When looking into improving your accuracy or range with an AR-15, someone will mention your twist rate at some point. What are AR-15 twist rates, and how does it affect shooting accuracy? This AR-15 barrel twist rate guide will answer these questions and help you identify the best twist rate for your gun.

What Is Barrel Twist Rate?

Bullets fired from guns made after the 19th-century spin/twist during flight. The spin boosts accuracy by enhancing a round’s stability and aerodynamics.

Barrels make bullets spin with the help of grooves or rifling that line the inside of a barrel. Tighter or shorter grooves lead to a faster spin rate, while longer grooves cause a slower spin.

AR-15 rifling twist rate or barrel twist rate refers to the number of times a bullet spins per inch of barrel length. For example, a 1:8 twist rate means a slug will complete a spin once every 8 inches as it travels through a barrel.

If you have a 16-inch barrel with a 1:8 twist rate, the bullet will complete a spin twice before exiting the muzzle. An 18-inch barrel with a 1:6 twist rate will cause a bullet to spin three times before leaving the gun. The more twists a bullet can complete before leaving the barrel, the more stable the slug will be when it exits the muzzle.

Is Twist Rate a Safety Concern?

You can safely fire a bullet of any weight or size from a compatible barrel with any twist rate. While the rate of twist does not affect safety, it can affect bullet accuracy and range. If a barrel’s twist rate is slower than the recommended rate of spin for a specific bullet, you are less likely to hit targets accurately beyond 100 yards.

A barrel with a faster-than-recommended spin rate may have some or no effect on your accuracy if firing a heavy bullet. On the other hand, excessive spin on a light bullet (under 50 grains) may lead to overspin, which can make a bullet unstable enough to fly off trajectory downrange.

Here’s an AR twist rate chart from the NRA that sheds more light. The numbers at the top of the chart refer to bullet weight.

How Much Does Twist Rate Matter?

The lower ratio of the twist rate, the more spin a bullet will have. For instance, the same bullet fired from a 1:6 barrel will spin faster than one from a 1:7 barrel.

Heavier and longer bullets require a faster and tighter twist rate for adequate flight stability and accuracy. That’s because these bullets are less aerodynamic, and the spin improves the bullet’s ability to overcome wind resistance and travel straight to reach a target. If you select the optimal twist rate for your ammo, you can look forward to better shooting accuracy and range.

Common AR-15 Twist Rates

AR-15 twist rates typically vary between barrels, and the difference can be due to barrel length, rifling, and other factors. You can usually find a barrel’s twist rate listed under its features or specifications. Below are some of the most popular AR-15 barrel twist rates:

1:7

A 1:7 twist rate barrel is a favorite among target practice and combat shooters because it is effective for stabilizing long-range, modern bullets that weigh over 69 grains. The twist rate can also work with most rounds that weigh 55 to 70 grains. It is so effective for combat shooting that the U.S. military uses this twist rate in its M4, HK 416, and M16-A4 rifles.

You can get barrels between 6 and 24 inches with the 1:7 twist rate. The shorter barrels are suitable for close-range combat, while the longer barrels offer better velocity for long-range shooting.

1:8

Compared to other AR-15 twist rates, 1:8 is the most versatile. Barrels with this twist rate can work well with most ammo, offering sufficient stability to 70 to 90-grain bullets and preventing overspin in light rounds. While 1:8 twist rate barrels can fire most slugs with adequate accuracy, the best results occur when firing 60 to 80-grain bullets.

1:9

Barrels with a 1:9 twist offer a slower spin that works best with short, lightweight bullets (40 to 62-grain projectiles). You can use larger bullets with the barrel, but the rate of spin will not be fast enough to deliver optimal bullet stability and accuracy.

Rifle Barrel Twist Rate vs. Bullet Weight

Listening to the rifle barrel twist rate vs. bullet weight conversation, you will discover two sides – one that says bullet weight determines the best twist rate, and the other that believes bullet length determines twist rate. Both sides have a point.

Heavier bullets need more force to propel them in a straight line to hit far-off targets. Adding spin to such bullets makes them more aerodynamic and stable, enabling them to travel further in a straight line. If shooting ammo on the heavy end of the spectrum (over 70 grains), a 1:7 twist rate is ideal. However, if shooting lighter ammo (50 grains or less), a 1:9 twist rate will suffice.

On the other hand, you have experts who say that bullet length determines twist rate more than weight. The argument makes sense because, in most cases, the longer a bullet is, the heavier it becomes.

You also have the new lightweight copper and zinc bullets that are extra long to weigh the same as their lead counterparts. Simply put, many longer bullets have extra weight that requires a faster twist rate for better flight stabilization and accuracy.

What’s the Best AR-15 Twist Rate?

The best twist rate for an AR-15 will depend on various factors, such as your ammo type and how you intend to use your gun. As we’ve established, heavy and lightweight bullets require different rates of spin, but if you want a twist rate that works well with various bullet weights, we recommend 1:8.

Among all the AR-15 twist rates, 1:8 inches is the most versatile and multipurpose. Just check out various AR twist rate charts, and you’ll see that the 1:8 twist rate handles most AR-15 loads well.

