SPRING MUSHROOMS

There are over 100 fairly common spring mushrooms in our area (NYC metro area) – that is, occurring between March 21 and June 21. Some of these occur in great numbers. Some are choice edibles. A few are poisonous. One is deadly. Most are just not edible or palatable 0r chewable. Learn them one at a time and you’ll see how quickly you can become familiar with much of our spring mushroom flora…………..

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CENTRAL PARK MUSHROOM HUNT – JUNE 14th

GILLED MUSHROOMS included AMANITA flavorubescens PLUTEUS cervinus, PSATHYRELLA candolleana, RUSSULA sp., SCHIZOPHYLLUM commune, STROPHARIA rugosoannulata, and a few still to be identified

NON-GILLED MUSHROOMS included: XYLARIA polymorpha, STEREUM ostrea, PHELLINUS robiniae, GANODERMA curtisii, USTULINA deusta, and others…….

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The mushrooms below are arranged in two large groups – ASCOMYCETES and BASIDIOMYCETES.

The ASCOMYCETES include the CUP FUNIG, the MORELS, the DEAD MAN’S FINGERS and BLACK KNOT OF CHERRY

The BASIDIOMYCETES include the POLYPORES, the GILLED MUSHROOMS, the BOLETES, the JELLY FUNGI, and the PUFFBALLS

Below the photographs of spring mushrooms, there is a TEST that you can take. See how well you do. (Answers will follow in a June posting).

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ASCOMYCETES

CUP FUNGUS – Sarcoscypha coccinea – not edible – on sticks on the ground near ponds or lakes

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MORELS – Morchella esculenta (americana) – Choice Edible – on the ground under old elms, apple trees, tulip poplar

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Immature DEAD MAN’S FINGERS – Xylaria polymorpha – not edible – at the base of hardwood trees, often apple or crabapple

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BLACK KNOT OF CHERRY – Apiosporina morbosa – not edible – parasitic, on cherry branches

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BASUDUINTCETES

POLYPORES

DRYAD’S SADDLE (PHEASANT BACK) – Polyporus squamosus – good edible when young – on wood

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CHICKEN MUSHROOM – Laetiporus sulphureus – CHOICE EDIBLE MUSHROOM – on wood of hardwood trees – fruiting from May through October

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GILLED MUSHROOMS

PLAYGROUND MUSHROOM – Agaricus bitorquis – choice edible – on the ground, often bare ground, grassy areas, wood chips, etc.

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OYSTER MUSHROOM – Pleurotus ostreatus – Choice edible – on wood

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DUNCE CAP – Conocybe lactea – not edible – common in grass in late May/early June

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LAWN MOWER’S MUSHROOM – Panaeolina foenisecii – not edible – common in grass in late May/early June

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Baby INKY CAPS – Coprinus macaques complex – Edible, good in soup, as duxelles, etc. – on wood, base of stumps, wood chips

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DEADLY GALERINA – Galerina (autumnalis) marginata – a very common Little Brown Mushroom – on decayed logs – DEADLY POISONOUS

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FAWN MUSHROOM – Pluteus cervinus complex – edible when young – on wood or buried wood

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WINE CAP – Stropharia rugosoannulata – Good edible when young – always in wood chips

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BOLETES

CRACKED CAP BOLETE – Xerocomellus chrysenteron – first bolete to appear (late May-early June) – edible – on the ground under oaks (mycorrhizal)

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JELLY FUNGI

WOOD-EAR – Auricularia auricula complex – edible, best in soup – one wood – common in late winter and spring

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WITCHES’ BUTTER – Tremella mesenteric complex – edible but not incredible – on wood

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SPRING MUSHROOMS 2017………………SPRING MUSHROOMS 2017…………………SPRING MUSHROOMS 2017

A MULTIPLE CHOICE TEST –

1, Name 3 gilled mushrooms that grow on wood: a) Agaricus bitorquis, b) Pleurotus ostreatus, c) Coprinus micaceus, d) Morchella esculenta, e) Flammulina velutipes, f) Ganoderma applanatum

2. Name 3 gilled mushrooms that grow on the ground: a) Agaricus bitorquis, b) Pleurotus ostreatus, c) Conocybe lactea, d) Panaeolina foenisecii, e) Pluteus cervinus, f) Stropharia rugoso-annulata

3. What color is the spore print of Pluteus cervinus: a) white, b) yellowish, c) pinkish brown or brownish pink, d) ochre brown, e) purple brown, f) black

4. Name one deadly Little Brown Mushroom: a) Agaricus bitorquis, b) Pleurotus ostreatus, c) Gallerina autumnalis (marginata) , d) Morchella esculenta, e) Pluteus cervinus, f) Flammulina velutipes

5. Name one spring lawn mushroom: a) Pluteus cervinus, b) Flammulina velutipes, c) Stropharia rugoso-annulata, d) Marasmius oreades, e) Morchella esculenta, f) Pleurotus ostreatus

6. Name one inky cap mushroom that is not safe to eat: a) Coprinus comatus, b) Coprinus micaceus, c) Coprinus atramentarius, d) Coprinus plicatilis, e) Coprinus disseminatus

7. What’s the name of the common cultivated mushrooms?: a) Agaricus campestris, b) Agaricus bitorquis, c) Agaricus bisporus, d) Agaricus arvensis, e) Agaricus placomyces

8. Name one spring species of Agaricus: a) Agaricus arvensis, b) Agaricus bitorquis, c) Agaricus crocodilians, d), Agaricus placomyces, e) Agaricus bernaradii

9. Where would I look to find Wine Cap mushrooms?: a) in lawns, b) on trees, c) in wood chip mulch, d) in manure, e) in deep conifer woods

10. Where would I look to find oyster mushrooms: a) in a lawn, b) in swampy ground, c) on trees and logs, d) in manure, e) on other mushrooms

11. Name one common spring polypore: a) Polyporus squamnosus, b) Grifola frondosa, c) Meripilus sumstinei

12. Where should I look to find morels? a) on elm trees, b) under elm trees, c) in manure piles, d) in swamps, e) only at Whole Foods

13. How can I tell a morel from a false morel?: a) only one is brown, b) only one comes up in the spring, c) only one has a hollow stem, d) only one smells like cherry vanilla, e) only one is an Ascomycete

14. Have you ever eaten wood-ear mushrooms? a) yes or b) no ????

15. What kind of mushroom is a Turkey-tail?: a) a jelly fungus, b) a gilled mushroom, c) a polypore, d) an Ascomycete, e) a puffball

16. What kind of mushroom is a Reishi mushroom?: a) a gilled mushroom, b) a polypore, c) a jelly fungus, d) an Ascomycete, e) a puffball

17. Where would I look to find Chaga?: a) on an elm, b) on an oak, c) on a birch, d) on a pine, e) on a tulip-poplar

18. What is a Caterpillar Fungus, and is it edible?: Cordyceps is the traditional genus for these mushrooms that parasitize overwintering caterpillars, and it is edible but primarily used as a medicine

19. Where would I look to find Black Knot fungus?: a) on an elm tree, b) on an oak tree, c) on a cherry tree, d) on a poplar tree, e) on a ginkgo tree

20. Are mushrooms edible raw, and if not, why not?: NO (if very few exceptions, mushrooms are highly indigestible raw)

21. Give one example of one ectomycorrhizal mushroom?: a) Coprinus commatus, b) Agaricus bitorquis, c) Pleurotus osteratus, d) Pluteus cervinus, e) Boletus chrysenteron

In 1987, at 4 a.m. on a foggy August morning in southeast Alaska, William B. Steele had a decision to make: continue driving for 20 miles on gravel roads to reach his Sitka blacktail deer hunting area, or turn around? He’d chosen a large unnamed mountain to hunt, but the closer he got, the thicker the fog became.

When he reached the mountain he decided to hunt. But the weather was so bad, he almost turned around several times during a mile-long hike to the top of a 1,500-foot ridge. An hour later Steele reached a pass on the ridge, and as he picked his way through the fog he inadvertently jumped a few deer. Frustrated, he wondered why he was even there.

Overlooking a large bowl, Steele decided to take a break and glass for animals. As he ate a sandwich, he noticed a group of Sitka blacktails (Odocoileus hemionus sitkensis) 1,200 yards away, across the valley in a muskeg. Through the fog and mist, Steele got a glance at what looked to be a heavy-antlered deer. He decided to work his way across the bowl and try to get closer. He made a mental note of where the deer stood, took a compass bearing, and headed through the brush.

The wind was light and swirling, but mostly in his face as he started to creep through the timber toward the spot where he’d marked the deer. Eventually, he ran out of cover and had to proceed across an open muskeg toward the next stand of trees.

Suddenly, in the wide open, Steele spotted two of the largest bucks he’d ever seen, feeding through the trees, just 125 feet away. They were moving to his right when he noticed a stiff-legged doe to his left. Busted, he froze. The doe knew something was wrong, but couldn’t determine the threat. Out of the corners of his eyes Steele glanced at the bucks. One had fed nearly into view.

Knowing time was running out, Steele slowly raised his .30-06 and leaned to the right as far as he could without tipping over. He could see most of the buck past the tree so he put the crosshairs on its shoulder and squeezed the trigger. The buck jumped and then raced out of sight through the muskeg. It piled up no more than 150 feet away from Steele.

Steele packed out the animal and was on his way home when a dump truck driver behind him signaled him to pull over. The driver got out and told him he had shot a deer the week before that measured in the 125-point class, and he thought that Steele’s looked to be as big. After the velvet was removed and the trophy dried, it was officially scored at 126-2/8 points.

Editor’s Note: When William B. Steele’s Sitka blacktail was originally measured, it was scored as a typical because there was no non-typical category. When the non-typical Sitka blacktail category was created at the beginning of the Boone and Crockett Club’s 25th Awards Period, the score on Steele’s great trophy was changed to 134 points. It now stands as the largest Sitka blacktail ever recorded.

Deer hunting in Maine’s vast north woods is a wilderness experience our farm country friends find truly exciting and challenging. The area surrounding North Country Lodge provides the best habitat available for monster whitetail bucks. The big ones are here, and they challenge you to the chase.

