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62 Names for Your Hunting Dog

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Hunting dogs have been bred and trained for centuries to assist humans in their hunting pursuits. They are strong, agile, and intelligent, making them ideal companions for hunting trips. Naming your hunting dog is an important part of the bonding process between you and your furry friend. A great name not only reflects your dog’s personality and characteristics but also adds to their hunting persona.

In this blog post, we will share with you the best hunting dog names from various sources that will suit any breed and help you find the perfect name for your four-legged companion.

  • Ace – A short and snappy name for a dog who is always on top of their game and excels in the field.
  • Arrow – A strong and swift name for a hunting dog who can navigate through the woods like a pro.
  • Aspen – Named after the popular ski resort town, this name is perfect for a dog that loves to hunt in the mountains or is from Colorado.
  • Blaze – A fiery name for a dog who has an intense passion for the hunt and can track down prey with ease.
  • Boone – Named after Daniel Boone, a famous frontiersman and hunter.
  • Brook – Inspired by brook trout, this name is fitting for a waterfowl retriever or a dog that loves to swim.
  • Browning – Named after the Browning Arms Company
  • Buck – This classic hunting dog name is inspired by the iconic game animal and is fitting for a dog that is quick, nimble, and agile.
  • Cabela – Named after Cabela’s, a hunting and fishing retail store.
  • Canyon – Named after the many canyons and gorges found in hunting areas.
  • Cascade – Inspired by the Cascade mountain range, this name is great for a dog that loves to hunt in the mountains or is from the Pacific Northwest.
  • Cheyenne – Named after the capital city of Wyoming, this name is great for a dog that loves to hunt in the western United States or is from the region.
  • Chief – A powerful and commanding name for a dog who takes charge and leads the way on the hunt.
  • Colt – A name for a young hunting dog who is full of energy and eager to learn.
  • Dash – A name for a dog who is quick and agile on their feet, making them a valuable asset on the hunt.
  • Duke – A name for a regal and noble hunting dog who exudes strength and loyalty.
  • Flint – Named after Flintlock, a type of gun used for hunting.
  • Gage – Named after a shotgun gauge, which measures the diameter of the gun barrel.
  • Glacier – Named after the Glacier National Park, a popular outdoors spot in Montana.
  • Grizzly – Inspired by the large and powerful bear, this name is fitting for a hunting dog that is big, strong, and fearless.
  • Grouse – Named after the popular game bird, this name is perfect for a hunting dog that excels in upland bird hunting.
  • Gunner – A name for a dog who is skilled in shooting game birds and can retrieve them with ease.
  • Hank – A name for a dog who is a loyal and reliable companion on the hunt, always by their owner’s side.
  • Huckleberry – Named after the wild berries often found on hunting trips.
  • Hunter – A straightforward and fitting name for a dog who was born to hunt.
  • Kodiak – Inspired by the large bear species, this name is fitting for a hunting dog that is big, strong, and always on the hunt
  • Marlin – Named after the popular pelagic fish, this name is great for a dog that loves to spend time on the water.
  • Maverick – A name for a daring and adventurous dog who loves to explore new terrain on the hunt.
  • Mossy – This name is inspired by the popular camouflage brand and is perfect for a dog that loves to hunt in the woods and blend in with the surroundings.
  • Nellie – Named after Nellie Creek, a popular hunting spot in Montana.
  • Oakley – A name for a hunting dog who is strong, sturdy, and can withstand any challenge that comes their way.
  • Orvis – Named after Orvis, a famous hunting and fishing supply company.
  • Ozark – Named after the Ozark Mountains, a popular hunting destination in Arkansas and Missouri.
  • Pheasant – A cute and quirky name for a dog that helps hunt pheasants.
  • Quill – Named after a feather quill, which hunters may use to memorialize their hunts.
  • Red – This name is inspired by the color of many game animals and is fitting for a hunting dog that is fast, fierce, and always on the hunt.
  • Redwood – Named after the Redwood National and State Parks, which offer hunting opportunities.
  • Remi – Named after Remington
  • Remington – A name for a dog who is a skilled gun dog, known for their excellent retrieval abilities.
  • Ridge – A name for a dog who can navigate through rough and rocky terrain with ease.
  • Rio – Named after the Rio Grande, a river that flows through many popular hunting destinations.
  • Rocky – Named after the iconic mountain range, this name is great for a dog that is tough, rugged, and always up for a challenge.
  • Ruger – This name pays homage to the firearms company and is great for a dog that is tough, reliable, and always gets the job done.
  • Sage – Named after the sagebrush found in many hunting locations.
  • Scout – A name for a dog who is always on the lookout for game and can spot prey from a distance.
  • Shooter – A name for a dog who is a sharpshooter and can hit their target with precision.
  • Sierra – Named after the Sierra Nevada mountain range, this name is perfect for a hunting dog that is tough, rugged, and loves to explore the great outdoors.
  • Steele – A strong and durable name for a hunting dog who can withstand harsh weather conditions.
  • Stone – Named after the rocky terrain often found in hunting areas.
  • Tahoe – Named after Lake Tahoe, a popular destination for hunting and fishing.
  • Talon – A fitting name for a hunting dog with sharp claws.
  • Timber – Named after the wooded areas where hunting often takes place.
  • Tracker – A fitting name for a dog that helps track down game.
  • Trigger – A name for a dog who is quick to act and can respond to commands in a split second.
  • Turbo – A name for a dog who has boundless energy and can keep up with their owner on a long hunt.
  • Whiskey – A name for a dog who is spirited and lively, bringing excitement to every hunting trip.
  • Winchester – Named after the Winchester Repeating Arms Company, which produces hunting firearms.
  • Wyatt – A name for a dog who is a fearless and determined hunter, always up for a challenge.
  • Yukon – Named after the Yukon River and the Yukon Territory, known for their abundant wildlife.
  • Zephyr – A name for a dog who is fast and agile, like a gentle breeze that blows through the woods.
  • Zeus – A name for a dog who is powerful and commanding, like the king of the gods.
  • Zion – Named after the popular national park, this name is perfect for a hunting dog that loves to explore the wilderness and climb mountains.