While the 1:8 twist rate can handle most loads, it works best with 60 to 80-grain loads. If shooting light ammo, the 1:8 twist rate won’t cause the slug to spin out of control and veer dramatically after flying a few yards. The twist rate can also stabilize slugs that weigh up to 90 grains.

However, if you want the very best bullet stabilization and accuracy, always use the twist rate recommended for your specific ammo.

Get Premium AR-15 Barrels, Made in the U.S.A.

We’ve reached the end of our AR-15 barrel twist rate guide, and here are the things to remember – a slower twist rate (1:9) works best with lighter, shorter bullets, but it can also stabilize heavy bullets aimed at close-range targets. If you are a hunter or long-range shooter firing long and heavy slugs at targets over 100 yards away, you are better off switching to a faster twist rate (1:7 or 1:8).

How can you get barrels with your preferred AR-15 twist rates? Head to our online store today to shop industry-leading AR-15 barrels that match your unique shooting needs.

The SilencerCo ASR Muzzle Brake is a game-changer! Although there are some folks who are not much into muzzle brakes for personal reasons, they are still not a bad idea.

I’ve used quite a few SilencerCo ASR muzzle devices, and I can say for a fact that they are an awesome choice. To start with, they are solid and also great for reducing recoil and muzzle rise. They are built from high-quality materials that can withstand the heat and pressure of regular use. In addition, this muzzle brake is pretty easy it is to install. So if you are in doubt, this is the muzzle brake for you. To find out about other brakes and firearms, read up more on our website.

Table of Contents

Construction

I’m not sure exactly what kind of steel this muzzle brake is made of. But it’s strong.

We actually got an ASR Flash Hider hot enough to melt it. A customer blasted like 20 mags of full auto through a SilencerCo suppressor.

This one got way too hot. It still works, though.

The muzzle device got hot enough that the metal got soft and blistered. We straightened it out and let it cool down. And the muzzle device still works on that full-auto rifle today. It didn’t get brittle. And even the black nitride finish held up to some extent.

That makes me pretty certain that the SilencerCo ASR Muzzle Brake will hold up through all sorts of hard use, since most of us don’t have full-auto rifles.

Also, the machining on this muzzle brake is super clean. All the corners are beveled slightly to remove any harsh edges. Even the internal edges of the ports are beveled slightly.

Lastly, the threads on the ASR mount are incredibly clean. But I’ll talk about the ASR mount later on.

But, even without mentioning the ASR mount, the construction and attention to detail on this muzzle brake is obviously top notch.

Fit and Finish

There’s some good and some bad here.

First, the black nitride finish is incredible. As I mentioned earlier, the black nitride finish on the ASR Flash Hider that we melted held up somewhat. It wasn’t perfect. But I wouldn’t expect any finish to hold up through being melted without any damage.

But it’s evidence that the finish is incredibly strong.

And the finish resists carbon fouling pretty well. It seems that this muzzle brake collects less carbon than many other muzzle devices I’ve used.

It takes quite a bit of suppressed shooting—and even more unsuppressed shooting—to get any significant carbon buildup on the muzzle device. So the nitride finish certainly seems to do its job.

The next aspect of the fit and finish that I noticed is the threading for mounting the muzzle brake to your barrel. The threading is incredibly smooth and well finished. This muzzle device threaded on super smoothly and easily.

My only complaint about the fit is the shims.

I don’t know if shims are a requirement for muzzle brakes. But I prefer crush washers. I find it much easier to time a muzzle device with a crush washer. And I’ve never had a muzzle device that’s mounted with a crush washer come loose.

If it’s necessary to use shims for a muzzle brake, so be it. You can use a crush washer for a compensator, though. And that must be timed. So why not use crush washers for muzzle brakes?

But I digress. My problem with this muzzle brake is that I’ve occasionally found it difficult to time the muzzle brake with the included shims. Either the shims were too thick or too thin. And I ended up having to pretty much overtorque the muzzle brake to get it properly timed.

It’s not a huge deal. I just used a bigger wrench. And this hasn’t been an issue with every ASR muzzle brake I’ve installed. It might just be a slight mismatch between the threading on the brake and the threading on certain barrels.

But you don’t have these sorts of issues with a crush washer. That’s all I’m saying.

Either way, my one complaint about the fit is pretty minor. Timing muzzle devices with shims is always kind of a pain. So I might have this complaint about any other muzzle brake.

Putting my minor gripe aside, the fit and finish on this muzzle brake is outstanding. It installed (mostly) flawlessly. And it requires very little cleaning and maintenance. That’s about as much as you can ask for from a muzzle brake.

It might be tough to see. But that shim is SMASHED.

Suppressor Mount

Obviously, the primary feature of this muzzle brake is the ASR suppressor mount.

Here’s my one sentence opinion of the ASR mount: it’s one of the best—if not the best—suppressor mounting system on the market right now.

Just look at those clean, sharp threads.

It’s super simple and easy to use. It’s absolutely secure. And it’s nearly impossible to get a false positive with the locking mechanism.

Also, referring again to the ASR Flash Hider we melted, we melted an ASR muzzle device. And the ASR mount still works! We didn’t even have an issue removing the suppressor after getting it hot enough to melt the muzzle device.

I know that this is a sample size of one.

But we use a lot of SilencerCo suppressors on rental guns at the range. And the operation is almost always flawless, despite how badly we beat them up and how often we burn them down on full-auto guns.