The Elusive Northern Whitetail Buck

Monster big woods bucks over 200 lb dressed weight are not uncommon. A Maine buck’s antler size can be impressive, but body weight is what Maine bucks are noted for most of all.

Northern whitetail deer are a genetically different buck than you will find at home. Bucks are naturally bred with large bodies to survive cold winters, and typically will reach an older age due to low hunting pressure. Miles and miles of woods, with very few hunters, allows these trophies to reach a maturity not often seen by our southern neighbors.

Big woods bucks often cover a large territory while searching for a hot doe, and even though they favor certain travel areas, you never know where or when you will encounter your prize. You will find hardwood ridges and fir thickets where bucks will be checking for does. Bucks will bed down in a thicket or next to a fallen tree, but just as often they will take a bed on an open slope where they can scan for movements.

Deer Population

Maine’s deer population changes yearly depending on many factors – mostly the length of winter. Northern deer can survive brutally cold temperatures, but winter survival really depends on how early green growth and buds start to appear toward spring.

When populations dipped ten to twenty years ago, we closed our lodge during November. Populations are now rebounding, and we are seeing many more deer than in past years. For this reason, and at the urging of our many hunters who have always enjoyed the lodge and hunting in the “big woods,” we are again opening the lodge for November.

The Hunt

The “woods are lovely, dark and deep” as Robert Frost wrote. Endless miles of unpaved roads and skidder trails provide unlimited access to all manner of terrain. You will be free to roam through our area’s vast spruce-fir-hardwood forest without encountering “no trespassing” signs, paved highways or even another hunter. Or you can stay close, and take a stand in a known deer crossing area.

Hunt on your own, or guides can be provided upon request. We will also provide you with maps of the area and tree stands, set up by our Professional Maine Guides, to aid you in your Whitetail Deer hunt. You are free to head out in early morning and remain out until dark – or come and go as you please. The lodge is always open.

November in Maine can bring cold temperatures, with snow from easy tracking depth to knee deep. When fresh and soft, snowy woods are silent and beautiful – perfect for silently stalking and tracking. Warm and waterproof boots and clothing are suggested. Weather can also bring 40-50 degrees at noon, with lighter clothing and layers being vital.

Cell phone service is available throughout our area, making it easy to keep in touch with your partners or to call for help when needed.

Deer Hunting Season

Maine’s firearm deer season runs for 4 weeks, typically beginning the first Monday in November. Call us for details about each season, and early opportunities for bow hunting.

Shooting time starts 30 minutes before sunrise, and ends 30 minutes after sunset. Exact time is set by the State.

Fantastic Deer Hunting Lodge

Enjoy the warm hospitality at North Country Lodge and the camaraderie of fellow hunters. We believe that comfortable accommodations, relaxation, great meals, and complete service are important parts of an enjoyable hunting experience and vital to enjoying your visit with us.

You will enjoy our beautiful lodge with its rustic atmosphere and modern conveniences such as fireplace, WIFI and maid service.

The Lodge has two large sitting rooms, complete with a large fireplace and adorned with numerous trophy mounts representing past hunts – setting the perfect stage for sharing “tall tales” about your hunts.

The Lodge has full modern conveniences, including:

• Clean attractive private sleeping rooms that accommodate from 1 to 6 persons
• Comfortable beds
• Showers
• Towels and linens
• Daily cleaning service
• Spacious and relaxing lounge areas
• WIFI
• Cell Phone Reception

Women, couples and family groups with youth hunters all find the Lodge very hospitable. Single hunters are very welcome. Call us for more information.

Firearm and archery ranges are located adjacent to the lodge for double checking and fine tuning your sights before and during your hunt.

Delicious Dining

You will enjoy dining in the Lodge’s beautiful dining room. Our kitchen staff serves the finest quality meals – All “home cooked and all you can eat” – served in a beautiful dining room.

Breakfasts are available at 5 am for those wanting to hunt early. Lunch is provided in the dining room or you may take a bag lunch for a day in the woods. Bring your thermos, and we’ll fill it with hot coffee for the trail.

Before you Choose

Be sure to compare North Country Lodge’s quality service and hunting opportunities. Ask questions. Find out why Over 75% of our hunters are return clients.

Don’t settle for less than the best.

We look forward to playing a part in your dream of bagging a “Trophy Maine Big Woods Buck”.

Deer Hunting Package

Deer hunts at North Country Lodge include:

• Deluxe accommodations in a fully equipped modern hunting lodge.
• Six Days of hunting
• Seven Nights of lodging.
• Three complete meals per day-home cooking and all you can eat.
• Daily room cleaning service.

Advice from our licensed Maine guides on where to hunt and methods to use.Registered Maine Guides available upon request

Click here for our rates

Click here to obtain a Maine Hunting License online. Licenses are also available at many locations on your way here.

North Woods Tips

Two articles of hunter orange clothing are required during deer season by Maine law. November in Maine can be very cold (20F or colder). Warm clothing and rugged boots are important. A flashlight, knife, compass, matches and fire starter are also considered a necessity for hunting Whitetail Deer in Maine. Many find their GPS and Cell phones very handy.

About North Country Lodge

When you plan your hunting trips, you expect the best, with “no surprises.” The Goodman family established North Country Lodge in 1985, always making sure that guests enjoy the very best Maine hunting experience.

Location, Location, Location

North Country Lodge is nestled among the pines, spruce and hardwood ridges in Aroostook County of northern Maine. The region comprises the largest wilderness area east of the Mississippi River. We are 11 miles north of Patten Maine, and approximately 25 miles east of Maine’s largest state park (Baxter State Park) and the Maine Woods National Monument.

For well over a century, Aroostook County has offered the finest Black Bear, Whitetail deer, and moose hunting on the North American continent.

This magnificent hunters’ paradise, with hardwood ridges, rolling hills, swamps and bogs, provide the setting for an exciting and memorable experience in the vast North Maine Woods.

Maine Guides

Our staff of hunting guides has a vast knowledge of the region and the game that resides here. All have exemplary reputations earned over the years from serving hunters and the hunting industry. Our guides are active all year, either preparing for your visit, or working diligently with outdoor organizations and wildlife biologists to protect the game and the privilege to hunt.

Despite the axe’s status as one of humanity’s most ancient and widespread tools, many modern preppers overlook the value an axe adds to a well-rounded survival kit. But that’s a mistake — we consider some form of an axe one of the four core bladed tools everyone should have on hand.

Axes are devastatingly effective against hard materials like wood and metal, exploiting the basic laws of physics and leverage to drive an edge through a surface with maximum force and minimum calories burned. This combination of effectiveness and efficiency makes an axe a lifesaver in situations as varied as escaping a burning office building to surviving the winter wilderness of the Pacific Northwest.

More: Not sure about all the different types of bladed tools and how to mix the right types together for your needs?

More: Survival hatchet review

A good axe can do a lot more than just chopping, though. If an axe has the right beard, poll, and handle design, you can “choke up” on it with your hand and use it for knife-type tasks like carving, game processing, shaving fuzz sticks, and similar fine work.

Sometimes the right axe actually works better than a field knife for certain fine cutting tasks, because the configuration pictured above places your hand and fingers very close to the working edge, giving you more control and allowing your sense of proprioception to engage in a way that it can’t with all but the smallest knives.

Full review details on the best survival axes, our criteria, contenders, and more below the fold.

If you just want to check this off your prepping list and move on without spending too much time or money, the jack-of-all-trades $80 Estwing Camper’s Axe is a heavy, steel-handled, ultra-durable classic with a great reputation. As a general-purpose survival axe from a reputable company, the Eastwing is a capable chopper that works for any type of user (skilled or unskilled) in any environment (country, suburbs, or city).

The $235 Gransfors Bruks Small Forest Axe is a legendary axe that has dominated the compact survival axe niche for decades and is widely known by the acronym “SFA.” You pay a little extra for the name, but this amazing tool is worth the premium. At only 19 inches and two pounds, it’s small enough to toe the line of being a hatchet, but gives you that axe-level power in a package you can easily carry on foot.

The very best emergency axe for city preppers is the tried-and-true $240 Fire Axe Inc JP Special 4lb Pick Head Axe with synthetic handle. Expensive, but worth it: The JP Special is a high-quality axe carried by firefighters and frequently recommended in firefighter forums because it’s a dependable beast of a chopping, breaching, and demolition tool. Because this is a personal axe and not a truck axe, it’s compact enough (though just barely) to be carried short distances on a belt or pack.

The $180 Hults Bruk Kisa Medium Sized Felling Axe is right in the sweet spot of quality, features, size, and price for an axe that’s built for processing large amounts of forest wood. It’s large enough to handle tough homesteading tasks but small enough to carry a while on foot if you needed to. Hults Bruk is a legendary brand popular among bushcrafters and preppers.

If you’d rather have just a little bit more portability in an axe that’s still capable of handling rural tasks, check out the slightly cheaper $150 Helko Journeyman. However, the Journeyman’s head shape is more suited for wood splitting than it is for knife-type work like carving.

The best budget axe for rural preppers is the $50 Council Tool 2.25# 24” Boy Axe. Made in the US (which is harder to find the cheaper you go) and based on a famous design used by the US Forest Service. You’ll sacrifice fit and finish, plus it’s meaningfully longer and heavier than the more expensive alternatives, but it will serve you well in a pinch.

Why you should trust us

I’ve professionally reviewed bladed tools for 6 years, personally used them in the bush for 35 years, and have been a prepper for 10 years.

We’ve spent an additional 55 hours preparing this review by talking with other experts in the field — ranging from firefighters and first responders to bushcrafters and preppers — and researching countless product reviews and social forum threads.

Top contenders and our selection process

We narrowed down the field to the top 20 survival axes of different sizes and features. From that list we received samples from top manufacturers to compliment the models we already owned.

Any of the axes in the top 20 will serve you well in any type of emergency, but we’ve narrowed down the list further to the ten best picks for different types of preppers in different environments.

View the spreadsheet in Google Docs

Note that axe data, particularly weights, are often wrong or misleading on ecommerce sites. For example, many sellers only list the weight of the axe head, not the overall axe. Where possible, we’ve used data directly from the manufacturer or from speciality retail sites that take care to get it right.

We’ve focused here on more lightweight, packable axes that are big enough to do useful felling work but small enough to carry on-foot for modest distances.

