Turkey hunting is a trendy sport that involves the pursuit of wild turkeys. It is a sport that has weathered the dynamic tales of time and has become a time-honored tradition. I supposed that this sport dates to the Native Americans, and then even the European settlers took hunting turkeys to pass the time till it got embedded into their culture.

There are over 7 million wild turkeys in North America. Usually, many people engage in the hunt for turkeys in the fall, and some also believe it is a dying activity. It is practiced in the countries of North America, Mexico, and Canada, amongst many others.

One of the most important things to remember when going turkey hunting is identifying the various varieties. There are many types of wild turkeys, and some are meant to be hunted, and some aren’t, so if you have never hunted before or are an amateur hunter, you need to know how to differentiate between these species.

There is Hen, Jake Turkey, and Tom Turkey. The Tom turkey is also called Long Beard Turkey and Gobbler Turkey. Hens are female turkeys and have characteristics like being small, having dark brown and dull hued feathers, short tail feathers, and short leg length.

Jake and Tom are Male turkeys and are often very difficult to differentiate. Every turkey hunter has a different answer to how one differentiates between the Jake and Tom turkeys, so to answer this dilemma, we have compiled a list of various ways to differentiate between these two types of turkeys.

There is a fundamental difference before starting with the list: Jake is an immature male bird whose age would be one human year while a gobbler is a mature turkey of more than two human years.

It is vital to differentiate between them because it is illegal to shoot specific turkeys species in some countries, and no one wants to get on the wrong side of the law. This will often not be a legal rule, but some people feel guilty killing a young turkey and are uncomfortable about shooting them. There is nothing wrong with hunting either Tom or Long Beard, except when it is illegal if you are happy with your decision.

Moving forward, when you can plan the type of turkey in front of you, it all comes down to the turkey’s looks and behavior. From beards, tail feathers to the color of the head, gobbles, and behavior, these factors help determine These types to differentiate between Jake Turkey and the Long Beard Turkey.

Below is a list of all the differences and explanations for them to understand Jake Turkey’s characteristics and the Gobbler Turkey.

Turkey Beards

Turkey Beards is a key identifier. It also helps one distinguish between females and males. The Hens have dark brown breast feathers while the males have black breast feathers.

In the males, Jake Turkey has short beards of about 2 to 3 inches, while the Long Beard Turkey has beards of the length up to 10 inches, which is also the cause of its name. Often the Long Beard Turkeys also have multiple beards showing their maturity.

Only Long Beard Turkeys don’t need to host multiple beards, but only rarely will you run across a Jake Turkey with multiple beards, while a Hen Turkey might also have a beard. The beard of a Hen Turkey will usually be very wispy and short. Many regulations permit you to hunt Turkeys with beards.

Tail Fan

Another common identifier is the Tail Fans. During the summer, Jake Turkey molts and then starts to lose its feathers. Almost all feathers get shed except for the ones in the region of the beard and the central tail feathers, thus resulting in the central tail feathers being above the rest of the fan when the rest of the feathers grow back in.

This extra length causes the fan to look uneven and awkward, which can be seen prominently when the turkey walks around. In the turkey’s second summer, it sheds all its feathers, so they grow back uniformly.

This shows a sign of maturity, so only Gobbler Turkeys will have a uniform tail fan while Jake Turkey will have an uneven and awkward fan. Sometimes, due to forests’ wild nature, even a Gobbler Turkey might have an uneven fan because of losing a few feathers to predators. Still, on looking closely, the unevenness will not be as much as Jake Turkey’s.

Head Colour

Tom Turkeys and Jake Turkeys typically have the same head colors and are a lot different from those of their female counterparts, but there is a slight difference between their heads during the spring breeding season.

Jake Turkey has a paler hue to their usual red and blue heads during this season, while Tom Turkey has a vibrant array of red shades and blue shades to their usual head color.

These vibrant colors help in attracting mates. Some white spots on their head are also found, making it easy to differentiate between the two turkeys during the hunt for the mature turkey bird.

Turkey Spurs

Turkey Spurs are also one of the common ways hunters differentiate between Jake Turkeys and Long Beard Turkeys. It helps determine the age accurately. Jake Turkeys have short and conical spurs that are slightly rounder.

Their spurs are around half an inch in length. On the other hand, a Long Beard Turkey has slightly longer spurs that are straight and pointed. They are longer than half an inch in length. As the Turkeys grow older, their spurs get more curved and hooked in form.

Gobbles

Gobbles are an identifier that requires patience and complete silence. It requires the hunter to use their hearing skills to their best as it is based on the kind of gobble the turkey in front is producing.

Gobbler Turkeys give a long, loud, and very good gobble, and in comparison to that, a gobble produced by a Jake Turkey is much softer and shorter and often not as good. If you are in a position where a Jake Turkey is making gobble sounds with the Gobbler Turkeys, you will probably be able to see the difference.

Jake Turkey’s gobble sounds like the noise that fellow hunters will be made to blend into the environment, while the gobble of a Gobbler Turkey is loud and like a response to the Death Valley Box call.

Behavior

Complimenting the animal kingdom’s general assumption, the older turkeys are more aggressive and loud compared to their younger flock. The Long Beard Turkeys are much more forward and louder in their behavior than the Jack Turkeys, which is why if a Jake Turkey is in the presence of a Long Beard Turkey, then it might not even strut near it.

Although this does not apply to the time when there is a group of Jake Turkeys, they are bolder when teamed up against a single Long Beard Turkey. In hunting, one must be aware of such nuances and decoy strategies.

A weaker, long beard may be more willing to approach hen decoys if there is no other male decoy around, while more robust, more aggressive gobblers may come running in to kick your jake decoys out of town.

