“Unveiling the truth: Can a .22 air rifle take down a coyote? Delve into the efficacy and limitations of this weapon as we explore its potential to neutralize one of nature’s wiliest predators. Discover the factors at play and gain insights into the practicality and ethical considerations surrounding this contentious matter.”
can a.22 air rifle kill a coyote
When it comes to hunting coyotes, many hunters wonder if a.22 air rifle can effectively take down these elusive creatures. The answer to this question is not straightforward and depends on several factors. Firstly, it is important to note that coyotes are resilient animals with thick fur and tough hides, making them more resistant to smaller caliber ammunition. While a.22 air rifle may be able to inflict injury, it may not deliver a lethal shot unless placed precisely.
Additionally, the power and accuracy of the specific.22 air rifle being used play a crucial role. Some high-powered models with velocities exceeding 1000 feet per second (fps) can produce enough force to kill a coyote if the shot placement is ideal. However, most standard.22 air rifles have lower velocities and may lack the stopping power required for an ethical and humane kill on such large game. Therefore, using a.22 air rifle for coyote hunting should be approached with caution and requires careful consideration of equipment capabilities and shot placement.
In conclusion, while a.22 air rifle may be capable of injuring or even killing a coyote under certain circumstances, it is not considered an optimal choice for humane and effective coyote control. It is recommended to consult local authorities and use legally approved methods for dealing with coyote-related issues to ensure both safety and ethical treatment of wildlife.
Tired of leaky waders? In this guide, I’ll show you how to repair breathable waders, so you can get back on the water in no time.
After a heavy 2021 of fly fishing, my Simms waders developed a leak in the neoprene bootie. It is one of those miserable feelings standing in the water and feeling the cold water creep in.
The good news was that I had wool socks so it wasn’t too cold but my whole right leg was soaked.
Many people would send them back to the manufacturer but I had heard stories about how long Simms was taking to repair waders. People were telling me that they were going to have to wait months before Simms would repair their waders.
I had repaired a pair of GoreTex Simm’s waders before that I cut open on a rock so I knew how to fix the legs, but I didn’t really know how to fix the bootie-or if that was even possible.
As it turns out, Simms does not recommend repairing the booties at the seam. So, if you have a leak in the seam, you are better off sending it for them to put on new booties.
My hole appeared to be in the big toe area and nowhere near the seam, so I gave it a try. Low and behold, it worked perfectly.
A fishing friend of mine is sitting on several pairs of leaking waders because he won’t try to fix them himself. Well, to be honest, he tried once, and it didn’t turn out well for him or the waders. I think he’s waiting on me to offer to do it for him.
So, if you find yourself in the same situation, here are the steps I took:
There are a few ways to identify leaks. One way is to turn your waders inside out. Put rubbing alcohol into a spray bottle and spray the legs of the waders, seat area, and chest. Basically, any place you want to check for leaks.
Holes show up as a little black dot.
Circle those dots with a magic marker.
Another way is to fill the waders with water. However, Simms cautions that you should not fill the entire wader all the way to the top but only as high as the knee area. Anything more and you risk damaging your waders because of the weight of the water can rip seams. In my case, I could see that the neoprene was worn right near my big toe.
In my research, I discovered that the big toe was one area that was frequently damaged by rubbing or large toenails.
Rips and tears are pretty obvious. In my case, I could easily see through my waders to know I had worn away the neoprene in the bootie.
Get Yourself Some Aquaseal And Patches
Aquaseal will be your friend.
This rubber cement-type product is highly recommended by wader companies for repairs. It is durable and flexible and works on waders, neoprene wetsuits, and dry bags for repairs that last.
Simms and Aquaseal offer wader repair kits that include Tenacious Tape patches to make the repairs more precise and permanent. I highly suggest getting these kits because everything you need is right in the kit.
Be Patient And Build Layers.
The key to using Aquaseal is to make sure you don’t glob it on all at one time, but you put build it up in layers. I just used a little bit at first over the worn area. I went a little larger than the worn area and let it dry overnight.
Let the area cure.
The next day, I put a little more on and let that dry. I did this for about 3 days straight.
By the end, the Aquaseal glue had dried nicely, and I tested the bootie again by filling it up with water and it held.
Don’t Do It All At One Time
My friend who is waiting for me to do his wader repairs can be impatient at times.
So, he put Aquaseal on all the black dots that he saw, turned the waders over and somehow the legs got stuck together. I recommend that you do one leg at a time, or the front or the back at a time, let it dry and switch.
Don’t let the legs touch while the glue is still wet, or you will be like my friend and have a pair of Simms G4’s where the legs are glued to each other.
Test Your Repair
There is nothing worse than having ice-cold water steep into your waders on a cold winter day on the river. So, test your repair.
If you can fill your waders with water because your repair is below the knee, test them by filling them up to the knee. That’s how I tested my booties.
If they are above the knee, then spray the alcohol again on your waders and look for the black dots.
The good news was that using the technique above, I now have a dry pair of waders and it only took a few days to repair. If you have the time, most wader companies will offer to do repairs. You will have to be patient. Or you can give it a try and do it yourself.
One pro tip that I read says to store your Aquaseal in the freezer.
When you want to use it, put it in warm water to heat up. I can’t tell you if this works or not because I just put it in a Ziploc bag and put it in the freezer. I haven’t needed to use it since my initial repair.
The best crossbow broadhead for deer in 2024 is the Muzzy Trocar for its incomparable penetration and accuracy on large game.
Once so simple, choosing your crossbow broadhead has become far more complex over the past years, with the introduction of new technology to add more ‘functionality’ to the best crossbow broadheads available.
Choosing the right broadhead is a personal decision, not only depending on the shooting conditions (distance, wind), but also personal preference regarding desired penetration, accuracy, wound channel and blood trail.
You can only glean so much information online, so honestly, my best advice is to read the reviews, and then get out there and try the different broadheads until you find one that you love.
First of all I’ve rounded up some definitions of terms you’ll hear often when talking about crossbow broadheads throughout the reviews:
Cutting diameter
It refers to the minimum potential wound size a broadhead can cause, or in other words the width measurement from blade tip edge to blade tip edge.
In theory a wider diameter has more chance of damaging important tissue and reaching vital organs, although there is a possible trade off with accuracy (more surface area for the wind to take hold) and penetration (less likely to enter the animal so far).