They very rarely even get carbon locked. That’s not to say that it can’t happen. But it takes a lot of abusive shooting to lock up the ASR mount.

So, in short, I’m convinced that the ASR suppressor mount is an amazing mounting system.

Obviously, you can only use SilencerCo suppressors with the ASR system (there may be other manufacturers that produce ASR compatible suppressors. But I’m not aware of them).

However, SilencerCo makes awesome suppressors. Being restricted to using SilencerCo suppressors isn’t really a limitation. No matter what you want to do with your suppressor, SilencerCo makes one that will fit the bill.

All in all, the ASR mount gets two thumbs up from me.

Muzzle Brake Performance

My observations here are pretty straightforward.

In terms of recoil reduction, this is a good muzzle brake. However, there are dedicated muzzle brakes that perform better.

I will say this, though: the only muzzle brakes that offer better recoil reduction are dedicated muzzle brakes. The other muzzle brakes with suppressor mounts feel about the same, or even slightly worse.

For a muzzle brake with a suppressor mount, this muzzle brake is outstanding. But, if your primary concern is recoil reduction—and you don’t need the suppressor mount—you’d be better served with a dedicated muzzle brake.

Allow me to make this recommendation, though:

Use this muzzle brake, even if you don’t have a suppressor right now and you just want recoil reduction.

Why?

This muzzle brake offers plenty of recoil reduction for typical AR-15 rounds. It might not be the very best. But it’s good. You’ll get a very controllable rifle. And, it saves you a bit of money if you decide to get a suppressor down the road.

Additionally, using a muzzle brake with a suppressor mount is especially valuable if you need to pin and weld your muzzle device.

It’s good enough that I pretty much use some variation of the SilencerCo ASR Muzzle Brake on all my rifles, at this point. That way I can slap one of my SilencerCo suppressors on any rifle I have. And I have very little need—if any need—to swap muzzle devices in the future.

That’s my two cents on why using an ASR muzzle brake is a great idea.

But, in fairness, here’s a counterpoint:

You may want to forego this muzzle brake if the muzzle blast is a significant concern for you. The muzzle blast from this muzzle brake is relatively mild. But it’s still a muzzle brake.

If that’s your situation, allow me to recommend the SilencerCo ASR Flash Hider. That way you can still get a suppressor down the road, if you change your mind.

That’s all I have to say about that.

Braking Things Down

As you may have guessed, I think the ASR muzzle brake is an amazing muzzle device.

It performs well as a dedicated muzzle brake. And you can pop a suppressor on it, if you need to muzzle the muzzle blast.

The only thing to watch out for is timing it with the shims. You may need a pretty sturdy upper receiver vice block to get this muzzle brake properly timed. But that may just have been a product of the barrel I mounted this SilencerCo ASR Muzzle Brake on.

In the end, I think that you’d be hard pressed to find a more versatile muzzle brake that offered better recoil reduction than the ASR muzzle brake. It could easily be the only muzzle device you need.

The Thompson Center Encore Pro Rifle is a single-shot, break-action firearm. It’s also a switch-barrel rifle, meaning the barrel is interchangeable. Any Encore barrel will fit, which lets you customize the gun to fit any need. Whether you’re looking for a gun suitable for hunting, target shooting or self-defense, the Encore Pro is great for all types of shooters. Here’s why.

Accuracy

The precision rifling of the TC Encore Pro gives you accuracy you can count on. The 28” barrel gives you the best velocities you can expect from a given rifle cartridge. Like most rifles, the accuracy definitely varies based on what kind of ammo you use. I’ve noticed that I get the best, most consistent accuracy when I use powder instead of pellets. When I used between 185-200 grains, my 3 five-shot groups averaged 1.72 inches, and when I used 140 grains, it was around 1.2 inches. With most loads, you can expect excellent accuracy. The more often you clean the gun—and riflescope—the better shot groups you get. The trigger makes it a little harder to get even smaller groups, because it has a longer lock time. But, this tends to come with the territory with a hammer-fired gun.

Reliability

Thompson Center rifles are known to be great quality, and TC is a reputable company. The Encore is one of the best break-actions on the market, with no misfires to report, and extreme durability and robustness. However, there’s one downside: loading the gun with a dirty barrel. I had a couple bullets get stuck and had to clean the gun in order to get them out. For the most part, however, it’s a reliable gun you can count on no matter what you’re using it for. You can maintain optimum control in any conditions, wet or dry, with the overmolded pistol grip. It’s definitely a stand-out in comparison to similar models.

Handling

This is a well-built, well machined gun. The fit, the feel, and the balance are all fantastic, and the pistol grip stock fits perfectly in your hand. It’s one of the most comfortable grips I’ve ever experienced! One of the coolest features of the Encore Pro is the interchangeable barrels. It’s pretty simple to change them out:

Just remove two screws from the forearm, pull out the hinge pin, switch the barrels, replace the pin and screws, and… done! It’s quick and easy to transform it from a muzzleloader, to a slug gun, to a centerfire rifle.

