The following ammunition cartridge ballistics information and chart can be used to approximately compare 10mm Auto vs .454 Casull ammo rounds. Please note, the following information reflects the estimated average ballistics for each caliber and does not pertain to a particular manufacturer, bullet weight, or jacketing type. As such, the following is for comparative information purposes only and should not be used to make precise predictions of the trajectory, performance, or true ballistics of any particular 10mm Auto or .454 Casull rounds for hunting, target shooting, plinking, or any other usage. The decision for which round is better for a given application should be made with complete information, and this article simply serves as a comparative guide, not the final say. For more detailed ballistics information please refer to the exact round in question or contact the manufacturer for the pertinent information. True 10mm Auto and .454 Casull ballistics information can vary widely from the displayed information, and it is important to understand that the particular characteristics of a given round can make a substantive difference in its true performance.
Caliber Type Velocity (fps) Energy (ft-lb) 10mm Auto Handgun 1200 550 .454 Casull Handgun 1600 1700
Velocity
As illustrated in the chart, 10mm Auto rounds – on average – achieve a velocity of about 1200 feet per second (fps) while .454 Casull rounds travel at a velocity of 1600 fps. To put this into perspective, a Boeing 737 commercial airliner travels at a cruising speed of 600 mph, or 880 fps. That is to say, 10mm Auto bullets travel 1.4 times the speed of a 737 airplane at cruising speed, while .454 Casull bullets travel 1.8 times that same speed.
Various calibers
Energy
Furthermore, the muzzle energy of a 10mm Auto round averages out to 550 ft-lb, while a .454 Casull round averages out to about 1700 ft-lb. One way to think about this is as such: a foot-pound is a unit of energy equal to the amount of energy required to raise a weight of one pound a distance of one foot. So a 10mm Auto round exits the barrel with kinetic energy equal to the energy required for linear vertical displacement of 550 pounds through a one foot distance, while a .454 Casull round exiting the barrel has energy equal to the amount required to displace 1700 pounds over the same one foot distance. As a rule of thumb, when it comes to hunting, muzzle energy is what many hunters look at when deciding on what caliber of firearm / ammunition to select. Generally speaking, the higher the muzzle energy, the higher the stopping power. Again, the above is for comparative information purposes only, and you should consult the exact ballistics for the particular 10mm Auto or .454 Casull cartridge you’re looking at purchasing.
Please click the above links to take a look at all of the 10mm Auto and .454 Casull ammo we have in stock and ready to ship, and let us know any parting thoughts in the comment section below.
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Every year I see pictures of downed deer feeders with their contents spilled out on the ground like a giant steel pinata. Most likely culprits are hogs and cattle. On our ranch in the Texas Hill Country we employ multiple wildlife corn and protein feeders inside of a pen that have helped tremendously at keeping wild hogs from destroying feeders and has actually cut the hog traffic on the ranch to almost none.
What you will need.
6 Feed lot panels. 60″ tall and 16′ in length. If you can round up used panels even better as these will need to be cut. If you have old roll wire lying around that will work as well. 48″ tall panels can be purchased as well and this will save you from having to cut the panels down
24 T posts.
The ever popular T-post driver.
Bailing wire…the fix it all.
When you decided on your feeder location stick a t post in the center temporarily, then with the help of a friend measure out approximately 15 from the t-post outwards, you are shooting for a 30′ diameter enclosure. Most feeders will cast around a 24′ spread of corn. Mark the spot and continue to measure out several more spots from center to outer edge. When you have a general area laid out begin by driving a few t posts along the perimeter every 10′-12′ feet. Once your a circle beings to take shape start placing the panels, smaller holes on bottom, on the outside of the T-posts and secure with bailing wire making sure your panels over lap at least one section of the squares. We want to keep animals out so it is important the t-posts are inside the panels. Now your circle may vary in size but 24′-30′ is about what you’re shooting for. You may find that your panels do not reach each other when your circle is complete and that is ok. This is where you’ll want to install your access gate. This can be anything from a smaller section of panel to an old chain link fence gate. If you find your panels over lap a bit at the end over your circle that is ok as this may be used for a gate. Now place the rest of your tposts inside the panels, you want to have about 3 tposts per panel. Now go to town with your bailing wire. Set your feeder up. Stake the legs down with T-posts! This will protect it in case the swine manage to get under the panel as they have been known to pull up the panels if they can get their snouts under it.
Now deer are excellent jumpers but we still like to cut the top section down with bolt cutters to about 48″-50″. Make sure you cut down to the next section as you don’t want any steel protrusions sticking up that may injure wildlife. This is where using old field panels is great, not many folks like cutting brand new ones down if they plan on reusing them after deer season. Some people will actually cut smaller holes in the panel close to the ground for fawns to get into the pens, but remember if a fawn can get in so can smaller hogs. We have been running these pens for years and have yet to have a feral hog get into one. There is always a possibility as hogs are jumpers as well! You can use roll wire as well as this is a fairly inexpensive set up. Always reuse old material lying around as it will save you money that you can be using to fill the feeders with. Hope this helps, good luck Bone Hunters!
When .223 Remington just won’t do it, many turn to the venerable .308 Winchester. The classic “battle rifle” is a term dedicated to semi-automatic rifles chambered in a full-power rifle caliber — typically the .308 Win. The .308 Winchester often offers the extra performance needed compared to the .223 Remington, and provides shooters with the upper hand.
Whether it’s for fun at the range or in preparation for a SHTF scenario, here are the top five .308 Winchester semi-auto rifles that you can bet your life on.
There are several reasons to choose a .308 Winchester semi-auto rifle over something chambered in a lesser caliber. The two main reasons being superior ballistics and increased effective range. For example, when looking at two comparable Federal loads with a FMJ BT projectile, we see that a 62-grain .223 Remington has a velocity of 3,020 fps and produces 1,255 ft/lbs of energy, while a 150-grain .308 Winchester has a velocity of 2,820 fps and produces 2,648 ft/lbs of energy. This means that, on average, your rifle chambered in .308 Winchester will produce over twice the amount of energy as your standard .223 Remington rifle.
Additionally, the .308 Winchester has a max effective range of roughly 1,000 yards according to the USMC, while the .223 Remington only has a max effective range of around 600 yards. This allows shooters, with proper marksmanship fundamentals and abilities, to put more distance between them and a threat.
