I often get questions from readers concerning what elk habitat looks like, where do elk like to hang out and which terrain they like during different seasons of the year. When I moved to Colorado more than a decade ago, I had to learn a new way of hunting since I was a whitetail hunter from the South. This “elk” was a different sort. They seemed to have no pattern, they did not seem to haunt the same one square mile that my southern bucks lived in, and they did not play by the “rules” I had learned as a deer hunter. Well, the elk were set in their ways, and it seemed that I was the one who had to change so I went to class and began to learn why elk did what elk did.

I recommend reading this lesson and digesting the points that Chad makes about what elk eat, where they like to live, and what they do when they get pressure from weather or hunters. Next, take out your maps of the game management units you want to hunt and read “Putting It All Together”. Find the places Chad describes on your map. After doing this, you will be able to look at maps or aerial photos of an area and narrow big elk country into a more manageable hunt area. -Jim

Understanding Elk in ColoradoBy Chad J. Bishop, PhD.

As hunters, we commonly seek out information on the animals we hunt in hopes it will explain exactly when and where to find them. We quickly learn, time and again, it’s not that simple. All too often, we find that what works one time fails miserably the next, and we can go from a state of euphoria to desperation in the course of just a few hunts. Much of this inconsistency can be attributed to variability in animal behavior, weather, and habitat conditions. Over time, however, we gradually improve our hunting skills by combining our understanding of the animals with lessons learned from our many hunting experiences. Thus, it is beneficial to understand the ecology of the animals we pursue, as long as we keep our expectations in check and appreciate that the systems we hunt can be extremely variable. My objective here is to present a basic picture of elk ecology in Colorado. My hope is to give the novice elk hunter a better idea of where to begin and to help the seasoned hunter make a little more sense out of past experiences afield.

What do elk eat?

Elk are herbivores capable of consuming diverse diets of grasses, forbs, and shrubs. The term forb refers to any broad-leaved herbaceous plant that is not a grass. Forbs are an important dietary component of elk and other wild ungulates and have high nutritional value during the growing season. Elk eat green grasses and forbs during the growing season but also commonly eat cured grasses and forbs during the winter. When elk and other ungulates eat shrubs, they typically select the tips of branches which comprise the current year’s growth and offer the most nutrients.

It may be easiest to explain elk diets by contrasting them to those of some other common herbivores.

• ​Deer, for example, are often referred to as browsers because much of their diet is comprised of shrubs.
• Cattle and sheep, on the other hand, are commonly referred to as grazers because they consume large quantities of grass.

The distinction between deer and livestock arises from physiological differences in the proportional sizes of their rumens (i.e., stomach) and in their associated digestive strategies. Elk are considered intermediate to deer and cattle/sheep, which means elk are better adapted to grass diets than deer yet are capable of consuming relatively large amounts of browse. Therefore, elk should be capable of meeting their nutritional requirements across a greater spectrum of habitat conditions than deer or livestock as long as adequate forage quantities are available.

This basic knowledge of elk diets is useful for understanding why elk occur where they do. At a broad scale, elk can successfully occupy a diversity of habitats across Colorado because they are foraging generalists and are adaptable. You can find elk just about anywhere in Colorado west of Interstate 25. At a finer scale, we expect to find more elk where there is a greater abundance of grasses, forbs and shrubs, collectively referred to as “understory” in forested habitats.

In sagebrush and mountain shrub habitats, understory typically refers to the abundance of grasses and forbs only. Using this information, you can begin to visualize more-productive and less-productive habitats based on the amount of vegetation covering the ground. For example, in conifer forests, elk seek out and feed in recently-burned areas, areas with beetle killed over-story, or small clear-cuts because these sites provide greater amounts of quality forage than the understory of a mature forest. When mature trees have been removed, grass, forb, and shrub species capitalize on the released nutrients and dominate the site until the forest regenerates. In such instances, elk utilize the mature forest primarily for cover and move into the openings to forage, typically during morning and evening. As a general rule, habitat types with greater understory will be preferred by elk.

Elk Habitat Use

Elk utilize most habitat types occurring in western Colorado at some point during the year. However, some habitat types are far more productive than others. Arguably, the most productive habitat for elk is aspen. Aspen typically has extremely productive understory and supports large numbers of elk. It is likely no coincidence that Colorado has both more aspen and more elk than any other western state or province.

Other extremely productive habitats that commonly occur in proximity to aspen are oakbrush and mountain shrub. Oakbrush habitat provides food and a good source of cover. It is not uncommon for elk to spend their days in oakbrush during hunting season because it provides great security. Oakbrush can be very difficult to hunt because it is thickly vegetated and difficult to quietly stalk through. Hunters that learn how to hunt oakbrush effectively, however, are often rewarded.Perhaps the best combination of habitat for elk is mosaics of aspen, oakbrush, and mountain shrub, which provide optimal forage and cover. Aspen is also commonly located in proximity to conifer habitats. Spruce-fir forests with intermingled aspen stands are another example of prime elk habitat. The spruce-fir forest provides cover and the aspen understory provides a source of quality forage. Generally speaking, large tracts of mature conifer forest are not that productive for elk because they have limited understory. Ponderosa pine forests can be an exception because they often support a relatively robust, herbaceous understory, and, therefore, can be quite productive for elk, particularly along the front range of Colorado where there is less aspen and oakbrush.As mentioned above, spruce-fir forests provide a good source of cover and are valuable when adjacent to more productive habitats. Lodgepole pine forests are typically unproductive and of utility to elk only when adjacent to other habitat or when used as escape cover from hunting pressure. As a general rule, the utility of conifer forests depends heavily on how much they are intermixed with meadows or other habitats. The exception to that rule is in October when forage in meadows and more open aspen stands has cured while forage in the conifer understory is still green and lush. Elk may not venture out in the open if the forage and security are better in coniferous forests.Alpine habitats, above treeline, offer a productive habitat for elk during summer and early fall and can be heavily utilized by elk. Alpine habitat can offer good hunting opportunities during early-fall hunting seasons, particularly if adjacent conifer habitat is not very productive. Hunting pressure and frost both make the alpine less appealing as fall advances. At the other extreme, elk can be found in pinyon-juniper and lower-elevation sagebrush habitats, particularly later in the season as elk move to lower elevations.

Elk Migratory Behavior

Most elk utilize different areas during summer and winter and spend variable amounts of time transitioning between the two areas during the spring and fall. Thus, biologists refer to three major types of ungulate use areas: summer, transition, and winter range. Summer range typically includes the highest elevation elk habitats, transition range encompasses mid-elevation habitats, and winter range encompasses the lowest elevations. As with anything, there are exceptions to the rules. Elk habitat use and migratory behavior is heavily driven by weather. In mild years, some elk will remain at high elevations late into the fall and may spend winter at higher elevations on south-facing slopes that remain largely free of snow. In years with severe fall or winter weather, nearly all elk will migrate down to low elevations to seek forage and escape deep snow.

Migratory behavior is an important concept for hunters. Generally speaking, most elk will be at higher elevations (i.e., summer range) during archery and muzzleloader seasons and usually first rifle season in Colorado. In mild years, elk will remain at high elevations throughout the second rifle season and occasionally into the third season in many areas. This explains why CPW field personnel commonly refer to elk being located in dark timber during mild hunting seasons, and therefore, difficult to find. In contrast, when significant fall snowstorms occur, many elk will move to transition and winter ranges as early as second rifle season, which typically makes them more vulnerable.

Elk Response to Disturbance

It is well-documented that elk alter their movement patterns in response to human-related disturbance. For example, a number of studies have demonstrated that elk tend to avoid roads2, 3, 4, 5 and that their survival declines as density of roads increases because of increasing vulnerability2, 6, 7, 8. During hunting season, elk will often seek out refuge on private lands or national parks where there is little or no hunting. In the White River National Forest in northwest Colorado, the opening day of archery season caused elk to move from public to private land9,10. Similarly, in the San Luis Valley in south-central Colorado, elk moved into Great Sand Dunes National Park in response to the opening of archery season11. Opening of rifle seasons are thought to cause additional shifts by elk away from public land to secure areas. Generally speaking, elk are adept at seeking out refuges to escape hunting pressure and will move many miles to do so.

The above information explains why hunters with access to private lands that are managed for limited hunting typically do well. Likewise, hunters gaining access to limited-harvest units by using preference points also fare well. However, most hunters do not have access to these optimal hunting situations during most years. For public-land hunters in over-the-counter units, efforts to get away from roads generally pay off. There tend to be fewer hunters and more elk in more remote areas. It is also helpful to obtain maps showing secondary roads, terrain features and public/private land ownership to evaluate where elk may be more likely to move in response to disturbance. If you lack the ability to hunt in remote areas, getting off the road even a short distance and still-hunting on foot can greatly increase your opportunities. It is not uncommon for animals to bed down in thick cover near roads and not be disturbed, even as hunters pass by on the road throughout the day. When hunting roaded areas, it is often helpful to identify patches of heavy cover where it appears elk might bed down to avoid being disturbed.

Putting It All Together

Many hunters know the general location they intend to hunt based on past experience, contacts, recommendations, etc. However, if you’re new to Colorado elk hunting, there are a few things worth considering:

• Colorado’s largest elk herds occur west of the Continental Divide.

• Colorado’s highest elk densities generally occur in association with aspen, oakbrush, and mountain shrub habitats.

• Public-land hunting opportunities span everything from remote wilderness areas to heavily-roaded forests and rangelands.

Once you’ve determined the general location you plan to hunt, the next consideration is when you plan to hunt. If you plan to hunt early in the season (e.g., late August through mid-October), a majority of elk are likely to be at higher elevations. If you plan to hunt later (e.g., late October through December), elk are likely to be mid-slope or even down on winter range just above the valley floors or plains. Many rifle hunters head to the field in late October and early November. At this time of year, maintaining flexibility with your hunting plans can be an effective strategy. Elk can be anywhere on the mountain depending on weather events, and it is best not to lock yourself in to exclusively hunting one spot. Elk are large, herd animals that leave abundant sign. If you’re not seeing evidence in your primary area, it’s advisable to seek out other areas.

After deciding when to hunt and factoring in weather, the next step is to evaluate habitat in terms of forage, security cover, and roads. As a recap, elk prefer habitats with abundant understory, which typically include aspen, oakbrush, and mountain shrub habitats. These habitat types are often intermixed with, or adjacent to, conifer forest. Areas with mosaics of aspen, shrub, and conifer are preferable to large, unbroken expanses of spruce-fir habitat, for example. During hunting season, in particular, elk will tend to avoid roads and place a heavier emphasis on seeking out security cover or refuge areas. It is useful to consider the spatial arrangement of public and private land parcels on the landscape you intend to hunt. If public-private parcels are intermixed, hunting public land near private land may be advantageous as animals will likely move between private and public land in that scenario. On the other hand, hunting public land adjacent to large blocks of private land with minimal hunting pressure will be less ideal. In Colorado, it is the hunter’s responsibility to know land ownership boundaries and not trespass, even where private land is not fenced or signed.

Ultimately, these various considerations should help you assess the overall landscape you intend to hunt: Is there ample forage and security cover? Are you far enough away from potential refuge areas (e.g., large blocks of private land, National Parks) such that elk will likely remain on public land even when pressured by hunters? If so, where are elk likely to go when pressured? What are the relative road densities across the landscape? Are there “holes” that you can access? When you factor in all these considerations, it should be possible to assess a large landscape and identify specific spots to hunt. In summary, areas to select are those that provide abundant forage, ample security cover, fewer roads, and do not have obvious refuges.

​References

1. Hofmann, R. R. 1989. Evolutionary steps of ecophysiological adaptation and diversification of ruminants: a comparative view of their digestive system. Oecologia 78:443-457.

2. Cole, E. K., M. D. Pope, and R. G. Anthony. 1997. Effects of road management on movement and survival of Roosevelt elk. Journal of Wildlife Management 61:1115-1126.

