Do you know what terrifies me more than any other violent encounter?

A knife fight.

I heard someone once say the loser of a knife fight leaves in a hearse, and the winner goes in an ambulance.

It seems, in general, a knife fight is over before it ever starts.

It’s a terrifying proposition to find yourself in any violent situation. But, as Americans, we carry firearms to bridge the gap and protect ourselves against violent attacks.

However, sometimes we can’t have a gun…or a gun might not be the best choice…or maybe the attack happened so fast you can’t access your firearm.

That is where a knife comes into play.

Is it likely you’ll ever use your knife in a self-defense situation?

No, not very likely.

It’s also not statistically likely you’ll use your firearm or tourniquet.

But that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t be prepared to defend yourself with anything on hand.

With that in mind, I’ve gathered some of the best self-defense knives on the market priced under $300.

Why Under $300

For many, a knife that costs $50 is too much. For most, anything over $300 seems crazy.

However, in the knife world, knife guys and gals pay way more than that for some knives.

In truth, the world of knives is massive.

Knives from companies like Microtech can go for as much as $1,000. So, $300 seems a bit more friendly.

This list compiles blades from $20 to $200, ensuring there’s something for just about everyone’s price range.

What to Consider

Before throwing down money on a knife, there are a few things to consider.

Access

How is the knife carried, and how fast can you access it?

Accessing the blade should be rapid and easy to do without much difficulty.

Drawing the knife and getting it into action should be second nature and without complication.

Deployment

Fixed blade knives do not have deployment issues, but folding knives and automatic knives need blades that easily deploy with a single hand. Ambidexterity is a bonus as well.

Concealability

How easily does the knife conceal in regular clothing?

It’s tough to carry a Ka-Bar with a t-shirt to cover it.

A normal person’s defensive blade will need to be concealed. Sadly, that eliminates bowie knives but still opens up some decent fixed blade options.

Get Training!

Like a firearm, you should get some serious training for defensive knives.

Companies like Shiv Works and Active Response Training will get you the skills you need to employ a knife in a defensive situation.

Best Self Defense Knives Under $300

1. Emerson Mini CQC 15

Emerson rose to prominence by making knives for special operations troops.

Ernest Emerson’s small shop became the favorite knifemaker for the Navy SEALs, and word about his fine knives quickly spread.

I carried an Emerson CQC 7 for years as a Marine and became a huge fan of these knives.

While the CQC 7 is great, the Mini CQC 15 is better.

The Mini CQC 15 is a combination of the CQC 7 and Commander models.

It mixes the penetration capability of the CQC 7’s tanto tip with the deep and slash-friendly belly of the Commander.

It allows the user to slash and stab with equal effectiveness.

Emerson knives also sport the wave feature that allows you to open the blade as you draw it from your pocket.

It takes a little practice, but once you’ve mastered it, the Emerson jumps into action.

Your hand won’t slip off the roughly textured G-10 panels.

In fact, if you have a tight grip on the knife and something yanks it from you, some skin is coming with it.

It’s rough but provides a good grip, even when wearing gloves.

As a bonus, it’s also a great knife for EDC tasks and tough enough for camping and general outdoors use.

As far as folding fighting knives go, the Mini CQC 15 is quite versatile.

2. Ka-Bar TDI Investigator

Ka-Bar’s Master series takes numerous knife users’ expertise and boils it into a few purpose-built designs.

Tactical Defense Institute owner and lead instructor John Brenner designed the TDI to be the ultimate police self-defense knife — with firearm retention being the knife’s primary goal.

John’s 33-year police career drove the design, and the end result was a simple but very effective fighting knife.

The Investigator is the compact model and makes concealed carry easier.

As a civilian concealed carrier, I like simplicity, and the TDI makes things very simple.

The somewhat curve to the handle provides you a simplistic design.

Slashing and stabbing with the Investigator is easy as well.

In a hand-to-hand fight, fancy techniques are unlikely. But, if you can punch, you can use the TDI Investigator.

The short blade is unlikely to reach vital organs in the torso, but the sight of your own blood and a large gaping wound would likely deter further violence.

If an attacker gets in knife range, I’d prefer to attack, take the fight out of them, and then beat feet.

Something simple like the Investigator allows that.

As a fixed blade, deployment isn’t an issue, and the sheath allows for a multitude of carry options.

3. Cold Steel Hide Out

Neck knives are all the rage for those looking to carry a fixed blade in the most convenient way possible.

Hide Out turns out to be a rather appropriate name for this neck knife.

Cold Steel designed the Hide Out to be a deep conceal fixed blade dagger design with a 3-inch blade but weighing a mere 1.9-ounces.

A dagger design allows you to stick and stab easily and slash when necessary.

The tip is painfully sharp and will dig in without remorse when told to.

Fixed blades don’t break, or at least they don’t break as often as folding or automatic knives.

Our edge provides a slight belly for slashing, but this is more of a poker than a slasher: more Freddy and less Jason.

A weatherproof material called Kray-Ex adorns the handle and provides a rubberized-like grip with an aggressive texture.

Kray-Ex ensures the knife stays in your hand and provides some degree of comfort as well.

The sheath is polymer and complete with many lashing points to make a necklace or to attach the knife nearly anywhere.

You might say that guy is a little small to be a dagger.

Well, right now, he’s Luke, and you’re a jailed Princess Leia. So, you take what you can get.

It’s small but easy to use and carry.

It’s also relatively affordable and very well made.

4. Hogue OTF

Switchblades are clearly as dangerous as machine guns; at least the regulations regarding them would make it seem so.

Sadly, lots of state laws prohibit the sale and carry of automatic knives. So, before you run out and buy one, it’s worth investigating your local laws.

In short, research before you buy!

If you can carry an automatic knife, then the Hogue OTF might be the one for you.

OTF knives tend to be pricey.

John Wick’s Microtech costs more than a Glock on average.

The Hogue OTF comes in at less than $250. It’s not a budget blade that will fall apart after a few uses, either.

I’ve used mine for years now and carry it all the time.

As an OTF blade, the Hogue deploys with the press of a button, so one-handed deployment is quite simple.

Hearing that schwick as blade deploys is oh so satisfying.

The blade is a clip point with a might swedge for easy cutting and stabbing. It uses a premium grade 154 CM steel that is incredibly tough and quite durable for defensive tasks.

A big grip fills your hand for an effective hammer grip.

Getting slashy and stabbing with the Hogue OTF proves simple, and it will double as a very effective EDC blade.

One-handed deployment will never be easier than with an automatic knife.

Give one a spin, and it’s tough to go back to a standard folder.

But again, local laws supersede the love of a cool tool. Always research your local laws before buying an auto.

5. Toor Knives Jank Shank

Shank is absolutely the best term to describe the Jank Shank.

Look at the simplicity of the little knife and tell me it doesn’t look like a refined prison shank.

The Jank Shank is a simple, lightweight, and ultra-thin fixed blade knife.

Toor Knives is a small company doing big things, and the Jank Shank is a small thing that does big things.

This minimalist design is made for shiving, slashing, and shankin’ with a needle-like blade.

It’s made from CPM 35 VN, a tough tool steel, falling in the premium category of knife blades.

The 3-inch blade is nothing to fuss at and will penetrate deep enough to change someone’s mind when it comes to attacking you.

While it lacks a belly, it will still slice when needed. Ultimately, it’s all about jabs with the Jank Shank.

The Jank Shank has a rear pinky hole to increase retention and make drawing from the sheath easy.

Toor Knives has a multitude of sheath and carry options.

So, you can go traditional IWB, horizontal, or whatever else you need to conceal your shank.

6. Ka-Bar LDK

Another Ka-Bar in the TDI family in the LDK. Kind of. The LDK was designed by a friend of the website, Greg Ellifritz.

LDK stands for Last Ditch Knife, and this fella is teeny tiny.

It’s small enough to work as a neck knife, be laced into a boot, or even stash in a wallet.

Truly, it qualifies as a last-ditch weapon, offering you minimal blade.

That said, the blade is designed to replicate the design of a scalpel. So, even though it’s small, it’s quite effective at cutting flesh.

Like the TDI-style knives, it works well as a punch dagger and is superbly simple to use.

When held, it allows you to add an additional sting to every punch.

At super close quarters, the little blade will open a bad guy up with rapid slashes and punches.