In a SHTF or bug-out situation, you could also use a .308 rifle to hunt a wide variety of game. This could be beneficial for survival with the right skills and conditions in place.
Cons of Using .308
Though there are a number of reasons to choose a .308 Winchester semi-auto rifle over something chambered in 5.56 NATO, there are also some cons. The primary impairment will be weight — rifle weight, loaded magazines, and spare ammo will all be heavier. If you are going to be carrying a full loadout for an extended time period or distance, the extra weight exacts a toll on the body. It can also account for limitations on the amount of additional gear you would otherwise be able to carry.
The increased power of the .308 cartridge comes with an increase in recoil, muzzle blast, and report. This makes the rifle harder to fire accurately and can slow down follow-up shots. It can also have a negative effect on your vision or hearing when firing in certain environments, such as indoors or at night, due to the excess concussion and muzzle flash.
You will also have a reduced capacity compared to a 5.56 rifle, moving from a standard 30-round magazine to a 20-round mag. You can find extended .308 magazines, but you will still be dealing with the additional weight and lower capacity compared to extended 5.56 mags.
1. Smith & Wesson M&P10 Sport
Starting off the list as the most budget-friendly option, the Smith & Wesson M&P10 is an AR-10 platform .308 Winchester rifle. This provides shooters with good parts compatibility for upgrading or replacing accessories and components. Constructed of durable 7075-T6 upper and lower receivers, the M&P10 is capable of taking a beating. The 16-inch barrel provides excellent accuracy while keeping the rifle lightweight and maneuverable at only about 6.5 lbs.
The Sport variant comes with a standard A2 handguard, pistol grip, and stock, but the rifle is also available in different configurations depending on your preferences. Overall, the M&P10 Sport allows shooters to get into a quality .308 Winchester semi-auto rifle without breaking the bank.
2. DS Arms SA58 FAL
Introduced in 1946 and dubbed “the right arm of the free world,” the FAL is a well-known .308 battle rifle. The DS Arms SA58 provides an improved version of the original FAL with the inclusion of an M-Lok handguard for attaching accessories, top rail for mounting optics, adjustable side-folding stock, enhanced ambidextrous magazine release, and extended cocking handle knob. Additionally, the rifle features a 16-inch medium-contour fluted barrel and is equipped with an elevation adjustable front sight post along with a quick-adjust dual aperture rear sight.
DS Arms also offers a standard version of the SA58 with an 18-inch barrel and standard furniture that is more in line with a traditional FAL. All parts of the DS Arms SA58 are high-quality and made in the USA.
3. Springfield M1A SOCOM 16
The Springfield Armory M1A SOCOM 16 is the highest evolution of the trusted M1A/M14 series of rifles. The SOCOM 16 model features a 16.25-inch barrel for a more compact and maneuverable overall package. The SOCOM variant of the M1A also incorporates an optic mount, as well as an XS Sights tritium front sight post with an enlarged military aperture ghost ring rear sight that is adjustable for windage and elevation. The M1A includes a 10-round magazine, but 20-round magazines are available. If classic wood and steel is more your style, take a look at the standard M1A.
4. IWI Tavor 7
The IWI Tavor 7 is unique, in that it features a bullpup design. Bullpup rifles move the action to the rear of the firearm. This makes for a more compact rifle, even with the 16.5-inch barrel length. The Tavor is highly regarded as a durable and dependable rifle — partially due to the short-stroke gas piston design with a rotating closed bolt.
The Tavor 7 incorporates an ambidextrous safety lever, magazine release, and bolt catch. Additionally, the charging handle and ejection side can be reversed, making this a great choice for both right and left-handed shooters.
5. FN SCAR 17S
One of the most well-known .308 Winchester semi-auto rifles is the FN SCAR 17S. The .308 SCAR comes in two configurations, a shorter version with a 16-inch free-float barrel called the 17S, and a longer version with a 20-inch barrel called the 20S. Purpose-built for long-range shooting, the short-stroke gas piston system efficiently absorbs recoil for greater precision and faster follow-up shots.
The SCAR features an ambidextrous safety lever, magazine release, and a charging handle that mounts on the right or left side. Further, the SCAR utilizes a telescoping, side-folding polymer stock with an adjustable cheek piece allowing the rifle to be fitted to the shooter.
Honorable Mention: IWI Galil Ace
The Galil Ace is often looked at as a sort of modernized and upgraded AK-47. Typically chambered in 7.62x39mm, there is also a .308 Winchester version of the Galil. It features a 16.5-inch chrome-lined, cold hammer forged barrel and utilizes a 20-round magazine. When compared to the AK, the reciprocating charging handle has been moved to the left side of the milled steel receiver, allowing for weak hand operation.
The Galil features a closed rotating bolt, long-stroke gas piston system that makes it incredibly reliable. Additionally, the rifle features adjustable iron sights with a tritium front post and a two-dot tritium rear aperture. However, the Galil Ace also incorporates a full-length top rail to mount an optic. An adjustable, side-folding stock makes for easy storage and transportation, and allows the shooter to fit the rifle to the desired length of pull.
Conclusion: Best .308 Winchester Rifles
Sometimes having a full-power battle rifle is just what the doctor prescribed. They shoot farther, hit harder, and have a distinct feel that no standard AR-15 can match. So, if you’ve decided that a semi-auto .308 rifle is for you, any of the options on this list are sure to serve you well.
What is your favorite .308 “battle rifle”? Let us know in the comment section.
Rifle actions come in different lengths to accommodate different lengths of bullets. Knowing the action length of a rifle is important to understand what length of bullet you can put in the rifle.
In general, cartridges under 2.8″ in overall length are considered short action. Cartridges between 2.8″ and 3.6″ are long action, and cartridges over 3.6″ require a magnum action. However, there are many exceptions such as the 6.5 PRC, which is considered a short-action cartridge despite its 2.955″ length.
The problem with that general rule is that there are so many exceptions. The exceptions occur because rifle and cartridge makers like to bend and shape what we consider “short action.” It also depends on the particular rifle. For example, Browning may make the action slightly longer than Winchester, so Browning may consider a cartridge as “short action” which would require a standard action in a Winchester rifle/magazine. It just depends.
It simply isn’t possible to give specific numbers such as those bolded above to say what is and isn’t a short action cartridge. Those are general guidelines, but there are many exceptions.
