fish finders for smaller boats. Kayaks, jon boats, paddleboards, and all other small vessels will be able to utilize the products below.

Check them out and see which one will work the best for your fishing style. Each has its own pros and cons, so take a close look and figure out which one will be the best for you.

1. Humminbird Helix 5 Series

• Pros: Has sonar and comes with a transducer, great value
• Cons: Smaller screen, not as bright, older model

The Humminbird Helix 5 is a great overall fish finder. It can be mounted onto smaller boats and even comes with its own transducer. Setting it up is a breeze.

It has side imaging, down imaging, speed, and GPS. It comes with sonar, water temperature, and a depth indicator, meaning this isn’t just a barebones unit. But, it has everything you need to locate fish.

It comes in at a solid price point, so a beginner angler can purchase this and learn how to use a fish finder properly without having to spend too much on a unit.

Product Specifications

• 5 inch color display
• Dual beam sonar
• 4000 watts power output
• Comes with a transducer
• Broadband CHIRP
• Easy use and set up

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2. Humminbird Helix 7

• Pros: GPS and down imaging
• Cons: No SD card with loaded maps

If you’re looking to take the next step in purchasing a fish finder, then the Humminbird Helix 7 is a great option. It won’t break the bank but it has a solid price point, especially considering what it can do.

With down imaging, this unit can tell you exactly what’s beneath your boat. It’s ideal for fishing in deep lakes, rivers, or in salt water. You can easily tell the water temperature and the depth as well.

The device can give you coverage up to 125 feet, which is more than enough for most anglers out there. If you plan on taking this into really deep salt water, then maybe another unit would be better.

Product Specifications

• 7 inch screen
• Mega down imaging
• 125 feet depth
• Low Q CHIRP transducer
• Dual spectrum CHIRP
• Two display modes
• Includes transducer and mounting hardware

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3. Lowrance Hook 2 GPS

• Pros: Comes equipped with GPS and wide sonar coverage
• Cons: Can have issues with consistent depth readings

If you’re looking for a unit that has GPS capabilities, then this is the one for you. A GPS unit on your boat is great for when you’re fishing big water that may be new to you. This allows you to traverse the lake without getting lost.

The Lowrance Hook 2 is also very easy to use, which makes it ideal for someone who may be new to the world of fish finders. You can easily mount it, set it up, and learn to use it out on the water.

It gives you traditional CHIRP sonar, so you can tell if there is any structure below you. It also tells you the water temperature, depth, and if there are any schools of fish beneath your boat.

Product Specifications

• Auto tuning sonar
• Easy to use menu options
• Wide sonar coverage
• Easy setup
• Mount on transom, hull, or trolling motor
• GPS
• Transducer included in the package

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4. Joywee Phiradar

• Pros: Small and compact size, accurate depth readings
• Cons: Can be a pain to install and set up to a battery

If you’re looking for a great fish finder that can be used on a kayak, then this is the one for you. The Joywee Phiradar is small enough that it won’t add too much extra weight, which is important when kayak fishing.

Installation can be a bit of a pain, but once you have it set up and ready to go, then it’s fine. You can easily paddle around the lake on your kayak utilizing the great work this fish finder does.

It’s extremely accurate and outworks the price, making this another great deal. It’s perfect for someone who doesn’t want to drop a crazy amount of money on a fish finder.

Product Specifications

• 3.5 inch screen
• Depth reading from 1.8 to 900 feet
• Auto zoom tracking
• Bottom contour and temp readings
• Multi-language settings
• Big or small fish indicator
• Dual beam sonar frequency

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5. Lucky Portable Fish Finder

• Pros: Small and easy to use and transport
• Cons: Slow readings and no bells and whistles

For the price, the Lucky Portable Fish Finder is pretty incredible. Don’t expect too much, though, as this is a very barebones fish finder. It will tell you depth, water temp, and fish location. It seems the fish location can be slow sometimes, though.

This can be taken out in just about any type of watercraft you can think of and be utilized. So, if you don’t want to pull the trigger on something crazy expensive, then this is the one for you.

Ideally, this is best suited for a kayak. Since it’s so small and lightweight, it won’t take up much extra space in the boat. It’ll deliver all the essential information you need to catch more fish, but nothing more.

Product Specifications

• Portable
• Streamlined shape
• Real-time water depth
• Background light
• Fish detector
• 328 feet max depth
• Extremely easy to use

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Features of a Good Fish Finder (Particularly Those For Smaller Vessels)

Below, I’ll go over some of the best features of fish finder for small boats. Each has its own pros and cons, so think about what you want and then apply it to the list below.