Our final choices come from a mix of reputation and reviews from other experts we trust, combined with our own hands-on experiences with many of these products and brands.

Axe basics

Axes are two simple machines put together: a wedge and a lever. All the members of the axe family (including hatchets and tomahawks) share the same basic anatomy:

• Head: The wedge-shaped weight at the top of the axe that does the chopping.
• Eye: The large hole in the head that attaches around the handle.
• Blade: The part of the axe head with the edge on it that does the chopping. Sometimes called the ‘bit’.
• Poll: The part of the axe head opposite the blade.
• Beard: The part of the blade that extends downward in a triangle shape.

Survival axe considerations

Weight distribution

An axe is more effective when most of the weight is in the head. When the weight is more evenly distributed between the handle and head, the laws of physics make it less “punchy”.

So when you’re comparing models, keep in mind that two axes with the exact same length, materials, and weight can have very different chopping capabilities.

Head shape

The edge shape and thickness determines how well an axe handles different materials.

A flatter edge shape puts more of the edge in contact with the thing being chopped on each stroke, making it great for wood and other natural materials.

But that same flat edge could more easily get stuck in a totally flat surface (like a wall or door), which is why some demolition or “fireman’s” axes have half-moon shaped heads.

Those curvy edges can be awful to chop rounded natural materials with, though, which is why this factor matters when thinking about your environment.

Head thickness and cutting vs. splitting

A wide axe head (think of a “fat” pyramid) is better at using that wide angle to forcefully split pieces apart. Like splitting already-cut logs of firewood into sections: a fat wedge forces the wood apart through opposing pressure, more so than biting into the material and slicing through it.

A thinner axe head acts more like a knife cutting through the material, and is better suited to cutting tasks like felling trees or limbing logs.

We generally prefer the more cutting-oriented heads that are more popular with today’s bushcrafters for their versatility in doing many different kinds of non-chopping camp chores, but for most preppers the real-world performance and usage differences between the different head thicknesses and shapes represented in this guide are subtle and not worth obsessing over.

Poll shape

You can flip an axe around and use the poll as a secondary tool.

Polls come in two varieties: hammer and spike. There’s also a ‘pick’ axe poll, but in this guide we use ‘spike’ and ‘pick’ interchangeably since they’re basically the same thing.

Hammer polls allow the axe to double as a hammer. They’re also generally safer than spike polls. There is some folklore around not using an axe poll as a hammer, but these concerns are vastly overrated. Lightweight striking is fine — it takes a lot of beating against a hard surface to deform the eye of a good axe, so go ahead and hammer those tent stakes and forget about that myth you read on the internet.

The spike or pick poll increases the axe’s effectiveness as a demolition and breaching tool, which is why you see this feature on tomahawks and dedicated breaching axes. A spike poll can also be used for digging, and is especially good at digging through hard or rocky ground.

Handle length

The mechanics of leverage means the length of the handle matters a lot for how well an axe chops. Even an inch can make a difference.

That creates a tricky tradeoff between portability and chopping ability. We favor a balance between these two factors and it’s reflected in our recommendations.

But if you were looking for a big, old-growth hardwood chopper that’ll never leave your garage, for example, you’d clearly want a longer handle.

Some handles are meant to break and be replaced

Like tires on a car, a wooden axe handle is a wear part that is designed to break down with use and be replaced periodically. Axe handle breakage is a normal thing for well-used axes, which is why hardware stores stock so many wooden replacement handles.

Breakage is also a factor for fiberglass handles that are rated to handle 1,000 pounds or more of lateral force. But it normally takes some abuse to get there.

Overstrike is a major cause of breakage for wooden and synthetic handles — especially among amateur users — and will take this valuable tool out of commission until repaired. Overstrike happens when you swing the head too far out and the part of the handle right beneath the head whacks into the log.

Common handle materials

Wood:

• Pros: light, absorbs shock well, and is infinitely replaceable with a little effort.
• Cons: easiest to break or splinter.

Synthetics (mostly fiberglass):

• Pros: lightweight, very strong, good shock absorption.
• Cons: very difficult to repair or replace.

Metal:

• Pros: strongest, lets the axe double as a pry bar.
• Cons: very heavy, transmits shock right to your wrists and arms.

We take those tradeoffs into consideration when thinking about urban vs. rural and skilled vs. amateur preppers. For example, if you live far away from the woods or if you have no idea how to go about fashioning a replacement axe handle, then you might pick a synthetic-handled axe and hope it never breaks.

Don’t plan to fell big trees in a disaster

For every prepper who’s within bug-out distance of a forest, chopping wood for fire and shelter is a necessary and appropriate part of surviving.

But “chopping wood” does not equal “chopping down trees with an axe.” The former is essential, while the latter is a very bad idea for anything but the smallest trees — unless you’re already experienced enough that this guide is pointless.

Felling trees is far more dangerous than it looks, especially with an axe (regardless of axe size). No matter how easy it looks on YouTube, you should not attempt to fell trees that are larger than about half a foot in diameter.

It’s also the case that even with chainsaws and trucks to haul wood in, it can take weeks to prepare enough firewood to heat a cabin for a full winter in any geography where it gets really cold. With axes it can take part of a summer, and that’s if you already know what you’re doing.

If the situation absolutely requires you to fell a tree, and there’s just no getting around it, then you should use a saw — preferably a chainsaw. This is still quite dangerous, but it’s less insane than an untrained axe user wailing away on a large tree.

Best axe for most people: Estwing Camper’s Axe

• Price: $$
• Specs: 26” length, 3.4 lbs weight, all-steel construction, shock-absorbing handle, general-purpose head shape
• Pros: indestructible, great brand reputation, widely available, inexpensive
• Cons: heavy, low splitting ability for the weight

Who should buy this: The $80 Estwing Camper’s Axe is ideal for anyone who lives in a city or suburb, where space is at a premium and they may have to chop materials besides wood.

It’s also good for someone with little or no experience using an axe, who will be prone to overstrike and other axe abuse that could quickly break a wooden or synthetic handle.

At 3.4 pounds, this axe is heavier than the more expensive alternatives, making it less preferable long on-foot bug outs. But it works well for bugging in, vehicle bug outs, or shorter on-foot trips.

If you want to optimize and specialize for a specific environment, activity, or skill level, then you can do better than the Estwing — but for affordable value and all-around flexibility, it’s impossible to beat and will last you a lifetime.

Benefits: The Estwing’s all-steel design makes it strong enough to withstand serious abuse like hard hammering or overstriking, so it’s forgiving for unskilled or fatigued/injured users.

This axe is compact enough to be easily stored in a closet or under a bed, or fit into a pack for short distances. It’s tough enough to be used to hack through a door or wall. The hammer poll can be used for striking in a pinch.

The Estwing’s head shape and edge profile are along the lines of a Hudson Bay pattern, but it’s very thin. The thinness gives it plenty of bite in our own testing and makes it a very capable cutter despite its poor weight distribution. But it will stick in wood and is not wide enough for serious log splitting.

The large beard means you can choke up on it for carving and slicing and get your hand behind the edge — but the thin, diamond shape around the edge makes this uncomfortable. So this is not a general-purpose bushcraft axe, and is not popular with bushcrafters.

The handle steel is relatively soft to help with toughness and shock absorption, but it means you can bend the axe if you attempt to pry with it. But it can be beat back into shape if that happens.

Downsides: The Estwing’s all-steel construction has three main drawbacks: lack of shock absorption, poor edge retention, and poor length-to-weight ratio. The first downside affects comfort and fatigue, and the latter two affect performance.

The steel handle transmits the shock of axe blows directly to the user’s wrists and arms. This increases fatigue when using the axe for long period. The shock-absorbing handle and softer steel help with this, somewhat, but it’s still an issue.

The ductile steel that makes the handle of this axe so tough also makes the thin, V-grind edge more quick to roll and dull than the harder, convex edges of the other axes in this guide.

The Camp Axe’s overall length is much shorter than competing wood-handled axes in the ~3.5lb range, which also reduces chopping ability by reducing leverage.

In short, this axe gives up some efficiency and portability (despite its compact size) in exchange for its incredible, amateur-friendly indestructibility.

Brand and product reputation: Our research and first-hand experience with Estwing axes indicates that this American-made brand has a sterling reputation with campers, construction workers, preppers, and outdoorsmen. We have found no significant complaints about the quality of Estwing products and consider this to be a very reliable family of tools.

Overall upgrade pick: Gransfors Bruks Small Forest Axe

• Price: $$$$
• Specs: 19” length, 2b weight, hickory handle, hand-forged carbon steel head
• Pros: unmatched reputation, iconic bushcraft and camping tool, excellent for cutting, carving, and general bushcraft chores
• Cons: less suited for splitting, you pay a bit extra for the brand name

Who should buy this: The $235 “GB SFA” is the best compact survival axe for pack-weight-conscious preppers in the hardwood, arboreal forests of North America. This is also for preppers who want to buy the reigning champ and enjoy the resulting peace of mind from knowing you’ve got a premium tool with legendary status and celebrity endorsements.

Benefits: At 19 inches long and only 2 pounds in weight, the SFA is really more of a large hatchet than an axe, with a head that’s optimized more for cutting than splitting (thought it does split), and that can be very effectively choked up on for use in place of a knife for carving, slicing, food and game preparation, and other fine cutting chores.

The SFA is so effective at general-purpose cutting tasks that some bushcrafters who use one prefer it to the fixed-blade field knife for everything but batoning.

Downsides: The Gransfors price premium is the only downside peculiar to this axe, and it’s not nearly as high on this particular model as it is on some other axes in the Gransfors line. Any other downsides of the SFA are shared by their similarly-compact competitors — namely, the compact size reduces chopping ability and user safety compared to a full-sized axe.

Brand and product reputation: This amazing tool is the gold standard in this space, even to the point of being an important part of the cultural history of axes. Note the outsized popularity of this brand and model — thanks in part to an endorsement by famous bushcrafter Ray Mears — has created an online backlash by people who automatically dislike something so popular. Ignore them.

