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In recent years, expensive high-end specialty loads—some with price tags of $75 or more—have dominated the shotshell aisles when it comes to spring turkey hunting. And that’s easy to understand as the combination of great hunting techniques, specialty choke tubes, and high-end ammunition products combine to help hunters fill a tag or two on America’s grand game bird of the springtime woods.

So, we asked the question: Are there affordable shotshells available, for say under $40, that will still knock down an old wise gobbler while he struts? Yes, if you know where to look. Better yet, just like what lesser-priced shotshell offerings did for decades prior to the super shot revolution in turkey loads, these more economical loads still put a gobbler’s fan on the wall and a hefty longbeard on the dinner table.

Many of these are available at your local hunting retailer, and some are even on sale right now. If you can’t find them in your own backyard, they are readily available at major online retailers.

Federal Grand Slam

A reliable offering from Federal Premium Ammunition, the Grand Slam turkey load uses the Minnesota company’s FLITECONTROL FLEX wad system, which opens from the rear for a controlled release of pellets and pattern density shot after shot, and works in both ported choke tubes and standard choke tubes at the end of the barrel in your turkey scattergun. With an advanced buffering compound kept in place by a roll crimp and clear card wad, the buffering in the shotshell prevents pellet deformation as the copper-plated lead shot travels exits the barrel and choke at 1200 fps. With 10 shotshells (2 3/4-inches) in the box and a portion of the proceeds donated to the National Wild Turkey Federation, this shotshell will help you take a gobbler this spring in the local woods and across the country as you finish out your wild turkey Grand Slam. federalpremium.com | $24.99

Federal Premium 3rd Degree

This shotshell from Federal Premium Ammunition actually gets hunters into the specialty turkey load market, without breaking the bank. That’s thanks to Federal’s 3rd Degree turkey load that combines the Minnesota company’s FLITECONTROL FLEX wad and a three-stage payload blend of #5 copper-plated lead shot, #6 FLITESTOPPER lead, and 18g/cc #7 HEAVYWEIGHT TSS (Tungsten Super Shot). The result according to Federal is pattern forgiveness at close ranges, a lethal knockout at mid-range, and extra-dense, high-energy deadly patterns at ranges of 40 yards or more. It’s a bank account friendly, super-charged turkey shotshell that works no matter the shot situation you are presented with this spring. And as with the Grand Slam from Federal Premium, a portion of the proceeds on this mid-30 dollar range box of shotshells will go to the NWTF to help ensure gobblers are roaming the woods for years to come. federalpremium.com | $35.99

Fiocchi Golden Turkey

Last year, Fiocchi updated its Golden Turkey Load. With three-inch shells using nickel-plated lead shot, an improved wad, and clean-burning powders, the result is a simple shotshell that remains the gold standard for many gobbler-getters. Whether you’re shooting a 12-gauge and wanting #4, #5, or #6 shot sizes, or a 20-gauge and #5 and #6 shot sizes, these shotshells feature 1 3/4-oz. loads and 1 1/4-oz. loads respectively. And with a 1200 fps payload, high-grade construction, and dense patterns downrange, it’s hard not to like these loads, especially since they check in at under $20. fiocchiusa.com | $19.99

HEVI-Shot HEVI-METAL Turkey

HEVI-Shot is legendary among waterfowl hunters who need a shotshell that can knock down greenheads at the edge of effective range, or a 20-plus pound Canada goose dropping down into a spread as winds blow during a December snowstorm. But the company is also known for its other high-performance shotshells, and nothing changes in that reputation when we’re talking about a box of HEVI-METAL Turkey loads featuring a blend of #4 and #5 pellets. Add in the company’s Pattern Density Technology to layer in those pellets—including a layer of 30-percent HEVI-Bismuth #5 shot and a layer of 70-percent #4 steel shot-and the result is a hard-hammering load at an amazingly friendly price-point. hevishot.com | $17.99

Kent Ultimate Turkey

Kent is no stranger in the shotshell-making game, producing great waterfowl and upland bird hunting shotshells for years, making them a favorite in many hunter’s duck blinds and hunting vests. But they also produce great turkey hunting shotshells, too, with a price tag that makes them look like they’re left over from a generation ago. Except, they’re not, they’re the latest shotshell from the West Virginia-based ammunition brand that helps turn out the lights every year on lots of wily old mountain toms, swamp gobblers, and prairie strutters. With the Kent Ultimate Turkey Diamond Shot load, hunters in 2024 get consistent tight patterning thanks to Kent’s high antimony, super-hard Diamond Shot loads in #4 and #5 shot sizes. Add in custom blended powders to go with the uniform pellets, and the result on the patterning board is a tight swarm of pellets. kentcartridge.com | $14.95

Remington Nitro Turkey

Growing up, I was a Remington guy, much like some families are Ford and others are Chevy. I didn’t know any different since the local Gibson’s store where I saved up and bought my first shotgun—yup, a Remington 870—carried the line from the famed American gun maker and ammunition maker that fell on hard times in recent years. With the purchase a while back of Remington’s ammo brands by Federal Premium Ammunition, the chance to run a Remington shell is still there for my 870 (a different one since the original one was stolen out of my truck after a dove hunt) thanks to the Remington Nitro Turkey loads that carry copper-plated, buffered loads that gets delivered by a blended powder recipe. Add in a Power Piston one-piece wad, along with a 1 7/8-oz. payload of shot whistling downrange at 1210 fps and the 80-percent pattern density will still kill a longbeard deader than a hammer. remington.com | $14.99

Winchester Long Beard XR

In years gone by, most turkey hunters kept their shotgun shooting ranges dialed in at 40 yards or less. But with the advent of great turkey hunting specialty chokes and high-performance loads with TSS (Tungsten Super Shot), bismuth, and more, those effective range distances have been extended in recent years. And thanks to Winchester, that’s true with a 12-gauge or a 20-gauge load that doesn’t break the bank, delivered with the company’s tried-and-true Long Beard XR load. That load has been a winner for Winchester and is billed as the most innovative turkey load ever developed by the longtime leader in ammo manufacturing. That’s achieved thanks to Winchester’s Shot-Lok Technology, which helps bring about amazing consistency and longer downrange capabilities with dense patterns hitting overwhelming a 10-inch circle out to 60-yards. While offering the knockdown power of higher priced loads, this shell delivers a deadly punch to a gobbler’s noggin at an easy to digest price-point, while still allowing turkey hunters to push the limits of what they once thought possible when a longbeard would hang up and refuse to come another step closer. winchester.com | $24.99

Winchester Super-X Turkey Load

This is a tried-and-true turkey load that has given out a RIP dinner table invite to countless longbeards over the years, my household included. With the Super-X line being a part of Winchester’s lineup in some capacity since 1922, the Super-X series has made lots of wingshooters happy down through the decades, including gobbler-getters like myself. That’s because those hunters have come to rely on the Super-X Turkey load’s copper-plated hard shot, custom blend of powders, and Grex Buffering, which combine to deliver tight patterns at long ranges, a high-velocity payload that turns the lights out on a spring turkey noisily strutting about, and cost-effectiveness. In short, this is a well-rated and dependable shotshell from one of America’s legendary ammunition brands that continues to deliver high-quality construction, superior in-the-field performance, and economic value for hunters looking to fill a turkey tag or two. Even if they don’t want to spend most of a Ben Franklin $100 bill on the shotshells that they put into their turkey vests this spring. winchester.com | $11

Hunting is an exciting sport that some people enjoy doing. It’s a sport that gives you an adrenaline rush.

Night hunting can be even more exciting because of the activity levels of animals. You are more likely to be successful when hunting at night.

However, night hunting can also be challenging. You need to hunt in poor visibility conditions that could make it hard to detect animals and identify their whereabouts.

Here is a simple guide if you are wondering how to be a better night hunter.

How To Be A Better Night Hunter – Simple Guide To Follow

Follow this guide to ensure that you become a successful night hunter. Night hunting indeed comes with many challenges. However, when done correctly, night hunting can be a rewarding experience.

Remember to follow the below tips to ensure you get the best night hunting experience.

Speak With Other Experienced Hunters

Experience can always help you see things from a different angle. It’s the same with hunting. Those with a lot of experience in night hunting will be able to give you an insight into this whole subject.

Experienced hunters will also have unique stories of their hunting trips in the past. Their encounters will teach you a few lessons on hunting successfully at night.

They will give you tips and advice which you will not be able to learn otherwise. You can join them on their hunting adventures and learn the techniques and a few tricks they use to become successful.

Equip Yourself With The Right Gear

Night hunting is ideal for stalking your prey in the dark and getting close enough for a clean shot. However, none of this is possible if you don’t have the right hunting gear.

Here are some of the essential hunting gear that you should have.

The right ammunition

As much as you need a good air rifle for hunting, you must also use the correct ammunition. For instance, you might need to use a heavy bullet that will penetrate through the animal’s hide, especially when hunting deer.

On the other hand, a lighter bullet will be sufficient if you’re hunting animals like rabbits and squirrels.