What is a short-action rifle? The term “short action” refers to a rifle designed to accept cartridges up to approximately 2.8″ in length, or similar to the length of a .308 Winchester. However, specific rifle designs sometimes accept slightly longer cartridges up to 2.955″ in a short action.
What is a long-action rifle? The term “long action” means a rifle that accepts cartridges between approximately 2.8″ and 3.6″. A common example of a long action is the .30-06 or the .270 Winchester. Long actions are sometimes referred to as “standard-length action.”
What Happens if an Action is Too Short for the Cartridge?
As you can see in the image above, this cartridge will not load in this rifle. This is a short-action rifle, with a cartridge that is too long to fit. The back of this cartridge is pushed all the way back against the bolt face, but the rear wall of the magazine, but the front of the bullet can’t fit down into the mag well. Even if this rifle were chambered for this round, it wouldn’t load because the cartridges wouldn’t fit in the action or the magazine.
This is a common issue when selecting a VLD bullet on a cartridge that is very close to the limit for the action.
Suppose you hand load a cartridge such as the 6.8 Western. Its cartridge overall length is 2.955″, which is right on the edge of what we could possibly call a “short-action” cartridge. You select a Berger VLD hunting bullet which is very long and slender, and you want to seat that bullet far out from the mouth of the case for better accuracy on your particular setup. It’s possible that the cartridge may not chamber in your particular rifle if the action is too short.
Each rifle will be slightly different in how long the “short action” will be. It may chamber in one rifle, but not another.
Deer hunting in Oklahoma is available from October 1st until the middle of January, and is regulated by the Oklahoma Department of Wildlife Conservation (ODWC). Different bag restrictions apply to hunting for antlerless deer in each of the state’s 10 antlerless deer zones. All you need to know about deer hunting seasons, permits, and laws in the Sooner State may be found in this page.
Hunting seasons, rules, and bag limits for deer are all established by the Oklahoma Department of Wildlife Conservation (ODWC). Different bag restrictions on antlerless deer are enforced in each of the state’s 10 antlerless deer zones. Both residents and non-residents need a hunting license, with choices including yearly and five-year permits. Depending on the method of hunting (archery, muzzleloader, or firearm), hunters must get the appropriate license. Certain permits are available for young hunters.
General Deer Season
MethodOklahoma Deer Seasons Start DateOklahoma Deer Seasons End DateBag Limits (Deer Archery)1-Oct-2315-Jan-24Six: Only two may be antlered. The hunter’s overall deer archery season quota of six deer is unaffected. (Youth Deer Gun)20-Oct-2322-Oct-23Two: One may be antlered. Antlerless mule deer cannot be harvested. The hunter’s combined season limit of six deer includes all juvenile deer gun season kills, but they do not count against the regular deer gun season limit of four. (Deer Muzzleloader)28-Oct-235-Nov-23Four: one may be antlered. Antlerless mule deer cannot be harvested. Zones limit antlerless animal harvests. Zone 1—No antlerless harvesting. Deer-free zones 2-8. 3-9 antlerless zones. One zone-10 antlerless. Antlerless Deer Zones. The hunter’s six-deer muzzleloader season restriction is unaffected. (Deer Gun)18-Nov-233-Dec-23Four: one may be antlered. Antlerless mule deer cannot be harvested. Zones limit antlerless animal harvests. One zone-1 antlerless deer. Deer-free zones 2-8. 3-9 antlerless zones. One zone-10 antlerless. Antlerless Deer Zones. The hunter’s six-deer season restriction is unaffected. (Holiday Antlerless Deer Gun)18-Dec-2331-Dec-23Two: Solely antlerless. Antlerless mule deer cannot be harvested. Hunters may shoot six deer every season, except holiday antlerless deer gun season deer.
Antlerless Deer Zones
Zone-1
Antlerless Days Zone 1Season Dates Archery SeasonOct 1, 2024 – Jan 15, 2024 Youth Deer Gun SeasonOct 20 – 22, 2024 Muzzleloader SeasonNo antlerless days Deer Gun SeasonNov 18 – Dec 3, 2024 Holiday Antlerless Deer Gun SeasonClosed
Deer hunters are only allowed to harvest a total of six deer throughout the season, with only two of those animals allowed to have antlers. The same holds true for other forms of hunting, such as young deer gun, muzzleloader, and gun seasons for deer. The last year total season restriction will be applied to any deer harvested between January 1 and January 15. Antlerless deer killed during the holiday antlerless deer gun season or during a controlled hunt do not count against the combined season quota.
Elk Hunting Seasons
Elk Consolidated Season Limit
SpeciesDateBag Limit ElkJan. 1 – Jan. 31, Two ElkArchery, youth elk gun, elk muzzleloader, elk gun, holiday antlerless elk gun seasonsTwo Controlled huntsNot Included Total Combined SeasonTwo
Open Zones Seasons
TypeHunting Dates Elk ArcheryOct 1, 2024 – Jan 15, 2024 Youth Elk GunOct 13, 2024 – Oct 15, 2024 Elk MuzzleloaderOct 28, 2024 – Nov 5, 2024 Elk GunNov 18, 2024 – Dec 3, 2024 Holiday Antlerless Elk GunDec 18, 2024 – Dec 31, 2024
Elk Open Zones Bag Limit
Zone NameBag Limit Panhandle ZoneTwo elk (1 antlerless) Special Northwest ZoneOne elk, regardless of sex Northwest ZoneOne elk, regardless of sex Northeast ZoneOne elk, regardless of sex Southeast ZoneOne elk, regardless of sex Southwest ZoneOne elk, regardless of sex
Special Southwest Zone
Elk Special Southwest Zone SeasonHunting DatesArcheryOct 7-11, 2024 Dec 2-6, 2024 MuzzleloaderSeason closed GunOct 5-8, 2024 Dec 7-10, 2024 Youth Elk GunOct 13-15, 2024 Additional Antlerless Gun Season (antlerless only)Nov 18 – Dec 3, 2024 Jan 1-31, 2024
Note:
Limit of two (2) elk per hunter per zone; one (1) must be antlerless.
There is no harvest quota in this zone.
Regulations
You must first get permission from the owner to hunt on private land.
It is prohibited to have a deer that was taken by another individual without the proper tags.
Hunting from a motorized land, air, or sea vehicle is prohibited, as is firing over a public road, highway, or railroad.
