“Exploring Felon Firearm Rights: Air Rifle Ownership in Michigan”

Can a felon own an air rifle in michigan?

In Michigan, the ownership of firearms by felons is heavily regulated. While state law allows for the possession of certain types of firearms by individuals with felony convictions, it remains unclear whether this extends to air rifles. Although an air rifle may not be classified as a firearm under federal law, Michigan statutes do not specifically address whether felons can possess or own such weapons. Therefore, it is essential for individuals with felony convictions in Michigan to seek legal advice or clarification from local authorities regarding the ownership and possession of air rifles.

One potential avenue for felons to legally own an air rifle in Michigan is through obtaining a restoration of their firearm rights. This process involves applying to the court and demonstrating that they have been rehabilitated and are no longer a risk to society. If successful, felons may regain their firearm rights and potentially be allowed to possess an air rifle. However, it is important to note that this process can be complex and time-consuming, requiring the assistance of an attorney familiar with firearm laws in Michigan.

In Michigan, felons are prohibited from owning firearms, including air rifles. State law treats air rifles as firearms, subject to the same restrictions. Therefore, a felon cannot legally own an air rifle in Michigan.

Hungry deer can wreak havoc on any garden. They can stomp, chew, poop, and destroy all those precious herbs you worked so hard to prepare. If you live near a forest or large stretches of land, you either have to invest in quality fencing or plant herbs that deer will avoid. It seems like deer will eat just about anything, but there are some plants that they don’t mess with.

Generally, deer avoid most herbs that have a strong flavor, aromatic foliage, silvery-gray color, and/or spiky or poorly textured leaves. This includes rosemary, lavender, thyme, sage, oregano, and tarragon. The essential oils of herbs throw off the olfactory system of the deer and send them looking for other food sources.

However, contrary to popular belief, not all herbs are deer resistant. Deer will sometimes munch on basil and parsley if they don’t have any other green leaves available. Let’s take a deeper look at some of the top herbs that deer will avoid!

Lavender

Thanks to its powerful aroma, lavender is a naturally deer-resistant plant. Even when it isn’t flowering, the foliage of lavender has a pungent smell that deer do not like.

Deer don’t usually eat lavender due to a terpene called linalool that makes the lavender taste too strong for their liking. This essential oil is also found in many of the Mediterranean herbs below, including oregano and thyme.

Plant lavender along the margins of your vegetable garden as a companion plant. The camphorous smell of the leaves and the floral aroma of the blooms can help deter deer (and other pests) from eating your crops while simultaneously attracting beneficial insects.

Rosemary

Another drought-tolerant Mediterranean favorite, rosemary is repulsive to deer. The potent aroma of rosemary can help mask the smell of other plants they may be seeking, like your freshly-sown lettuce or fruiting tomatoes. Deer also dislike rubbing against the rosemary plant because of the essential oils that can rub off on their fur.

Like lavender, you can plant rosemary around the perimeter of your garden as a “deer shield.” It also works great when placed near the entry gates to your property or anywhere you suspect deer are regularly passing through.

Sage

Sage plants are among the most popular deer-resistant ornamentals because they offer a diversity of floral colors along the margin of a woodland. This popular herb is actually part of the Salvia genus, which includes hundreds of varieties.

From white sage to Russian sage to blue sage, all of these shrubs produce beautiful booms and aromatic leaves that repel deer. As a bonus, the leaves have a wooly or fuzzy leaf texture that hungry deer do not want in their mouths.

Oregano

Oregano contains two strong essential oils called carvacrol and thymol. When the fragrance of this herb hits a deer’s nose, it often sends them off in the other direction. Like rosemary, deer really hate rubbing up against oregano or stepping on it.

Thanks to its insect-repellent properties, oregano also makes an excellent vegetable companion plant. It doesn’t mind partial shade and can be interspersed in a drought-tolerant garden alongside the Mediterranean herbs described above.

Thyme

Thyme is an extremely low-maintenance herb that thrives in poor soils without much fertility or water. As an herbaceous perennial deer barrier, thyme’s fragrant leaves are not appetizing to deer. When blooming, the strong smell of the flowers can also repel deer.

Use creeping thyme as a ground cover around your garden beds and it may prevent deer from walking in.

Lemon Balm

Known for its delicious tea-making capacity, lemon balm is not quite so tasty to deer. The animals have an aversion to the fragrant leaves and flowers of this herb.

Lemon balm is a perfect low-growing border plant to keep deer out of your garden. However, it can be slightly invasive in some regions, so plant wisely.

Mint

You will notice that all of the above herbs belong to the mint family (Lamiaceae). Mint and its relatives are the backbone of a deer-resistant herb garden.

Peppermint, spearmint, pennyroyal, ginger mint, and any other variety of mint can easily be added to the blend to add olfactory shock value to your local deer noses.

Grow mint in great abundance around the borders of your garden, but avoid planting it in your garden beds. Mint is a natural spreader that can out-compete your vegetables. However, it makes great ground cover in moist, partially shaded soils along a forest or grassland border.

Chives

The evergreen, herbal, and floral fragrances of mint-family herbs aren’t the only smells that deter deer. Chives are a perennial onion-family (Amaryllidaceae or “alliums”) herb that turns away deer as well as aphids and Japanese beetles.

Because of the strong taste and onion-y smell of chives, you can reliably plant them out in the open. They make a delicious garnish for meals and a low-maintenance, cold-tolerant ornamental.

Be sure to plant perennial chives, not annual green onions. Both are deer-resistant, but the perennial chives will grow as a clump that comes back year after year.

Dill

Any gardener who loves pickles needs to have a self-seeding dill patch. This resilient herb is smelly and strong tasting, which makes it yet another deer-deterrent.

Sometimes known as dill weed, both blue-green foliage and yellow umbel flowers of dill have a distinctive fragrance. The plant can naturally spread into small patches and remains biennial in zones 2-8.

You can grow dill in your annual garden beds or alongside perennial herbs. While you repel deer, you also get yummy pickle flavoring!

Horseradish

Deer avoid horseradish at all costs. The spicy aroma of this perennial Brassica keeps most pests away. The large bushes look like weedy dock plants but smell strongly of mustards. Deer avoid the foliage as well as the spicy roots.