3. Lyon, L. 1979. Habitat effectiveness for elk as influenced by roads and cover. Journal of Forestry 77:658-660.

4. Rost, G. R., and J. A. Bailey. 1979. Distribution of mule deer and elk in relation to roads. Journal of Wildlife Management 43:634-641.

5. Rowland, M. M., M. J. Wisdom, B. K. Johnson, and J. G. Kie. 2000. Elk distribution and modeling in relation to roads. Journal of Wildlife Management 64:672-684.

6. Hayes, S. G., D. J. Leptich, and P. Zager. 2002. Proximate factors affecting male elk hunting mortality in northern Idaho. Journal of Wildlife Management 66:491-499.

7. McCorquodale, S. M., R. Wiseman, and C. Les Marcum. 2003. Survival and harvest vulnerability of elk in the Cascade Range of Washington. Journal of Wildlife Management 67:248-257.

8. Unsworth, J. W., L. Kuck, M. D. Scott, and E. O. Garton. 1993. Elk mortality in the Clearwater Drainage of northcentral Idaho. Journal of Wildlife Management 57:495-502.

9. Conner, M. M., G. C. White, and D. J. Freddy. 2001. Elk movements in response to early-season hunting in northwest Colorado. Journal of Wildlife Management 65:926-940.

10. Vieira, M. E. P., M. M. Conner, G. C. White, and D. J. Freddy. 2003. Effects of archery hunter numbers and opening dates on elk movement. Journal of Wildlife Management 67:717-728.

11. Davidson, G. A. 2007. Analyzing elk movements and distributions in Colorado using generalized linear models. Thesis, Colorado State University, Fort Collins, USA.

Below we review the best spotting scopes for birding and wildlife viewing for 2024 by price range:

• Super-Budget (Under $200)
• Budget (Under $500)
• Semi-Budget ($500-$1,000)
• Mid-Priced ($1,000-$2,000)
• Best of the Best (over $2,000)

Don’t Get a Spotting Spotting Scope for Less Than $100!

Just one thing before we proceed…

I plead with you not to buy a spotting scope for birding/wildlife viewing that is priced less than $100.

They will cause you eye strain and even worse, severe frustration.

Cheap scopes may be good for looking at an elephant 100 yards away or to see your 22 cal bullet holes in your paper target at the range, but they are not made for bird watching.

You’re better off just looking through your binoculars than using such a scope.

One exception would be for someone who just wants to look at backyard birds from their deck and/or take photos of them and doesn’t want to hold binoculars.

Good. Now that I got that off my chest, we can proceed.

Straight or Angled?

Most of the scopes listed below come in both angled and straight models.

Its up to you and the kind of viewing you mostly do.

Click here for reviewing the pros and cons of Angled or Straight bird watching spotting scopes.

Also, most scope models are available in several different objective lens sizes. It all depends on your personal needs.

Click here to review objective lens sizes for bird watching spotting scopes.

Best Super-Budget Spotting Scope (Under $200)

Celestron 80mm Ultima Zoom Spotting Scope

The Celestron Ultima Zoom Spotting Scope is an refractor-style scope with an 80mm objective lens with built-in zoom from 20x-60x.

It comes in both straight and angled designs (see all listings below).

If you want an entry-level scope, this is a very good choice.

The only drawback is that the scope does not have the more expensive ED glass which helps prevent blue fringing at the higher magnification.

• Multi-coated optics
• Waterproof
• Eyecup can be removed to attach a camera on standard T-Thread
• 45 degree angled eyepiece supports shorter tripod if needed
• Lightweight at 3.6 pounds
• Comes with padded carrying case that has access zippers on both ends of scope so you can use the scope without removing the case

The Celestron Ultima also has other options available such as a 65mm (cheaper) and 100mm (more expensive) objective lens and also comes in both angled and straight models for each of the sizes.

Objective Lens Size

The bigger the objective lens, the greater the light-gathering capacity of the scope, but it also increases the weight.

If you do a lot of low-light birding (i.e., at dawn and dusk, in cloudy locations, etc.) then you may want to get the 100mm size.

But for most conditions, the 80mm will be plenty. We wouldn’t recommend getting the 65mm in this scope since this is a lower-end scope without premium optics.

Also, Celestron states “The Ultima 80 mm offers a step up in aperture from the 65 mm, offering 50% brighter images.” 50% is quite significant and I think worth the extra cost.

You can review more about objective lens sizes here.

And again, if you’re not sure if you want a straight or angled scope, read our quick tips here about choosing scope body design.

-> View the Celestron Ultima Spotting Scope

Here are all the Celestron Ultima model choices in angled and straight bodies with either the 80mm or 100mm objective lens.

Best Budget Spotting Scope (Under $500)

Vortex Diamondback 20-60×80 Spotting Scope

The Diamondback is an exceptional scope at this price point. It is Vortex’s lowest-price model compared to the Viper HD and Razor HD spotting scopes.

The Vortex Diamondback line comes in both straight and angled models in both 60 mm and 80 mm objective lens sizes.

It is a full-sized scope in a compact design, weighing less than most spotting scopes in this size at only 33.8 oz and 47.1 oz for the 60 mm and 80 mm lenses, respectively.

We recommend the 80mm lens which will always give you that added brightness edge, especially valued in low-light conditions.

And not for nothing, we really love the view-through case that actually is easy to use and view-through because of its generous-fitting design.

• Full XR multicoated optics
• Dielectric prism coatings for improved brightness
• ArmorTek scratch-resistant coating
• O-ring sealed and nitrogen-purged – waterproof and fogproof

We also love Vortex’s Warranty:

~Vortex VIP Warranty~

Lifetime. Unlimited. Unconditional.

Vortex will repair or replace the product in the event it becomes damaged or defective.

Absolutely free—no matter the cause!

-> View Vortex Diamondback HD Spotting Scope

Vanguard Endeavor HD 20-60x65mm Spotting Scope

The Vanguard Endeavor HD Spotting Scope is an amazing bird watching scope for its size and price in the under $500 price range.

Birders have been impressed with this one and love that it’s light and compact for on-the-go birding adventures.

Features include:

• ED Extra-Low dispersion glass virtually eliminates color fringing
• Fully multi-coated optical system with improved coatings gives high light transmission rate
• Rubber armored magnesium housing for lightweight and durability
• Retractable sunshade with peep sight
• Eyepiece and deluxe scope coat included
• Fully waterproof (submersible) and fog proof – nitrogen filled body & eyepiece
• Phase coated Bak4 prisms for high resolution
• Detachable eyepiece with 20-60x zoom with retractable eyecup and up to 20mm of eye relief
• Available digiscoping adapter allows use of the scope as a super telephoto lens

65mm or 82mm Objective Lens?

The Vanguard Endeavor comes in both 65mm and 82mm sizes.

Unless you plan to do a lot of digiscoping or will often be in low-light conditions, we think the 65mm objective lens is suitable for most birding situations, especially with the ED and multi-coated glass.

This smaller lens and resulting lighter weight will also be appreciated by those who plan to carry it a lot.

-> View the Vanguard Endeavor HD Scope

Best Semi-Budget Spotting Scope ($500-$1,000)

Celestron Regal M2 20-60x80ED Spotting Scope

If you can afford a $500+ scope, the Celestron Regal M2 80ED Spotting Scope is well worth the investment with ED glass, XLT multi-coated optics, and a magnesium alloy lightweight, yet very durable body.

• Extra-Low Dispersion (ED) glass minimizes chromatic aberration, increases resolution and contrast, and provides color fidelity
• Proprietary XLT (Fully Mulit-Coated) lens coatings maximize light transmission for bright, sharp images
• Magnesium allow body – lightweight yet strong – decreases overall weight by 14% compared to previous model
• Fully waterproof and nitrogen purged to prevent fogging
• Upgraded dual focus mechanism – can focus on objects 2x faster
• T-Ring and T-Adapter for attaching your camera for digiscoping

Celestron Regal M2 80ED Spotting Scope Overview

-> View the Celestron Regal MD 80ED Spotting Scope

Best Mid-Priced Spotting Scope ($1,000-$2,000)

Vortex 20-60×85 Razor HD Spotting Scope

The Vortex 20-60×85 Razor HD Angled Spotting Scope is a high-quality bird watching spotting scope and an excellent value at that in this price range.

• Premium Extra-Low Dispersion (ED) glass for exceptional viewing in low light conditions.
• Ultra-hard coated Armor Tek protects exterior lenses from scratches, oil and dirt
• Dielectric prism coatings provide the clearest, brightest, most color-accurate images
• Proprietary XR anti-reflective coatings increase light transmissions for maximum brightness
• Triplet apochromatic lens reduces chromatic aberration.
• Porro prism offers maximum image quality and performance
• Waterproof O-ring sealed optics keeps out dust and debris
• Fogproof – argon gas purged

-> View the Vortex Razor HD Scope

Best of the Best Spotting Scope (over $2,000)

Kowa TSN-800 Series Prominar Pure Fluorite Spotting Scope

The Kowa TSN-800 Series is one of the best bird watching spotting scopes money can buy.

The TSN-883 is the angled body model, TSN-884 is the straight body model.

Crystal clear clarity from Kowa’s unique Prominar pure fluorite crystal lenses is just the beginning.

• The combination of the ultra-low dispersion pure fluorite crystal paired with a concave lens provides stunningly bright razor sharp images, minimizing chromatic aberrations (color fringing), image fuzziness and extended twilight and low light performance
• Dual Focus: Quick & Fine focusing. Quick will focus from infinity to five meters in 2 revolutions. Fine is smooth with pinpoint accuracy for high magnification adjustments and for digiscoping
• Lightweight, compact design – the highly achromatized objective lens makes the scope as compact a 60mm scope without sacrificing performance
• Waterproof to JIS 7 protection class 7 (protects against effects of temporary immersion in water – aka, “Oops!” protection) and nitrogen purged to prevent fogging
• 3 eyepieces available: TE-11WZ (25-60x, wide zoom), TE-17W (30x, wide) TE-20H (25x, LER – long eye relief). There is an eyepiece locking mechanism to prevent accidental release. Note that the TE-11WZ has replaced the older TE-10Z (20-60x, zoom) model.

Kowa TSN-883 (Angled) and TSN-884 (Straight) Spotting Scopes Overview

Kowa TE-11WZ (25-60x, wide zoom) Eyepiece (Replaced TE-10Z)

Digiscoping with the Kowa TSN-883 Spotting Scope and TE-11WZ 25-60x Wide Angle Eyepiece

The stills and video below were shot using a Panasonic GH4 Micro Four Thirds 4K Camera.

The Kowa TSN-DA10 Micro Four Thirds Digiscoping System

The Kowa TSN-DA10 digiscoping adapter is made for Micro Four Thirds camera system bodies and Micro Four Third compact lenses up to 25mm focal length (full size) (50mm MFT equivalent) and can be combined with the Kowa TE-11WZ eyepiece.

• Set-up is simple (takes less than a minute) and you can easily switch between landscape and portrait positioning as well as quickly slide the adapter off for normal observation.
• The DA10 fits lenses with a 43mm filter thread. If your lens has a different size filter – simply add one of our adapter rings – AR28/30/30.5/37/43/46/52/55/58/62/72mm between your lens and the DA10.
• All camera functions remain including camera lens auto-focus and focus peaking.

Digiscoping with the Kowa TSN-883 Spotting Scope and iPhone 6S 4K Video

Even an iPhone delivers stunning footage and photographs through the Kowa-TSN 883.

Kowa TSN-800 Series Cost: $$$….

Seeing your life-bird as a crystal-clear, razor-sharp image, even in low light… Priceless!

-> View the Kowa-TSN 883/884 Prominar Spotting Scope

Recap

Below in the product widget are all of the best spotting scopes for birding (as well as for other outdoor wildlife viewing) in the 5 price ranges: Super-Budget, Budget, Semi-Budget, Mid-Priced and Best of the Best.