Prime shooting time is between half an hour before sunrise and half an hour after dark.
While it is prohibited to employ dogs for deer hunting, you may use a leashed dog to locate a fallen buck if you first notify a game warden.
It is forbidden to bury a dead animal in a water source such as a well, spring, pond, or stream, or to leave the corpse of a dead animal within a quarter mile of an occupied structure or public road.
Hunters must wear at least 400 square inches of hunter daylight bright orange, including a hat and clothing, to meet with requirements.
The total season deer bag limit is six; however, only two may be antlerless (defined as having at least 3 inches of antler protruding above the hairline).
Remember the following rules to prevent weapon accidents: Always assume a weapon is loaded, point the muzzle away from yourself and others, keep your finger off the trigger until you are ready to fire, and be aware of what is beyond your objective.
Keep broadheads covered, choose your target deer, and ensure there are no other deer or people in the area.
Hunters should understand how to correctly climb and secure tree stands, and they should always use a full-body safety harness and a safety line to avoid accidents from falls.
Rather of lugging anything up the ladder, climb above it and stroll down into it. The hauling is done by hand.
Dogs are not permitted to be used to hunt bears, deer, elk, antelope, or turkeys.
The hunter has 24 hours after leaving the hunting area to report his or her capture to the Department, whether it be a deer, elk, antelope, bear, or turkey. Following the submission of a report, a body tag or online confirmation number will be supplied. This tag or confirmation number must accompany the corpse at all phases of processing and storage at a commercial facility.
No person shall take, attempt to take, catch, capture, kill, or attempt to kill any deer, feral animal, or other wildlife, except fish and frogs or as provided by law, by means of a vehicle-mounted spotlight or other powerful light, by what is commonly referred to as “headlighting” (or “spotlighting”), or any light enhancement device used at night (night scope).
Except for deer gun seasons, an owner or agricultural lessee or their authorized agent may use any legal means of take, day or night, to safeguard agricultural crops, animals, processed feed, seed, or other commodities utilized in the production of an agricultural commodity.
Reporting & Deer Tagging
A deer harvested in Oklahoma must have a field tag attached as soon as possible. The hunter’s name, customer ID number, date of harvest, and time must all be included on the tag. Once the deer have been tagged, they may be field dressed and relocated. Within 24 hours after capturing a deer, the hunter must register the animal via the Go Outdoors Oklahoma smartphone app, the online E-check system, or an authorized department personnel. Checking the deer results in the hunter receiving a carcass tag or an online confirmation number, both of which must stay with the deer until the corpse is processed or stored.
Chronic Wasting Disease (CWD)
Deer are among the animals most at risk for contracting Chronic Wasting Illness (CWD), a deadly wasting disease of the nervous system. Holes in the brains of infected deer have been discovered in many locations in the United States and Canada. However, in 2022, a case of CWD was discovered only 2.5 miles south of the Oklahoma-Texas line. The Oklahoma Department of Wildlife Conservation set up a Selective Surveillance area in the state’s southern region as a reaction. In this zone, only specific sections of killed deer and elk are permitted to leave the area, and the whole animals must be processed before leaving. Hunters are asked to volunteer their killed deer for testing, and the CDC advises against ingesting meat from animals that seem unwell or test positive for CWD. draft a few bullet points
Hours for Deer Hunting and Shooting.
An hour and a half before the scheduled dawn to an hour and a half after the scheduled dusk. Visit the website of the Oklahoma Department of Wildlife here.
Define antlered deer.
Any deer, male or female, with antlers that extend at least three inches above the hairline on either side.
To make many of the more advanced tools and weapons associated with wilderness survival you will need two animal products, sinew and rawhide. What sinew is, how to obtain it, and how to process it is the subject of this post.
What is Sinew?Sinew can be obtained from the tendons of any mammal. Tendons are the tough stringy things that attach muscles to bones. When these tendons are processed into sinew they provide a wonderful material that can be used to make super strong cordage, good sewing thread, and they can be used as a binding twine to attach arrowheads, arrow fletchings, knife blades, spear points, drill points and etc. Sinew is as tough as nylon, and it is impregnated with its own natural glue that can be activated with a little moisture. Sinew shrinks a little when it dries so that is binds things together tightly. Sinew will last for hundreds of years if it is protected from moisture. In short, sinew is a super material that has no modern equivalent. The only down-side to sinew is that it must be kept dry. If you get it wet it will soften and stretch, and whatever you have bound together with it will come apart. If you think that any sinew that you have used may be exposed to moisture, you must coat it with pine sap or some other agent that will waterproof it.
How do You Obtain Sinew?One of the most widely available sources of sinew is from the deer, although elk or buffalo will work just as well. The most useful sinews are located in the lower legs and along the upper back lying over the back straps. If you hunt deer you can remove both the leg and back sinews when you are butchering. If you have friends that hunt you can ask them to bring you the lower legs when they butcher. The lower legs have no usable meat on them and most people just cut them off and throw them away. Hunters will usually be glad to give you this part of their kill even if they do think you’re a little strange for wanting it. You can even go to most packing houses during deer season and they are often glad to get rid of any legs that they have. All of my friends know that I want deer legs and I usually get anywhere from twenty to fifty a year just for the asking. Pictured below: deer legHow do You Process Sinew?To remove the sinews, you need a sharp knife or a good sharp flake of flint. Slice down the back of the leg from knee joint to just above the dew claws and peel the skin back. Lying just below the skin is a white membrane. This membrane encases the tendon which lies in a shallow groove down the back of the leg bone.