City and suburbs upgrade pick: Fire Axe Inc JP Special

• Price: $$$$
• Specs: 28” length, 4lbs weight, 1200lb-rated fiberglass handle, forged and chromed carbon steel head
• Pros: indestructible, great brand reputation, premium professional demolition tool
• Cons: heavy, better for demolition than wood chopping

The $240 Fire Axe Inc JP Special 4lb Pick Head Axe is perfect for escape, rescue, demolition, and B&E in urban environments. Even though you might end up chopping down trees in Central Park, our top choices for people in developed areas are based on a handling a wide mix of materials and activities.

And when we have to choose between axes great for chopping wood vs. anything else, in this category we optimize for more urban needs like navigating damaged buildings, breaking into locked rooms and containers, making access holes for ventilation or surveillance, or busting up furniture for firewood.

Note: The above link takes you to the Fire Axe Inc JP Special with a wood handle (item# JPSW). The same axe is available with a fiberglass handle (item# JPSF) for the same price, but you need to contact the company and ask for that specific model.

Benefits: The heavy, chrome polished, carbon steel head will chop right through nails, wiring, and other tough industrial materials without taking damage.

But it’s still capable of chopping wood. Although if you’re using it on trees, the blade’s width and shape make it much better for splitting than cutting.

The pick on the back of the head is used for creating holes in sheetrock or wood, and lets the axe operate as a pry bar to force open doors and windows.

The 1200-pound rated fiberglass handle is light yet strong enough to pry with. The low weight of the handle, when combined with the heavy head, makes the axe a devastating splitter despite its short length.

Downsides: The main downside to this axe is the weight. At four pounds, it’s intended to ride for short distances on the belt.

The pick head also prevents it from easily being used as a hammer, although you can hammer with the side of the head if you have to.

The blade profile and ergonomics make it unsuited for common bushcraft tasks that involve fine work, so it has to be paired with a field knife for those jobs.

Brand and product reputation: This axe is commonly recommended on firefighter and first responder forums as an aspirational product, i.e. a speciality, premium tool that you spring for when you’re serious about your work, and that you carry with pride and plan to hand down to your children.

Because this is a niche product carried at speciality outlets, there aren’t many traditional product reviews of it, but all the discussions of it we’ve read are highly positive with no reports of flaws or quality control problems.

Best overall rural axe: Hults Bruk Kisa Medium Felling Axe

• Price: $$$$
• Specs: 26” length, 2,86 lbs weight, 2lb head weight, linseed oil-treated hickory handle, hand-forged carbon steel head
• Pros: legendary brand reputation, premium bushcraft and camping tool, more of a cutter than a splitter
• Cons: none that are particular to this axe

Who should buy this: The $180 Hults Bruk Kisa Medium Sized Felling Axe is a great choice if you live in a rural area, especially in northern areas with hardwood forests, but still care about portability.

Note that none of our rural axe recommendations are on the full-sized end of the spectrum — the very largest axes used by lumberjacks solely to fell large standing trees — because in any case you want it to be portable enough to move on foot if you really need to.

Benefits: The 26-inch Kisa axe is a bit shorter and more lightweight than would be ideal for a straight tree-felling axe. In return for not going overboard into full-sized tree felling axe territory, you get a compact axe that can do everything you’ll need an axe to do in the woods.

At 2.86 pounds, we’d consider it packable for modest distances, and many bushcrafters actually carry this axe (or one this size) as part of their standard loadout. For some experienced bushcrafters, the Kisa is the “one blade” they’d want with them in the woods.

The head is a traditional pattern that works for both cutting and splitting, but is a little more optimized for cutting. It’s easy to choke up on the head for use in non-chopping bushcraft tasks like fuzz stick making and carving. The poll can be used as a hammer in an emergency.

With the Kisa, you get a hand-forged, Swedish axe from one of the world’s oldest and most reputable axe makers, and it offers the same quality and features as the comparable $245 Gransfors Bruks Scandinavian Forest Axe at a lower price point.

Downsides: Any downsides this axe has are shared by all axes in this category, e.g. the wooden handle will break eventually, and the size and weight make it less portable than more compact axes or hatchets. But we’re aware of no downsides particular to this axe.

As with all quality wood-handled tools, you’ll want to store this axe indoors when possible — it’s not something to throw in your truck bed.

Brand and product reputation: This axe model is very popular with bushcrafters, and gets rave reviews in forums, on YouTube, and at retailer sites. Hults Bruk’s reputation is legendary, and we’re not aware of any criticisms of their quality control.

Also great for rural preppers: Helko Journeyman

• Price: $$$
• Specs: 20” length, 2.2 lb weight, 1.5 lb head weight, Swiss-made hickory handle, hand-forged carbon steel head
• Pros: great brand reputation, premium wood processing tool, equally balanced between splitting and cutting abilities
• Cons: less suited for non-chopping bushcraft work

Who should buy this: Pick up the $150 Helko Journeyman instead of the Hults Bruk Kisa if you want something that’s more portable but still good at processing hardwood.

Benefits: The Journeyman’s head shape strikes a balance between cutting and splitting ability, making it a versatile camp axe for creating fire and shelter. The head has a mirror polish to reduce getting stuck in wood and that resists rust from natural moisture. The poll is safe to use for light hammering, since the maker has explicitly designed it for such use.

Downsides: This axe’s head shape makes it a bit less ideal for carving and other knife-type work. So you’ll want to pair it with a good field knife for non-wood-processing chores.

Helko axes often don’t have quite the same hand-finished feel as the Hults Bruk axes — which might be part of the reason the competitive HB Kisa is $10-20 more — so keep that in mind if you care about aesthetics and your tastes lean more towards the traditional, rustic vibe.

Brand and product reputation: Helko is relatively obscure in the US (outside of axe-nerd circles) compared to the major US and Swedish makers, so English-language reviews of this specific model are rare. But we’ve found no complaints about the brand, and this product’s reputation is top-notch in all the sources we reviewed.

Budget pick for rural preppers: Council Tool 2.25# Boy’s Axe

• Price: $$
• Specs: 24” length, 3.5lb weight, 2.5lb head weight, hickory handle, hand-ground carbon steel head
• Pros: legendary brand reputation, quality wood processing tool, balanced between splitting and cutting abilities
• Cons: none that are particular to this axe

Who should buy this: If you want an axe specialized for rural needs but want to spend less than $100, check out the $50 Council Tool 2.25# 24” Boy’s Axe.

Benefits: The CT Boy axe is a budget offering from a premium maker, which we prefer over products made by purely budget manufacturers like Snow & Nealley. This is a well-tested design that’s based on an axe used for years by the US Forest Service, and it’s similar in size and shape to an axe preferred by bushcraft legend Mors Kochanski.

Downsides: The finishing on this is rougher than on the company’s premium lines, and the poll and eye walls aren’t hardened to support hammering. But it’s unlikely that most preppers will really notice much difference if they aren’t comparing this axe side-by-side with a premium offering.

This is a splitting and cutting axe, and not as much a general-use bushcraft/carving axe that can substitute for a field knife.

Brand and product reputation: Council Tool’s offerings are widely considered to be on-par with the best European makers, and in some cases a cut above. We have read about cases where buyers of axes in the company’s budget lines have gotten products with handle issues, but the customer service is outstanding and returns are handled professionally.

The competition

Outside of our top contenders, there’s a whole secondary group of great axes that might fit the specific price or features you’re looking for:

Snow & Neally Hudson Bay ($68): A popular American-made pick for budget compact bushcraft axes. The length and weight is typical of the classic Hudson Bay pattern. In fact, if you want to get as close as possible to the specs of the Gransfors Bruks Ray Mears Wilderness Axe, then this S&N axe is a very close match at a far cheaper price.

Wood Tools Bushcraft Axe ($63): This is a new one to us, but we got a sample and we absolutely love it. This wonderful little hand-ground axe is designed on the model of the perpetually out-of-stock Ray Mears Gransfors Bruks axe, but a bit lighter and shorter. This axe is clearly a labor of love from a boutique shop that, in our opinion, is criminally underpricing its work. We’ve used this axe in a number of pictures in this guide, including the main guide image at the top of the article, so if you like what you see then hurry up and order one before the maker figures out what’s up and doubles the price.

Helko Rheinland Pack Axe ($150): This is a beautiful, bushcraft-focused axe from Helko. It’s along the same lines as the Wood Craft Pack Axe from Council Tool, in that it’s a relatively recent, premium, retro-styled offering aimed at the bushcraft crowd. It’s designed to be lightweight and packable, and to work for carving and other bushcraft chores. Unlike all the other axes in this guide except for the Mueller axe, the axe head shape is a very traditional German all-purpose woodworking pattern. At least one expert review we’ve seen claims that fit and finish on this axe is not quite as good as competing Swedish offerings, but in terms of performance no one disputes that it can hold its own.

Helko Scout ($165): The Scout is a great cutting and splitting axe for preppers who care less about portability and more about getting through lots of wood more efficiently. Between the head weight, handle length, and head shape, this is a better high-volume wood processor than the more cutting-focused axes like the Hults Bruk Kisa, but is not as suited for use as a knife alternative for fine bushcraft work.

Hultafors Classic Hunting Axe ($130): The Hultafors-branded axes aren’t available in the US, so our European readers should give this compact bushcraft axe a very close look.

Hults Bruk Aneby ($160): This is as close as you can get to the Hultafors Classic Hunting axe in the US, and like the Classic Hunting Axe it’s a fine alternative to the Gransfors Bruks Small Forest Axe (SFA).

Ray Mears Gransfors Bruks Wilderness Axe ($175): This famous axe model was designed by Ray Mears, as a midpoint between Gransfors Bruks’ Scandinavian Forest Axe and their Small Forest Axe. It’s never in stock, but if you do score one it’s a wonderful tool. You’ll pay extra for the names on it, though.

Helko Black Forest Woodworker ($160): This is Helko’s flagship product, a beautiful, traditional design that fills the same general-purpose wilderness axe niche as the Gransfors Scandinavian Forest Axe. It has a head that’s slightly heavier than other axes in this size range, and based on overall design it’s a very good general-purpose bushcraft and survival axe.

Council Tool Wood Craft Pack Axe ($155): This axe was recently introduced, and has a ton of features aimed at the bushcraft and survival crowd. The hardened eyewall and poll are designed for hammering, and head shape is made for a mix of cutting, carving, slicing, and general camp use. It’s often out of stock, and some reviewers claim the overall fit and finish level on this model is higher than that of even the premium European axe makers.