All these identifiers are essential, but none of them apply solely individually. They need to be utilized with the complete sense and awareness of the hunter other identifiers’ backingers. Ensure all the conditions before you pull a trigger because a blunder like this cannot be rectified.

Often a hen might be bearded, or a Long Beard Turkey has no spurs or has an irregular fan, while a Jake Turkey might produce a gobble loud and long.

It is essential to be utterly aware while hunting because one is prone to accidents, including injuring a bird that is illegal to hunt or shooting a fellow hunter who was imitating the bird calls with a red and blue hat.

Turkey Hunting is a fun sport that many families enjoy, so to have a hearty experience, make sure you understand all the points carefully and then go into the field.

Tips for Blood Trailing Deer…and Finding Them

Let’s imagine it’s deer season and you just shot a deer. Maybe your first. Great news, right? The bad news is you didn’t see or hear it fall. Now you have an agonizing dilemma on your hands and an important decision to make. Do you climb down and take up the deer blood trail right away or give the deer more time to expire? Your decision may impact whether you find the deer or not. So before you start blood trailing deer, especially if it’s your first time doing so, here are some important questions you need to answer.

• How did the deer react? Was it running instead of bounding? Was it stumbling and crashing through the underbrush instead of jumping over it? Those are both usually good signs.
• How did you feel about the shot? Were you shaking from nerves, or were you very calm and relaxed?
• How were the weather conditions? High winds can affect arrows and bullets alike and may steer them off-course.

Difference Between Archery and Firearms

First, there are some key differences with blood trailing deer between bow hunting and using a firearm.

• Looking at the blood color and consistency is easier in many ways when bow hunting. Usually, your arrow is still at the site of impact (assuming it passed through the deer). You can inspect the blood on the arrow to get a better idea of where you shot a deer. Also, bow hunting relies on the broadhead cutting a large surface area so that the deer will bleed out quickly, and so it generally leaves a lot of evidence.
• On the other hand, you can’t exactly find a bullet to inspect it after you shoot, so you will need to look at the blood on the ground or surrounding vegetation instead. Firearms rely on trauma and shock to kill an animal, and sometimes leaves less of a blood trail, especially if the bullet doesn’t pass all the way through. Although if you hit it low (in the case of a heart shot) and it comes out the other side, there should be no shortage of a blood trail.

In my experience, you will typically find a better blood trail when bow hunting than when rifle hunting. Another benefit of bow hunting deer is that you can use lighted nocks to help pinpoint where you hit. Instead of a typical nock on the end of your arrow, lighted nocks turn on when you shoot, leaving a bright light trail for your eyes to follow. Even in the daylight, lighted nocks help you see exactly where you hit a deer, based on where the light blinks out on the deer’s body. It’s even more pronounced in dimmer conditions.

Blood Color, Consistency, and Pattern

Looking at the color and consistency of any blood you find (on the ground, vegetation, or your arrow) can help you make the right decision when blood trailing deer. Depending on which organ your arrow or bullet penetrates, the blood color, consistency, and pattern will be different. Here’s a rough sketch of the various organs for a visual picture.

When it comes to reading the deer sign and figuring out how to blood trail a deer, here are some different scenarios you’re likely to encounter. In addition to your weapon, make sure you carry some basic tracking gear with you, such as a compass, some flagging tape/toilet paper, a knife, a drag rope, and a flashlight (if it will be dark).

Rich, bright red, and sprayed on the vegetation or ground…

You very likely made a heart shot. If you’ve waited the minimum 20 minutes, the deer almost certainly died 19 minutes ago. Proceed following the blood trail slowly.

Bright reddish pink and frothy…

That should be a lung shot. In many cases, heart and lung shots can be combined, and this is obviously a very fatal shot. While the deer is likely already dead, you may have only clipped one lung depending on the angle of the shot. I tend to wait another 15 minutes before taking up the trail when I see bubbles, as you can see in the photo below.

Dark red or maroon colored and watery…

This might indicate a liver shot. A liver shot deer is still going to die, but you need to wait a while longer – plan on another two hours to be safe. Either climb back into your tree stand or sneak back out and return non-essential hunting gear to your vehicle while you wait.

Brown/yellow/green, watery, and putrid-smelling…

This is never a good sign. You likely hit the deer in the intestines or stomach (called a “gut shot” or “paunch shot”). Shooting a deer in the guts will still probably be fatal (deer usually die from septic shock), but if you want any hope of finding that deer, back out quietly and return several hours later. Most wounded deer will bed down within 150-200 yards, and as long as you don’t push them, they should stay (and die) there too.

If there’s no rain in the forecast (which would ruin the blood trail) and the weather is cold enough (so the meat wouldn’t spoil), consider letting it go overnight before you start blood trailing deer. There’s a risk here if you live where the coyote or wolf population is high, and you may find a half-eaten deer in the morning. On the other hand, if you track a deer before it expires, you will likely jump them from their bed and may never see it again. In some cases, it may make more sense to just back out and cross your fingers.

Red and heavy at the site of impact, but slows to drops quickly afterward…

This is likely a muscle shot. You probably hit the neck or the front leg. It tends to bleed heavily at first, but it clots up and produces only thin droplets from there on, which usually dribble down right within the tracks. This is one time you can take a calculated risk. If you continue to pursue this deer quickly, the wound may continue to bleed. Whereas if you let this deer lie in a bed, it may clot up and you won’t be able to follow it any further. It’s risky, but worth the risk with marginally-fatal shots.

Blood Trailing Deer

If you judge the situation correctly, you can have a much easier tracking job ahead of you. But there are never guarantees, so don’t get complacent. Even if you see lots of frothy, bright red blood, you should still take your time tracking the deer, and keep your eyes up to scan ahead. With any luck, you’ll find it just a short ways down the trail. Then you can feel the emotions that come with tracking a deer and walking up to it for the first time.