It’s small but mighty and insanely easy to carry and conceal. It can be carried in nearly any style of dress.

It’s friendly to cargo pants and sundresses.

There is no reason ever to be unarmed when something like the LDK exists.

Plus, it’s super cheap and affordable. At less than $20, it’s the cheapest knife on this list by a large margin.

Sometimes simple and small is enough.

Have you tried the Ka-Bar LDK? If so, rate it below!

7. Benchmade SOCP

Finally, we reach the SOCP.

The SOCP is a compact and ultra-thin dagger that was initially designed for military use.

This knife is far from traditional but is inherently modern and easy to use.

While it’s rather long, it is thin, and the included sheath makes it easy to conceal and carry.

The ring at the end of the handle ensures a sure draw and excellent retention.

Users are inclined to use an ice pick grip that allows downward stabs and slashes.

The idea behind the SOCP is simple.

When someone gets on top of you and starts grappling and fighting with you, the SOCP allows you to slash and stab, creating distance between you and the bad guy.

Let the SOCP take the steam out of a violent attacker and retreat.

With how thin the knife is, you can draw your firearm and engage without ditching the knife — very Solid Snake in its design.

The SOCP blade is rather long and will provide some serious sting to the bad guy when needed.

Admittedly it’s not a very good utility knife for EDC purposes.

It’s a bit much to open a piece of mail or to cut through some cardboard.

For creating distance and escaping a threat, though, it’s perfect. Plus, as a fixed blade, there are no deployment worries.

Benchmade also makes a training blade for safe practice. A knife is like a gun, and training is required to be proficient with it.

Conclusion

While the prospect of using a knife defensively is terrifying, it’s still wise to consider a knife as a viable weapon. Not as an alternative to a firearm, but to compliment it, or as a force multiplier in a gun-free zone.

We’ll say it one last time: before you run off half-cocked and buy an automatic knife or a dagger, research your local laws.

If you think gun laws are confusing, wait until you read about knife laws. In some states, it’s easier to carry a gun than specific types of knives.

Do your due diligence, folks.

Agree with my picks? Have your own? Let us know below! Ready for more knife recommendations? We have the 10 Best Tactical Knives and the 4 Best Survival Knives ready for you to read.

Tips for Blood Trailing Deer…and Finding Them

Let’s imagine it’s deer season and you just shot a deer. Maybe your first. Great news, right? The bad news is you didn’t see or hear it fall. Now you have an agonizing dilemma on your hands and an important decision to make. Do you climb down and take up the deer blood trail right away or give the deer more time to expire? Your decision may impact whether you find the deer or not. So before you start blood trailing deer, especially if it’s your first time doing so, here are some important questions you need to answer.

• How did the deer react? Was it running instead of bounding? Was it stumbling and crashing through the underbrush instead of jumping over it? Those are both usually good signs.
• How did you feel about the shot? Were you shaking from nerves, or were you very calm and relaxed?
• How were the weather conditions? High winds can affect arrows and bullets alike and may steer them off-course.

Difference Between Archery and Firearms

First, there are some key differences with blood trailing deer between bow hunting and using a firearm.

• Looking at the blood color and consistency is easier in many ways when bow hunting. Usually, your arrow is still at the site of impact (assuming it passed through the deer). You can inspect the blood on the arrow to get a better idea of where you shot a deer. Also, bow hunting relies on the broadhead cutting a large surface area so that the deer will bleed out quickly, and so it generally leaves a lot of evidence.
• On the other hand, you can’t exactly find a bullet to inspect it after you shoot, so you will need to look at the blood on the ground or surrounding vegetation instead. Firearms rely on trauma and shock to kill an animal, and sometimes leaves less of a blood trail, especially if the bullet doesn’t pass all the way through. Although if you hit it low (in the case of a heart shot) and it comes out the other side, there should be no shortage of a blood trail.

In my experience, you will typically find a better blood trail when bow hunting than when rifle hunting. Another benefit of bow hunting deer is that you can use lighted nocks to help pinpoint where you hit. Instead of a typical nock on the end of your arrow, lighted nocks turn on when you shoot, leaving a bright light trail for your eyes to follow. Even in the daylight, lighted nocks help you see exactly where you hit a deer, based on where the light blinks out on the deer’s body. It’s even more pronounced in dimmer conditions.

Blood Color, Consistency, and Pattern

Looking at the color and consistency of any blood you find (on the ground, vegetation, or your arrow) can help you make the right decision when blood trailing deer. Depending on which organ your arrow or bullet penetrates, the blood color, consistency, and pattern will be different. Here’s a rough sketch of the various organs for a visual picture.

When it comes to reading the deer sign and figuring out how to blood trail a deer, here are some different scenarios you’re likely to encounter. In addition to your weapon, make sure you carry some basic tracking gear with you, such as a compass, some flagging tape/toilet paper, a knife, a drag rope, and a flashlight (if it will be dark).

Rich, bright red, and sprayed on the vegetation or ground…

You very likely made a heart shot. If you’ve waited the minimum 20 minutes, the deer almost certainly died 19 minutes ago. Proceed following the blood trail slowly.

Bright reddish pink and frothy…

That should be a lung shot. In many cases, heart and lung shots can be combined, and this is obviously a very fatal shot. While the deer is likely already dead, you may have only clipped one lung depending on the angle of the shot. I tend to wait another 15 minutes before taking up the trail when I see bubbles, as you can see in the photo below.

Dark red or maroon colored and watery…

This might indicate a liver shot. A liver shot deer is still going to die, but you need to wait a while longer – plan on another two hours to be safe. Either climb back into your tree stand or sneak back out and return non-essential hunting gear to your vehicle while you wait.

Brown/yellow/green, watery, and putrid-smelling…

This is never a good sign. You likely hit the deer in the intestines or stomach (called a “gut shot” or “paunch shot”). Shooting a deer in the guts will still probably be fatal (deer usually die from septic shock), but if you want any hope of finding that deer, back out quietly and return several hours later. Most wounded deer will bed down within 150-200 yards, and as long as you don’t push them, they should stay (and die) there too.

If there’s no rain in the forecast (which would ruin the blood trail) and the weather is cold enough (so the meat wouldn’t spoil), consider letting it go overnight before you start blood trailing deer. There’s a risk here if you live where the coyote or wolf population is high, and you may find a half-eaten deer in the morning. On the other hand, if you track a deer before it expires, you will likely jump them from their bed and may never see it again. In some cases, it may make more sense to just back out and cross your fingers.

Red and heavy at the site of impact, but slows to drops quickly afterward…

This is likely a muscle shot. You probably hit the neck or the front leg. It tends to bleed heavily at first, but it clots up and produces only thin droplets from there on, which usually dribble down right within the tracks. This is one time you can take a calculated risk. If you continue to pursue this deer quickly, the wound may continue to bleed. Whereas if you let this deer lie in a bed, it may clot up and you won’t be able to follow it any further. It’s risky, but worth the risk with marginally-fatal shots.

Blood Trailing Deer

If you judge the situation correctly, you can have a much easier tracking job ahead of you. But there are never guarantees, so don’t get complacent. Even if you see lots of frothy, bright red blood, you should still take your time tracking the deer, and keep your eyes up to scan ahead. With any luck, you’ll find it just a short ways down the trail. Then you can feel the emotions that come with tracking a deer and walking up to it for the first time.

The last step is getting it back home and preparing some delicious venison meals with the animal you successfully hunted and tracked. And that makes the experience that much more meaningful.

A version of this article was originally published by Ryan Eder on UplandGundog.com in October of 2014.

The best part of the year for the avid bird hunter is when hunting season is just around the corner. If you’re a waterfowl hunter, chances are you have some kind of early season in September for teal or goose. If you’re an upland hunter, you’re just one or two months from chasing roosters in the field. Either way, as bird dog owners we’ve hopefully been training and conditioning our dogs throughout the off-season to keep them in shape and sharp on their skills. I’m not just talking about obvious hunting related skills like finding birds, marking and retrieving. I’m also referring to basic obedience and every day commands that are also extremely important in hunting situations.

Useful Commands for All Hunting Breeds

Depending on the type of hunting you do, and the type of dogs you hunt with, there can be differences in commands and styles. To account for these differences, I’ll do my best to keep this general and applicable to all types and breeds of hunting dogs. With that said, let’s take a look at some of the most important commands you’ll be using in the field with your dog along with a brief explanation of their importance and how to apply them.