It also comes standard with an ambidextrous Swing Hammer. A couple of downsides:

Cleaning the rifle is a bit challenging because in order to remove the breech, you need to first remove the fixed extractor. This involves removing two screws on the forearm, one on the extractor, and then reassembling the rifle after cleaning it. However, this is easier with an E-Z tip primer extractor. When you have one of these, it’s easier to clean, and you’re more willing to clean it often, which improves accuracy. There’s also no safety on the gun. But you can still move safely, even with a round in the chamber, by keeping the hammer forward.

Trigger

The Encore’s trigger is pretty good. It’s firm but crisp, which helps to offset the heavier pull—around 5 to 6 lbs. There’s a little inconsistency with the trigger pull, but other than that, it’s pretty impressive! No take-up, no sand, no creep, and no grit to speak of. The travel before the hammer snaps is minimal.

Magazine & Reloading

The TC Encore Pro is a break-action, single-shot rifle, and one of the best break-action muzzleloaders on the market. It features a Quick Load Accurizer with reduced rifling at the tip, which allows for easy loading. To open the action, you just pull back on the trigger guard lever and load your shell! One downside is that it comes with an extractor rather than an ejector, so you have to manually remove the cartridges or cases.

Length & Weight

The standard barrel of the Encore is advertised at 28,” but since the barrel is interchangeable, this all depends on what you choose. Overall, it measures around 42.” It’s relatively lightweight, and depending on the accessories you use, weighs anywhere from 7.5 to 8.25 lbs.

Recoil Management

Recoil management is definitely something TC got right with the Encore. It comes with a FlexTech recoil reducing stock, which boasts four layers of Limbsaver navcom material. The stock also comes with pliable inserts in the butt and comb, which makes the gun shoot softer. The buttpad is soft enough to absorb most of the recoil from firing. This firearm is great because it can handle tough-recoiling loads without making the shooter absorb all the recoil.

Price

The MSRP for the Encore Pro is around $790. For an extremely customizable, smooth shooting rifle, it’s not a bad price! It’s tried and true, and the customizability it offers at this price point is steller. It’s within most people’s budget, and perfect for families that need one gun for any situation, or for the “one-gun-man.”

My Verdict?

The TC Encore Pro is a great hunting rifle, and is perfect for anyone looking for an inexpensive gun for hunting, target shooting, and self-defense all rolled into one. Here are some of the best features:

• Interchangeable barrels

• Squishy buttpad to absorb even the most intense recoil

• Weather Shield coating makes it extremely resistant to corrosion

• Ability to shoot different calibers based on the game and terrain

So if you’re looking for the best in versatile hunting guns, look no further than the Thompson Center Encore Pro.

Richard Douglas is a firearms expert and educator. His work has appeared in large publications like The Armory Life, Daily Caller, American Shooting Journal, and more. In his free time, he reviews optics on his Scopes Field blog.

History The pigs that Spanish explorers first brought to the Americas were likely of the Iberian breed, a small, lean, tusked pig with a straight back, long narrow snout and small bristles. These first pigs adapted well in their new environment and many found their way to freedom, creating a population of feral pigs in the Americas.

Populations of wild boar were later introduced to North America for hunting in the 1890s, and again in several phases during the first half of the 20th century. Though they began on hunting preserves, some wild boar escaped and mated with feral descendants of domesticated pigs. So the wild boar of today are usually a hybrid breed, with characteristics of both Eurasian boars and feral pigs. The USDA requires that the meat from these animals be labeled as “feral swine,” because the breed is indistinct.

Free-Range Wild Boar Wild boar live a truly free-range lifestyle in the United States today. The trouble with wild boar is that they are now present in 39 states and number in the millions. They eat agricultural crops, root in gardens and destroy native grasses. Wild boar will prey upon livestock like lambs, kids, calves and other young animals. Farmers and ranchers are less than pleased with the presence of wild boar, so hunting is encouraged in many states where the boar have become a nuisance.

Texas is a state that is overrun with wild boar. There is a program to cut their numbers, which includes hunting and trapping. The humane trapping option involves large cages that trap but do not harm the wild boar. They are then taken to a USDA inspected slaughter house, where they are processed as domesticated hogs would be. D’Artagnan partners with experienced trappers in Texas to provide the best wild boar meat on the hoof.

Eating Wild Boar Wild boar meat is similar to pork, but there are a few differences worth noting. As a game meat, wild boar meat is leaner and tends to be darker red than ordinary pork. Wild boar meat has an intense, sweet and nutty flavor, due in part to its wild diet of grasses and nuts and forage.

Cook wild boar at lower temperatures than other meats. Keep it low and cook it slow. Do avoid overcooking, as the lean meat will dry out quickly. If your wild boar meat is frozen, do not defrost in a microwave, since this tends to dry and toughen meat. Marinating wild boar meat overnight can do wonders, as the marinade will tenderize as it imparts flavor. But cuts such as the tenderloin do not need marinating or slow cooking. You can simply pan sear wild boar tenderloin at high heat until it reaches an internal temperature of 140-145 degrees Fahrenheit, as this recipe demonstrates. Use lean wild boar chuck meat in stews and ragouts to change up your game. Go hog wild with boar meat at your next cook out, or roast a wild boar shoulder for a family feast.

ZipLine Medical says anyone can use its ZipStitch device for wound closure, and it doesn’t need to be prescribed by a doctor

ZipStitch says its device is 12-times stronger than regular stitches and results in reduced scarring (Credit: YouTube/ZipStitch)

There’s an emphasis in many industries on easy-to-use, cheap alternatives to established products — and healthcare is certainly one of them. Jamie Bell takes a look at ZipStitch — a hospital-grade wound closure device that anyone can use to treat small cuts in seconds.