Tarragon

Whether it’s Mexican or French tarragon, this herb has a distinctive anise smell that deer strongly dislike. They tend to avoid eating or stepping on the plant.

These 18-36” bushes can be grown as perennials in zones 4 and warmer. The licorice flavor is surprisingly delicious as a garnish on chicken, fish, or vegetables. Thankfully, deer don’t find it nearly as appetizing as we do.

If you have pets, keep in mind that tarragon oils can be toxic to dogs, cats, and horses. Most animals avoid the plant anyways.

LAST UPDATED: May 1st, 2015

So you just shot a buck on the fifth day of a seven day solo hunt in the backcountry, and you’re 6.5 miles from your truck. Now what? Well, unless you can find some horses running around…you’re probably going to need to get your buck broken down and start to burn some boot leather packing it out on your back. The old motto “releasing the arrow is the easy part, the real work begins after you get an animal down” couldn’t be more true. An ideal situation would be to have a friend help you take care of the meat and pack an animal out. However, sometimes you have to get creative and dig deep when doing it solo.

Before you get in this situation, you should plan ahead and before trying to tackle this task. Believe me…nothing is worse than experimenting on quartering out and/or de-boning an animal in below freezing weather conditions without the proper gear to get the job done. You want to get that animal properly broken down while taking the required steps to get all of the meat removed….all while doing it efficiently. Getting your meat ready to pack out in a timely manner, while minimizing contact with debris on the ground, will help ensure that you have tasty steaks for the dinner table.

There are many advantages to packing out your bow kill. However, there are just as many pitfalls to the process if you don’t know what you’re doing.

Packing out your own animal is all about knowing your physical limitations. Don’t try to bite off too much if you are not adequately prepared to pack a large animal like a bull elk out of the mountains solo during the early part of September. We all owe it to ourselves to get the meat out as quickly as possible. When in doubt, try to contact a few friends to help you pack meat, even if it means hiking to get cell service or heading back to your truck and driving to town.

Equipment NeededGear choices for packing out an animal are sort of like gear choices for setting up a new bow. There are a lot of options for each type of person. Personally, I have found the following items make the job easier on myself and have proven to work great throughout my bowhunting career. When it comes to knives, I prefer to carry the lightest knife for preparing my trophy in the field since I will be carrying this knife each day. You do not want to carry a heavy saw or giant knife in your pack if you don’t need to; just like all of your backpacking gear, you want it to be as light as possible yet still get the job done. The less weight you have in your pack, the harder you can hunt…the harder you hunt…the more successful you can be. (shop for backpacks)

The right game bag can make hauling your meat easier, as well as keep it cool, while also keeping your backpack clean of blood and odor.

I’ll be the first to admit…I don’t like carrying the extra weight of game bags in my backpack each day I hunt. But, I am hunting and therefore expecting to kill something, and even though I love the experience of the hunt, I am not just taking my bow out for a walk. It is for this reason that I pack game bags each day I am hunting, no matter if it’s a daytrip for antelope, a weeklong hunt for elk where I am moving camp each night, or a weekend mule deer hunt where I am headed back to the same tent location each night. Game bags prevent your hard earned meat from getting contaminated from a variety of sources such as dirt, sticks, and insects. I just keep thinking in my mind how miserable it would be if I didn’t have game bags with me when I make a kill. Like the old saying goes, “I’d rather have it and not need it, than need it and not have it.” It’s also a great idea to pack garbage bags if hunting during the hot early season, to give you more options for preventing your meat from spoiling. Placing your meat in garbage bags and then placing them in a stream will ensure they stay cool while you pack the rest of your meat.

Game BagsI have used a lot of different brands and materials of game bags over the years, and I think I have finally found the perfect system for my style of hunting. Cotton has fairly decent breathability, but it doesn’t hold blood well, is difficult to reuse after washing due to staining and odor retention, and it tears easily. Canvas game bags are too heavy for most situations where you are backpacking them in. These would be a great option if you’re hunting from a horse. I prefer a light-weight, breathable, synthetic game bag, as it seems to solve these problems. I rarely get blood on the inside of my pack, they don’t retain odors after washing, and they are extremely lightweight. One thing to look at with synthetic game bags is breathability- make sure if you’re hunting a long distance from your vehicle that your game bags allow your meat to cool. The worst thing would be a game bag that keeps the heat in. Those types of bags might be the lightest weight, but they sacrifice the most important reason for a game bag in my opinion. Not having breathability will potentially spoil your hard earned meat.

A good knife it vital to “post-shot” success. The right one will be lightweight and sharp as a razor.

Cut It And Cool ItA person can quarter or de-bone an entire animal with just one knife and without using a heavy saw. I prefer to use a lightweight knife that has replaceable surgical blades. In total my knife and extra blades weigh just a few ounces. This system eliminates having to carry the weight of a sharpening stone each day. I do carry a small multi-tool that works perfectly for cutting branches out of the way before you start to break down your animal. For example, this past fall (2012) my mule deer buck lodged into some trees and pinned his rack in some branches when he collapsed. Having a small multi-tool saved me some heavy lifting as I was able to cut the branches away freeing my buck to slide down the steep slope to a small flat bench where I could work break him down. (backpack videos)

One important part about packing out your own game is how you will store your meat once you get back to your truck. For this reason I always bring along a cooler that I will place my first load of meat into while I make multiple trips for the rest of the meat. You do not want your meat sitting in the back of your truck all day, since that’s an invitation for insects and/or other animals to chew on it. If you’re in very rugged terrain, it is a good idea to pack trekking poles or leave a set at your truck that you can grab after your first load. They will provide some support for your body and help balance the weight when you’re putting on the miles with a heavy pack.

If you have to leave meat behind, find a place that will keep it cool and out of the hands of bears, insects, or other predators that may move in and steal your hard-earned trophy.