Council Tool Velvicut Hudson Bay ($145): The Velvicut line is one of Council Tool’s two premium axe lines, which makes this the axemaker’s best Hudson Bay pattern offering. If you want a traditional Hudson Bay type axe, then this is the top of the line.

Gransfors Bruks Scandinavian Forest Axe ($245): The larger alternative to the Gransfors SFA, this iconic axe has played a major role in the revival of the premium axe scene in the US and Europe. These axes are very hard to come by online right now, and if you can find one in stock it may have a significant markup.

Snow & Nealley Single Bit 2.25# ($80): A budget wood chopper from a solid US axemaker, consider this an alternative to the Council Tool Boy’s Axe of the same size.

Mueller Biber Classic Forest Axe ($150): This axe is similar in shape to the Helko Rheinland Pack Axe, but it’s much larger. It’s a traditional German axe from an established, boutique Austrian maker, and the quality is impeccable, especially for the price.

More info about axe brands

Hultafors is one of the two top-tier Swedish axe makers that still runs its own factory (the other is Gransfors Bruks), and the products are popular with bushcrafters for their high quality and outstanding value. Hultafors axes are fully hand forged, and generally come in two finishes: a cheaper, standard finish and a more expensive, premium finish.

Hultafors also owns Hults Bruk, and axes from both brands come from the same foundry. There are some differences in labeling and branding, depending on the year, but you should consider the two brands as equivalent and just look at the specifics of the model.

Gransfors Bruks is a high-end maker of fully hand-forged Swedish axes. Thanks to a combination of craftsmanship and celebrity bushcrafter Ray Mears’ endorsements, GB has become the bushcraft community gold standard. You pay a premium for the Gransfors Bruks name, though it’s not always clear that the quality difference is worth the price difference over the other top makers — you have to evaluate on a case-by-case basis. But if you can afford to ignore the price difference, and you just want the fan favorite, then this is your axe maker.

Wetterlings is a venerable Swedish axe maker now wholly owned by Gransfors Bruks, and the latter has stopped making axes under the Wetterlings mark as of 2017. If you find a Wetterlings axe for sale it’s usually of very high quality, so buy with confidence.

Snow and Nealley is an Amish axe maker that has been based in Maine since the late 1800’s, and they’re still turning out high-quality, traditional wood-handled axes at unbeatable prices. Many of our budget picks are from this maker. The axe heads were briefly made overseas, hence a smattering of negative reviews that claim they’re made in China or Mexico, but they’re back to being made in the US out of US-sourced steel and hickory.

Estwing is an American tool maker familiar to many from big box retailers, and they make very good axes at budget prices. The Estwings’ all-metal construction — even the handle is metal — is a strength and a weakness. These axes are much heavier than their wood- and synthetic-handled counterparts, but are bombproof.

Council Tool is based in North Carolina, and the company’s premium Velvicut and Wood-Craft lines are on par in price and quality to the top European makers. Their budget axes have differences in tempering and finish from their premium line, but are still quite good. They made axes for the National Forestry service for a while, and have a sterling reputation among axe enthusiasts.

All the Council Tool axes are drop forged, which means that the blacksmith holds the heated metal with tongs while a machine hammers it. So they’re sometimes billed as “hand forged,” and this is accurate for some definition of the term, but they’re not hammer-forged like a Hults, Gransfors, or Mueller, so they don’t have quite the same aesthetics.

Helko is a German maker of fine, traditional axes for forestry and woodcraft. Their offerings generally compare in price, quality, and features to the top Swedish and American makers. Helko’s axe heads are drop-forged, like those of Council Tool.

Husqvarna is a chainsaw maker that is now in the budget axe business. The company sources its axe heads from the Hults Bruk factory, and for this reason many people on the internet who don’t know how quality control, steel selection, finishing, and tempering work have concluded that the heads must be therefore be identical to Hults Bruk/Hultafors heads. This is trivially false, as even different lines from the same maker will have different steel, tempering, and quality variances.

We haven’t included any of Husqvarna axes in our guide because the reviews are so mixed — people either love their axe or they hate it because they’ve broken the head in half. But we did want to mention this brand in order to debunk the myth that you can get a Hults Bruk head on the cheap by buying one of these budget axes and doing some of your own finishing work on it.

Mueller is a small, family-owned Austrian company that has been making axes continuously for over 300 years, and their reputation is excellent. They aren’t as widely known in some of the other high-end makers, but their price and quality are considered on par with the best. Their axe heads are fully hand forged.

Axe safety

There’s an old saying: “You can’t spell accident without axe.” Yeah, the spelling doesn’t work, but you get it. Axes are dangerous. Watch some videos and heed these tips:

• Always use two hands.
• Set up a dedicated safe area free of rocks, hazards, and (most importantly) other people. Nobody comes near you while you’re swinging an axe.
• Always position yourself so you’re out of the path of your swing if you miss your target and it keeps going. Sometimes this will feel awkward and inefficient, but do it anyway.
• Aways swing so that if the axe glances off the wood it won’t hit your body with the edge. Again, this may make your swing suboptimal, but it’s even less optimal to end up with an axe in you.
• Always make sure your axe is sharp. Learn the best ways for preppers to sharpen blades.
• Always carry your axe with the blade pointing toward the ground.
• Never use your axe when the head is cold, because it will be more brittle and likely to chip. If it’s winter, then warm the head up by a fire or by placing it next to your body before using it.

Notice that two of these safety rules are about how you position your body in relation to your swing. This is hard to get right, and it’s where most people have accidents.

In general, a shorter handle takes more care to be safe with than a longer handle, because the head swings that much closer to your body and vital organs.

It also matters how long your arms are and how tall your body is in relation to the axe’s length, so a shorter axe can be safer for a smaller person. Think about this length vs. safety factor when you’re selecting and using an axe, because all that sweet portability you bought by going with a 19-inch pack axe does you no good if the edge ends up buried in your leg.

The annual Athlon Outdoors Rendezvous has become a major event that lends itself to a lucky few getting an early glimpse of new products that could shake things up once they hit the market. Sometimes it’s simply a chance to get more quality time with products that have been available to shooters, as well as giving the manufacturers a chance to download more pertinent and in-depth info to us enthusiasts. This year the sampling of long-range rifles and optics impressed.

Long-Range Rifles

The long-range side of Rendezvous remains a much-anticipated segment. We get to shoot at extended distances (1 mile) in challenging and often tricky wind conditions. This allows us to get a grasp on the level of performance these products are capable of in real-world settings. The course of fire is challenging, with environmental conditions that can change at a moment’s notice.

This year didn’t disappoint in the tactical long-range department. Targets from 100 yards to a mile were on tap, and the weather in the Tetons did what it does best. Luckily, the manufacturers brought out solid pieces for us to shoot.

Barrett MRAD MK22

The MRAD is simply awesome. Every sample of this rifle, no matter where I’ve encountered one, has been an absolute tack-driver—a term that I think is nauseatingly overused but completely applicable to Barrett’s award-winning and military-solicitation-winning long-range precision rifle. I guess you could call it a true sniper rifle.

While several versions of the MRAD have shown up at past Rendezvous, this year, we got a taste of the MK22 Advanced Sniper Rifle System, which is the rifle deployed by our elite warrior units.

The MK22 is a bolt-action repeater featuring a multi-caliber capability that few possess. It can be modified to chamber eight different calibers, including long- and short-action options, and can accommodate multiple barrel lengths.

MK 22 Features

The MK 22 features a full-length monolithic upper receiver with a Pic rail that runs the length of the top. The handguard includes slots in the 3, 6, and 9 o’clock positions, which can be utilized via M-LOK attachment-type accessories.

The MK22 has an incredible drop-in match-grade, two-stage trigger. It’s fully adjustable as well with a crisp break. This trigger, coupled with the tool-less adjustability of the foldable stock for length of pull and comb height, makes the Barrett beyond easy to shoot precisely no matter the shooter’s experience level. It also features an action that is ultra-smooth, with a bolt handle placement that makes operation simple for right- or left-handed shooters.

Shooting the MRAD out to a mile, especially chambered in 300 Norma, was an absolute joke and every run of the bolt is perfect, making you feel like a rock star all the time. The MRAD MK22 as well as all the MRAD models are of the highest quality and performance levels in the precision space.

SIG Sauer Cross

SIG’s Cross made its debut at our 2020 Rendezvous. The Cross comes in as a lightweight, multipurpose, do-all bolt-action rifle that I like to refer to as the “everyman’s” bolt-action rifle.

The Cross takes minimalist and maximizes capabilities by being modular and feature-rich. The core of the Cross is a one-piece receiver that reminds one of an AR-type platform. This design is to improve rigidity and accuracy.

The receiver gets a barrel much like that of an AR platform, with a barrel nut and barrel extension with a pin that mates up to a slot in the receiver. This means the Cross barrel can be changed out fairly easily, and Sig has different lengths available depending on what caliber. Speaking of caliber, the Cross is available in 6.5 Creedmoor with an 18-inch barrel as well as .308 and the elusive 277 Sig Fury with 16-inch pipes.

The Cross is highly adjustable, especially for being so basic in nature. The length of pull and cheek pad height can all be easily changed, and the stock folds too. It’s sure to fit any shooter well.

Don’t let all the “minimal” and “basic” terminology fool you. The Cross performs like any quality precision rifle should with excellent accuracy that’s easy to call upon. Thousand-yard shots with consecutive and repeatable impacts in a package that’s easy to live with. It will make a believer out of anyone.

ZEV Technologies Large Frame Billet .308

Precision is not only left to the bolt actions. Plenty of gas-operated rifles are capable of extended range entertainment, and ZEV is delivering the goods with its Large Frame Billet rifle chambered in .308.

If the name ZEV appears on it then it’s going to be an eyeful of delight, and this rifle doesn’t disappoint. The billet upper and lower are 7075-T6 and machined to perfection with aesthetic styling and cues to make anyone envious.