The last step is getting it back home and preparing some delicious venison meals with the animal you successfully hunted and tracked. And that makes the experience that much more meaningful.

There’s a reason why many hunters cite spring turkey hunting as their favorite pursuit of all. It’s because one encounter with a raucous, king-of-the-woods gobbler as it’s coming into your calls will make your knees knock and your heart lurch.

But turkeys have eyesight sharp as cut glass and are more wary than whitetails, so stalking one is difficult to impossible. Indeed, to have success this spring, you’ve got to know how to call one in. While master turkey callers spend a lifetime perfecting the craft and have dozens of various calling skills available in their repertoire, here are a few basic calls with which all turkey hunters should begin.

Calling turkeys consists of two main elements: Knowing how to make a specific call, and then knowing when to make it. For now, let’s focus on three basic calls, each of which is demonstrated in the video embedded above.

Locator CallsLocator calls aren’t calls that mimic turkeys; rather they are imitative sounds of other animals that challenge a gobbler’s dominance and spur them into gobbling—such as owls, crows, woodpeckers, hawks and others. When an owl hoots at dawn, for example, an old boss gobbler can’t stand it, so he’ll often gobble back at the owl to let him know who’s boss. (Or at least this is what we think is going on in a turkey’s brain.) This stimulus/response mechanism in springtime gobblers is nearly automatic, meaning that no matter how many times an owl hoots (or a crow crows, or a woodpecker cries) the gobbler nearly always answers back. And when he answers, he gives away his position so an astute hunter can move in on him and formulate a plan of attack.

So, all turkey hunters should know how to make an owl call. I can make the sound by blowing air through my hands or just with my voice, but I prefer a store-bought owl call because I can use it while wearing gloves-and it’s much louder than my voice alone. I like the Big Hooter Owl Call made by Hunter’s Specialties/HS Strut, because it’s loud and easy to blow. (HS also makes an instructional DVD on turkey calling, and I highly recommend it).

The Call: Owl HootUsing a tremendous amount of air pressure by filling up your lungs, blow into the call with short, powerful bursts of air. After you purchase a call, click here to learn how owl calls sound, or better yet, spend time in the woods at dawn and dusk, and listen to the call of a barred owl. Then try to mimic the owl’s nine-syllable call that sounds like “Who-cooks—for-you; Who-cooks—for—you-all?

When to CallGobblers respond best to owl calls in the morning just before dawn, while they’re still roosted in trees. So if you’re not sure if a gobbler is nearby, sneak to the edge of the woods or other vantage and rip off a loud hoot. If there’s a gobbler within a couple hundred yards, he should answer. If he does, make note of exactly where the sound came from; you have just located a gobbler! If one doesn’t gobble, move a couple hundred yards to another location and try it again. You can use an owl hooter—often with success—anytime of the day to locate gobblers. So keep it handy and use it often.

Hen CallsFemale adult turkeys, or hens, make many types of calls including clucks, purrs, putts, cutts and others. But the staple call they use to attract a potential mate is called the yelp.

The Call: YelpA yelp is a series of short, high-pitched sounds that a hen uses to call to its clutch, other hens and to gobblers in an effort to find a mate. The sound can be made with a box call, a slate call, a mouth call (also called a diaphragm call) and others. But for beginners, I recommend the slate call (also called a pot call), like this one made by Zink Calls. Less expensive slate calls are readily available from Primos, Hunters Specialties, Knight & Hale and other callmakers.

The call consists of about 9 to 12 two-note yelps that, when made in a rhythmic series, sound somewhat like “yyyyeeee-elp, yyyeeee-eelp, yyeeee-eelp, yeeeelp, yeeeelp, yeelp, yelp, yelp, yelp, yelp.” Start by placing pressure on the striker upon an edge of the slate call, then drawing the stiker swiftly about an inch to the middle, then making a circle with the striker so the sound can be quickly and rhythmically repeated.

Because it’s virtually impossible to teach a new caller how to make sounds via written words, again, it’s best to watch one of the many online instructional videos on call makers’ websites or on YouTubeto actually hear the tone and cadence of a yelp. Or, you can sit in the woods and listen to actual hens and try to mimic them. However, the cadence and knowing when to call is more important than the exact tone, because all hens sound a little different; some are raspy and may have a shorter series of yelps while others are more high pitched.

When to YelpIn the springtime woods when the sun is up and birds have flown to the ground from their roosts, there is really no bad time to yelp. A yelp tells other turkeys, “hey, I’m over here”; and/or “why don’t you guys come over here?” It also says to a prospective gobbler, “Hey big boy, you sound cute. Are you looking for a date? Come on over here.”

So, a yelp can be used to entice a gobbler to gobble. Then, when a gobbler responds, a series of yelps is best used to attract the gobbler within shotgun range.

If a gobbler begins coming to you after you yelp, you should use the yelp call sparingly. Afterall, if a gobbler is coming to you, he’s doing what you want him to; calling more might make him change what he’s doing. Again, yelp sparingly, because sometimes an old gobbler can be attracted to a hen that plays a little hard to get.

Remember, if you’re calling to a gobbler and it chooses to be silent as it comes in, you may not know it’s coming. But rest-assured it is looking for the maker of the calls (you!), so it’s critical that you remain as still as possible. One movement—even a slight move of the head or a hand that swats a mosquito—will likely cause the gobbler to flee. And for this reason, when using a pot call, it’s best to keep the movement of your hand as it moves the striker concealed behind your knees or other objects such as foliage.

The Call: CluckWhen hens aren’t alone, lost or asking their family or a gobbler to “come over here,” they constantly make little clucks and purring sounds as they feed and when they’re content. If you’ve ever heard a flock of chickens feeding in a barnyard, you’ll notice that all of them make many clucks, purrs and putt sounds most all of the time. So do turkeys. Clucks convey to other turkeys that “all is good,” and “this grub is good, sister. All is well.”

