Knock ‘Em Dead — TenPoint Flatline 460

A compact crossbow that’s built to unleash bolts at blistering speeds, TenPoint Crossbow Technologies’ Flatline 460 combines maneuverability, accuracy and hard-hitting impact into one dynamic package. Thanks to its reverse-draw assembly, RX8-Cam system and 14-inch power stroke, this crossbow has a tight profile — only 26.5 inches long and 7.5 inches wide when cocked — yet it’s capable of launching the included EVO-X CenterPunch 16-inch, 400-grain carbon bolts at an impressive 460 fps. The crossbow’s Vector-Quad Cable technology uses four cables instead of two to help eliminate cam lean and produce straight nock travel, while the 16-inch MICRO-TRAC barrel reportedly reduces string contact by 50 percent, furthering string life and boosting downrange accuracy.

The Flatline 460, which weighs 7.5 pounds without accessories, is topped by TenPoint’s EVO-X Marksman Elite 2-8X variable-speed scope that promises precision accuracy out to 100 yards. TenPoint also has teamed with Burris Optics for the Flatline 460 Oracle X, essentially the same crossbow model but topped with Burris’ Oracle X laser-rangefinding scope that produces dead-on aimpoints with the simple push of a button. Other Flatline 460 highlights include the S1 two-stage, zero-creep trigger offering a consistent, crisp 3.5-pound pull and the TEC-TACTICAL stock with adjustable butt plate. The bow, which is available in Veil Alpine Camo, also comes with an integrated string stop system, six bolts, 6-bolt Tech Quiver, Sentry Bowhanger to hang your bow in the stand and a bubble level to prevent canting. TenPoint’s ACUslide cocking and de-cocking system is also included in the package. $2,599.99 (Marksman Elite), $3,299.99 (Oracle X) | tenpointcrossbows.com

Deadly Big-Game Killer — Excalibur Assassin Extreme

The latest addition to Excalibur’s Assassin crossbow line, the Assassin Extreme is more maneuverable than previous models thanks to its reduced weight, yet it still delivers hard-hitting impact and superb accuracy to take down a variety of game. The Micro High-Output Express Limbs and 15-inch power stroke combine to propel bolts up to 400 fps, while the included Charger EXT cranking system reduces cocking effort to 22 pounds. The bow, which weighs 6.9 pounds without accessories and 9.6 pounds fully loaded, is available in Flat Dark Earth finish and comes with a Tact-100 scope, four Quill 16.5-inch bolts, four 100-grain fieldpoints, 4-bolt quiver, R.E.D.S. Suppressors, CeaseFire de-cocking aid and more. A second model, available only at dealers, comes in Flat Dark Earth or Realtree Excape (pictured), with an Overwatch Scope, four ProFlight 16.5-inch bolts, four 100-grain fieldpoints, 4-bolt quiver, R.E.D.S. Suppressors and CeaseFire de-cocking aid. $1,399.99 | excaliburcrossbow.com

New Looks And Feature — Ravin XK7 Series

Ravin Crossbows continues to expand its innovative options for crossbow hunters in 2024 by adding the new XK7 Series, featuring the King’s Camo XK7 pattern and a new Speed Lock feature on the company’s illuminated crossbow scope. An orange ring on the scope that secures the speed dial after the bow is sighted in and calibrated, the Speed Lock is designed to ensure you remain on-target by preventing the scope from moving or accidentally getting bumped out of position during transit. The XK7 pattern and Speed Lock will be available on Ravin’s signature R500 series crossbows, as well as the R10, R10X, R5X, R26X, R29X and R29X Sniper. Price Varies by Model | ravincrossbows.com

Lighter, Faster Constrictor — Bear X Constrictor Pro

The Constrictor Pro from Bear X is lighter, faster and more compact than previous Constrictor models. Only 10 inches wide when cocked (12 inches at rest), this 32-inch-long crossbow boasts a narrow profile yet is capable of achieving blistering bolt speeds of up to 420 fps. The 4-bolt, top-mounting quiver sits on a 360-degree pivot, allowing it to be mounted on the left- or right-hand side of the bow and providing convenient, easy access whether you’re a righty or southpaw. Finish options include Stone/Veil Whitetail and Stone/TrueTimber Strata. The Constrictor Pro weighs 9 pounds with accessories, and it comes with three Bear X TrueX Max bolts, quiver, illuminated reticle/speed-adjustable scope, sling, arrow lube and string wax. $699.99 | beararchery.com

Sneaky Assassin — TenPoint Stealth 450

Billed as TenPoint’s fastest forward-draw crossbow ever, the Stealth 450 sends bolts downrange at up to 450 fps when using the 400-grain bolts that come with the bow. The crossbow checks in at only 6.5 inches wide when cocked, with a length of 33 inches and a weight of 7.5 pounds without accessories. Helping the Stealth 450 achieve its exceptional downrange accuracy are the EVO-X Marksman Elite 2-8X scope and new scope struts that reportedly increase rigidity and strength by 80 percent. The scope struts, along with the longer scope-mounting dovetail, provide exceptional stability for a range of scopes including heavier laser-rangefinding and thermal scopes. The Stealth 450, like all TenPoint models, comes as a fully-assembled, ready-to-shoot package with three Pro Elite 400 Carbon Crossbow bolts, integrated string stop system, 6-bolt Tech Quiver, Sentry Bowhanger, bubble level and more. It also features the ACUslide system for easy cocking of the bow — reducing the draw weight to 5 pounds — and for safe de-cocking. Bowhunters looking for the ultimate in accuracy will appreciate that this crossbow is also available with the Oracle X laser-rangefinding scope from Burris. $2,099.99 (Marksman Elite), $2,799.99 (Oracle X) | tenpointcrossbows.com

Retro Look, Modern Performance — Excalibur Wolverine

Excalibur Crossbow is celebrating 40 years of crossbow excellence this year, and to honor its rich history, the company is paying tribute to its first-ever crossbow with the new Wolverine. This lightweight, dependable bow checks in at just 8 pounds with accessories (6.4 pounds without accessories), measures 31.5 inches long and sends bolts downrange at up to 360 fps. It comes with an Overwatch Scope, R.E.D.S. Suppressors, Rebolt Quiver, four ProFlight 16.5-inch bolts, four 100-grain fieldpoints, a rope cocking and de-cocking aid. Leading the safety features is Excalibur’s CeaseFire technology that ensures the bow can’t be fired unless a bolt is loaded, the safety is off and the trigger is pulled. In keeping with the retro theme, the Wolverine comes in Mossy Oak Bottomland, the pattern that started Mossy Oak more than 35 years ago. $1,099.99 | excaliburcrossbow.com

Lightweight Big-Game Slayer — Wicked Ridge Rampage XS

Wicked Ridge’s lightest crossbow ever, the Rampage XS combines performance, dependability and affordability, making it an excellent choice for new archery hunters and veteran bowhunters alike. Molded from glass-filled polypropylene, the Rampage XS stock features strategic cutouts to reduce bow weight and improve balance. The bow, which is 4 inches shorter than the previous Rampage, marries a 175-pound draw with 11-inch WRX laminated limbs and heavy-duty 5S cams to launch bolts up to 390 fps. Safety features include TenPoint’s Dry-Fire Inhibitor that prevents the string from accidentally firing if a bolt isn’t loaded as well as large safety wings above the foregrip to prevent fingers from accidentally sliding into the flight deck. The crossbow, which is 31.5 inches long and 15 inches wide when cocked, comes in Peak XT Camo. It’s available with either the XS Stock with a built-in ACUdraw cocking device or a tactical stock with an AR-style, adjustable butt stock (2.5 inches of adjustability) and rope sled. The tactical stock setup weighs only 5.8 pounds, while the XS Stock with the ACUdraw checks in at 6.5 pounds. Three bolts and TenPoint’s ProView Scope are also included with the package. $649.99 with ACUdraw; $549.99 with rope sled | wickedridgecrossbows.com

An Invaluable Value — Bear X Domain 410

If you’re on the hunt for a crossbow that’s not only accurate and dependable but also won’t break the bank, the Domain 410 is an excellent option. This new-for-2024 horizontal bow is only 12 inches wide cocked (14 inches at rest) yet features a 185-pound draw weight, helping to send bolts on their way at 410 fps. The bow, which is 35 inches long and weighs 9 pounds with all the accessories, comes as a ready-to-shoot package, complete with three Bear X TrueX Max bolts, illuminated reticle/speed-adjustable scope, manual cocking aid, sling, arrow lube, string wax and more. It’s available in a Stone/Mossy Oak Country DNA finish. $549.99 | beararchery.com

Made For Tight Confines — Exclaibur Micro Extreme

Bowhunters who find themselves in tight spaces such as a ground blind or foliage-rimmed treestand will appreciate the versatility, maneuverability and lightweight design of the Micro Extreme. Designed to propel bolts up to 360 fps, this crossbow measures 31.5 inches long and weighs only 8 pounds fully loaded (6.4 pounds without accessories). CeaseFire technology ensures you can’t accidentally fire the bow without a bolt in place and the safety off, while the heavy duty design means the Micro Extreme is built to last. A Dead Zone scope, R.E.D.S. Suppressors, four Quill 16.5-inch bolts, a 4-bolt quiver, four 100-grain fieldpoints, rope cocker and a CeaseFire de-cocking aid complete the setup. $949.99 | excaliburcrossbow.com

Sleek And Powerful — TenPoint Viper 430

The next step in the evolution of TenPoint’s popular Viper S400, the Viper 430 is 30 fps faster than the original Viper and features a narrower frame (6.5 inches wide when cocked), a big plus when hunting tight areas. TenPoint is able to achieve better velocity and enhanced accuracy with this model via new scope struts that improve stability, RX6-Cams that rotate 340 degrees and an increased power stroke of 13 inches, resulting in bolts flying 430 fps when shooting the 400-grain Pro Elite 400 carbon bolts that come with the package.