TacticsIf the animal is within your comfortable carrying distance, then you can probably get by with quartering your animal and leaving the meat on the bone. I used to quarter and pack all animals that I shot because I didn’t want to take the time in the field to de-bone it. Well…after packing a bunch of animals through the years, I finally said I had enough, and now I de-bone everything. De-boning an animal makes your pack weigh a lot less, makes it easier to fit multiple game bags full of meat in your pack, and it helps cool your meat down faster.

Small-framed animals such as antelope don’t necessarily require a complete “d-boning” process. Instead, many can be quartered and hauled back to the truck.

The Right Way To Pack ItI place my de-boned hindquarters in one game bag each and do the same for the front shoulders. All the rest of the meat (backstraps, tenderloins, neck, brisket, etc.) will get divided into the front shoulder bags. You will soon find out there is a proper way to pack meat out in a backpack and a way that will hurt your body. Place all your meat as close to your back as possible in your backpack, but keep it off the bottom of your pack for balance reasons. Nothing is more uncomfortable than having a heavy object strapped to the outside of your pack that will pull your body backwards or to the side. (choosing the right pack)

When I have gear with me on the first pack out, I will place all my extra clothes in the bottom of my pack with my sleeping bag. The rest of my gear (tent, food, etc.) will get distributed to the outside pockets to make room for the meat inside of the pack. If you’re concerned about getting a little blood on the inside of your pack then it will be useful to place your de-boned meat in a garbage bag. Some packs have load slings that enable the bag to move away from the frame, allowing the meat to be placed right next to your back, while still enabling your gear to be placed inside your backpack. I really love this design for comfort reasons and ease of carrying my gear out on the first trip.

You may have a good backpack, but if it isn’t loaded correctly, the load will wear you down fast; possibly even injure you.

It is also very important that you utilize your compression straps on the outside of your pack. Nothing is more frustrating than hiking out with a heavy load of meat and a big buck rack on the outside of your back and having the rack bounce up and down or the meat falling around in the backpack. It will wear you out in a hurry…trust me on this one. Don’t ever try to stand and lift the pack up to your shoulders either. For one…it will hurt and two it has the potential to tear your shoulder straps by forcing all the weight to that one area. Instead, before I load the meat in my pack, I will place my pack near a spot that allows me to sit down on a bench and slip the shoulder straps on and get my waist belt buckled. Then I just need to lean forward and stand up. If that is not an option in the area you shot your animal, then I would suggest sitting down and getting your pack strapped on and do those same steps, but before you try to stand, roll onto your hands and knees facing uphill and then push yourself off the ground. Once standing, you will be able to adjust the shoulder straps, sternum strap, and waist belt. (backpack forum)

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The best advice I was ever given was don’t pack out what you are not going to use or consume. If I know I am not going to mount the buck, I will remove the entire hide from the skull and start to remove some of the meat from it as well. Also, I will remove the lower jaw because I have never found a need for it. I usually do a skull mount of most of my average bucks, but if you really want to lighten more of your pack out weight, then you can cut the skull plate in half below the antlers.

Backpack ConsiderationsHaving a pack that can handle the extra weight of meat plus gear is something to take into consideration before your hunt. You cannot place a heavy load in a pack that isn’t designed for that function. Lightweight packs may be great for ease of hunting, but most of the time they lack the comfort and adjustability of a do-it-all type pack. I am a huge fan of a pack that I can use for a week long hunt, and if I harvest an animal I can use that same pack to haul meat out. I am not easy on my backpacks- to me they are a tool to haul weight and haul it comfortably. So I will use my same pack for hunting as well as getting my hard earned protein to the table.

Another great option if you don’t want to get your nice backpack a little dirty or if it cannot handle the weight, is to have an external frame meat pack waiting for you at the truck. This way you could process your animal in the field, hang the meat in a shaded tree to cool, and then hike back to your vehicle to retrieve your meat hauling pack. It comes down to personal preferences and whether or not you’re willing to burn more miles going to get a different pack. Personally, I follow the “less trips mentality, so I chose a backpack that can do anything I ask of it.

Closing TipsI always keep my knife and tags in the same pocket on my pack. That way I have peace of mind knowing that I won’t lose them or dig through all my gear after I make a kill to find them. For attaching your tags to your trophy, keep it simple and use electrical tape. I always bring along a short section just for tags, since you don’t need a full roll of extra weight. If you shot anything larger than a deer such as an elk or a moose and you need to make multiple trips, make sure you place your meat high in a tree away from the reach of bears.

The end goal is memories on the wall, and a freezer full of healthy venison. Take the right approach and this will be an easily achievable goal.

Also for multiple trips, ensure your meat will be in the shade most of the time while you are packing the first few loads of meat and select a location with ample breeze to further cool the meat while you are away. Another great option for keeping your meat safe from insects or bacteria is using a mixture of citric acid powder and water. Citric acid will slow bacteria growth and prevent flies from trying to get through your game bag. This would be a great option for the solo hunter who is chasing elk deep in the backcountry. Finally, always be cautious while cutting up meat and returning to meat hanging in a tree in bear country….you never know what could be waiting when you return.

When my husband first started hunting large game over a decade ago, I wanted nothing to do with the gut pile. Now? I’m rummaging through it trying to find all the good, often overlooked cuts of meat, and put as much of that animal to use as possible. This includes the almighty venison liver.

When it comes to nutrient-dense organ meats, the liver is the next logical step after trying venison heart. While the heart is very mild in flavor and most reminiscent of a really good steak, the liver takes a bit of a stronger palate and a more acquired taste. But, there are plenty of ways to make the often pungent flavor of the liver much more mild and worth the effort.

Historically, hunters would sautee the heart and liver at deer camp, eating the nutrient-dense organ meats before they ever left for home. But, today, that doesn’t happen as much. The liver, however, is arguably one of the most nutritionally dense foods on the planet, full of essential nutrients like Vitamin A, Vitamin B, copper, folate, and iron. But because of its often pungent flavor, it’s often overlooked.

Preparing Venison Liver

The liver is full of blood vessels, which gives it a pretty pungent flavor. This is especially true for large animals, but if you’ve had calves liver, or pig liver and enjoyed it, you’ll probably like deer liver.

The flavor profile for liver is pretty iron-like and a bit bitter, this is especially true of older bucks, while the flavor of younger bucks (less than 2 years) and does flavor is a bit milder from the start.