Whether it’s at home chopping vegetables, playing sports with friends, or cycling to work, minor cuts and flesh wounds can happen just about anywhere in day-to-day life.

Bigger, deeper wounds will often require a trip to the emergency room, and ultimately stitches — a painful, invasive procedure.

In the US, getting stitches is also expensive for anyone without health insurance. Cost range from $200 to as much as $3,000 in some cases.

However, any medium-sized or smaller cut is usually treated outside the healthcare setting using an adhesive bandage or plaster.

While these dressings can stop a small amount of bleeding — and protect against infection — they do little to close the wound and speed up the healing process.

US tissue-repair device company ZipLine Medical has developed a tool called ZipStitch, which combines the convenience of a plaster with many of the benefits provided by having a cut stitched by a doctor.

ZipStitch: The do-it-yourself wound closure device

ZipStitch is a small, adhesive device that is designed to be placed over cuts less than 4mm in width.

Once it is stuck down, the user simply pulls each of the four miniature straps on the device, tightening them and closing the break in the skin.

Because it is so small and light, ZipLine Medical believes its product is ideal for everyday first-aid kits, and can be useful for someone to have with them during a range of outdoor activities where minor injuries can often occur, including cycling, hiking or camping.

The company warns, however, that the wound must be cleaned properly and allowed to dry before application.

Not only does this reduce the risk of infection, but it ensures the device will stick to the skin and remain in place.

It is sold online for $29.99 as part of a pack including gauze pads to stop bleeding, alcohol wipes to clean wounds, and bandage to cover and protect the cut once ZipStitch has been applied.

The device is supposedly 12-times stronger than regular stitches and results in reduced scarring.

Although it can only be used to close wounds up to 1.5 inches in length. ZipLine Medical recommends seeking stitches in hospital to close larger cuts.

Unlike conventional sutures, ZipStitch is also non-invasive, which can reduce the chances of bacteria causing infection.

The company says it provides better protection than butterfly bandages and other adhesive plasters, repairing cuts faster and decreasing the likelihood of scarring.

Hospital-grade Zip technology

The device uses ZipLine Medical’s own Zip technology, which has been used by more than 500,000 people in the past five years, and by hospitals in 30 countries.

The California-based company says it delivers faster and less painful wound closure than established methods such as stitches or staples — with 95% of its patients saying they prefer Zip technology to these treatments.

Having proven to be safe and effective in several clinical trials, it gained FDA approval in 2017.

As well as treating minor, everyday injuries, Zip technology has been used to close wounds left by operations including knee and shoulder replacements — which, the company says, has resulted in reduced scarring compared with conventional stitches.

When used to close wounds following these procedures, a longer strip of the ZipStitch device is used to precisely align the edges of the incision.

The Zip structure also functions as a cage to offer extra protection from anything that might cause pain or reopen the cut.

Removing the ZipStitch can be done at home by the patient in some cases, and ZipLine Medical says this is as simple as pulling off a Band-Aid.

It is also less painful than removing stitches or staples, and leaves no holes in the skin.

As well as benefits for patients, the company claims the speed at which ZipStitch works can decrease healthcare costs and improve efficiency of patient care by reducing the number of follow-up appointments.

How ZipStitch compares to butterfly bandages and other wound closure devices

The main alternative to ZipStitch is the butterfly bandage — an adhesive strip designed to close small wounds by pulling the skin together.

These outperform ordinary plasters and are also small and light.

However, butterfly bandages cover a much smaller area than the ZipStitch device, meaning only cuts that are very short in length can be closed effectively.

There are several other methods for closing wounds without traditional stitches — German healthcare company McKesson uses a series of adhesive strips to do this.

Clozex Medical has developed a wound closure device that comes in several different lengths to treat a variety of cut sizes, and to cope with curvatures and raised areas on the skin.

Skin glue or “liquid stitches” can also be used to non-invasively hold the edges of a cut together. It can also be applied in addition to other wound closure methods like traditional stitches or adhesive bandages.

These other products are not do-it-yourself solutions, and require a healthcare professional to administer them.

When I think of skinning a bear, I’m reminded of one of my favorite hunts with my son in Montana. When he was only 12 years old, he took down a bear with his rifle using the “spot and stalk” method.

Getting within range of those bears and taking the shot is a big challenge. I’m proud of my son for accomplishing that Herculean task, and even prouder of how we skinned that bear together after it was taken down.

Skinning a bear is no easy feat. It takes precision, concentration, and strategy. Don’t worry – we’ve been there and can explain how to do it, step by step.

What to Know Before Skinning a Bear

Skinning a bear is very different from dressing other game. A bear’s anatomy poses certain challenges that all hunters should be aware of. For the purposes of this blog, we’ll focus on how to skin a black bear; however, the following tips also apply to brown bears.

If you’re planning to bring your bear to a taxidermist (or even if you aren’t), it’s important to keep the bear in the best possible condition. The paws are a bear’s most distinguishing feature and must be left on the hide. If you’re a beginner, do not try to skin out the paws yourself — your taxidermist will thank you.