A good light source

Will help you see the path ahead. However, it could also alert the prey of your presence.

Therefore, you need to use a light source suitable for night hunting. Examples are red-dot sight or night vision sights – more on this later. These lights give you good vision at night without giving away your position.

Other hunting gear

Here is a list of hunting equipment you should carry at night.

• Weapon – Rifle or crossbow with ammunition or arrows
• Quiver
• Knife
• Rangefinder
• Flashlights or night vision lights
• Food and water
• First aid kit
• Night vision binoculars
• Camera

Find A Suitable Location And Have Patience

At night, it’s difficult to see your prey. Therefore, you need to find a suitable location with a good view of the open terrain. A clear and broad view will be advantageous in your search for prey.

Even after finding a good spot, getting your first prey could take a long time. That is why hunters need to have patience.

Another critical fact to note is to know when to go hunting. There are times when large numbers of animals roam around, while at other times, there are fewer. So, it’s vital to plan your hunting trip at a time when there are a lot of animals out there.

Use The Correct Lighting

Lighting plays a vital role in night hunting. You can’t use just about any light source available. For best results, you need to use the correct lighting, apt for night hunting. Animals are very swift runners; you can easily miss the game due to insufficient lighting. 

Many hunters make the mistake of using white light due to its sharpness. However, white light is inappropriate for hunting as it scares away the game, including foxes, bobcats, and coyotes. Therefore, these animals won’t come close enough for you to get a good shot.

The recommendation is to use red light, which softens the bright light and reflects a soft glow that illuminates the animal’s eyes. Target the light a little above the animal’s head so it won’t run away.

Use Night Vision

There are several night vision scopes in the market if you can afford them for your hunting trip. These include night vision scopes, riflescopes, or thermal imaging devices.

 These are devices that are specifically designed for night hunting. These devices make things clear and bright in low-light conditions.

However, these devices are costly, so many hunters avoid buying them. However, if you are a frequent night-hunter, you should consider investing in these devices.

The thermal scope is ideal to use if you are chasing the game. The thermal heat mapping in these devices increases your visibility.

The rifle scope is perfect when the hunter and prey are both static. It needs only a tiny amount of light to increase the visibility of the game.

The night vision scope gives you a large field of view and is tough to withstand heavy recoil. 

Hunting Call

Hunting calls are an excellent way to attract prey. It is a method that has been in use for thousands of years. In hunting calls, hunters mimic the sound of other animals to call the game.

It is an excellent technique for hunting at night due to limited visibility and concealed prey. Traditional methods use mouth calls that professionals used at the time.

However, now you also get digital call devices that are useful in this regard too. 

The right call will bring the game closer. So, as soon as it is in sight, all you need to do is to aim and shoot.

Dress Appropriately

Dressing appropriately is crucial for successful night hunting. You need to wear dark clothing that will blend with your surroundings.

You could also wear camouflage face paint to conceal your identity even more. It will keep you from being noticed by animals, thereby not signaling your presence.

Ensure you wear comfortable clothes and shoes, so you don’t make a noise while stalking prey.

Use Scent-Free Products

Animals are extremely sensitive to smells, more so than humans. It is their way of detecting predators. Therefore, you must ensure not to hide your position while hunting at night.

You can use scent-free soap to remove all traces of human scent in your body. You can also use scent-free detergent to reduce odor when washing your clothes.

Another product is a scent-free deodorant that you can apply to your underarms to reduce your scent further.

Final Thoughts

Hunting at night is an excellent way to catch prey, as it is when you’re most likely to see them. Becoming a better hunter at night is not challenging if you follow this simple guide.

Make sure you are well-equipped with gear specifically meant for use when hunting at night. Using the correct equipment with the right tactics will help you be successful in your night-hunting trips.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is It Better To Hunt At Night?

It’s better to hunt at night as it is when you’re most likely to see animals and get most of your kills. Many hunters recommend nighttime as the best time to hunt specific prey, including deer.

Why Do Hunters Use Red Lights At Night?

Red lights are suitable for hunting at night as they provide better eyeshine, which helps locate animals better than other colors.

Have you just purchased your first bow sight and you need to sight it in?

What are the right sight marks for you?

What is the best way to sight-in your bow?

The only way to find out is to get out there and start somewhere, and we’ll show you where that is.

We’ll discuss common distances used to set your pins as well as our favorite way to sight in your bow.

What Distances to Sight in Pins on Your Bow?

What is the best distance to sight in your bow? You’ll find various answers here and there according to the preferences of the person providing the advice. We’ll lead you straight as the best distances for you will depend on a few things:

• Draw weight/bow speed
• Type of bow hunting
• Personal preference for maximum shooting distances

All these factors will be addressed as we discuss the most commonly used sight marks for many bow shooters.

Top Pin Setting

The most common top pin setting for both timber and the open fields is 20 yards.

These days, most compound bows are fast enough to see very little difference in arrow trajectory between 10-20 yards. When this is the case, the first pin is usually set at 20 yards that also serves as a pin for 10-25 yard distances. You may be a few inches high when using the 20-yard pin for a 10-yard shot, and you may be a few inches low for a 25-yard shot.

To enable accurate and precise shots using your 20-yard pin this way, you’ll have to know how your bow, arrows, and sight setup will perform. Get to shooting off some arrows!

Do you have a 5-inch difference or more? Do you need to start with a 10-yard pin instead? If you’re shooting from a tree stand, you just might. You must also know the positions and kill-zone sizes of your game if you’re a hunter.

Low poundage bows that includes 40lb draw weights will require a top pin that should be set for 10 or 15 yards. It’s about shot placement that includes getting close enough to your target with it in a position to take an ethical shot.

Factors to think about:

• How fast is your bow?
• Where and what are you shooting?
• Become proficient with setup to predict how it performs between 10-25 yards.
• See instructions for your bow sight if there is a recommended top pin distance.

5-Yard Distance Increments

You may see some shooters with sight marks in 5-yard increments. An example includes: 15, 20, 25, 30, 35, and 40 and other similar variations. Again, personal preference is the rule here.

Consistent 5-yard increments are usually seen on sights that have 5 to 7 or more pins, and there are both pros and cons to this pin setup.

Advantages include less gap shooting, pin for every reasonable distance, and smaller yardage increments for confident shooting.

However, the disadvantages can outweigh the benefits. When increments are small, and you have a generally fast bow, the pins will be stacked very close together. It’s likely you will choose the wrong pin to shoot with.

Pins too close together can also block out a significant amount of the target. The more pins you have, the more it clutters your field of view.

10-Yard Distance Increments

Even 10-yard distances are the most common and versatile setup for hunters for many types of prey in the field. It may start with a 20-yard pin and continue from there, or it may start with a 15 or 25-yard pin and follow suit.

10-yard increments allow enough space between the pins to adequately see the target and to appropriately shoot the gaps when necessary. However, difficulty in achieving accuracy and precision at ranges further than 50 yards increases especially when you gap shoot. When you extend your pins out to longer distances, arrow drop, user error, and form issues are magnified.

Holding over or holding under isn’t so easy to do when you’re cold, hungry, tired, or you’re pumping with adrenaline due to the 10-point buck that just came into view 30 or so odd yards away. It may now be helpful to split the distance in 5-yard increments for the bottom pins such as 20, 30, 40, 45, and 50 or 20, 30, 35, 40, and 45. Find the variation that works for your bow setup and your shooting style.

Think about:

• How many pins should be in your 10-yard increment setup?
• What maximum distance are you comfortable and skilled enough at to make an ethical shot?

The more pins you have, the further you can shoot out in practice whether you realistically take shots out this far in the field. Practicing at 60 and 70 yards can make your 20-40 yard groupings tighter and easier to make. However, it does clutter your sight picture and it may encourage you to take shots you shouldn’t in the field.

Where is the Middle Ground?

The middle ground is more about having the right number of pins for your setup. There’s no need to clutter your sight picture with more pins than you realistically use in the field.

A general rule of thumb is 3 pins for many hunting applications, and 5 pins for Western or long shot hunting. Of course, there are hunters that do very well with a single pin bow sight to eliminate the process of gap shooting altogether. Where do you sit in the single vs multi-pin debate?

If you’re one of those hunters who push your bottom pins down as far as they can go to get them out of the way, but you keep them for the “just in case” moment, a fixed pin with a floater bow sight would serve you better.

Many times, the bow sight manufacturer will recommend in the setup and sighting-in instructions what distance the first pin should be set with and the distance increments for the following pins.

While 10-yard increments are certainly the standard and is a versatile setup, the goal is to find what setup works best for you. You won’t know it until you get out there and start practicing.

How to Sight-In a Bow

General Preparation Instructions for Sighting In

• Mount your sight to your bow.
• Be prepared to spread out sighting-in process over a course of several days due to fatigue that can compromise everything from correct form to accuracy.
• Have necessary gear and equipment ready i.e. targets, arrows, appropriate laser rangefinder, etc.
• Safety first: ensure you have the appropriate backstops and area clearance to shoot.
• Start close to the target: 10 yards to get on paper and to reduce adjustment issues later.
• Adjust in small increments at a time.
• Have Allen wrenches or required tools to make adjustments to sight.
• We like the “one axis at a time” method of sighting in. This process may incorporate use of leveled tape in the shape of a sideways “T”, as a cross, or any target that helps to focus the eye to aim in straight lines.