Is It Illegal To Pickup Arrowheads In Texas?

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You can keep arrowheads you find on private land

Although different places have different laws, anything you find on public land (national parks, for example) is off-limits. What you find on private land that you have permission to look for arrowheads on is legal. Different laws apply in different places, but that is the general rule.

If arrowheads are on the surface, can you pick them up on public land?

No. Even if you don’t dig for the arrowheads, picking up arrowheads on public land is not allowed. There is always a fine per artifact if you collect arrowheads on public land.

It is not usually a felony to take arrowheads illegally, but you should look for arrowheads respectfully and legally. Look for arrowheads on private land with the owner’s permission.

A large majority of the land in Texas and elsewhere is privately owned, and a large majority of arrowheads can be found on this land. You aren’t missing out on anything special if you don’t look for arrowheads on public land.

In most states, you can’t dig up an archeological site even on private land that you have permission to use. There are laws against digging up archeological sites.

However, it can be legal to dig for artifacts in Texas because of property rights. The property owner gets to decide what happens to an archeological site on their land.

Any of the following are public land:

  • National parks
  • National forests
  • Bureau of land management land
  • National monuments

There are privately owned lakes that the public is allowed to use, where you may find arrowheads. It is usually legal to find arrowheads at these locations.

Are public waterways off-limits?

It depends on what state you are in. For example, it is legal in Missouri but illegal in Florida. Riverbeds are a good place to find arrowheads, but make sure it is legal.

Often, anything you find in a river is the property of the state, so it may be illegal to take anything you find. It can be illegal to dive for arrowheads without a permit.

Trespassing laws usually do not cover rivers. If the river is big enough to take a canoe down easily, it is usually legal to use the river. Check the laws in your state.

Is it legal to dig for arrowheads?

It is not legal to dig up archeological sites. Digging for artifacts on Federal land or Indian reservations is illegal under the Archaeological Resources Protection Act of 1979.

The act is there to protect sites valuable to archeologists from being dug up by amateurs who will not learn valuable archeological information. The laws also protect native cultural heritage sites. It is considered looting to dig up a burial mound.

Oddly, the laws do not apply to natural artifacts, such as dinosaur fossils. You can dig for fossils on public land. Fossils are considered paleontological rather than archeological, so the act does not apply.

Digging up burial mounds is disrespectful and illegal. You cannot dig up an area where you find human remains or assume you are likely to find them even on your own property.

It is not necessary to illegally dig up burial sites to find good arrowheads. One of the best places to find arrowheads is near rivers, where it is usually legal to look for arrowheads.

You can also find arrowheads after a flood, even a small flood that does not damage any property. When a river floods, it disturbs the ground and can uncover artifacts.

The 1979 act does not apply to private land, so it is legal to dig for arrowheads. The owner of the property must be willing to let you dig, or else you could be charged with damaging their property. You cannot dig up human burial sites even on private property.

How do the laws in Texas compare to laws in other states?

In Texas, property owners decide what happens to artifacts on their land. This reinforces the legality of digging up sites without having an archeological permit.

If you find artifacts on someone else’s property and you have permission from the owner to keep what you find, you can take and sell the arrowheads. Texas property rights mean that the owner can decide to do what they want with archeological sites on their property.

Do a lot of people look for artifacts illegally?

Yes, some antique dealers illegally dig up sites on private property to find artifacts to sell. Some even hire people to dig up sites at night. This is illegal and unethical for many reasons, including because it damages the owner’s property.

Artifacts found by archeologists are taken out of the ground carefully while collecting as much information as possible. They take detailed notes and photograph everything as it is removed from the ground.