Shock collars
A small ring placed below the broadhead where it fixes to the arrow which a) keeps the broadhead steadily in place and b) absorbs shock upon impact in order to protect the broadhead.
Grain weight
Broadhead weight is measured in grains, and most will come in both 100-grain and 125-grain options, maybe even up to 150. I generally recommend the 100-grain for best accuracy over 20-50 yards, and the 125-150s for upwards of 50-60.
The 125-grain will also provide more penetration on bigger game, and given the shorter arrows used for crossbows, can provide more weight to the front of the arrow (“front-over-center” balance), maintaining stability and reducing cross-wind influence.
Blade Tip
There are two options here, either chisel-tips which are designed for a big impact on big game, with thick hides – fur, fat and bone. Or, you can opt for the cut-on-contact tip, which aims to slice immediately with deep penetration. See informative discussion here.
Number of blades
Broadheads generally come in one, two or three-blade variations. Arguably, the two-blade achieves better penetration, and the three-blade increases the wound channel. For this reason (but not always), you would do better with two-blades for bigger game to penetrate deep and split bone.
Honestly though, there are other more important factors such as where you hit the prey, with what force, cutting diameter, what type of broadhead, and at what angle.
Fixed-blade or mechanical
Fixed-blades are traditional arrowheads where the broadhead blade is firmly attached to the head. There are also some ‘removable’ fixed-blade broadheads which allow you to replace a single blade, rather than the whole broadhead.
Mechanical broadheads have retractable blades which come out on impact, making the arrow flight as uninterrupted and aerodynamic as possible.
Fixed-blade or mechanical crossbow broadheads: what should I use?
Up until recently I’d have said that the fixed-blade won hands down every time. However, the mechanical broadhead is becoming more and more effective, giving experienced hunters a headache when faced with the choice.
Although mechanical broadheads are good 90% of the time, I know few people that would opt for a mechanical broadhead when faced with that really tough, make or break shot to take down the biggest game – it’s just too unreliable.
That said, maybe this perception is changing little by little, so let’s look at the facts regarding fixed-blade and mechanical broadheads.
How do mechanical broadheads work?
When an arrow is flying through the air towards its target, the more surface area that the broadhead has, the more susceptible to influence from crosswinds it will be, taking it off-course.
Step up the mechanical broadhead.
The idea of a mechanical broadhead is to reduce the surface area of the broadhead and improve on aerodynamic drag, by retracting the blades until the moment of impact, upon which the blades deploy to further increase the damage.
If the blades are withdrawn during flight, this should also improve concentricity. Concentricity is essentially the arrow spinning perfectly through the air around its centre, ensuring that the mechanical blades don’t deploy while in the air, before impact.
Ideally an arrow is steered by its fletching at the back, however what’s known as planing can occur, where the wide-surface-area broadhead takes control of the arrow’s flight path, causing long-distance inefficiencies.
A mechanical broadhead is forgiving on beginner hunters or poorly tuned crossbows.
It sounds wonderful, however mechanical broadheads have their drawbacks. These mechanical heads have a tendency not to deploy, or may come apart upon impact, ultimately failing to penetrate sufficiently and leaving the animal in distress, or getting away.
Fixed-blade broadheads
What the fixed-blade makes up for is clinical impact, or in other words strength and penetration.
These days fixed-heads have excellent designs, which make them exceptionally aerodynamic to the point where they may even match mechanical broadheads, a lot of the time.
A question of quality
Mechanical broadheads generally fail for one of two reasons.
Either the blades do not retract, and therefore they remain exposed during the flight, subjecting the arrow to influence by the wind.
Or they malfunction on impact. A high-quality design uses high-quality mechanical blades which are better fixed to the broadhead, or may even be heat-treated so that they bend, instead of snapping off.
Making sure that the broadheads you purchase are made of steel instead of aluminium will help with concentricity, too.
Choosing the best crossbow broadheads for your crossbow
The best crossbow broadheads are designed with the following functions in mind:
Penetration
An arrow may kill in any one of the following ways:
Blood loss
Damage to the nervous system
Destruction of vital organs
Septicemia or asphyxiation
The further through an animal the projectile goes, the more likely the hunter to achieve their goal of an ethical kill.
Questions to ask yourself:
How deep into the animal does your arrow seat itself?
Does it go all the way through, causing faster bleeding and a faster, more ethical death?
How does the crossbow broadhead contribute to that penetration?
Accuracy
Accuracy speaks for itself. we want to be accurate to not only hit our prey, but hit it exactly where we want to for an ethical kill.
Questions to ask yourself when reviewing the best crossbow broadheads:
How well does the bolt and broadhead leave the crossbow?
How many touch points are there with the crossbow which could alter its course on the way out?
Does the broadhead’s form (surface area) make it more or less susceptible to influence by the conditions, such as wind or rain?
Once the bolt leaves the crossbow, how does the broadhead affect the bolt’s concentricity? Does it spin more or less evenly for a true aim? Mechanical broadheads are particularly guilty of unbalancing an arrow.
Wound channel
Wound channel refers to the size of the channel made by the arrow, through the prey. An arrow kills in any one of the following ways:
Blood loss
Damage to the nervous system
Destruction of vital organs
Septicemia or asphyxiation
For an ethical kill, a large wound channel is more likely to achieve its goal. Does the crossbow broadhead help to achieve this?
Blood trail
More blood makes it easier to track game after you shoot them. The best designed crossbow broadheads, aside from causing a large wound channel, maintain heavy blood loss so as to track the animal easily.
Best crossbow in 2024
Fastest crossbow in 2024
Best Crossbow Broadhead in 2024 Reviews
The following best crossbow broadheads ratings are in no particular order, as the best depends on the game you are hunting, expected shooting distances and your experience.
NAP Spitfire Crossbow Review
Use on: small to medium-sized game over all distances
If you’re looking for a mechanical broadhead which flies like a field point and leaves a great blood trail, then the NAP Spitfire could well be the broadhead for you.
When I tested them, I had good penetration working with the 125-gr, maybe as it has a slightly smaller cutting diameter of 1.5 inches.
This nonetheless provides a reasonable wound channel and large enough blood trail to track the animal. If you get good contact though it won’t get very far thanks to the ‘Trophy Tip’ which is designed to penetrate on larger game.
