The most common confused questions I hear on identification are about elderberries and the water hemlock. Had I not students such a confusion would have never occurred to me as to me the two species don’t look alike at all. Generally said elderberry fruit is edible, the entire water hemlock is deadly. Indeed, many call water hemlock the most deadly plant in North America. Learning to identify the two is very important.

The Elderberry, Sambucus canadensis, is a shrub with bark, to ten feet or more. Woody. Its blossom is a dense flattop. It produces, locally, black berries about BB size. It has opposite compound leaves, feathery. Most of the veins on the leaf either fade after leaving the midrib or terminate at the tip of the teeth, not in the notches. If you have a #10 magnifying glass you can see tiny veins terminating at the tips of the teeth. Occasionally an elderberry vein will terminate at a notch, but it is uncommon.

The Water Hemlock is herbaceous, two to seven feet. It has a green main stem with purple splotches, or is entirely dusky purple particularly when young. The sectioned, hollow stem has vertical grooves on the outside. It produces a fire cracker-like explosion white blossom that made up of many smaller umbrella-like blossoms. Those produce seeds, not fruit. It has alternating, compound leaves, coarse, toothy. On individual leaves most, not all, but most of the veins clearly terminate between the teeth, in the notches.

Let’s also talk about habitat. Both elderberries and water hemlock are associated with water. But there are some differences: Elderberries can tolerate more dry areas and Water Hemlock can grow in water. If you are in a dry area that is dry most of the time and you think you have one or the other it will probably be an elderberry. If you have damp ground it can be either. If it is standing water most of the time it will probably be water hemlock. Season also counts. Elderberries are year round locally. Water Hemlock can die back in the winter.

Now a closer look: Elderberries are shrubs. They are woody. They have bark. The bark is green and smooth when very young with occasional white dots that are actually lenticels, which is one way the plant exchanges gasses. With time and height the elderberry develops a familiar looking bark, smooth and brown. Now the lenticels are corky lumps seen at left. On much older plants the bark will become vertically furrowed. The inner core of the trunk and branches — the pith — is soft and can be easily reamed out. Not a long-lived plant, just a few years, it can grow to about four inches through. When it dies and dries it leaves a vertical standing small dead tree. The dead wood breaks easily and burns well.

The Water Hemlock is herbaceous, read not woody. It does not have bark. It has nodes, which are swellings where leaves attach or used to attach. The main stem has vertical groves in it and is hollow. It is often streaked with purple, or is splotched with purple. It is usually at least purple at the nodes and sometimes young plants can be entirely dusky purple. Ocassionally the entire older plant will be purple. A stem that is an inch through would be a large water hemlock. The plant is hairless. When crushed it can have a pleasant liquorish or anise scent, or it can also smell like mouse urine. Remember it is deadly and can kill in virtually minutes. The toxicity decreases vertically with the roots the most toxic and the seeds the least. Taste is not a warning sign in that those who have eaten the roots raw or cooked said they were flavorful and very enjoyable. Depending upon the size of the individual, the amount consumed and which parts consumed death will occur in 15 minutes to a little over two hours. This is not the hemlock given to Socrates which was a gentle species. This species produces severe pain and convulsions, torturing its victim horribly until death.

The leaves of both species are different, not only from a distance but close up as well. The veins of the elderberry leaf either fade as they reach the edge of the leaf or terminate at the tip of the teeth. You may need a small magnifying class to see that. The veins are most prominent as they leave the light-colored midrib. Also note that the teeth are quite small, like the edge of a small serrated steak knife.

The veins of the water hemlock are quite different. The veins of the water hemlock clearly terminate BETWEEN the larger teeth of the leaf. See arrows to right. There is no ambiguity. The veins end between the teeth. Even when a vein splits the split ends go to the notches, not to the tips of the leaf. There may be an occasional exception but the trend of the majority is very clear. You will note that while each species’ leaf has an acute tip (pointed) the elderberry leaf is round near the tip whereas the water hemlock leaf is not.

The elderberry is not without its dangers as well. The wood is toxic and has poisoned folks who have made whistles out of the green wood. Unripe elderberry fruit is toxic and the ripe fruit bothers some people. The ripe fruit is better used dried, cooked or made into wine or jelly than consumed raw.

Lastly, the “hemlock” tree is a totally different species and issue. To read more about different colored elderberries, click here.

Advances in fishing electronics have been moving forward by leaps and bounds in the past few decades. Keeping up with technological innovations is a challenge, even for a techno-junkie such as myself. Sonar, imaging, and GPS have given anglers unparalleled access to what is going on below the surface of the water. However, a decade spent selling fish finders in the retail business taught me a few things. One, many anglers struggle with understanding the different features of modern fishing electronics. Secondly, many anglers are paying for features they simply don’t need or use. If you are buying your first fish finder or looking to upgrade here is a quick course on the features you might look for.

How It Works: Sonar

The majority of anglers rely on sonar. Whether you spend the majority of your time trolling open water or hovering over structure you will find sonar useful. Sonar is useful for identifying your depth, locating fish quickly, identifying the depth of fish, and can provide information on the types of bottom substrate beneath your watercraft. Sonar works by generating a signal that travels outward from your transducer in a cone shape. The signal reflects off surfaces and travels back to the transducer. Your fish finder then translates those reflections into a visual representation. Harder surfaces, such as rock, will reflect more signals than soft surfaces, such as vegetation. The hardness of a surface reflection is often represented by a color gradient that you determine on your fish finder’s settings. Using the color and shape of the return an angler can interpret what the benthic or bottom structure of the lake or river they are fishing looks like. Sonar signals bounce strongly off of air which is why fish with large air bladders show up extremely well on fish finders.

Most modern fish finders broadcast in alternating low and high frequencies. Lower frequencies produce a narrower cone that better penetrates deeper water whereas higher frequencies produce a wider cone that is better at resolving fish and structure in shallow water. Many fish finders will automatically use the best frequency depending on your depth or will cycle back and forth to generate the best signal. However, anglers can select particular frequencies that best suit their fishery and may even opt to buy transducers specific to the types of fishing they do. However, sonar does have several weaknesses. First, due to the narrowness of the signal cone, it is very poor at detecting fish shallow and under your watercraft. Secondly, because it is compressing a three-dimensional cone into a single dimension it is very difficult to separate fish from structure or multiple fish or bait fish from each other. Lastly, learning to interpret sonar output takes time and can be especially challenging for color-blind individuals.

How It Works: Down and Side Imaging

For those anglers that fish structure, whether that be brush piles, weed beds, or rocky reefs, you will find imaging useful. Imaging fills the gaps in sonar’s weaknesses. Unlike sonar, imaging is generated by your transducer generating a razor-thin high-frequency signal. These imaging frequencies can be directed downward, for down imaging, or out to the side, for side imaging. This data is then used to generate detailed and lifelike images of the structure below or off to the side of your watercraft. Unlike sonar images which can be very nebulous and confusing, especially around layered structure, imaging results are much easier to interpret. A tree looks like a tree and rocks look like rocks and so on. Additionally, fish can be separated from structure much more easily.

Imaging uses a high frequency and thus has limitations in deep water applications. In general, I find it most useful down or out to 100’. If you spend a lot of time targeting structure directly under your boat then you will find down imaging especially useful. Side imaging is useful in quickly locating structure off to the side of your watercraft and measured distances on your fish finder unit will allow you to cast at those targets. I’ve also found side imaging to be helpful in locating schools of suspended fish off to the sides of the kayak when trolling in open water.

How It Works: GPS-Enabled Fish Finders

GPS-enabled fish finders provide a wealth of information to any angler. Coupled with bathymetric depth maps GPS allows you to identify and navigate to potential fish-holding areas. Waypoints and tracks of your movements can be saved for future reference as well. Additionally, many fish finders like the Humminbird Helix have advanced features such as Autochart Live that allow anglers to build custom detailed maps of their local body of water. For anglers that troll GPS units provide real-time troll speeds. Finally, GPS can assist in safe navigation to and from your favorite fishing spots.

Advanced Fish Finder Features to Look For

In just the past few years, even more advanced fish-finding features have emerged. These include Humminbird’s 360 imaging which gives you complete imaging all around the watercraft. Additionally, live sonar and live imaging are now available on many fish finders. Live sonar/imaging gives you real-time direction target separation and you can watch fish chase your lure or bait and in some instances you can identify fish species by shape. These advanced features require specialized transducers and cost more but when used correctly can help put more fish in the boat.

Fly fishing in the winter can be challenging but, also, highly rewarding. Most people do not venture outside their homes so winter fly fishing keeps the crowds away, and often times you’ll have the water all to yourself.

Generally speaking, trout are a smidge sluggish in the winter as they become less active in, literally, wader freezing temperatures. In certain small streams, we don’t recommend that you fly fish in the winter because it only adds further stress to fish that have not recovered from the summer and spawning season. However, if you know that the stream holds a high abundance of food sources then go for it!

Streams fed by springs and reserviors usually means a constant and stable water temperature that provides a healthy environment for large insect populations.

Table Of Contents

• Winter Strategies & Tips
• Midge Flies
• Egg Flies
• Blue-Winged Olive Flies
• Aquatic Worms
• Scuds & Sowbugs
• Streamer Flies
• How to use weight in the winter to catch more fish.

If you were to fly fish during the winter, here are our top 15 winter trout flies followed by our best tips and advice:

Midge Flies

When growing up, trout are always reminded by their cannibalistic parents to “eat your midges because they will make you big and strong.” Midges are, basically, the most important source of food for trout. In fact, midges are the bulk of a trout’s diet November thru February. Midges are a major food source year-round for trout.

They hatch in freezing temperatures and hatch by the thousands. Basically cockroaches. When aquatic insects are less inactive in the winter, opportunistic trout key in on drifting midge larvae. Because midges mature and develop year-round, trout depend on them for easy pick’ins.

Here are just a few of our favorite midge flies we recommend fly fishing for trout in the winter.

Griffith’s Gnat

Typically, you’ll find swarms of these guys over slack water. Be sure to use a light tippet and target the slow-moving water following a pool.

Tungsten Rainbow Warrior Midge

One of the most successful searching fly patterns for trout, the Tungsten Rainbow Warrior Midge fly pattern combines a tungsten bead with a bit of flash to produce spectacular results.

Zebra Midge

Zebra Midge flies have been around for decades and for good reason — they catch fish. We love incorporating the Zebra Midge within our nymphing rigs as the first nymph followed by a heavier tungsten beaded fly. Midge larva can be found in nearly every level of the water column at all times so we make sure to keep a good variety of this pattern in our boxes. Across the board, it is a reliable trout fly in streams, rivers, and stillwater.