Sit Command

More times than not, I’m hunting with a retriever. I tend to be in a duck or goose blind most of the time, so I’m starting off with the “Sit” command. In the blind, one of the hardest things to train a dog to do is sit and be patient. No one likes a dog in the blind that’s constantly moving around, or a dog that’s not steady while birds are being called and hunters are shooting. A dog that sits well in the blind is more enjoyable to hunt with. That dog is also safer since a dog that breaks prematurely can be in the line of shooting. For you upland hunters, sit is still an important command whether you hunt with a pointer or flusher. For a flusher, you may want your dog to sit on a bird flush. For a pointer, even though you don’t want your dog to sit while hunting, having control of your dog in common areas while hunting at clubs or preserves is still pretty important. In my training program, “Sit” is also synonymous with “Stay”. By this I mean once I tell my dog to sit I expect them to remain sitting until released or asked to do something else. This level of control with your dog is critical both in and out of the field.

Whoa, Stop or Stay Command

To you pointer owners, this command is no stranger. Getting your dog steady on point is a large part of hunting with a pointing breed. The concept of “Stop”, “Stay” or “don’t move” can apply to a number of situations in the field. If you’re hunting with multiple dogs, it’s important for them to honor another point or another dog retrieving a bird. While “Whoa” is not typically a command for this, the concept of “Whoa” is similar. It means “stay where you are, do not move”. This is an extension of the “Sit” command with a flusher or waterfowl dog; “stay where you are” being the message to the dog. There are times where I need my dog to stop and stay, such as when I see him heading for a road or barbed wire fence. Sometimes handlers choose to stop and sit their dog on a whistle, either way, the concept of “Whoa”, “Stop” or “Stay” is incredibly important when handling your dog in hunting situations.

Fetch Command

This is simply a matter of opinion, but my preference in a hunting dog is one that retrieves birds that we shoot in the field. Some people incorporate force fetch in their training program, other people teach “Fetch”, “Hold” and retrieving concepts other ways. Either way, and for obvious reasons, “fetch” or “fetch it up” is something many of us say to our dogs in the field. A dog that doesn’t retrieve well in my opinion can make or break a hunt.

Come or Here Command

Being able to call your dog to you in any situation is important. In fact, this is probably the most important command you’ll teach your dog. It’s the basis of retrieving back to the handler and the ability to call a dog back into range if they’re hunting too far out. Most importantly, this command is a matter of control and safety for your dog in the field. “Come” and “Here” tend to be the most popular commands for this, but many handlers will use a whistle recall as well. This may seem to be a redundant message, but the first time that you have a dog unable to come when called you’ll realize just how important it is.

Kennel Command

Every year I witness someone who wishes they would have tried to teach the kennel command better with their dog. In the home, it is nice to say “Kennel” and have your dog load into their crate without having to lure, push or pull the dog to get them into their crate. The same luxury exists in the field when you want to load the dog into the truck, crate, dog box or trailer after training or hunting. It can be very frustrating to have issues getting your dog loaded into their kennel after a day in the field. If you’re at a gun club or hunt test, or even just a field with hunting friends, it can be embarrassing having a dog that won’t follow this basic command. Make sure to work with your dog on this, and make sure they understand to load quickly, safely and on demand.

Practice at Home for Success in the Field

The basic commands covered in this article are just that. They’re the basics and the minimum standard you should accept from your hunting dog. Most of you probably have them covered and use them every day with your dog. Still, I do recommend practicing them and making sure the dog is sharp so that when hunting season rolls around you don’t encounter any unnecessary issues. Good luck to everyone this fall and happy training!

About Ryan Eder

Ryan is the President of the Upland Gundog Association and a longtime trainer of hunting Retrievers. You can learn more about Ryan and his training methods at the UGA website, www.uplandgundog.com.

Put glide baits to use when you find that next big fall blitz of bass and blues.

There’s nothing quite like standing on shore with hundreds or thousands of fish blasting bait out of the water mere feet in front of me. The energy, chaos and visual aspects of an inshore “blitz” are intoxicating. Conversely, often the most frustrating days fishing are when I have a seemingly endless glut of fish in front of me but I cannot catch a single one! Sometimes I could almost reach down and grab them, but cast after cast, they snub my offering and leave me ready to throw my rod into the surf. A similar scenario, albeit somewhat less frustrating, is when I see large fish slashing and attacking bait, yet all I’m catching is small schoolies.

This seems to happen more than one would think. If you have a few years fishing the salt under your belt, you may have experienced it. However, I always believe there’s a way around it; after all, the fish are there and feeding with reckless abandon, so the hard part is taken care of. Yet, despite the fish not taking their offering, some anglers insist on just casting the same plug or two over and over into the melee, hoping something will change. What they are thinking I can only guess, but I believe they assume that because the fish are feeding aggressively that it’s just a matter of time before they catch something.

This is not a good tactic. Waiting for the fish to cooperate is inviting the skunk—you need to go on the offensive and figure out what they want. Even if I’m catching a fish every handful of casts in a blitz, I’m not content. If the fish are going bananas at my feet, I should be hooking up every cast. One way I have recently begun to increase my catch numbers in these classic fall blitzes is to fish glide baits heavily. Sometimes called stick baits, these plugs are the perfect blitz busting plugs.

Glide baits originated in freshwater fishing—specifically musky fishing—and they quickly became popular with fishermen at the Cape Cod Canal. While they have proven to be extremely successful for anglers up and down the coast, they remain somewhat underutilized by the masses. So much so, I believe I’m letting you in on a personal secret that allows me to out-fish poppers, tins and swimmers by as much as 20 to 1.

Why Glide Baits?

First, glide baits are versatile. Many assume they are only good for areas with current. This is inaccurate. I use them everywhere: on sand beaches, in boulder fields, in big surf, and calm backwaters. The glide baits I use can be fished many different ways: fast and loose, or slow and low, and everything in-between. This is a huge advantage over the ubiquitous poppers used by most anglers during day time blitzes—glide baits can be implemented essentially anywhere, at any time. During a daytime blitz, I start by fishing glide baits with a moderate retrieve and a rapid tip action similar to how I work a pencil, but with smaller jerks of the rod. This puts the glide bait just below the surface, or waking on the surface, making a lot of commotion. Worked with slower tip action, the plug will begin to shoot rhythmically back and forth subsurface, like an underwater spook plug. The action will vary with the specific plug you’re using, but this hyper-erratic motion seems to really draw the fish when surface plugs and swimmers are coming up short.

I also rely heavily on working both small and large glide baits slowly with sharp, random, jerks and twitches. This seems especially effective if stripers and blues are on bunker, or larger baits, where the predators sit below the forage fish waiting for the injured individuals to fall out of the school. Casting a glide bait out, letting it sink for a moment (or longer!) and then working it slowly with erratic twitches, seems to be irresistible to cow bass, and I have landed more than a few big fish using this technique. Just hold on when you twitch it, because that’s nearly always when the hit comes, and it is often violent!

Next, glide baits are deep, big-profile plugs. Even if you’re using the small 1-ounce Sebile Stick Shadd, it is relatively deep for its length. This is in contrast to many other plugs like the SP minnow or a pencil popper, which are slender profiles. This can be a huge advantage if the fish are on deep-bodied baits such as peanut bunker, adult bunker, snapper blues, mullet, etc. However, even if they aren’t, the deeper profile can attract the attention necessary to garner a strike when the surf is a proverbial soup of bait and predators. For example, I was on a spearing blitz last year where the fish were especially picky. Poppers and bucktails were useless, and while I could get them to hit an SP Minnow, the cast-to-hook-up ratio was only about 10:1. Frustrated, I put on a small glide bait and began hooking-up every cast. In this situation, I believe the glide bait was cutting through the noise and making itself seen.

Further, the fat, large profile of a glide bait seems to attract bigger fish. This past September I was fishing a blitz where bass were attacking silver-dollar sized peanut bunker. The bass would roll into the surf riding the white water of a wave, and I only had a short moment to cast to them before they sped back out to deeper water. I started with a small spook plug, and I was immediately into schoolies on every cast. After catching a couple dozen, I began to get bored, and decided to try a glide bait. My first cast was rewarded with a fish pushing 15 pounds, and I landed several more to low-teens. This repeated for three days in a row—schoolies on spooks and poppers, bigger fish on glide baits. I would have had no idea if I hadn’t decided to try the glide bait. It always pays to experiment.