We also listed the Nikon Prostaff 5 Proscope 20-60×82 in the Semi-Budget range as a good second choice in that category. We have found that Amazon typically has the best prices, including shipping which is usually free.

Our overall advice: Buy the best spotting scope you can afford.

***NOTE: The Alpen Scopes are no longer available due to the company going out of business.***

→Our new pick in this price range is the Vortex Diamondback 20-60×80 Spotting Scope as noted above.

Or jump to the Semi-Budget Spotting Scope category.

Bird Watching Spotting Scopes FAQs

Is an Angled or Straight Spotting Scope Better?

It depends how you will primarily be using your spotting scope.

If you will be using your scope to spot things above the horizon, then looking into an angled cope will be more accomodating.

It’s also easier for groups of people of varying heights to use an angled scope.

However, a straight spotting scope can be easier to spot and follow moving objects and to use from an elevated position or when mounted on a car window. Angled vs straight spotting scopes.

What do Spotting Scope Numbers Mean?

A 20-60×80 spotting scope has a magnification range between 20-60 with a 80mm objective lens.

Larger spotting scope objective lenses provide more light, but will be heavier and more expensive.

In the next section below, we discuss these features in detail.

How Do I Choose a Spotting Scope?

In deciding how to choose a spotting scope, you should consider magnification, objective lens and exit pupil size, eyepieces, FOV, optical and body design, eye relief, focus mechanism, close focus distance, glass/prism quality, and weatherproofness.

Are Spotting Scopes Better than Binoculars?

No, they serve different functions.

Simply, if you want to see details on birds or other wildlife or any types of objects from a long distance, especially in low-light conditions, a spotting scope will give you an advantage over binoculars, unless you use high-powered binoculars that are either image-stabilized or with a tripod to help provide a steady image.

How do I choose a spotting scope for birding and other wildlife viewing?

Get a bird watching spotting scope that has at least an objective lens size of 60mm which will allow enough light to enter the scope, especially during low-light conditions.

If you want to take photos through your scope (Digiscoping), you may want a bigger ojective lense (85mm and up).

Most birders like a variable zoom lens (i.e., 20-60) vs a fixed magnification.

Best travel scope for birding?

If you are looking to get a more compact spotting scope for birding while traveling, the Celestron Hummingbird 9-27x56mm ED Micro Spotting Scope is a good choice weighing only 1.43 pounds and small enough to be carried in a coat pocket.

How to Choose a Spotting Scope

What are the best spotting scopes for birding and wildlife viewing?

Scopes can range in price from $200 to $2,000. So what’s the difference between a cheap scope and an expensive one?

Let’s start with the basics and then define and compare the different features of spotting scopes to help you decide on a purchase.

To help you with your purchase, we will discuss the following spotting scope features:

• Magnification
• Objective lens size
• Exit pupil size
• Eyepieces
• Field of view
• Optical design
• Body design
• Eye relief
• Focus mechanism
• Close focus
• Weatherproofness and
• Glass/prism quality

What is a spotting scope?

A spotting scope is a terrestrial telescope, compact and portable, designed for observing objects on or near the earth (as opposed to astronomy viewing).

Spotting scopes are essentially telescopes designed for birding or other nature observation.

How is a spotting scope different than an astronomy telescope?

A spotting scope typically has lower magnification, a wider field of view, is easily portable, field-durable and its prism provides a correctly oriented image.

Often, astronomy telescope images are upside down and reversed (mirror-image). No problem with stars, bad with birds.

It’s hard enough to ID right-side up birds. And a mirror image will just mess with your mind.

Try following a bird that looks like its moving right, when in reality it’s moving left.

Astronomy telescopes are typically designed with a longer focal length for higher magnifications, but smaller fields of view.

In birding, we don’t need astronomy-level magnification (100x+).

We like to see the details on the bird, but don’t need to see every hamuli of a feather.

And the wider field of view on spotting scopes is definitely an advantage for “spotting” the bird in the first place.

Conclusions:A good astronomy telescope won’t be good for bird watching and a birding scope won’t be good for astronomy.

You can certainly use your spotting scope to look at the night sky (good for Moon and stars), but if you really want to see spectacular details, then get an astronomy telescope. If you’re getting a telescope primarily for birding, get a spotting scope.

Why get a spotting scope? What are the advantages over binoculars?

Spotting scopes are for long-distance bird watching. They provide the magnification necessary to see distant birds and to admire details at closer ranges. They provide the means to identify birds beyond the reach of your binoculars.

Under low light conditions, scopes will give you a brighter, clearer image and the magnification needed to see more details.

All birding scopes will have a mounting plate to attach a tripod for stabilization at these higher magnifications.

There are times when your 7x-10x binoculars cannot get you close enough to see what you want.

It may be because you simply can’t get close enough with your binoculars such as viewing waterfowl in a lake, shorebirds in the mudflats, or cliff-nesting birds. Or perhaps you want a closer look, but don’t want to disturb the bird, especially sensitive species, say on a nest.

Or in open spaces, when trying to get close enough with binoculars will scare them away. With a spotting scope, you can admire birds from a distance.

Personally, we use spotting scopes often during the field season to make observations of nesting Golden Eagles and Prairie Falcons.

Many times we don’t even get out of the vehicle, but rather use a window mount to observe. We simply would not be able to observe certain adult and chick behaviors without a scope.

It’s also nice to have a spotting scope when birding in groups so that everyone can get a closer look. It’s a great way to share bird watching with beginners, especially young birders.

You can also record images and video with a spotting scope with either a regular telephoto 35mm camera, digital camera and/or video camera (see digiscoping).

Spotting Scope Features to Consider Before Purchasing

Magnification

In general, a good magnification range for your bird watching spotting scope is between 15-60x.

Below 15x, you might as well use your binoculars.

Above 60x, the field of view becomes too narrow and image brightness begins to dim, especially a problem in low light conditions.

Most often, 20-40x gives both the best field of view and image brightness for bird watching.

A point to remember: The higher the magnification, the larger the objective lens is needed to maintain image quality.

Additionally, any distortions (heat waves) or scope movement (tripod tremors) will be intensified at higher magnifications.

If you do want more magnification, remember that the quality of the lenses and prisms (which affects transmittance) become increasingly important.

Low quality lenses and prisms will produce low quality images, especially above 45x.

The highest useful magnification of your scope depends on the quality of the lenses and prisms, the objective lens size (discussed below), and outside conditions (low or bright light, haze, heat waves, etc.)

Objective Lens (Aperture)

The size of the objective lens determines the light-gathering capacity of a spotting scope.

More light = more clarity and detail which = a brighter, clearer image.

Aperture is defined as the diameter of the objective lens, usually measured in millimeters.

Bird watching objective lenses normally range between 50-80mm.

In general, a larger objective lens equals more weight and more $$.

When deciding on the objective size for your scope, get the largest objective you’re willing to pay for, but also willing to carry.

If you’re willing to carry a little extra weight, an 80mm objective lens will give you good images in nearly all light conditions, especially at higher magnifications. This is up to you.

Think about where and when you will be doing most of your birding.

If you live in Seattle (many cloudy days), go for the bigger objective lens.

If you live in a dry, sunny location, i.e. Arizona desert, and do most of your birding during the day (not dusk or dawn) and you want to carry something lighter, perhaps you could consider going a little smaller.

Exit Pupil

Along with objective lens size, the exit pupil is the best measure of image brightness.

The exit pupil is the diameter of light in millimeters visible through the eyepiece.

To calculate the exit pupil divide the objective lens size by magnification.

So the higher the magnification, the larger the objective lens needed to maintain image brightness.

As a general rule of thumb, try to get a scope where the exit pupil is 1.33mm or more.

Because in conditions besides optimal (bright, calm), an exit pupil below this will be insufficient, especially at higher magnifications.

So if you had a scope with a 20-60x zoom eyepiece, an 80mm objective lens would be suitable for all magnification ranges.

80mm (obj. lens size)/60 (highest magnification)= 1.33mm (exit pupil size).

However, a 50mm objective lens at 60x would give you an exit pupil of .83 mm (50/60=.83). Not as good, especially in lower light conditions.

Eyepieces

The eyepiece is what determines the magnification of your scope. It is also is a factor in determining field of view, exit pupil size, and eye relief.

Eyepieces sometimes are included with you scope but more often are sold separately.

Most scopes have interchangeable eyepieces, specific to manufacturer and line, allowing you to choose one or more that fits your preferences.

You can get either interchangeable fixed or single zoom (variable) eyepieces for your scope.

There are some spotting scopes, usually zooms or waterproof scopes, which have eyepieces that are non-interchangeable.

Zoom eyepieces have a range of magnification levels from low to high, usually 15-45x or 20-60x.

Birders find these very useful because they can scan at the lower magnification (wider field of view) to find the bird, then use the higher magnification to see details.

If most of your birding is done in wide open spaces, i.e. ocean seabird watching, hawk mountain ridges, then you may want to get a fixed wide-angle eyepiece which provides a wider field of view.

Or one with long eye relief (usually 25 or 27x) for those who wear eyeglasses. Or an eyepiece just for digiscoping.

Just remember to get a scope with an objective lens size that will be able to provide you with good images at all magnification ranges (review objective lens size and exit pupil size).

The quality of the eyepiece glass and design affects image quality as well. So selecting an eyepiece is just as important as selecting the scope body.

Note that manufacturers may have eyepieces that can only be used on one design line while other may be used on multiple lines.

You may want to consider this and see what eyepieces can be used on your scope if you plan on getting more than one.

Field of View

The linear field of view (FOV) is measured as the width of area visible at 1,000 yards (or meters) from the observer.

It can also be expressed in degrees as the angular field of view. Normally as magnification increases, field of view decreases.

In general, a wide field of view is better for following fast-moving objects or for scanning and finding birds in the scope.

As discussed earlier in the eyepieces section, if most of your birding is done in wide open spaces, i.e. ocean seabird watching, hawk mountain ridges, then you may want to get a fixed wide-angle eyepiece that will provide you with a wider FOV.

You will notice that when comparing a 20x fixed eyepiece with a 20-60x eyepiece that the fixed 20x will have a wider field of view than the zoom at 20x. Just a matter of design.

Optical Design

The 2 basic optical designs of scopes are refractive and catadioptric.

Nearly all birding spotting scopes are refractive.

The reason being that even though catadioptric scopes provide clearer images at higher magnification (of same weight of refractor), they cost significantly more than refractive scopes and are not as strong and durable for field use as refractive scopes.

If you want that extra bit of edge for better images, have the cash, and think your scope won’t get bumped around too much, then go for the catadioptric.

Otherwise, a refractive scope is what you want.

But remember, catadioptric scopes may have images that are vertically correct, but reverse the image left and right.

REFRACTOR CATADIOPTRIC Uses optical glass to bend light Primarily uses mirrors to reflect light Image is correct (right-side up and right to left) Image vertically correct, but reversed right to left Focal length shorter (wider field of view Focal length longer (narrower field of view More durable and field-reliable, low maintenance More fragile, but rubber armor coating can help with protection from elements Simpler design, Less expensive 3-5x more expensive than refractors Heavier Provides greater magnification than refractors of the same weight Best for for terrestrial, nature viewing, birding, hunting, outdoor viewing Best for long distance above-horizon terrestrial applications, telephotography and astronomical observing. Can use fixed or zoom eyepieces Designed to primarily use fixed eyepieces. Performance above 60x diminishes Can provide useful magnifications up to 200x

How To Choose A Spotting Scope for Birding

Here is our continuing discussion of bird watching spotting scope features and how to choose a scope.

Spotting Scopes Part I above discusses magnification, objective lens, exit pupil, eyepieces, field of view and optical design.

In Spotting Scopes Part II we will discusses body design, eye relief, focus mechanism, close focus, weather proofing, and glass composition to help you choose a spotting scope.

Spotting Scope Body Design: Straight or Angled?