Nonetheless, I’d probably use these broadheads on small to medium-sized game. The combination of the penetrative tip, decent cutting diameter and mechanical action make it perfect for deer hunting.
It has three cut-on-contact diamize sharpened blades, and the ferrule on the spitfire has microgrooves for enhanced accuracy and penetration.
Pros
best mechanical broadhead for crossbow
Best crossbow broadheads for deer
Decent blood trail
Cons
The blades have a tendency to open while stalking game
Use on: small to medium-sized game over all distances
The Swhacker set of 3 broadheads are dependable mechanical broadheads, almost guaranteed to deploy thanks to their solid design.
It has a hardened high-carbon-steel, cut-on-contact, two-blade point which is razor sharp. Once you look past the initial point, you’ll find a first set of wing blades designed to cut straight through hide and the first set of ribs.
Once contact has been made, this first set of blades helps to deploy the second set of edges which don’t touch anything during initial penetration, instead opening only once inside the game, to wreak havoc on the animal’s internal organs. You won’t see too many animals make it more than 100 yards before coming to a halt.
On top of this, the Swhacker has a massive cutting diameter of 2 inches. Even if your aim is slightly off, you’re bound to hit a vital organ and bring your game down.
I found the broadhead to demonstrate solid penetration and durability, and I even found (impressively) that it could hang onto the target when tested at angles, too.
I’d use this happily on any small or medium-sized game over all distances. Find out more about the Swhacker brand and all their crossbow broadheads.
Pros
Great penetration from angles
Wide cutting diameter
Unique design
Cons
Accuracy: had strange outlier from grouping during testing which was so disappointing as I really liked this broadhead
>> Check Price on Amazon <<
G5 Outdoors Montec Fixed-blade Broadheads Review
Use on: medium to large-sized game over all distances
I would be happy to use these G5 Montec broadheads on deer, no problem. In fact, you could even make a case for use on bear and elk, as the blade angle of the Montec is designed for solid penetration, along with a thinner, more penetrative cutting diameter of 1 1/16 inches.
Despite a reduced wound channel, you’ll get a decent blood trail from heavy penetration which should easily make its way through the animal, especially over shorter distances.
Often overlooked, it’s a really simple broadhead to use – you just screw it on and shoot, and it also allows for easy sharpening, meaning you can get good (re)use out of it.
This was important, as I found that it could definitely do with a little more sharpening straight out of the box.
This 100% stainless steel broadhead is spin-tested to ensure the required weight and centricity to perform over long distances.
Use on: medium to large-sized game over all distances
I really like the Excalibur Boltcutter, in fact until I did all these recent tests it was (and maybe still will be) my fallback broadhead, whenever I wanted to feel 100% confident.
It’s got a 3-blade head with a small 1 1/16-inch diameter to maximize penetration at all distances; it’s deadly for the very biggest game out there.
It has been designed to improve accuracy over 300 FPS, stabilizing quickly as it leaves the bow.
It’s made of stainless steel to withstand high impacts and improve penetration, and it represents the perfect blend of strength, speed and accuracy.
It’s one drawback is that it costs a little more than most blades, but you can replace the individual blades, or even reuse the blades by sharpening the whole head to offset the cost and get more use out of them.
Pros
Optimized penetration
Enhanced accuracy over distances
withstands high impact
streamlined design
Cons
Expensive
>> Check Price on Amazon <<
Muzzy Trocar Fixed-blade Review
Use on: medium to large-sized game over all distances
The Muzzy Trocar is a three-blade fixed broadhead with a short stubby nose. The arrowhead has less surface area allowing for better arrow flight.
The hardened steel Trocar head-tip achieves extreme penetration, and the ferrule – built from solid steel – won’t buckle when striking bone, making it the perfect choice for large game.
It doesn’t compromise on accuracy either, thanks to the special right-helix design for solid stability; Muzzy claim they fly just like field tips, and from our experience with them, they aren’t wrong. When I tested it this broadhead achieved both the insane grouping, and massive penetration.
I like this broadhead because it’s completely customizable too. You can change the blade between three cutting diameters, between 1 inch and 1 1/14inches.
Pros
Best crossbow broadheads for accuracy
Best crossbow broadheads for penetration
Cons
N/A
>> Check Price on Amazon <<
Conclusion: the best crossbow broadheads
I found the level to be really high, and any misgivings that I had in the past about mechanical broadheads are slowly going away.
I’d even go so far as to recommend the Swhacker mechanical broadhead as the best crossbow broadheads for small game over any distance, with the Spitfire not far behind.
I liked the mechanical so much with small game because pretty much any hit with the two-inch cutting diameter would be enough to take down the animal, and the arrows would be forgiving thanks to their improved aerodynamicity.
There’s a good argument for the Swhacker or Spitfire moving up to medium-sized game like deer too. I think this is then a question of personal preference, where you should really try out both types and see what works with your crossbow specifications and personal needs.
When I moved up to large game, I decided that you can’t look any further than the Muzzy Trocar. It won hands down for penetration and accuracy, which for me are the two most important factors when shooting big game over any distance.
I get asked all the time what it is like to be a guide.
Some of the questions I get on a daily basis are, how do you do it day in and day out?
The other question is how can you fish every day and not get sick of it?
Another one is you must eat a lot of fish.
I’ve wanted to write this article for quite some time to explain why I do what I do, and why I absolutely love what I do. But I do have to admit, this job is definitely not for everyone.
The first thing I will talk about is my background and why I think guiding fits and works for me. The biggest thing I have is a passion for fishing. Without it, there is no way a person can be successful in this line of work.
To be honest, we as a guide a lot of time don’t get to fish all that much. Most of our time is trying to control the boat, rig lines, bait hooks, talk about what we are doing, etc. Don’t get me wrong, a lot of days we have to fish in order to figure out what the fish are doing and the mood the fish are in. It’s not as easy of a task as one might think.
The reason why guiding works for me is that I am a very goal-oriented person. Me playing hockey for a living did a few things for me. First, being challenged day in and day out to perform and to perform at a high level. You needed to be on top of things and you needed to be organized. The clock would mean nothing to me, other than what time I need to be somewhere. I was always early to everything we did in hockey and this is serving me well as a guide.