How to Sight In With a Fixed Pin Bow Sight

1. Stand approximately 10 yards away from your T target. Starting with the windage axis (left/right), you will want to aim for the vertical part of the target. Let off 3-5 arrows in a line.

1. Examine the arrows position in relation to the vertical line of the T. Being this close to the target, you want to make sure you’re as dead-on the center of the line as possible. Margins of error will be magnified when you step back to fine-tune your adjustments at longer distances.

1. To make adjustments, follow the arrow. If your arrows are left of the T, make an adjustment to move the entire sight housing If your arrows are right of the T, make an adjustment to move right.

1. Repeat this process until your arrows are dead-on center on the vertical line.

1. Stand approximately 10 yards away from your T target. If necessary, move the top pin high up towards the top of the housing to leave enough adjustment room for the remaining pins on sights with 5-7 pins. Let off 3-5 arrows in a line using your top pin as an aiming point for the horizontal part of the target to begin adjustments for the elevation axis (up/down).

1. Examine the arrows position in relation to the horizontal line of the T. You don’t have to be so precise with this at 10 yards. If the arrows are further than 6 inches of the line, follow the arrow to make adjustments by moving the entire sight housing. If your arrows are above the line, make an adjustment to move the sight up. If your arrows are below the line, make an adjustment to move the sight down.

1. Repeat this process until your arrows are within 6 inches of the horizontal line.

1. Step back to the distance you want to set your first pin for which is likely 20 yards. The top pin is the only pin you can set by moving the entire sight housing at this point in the process. Let off 3-5 arrows aiming with your top pin to hit dead-on the center of the horizontal line as possible. Now is the time to be precise with your adjustments by moving the entire sight housing up or down.

1. Once you’re hitting dead-on with your 20-yard pin, it’s time to sight-in the remaining pins which will all be adjusted individually. Typically, the next pins will be set for 30, 40, and 50 yards, if applicable. Stand at the distance you want to set your next pin for, let off 3-5 arrows using the appropriate pin to aim with and shoot for the horizontal line of the target.

1. Examine the arrows in relation to the horizontal line of the T. Be precise in making individual adjustments for the appropriate pin. Again, follow the arrow. When you’re successfully hitting the center of the line, it’s time to move to the next pin until all remaining pins are set for their distance.

1. Go back to 30 yards and let off 3-5 arrows for the vertical line to fine-tune your windage (left/right) axis with any adjustments if needed. You might notice you may be slightly off at 30 yards since variations in accuracy are magnified at longer distances.

1. Fine-tune any adjustments by double checking you’re consistently hitting the lines at your set pin distances. If you need to make any fine-tuning adjustments to your 20-yard pin at this point, do it by adjusting the individual pin, not by moving the entire sight housing.

How to Sight In a Bow Sight With 1 Pin

Each manufacturer and model of single-pin sights will have slightly different sighting-in instructions and sight tapes provided. It’s important to follow the setup recommended by the manufacturer to achieve maximum potential and accuracy from your sight.

A well-accepted method is the 20/60 setup which we’ll explain below.

1. Stand approximately 10 yards away from your T target. Starting with the windage axis (left/right), you will want to aim for the vertical part of the target. Let off 3-5 arrows in a line.

1. Examine the arrows position in relation to the vertical line of the T. Being this close to the target, you want to make sure you’re as dead-on the center of the line as possible since margins of error will be magnified when you step back to fine-tune your adjustments at longer distances.

1. To make adjustments, follow the arrow. If your arrows are left of the T, make an adjustment to move the entire sight housing If your arrows are right of the T, make an adjustment to move right.

1. Repeat this process until your arrows are dead-on center on the vertical line.

1. If you’re using calibration tape provided by the manufacturer, go ahead and stick it on your wheel or bar now. Turn the wheel or knob all the way to the top until it stops. Stand 20 yards away from your T target. Let off 3-5 arrows in a line using your pin as an aiming point for the horizontal part of the target to begin adjustments.

1. Follow the arrow. If you’re low, turn the wheel/knob down in small increments at a time. Repeat this process until your arrows are dead-on center on the horizontal line.

1. If using calibration tape, note the reference number the indicator is lined up with as this is your 20-yard mark. If not, use a pencil or marker to mark where your 20-yard mark is.

1. Step back in 10 yards at a time to sight-in for 30, 40, and 50 yards. Dial down the wheel/knob each time you move back.

1. Finally, get sighted-in at 60 yards and make the adjustments necessary by following the arrow. Take note of the reference number the indicator is lined up with or mark this spot as this is your 60-yard mark. Additionally, fine-tune your windage (left/right) axis now to ensure consistent shots.

1. Match the correct sight tape for your markings or number references provided by the manufacturer and apply it to the wheel or bar. Use the sight-tape to double-check you’re hitting consistently at the matched distances.

Put it to the Test!

Once you’re done sighting-in, it’s time to pull out the 3D and 10-ring targets and put your skills to the test. You may be surprised to find your groups are tighter than ever. But, is this the only way to sight in a bow?

Everyone may use a slightly different sighting-in method, the same way they may use different distances to sight in their pins. Some may adjust for both left/right at the same time as they’re adjusting for up/down shots. It happens to be the mainstream way of adjusting especially when using traditional 10-ring targets.

Use the system you’re most familiar with. Get to know what distances or sight-in method you like best by getting out there and nocking some rounds. Sight in and shoot sharp!

Further Reading

• How to Measure Scope Ring Height (With Pics & Calculations)
• How to Adjust a Rifle Scope: 6 Scope Adjustments Explained!
• How to Level a Scope on a Rifle [Step-by-Step With Pics]
• What is a Rifle Scope Ruler (Mildot Master) & How to Use It?
• What is a Prism Scope? Prism VS Reflex VS LPVO!

If you ask the average American rifle shooter if the world needs another hot new hunting cartridge, it’d be tough to find many to agree right off the bat. But if you laid these specs in front of that same average shooter, they might change their tune: a long, heavy-for-the-caliber bullet with a high ballistic coefficient that produces less felt recoil than a 7mm Rem Mag that can be run in a light, short-action rifle action. Yeah, that’s definitely attractive — and that’s the new 6.8 Western cartridge.

It was engineered as a collaboration between Browning and Winchester, and released to the public in 2021 with hunters as the target demographic.

“The 6.8 Western is the cartridge we turn to for accuracy testing,” said Browning’s director of marketing and communications, Rafe Nielsen, on the Backcountry Hunting Podcast.

Many shooters may ask why two powerhouse companies would introduce a new cartridge in an already saturated market. Do the engineers at Winchester and Browning know something we don’t?

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Going From Good to Great

The cartridge’s designers lowered the shoulder of the .270 WSM, removing roughly 10% of the case’s powder capacity. Lowering the shoulder allowed long, higher ballistic coefficient bullets to seat in the case without encroaching into the powder space.

Fast-twist barrels of 1:7.5” and 1:8” help stabilize the long, heavy .277-caliber projectiles weighing from 162 to 175 grains.

The heaviest bullet you can expect to find in a .270 WSM is 150 grains. With heavier bullets and a higher BC, the 6.8 Western can simply reach out farther with greater accuracy.

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6.8 Western vs. 7mm Rem Mag

According to the BH Podcast, the 6.8 Western, for the most part, nips on the heels of the 7mm Remington Magnum in several categories — again, with a lighter kick.

When both cartridges shoot the same 165-grain bullet weights, the velocity for the 6.8 Western is roughly 2,900 fps, and the 7mm Rem Mag moves at about 3,000 fps. The BC of those bullets is more than 0.600 on the G1 scale, which translates into a projectile that can buck the wind and retain energy at long ranges.

However, the 6.8 Western produces about 15% less felt recoil than a 7mm Remington Magnum. It offers a cartridge capable of taking all of North America’s big-game species — minus the really big bears — in a short-action platform with manageable recoil.

With those features, the 6.8 Western is predictably an excellent deer hunting cartridge that’s capable of making long shots across bean fields on whitetails or steep canyon shots on mountain muleys. It’s especially well-suited for hunting the Great Plains, where shots are routinely at around the 400-yard mark.

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6.8 Western vs. .270 Winchester

The 6.8 Western and a .270 Winchester fire the same-diameter bullet, but their parent cases differ quite a bit. The .270 Winchester was born from necking down the .30-06 Springfield case to hold a .277-inch projectile.

The 6.8 Western was created from the .270 Winchester Short Magnum case by lowering the shoulder and reducing the case’s powder capacity, which allows a longer, heavier, high BC bullet more room to fit into the case.

A 140-grain bullet fired from a .270 produces 1,401 foot pounds of energy at 500 yards, while the 6.8 Western’s 170-grain bullet hits with 1,736 foot pounds The cartridges also have almost identical trajectories, but the 6.8 lands with a larger wallop.