There are two basic body designs of refractor spotting scopes: straight and angled.

Straight scopes have the barrel and eyepiece aligned with each other, angled scopes have the eyepiece offset 45 or 90 degrees from the barrel.

There are pros and cons for both.

Personally, we like the straight design.

It’s easier to follow birds that are moving and because we often use our spotting scope from inside the car with a window mount, a straight scope is not a problem.

Many people fine the straight line of sight is easier for accurate aiming.

A straight design is also easier to use from an elevated position.

For example, viewing your backyard birds from a second-story deck.

On the other hand, if you are tall or do a lot of birding with groups, or most of your viewing is above the horizon (looking at cliffs, viewing soaring raptors, birds on tree-tops) than perhaps an angled design would be a better choice.

It all depends how you want to use your spotting scope.

An angled scope can be shared easier than a straight scope because more people of different heights can comfortable look into the scope without adjusting the height.

Think about how you will most often be using your spotting scope. This will help you decide which design best suits your needs.

Part I Spotting Scopes 101 Part II Spotting Scopes 102 Magnification Body Design Objective Lens Eye Relief Exit Pupil Focus Mechanism Eyepieces Close Focus Field of View Weather Proofing Optical Design Glass Composition

Spotting Scope Focus Mechanism

There are 3 basic focusing mechanism designs: single knob, double knob, and helical.

If you can, try different mechanisms and see which one works best for you.

If you can’t, then choose a knob focuser which is generally preferred for bird watching and nature viewing.

Single Double Knob Helical Most common, slow but precise, not as accurate with fine focus 2 drive knobs. One knob gives fast coarse focus, other knob gives precision fine focus Slower on coarse focus, better fine focus control, works well for observing objects that are quickly changing distances, near to far Used by: Bushnell, Kowa, Pentax, Bausch & Lomb, Swift and Zeiss Used by: Leica Used by: Swarovski and Nikon

There are also rack & pinion designs which are commonly found on astronomical telescopes and usually offer fairly fast, smooth focusing, but most components are external and subject to potential deterioration from dust and moisture over time.

Spotting Scope Glass Composition/Coatings

Color aberration is sometimes noticeable with refractor scopes.

Also light transmission can be increased by reducing reflections.

This can be mostly eliminated with the right kind of glass and coatings.

Look for scopes with ED (extra-low dispersion) FL (Fluorite) HD (High Density) and/or APO (apochromatic) glass.

These elements will provide you with an image of higher clarity, detail, and sharpness which in turn will reduce eyestrain.

Of coarse scopes with these extras add extra cost.

Another factor to weigh, but you’ll be paying the cost in frustration when you can’t see those details on that special bird on an overcast (low-light) day.

Spend the extra money on your spotting scope, save by making coffee at home, renting movies, skip the fast-food, make your own x-mas or birthday presents.

Not eating french-fries for a month may buy you the feathered look of a lifetime!

Weather Proofing/Protection

Unless your scope is going to reside inside your home, weather proofing is not an option.

You never know when that rain cloud will just pop-up out of nowhere.

Look for scopes with waterproof and fogproof (nitrogen/dry gas filled) designations.

Rubber armoring is also a nice addition.

It provides protection against abrasive materials, corrosion and helps cushion the scope against unexpected impacts (oops!).

It also makes it more easier and comfortable to handle in cold, wet weather.

Spotting Scope Eye Relief

Eye relief is an important feature on for eyeglass wearers.

It is the distance in millimeters between the eyepiece of the spotting scope and your eye that still allows you to see a complete field of view image in focus.

As an eyeglass wearer your eye is further away from the spotting scope eyepiece, which means a longer eye relief is needed in order to see the entire field of view.

For most eyeglass wearers, an eye relief between 12-15mm will be adequate.

Without adequate eye relief, you won’t get a complete field of view and find you’ll need to remove your glasses in order to see the image properly.

So long eye relief promises full field viewing with eyeglasses.

As mentioned previously in the eyepiece section, there are eyepieces specifically made with long eye relief.

You may also want to select eyepieces that have folding or rollback eyecups so you can get your eyes closer.

Spotting Scope Close Focus

Close or near focus is the distance between the scope and the nearest object you can focus on, while maintaining a good image and sharp focus.

In general, as magnification increases, the minimum close focal distance also increases. So scopes will typically have longer close focus ranges than binoculars.

For bird watching, a short close focus is beneficial for seeing details of a bird that has landed up-close to your scope.

It is also better for taking photographs (see digiscoping). So if this is important to you, selecting a scope with a close distance of 15ft or less would be optimal.

Summary:Get a lightweight, strong & sturdy scope.

If it’s not lightweight, it will be uncomfortable to carry around.

And if it’s not well built with strong housing, the first time it gets bumped when you’re frantically grabbing it from your back seat to see that lifetime peep (a.k.a sandpiper), you may be very disappointed when the focus doesn’t focus.

You get what you pay for – so don’t go cheap. Cheeps are for the birds.

So as with anything else, weigh the cost against the benefits, and get the best spotting cope you can afford.

If you can’t afford a Swarovski, Leica or Zeiss (top-end, most expensive manufacturers) then look at others such as Kowa, Nikon or Pentax which can have just as good designs, but be significantly lower priced.

And don’t forget to leave money in your budget for a sturdy tripod to support your scope, otherwise it’s like putting a Mercedes on golf cart tires.

Spotting Scope Basics

Hope you’ve enjoyed this review of spotting scope basics and we wish you the best in finding that perfect scope.

Digiscoping – Photography with spotting scopes

How to Choose Bird Watching Binoculars

Bird Watching Binoculars 101

Best Binoculars for Bird Watching

Types of Binoculars

High Power Binoculars – sometimes can be used as an alternative to spotting scopes if used with a tripod or monopod.

Jason Binoculars – Auto Focusing Binoculars

Best Zoom Binoculars

Best Mini Binoculars

Infrared Binoculars

Best Marine Binoculars

Cornell’s Review of Birding Spotting Scopes

Wondering what the difference is between crossbow broadheads vs regular broadheads? Some archers find they can accurately shoot their favorite vertical bow broadheads on their crossbow. There is a fine line, but there are differences in design to account for higher bow speeds and kinetic energy.

If you are struggling to get good groupings with your normal compound bow broadheads, then it’s time to move on to a “crossbow broadhead”. Broadhead companies are coming out with more and more products designed specifically for crossbow shooters. This guide covers all the best crossbow broadheads for deer and the various factors you should consider.

Best Crossbow Broadheads Compared

*Last updated 2024-11-10 at 11:06 / Product Links & Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

Crossbow Broadheads vs Regular Broadheads

Many old-school bowhunters will tell you that crossbow broadheads are nothing but a marketing ploy, that the only difference is the word “crossbow” on the packaging. At one time that may have been true, but as crossbow hunting has exploded in popularity that really isn’t exactly true anymore. If you hunt crossbows, why wouldn’t you want to shoot broadheads made for crossbows?

1. Rage Crossbow X – Best Mechanical Crossbow Broadhead

The Crossbow X is basically the same broadhead as the regular Rage 2 blade. They don’t specifically say what the difference is, but I speculate there is a small difference in the deployment mechanism to prevent the blades from expanding in flight.

The Crossbow X broadhead has all the other great design features Rage is known for. There is the Shock Collar system that keeps the rear cam deployment consistent.

The blades are a solid .035” stainless steel, and open to a massive 2” cutting diameter. If you have trouble with mechanical blades opening early, the Rage X would be a good head to try next.

2. Excalibur Boltcutter – Best Fixed Blade Crossbow Broadhead

The Boltcutter is a beefy 3 blade, 150 grain fixed blade broadhead for crossbows. Excalibur explains the choice of a 150-grain head as a way to improve the accuracy over 300 fps by increasing the front of center balance.

The entire broadhead is constructed from high strength stainless steel to withstand the high kinetic energy impact of crossbows.

The Boltcutter is a sweet balance of the strength and durability of fixed blades, with the speed and accuracy of a mechanical.

3. Muzzy Trocar Crossbow

The Trocar is a very sharp, three-cornered stainless steel tip, which is found on an instrument used in surgical procedures, and also on the tip of these broadheads. This feature is intended to increase penetration, which I suspect it does very well. Paired with a solid stainless steel ferrule, it punches through bone without deformation.

The Muzzy Trocar uses a helix design with a right-hand twist, which combined with a rather compact profile, is intended to increase stabilization while offering less resistance to the wind, resulting in consistent flight characteristics and accuracy. Muzzy designed these especially for use at higher speeds.

These broadheads are available in either 100 or 125-grain weights, with .035″-thick blades and a cutting diameter of 1-3/16″. One nice feature is that the blades are easily replaceable if they get bent or damaged just unscrew the old one and screw a new one on.

4. NAP Spitfire Crossbow

The NAP Spitfire is a 3-blade mechanical broadhead that has gained something of a reputation for reliable functioning and great performance. The blades are sharpened with NAP’s patented Diamize process and are thus razor sharp. Another patented feature is the hardened-steel Trophy Tip to maximize penetration and decrease deflection off of the bone. It also sports a micro-grooved ferrule which is intended to improve accuracy.

The Spitfire utilizes a mechanical spring clip retention system to keep the blades from deploying in flight, so there is no need to mess with O-rings, even when using high-speed bows. Users report that this patented (boy they have a lot of patents on this) retention system is very reliable, with hardly any reports of premature blade deployment. As a matter of fact, customer reviews on these broadheads are excellent, consistently citing accuracy and superior performance.

Available in both 100 and 125-grain weights, with a cutting diameter of 1-1/2″, these can be used on both carbon and aluminum bolts. An excellent choice for deer and elk as well as a turkey broadhead.

5. Grim Reaper Crossbow Broadhead

These are nearly identical to the Grim Reaper Razorcut SS broadhead for compound bows, just modified for use with crossbows that shoot up to and beyond 400 fps.

The difference isn’t clear as Grim Reaper has next to zero info on their website. Get with the program guys.

The X-Bow heads are available in 100 and 125-grain sizes, with either Razortip or Razorcut SS tips. The cutting diameter is a large 1.5”, and crossbow hunters have been happy with the size of wound channels for humane take-downs.

6. Swhacker Two-Blade Crossbow Broadhead

Swhacker has earned a name in the industry for high quality and innovative designs, and these mechanical broadheads are good a good example of both. They feature stainless steel blades, an anodized aircraft aluminum ferrule, and a high-carbon hardened steel penetration point.

According to their website, their unique design provides two different cutting edges, a primary and a secondary attack. When the primary cutting blades are retracted, two short wing blades are deployed, much smaller than the main blades. These are for the initial assault, cutting through the dirt, hair, hide, and bones and penetrating into the interior. They point out that they use much less energy to penetrate than broadheads that open upon impact, and that they take some of the load off of the ferrule.

As they penetrate, they open the primary blades inside the body cavity, leaving them with “virgin edges” when they open. It really is a clever design. These are available in 125-grain weight, blades are .032″ thick, with an open cutting diameter of 2-1/4″. A good choice in mechanical broadheads.

7. Cabela’s Lazer Strike II Crossbow

Here we have Cabela’s brand mechanical broadhead, which is actually very popular. Normally I side with the saying “you get what you pay for”, but the Lazers have the performance and track record to push away fears of the low price.

Lazer Strike II crossbow heads are built with a hardened steel trophy tip design, with replaceable .030” stainless blades. You can tell the difference between these with the regular Lazers by the gold-colored ferrule.

These use the o-ring method for blade retention, so if you hate messing with o-rings, you may want to stick with the Rage or Reapers.

8. Muzzy Trocar HBX

The Muzzy Trocar HBX is a hybrid broadhead with a rather unique design. The hybrid construction combines the advantages of both fixed blades and expandable blades. They’re equipped with a tapered steel ferrule that is the same size as the bolt, and utilizing the same three-sided stainless steel surgical Trocar tip as used in the Trocar Xbow above. The mechanical blades are retained in a closed position using a friction washer.