As a former professional hockey player, it also groomed me to work hard. I find so many situations each day with guiding that are so similar to playing hockey as a job. I think the biggest is the challenge to find and catch fish day in and day out.
I’ve told folks I don’t handle idle time all that well. So, for me, a schedule of getting up early to make sure the boat is ready to go each guided day is probably the best part of my job. I feel purpose, and my mind and body are busy.
Meeting new people can be a challenge for some. For me, hockey prepared me well for this. I love getting to know new folks if they are willing to talk. Some people are pretty reserved in the boat, and not all that easy to get to chat with. You learn to read people fast in this line of work! Especially if they are struggling to catch on to what the day is bringing as far as fishing goes.
If I’ve seen it once I have seen it a thousand times. If you have a husband and wife as clients. I can pretty much set my watch to the fact she will outfish him. Reason? Well, the wife will listen to me to a fault and the husband will try and reinvent the wheel.
Here are the deal folks, I put in your hands the best rods, lines, lure, etc. To help you catch fish. The stuff I have tied on is proven over and over in my boat or fish house to catch fish, and to catch fish consistently. One of my fellow guides says it best when he tells me he would never go to our client’s place of employment and tell them how to do their job.
Another thing we have going for us is we are literally a mobile fishing advertising billboard of sorts. I know a few bass stars and a few walleye anglers who get paid the big bucks when it comes to sponsorships. More power to those guys!
However, let’s be honest here, a fishing guide like myself logs well over 250 days on the water or on the ice working directly in front of people actually fishing. Not only do we have a captive audience in our boats, fish houses, and trucks, side by sides, but we are also very visible online, gas stations, boat ramps, fish cleaning stations, etc. If you want to know how a product works, how a product doesn’t work, how a truck pulls, or a boat handles the guides are my first stop every time I am in the market. The guides like myself use these things more than anyone! It’s not even a close second.
So, what are some of the hardest things about being a fishing guide? For me, the single most difficult part is the weather. We cannot control it! I wish I could turn the wind, rain, snow, heat, etc. Off, but that’s just not possible. So, we do get beat up on those days because of the weather. We end up having to fish on days most folks would be cuddled up on the couch with a blanket and the fire on. My dad gives me grief on those days, but I always fire back, you can’t catch a 30-incher on your lazy boy.
Another pressure-filled thing is high expectations. People only see the magazine cover shots of huge tables of fish, or a client holding a fish of a lifetime. We are all guilty of it as guides. Getting people into the reality of what to expect isn’t always easy to do. In fishing, both open water and frozen water hours are like years. Just because we crushed them yesterday, doesn’t mean it will happen today. Things change and things can change fast.
Days off? For me, there is no such thing. If I don’t have a guide trip scheduled, if weather permits, I’m out chasing the bite or looking for another bite. I tried to be a part-time guide, and that is extremely hard to keep your edge and do well day in and day out. It’s hard to roll onto a body of water and just put people on fish without being on the water daily. So being a full-time guide has helped me become a better guide and it’s for sure better for my clients. They are paying good money to get out on the water and catch fish. The scenery is always good but they could stay on shore and see that. So, for me, it’s so very important to be prepared and dialed in to give these customers a great day on the water.
Cleaning fish and eating fish. It’s natural to think I would eat just tons of fish every year. I honestly eat so very few it’s sad at times.
I really try not to keep extra fish for myself. I clean so many fish every year, the last thing I want to do is clean more for myself.
Another thought process for mine is conservation. Those 5 walleyes, 20 perch 5 pike are fish my clients might get a chance to enjoy the next day, or my kids to enjoy the next day. We as guides understand this, and we want fishing to remain solid for everyone for years to come.
The ND Game and Fish does a great job of monitoring this and if they feel stocking is required and or a lower limit, they will impose one. I feel okay cleaning a catch of fish for my clients to eat and or take home with them, because of this.
Crazy stories about clients on the water or ice? Well, I think for me I am going to save all of those for a book I want to write when I retire from guiding. The problem is, I may be 90 by the time I retire if I make it that long! So we will all have to wait and see!
Baked buffalo fish is juicy and flaky with wonderfully crispy skin. Flavorful cajun-seasoned fish is stuffed with parsley and topped with a lemon garlic butter sauce. This simple whole buffalo fish recipe looks impressive and serves as a wonderful light and delicious main dish!
Cooking a whole fish can seem intimidating but it’s actually very easy. This recipe will walk you through how to bake a whole fish so that it’s juicy and perfectly tender. Starting with a fish that is already gutted and scaled all you have to do is cover it in your favorite seasonings and then bake!
If you have never heard of buffalo fish before you might be thinking of buffalo chicken wings but using fish instead. But despite its name, buffalo fish is a type of freshwater fish.
Instead of covering it with a creamy buffalo sauce, in this easy recipe, a whole buffalo fish is stuffed with fresh parsley and lemon and then covered in a buttery cajun garlic sauce and lemon slices. It’s an impressive baked fish dinner that everyone will enjoy!
Whole buffalo fish. Fresh fish is incredibly flavorful and it has a wonderful texture. If you can’t get your hands on fresh, make sure to completely thaw before using.
Cajun seasoning. This bold, smoky, and flavorful spice blend is added to the butter sauce.
Lemon. Adds a bright citrus flavor to the fish. Lemon juice is poured over the fish and lemon slices are cooked on top.
Garlic cloves. Minced and added to the sauce to give the fish a bolder garlic flavor and aroma. It complements lemon and seafood very well.
A fresh sprig of thyme. Cooked on top of the fish.
Butter. Melted to create the cajun lemon garlic sauce and helps the skin become extra crispy.
Fresh parsley. Stuffed inside the fish cavity to flavor the inside.
How to make baked buffalo fish recipe
Its best to use fresh fish for this recipe. If you have a frozen buffalo fish, thaw it first. Its best to leave the fish in the refrigerator overnight or until thawed completely. You can also leave the fish on the counter for couples hours.
Remove scales and clean whole buffalo fish. Rinse very well with cold running water and place on the parchment paper lined baking tray. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit.
Meanwhile prepare your seasoning mix. Melt butter and mix it with Cajun spices, minced or finely chopped garlic and half of the lemon, juiced. Make slits in the fish and cover it with the butter mixture.
Add some inside the fish as well. Place parsley in the fish cavity along with leftover lemon slices. Place slices on top of the fish with thyme springs(optionally).