JuJu Baetis Flashback

Technically, this is considered a mayfly nymph pattern but it easily doubles as a perfect midge imitation. This lightweight midge larva pattern is another wet fly we recommend for our nymphing rigs. While you can fish this fly near the bottom with great success, it is best fished near the surface in slack water. On some days, you may be able to visibility see trout feeding close to the surface and sipping adult midges on the top. A great tactic would be to drop the JuJu Bee off the back of a dry fly pattern and cast to trout feeding both off the top and just below the surface.

Use A Two-Fly Nymph Rig

The Two-Fly Nymph Rig is an important technique that not only helps present subsurface flies better but also improves your chances. Well, sure, with an extra fly in the water you have a higher probability of catching a trout, but let’s not make this into a numbers game. Trout don’t know numbers. It comes down to the presentation of each individual fly. Trout will only move a few inches to eat an insect so you have to make sure that your fly is presented within those few inches.

With the Two-Fly Nymph Rig, both flies work together to get down into those narrow feeding lanes. The heavier larva/nymph pattern pulling the lighter emerger/pupa down.

Eggs Flies

October thru December, brown and brook trout spawn. During this time, opportunistic trout will lie downstream of the reproductive activity for drifting egg clusters. CAUTION: Please do not target trout on a redd. Redd is the spawning bed and is characterized by turned over gravel (usually bright). Please leave these trout alone so we can expect future generations as they are making more trout.

Great Searching Patterns:

Beaded Egg Fly

This fly is extremely effective during the spawning season in heavily stocked streams. Fish this fly downstream of the spawning area to awaiting trout. Although, during an abundant midge or baetis hatch, these will often be ignored.

Beadhead Veiled Cabalerro

The two-toned body with a thin outer “shell” will blend together perfectly in the water to make a realistic offering that trout will find irresistible.

Baetis (Blue Winged Olive)

Baetis (BWO) nymphs are one of the most common nymphs across the United States. During the winter months, you may find BWO’s hatching during a few days of warmer temperatures.

BWO Foam Para Emerger

Foam emergers are great for selective trout, which is great for the winter because most of the activity is found in slower, slack water. These look great with the tapered segmented body and have an amazing profile from nearly every angle. Foam para emergers also sit low in the surface-film, just like the naturals. We love using these blue-winged olive flies in the winter in particularly small sizes and often adding more than one dry fly — a multi-dry fly rig.

Dirty Hipster

This barbless euro nymph is scattered across our entire site and recommended everywhere, and that is for good reason. It catches fish. In this particular case, the olive variation in small sizes is a fantastic blue-winged olive nymph pattern. You can use this however you like but, for us, we like to fish this under a small indicator with smaller midge nymphs tied in above it.

Beaded Soft Hackled Hare’s Ear

This is a variation of the classic Hare’s Ear nymph pattern you commonly know. Tied as a soft hackle, the Partridge Hare’s Ear fly pulsates and moves just like how emerging nymphs wiggle and squirm on their way up to the surface. On the other hand, you can also add a non-beaded version of the Hare’s Ear Soft Hackle into the top of your nymphing rigs or off the back of a dry fly.

WD40 Emerger

WD40 flies are fantastic un-weighted patterns that we fish anywhere in our nymphing rig. You can add it to the top, off a dry fly, or trailing off a heavier nymph, but as long as you have it in the water it works wonders.

Aquatic Worms

Aquatic worms are totally natural and are a select part of a trout’s diet. They are found in sediment on the stream bed and are constant year-round. We prefer the Squirmy Wormy over the San Juan Worm because its flexible body provides more motion. They may not be as durable, but when winter fly fishing gets tough, you call in the big guns. When scouting for trout we use flashy patterns like this to see if fish respond. Once trout become more selective, we switch to more natural-looking patterns like the Pheasant Tail.

Improved Squirmy Wormy

Squirmy Wormy flies are great — they wiggle and squirm like no other worm fly and catch fish like crazy — but the durability of the material they are made from is their downfall. They will degrade even when taking good care of them or even leaving them in mild heat. Trust me, we’ve recycled hundreds of dozens of these patterns before they ever hit the shelves. After speaking with a few fly designers on material options, we’ve made squirmy wormy flies that last longer by using micro chenille on the body rather than the soft plastic worm material.

Firebead Sparkle Worm

A heavy worm pattern we like to use in deep water for big browns and rainbows. The added flash and sparkle creates a wonderful contrast that sparks interest. Sometimes all it takes is a bright fly.

Scuds & Sow Bugs

Trout can be found eating scuds and sow bugs year-round. In streams with plentiful underwater vegetation these shrimp’y thingies usually take up most of the food pyramid (sorry carbohydrates). During winter months, trout heavily depend on scuds to make it through the winter. We tend to find that the most natural colors perform better in the winter: olives, browns, blacks, grays.

Beaded Scud

There are so many scud patterns out there to choose from but this simple design is incredibly effective. It features a streak of flash on the back and copper ribbing for added durability. The presentation of this scud pattern is enough to fool hardy winter trout holding deep. Just get this fly down rolling near the bottom.

Streamers & Baitfish

Trout are known not to chase during the winter. They try to exert as little energy as possible and still get what they need. That being said, you should refrain from stripping and, instead, dead-drift or swing your fly. Think like a baitfish, be the baitfish. Give slight twitches to the line so that it adds a little movement to your streamer. Most trout will not pass up streamers either due to hunger or territorial instincts if presented correctly. Tip: Cast above the pool and allow your line to swing down and across so it looks like your fly is trying to evade being lunch. Following the swing, let your line straighten out and troll your fly for a bit; this pause in motion will give impulsive trout a chance to take the fly.

Beaded Woolly Bugger

Out of all the streamers available on the market, it is hard to beat the classic Bead-head Woolly Bugger. Typically, we like to fish a darker woolly bugger in black or olive in a smaller size by striping and swinging it through deep pools we know trout hold.

Euro Tungsten Jig Bugger

This super buggy jig pattern not only has the pulsating movement from the marabou tail but also the wiggling tags of rubber legs. Masterfully designed, the combinations that make up the Tungsten Jig Bugger makes this one of our favorite winter patterns and flies for our euro nymphing rigs. You can swing, strip, or dead-drift it anywhere.

Winter Fly Fishing & Strategies

• Target a specific fish out of a pod rather than fishing blind.
• Focus your fishing to actively feeding trout found along the edges, seams, and runs of slower deep pools.
• The majority of trout will be concentrated in just a few pools. Find those pools.
• Focus on fishing from around 10:00 am to about 3:00 pm. This is when trout become most active during the day.
• Best fishing occurs when water temperatures are around 40 degrees Fahrenheit.
• Test flies and don’t be afraid to switch patterns frequently.
• Dead-drift streamers as baitfish are more inactive.

Nymphs Are More Productive

First things first, winter is not the time of year to adopt the “Dry Fly or Die” mantra. Now, there is no doubt that dry flies are arguably the most fun way to catch fish, there isn’t an angler out there who doesn’t get an adrenaline rush after watching a trout rise to the surface and aggressive slurp your fly. However, there is a time and a place for all types of fly fishing, from dries to streamers and nymphs. Winter is guaranteed to be most productive when using nymphing techniques.

Nymphing can be extremely effective and relatively easy. By positioning yourself directly across from the fish-if you aren’t able to sight fish, place yourself where the fish are most likely to be feeding, you are setting your flies up to move through the water directly in front of hungry trout. All it takes is roll cast upstream and a proper drift for trout to notice your flies.

Fish Multiple Flies

Trout are significantly less active in the winter which is why it’s a good idea to offer the trout as many delicious food options as possible, this can be achieved by rigging up three flies below a tiny indicator.

Think of this as a juicy buffet line, start your nymph rig with 5x or 6x sized tippet because water in the winter can be low and clear and you don’t want to spook away the chance at a fish. Next, add a very small strike indicator, and micro weight, sometimes two. Add the first fly which should be an attractor pattern such as a San Juan worm. Then below the first fly, add a midge and then a second midge below that. Be sure to keep the heaviest weight midge on the very end, to avoid bird nesting your line.

The other benefit to nymphing 3 flies on a single line of tippet is the ability to try multiple colors and patterns all at once. Then you can dial in the pattern that is producing fish more quickly.

Preventing Frozen Guides

Before your rod even touches the water, spray it down with some PAM cooking spray. Chances are you have some in your pantry and if not you can pick some up for under five dollars at the nearest supermarket. This is a tried and true tactic, that will prevent guides from freezing quickly.

The one thing I never leave home without has major benefits on the water as well, chapstick! Rub a little chapstick on your guides to discourage ice build-up. I prefer either original Burt’s Bee’s or Carmex or any natural based lip balm will do the trick! Loon outdoors makes a non-toxic paste, its safe for the environment as well as your fly line. Just under ten dollars, you can pick up this ice off paste at your local fly shop.

These methods will only work for a short period of time. Your guides will eventually freeze over and more application of pastes and oils will be necessary.

The only true long-lasting method to prevent guides from icing over is to use very thin mono-rigs, such as euro nymphing leaders. Less water is collected on the retrieve with mono-rigs compared to thick fly lines so less water ever reaches the guides to freeze over. You won’t be able to do much dry fly fishing using mono-rigs, however, you’ll rarely ever need to during the cold winter. Give mono-rigs a shot and you’ll notice what we did, less ice and more fish. If you’re curious about using mono-rigs, read this article here about whether Euro Nymphing Leaders are worth it.

What To Wear

That’s the conundrum for so many anglers during the cold winter months. Sure, the fish are out there and probably willing to eat, but is it really worth it during that snowstorm that brings several inches of snow and freezing temperatures? The answer to that becomes much easier when you’re armed with the right gear and clothing to combat the harsh conditions of winter!

Hands

Of all the things that threaten to end the day early, cold hands and fingers is at the top of the list. The inability to comfortably tie on a new rig and the stinging of frozen fingertips grinds a day of fishing to a halt. During these winter months, I like to bring two pairs of gloves with me. The first pair is fingerless wool, which allows me to stay pretty warm and still maintain a level of function. For those extra cold days, the second pair is a wool mitten that flips down into gloves. When I’m casting, my off hand is in mitten mode for maximum warmth, but it’s still really easy to switch into the gloves for retying or unhooking a fish!

Feet

Keeping feet warm in winter is the toughest thing to achieve. Numb toes that feel more like blocks of ice than extremities is a miserable feeling, and it’s really hard to combat. When it comes to dressing for warmth, wear two pairs of socks. Typically my bottom layer is just a regular run-of-the-mill athletic sock followed by thick wool socks. Having two layers helps a ton, and walking around out on the stream keeps blood circulating, which is about the best you can do when water temperatures are hovering just above freezing.

Layers

Dressing in layers, and having more layers available in the car, is key to a day out in winter. Weather can change in an instant, and even a few degree drop can be debilitating to the cold weather angler. Companies like Simms make some fantastic layering options that are lightweight and warm. A classic winter layering system for me is a long sleeve tee, fleece quarter zip, hoodie, and then a jacket to cut the wind and, if necessary, repel precipitation. Another jacket, usually a puffy warmer option, extra hoodie, and fleece layer are stashed in the truck just in case it’s colder than anticipated or even worse, a fall in happens.