Split open the membrane and you will see a milky white cord looking thing. This is the tendon. You can usually slip your finger under the edge of the tendon and lift it up out of the bone a little. When you get the tendon up out of the groove, run your knife up and down to loosen the tendon even more. I usually run my knife down toward the hoof, and when I can’t go any farther, I turn the blade up and slice through the tendon freeing that end. You can then grab the tendon with you hand and peel it out down toward the knee joint. When you pull up as much of the tendon as you can get, cut that end off with your knife. There may be some membrane left sticking to the tendon (kind of a slimy case) and if you can remove this it will be helpful although it’s not vitally necessary.When you have a white floppy tendon in your hand, the hard part is done. Just set the tendon out in the sun or on the kitchen drain board if your spouse is out of town. In less than twenty-four hours the soft wet tendon will be hard, dry, and kind of a translucent yellow color. It looks a lot like plastic. Now take the dried tendon and use a smooth round rock or the round end of a ball peen hammer and start pounding. What ever you pound with, it needs to be rounded. Flat edges, like the flat of a hammer or axe, will cut the fibers in the sinew. As you pound, the sinew will start to turn white, and it will begin to separate into fluffy white fibers. You can now take you fingers and pull apart the fibers is small bundles about the thickness of a pencil lead or smaller. These little fiber bundles are what you’re looking for. You can use them to back a bow, make a bow string, sew leather together, tie on arrowheads etc.To use the sinew to, for example, tie on an arrow head; all you have to do is pop a piece in your mouth and chew on it a little. Don’t be squeamish. It’s no different than chewing on a piece of deer jerky. The saliva in your mouth and the gentle chewing will soften the sinew in seconds. Don’t chew too long or you will wash all of the glue out of the sinew.
When the sinew is soft remove it from your mouth and wrap it around your arrowhead. You don’t have to tie it off because the sinew will stick to itself. Set it in the sun for twenty or thirty minutes and it will dry hard and tight. Coat the sinew with melted pine sap or carpenter’s glue and let it dry. Pictured below: sinew bow string, arrowhead, spearhead, and knife blade all attached with sinew; and sinew backing on an elm wood bow.That’s all there is to it. Amazing isn’t it!
The story of kangaroos being released into the Wyoming landscape fooled just about everyone.
On April 1, County10.com announced that the Wyoming Wild Game Department had “released the first of five planned batches of 90 Antilopine Kangaroos into the Wyoming outdoors.”
Project Sage Hopper, as it was dubbed, was meant to increase wildlife-viewing opportunities, while also providing greater hunting options for outdoorsmen and women. The well-written piece had plenty of quotable lines from wildlife officials, as well as links to all of the proper wildlife agencies.
The trouble with the story was that it was a hoax! A wonderful, convincing, magnificent hoax.
The story spread like wildfire across social media, with seemingly only a few astute readers catching onto the chicanery. The majority of people, from all of the comments I read on the various repostings of the story, seemed to have swallowed the tale hook, line and sinker.
Many folks expressed their confusion. “Why would they do this?” they asked.
More expressed their outrage and disgust with the wildlife agencies allegedly responsible for introducing a non-native species into the Wyoming environment.
I shared the story on my own page, Stumpjack Outdoors, and had to actually delete a couple of comments because they were over the top in the vulgarity and passionate anger they expressed.
Some folks decried Project Sage Hopper with declarations that the WWGD’s release of the first 90 kangaroos would surely destroy native animal populations, while others heralded the increased hunting opportunities that would result. Others wondered aloud whether or not the meat from the marsupials would be edible or how they would adapt to the harsh Wyoming winters.
It was truly a convincing hoax. My own wife paused as she read the article, being taken in for a moment. It was gloriously clever.
But alas, the pictures shown in the piece were not of kangaroos being released as part of a Wyoming migration initiative. They were of mule deer, with the featured image being photoshopped to show a kangaroo bounding away instead of an actual collared mule deer:
If people were sold on much of the content of the article a tip-off to the phoniness of it should have been in a final sentence, where the author declared that “A short-list for future proposed introductions include the koala, wallaby and the endangered Tasmanian Devil.”
If you were fortunate enough to also see a follow-up piece published later the same day by The Brine Shrimp, you would have read how the ill-mannered kangaroos were already wreaking havoc with the local population. The roos were allegedly engaged in drunken acts of vandalism, breaking and entering and other acts of mayhem.
The report stated:
Jed Cummings, a Coalville resident said “I went outside today to go to work and noticed broken glass on the ground by my truck. The kangaroos stole a few CDS from my collection. They were pretty selective about what they took. Men at Work, Midnight Oil, AC-DC, Keith Urban, Olivia Newton John and Crowded House CDs. They only took CDs made by Australian bands. That’s when I knew it was the damn kangaroos!”
It makes me smile to think of how beautifully conceived and executed this truly “fake news” piece was. It should make you smile too, even it temporarily fooled you.
Well done and hats off to whoever created this brilliant hoax.
Happy April Fools Day!
Like what you see here? You can read more great articles by David Smith at his Facebook page, Stumpjack Outdoors.
It has a single-shot action so you can shoot only once at a time.
The barrel is rifled which means that it has helical grooves inside the bore to make the bullet spin.
Moreover, the barrel is made of brass (an alloy made of copper and zinc).
Brass barrels give you lots of advantages:
First, it is pretty much non–corrosive and doesn’t rust easily.
Second, it is self-healing; as small scratches from inside the barrel, subsequent firing will smooth out these imperfections and give you much better accuracy.
In summary, having a brass barrel is a huge advantage that can make your gun last for years .
The Benjamin 397 doesn’t have a scope rail to mount the scope, so if you insist on using one, you will need either a Crosman 3/8 Intermount or the Air Venturi Weaver/Picatinny Intermount.
One thing to remember here is that you have to mount the ring in the center of the base to keep it solid,
And if the scope were any further back, it would interfere with the bolt handle
So you should get a forward-mounted scope to be able to pump the rifle in the normal way.
Even when you do mount the scope this way, the long eye relief will make the scope too hard to see through
So do yourself a favor and get theWilliam peep sight (shown below) instead
Air Venturi Williams 64 Peep Sight – 1
Air Venturi Williams 64 Peep Sight – 2
Because “pumper and peep are a match made in air gun heaven”, ya know.
Velocity, accuracy and power
The maximum velocity of this gun is 800 FPS.
This is a medium velocity compared to other .177 pellet guns on the market
And how about accuracy?
Chrony tests give us the results as follows:
.177 Pellets
Number of pumps
FPS
FPE
7.4 grains pellet
3
570
5.34
7.9 gr pellet
3
540
5.12
10.5 gr pellets
3
475
5.26
7.9 gr pellet
4
600
6.32
10.5 gr pellet
4
535
6.68
7.4 gr pellet
6
725
8.64
7.9 gr pellet
6
680
8.11
10.5 gr pellets
6
610
8.68
7.4 gr pellet
8
775
9.87
7.9 gr pellet
8
740
9.61
10.5 gr pellet
8
635
9.4
Crosman Premier Hollowpoint 7.9 gr
8
699
8.57
Dynamit Nobel Gecko 7 gr pellet
8
740.4
8.52
Crosman SSP 4.0 gr
8
894.8
7.11
Gamo PBA Raptor 5.4 gr
8
789.8
7.48
10.5 gr CP Ultra Magnum
8
643.4
9.65
Crosman Premier Hollow Point
10
752
9.92
Crosman Premiere 7.9 gr
10
741
9.63
RWS Superdome
10
780
11.22
As you can see, the actual velocities are so close to the advertised numbers. That’s a good sign for buyers.