Speaking of the hide, it also needs to be preserved as well as possible. Avoid poking holes in it and ensure it’s clean before delivering it to the taxidermist. This will increase the chances of successful tanning.

How to Prepare to Skin a Bear

Be aware of what you’ll need to deliver to the taxidermist. As mentioned, don’t try to skin out the paws on your own; deliver them attached to the hide.

Next, you must know how to field dress a bear. Game bags are crucial for keeping the meat clean and organized, so be sure to have them at the ready. Clear your surrounding area and drag the bear to a clean spot, keeping dirt off the hide.

Place the bear on pine needles, leaves, or grass to maintain cleanliness. Open garbage bags also help preserve the meat. If it’s hot, move the bear to a shaded area to rapidly cool the hide and carcass.

Along with game and garbage bags, a reliable fixed-blade knife is a must-have. Additionally, carrying some paracord can be useful, especially if you’re on your own and need to secure a leg while you’re skinning a bear.

You won’t need a saw for this job. Your fixed-blade knife can handle everything you need.

How to Skin a Black Bear: Step by Step

Let’s get to the meat of this blog post (pun intended). Here’s how to skin a bear:

1. Lay the bear on its back with its legs spread out (it should resemble a starfish).
2. Once the bear is situated, make a center cut from the anus straight through the bear’s belly to the base of the neck. Then, on the inside portion of the front legs, make a cut from the joint (of the wrist) near the foot up to the armpit area, angling up and forward into the center of the sternum.
3. On the inside of its back legs, cut from the foot joint to the centerline cut you made in step 2.
4. Next, you’ll begin to skin out the front and back quarters. Start on one side of the bear, then move to the other and put it in a game bag.
5. While skinning the legs, cut the joint just above the foot to keep the paw attached to the hide. Then remove that skin from that leg with the paw still attached. Remember, it’s important to keep the paws attached when skinning a bear for a rug or other taxidermy.
6. From that point, skin the hide away from the rest of the carcass, being careful to keep dirt off the hide.
7. Finally, cut through the neck at the base of the skull and remove the bear head from the carcass, but keep it attached to hide.

Common Mistakes to Avoid When Skinning a Bear

Resist the temptation to skin the head and paws separately. I cannot emphasize enough that they must stay attached to the hide.

Also, refrain from folding the meat and hide before they completely cool. Hair is a great insulator; it’ll spoil the meat on the inside, and cause hair to fall out of the hide.

Don’t leave too much fat on the hide while skinning a bear. Removing as much fat as possible reduces packing weight. Be careful while you do this — avoid cuts in the hide as well as you can.

Most importantly, only salt the hide after removing all the flesh, as it will make proper mounting nearly impossible.

The post-skinning process is pretty simple: Cool the animal down and get it to your taxidermist as soon as possible. Freezing or storing it in a cooler or on ice in a garbage bag provides optimal conditions for the taxidermist.

How to Skin a Bear: Final Thoughts

Like anything, learning how to skin a bear takes repetition and time. I’ve definitely improved my process since I became a master bladesmith years ago.

Even if you’ve been skinning bears for years, there’s always room to improve, so we encourage you to save this post for future reference. Following these steps and avoiding common mistakes will make a big difference in your skinning practice.

by Josh Smith, Master Bladesmith and Founder of Montana Knife Company

This elk sausage recipe is a great way to enjoy a healthy, protein-packed and delicious meal. Whether you are an experienced or new hunter – or if you bought elk at the store: you’ve come to the right place to find a recipe for elk breakfast sausage patties!

Making elk sausages is easy with this recipe because they are in patty form. This means you don’t have to buy hog casings or have fancy sausage stuffing equipment!

Elk are one of the largest types of deer, making it a wild game meat that is similar to venison.

This meat is growing in popularity because it is nutritious and lean. The first time I tried elk I bought it as ground meat and cooked it for tacos; I loved how it wasn’t as greasy as ground beef and it had such a mild, clean and almost a sweet taste!

You can substitute elk with ground venison or even ground beef in this recipe, but the cooking process will be a bit different because of the amount of fat. We suggest carefully monitoring the sausage patties on the stove with whichever meat you decide to cook.

Health Benefits of Elk Meat:

Compared to regular beef, elk has about half the fat and more protein. It is high in B vitamins, zinc and healthy types of fat. Most farm raised elk are able to free range and have a varied diet including many different types of plant material. Make sure to look up the company and ensure they are a good farm if you are purchasing meat from the store, confirming you are buying a high-quality product.

While we don’t think many types of animal fats are bad for you (if you are eating grass-fed, grass-finished red meat and organic, pasture-raised poultry), we do think it is easy to have too much fat when eating a diet that includes animal products. For example, we include butter and cream in our diet, so we often get plenty of fat from dairy products. Having a lean meat option is a nice way to help balance the appropriate amounts of fats, carbohydrates and proteins in a meal.

Elk hunted from the wild:

As we are not hunting professionals, we don’t have instructions for how to properly skin or butcher wild game. There are many resources for this online! This recipe calls for ground meat which means you will need a good meat grinder or hand grinder if you haven’t bought it pre-ground. Once you have your ground meat, you can follow this easy recipe!