While clucks sound subtle to us, gobblers hear them well and make them comfortable. If a gobbler thinks hens are around, it would sound weird to him—even alarming—if no natural clucks are coming from the hens. So hunters should learn a basic cluck that can be used to calm and attract gobblers.

To make a cluck, simply place pressure on the striker toward the middle of the pot call, then draw it firmly and swiftly about a half inch across the slate so it makes a very soft sounding “cluck” noise. Again, the best way to learn the cluck is to listen to audio of a cluck. A cluck is not so much to call in another bird, but rather a noise made by a turkey out of contentment, almost as a cat purrs. But because turkeys are gregarious animals, other turkeys can hear that content and be attracted to it. So you should know it.

When to CluckAnytime you’re set up in the woods and ready to see or hear a turkey is a good time to cluck. Mainly, however, clucks should be used randomly between series of yelps to let nearby turkeys know the following: 1. A hen or a group of hens are nearby; 2. They’re very comfortable, relaxed and probably feeding; and 3. they can come on over if they want.

Often some simple clucking—rather than loud raucous yelping—can soothe shy gobblers and convince them to come in even if perhaps they don’t feel like actually breeding at the moment. Unlike yelping, it’s difficult to cluck too much, provided you keep your clucking very soft and subtle.

Like any instrument that produces sound, turkey calling requires practice to make the sounds perfectly, every time, and while your adrenaline surges. Then you should know when to use them, and when to use restraint not to overcall. With time and experience, you can become a master that few gobblers can resist. But expect to send a few running the opposite direction in the process.

In the vast expanse of the animal kingdom, power is often exemplified not just by size or speed but by the sheer force of an animal’s bite. This force, a lethal combination of anatomy and strength, defines an apex predator’s ability to capture and consume prey, assert dominance, and even defend territory.

Among the impressive list of creatures with formidable jaws, the lion, often dubbed the ‘King of Beasts,’ holds a respectable position. But where exactly does this majestic big cat stand in the rankings of the strongest bite forces in the animal world?

What is Bite Force, Exactly?

At its core, bite force is a measure of the pressure exerted by an animal’s jaws when biting down. Think of it like the pressure one might feel when pressing down on something using one’s hand, but in the case of animals, particularly with powerful jaws, this pressure is exponentially greater and can be the difference between life and death in the wild.

This force is often measured in units called PSI (pounds per square inch) or kg/cm², which gives an understanding of how much force is applied over a particular area.

Several factors play a crucial role in determining an animal’s bite force. The jaw structure is paramount; the mechanical advantage provided by the length and shape of the jaws, along with the placement of the teeth, can significantly impact bite power. Next, muscle power is essential.

Strong, robust muscles surrounding the jaw allow for a more forceful clampdown. Finally, the teeth anatomy complements bite force. In lions, for instance, their long and sharp canine teeth are designed to pierce and hold, while their carnassial teeth at the back help in shearing flesh off the bone.

The Lion’s Bite Force: Numbers and Comparisons

When it comes to raw power, the lion’s bite force is a force to be reckoned with. Adult male lions have a bite force that averages around 650 PSI (or approximately 45.86 kg/cm²). To put this in perspective, it’s a force more than enough to crush a human skull or snap a spine. However, as with many things in nature, everything is relative.

Compared to other animals, especially other big cats, the lion’s bite isn’t the strongest, but it’s specifically adapted for its hunting needs and lifestyle. For example, the jaguar, renowned for its ability to pierce through skulls and turtle shells, has a bite force even stronger than that of a lion.

To offer a clearer picture, let’s compare the lion’s bite force with other big cats and notable African savannah predators:

Comparison Table: Bite Force Among Various Animals

It’s evident from the table that while the lion’s bite is formidable, some animals, particularly the crocodile and jaguar, possess even more powerful jaws. However, it’s crucial to remember that bite force is only one aspect of an animal’s hunting and defensive capabilities.

Anatomy Behind the Bite

A closer look at the lion’s anatomy reveals why it possesses such a powerful bite. The lion’s skull is robust, with a broad muzzle providing ample space for large jaw muscles. The temporalis and masseter muscles, primarily responsible for the up and down movement of the jaw, are well-developed in lions, allowing them to exert immense pressure when they bite.

Furthermore, a lion’s canine teeth, measuring up to 10 cm in length, are not just for show. These sharp, conical teeth are designed to pierce deeply into the flesh, effectively clamping onto prey. Once the lion has a firm grip, its powerful neck muscles come into play, allowing it to drag or even suffocate larger prey.

Behind the canines, the carnassial teeth play a critical role. These are specialized molars and premolars that work like scissors, cutting flesh as the lion chews, ensuring that meat is sheared off the bone and consumed efficiently.

All these anatomical adaptations combined, from the skull structure to the muscle placement and teeth design, make the lion’s bite a potent tool, tailored for its life in the wild.

Why is a Strong Bite Crucial for Lions?

A potent bite is more than just a show of strength for lions; it’s a survival tool. In the unforgiving landscapes of the African savannah and the limited regions of India where Asiatic lions reside, every hunt counts.

A lion’s strong bite ensures it can efficiently penetrate the thick hides of its prey, typically large ungulates like wildebeest or zebra. Once the lion latches onto its prey, the bite force aids in suffocating it, a common technique employed by these big cats.

Beyond hunting, a robust bite plays a crucial role in the social dynamics of lion prides. Males frequently spar for dominance and control over a pride, and in these disputes, displaying a powerful bite can be a deterrence or a weapon.

Additionally, territorial clashes between different prides or nomadic lions can get fierce, with bite force playing a significant role in establishing dominance and securing territories.