The broadheads in flight with the fixed blades and the rearward-deploying mechanical blades folded are only 3/4″ x 1″ in profile, which the company says gives field tip accuracy, and by most accounts this holds true. At impact, the mechanical blades expand to a 1-5/8″ cutting diameter for a large wound channel. But here’s the twist. When the expandable blades meet bone, they close up to re-open after they have passed the obstruction, letting the fixed blades do the heavy work.

These are available in both 100 and 125-grain weights. Users report excellent results with the Muzzy Trocar HBX broadheads and they’re well worth giving a try.

9. Rage Hypodermic Crossbow

For years the Rage Hypodermic mechanical broadheads have maintained high popularity among hunters, earned by their consistent reliability of function, accuracy, and game-getting results. It’s a proven design that works well.

The simplicity of their design contributed greatly to their reputation. What the company calls Ferrule Alignment Technology (FAT) ensures proper bolt-to-ferrule alignment and contributes to the sleek aerodynamics. The steel ferrule is equipped with a very pointy hybrid tip for deep penetration. The system uses a reliable high-energy shock collar for blade retention. When deployed, the .035″ stainless blades boast a huge 2” cutting diameter for an equally huge wound channel. Available in 100 or 125 grains.

It’s hard to go wrong with this time-tested beast stopper.

10. G5 Striker Crossbow

For those who prefer fixed-blade broadheads, the G5 Striker is a top contender, known for its durability, accuracy, and stopping power.

It utilizes the unique patented ANIX blade locking system, which is basically a very sharp three-sided steel tip which locks over the lower part of the blades, taking the brunt of the impact off of the three fixed blades, protecting them from damage. The blades themselves are metal injection molded for flexibility, tapered for better aerodynamics, and honed with the company’s Diamond-Cut Sharpness sharpening technology. The whole unit is solid steel and spin-tested to ± 0.002″ straightness for maximum accuracy.

Available in either 100 or 125 grains, with a cutting diameter of 1-1/8″, the G5 Striker is an attractive high-tech alternative for the modern hunter.

A Crossbow Broadhead for Any Hunter

The selection of broadheads for crossbow hunting has never been better. Whether you prefer fixed blades like the Xcalibur Boltcutter or mechanicals like the Rage Crossbow X, or if you like a heavier 150 grain or lighter 100, there is a broadhead for you. Select the right grain and cutting diameter for the type of hunting you like to do and get out there with confidence. All of these broadheads are elite choices and fully capable of taking an animal with a good shot. If you are interested in crossbow hunting for turkey, check out our turkey broadheads guide.

*Last updated 2024-11-10 at 11:06 / Product Links & Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

Trolling fishing is a popular technique used by anglers to catch this prized freshwater game fish. The method involves dragging one or more baited lines or lures behind a moving boat at varying speeds and depths until a walleye takes the bait.

Trolling for walleye can be done on freshwater lakes or rivers, and requires specialized equipment and techniques to be successful. Walleye trolling can be a fun and challenging way to target these elusive fish and is a favorite among many anglers.

Trolling Fishing A Historical Overview

Walleye trolling has been practiced for many years, with the first recorded use of this technique dating back to the early 1900s.

At the time, anglers used hand-cranked reels to drag baited lines behind their boats.

As technology improved, the method became more efficient with the development of electric trolling motors and other specialized equipment.

Today, walleye trolling is a popular sport enjoyed by anglers all over the world, and has even led to the development of specialized boats and equipment designed specifically for this type of fishing.

Despite the advancements in technology, the basic principles of trolling fishing for walleye remain the same – drag a baited line or lure behind a moving boat to attract and catch walleye.

Essential Gear for Successful Walleye Trolling Fishing

To be successful at trolling fishing for walleye, you’ll need a few key pieces of equipment.

The first is a trolling rod and reel setup, which should be strong enough to handle the weight of your lures and the fight of a walleye.

Look for a trolling rod that is at least 7 feet in length and has a medium-heavy power rating. Using a sensitive fishing rod can aid in detecting bites and setting the hook properly

Opting for a reel with a smooth drag system can assist in wearing down a walleye and reducing the risk of line breakage. A drag system that is rated for at least 10-12 pounds can help you handle a larger walleye.

The Penn Fathom Lever Drag 2 is an excellent option to consider.

With its user-friendly design and lever drag system, this reel provides a smooth and intuitive experience.

A level wind reel is ideal for trolling, as it distributes line evenly across the spool and can help prevent tangles.

A downrigger or planer board can help you get your lures to the right depth and keep them there.

Investing in a quality trolling rod and reel setup can make a big difference in your success when trolling for walleye.

You’ll also need a trolling motor or an outboard motor that is powerful enough to move your boat at a slow and steady pace.

Boats Suitable For Trolling Fishing

Having the right boat can make a big difference in your success.

Ideally, you’ll want a boat that is stable, maneuverable, and has plenty of space for you and your gear.

A flat-bottomed boat, such as a jon boat or a bass boat, can be a good choice for trolling, as they offer good stability and maneuverability in calm waters.

Alternatively, a larger boat with a deep-V hull can be a good choice if you plan to fish in rougher waters or if you need more space and storage for your gear.

Equipping your boat with a trolling motor and depth finder can assist you in navigating the water and identifying the prime locations for trolling fishing.|

To ensure a successful fishing trip, it’s crucial to have a high-quality net and cooler on hand.

Trolling Motors For Walleye Trolling

There are many great trolling motors available in the market, but one of the best options for trolling for walleye is the Minn Kota Endura C2 55. This motor is known for its reliability, durability, and quiet operation. It has a 55-pound thrust, making it powerful enough to handle rough water conditions and strong currents. Additionally, it features a telescoping handle, allowing for easy control and maneuverability. Overall, the Minn Kota Endura C2 55 is an excellent choice for any angler looking for a quality trolling motor for walleye fishing.

Best Lures and Baits for Walleye Trolling

Walleye are often attracted to lures that mimic the movements of their natural prey, such as minnows or leeches.

The best walleye lure baits can vary depending on factors such as water temperature, time of day, and the specific body of water you’re fishing

Recommended baits are crankbaits, spinnerbaits, and spoons. Designed to attract walleye.

A depth finder or fish finder is also useful for locating schools of walleye.

It also helps determining the depth at which they are feeding.

Recommendations For Lures Based On Water Depth

Less than 15 feet a floating crankbait or spinner rig can be effective.

These lures can be trolled at a slow speed near the surface, which can attract walleye that are feeding on smaller baitfish.

15-30 feet. A deep diving crankbait or a jig and plastic tail can work well in medium depth water.

These lures can be trolled at a moderate speed to get them down to the right depth and keep them there.

Use a downrigger for depths over 30 feet.

A deep diving crankbait or a spoon can work well in deep water, as they can replicate the movements of larger baitfish that walleye may be feeding on.

Speed And Depth For Walleye Trolling

Speed and depth are critical factors to consider when trolling for walleye.

Generally, a speed of 1.5 to 2.5 miles per hour is a good starting point for trolling.

You may need to adjust your speed based on the behavior of the fish and the conditions of the water.

If you’re not getting bites, try slowing down or speeding up your trolling speed to see if that makes a difference.

As a general rule, walleye tend to be found at deeper depths during the day and shallower depths in the early morning or evening.

Using a depth finder can be helpful in determining the ideal depth for your lure.

Once you’ve found the right depth, be sure to maintain a consistent speed and depth as you troll to maximize your chances of getting a bite.

Tips for Avoiding Snags and Tangles

Snags and tangles are a common problem when trolling for walleye, and can quickly become frustrating if you’re constantly having to untangle your lines or retrieve snagged lures.

One of the best ways to avoid snags is to keep your lure at the right depth for the conditions of the water you’re fishing in.

Using a line counter reel can be helpful in keeping track of the depth of your lure and reducing the risk of snags.

Locations for Trolling Fishing for Walleye

Wisconsin is home to some of the best walleye trolling locations in the United States.

One of the most popular destinations for walleye fishing in the state are Green Bay & Lake Winnebago.

Green Bay is located in northeastern Wisconsin.

The bay covers an area of over 1,600 square miles and has an average depth of only 20 feet.

Ideal habitat for walleye. Some of the most productive areas for walleye trolling in Green Bay include the waters around the Fox River, the Pensaukee River, and the Oconto River.

Known for producing some of the largest walleye catches in the country.

Other notable lakes for walleye trolling in Wisconsin include Lake Michigan, and Lake Superior.

When choosing a location to troll for walleye, it’s important to consider factors such as water temperature, depth, and structure.

Walleye tend to be most active in water temperatures between 55-68°F and are often found near structures such as drop-offs, weed beds, and submerged rock piles.

It’s also important to pay attention to weather conditions, as changes in wind and cloud cover can affect the feeding patterns of walleye.

Enjoy Your Trip Walleye Trolling Fishing

Don’t forget to take in the scenery and appreciate the beauty of the great outdoors while you’re out on the water.

Anglers are required to obtain a fishing license and follow specific size and bag limits for different fish species.

It is important to avoid damaging habitats and follow proper waste disposal methods to avoid polluting waterways. Grab your gear, head out to your favorite fishing spot, and enjoy the thrill of trolling for walleye.

Guided Walleye Fishing With Captain Lonney

For 25 years Green Bay Trophy Fishing has guided and provided helpful information to anglers in and around Door County. We are some of the most experienced fishing guides in Green Bay and pride ourselves on being experts on everything related to fishing in the area.

If you are interested in booking a walleye fishing charter, you can view our rates or contact us here.

Let me make this clear to you.

This is the Only Guide on the Internet with full depth info about the best scopes for 22LR as of 2022. The field test results plus unbiased straightforward talk is what makes this list so popular. (jump to main section).

I love shooting, always have. Like most country folk do, I started off with a Daisy Air Gun which launched a brass BB like a jet off a Carrier – or at least I thought so.

As a kid, once I had proved to the old man that I had some sense for responsible gun ownership, I began plinking with my .22 Long Rifle in the dried-out riverbed behind the house.

Like most kids I got a hand-me-down. Dad’s old tube fed, Model 80 Marlin was true and sure but had a broken extractor, so after each shot, I had to pop out the spent brass with my trusty pen knife.

I loved the low recoil combined by the quiet pop of the rifle as I plinked beer cans and then advanced to popping the thousands of prairie dogs that had commandeered my neighbor’s pasture.

In my teens I was introduced to the 22 Mag, or more officially, the .22 Winchester Magnum Rimfire (WMR) cartridge, but I always fell back to the beauty and simplicity of my .22 Long Rifle for cheap and fun shooting.

To the date of the writing of this article, there is no gun comparable out there for putting down varmints from as small as rabbits to as big as coyotes. Especially when it comes to cost.

This simple, cheap, and wonderful round is produced in the billions each year and can yet become scarce when politicians start threating gun control.

Now talking about hitting those targets or hunting squirrels and those small critters out there, you would need a scope regardless of the distance they’re at!

We know if we are target shooting (in competitions) or hunting small animals like squirrels and armadillos, all we need is precision and results!

So either way, if you’re an expert (perhaps you skipped the intro) or you’re someone just starting out, here are the best scopes for the 22LR rifle.

Comparison Table for the Best Scopes For 22LR:

Quality Scope for My .22, why Should I Care?

Back in those days, living on the plains of Eastern Colorado, we shot .22 rifles, peeping across iron sights at squirrels and such.

I could not afford a rifle scope, but any prairie dog inside of 50 yards was a goner when I was in the prone position.

These days, we rely on heavy duty and accurate optical sights to deliver an accurate crushing blow.

Where once we were looking through a rear and front sight now, we were looking through the glass of a scope mounted to our barrels.

At first, I bought the cheapest scope I could find. I wasn’t looking for high quality or multi coated or fog proof optics.

I made some good shots with the $30 scope but I sought out a better solution if not the best.