Storage:

• You can freeze the prepared raw meat mixture in a non- BPA freezer bag or reusable silicone bag for up to 4 months. Make sure to seal the meat air tight to prevent freezer burn. Only keep the raw meat mixture in the refrigerator for 1-2 days in an airtight container or it will begin to spoil.

• You can refrigerate the cooked sausage patties for up to 3 days by allowing them to cool to room temperature and sealing them in an airtight container or in a dish covered tightly with plastic wrap.

• You can freeze cooked sausage patties by allowing them to cool to room temperature and sealing in a non-BPA freezer bag or reusable silicone bag for up to 4 months (again, sealing airtight to prevent freezer burn.)

Tips for Best results when cooking elk sausage:

• Combine the dry spices in a small or medium bowl before adding the seasoning mixture to however many pounds of meat you are preparing. This will ensure your sausage seasonings will be uniform throughout your meat.

• Fresh herbs can be used in place of dry by multiplying the quantity by 3. For example, instead of adding 1 teaspoon of dry thyme you can add 1 tablespoon of fresh thyme. We made this recipe in the winter so we only had dry herbs – but can’t wait to try this recipe with herbs from the garden in spring and summer!

• Preheat the stove to medium heat and add butter until it begins to bubble before adding the sausage patties. This will allow better browning and less sticking.
• You will want to turn the heat up to medium-high for proper browning but monitor the heat to ensure the sausages are not burning .

• Carefully monitor the sausages when cooking: you don’t want to overcook these because the low amount of fat can cause the sausage to be quite dry if overly well-done.
• We do not recommend using most “non-stick” pans as most have a coating made with toxic chemicals that can leach into your food. We suggest sticking with stainless steal or cast iron for cooking.

What to eat with Elk Breakfast sausage patties:

Enjoy these patties with the same sides you would normally eat with breakfast sausage. Sourdough flatbread, sourdough crepes or pancakes, crispy hash browns, sourdough bread toast with apple butter…

One of our favorite healthy side dishes for this recipe is sauteed apples in butter and maple syrup, topped with sour cream and a little cinnamon and nutmeg. My mouth is watering just thinking about it!

*This is not medical advice

*None of these statements have been evaluated by the FDA

Painting your goose decoys can be done with a few supplies and a little learning.

Let me make this SUPER easy for you to do by following my step-by-step directions on how to paint goose decoys.

Many people have used these instructions to make decoys that looked like they should have been thrown away to look brand new and ready to hunt over once again.

Supplies Needed

• Earth brown flat non-reflective spray paint
• Khaki flat non-reflective spray paint
• Black flat non-reflective spray paint
• Black Flat oil based paint
• White Flat oil based paint
• Small paint brush
• Painters tape/masking tape
• Box cutter/knife
• Disposable/plastic gloves (optional)

Step 1: Clean and dry the decoys.

Step 2: Apply painter’s tape/masking tape covering the white tail feather area.

Step 3-11: Instantly download/view my complete FREE step-by-step instructions by clicking the button below.

Setting Up Your Painting Area

When it comes to prepping your workstation for your decoys, you should choose a space in the home that is free of traffic. Paint fumes can also be hazardous, so ensure the room or area has enough ventilation.

This will ensure that you are not disturbed throughout the process. You can set up your station on a big enough table and place some newspaper or material down so that you don’t stain your table.

Ensure that the tape is big enough to place your decoys, paint cans, brushes, and any other tools you are using for painting and that you have all of your tools on hand before beginning the process.

Also, ensure that the area is free of any dust and debris that could be get stuck to the paint and affect the finish on the painted decoys.

Using Masking Tape To Protect Areas

Masking tape is going to come in extremely handy in this process. The masking tape will be used to cover the right side feather area, the whitetail feather area as well as the white ring around the decoy neck.

Start by applying a 1/4 inch masking tape covering these three areas after you have cleaned and dried the decoys, but before you begin painting.

What Type Of Colors Should You Pick?

When it comes to painting a goose decoy, you should note that a goose can be any color from completely gray to completely white.

Male geese are also born with bright orange beaks, and the females have a brown beaks. As both of the sexes mature, the males will grow white feathers and keep the orange beak, and the females will grow gray feathers, and the beak will also change to orange.

So when it comes to choosing the colors for your decoys, bear this information in mind.

What Type Of Pattern Should You Go For?

When it comes to painting your goose decoys, you want them to look as realistic as possible. So this is the time that you need to make reference to the photo that you are referencing to paint decoys.

You want to add details to make them look realistic as well, and if the chest feathers are a different color than the body, then you need to use that specific color of paint across the chest at this time.

Ultimately, try to stick to the details of real geese and ensure that they look natural and realistic as much as you can. Although you may want to add some of your own creativity, if it means taking away from the realism of your decoy, then don’t do it.

Is There A Color Difference In Geese Based On Gender?

In most breeds, both the male and female geese look alike. So it’s quite difficult to tell them apart. In most cases, though, the goose is darker than the gander.

This is even evident when they are still quite small, and as they grow, most geese will resemble the Toulouse color while the gander will resemble the Emden.

How To Apply The Paint

When it comes down to deciding whether to spray paint your decoy or paint it with a brush, it all boils down to personal preference.

While some people may find it easier to spray-paint their decoys, others believe that they get more accuracy out of a paintbrush.