As with the majority of newer TenPoint models, the Viper 430 comes equipped with the ACUslide Cocking and De-cocking System, which includes an auto-brake gear system that locks the handle in place if you let go or your hand accidentally slips off while cocking or de-cocking the bow. The crossbow also features the new RangeMaster 100, a 2-7X variable-speed scope that features higher quality glass for better clarity and brightness and aim points out to 100 yards. The Viper 430 comes fully assembled and ready to hit the range, with three bolts, a 3-bolt quiver, Sentry Bowhanger and much more. $1,699.99 (Moss Green), $1,799.99 (Vektra Camo) | tenpointcrossbows.com

Perfect For Any Hunter — Bear X Trance 410

Designed to hit game hard without doing the same to your wallet, the Bear X Trance 410 is accurate, reliable and fast, yet checks in at less than $500. The Trance 410 boasts a narrow profile — only 12 inches wide when cocked (14 inches wide uncocked) — and fires bolts 410 fps thanks to its 185-pound draw weight and 14.5-inch power stroke. The bow sports a black finish and comes with a manual cocking sled. Three Bear X TrueX Max bolts, 4×32 illuminated reticle scope, 4-bolt quiver and sling are all included. $499.99 | beararchery.com

Top-Notch Starter Package — Wicked Ridge Blackhawk XT

A solid option for someone just starting out in crossbow hunting, the Blackhawk XT is not only fast, accurate and affordable, it’s also available with the ACUdraw integrated cocking device that reduces the 175-draw weight to a mere 5 pounds of force, making cocking the bow super easy. Capable of launching bolts up to 380 fps, this horizontal bow measures 35 inches long, 15 inches wide when cocked and weighs 6 pounds without the scope and accessories. It comes with a TenPoint Multi-Line Scope, three Match 400 Carbon Alpha-Nock bolts, 3-bolt quiver and more. In addition to the ACUDraw, the Blackhawk XT is also available with the ACUdraw 50, an integrated rope-cocking device that features self-retracting cords/hooks that magnetically store in the butt stock when not in use. If you want to introduce a youth or new hunter to archery hunting, this entry level model is packed with positives! $549.99 (with ACUdraw), $449.99 (with ACUdraw 50) | wickedridgecrossbows.com

Maintain window panes and other glass objects properly without spots or fingerprints with the best glass cleaning cloths. These clothes are made of microfiber and have an ultra-soft texture that glides over the glass surface without causing any cracks or leaving residue.

Whether it is mirrors, window panels, TV or computer screens, drinking glasses, or other glass surfaces, these products can leave them spotless with a few wipes. They are also eco-friendly as they can be washed and reused. Also, they do not need any harmful chemicals to clean the surfaces. You can dampen the cloth in water for a lint-free, easy cleaning.

So, go through our list to pick the right glass cleaning cloth for your home.

12 Best Glass Cleaning Cloths

1. Best For Delicate Surfaces: MagicFiber Microfiber Cleaning Cloths

Designed to keep your glass objects squeaky clean, the MagicFiber microfiber cleaning clothes remove oil, fingerprints, dirt, dust, and smudges without using any chemical cleaners. The saw-tooth pattern and fused edges prevent the formation of frayed edges and loose strings. They keep your glassware, glasses, camera lenses, watches, television, laptops, baby toys, etc., sparkly clean. Reviewer Caesar from Caesar’s Critiques says, “They are six by seven inches and are individually wrapped. I like the fact that it’s not going to leave anything on the glass. It cleans like a champ-my glasses are nice and crystal clear.” They can easily fit camera bags, eyeglass cases, tablet cases, and laptop sleeves. Try this glass-cleaning microfiber cloth for a lint-free, streak-free, and scratch-free cleaning experience. This video review, showcasing a tester testing this product, can help you make an informed decision.

Pros

• Safe on delicate surfaces
• Made of high-quality material
• Eco-friendly microfiber towels
• Hand-washable and reusable
• Easy to grip

Cons

• May be slightly thicker than expected
• May be smaller than expected

2. Best Scratch-Free: Care Touch Microfiber Cleaning Cloth

The high-quality microfiber cleaning cloth can help clean eyeglasses, TVs, computer monitors, laptops, tablets, smartphones, etc. The soft material leaves a smudge-free, clean, and smooth surface, eliminating dirt and dust without leaving any lint or streak from the material on delicate surfaces. You can use them for various optics and they can help you clean easily without any chemicals or cleaning solutions.

Pros

• Individually wrapped
• Machine wash-compatible
• Long-lasting
• Quick-drying
• Lightweight

Cons

• May be smaller than expected
• May get dirty quickly

3. Best High-Absorbent: MR.Siga Microfiber Cleaning Cloths

MR. Siga microfiber cleaning clothes deliver spotlessly clean surfaces with their innovative, safe, and hygienic cleaning materials without using any toxic chemical substances. They are extremely soft and skin-friendly. They are non-abrasive cleaning clothes that will not scratch items or scrape paint, coatings, or other surfaces. These multipurpose microfiber towels can be efficiently used as kitchen towels, bathroom towels, floor mops, car towels, and window/mirror cloths. They can be efficiently used to keep glassware, mirrors, laptops, mobile phones, television, etc. polished and clean. These generously sized glass cleaning microfiber cloths can be washed and reused multiple times. Its variants are available in four vibrant colors of yellow, blue, maroon, and green. If you are still unsure, check out this honest review showcasing a tester’s experience with the product.

Pros

• Made of polyester and nylon material
• Long-lasting and reinforced edges
• Quick-drying fabric
• Machine and hand washable
• Lightweight

Cons

• May be slightly rough to use
• May be thinner than expected

4. Best For Oil Smudges: Aidea Microfiber Glass Cleaning Cloth

Available in bright and attractive colors, the soft microfiber cloth by Aidea ensures streak-free shine on surfaces, leaving no scratches behind. The tight weave leaves no wiping or cleaning stains. Made of 85% polyester, its high absorption power is coupled with quick-drying, which saves time and makes cleaning super easy. It can help you remove dust, fingerprints, and oil smudges on surfaces like glasses, goblets, mirrors, watches, smart devices, and stainless steel like magic.

Pros

• Lint-free
• Non-abrasive
• Machine washable
• Durable

Cons

• Fabric may snag with use
• May not be suitable for thick layers of dirt

5. Best Anti-Smudge: Xthel Microfiber Cleaning Cloths

For a lint-free and streak-free shine, the Xthel Microfiber Cleaning Cloths, with super absorbent capacity, are the best choice. These extremely soft & gentle cleaning cloths easily remove dust and grime, oily fingerprints, and leave no streaks or residue. Made of high-quality tightly woven microfiber material, they don’t smudge the surface and leave it looking amazingly new. They contain no harsh chemicals and are completely safe to be wiped on your prized electronics like camera lenses, laptops, mobile phones, iPad, LCD TV screens, etc. Besides, these reusable microfiber clothes are also long-lasting and sustainable.

Pros

• Saw-tooth patterned edges
• Prevents fraying
• Have a silky sheen
• Does not allow the dust to settle down
• Doesn’t scratch surfaces
• Machine washable

Cons

• May not withstand rough use
• May be slightly thick

6. Best Oversized: Elite Tech Gear Microfiber Cleaning Cloth

The high-tech microfiber cloth by Elite Tech Gear makes cleaning both large and small surfaces a cinch. Available in a pack of six, it features five large 6 x 7-inch and one oversized 12 x 12-inch cloths, perfect for your eyeglasses, iPads, smartphones, windows, mirrors, and much more. The microfiber lens cleaning cloth comes in individual packaging, making it easy to carry around in your daily or travel bags or eyeglass case. Easy to use with little pressure or effort, they leave no spots, scratches, smudges, or streaks on surfaces.

Pros

• Smooth texture
• Thick and durable
• Can be washed fifty times
• Available in many sizes

Cons

• May not be suitable for machine wash
• May begin to shed over time

7. Best Multipurpose: Homexcel Microfiber Cleaning Cloths

Featuring a grid pattern, the Homeexcel microfiber cleaning cloth traps dust, dirt, liquid, and debris and wipes out all stains and smudges effectively. Made from 87% polyester and 13% polyamide, the cloths are scratch-free, non-abrasive, and suitable for almost all household surfaces. Be it windows, furniture, kitchen tops, cars, electronic gadgets, or delicate surfaces—the soft, super-absorbent cloth does its job well.

Pros

• Lint-free
• Lightweight
• Quick-drying cloths
• Machine washable

Cons

• May have to be washed before use
• Some may find the cloth thin

8. Best Lint-Free: SmoTecQ Microfiber Glass Cleaning Cloth

The SmoTecQ Microfiber Glass Cleaning Cloth is uniquely blended fiber weaved for optimal softness, durability, and absorption. These cleaning cloths can effectively remove dust, oil, smudges, fingerprints, and dirt. They are safe to clean delicate surfaces of smartphones, glasses, laptops, car screens, lenses, and glassware. These small microfiber towels can help you ace the test of cleanliness as they leave no smudges, streaks, or smears on surfaces. Available in assorted colors of black, gray, yellow, blue, green, and pink with two clothes of each color, these microfiber glass cleaning cloths are attractive, convenient, and economical.