My .22 needed a companion scope that would bring out the best features in the chambering.

How Were the Scopes for the 22 Rimfire Chosen?

The list is built from scratch for the year 2022, so the 22LR scopes mentioned here have up to date information.

Here are things that I considered, researched, and tested while searching for the best .22 scopes:

I spend most of my time in the High Country of Colorado. The weather is unpredictable, and the terrain is abusive.

My scope requirements tend to fall more on durability, weatherproofing and weight. A broken or hazy scope is useless at 12,000 feet.

Test Bed:

Marlin Model 60 chambered in .22 LR, semi-automatic, with 18 round tube fed magazine.

This is a steady and reliable rifle and offers a standard platform with which to mount our test subjects.

The Marlin is a lightweight rifle and we wanted to keep it that way, thus scope weight played a significant factor.

Best 22LR Scopes for Squirrel Hunting and Target Shooting:

Leupold VX-Freedom 3-9x40mm Rimfire Riflescope

This Leupold VX-Freedom toughed it out with us on a late late-season, plains coyote hunt on the sagebrush and dog-hole dominated rolling hills of Arapahoe County, Colorado.

Out of the box, this high quality, fully coated, rifle scope had the look and feel of one of the best scopes offered on the market. It mounted seamlessly to my Marlin using provided scope rings.

The Power

This Leupold is a variable power scope that far exceeds the requirements of shooting the .22 LR. The 3-9×40 allows you to dial from 3 up to 9 magnification to suit your hunting needs. The 40mm objective lets in a ton of light during shooting hours. It was more power in a scope than I needed for shorter range “varmint hunting”.

I usually hunt inside 100 yards, so I shot the scope with a setting around 5 which is quite practical for most hunters. I found that any magnification over 9 just wasnt worth it in short range, small game hunting. A fixed scope would most likely be the best candidate for hunting small game at a short range. But to each their own.

The Objective Lens

This scope’s objective lens is a little larger than what is required for the .22 LR and offered a noticeably clear sight picture. It was clear and bright at 40mm and provided the best light transmission front to back as we shot from dusk to dawn.

I did shoot my rimfire in the evenings and found that the larger objective was far more gracious in letting in light as you approach dusk.

Fuzziness and blurriness were not a problem during our intense hunt. The scope’s optics performed in an outstanding fashion. I selected the simple duplex reticle for quick and easy range finding. I got on to several coyotes within the first several hours of hunting and wanted to lock on as quickly as possible. All ‘yotes inside of 100 yards went on to Valhalla and their furs to the taxidermist.

Rugged and Durable

Yes, this rifle scope performed well out of the box on our weekend coyote shoot in the snowbanks of Kiowa Creek in Eastern Colorado. There were quite a few creek crossings, climbing on our bellies and hauling scope mounted rifles into tree stands. We are rough on gear out here and the Leupold performed very well under the worst-case conditions.

Knobs and Dials

Both the Diopter adjustment and the magnification zoom, as well as the elevation and windage turrets functioned smoothly. Windage adjustments were smooth and reported a loud click to ensure accurate and confident shooting.

Affordability

You’re not going to get to get away with spending less than $400 for a Leupold scope. In this case, the scope cost more than the rifle, but it is what it is, and the shooting experience was exhilarating.

Leupold FX-1 4x28mm Rimfirescope

I really wanted to check out this no-nonsense scope, that had set magnification at 4x which is perfect for .22 LR shooting. It was also more streamlined and lighter than the other candidates we checked out and fitted very well to the Marlin with the extra purchase scope rings.

The Power

This one is a non-variable power scope. The 4x was more than appropriate for the max effective ranges of the .22 Mag, inside 100 yards, which allowed quicker target acquisition to kill on most targets.

Of the two other scopes, this one was the toughest to get the sight picture clear and there was some blurriness, but it was not that annoying. It may have been a manufacturing defect in that scope. I’m very used to peeping through Leupold scopes and my expectations are always very high that I will be looking though the finest, state-of-the-art optics.

The Objective Lens

The 28mm objective works simply fine for plinking, target shooting and hunting.

As I shot all day on the range, I noticed the glass was not as crisp and clear as the other contenders and as I continued to shoot till dusk and found out that it did not provide the same light transmission as the other scopes. With that being said, I was still able to keep all my shots inside a 2” ring out to 125 yards. Albeit, having to strain my eyes a bit more.

Rugged and Durable

Unfortunately, I was not able to take the FX-1 out into the field for a stress test to see it is the best .22 scope in this category – only the range. These Leupold scopes are some of the most durable scopes out there on the market. I do not take their word for it either. I’ve been shooting through their scopes for over 20 years. I frequently compare notes with my shooting buddies, and I’ve heard through the grapevine, from other shooting enthusiasts, that you get what you pay for, and these Leupold scopes are pretty tough hombres.

Knobs and Dials

I did not have any major complaints on scope adjustments. They were not near as smooth as the other tested scopes and windage and elevation turrets did not provide loud enough clicks for me to be sure of their adjustment.

Affordability

I got mine for $300, so it did not break the bank, but it was a bit pricy for a plinking scope. For varmint hunting it’s probably the way to go if you have a budget but don’t want to mount a scope of lesser quality.

Athlon Optics Midas TAC 6-24×50 First Focal Plane Riflescope:

A buddy of mine from Nebraska called me up to rid his fields of some pesky prairie dogs. I knew this would be a good opportunity to try out the professional grade Athlon Optics Midas TAC.

We’d be shooting out to 150+ yards, a long way for the 22 LR, and I wanted to see how this great looking scope would perform against its more affordable rivals.

I mounted one up on to my Marlin with Vortex Optics Tactical 30mm Riflescope Rings. The mounting was simple, and I was able to adjust the scope to my preferred eye relief distance of around 4 inches for the .22 – not much recoil to worry about and I really hate getting scope bitten.

My first peep down the scope gave me a look at The Christmas Tree MOA reticle. I could tell right off the bat that it was a little much for a simple 1,200 fps 30 grain round and was better suited for 30-06 or .308 caliber weapons.

All that was necessary for this shooter was a simple duplex reticle where I just put the crosshairs on the target and pull the trigger.

The Power

The 6-24×50 allows you to dial up some serious magnification – which gives you a workable field of vision down to 6 feet at prairie dog range. The scope gets all that is needed for short range shooting just right.

With this power I was able to set back away from the alert little rodents without scaring the little buggers back down into their holes, and I hit most of the prairie dogs I set my sights on.

Hunting outside the 100 yard range with a .22 LR, I shot the rifle with the scope set at 7 power. I am biased about short range varmint shooting and I’ve always considered a fixed magnification scope the best candidate for hunting small game at shorter ranges with a 22 LR.

The Objective Lens

This scope’s 50mm objective meets and exceeds all the requirements for plinking and target shooting; well beyond what is required for the standard .22 Long Rifle and its limited range.

The 50mm objective allowed plenty of light for my daytime prairie dog hunt but we had to pack it in late afternoon.

One thing for sure, the large objective barley fit my rifle using standard rings, and I was not able to set the scope far back enough to achieve my preferred eye-relief. This problem will probably vary from rifle to rifle.

Rugged and Durable

The Athlon Optics family has a reputation for meeting the most grueling weather and hunting conditions around the world.

Unfortunately, I did not get a change to introduce this scope to the rigors of Colorado hunting but I’m looking forward to taking to the limits this winter with a late season Muley hunt on the plains east of Denver – this time mounted to the top of my .270 Winchester.

Knobs and Dials

Very well engineered! Audible and reliable clicks on the windage and yardage turrets.

Affordability

With a price tag around $700, this is the least affordable of the rifle scopes tested, its performs very well for your basic rimfire, short range shooting activities and probably is a little much given this scope is designed for shooting high velocity magnum rounds out to 700 yards or greater.

Vortex Crossfire II 2-7×32 Rimfire

You can’t complete a list without having Vortex in it, can you? The only thing entry level about this scope is it’s price.

The successor of Crossfire, the Vortex Crossfire II is a versatile piece built specifically for rimfire rifles.

Specifications:

Clarity and Build:

The scope produces a clear, crisp picture and features multi-coated lenses, Fast-focus eyepiece and a V-Plex (MOA) reticle.

The efficient light transmission through the lens makes it a good choice for outdoor as well as indoor shooting.

The Vortex Crossfire II is built on a single-piece aircraft grade Aluminium, hence making it a robust piece and the O-ring seals make sure that no dust or moisture gets in.

The hard ArmorTrek coating protects the exterior lenses from scratches and oil.

The capped zero reset turrets give a positive feel and can be tracked easily.

Accuracy:

While testing it, we found it to be clear at 25, 50 and 100 yards.

The scope was mounted on a Smith & Wesson M&P 15-22 shooting various ammo. After sighting in, the rifle shot 1/2 inch groups at 50 yards.

We got 4 inch groups on an average with rests in place at 100 yards and 1 inch groups at 25 yards indoors respectively.

The Crossfire II provided generous eye relief and held zero perfectly throughout the test.

Tested On (Rifles and Recommended Mounts):

If you’ve Ruger 10/22, the medium rings like Leupold Std Medium Rings will do good and if you’re looking for quick detachable rings then Weaver Quad-Lock Rings work well.

For Marlin 795-LTR Redfield .22 See-Thru Dovetail Rings work well.

At low power, we were able to shoot with both eyes open and the view never got black regardless of the head movements.

Pros:

Cons:

Vortex Diamondback 2-7×35 Rimfire Scope:

If you liked the Crossfire II, then you’ll love the Diamondback!

This beautiful beast is carved out of a single piece of aircraft grade aluminum hence making it resistant to shocks and magnum recoils.

Specifications:

Clarity:

Talking about clarity, as usual, the quality is exceptional, the pictures are sharp, vivid and bright; all credit goes to the multi-coated lenses which increase light transmission up to 91%.

You’re simply getting clarity that matches up to the scopes being sold at higher prices.

The turrets are super good, give a positive feel and in no way, they’re soft or mushy.

The low profiled capped turrets prevent any sort of damage to them and yes, the Diamondback features the zero-reset turrets.

The glass etched V-plex reticle is super helpful in various hunting applications.

Furthermore, the scope tube is Argon purged hence making it fog proof and the O-ring seals make sure that the scope remains waterproof and dustproof.

Accuracy:

We mounted the scope on a CZ 452 22LR shooting CCI stingers.

It took us 6 rounds to zero at 50 yards. We shot first two rounds for checking and fine tuning. The rest of the 20 rounds were dead on.

Pros:

Conclusion:

So that’s the thought process of my findings and the results of the field testing that I came up with to select the best .22 LR Scope. At the end of the day, I love standing on that pile of rimfire shells on the range.

I’ll wipe down the rifle and scope and write down some more notes on what I think is the best 22 Scope for a rimfire.

After shooting over 1,000 rounds behind these scopes, I found the Leupold VX Freedom Rimfire Rifle scope outperformed its competitor scopes in every aspect that I considered essential, except price. It is the best 22 scope solution for my rimfire. And, as of today, it is still mounted to my semi-auto rimfire.

• Provided tight groups at 100 yards and respectable at 125 yards
• The multi coated optics stayed clear and fog-proof during the worst weather conditions
• The eye relief was most forgiving, allowing me to quickly acquire my target
• Scope adjustments were easy to use, clicks were audible and the adjustments smooth
• It certainly is the best of the best scopes out there for varmint shooting with the scrappy little .22 LR

I’ll be straightforward here.

Choose either Leupold VX-Freedom or Vortex Crossfire II, these are currently the best scopes for 22LR. There isn’t much difference in clarity or features. I’m a Leupold guy so I’ll go Leupold VX-Freedom, if you love Vortex, then choose the Crossfire II.

Both of these scopes are a great choice for competitions, plinking and small game hunting.

Both of these scopes are beasts in themselves and can give a tough fight to scopes available in higher price.