While the flavor in and of itself can be enough to turn some folks off from it if it’s prepared correctly you can turn any liver hater into someone who enjoys this nutrient-dense food.

So, how do you prepare it properly? To begin, you’ll want to simply remove the liver from your deer. While most animals have a bile duct you need to worry about and remove, deer actually don’t possess a gallbladder, so all you need to do is remove it. Once removed, you’ll want to thoroughly rinse it with cool water.

Next, you’ll want to slice or cube your liver. Not only will this increase the surface area for soaking out some of that pungent flavor, but it will also enable you to remove any gristly bits and veins from the liver tissues.

Then, you’re on to soaking. I recommend soaking your liver for 12-48 hours, changing the liquid at least once. For the mildest flavor, I recommend soaking the liver in milk, but you can also use saltwater. Saltwater doesn’t seem to pull out as much flavor as milk, though.

Of course, you can just eat fresh liver without soaking it, soaking it isn’t a safety concern, but a taste concern. We usually harvest, rinse, and soak it and eat it the next day, but it’s really a personal choice.

The longer you soak it, up to two full days from harvest, the more mild the flavor. What you use and for how long you soak is up to you, but if you’re trying deer liver for the first time, I suggest soaking it for at least 12 hours in milk or buttermilk before cooking it.

After soaking, you’ll simply remove the liver and rinse it off. I pour mine in a colander and rinse it under cool water until the milk is off and pat dry.

Cooking Venison Liver & Onions

After you’ve soaked and rinsed the liver, it’s just a matter of frying a little bacon, slicing up some onion, dredging the liver in seasoned flour, and frying it in butter in a cast-iron skillet.

Begin by dicing up bacon and frying it in a couple of tablespoons of butter. Once crispy, remove the bacon to a plate lined with paper towels to dry, leaving the grease in the skillet.

Meanwhile, combine flour, seasoning salt, black pepper, garlic powder, and paprika to make your dredge.

Dredge the liver pieces in seasoned flour, coating each side well. Continue until all of the pieces are well coated.

Slice onion into thick rings and brown them in the hot skillet of bacon grease over low heat.

Once the onions are nice and browned, move them to the side of the skillet away from the heat. Melt more butter and add your liver to the skillet, being sure not to crowd the skillet.

Brown the liver slices to a golden brown, over medium-high heat, for about four to five minutes for each side and remove to a plate lined with paper towels, until you’ve finished the entire batch, adding more butter as necessary.

The trick to flavorful, tender liver is to allow each side to brown, flipping the liver as little as possible, while not overcooking it (which results in tough liver).

Add all of the liver, onions, and bacon back to the skillet and toss together until mixed thoroughly.

Tips for Cooking Deer Liver

• Soak the liver for a minimum of 12 hours to remove the bitter flavors. Whole milk works well, or you can try salt water or a buttermilk soak.
• Keep the onion slices large, you want them similar in size to a bite of liver.
• Don’t overcook your liver. To keep it tender, you’ll want to cook it until there’s still a tiny hint of pink in the center.
• Pull the liver out of the refrigerator, drain, rinse and leave out while you prepare the rest of the ingredients so it’s warmer when you cook it.
• Cooking this dish in a cast iron skillet will yield the best results, but if you don’t have one any large skillet will work equally well.

If you’re looking for ideas on how to reconnect with your food, nature, and the heritage way of life, you’ve come to the right place.

Join over 40,000 like-minded folks in my Facebook group, The Self Sufficient Life. You can join by clicking here.

Other Venison Recipes to Try:

• Sous Vide Venison Roast
• How to Make Smoked Venison Jerky
• Easy Canned Venison Recipe

A lot of animals, over the years, have proved to be quite intelligent but none has measured up to humans. Of all mammals, humans are said to be the smartest. Having said that, there are some animals that display behaviors that make us wonder what goes on in their head. A deer is one of them.

If you’re here, you’re probably asking the same question. So, how smart are deer?

In this article, we will look at whether or not deer are smart and try to measure the level of their intelligence.

Are deer smart?

Deer are ruminant mammals belonging to the Cervidae family. Some species belonging to that family are White-tailed deer, mule deer, black-tailed deer, elk, moose, red deer, caribou, fallow deer, roe deer, pud, and chital among others.

Since deer are mammals, they can be said to be somewhat intellectual animals. They might not be as smart as you think but yes, they are quite smart. You see this intelligence playing out in how they search for food and various survival tactics they display in order to evade predators in the face of danger.

How smart are deer?

Deer are believed to have an EQ of 1, which indicates that they are averagely intelligent. So, they are actually smarter than most people give them credit for. They are intelligent enough to detect changes in the weather and have developed various means to survive in different seasons.

For instance, they know where to find food and have a keen sense of smell to detect humans and food from miles away. Deer are also known to have acute hearing and good vision, which are all signs of smartness.

Deer brain size

The brain is the controlling organ of a human being. The same can be said about ruminants such as deer. A deer’s brain measures around 4 by 3 inches, or the size of a person’s fist.

A deer’s brain is where it assimilates and processes information gotten from other sensory organs in the body.

Most sensory information that can trigger a deer’s response is obtained through vision and auditory mechanisms. When this information is obtained, their brain quickly processes it and responds. This helps them in evading hunters and other predators.

What is the smartest deer species?

Based on research and the experiences of several hunters, the whitetail doe is tagged as the smartest deer in the woods.

In fact, old does are the hardest to kill because of their keen senses and wariness, which is often seen in their swift, crafty movements and response in the face of danger.

In case you don’t know, a doe is a female deer. Older female whitetails don’t just look out for themselves, but also for other deer. So, they’re always on high alert!

How smart are deer compared to humans?

Deer brains are roughly 1/6th the size of human brains. While they have a heightened sense of smell compared to humans, they lack our capacity for critical and metacognitive reasoning.

They seem to be very good at finding food and evading predators. But humans possess far more superior cognitive capacity. For instance, humans have languages but deer don’t.

How smart are deer compared to dogs?