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How It Stacks Up Against the 6.5 PRC

Should you get a 6.8 Western if you have a 6.5 PRC? That largely depends on whether you are a target shooter or a big-game hunter.

The 6.5 PRC allows shooters to hit vital-size targets on large bovines out to 800 yards. However, the 6.5 PRC’s 140- to 153-grain bullets do not carry the same downrange penetration capabilities and energy transfer as the heavy-for-caliber 163-, 165-, 170-, or 175-grain projectiles from the 6.8 Western.

If hitting steel at extended distances or shooting whitetails and pronghorn in open country is what you are asking the 6.5 PRC to do, then sticking with that cartridge is fine. However, if you’re after larger game, like elk, large black bears, or moose, the 6.8 Western will drive heavier bullets at difficult angles deep into the vitals.

Those heavier bullets will retain more energy at longer ranges. Pair that extra power with the larger frontal diameter of the 6.8 PRC, and the cartridge delivers far more thump on target.

Both cartridges also have the charge sitting close to the primer, which allows for efficient ignition within the case, consistent pressures within the chamber, and velocities that stay the same from shot to shot.

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6.8 Western Rifles

There are currently 23 rifle offerings from Winchester chambered for the 6.8 Western. Nine are in the “rifleman’s rifle,” the controlled-feed Model 70. There are also 14 options in Winchester’s budget-friendly XPR line.

Browning’s 6.8 Western lineup includes 18 X-Bolt rifles, including the Western Hunter LR. There are 13 X-Bolt models in 6.8 featuring Browning’s own Hawg Muzzle Brake, advertised to reduce felt recoil by up to 76%, depending on caliber. Not only is this easier on your shoulder, but it also reduces muzzle rise, so a shooter can easily spot hits or get back on target for follow-up shots on game.

For models that don’t wear a brake, recoil sits between the levels of a .270 Winchester and a 7mm Remington Magnum. It is pretty comparable to a .30-06 firing a 180-grain bullet, which comes out to about 20 foot pounds of felt energy in an 8-pound rifle.

Some smaller gun shops, such as the Texas company Hill Country Rifl, have decided not to build guns for the new caliber because some ammunition doesn’t seem to shoot well out of their rifles.

“The Browning ammunition made our accuracy standards of a three-shot half-inch group at 100 yards,” Matt Bettersworth of Hill Country Rifles told Free Range American, “but the Winchester ammunition did not meet our standards. And this was from the same gun.”

Winchester Model 70 Extreme HunterPrice: $1,869.99

Often dubbed “The Rifleman’s Rifle,” Winchester’s Model 70 bolt-action is incredibly accurate for a factory-fresh rifle. This version is built for dead-on accuracy in the roughest hunting environments on Earth.

It features a tough Bell and Carlson synthetic stock that resists moisture like there’s no tomorrow and a free-floating sporter-weight barrel with a tungsten Cerakote finish.

Winchester XPRPrice: $609.99

The Winchester XPR is proof that you don’t have to dump a wad of cash to get a great rifle chambered in 6.8 Western. The company took the proven concepts of the Model 70 and combined them with super-efficient manufacturing processes to come up with a reliable and affordable option for the everyday hunter.

Featuring an advanced polymer stock with a matte black finish, a nickel teflon-coated bolt body, and a rugged Perma-Cote finish on the barrel and receiver, this rifle is made to stand up to harsh conditions and rough environments.

The Future of the 6.8 Western

Predicting the fate of a cartridge is hard. Like the .30-06 Springfield, some survive because of the confidence of troops carrying them in battle and later into the deer woods. Sometimes the cartridge is paired with a rifle platform that flat-out works, such as the 7mm Rem Mag and the Remington Model 700. Some cartridges never make it far beyond the basements they were born in.

If hunters and shooters take notice of the 6.8 Western’s ability to shoot high BC bullets capable of ringing long-range steel or taking game up to the size of a moose, then it should stick around. An inherently accurate cartridge that recoils less than a 7mm Remington Magnum chambered in compact, lightweight, proven rifle platforms should find a place in any rifleman’s arsenal.

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Remember when fishing seemed simple? When I think back to my days as a young angler, I often reflect on experiences fishing from shore. No area pond or reservoir was safe, provided I could somehow gain access, even if that meant sneaking in at night. The adventure still feels real. But I’m reminded of another aspect of those early forays: how many fish I caught.

True, most anglers have plugged from the bank for bass, and maybe caught a few bluegills along the way. But my teenage years were filled with bank-fishing trips for a bunch of species: walleyes, steelhead, pike, and even muskies in the right body of water. But today I want to talk about crappie fishing; these delectable panfish are fun to catch, and springtime is the prime time all over the country. Here are a few tips to put you well on your way to a great fish dinner, even if you don’t own a boat.

1. Fish Where They Live

OK, choosing the right spot is absolutely the most important factor in fishing from the shoreline. Unlike anglers in a boat, shore-bound anglers can’t move all over looking for fish. So it’s critical to get in front of crappies right off the bat. Always pick a shoreline with deep-water access, regardless of time of year. True, crappies go shallow in the spring, but even the shallow spawning areas usually have deep water close by. If you can find a place that offers a nice mix of shallow brush or cover (don’t forget about boat docks), with fairly deep water within casting range, you’ve got a winner. In reservoirs, think major creeks where the channel comes in. On natural lakes, try the outside areas of coves, or steeper shorelines. We’re looking for zones where schools of fish can migrate in and take up temporary residence. Those spots won’t be miles from the main lake.

(Don’t Miss: The 3 Best Lures for Catching a 10-Pound Bass)

2. Outfit Yourself Correctly

When fishing from a boat, a little, whippy ultralight rod will catch you some crappies. But when shore-bound, it’s important to increase your rod length. That will allow for longer casts, and the ability to keep your line up off the water (important when it’s windy). Step up to a 7-foot rod, minimum, and go even longer if you can. A 9-foot, light-power rod, capable of lobbing a float rig, is ideal.

I’m a big believer in braided line, even for crappies. Braids in diameters matching 4-pound mono are ideal, and incredibly strong. This light line allows for effortless casts, and it doesn’t coil up and jump off the spool of your reel. Match with a 6-pound monofilament leader at the business end, and rig everything on the mono. A quick tip: when choosing your braided mainline, don’t shy away from bright colors. They come in handy when watching your line for strikes from the shoreline.

(Don’t Miss: Best Lures for Crappie Fishing: Jigs vs. Minnows)

3. Keep it Simple

I never use live bait when crappie fishing from a boat. But when bank fishing, live minnows can save the day. Most of your fishing will be done soaking a bait for longer than you would from a boat, where the target of your casts is ever changing. Bank fishing is a bit less active, and sometimes the fish eye your presentation for a while before striking. A simple float rig, above a few split shots and a light-wire, long-shanked hook is ideal for bank fishing crappies. Try a slip-float if water depths are greater than about 4 feet, and vary your bait from the top to bottom of the water column.

As for artificial baits, it’s hard to beat a small twister-tail on an 1/8-ounce jighead, or a Beetle Spin. Little crankbaits catch a bunch of slabs, too, and a tube under a float can often keep up with minnows during a hot bite.

(Don’t Miss: 4 Rules of Early Spring Bass Fishing)

4. Try the Night Shift

Some of the best crappie fishing I have ever encountered happened at night, in the early spring, in the Midwest. Yes, it was cold. But that quickly was ignored as I reeled in slab after slab. One thing is for sure: crappies school up and move around quite a bit after dark. The best way to locate a school is to bring them to you through the use of a lantern. Riprap banks, causeways, and the faces of dams are great spots to try. Schools of fish will cruise these shorelines and stop around the edges of lights, one of which should be yours. There, they feed on the shiners and other bait attracted to the same glow. Here, the minnow rig prevails, placed just on the outside of the glowing beacon. Keep your bait high in the water column, and be prepared to wait at least an hour after sunset for the action to kick in. Sometimes, the fishing takes off at midnight, but, believe me, it’s worth it.

5. Wade

Savvy shoreline anglers sometimes have to take matters into their own hands, or feet. Wading can be the best way to access the places fish live. On lakes with decent bottoms and flat shorelines with ample brush, wade-fishing can be dynamite; even better than fishing from a boat. Wading is deadly silent, and it allows anglers to make perfect, effortless casts. Here, it’s best to go with the longest rod possible. In Florida, we often cane pole crappies with 12-footers, dipping right into the thickest cover. Tube jigs tied directly to braided line, without the use of a float, pay off. Be sure you know the water before diving in, and only carry a little gear. Don’t forget a stringer.

This spring, don’t get discouraged if you’re stuck on the shore without a boat. Crappie fishing from the bank can be extremely productive, resulting in some of the best eating fish of the season. Scout a bit ahead of time, and you might find a number of anglers just like you, taking it to the bank, and going home with full stringers.