Bite Force vs. Killing Technique

While the bite force of a lion is certainly impressive, it’s only a part of the equation when it comes to hunting success. Lions, unlike some other big cats, often rely on teamwork and strategy. Once prey is isolated and ambushed, lions use their weight and strength to knock it down.

The actual killing technique usually involves suffocating the prey by biting down on its throat or sometimes its mouth and nose, cutting off air supply. This method contrasts, for instance, with jaguars that employ their superior bite force to pierce the skull or brain of their prey, ensuring a quick kill.

Similarly, cheetahs, despite having a weaker bite force compared to lions, rely on their unmatched speed and agility to chase down prey, using their bite to strangle and incapacitate.

It’s evident that while bite force is a significant factor, the technique and strategy employed are just as crucial, if not more, in determining hunting success.

Frequently Asked Questions

Learn More About Lions

• Lion: Characteristics, Diet, Facts & More [Fact Sheet]
• Lion Teeth: Nature’s Deadly Arsenal
• Lion vs. Elephant: Interactions & Confrontations of Two Heavyweights
• Lion vs. Crocodile: Confronting Two of Nature’s Titans
• Mountain Lion vs. Lion: Main Differences & Who Would Win a Fight?
• Lion vs. Lioness – How Do They Differ and What Are Their Roles in The Pride?
• Komodo Dragon vs. Lion: Detailed Comparison & Who Would Win a Fight?
• Lion Sleep Patterns: How Many Hours Do Lions Sleep?
• Are White Lions Real? Do They Occur in the Wild?
• Rhino vs. Lion: A Colossal Confrontation

Tired of leaky waders? In this guide, I’ll show you how to repair breathable waders, so you can get back on the water in no time.

After a heavy 2021 of fly fishing, my Simms waders developed a leak in the neoprene bootie. It is one of those miserable feelings standing in the water and feeling the cold water creep in.

The good news was that I had wool socks so it wasn’t too cold but my whole right leg was soaked.

Many people would send them back to the manufacturer but I had heard stories about how long Simms was taking to repair waders. People were telling me that they were going to have to wait months before Simms would repair their waders.

I had repaired a pair of GoreTex Simm’s waders before that I cut open on a rock so I knew how to fix the legs, but I didn’t really know how to fix the bootie-or if that was even possible.

As it turns out, Simms does not recommend repairing the booties at the seam. So, if you have a leak in the seam, you are better off sending it for them to put on new booties.

My hole appeared to be in the big toe area and nowhere near the seam, so I gave it a try. Low and behold, it worked perfectly.

A fishing friend of mine is sitting on several pairs of leaking waders because he won’t try to fix them himself. Well, to be honest, he tried once, and it didn’t turn out well for him or the waders. I think he’s waiting on me to offer to do it for him.

So, if you find yourself in the same situation, here are the steps I took:

Identify The Leak

There are a few ways to identify leaks. One way is to turn your waders inside out. Put rubbing alcohol into a spray bottle and spray the legs of the waders, seat area, and chest. Basically, any place you want to check for leaks.

Holes show up as a little black dot.

Circle those dots with a magic marker.

Another way is to fill the waders with water. However, Simms cautions that you should not fill the entire wader all the way to the top but only as high as the knee area. Anything more and you risk damaging your waders because of the weight of the water can rip seams. In my case, I could see that the neoprene was worn right near my big toe.

In my research, I discovered that the big toe was one area that was frequently damaged by rubbing or large toenails.

Rips and tears are pretty obvious. In my case, I could easily see through my waders to know I had worn away the neoprene in the bootie.

Get Yourself Some Aquaseal And Patches

Aquaseal will be your friend.

This rubber cement-type product is highly recommended by wader companies for repairs. It is durable and flexible and works on waders, neoprene wetsuits, and dry bags for repairs that last.

Simms and Aquaseal offer wader repair kits that include Tenacious Tape patches to make the repairs more precise and permanent. I highly suggest getting these kits because everything you need is right in the kit.

Be Patient And Build Layers.

The key to using Aquaseal is to make sure you don’t glob it on all at one time, but you put build it up in layers. I just used a little bit at first over the worn area. I went a little larger than the worn area and let it dry overnight.

Let the area cure.

The next day, I put a little more on and let that dry. I did this for about 3 days straight.

By the end, the Aquaseal glue had dried nicely, and I tested the bootie again by filling it up with water and it held.

Don’t Do It All At One Time

My friend who is waiting for me to do his wader repairs can be impatient at times.

So, he put Aquaseal on all the black dots that he saw, turned the waders over and somehow the legs got stuck together. I recommend that you do one leg at a time, or the front or the back at a time, let it dry and switch.

Don’t let the legs touch while the glue is still wet, or you will be like my friend and have a pair of Simms G4’s where the legs are glued to each other.

Test Your Repair

There is nothing worse than having ice-cold water steep into your waders on a cold winter day on the river. So, test your repair.

If you can fill your waders with water because your repair is below the knee, test them by filling them up to the knee. That’s how I tested my booties.

If they are above the knee, then spray the alcohol again on your waders and look for the black dots.

The good news was that using the technique above, I now have a dry pair of waders and it only took a few days to repair. If you have the time, most wader companies will offer to do repairs. You will have to be patient. Or you can give it a try and do it yourself.

One pro tip that I read says to store your Aquaseal in the freezer.

When you want to use it, put it in warm water to heat up. I can’t tell you if this works or not because I just put it in a Ziploc bag and put it in the freezer. I haven’t needed to use it since my initial repair.

Good luck and hope to see you on the river!

In my opinion, a big mule deer buck is one of the hardest animals on earth to kill with a bow. They don’t have regular patterns like a whitetail; their eyes, ears and nose are superb. They usually hang with a group of other bachelor bucks, and together they employ a strategic method of bedding with somebody facing in every direction. They almost never drink in the daylight, rendering them all but impossible to ambush over water. And they don’t like to be disturbed: bump them once, and they’ll move to a different location or go nocturnal.