Even though deer are smart, they are not as smart as dogs. Several dog species, like huskies, are so smart that they can imitate English words spoken by their owners. This is something we don’t know deer to be capable of.

Also, like deer, dogs can seek food and evade predators. It’s quite easier to train a dog compared to a deer. Besides intelligence, another reason for this is that deer are wild animals.

Having said that, some dog breeds are not as smart as others, but in general, I will always bet on a dog’s intelligence over a deer’s.

How smart are whitetail deer?

Also known as Virginia deer, whitetail deer is a medium-sized deer that is endemic to North America, Central America, and South America, as far south as Peru and Bolivia. It primarily occupies high mountain environments.

When we observe the level of smartness in a whitetail deer, there are a lot of characters that show proof that they do indeed have the ability to reason, take rational actions, remember, and react. If this were not the case, the lineage of deer would never have survived.

Whitetail deer have very sharp senses of smell, vision, and hearing, which makes it difficult for hunters to catch them, as well as predators. More so, when a doe births, even for the first time, she takes care of the affair as if she herself had handled the delivery of babies before.

Also if you miss a shot on a mature whitetail from your aim or startle the deer, it would be almost impossible to get it at the same spot. The deer might continue to use the area around, but it will stay well away from that spot because it recalls the incident.

Are deer smarter than cows?

Cows are one of the smartest domestic animals. They possess adept problem-solving skills. They are as intelligent as a three-year-old child.

Compared to cows and other domestic farm animals, deer are more intelligent. They are capable of adjusting to food shortages and can avoid hazardous conditions.

One of the things that distinguish a deer from a cow is their good sense of smell. They are thought to have an almost identical sense of smell to dogs. Their excellent sense of smell helps them to find food easily and escape predators.

With hunting being such a long-standing, time-honored tradition in this country and around the world, it only stands to reason that over time, a number of practices or “traditions within the tradition” have developed among regions, cultures and particularly among individual groups of hunters.

Some are serious and revered, while others are, well, just plain strange to the uninitiated. Here’s a short list of traditions that run the spectrum of good, bad and just plain ugly.

— The Good —

Prayer

As in many aspects of life, prayer figures prominently in the hunt where sportsmen of faith – though often varying degrees of practicing it – can all agree that the time outdoors we enjoy, the friendships forged through a common love of hunting and nature, and particularly, the game we take are all blessed events that reflect the Lord’s grace.

As such, as soon as the game has hit the ground, there are many hunters who, before any game is moved or even tagged, will kneel or bow before the fallen creature and recite a prayer, honoring the animal with both blessings and remembrance.

Holding of Court

In the Southeast, where the deer hunting with hounds culture still reigns in shrinking rural pockets as it has since colonial times, a tradition that is also dying with the rush of modern culture is the “holding of court” at the end of the day when organized hunts are held.

Growing up hunting at the former United Hunt Club in Southampton County, Va., I have fond memories as a boy standing among the men in the freezing night air and gathered around the open skinning shed as court came into session. In all my years there, I only remember two different men serving as judge and they would open court allowing any hunter who had missed a deer that day to throw himself on the mercy of the court.

Few did as the banter that ensued was much more entertaining for everyone when an accused attempted to deny that he had missed and blame the shots on somebody else. Ultimately, those found guilty of missing often had to pay a fine by having their shirt tail cut – typically an inch for each fired shot – though on rare occasions, the hijinks got so animated that I saw the hat brims removed, entire shirts slashed, and once, a removed boot chopped by a meat cleaver!

This tradition played out through varying degrees throughout the South and underscored the social nature of this type of club hunting. Even though the old clubhouse sits largely unused these days, shirt tails, many more than 40 years old, still blow in the breeze beneath that skinning shed roof.

Lighting the Fire

Missouri outdoor writer Tony Kalna Jr. grew up hunting the Ozarks with his dad, grandfather and uncle, and they would pitch deer or turkey camp, depending on the season, and hunt for a whole week every year.

While in camp, they would use pine wood collected from old stumps that remained from past forest fires or had become almost petrified and formed fast burning lightered wood to always start their fire in camp. In 1983, family members bought a farm closer to where they lived and quit hunting the mountains shortly after. But on their final hunt, a turkey hunt, Tony and one of his relatives hauled one of these huge pine stumps out of the woods and back to their farm.

Every year since, they have chopped a small piece of wood from the stump and used it to build the first fire at each season’s deer camp. The stump is half gone by now, but because it takes so little of the flammable wood to ignite a good burning fire, Tony figures it will outlive him.

— The Bad —

First Deer

There are a number of long held – and sometimes odd – traditions surrounding the taking of a person’s first deer and the blood, or more rarely consumed organs, of that deer.

Some are really kind of cool, including a “blooding” rite as it is sometimes called whereby the lucky hunter’s forehead and/or cheeks are dabbed or smeared with blood to initiate them among them among the ranks of accomplished hunters. If not all hunters have celebrated their first kill in that manner, they have likely at least heard of it. A twisted twist on that experience is to remove the heart or liver from the still warm animal and take a bite from it.

“…a number of practices or “traditions within the tradition” have developed among regions, cultures and particularly among individual groups of hunters.”

That one may be a little too Legends of the Fall for most folks, and with concerns over blood-contaminating illnesses such as CDW or hemorrhagic disease, may not be the best way to continue that tradition. Some people even drink some of the deer’s blood, which unless you’re auditioning for a scene in the next Twilight movie, is just a bit ick.

A cool twist on the practice comes from Brian McCombie in Wisconsin, who says successful hunters will sometimes simmer the deer’s heart in water, along with celery, onion and beer, then slice and eat it. That’s one many of us could work with.

Drinking Night Before the Opener

For all the ink and genuine acceptance of women among the ranks of hunters, by and large, many hunting camps remain a “boys only” affair, where friends and male relatives annually gather to not only hunt, but also enjoy the camaraderie of men with a shared interest in hunting.