Another key to the blitz-busting capacity of the glide bait is they cast phenomenally. They are no tin, but they cast about as far as a comparable popper. And the larger sizes cast as well as the smaller sizes if used with properly-sized gear. This makes them especially effective if you find yourself on an adult bunker blitz, but the fish are on an outer bar, or if you’re casting into a strong on-shore wind. While a metal lip might be a perfect plug when the fish are on big bunker, good luck casting one into a 30mph on-shore wind. And if the fish won’t take a popper, glide baits offer a similar profile as a metal lip and easily cast twice or three times the distance. Add in the versatility in which you can fish them, and you’ll be hard-pressed to find a plug that is better suited for these “bait on the bar” situations.

Finally, glide baits offer another advantage in blitz situations: they can be fished with single trebles or two inline hooks. Whichever you use, it makes no difference in the action or fishablility of the plug, and may even slightly increase the casting distance. When I’m fortunate enough to be in a blitz situation, I want to be able to get the fish off the plug as quickly and safely as possible so I can get back in on the action fast. Fishing with a single hook makes releases much easier on the angler and fish. Wasting time unhooking rear trebles from smaller fish is especially frustrating, and has led to more than a few injuries to my hands and the fish.

Glide Bait Options

I mainly rely on readily-available plastic glide baits. In my plug bag you’ll find the following: the suspending 1-ounce Sebile Stick Shadd, the 1-1/2-ounce Savage Gear Freestyler, the 3-1/4-ounce Freestyler (a personal favorite), and the 3- and 4-ounce slow-sink Sebile Stick Shadds. Sebile offers a staggering array of sizes and weights, and I have used others than those listed, but find the above to be my favorites. It is easy to pack several of these plugs as even the largest slides between the tubes in most surf bags.

A few notes about these plugs. The small Sebile is not through-wired so one must be cautious with drag pressure. I’ve yet to break one, but I’ve bent the hanger substantially even on smaller fish. However, it is the perfect peanut imitator, and worth its small space in your bag. The Savage Gear Freestyler plugs are overall my favorite. They are inexpensive, come with two sets of strong forged hooks and have a thick profile that produces excellent action. For me, they are the more versatile of the two brands. Savage is coming out with a new line of Mackerel glide baits this fall that look phenomenal, but I have yet to test them. The larger Sebiles in slow-sink still sink faster than the Savages, but they cast better, and the increased sink rate makes them useful in a strong surf or current sweep. The fast-sink models are less useful where I fish, but have their time and place in Nor’Easter storm situations.

In addition to the glide baits produced by Sebile and Savage Gear as noted above, several other manufacturers produce similar plugs in plastic form. The Yo-Zuri Diving Slider was produced with pelagics in mind so it has the strength to stand up to most inshore gamefish and produces a great sub-surface side-to-side swim. Rapala produces several glide baits in the X-Rap Saltwater SubWalk, X-Rap Twitchin’ Minnow and X-Rap Long Cast Shallow, Williamson makes the SubSurface Pro, Strategic Angler produces some great crossover glides that work both inshore and off, and Tsunami will be introducing the Surface Striker this winter. On the wooden side, glide baits have become the “in” lure for garage builders to produce the last few years. Several options include glides produced by Fatty Lures, Loki Lures, Surf Asylum, RM Smith and others.

The list goes on and on for plastic and wooden glide baits, so don’t be afraid to try different manufacturers to see what works best for you; just make sure you have a few of these versatile plugs in your bag for the last of the late fall blitzes!

Although oftentimes overshadowed by their larger-mouthed relatives, the smallmouth bass is easily one of the most popular freshwater game fish in North America. Their expansive range, accessibility, and willingness to take a variety of baits, lures, and flies make them a great target for sportsmen of all levels.

And while they don’t grow as big as largemouths, pound-for-pound, smallmouth bass are every bit as strong and aggressive.

Couple these facts with their beautifully mottled complexion, and it’s no wonder why anglers have pursued smallmouth bass for centuries.

So without further ado, here’s 10 of the biggest smallmouth bass ever recorded:

All-Tackle: David Hayes – 11 pounds, 15 ounces

Dale Hollow Reservoir, Tennessee

David Hayes’ celebrated 5.41 kg (11 pounds, 15 ounces) All-Tackle world record smallmouth bass has seen its share of controversy over the years.

Hayes caught his record fish on July 9, 1955 while trolling a lure in Dale Hollow Reservoir, Tennessee, without a doubt the most famed body of water for producing massive smallmouth bass.

In fact, the three heaviest smallmouth ever recorded have come from Dale Hallow!

Hayes’ catch held the All-Tackle title for 41 years, despite swirling rumors throughout the angling community denouncing his catch. These rumors, coupled with an affidavit stating that the dock owner added lead weight to the catch (unbeknownst to Hayes), resulted in the temporary ousting of Hayes’ record.

During this time, John Gorman’s held the All-Tackle title with his 10 pound, 14 ounce smallmouth he caught on April 24, 1969 while fishing the same location (Dale Hollow Reservoir, Tennessee).

However, nine years later, it was proven through multiple polygraph tests that the sworn affidavit that denounced the legitimacy of Hayes’ smallmouth, had been falsified.

Thus, returning the All-Tackle title to Hayes and retiring Gorman’s trophy, which still holds the title of the second heaviest smallmouth ever submitted to the IGFA, even though it is not a current record. Despite the controversy surrounding Hayes’ smallmouth, it has withstood the test of time – and quite a few polygraphs, too.

8-Pound Line: Paul E. Beal – 10 pounds, 8 ounces

Dale Hollow Reservoir, Tennessee

More than 30 years after Hayes’ historical catch, Dale Hollow produced once again on April 14, 1986 in the form of a 10 pound, 8 ounce smallmouth caught by local angler Paul E. Beal. The story goes that Beal was sharing a houseboat with some friends and family, and on that fateful morning he was left behind to do the dishes while his buddies snuck off to go fishing.

Angry that he was left cleaning up after everyone, Beal decided to “cool-down” by going fishing with his dad. Not long after the plastic grub he was casting hit the water, Beal came tight on the trophy smallmouth.

After a 15 minute fight on an 8-pound test and no leader, Beal boated the fish which bottomed-out his 10-pound scale. Knowing he had something special, Beal immediately headed for the docks for an official weighing.

The catch was documented well and soon after made headlines as the third heaviest smallmouth ever, and the new men’s 8-pound line class world record. But that doesn’t mean the catch wasn’t controversial. Dale Hollow is bisected by the Tennessee/Kentucky border.

According to Beal, the fish was caught in Tennessee, but weighed in Kentucky. This has created a feud between the two states, who both want to claim ownership for this monumental catch, and understandably so.

12-Pound Line: Terry Dodson – 9 pounds, 6 ounces

Lake Jocassee, South Carolina

In 2001, angler Terry Dodson made angling headlines for the world record smallmouth he pulled from Lake Jocassee, which is located in far northwest section of South Carolina and very close to the North Carolina border. On the morning of May 3, 2001, Dodson was fishing with a friend on his boat, when the diving plug he was casting suddenly got crushed.

After a relatively quick 5 minute fight, Dodson’s friend was able to net the fish. The fish was officially weighed-in at 9 pounds, 6 ounces and has held the men’s 12-pound line class record ever since.

6-Pound Line: Dr. E. Scott Yarbo – 8 pounds, 9 ounces

Counce, Tennessee

Dr. E. Scott Yarbro braved the snow flurries and strong winds on the morning of March 11, 1998, and ventured out to Pickwick Lake, located in Counce, Tennessee. Later that morning, while casting a 4-inch Harville Shad on a 3/8-ounce jig head, Yarbro hooked into a fish that put his 6-pound tackle to the test.

Nearly 10 minutes after coming tight, Yarbro had the “biggest smallmouth he’d ever seen” on his boat. Realizing they had something special, Yarbro and his friend immediately called it a day and headed straight to a local store for an official weigh-in, where it tipped the scales at an impressive 8 pounds, 9 ounces.

Soon after, Yarbro’s fish was granted the men’s 6-pound line class record, which it still holds today.