See the video below for more numbers:
Next, let’s take a look at the performance of this rifle – The common shooting groups achieved with Benjamin 397 are:
0.5” at 33 yardst,
3/4″ at 30 yards,
1” at 25 yards,
2” at 20 yards,
1 1/2” at 35 yards out of the box,
2” at 30 yards,
1/4″ at 40 yards,
1/4″ at 25 yards,
1/4″ at 15 meters with Crosman Premiere Hollow Point,
1/4″ and dime size at 30 – 40 yards.
Moreover, it can:
headshot a squirrel at 50 yards,
kill moles, squirrels,
hit a milk cap at 12-13 yards,
shoot a dove at 20-30 yards,
kill 2 birds with Crosman pointed 7.9 gr at 41 yards,
penetrate 3/8” in a phone book 2” thick with RWS target at 10 feet for 5 pumps,
penetrate 1/2″ phone book 2” thick at 10 feet for 5 pumps,
penetrate 1/2” in a 2” phone book with RWS target at 10 feet for 8 pumps,
penetrate 5/8” in a 2” phone book with Gamo gold pellet at 10 feet for 8 pumps.
This gun packsone hell of a punch and if you have a problem with backyard varmint then this is a quiet, fast way to get rid of them and have some fun in the process .
Shooting Ability
The effective shooting range of the 397 is up to 50 yards.
It is ideal for spinning paper targets, casual plinking, or pest control
Loudness
Many owners report that the Benjamin 397 is relatively loud.
You can try using a heavier pellet, more of the energy will be absorbed launching the pellet and it should be a little quieter
Maintenance
To maintain the seal for a long time, always remember to put 1 pump of air into the gun when you are done shooting whether you plan to shoot again the next day or not again for another 2 years.
Specifications
Caliber: .177
Velocity: 800 FPS
Loudness: 4 – Medium – High
Barrel Length: 19.25”
Overall Length: 36.25”
Shot Capacity: Single shot
Cocking Effort: 3-8 pumps
Barrel: Rifled
Front Sight: Blade and Ramp
Rear Sight: Adjustable for windage and elevation
Scopeable: No
Trigger : Two-stage non-adjustable
Buttplate: plastic
Suggested for: Small game hunting/plinking
Trigger pull: 5.5 lbs
Action: Bolt-Action
Safety: Manual
Powerplant: Multi-pump pneumatic
Function: single-shot
Weight: 5.5 lbs
Customer review
Customers are generally satisfied with the quality of this gun.
In positive reviews, they love this gun because of its classic design, ease of handling, superb accuracy, and exciting knockdown power.
Nothing arises as a serious issue.
There are a few complaints here and there about mounting the scope on this gun
But as I said earlier in this review, you’re better off getting the William peep sight for maximum performance.
Pros and Cons
Pros
Cons
Handsome woodstock
Solid construction
Ergonomic Monte Carlo design
Long-lasting brass barrel
Actual velocity close to advertised numbers
Impressive accuracy
Fantastic power
Quiet
Decent open sight
No scope or accessory rail but you can fix this problem as I said earlier in this review
Price
The price for this rifle is about 150 dollars.
It’s a good price if you consider all the pros and cons of this gun.
Oh, and remember to save some bucks to get the Intermount if you insist on using the scope on this gun.
It’s built to last for years with the simple but effective operation, classic design, great power, and amazing accuracy.
For those interested in firearms and ammunition, you might want to explore more on 357 magnum brass to enhance your knowledge of ammunition components and reloading options. Additionally, if you’re looking to optimize your shooting experience, it’s essential to stay informed about the various ammunition choices available.
Ask most any experienced turkey hunter and they can quickly rattle off the names of the four subspecies or races of wild turkey recognized by The National Wild Turkey Federation for purposes of their Grand Slam. A fair number could probably add a fifth for the North American Slam and a sixth for the World Slam. For those not already familiar with them, they are as follows:
Eastern – The Eastern is the largest and most wide-spread race, occurring in every state east of the Mississippi River and along the length of the river’s western side, as well as eastern portions of several plains states and Texas. They are the largest (heaviest) race, sport the longest beards and are best distinguished by chestnut brown tips of their tail feathers and tail coverts. They’re strong, deep-throated gobbles are symbolic of the wild turkey.
Osceola – The Osceola (or Florida) turkey has the narrowest range, occurring only in central and south Florida. They closely resemble Easterns except they tend to be leaner with longer legs, and their primary wing feathers have heavy black barring, as opposed to Eastern where the black-white barring is more even. Their gobble is essentially indistinguishable from an Eastern.
Rio Grande – The Rio Grande’s range spans roughly from Kansas, south through Texas and into Northeastern Mexico, with transplanted populations in California and Oregon (and Hawaii). They are best distinguished by the tan tips of their tail feathers and tail coverts. Their gobble is noticeably different from that of Eastern and Osceola, being more high-pitched and warbly.
Merriam’s – The Merriam’s is scattered across parts of Arizona, New Mexico, up through the mountain states into Nebraska, the Dakotas, and along the Washington, Oregon and Idaho borders. It is best distinguished by the light buff to white tail band and coverts, and showing more white than dark banding in the primaries. While similar to the Rio, its gobble is even higher pitched and softer.
Those are the general guidelines, but for every rule there are exceptions. A century ago, much of what is now their current range was unoccupied by wild turkeys. Thanks to the efforts of state wildlife agencies and NWTF volunteers, turkeys have been restored to most of their historical range through trap and transfer programs. But the folks conducting those efforts weren’t too particular about where their birds came from, as long as they were wild birds. As a result, current subspecies distribution is not nearly as distinct as it once was. In general, the variance is local or regional. For example, Massachusetts’ turkeys came from New York, and Maine’s came from Vermont and Connecticut, but variability is all over the map.