Muley bucks do have a couple weaknesses though: food and romance. And in some specific locations they like to bed in big, wide-open territory. That can put them in a stalk-able position. Let’s look at those three chinks in a buck’s armor and see if we can put an arrow through one of them.

Spot-and-StalkProbably the most respected method of hunting in the West, spotting and stalking can be exciting, adrenaline-ridden and effective. The above-timberline habitat of Colorado or Nevada and the broken high-plains badlands of Wyoming or the Dakota’s can be ideal for spotting and stalking big muley bucks with stick and string.

But spot-and-stalk methods can also be frustrating, physically extreme and futile. For instance, the mule deer where I live never bed in open stalk-able areas. They climb atop mesas and bed in thick pinyon/juniper forests. It’s impossible to spot them, and just as hard to stalk them.

To kill a big spot-and-stalk buck, you’ll first need to spot him, then put him to bed, and then stalk close enough for a shot. Let’s look at the process in detail.

1. Spot Climb a high vantage point and let your binoculars do the walking. You’ll be glassing up to a couple miles distant, so use premium optics. Once you spot bucks, study them through a spotting scope to determine if there’s a shooter buck amongst the group. Try to get to know the bucks while you watch them: How many are there? What are their habits? What is their pecking order? There’s always one schizophrenic buck in the gang; figure out who he is and avoid him. Most of all, figure out how the big boys move in relation to the group: Do they like to bed above, below, in the middle or to the side? The answers to these questions will dictate whether a buck is killable or not.

2. Put Your Buck to Bed. Early-season bucks usually feed for a few minutes up to several hours before heading to their morning beds. Spot them now, but don’t make a move. Watch as they work their way to a bedding area and lie down. You need to stay put a little longer though; most of the time a buck will bed—often, but not always, in the sun—for about 45 minutes to an hour, and then he’ll get up and move to a different bed in the shade. That’s when you make your move. Watch him for 15 minutes or so to be sure he’s settled in, and then go. You’ll have roughly three to five hours before he gets up to relieve himself and eat a midday snack.

3. Stalk in Close. While you’re waiting for the buck to settle in for the day, you need to strategize your approach. Figure out what the wind is doing at the buck’s location. Plan an approach route, and locate landmarks to keep you on track. Everything looks different when you’re on location than it does from a distance, so study it well, and then make your move. Ditch your shoes and pack while you close the last 100 yards, sneaking in on just your socks.

If you’ve planned and executed successfully, you’ll either be able to arrow the buck in his bed or set up downwind of the buck. Get comfortable and stay ready—ideally you should be able to see at least his antler tips. It may be several hours until he gets up. When you see him swivel his head a couple times, get ready. His antlers will swoop down and forward as he begins to get up—that’s when you draw your bow. You’ll have a few seconds to squeeze off the shot before he busts you and heads for the next county.

Hunt the RutWhen a big muley buck has romance on his mind he disregards all else, becoming very vulnerable. It’s the reason that there are almost no public land rifle hunts during the rut, and precious few archery hunts. Big bucks forget all their hard-earned survival tactics, charge around during all hours of the day and will look right at you and then go back to chasing tail. Peak rut in most locals happens in late November and early December, and a little research can turn up hunting seasons in various states. It’s a great time to hunt big muley bucks with a bow. Here’s what to do:

1. Shadow Doe Families. Mule deer bucks travel from doe family to doe family, looking for a group that’s coming into estrous. When he finds one, he’ll stay with them until they’re serviced (usually several days), then he’ll hit the road in search of another party. Your best tactic right now is to find does—lots of them—then stand by for a big boy to show up. Sneak in and set up downwind of the group and wait until he offers a shot.

2. Set Up on Travel Routes. As mentioned above, big bucks move a lot during the rut. I once watched a big rutty buck cover over a mile in less than fifteen minutes, checking three families of does along the way. Find a ridge-top saddle, pinch-point or natural funnel and set up downwind of it, much like you’d set up to hunt whitetail. If you’ve got doe groups on both sides of your position, you’re golden. Wait all day, especially if the weather is cool and/or overcast.

3. Rattle. Muleys don’t rattle up as readily as whitetails do, but if the timing is right, they’ll come in. Try getting within 150 yards downwind of a big buck and his does, and make like a couple rival bucks battling it out. You can also rattle to traveling bucks, giving the impression of two bucks fighting over hot does—you just might get lucky.

AmbushSuccessfully bushwhacking a big muley buck is all but impossible under ordinary circumstances. They’re just too nomadic. I’ve sat on a ridge top and watched the same bachelor bucks enter a 90-acre alfalfa field ten different ways in ten different days. That said, in my home turf, spot-and-stalk methods are next to impossible, and the rut happens months after the bowhunt is over, so the big bucks I’ve killed with a bow have all been ambushed. Here’s how to make it happen.

1. Bottlenecks. Though rare in good muley habitats, bottlenecks do exist. Case-in-point: one meadow I sometimes watch is bordered by a creek and has a sandstone point jutting alongside. The deer’s favorite bedding area is opposite that creek and point. The only way for them to get there is across the creek, past a huge ponderosa pine, and around the point. Sit there long enough and you’ll kill a buck. Another good place might be in a narrow ridge-top saddle between feeding and bedding areas. Just remember, mule deer go where the wind blows them, so the situation and terrain must be significant to create an effective ambush.

2. Attractants. Sometimes the only way to get within archery range of a mule deer buck is to hunt over something he wants pretty badly, such as a good acorn patch, a mineral lick or an apple tree near an old homestead. Those spots are few and hard to find, but if you locate one, you might see an old warrior compromise his safety for a nibble of his favorite treat. That’ll give you a chance to turn him into your favorite venison treat.