16-Pound Line: Terrell D. Nail – 8 Pounds, 6 ounces

Pickwick Lake, Alabama

The men’s 16-pound line class record has belonged to Terrell D. Nail since he pulled an 8 pound, 6 ounce smallmouth from Alabama’s Pickwick Lake on January 4, 1988. But unlike the other anglers in this list, Nail was fishing with a live shad – rather than a jig – when he hooked his world record. The fish put up a tough fight for 8-10 minutes before it could be subdued and landed.

An interesting fact about Nail’s record fish is that it was originally submitted for a 12-pound line class record because that was what he was using at the time. Had the line tested accurately, his catch would have never been listed as world record because the 12-pound line class record was a couple ounces heavier at the time.

However, because the 12-pound Berkley Trilene XT line he was using tested out at 16.8 pounds, his catch was placed in the 16-pound category and became the new world record.

Ultra-Light Tackle: Herbert Ratner – 7 pounds, 0 ounces

Pickwick Lake, Tennessee

When it comes to catching trophy smallmouth on ultra-light tackle, that title belongs to multiple record holder Herbert Ratner.

On the morning of June 2, 1997 while fishing a live minnow on the Tennessee side of Pickwick Lake, Ratner skillfully played a 7-pound smallmouth on straight 2-pound tackle (no leader) for nearly 20 minutes, before he could subdue the fish.

As if that wasn’t impressive enough, Ratner was also able to properly document the fish on the shoreline and then release it alive. And not only does Ratner own this impressive record, he also holds the 2-pound fly tippet record for smallmouth bass with a 5 pound, 8 ounce fish he caught in 2000.

20-Pound Fly Tippet: John Herrick – 6 pounds, 12 ounces

Basswood Lake, Minnesota

While John Herrick’s 6 pound, 12 ounce smallmouth bass is certainly not the largest specimen ever caught by an angler, it is the largest smallmouth bass record ever caught on fly tackle that has been submitted to the IGFA.

Herrick was fishing Minnesota’s Basswood Lake on August 30, 1997 when he caught his record smallmouth.

The fish ate a white rabbit strip fly and tested Herrick’s tackle and whits for nearly 20 minutes before he could finally boat the fish.The catch soon became the men’s 20-pound tippet class record after it was officially weighed and submitted to the IGFA.

16-Pound Fly Tippet: Pamela Kinsey McClelland – 6 pounds, 4 ounces

Pine Lake, Michigan

Before the IGFA decided to split the freshwater line class and fly tippet world records into men’s and women’s categories (to make the program consistent with the saltwater counterpart), angler Pamela Kinsey McClelland was the only woman to hold a smallmouth bass record.

McClelland caught a 6 pound, 4 ounce smallmouth on August 12, 1995 while fly fishing on Pine Lake, Michigan with her friend, her husband, and her dog.

McClelland, who was visiting Michigan from her home in Washington D.C., needed 10 minutes to land the trophy smallmouth after it ate the red and white streamer fly she was casting. The catch has held the distinction of the heaviest smallmouth caught on 16-pound fly tippet for nearly 20 years.

Male-Smallfry: Michael Fillette – 5 pounds, 12 ounces

Lake Erie, New York

One of the reasons why smallmouth bass are such a popular game fish is because anyone can catch them. Unlike a musky or a marlin that can overpower young or inexperienced anglers, smallmouth are sized appropriately to accommodate all anglers, while still requiring finesse and skill.

Angler Michael Fillette was only eight years old when he caught a fish that most smallmouth junkies would die for – a 5 pound, 12 ounce fish that he pulled from Lake Erie in New York on May 18, 2009.

The young Fillette needed only 8 minutes to subdue the fish after it inhaled the live shiner he was fishing. Not only does Fillette hold the Male-Smallfry record, he is also the youngest angler to hold a record on smallmouth bass.

8-Pound Fly Tippet: Ichiro Nagai – 5 pounds, 9 ounces

Lake Inawashiro, Japan

Although smallmouth bass gained their popularity in North America, their reach is not limited to the US and Canada alone. After being introduced in locations around the world, several international locations are producing world-class sized smallmouth.

On June 8, 2013, Japanese angler Ichiro Nagai, M.D. became the first angler to catch a world record smallmouth bass outside of North America.

Nagai caught his 5 pound, 9 ounce smally while fly fishing Japan’s Lake Inawashiro. Nagai needed only a few minutes to subdue the catch, which soon after became the heaviest smallmouth ever caught on 8-pound fly tippet.

One of the most appealing new Tikkas, a T3 Lite, weights in at just 6 ¼ pounds — as lightweight as seems useful to me. Less heft and the rifle bounces like a clothesline in the wind. When you’re puffing after a climb or must curb the effects of pulse to shoot far, rifle mass is your friend. It helps mitigate recoil, too. A sling and scope quickly bring six-pound rifles to seven. A full magazine adds ounces. Occasionally I’ve wished for more. But after long hours on the trail, I’ll take 7.5.

Then T3 has a two-lug bolt with a 70-degree lift and disassembles quickly by hand into four major components. Its recessed face has a plunger ejector and a Sako extractor.

The T3’s receiver is slim but stiff due to a small ejection port. Rails machined into the receiver’s roof accept 17mm clamp rings, but the rifle is also drilled and tapped. The recoil lug is a steel insert in the stock that engages a slot in the action.

While early Tikka bolt rifles came in two action lengths, the T3 is built on one, with two bolt stops for different cartridge lengths. Single-stack three-shot magazines are of lightweight polymer. They can be loaded only when out of the rifle. You can buy deep boxes that hold more cartridges. A flush magazine latch is out of the way in front of the well.

The stock (walnut or synthetic) has a long grip and a comfortable pitch. It comes with spacers to lengthen the butt. Shadow ridges on the fore-end, with raised rubber-like panels there and on the grip, help you grasp the rifle with wet or cold hands. Deep fluting at the comb nose welcomes the heel of your hand. The stock doesn’t contact the hammer-forged barrel. A steel stock insert engaging a slot in the receiver serves as recoil lug.

Trigger pull on Tikka’s T3 adjusts from two to four pounds. The test rifle’s came in at 3.5. The trigger guard is the only alloy component on a T3 action; all others are of steel, save the polymer magazine and bolt shroud. A red cocking indicator protrudes from the striker race. A two-position safety locks bolt and trigger. The bolt shank is the right length for me, just long enough for easy cycling from the shoulder. The hollow, pear-shaped knob is gracefully curved and easy to grasp.

I’ve several Tikka’s, and all but a .270 WSM printed groups inside a minute of angle. The T3 Lite I tested for this article shot 140-grain Winchester AccuBonds into a 0.4-inch group, and with four of five additional loads I got 0.7-inch groups — and all loads shot well inside the 11/2-inch standard I impose on bolt-action hunting rifles. Indeed, the average best-group measure for this T3 was just half that.

Overall, the T3 Lite is technically excellent, it has a gunny feel that can’t be described but as certainly cannot be faked. The bolt glides. The trigger breaks consistently, although at 3.5 pounds it tested my control. Cartridges cycle without bumps. Shut your eyes, cheek a T3 Lite, and when you look through the scope, I suspect you’ll find the crosswire on target. Still, the Lite puts spring in your step after long days afield.

No, it’s not perfect. The safety is hard to feel with a mittened thumb. And I’d like an adjustment for sear engagement. But those changes would add expense to an affordable rifle that’s already accurate, nimble in the hand and easy to shoot well from hunting positions.

Want a lively, lightweight rifle with killer looks and Crisco-smooth cycling? One with dime-tight accuracy and a trigger that brings out the best in you? It’s here, from Finland.

Fast Specs

Type: bolt action centerfire; 2 locking lugs, Sako-style extractor, plunger ejector.Caliber: 7mm Rem. Mag. (tested), .300 Win. Mag., .338 Win. Mag.Feed System: 3-round single-column detachable polymer box magazineBarrel: 24 in. sporter-weight, hammer-forged; 1:9½ twist.Weight: 6 lbs. 6 oz.Stock: black fiberglass-reinforced polymer with rubber buttpad.Metal: brushed stainless (tested), blue chrome-molyFire control: adjustable steel trigger (3.5 pounds as tested); two-position safety locks boltSights: none; receiver grooved and drilledPrice: $659Distributor: Beretta USA

Accuracy Results

Smallest group: 140 gr. Winchester AccuBond — 0.4 in.Largest group: (tie) 140 gr. Remington CoreLokt Ultra, 165 gr. Federal Sierra GameKing — 1.1 in.Due to challenging range conditions, author submitted only the best of three-shot groups at 100 yards.