How to use weight to catch more fish.

Every fly fisherman, at some point in time, needs a tactical intervention. In my case, it happened to be a depth issue. I needed to properly understand the connection between the weight of my flies, the depth, and flow of the water I was fishing.

The most beneficial advice I have ever received when it comes to technical nymphing was to use more weight! This will help you identify the speed and depth of the current better. Not every hole or riffle should be fished with the same amount of weight or depth. Make sure you are properly evaluating and surveying the stretch you have chosen to fish and adjust accordingly.

A deep plunge pool requires more weight and depth for the flies to get down deeper, but that same approach might not work on a riffle. Less weight and less depth would much more likely cater to that type of water.

So, what does this do? As an avid angler, the most essential and helpful dynamic to technical trout fishing relies on the ability to gauge depth and flow. Take a minute to survey and prospect once you get to the water, don’t just rush into a spot. Look at the water and visualize where the bugs may be, where the fish may be, and where your flies need to be to directly replicate the mannerisms of the natural ecosystem.

Adding supplemental weight to your nymphing rigs is the difference between catching fish and not. Here’s why. The whole idea about split shots and using heavier beads is not only to get your nymphs down faster but to put your flies within the water column that fish most readily feed at—along the bottom.

Knowing when to add and remove weight is the most important thing you have to know when nymphing. Knowing how to use the weight is another.

Believe it or not, there are times when you’ll need to add weight to your nymphing rigs if you ever want a chance of hooking up.

• Water is high and fast
• Deep pools
• Flies are too light
• Not getting deep enough
• Current is too strong

2 Split Shots are sometimes better than one

One of the best methods of using split shots is to put 2 splits and never just one.

Just having one sinker pulls your nymphing rig down between rocks and boulders like an anchor. Use two sinkers instead. Attaching two allows them to work together and pull each other out of crevices that you would otherwise get stuck in. Water flow catches the sinkers at different angles and pushes them downstream with the current in a rolling motion.

Streamers and split shots

You can so add split shots above streamers to add a jigging – up and down action when retrieved. Placing two split shots above the fly a few inches apart will allow the streamer to roll along the bottom like how a dead minnow or baitfish would.

Add more weight if your flies are going by too fast.

Most flies are pretty light and don’t carry much weight to them. Of course, you can prepare ahead of time by keeping a steady supply of tungsten beaded nymphs and weighted flies. But, odds are that you don’t.

No matter what time of year it is, trout are always feeding along the bottom. It is the perfect place. There is plenty of food and little to no current on the bottom, which allows fish to use very little energy and still continue to scoop up insects floating by. In case you’re wondering, slower currents along the bottom are the result of the friction between the water and the streambed.

Someday you’ll be caught on the stream with a few handfuls of light nymphs and deep, fast water to work. Trout are always feeding along the bottom so this is a perfect time to use tungsten putty or split shots.

Take some weight off if you keep snagging up.

That is the simplest way to put it. If you keep snagging up, subtract some weight.

Now, if you are snagging up every dozen casts or so leave, the weight on. It’s not the best idea to take some weight off unless you’re getting stuck 2 casts out of 3. You can do this in one of two ways.

• Remove or replace a split shot with a smaller one
• Replace the flies that are the most weight
• Do both

Play around with adding weight and remember to always be adjusting. Conditions change from place to place so it’s totally normal to mess around with things to make it right.

Ask any five deer hunters what the best 308 ammo is for deer and you’ll likely get five different answers. The truth is, there are a lot of excellent deer hunting factory loads for 308 Winchester (308 Win for short) as the round is flat shooting, has amazing stopping power, and you have a wide variety of different bullet profiles to choose from.

However, if you want to ensure that you’re baking Bambi’s backstraps at deer camp instead of tracking blood trails for hours on end…Then you’ve found the right article!

Below you’ll find our top six favorite 308 Win deer hunting loads on the market for 2024. Although this is not a comprehensive list, these selections have proven time and time again to put the venison on your plate instead of bounding into the brush.

If you simply can’t wait, our favorite deer hunting round is Winchester Deer Season XP 150 gr Extreme Point. However, if you want the full list keep on scrolling or if you want to understand what makes for an amazing deer hunting cartridge, then check out our Buyer’s Guide HERE.

Quick Administrative Note: I know you’re ready for the top 6 list and it’s right below. This article is wholly focused on deer hunting, but if you’re looking for the best overall 308 Winchester ammo for hunting and target shooting, then check out this article: The Best 308 Ammo for Hunting and Target Shooting.

The Best 308 Ammo for Deer Hunting Top Picks

1. Winchester Deer Season XP 150 gr Extreme Point
2. Hornady Custom 150 gr SST
3. Black Hills Gold 168 gr TSX
4. Federal Premium 175 gr Terminal Ascent
5. Hornady Precision Hunter 178 gr ELD-X
6. Remington Core-Lokt 180 gr PSP

The Best .308 Ammo for Deer Hunting Overall

Winchester Deer Season XP 150 gr Extreme Point

Specs

• Casing: Brass
• Bullet Type: Extreme Point
• Bullet Weight: 150 gr
• Muzzle Velocity: 2,820 FPS
• Muzzle Energy: 2,648 FT-LBS

Pros

• Optimized polymer tip for ideal penetration and expansion
• Affordable
• Built specifically for deer hunting

Cons

• Results vary depending on the rifle

Why We Chose It

If you’re looking for a premium deer hunting round that has the terminal performance to stop a trophy whitetail or mule deer dead in its tracks, then look no further than Winchester Deer Season XP.

Winchester designed the Deer Season XP line of ammunition with the specific needs of deer hunters in mind. Descended from the legendary Winchester Power Point bullet, the Extreme Point 150-grain bullet offers deep penetration combined with wicked expansion to really quickly and ethically put down any trophy buck that wanders near your tree stand.

The secret to the Extreme Point’s effectiveness is tied to its aerodynamic polymer tip. Not only does it protect the oversized hollow point during chambering, but the tip also initiates expansion immediately when it encounters soft tissue.

This puts down deer fast so long as your shot placement is on point, and with its low price point you’ll have more than enough opportunity to get out to the range and practice those long-range hunting shots.

When you combine all of these qualities together, the result is more venison in your freezer, an amazing rack of antlers on your wall, and a story to tell your hunting buddies that you’ll never forget. And if you want that, then make sure your bolt-action deer hunting rifle is loaded with Winchester Deer Season XP 150 Extreme Point ammo this fall!

Hornady Custom 150 gr SST

Specs

• Casing: Brass
• Bullet Type: Super Shock Tip
• Bullet Weight: 150 gr
• Muzzle Velocity: 2,820 FPS
• Muzzle Energy: 2,648 FT-LBS

Pros

• Loaded with Hornady’s reputation for quality
• Excellent weight retention and terminal performance
• Availability

Cons

• More expensive than Winchester

Why We Chose It

If you plan on hunting medium-sized game and want a round with a flat trajectory and devastating terminal performance, then Hornady Custom 150 gr SST ammo is what you need for your next hunt.

The Hornady SST combines everything hunters love from Hornady’s groundbreaking Interlock Soft Point design and integrates it into a hollow point projectile with a polymer tip to initiate expansion. Upon impact the tip is forced into the hollow point to initiate expansion. delivering tremendous shock to a whitetail and creating a massive wound channel that can put a deer down fast.

The SST bullet utilizes an aerodynamic secant ogive bullet profile for a flatter trajectory, tapered jacket for deep penetration, and the patented Hornady Interlock ring that locks the lead core to the jacket and thereby increasing weight retention.

All in all, the Hornady Custom 150 gr SST is an incredibly close runner-up to our top pick and is only supplanted due to a slightly higher price point. However, given Hornady’s outstanding reputation for loading incredibly accurate and deadly ammo, a slightly higher price is easily justified when you want to make sure that trophy buck ends up on your wall.

Black Hills Gold 168gr TSX

Specs

• Casing: Brass
• Bullet Type: Triple-Shock X
• Bullet Weight: 168 gr
• Muzzle Velocity: 2,650 FPS
• Muzzle Energy: 2,619 FT-LBS

Pros

• Great quality and reputation
• High velocity for its weight
• Triple-Shock X bullet offers excellent expansion and penetration

Cons

• It’s pricey, but it’s also spicy

Why We Chose It

When shooters talk about Black Hills ammo, phrases like “incredibly accurate”, “extremely consistent”, and “excellent terminal ballistics” are commonplace. The Black Hills Gold 168 gr TSX holds true to this legacy and is unquestionably a deer hunting round that should be on your short list to pickup this fall.

Although this offering from Black Hills is firing a heavier bullet than our first two selections, it still maintains a high muzzle velocity and flat trajectory desired for those long range shots.

The Barnes TSX bullet is the heart of this Black Hills Gold factory load, providing unparalleled stopping power and accuracy that is stops whitetail, black bears, feral hogs, and any other 4-legged varmint dead in their tracks.

Machined from a solid piece of copper, Triple-Shock X bullets utilize a traditional hollow point bullet that offers exceptional penetration and expansion that’s needed when taking on big game animals. And as the bullet is lead-free to boot, which means it’s legal for use in states like California.

If you’re familiar with Barnes Bullets and the TSX, you’ll know that it is the big brother to their newer model, the TTSX (Tipped Trippe-Shock X) bullets. Both are excellent hunting bullets, but Black Hills opted to go with the classic model and who can blame them?

We know a lot of people talk about the price of the Black Hills Gold TSX, but when you consider you’re getting an average of 60 pounds of meat for $3, and you don’t have to spend hours tracking an injured Cervidae, it’s more than worth it!

Federal Premium 175 gr Terminal Ascent

Specs

• Casing: Nickel-Plated Brass
• Bullet Type: Terminal Acent
• Bullet Weight: 175gr
• Muzzle Velocity: 2,600 FPS
• Muzzle Energy: 2,627 FT-LBS

Pros

• Bonded construction for high weight retention
• High ballistic coefficient for long range shots
• Designed for excellent expansion at high and low velocity

Cons

• You pay for performance

Why We Chose It

The Federal Terminal Ascent is not only one of the heavier bullets on our list, but it’s an exquisitely designed, polymer-tipped, and high-quality round that feeds well. The nickel-plated brass makes for smooth chambering, and the bonded lead core helps the projectile retain its weight on impact.

Federal designed the Terminal Ascent with its patented Slipstream polymer tip to give the bullet a flatter trajectory (because accuracy is important), but it also helps with low-velocity expansion.

Capable of taking big game animals like elk and caribou, the Federal Premium 175 gr Terminal Ascent is more than capable of taking down any whitetail or mule deer that crosses your path.

This Federal Premium hunting ammo is one deer hunting round that you don’t want to miss when it’s in stock even though it’s a little pricey. But as Federal says on their website regarding Terminal Ascent, “Any hunt. Any range.” And that is performance most hunters are willing to shuck out a few extra shekels for!