GPS Integrated

Having GPS on your fish finder can be the ultimate game changer. Most of these have waypoint settings that will allow you to plot exactly where fish have been hanging out or where you think they will be.

It’s also great if you plan on fishing large waterways for the first time. This way you can easily plot your way back to shore or the boat ramp without getting lost.

Cone Angle

The cone angle is the sound generated by the transducer that works its way towards the bottom. The sound wave looks similar to an upside-down ice cream cone.

Some fish finders have a wider cone than others. The wider cone will allow you to see more of the bottom, thus allowing you to see more drop-offs, bait fish, or anything you may want to key in on.

Side Scan vs Down Scan

Side-scan gives you an image of what is on the sides of your boat. It shoots out an image a number of feet and allows you to see a lay down or brush pile that may be off to the side.

Down scan allows you to see directly beneath your boat. This is ideal when fishing in deep water, such as lakes or oceans. It’s especially effective if you plan on jigging beneath your boat.

Mounting Type

The mount type for your fish finder should depend on what type of boat you want to use. A small vessel would do well with one that can be removed or something that’s handheld.

Larger ships do well with fixed units. These are usually locked up and can’t be taken off without power tools and either lifting the boat out of the water or getting in the water to take them off.

Vessel Specific Fish Finders

If you have a small boat, then something that can be easily taken on and off would be great. Also, something small and lightweight would be best because smaller boats can’t handle as much weight.

Larger boats can handle much more weight, so 12 inch screens and large electronics won’t weigh down the boat. These are best when you’re using a larger ship.

Transducer

A good fish finder will have an even better transducer. The transducer will send and receive signals, and it acts as the heart of the echo sound system.

It changes electrical pulses into sound waves and then back again, so that the machine can accurately read what’s beneath the boat.

Display

The display of the fish finder depends on the size as well as the backlight. Some are made to be used in all different lighting conditions, from midnight darkness to the brightest of conditions in the middle of the day.

The size of the screen is also important. The bigger it is, the easier you’ll be able to spot different fish attractors or baitfish on the screen. You’ll need to find a screen that’s large enough to see but not too big to weigh down a smaller boat.

Frequency

Ultrasound frequency usually ranges from 15 kHz to 200 kHz. The majority of fish finders out there usually only have a range of 50 kHz to 200 kHz.

Some expensive or commercial fishing vessels may have a fish finder with a frequency that’s much higher. This isn’t needed for a recreational angler.

Some of My Favorite Fish Finder Brands

If you’d like to know who makes great small boat fish finders, then check out the section below. I cover several different brands that should meet your needs.

Take a close look at each brand before purchase, though. Each has its own pros and cons, and it could hinder your style of fishing if you purchase the incorrect one.

Humminbird

If you want to make the most out of your time on the water, then it’s hard to go wrong with a Humminbird. They have all of the high tech features needed to enhance your fishing experience.

It doesn’t matter what type of water or what type of boat you have. Humminbird makes a fish finder that will help you catch more fish.

Lowrance

One of the best-known names in the world of fishing electronics, Lowrance is regarded as one of the best companies out there in terms of producing high-quality fish finders.

It doesn’t matter the size, color, frequency, or cone angle. Lowrance creates a fish finder that will work perfectly for the style of fishing you plan on doing.

Joywee

Joywee is not a household name the way that Lowrance or Humminbird is. However, they make great fish finders that can be utilized by both professionals and amateurs.

Look to them if you want something that works well but won’t cost an arm and a leg to get. These are great for smaller vessels.

Lucky Fish Finders

Lucky fish finders are in the same vein as Joywee. This a newer company that makes great fish finders. They may not be well known, but they sure do work well.

Most of these are smaller and cheaper, making them ideal for anglers who may be new to the fish finder game and don’t want to spend too much. These are ideal for the angler who uses kayaks, canoes, or float tubes.

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Conclusion

Fish finders are a great way to get you out on the water and improve your chances of catching fish. There’s only so much your naked eye can see, and there’s so much beneath the surface.

The items above are a great start, but feel free to use them as a jumping-off point to help find the right fish finder for you and your way of fishing.

If you want more success on the water, then you need to be using a fish finder. It doesn’t matter by who or how big. As long as you have one, then you’ll catch more fish than you did before.