The good news is that there is no rule that says that you need to use either one or the other, and you can choose to use both.

When it comes to coloring larger areas of the goose, a spray can do the trick. However, when it comes to adding detail and painting areas such as the tail, feathers, or beak, using a specific-size paintbrush will give you more detail and accuracy.

Spray

Spray cans can be used for larger areas.

Brush

A paintbrush will help you achieve more detail.

How Long Should The Paint Dry?

If you are applying a primer, you should allow it to dry for approximately 20 minutes before adding paint. When painting, allow the paint 10 to 20 minutes of drying time is required before you apply another coat.

If you are using spray paint, then it’s going to dry quicker, and you’ll need approximately 10 minutes in order for it to dry completely.

When it comes to painting the beak, it is recommended that you use acrylic paint and allow it to dry for 10 minutes before applying any additional coats.

How Long Before You Can Deploy The Decoy To The Field?

Depending on whether you are using spray paint or paintbrushes to finish off your decoys, it can take anywhere between 1 to 3 hours before you use it.

So once you’ve completed painting the decoy, set it on a flat surface so it can dry consistently.

You should check on it 2 to 3 hours later, and if the paint is completely dry, then you are ready to set your decoy out in the woods and use it as you please.

Will Geese Be Able To Tell The Difference Based On Smell?

When it comes to painting your goose decoys, you should do it well in advance. This will give the paint enough time to dry thoroughly and also get the smell of paint fumes off the decoys.

However, as long as the decoys look realistic, that is no reason why geese will not commit.

Should You Apply Coatings To Make Your Paint Last Longer?

Yes, there is no rule that says that you cannot use extra coats of paint on your decoys to ensure that the paint lasts longer. However, it is recommended that you only purchase a satin finish, latex paint.

This is because satin-finish does not contain any type of gloss and is the right sheen for painting decoys.

Ultimately, if you invest in any type of paint or say a high gloss paint, it’s going to make your decoys look shiny, and unless you’ve seen a shiny goose, this is sure to make other geese flare instead of committing.

So if you want to avoid this from happening, ensure that the paint you use on your decoys looks as natural to the real thing as possible.

You Might Also Read: Duck Hunting Decoy Tips

How to Choose the Best Ham Radio Base Station – Buyers Guide

Getting a good ham radio base station goes beyond searching for the top ones on the market. While that’s a great place to start, there are still other important factors to consider.From power output and receiver sensitivity to antenna options and digital enhancements, here’s what you should look out for when purchasing the best ham radio base station.

1. Power Output and Receiver Sensitivity

Make sure your ham radio base station has adequate power output and receiver sensitivity to ensure that you get good reception no matter the conditions. The power output should be between 5 -100 watts, and receiver sensitivity should range from 0.2-1 microvolt.

2. Antenna Options

It’s important to consider the type of antenna your ham radio base station is compatible with as antenna options will determine how well your radio performs. Look for the one with a wide frequency range and good gain value to ensure that you get the best performance from your radio.

3. Digital Enhancements

The latest ham radio base stations come with digital enhancements such as automatic notch filters, dual receivers, and noise blanking capabilities to improve user experience. Look for radio with these features for better performance.

4. Price

Compare the prices of different ham radio base stations to ensure that you get the one that fits your budget without compromising on features, performance, or build quality. Getting the best ham radio base station does not mean that you have to pay the most money and get the most expensive one.You are sure to find a great choice within options ranging from low-cost entry-level radios, that cost little money, to more expensive advanced models, so take your time to decide which one suits your needs best rather than have the price factor drive it.

5. Modes and frequency coverage

This is an important feature, as it determines if the radio meets your requirements in terms of band management. Most modern-day radios have multiple capabilities that allow you to transmit on different frequencies and modes.

6. Band and frequency

Ham radio base stations come in a range of frequencies. A single-band radio means it features one option, mostly the two-meter band on 144-148MHz. Double ones are the most common in the market, and they feature both the 2-meter band and 70 cm band. Others feature three or four frequencies.

7. Ease of operation

When buying your first ham radio base station, you want one that is user-friendly and has a short learning curve to navigate and learn how to use it.Evaluate how complex the controls are. Is it something you can learn through a user manual, or do you need some practice before acquiring your own? As a beginner, you can go for a basic radio and learn your way around it before investing in a complex option.

8. Sound clarity

Ensure you get a ham radio base station that has a clear signal and noise cancellation ability. When using a ham radio either receiving or transmitting, you don’t want distortion or signal interference as it could affect how you pass or receive information.

Some radios have an automatic inbuilt antenna that can shift across frequencies, while some need a manual one fixed within proximity. This can potentially affect its sound clarity if you are not able to fix it well, so do your research before purchasing.

9. Software

Preferably, get a radio that comes with the program software cable in the beginning. Some of the best ham radio base stations come with free software, while for others, you have to get it from a third party at a cost.

Check whether your preferred option software must be plugged into a computer to function or manually programmed, which is more applicable to experienced users.

Evaluate whether you need LAN access or not for your chosen radio software to run. For instance, some radios require a laptop to run the software through a LAN connection.

10. Accessories

Most ham radio base stations come in packages that include accessories such as headsets, microphones, and power supplies. Consider additional accessories you may need before making your purchase so that you can be sure all your requirements are met from the start.