Hornady Precision Hunter 178 gr ELD-X

Specs

• Casing: Brass
• Bullet Type: Extremely Low Drag – Expanding
• Bullet Weight: 178 gr
• Muzzle Velocity: 2,600 FPS
• Muzzle Energy: 2,672 FT-LBS

Pros

• Match-grade accuracy and reliability
• Backed by Hornady’s reputation and consistency
• High ballistic coefficient for long-range shots

Cons

• Heavier bullet weight
• Heavier price tag

Why We Chose It

Any competitive shooter will tell you that match ammo is excellent for long range precision shooting, but any hunter will also tell you that match-grade ammo isn’t ethical for hunting deer (or any game, for that matter). Hornady solved this issue by taking the best qualities of their match ammo and combined it with an expanding bullet to create one of the most deadly hunting bullets ever made.

The Hornady ELD-X is one of the top long-range hunting bullets on the market, walking in the same circles as long-time standbys like the Accubond Long Range or Berger VLD.

The Hornady ELD-X integrates many of the same qualities as the SST, which was our #2 pick earlier in this article. It utilizes the Interlock system to keep the lead core and jacket of the bullet intact during expansion as well as a smooth, sleek design with a high ballistic coefficient for long-range accuracy.

Hornady combined their highly concentric AMP bullet jacket technology with their equally impressive Heat Shield tip to create a bullet that is not only streamlined but also extremely deadly.

Although Hornady Precision Hunter ammo is extremely accurate and effective against large game animals, it also carries a price tag to match that performance. However, as most hunters aren’t spending the weekend plinking with their hunting rifle and only need a few boxes of ammo per year, that price tag is well worth the added performance Hornady Precision Hunter 178 gr ELD-X offers.

Remington Core-Lokt 180 gr PSP

Specs

• Casing: Brass
• Bullet Type: Pointed Soft Point (PSP)
• Bullet Weight: 180 gr
• Muzzle Velocity: 2,743 FPS
• Muzzle Energy: 2,620 FT-LBS

Pros

• Affordable and Effective
• Easy to find
• Trusted by generations to bring home the venison

Cons

• Not as accurate as some premium rounds

Why We Chose It

The Remington Core-Lokt 180 gr PSP is the closest thing you’ll get to your Grandpa’s favorite hunting rounds. You don’t get a lot of bells and whistles with these hunting cartridges, but they hit hard and simply get the job done.

Remington designed the Core-Lokt in the late 1930s and has been one of the flagship hunting cartridges for the company ever since. Although it may not be as sleek or accurate as an ELD-X, but the Core-Lokt simply slaps and can easily fell a deer with one bullet with good shot placement.

Combine all this with a price tag every hunter can afford, there’s no way that we couldn’t include this classic big game hunting round.

Parting Shots

The 308 Win has a long and storied history of being an extremely accurate and effective deer hunting round. Picking the best 308 ammo for deer is always something that is a little bit subjective, but if you pick any of the rounds on our top 6 list, we promise you won’t be disappointed.

No matter your preference, do keep in mind that ammo goes fast especially when the leaves start to change colors. When you see a few boxes available, grab them up and put them away for deer season.

You can click HERE to go back to the top of our list or scroll down to our buyer’s guide to learn more about choosing .308 ammo for hunting.

The Best 308 Ammo For Deer Buyer’s Guide

Welcome to our .308 Winchester for deer hunting buyer’s guide! In this section, we’ll review some tips to help you pick out your next favorite deer-hunting bullet. We also have tips to help you pick your next favorite .308 ammo for other hunting and shooting activities.

.308 Winchester Deer Hunting Bullet Types Explained

Finding good deer hunting ammo is pretty easy when you know what to look for. When I first started buying deer hunting ammo (many years ago), I picked up whatever box was cheap and had a picture of a deer on it (let’s be honest, that’s great marketing). Now, as an avid hunter, one of the first things I look at is the bullet type and design.

Bullets react with their targets in different ways depending on their composite and design (this is called terminal ballistics). For example, you’ve probably heard of FMJs (Full Metal Jackets). These rounds have a soft lead core covered with a thin jacket (typically copper), and they’re most useful for target shooting and plinking because they are inexpensive.

FMJ ammo is great for a fund day at the range, but they don’t expand on impact when they impact soft tissue. Despite the muzzle velocity, trajectory, and ballistic coefficient, these bullets aren’t going to create a wound channel sufficient enough to ethically take down large to medium sized game like whitetail deer or feral hogs.

Now you might think that hollow point bullets are the way to go for deer hunting, but this is also a misconception. Although jacketed hollow points are excellent for self-defense handgun ammo, they simply aren’t great for deer hunting. Most hollow point rifle bullets are match-grade (like the Sierra Matchking) and designed for long range shooting and accuracy.

Accuracy is definitely important when you line up your sights on a trophy buck. But since match ammo doesn’t offer any advantages in terminal ballistics over FMJ ammo, they simply aren’t appropriate for deer hunting.

So, the only suitable hunting ammo types are bullets that reliably expand when they encounter a big game animal. These bullets types include Soft Points, Polymer Tips, SSTs (Super Shock Tip), ballistic tips, PSP (pointed soft point), or something like the Nosler Partition.

.308 Deer Hunting Rifle and Ammo Tips

Rifle selection is an important part of deer hunting, as you need to make sure that your rifle can deliver your hunting bullets to where they need to go.

You don’t need the hottest hunting rifle on the market to put down big game, regardless of what the kind salesperson behind the gun counter tells you. Your great uncle’s Ruger Hawkeye bolt-action rifle, Granddad’s sketchy Henry 30-30 lever action rifle (speaking from experience here), or the hottest semi-automatics can all equally put deer on your kitchen table.

No matter your rifle preference, there are some things that you should know about finding the perfect cartridge to drop a mule deer on the spot.

As mentioned previously, you’ll want to get out to the range before deer season. Most factory loads (and even hand loads) perform differently depending on the rifle. These variations are further exacerbated by varying twist rates and casings.

If you love to hunt, you should love to go target shooting too. Shot placement is just as important as terminal ballistics, so pick up a few boxes of .308 ammo from different manufacturers, and get out to the range to find out which ones are most accurate in your chosen hunting rifle.

Naturally, you’ll also want to keep your rifle clean and in good working order. A rifle you don’t take care of will not take care of you (or any wild game hunting). This tip also includes taking great care of your scope (hence, also getting out to the range).

Another thing to consider when using the .308 Winchester for deer hunting is distance. The options listed above tend to perform well within 400 yards. But before you take those long-range shots, ensure your rifle and ammo will perform adequately.

Different cartridges will have different effective ranges when it comes to deer hunting. Rounds like the 30-06 Springfield and 6.5 Creedmoor have different trajectories and terminal performance compared to the 308 Win, so it’s important to understand your rifle, cartridge, and their capabilities before you ever set foot in the woods.

Frequently Asked Questions

There’s a lot that goes into hunting, ammo, and your rifle. If we didn’t cover all of your burning questions above, hang out with us for a few more minutes, and we’ll answer your most frequently asked questions.

Is this .308 ammo good for bears too?

The .308 Winchester is an excellent cartridge for black bear and is more effective than handguns for bear defense. There are multiple rounds that are effective against black bear like the Barnes VOR-TX or Nosler’s Accubond that are perfectly suited if you actively choose to pick a fight with Baloo.

Is there a difference between the .308 Norma Magnum and the .308 Winchester?

Yes, the .308 Norma Magnum uses a 338 Win Mag case necked down to fire a .30 caliber projectile. Essentially, the 308 Norma Magnum has a larger case and is more powerful than the .308 Winchester.

What does a boat tail do?

A boat tail helps a bullet reduce drag, giving it a flatter trajectory and making it less susceptible to wind deflection. This makes the bullet more aerodynamic and increases the ballistic coefficient.

Can I use the 5.56 NATO or .223 for deer hunting?

Many states prohibit the use of 5.56 NATO or 223 Remington for deer hunting. However, the bullets like a Federal Fusion or Trophy Bonded can be effective against deer when fired from a 223.

Can I buy .308 Winchester deer hunting ammo in bulk?

Absolutely! If you want to stock up, we have a lot of bulk .308 Winchester ammo available. Look for the Soft Point, PSP, or Winchester Power Point.

Back to the Best .308 Deer Hunting Ammo

Now that you have a better understanding of the .308 Winchester and the best deer-hunting ammo click HERE to go back to our favorite 308 deer hunting cartridges!

Are you in need of tips on how to preserve a deer tail for your next project?

If you are looking to use it as a lure or any craft project, then our step by step guide will help you out. Discover this easy DIY guide to clean and preserve that precious deer tail. Beginning from the carcass and up to the slab, we’ll teach you everything you need to know.

Let’s get started!

How To Preserve A Deer Tail

Just a heads up – the tips on how to preserve a deer tail that you are about to read is focused more on the simple preservation of this material.

It does not involve tanning; instead, this is the step that you will start with before you tan the deer tail. By preserving the tail, you can get the fur perfectly set. Hence, you can prevent bugs from developing into the material.

Another reason why you would want to learn how to preserve a deer tail is to keep the material intact. Otherwise, it is most likely to get torn over time.

Are you all set to preserve that deer tail? Let’s get started with these tips:

1. Remove the tail.

Naturally you want to first remove the tail off the deer. Cut the tail off depending on the length that you prefer. Some folks snip it at the base of the deer’s buttocks but you can decide on how long you exactly want it to be.

For this step, you will need a pair of utility knife, pliers or razor. Be sure to get the bone out of the tail, or that hard portion. You can do this by slicing it right down the middle.

2. Start the cut.

Next step, you will now have to make your cut. With the tail no longer intact the bum of your deer, lay it flatly on a clean surface.

Keep the bottom portion up with the hairs separated. Then, cut precisely right along the entire length of the tail or over the bone.

You will want to make sure that the hair is parted while you cut to the top. This will help to prevent losing much of the fur or causing some damage to the tail’s overall appearance.

Once you have opened the tail, pick the bone out using your pliers. You need to be very careful with cutting the fat right from the bone’s base portion.

As you hold the hide down, gently pull the tail right off. In some cases, cutting the fat that sticks to the bone may be necessary. Do this as gently and as firmly as possible until the bone is completely out.

3. Clean the hide.

At this point, you are now ready to wash and clean the hide. You only need to use some dish soap diluted in warm water.

Fill up a basin with warm water and mild detergent. Next, submerge the tail carefully and rinse off blood or dirt that may be stuck in it.

Rub it gently with soap but be careful not to tear any piece. When you are done soaping it, you need to rinse it with lukewarm water until there is no more soap left on it.

4. Dry the tail thoroughly.

After you have cleaned the tail, it’s now time to dry it all off.