Alabama provides an interesting example. In areas that were repopulated with transplants, the turkeys resemble those in neighboring states. But in areas where the native stock was never extirpated, turkeys look more like Osceola turkeys, with slim bodies and long legs. Some think these birds and Osceolas are representative of a true southeastern strain. Then there are more glaring exceptions. The most extreme is probably Washington, where you can find Eastern, Rio Grande and Merriam’s.
While man played the predominant hand, some of the racial integration was and still is done by the birds themselves, mostly where the geographical range of subspecies overlap. There, you’ll find a lot of hybridization. In east-central Kansas, for example, you may find birds that gobble like Easterns but look more like Rios, and vice versa. And they tend to be among the largest. Nebraska and South Dakota have hybridization of Eastern and Merriam’s. Occasionally there’s just no explanation for what you observe. I hunted a ranch south of San Antonio where we shot birds that had that silly little girl, laughing gobble of a Rio Grande, but looked like Easterns, with brown tail bands and coverts. And on a single hunt in western Nebraska I killed three birds, one resembling an Eastern, one a Rio and the third looked pure Merriam’s. Because translocation and hybridization have led to so much diverse integration, taxonomists tend to ignore subspecies or races and simply lump them all under one species. The lines on a map distinguishing subspecies range are largely just that, lines on a map. However, they do serve as geographic boundaries for purposes of recording your Grand Slam. To my knowledge, Texas is the only state has separate regulations for different subspecies (but I could be wrong about that.)
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Management
Back when I was a budding wildlife student, my professors would tell us that much of wildlife management is people management, and that’s especially true when it comes to wild turkeys. For the most part, the birds do quite well if left to fend for themselves. At the state level, most management programs simply involve regulating hunter harvest to ensure the resource remains healthy and renewable. However, there’s a lot that can be done at the local level to produce and maintain healthier populations.
When it comes to turkey habitat, the good news is, most of what you do to manage or improve the deer habitat on your ground also benefits turkeys. Both are considered edge species, preferring the ecotone, or interface between habitat types – so, in general, the more edge and diversity, the better the habitat. Beyond that, there are some more specific steps you can take.
However, it’s difficult to get too specific with turkey habitat management recommendations because conditions vary so much across the species’ range, and because they’re such an adaptable species. In general, you want to maximize the general habitat variables: food, cover, water and space. Then look for the lowest hole in the bucket – which element is in least abundance – and patch it. And as with deer, you want to make sure your habitat meets the turkey’s changing needs throughout all four seasons.
Year-Round
Let’s start with their year-round needs, and at the top of the list is “roost trees.” Turkeys need a place to sleep at night. In my part of the world, it’s usually a big white pine. If the birds can find one, they’ll shun all other suitable trees. Height provides protection from terrestrial predators, and thick evergreen branches offer protection from owls and the elements. In the south it might be a giant oak or other hardwood, which are usually in good supply in bottom lands and stream protection zones. Out west, it’s likely to be a cottonwood, which you’ll also find near stream bottoms and shelter belts. But as mentioned, turkeys make do with what they have, and I’ve seen birds in Texas roost on power poles, shooting houses and 10 foot tall mesquite bushes. Bottom line – try to keep sufficient roost trees on the property, the more and the bigger, the better, at least when it comes to turkeys.
Just like whitetails, turkeys love edge habitat, and many things you do to help whitetails will also benefit turkeys. Here you see the stomach contents of a recently harvested gobbler – lots of acorns, some berries, grubs, green grass shoots, and it even looks like there are three #4 shot pellets.
Spring
Spring means green-up, an increasing abundance of herbaceous greens. The birds can usually find enough to eat on their own, but give them more in the form of food plots and they’ll be better off for it, now and later on. Again, your deer plots will do just fine, but if you want to plant specifically for turkeys it’s hard to beat clover and chufa. The former you can plant almost anywhere while the latter requires loose, sandy soils. Gobblers need strutting areas. A tom will strut most anywhere when he’s in the mood but he’d much rather be in the open, where the ladies can see him, and he can see predators. That could be food plots, or just logging roads and two-tracks, all things in fairly good supply on most managed properties.
More important is spring nesting cover. Somewhat like a strutting tom, a hen will nest where she has to, but she’d much prefer some dense cover. That might be as complex as those same hinge-cuts you made for deer bedding areas, or as simple as a slash pile left over from your winter firewood cut. They will also nest in CRP areas and densely vegetated fields, so adjust your mowing schedule accordingly.
Far more important for productivity and poult recruitment is predator control, and you don’t need me to tell you how to do that. First, I’m no expert. Second, it would take another entire article, and then some. If you know what you’re doing, do it. If not, consider hiring a professional who does. Chances are it will also help with your fawn production, especially if you have coyotes.
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Summer
At the risk of sounding like a tourism brochure, summer is the time of plenty, when nature abounds with life. Absent of some environmental catastrophe, there’s plenty of food. But the easier it is for turkeys to find the right food, the better. Right now, rapidly growing poults need protein, in the form of insects and invertebrates. They’ll find some in the forest but an open field or food plot full of hoppers and crickets is like an “all you can eat salad bar” for them. Even the skid roads and two tracks the toms used for strut zones will have more insects for their growing offspring. Summer can also be the driest period. For the most part, turkeys will get the moisture they need from their food, as evidenced by their abundance in even the most arid regions. Add water, where it’s scarce, and it only makes finding food easier. And the turkeys will come simply to drink – that’s why lying in ambush near a tank is a popular tactic in Texas.
Fall
The key for fall is food, and we’ll lump late summer in here as well. As summer draws to a close, herbaceous plants are maturing. It can be somewhat stressful for deer as the greenery begins losing its nutritional value, but it’s a boom for birds because maturing forbs and grasses produce seeds. Meanwhile, vines and shrubs are also producing a smorgasbord of soft mast like grapes and berries. Many species grow wild, particularly in disturbed areas like cut-overs, and along those well exposed habitat edges mentioned above. But mast production and availability from wild plants can be variable and unreliable. If you’ll pardon the pun, you can hedge your habitat bets by planting groves or patches of soft mast producing shrubs and trees.