Pros

• Saw-tooth edges
• Hand washable and reusable
• Lint-free
• Environmentally friendly

Cons

• May be slightly thinner than expected
• May shrink slightly over time

9. Best Reusable: Care Touch Microfiber Lens Cloth

Fashioned for keeping the delicate surfaces of your expensive lenses and optics clean, the Care Touch Microfiber Lens Cloth is made with an extra-fine microfiber cloth with durable material. This microfiber eyeglass cleaning cloth is gentle on dainty surfaces. The edges of this superior cleaning cloth are heat-treated to prevent the sides from fraying. This versatile cleaning cloth works amazingly on glass and metal surfaces. It can be used to clean crystal, camera lenses, watches/jewelry, and glasses and effectively removes fingerprints, smudges, and dirt particles. They work well on anti-reflective, transition, anti-fog, and other coatings. These clothes are reusable and machine-washable.

Pros

• Ultra-soft
• Lint-free
• Safe for wiping all glass surfaces
• Saw-toothed edges
• Does not fray

Cons

• May be slightly smaller

10. Best For Different Surfaces: Optix 55 Microfiber Cloths

Designed for the cleanliness-loving person in you, the Optix 55 Microfiber Glass Cleaning Cloths are superior tools for cleaning and germ removal from glass objects. They pick up light dust and germs easily and are safe to be used on all types of surfaces – smartphones, tablets, TV screens, laptops, and camera lenses. These multipurpose cleaning cloths can be used at home, workplace, and inside the car. They are lightweight and lint-free. You can use this glass wipe cloth without having to use harmful chemicals or sprays for spotlessly clean surfaces. They can be washed to retain their original color, making them ideal for daily use.

Pros

• Removes fingerprints
• Leaves no streaks and residue
• Individually wrapped in vinyl pouches
• Soft and delicate
• Long-lasting

Cons

• May be slightly rough for certain glass surfaces

11. Best Non-Fading: Metene Microfiber Cleaning Cloth

Made of a high-quality microfiber blend, the soft cloth by Metene helps you clean your belongings with utmost care. The cloth rids a variety of surfaces of dirt, debris, grease, and moisture, leaving surfaces streak-free, scratch-free, and bacteria-free. They have no harsh chemicals and are safe for use on expensive gadgets such as camera lenses, tablets, laptops, and iPads. Each cloth is carefully packaged individually for convenient use and is easy to carry in your pocket, purse, or eyeglass case.

Pros

• Lint-free
• Does not fade
• Available in several colors
• Safe on delicate surfaces
• Can be washed 600+ times

Cons

• May not be suitable for stubborn stains

12. Best Non-Abrasive: Zerla Microfiber Glass Cleaning Clothes

Made with high-density microfiber guaranteeing maximum cleaning with minimum residue, the Zerla microfiber glass cleaning clothes have high tensile strength and facilitate superior cleaning. The non-abrasive design does not scratch surfaces, paints, furniture, stainless steel, or clear coats. Best for cleaning and dusting the kitchen, home, car, bath, and glasses, they can handle the toughest of grease, dirt, dust, and spills while remaining safe on all surfaces. These cleaning cloths can be machine washed often to remove trapped dirt, dust, and grease and can be used multiple times. They are high heat and fire-resistant and free of any chemical compounds.

Pros

• Provides lint- and streak-free results
• Reinforced edges
• Absorbs water eight times its weight
• Made of polyester and polyamide material

Cons

• May be slightly stiff
• May be somewhat textured

Paula Tarling, an experienced domestic cleaner and influencer, says, “Glass cleaning cloths are also great for keeping your taps and tiles shiny. Always wash the cloths on a hot wash and never use fabric softener as it can ruin the cloths’ absorbency.”

How To Choose The Right Glass Cleaning Cloth?

These are some points to keep in mind while choosing a glass cleaning cloth.

1. Water absorbency: The first thing to keep in mind while selecting a glass cleaning cloth is to check how much water the cloth can absorb. A cloth with high absorbency provides cleaner surfaces and does not leave any smudge or strain. These cleaning cloths can be washed for regular use.
2. Material used: The material used is another important factor. Glasses require special care and cleaning cloths made of microfiber are the best. They are soft, super absorbent, and have the tensile strength to clean grime, dust, and fingerprints.
3. Washable: Another key feature to consider is that the cloth should be either hand-washable or machine-washable. The cleaning cloth accumulates a lot of dirt and grime and needs to be cleaned regularly. Once washed, they can be used multiple times for spotless cleaning.
4. Size: Glass cleaning clothes of different sizes are available in the market. It is important to choose the right size for your cleaning purpose. Window panes will require large cleaning clothes while a small-sized cleaning cloth will suffice for spectacles, iPhone, iPad, camera lenses, etc.

Why Trust MomJunction?

After careful research and analysis, we have curated this list of the best glass cleaning cloths. These cleaning cloths have been chosen after going through numerous user reviews and ratings on several trustworthy websites to ensure quality and easy usage. We have also included an informative buying guide and offered some tips on how to choose the right product based on factors such as material, absorbency, and maintenance.

Finding Your Ideal Baitcasting Reel: A Buyer’s Guide

Baitcasting reels are an essential piece of equipment for any serious fisherman. These reels are designed to give anglers greater control over their casts. They are typically used for targeting larger fish species, such as bass, musky and pike. Unlike spinning reels, which are designed to be easy to use, baitcasting reels require a bit more skill to operate. With practice, however, you can achieve greater casting distance and accuracy.

While the right baitcasting reel can help you cast further with greater accuracy, with so many different models and brands available, it can be difficult to know what to look for when selecting your new reel. In this buyer’s guide, we’ll go through each of the key features you should consider when choosing a baitcasting reel, so you can make an informed decision.

How To Choose the Right Baitcasting Reel

Gear ratio

The gear ratio is the number of times the spool rotates for each turn of the handle. It determines how quickly you can retrieve your line and how much power you have when reeling in a fish. A higher gear ratio means a faster retrieve, but with less power. A lower gear ratio means slower retrieval but more power. When choosing a gear ratio, consider the type of fishing you’ll be doing and the size of the fish you’re targeting.

Line capacity

Line capacity refers to the amount of fishing line the spool can hold. It’s important to choose a reel with enough line capacity for the type of fishing you’ll be doing. For example, if you’ll be fishing in deeper waters or targeting larger fish, you’ll need a reel with a higher line capacity.

Drag system

The drag system determines how much resistance the fish feels when it pulls on the line. A good drag system is essential for reeling larger fish without breaking your line. Look for a reel with a smooth drag system that’s easy to adjust.

Bearings

Bearings are important for smooth operation and the longevity of the reel. The more bearings a reel has, the smoother it will operate. Opt for a reel with high-quality bearings that are corrosion-resistant.

Brake system

The brake system is designed to prevent backlash and ensure accurate casting. There are two types of brake systems: magnetic and centrifugal. Magnetic brakes are easier to adjust but may not be as effective in windy conditions. Centrifugal brakes are more effective in windy conditions but may be harder to adjust.

Handle material and grip

The handle material and grip are important for comfort and control. Look for a reel with a comfortable grip that’s easy to hold, even when wet. Handles made from materials like cork or EVA foam are popular choices.

Frame and body construction

The frame and body construction of a baitcasting reel can affect its durability and weight. Look for a reel with a lightweight but strong frame and body. Materials like aluminum and graphite are popular choices for high-quality reels.

Weight distribution

The weight distribution of a reel can affect how it feels in your hand and how easy it is to cast. Look for a reel with a balanced weight distribution that feels comfortable to hold and cast.

Anti-reverse system

An anti-reverse system is designed to prevent the handle from turning backward when you’re reeling in a fish. This can help you maintain tension on the line and prevent the fish from escaping. Look for a reel with a high-quality anti-reverse system that’s easy to engage and disengage.

Line guide system

The line guide system helps prevent your line from tangling and ensures smooth casting. Look for a reel with a high-quality line guide system that’s easy to adjust.

Price point

Baitcasting reels can range in price from less than $50 to several hundred dollars. While a more expensive reel may offer better features and durability, it’s important to choose a reel that meets your needs and fits your budget.

Brand reputation and customer reviews

When choosing a baitcasting reel, it’s important to consider the reputation of the brand and read customer reviews. Look for a brand with a good reputation for quality and customer service. Reading customer reviews can give you an idea of how well the reel performs in real-world fishing situations.

It is easy to forget the days like the one the duck hunters died. It is easy to forget that there was a time—not so very long ago, really—when there was no Gore-Tex, no Thinsulate, no neoprene and no polypropylene for duck hunters. There was a time when outboard motors, far from the sleek and powerful marvels of today, were crude, cumbersome beasts, unreliable under the best circumstances and all but useless under the worst. There was a time when there were no cell phones, no emergency beacons, no Flight for Life helicopters.

There was a time, too, when there were no weather satellites, no telemetry to provide data that could be plugged into sophisticated formulas and fed into supercomputers for timely forecasts. Indeed, that the weather could be predicted with any degree of accuracy then—November 1940, to be precise—seems almost miraculous, meteorology in those days being one part science and two parts the divination of omens, signs and portents. Nothing brings this into starker relief than the fact that, a little more than a year later, what appeared on radar to be a swarm of aircraft approaching the Hawaiian Islands was dismissed as some sort of malfunction by military officers who refused to trust this newfangled and unproven technology.

Of course, some things do not change with the passage of time, and one of those constants is the love of duck hunters for the kind of wet, raw, blustery, thoroughly miserable days that keep normal people indoors with the fireplace crackling and the teakettle whistling on the stove. And just as absence makes the heart grow fonder, the longer the duck hunter is made to wait for such a day, the hotter burns his pent-up desire to escape the sloughs and bays and marshes, and there—decoys artfully set, blind brushed and grassed, dog expectant and quivering, call poised to be pressed to lips—scan the lowering skies for birds that ride the wind.