(Don’t Miss: How to Catch a Trophy Crappie)

By Duncan Dobie

Taking a world-record buck is hard under any circumstances. Doing so with a 45-pound recurve and wooden arrows is even more remarkable.

Such was the situation in 1962, when then-34-year-old Lloyd Goad shot his 14-pointer in southern Iowa. At the time, the deer was the top bow typical of the modern era, at 197 6/8 net Pope & Young points, and he’d wear the crown for three years.

Lloyd died on Dec. 20, 1993, and remarkably little has been written about his great whitetail. The following was taken from his handwritten account of the historic hunt.

“I started hunting squirrels with a neighbor when I was about 14 years old,” Lloyd wrote. “Kenny was several years older than me. All of his close hunting buddies had been called off to service during World War II, but he was unable to go because of a heart condition. He was one of the finest hunters I ever knew.”

After getting married, Lloyd found a new hunting partner in his wife’s brother, Donald. They enjoyed many trips to hunt small game near the Des Moines River, in an area that later became part of Red Rock Lake.

Around 1953, the Conservation Commission opened a special deer season with a limited number of permits for a two-day shotgun hunt. It was a new experience for both men.

“Gradually our enthusiasm for deer hunting in Iowa spread,” Lloyd wrote. “We didn’t fill our tags each year, but for about six or seven years we had some very rewarding hunts.

“During the late ’50s, more and more shotgun hunters began to invade our territory,” he noted. “About that time, several of the original bowhunters in our area brought in the biggest bucks I’d ever seen! I decided the challenge of bowhunting for deer was something I wanted to try.

“Midway through the 50-day 1961 bowhunting season, I purchased some hunting equipment from the closest archery dealer around, a man named Elwood Stafford, who lived in Albia, Iowa,” Lloyd noted. “I bought myself a 45-pound York Crescent recurve bow and some cedar shafts tipped with Hill’s Hornet broadheads.

“Being a veteran bowhunter himself, Elwood was very helpful in showing me some of the fundamentals of bowhunting,” Lloyd noted. “I knew I should do a lot of practicing, so I acquired several bales of straw from a farmer. I placed them against the lube room wall of the service station (which Lloyd ran), along with several layers of cardboard.

“The longest distance I could get from the target without running the risk of having someone walk in front of an arrow was about 40 feet. Studying this distance from a gun hunter’s perspective, I said to myself, ‘This’ll be a cinch!’ But the many scars on the cement block wall were grim reminders of the misses and broken arrows that resulted from my first few practice sessions. After several days, though, I began to get the feel of a decent release, and I started shooting some reasonable groupings.”

With less than two weeks left in the 1961 season, Lloyd headed for the Monroe County woods. Hunting on the ground, he got a shot at a button buck — but the arrow sailed about four inches over the deer’s shoulder. Days later, Lloyd missed a forkhorn walking broadside at about 20 yards. That arrow deflected off a tree limb.

Although disappointed, Lloyd was now hooked on bowhunting. “Those two misses gave me more of a thrill than practically all of my shotgun kills,” he wrote.

Lloyd then had two more misses during the early weeks of the 1962 season. Little could he know that his next shot — only his fifth at a wild deer — would bring down one of the greatest typicals of all time.

“When the last day of the ’62 archery season appeared on the calendar wall at the service station — Dec. 2, 1962 — I was still without a deer,” Lloyd wrote. “I resolved to take the entire day off and hunt all day long, if necessary.

“The day began pretty much like any other — up early, a good-luck wish from my wife, Loretta, and I started on the 18-mile ride to my stand with the windows and vents open on my pickup to help rid my clothes of all household odors. Before heading into the woods, I applied a liberal dose of buck lure on the sleeves and legs of my camouflage suit and a little extra on my cap for good measure.

“To a large degree, the good fortune I was about to experience was due largely to several outings I had shared with a good friend named Paul Pearson,” Lloyd wrote. “Paul had been one of the best wolf hunters in southern Iowa during his younger years, and he taught me a lot about reading the woods and looking for deer sign — especially about trails and crossings. Since most bowhunters hunted on the ground in those days, my preferred method was to set up near a major trail not far from a little-used road crossing. You could get there quickly and quietly without spreading a lot of scent in the woods, and I found that deer liked to use these trails.

“When I reached the area I intended to hunt, I met a hunting buddy, Bob DeMoss, who planned to do some squirrel hunting in the same general area. I also ran into two other bowhunters. One had shot a doe the evening before, and he was back to look for it. He planned to continue his search in an area just north of where I wanted to hunt. His friend said he would cover a trail to the west, in case something was chased out.

“Bob decided to hunt squirrels in the timber on some state forest land just south of me across a dirt road. So I decided to hunt a well-used trail not far from the road — pretty much in the middle of all this activity — in hopes that something might happen.”

Lloyd quietly slipped into a small, triangular patch of woods near the right-angle intersection of two dirt roads. He took a stand next to a large elm not far from a fencerow that ran from one road to the other.

Hunting conditions were perfect. The area was cloaked in a heavy mist, the kind big bucks love to sneak around in. Lloyd barely had time to pick his spot before he heard a noise coming from toward the road.

“I took a peak around the elm, and there he came — slipping through the wild plum sprouts and sumac bushes with his h

ead down. He had so many points on his head that I couldn’t distinguish his antlers from the limbs of the bushes. My heart started pounding so hard I thought he must be deaf not to hear it,” Lloyd recalled.

“He walked up to the fence and stopped behind some brush not 20 feet away. I was behind the tree, and he couldn’t see me trembling. I could have taken a shot through a small opening in the brush at that time, but the experience of four previous misses had taught me that it was simply too risky. I waited.

“He just sort of melted over the fence with no effort. My bow was already in position, and all I had to do was pull it back. When I did, he stopped and looked straight at me at a distance of 18 steps. He was already beginning to whirl around and go back into the brush as I released.”

Lloyd waited a half-hour and then eased back to the truck. He met Bob a few minutes later and showed him the buck’s enormous tracks in the road crossing. Lloyd returned four hours later with friends, and they soon found the buck. Hit in a leg artery, he’d gone less than 150 yards.

“He carried 14 points and weighed 224 pounds field dressed,” Lloyd beamed. “I couldn’t have planned a more perfect ending to any season!”

This trophy had an almost perfectly symmetrical 7×7 rack, and at 197 6/8 typical, he was an easy archery world record. His mark fell three years later, when Mel Johnson arrowed his 204 4/8-inch typical in Illinois. That buck remains No. 1 in P&Y.

In 1986, Curt Van Lith arrowed a huge 11-pointer in Minnesota, tying Lloyd’s buck for No. 2 in P&Y. Their deer still share that spot, though they figure to drop with confirmation of the 203 3/8-inch Hubert “Tiggy” Collins buck, taken in Saskatchewan last fall. (See the February and August issues.)

Lloyd kept bowhunting for many seasons after downing his Iowa record. He was often asked how it felt to have to settle for shooting bucks smaller than one he’d already taken.

“Every deer is a new experience,” Lloyd would reply. “And every shot is a challenge. Not every deer will make the top of the record book, but they all make my book — bowhunting pleasure!”

Once one of Larry Huffman’s Legendary Whitetails, this giant now is in the “King of Bucks” collection at the American National Fish & Wildlife Museum in Springfield, Missouri. For more on the Goad buck, visit legendarywhitetails.com.

With Remington’s recent rebirth, we’ve decided to explore one of the kings of American shotguns.

Remington and Mossberg ruled the roost of pump-action shotguns for the longest time now. Remington’s 870 has long been their flagship firearm, and today we are taking more than one for a run.

The Remington 870 Express .410 was my first actual firearm. It was given to me for my 8th birthday, and I remember that evening my dad took me hunting rabbits in the orange groves near our home.

I can still remember toting this lightweight little pump gun as the sunset. It was cold, and while we didn’t get any rabbits that night, it’s still one of my fondest memories.

I’ve clung to that Remington .410 ever since and recently gave it to my own son. I’m certainly a fan of the gun, and I own five different models of the 870, and it’s easily one of my favorite shotguns.

Remington 870 Review at a Glance

Pros

• Slick and smooth action
• Incredibly reliable
• Available in virtually any configuration you could want
• Available in multiple calibers
• Rugged steel receiver

Cons

• Dimpled tubes make mag extensions a pain
• Factory LOPs are often too long

The Bottom Line

The Remington 870 is an incredibly reliable and well-made shotgun designed to fill any role a shotgun can fill. It’s an awesome option for home defense, deer hunting, upland birds, ducks, small game, clay pigeons, etc. Clearly, the Remington 870 is a top-tier choice if you need a pump shotgun.

Specs & Features

Specs

• Caliber: 12 Gauge (.410 and 20 gauge also available)
• Length: 40″
• Barrel Length: 20″ (14 through 28″ also available)
• Weight: 7.5 lbs
• Capacity: 7 Rounds (4 to 6 also available)

Features

• Dual-action bars
• Raised bead sight
• Deep blued finish (Wingmaster models)

The 870’s Background

Remington’s king of pump shotguns came to life in 1950, and at the time, it was rather revolutionary.