Lay it on a wax paper and grab your hair dryer to gently dry out the hair and skin. Be sure that it is completely dry.

You may also use some paper towels to further dry it. Sometimes, there’s some moisture left on the skin after using a hair dryer, so paper towels or some dry cloth would come in handy.

In case some fat remains intact, simply scrape this portion off with a serrated knife. But be very gentle and careful since you would not want to cut the skin.

6. Add borax to the tail.

You may be wondering why you need to use borax to the tail. Well, for the simple reason of protecting it from bacteria that might develop on the skin.

Since borax is antibacterial, it helps to apply it on the tail to fully preserve and protect it from damage.

With the tail laying flat and cut open, coat the inner portion with a thin layer of your borax. You may apply as much as necessary, which will coat the flesh that’s fully exposed.

But if you are preparing the deer tail for tanning, you may want to use non-iodized salt instead of borax. Apply a thick layer of non-iodized salt on the flesh until it is fully coated. Let it dry ad add a bit more salt as needed for this salt curing process.

An additional tip when preparing the material for tanning is by making sure all membrane and fat are removed. When you leave even the slightest hint of fat on the skin, this will give the tan an odd color while reducing pliability.

Let the tail coated with borax sit for a few days in a dry and cool place. You need to be certain that the skin is absolutely dry before you use it for your desired purpose.

Alternate Technique On How To Preserve A Deer Tail

Perhaps it doesn’t really matter as much without you if the tail is flexible or pliable. In this case, you may go for the dehydrator technique.

A food dehydrator is just what you need to really dry the material out. But at the same time, it will completely dry the flesh out, which may not be ideal for some people.

You can simply leave the tail in a food dehydrator for a few days. This will completely dry the material, yet you will no longer be able to reform it to the way you want without causing the hide to break.

What To Do With Preserved Deer Tail

Now that you have completed the process of preserving deer tail, you may be curious to find out what exactly you can do with it.

Well, if you are an angler, you can certainly use the deer tail on jigs. This is a fine material that is strong and durable, which is perfect for jigs to use on fishing.

But if you are not into angling, you can also use the hair of deer as a paintbrush. You will love the durability and steadiness of the tail and the brush works for your ceramic glaze.

And lastly, you can make small purses or dice bags for the tail. Just put the parts together and add a smooth lining or just leave it as is – leathery and all.

No matter what you decide to do with your preserved deer tail, it is sure to be a great project to work on with amazing results!

Final Thoughts

Preserving deer tail may initially seem to be a complex and intimidating process.

But by checking out our quick guide on how to preserve a deer tail, now you understand that it is actually quite simple and basic.

With only a few tools and some know-hows that we have just shared with you, the entire process should go as seamlessly as possible.

We hope this post has been helpful, and now, you are ready to start preserving deer tail for your next DIY project!

It isn’t often that the whitetail world gets a legitimate chance to headline a “biggest ever” or “new world record.” By definition, only rarely do trophies of this magnitude come along.

For instance, the current overall Boone & Crockett non-typical world record “Missouri Monarch” was found way back in 1981. It’s also now been over a quarter-century since Saskatchewan hunter Milo Hanson shocked the world by taking a new No. 1 B&C typical. The “Nebraska General” shed antlers, the largest free-range typical set ever recorded, were found in 1959 but only brought to public attention in 1996.

In 2000, Mike Beatty broke the Pope & Young word record — which had stood since 1962 — with a 294 0/8-inch Ohio non-typical. And in 2004, Tony Lovstuen’s 307 5/8-inch Iowa muzzleloader buck was recognized as the largest whitetail ever taken by a hunter. He held that rank until 2016, when we were treated to muzzleloader hunter Stephen Tucker’s 312 0/8-inch Tennessee non-typical, which was recognized as the largest whitetail ever taken by a hunter. And then, last fall, Luke Brewster arrowed a 320 5/8-inch Illinois giant that has taken the crown from Tucker as the newest top non-typical hunter kill.

Interestingly, on the heels of the Brewster buck, we have another whitetail sending shock waves throughout the antler community.

The December/January 2018 issue of North American Whitetail magazine featured a monstrous 9-point buck from southern Indiana. The deer, taken by hunter Andrea Moffett, had a gross typical score of 200 inches and a B&C net score at 180 4/8. Those numbers put the Moffett buck among the world’s elite whitetails. But it is the 2015 shed antlers from the buck that are going to blow away any misconceptions about just how big a wild deer can possibly grow.

The current world record matched set of typical shed antlers listed in the North American Shed Hunters Club (NASHC) record book is from a buck known as “The Nebraska General.” That matched 6×6 set has an official record book score of 195 1/8 net inches following asymmetry deductions (without a spread credit). The largest 5×5 typical sheds listed in the NASHC record book belong to the so-called Fleming sheds from Saskatchewan with a net score of 181 2/8 (again, no spread credit). The preliminary measurements of the Indiana sheds will put them very near, or slightly over the Fleming sheds as the world’s largest known 5×5 set.

The final numbers on a score sheet determine where a set of antlers will rank. However, a score is only a number — it does not always tell the entire story or describe just how big a set of antlers might truly be. Seeing the rack in person is the only way to understand the full size and visual impact the antlers have. And while the Moffett buck carried the 2015 set of antlers, he was beyond any doubt in my mind the largest typical whitetail to ever walk the earth!

Let me explain. It would be impressive enough if these antlers were given a final official score that meets or exceeds the reigning world record for 5×5 sheds. That would make them huge in their own right. However, once you add on a conservative inside spread of 30-plus inches, these Indiana sheds enter a realm all of their own! Positioned as they would have been on the buck’s head, these antlers could score as high as 220 or even higher with a spread credit, netting around 210-213 after asymmetry deductions.

These numbers are unheard of for a 5×5. (Again, the Milo Hanson buck, a basic 6×6, is the largest intact typical rack ever, at 213 5/8). The Indiana buck’s left side alone could cross the coveted 100-inch mark, as that with only five points (counting the main beam). There is a very realistic expectation for these sheds to not only surpass the existing world record 5×5 sheds, but the left antler could be a world-record single, too. The typical mark for a single currently stands at 98 6/8 and is held by the Reissmann shed, a right side from Illinois in 1991.

I was recently given the privilege of not only seeing and holding the Indiana antlers myself, but also was able to compare them to the racks of many other top-end whitetails. When I picked up the sheds for the first time, I was literally speechless! I stood and stared at them and could only shake my head, mostly in disbelief. I could not believe a whitetail, not to mention a 5×5 typical, could ever reach the size and magnitude of what I held in my hands. I was eventually able to form words, but even then I could only say, “Oh, my gosh” over and over. After 30 years of being around world-class whitetails and having the honor of seeing in person and in many cases holding them, I thought I had seen it all. But as soon as I picked up these sheds, I immediately understood that I had been completely wrong in my thinking.

I was recently invited to New Richmond, Wisconsin, and to the office of Antlers by Klaus. Klaus Lebrecht is the world’s leading replicator of world-class whitetails; it was here that I was given the privilege to compare the Indiana sheds to the racks of other world-class bucks, including world records and many Top 10 entries. Albeit, I was comparing them to replicas, but those replicas are exact in scale and measurements. I can say with the utmost confidence that no other whitetail rack can hang with these sheds! They literally embarrass former and even current world records, both hunter-taken trophies and shed sets. I had intentions to take quality side-by-side comparison photos, but I soon realized that doing so would only diminish the perception of any racks I set alongside them! I simply could not do that to some of the biggest deer in the world.

Ohio antler collector Keith Snider recognized the sheds as being world class, and he negotiated their purchase from the Moffett family. They’re now the centerpiece of the “Whitetail Legends” display and are scheduled to be seen and enjoyed by thousands of deer hunters and antler enthusiasts across the continent. The giant sheds made their first public appearance at the Kansas Monster Buck Classic in Wichita earlier in January, and official measuring for NASCHC is tentatively scheduled to take place during the 2019 Iowa Deer Classic in Des Moines, March 1-3.

If you ever have the opportunity to hold these shed antlers in your hands, I’m willing to bet that one of your impulsive reaction will be to run out the door with them — not to steal them, but to show them to everyone you know! I fought with this same urge; antlers of this magnitude need to be seen and enjoyed by all hunters and collectors alike. It was a great privilege to have been given the inside information, photos and story on these sheds in October 2018, but it was very hard to keep them quiet. It was one of the toughest secrets I’ve ever been asked to hold.

There is more to be written about these colossal antlers. The entire story is one of wonder and miracles. I’ll be sure it gets told in its entirety in the near future. In the meantime, I hope you get an opportunity to see them in person. You will not be disappointed in the least. If fact, I’m certain you will agree you have seen the largest 5×5 ever known to have walked the earth!

Are you tired of suffering from hearing loss after a day at the shooting range or while working in a loud environment? Hearing protection is crucial to prevent permanent damage to your ears. But with so many options on the market, it can be overwhelming to choose the right one.

Two popular brands in the hearing protection industry are AXIL and Walkers. Both offer a range of products that cater to different needs and preferences. In this article, we’ll compare the features and benefits of AXIL and Walker’s hearing protection to help you decide which brand to choose.

So, whether you’re a hunter, shooter, or work in a noisy environment, read on to find out which brand offers the best hearing protection for you.

Walker’s vs AXIL Hearing Protection

Walker’s and Axil are both well-regarded brands in the field of hearing protection, each with its own set of unique strengths, product offerings, and user experiences, making them some of the best ear protectors for shooting on the market today.

AXIL Hearing Protection Brand

AXIL, a merger of SportEAR and Harris Hearing Group, has a history of over 60 years, specializing in the design and production of hearing protection devices. The family-owned company offers FDA-cleared products designed and engineered in the United States, focusing on enhancing and protecting hearing abilities.

AXIL’s strengths lie in its range of products, including earbuds, earmuffs, and earplugs, their commitment to quality, innovation, and customer-oriented features such as an online clinic-based hearing test, a 1-year warranty, and free shipping on orders over $50.

Walker’s Hearing Protection Brand

On the other hand, Walker’s specializes in hearing protection with various products tailored to different needs.

Their strengths lie in the excellent amplification of voices their products offer, the comfortable user experience, and the provision of different types of amplification. However, some products can be uncomfortable for extended wear.

We are going to look at one comparable set of earmuffs and Bluetooth shooting earplugs from each brand; the comparisons are;

• Axil Trackr vs Walker’s Razor Slim
• Walker’s Silencer BT 2.0 vs Axil GS Extreme

When evaluating these hearing protection devices, we examined the effectiveness of noise reduction, sound amplification, comfort, and durability. For AXIL and Walker’s, customers also value device features such as Bluetooth connectivity and volume control, battery life, and the ability to withstand different environmental conditions. A similar brand to Axil and Walker’s is Pro Ears; read our comparison.