3. Decoy. I’ve seen it work one time; the biggest buck any of my clients ever killed came to a decoy. He fed in a large meadow each night, leaving well before dawn each day. My brother was guiding, and just couldn’t get the hunter and the buck within the same zip code. Then one day he had a flash of brilliance and set our 3-D buck target in the meadow near the client’s blind. That old savvy buck saw the decoy from clear across the meadow and came to investigate. He ended up gross scoring 196 and some change. I’m not saying a decoy will work every time, or even often. But it worked on the biggest bow-killed buck I’ve seen on the ground.

Still-HuntingStill-hunting deserves an honorable mention in this article, especially if you’re simply hunting any buck. Slipping your way very slowly through good deer habitat can provide a fun way to spend your midday, teach you a lot about your hunting area and even offer a shot opportunity. Just be sure to keep the wind in your face and move slowly as cold molasses, picking cover apart with your binocular. “One step, two looks” is a good mantra. Spot a buck, and your adventure morphs into a spot-and-stalk event.

The Super Slam of North American Big Game 29 is the ultimate quest for a big game hunter. Are you that hunter who has what it takes? The Super Slam of North American Big Game takes serious dedication and years to accomplish. First, a hunter must register the legal taking of 29 big game animals native to North America. The official archives are kept through the Grand Slam Club/Ovis (GSCO). A hunter must register with GSCO, pay the $25 membership fee and submit the trophy hunt online. The membership and submission of your trophy hunt can be found here:

SLAMQUEST

Here is a list of big-game animals for the Super Slam on North American Big Game 29 and the hunts we have available.

North American Big Game 29 Species

Alaska Brown Bear –

• The Alaska brown bear is the largest bear in the world, larger than brown bears of Europe and the grizzly bear. Brown bears in Alaska live off of a protein-rich salmon diet and can be found along the Alaska coast and near spawning salmon runs.

Alaska Brown Bear Hunt

Black Bear –

• The Black bear is found in the western United States and has the largest population of any bear in the world. Black bears are found in Alaska, Canada, Florida and Gulf Coast areas.

Black Bear Hunts

Grizzly Bear –

• The grizzly bear is found in a range of areas in North America but the largest populations of grizzlies are seen in Alaska and Canada. Grizzlies like to wander and can kill animals as large as a moose; however, these bears eat a lot of berries, roots, nuts and different types of grasses to survive.

Grizzly Bear Hunts

Polar Bear –

• The polar bear populations are mainly found in the southern part of Hudson Bay and James Bay in Canada. They can be seen on the shores and pack ice of the Arctic Ocean. Polar bears spend years out on the ice but the pregnant females will come ashore to den.

Cougar –

• The cougar is a solitary, silent large cat and are entirely carnivorous. It has many common names such as mountain lion, panther and puma. They are the second-largest cat in the western hemisphere and only North American cougars are allowed to take for the Super Slam quest.

Cougar Hunts

Columbia Blacktail Deer –

• Columbia Blacktail Deer are found in the North American Pacific Coast region to the southern part of Monterey County of California. These deer have similarities to the mule and Sitka deer but can be distinguished by antlers, overall coloration and tail.

Coues Deer –

• Coues deer are found in southwestern Arizona and a little bit of New Mexico. They are often called little desert dwelling siblings of the whitetail deer. Top End Adventures offers a few Coues deer hunts.

Coues Deer Hunts

Mule Deer –

• Mule deer are found all over in the western United States, western Canada and adapt to a wide range of habitats. Bucks can range from 150 – 300 lbs and will migrate to the high mountainous country by themselves to lower ranges during the winter to avoid deep snow levels.

Mule Deer Hunts

Sitka Blacktail Deer –

• Sitka Blacktail deer are located in the wet coastal rain forests of north-coastal British Columbia and Southeast Alaska. Averaging from 90-120lbs, this subspecies of mule deer is the most common deer in Alaska.

Whitetail Deer –

• Whitetail Deer are one of the most common deer you will find in North America. They average in weight from 100-200lbs. A very easy way to identify this species is simply in its name, check the underside of the animal’s tail.

Whitetail Deer Hunts

Rocky Mountain elk –

• The Rocky Mountain Elk is commonly known for having the largest antlers of all elk subspecies. They are found in the Rocky Mountains and many adjacent ranges. An average weight for a bull is 700lbs and their antlers can weigh up to 40lbs alone.

Rocky Mountain Elk Hunts

Roosevelt Elk –

• Weighing in from 700-1,100 lbs, Roosevelt Elk are the third largest mammal in North America. Roosevelts are a subspecies of elk found in western Oregon.

Best Elk Hunting States

Tule elk –

• Tule elk are the smallest species of elk found in North America. These smaller elk are mainly located in the state of California. Females often average 370-430lbs while the males can weigh anywhere from 440-550lbs.

The Best Elk Hunting States

Barren Ground Caribou –

• This medium-sized caribou is mainly found in the Canadian territories of Nunavut and the Northwest Territories. The Barren Ground Caribou are smaller and lighter-colored then the boreal woodland caribou.

Central Canadian Barren Ground Caribou –

• Living in the tundra and Arctic islands, these caribou can vary in size dramatically depending on where they are located. Mature bulls can weigh 250 to 450lbs and antlers for the CCBGC score around the same as the Quebec Labrador caribou.

Mountain Caribou –

• Very similar to Woodland caribou, this is an endangered species. They reside in British Columbia and western Alberta. In early 2019, the remaining southern mountain caribou were taken and put into maternity pens.

Quebec Labrador Caribou –

• This medium-sized tundra caribou is very similar to the CCBGC. Hunts for this subspecies can start at about 10,000 USD.