You see, Remington had the idea to increase the action bars from one to two and patented the concept of dual-action bars on a pump shotgun. Dual-action bars help prevent binds, increase reliability, and result in a super-smooth action.

Remington designed the 870 to compete with the Winchester Model 12, which was considered the king of shotguns in 1950. The 870 proved to be more modern, reliable, and affordable.

The result was a pump-action, bottom loading, side ejecting, tubular magazine-fed shotgun.

There are hundreds of different configurations of this gun, and in 2009 Remington stated over 11 million 870s had been produced. The various configurations include different calibers, finishes, barrel lengths, furniture, and more.

The most basic models are the Express and Express Tactical. These feature a matte black bead-blasted finish with wood or synthetic furniture and are available in .410, 2- gauge, and 12-gauge.

The Wingmaster represents the company’s premier shotgun, and as the name implies, most Wingmasters are sporting guns. However, I own two tactical variants of the Wingmaster, so they’re not unheard of.

Wingmasters feature a beautiful blued finish and American walnut stocks and are premium-grade guns.

The Fieldmaster represents Remington’s latest line of shotguns and falls in between the Express and Wingmaster models.

The stock is matte black and reportedly more durable than the express finish. The gun also features improved action bars for a silky-smooth action.

Beyond these three designs, we also have the Special Purpose Marine model, the TAC-14 firearms, the SuperMag, the Police Magnum models, and likely a dozen other models between limited configurations, military models, and distributor exclusives.

Who Is It For?

The Remington 870 isn’t like the Glock 19. If I say Glock 19, you picture Gaston’s little polymer frame pistol. If I say Remington 870, you could picture many guns, from the military’s MCS to your grandfather’s bird gun.

There is an 870 for everyone who needs a shotgun. I tend to prefer the tactical models and all but my .410 Express model represents various tactical 870s. I have the ONG military model, a retired Police Wingmaster, and two TAC-14s.

That’s an excellent example of how versatile the 870 platforms can be. My two Wingmasters can be converted to hunting guns with the swap of a barrel, the removal of the magazine extensions, and the addition of a plug.

Shotguns can be swapped between various configurations with ease and put into various roles in half a heartbeat. Proper ammo selection goes a long way, and shotguns certainly give you many different ammo options.

The Remington 870 can be configured for any roll and for nearly everyone. From kids with .410s to breachers with short PGO 870s.

Fit & Feel

I’m a shotgun nerd, and I’ve experienced a variety of different actions — actions from Benelli, Mossberg, Winchester, and more. However, the 870 Wingmaster will always hold a space in my heart.

It has to be the smoothest and slickest action on any pump-action shotgun I’ve handled.

Even the standard Express models are super slick and smooth. You won’t find the grit and slop that shows up in other pump actions. Working a well-honed, well-worn action delivers a tactile experience that’s just plain enjoyable.

It’s so enjoyable that it feels like it should be fattening.

It’s hard to express a tactile feeling through text. It slides like it’s on well-worn and oiled ball bearings. The action is so smooth I can work it by rapidly moving the gun back and forth with just my firing hand.

Heck, maybe that’s why Sarah Connor chose the 870 to fight Terminators.

What I don’t like and never will is the American shotgun maker’s obsession with long lengths of pulls. The first thing you should do for tactical guns is drop the 14.5-inch stock and toss on a Hogue youth or Magpul SGA stock.

If I purchase a Wingmaster or Fieldmaster, I don’t want to remove my American Walnut stock for a polymer one. I’m 6-foot-5-inches, and a 14.5-inch LOP feels ungainly for me. So why is this the standard?

Other than that, I don’t have much to complain about.

Ergonomically the gun is fine. We get a cross-bolt safety that sits at the rear of the trigger, making it a little less intuitive than desirable.

The pump release sits in front of the trigger and is plenty easy to manipulate. Tossing on a pistol grip stock setup or an AR-like adjustable stock doesn’t create ergonomic issues.

How Does It Shoot?

No shotgun gets far without being a solid shooter. Shotgun aficionados have long enjoyed shooting the 870, and it’s easy to see why. I’ve already gushed over the smooth action, but there’s more to it than that.

First, let’s talk all about accuracy. Remington uses either a vent rib or a bead that sits on a platform. This raises the height of the bead and ensures accuracy and a proper point of aim/point of impact.

If the bead sits directly on the barrel, the shotgun will appear to hit high and be difficult to aim in a pinch. A raised bead corrects that issue and makes sure your buckshot hits where your bead sits.

(Rhyme unintentional, but I’ll take it.)

I’ve gotten tight groups with the bead sights with slugs, roughly 2.5 inches at 50 yards with a supported position. They were Federal Vital-Shok and represent what most will hunt with.

Remington offered the famed rifle sights on the barrel, outside of beads, which offer great slug capability. Ghost ring sights are rare on Remington 870s but not unheard of. Sadly, most Remington 870s don’t come optic ready.

Attaching a rail or optic isn’t easy and might require a trip to a gunsmith to properly install.

In regards to recoil, it’s like any other pump-action shotgun. The recoil can be fierce, largely on your load selection. Reduced recoil tactical buckshot won’t leave a bruise, but 1-ounce slugs at 1,600 feet per second might rattle some teeth.

A good push/pull recoil technique can do a fantastic job of mitigating recoil and making the 870 plenty easy to handle. That slick action is more than nice and does make it easy to ensure you can quickly and reliably work the action.

Short stroking shotgun actions happen, but the smoother the action, the less likely you will short stroke the gun.

Regarding total reliability, the 870 eats standard 2.75 and 3-inch shells. It’s not friendly to 1.75-inch mini shells but functions perfectly with 2.5 and 2-inch shells.

What Sets the 870 Apart

If a pump-action shotgun is on your wish list, you should feel good knowing that a quality, basic pump-action shotgun isn’t an expensive weapon.

For less than $450, you can get a good pump-action shotgun, but inside of that realm of affordable pump-action, the Remington reigns supreme.

Remington 870s give you the smoothest action, a steel receiver, a reliable design, a great bead sight, and plenty of modularity. It’s a tough-as-nails gun that can easily last you a lifetime.

By the Numbers

Reliability: 5/5

If you make a pump-action shotgun that can’t cycle, I’m unsure what to tell you. The 870 cycles, fires, ejects without complaint and will do so for decades of trouble-free use.

Ergonomics: 4/5

My main complaint on the 870 is Remington’s love of the 14.5-inch length of pull. It’s the first thing I’d change on my Remington guns. Other than that, the Remington 870 features a solid set of perfectly useable controls.

Accuracy: 5/5

The bead on the Remington 870 is properly set up to ensure the proper point of aim and point of impact. Within the range of a smoothbore shotgun, it’s as accurate as it gets.

Customization: 5/5

The Remington 870 is much like a AR 15 in terms of customization. Do whatever you want to it!

Value: 4/5

The Remington 870 isn’t the cheapest pump-action shotgun or even the cheapest American-made pump-action shotgun, but it still represents a good value.

Overall: 4.5/5

The Remington 870’s ruled the roost as one of the two kings of American pump-action shotguns and will continue to do so for many years to come. Heck, it’s outlasted Remington’s own attempts to release a newer pump-action shotgun.

Must-Have Remington 870 Upgrades

There are a ton of options for Remington 870 upgrades on the market. Here are just a few of my favorites:

Magpul SGA Stock

The Magpul SGA is the best shotgun stock on the planet. It’s adjustable for LOP, has sling points, has an optional riser for optics, and is made to last forever. It’s the stock for modern shotguns.

Streamlight TL Racker

Mounting a light and maintaining control of it can be tough with pump-action shotguns.

The Streamlight TL Racker replaces your pump with an integrated light. You get 1,000 lumens of bright white light for target identification with massive ambi controls and full control over the light and weapon.

Blue Force Gear VCAS Sling

A good sling can take you far, and the Vickers Combat Applications Sling is one of the best.

It comes with numerous attachment mechanisms making it easy to toss onto a shotgun like the 870. The VCAS is a quick-adjust two-point design that makes weapon retention a snap.

Mesa Tactical SureShell Carrier

Shotguns don’t have a lot of ammo in the gun, so keeping some extra ammo on the gun is always smart.

The Mesa Tactical SureShell side saddle is a very well-made design that allows you to keep four spare rounds tied to the gun. Mesa makes high-quality stuff, and they are well known as shotgun people.

Final Verdict

If you have a task requiring a shotgun, then the Remington 870 can get it done in style.

Now that Remington is back up and running, the 870 will likely rise to the top. It’s a stellar option for home defense, hunting, trap shooting, and whatever else you need a shotgun for.

What do you think of the Remington 870? Let us know in the comments below. Want to know whether the Mossberg 500 or Remington 870 is right for you? Check out our head-to-head between these two guns.

The story of America’s largest and rarest turkey subspecies

The Gould’s turkey (Meleagris gallopavo mexicana) is one of the few wild turkey subspecies that survive in the arid regions of the south-central United States and Mexico. Although there are some limited hunting opportunities in Arizona and New Mexico, you’ll likely have to head south of the border to pursue one. Here is what you need to know about our largest and rarest turkey subspecies.