Bake for 30 minutes or more, depending on the size of the fish. The internal temperature of fully cooked fish should be at least 145 degrees.
What kind of fish is it
Buffalo fish or bigmouth buffalo is a type of fish and not only a cooking style. This freshwater fish is native to the rivers and streams of North America.
It is a large bottom-dwelling fish with greyish/brownish colored skin. Because of its size and shape buffalo fish is often confused with the common carp, but these are two different fish varieties.
While buffalo fish is not as common as other types of fish, it is a tasty whitefish known for its sweet flavor that’s both delicate and flavorful without being fishy tasting.
Because of its slightly firm texture, this fish holds up really well when grilled, baked, or stir-fried.
Substitutions
Buffalo fish. Catfish is a good substitute for buffalo fish.
Seasoning. Creole seasoning or Old Bay seasoning. You could also simply use a blend of cayenne pepper, smoked or regular paprika, black pepper, onion powder, and garlic powder.
Fresh herbs. Use whatever herbs you love! Sprigs of fresh rosemary, oregano, cilantro, or tarragon would taste amazing in this baked buffalo fish recipe.
Variations
If you want to make actual buffalo-style buffalo fish, cover fish fillets with buffalo sauce then bake until tender.
Roast with baby gold potatoes, fingerling potatoes, cherry tomatoes, asparagus, or onions to make a richly flavored and easy side dish.
Frequently asked questions
Side dishes
You can add zucchinis and cherry tomatoes to the baking tray to cook together with the fish. They will turn out lovely. If feeding a crowd cook some white or brown rice or potatoes. It could be roasted potatoes, mashed or scalloped. Or simply boiled with dill and butter- my favorite!
Make a fresh spring salad with romaine lettuce or arugula, kale, cherry tomatoes, onion and cucumbers. Drizzle olive oil and a little bit of balsamic vinegar and enjoy your healthy dinner!
Another great side dishes for white fish are broccoli, Brussels sprouts or asparagus. Perfect for late dinners and very healthy!
Leftovers
Store baked buffalo fish leftovers in the air tight container in the fridge for up to 5 days. Reheat in the microwave for about 1 minutes. Don’t overheat or it will overcook the fish and it may become dry. You can also reheat buffalo fish in the oven. It will take about 5 minutes to reheat with the temperature on 400 degrees Fahrenheit.
Or use you oven broiler! No time needed to preheat, just pop it in the oven and broil for couple minutes. Watch closely, it may burn fast.
More seafood recipes
Ninja Foodi cod recipe
Argentinian shrimp recipe
Air fryer haddock
Air fryer stuffed salmon
Cuttlefish recipe
Whole catfish recipe
Air fryer frozen cod
Ninja Foodi frozen salmon
Baked shrimp oreganata
John Dory recipe
Hope you will like this Baked Buffalo fish recipe as much as we do. Rate the recipe if you like it and leave a comment below if you have any questions or suggestions.
Shed hunting Michigan is tough, but it can be done.
As I walked past my treestand over to the puddle of standing water in the forest, I glimpsed what looked like tines poking out of the standing water. As I came closer, it immediately became apparent from the milky white coloration and the layout that I was looking at a brow tine, G2, and G3 just barely breaking the surface. Had the water been any higher, I might have missed seeing the shed antler completely.
After using a stick to pull the small 4-point side out of the water, I stood up, glanced to the side, and immediately felt dumb. The matching side was also laying in the water only about six feet away, and I hadn’t spotted it until then.
The tines were sticking barely half an inch above the shallow water’s surface. It was my second matched set of the year.
It also just goes to show that looking for deer antlers in Michigan can be much harder than other parts of the country. These antlers easily could have been lost to time. As soon as the rains that accompany this time of year come, the antlers would be submerged completely, and quickly hidden by dead leaf litter in that swampy area.
After more than 25 years of looking for shed antlers in Michigan, I’ve discovered many of the tips and techniques that are good for other states don’t always translate to the Great Lakes State. Fortunately, I learned how to shed hunt this state the hard way. Now you won’t have to do the same. This is how I find shed antlers every year in Michigan.
In my experience, most Michigan bucks seem to start shedding their antlers around the second week of February. Many are completely shed out by March. The earliest in the year I’ve found a shed is mid-January. There are always outliers to these times though. I’ve gotten trail camera photos of bucks holding their antlers into late April here before. The factors that affect when deer shed their antlers are going to be different for each animal based on the animal’s health, testosterone levels, and other factors. Although it does seem like more bucks shed earlier the more severe the winter. As much as I hate long, lingering snows, those kinds of winters always leave me rubbing my palms together in anticipation. Mainly because it seems to concentrate where bucks shed their antlers more than a mild winter, but we’ll talk more about that later.
I should also note that you shouldn’t believe the myth that all antlers get completely chewed up if you don’t hurry. I’ve found shed antlers in Michigan in July and even September before. I will note that on private lands in Michigan, it helps a lot if you can hold off searching until March. On public lands that isn’t always an option because of the competition of course. In my experience, the less pressure on the deer the better, especially if you have exclusive rights to shed hunt a spot.
Think small when searching.
It’s easy to get excited scrolling through Instagram and seeing people piling up the big antlers in Iowa, Illinois, and other states of the Midwest. However, we need to temper expectations in Michigan a little.
Let’s be honest; our deer management is not great here. Most whitetail deer do not live to see their second birthday, especially the yearling bucks. You can thank our overly-long deer hunting seasons and bag limits that may be a little too generous. But I digress. The point is, if you go out looking for a sun-bleached 5-point side, odds are you’re not going to find it here in Michigan. Unfortunately, I think that’s why a lot of Michigan shed hunters get discouraged.
I finally found my first 5-point side this year and it took me nearly 25 years to do that. I’ve found antlers every year for the last decade, but it took that long to find a 5-point. It’s just not easy to find the big ones here.
Speaking of tempering expectations, you also shouldn’t expect to find a ton of antlers in Michigan, not without a ton of walking anyway. My record for a year is 11 and I’ve done that twice. Most years I’m finding around five at the most. They’re not easy to find in this state!
Finding sheds in Michigan requires more patience and persistence than it does in other states, and calls for a commitment to looking for smaller antlers. I’ve found more fork horns than any other type of antler.