It features a match-grade 16-inch barrel from 416R SS with a beautiful bronze PVD coating that is most excellent. The twist rate is 1:10 and it has a mid-length gas system. The barrel is topped with a ZEV muzzle brake to tame the recoil, which it does along with an H3 buffer. With this combination, ZEV is claiming sub-MOA accuracy, which I have no reason to doubt based on my 500-yard stroll with it in Idaho.

The trigger is an ATC AR Gold model featuring a flat face. The breaking weight is clean 2.5 pounds which helps in the accuracy department as well. Where the gas gun shines over the bolt is its ease of operation. No bolt to run, just press reset, press, and the short reset on the AR Gold trigger makes short work of this.

Controls are ambidextrous, which this southpaw long-gunner loves. I sat down behind the ZEV and confirmed some hits at 300 then shot it at 500 yards. After a few consecutive hits I knew what I needed to. The ZEV will deliver fast and accurate shots and look dang good while doing it.

CZ 600 Series

CZ is no stranger to rifles of all sorts. From big-bore hunting rifles to take large game in Africa, to police sniper rifles, and one of the best .22 trainers to ever exist, CZ has a whole host of offerings for the precision-minded shooter.

The 600 series bolt action was on tap during the Rendezvous, and it represents a new direction for the bolt-action side of CZ, with new technologies, materials, design, and focus. The goal is to meet the needs of many shooters, which while sounding like the right thing to say, is a difficult idea to execute.

Think of the 600 series as a multi-role bolt action rifle with versatility as the key feature. Meanwhile, there are several models in the 600 lineup: Alpha, Range, Trail, and Lux, each with its own set of unique and specific features for the particular shooter.

The Range most closely resembles the long-range precision shooter’s anatomy with a heavy contour, hammer-forged barrel, and a sub-3/4 MOA guarantee for five shots. This guarantee is verified before any rifle leaves the factory.

The Range features a beautiful laminated wooden stock with adjustable comb height and a button hook with pic rail to attach a monopod or bag rider. It also gets QD stud beneath the forend and on either side.

The receiver of the Range is drilled and tapped for Rem 700-type scope bases, so compatibility should be a breeze. The heavy barrel is 24 inches long and is threaded for a suppressor or brake as well.

An adjustable, single-stage trigger makes its way into the Range to help ensure the accuracy of the rifle. The Range is chambered in 6mm Creedmoor or .308. Choose wisely before you hit the Range.

Long-Range Optics

EOTech Vudu Optics Line

The EOTech Vudu line has been going strong for several years. I’ve had extensive run on the 5-25×56 and it has performed well with excellent glass quality and accurate tracking in a rather compact package.

When a magnification range that high isn’t necessary, Vudu has both 1-6 and 1-8×24 offerings as well, each offering excellent glass and easy-to-use reticles. An 8X option is good for gas guns, but a little more is needed for any precision work, and 10X is about the cutoff for that. Thankfully, EOTech now has an option to fit the bill with its new 1-10×24 VPO (variable power optic).

The new 1-10, like any good precision optic, is available as a first focal plane scope, so the reticle will grow and shrink with the magnification setting. This means that measurements taken through the optic with the reticle will be correct no matter the magnification settings. Yes, the reticle can get kind of small on the “1” setting, but illumination will help make it visible for the role that magnification is intended for.

I was able to use the Vudu 1-10 to fire effectively to 500 yards mounted on top of a custom 6.5 Creedmoor bolt-action rifle. Such an optic will easily let the shooter go further than that. What the 1-10 offers is high-level versatility within certain parameters.

Other features include excellent turrets, with .1-MRAD adjustments on the MIL version and .25-minute adjustment on the MOA version. It also features an included throw lever.

Axeon 6-24×50 Long Distance Shooting Rifle Scope

The budget-minded shooter is looking for products that can deliver performance without breaking the bank, and Axeon may have the goods in its 6-24×50 Long Distance Shooting Rifle Scope.

Featuring a 50mm tube and fully multi-coated objective lens, the Axeon SF Long Distance Scope has the right stuff for the precision shooter. A 30mm tube also makes its way on board, making it easy to find rings for attachment.

There are several other features that will bring a smile to the end user’s face, adding even more value to this optic. The tactical turrets are exposed, so making quick adjustments to elevation and windage is easy and no worries about losing caps. The turrets come zero-reset adjustable. It also features side parallax adjustment to get it dialed in just right. The reticle is a Mil-Dot version featuring 1/4-MOA adjustments with audible clicks.

The optic proves rugged as well, delivering a lot for a price of $299.

Riton 7 Conquer Optic

Riton is a Rendezvous favorite due to its ability to consistently bring new optics products in every category, from reflex sights to spotting scopes, LPVOs, and my favorite, long-range precision optics. And Riton has proven over and over again that you can have great performance at an affordable price—something I’ve long disputed.

The 7 Conquer 3-24×56 is one such optic. The 7 Conquer has Riton HD/ED glass. A bright and clean picture awaits the user. The reticle is an illuminated first focal plane type, so ranging will be consistent across the magnification range. The Oden reticle is a Christmas tree type and is easy to see. While it may seem intimidating, it is full of information for the trained shooter and will allow for easy and accurate holds for elevation and windage. The reticle also features six levels of illumination and auto shut off.

The turrets on the 7 Conquer are excellent with great feedback. It’s a MIL type with .1 MRAD adjustments and a Zero Stop feature, meaning you’ll always be able to get your dials back on track should you lose your way.

Waterproof and shockproof, durability is a thing with Riton optics, and the 34mm tube takes abuse well. I have shot the Riton’s to a mile and beyond, and they always perform at a high level. They also feature a Lifetime Warranty, but you’re not likely to have to use it.

This content was originally posted by Ballistic magazine in March 2022.

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Knowing what basic turkey talk sounds like and being able to mimic these sounds will make the difference between a fan bobbing over your shoulder and tag soup.

by Scott Haugen

As I write these words, spring turkey season is only a few days away. Where I live in the Pacific Northwest, it’s believed to be our most harsh spring conditions since the early 1980s. I’m scouting for turkeys daily, and what I see is far different from last season.

Many hens and juvenile birds are still in large family flocks. Several toms are in bachelor flocks of the same age class, and their strutting and gobbling have been very subdued. We’re supposed to have freezing temperatures and snow the next few days, which may further delay turkey courtship and breeding activity.

Knowing this, I plan on hunting on opening day in some extensive stands of Douglas fir timber. We’ve had constant rain for days, and this is where many of the turkeys have been seeking shelter. The hens spend a lot of time preening, and because they’re in family flocks, the birds are vocal when there’s a break in the weather.

On opening day, I plan to emulate what I hear from turkeys, such as soft hen yelps with more kee-kees than I usually use this time of year. I’ll also use deeper-sounding tom yelps, which I’ve detected on my Stealth Cam trails cam video clips lately. For my decoy setup, I’ll use a new Preening Hen from Dave Smith Decoys and possibly an Upright Hen if birds hang out in big numbers and the rain continues to fall.

I’ve been fortunate to hunt turkeys in many places around our great country, and I base much of my calling on what the birds do at the time and place I’m hunting.

One season began in Florida in 80-degree temperatures, and I also hunted on a 16-degree day with snow in Washington state a few days later. Knowing what sounds turkeys make, and more importantly, what they mean, has dramatically impacted my nearly 40 years of turkey hunting.

While turkeys are vocal all year long, here are some sounds to tune into this spring.

Hen Yelp

The hen makes the most commonly heard sound in the turkey woods, called a hen yelp or plain yelp. Toms and jakes also yelp, but it’s louder, raspier, and usually more drawn-out than that of hens.

The hen yelp is an introductory call and the most straightforward sound. I’d say 80 percent of the toms I’ve called in — and seen called in — have come to a hen yelp. These sounds are usually delivered in a series of one-note tunes and occur when turkeys are within sight of one another. It sends the message that everyone is safe and lets one another know where they are.

Yelps can range from three to seven notes, even up to nine or ten as hens get more excited. The pitch and volume remain constant, with three to four notes created per second and each burst lasting up to .10 seconds. The sequence is simple and resembles a chirp, chirp, chirp, or a yup, yup, yup sound.

Yelps are easily made with box calls, slates, diaphragms, and push-pull calls. The yelp is a good call to bring birds in close, whether you can see them or not. Should birds appear edgy, plain yelps can help calm them. Yelps will also bring in hens, and toms will likely follow them.

The Cluck

The cluck is one of the most basic sounds in the turkey woods, but it still carries a strong meaning. The one to three-note sequence goes like tuck…tuck,…tuck. Its purpose is to get another bird’s attention or reassure an approaching tom that a hen is waiting. It’s a pleasing, attention-grabbing, simple, yet powerful sound when bringing in a tom.

Clucks are made up of one to three single, staccato notes, usually separated by two to three seconds. A cluck’s sharp, crisp sounds are mainly used when an approaching tom hangs up in sight of your setup.

Often, hens are called in with clucks, and I think this is because when turkeys cluck, they like hearing others respond in the same way; it’s their way of saying, “I’m here, and all is safe.” This is true with hen yelps, too. Clucks are not as intense or abrupt as putts, which is an alarm call.

When birds feed, clucks are often made in conjunction with purrs. Clucks and purrs send a message that all is safe and the birds are content, especially in a flock situation. Clucks and purrs, together, sound something like tuck, tuck, errrrr…..tuck, errrrr…tuck, tuck, tuck, errrrr, tuck. Using the cluck and purr together is natural and convincing if looking to pull in wary toms or hens. They’re also good, calm sounds to stop a tom for a shot.

The Purr

As with the cluck, purrs can easily be made on slates, box calls, and push-pull calls. Purrs are tougher to make with diaphragm calls but are worth mastering when you find yourself in the open and need to call hands-free to bring a tom in closer or stop him for a shot.

Purrs are relaxing, almost bubbly sounding, reassurance calls. They send the simple message that birds feel safe. When a flock of birds spreads out, feeding in early spring, purrs can continually be heard. Purrs are soft sounds that roll in a smooth, calming fashion, thus, are not very loud. The purr is a single, drawn-out note that sounds like, errrr. This is a great call to offer when toms are close, especially if they seem nervous.