The fall of 1940 had been a mild one in the Upper Midwest, an extended Indian summer of warm temperatures and little rainfall. In other words, the duck hunting had been disappointing. Oh, there had been the usual “local” birds in the early season—teal, wigeon, shoveler, the odd mallard—but without any heavy weather to set the migration in motion, the great flocks of northern ducks were still in the prairie provinces of Canada, fattening up for the long flight south. Hunters throughout the region, from the Dakotas across to Wisconsin, from Minnesota down to southern Illinois, were on pins and needles, knowing that the change in weather they so dearly wanted was overdue, that it could happen any day.

Finally, on Sunday, November 10, came a forecast that held promise. The outlook was for clouds, snow flurries, and colder temperatures. Wildfowlers were ecstatic, and what made this good news even better was that Monday, November 11, was Armistice Day—the predecessor to Veterans Day, and, for many people, a holiday. Although as holidays go it was a fairly somber one. The grinding effect of the Great Depression still lingered in the U.S., and in Europe. There, where just 22 years earlier the eponymous armistice had been signed, war raged once again.

Still, it’s not much of a leap to suppose that the typical waterfowler of the Upper Midwest, upon hearing the forecast on the radio or reading it in the local newspaper, felt blessed—even jubilant. Other concerns were pushed aside; nothing mattered now but getting ready for tomorrow’s hunt. Decoys, shell boxes, shotguns, and calls were checked and rechecked. Ditto for boats, motors, gas tanks, and oars. Clothes were carefully laid out; sandwiches were made, wrapped in wax paper and refrigerated; thermos bottles were placed next to coffee percolators. The dog was given an extra bit of food, because in a few hours he was going to be one busy retriever and would need all the energy and stamina he could muster.

The phone lines hummed as hunting partner called hunting partner, their voices crackling with excitement. They knew, with as much certainty as they knew anything, the ducks would be flying, and they aimed to be smack dab in the middle of them.

They got more than they bargained for.

In his magisterial Where The Sky Began: Land of the Tallgrass Prairie, John Madson describes the genesis of a Midwestern blizzard as a “temperature marriage” of cold, dry polar air sweeping down from Canada and warm, moist subtropical air welling up from the Gulf of Mexico.

“Since its primary component is wind,” Madson wrote, “the classic blizzard is essentially a phenomenon of the open lands—particularly the plains and prairies, where the topography offers little resistance to moving air and the great storms can run almost impeded. There may be more snow in northern and eastern forest regions, and certainly much cold. The difference between winter storms there and the classic prairie blizzard lies in the intensity of unbridled wind that plunges the chill factor to deadly lows, drives a blinding smother of snow during the actual storm, and continues as ground blizzards and white-outs long after snow has stopped falling. Depending on snowfall and wind, the storm may leave drifts three times as tall as a man and is usually followed by calm, silver-blue days of burning cold.”

That, in a nutshell, describes the blizzard that screamed across the Upper Midwest on Monday, November 11, 1940, devastating everything it touched along the way. The winds blasted at a constant 40-50 mph with gusts in excess of 80. More than 16 inches of snow fell in the Twin Cities, while more than 26 inches were recorded a few miles up the Mississippi River near St. Cloud. In LaCrosse, downstream on the Wisconsin side of the Mississippi, the barometric pressure sank to an all-time low. The temperature dropped 30 degrees—from above freezing to single digits—in two hours and continued to plummet from there. Windchills were virtually off the charts.

Nothing escaped the storm’s furious, relentless, indiscriminate wrath. Livestock perished by the hundreds of thousands. So many turkeys died in parts of Minnesota and Iowa that after the storm farmers were selling whole “fresh frozen” birds for 25 cents apiece. The losses to wildlife, especially pheasants, were spectacular. Communications and power were disrupted across thousands of square miles, and transportation was brought to an absolute standstill. Every town and village close to a main road became a refuge as stranded travelers sought shelter from the storm. Countless people opened their homes to complete strangers, providing whatever they could offer in the way of board and room.

But for some there was no shelter, no refuge. Motorists stuck in snowdrifts on remote stretches of road were buried alive in their cars, their frozen bodies not exhumed for days. On Lake Michigan, the freighter William B. Davock was sheared in two by monstrous waves.

The ferocity of the storm was almost beyond human reckoning. There are accounts of farmers who, after checking their livestock, could not find their way from the barn to the farmhouse. Disoriented, pummeled by the wind, with no visible landmarks to guide them, and no sense of east, west, north, or south, they wandered blindly through a roaring white hell. The lucky ones bumped into something recognizable and groped their way to safety. The unlucky ones didn’t.

Nearly everyone who survived the storm remarked on how incredibly difficult it was just to breathe. The air was so laden with moisture that it seemed as thick as syrup. And even when you were able to draw a deep breath, the cold seared your lungs like a red-hot blade.

This is what thousands of duck hunters, with their wooden skiffs and their cranky outboards and their canvas caps, found themselves caught in. Most of the world knows the Midwestern blizzard of November 11, 1940, as the Armistice Day Storm. To sportsmen, it’s simply the day the duck hunters died.

No one really knows how many people lost their lives as a direct result of the Armistice Day Storm. Although Time put the death toll at 159, the actual figure was probably closer to 200—and about half of them were duck hunters. According to John Madson, 85 duck hunters perished in Minnesota, Wisconsin, and Illinois alone. As he wrote in Where The Sky Began, “Caught by the storm with little warning, they drowned as they tried to reach land, or stayed in their duck blinds as waves tore them apart, or simply died of exposure that night on the river islands out of reach of help . . .”

If a storm causing as much destruction and loss of life occurred today, someone like Sebastian Junger or Jon Krakauer would write a best-selling book about it. But while it certainly made headlines—a spread in Life was entitled “Midwest Tempest Strews Death By Land and Lake”—America was preoccupied with other matters. After the dead were buried, the damage was cleared, and the bereaved had ceased to mourn, life resumed more-or-less as usual. And the weather for the remainder of the winter of 1940-’41 was largely unremarkable.

But no one who was there would ever forget it. Nor did their memories, like photos left too long in a show window, pale with the passage of time. It was the persistence of these memories that, 45 years after the event, prompted a Minnesota man named William Hull to track down and interview more than 500 people who’d lived through the Armistice Day Storm. He then selected 167 of these accounts and assembled them into a book called, fittingly, All Hell Broke Loose.

Now in its 18th printing, it’s replete with tales not only of close calls and narrow escapes, but of countless acts of charity, generosity, selflessness, and heroism. (There are a number of humorous, Keillor-esque tales as well, such as the one entitled “Three Hours Digging Path to Outhouse.”) Not a few of these stories were told by duck hunters. While the specifics may differ slightly—some recalled seemingly endless flocks of divers like redheads, bluebills, and canvasbacks, while others remember wave upon wave of mallards—they all agree that they had never seen the sky so full of ducks. They agree, too, that there was nothing in the weather that morning to presage what was coming, that the storm was upon them almost before they knew what was happening, and that it was only by the grace of God that they survived when so many others did not.

Every sportsman who was there has his own wrinkle to add to the story. Cyril Looker of Fremont, Wisconsin,—in the heart of the wildlife-rich Wolf River bottoms—recalls standing on the shore near a power line cut and burning up two boxes of shells as the ducks poured into Partridge Lake. The kicker, notes the 83-year-old Looker, is that the birds—mallards and divers both—were flying beneath the wires.

The account that eclipses all the rest, though—and has made the Armistice Day Storm vividly and chillingly real for generations of sportsmen ever since—is the one written by the great Gordon MacQuarrie. Indeed, it’s entirely likely that if MacQuarrie, then the outdoors editor for the Milwaukee Journal, hadn’t been on the scene, the event would be little more than a footnote in duck hunting history. While a lesser writer might have filed a competent and informative report, MacQuarrie penned a masterpiece.

His story, under the headline “Icy Death Rides Gale on Duck Hunt Trail,” appeared on the front page of the Journal on Wednesday, November 13. It was filed from Winona, Minnesota, a Mississippi River town about 90 miles downstream from the Twin Cities. The river there is a sprawling, two-mile-wide wilderness of islands, oxbows, and backwater sloughs, and Winona was the epicenter of the disaster: At least 20 duck hunters died within 50 miles of the city.

“The winds of hell were loose on the Mississippi Armistice day and night,” wrote MacQuarrie. “They came across the prairie, from the south and west, a mighty freezing force. They charged down from the high river bluffs to the placid stream below and reached with deathly fingers for the life that beat beneath the canvas jackets of hundreds of duck hunters . . .

“The wind did it, the furious wind that pierced any clothing, that locked outboard engines in sheaths of ice, that froze on faces and hands and clothing, so that survivors crackled when they got to safety and said their prayers.

“Mother Nature caught hundreds of duck hunters on the Armistice holiday. She lured them out to the marshes with fine, whooping wind, and when she got them there she froze them like muskrats in traps. She promised ducks in the wind. They came all right, but by that time the duck hunters were playing a bigger game with the wind, and their lives were the stake.

“By that time men along the Mississippi were drowning and freezing. The ducks came and men died. They died underneath upturned skiffs as the blast sought them out on boggy, unprotected islands; they died trying to light fires and jumping and sparring trying to keep warm; they died sitting in skiffs. They died standing in river water to their hips, awaiting help; they died trying to help each other. A hundred tales of heroism will be told, long after the funerals are over.”