There’s a lot to explain that we won’t get deep into, but it’s important to “train your eyes” to look for sheds. And once you do that, you need to commit to only looking for a tiny bit of antler at a time. I’m usually watching for only a few inches of bone. I probably spot more antlers by looking for the curvature of the main beam than anything else.
Unless you’re a natural, it takes time to train yourself to do this. For more detail on training and conditioning your eyes, check out this previous piece on the subject. Learn from those tips, and read on for more Michigan-specific pointers.
Where deer shed in Michigan.
If I had to estimate, I would guess I’ve found approximately 70% of my Michigan sheds in feeding areas or tall grass cover over the years, especially after a winter with snow that stays on the ground for weeks at a time. Winters like that help to concentrate the deer in one area and bucks will spend an inordinate amount of time restoring their fat reserves which were exhausted during the rut.
My second favorite spots to look are bedding areas, especially the ones on south-facing slopes. I should note that while I have found antlers while grid-searching bedding areas, they are not usually the areas that pan out best for me. This goes against a lot of the advice you’ll read in most shed hunting articles, but I cannot deny my own results favoring feeding and transition tall grass over bedding areas over the years.
Many Michigan hunters, including myself, spent years convinced that all bucks in this state drop their antlers in the thick cover where it’s hard to walk ten feet without bending over or brushing through thorns. I can count on one hand the number of sheds I’ve found in thickets like those. Not only is it hard to search, it’s also not usually the place bucks frequent during the winter months. Once the hunting season is over, they know the pressure is off, and they tend to let their guard down a little. They’ll start wandering closer to the food and in more open areas when the snows arrive.
Most hunters think because crop fields and food plots are usually more open, they can cover these areas quickly and move on. As a result, they walk right past antlers they should have found had they taken the time to slowly and properly grid-search the area. One of the worst pieces of shed antler hunting advice I ever read about was to use a four-wheeler to cover ground quickly. I did this for years without finding a single shed. I’m convinced now it’s because I was going much too fast. I shudder to think of how many antlers I’ve missed over the years due to improper search techniques.
Another prime area to search is the cover immediately surrounding food sources. Michigan deer are under a ridiculous amount of pressure during deer season. In some areas, the seasons stretch into January, well after the first snow and cold temperatures. At that point in late winter, most bucks are worn down after the rut and they just want to eat. However, they’re not stupid about it. They still like to stage up along the edges of these food sources and scope the food plot or field out before they head out.
I’ve also seen too many shed hunters in Michigan waste time randomly following heavy deer trails through the woods. I usually only start checking the trails closely when I’ve exhausted the bedding areas, feeding areas, and grassy cover.
Even then, one big thing I’ve noticed over the years is that the big bucks are rarely using the heaviest of trails. A lot of those tracks are does and fawns. Many bucks, especially the older ones, seem to take lighter trails running parallel to those, especially if there’s more cover.
Don’t forget about water. Last September I found a small three-pointer ten yards inside the woods off a public Lake Michigan beach in the Upper Peninsula. That find came after I found a 110-inch matched set from a big 7-point while kayaking a river in July. The 4-point side was what caught my eye when I spotted it laying on the bank. The 3-point match was sitting in the river itself right next to it. If there’s a pond or river running through the area you shed hunt, you owe it to yourself to check the shores of it closely. Don’t forget to look IN the water too. Case in point: my submerged pair mentioned earlier.
Other things to keep in mind.
The biggest thing I’ve learned about Michigan deer over the years is that they don’t behave like the majority of other deer. The animals here receive so much pressure from deer hunters that there is often little rhyme or reason to many of their behaviors. Many articles will tell you not to look for sheds in the same places where you had a sighting during deer season. However, Michigan deer usually don’t follow those rules. If an area provides food, water, and cover, many bucks are content to stick to the same area all season. This is especially true of areas that receive little hunting pressure.
Although you should also be aware many Michigan bucks will also sometimes roam a larger-than-normal area than other states. Case in point: I’ve found sheds from bucks I watched all season before, but I also sometimes find random sheds from deer I later learned were photographed most of year three to five miles away. You’re more likely to find those roamers during a mild winter when bucks aren’t stressed about finding food. Most hunters associate a buck’s wanderlust with seeking out does during the rut, but some will continue wandering well after the rut is over.
The bigger point is that sheds can be found almost everywhere in Michigan. If you’ve exhausted the obvious spots, it’s time to move to the less obvious ones. Think way outside the box. The biggest shed I’ve ever found was from an urban buck. I found that 65+ inch, four-point side in a tiny patch of woods behind a movie theater. The antler was laying less than thirty yards from a heavily-used bike path and forty yards from a road! Michigan bucks are extremely smart and will seek sanctuary wherever they can find it sometimes. Shed hunters who are successful here year in and year out know how to find these honey holes.
Most of all, I encourage anyone interested in shed hunting to not give up no matter where they’re searching. It takes time and patience to find antlers in Michigan. However, if I can pull it off year after year, I’m convinced anyone can at this point. Get out there and burn some boot leather, and you may be surprised at what you find.
For more outdoor content from Travis Smola, be sure to follow him on Twitter and Instagram For original videos, check out his Geocaching and Outdoors with Travis YouTube channels.
READ MORE: 7 SHED HUNTING TIPS FOR THOSE WHO JUST CAN’T SEEM TO FIND THEM
What’s that wild vine on tree? Are those grapes?! Wild grapes are closely related to table grapes and easy to identify for beginning foragers. In this post I’ll tell you everything you need to know about identifying, harvesting, and cooking with all their edible parts.
Wild grapes are the first wild fruit I ever picked, tasted, and really enjoyed cooking with. I first read about my local riverbank grape (Vitis riparia) that grow in the Midwest in the book The Forager’s Harvest by Samuel Thayer.
This post focuses on Vitis riparia-the most common wild grape in North America. Vitis aestivalis, the summer grape, I see occasionally but is not as common. There’s many other plants in the grape family you might find, like the fox grape and Oregon grape. Any edible wild grape can be used as I describe here.
The plants appear as spreading, woody vines with heart-shaped, lobed leaves. They climb trees and other plants to photosynthesize. Once you know them, you’ll be able to spot them at a distance from anywhere.
Key ID Points
The tough leaves have toothed edges with raised veins on the underside.