Axil Trackr vs Walker Razor Earmuffs

Noise Reduction Rating (NRR)

When comparing the Noise Reduction Rating (NRR), the Axil Trackr Earmuffs outperform the Walker’s Razor Slim Earmuffs. The standard Axil Trackr Earmuffs model has an NRR of 25 dB, which indicates that it can reduce ambient noise by up to 25 dB. On the other hand, the Trackr BLU model goes even further with an NRR of 27 dB, thereby providing a higher level of noise reduction.

The Walker’s Razor Slim Earmuffs have an NRR of 23 dB. While this is a commendable rating, it falls slightly short of the noise reduction the Axil Trackr Earmuffs offers. However, this difference could be meaningful, especially in environments with high noise levels.

Noise Cancellation and Sound Reproduction

The Axil Trackr and Walker’s Razor Slim Earmuffs have advanced sound technologies. The Axil Trackr Earmuffs utilize sound-activated compression technology with a rapid reaction time, allowing the earmuffs to reduce loud noises instantly. They also have two directional microphones and high-fidelity speakers for clear, natural sound reproduction.

On the other hand, Walker’s Razor Slim Earmuffs uses active noise cancellation technology that selectively filters out harmful noise like gunfire while enabling clear communication. Furthermore, the omnidirectional microphones and speakers enhance the perception of sound direction, which can be a significant advantage in some situations.

Check out how Walker’s compares to Howard Leight in noise cancellation.

Design

In terms of design, the Axil Trackr Earmuffs feature a compact and slimline construction that is lightweight and portable. This model also includes a comfortable headband with a sturdy metal wire frame. Moreover, the earmuffs are sweat and water-resistant, making them suitable for outdoor usage and in various weather conditions.

Contrastingly, the Walker’s Razor Slim Earmuffs are characterized by their well-built and durable design. These earmuffs feature thin ear cups to minimize the bulkiness and an adjustable headband for a personalized fit. Furthermore, they are designed with comfortable ear padding to enhance the user’s comfort during prolonged usage.

Comfort

For comfort, the Axil Trackr Earmuffs have been highly praised. Their slimline design ensures minimal pressure on the ears, which is crucial for users needing to wear the earmuffs for extended periods. Furthermore, the adjustable headband and cushioned ear pads contribute to the overall comfort.

While the Walker’s Razor Slim Earmuffs are also designed with comfort in mind, the over-ear design may not be ideal for all users. For example, some shooters might find them too large or bulky, although the adjustable headband and comfortable ear padding are appreciated features.

Extra Features

The Axil Trackr Earmuffs are packed with several extra features. One standout feature is the audio input jack, which allows users to connect an external audio device. Additionally, these earmuffs have separate volume controls for hearing amplification and Bluetooth audio, providing a more customizable experience for the user.

Walker’s Razor Slim Earmuffs also offer additional features like an audio jack for connecting external devices. Furthermore, they provide adjustable volume settings through a conveniently placed volume knob, allowing users to adjust the sound level easily and quickly.

Bluetooth

The Trackr BLU model from Axil leaps the wireless technology department by offering Bluetooth connectivity. This feature facilitates audio playback and hands-free communication, allowing users to stay connected even in noisy environments.

As the latest product line, Walker’s Razor Slim Earmuffs has a model with Bluetooth capabilities. Before this, the lack of wireless connectivity might have limited the versatility and convenience, but now they are easily compared to the Axil Trackr BLU model. Now, they are both great Bluetooth ear muffs for mowing.

AXIL GS Extreme 2.0 vs Walkers Silencer Earplugs

Noise Reduction Rating (NRR) and Noise Cancellation

The Walker’s Silencer Earbuds have a respectable noise reduction rating (NRR) of 25dB for the first model and 23dB for the rechargeable second model. They provide significant protection from harmful noise levels, vital for settings with loud, sudden noises, such as shooting ranges. In contrast, AXIL’s GS Extreme 2.0 earbuds demonstrate an impressive NRR of 29dB, reflecting a higher level of noise attenuation compared to the Walker’s Silencer.

As for noise cancellation, both Walker’s Silencer and AXIL’s GS Extreme 2.0 implement an active approach. Walker’s Silencer offers multiple audio modes to suit the ambient environment, and the AXIL GS Extreme 2.0 uses sound compression technology for noise cancellation. However, despite both being effective in noise cancellation capabilities, the AXIL GS Extreme 2.0’s higher NRR could indicate better overall noise protection.

Sound Reproduction

Sound reproduction is crucial in hearing protection earbuds, particularly for those hard of hearing. The Walker’s Silencer earbuds utilize omnidirectional microphones, providing excellent sound reproduction and allowing users to hear ambient sounds clearly. On the other hand, AXIL’s GS Extreme 2.0 also offers audio enhancement features, aiding those with hearing difficulties.

Both products provide the option to amplify quieter sounds while protecting against louder, potentially harmful noises. However, while both models are praised for their sound reproduction capabilities, personal preference will likely play a significant role in choosing one.

Design and Comfort

Design and comfort significantly impact the usability of earbuds. Walker’s Silencer earbuds are praised for their comfort and customizable fit, and they come with different foam tip sizes for added convenience. These earbuds are lightweight and accompanied by a durable charging case. Similarly, the AXIL GS Extreme 2.0 earbuds also offer different earplug sizes and styles, ensuring a comfortable fit for various users. In addition, they have Sportfit ear hooks for improved retention and a compact size that adds to portability and comfort.

Each product has taken steps to ensure comfort and a good fit. However, some users might find wires on the AXIL GS Extreme 2.0 earbuds bothersome, even though it aids in keeping them together and reduces the chance of loss. Others might prefer the completely wireless design of the Walker’s Silencer earbuds.

Extra Features and Bluetooth Capability

Both earbuds offer additional features to enhance user experience. The Walker’s Silencer earbuds have a Bluetooth variant, Silencer BT, offering voice prompts and four distinct sound profiles. In addition, their application provides a customizable user interface, though some users have reported issues with it. The AXIL GS Extreme 2.0 also provides Bluetooth connectivity, volume controls, and audio enhancement features. However, some users have mentioned a slight hissing sound and sensitivity to user voice as potential drawbacks.

Overall, both the Walker’s Silencer earbuds and the AXIL GS Extreme 2.0 earbuds offer many features, ensuring user needs are met. However, personal preference and specific requirements might dictate the choice between the two, given the slight differences in characteristics and user experience.

AXIL XCOR vs Walker’s Disrupter

The Axil XCOR and Walker’s Disruptor earbuds both serve as advanced hearing protection devices with additional features for an enhanced auditory experience, but they differ in several key aspects.

The Axil XCOR offers a Single Number Rating (SNR) of 29 dB, with the ability to vary between 19-29 dB depending on the ear tip used. It features Digital Hearing Protection that compresses noises over 85dB, such as gunfire, to protect hearing while allowing ambient sounds to be heard. The XCOR also supports Bluetooth connectivity for music and calls, touch control, USB-C charging, and boasts a water and dust-resistant design. Battery life ranges up to 12 hours for Hear Control only, 6 hours for Bluetooth Audio only, and 4 hours for both.

Walker’s Disruptor, on the other hand, has a 24dB noise reduction rating and includes features such as Bluetooth, a rechargeable USB-C case, and a comprehensive set of listening modes. It offers Forward Focus Mode to prioritize sounds in front of the user, 360° Directional Sound with four microphones for true spatial awareness, Active Noise Cancellation (ANC) for reducing background noise, and Rapid Impulse Cancellation for immediate reaction to harmful noise levels. The Disruptor also pairs with a smartphone app for customizable settings.

In summary, while both products aim to provide hearing protection and enhancement, the Axil XCOR focuses on tactical use with a higher SNR and robust design, whereas Walker’s Disruptor emphasizes situational awareness and customizable sound experiences through its app and various listening modes.

AXIL vs Walker: Which is Better?

After a comprehensive comparison of the two most popular earmuff and earplug models from AXIL and Walker’s, it becomes apparent that both brands deliver high-quality, effective products tailored toward meeting diverse user needs. In addition, both companies have showcased their expertise in providing noise protection, sound reproduction, comfort, and extra features. Another notable comparison is Walkers vs Peltor hearing protection.

AXIL’s GS Extreme 2.0 earbuds and Tracker earmuffs provide impressive noise reduction ratings and sound reproduction, aiding hearing protection and enhancement. In addition, their Bluetooth capabilities, customizable fit, and additional features like volume controls speak volumes about AXIL’s dedication to providing a comprehensive hearing protection solution.

On the other hand, Walker’s Silencer earbuds and Razor earmuffs offer a slightly lower noise reduction rating but excellent sound reproduction and noise cancellation capabilities. Their commitment to comfort is seen in their customizable fit and design choices. The Silencer BT model offers four distinct sound profiles and Bluetooth connectivity for convenience. Walker also has Game Ears hearing aids.

Choosing between AXIL and Walker’s depends on your needs and personal preferences. For example, if the highest level of noise reduction is a priority, AXIL might be the better choice. However, if a completely wireless design and a more comprehensive range of sound profiles are more important to you, Walker’s could be a better fit.

In conclusion, AXIL and Walker’s produce reliable, high-quality hearing protection. It’s recommended to try both brands, evaluate them based on your personal needs, and then make an informed decision. Each brand has unique strengths and areas of specialization, providing diverse options for those seeking superior hearing protection.

A detailed review and performance comparison of Sage Salt R8, Scott Sector, G.Loomis Asquith and NRX+ fly rods

Saltwater fly rod review model-by-model comparison

This much-anticipated and perhaps overdue head-to-head review was spurred by the introduction of the Sage Salt R8. We compare saltwater rods every day in conversations with customers, but with the Salt R8 introduction, we felt the time was right to put these four series under the microscope. Each represents the leading edge of unique rod design legacies and all will be among the very best available to global saltwater anglers for many years to come.

As of this writing, these are the rods that drive the debate. We recommend and sell plenty of Winston Air Salt and Sage Igniters, as well as the underrated Winston Alpha+, but all of those are fundamentally unique and less often compared directly with the Salt R8, Sector, Asquith and NRX+. Every Igniter is stiffer, or “faster,” than any rod in this review. Every Winston, whether an Air Salt or Alpha+, is less stiff, or “slower” than any of these rods. One and all fine fly rods, they represent the extremes of preference and purpose and are thus excluded from this comparison.

Our goal in this article is to differentiate similar models to help anglers choose the rod best aligned with their fishing preferences and casting style. We cast each rod group side-by-side with two fly lines to distinguish the nuances of casting range, feel, line speed, accuracy, power and presentation. Occasionally we landed on a universal favorite, a rod we all preferred regardless of line choice. More broadly, however, the range of our observations and preferences likely reflects the diversity of our customers. All of these rods will catch fish, but each has distinct character, so choose a rod that quickens your heartrate when you reach for it!