Choose any of the shortlisted scope and you’re good to go.

Thank me later!

How to Choose a Scope for 22LR?

How much Magnification for a 22LR Scope?

If we talk on the basis of the usual range, effective distance, and bullet drop then hunters shooting 22LRs generally don’t go beyond 100 yards. I’ve seen most of my friends plinking or hunting squirrels at no more than 75 yards.

Considering the average distance and the size of animals or pests, you wouldn’t be needing anything more than 9x magnification.

If you’re considering a 22LR scope for long range hunting, then keep reading.

Where Should I Buy the Scope From?

Amazon. Don’t need to explain much here.

The customer service, quick delivery and easy returns make Amazon my preferred marketplace to buy 22LR scopes. I’ve had very negative experiences with many other websites but Amazon has always been good for me. The scopes are generally available at a discount and the customer ratings help a lot too.

Long Range Hunting & Shooting with 22LR:

As mentioned in my earlier post, 22LR drops like a rainbow after 100 yards.

Personally, having shot the Savage Mark II out to 300 yards with subsonic ammo, I can tell you it isn’t easy to hit with accuracy.

Still there are some amazing people out there doing the impossible and making the 22LR work way beyond its limits.

Guess what? It’s all about how good you are!

Though the scopes on my list are capable of hunting at long distances but distances like 700 yards are just extreme and aren’t a practical effective range for hunting and plinking.

For an initial review, we like to drive a new UTV at least 100 miles and get through a feel for it. For a full evaluation, and the confidence to give it a recommendation, that requires over 1000-miles of seat time. Well for this Volcon first drive we were only teased with a 6.5 mile drive and 11 minutes of seat time. That’s not to say we weren’t impressed with our findings however.

WHAT IS THE STAG

This vehicle is set to be the first electric side by side in the recreational segment. The unit is still in the prototype phase. However, production units are said to be rolling off the assembly line as soon as September with a starting MSRP of $39,999. Size and capability wise, we would compare this unit to a 4-door Polaris General and it is 64 inches wide. The Stag is only available as a four seater for now but other models, sizes and styles are in the works.

WHAT POWERS IT

Volcon sourced the powertrain for the Stag directly from GM. In fact, the 42KW battery pack and 125HP-140 HP, electric motor are very similar to what you would find in a Chevrolet Bolt. The front and rear differentials both come from the Chevrolet Blazer and feature, electronic lockers and un lockers.

IS IT FAST

It’s quick. Although our test drive was brief, we would compare the power to a good working Turbo powered 4-seat RZR or X3. Unfortunately, the two prototype Stags we drove didn’t have front differentials in them, so, getting the power to the ground on a dry hard-packed track was tough. The highest top speed we saw was 58 MPH but the claimed top speed is 80. On more than one occasion, our drivers head was pinned back to the seat when the Stag found traction. It is quick, we just cant say for certain that its quicker than other cars out there until we get it head to head.

WHAT SUSPENSION DOES IT HAVE

All four corners use beefy, dual A-arms controlling 14-inches of wheel travel. Big front and rear swaybars do a great job controlling body roll. As for bump absorption, 2.5 inch, fully adjustable Elka shocks with remote reservoirs do an excellent job considering the vehicle weighs a claimed 2600 pounds. Most of that weight is battery and is situated along the bottom of the frame rails contributing to a very low center of gravity. The A-arms appear to be bigger and stronger than what you would find on a Polaris General or the new XPEDITION. Volcon uses automotive style unitized hubs on all four corners. These are the exact same 5-lug hubs as are found on the Polaris RZR Pro R.

HOW DOES IT HANDLE

The vehicle has very little body roll. It never felt tippy, wanted to two-wheel or have too much front end dive under braking. Volcon and Elka engineers did an excellent job tuning the shocks to handle the weight of the machine. We were able to hit a few small table top jumps and the vehicle flew straight and landed pillow smooth. It’s interesting to note, that they did design the steering system with the tie rods connecting forward of the spindles. This is similar to how Arctic Cat builds the Wild Cat and Robby Gordon does it in the Speed UTV. It translates to a very flickable vehicle. Electronic power steering is handled by an EZ steer set up. It was light and offered very little feedback but again, we were only driving in 2WD. With lots of power on tap, it was very easy to slide the rear end around and make tight turns quickly.

WHAT ABOUT RANGE AND CHARGE TIME

Since our ride time was brief we did not get to confirm any of the Volcon claims on battery life or charge times. However, the claims do not seam too far fetched. Of course milage can vary dramatically depending on how heavy your foot is, terrain and temperatures. Volcon states you can likely get anywhere from 40 miles flat-footed to 160 at a creeping pace so to be safe, they say it will go 100 miles between charges. Furthermore, if you do get down to a 20-percent charge, power output is limited to make sure you get back to where you need to plug in.

You can charge the Stag using any standard Level 1 (household 110v outlet), Level 2 (240v) or Level 3 (Super Charger) methods through the onboard, automotive style, J1772 plug. A full Level 1 charge could take up to 42 hours, Level 2 charging will top you off in 4-6 hours and a super charger can get you going in about 15 minutes. To test this for ourselves, we have already mapped out a 2-day test loop in the Mojave Desert complete with Level 2 and 3 chargers that are accessible by OHV’s. Stay tuned for that test when the production models are released in the Fall.

IS AN ELECTRIC UTV IN YOUR FUTURE?

There are five good reasons to own any electric UTV. One, your driving experience will be relatively quieter. Sure if you ride fast, wind noise will be there, but if you ride slow, your journey could be in near silence or better yet, you will be able to hold a conversation with your passenger. The Volcon had very little rattling from bodywork or gear noise. Two: Maintenance will be cut in half. There will be no more oil changes, air filter cleanings or servicing the transmission. In the Stag, you would still need to change the oil in the differentials and keep a close eye on wheel bearings, ball joints and A-arm bushings. Three: No more gas or exhaust smell. Trips to the gas station or hauling jugs of gas to the ride area will be a thing of the past. This also might come in handy depending on where you store your vehicle as some storage units don’t allow gas powered vehicles to be stored.. Four: It’s conceivable that you would able to power a circuit of your house or motorhome with your Stag. Imagine being in a black out, tornado or hurricane and the whole town looses power. If you keep your machine charged and ready, power is still available and better yet, it’s portable, incase your neighbor needs it more than you do. Imagine that!

Five: The thrill and power of driving an electric vehicle is something everyone wants to experience whether they will buy one or not. You will be the talk of the town, riding park or race track at least until a few more guys purchase them or other top manufacturers come out with one. For now, the Volcon Stag is it.

SPECS

2024 VOLCON STAG

Motor: 100+ KW

Battery:42kWH

Horsepower: 125hp

Torque: 265lb-ft

Range 100 mile + or –

Final Drive: Shaft

Suspension/wheel travel: Dual A-arms 14” / 2.5” Elka

Tires/wheels: 30×10-15 BFG KM3/Raceline

Brakes: 4 wheel disc with Regen braking

Overall Length/Width/Height: 155”/64”/78”

Wheelbase: 121”

Ground clearance: 14”

Payload capacity: 1200lb

Cargo capacity: 650lb

Tow rating: 2000lb

Drive modes: Sport, Explore, Stroll

Navigation: Garmin (optional)

Price: $39,999

Contact: www.volcon.com

The American pump shotgun market is ruled by two guns, the Mossberg 500 and Remington 870.

These guns have been subject to at least as much debate as to the 9mm vs. 45 ACP or the Glock vs. 1911.

While they are very similar, they are also very different. Just saying Mossberg 500 or Remington 870 is a bit misleading. Both guns have dozens of variants.

These guns are not just a single line but a series of shotguns.

With Mossberg, we have the 500, the 535, the 590, the 590A1, the Shockwave, and so on.

With Remington, we have the Express, Wingmaster, Tactical, the TAC 14, the DM models, and more.

We are keeping this generalized to the specifics of these family of shotguns. When necessary I’ll mention exceptions within these families if rules are broken.

I want this to be a look at both the inside and outside of the guns and what’s important to shooters.

Both guns are similar, and they come in 12 gauge, 20 gauge, and 410. Both are pump-action shotguns, both are American made, and both can be used for home defense, hunting, and police and military use.

There are quite a few differences, though. That’s what we are going to explore today, the differences between these two guns.

The Controls

The most significant difference any shooter can easily pick up on is the difference between the safety locations on a Remington 870 and a Mossberg 500.

The Remington 870 uses a traditional push-button safety located on the trigger guard. Mossberg uses sliding safety located on the tang of the receiver.

The Remington 870’s safety is positioned behind the trigger and easy to reach.

It can be used with any stock system with ease. It is much more friendly with right-handers, but that being said, a left-handed friend of mine uses an 870 and destroys us at shooting clays.

The Mossberg 500 safety is completely ambidextrous but challenging to use on shotguns with pistol grips. This includes practical pistol grips that utilize stocks as well.

It takes a mighty reach upwards on Mossbergs with pistol grips

While the safeties are the easiest difference to spot, the other difference is the slide release. Both the Mossberg and Remington position the slide release on the left side of the trigger unit.

Remington places there forward of the trigger, and Mossberg positions theirs behind the trigger.

The Remington 870 suffers from the fact that you have to break your firing grip to reach forward and release the slide. The Mossberg 500 series can be activated without breaking the firing grip.

The Difference in Actions

One difference you can’t see, but you can feel is each gun’s actions. Both use twin steel action bars for increased durability.

You notice how handy those twin action bars are when you handle something like an old 1897 and feel how fragile a single action bar is.

The Remington 870 uses a robust, one-piece design that combines the action bars and pump. The Mossberg 500 series uses two pinned action bars that are anchored to a separate slide assembly.

The end result is the Mossberg pumps tend to feel sloppy, and they move around quite a bit. You can feel the slop in your hands as you pump the weapon.

The Remington 870 tends to be tighter and smoother. It gives an overall higher quality experience. If you want to tune a gun up, get a Remington, and you’ll be shocked at how smooth a competent smith can get a Remy action.

The 500 series does make it easier to replace and repair the action. Should a bar get bent, it’s easy to unpin the bar and remove and replace it. If a Remington 870 bar gets bent, it can be challenging to pull out the entire system and replace it.

Material Differences

One of the most significant differences you can’t see is what material makes up your shotgun’s receiver.

Don’t feel bad.

Most people can’t look at a metal and tell you what it is.

This material difference is one of the biggest differences you’ll likely never notice.

The Remington 870s use good ole ‘fashion American steel. Well, I don’t know if it’s American, but it is steel. This gives the 870s a more substantial receiver overall.

The Mossberg 500 series uses aluminum receivers. While steel is stronger, there is likely never going to be a time you can break a Mossberg 500’s aluminum receiver. While the difference exists between the materials, there is no practical advantage to using steel over aluminum.

AR-15s are made from aluminum, and we trust it’ll work.

The most significant practical difference is the weight of the guns. Remingtons, on average, tend to be heavier guns by anywhere from a pound to half a pound when like vs. like is compared.

More weight isn’t exactly a good or bad thing, it’s just different. Stalking deer? Lightweight is nicer. Skeet shooting? Heavier makes for a smoother swing.

Magazine Tubes

Another somewhat hidden, but often desirable feature for shotguns is extending the magazine capacity. Shotguns are typically restricted to a relatively low ammunition capacity. The ability to add a few extra shots can be highly desirable.

With the Mossberg 500, it’s complicated. Adding more capacity is difficult because of the magazine and barrel design. To do so, you need a new barrel and matching tube to do so.

You can’t just screw on an extension and go for it. The barrel attaches directly to the magazine tube and not around it. The Mossberg 590 series corrects this and allows you to connect a magazine extension directly to the tube.

The Remington 870 is traditionally a simpler weapon to utilize when it comes to adding an extension. Remove the magazine cap and then screw on the extension.

Well, that was the old days. Now on a lot of models, they are dimpling the magazine tube.