Nowhere is this more prevalent than in deer hunting where, as with most male-oriented activities, social time is spent drinking an alcoholic beverage or eight the night before opening day. This can lead to ready laughter and a plenty of good stories of stupidity that will be shared for years to come, but on more than a few of these occasions, I’ve personally witnessed hunters too hung over the next day to even crawl out of bed and hunt – or on rare occasions, were still inebriated so where they weren’t allowed to hunt. Enjoy a frosty beverage, or even a few, but try not to get so wild you miss opening morning. That’s just plain out stupid.

Clearing Out the Camper

Not so sure this counts as a tradition, but in researching this article, I came across this one in a thread on camp traditions. One hunter posted how his and his buddies’ hunt camp consists of many trailers, and on the Friday night before the deer opener, they all gather to B.S. in one of the campers.

However, as often occurs when among a group of dudes, someone “cuts the cheese,” as this hunter explained, at which point, everyone would get up and gather in another trailer. The conversation would resume until another “airing out” instance occurred and then they would move on to the next. Not sure what you do if you only have one cabin or tent for everyone to hang out in. Could be an unpleasant tradition to start on your camp.

— The Ugly —

Buck Sign

One Alabama hunter shared this tradition with me – a throwback to her dad’s younger days before there were cell phones, texting and even walkie-talkies. To this day, her dad and some of his contemporaries still follow the practice, but when they kill a buck and field dress it, they hang the severed genitals from a tree so anyone who happens past the gut pile will know the deer taken there was a buck. They can then excitedly hurry back to camp to see how big the trophy was taken by one of their hunting partners.

No Razors, Please

Another extremely individualized tradition among deer camps includes the resistance to shaving while hunting. On a message board, I found one hunter whose entire camp of guys doesn’t shave for the entire two-month long hunting season.

It worked for Robert Redford as Jeremiah Johnson – until his squaw trimmed him – and everyone knows how well it has worked for the Duck Commander boys. “Best marketing strategy ever thought of and it doesn’t cost us anything,”

Willie Robertson once told me concerning his father Phil’s decision to let the beards grow. Of course, if you still spend the majority of your time during hunting season in an office or shop instead of the woods or filming a hunting show, the ZZ Top look might garner you more Deliverance-minded stares of fear than smiles of admiration.

Horn Dance

I apologize, but I had to go out of country for this one, and it really is kind of a cool tradition once you know the history behind it. But at first glance, anytime you catch a video of men in knickers and lederhosen dancing in circles with each other sporting heavy racks above their heads, you have to stop and wonder.

What I’m talking about is the Abbots Bromley Horn Dance in Staffordshire, England, this year to be celebrated Sept. 10 in the village of, where else, Abbots Bromley. The dance was first performed as part of the Barthelmy Fair in August 1226. That means for 786 years, each year, dudes have been dressing up and dancing with antlers to celebrate the hunt.

Not sure if it blesses a hunt or just serves a rural curiosity among visitors these days (most likely the latter), but I can imagine me trying to get a bunch of hardened Dale Earnhardt-looking Midwestern hunters to dress like the sky ride attendant at Busch Gardens and dance daintily with antlers above their heads to the sound of a gonging chime.

Axes are ancient tools that come in very handy for the modern explorer. To the uninitiated, axes may all seem the same. In fact, there are several types and various constructions, some of which are better suited for off-roading, overlanding, and camping.

In this article, we’ll cover the best axes for camping and overlanding, how to choose one, and why you might need one. If you are simply looking for a quick recommendation, the Gerber Bushcraft Axe is a good choice for a durable, all-around backcountry axe.

Our Recommendations for Best Axes

Gerber is well-known for making quality tools for backcountry adventures. In recent years, as they’ve worked to appeal to a larger market, they’ve managed to bring down the price of their once-expensive knives, multi-tools, and other equipment.

The Gerber Bushcraft Axe hits a sweet spot between affordability and function and is a great all-around axe for camping and vehicle-based outdoor adventure. The axe is great for cutting rounds of wood and kindling and is sturdy enough for clearing thick tree branches. The hammer on the back of the axe comes in handy for hammering in tent pegs and other camp tasks. This is the heavy axe on our list, but offers the widest functionality. The axe comes with a sheath that covers the head. It comes with Gerber’s limited lifetime warranty.

Here’s my video review of the Gerber axe:

The Council Tool Boy’s Axe is a great size for camping and on-the-fly trail work. The 2.25-pound head is Dayton style and the handle is made of hickory. These aren’t as fancy as the high-end Nordic-made axes, but they are solid, unpretentious utility axes that get the job done.

Gränsfors Bruk is one of the premier Swiss axe makers, and it’s worth highlighting several of their models. These axes are a premium product and don’t come cheap. That said, they are the kind of tool you lovingly pass down to future generations.

Their Small Forest Axe has a narrow head that’s great for cutting through trunks and branches. You can certainly still use this for splitting wood, but it will be more difficult given the narrow axe head and lack of a metal collar on the top of the handle. It comes with a leather sheath. The back of the axe head can be used as a hammer.

Here’s a video about the company and its manufacturing process:

The German company, Helko Werk has been making axes since 1844 and is one of the oldest axe makers still operating in Europe. Their Journeyman Pack axe is designed to be lightweight, compact, and easy to carry while trekking through the wilderness. Comfortable to use one or two-handed, the Journeyman is a versatile tool for cutting kindling, removing limb branches, building shelters, and other light splitting or cutting work.

The Gränsfors Bruk Outdoor Axe is much shorter than the other axes on this list, making it easier to stow and carry. Its head is thin enough for felling trees and chopping limbs, but still has enough taper to be used for splitting and the handle has a protective steel collar near the head so that the axe can be used for light wood splitting tasks. Like the Helko Werk axe noted above, this is an axe that you can easily put into a backpack. It comes with a leather sheath. The back of the axe head can be used as a hammer.

Named for the US park ranger who developed this axe design, Pulaski-style axes, also known as cutter matlock, combine a felling axe head with an adze (narrow hoe-like tool) that can be used for digging in hard ground or chipping away at bark.

While they aren’t as good as the other axes at chopping and cutting wood, they are highly versatile. The adze can come in handy if you need to trench a latrine or break through ice. The Barebones Pulaski axe is a beast, with a high-carbon steel head and a steel core running through the handle. It’s on the heavy side at 5.55 pounds, but the weight gives you momentum for breaking though tough wood and ground.