Alternative configurations: Scott Sector 8’4″ and 2-piece models are fantastic fly rods. If your rod will live on a boat, strongly consider one of the 8’10” 2-piece Sectors. The convenience of a 2-piece rod is undeniable for the local angler. Scott’s 8’4″ Sectors fly way under the radar, too, and while not described in this article, we implore anglers to consider one on merit of lightness, casting ease and accuracy. Unfairly categorized as “boat rods,” we find the 8’4″ Sectors to be lethal fishing tools and a pleasure to cast whether on foot or afloat. Some misconceive that a shorter rod is somehow weaker. They are actually stronger fish fighters because the lever between hand and fish is shorter.

At the end of the day, most anglers prefer a 9′ 4-piece saltwater fly rod. In our opinion, the Asquith, Salt R8, Sector and NRX+ are the most compelling choices. So, let’s get on with it. Which one will make your heart race?

This article was written by John Duncan with input on every rod model from Fly Shop Manager Parker Thompson and Richard Post, our Buyer and all-around fly fishing assassin.

Sage Salt R8

Introduced in January 2024, the Salt R8 brought Sage’s saltwater fly rods back to the everyday angler. They are a joy to fish: light, explosive, intuitive and accurate. Components are second to none. The grips are smallest in class, a gracefully contoured full Wells that lacks nothing for purchase or leverage but seems to fit the hand of every angler just a little better. The Salt R8 are legacy defining rods, taking us back to the day when Sage was the first and last word in saltwater fly rod design.

Defining characteristics: lightness, easy power, high line speed and great loops with popular saltwater lines

G.Loomis Asquith

Years after its introduction (2016), the Loomis Asquith continues to astound anglers who have never cast one. While no rod will be considered “perfect,” rod designer Steve Rajeff clearly achieved or surpassed his ideals with the basic action of these fly rods. Some consider the grips to be chunky and unrefined; others find the components underwhelming, but none argue that Asquith rod blanks stand alone in flex and recovery characteristics, using more of the rod with greater resilience to generate the highest line speed of any fly rod.

Defining characteristics: elite power, lively feel throughout the blank, line speed at all distances, ability to fish any fly line

Scott Sector

Apart from the G Series, there is no fly rod that exemplifies the Scott design ethos more than the Sector. It is obvious to those within the industry that Rod Designer Jim Bartschi moves slowly and purposefully. He is one of those guys who doesn’t speak often, but when he does, everyone listens. When introducing a new fly rod, his goal is for it to stand at the top for a decade, or possibly longer. The Sector, introduced in 2019, is a marvel of design and performance. Some say it has “ideal saltwater action.” An incredibly broad range of anglers love these rods. Countless Telluride Angler customers have purchased multiple rods in the series after fishing their first. As casters and rod reviewers, we notice that Sectors cast the most popular fly lines better than other rods, including flats classics such as the SA and Rio Bonefish tapers.

Defining characteristics: perfectly tuned to their line weights, progressive action, sensational range

G.Loomis NRX+

Descendant of the rods that made G.Loomis famous (GLX, NRX), NRX+ saltwater rods are trusted worldwide for their dependable performance, familiarity to the angler and indisputable power. Like lounging in a favorite armchair, many anglers get comfortable with an NRX+ and never want to leave. They are not the lightest rods in class, nor constructed with jewel box components, but the NRX+ are built to last and built to cast, as we rediscovered in several highly competitive line weights. (Intro 2019)

Defining characteristics: power and stability in challenging conditions, familiarity, durability

Model-by-Model Comparisons

Salt R8 690-4 v. Sector 906-4

A subtle difference in action delineates these fine fly rods. The Sector is a tad stiffer in the butt and mid-section, resulting in a more “classic saltwater action,” in the words of Richard Post. It has more “gas,” and possesses a higher gear. You can lean on this rod, haul it aggressively, fish it with a variety of lines including specialized trout streamer and bass lines, which tend to fold lesser fly rods. The Salt R8 feels a little more “finessey,” in Parker’s appraisal, more oriented toward small flies and probably a better crossover rod for trout, except in the heavy streamer category. Both rods handle a Rio Elite Bonefish and Rio Flats Pro, but the Sector with a Rio Bonefish throws the tightest loops for presenting size #6 and #8 flies on the flats. Both offer plenty of feedback, but the Sage Salt R8 has more “touch,” a possible benefit in the trout arena.

Asquith 790-4 v. Sector 907-4 v. Salt R8 790-4 v. NRX+ 790-4

Only the 12-weight category possesses rods more diverse in character. The Asquith 790-4 defines its series. Light and springy beyond compare, this superhero fly rod would be the preference of any angler, except the grip is the same as on the tarpon rods in the series. It’s thick. If you don’t mind a hefty grip, this rod is among the most spectacular saltwater fly rods you will ever fish. Otherwise, keep reading. The Sage Salt R8 has the lightest, most airy feel of the group. You can’t stomp on the butt section like the Asquith, NRX+ or Sector, so choose this rod for smaller flies and classic flats applications. This would be the ultimate Christmas Island or Belize bonefish rod, but lacks the bottom end of the others. The Sector 907-4 is the opposite. As Rich describes, “it wants you to cast off the butt.” The Sector 907-4 is ideal for someone with a relaxed casting stroke, or for fresh/salt crossover with large flies. It is probably the best bass bug rod under comparison, for example, while still a lovely rod for bones or redfish. If you fish a heavy-headed redfish line, the Sector 907-4 is your rod. The NRX+ falls into the “workmanlike” category, “old school,” according to Parker Thompson, “stiff from tip to butt.” “You have to stay on it,” according to Rich. We all agreed that the NRX+ 790-4 needs the head weight of a Flats Pro line to bring it to life, which is telling. It tolerates a strong double haul and outright needs one with an SA or Rio Bonefish taper. This rod is a popular choice among freshwater anglers who use super aggressive streamer lines for transporting articulated streamers, Zonkers, pike and bass flies.

Sector 908-4 v. Salt R8 890-4 v. Asquith 890-4 v. NRX+ 890-4

This contentious group of fly rods could start a barfight, probably has. It earned our recognition for “muddiest category,” a cohort of 8-weights that proudly demonstrates the state of the art. If you own an 8-weight and it’s not one of these, you’re missing something.

The Asquith offers the greatest possible line speed without bumping to the next line weight. It toes the line, however, because with a standard bonefish taper, the ASQ 890-4 requires a strong double haul for greatest distance and pretty loops. It responds to power better than any comparable rod, but also requires precision input from the caster. We cast it with a Rio Bonefish Taper and Rio Flats Pro, the latter of which brought it to life in the hands of every caster, including Duncan, who sometimes appears asleep at the wheel. By comparison, the Sector is more finely tuned to its line weight and purpose. The Asquith has more top end potential, but nothing casts a Rio Elite Bonefish as intuitively as the Sector 908-4. If Rio were to describe the way this line is intended to present a fly, the preferred rod would be the Sector. Ranginess and loop control are unequalled with the Sector, a remarkable fly rod that seems born for bonefish. The Sector doesn’t like the Rio Flats Pro, so it may not perform as well as the Asquith with a Rio Outbound or other shooting-style line, but for true-to-line-weight fly lines, it’s a truly refined rod.

So here comes the Salt R8 890-4, one of our favorite rods in that series. It feels stiffer than the Sector but less than the Asquith. Whereas the Sector and Asquith both flex progressively (evenly, based on the amount of line in the air), the Salt R8 has a distinct sweet spot high on the blank. It’s a prototypical “tip casting rod,” but unlike its genetic forerunners, it’s an easy rod to cast. With a Rio or SA Bonefish Taper, a moderate double haul produces explosive line speed and the tightest loops you can imagine. In the end, it casts and fishes much like the Sector, just 5% stiffer. It feels even lighter than the Sector, but the caster needs to be a little more “on it,” as Rich would say. The Sector is better short and extra-long, but the Salt R8 is magic in the fishy 40’-60’ zone.

We cast the NRX+ 890-4 last in this group and it made us go back to the beginning and re-cast the other three rods. This is the best rod in the NRX+ series. While not as light and playful as the others, it is perhaps the most stable and “automatic” of them all. I had mis-pegged this rod as one that required overlining, or overpowering in the cast. Not so. It’s stiff enough to be better with a Flats Pro than with a regular Rio or SA Bonefish taper (the Rio Flats Pro is extra-heavy in the head), but casts all of these with some of the nicest loops you’ll ever see come out of a fly rod and with the greatest stability and accuracy of any rod under comparison. It’s not light or sweet in the tip, but the casting capabilities of this rod are undeniable. It is the best “large fly” rod in the group, too, so pike/musky/striper anglers take note. This is the night train.

Sector 909-4 v. Asquith 990-4 v. Salt R8 990-4 v. NRX+ 990-4

Since 9-weights are the new 10-weights for permit, we cast the rods in this category with a Rio Elite Permit and Rio Flats Pro, both of which require a rod with torsional stability and plus power to deliver a wind-resistant fly. Since we didn’t compare these rods with a Rio or SA Bonefish line, we feel compelled to observe that the Scott Sector 909-4, paired with a Bonefish taper, is perhaps the single finest 9-weight saltwater fly rod we’ve ever cast, without variance in our opinions.

9-weights are such versatile rods, the preferred line weight for countless species and one that crosses over from bones and reds to permit, stripers, roosterfish, baby tarpon and golden dorado. The Sector 909-4 throws a Rio Elite Permit as well as any fly rod. It picks up a very long line for easy second shots, critical in permit fishing. True to the series, this progressive action rod lacks the raw butt section strength of the Asquith or Sage Igniter, so there could be better rods for casting heavy shooting heads over the surf from steep beaches, but for flats applications, it’s the rod to beat. The Loomis Asquith is the stiffest rod in class, fishing like a 9 ½ weight, but offers the greatest line speed with adequate input from the caster. It also handles the heaviest specialty lines, such as the Rio Outbound, better than any of the others. The Rio Elite Permit underlines the rods slightly, but a firm haul loads and delivers spectacular loops and line speed. Choose the Sector for a combination of bonefish and permit. Choose the Asquith for permit and striped bass, if you fish bass from the beach.

The Salt R8 is built for comfort rather than speed. Ideal for all day casting, we recommend this rod with heavy lines, including the Rio Flats Pro, for repetition casting. It’s an excellent boat striper rod, for example, and also an excellent jungle rod, where you might cast all day for a golden dorado or two.

The NRX+ 990-4 casts like a Cadillac in overdrive. It is the heaviest rod in hand, but impressive at distance and in complete control with any fly line. Loop shape is outstanding with a Rio Permit line, but it has plenty of bottom end for the Rio Flats Pro, Outbound Short or SA Titan Taper lines.

Asquith 1090-4 v. NRX+ 1090-4 v. Salt R8 1090-4 v. Sector 9010-4

Parker sums it up well by observing that both Loomis rods have a “big game feel,” fishing at the top of their line class, leaning into tarpon territory. They have very stiff butt sections that feel like they were designed independently from the rest of the rod for the exclusive purpose of fighting heavy fish. This creates a slight feel of disconnection between the hand and fly line, but the power of these two rods is undeniable.