Kee-Kee

The kee-kee is a call commonly associated with fall turkey hunting. But I’ve had great success with it early in the spring when conditions are cold and wet, and birds are in large flocks. The purpose of the kee-kee is to reassemble broken flocks, and the sound is largely made by young birds who’ve lost track of the congregation and are looking to reassemble with adult birds. Adult birds, primarily hens, also make variations of these sounds, and this is what toms will often respond to.

The kee-kee is usually made up of three relatively coarse and somewhat unevenly spaced kee, kee, kee sounds that, in total, last just over a second. The key to making this call work is sticking to the magic three-note sequence, not extending it. As birds mature, the kee-kee sounds become slightly raspier, which is what you’ll hear in early spring.

The Cutt

Cutts are a series of loud, insistent, fast-paced, single-note sounds turkeys use to announce their presence, often hoping to hear another turkey’s response. It says, “If you hear me and are ready to breed or simply socialize, come find me.”

Cutts are easy sounds on a box or slate call, but diaphragm users may find it challenging due to the complex, stop-start, and rapid pace. Cutts are made in fast bursts of two or three notes, usually followed a second or so later with more of the same. The sequence sounds something like; tut…tut….tut, tut, tut, tut…tut…tut…tut…tut. tut. tut, tut, tut. The sequence varies widely, so if offering these sounds, don’t feel like they have to be exact.

Many hunters like using cutts to locate toms by getting them to shock gobble early in the morning. I use cutts any time of day, all season long, because they are natural turkey sounds used to announce their presence and because they are loud and carry well in the big terrain of the West where I do much of my hunting.

There are other sounds turkeys, and turkey hunters make, many more. But the ones we’ve looked at here are the basics hunters should be able to recognize in the woods and create on their own at any moment.

This turkey season, listen closely to the birds in your area. Know that their sounds — especially in the early season — can vary daily, even hour to hour on those stormy days with momentary sunlight breaks. Being equipped with the right calls, and making the right sounds at the right time, can make a big difference when bringing in a boss tom.

Vortex and Leupold scopes are some of the best optics on the market today. However, both have their strengths and weaknesses that can make either the better scope manufacturer for your needs.

For starters, both brands offer different types of scopes at varying price points. The most common price points are entry-level ($500), mid-range ($500-$1000), upper mid-range ($1000-1500) and high-end ($1500 up).

This review will compare the best Leupold vs. Vortex scopes at each price point. I will then discuss their best features and pit them against each other.

Finally, I will conclude with a verdict on which of the two optic brands, Vortex or Leupold, comes out on top with the best bang for your buck.

Vortex vs. Leupold: Comparison of Scope Series and Offerings

In this head-to-head battle of Leupold vs. Vortex scopes, I have split each rifle scope offering from the two brands into budget categories, from below $500 to upwards of $1500.

If you are eyeing any of these excellent scopes between Vortex or Leupold, take note of the Vortex Viper, Diamondback, Venom, Strike Eagle, PST Gen II, Razor HD, and Golden Eagle.

On the Leupold scope side, meanwhile, keep an eye out for the Leupold VX-Freedom, FX fixed power scopes, Mark 3HD, VX-3HD, VX-5HD, VX-6HD, Mark 6, and Mark 8 models.

Entry-Level Scopes (Up to $500)

On the lower end of the price spectrum, you have the budget/entry-level scopes. Comparing the variety of offerings between the two brands, there are more Vortex scopes, with 40 Vortex models offered (like the Diamondback line) at this range vs. the 27 models for Leupold.

In terms of the magnification range, both Leupold and Vortex offer similar scopes. Vortex offers slightly more with a 3-12x scope model, but other than that, they are highly similar at this price point.

In terms of optical clarity, Leupold scopes on the budget end are slightly better, with better eye relief. They also offer a custom dial system (CDS) to help with bullet drop compensation.

That said, Vortex Optics offers these entry-level scopes at lower prices, the highest being $370, while Leupold scopes tend to be just under $500.

Since these optics are meant for inexperienced shooters looking to buy an affordable first scope, I give the win to Vortex.

WINNER: Vortex

Mid-Range Scopes ($500-$1000)

Fighting in the mid-range battle of Leupold vs. Vortex, you have optics lines such as the Vortex Viper, Strike Eagle, and Venom. On the Leupold optics side, the available options include the Mark 3HD, VX-3HD, and VX-5HD.

Vortex offers 22 models as part of their mid-range series, while Leupold offers 32 models. Scopes from Leupold tend to have more magnification or zoom level range options, with more low to medium-zoom models focused on hunting.

On the other hand, Vortex scopes in this price range lean more towards the higher zoom levels. This means they are probably a better option for long-range shooting than Leupold, which is preferable for closer-range engagements.

Leupold scopes in this price range are usually up against the $1000 price point, while Vortex scopes are $150-$200 cheaper.

This bracket is a tie because of how similar both scope brands’ products are at this specific price point.

WINNER: Draw

Upper Mid-Range Scopes ($1000-$1500)

When comparing upper mid-range scopes between Leupold vs. Vortex, you can consider Leupold models like the Leupold VX-5HD and Leupold VX-6HD and Vortex models like the Vortex PST Gen II and Vortex Razor HD LHT.

It is at this point that the glass quality starts to improve significantly. While both offer excellent glass clarity, Leupold has slightly better glass. Their scopes use the same technology they use for their Leupold Binocular lines.

Any Leupold rifleman scope in this price range also has the CDS turrets as standard, which helps improve the longer-range accuracy of users. Vortex scopes do not have this option.

Both Vortex and Leupold scopes are a lot closer in terms of price point. Therefore, I will have to give the slight edge and prefer Leupold due to their slightly superior optical quality and better adjustment turrets.

WINNER: Leupold

High-End Scopes ($1500 and up)

When pitting Leupold vs. Vortex rifle scopes at the higher-end spectrum, consider the Vortex Golden Eagle, Vortex Razor HD, Leupold VX-5HD, Leupold VX-6HD, Leupold Mark 6, and Leupold Mark 8.

Leupold offers 38 scopes, while Vortex Optics only has 16 scopes at this range, meaning they have more options for better rifle scopes in this category. Leupold and Vortex scopes in this category focus on long-range hunting or shooting.

When it comes to high prices, there is a Leupold scope that costs upwards of $4500, which is more than any Vortex Optics scope. However, your primary focus is the performance rather than price value when choosing at a premium scope range.

Therefore, I prefer Leupold because of its slightly better scope glass clarity, and wider variety of options for those looking for a high-end, top-of-the-line scope.

WINNER: Leupold

Vortex vs. Leupold: Comparison of Scope Features

When picking between Leupold and Vortex optics, there are a few features that you must consider.

• Unique features and technologies
• Accuracy
• Reliability
• Reticle options and ballistics solutions
• Look and feel
• Budget and price range
• Warranty and customer support
• Brand history
• Ease of use

Each person will have different priorities in what they value in a scope, and what’s number 1 on this list will often come down to personal preference.

Picking the best Vortex scope and the best Leupold scope requires picking one that has the features you deem to be the most important in spades.

Features and Technologies

When comparing a Leupold and Vortex scope, one of the first differences you will notice is the set of features and technologies stuffed in. Both companies’ scopes have different design philosophies.

Leupold scopes have a focus on premium optical quality and easily adjustable turrets. On the other hand, Vortex scopes are focused on long-range shooting since they use many bullet drop-compensating reticles.

Both brands’ scopes have excellent light transmission and optical clarity, but Leupold scopes use superior construction technologies and scope components, especially in their cheaper optics.

This is unsurprising since they also have great-quality Leupold binoculars. While Vortex Optics also offers great technologies that are more focused on their reticles, it cannot compare to the Leupold options.

Accuracy

As mentioned, when comparing Leupold vs. Vortex optical performance, Leupold’s scopes are often superior. While it does not mean Vortex scopes are inaccurate, you get top-quality optics with Leupold.

Both optics manufacturers offer a multitude of construction features on the optic glass, like fog-proof multi-coated lenses to minimize light reflection. However, Leupold’s models usually have better light transmission.

This ultimately means that in low-light situations, a Leupold scope will give you a clearer view of the target, and you will hit it more consistently. However, even Vortex’s optics perform better than other optics in this regard.

Both brands also offer red dot sights with the same outstanding engineering as their long-range counterparts.

Red dot sights or even iron sights are more appropriate if you are only going to be shooting at close range, but fortunately, they can be mounted alongside your scopes for rapid transitions.

Reliability

Almost all scope models from the two brands are made of aircraft-grade aluminum and have fog-proof, waterproof, and multi-coated lenses. They are all also shock-resistant.

For example, the Leupold VX Freedom is constructed of aircraft-grade aluminum and is 100% waterproof, shockproof, and fog-proof for the best performance in any and all conditions.

Vortex scopes are also constructed well, so I must make this comparison segment a draw.

You will not have any difficulties or issues with the scopes from Leupold and Vortex randomly losing zero, whereas this is not always the case with less battle-tested brands.

Reticle Options and Ballistics Solutions

Leupold and Vortex scopes offer different reticle options. Leupold optics usually incorporate the duplex reticle that is popular for hunting. Therefore, it focuses on having a clear, unobstructed sight picture.

On the other hand, Vortex uses BDC (Bullet Drop Compensation) hash-marked reticles and usually offers two options when you buy – Dead-Hold BDC and V-Plex. This reticle is better for shooting at long distances.

Both brands also have first and second focal plane reticle options. They are also illuminated in the first or second focal plane, which is great for shooting in lower-light conditions.

While both scope manufacturers offer illuminated reticle options, Leupold has far more scope models with that option when compared to Vortex.

Look and Feel

When comparing the look and feel of Vortex and Leupold scopes, they are pretty comparable. Most scopes today use an overcoat over the aluminum to make them look uniformly matte and sleek.

Regarding the overall housing of the scopes, both Leupold and Vortex are large enough for performance purposes but not too bulky that they get in the way or appear too big on a rifle. They even offer compact optics if size and weight are major considerations.

The one thing that can distinguish top-tier scopes from the rest is the ease of using the adjustment turrets. Vortex Optics generally have great feeling (and easy to use) windage and elevation turrets.

However, Leupold’s Custom Dial System (CDS), which they use on all their models from low to high end, is just better. It clicks easily enough to adjust quickly but not too easily to be accidentally adjusted when you don’t mean to.