Very young leaves are light yellow-green.
Mature leaves are darker green. Each vine has small, young tendrils at the edge.
Leaves can vary drastically in size with some varieties.
The bark peels off in strips on the branches of older grape vines.
Wild Grape Look Alikes
There’s a few look alikes beginners should be aware of. The two most common I see are Canada moonseed and Virginia creeper. False grape (Ampelopsis sp.) is also a look alike but I don’t see it often, and it’s harmless if consumed on accident.
Canada Moonseed (Menispermum canadense)
Canada moonseed is also a vine, and could be mistaken for wild grapes at a distance. This is the only, real poisonous wild grape look alike I know of.
Canada Moonseed vs Wild Grape
Here’s a few key points on how to separate them from grapes:
Canada Moonseed:
Lacks teeth on the leaf margins
Is often noticeably paler green color, especially when young.
The stems are thinner and more delicate than grape vines.
Canada moonseed vines spiral around their support, while grapes do not.
The fruit contains a single crescent-shaped seed. Grapes have round seeds.
The fruit isn’t nearly as bountiful as grapes and doesn’t grow in tight clusters.
Virginia Creeper / Woodbine
Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia) is a common, aggressive growing vine. It’s the most common wild grape look alike I get messages about. The plant has palmately compound leaves made up of five serrated leaflets.
Virginia creeper fruit doesn’t grow in clusters like grapes. An easy way to separate it from grape plants is the berries fruit on red stems. The fruit tastes bad, but is harmless.
Habitat
Wild grapes grow just about anywhere. I see them creeping up yards and fences, climbing trees, and around the edges of forests. As the name implies (river grape) they also love to grow along rivers and streams.
My grandmother has a wild grape vine that has grown up her trellises on the side of their deck, and their friends come every year to pick the grapes and make wild grape wine.
Some grape varieties can make massive leaves.
When to Harvest Wild Grapes
Grape harvest season is generally around mid-late August, but my harvest plan begins much earlier. If you’re out foraging during the growing season, it’s easy to see where the grapes will be fruiting heavy. Make a note of spots you see during the year and come back when they’re ready.
When the grapes are ripe and deep purple (preferably without any unripe green grapes), cut off whole clusters with a scissors and put them in a box or other container.
I never bother to harvest grapes after a frost, as some recommend as, by the time the frosts come, our Midwest grapes will be dried out.
How to Make Wild Grape Juice
Once I bring the grapes home, I try to process them into juice quickly so they don’t dry out in the fridge. Here’s what I do:
Take the grapes, stems and all, making sure they’re clean and free of grit (taste a few to make sure and wash if you need/want) and put them in a large pot. Next, I mash the grapes up with a potato masher, mixing it around here and there to make sure I’m getting grapes from the bottom.
When the grapes are mashed up and juicy, I add some water, just enough to make sure that the grapes are completely covered by an inch or so of juice. The reason for the water is that wild grape juice is very thick, and a little extra liquid will make processing much easier-it will not dilute the strong flavor of your wild grape juice.
After the grapes are mashed up and I’ve added the water, I put the pot on the stove and allow it to get hot enough to steam. Don’t bring the pot to a boil, you just want to get it warm as it makes the juice relax and will help it go through a strainer, which will give you the highest yield possible.
I carefully dump the grape juice and skins into a colander in a large bowl, allow it to drain, then I remove the leftover skins and stems, allow them to cool until I can handle them, then wring out the juice.
Typically I use cheesecloth to wring out the juice, but you can do it by hand if you have to. This can be a messy process, and you’ll see in the video at the end of this post that I do it in a garage.
From here I strain the thick juice one more time through a fine strainer. The finished grape juice can be frozen, or processed into things like jelly or wild grape reduction, etc. You can use raw grape juice pressed from the fruit, but you’ll get a lot less juice, and it’s very strong.
Safety Note: Tartaric Acid
Wild grape juice isn’t something to drink as-is, since it’s very tart and thick. I can’t drink the juice raw at all, as my tongue is sensitive to it, and I know others that share my sensitivity.
The most important thing to know is the juice contains tartaric acid and calcium oxalate crystals that can cause loose bowels when consumed.
Thankfully it’s easy to remove the oxalate and tartaric acid as they settle to the bottom of the container after cooking and juicing. Let the juice settle overnight, then pour off the grape juice, discarding any sediment at the bottom.
What to Make with Wild Grapes
There’s lots of things you can do with your grape juice, as well as the edible grape leaves. Here’s a few examples.
Homemade Grape Vinegar
There’s still goodness left in those wild grape stems, skins and pits, and while you could pour some water over them, mix them up, and strain it to get a weak juice.
I prefer to use the leftover mash to make homemade vinegar that I use instead of red wine vinegar. It’s fantastic. See the full recipe with proportions for fruit scrap vinegar here.
A Red Wine Substitute
The finished juice is perfect for wine, jams and jellies, but there’s lots of other things you can do with it too. I use wild grape juice for all purpose cooking in recipes that call for red wine.
I also make a reduction from it you can use similarly to saba or balsamic vinegar reduction-a sort of wild grape molasses inspired by a traditional fruit juice reduction called pekmez from Turkey (typically made with mulberries).
Stuffed Grape Leaves
Wild grape leaves are essentially the same grape leaves sold in many stores, but it did take me a couple years and dating a Greek woman to figure it out.
Grape leaves should be harvested while you’re checking on grapes growing throughout the season. Once the grapes are ready, a lot of the leaves will be past-prime. I can collect hundreds of leaves from a single vine or two in an hour if I’m working quickly.
Fermented grape leaves are edible and fantastic for their most traditional use: stuffing. Since they’re tough, tannic and sour, you’re not going to be making a salad out of them, although I’ve had some preparations where the leaves are pickled or fermented and then cut into pieces and used in dishes.
Fermented grape leaves are traditionally used for stuffing (dolma, dolmathes, dolmades, etc) and it’s hard to find a better way to enjoy the leaves.
If you’ve ever had commercially pickled grape leaves, they can be very strong on the vinegar, and I know plenty of people that don’t care for them. Foraged grape leaves you pick yourself though, are a blank canvas for whatever flavor you like. See my recipe for fermented grape leaves.