Caption 1: The Tikka T3 Lite is a svelte, accurate rifle perfect for those who cover a lot of ground when they hunt.

Caption 2: The Tikka T3 feeds from a single-column polymer magazine and operated without a hitch.

Caption 3: The two-lug bolt offers a 70-degree lift and features a Sako-style extractor.

Caption 4: Like most Tikkas, the T3 Lite demonstrated excellent accuracy.

When the jungle, forest, campsite, or even your yard bites at you…you need to bite back!

With a proper machete, you can do more than bite.

Machetes are a tool I’ve loved since childhood. As a kid, my dad owned a landscaping business, and for us, summers were spent laying sod.

These cutting tools are vital for getting a yard of laid sod to look just right.

As a kid, I loved wielding the machete.

It felt like some kind of sword! Chopping corners of sod was slaying a dragon. I was Aragorn and the sod was Uruk Hai.

Machetes followed me into the Marine Corps, where they were a common sight among infantrymen.

Over the years, I’ve swung many a machete, blistered hands, killed trees, and learned a thing or two.

In my yard, I’m constantly fighting back a brutal dictatorship coming from the dense Florida jungle that surrounds me.

All that said, let’s talk more about machetes. I’ve gathered some of the best models currently on the market so you can grab your very own.

I’ll even talk about how to go about picking the perfect one for you.

So, let’s get to it!

How To Pick a Machete

I won’t rattle on and on about the intricacies of choosing the absolute perfect machete. But I do have some tips to ensure you get your money’s worth.

Blade: Blade length will vary depending on your task. Long machetes provide a longer reach and more weight behind your swing. They tend to be best for thick brush but are heavier and take up more room.

Compact machetes are way easier to carry while hiking, patrolling, or doing primitive camping. They still provide a slasher versus a regular blade but expect to do more work.

I like machetes with round tips that do better when smashing through thick vegetation — Pangas, bolos, and Latin-style blades.

Steel: Carbon steel blades provide a balance of cost-effectiveness and functional material. They get nice and sharp and hold an edge for quite some time.

Carbon steel can be vulnerable to rust, so keep the blade oiled or make sure it has a corrosion-resistant finish.

Handle: I like a good soft handle that provides a good grip. Most machete handles are functional but rarely super comfortable.

You’ll get blisters fast but handles like the Gerber Gator’s help a fair bit. Ultimately, you want a rounded handle that absorbs some shock.

7 Best Machetes

1. Gerber Gator Jr.

If you deployed to Helmand Province, Afghanistan, in the 2009 to 2011 push, you likely carried or knew someone who carried the Gerber Gator Jr.

This machete became a quick favorite for Marines deploying.

Why? Well, it was at the PX and super affordable. Not to mention, this deployment was more primitive than previous ones to the urban areas of Iraq.

The Gerber Gator Jr. was also one helluva awesome machete.

I didn’t bring one, but several of my squadmates did. I now own one after using it overseas.

The Gerber Gator Jr. is the smaller variant of Gator and packs a hefty blade covered with a reverse sawback that doubles its utility.

I use my Gerber Gator Jr. around the house almost every other weekend.

It’s a short and handy tool that cuts through brush both thick and thin. The sawback allows you to chop hefty branches and wood.

I’ve taken down several small trees without much difficulty.

The handle is a soft material called Gator Grip Overmold.

It’s extremely comfortable and helps you resist hot spots, blisters, and sore hands after a day of chopping.

The compact size also makes it relatively easy to carry and pack in and out of the great outdoors.

2. Outdoor Edge Brush Demon

The Brush Demon is an appropriate name for this machete.

Oddly enough, it satisfies my sword fantasy with its similarities to the Greek Kopis sword.

The Kopis was the sword of the citizen soldier and was a very simple chopping and stabbing tool. Average Greek citizens could wield it necessary.

Experienced Kopis designer Jerry Hossom created the Brush Demon, and it’s good.

The blade feels heavy and features a slight inward curve. So, this thing is an eater of weeds, palmettos, and saplings – chewing through without remorse.

At 13.5-inch, the lightweight blade is efficient and reduces the effort you need to finish the job.

The Brush Demon grants you a good deal of control, making the machete a very precise tool.

It can strip limbs of leaves and scratch away bark to form a stake or spear. On the flip side, you can carve a path through a jungle easily with the tool.

The handle is a Zytel material that’s ‘skin’ molded.

It’s soft and makes for an easy and comfortable grip. No gloves are required, even for the softest of hands.

It also ensures you can control your whacks with a single hand without worrying about a loose grip.

3. ESEE Knives EXPAT Libertariat Machete

If you want a super compact and simple machete, I got you, fam.

The Libertariat just wants to end brush and weeds. It’s also the most compact machete on this list — a hair bigger than a KA-BAR.

Its blade and handle shape make it more of a chopper than a knife.

Made in El Salvador, those fine folks know a thing or two about chopping through jungles.

The Condor blade style makes it easy to use, even though the blade is a mere 9-inches long.

The wood handles and high carbon blade aren’t fancy, but both are proven well for long-term use.

I use the Libertariat almost weekly for chopping the little branches, saplings, and annoying fast-growing weeds from the edge of the property.

It’s so small and light that it rides shotgun on the lawnmower with me.

For the more adventurous type, it offers a blade that takes up minimal space and offers lots of chopping potential.

A short blade means you’ll expend more effort to chop through the jungle, but you’ll expend less carrying it everywhere.

It’s perfect for adventures that you don’t plan to need a machete, but just might.

Have you tried The Libertariat? Give it a rating below!

4. Cold Steel Latin D Guard Machete

Latin America might as well be considered the heartland for machetes.

The simple designs coming from South America have long been awesome designs made to last. And they’re often affordable.

Cold Steel adapted the Latin design and the famed D guard handguard.

The D guard is a fully enclosed handguard that works well with the Latin’s 24-inch blade. (There’s also an 18-inch variant available.)

Users can swing the machete broadly to create a path without worrying about losing their grip. The machete won’t fly into the woods if your hand tires or grip slips.

Not only is this great for tool retainment, but also safety’s sake. A wild machete is never a good thing.

This is a true jungle machete that would serve Rambo well in the jungles of Vietnam. The traditional machete-style blade allows it to whack through both thick and thin materials.

A carbon steel blade means it will take abuse and resist chipping and breaking after years of heavy use.

The propylene handle is quite comfortable, helping your hands stay soft and free from blisters.

Old, calloused hands will still appreciate the handle design because blisters suck for everyone.

5. Ontario Knife Company Military Machete

Do you just want to keep things simple? I hear you.

The Ontario Knife Military Machete is incredibly simple, providing you the same machete issued to military troops.

I saw this exact machete in the armory, and eventually, it was issued to our team 2-point man.

These things took all the abuse a 19-year-old PFC can toss at them…and shrugged it off.

The design isn’t fancy, but it doesn’t need to be to work. The big 18-inch blade design rips through brush and most thin wood.

It’s a true whacker that leads with a big belly and thick blade.

Between this model and the Gerber Gator Jr., we chopped down several small trees outside of our patrol base to open fields of fire and gather firewood to keep warm as Afghan winter set in.

When used properly, there isn’t much that stands up to the Ontario Military Machete.

The biggest downside is the hard plastic handles. They don’t offer a great grip and can cause quick hot spots and blisters. Wield with gloves for best results.

It’s a classic design that doesn’t pack any fancy features in, but the price tag reflects the simplicity.

6. Fiskars Machete Axe

What’s better than just a machete? How about a machete ax!

The Fiskars Machete Axe looks like a State of Decay 2 melee weapon but is actually a functional but unique machete variant.

It’s part panga and part ax, and all kick ass.

The Fiskars uses a traditional machete blade for about three-quarters of its length; at the tip, it grows into an ax.

That hefty end gives you so serious swinging power. It will make short work of brush and slightly longer work of saplings and small trees.

Got a thick limb in your way? Well, you won’t after a few swings of the machete ax.