Woodland Caribou –

• Mountain caribou, or in other names, Boreal woodland caribou are one of the most endangered mammals in North America currently. These caribou live in the mountain ranges of British Columbia, Alberta, and parts of Idaho and Washington.

Alaska Yukon Moose –

• The Alaska Yukon or in other names, the giant moose, is a subspecies of moose native to ranges from Alaska to western Yukon. This moose is the largest subspecies of moose to roam the boreal and deciduous forests.

Alaska Moose Hunt

Canada Moose –

• There is an estimated 500,000 to 1 million moose in Canada. These moose are mainly located on the hillsides of the western mountain ranges. A mature bull’s antlers usually range between 120 and 150cm between the widest tips.

Canada Moose Hunt

Shiras Moose –

• Measuring over six feet at the shoulder and weighing up to 1,000lbs, the Shiras moose is Colorado’s largest big game animal. Colorado has one of the fastest growing populations in moose in the lower 48 states.

Moose Hunts

Bison –

• Mostly found in conservation areas, bison can be found in the US, Canada, and Mexico. Bison are commonly called buffalo in the US and Canada but are only distantly related to the true buffalo. Adults can grow up to 6ft and 7in in height and 11ft and 6in in length.

Muskox –

• Muskox typically weigh in from 500 to 800lbs. These huge mammals have inhabited the Arctic for thousands of years, and their long shaggy hair is well adapted to the frigid climate.

American Mountain Goat –

• These hoofed mammals are endemic to North America and commonly found on cliffs and ice. Mountain goats will weigh from 90 to 300lbs and are protected by their woolly white double coats.

Mountain Goat Hunts

Pronghorn Antelope –

• Pronghorn Antelope are mainly found in North America. Their natural ranges are most commonly extended from southern Canada to northern Mexico. The pronghorn is the fastest land mammal in the western hemisphere with running up to speeds of 42 mph for one mile.

Antelope Hunts

California Bighorn Sheep –

• Known for its large horns, the Bighorn sheep is native to North America. California is home to tell different subspecies of sheep, the desert Bighorn and the Sierra Nevada Bighorn.

Dall Sheep –

• Dall sheep, or in other names, the thinhorn sheep can be found in northwestern North America. Both male and female sheep carry a huge set of horns, but the females are often shorter and more slender.

Dall Sheep Hunts

Desert Bighorn Sheep –

• This subspecies of bighorn sheep is native to the deserts of the intermountain west and southwestern regions in the US. With rams weighing up to 250lbs, Desert bighorn sheep are the largest native animal in the Grand Canyon National Park.

Rocky Mountain Bighorn Sheep –

• Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep are the largest wild sheep in North America, the males can weigh up to 300lbs while just their horns alone can weigh up to 30lbs. The females, or ewes, are about half this size.

Stone Sheep –

• Native to northwestern North America, the Stone sheep is a southern subspecies of the Dall or Thinhorn sheep. These sheep can be found mainly in British Columbia seen licking minerals at Summit Lake or other Provincial Parks.

By DAVID RAINER, Alabama Department of Conservation and Natural Resources

With Alabama Governor Kay Ivey’s signature this week, new legislation will provide hunters in Alabama with another opportunity to harvest two specific animals. The legislation allows Conservation Commissioner Chris Blankenship to establish a season for hunting feral hogs and coyotes at night without the need for a depredation permit.

When the season is finalized, Alabama residents will be able to purchase a $15 license ($51 for non-residents) to hunt feral hogs and coyotes at night.

Matt Weathers, Chief of Enforcement with the Alabama Wildlife and Freshwater Fisheries (WFF) Division, said the new permit will make it much easier on hunters and the WFF staff.

“To this point in our state, those who wish to hunt feral swine or coyotes during nighttime hours have to get a permit that is only issued to landowners,” Weathers said. “Those landowners can list friends, family or delegates on the permit to take those animals at night for crop damage, property damage or livestock damage. This is done through special permitting through the local WFF District Office.

“The new law provides for a license that allows anyone in the state to hunt feral swine and coyotes at night by buying a license to hunt on any private or leased property where they have permission to hunt. So, if you lease a hunting club, if the person or corporation you lease that property from allows you to hunt at night, you can purchase the license to hunt those animals at night on your hunting club. And you can do that without the landowner coming to us to get a permit.

“It represents a new hunting activity for the state, and it will enlist as many as 200,000 hunters in this fight against two insidious predators. So, a new hunting activity; that’s a good thing. You have more feral swine and coyotes being removed from the state; that’s a good thing, too. It’s a win-win.”

Weathers said the depredation permits will continue to be available to landowners who prefer not to buy the new license.

“However, as long as the landowner gives permission, you can buy that new license to hunt at night,” he said. “This streamlines the process and provides the ability to hunt on very short notice.”

The damage wreaked by feral hogs on agriculture and wildlife habitat is substantial throughout the South. Estimates are that feral swine cause $50 million in private property damage in Alabama annually. The damage to wildlife habitat is difficult to quantify, but feral hogs compete with the native wildlife, like white-tailed deer and wild turkeys, for food and also damage the native habitat.

Coyotes are known to be quite effective predators of whitetail fawns and can have significant impacts on populations of white-tailed deer.

Weathers said the new license is specific to these two species.

“This license does not allow you to take any other game animal at night,” he said. “It’s a good way to control predators on your hunting club or property. And this gives you the opportunity to utilize that property or hunting club during the months when it’s a little too hot to hunt during the daytime. It gives you a little more value in your hunting lease.

“All parties involved, except for the feral swine and coyotes, are going to benefit from it.”

Weathers said several regulations will be amended to allow for equipment used for hunting at night.

“Those who buy the license will be able to use equipment that has heretofore been prohibited,” he said. “During the established season, you will be able to use night vision or thermal optics. You can have lights attached to your firearms. Those technologies are emerging and make the taking of these animals a lot more efficient.”