Description and life history of the Gould’s wild turkey

The Gould’s turkey subspecies is similar in weight to the Eastern wild turkey, with males weighing 18 to 30 pounds and females weighing 8 to 12 pounds on average (NWTF 2018). However, they generally are larger in size with longer legs, larger feet, and larger tail feathers than any other subspecies (Kennamer 2009). Their feathers resemble the Merriam’s turkey, but have metallic copper, greenish-gold, and bluish-green reflections instead. Differing from the Merriam’s turkey, the rump feathers and tail fan tips on Gould’s are white instead of creamy or buff-colored (Kennamer 2009). Hens have duller feathers to hide well on a nest, and the breast feathers are buff to brown with a slightly purple reflection. The Gould’s turkey is thought to have moderate length beards and spurs compared to all the turkey subspecies (NWTF 2018). The colors of male and female heads are similar to Easterns, with males having a red and blue colored head and females having bluish-gray heads with more feathers present.

The breeding season occurs in the spring and is usually the most concentrated in April through June (NMDGF 2017; Kennamer 2009). It is believed that the Gould’s turkey has a lower frequency gobble than the Merriam’s or Rio Grande subspecies (Kennamer 2009). Most courtship displays and breeding occur in the morning hours, while afternoons are spent foraging. After mating, a hen scratches a nest into the ground, usually located on a steep slope at the base of a tree or other obstruction in heavy cover (NMDGF 2017). Anywhere from 4 to 17 eggs (usually 10 to 12) are laid in the ground nest and incubated for approximately 28 days (NMDGF 2017; Kennamer 2009). Hens normally leave the nest in the morning to feed briefly, but otherwise incubate the eggs steadily until the chicks hatch.

Afterword, the poults (called a brood) and the hen forage together in riparian areas and forest openings where insect life is abundant. The poults feed heavily on invertebrates (e.g., insects and spiders) as they are rich in protein (NatureServe 2018). Adult birds primarily forage on seeds, nuts, fruits, tubers, and leaves. In the Peloncillo Mountains of New Mexico, the most utilized food items for Gould’s turkey include juniper, piñon pine, oaks, manzanita, grape, and various grasses or forbs, with fruits and grasses being the most preferred items throughout the year (NMDGF 2017). Typical predators of the Gould’s turkey in Arizona and New Mexico include bobcat, mountain lion, coatimundi, black bear, coyote, and grey fox (NMDGF 2017).

Range and habitat of the Gould’s wild turkey

Like the Merriam’s turkey, the Gould’s turkey prefers mountain habitats, which are often quite dry and rugged. In the U.S., Gould’s turkeys are found in the Animas and San Luis mountains of New Mexico and in the Peloncillo Mountains of New Mexico and Arizona (Kennamer 2009). Gould’s typically occupy mountain ranges with elevations between 4,500 and 6,500 feet above sea level in the U.S. and elevations above 9,800 feet in Mexico (Kennamer 2009).

Gould’s turkey habitat is often located in rugged terrain with steep and rocky canyons (Kennamer 2009). Similar to Merriam’s turkeys, mixed pine and oak (e.g., evergreen oak, juniper, piñon pine, and Chihuahuan pine) forested canyons and slopes are often used, as well as open woodland/savanna habitats and riparian areas dominated by cottonwood and sycamore trees (NMDGF 2017). Riparian areas provide water and tall trees for roosting, while the nearby oaks provide hard mast (acorns) in the fall.

Conservation issues with the Gould’s wild turkey

The Gould’s turkey population is very limited within the United States. Hunting by early settlers and miners between the Civil War and World War I drastically reduced populations by the time of the first legal hunting season in 1929 (AGFD 2018). The Gould’s turkey is threatened in New Mexico, and the primary threats and limiting factors there include habitat destruction (due to wildfires, overgrazing by livestock, or harvest of fuelwood and beargrass), a lack of reliable water sources, genetic issues (e.g., inbreeding, hybridization with non-native turkeys, etc.), or poaching (NMDGF 2017). It is likely that these same risks threaten populations in Arizona and Mexico.

Hunting opportunities for the Gould’s wild turkey

The Gould’s turkey historically occurred throughout Arizona and New Mexico as they currently do. However, their range has been drastically reduced to the southeast and southwest corners, respectively, of these two states. If you want to hunt these birds in the U.S., you need to be in one of these areas.

In Arizona, fewer than 100 Gould’s permits are sold for turkey hunting. In New Mexico (where the Gould’s turkey is threatened), the state has determined that only a very limited hunt can occur and only two permits are sold. The New Mexico Department of Game and Fish (NMDGF) and National Wild Turkey Federation (NWTF) sell one Gould’s turkey enhancement permit at an auction and raffle the second permit off. The funds raised from these two enhancement permits are utilized solely for the management of the Gould’s subspecies. While the New Mexico turkey season dates are shown in the table below, any consecutive 30 day period from April 15 to May 10 in 2021 can be authorized for the Gould’s turkey hunt.

Spring 2021 Gould’s turkey seasons

(Last updated February 8th, 2021)

* Varies by unit click on state for details** Some or all permits maybe subject to drawing

Similar to Merriam’s, start your hunt by looking for mature oak and pine trees along steep slopes and canyons. Then locate open meadows and water sources nearby, which will all be attractive to the turkeys as strutting and roosting areas. Set up quietly along one of the meadows or water sources early in the morning and start calling towards the trees. With a little luck, you can harvest one of these rare turkeys.

Remember that your hunting license dollars support the continued management and habitat work that is so critical to saving the Gould’s subspecies here in our country. Hunting is conservation at work.

Osceola Wild Turkey (Meleagris gallopavo osceola) – A Wild Turkey Profile

Rio Grande Wild Turkey (Meleagris gallopavo intermedia)

Eastern Wild Turkey (Meleagris gallopavo silvestris) – A Wild Turkey Profile

In the vast expanse of the animal kingdom, power is often exemplified not just by size or speed but by the sheer force of an animal’s bite. This force, a lethal combination of anatomy and strength, defines an apex predator’s ability to capture and consume prey, assert dominance, and even defend territory.

Among the impressive list of creatures with formidable jaws, the lion, often dubbed the ‘King of Beasts,’ holds a respectable position. But where exactly does this majestic big cat stand in the rankings of the strongest bite forces in the animal world?

What is Bite Force, Exactly?

At its core, bite force is a measure of the pressure exerted by an animal’s jaws when biting down. Think of it like the pressure one might feel when pressing down on something using one’s hand, but in the case of animals, particularly with powerful jaws, this pressure is exponentially greater and can be the difference between life and death in the wild.

This force is often measured in units called PSI (pounds per square inch) or kg/cm², which gives an understanding of how much force is applied over a particular area.

Several factors play a crucial role in determining an animal’s bite force. The jaw structure is paramount; the mechanical advantage provided by the length and shape of the jaws, along with the placement of the teeth, can significantly impact bite power. Next, muscle power is essential.

Strong, robust muscles surrounding the jaw allow for a more forceful clampdown. Finally, the teeth anatomy complements bite force. In lions, for instance, their long and sharp canine teeth are designed to pierce and hold, while their carnassial teeth at the back help in shearing flesh off the bone.

The Lion’s Bite Force: Numbers and Comparisons

When it comes to raw power, the lion’s bite force is a force to be reckoned with. Adult male lions have a bite force that averages around 650 PSI (or approximately 45.86 kg/cm²). To put this in perspective, it’s a force more than enough to crush a human skull or snap a spine. However, as with many things in nature, everything is relative.

Compared to other animals, especially other big cats, the lion’s bite isn’t the strongest, but it’s specifically adapted for its hunting needs and lifestyle. For example, the jaguar, renowned for its ability to pierce through skulls and turtle shells, has a bite force even stronger than that of a lion.

To offer a clearer picture, let’s compare the lion’s bite force with other big cats and notable African savannah predators:

Comparison Table: Bite Force Among Various Animals

It’s evident from the table that while the lion’s bite is formidable, some animals, particularly the crocodile and jaguar, possess even more powerful jaws. However, it’s crucial to remember that bite force is only one aspect of an animal’s hunting and defensive capabilities.

Anatomy Behind the Bite

A closer look at the lion’s anatomy reveals why it possesses such a powerful bite. The lion’s skull is robust, with a broad muzzle providing ample space for large jaw muscles. The temporalis and masseter muscles, primarily responsible for the up and down movement of the jaw, are well-developed in lions, allowing them to exert immense pressure when they bite.

Furthermore, a lion’s canine teeth, measuring up to 10 cm in length, are not just for show. These sharp, conical teeth are designed to pierce deeply into the flesh, effectively clamping onto prey. Once the lion has a firm grip, its powerful neck muscles come into play, allowing it to drag or even suffocate larger prey.

Behind the canines, the carnassial teeth play a critical role. These are specialized molars and premolars that work like scissors, cutting flesh as the lion chews, ensuring that meat is sheared off the bone and consumed efficiently.