Grape Tendrils
These are small, but fun if you have some grape vines growing in the house or around the backyard. The young, tender tendrils/tips of grape vines are nice and tart, and add a great taste to salads. Try them!
Wild Grape Jelly
Foraged grape jelly is one of the best you’ll ever have. It’s the grown up version of what you put on a peanut butter and jelly sandwich, but with a flavor beyond comparison of the watered-down jelly in stores. It’s easy to make, and I often don’t even use pectin as the seeds are naturally high in it.
Take care, beware and stare at my snood if you dare!
Turkeys are unique: I cannot think of any other creature on this planet with a dangling piece of flesh that: changes colors, shrinks or lengthens depending upon stimuli of anger or excitement.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Snood_(anatomy)
From Wikipedia:
“the snood is an erectile, fleshy protuberance on the forehead of turkeys. Most of the time when the turkey is in a relaxed state, the snood is pale and 2-3 cm long. However, when the male begins strutting (the courtship display), the snood engorges with blood, becomes redder and elongates several centimeters, hanging well below the beak”
“The snood functions in both intersexual and intrasexual selection. Captive female wild turkeys prefer to mate with long-snooded males, and during dyadic interactions, male turkeys defer to males with relatively longer snoods. These results were demonstrated using both live males and controlled artificial models of males”
Actually, I have my doubts about that entire second Wikipedia paragraph. I suppose some test some where had those results however….
Common sense and my observation shows the male turkeys defer to- and female turkeys swoon to- the current reigning flock Alpha male. (Alpha male status is always tenuous)
Fighting skills: 99.92% determines whom the hens swoon for. My observation is that Snood length plays an infinitesimal small part in the reproductive process.
Yet, there is a natural selection process at work.
Evidently at least some of the hens prefer a long snood. – a selection that allows the Snood to grow and contract as needed, despite the beatings the snoods take during battle.
A dangling snood is a liability.
Turkey hens also have snoods-smaller versions of the male snood.
Hen snood injury from fighting
And….. A dangling snood, be it a tom or hen is still a liability.
This hen lost her fight for female alpha status and the hen that bested her had clamped down on her snood making it black and blue. Full snood recovery.
Could the snood be a remnant of the age of Dinosaurs?
Latest Study Anseriformes and Galliformes (above) originated in the late Cretaceous
Snood in battle……a thing hanging the way…
Flying snoods!
“Talkin to me?”
Photo of a snood at night. No outside stimulus to make the snood grow.
(Snoods have to rest)
Snood at Florida dawn
And now for a Quick story. I have mentioned the dangling snood is a liability.
I came home one day to find my Eastern wild Tom, with his snood swollen to the size of a banana and his bumpy head twice the normal size. What the heck?
Upon close examination, I discovered fang marks in the “banana” where a pigmy rattlesnake (Sistrurus millarius) had bitten the snood. The Tom was sick for about two weeks, made a full recovery, however his snood was always crooked after that. He lived for another five years. (no photos of that two weeks)
Florida snakes
Odd bit of information: The Ocellated turkey has a blue snood, instead of the normal red.
As the annual December turkey battles heat up, this Royal Palm Tom has his own snood in his mouth, crunching down causing excruciating pain to his rival.
Or something like that..
Video clip of “Turkey Rebellion against Thanksgiving” and snoods in the way!
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Around 90% of users recommend the air rifle due to its accuracy.
The reviews reveal that the air rifle has extreme accuracy for shooting and hunting.
Ian with Terry Tate from Team Wild used Benjamin Marauder for their hog-hunting trip in the video below:
Many shooters are even considering extending their backyard area to make full use of the rifle’s attributes.
Moreover, those who are first-time users also find the air rifle very user-friendly and reliable.
In addition to this, the Marauder is being lauded by ex-armed forces members.
Moreover, the customers are very appreciative of the price, which is very low for the features provided.
Key Features
One of the quietest air rifles
Outstanding accuracy
Inexpensive magazines
Transfer port and hammer spring allow for adjustment of the power
Accessories such as regulators, barrels, and air reservoirs are readily available on the market
Best for shooters and hunters
Reasonable price
Sleek hardwood stock
Attractive appearance
Conclusion
With outstanding accuracy, reliable performance, and reasonable price, the Benjamin Marauder is the perfect choice for shooters and hunters who don’t want to spend the likes of $1000.
HatsanBullboss QE is known for its reasonable price, so if you’re not too tight on the budget, it might be a great gun for you.
Customer Reviews
The feedback of the customers for the Bullboss is mixed.
Some recommend it, while others have actually returned the HatsanBullboss QE.
Many users, however, do like the air rifle for its exceptional accuracy.
Moreover, the use of the trigger has also been appreciated as the trigger is much smoother.
Finally, the shooting range has been widely lauded.
In addition to this, shooters do have some complaints as well.
For example, they recommend not using the gun unless it is empty.
Due to the higher price, it might not sell as well as Benjamin Marauder.
The accuracy is commendable, but customers actually find it to be the best bullpup air rifle.
Key Features
Excellent accuracy
Quietness
Smooth trigger
2-stage Quattro Trigger System
Hardwood stock
Ventilated rubber butt pad
Conclusion
The above-mentioned description reveals that the Hatsan Bullboss QE is one of the best hunting air rifles under $1000, for users who need an accurate air rifle with useful features.
You can see the price is not so low, but it is reasonable given the features and performance.
Unlike our first air rifle, the HatsanBullboss QE does have some undeniable flaws.
Therefore, if you wish to buy an air rifle that is accurate, good-looking, less noisy and you do not care much about the price.
Moreover, being synthetic, it’s one of the lightest best long-range rifles under $1000.
Therefore, for shooters who wish to have an enjoyable time in their backyard on weekends, the Airforce condor is a great option, as long as the noise isn’t an issue for you.
Additionally, most game hunters are satisfied with the performance, and also safety as well as power and accuracy.
Key Features
Exceptional Accuracy
Loud
Light in weight, therefore easy to use
Lifetime warranty
Highly adjustable power wheel
Lothar Walther barrel
Maximum velocity is 1150 fps
Conclusion
A serious air rifle for the serious shooter!
It is one of the best hunting rifles under $1000 in 2021.
"Debate over whether a 22 air rifle can effectively take down a deer has sparked curiosity among hunting enthusiasts. With its lower muzzle velocity...