MacQuarrie told of Gerald Tarras, a strapping 17-year-old who’d gone hunting in the Mississippi bottoms that fateful day with his father, brother, a family friend, and their black Lab. They set up mid-morning in a drizzling rain; by noon they were trapped by six-foot waves, waves that pounded like huge iron fists and hurled freezing spray that turned instantly to boilerplate ice. The men beat on one another to try to keep warm, but it was a losing battle. At about 2 a.m. the friend uttered one last moan and died in Gerald’s arms. Gerald’s brother held out until 11 in the morning, but after 23 hours of exposure, he, too, succumbed.

Then, shortly after noon, a small plane flew over. Gerald waved, and the pilot signaled that help was on the way. Rescuers in the government tugboat Throckmorton arrived at 2:30—half an hour too late to save Gerald’s father. They found the boy crouched against a stump, holding his dog for warmth, fighting to remain conscious.

Max Conrad, the pilot who led rescuers to Gerald Tarras, was one of the true heroes of the Armistice Day Storm. Dozens of hunters would later acknowledge that they owed their lives to him. On Tuesday the 12th, with the wind still howling but the skies clear, he took off from his hangar in Winona to help find the hunters who hadn’t come home. Flying a redoubtable Piper Cub—and fighting to make even 20 or 30 knots of airspeed against the brutal headwinds—he scanned the frozen margins of the Mississippi for the living, but often as not discovered the dead.

When he located survivors—they were frequently huddled in the lee of a skiff they’d propped up as a windbreak—Conrad would circle low, cut the engine for a moment, and holler “Hang on! Help is coming!” A few minutes later, he’d return and, like manna sent down from heaven, drop a canister filled with sandwiches, whiskey, dry matches, and cigarettes. Conrad would then circle until the Throckmorton or one of the many rescue boats that had deployed in search of survivors could get a fix on the spot. He kept flying until 10 p.m. that night, and he was out again at dawn the following day.

There is no telling how many hunters died for the simple want of dry matches. But even that was no guarantee, as there was still the problem of finding dry fuel to burn. Many a prized Mason decoy went up in flames, and a group of 17 hunters stranded on the same island took turns shooting down limbs for firewood until their ammunition ran out.

The Mississippi River was not the only place where duckboats became sepulchres, of course. Two hunters died on Wisconsin’s Big Muskego Lake, barely 20 miles from downtown Milwaukee. One of these men was alone in his skiff, trapped by waves and ice. Toward the end, another party of hunters glimpsed him standing in his boat with his head tilted back, his arms stretched outwards, and his palms turned up. It was as if he was imploring God—or perhaps commending his soul to Him. While the other hunters, who themselves were fighting to survive, watched helplessly, the man slumped back into his skiff, leaned heavily against the gunwale, and went motionless.

His spirit, like the ducks that drew him out on that terrible day, had flown.

The author wishes to thank Howard Mead of Madison, Wisconsin, for his assistance in providing background research.

Learn the basics of consistently finding and catching perch an exciting opportunity for angling on lake Erie.

I think it’s fair to say that perch often get a bad rap. For a fish that is often plentiful in numbers, relatively easy to catch and amazing table fair, it is an unwarranted depiction to those in the know. You don’t need to be a decorated angler to have success when perch fishing and they are much less fussy than their cousin, the walleye.

While they can be found in decent numbers in a number of Ohio inland waterways, Lake Erie is still the king of perch waters. Here are few things to consider next time you desire some angling fun or just some amazing eating fish fillets.

Where to Find Perch on Lake Erie

One of the best things about perch season is it tends to startup in the early summer when the walleye bite begins to slow, lasting well into the fall. From year to year the larger schools can seem to vary from the Western Basin all the way east to the Ohio boarder. Local bait shops that sell minnows are your best option to get you in the ballpark with which areas have been fishing well closest to you.

Perch are very similar to many species on large bodies of water, they tend to move as their food does and water conditions change. Using 2D sonar and even more modern down imaging sonar is an efficient way to stay on these moving pods of fish. Look for a lot of clutter generally from the bottom and up to four feet off of it. Empty screen means a tough day so spend some time driving around to locate these pods on your sonar before fishing.

Positioning Your Boat for Perch Fishing

Once you locate a school of perch far and away the best method is to hold directly over them vertically. On larger boats this means using a good ole fashion anchor. Smaller trailer boats that are able to be outfitted with a bow mount trolling motor have a big advantage however for their ability to “digitally anchor”. Modern day trolling motors offer an option called “spot lock” which basically allows you to hover in place without doing any more than touching a button. This hands-free option keeps you from having to hoist a heavy anchor up and down. If we are honest, it keeps us from getting lazy and encourages moving to new spots as well.

Choosing Lure for Perch Fishing on Lake Erie

When fishing for many species such as bass the lure options and what anglers carry can be extremely diverse, but that really isn’t the case with perch. Instead, several different variations of a minnow harness are used to fish on bottom with two to three single hooks. Years ago, a traditional spreader wire with two short snelled hook leaders were the overwhelming favorite, but in recent years other rigs that more resemble a crappie rig have dramatically increased in popularity. A crappie or drop shot style rig allows anglers to fish several hooks at different depths above the bottom to cover the water column more easily. Truth is both styles have there day and as compact and inexpensive as they are it is worth having both on hand.

Choosing Live Bait for Perch Fishing

Rather you prefer a spreader or a crappie style rig chances are you are going to bait it with a shiner. Small sized emerald shiners are the most desired bait, but they can be tough to come by at times and difficult to keep alive. Bait shops are often out of emerald shiners and it forces anglers to use the more readily available golden shiners. While not as preferred, they will catch perch but due to their larger size it is often wise to cut them in two, using either the head or tail section on a hook. Pay attention to if the head or tail sections get more bites and make adjustments from day to day and seemingly from hour to hour at times. Another good trick is to salt and freeze leftover shiners for future trips. It’s a good way to make sure you aren’t without bait and can save you some money in the process.

Proper Rod and Reel Setup for Perch Fishing Lake Erie

I think it fair to say you don’t need a high dollar setup for perch fishing, but you do need just the right action. Perch are magicians at striping your hook and you need a rod that has enough power to get them up off the bottom and work a weight heavy enough to keep you down on the bottom. The trick being it needs to also be light enough to feel the slightest tick. For most this means looking at a light power fast action spinning rod spooled with braided line in the 6’ to 7’ range. Braided line has low stretch and makes feeling the slightest tap much easier. A high visibility braided line is also preferred so you can see where your line is and the instant it touches bottom or moves to the side from a lite bite.

Fishing Techniques for Catching Perch on Lake Erie

Perch attitude can go from biting at will to not being able to do anything right at the flip of a switch. Switch weights as conditions change and only use a weight heavy enough to constantly maintain bottom contact and stay vertical. Some days you need to keep the rig right on the bottom, while others you need to keep it off and often just start slowly lifting it to get bites. Some days it needs to be almost motionless and others they seem to want it jigged or moved a little bit. Reality is there is no technique that always works so keep an open mind and pay attention to whatever the person is doing that is getting the most bites in your boat.

The more you perch fish the more nuances you will discover, but you can make it as simple or as complicated as you want. While we can argue that walleye is better than perch or which type of rig to use, we can’t argue that perch are simple, inexpensive to fish for and make amazing table fair. I think this is enough to warrant giving perch a shot this fishing season.

You’ll rack up more ‘coons when the winter heat waves hit — if you follow this trapper’s ways.

By Toby Walrath

When trappers think of midwinter traplines, raccoons aren’t likely the first animal that comes to mind. Cold temperatures and rare track sightings do not make the effort of checking and maintaining traps seem worth the work — especially in northern states. But, by targeting the warmest days of each winter month, trappers can spend less time on the trapline and yield more winter-prime raccoons.

Raccoons are targeted in early fall by most trappers and hunters because that’s when the best weather occurs, but midwinter pelts are the most prime. With the current market situation, only the biggest and best raccoon pelts will sell. From a dollars-and-cents perspective, you can spend far less on fuel and trapping expenses and make a lot more money by trapping fewer prime animals, than you can by trapping many that are under-prime. If you are trapping simply for enjoyment and to get a nice hide for the wall or for craft work, it is still beneficial to trap raccoons when the fur is in its fullest and most beautiful condition. Knowing when to set and when to leave traps sprung can maximize your midwinter trap time and yield more prime fur.

First, raccoon pelts are generally good by the end of October and pelts become heavy by mid-November. It is right around this time — especially in northern states — when raccoons hole up in dens somewhere and become difficult to find. This mild form of hibernation is called torpor, which causes raccoons to do very little and slumber for long periods, while conserving fat stores. As long as temperatures stay cold and the snow piles up, raccoon activity remains pretty much nonexistent until it warms up again. Trappers who pay attention to travel routes in the early part of autumn can capitalize on winter-prime furs when the time is right.

Every winter season experiences a few days or weeks of warm weather. Warmth at this time of year is relative to the cold temperatures found on either side of the warm spell. In some regions of the country, woodsmen know this as a Chinook, or Chinook wind, in other parts it is called a January thaw or an ice eater.

Whatever you call it, there is often a time period when the cold weather of winter is reversed temporarily and the temperatures rise above freezing. It can last for a few days or several weeks and often comes with rain and drizzle. This is when raccoons get on the move looking for food, and when trappers can obtain the best pelts.

Secondly, breeding season for raccoons varies slightly by the latitude of their area, but occurs in the first half of the calendar year, generally reaching its peak somewhere within the time between January and March. Any young males that still remain with the family group will disperse at this time and the big boars go out searching for a mate. When a warm spell aligns with breeding activity, the opportunity for prime winter pelts is optimum.