We cast all four rods with a Rio Elite Permit line and a Flats Pro. The Asquith was the best rod with the Flats Pro, but we noticed that line speed and presentation were better on all rods with the Elite Permit taper. The Asquith is the best rod for 2nd shots as the lower rod’s stiffness rips line off the water with authority, but this rod loses its trademark “springy” feel beyond 70’ on the cast. It is outstanding for aggressive beach fishing for heavy striper and roosterfish applications, where the caster is inherently overpowering the rod and needs to hold the line extra high to clear the surf. The NRX+ has a stiff butt, soft mid-section and stiff tip. It feels “hinged,” always wanting to cast from the middle of the rod, automatic in the 40-60’ range but not as light or playful as the Sage or Scott. Both Loomis rods emphasize power over presentation.

The Scott and Sage are both better permit fishing rods, and better all-day casters for false albacore, striped bass, etc. The Sector is the easiest casting but least powerful rod in the group. Being a 10-weight, it has plenty of power for permit and will be an excellent choice for less experienced casters and those who simply don’t possess a powerful casting stroke. The Salt R8 requires more input from the caster, but generates higher line speed and handles both the Permit taper and Flats Pro line with authority, whereas the Flats Pro is too heavy on the Sector. The Salt R8 feels lightest of the group and casts tight loops in the greatest range. It’s a powerful, nimble rod that best embodies the 10-weight saltwater class.

Sector 9011-4 v. Asquith 1190-4 v. Salt R8 1190-4 v. NRX+ 1190-4

The Sector is outstanding with both the Rio Flats Pro and Rio Elite Tarpon line, loading just the right amount on each swing for shots at any distance. It has the greatest range of any rod in this group, from shortest to longest. Butt section power is spectacular without making the rod heavy or clunky. This is a marvel of progressive-fast rod design. The Asquith 11-wt fishes like an 11 ½-wt. It is probably the best fish-fighter in the group, the best 11-weight for Boca Grande and other places where 100lbs+ tarpon are common. It has the most butt section resilience for second shots, but the rod feels underlined when starting a cast fly-in-hand. For many anglers, it would take a few extra swings to generate line speed. This is a great rod for guys who hammer their cast. The NRX+ is actually springier than the Asquith, especially with the heavy-headed Rio Flats Pro. It is one of the most progressive rods in the NRX+ series, reminiscent of the 8-weight, casting well in a really wide range, but it’s also the heaviest rod in this group. The Salt R8 requires a long, strong stroke. It’s bouncy on short casts, but accuracy and line speed come when you dig into the butt section. You can’t tip-cast this rod, nor stab it into the wind, but it casts a variety of lines quite well at distance. Of all the rods in this series, the Salt R8 1190-4 will draw the most mixed reviews. Cast it before you buy it.

Sector 9012-4 v. Asquith 1290-4 v. Salt R8 1290-4 FG v. NRX+ 1290-4

The Sector 9012-4 is unique from the other 12-weights. In our hands, it’s underpowered for this line class, easy to load but hard to cast with power and command. The butt section is certainly stiff enough to fight large tarpon, but the angler should choose this rod only if seeking the slowest action tarpon rod available. Consider fishing it with an 11-weight line.

The Asquith, on the other hand, provides the most casting and fish fighting power while somehow also being the lightest rod in class. The only caveat is that the caster needs to throw with power and confidence. That’s the inherent nature of 12-weight fishing, of course, but the Asquith 1290-4 is a rod that asks for power and delivers power. It is, quite simply, a mind-blowing fly rod. The NRX+ isn’t far behind, surprisingly springy and intuitive with a heavy-headed line, like the Flats Pro. It’s notably heavier than the Asquith or Salt R8, but throws well at distance.

The Salt R8 1290-4 is a surprising favorite in this group. While not quite as powerful as the Loomis rods, it provides an excellent balance of castability and command. Light for a 12-weight, it has greater stability than the Sector #12 or the Salt R8 1190-4. We were surprised at how well it handled both the Rio Elite Tarpon and Rio Flats Pro, the latter of which felt heavy and clunky on many rods that we cast on this day. Range and feel are excellent and the rod has enough stiffness in the butt to pick up line for second shots, always critical in tarpon fishing.

[Fly Rods Page] [Scott Sector Page] [Sage Salt R8 Page] [G.Loomis Asquith Page] [G.Loomis NRX+ Page]

WHITETAIL DEER GLAND KNOWLEDGE

KNOW THE 8 GLANDS!

If you took a test right now on deer glands, how would you do? Do you know how many glands a whitetail deer has? Do you know where each gland is located? Do you know the function or purpose of each gland? If you are not sure how to answer any of these questions, you are not alone.

Over the last decade, I have been making mock scrapes and using only three glands lures. After learning more about some of the other glands, a whitetail uses to communicate with I have added more lures to my hunting arsenal. Let me help you understand the eight glands of a whitetail, their purpose and how BuckStik Products Utilizes and presents the three main communication glands creating the most powerful Communal Mock Scrape System on the Market.

GLANDS ON THE LEG

Interdigital Gland

Whitetail deer have an interdigital gland between their hooves on each foot. To see this gland, you will have to spread the deer’s hoof apart and look between them. Between the hoof, there is a small hole that allows the interdigital gland secretion to come out.

Each deer has a distinct odor. The interdigital gland allows deer to identify one another. Each time a deer takes a step, it releases a small amount of the gland secretion. Why is this so important?

The importance of the interdigital gland allows a mother to locate their fawns. Bucks can find a doe bed, check it, and follow a doe that might be in estrus. Non-receptive does will be on high alert when they smell the interdigital gland lure from a cruising buck. Deer know their home range well and like to know there are no intruders.

This is one of the three main glands BuckStik utilizes at the ground level during the season.

Metatarsal Gland

The metatarsal gland is located on the outside of a whitetail deer’s back legs. About five to six inches above the deer’s rear hooves is a white tuft of hair. Inside of the hair is an opening that is a duct for the metatarsal gland.

The metatarsal gland will give off an aggressive odor during the rut to warn other bucks in the area. Each deer will have a unique scent that it will give off. Bucks can become familiar with the individual odor of each other. The metatarsal gland seems to be larger in deer that live further north. Some biologists claim that deer are no longer using this gland. I am not sure what to think because I use the gland lure for hunting almost every year.

Tarsal Gland

A whitetail deer has two tarsal glands that are located inside the deer’s hind legs. You can find the tarsal glands where the deer’s back legs bend. The large tufted of lightly-colored hair sticks out and is strategically placed for the deer to create a unique scent specific to that deer.

Because of the unique odor hunters can sometimes smell a buck before they see him. The pungent odor is always most potent during the rut when the deer are making scrapes. When a buck is worked up, the hair on the tarsal glands can stand erect as a sign of aggression or dominance. Some deer biologists believe the tarsal gland scent can signal a doe that a buck is ready to breed.

GLANDS ON THE HEAD

Nasal Gland

The nasal glands are inside the deer’s nose. Biologists describe the glands as being shaped like almonds. The nasal glands are essential for deer. Hunters know deer rely heavily on their noses to help them detect odors in the air. But there is another vital purpose for the nasal gland.

The primary purpose of the nasal gland is to detect odors in the air to help deer survive. Deer are constantly checking the air and walking into the wind, so they know what is around them. A deer’s nose is far better than their eyes!

The second purpose of the nasal gland is two-fold. The gland lubricates the nasal passage, which allows deer to detect scents. The lubricant from the nasal gland can help deer leave their scent on licking branches.

Preorbital Gland

A deer has two preorbital glands that are just below the corner of their eyes. The preorbital gland has two different glands located in the tear duct. The sudoriferous and sebaceous glands are the glands inside of the duct. The preorbital glands are controlled by muscles and can open wider to emit an odor.

The primary purpose of the preorbital gland is a tear duct that helps lubricate the eyes. Deer will often put a licking branch in the corner of their eye. The preorbital gland will open and let the liquid from the gland cover the branch. Biologists believe this is a way that deer will self-mark areas. Older bucks often have preorbital glands that are more defined, which may be a sign of aggressive behavior towards other deer.

This is the primary gland that is used year round with the BuckStik/BuckBranch. A single spray elevated off the ground on the vine/ropes/leaves produce the greatest effect.

Forehead Gland

The forehead glands are located above the eyes and between the antlers of a buck. A doe also has forehead glands above their eyes and between their ears. The glands will start to produce an oily substance in September. As the rut moves on, the glands will secrete more oils. The secretion will cause the hair on the buck’s forehead to get darker and even reddish.

The purpose of the forehead glands on a buck is essential. As a deer marks a tree with the oily substance, it leaves some information for the other deer in the area. A deer can learn three things from a rub: First, a deer can determine the age of the deer, making the rub. Secondly, a rub can explain a deer’s social status. Finally, it can communicate to other deer its breeding status.

An older buck secretes more oils from his forehead glands. Thus, older deer will mark more trees. Some biologists believe that forehead gland secretion has a pheromone that can help a doe come into estrus.

Lastly, the Forehead gland completes the 3 gland communication system with the BuckStik. A single Spray on the forehead strip of the BuckStik will have your Bucks both young and old rubbing all day long.

Salivary Gland

The salivary gland is inside the mouth of the deer. The glands are on the roof of the deer’s mouth, in their cheeks, and gums. Deer use their salivary glands for more than just digesting food.

The primary purpose of these salivary glands is to produce saliva. The saliva will help a deer digest food it eats and is also vital for marking. Deer will deposit saliva on branches, vegetation, and trees to let other deer know they are in the area. When a deer takes the licking branch in its mouth, it will bite down with their teeth. Biting the branch allows the deer to deposit their scent to the licking branch.

NEWEST GLAND

Preputial Gland

This gland is located in the penal sheath of the buck. It has two primary purposes: lubrication for breeding, and it contains sperm for reproduction. The preputial gland is the newest gland that has been found and studied. Deer biologists believe it to be used for communication during breeding, but there is no hunting use at this time.

In Summary,

These eight glands are used daily in the whitetail world. Some are used more than others, and some are only used during certain times of the year. Deer use non-verbal communication to interact all of the time.

The BuckStik is a true pheromone communication system that ideally presents the Three Main Communication Glands at the ideal height for interaction. By presenting the Preorbital gland elevated in the vine/ropes, the forehead gland in the rubbing strip, and the interdigital gland a ground level it creates the ultimate communal mock scrape system.

Gland Presentation combined the the BuckStik’s ability to capture and hold deer DNA (Gland Secretions, hair) better than anything natural create an amazing communication hub that will last for years. Never again will you have to start over from scratch with a natural branch as the BuckStik lasts multiple seasons.

In the next post, I will give you some strategies on how to use each of the gland lures while hunting.

By Brian Kightlinger