How to Choose the Best Axe

An axe is a must for chopping firewood when camping. A hatchet is great for chopping small kindling, but larger rounds are much easier to split with a larger axe. They are also clutch for clearing trail obstructions when overlanding and off-roading. In heavily wooded areas, it’s not uncommon to come across tree limbs blocking in the trail, in which case an axe will help you to quickly clear the way and carry on.

Some axes, such as the Pulaski style axe discussed below, integrate additional functionality that can come in handy for breaking hard ground when you need to dig a hole and for other tasks. Combined with an off-road shovel, an axe can help solve many problems on the trail.

There are several factors to keep in mind when choosing an ax, including the axe’s construction, style, size, and cost.

Some of the most sought-after axes on the market are made in Scandinavian countries that boast a long history of axe craftsmanship — think Vikings and big axes. That said, a number of American companies make quality axes that are well worth considering.

Axe Construction

Most axe heads are made from various types of steel, with the most expensive being hand-forged versus cast. Forged steel is widely considered to result in a stronger product compared to casting, where molten metal is poured into a mold to harden. In the old days, this hammering was done manually, with a hammer, but companies that produce large quantities of axes nowadays typically use an automatic press that does the hammering. Some smaller, boutique axe manufacturers still bang out axe heads by hand.

For light use, the difference between forging and casting may never be an issue, while the difference in cost is significant. High-quality axe heads are typically made from a steel alloy that is high in carbon, which allows the head to be sharpened and hold an edge longer.

One thing you’ll see is the shape of an axes head as either Dayton style or Hudson style, particularly for axes made in America. The Dayton-style heads are more square, and good for general outdoor jobs. The Hudson-style heads fan out from the handle to form a wide cutting surface.

Axe handles are typically made of wood (hickory is a good choice) or a fiberglass or plastic composite. Sometimes the handle will incorporate a metal core to provide strength and balance the handle and the head.

Wooden handles axes will typically require more maintenance than those with composite handles. This is particularly true in desert regions where extremely dry air can cause wood to crack. However, they are also typically easier to repair than a composite handle, and the provenance of composite handles can be a bit difficult to discern sometimes (a.k.a., the head may be forged in the US or Europe, but the handle may be mass-produced in China).

Axe Length

A full-sized axe used by lumberjacks is around 36-inches long, but that’s unnecessarily large for off-roading and camping. Something smaller, around 24-inches long, will be more versatile and easier to transport. There are also axes, like the Gränsfors Outdoor Axe mentioned below, which fall somewhere between a hatchet and a full-size axe. This gives you a nice mix of compact size with a bit more swinging power than a hatchet.

Axe Style

Axes can be divided into three broad categories: splitting axes, felling axes and generalist axes used for a variety of tasks.

How to choose?

The style of axes that is best for you depends to a large extent on how you anticipate using it most. If you’ll mostly be chopping wood in camp, you’ll probably lean more towards a splitting axe. If you’ll be clearing a lot of trees off of trails, a felling axe will come in handy. If you anticipate needing to break hard ground as well as deal with wood, the Pulaski axe will provide you with that versatility.

While they may are designed towards a specific use, most axes can be used for splitting and felling. So don’t get too hung up on what style you buy — with axes such as splitting mauls that have a very specific purpose being the exception. Generally speaking, for camping and overlanding it’s a good idea to choose a relatively compact and lightweight axe that can withstand the elements.

As a word of caution, as with many products, there are many cheap knockoffs on the market nowadays. The old saying, you get what you pay for, doesn’t even hold up with some of these products. Sometimes you get far less than you pay for. The axes we highlight below are high-quality products from reputable manufacturers.

All Recommended Axes

With their towering manes, searing stares, and distinctive roar, lions have been the symbol of power for centuries. But just how powerful are lion bites?

The lion has a deadly bite force of 650 psi. While this may seem like a powerful bite force at first, the lions surprisingly have one of the weaker bite forces when it comes to big cats and predators. However, this weaker bite force doesn’t affect a lion’s ability to hunt its prey.

This article will cover the bite force of the lion and how it compares to the bite forces of other big cats in the jungle.

A Lion’s Bite force

The lion’s average bite force has been recorded to be around 650 PSI. When comparing this to a human’s bite force of a mere 150 PSI, this may look extremely strong, but lions have a weak bite force compared to the bigger cats.

A lion’s most substantial bite has been estimated to be close to 1000 PSI. The strength of the bite has to do with many different factors as well. The maturity and age of a lion are essential factors, coupled with the sex of the lion and what teeth it uses.

While female lions are usually the main hunters of the pride, a male lion sometimes joins in to take down larger and stronger prey.

It’s understandable how the lion doesn’t have the strongest bite force, but then the question presents itself, how did the lion rise to be the king of the jungle?

The answer here lies in technique. Lions attack the throat, generally a weaker area of an animal, and don’t require a massive force to kill their prey.

Lion Bite Force Compared

Being the king of the jungle comes with a lot of comparison and competition.

At times, it may be other bigger cats or hyenas posing competition and trying to fight the lion for power or a dead carcass of prey.

Other times, it may be an article comparing a lion’s bite force to other predators in the jungle.

1. Bite Force Compared To Tigers

Tigers are one of nature’s finest and deadliest predators in the world. Ferocious and ruthless when it comes to hunting its prey.

A tiger’s bite force is estimated to be an average of 1050 psi; that is almost similar to the bite maximum bite force estimated for a wholly grown male lion which is 1000 psi but far greater than their average.

The superior bite force of a tiger makes it understandable why a tiger prefers hunting alone because, with a bite force that strong, few animals can survive a tiger’s attacks.

2. Bite Force Of a Great White Shark

With the release of the highly acclaimed movie Jaws in 1975, the great white sharks became famous as the big bad predators of the ocean. It would be fair to compare the bite force of a lion with the great white shark.

Unfortunately, accurate measurements are difficult to come by, with some estimates as low as 625 psi and others as high as 4,000 psi.

If you thought measuring the bite force of a lion was difficult, try adding the underwater element into the mix.