There is some risk that pelts can become stained with urine at this time of the year, especially if the raccoons are holed up inside tight quarters with several other animals for long periods of time. However, I have trapped many wintertime raccoons that brought premium prices at fur sales, and because of this fact I continue to target them in January and February. I have caught raccoons as late as March in the Northwest that had quality hides.

Most of my trapping effort for raccoons is performed a little differently than it is for other species. This difference is driven by the timing of peak activity, weather and the market. Developing a strategy to maximize my return on investment allows me to be able to afford to trap raccoons every season. To put this into perspective, I can’t afford to spend $50 on fuel and bait to trap one $10 raccoon. I also don’t want to spend the time to check traps five times to catch just one raccoon in the current market, either. This is especially true when I can spend my time trapping bobcats and coyotes that bring a much higher paycheck than raccoons.

So, in order to make money, or at least break even, from trapping raccoons, it is necessary to spend less time and money when the least amount of time is required to catch the most valuable pelts. In order to accomplish this I must catch more fur in less time. This is possible by setting traps only when peak activity is expected. Predicting the timing takes a bit of trial and error, but there are some key factors that help me focus my effort at precisely the best periods to find my raccoon sets full.

A full moon will bring raccoons out more during winter months than a dark moon. Some trappers may debate that statement, but it has been my experience over the years. If the weatherman predicts mild temperatures at or above freezing in the middle of the night and there is also a full moon, I make sure that my trapline is in good working order. But, determining exactly where and how to set up my trapline begins much earlier in the season.

I always keep track of where I see raccoon sign while trapping other species throughout the fall. Muskrat, beaver and mink habitat overlap with raccoons. Much of the best winter raccoon trapping locations are in thick timber with large trees that are adjacent to open farm fields or cattail marshes. These forested areas offer protection and food sources when ponds and creeks are frozen. I search for the travel routes that raccoons use during the fall between the food source and den sites.

It’s important to know that when the temperatures dip down in the autumn months raccoons begin looking for a place to stay long term. The areas where raccoon sign, such as tracks and scat, are found just before freeze-up will be the best places to set traps during the midwinter season. These locations are different than the ones you may be accustomed to in the early fall.

Once the areas are identified, it becomes a waiting game. The frigid winter temperatures come and the snow begins to pile up in late November. That is when I generally switch my trapping efforts to bobcats and marten. But, I keep an eye on the weather, too. Usually somewhere around early January a warm weather system will move into my region and that is when I get ready for raccoon trapping. By then all of my other traplines are in and I have a routine of checking those traps with minimal maintenance, which allows me to dedicate some time to a raccoon line.

I use encapsulated traps, also known as dog-proof traps, or DPs, for raccoon trapping because they are very selective and I don’t have to worry about chewing issues. I can also count on the trap functioning properly and there is very little work required to set them up.

To begin, I travel to the areas where I noted high activity just before freeze-up, and choose the most obvious weatherproof locations. In my area, the ground is rock hard at this time of year, so I use heavy cable with an adjustable loop on one end to wrap around a tree trunk and over my trap.

For bait, I keep it simple by using dry cat food and fish or shrimp oil. Even with above-freezing temperatures during the day, any dip in the mercury could freeze up a trap packed with bait that can freeze. The cat food will not freeze as long as it stays dry, and fish oil is naturally freeze proof. I fill the cat food to just at or below the bottom of the trigger. If it gets wet I will clean it out and replace it with fresh, dry bait.

There are models of DP traps with push/pull triggers that will set the trap off as the raccoon pushes its paw inside, but the ones that I prefer rely on an upward pulling motion. It won’t take much oil and I have utilized homemade sun-rendered oil, commercial fish oil and even fishy smelling oils made for fisherman. As long as the oil is thick and has a strong odor, I will add a teaspoon of it to the cat food and then smear some on a tree within a foot or two of the trap. Precise trap placement is not real critical, but I like to jam the support stake (commonly found on top DP brands) into the soil or duff at the base of the tree when possible, so that the trap is upright at a slight angle. I will always set at least two or three traps within 50 feet or so of each other because I so often see more than one raccoon travelling together. I have caught as many as three very close together, and if I have enough traps I will set as many as six in one premium location.

Next, I’ll wait and check my traps regularly as long as the weather stays above freezing. When temperatures drop again I spring the traps and lay them on their sides to keep any rain or snow out, and forget about them until the weather is predicted to warm up again.

When I know that the weather is going to heat up for a few days, I reset and re-bait all of the traps throughout the entire warm spell again. In this way I am keeping my traps operational only when the raccoons are most likely to be actively searching for food. Most importantly, I won’t waste any time maintaining and checking traps when temperatures are below freezing, because I know that overall raccoon activity will be very limited during those conditions. With my traps already secured to the trunk of weatherproof trees, resetting them is very easy when the time comes.

Midwinter raccoon trapping can produce the best quality hides at a time of the year when food is scarce and their breeding season is ramping up. Those two factors alone should increase the return on a trapper’s efforts. I also like to be the only raccoon trapper working an area, and given the low prices of fall skins and the common thought that winter and raccoon trapping don’t belong in the same sentence — I have enjoyed many productive days afield pursuing prime pelts without seeing any other trappers.

Try trapping raccoons this winter when their fur is at its best and competing trappers are few and far between. You will get more skins and profit for your efforts, while having one more excuse to get outside when others are curled up in bed waiting for spring.

—Toby Walrath is a big-game guide, writer, photographer, hunter and trapper, and can be reached through his Instagram account @walrathoutdoorsphoto.

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Trotline fishing for catfish is a tradition in the South. A weekend camping trip on the river or creek would not be complete without the excitement of slipping out on the water after dark to “run” a trotline and finding a catch of several catfish. Catfish that by the end of the weekend will find their way into some hot grease.

Trotline fishing is relatively simple in theory. A trotline is basically a length of line stretched with the use of a boat, across a section of water and fastened secure at both ends. On this line every three or four feet a hook is dangled from a drop line, essentially making it impossible for a catfish to swim by the line without being tempted by one of the baited hooks. Once “set out” the trotline is left unattended until a few hours later when the trotline is checked, fish removed, and rebaited. Trotline fishing for catfish is most effective after dark because many species of fish which would rob the trotline hook’s of their bait during day light hours often hide at night while the catfish is a very efficient at feeding in the dark. Darkest also, adds an element of anticipation to this type of fishing which is hard to explain. Trotline fishing is a form of fishing which must be tried to appreciate.

Ready made trotlines fishing kits such as the Magic Bait Trot Line are available, complete with all the essentials. These are good if you want to try trotline fishing for the first time or have doubts about how to build a trotline. These kits provide a good understanding on how to rig up and set out a trotline plus they are reasonably priced. However, a trotline is relatively simple to build and somewhat fun. Although all trotlines are fundamentally the same, there are some differences in styles. These differences in styles often relates to how the drop lines, which hold the hooks, are attached to the main stretch line. The drop lines, which are often smaller in diameter, must be attached so it can not slip or slide up and down the main stretch line. Many trotline styles accomplish this by fastening the drop lines to the main line between synthetic clamps or hand tied simple knots. This can become a little tedious and time consuming but is effective.

The style Fishing-Tips-Bait-Tackle.Com prefers was introduced to us by Jimmy, a Hardin County resident in Southeast Texas. Jimmy, who enjoys setting his trotlines around the area where Village Creek joins the Neches River, shares our philosophy that a good fishing tackle tip should inspire angler to “do it themselves” while saving both time and money. His method of making a trotline does just that by using only one size nylon braided line, sturdy snap swivels and quality hooks. Utilizing line at least two hundred pound test, he makes forearm long loops along the length of the line using a simple knot. All loops are spaced a full arm’s length wingspan apart with the first and last loop being about 10 feet from the ends.

These loops are the drop lines, simply attach a snap swivel using a half hitch knot then add a hook to each swivel to complete the trotline. The snap swivels are essential because catfish are notorious for twisting off a hook. Hook size may vary depending on the targeted fish generally between a 2/0 and 6/0. Also any drop line can be left hookless and used as a weight point to fish the trotline deeper.

Jimmy showed us one more little trick with the trotline. Instead of using a bulky racking box or wrapping the trotline around a coffee can he simply rolls the trotline up as if it was a ball of yarn. This makes the trotline easy to handle and store. Plus if you like, the hooks can be removed before making the ball.

Although a trotline can be “set” in any place, some spots may prove more productive than others. For example, a bend in a creek or river where the water is relatively deep, near an area where a slough or small tributary feeds a larger body of water, or if the trotline does not interfere with navigation spanning it across a waterway.

Choose two anchor points along the water to stretch the trotline, anchor the first end to a tree limb, tree root, cypress knee, or anything that will hold the line secure. Tie the line low to or just under the water surface, that makes the trotline less noticeable to any by-passes. Move the boat to the next anchor point, allow the trotline to lay loosely on the water and tie off the other end. Now that the trotline has been “set out”, it can be weighed and baited.

The trotline can be weighted with a large lead sinker, a brick, an old window counter weight or anything else found around the house that is heavy enough yet small enough to manage.

Almost any thing can be used as bait for trotline fishing. Live bait work particularly well; blacktail shiner, crawfish, small bream or even earth worms. Cut bait, a portion of blue crab, chicken livers, or man made stink bait can also be effective. For the best results bait the trotline just before dark and if possible use a variety of bait. Allow the trotline to fish two or three hours before checking for a catch, likewise replace any lost bait. The trotline can be checked several times through out the night or left until morning.

A few safety tips on fishing trotlines are in order. When “setting out” the line, check for critters. Before tying the line off, keep an eye out for a stray snake or a pesky wasp nest.