Budget and Price Range

This is one of the most important factors when choosing a scope because you want the best value for the hard-earned money that you make.

While Leupold’s scopes are not the most expensive for their features, Vortex is simply unmatched at giving you more than what you pay for. They consistently offer features and optical quality at lower price points.

This is especially true for their lower and mid-range scope options, where Vortex models are usually $150-$200 cheaper than their Leupold counterparts. That is where the budget savings can truly be felt.

Warranty and Customer Support

Leupold’s warranty offerings are some of the best in the business. They have a lifetime guarantee, regardless of whether you were the rifle optic’s first or tenth owner. They are also not particular about whether you kept the original receipt or not.

The same thing goes for Vortex’s warranty. They call it the “VIP Warranty,” where they will repair or replace any scope you buy from them. That is a lifetime guarantee.

They are also the same when it comes to exceptions to the rule. One mistake most people make is modifying their scopes or adding extra coatings, which will void the warranty.

However, both are perfect examples of what scope brands should follow when it comes to customer service.

After all, an unlimited lifetime warranty offering full repair or replacement with no questions asked – forever, will ensure a user base that lasts a lifetime.

Brand History

When it comes to the history behind both of these rifle scope manufacturers, Vortex Optics is a relatively new manufacturer. They have been producing and selling optics and other sporting goods since 2004.

Other than the rifle scopes they make, they also make wildlife-watching binoculars. Their claims to fame are their excellent value for money and VIP warranty since day one.

However, Vortex cannot compare to Leupold when comparing brand history. The company has been operating for more than a century and has been making rifle scopes since after World War II.

Their rich history also includes providing American law enforcement equipment and accompanying the military in operations across the globe.

Two of their scope series are also noted to be the most popular in America by the NRA.

Vortex vs. Leupold: Which Is Better?

Leupold scopes are the winner for most people, especially those looking for an all-around high-quality scope for hunting or daily use. It also has a rich history, being THE choice for uniformed personnel and civilians alike.

However, Vortex provides much better value for money with their lower prices, which is the most critical factor in choosing a rifle scope for many people.

They also have more reticle options better suited to long-range shooting than Leupold.

The rifle scope you choose will heavily depend on personal preference and your use case. For bang for your buck, Vortex is the best. For the best optical glass possible, choose Leupold.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

After learning more about Leupold and Vortex optics, you might have some other questions about the two scope brands. Here are answers to the most commonly asked questions on this match-up.

What Are the Main Differences Between Leupold and Vortex?

The main differences between Vortex and Leupold models are the price and quality of the optical glass. Generally, Leupold scopes use higher-quality glass than Vortex.

However, Vortex offers optics at a lower cost, meaning they give users a better bang for their buck. It is the preferred option if you need something that gets the job done reliably for less money.

On the other hand, if you are looking for the best scope for the price in terms of quality, Leupold should be your top pick.

Is the Vortex Diamondback Worth It?

The Vortex Diamondback is one of the best starter hunting rifle scope options for those on a budget. This is because of the outstanding reliability, fog-proof design, good zoom level options, and value for money.

You are getting a scope that is not too bulky or heavy, utilizes good-quality glass, and, best of all, is cheaper than other options that offer similar features or zoom levels.

Is the Leupold Mark 5 Worth It?

The Leupold Mark 5HD line offers some of the best quality optical glass you can find at its price point. It offers features like HD lens coatings, a wide array of zoom lenses, and great adjustment turrets.

It is also much lighter than other optics that offer the same zoom lenses, up to 20 ounces lighter than some models. This is particularly useful if you walk a lot with your rifle and do not want to feel the weight.

While it is not the cheapest scope, coming in at just below the $3000 price point, it is worth it. It can go from 5x to 25x zoom with just a few clicks and is clear enough to see the farthest targets without you needing to squint.

Does the US Military Use Leupold Scopes?

The previously mentioned Leupold Mark 5HD is the rifle scope chosen by the US Military as the Army Precision Sniper Rifle Scope. This means it will be one of the main scope options used by precision shooters across all the branches.

This is because of its perfect variety of zoom levels, plus the reliability and optic performance that this particular Leupold model showcases. It is also lighter than other options from optics manufacturers in the same category.

Furthermore, the addition of fog and waterproofing ensures that military snipers will not have issues shooting in less-than-ideal conditions.

Are Vortex Scopes Used by the Military?

Over 250,000 Vortex optic models have been selected by the US Military as their optic of choice on their Next-Generation Squad Weapon System. While they are not in use yet, they will be soon.

The features that this model is required to have include a variable magnification optic, backup etched reticle, atmospheric sensor suite, laser rangefinder, compass, and a ballistic calculator.

These are premium features that may make their way towards the consumer market, too.

Final Thoughts on Vortex vs. Leupold Rifle Scopes

The choice between Leupold or Vortex optic models highly depends on what you value and your personal preferences. Both Vortex and Leupold are great brands that offer high-quality tactical products.

If you value having the best quality optical glass, are more focused on hunting, and are willing to spend a bit more, choose Leupold Optics. They are the best fit for your needs.

On the other hand, if you want the best value for money, are on a tighter budget, or need more options for BDC reticles, then getting Vortex Optics is probably your best bet.

This lines up with what I recommend at each budget price point. If you are getting a budget to mid-range optic, then get Vortex. If you are getting a more expensive model, go for Leupold.

After months of filming wildlife, it’s time to see just what your trail camera captured. Here’s how to view trail camera photos on your computer. The methods vary from simple to fastest. Some methods are automated and require monthly data plans.

There are 4 ways to view your trail camera photos on a computer. They include using a USB cable, using an SD card reader, connecting via WiFi, or syncing photos with a cellular trail camera. Each method will connect your camera and upload your footage to a computer.

How to View Trail Camera Footage on a Computer

Here’s how to view and upload your photos and videos to your computer.

They are listed in order of easiest to more complex. It’s worth noting that the easiest method isn’t the fastest.

1. Connect With Supplied USB Cable (Easiest)

This is an easy method because most trail cameras ship with a USB cable.

This cable is for viewing your photos on a computer. It isn’t for charging, because trail cameras recommend against using rechargeable batteries.

Once connected, your trail camera should automatically display in File Explorer. Your trail camera will display “Mass Storage” or an equivalent term.

Most trail cameras will automatically turn on when connected via USB, regardless of the position of their power button. If it doesn’t power on, turn the power switch on.

1. Connect your USB cable to your trail camera.
2. And insert the other end into your computer. If the camera isn’t recognized automatically, press Window Key + E. This will open File Explorer.
3. Navigate to “This PC”, in the left sidebar. Your trail cam should be visible under this header. It will likely show as “USB Drive”. One folder should be visible: DCIM
4. Open the DCIM folder. You’ll likely see two folders: Movie and Photo. The number of folders may vary, depending on the manufacturer of your trail camera.
5. From here, just drag and drop the files to your computer.

Two Requirements: This method requires that your trail camera have a battery charge. And that you know where your USB cable is.

These are two reasons I prefer the next method. It cuts the camera right out of the equation. This means that battery levels don’t matter. And I don’t have to worry about locating that random cable.

Plus, the next method is faster too.

2. SD Card Reader (Fastest)

This is also a pretty simple way to view your trail camera footage. And if your computer has an SD card reader you won’t need any additional gear.

If you swap out SD cards, your camera can continue to film with its new card, while you’re uploading footage from the old one.

Just pop out your SD card and drop it in the SD card reader. If your computer doesn’t have one built-in, you’ll need to pick one up.

I’ve been using this one by Anker for a few years and I love it. It is USB 3.0 for fast connection and it has slots for standard SD and Micro SD cards.

Here are the steps to view and upload your trail camera footage:

1. Remove the SD card from your trail camera. Make sure that the camera is powered off.
2. Insert the card into either a USB card reader or SD card adapter.
3. Now insert this into your computer. If the card isn’t recognized automatically, press Window Key + E. This will open File Explorer.
4. Navigate to “This PC”, in the left sidebar. Your trail cam should be visible under this header. It will likely show as “USB Drive”. One folder should be visible: DCIM
5. Open the DCIM folder. You’ll likely see two folders: Movie and Photo. The number of folders may vary, depending on the manufacturer of your trail camera.
6. From here, just drag and drop the files to your computer.

This is my favorite method. I have an SD card reader on my desk. And it’s also how I connect my other cameras (GoPro, Canon, Sony, and Olympus) to my computer.

If you don’t love waiting for file transfer, you should consider using an SD card reader. This method is faster than using a USB cable. This is because transfer rates are faster with the USB 3.0 reader than with the supplied cable.

How much faster is a SD card reader? In my test, the USB cable method averaged around 9 MB/s. And the SD card reader transferred the same set of photos and videos (14.1 GB) at a speed of 88 MB/s. That’s almost 10X faster.

• Via USB Cable: 26 minutes
• Via SD Card Reader: Under 3 minutes

Variables: I used the same USB hub and the same SD card (rated for 80 MB/s.

Once you have your SD card connected to your computer, it’s a good idea to format it. Make sure you do this AFTER you upload your footage!

Here’s more about how to properly format your SD card for a trail camera.

3. Connect via WiFi

If you have a WiFi module on your trail camera, you can try to connect this to your home network, and to your phone, via the manufacturer’s app.

A few notes about viewing via WiFi. Your camera will need to be close to your connection. This feature is not made for long-range transmission. Or to deal with physical barriers, like a few trees.

The WiFi module in the camera is underpowered because the batteries are small and power is reserved for filming, not transmitting.

4. Sync Footage From Cellular Trail Camera

If you’re using a cellular-connected trail camera, the images are automatically uploaded to cloud-based storage, where you can access them from your phone or computer.

This is a pretty great option if you have the budget for the purchase of the cellular trail camera and the monthly fee for the data plan. Here’s an explanation of this by Moultrie.

The Final Result

Follow these simple steps and you’ll have your footage and photos uploaded and ready to view.

Here are some clips that I uploaded this morning from some birds this past winter.

Keep reading: Here’s how to troubleshoot a trail camera that won’t turn on.

Your Turn

How do you view trail camera photos on your computer? Have a tip to share? Let me know below!