This makes it impossible for the spring and for rounds to travel into an extension. It’s likely the tactical models don’t have this dimpled magazine tube, but a lot of the non-tactical models will.

The only solution is too remove the dimples yourself via power tools or pay a gunsmith to do it.

You can’t swap the magazine tube for another without a dimple because Remington solders the magazine tubes in place.

These soldered tubes can be a major hassle if you damage the tube and need to replace it.

With Mossberg designs, you simply have to heat up the Loctite and unscrew the magazine tube.

Extractors / Ejector

Improper extraction and ejection are likely the most common cause of firearm’s malfunction outside of ammo related issues. Needless to say, it’s an important function. Shotguns deal with an odd round when you think about it.

It’s a bulky hybrid of plastic and brass that’s often cumbersome, comes in various lengths, and can be all sorts of different weight and projectile types. Being able to extract and eject any and all shells are essential.

Remington uses a single extractor that grips the rim of the shells and rips them outwards.

Mossberg uses two extractors to help guarantee reliability. The dual extractors are great because if one breaks, the other will still work, and you can run the gun until you can repair it.

I’ve fired a lot of rounds from shotguns, especially 870s and 500s, and I’ve never had a single extractor break, but redundancy is often an effective safety measure.

The good news is both can be replaced at home with both guns.

Each gun’s ejector is a different story. Mossberg continues its tradition of being user accessible with an ejector that screws in. Remington continues to be the iPhone of shotguns with a riveted ejector making it challenging to replace.

I stripped a Mossberg 590 receiver for a friend, and it took a little heat gun action and a flat head screwdriver to remove the ejector. I wouldn’t know where to start with an 870.

The Shell Lifters

The shell lifters aren’t exactly something you think about when you first handle a shotgun.

Once you start loading and shooting a lot, and primarily when you shoot Mossberg 500s and 870s a lot, you notice that the Mossberg is more comfortable to load.

The Mossberg uses a patented shell lifter that is both skeletonized and in the always up position.

The Remington uses a standard shell lifter that stays down and acts as a gate to the gun. It’s a solid slab of metal that sits below the bolt and action. To load a shell, you press the shell lifter up and slide it into the tube.

The shell lifter can slow you down, and when you are going fast, it likes to pinch you.

The Mossberg skeletonized and always up shell lifter is out of the way, and you can smoothly load one or two shells with little effort.

The skeletonized lifter also allows you to fix malfunctions easier. You can reach through the bottom of the gun, and this can help you free a stuck shell.

The Small Things

Here are a few small things you may want to consider when purchasing either gun. These didn’t fit into any other category and are not significant enough to warrant their own category. So let’s not forget about the small things.

Adding an Optic

The Mossberg 500 series are all tapped and ready to add a scope rail and an optic. The Remington 870 is not universally tapped, which means a trip to the gun smith, or a Burris Speedbead system needs to be installed.

Check out more in our Best Shotgun Sights article.

Mini Shells

Mini shells are tons of fun! They are low recoil, easy to shoot, and decently affordable.

Both guns can fire them, but the Mossberg 500 series can be fitted with an adapter from Opsol.

This mini clip allows the mini shells to feed 100% of the time. The 870 cannot be fitted with this adapter.

Barrel Thickness

The Remington 870 has a thicker barrel than a standard 500. It’s equivalent to a Mossberg 590. You can buy the upgraded Mossberg to get the thicker, stronger barrel.

Price

The Mossberg 500 tends to be cheaper, but the Remington 870 is only a hair more expensive. It’s also fitted with a steel receiver and a thicker barrel. The 590 series are more expensive than the 870 Express models, as well.

A US Army Testing Procedure

The US Army has a testing procedure called the MIL-SPEC 3443 test, which is a brutal 3K round test that pushes shotguns to the edge.

The Mossberg series has been the only shotgun to pass this rigorous test.

Here’s us with our 590A1 and some Winchester 00 buckshot…

The requirement calls for a metal trigger group, so only the 590A1 and 500 MILS qualify to fit the criteria.

Customizability

If you want to customize your gun, you can go with either model and be quite successful with that goal. There are crazy amounts of parts out there for both weapons.

You can do almost anything.

You can swap stocks, pumps, add sights, side saddles, and more to each gun. You can do a ton with either, and it’s hard to say which is better overall.

Both guns are straightforward to customize, and you have plenty of options to do so.

Of course, we have articles to help you with both!

• Best Remington 870 Upgrades
• Best Mossberg 500 & 590 Upgrades

Which One is For You?

That’s a good question.

My chosen home defense shotgun is the Mossberg 590, but my favorite shotgun ever is my antique Ohio National Guard Remington 870.

Both guns have their favorites, and I will say Remington guns have been rough since 2007.

Once Freedom Group took over, quality went downhill noticeably.

However, they seem to have turned that around!

A lot of their new guns are looking, feeling, and shooting much better these days.

If you are having trouble deciding, let’s examine a few considerations.

• If you want a gun, you can service and fix yourself, choose the Mossberg 500 series.

• If you want a gun that uses a pistol grip with stock, then choose the Remington 870.

• If you want a gun that you can abuse and not spend a ton of money on buy a basic Mossberg 500.
• If you want a gun, you can beat up and likely pass on down to your kids, buy an OLDER Remington 870.
• If you’re left-handed, go with a Mossberg.
• If you want a gun that’s tight, smooth, and feels ultra-lux, go with the Remington 870 Wingmaster.

• If you want what the military uses, go with the Mossberg 590A1.

And if you want even more options, we also have a video on the Best Pump Action Shotguns for Beginners.

Conclusion

Both the Remington & Mossberg are super popular and reliable pump action shotguns. Mossberg has the ambidextrous safety, double-extractor, nicer shell lifter, tons of upgrades, and is used by the military. While Remington has the smoother action, steel receiver, and better pistol grip setup.

The right one for you is a personal choice, but now you have the tools to make that choice.

My big question to you is, which one is for you, and why? Let us know in the comments! Don’t forget to get some feed for your new shotty, take a look at The Best Shotgun Ammo: Home Defense & Target Shooting! Or if you want to upgrade it…Best Home Defense Shotgun Upgrades.

Flies and Roadrunner jigs were my most productive lures during my early years of crappie fishing. However, my selection of crappie lures has increased throughout the years as lure manufacturers continued to offer a variety of soft plastic baits for panfish. Some of the hottest soft plastic styles of crappie lures available today are double-tail grubs, minnow or shad imitators, twitch baits, and grubs.

Here’s a look at five Karl’s Amazing Baits for crappie and how you can use these lures to catch big slabs.

Martian

This is my favorite style of soft plastic baits for catching crappie in the winter when the fish are sluggish. Attached to a 1/16-ounce jighead, this lure can be fished ultra-slow because it doesn’t require much movement to make the thin twin tails quiver. I like to fish it vertically over deep brush piles and just let the movement of my boat create enough action on the lure to trigger bites from inactive crappie. The lure’s ribbed body is also ideal for holding scent gel in its ribs.

Mini Minnow

This is the soft plastic style I rely on for most of my crappie fishing tactics. The lure’s fluke-like design perfectly imitates the body of a minnow or young shad and its thin tail creates a subtle darting action similar to a fleeing baitfish. I can fish this lure vertically or horizontally for crappie suspended over brush piles and I frequently fish it 1 to 2 feet under a bobber to catch spawning crappie in the shallows. The lure’s subtle action and small profile make it ideal for tricking wary crappie in clear water.

Lil Twitchy

This miniature jerkbait features a classic minnow profile big crappie find irresistible. The lure’s single slender tail delivers a tantalizing quiver and shake with a twitch of the rod. I like to throw this lure on windy days when crappie are chasing shad along wind-blown rocky banks. It is also a good choice for fishing under a bobber with a twitch-and-pause retrieve.

Dub Grub

I rely on this grub for targeting aggressive crappie in dirty water. A heavier jighead such as a 1/8-ounce model will cause the lure to fall faster and generate the optimum action from its twin tails. I either cast this lure to brush piles and swim it over the cover or I pitch it into the brush and let it fall straight down to trigger strikes from crappie holding tight to the cover.

Paddle Grub

The kicking action of this 2-inch swimbait makes it the perfect choice for catching big crappie at various depths. When crappie are suspended high in the water column, I combine the swimbait with a 1/16-ounce darter jighead so the lure will fall slower and swim longer in the fish’s strike zone. I switch to a 1/8-ounce darter jighead for swimming the lure deeper in the water column. The paddletail provides plenty of kick so you can retrieve this lure at a slow, steady pace to trigger strikes from slab crappie.

Feature image credit: David Yang

Finding Your Ideal Baitcasting Reel: A Buyer’s Guide

Baitcasting reels are an essential piece of equipment for any serious fisherman. These reels are designed to give anglers greater control over their casts. They are typically used for targeting larger fish species, such as bass, musky and pike. Unlike spinning reels, which are designed to be easy to use, baitcasting reels require a bit more skill to operate. With practice, however, you can achieve greater casting distance and accuracy.

While the right baitcasting reel can help you cast further with greater accuracy, with so many different models and brands available, it can be difficult to know what to look for when selecting your new reel. In this buyer’s guide, we’ll go through each of the key features you should consider when choosing a baitcasting reel, so you can make an informed decision.

How To Choose the Right Baitcasting Reel

Gear ratio

The gear ratio is the number of times the spool rotates for each turn of the handle. It determines how quickly you can retrieve your line and how much power you have when reeling in a fish. A higher gear ratio means a faster retrieve, but with less power. A lower gear ratio means slower retrieval but more power. When choosing a gear ratio, consider the type of fishing you’ll be doing and the size of the fish you’re targeting.

Line capacity

Line capacity refers to the amount of fishing line the spool can hold. It’s important to choose a reel with enough line capacity for the type of fishing you’ll be doing. For example, if you’ll be fishing in deeper waters or targeting larger fish, you’ll need a reel with a higher line capacity.

Drag system

The drag system determines how much resistance the fish feels when it pulls on the line. A good drag system is essential for reeling larger fish without breaking your line. Look for a reel with a smooth drag system that’s easy to adjust.

Bearings

Bearings are important for smooth operation and the longevity of the reel. The more bearings a reel has, the smoother it will operate. Opt for a reel with high-quality bearings that are corrosion-resistant.

Brake system

The brake system is designed to prevent backlash and ensure accurate casting. There are two types of brake systems: magnetic and centrifugal. Magnetic brakes are easier to adjust but may not be as effective in windy conditions. Centrifugal brakes are more effective in windy conditions but may be harder to adjust.

Handle material and grip

The handle material and grip are important for comfort and control. Look for a reel with a comfortable grip that’s easy to hold, even when wet. Handles made from materials like cork or EVA foam are popular choices.

Frame and body construction

The frame and body construction of a baitcasting reel can affect its durability and weight. Look for a reel with a lightweight but strong frame and body. Materials like aluminum and graphite are popular choices for high-quality reels.

Weight distribution

The weight distribution of a reel can affect how it feels in your hand and how easy it is to cast. Look for a reel with a balanced weight distribution that feels comfortable to hold and cast.

Anti-reverse system

An anti-reverse system is designed to prevent the handle from turning backward when you’re reeling in a fish. This can help you maintain tension on the line and prevent the fish from escaping. Look for a reel with a high-quality anti-reverse system that’s easy to engage and disengage.

Line guide system

The line guide system helps prevent your line from tangling and ensures smooth casting. Look for a reel with a high-quality line guide system that’s easy to adjust.

Price point

Baitcasting reels can range in price from less than $50 to several hundred dollars. While a more expensive reel may offer better features and durability, it’s important to choose a reel that meets your needs and fits your budget.

Brand reputation and customer reviews

When choosing a baitcasting reel, it’s important to consider the reputation of the brand and read customer reviews. Look for a brand with a good reputation for quality and customer service. Reading customer reviews can give you an idea of how well the reel performs in real-world fishing situations.