Although a trotline can be managed by one person we recommend that anglers don’t “go it alone”, especially after dark. Keep a Knife handy, a situation may arise in which a drop line (or even the main trotline) may need to be cut immediately. If an angler is unfortunate enough to have a hook snag a hand this need becomes quite apparent. Also, nothing can be more disappointing than losing a good size catfish before it can be gotten into the boat so take a dip net.

An alternative to the trotline is the limbline. Using the same gear used to make a trotline, the limbline is tied up as if it could be fished from the end of a pole with a single hook, snap swivel, and sinker. Hang the limbline from a flexible limb that extends over a preferred fishing hole. Several limblines can sometimes be as effective as a trotline, however due to the distance between limblines generally more travel is required.

Most states have regulations on trotline fishing so be sure to familiarize yourself with the state rules. These rule may require the line not to be over a particular length or may limit the number of hooks on a line. Some states may prohibit setting a trotline across navigable waterways. Also, some state may limit the time period a trotline can be “set”, or may require name tags. Still, trotline fishing is highly recommended and can be very productive.

Fishing Tackle Tips ~ Fishing Season ~ Fishing Boat Tips Live Bait ~ Artificial Lures ~ Fishing Dictionary

One of the most often-asked questions in bow hunting is what peep sight size should I be using?

Sorry to disappoint, there isn’t a black and white answer that would instantly custom match you with the right peep size for your setup. There are more than a couple factors that you need to consider before you get all gung-ho on going with the smallest or largest size you can find.

Like everything to do with bows, there’s quite a bit that goes into answering this question since it has a lot to do with your setup, hunting style, and vision.

We’ll talk you through the ins and outs of big and small peep sight sizes. By the end, you may be closer to determining what size will do you right in the field whether you’re sticking it out during the day, you’re out at first and last light, in the stand, or long-range hunting.

Peep Sights VS No Peep Sights

You know this has to be addressed. For the many peep users out there, there are just as many that go without. But, what exactly is a peep sight? It’s a string attachment that ensures line of sight alignment between your eye using the peep, sight housing, and the target.

Peep Sight Pros & Cons

Pros:

• Encourages consistent form/anchor point
• Enhance sight picture focus
• Can improve aim and accuracy
• Easy to use
• Inexpensive
• Available in various sizes

Cons:

• Can only use one eye
• Darkens sight picture
• Can twist out of place when string becomes worn

Of course, going peepless also has its own set of benefits. It forces you to become intimately familiar with consistent anchor points so you have the same form when shooting as when you sighted in your bow. You’ll also have instant low light visibility improvement, faster target acquisition time, and obviously you won’t have to deal with any peep sight alignment issues.

However, it takes practice and effort to get used to going peepless and making it an effective move on your part. Heavy emphasis on form can’t be overstated. Like many things to do with bows and shooting, you either like it or you don’t.

A vast majority of bow shooters still use peep sights, and they’re often pre-installed when you purchase your bow. With that in mind, here’s some peep sight sizes that could do it right for your type of hunting style.

Small Peep Sights for Hunting

Peeps with small diameter sizes are known to improve accuracy. Target and competition shooters may sport small peep sights because they offer a narrow aiming window.

During normal lighting conditions that are expected with daylight hunting, a small peep can actually offer better sight picture clarity since the aperture allows for enhanced focus on the target downrange.

However, if lighting conditions were to change such as going from open areas to thick timber with heavy shading or when it’s low light, your sight picture will become dark. Those with vision problems may not benefit from using a small peep right off the bat.

So, it goes without saying that a small peep would be suitable for hunters who require extreme accuracy, say for game with small kill zones. It would only be appropriate for daylight hunting when there’s as much light as possible, and only those with average to excellent eyesight could take advantage of a small peep.

Small peep sight sizes can include 1/32″, 3/64″, 1/16″, 3/32″, and 1/8″ being the largest of this lot.

It’s worth mentioning that long axle to axle bows would pair well with small peeps since the string comes closer to the eye.

Large Peep Sights for Hunting

Peeps with larger diameter sizes may not be as accurate-driven as small peep sights. They’re geared towards allowing more light in for a brighter sight picture in low light conditions or in heavily shaded areas. They’d also be appropriate for close range hunting to take advantage of the full field of view to appropriately aim your pin on the target.

Those with problematic eyesight and vision problems would be better suited with a large peep sight for hunting. Sacrificing the accuracy expected of a small peep size within forgivable boundaries in hunting is acceptable because of the large kill zones on animals such as deer and elk.

However, even if you prefer the larger peep size, you’ll still need it to properly fit your sight picture. If you have too much floating space around the sight housing ring while looking through the peep, you will run into accuracy and form issues.

If you’re a hunter that takes advantage of first and last legal light, may have aging eyes, and may be shooting from a stand and taking close range shots, then you might want to consider a bigger peep size.

Short axle to axle bows also pair well with large peeps since they have sharp string angles that forces the peep further away from the eye.

Large peep sizes can include 3/16″, 7/32″, 1/4″, and 5/16″.

How to Use a Peep Sight

Knowing how to use a peep sight might help you to determine what the best peep sight size will be for your setup. The most popular sizing method is to opt for the peep that fits the sight housing ring. What do we mean by this? There are two different ways to use a peep sight.

Method 1:

At full draw, you center the pin you need to aim with within the middle of the peep sight. Depending on what pin you use, you may or may not see part of the top or bottom of the sight housing within the peep sight view.

Method 2:

The entire sight housing ring must match the peep sight ring. You have an unobstructed view of all pins, full field of view, and the sight housing ring matches perfectly with the peep sight.

Method 2 is the recommended way to use a peep sight since it encourages you to choose the most appropriate peep size for your setup. It also ensures your anchor point remains the same regardless of what pin you need to aim with. Slightly move at the waist to get the right pin on your target’s kill zone.

Method 1 is still used by some, however, it can cause a drop in your anchor point to get your bottom pins centered. Moving your anchor point means inconsistent form, reduced accuracy, and can be a complete miss.

Trying out a few different sizes while at a dealer will also help to narrow down what size works best for your setup. If you plan on using the same bow for multiple activities no matter the time of day or lighting conditions, you can save time finding the right peep sight size and opt for a specialty peep sight.

Specialty Archery Peep Sights

These types of sights may be adjustable in diameter, easily interchangeable to be transferred from bow to bow, and are completely compatible to be used with different bow sights. They are typically more expensive than your average one-size peep, but the cost may be worth it if your needs require the specialty features.

You might also be interested in what peep accessories such as a clarifier and verifier can do for your sight picture.

Only You Know the Answer

Outfitting the perfect peep to match your setup is a personal touch. Your vision is needed to confirm whether a certain peep will work for you.

Although trying out different peeps might be tedious, it’ll be worth it in the end. Taking the time to properly prep your gear for the hunt will improve your odds for success. At the very least, you won’t be one of them who loses the shot for whatever reason because you have the wrong size peep!

Further Reading

• How to Measure Scope Ring Height (With Pics & Calculations)
• How to Adjust a Rifle Scope: 6 Scope Adjustments Explained!
• How to Level a Scope on a Rifle [Step-by-Step With Pics]
• What is a Rifle Scope Ruler (Mildot Master) & How to Use It?
• What is a Prism Scope? Prism VS Reflex VS LPVO!

Many people love meat because it’s a good source of protein. Do you need ideas on the tastiest meat dish for your lunch or special event? You’ll never go wrong with well-cooked deer brisket, as it has a spicy flavor when you serve it hot.

The brisket on a deer lies at the bottom of a deer’s chest, in front of the ribcage. Removing a deer’s brisket involves removing the shoulders, backstrap, and tenderloins and cutting through the cartilage.

The rest of this article will:

• Delve deeper to explain where to find deer brisket.
• Discuss whether you must sear a deer’s brisket.
• How to remove brisket off a deer.
• Where to find the best meat on a deer.
• You’ll also learn the differences between venison backstrap and the tenderloin and what part of a deer is best for steaks.

Can You Get Brisket off a Deer?

Though tough, brisket is one of the most delicious meats in mammals, including deer. While butchering a deer to get the brisket may seem like a painstaking process, it’s achievable with the right tools and skills.

You can get brisket off a deer even though it’s smaller and leaner than a cow’s brisket. Using a sharp knife, you should remove it by cutting off the meat between the forelimbs on the deer’s chest through the cartilage. Also, cut out all fat up to the backbone.

Since a deer’s brisket is smaller than other big animals, removing it is a challenge to most people. However, when you follow the right butchering procedure, you can get the brisket off the carcass.

You can make the best fajitas, burgers, or sausages with this piece of meat or trim and grill it under higher heat.

Related Best Knife for Processing Deer | Hint: You Need Two.

Should Brisket Be Seared?

Brisket should be seared because it is essential to build up the meat’s flavor. However, you need to prepare it adequately before searing it and let it slow-cook in the oven or pan. Slow cooking makes the meat tender and easier for you to slice it afterward.

Searing venison brisket is a common preparation method in most traditional dishes as it adds flavor to the meat. Searing involves cooking the meat’s surface under high temperatures until it caramelizes, otherwise known as forming a brown crust.

Adding some oil creates contact between the brisket and the cooking surface.

• Before you sear the brisket, trim away the fat pad on the brisket’s outer surface. A large sharp knife will come in handy during this preparation step.
• Then, marinate it using salt, pepper, or other spices a day before you cook it.

Moreover, it’s important to remember that deer meat is generally tough, and storing it for a couple of days enables the aging process, which will make the meat tender, including the brisket. Do this before starting your cooking process, and you’ll have tender briskets.