All these anatomical adaptations combined, from the skull structure to the muscle placement and teeth design, make the lion’s bite a potent tool, tailored for its life in the wild.

Why is a Strong Bite Crucial for Lions?

A potent bite is more than just a show of strength for lions; it’s a survival tool. In the unforgiving landscapes of the African savannah and the limited regions of India where Asiatic lions reside, every hunt counts.

A lion’s strong bite ensures it can efficiently penetrate the thick hides of its prey, typically large ungulates like wildebeest or zebra. Once the lion latches onto its prey, the bite force aids in suffocating it, a common technique employed by these big cats.

Beyond hunting, a robust bite plays a crucial role in the social dynamics of lion prides. Males frequently spar for dominance and control over a pride, and in these disputes, displaying a powerful bite can be a deterrence or a weapon.

Additionally, territorial clashes between different prides or nomadic lions can get fierce, with bite force playing a significant role in establishing dominance and securing territories.

Bite Force vs. Killing Technique

While the bite force of a lion is certainly impressive, it’s only a part of the equation when it comes to hunting success. Lions, unlike some other big cats, often rely on teamwork and strategy. Once prey is isolated and ambushed, lions use their weight and strength to knock it down.

The actual killing technique usually involves suffocating the prey by biting down on its throat or sometimes its mouth and nose, cutting off air supply. This method contrasts, for instance, with jaguars that employ their superior bite force to pierce the skull or brain of their prey, ensuring a quick kill.

Similarly, cheetahs, despite having a weaker bite force compared to lions, rely on their unmatched speed and agility to chase down prey, using their bite to strangle and incapacitate.

It’s evident that while bite force is a significant factor, the technique and strategy employed are just as crucial, if not more, in determining hunting success.

Frequently Asked Questions

Learn More About Lions

• Lion: Characteristics, Diet, Facts & More [Fact Sheet]
• Lion Teeth: Nature’s Deadly Arsenal
• Lion vs. Elephant: Interactions & Confrontations of Two Heavyweights
• Lion vs. Crocodile: Confronting Two of Nature’s Titans
• Mountain Lion vs. Lion: Main Differences & Who Would Win a Fight?
• Lion vs. Lioness – How Do They Differ and What Are Their Roles in The Pride?
• Komodo Dragon vs. Lion: Detailed Comparison & Who Would Win a Fight?
• Lion Sleep Patterns: How Many Hours Do Lions Sleep?
• Are White Lions Real? Do They Occur in the Wild?
• Rhino vs. Lion: A Colossal Confrontation

We’ve all experienced it. We head to the grocery store to pick up a few things, only to see that there’s a sale on our favorite meats. If you’re like many people who love a good sale, you stock your cart with raw chicken, steak, or even breakfast meats in an effort to save yourself both time and money in the long run. And in the midst of grabbing as many packs as you possibly can, you think to yourself: “How long can meat stay safely frozen?” And, “Does frozen meat go bad?”

Whether you ask these questions in-store or at home when shuffling through your freezer and finding a tucked away pack of steaks, the topic of frozen meats is one that may deliver different answers depending on who you ask. But we’re here to finally put the question to rest, as the USDA states that as long as all foods are stored at 0 °F or lower in your freezer, they are safe to eat indefinitely.

It’s important to note, though, that while food stored constantly at 0 °F will always be safe, the quality of the food once defrosted can still suffer over time. It may not make you sick, but it won’t necessarily taste like freshly-cooked meat, either.

So, to help you stay on track and make sure you’re making the most of your freezer space, we’ve broken down what you should keep in mind when it comes to freezing both raw and cooked meat, poultry, seafood, and more.

How to safely store meat in the freezer

If you’ve decided to place your meat in the freezer, ensuring that you’re doing it the right way is the first step to maximizing freshness. As the USDA notes, you want to remember that the quality of your meat at the time of freezing determines its frozen state condition. If you can’t use it quickly, freeze items sooner rather than later. Food frozen at peak quality will taste better once thawed than foods “frozen near the end of their useful life,” according to USDA food safety guidelines.

While lengthy freezer storage can affect the quality of any food, it’s also worth noting that raw meat and poultry maintain their quality longer than cooked meat and poultry do. This is because of the moisture lost during the cooking process. Either way, once it’s in the freezer, you want to ensure that all foods are stored at 0 °F or lower to retain the color, vitamin content, texture, and — of course — flavor. Freezing to 0 °F also inactivates any microbes — meaning bacteria, yeasts, and molds — that may be in food.

But what about actually storing meat? Can it be tucked away in its original packaging? The simple answer to that is yes, it is safe to freeze your meat and poultry in the original packaging. If you plan to keep your meat or poultry frozen in its original package for a longer period of time (more than two months) or happen to see a tear in its original packaging, however, the FDA notes that you’ll want to overwrap the packages with airtight plastic wrap, freezer paper, or heavy-duty foil, or simply place the package inside of a plastic bag.

Can meat go bad in the freezer?

Freezing meat is a simple and effective way to stock up on your protein of choice, and meat doesn’t technically “go bad” while in the freezer. As the USDA website states, “Because freezing keeps food safe almost indefinitely, recommended storage times are for quality only.” So, here are a few things to keep in mind to help determine the quality of your meat once unfrozen.

How to defrost meat safely

Keep in mind that your thawing process affects the freshness of your meat, too. As the USDA cautions, never thaw foods out on the kitchen counter or in your garage, basement, car, outdoors, or on the porch. Any of these methods can make your food unsafe to eat. There are three safe ways to thaw frozen foods. The first and most recommended is slow, safe thawing in the refrigerator — overnight or over a day or two, depending on the size. A quicker method is to put your meat in a leak-proof plastic bag and let it sit, fully immersed, in cold water. After thawing in cold water, cook immediately. Finally, you can defrost food using the microwave, but again, plan to then cook it immediately. Also, when microwaving to defrost, the food can actually start to cook in some areas.

Is freezer burnt meat safe to eat?

Contrary to popular belief, if your meat (or frozen food in general) develops freezer burn, it’s actually not unsafe to eat. It may not taste great, but just cut the freezer-burned areas off either pre- or post-cooking and enjoy the remainder of your meal. If it is heavily freezer-burned though, the quality will most likely be compromised and you may want to toss it.

How long does meat last in the freezer?

To reiterate, since freezing your food at 0 °F or below keeps it safe pretty much indefinitely, you can defrost and eat any frozen meats or poultry (that has been stored correctly) at any given time. That doesn’t mean, however, that its quality will stay good forever. For the best quality, the FDA recommends that you consume frozen meats, poultry, and seafood within the following timeframes:

Beef, Lamb, Pork, and Veal

If you plan to stock up on fresh meats like beef, lamb, pork, or veal anytime soon, you’ll want to know that — depending on the cut of meat — they can retain their quality in the freezer for months on end. Steak, particularly, is recommended to stay frozen for six to 12 months, while chops have a recommended freezer life of four to six months. Roasts on the other hand, can still offer a quality taste after being frozen from four to 12 months. Other meats like tongue, liver, and chitterlings only retain their quality for three to four months.

Processed pork — such as bacon and sausage (whether pork, chicken, or turkey), hot dogs, and lunch meats — tastes best when kept frozen for one to two months, while raw hamburger, ground, and stew meats can last between three to four months.

Poultry

Like the above, fresh poultry items have a timeframe for the quality of freshness, too — but it depends on which part of the poultry you’re freezing. If freezing whole chicken or turkey, it can last in your freezer for up to one year. Chicken and turkey parts can last for nine months while giblets are suggested to be stored for a shorter time span of three to four months.

Fish and Shellfish

As fish and shellfish include multiple options, the time span of their quality differs, too. Lean fish can stay in your freezer for six to eight months, while fatty fish is recommended to stay tucked away for two to three months. The FDA recommends consuming frozen cooked fish within four to six months, and smoked fish within two months. And finally, fresh shrimp, scallops, crawfish, and squid can stay in your freezer and retain their quality for three to six months.

Cooked and Leftover Meats

If you’re left with an overflow of cooked meats after a delicious meal, don’t worry; those can be frozen, too. The FDA also says that meat leftovers — including cooked meat, meat dishes, and gravy and meat broth — can all be stored for two to three months in your freezer. Cooked poultry on the other hand, depends on what you’ve cooked. Fried chicken and plain, cooked pieces of chicken can last for four months; cooked poultry dishes for four to six months; meats covered with broth or gravy up to six months; and lastly, cooked chicken nuggets and patties for one to three months.

Ultimately though, no matter what type of meat or poultry you choose to freeze, if it is thawed in the refrigerator, you’re safe to refreeze it without cooking it. As the USDA cautions, though, any foods left outside the refrigerator for longer than a two hour time span (or a single hour in temperatures above 90 °F), should not be refrozen.

Ready to cook up some of that meat and poultry from your freezer while it will still taste its best? Get some inspiration from our lists of light dinner ideas, easy chicken dinner recipes, and ground beef recipes for busy weeknights.