Need to kill some roots? You won’t have a problem making sure they’re dead with the Fiskars.

The rear blade of the ax portion has a saw tooth back for a little sawing in tight quarters. It can’t split wood as well as a regular ax, but it’s much easier to wield when broad slashes are required.

Be warned, it’s a little off-balanced, and it will carry your swing through.

Always make sure you have a clean cutting area because it might be tough to stop the Fiskars mid-swing.

7. Gerber Double Down

My wildcard selection is the Gerber Double Down, and boy, is it a wildcard.

Have you ever seen a machete that’s also a butterfly knife? Well, you have now.

This compact machete allows you to easily trim the size of the machete in half by folding the blade into the handle.

It’s small but made for machete-like tasks. Gerber’s Double Down chops, debarks wood, and will make hanging a tree stand, clearing a path, and trimming away the weeds quite simple.

At the same time, it can fold in half and fit into your back pocket.

Gerber over-engineered the hell out of this thing. They made sure it wouldn’t be fragile for the chopping and cutting.

This massive butterfly knife features a stability guard and overstrike guard.

A four-lock system engages in three different positions to provide the highest amount of safety possible.

It’s not perfect. Not a fan of stainless steel for machete blades, but it is a high carbon stainless steel. So, it’s not that bad.

Second, the $100+ price tag makes it a tough pill to swallow. However, it’s damn sure a cool choice.

Conclusion

Whether you’re heading into the jungle or taming your backyard, machetes are useful tools to have around.

I’ve tried to narrow the selection down to models I know are worth your attention and time. Hopefully, you’ll find something that works for you!

What do you think about the machetes above? Let us know in the comments below. For more cutting content, check out our Knives Category.

Coming from the eastern whitetail woods and objectively entered my first broken country western elk hunt I looked at glassing as a simplistic way to locate animals. Find a vantage point, setup, and scan the mountain sides. I focused having the best gear I could afford when it came to glassing but overlooked the actual art. I very quickly learned that there’s more to being successful behind glass than just spending time looking through a spotter or binoculars. While I continue to hone my western skill set I’ve come a long ways over the last 4 years.

Being a successful western hunter, at some point will entail working glass as long as the habitat allows for the opportunity. Glassing is an planned and learned skill. In this article I’ll cover all the mistakes I’ve made and lessons I’ve learned glassing out west.

Have a Plan

As I mentioned in the opening paragraph, spending hours behind glass does not guarantee anything but time spent. With most western hunts being plan around a 5-7 day hunt, eastern guys heading west need to be efficient with time. It’s difficult to find animals in new vast territory and locating animals to hunt is often where hunters will spending the most of their time. However, it’s also where the least amount of planning is spent for most new hunter.

When it comes to glassing, there’s more to planning than just marking vantage points on onX. You need to identify glassing points based on where elk will be, sun position, access, and vantage points. Morning, afternoon, and evening glass spots will likely all be different. Once you have boots on the ground be sure you use your tracking tool on onX to find your way out in the dark….Yes, I’ve made that mistake and found myself “cliffed” out resulting in a longer hike out and little sleep.

Morning Glassing Spots – Focus on areas that elk will be moving back from feeding areas. From my experiences of hunting elk with a bow in September, it takes time for elk to transition from major destination food sources back to bed. Sometimes hours! Find destination food sources and transition routes back to bed that have broken ground. Mark these areas on onX with a specific color. Next find vantage points that are in a workable distance with the glass you have. Lastly, you need to think about where the sun will be. I’ve made the mistake of doing the first two steps to only be blinded by staring into the sun. Keep the sun to your back.

Afternoon Glassing Spots – Focus on bedding areas. At times this can be difficult as from my experience, elk enjoy dark timber as the September sun is high in sky. Also, keep in mind, as hunting pressure increases elk will shift accordingly. In my opinion, while elk are not as cagey as a whitetail they will shift when pressured. Attempt to identify bedding areas with broken timber or pockets of timber and focus your efforts on the edges. Considering you’re probably not an elk expert if you’re reading this, picking a bedding area off a map is highly unlikely. I’ve found good success locating bugling elk in the mornings and simply following them back to bed while maintaining some distance. Location bugles are your best friend here. Keep in mind, the distance between food and bed will vary. I’ve witnessed elk moving less than .5 mile up into a drainage off an alfa field and I’ve also seen where elk move 5 miles back to a bedding area. Anyway you can locate a bedding area, mark it on your map and plan to spend the afternoons, which are typically slow, glassing to gain intel for an evening hunt or even a hunt the follow morning. Again, find your vantage point and maintain a safe distance based on the wind.

Evening Glassing Spots – Much like morning spots you’ll be focusing on the bed to food pattern. If you’ve been glassing bedding areas during the afternoon, it may make sense to stay put if your vantage point still works. If you’re taking a blind stab and it’s your first setup glassing, focus on transition areas and pick a vantage point that offers the most coverable ground while keeping the setting sun at your back. Points, saddles, and openings not far from bedding have all worked for me in the past. Use your tracker on the way in to have a clear cut access plan for the way out under the stars.

Before you go into the hunt, it does pay to have vantage points marked on your map with areas of focus for each part of the day. It will likely change once you lay your eyes on the first herd of animals but that’s the game. Without a plan you’ll start to feel the pressure of filling your tag and end up doing more work than needed during your time in the field. Creating a glassing plan is a necessity for western rookies, I’ve went into hunts with plans and without plans. Each hunt is different but it seems the more prep and work committed to the hunt the better and more enjoyable the trips turn out.

Sun Direction

I’ve discreetly mention sun direction in with your glassing plan but it very well deserves it’s own place in this article. It’s not rocket science but it does need to be top of mind. I’ve learned this lesson the hard way, spending entire afternoons climbing to a marked vantage point only to find it totally useless because I was blinded by the sun. The real issue here is simply wasted time. When you’re in vast territory spending countless calories and time climbing you can’t just jump over one ridge and make it work….at least not in my experience. You don’t always need the sun to your back but you DEFINITELY do not want it directly at your face. If you take one thing from this article, this is it!

Comfort and Steady Base

The entire point of glassing is to breakdown an area by spending TIME observing from a distance. Glassing is a skill and it’s not something you learn without doing. The majority of the time when you do spot an animal you will only be catching glimpses of movement if you lucky. More often than not, you’re trying to locate something out of place, an antler, leg, etc. To pull that off you need to go slow and create a systematic approach to cover an area. I personally like to break areas down into a grid and cover it horizontally first before moving back down or up. For example, I’ll start at A1 move to F1 and then return back to A1 before moving vertically and repeat the process over and over and over.

The point here is that to be successful you’ll need to go slow, which takes time. So you need to get comfortably. When you first get setup, take the time to dig out a spot to sit and get a decent backrest, even if you have to carry a few rocks or logs to create it. In effort to save weight in my pack, I usually do not carry a glassing pad because I typically have layers of clothing with me. I’ll use those layers to sit on.

Having a solid tripod is one of the things I personally overlooked on my first couple elk hunts. You cannot be effective behind glass without a solid base. It’s really that simple. Beyond having quality gear, you need to learn how to get it setup solid. Once you begin to glass you WILL inevitably bump your tripod leaving you wondering where you were looking. Diggin in your tripod legs or setting something of weight (rocks, sticks, pack, etc) on each leg will save you some frustrations. In addition to having a solid base, get familiar with your fluid head and it’s adjustments. You don’t want to have them too loose but you also don’t want them cranked too tight. The perfect medium is where you can loosen your pan or tilt with one head without torque on the tripod so much that you’re moving it.

Binos or Spotter or Both?

As I continue to grow as an elk hunter I reflect back to earlier hunts. Things I did wrong, things I did right, lessons I’ve learned and often wondered about how each hunt would play out if I executed things differently. One of the biggest mistakes I make during glassing is going to fast and taking my eyes away from my spotter. For someone who has never spent hours in one place behind glass, it may seem easy. It’s not! It’s mentally exhausting and your eyes will be strained. Something I picked up from Cliff Gray, a lifetime guide and elk hunter, is to use both binoculars and a spotter. Utilize your binoculars to scan and then use your spotter to get a better look at whatever you see. This one thing has drastically increased my glassing success.