After aging, trimming off fat, and marinating the deer’s brisket, you can now sear it.

If you notice that there are still some grey spots on the meat after searing, it means one side of the brisket didn’t cook well. To avoid these spots, you should ensure that you flip both sides to burn evenly.

How To Remove Deer Brisket

You might be thinking about getting a professional butcher to remove the brisket from your deer, right? However, there’s an easier way to do this in the comfort of your home.

Removing a deer’s brisket is one of the final meat-cutting steps of butchering.

After you’re through with the major butchering procedure, you can remove the brisket in a slab using the flat of your knife. Cut the meat carefully against the lower-chest region, trimming off the cod fat and tallow.

To get to the deer’s brisket, you have to butcher cut major parts. Here are the steps:

1. Cut and pull the shoulders from the torso of the deer to expose the cut zone which your knife will pass through.
2. Pull the front leg away from the torso, and with your knife’s blade parallel to the ribcage, cut the hinge area.
3. Remove the backstraps and the tenderloin, but trim away the excess fat layer first. To do this, find the hip bone and cut under this bone to the backbone on both sides. Loosen and get the meat off by ensuring that your knife is close to the bone.
4. Cut through the ribs down to the backbone. You’ll find the brisket on the outer surface of the ribs. Cut it off while your knife’s blade is against the lower-front chest region and remove any cod fat.

Check out this YouTube video that shows the process of removing a brisket:

Where Is the Best Meat on a Deer?

After butchering a deer, you’ll want to get the most out of the process. Many people go for the bigger and popular venison chunks. But where’s the best meat on a deer?

The backstraps and tenderloins are the best meat cuts of a deer. These parts are tender and will give you a succulent and delicious meal. Other preferred parts include the hindquarters, rump, and chucks.

Backstraps and tenderloins are a favorite to most venison lovers as they are tender and easy to cook. The hindquarters have a variety of uses, as you can use them as steak, in stews, kebabs, or jerky.

There are many other recipes for preparing this dish that you can try out on your own.

Is Venison Backstrap the Same As Tenderloin?

Differentiating between the venison backstrap and tenderloin can be a bit confusing.

A backstrap isn’t the same as a tenderloin. The venison backstrap is the meat along a deer’s spine on the outer part of the backbone. However, tenderloin sits beneath the spine, inside the abdominal cavity along the backbone.

Tenderloin is about 10” to 12” (25.4 to 30.48 cm) smaller than the backstrap but very delicious.

What Part of a Deer Is Best for Steaks?

Are you a steak lover? Well, you can make the best steaks from some parts of venison.

The hindquarters of the deer is best for steaks. The top and bottom rounds have extensive muscles but also have tender sections. They produce the best steaks and cuts for other dishes. Venison hindquarters are large, with cuts for various uses.

You can get the best steak from these parts in young or older deer. However, the bottom rounds are more tender than the top ones.

Final Words

You can get brisket off a deer by following the correct butchering process all by yourself. It may not be a very easy cut to make, but it’s doable. Once you have the brisket, you can leave it for a few days to age and then prepare it for cooking by marinating first.

Searing the brisket is also a great idea as it helps to lock in the flavors.

For more, check out The 5 Best Ways to Preserve Meat in the Wild.

I am a new shotgun enthusiast from the R3 era – Recruitment, Retention, and Reactivation.

I do not come from a family of outdoorsy people or firearm owners. Exposures and accessibility to equipment were rough getting started. Had it not been for the mentors and friendships during my process, I am not sure my love and respect for conservation and hunting would have developed.

After a few seasons of sporting clays and falling in love with upland hunting, I took an interest in learning how to hunt waterfowl. I did not know what was needed to attempt it. I thought I needed a well-trained dog and to master waterfowl calls, but all I needed was a 2 a.m. alarm and a reliable shotgun that suited my frame. When I started hunting waterfowl, I owned one 12-gauge shotgun mainly used for sporting clay.

I am not sure when waterfowl hunting became an obsession, but I was soon in a blind for more than four days a month. I felt my activity level was enough to justify needing an additional shotgun just in case mine malfunctioned. The problem was that shotguns are unavailable in my area to try before you invest in a new one. I made it a personal mission to try out different shotguns and determine my fit, ergonomics, and price range. My first shotgun was on a lucky sale, it was not a perfect fit, but I adjusted to it. After some trial and error, I learned that the feel and fit of a shotgun contributes to successful shooting.

As my hunting adventures increased in frequency, so did my observation of my hunting environment and the desire to blend more in the open. My hunting buddies had “upgraded” to camo-finished stocked shotguns, leaving me with camo envy. Having heard, “ducks do not care what color your gun is,” did not reduce the desire for a camo-clad shotgun.

On a Mission

Luck would have it that I was invited to review a Franchi Affinity 3.5 Waterfowl Elite. Now, the kicker was that I had not shot a Franchi at this point in my outdoor life. It never crossed my mind to consider one, and nobody within my circle owned one. I was set on a specific brand, and honestly, I was a little aloof about the Franchi. My only request was that it had a 28-inch barrel length, 12 gauge, and capable of loading 3 ½ inch shotshells. The 3 ½ inch, non-toxic, #2 shot shotshells were much easier to come by during my region’s 2021-2022 season. I was determined that the next shotgun I purchased would be able to handle 3 ½-inch shells in case that was all I could get.

The Franchi Affinity 3.5 Waterfowl Elite was shipped to me. It arrived a few weeks before I was heading out for my second attempt at a snow goose hunt. The day I picked up the Franchi, a new found excitement was activated. When I opened the box and saw that it sported the perfect camo pattern for the environment and surrounding areas I hunt

I sent out a group text letting the ladies of my sporting clay league and waterfowl hunting circles know I had a new shotgun to demo. I invited them for a clay date to try it too. I was shocked at how well I handled a 50-target run of sporting clays before sharing it with multiple ladies and a few guys.

I had a few weeks to prepare for my snow goose hunt, so it gave me ample time to practice and become intimate with the Franchi Affinity 3.5 Waterfowl Elite. Next, I purchased some inexpensive 3 ½ inch turkey loads to do an ill-advised “mag dump.” I was told by numerous seasoned wing and clay shooters that it had to be the craziest idea I have ever expressed out loud.

They wanted proof that I went through with it. Bets were placed on my shoulder being bruised, and me complaining about aches and pains for a few days. I had one witness that recorded my shenanigans, and we posted it on my social media. Next, I shared a picture of my comfortable, non-bruised shoulder. I was shocked at how soft the recoil felt with those turkey loads. I felt so confident with the Franchi Affinity 3.5 Waterfowl Elite in hand that if snow geese flew overhead, I would land a few. The Franchi was balanced and reduced felt recoil. If I could not shoot ten 3 ½ inch shotshells consecutively without discomfort, I would have needed to rush-order 2 ¾-inch shells.

Snow Goose Revenge

The previous season, only one goose showed up. My entire hunting squad was taking a stretch break at the time, and none of us could take a safe shot at the solo goose. This season, I was prepared with a camo shotgun that broke many clays. With a snack-packed blind bag filled with 12-gauge, 3 1/2 inch shells with BBB shot, I was determined to come home with a full cooler.

What a memorable weekend! With the Franchi Affinity 3.5 Waterfowl Elite, I had my first successful snow goose hunt. My hunting squad harvested 32 snow geese in total within a few hours.

Maintenance

I needed to tackle cleaning the shotgun. It hunted hard in extremely cold temperatures and muddy, wet, dusty environments. I surface wiped it and bore snaked after every other shoot, but after my snow goose hunt, it was time for a deep clean and inspection. It was a little different than the shotguns I had cleaned. However, it was not difficult to figure out how to remove the forward grip and disassemble and reassemble the components quickly.

I Need One

At the time of my initial review, this shotgun made my potential wish list. Not the I WANT list, but the I NEED list for a dedicated waterfowl gun. The managed recoil, handling, ergonomic structure, and weight worked in my favor. The price point is fair and economically feasible compared to others.

I am still new to the world of hunting, yet I am immersed enough to understand what I need, why I need it, and how much I want to invest in a product. I want reliable, generational products, but I also do not want to spend an ample amount of money this early in my hunting journey or spend a ton of money on a firearm that I have not been able to try out before buying it. This shotgun proved to me that it would be a great dedicated waterfowl gun to add to my staple gear pieces.

Franchi Affinity 3.5 Waterfowl Elite

I received the Franchi Affinity 3.5 Waterfowl Elite with the Gore Optifade Waterfowl Marsh Stock finish and a Burnt Bronze Cerakote barrel finish. The MSRP is $1449.00, and retail chains average roughly $1249.99. Here are the features you will have right out of the box:

• Optional Gore Optifade choice of Waterfowl Marsh or Waterfowl Timber stock finish
• Weighs 7 lbs
• TruGlo Dual Color Fiber optics
• Standard 28″ inch barrel
• Franchi Affinity Waterfowl 12 gauge Trulock choke tube set
  • Close Range .720 (Cylinder)
  • Mid Range .710 (Improved Cylinder)
  • Long Range .700 (Modified Cylinder)
• 1 flush choke tube – Modified, steel shot approved
• Choke Key
• Stock counterweight.
• Standard Shim Kit
• ¾-inch recoil pad
• Round Capacity is 4+1, varying by shotshell length
• Oversized bolt frag handle and frag bolt release
• The receiver is tapped for mounting optics
• Length of pull is 14 3/8 inches

• Drop at Heel: Adjustable 2″ to 2-1/2″
• Drop at Comb: 1-1/2″

• Overall length 50 ¼ inches
• Minimum Recommended Load: 3-dram, 1-1/8 oz
• Inertia driven system