Speaking of trees, many of the same species you plant in your mast orchards for deer will also benefit turkeys, particularly after the soft mast crop passes. As that group of plants dies or goes dormant, the turkeys now turn their attention to what’s left: nuts and that remains the case through winter, when food and cover are most scarce, and when turkeys can sometimes make themselves quite unwelcome. In the west, they may tear into hay bales meant for livestock. In the northeast they’ll do the same to the plastic sheeting covering silage piles. The birds will make the most of whatever they have and somehow they find a way to withstand winter. They’ll scratch away the frozen leaves to find acorns overlooked or possibly even stowed away by small mammals. They’ll plow and paw through deep powder to eat frozen clover. If the snow freezes to a crust they’ll walk on top and feed on the windblown catkins and seeds of birch and ash.
If you provide enough food on your ground, you stand a better chance of keeping the turkeys home and healthy, and keeping your neighbors happy. It’s always preferable to provide natural food but if you’re going to provide supplemental feed this is the time to do it. Just be conscientious and careful how you go about it because like deer, turkeys can quickly become dependent on you for survival when fed supplementally.
Summary
All things considered, turkeys are much easier to manage than deer. Make sure they have a sufficient amount of the proper habitat variables, which is typically the case on most managed and many unmanaged properties. Keep the predators down, time your mowing and burning to avoid nesting periods and manage your harvest rates to avoid over-exploitation. The turkeys will take care of the rest themselves. They even do a pretty good job of limiting harvest by outwitting us more often than not.
Bob Humphrey is a wildlife biologist who participated in the first modern turkey hunt in Massachusetts in 1980. Later he assisted with turkey translocation efforts in Maine and in 2006 became the first per-son to officially record a wild turkey Grand Slam with a crossbow.
Hardworking outdoor apparel and gear, supported by partnership with American Hiking Society
MOUNT HOREB, Wis., April 6, 2022 /PRNewswire/ – Duluth Trading Company is relaunching its Alaskan Hardgear brand under a new brand name, AKHG™. The reintroduced AKHG™ will showcase an expansion into womenswear, extended sizes, all-weather performance apparel and gear alongside a commitment to conserving the outdoors with a two-year partnership with the American Hiking Society. Inspired by the Alaskan wilderness, AKHG™ is built to perform year-round in a variety of conditions – from the harshest to the most serene – and celebrates the rewarding moment arriving at camp and every bit of leg work it took to get there.
“There’s an undeniable growing desire across communities to explore the world around us and partake in the activities that come with being outdoors,” said Neala Shepherd, Senior Vice President, Customer Experience, Duluth Trading. “AKHG™ aims to provide clothes and gear for those who love the rolled-up-sleeves side of adventure and embrace the work that goes with exploring in the wild.”
With more size-inclusive offerings, weather-shielding fabrics, convertible features, and technical design elements that boost versatile, long-term use, each new AKHG™ style delivers superior quality, comfort, and function to let wearers Live Life Less Soft™. The brand continues to feature the ingenuity and innovative technology that Duluth Trading customers have come to know and love.
This spring, brand fans are encouraged to get outdoors and discover the latest from Duluth Trading and AKHG™:
The Crosshaul CollectionWith an exceptionally strong TOUGH COTTON™ finish, the Crosshaul Collection is three times more abrasion-resistant than regular cotton without sacrificing softness or breathability. New styles include the Women’s Plus AKHG™ Crosshaul Collection Cotton Short Sleeve Tee ($34.50) and the Men’s AKHG™ Crosshaul Cotton Hoodie ($64.50).
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About AKHG™AKHG™ is an outdoor apparel brand within the Duluth Trading Co. family that was created for those who roll up their sleeves for adventure and Live Life Less Soft™️. The brand’s collection of apparel, accessories and gear offer functional design inspired by life in the vast Alaskan wilderness. Built to withstand the harshest of climates and toughest terrain, yet versatile enough for varied outdoor recreational uses like hiking, fishing, camping, and snow sports, AKHG™️ is dedicated to honoring the work of play. All products built by Duluth Trading Co. are backed by the company’s “Superior Standard” and supported with outstanding customer service under the “No Bull Guarantee.” To learn more, visit www.duluthtrading.com or one of the 65 Duluth Trading store locations nationwide.
About American Hiking SocietyFounded in 1976 American Hiking Society is the only national nonprofit organization dedicated to empowering all to enjoy, share and preserve the hiking experience.
Unveiling the truth behind dry firing a Gamo air rifle, this intriguing headline delves into the possibility of safely practicing without ammunition. Join us...
How do You Process Sinew?To remove the sinews, you need a sharp knife or a good sharp flake of flint. Slice down the back of the leg from knee joint to just above the dew claws and peel the skin back. Lying just below the skin is a white membrane. This membrane encases the tendon which lies in a shallow groove down the back of the leg bone. 
You can usually slip your finger under the edge of the tendon and lift it up out of the bone a little. When you get the tendon up out of the groove, run your knife up and down to loosen the tendon even more. 
I usually run my knife down toward the hoof, and when I can’t go any farther, I turn the blade up and slice through the tendon freeing that end. You can then grab the tendon with you hand and peel it out down toward the knee joint. When you pull up as much of the tendon as you can get, cut that end off with your knife. 
There may be some membrane left sticking to the tendon (kind of a slimy case) and if you can remove this it will be helpful although it’s not vitally necessary.When you have a white floppy tendon in your hand, the hard part is done. 
Just set the tendon out in the sun or on the kitchen drain board if your spouse is out of town. In less than twenty-four hours the soft wet tendon will be hard, dry, and kind of a translucent yellow color. It looks a lot like plastic. 
Now take the dried tendon and use a smooth round rock or the round end of a ball peen hammer and start pounding. What ever you pound with, it needs to be rounded. Flat edges, like the flat of a hammer or axe, will cut the fibers in the sinew. 
As you pound, the sinew will start to turn white, and it will begin to separate into fluffy white fibers. You can now take you fingers and pull apart the fibers is small bundles about the thickness of a pencil lead or smaller. 
These little fiber bundles are what you’re looking for. You can use them to back a bow, make a bow string, sew leather together, tie on arrowheads etc.
To use the sinew to, for example, tie on an arrow head; all you have to do is pop a piece in your mouth and chew on it a little. Don’t be squeamish. It’s no different than chewing on a piece of deer jerky. The saliva in your mouth and the gentle chewing will soften the sinew in seconds. Don’t chew too long or you will wash all of the glue out of the sinew. 
That’s all there is to it. Amazing isn’t it!