3. Bite Force Of a Dog

Dogs are known as man’s best friend, but their bite force is dangerous. Generally, dogs can bite with a force of 325 PSI.

However, some bigger breeds of dogs, such as Mastiffs, German Shepherds, and Rottweilers, have a bite force closer to 500 PSI.

Although this might not feel that strong at first, a dog’s smaller size makes it difficult for them to have a stronger bite force.

Final Thoughts on Lion’s Bite Force

The lion is a highly magical creature that oozes class with every feature it possesses. It is distinguishable, and being the jungle king comes with many scrutinies.

A lion has a bite force of 650 psi, and although it may not be as powerful as the bite force of other big cats, it is essential to realize that the lion is efficient with its jaw and bite force.

FAQs

The world’s oceans are full of fascinating creatures, including quite a few large and rather intimidating marine animals! If you love nature and the ocean as much as we do at Harbor Breeze Cruises, we hope you’ll be excited to gain some insight into two predators found in the oceans: the orca and the great white shark.

Meet These Impressive Apex Predators

Great white sharks and orcas are known as apex predators, which means that they reside at the top of the food chain. They play a crucial role in regulating the populations of other species and maintaining the balance of the world’s delicate marine ecosystems.

Because great white sharks and orcas are two of the most iconic marine mammals in the world, it’s no surprise that a debate exists over which animal is the most formidable.

Orca vs great white shark . . . which one is bigger? Which one is faster? Which one is the most relentlessly fierce and deserves to be known as the ultimate marine predator? Let’s see if this debate can be settled once and for all!

Orca vs Great White Size

On average, orcas—also known as killer whales—are twice as long and three times as heavy as great white sharks, making their difference in size and weight quite significant. The orca’s larger body mass and muscular build contribute to their ability to take down larger prey with relative ease. So, when it comes to orca vs great white size, the orca is the clear winner in this category.

Great White vs Orca Speed

Great white sharks are incredibly fast swimmers; they can reach speeds of up to 25 miles per hour in short bursts. It’s worth noting, however, that orcas are faster when swimming long distances. Orcas can reach speeds of up to 35 miles per hour and, most importantly, they can maintain this consistent speed. When it comes to great white vs orca in terms of speed, the answer essentially depends on the distance they’re swimming.

Orca vs Great White Teeth and Bite Force

The orca’s bite force is estimated to be around 19,000 pounds per square inch (psi), while the great white shark’s bite is closer to 4,000 psi. An orca’s teeth are designed for tearing or shredding, but not for chewing; they consume their food in chunks or swallow their prey whole. In contrast, great white sharks have sharp and serrated teeth, making it possible for them to immobilize their prey and slice through flesh. According to Animals Around the Globe, “Great white sharks . . . have 300 sharp triangular teeth in several rows in their mouths. They also have an extraordinary sense of smell which helps them detect their prey from far away.” Though bite force and the shape of their teeth must be considered when comparing these apex predators, another comparison that needs to be made involves how they hunt.

Great White vs Orca Hunting Techniques

Orcas and great white sharks take different approaches to hunting. Great white sharks prefer to hunt alone; they use their speed and agility to ambush their predators at lightning speed. Orcas, on the other hand, hunt in pods of up to 40 whales so they can have an even better chance of taking down their prey, which often includes large mammals such as seals and sea lions. Regarded as social and cooperative hunters, orcas seem to understand the importance of underwater teamwork, utilizing their strength and size to ensure that they have the big, filling meals they need to survive and thrive.

Orca vs Great White Shark: Who’s the Apex Predator?

Are you tempted to say that the orca is the apex predator, considering its size, weight, speed, bite force, and hunting strategies? Or are you inclined to believe that even though the shark is smaller, its speed, rows of sharp teeth, and agility make it the apex predator?

If you were to cast your vote on which is the ocean’s apex predator based on appearance alone, the great white shark would surely be the winner. Their frightening appearance has even inspired Hollywood movies like Jaws and Deep Blue Sea.

Many scientists and researchers, however, seem to agree that the orca is the more ferocious predator, hunting and catching whatever type of prey becomes available to them. Orcas seem to have no fear and, of course, working together boosts their overall success rate.

All comparisons considered, it also comes down to which one could kill the other. While there is no evidence to suggest that orcas regularly prey on great white sharks, American Oceans writes, “Orcas are also the only known predators of great white sharks. Scientists have been studying this behavior for several years and have even captured video footage of orcas killing and eating great white sharks off the coast of South Africa. The orcas use their powerful jaws and teeth to inflict fatal wounds on the sharks, and then consume their liver, which is a nutrient-rich organ.” A-Z Animals also notes, “According to a 2019 report, orcas that relocate to an area to hunt seals will drive away any great white sharks that previously resided in the area. In addition, these sharks tend to keep clear of the area for at least an entire season. This reluctance to return indicates that the sharks possess some level of fear of the orcas and do not wish to chance an encounter by returning too soon.”

Interestingly, Science Focus declares orcas as the apex predator upon taking another important factor into consideration: their intelligence. Their article simply states, “Not only are orcas much bigger, they are also smarter.”

Join Us on an Unforgettable Cruise

Orcas and great white sharks—along with other marine life—remind us of the importance of respecting, protecting, and appreciating these magnificent animals and the oceans in which they live.

Harbor Breeze Cruises is proud to offer year-round whale-watching tours that are affordable and family-friendly. During your cruise, you can plan to sit back and relax while you wait to spot whales and dolphins in their natural habitat. You’ll feel right at home on the water on our eco-friendly, comfortable, and state-of-the-art catamarans operated by friendly and knowledgeable crew members, including educators representing the Aquarium of the Pacific.

For more information or to book a tour with Harbor Breeze Cruises, call 562-432-4900 or purchase your tickets online. We’d be thrilled to welcome you aboard one of our whale-watching cruises. While seeing a killer whale is not guaranteed, it’s certainly a possibility! Our crew and passengers have spotted blue whales, gray whales, humpback whales, and other whale species, and we can confidently say that no matter what type of whale species you may spot during a cruise with Harbor Breeze, you’ll be humbled by and grateful for the experience.