While the thoughts of glassing up a giant muley or elk may seem like easy work for those who have never done it, those who have know better. Just like the digital scouting we do for whitetails, creating a plan and considering these tips to glass will pay dividends in aiding to a successful western hunt. I can almost guarantee you won’t be good at it the first go round but with conscious efforts through preparation and execution you can find success and become better with each western experience. You may even find yourself implementing glassing more and more in the whitetail woods!

Author: Chad Sylvester, Exodus Co-Founder/Owner

I’m sitting in the low water of the Rondout Creek next to my house, with the water flowing past slowly. The sun glints off the water and dances in the most complex and beautiful way. Trees are swaying and cedar waxwings are darting in the blue sky above. In my hands and all around me, floating in the slow moving water are lengths of basswood fiber. Fiber from the bark of a tree I had carefully chosen earlier in the season from the adjacent bank to harvest and process into fiber to be used in making baskets. In this moment I feel completely serene and smile, letting the beauty of this perfect summer day fill me.

This memory of being in the river and rinsing basswood inner bark fiber represents why I do what I do in the deepest way. It was a glimpse of what it feels like to really be a human being on this earth; working with the plants and being in touch with the landscape. The entire process of working with basswood, from choosing a tree to using the fiber in baskets is very dear to me and I want to share that experience with you in this post. As you read below please remember that the plants are our greatest teachers. Just when I think I know something about basswood I get shown a new way by the plant itself! I encourage you to try the process yourself and build your own personal knowledge of working with this wonderful tree. At my 2017 Wild Basketry program I loved seeing participants getting to know the tree throughout the entire season from harvest to completing twined bags at the end of the 8 months we spent together.

Basswood, American Linden, Tilia Americana,

Basswood is the common name of one of our most beautiful native trees in North America, specifically in the region of central New York state where I live. Tilia Americana is the common name, but it is also often called by the name Linden. Besides being a wonderful shade tree the leaves are incredibly rich nutrients and serve to nourish the forest floor each year. And of course its name hints at one of its most valuable purposes: basswood = bast = fiber. The inner bark of the wonderful tree can be removed from the trunk, retted, and made into fiber for a variety of projects. It was valued by many native peoples from the east coast to the Great Lakes region. I wonder… did someone sit in the very river I harvest my basswood from and do the same process three hundred years ago? Tilia as a genus was not only important to North America. A quick glance at wikipedia tells us that there are around 30 species of Tilia throughout the northern hemisphere. In Europe it is commonly known as Linden, or Lime tree. Traditionally it was used to make cordage and other fiber products all across its range. What a truly wonderful tree.

What is Basswood Used For?

Basswood fiber makes for excellent cordage. The long lengths you can obtain are its main advantage. It may not be as strong as dogbane or as soft as milkweed, but I love the color it’s flexibility. It also takes dye really well.

It is also great for using in twined projects, using as a sewing strand, wrapping, and basically any thing else you can dream of! Recently I’ve also been using the inner bark before it is retted as long flexible stakes for weaving pack baskets. I hope that in a year I can update this post with even more used for this great material! If you are fortunate enough to be surrounded by basswood tree you are indeed lucky and blessed.

How to Harvest and Process Basswood

When to Harvest

I have found that the best season for me to harvest and peel the bark from basswood in my part of the world, which is the Hudson Valley, in New York State, is in June. I have peeled logs as early as May and as late as October and it still works, but is more difficult to separate the inner bark from the wood log.

How to Choose a Tree

The perfect tree is the one that says yes when you ask if it is open to becoming something new. There are many ways to ask a tree if it is ready, but I’ll share my process. First I close my eyes, touch the tree and just ask, either out loud or in thought. Then I step back and really look at the tree and it’s surroundings. Is it part of a cluster of many trees where removing it won’t damage the ecosystem or is it the only basswood in the forest? Is it easy to get to or far out of reach? Will cutting it down damage other trees? Is the tree healthy or struggling to survive? Is there a bird’s nest and its branches? Does it just feel right or wrong? Does it for fulfill the general requirements for a good basket tree listed below? Pay attention to the signs and trust your instincts. Don’t be afraid to hear no and continue looking.

The Specifics of Good Basket Tree

Besides the tree’s readiness to be cut down, you are also looking for physical characteristics which make a tree better for getting long, straight, easy to use fiber. A long, straight trunk with very few branches is ideal. I usually harvest trees between 5 and 10 inches in diameter which are growing tightly in clusters with more basswoods. This being said you can also remove the bark from fallen branches, crooked trees, and other less ideal trees. I recently removed the bark from a large 16″ diameter tree. It was backbreaking work, but so far the bark seems like it’ll be great. Some I used as thicker stakes and some I put in a bin to ret.

Removing the Outer Bark

After you have safely cut down the tree, you can remove any unnecessary branches and either prepare to remove the bark in the field, or move the trunk to your working area. If I have a very long trunk I’ll usually cut it into sections about 10 feet long to carry out. In my process I use a draw knife to first remove the rough great outer bark from the log. You want to get all the scaly gray bark off without cutting too deeply into be inner bark. It’s a fine line and only practice will help you get over the learning curve of this process.

Peeling the Inner Bark Off the Log

Once the log is completely smooth I will cut lines about 4 inches apart down the entire log through the inner bark layer all the way into the wood. Then peel each section up from the log. This is the material that will become cordage after it is retted. The wood you are left with is excellent for carving; soft and easy to work with. Save it or give it to a friend who will make good use of it.

Retting Basswood Fiber

As soon as you have peeled the sections of basswood inner bark from the trunk it is time to put them through a process called retting. Retting sounds alot like ‘rotting’ and in a way that is what is happening. In water retting you submerge the lengths of basswood inner bark in water for a period of 6-8 weeks. During this time microorganisms in the water rot away the cellular tissue and pectins leaving only the long gorgeous strands of bast fiber. It’s a stinky, fun process that is a good way to scare your neighbors away as buckets of rotting bark sit out all summer next to your house! It may end up taking longer than 8 weeks. Just test it and put it back if it’s not done. Sometimes I’ll even peel half of the layers off and then put it back to get the rest of it retted enough to use.

It is best in my opinion to ret your basswood fibers in water that is full of life. River or pond water is great, but if you must use water from the hose the process will still work, but it seems to take longer. I usually take a large tote bin down to the river. First I put the basswood lengths in the tote using the space in the most economical way, by putting coils inside coils until the whole bin is full.

Be gentle when coiling your basswood. If you bend it too sharply it will crack and those cracks will come back to haunt you later when you find your fibers are broken into two foot sections along the length of your beautiful 8 foot piece of bark. Learn from my mistakes and be patient and gentle! Then I use a bucket to fill the bin to the top, making sure it is far enough from the bank that rising water won’t wash it away.

Make sure every single inch is completely submerged with a couple inches of water on top. Do not skimp on this! Even a tiny piece exposed can be a real pain later. Don’t be lazy, and take your time weighing down the pieces with rocks. I was wisely told once that impatience is wanting something for nothing. If it doesn’t all fit then get another bin or bucket. Again I have taken shortcuts and ended up with dry spots in the middle of otherwise perfectly good lengths.

Let the bin of basswood fiber sit for 6-8 weeks, or longer. Check on it to make sure water levels are good. Sometimes if the water gets too nasty I’ll pour it out and refill it. I’m not sure if leaving the same nasty water or changing it periodically is better for the basswood.

When is it ready? You can tell it’s ready when the bark is very flexible when you squeeze it. Give it a test once in awhile and usually after 6-8 weeks it is ready. You can always take one piece out and try rinsing it and if it doesn’t come apart then put it back in for longer.

Rinsing the Basswood Fiber

My favorite way of rinsing basswood fiber is to take the lengths of bark into the river itself. There, rub the bark and bend it and if it is ready soon you will see layers of the bark start to separate. Continue to work it, peeling and rubbing and squeezing it until beautiful, translucent layers of fiber separate along the whole length of the bark. They may feel slimy. Just continue to rinse them until they feel clean and then take each piece or group of pieces and let them dry in the sun. Either before or after they dry I like to bundle each group of pieces neatly so they don’t get tangled in storage. Make sure they are completely dry before storing them. You put so much work into processing and harvesting, not to mention all the work the tree did growing. Don’t let it go to waste and be grateful for every inch of beautiful fiber that you iwll soon be making into beautiful products.

Making bags, cordage, and more