If someone digs up a burial mound without notes and photographs, it stops being possible to learn as much about the site as archeologists could have.

Campsites are not quite the same as burial mounds. It may be more ethical or legal to dig up campsites. The best place to find arrowheads is on or near the surface.

How old are the oldest arrowheads in Texas?

Projectile points as much as 16000 years old have been found in Texas. These spear or dart points are some of the oldest tools ever found in the Americas.

This surprised the discoverers, who did not expect to find anything that old in Texas. The points are more than 2000 years older than anything previously found in the area.

How long ago people came to the Americas is not known for sure. A conservative estimate is still only about 16000 years, roughly as old as the recent finds in Texas. Most archeologists believe 20,000 years is the best estimate.

However, evidence is building up in favor of much earlier dates. There may have been people in the Americas for about twice that long.

Even how people reached the Americas is disputed. Arguably, some people reached South America from Australia and Melanesia at a very early date. Many people came from Siberia to Alaska, but other people may have reached the Americans in other ways.

Understanding Rifle Scopes – Serious Shooters

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We understand Rifle Scopes

Rifle Scopes

Selecting the right riflescope.

How to avoid the common mistakes.

Serious Shooters shows you how.

When buying a new telescopic sight, it is best to start with a clean sheet. There are many things to consider and there is no one type of scope that is good for every gun. Just because your friend has a 3-9×40 on his hunting rifle does not automatically make it the best scope for your hunting rifle.

Buy the best scope you can afford for the gun. Dont put a $99 Shining Deer Special on Old Betsy if your next trip is two weeks in Fiordland. You will never forgive yourself if it fails while you are on The Big Trip. Unless you try to use your riflescope as a spotting scope, (which you shouldn’t), or you are a serious target shooter, you are unlikely to notice large differences in optical quality just by looking through the scope, anyway. The most important reasons for buying a more expensive scope are not that obviously visible. The most important virtues of a telescopic sight are reliability and retaining a zero.

They dont make em like they used to. Right! Modern manufacturing techniques have made todays scopes cheaper, more reliable, and with better lens coatings than what was ever possible before. Many new scopes were impossible to make before the invention of computer optical design programmes.

Dont Buy Old Technology. Don’t buy a particular scope just because your mate’s got one or your uncle had one. One of the most requested scopes in New Zealand is a 30+years old optical design that has poor lens coatings, dreadful reflections and no click-stops on the adjustments. Its sole recommendation is that it doesnt often fog or fail. But neither will many better, newer and CHEAPER scopes.

There a wide range of possibilities when it comes to selecting the best scope for your rifle. Lets look at a few generalizations and go from there. The point is, that you need to match the scope to the type of shooting you will most often be doing, and the rifle it is to go on. Many people get it wrong. They automatically want to put a 3-9×40 on their deer rifle and a fixed 4 power scopes on their 22lr. Why, when rabbits are smaller than deer and are frequently seen at equal or greater ranges than deer.

Lets look at 22s. Most 22s are used for rabbits & possums. Sitting side on at 75 meters a rabbit presents a target roughly the size of a clay house brick. The instant kill area is smaller than a business card. On possums, very often you can only see the eyes. A bit of magnification helps pick up the body and avoid twigs and branches. Both rabbits and possums can usually be relied to sit still for at least a few seconds. Most people only want to buy a fixed 4x power, but we usually recommend a 3-9×40, for most circumstances it is the best all-round scope on a 22lr. In many brands the difference in price between fixed and variable power scopes is usually negligible.

Scopes for Deer, Goat or Pig hunting rifles. Most people by far, ask for a 3-9×40 scope on their deer rifle. If a rabbit has a credit card sized kill area, a deer has one the size of an dinner plate. A goat’s heart/lung area is about the size of a bread and butter plate. A much bigger target than a rabbit, it is frequently seen at 5 to 25 meters and often, on the move. Even at 200metres a dinner plate is a reasonable target, well achievable with a 5x power scope. That is the equivalent of the same plate at 40 meters with no magnification. We feel a 3-9x is more than you need for most deer hunting and lacks sufficient field of view for close running shots. We recommend a 1.5-5x, or up to 2-7x for most deer rifles. The small front lens diameter is not a disadvantage as its field of view and light gathering capability are both greater at lower magnification anyway.

Exceptions where a bigger scope might be appropriate are when the rifle is used principally on Thar, Chamois and deer open country or tops shooting. Then consider a 3.5-10 or 4-14 power.

Scopes for Varmint Rifles. Lets move that house brick sized rabbit out to 100, 200 or even 300 metres. Magpies are worse with a kill zone the size of a 50mm long (2) piece of broomstick. Any takers for the 3-9x?? In this area, more is better. Trade the light gathering for pure magnification. You need it. Ignore scopes with very fine crosshair only reticles. You cant see them in hunting situations where there is no white paper target to aim at. Pick a standard or fine 30/30 or Plex type reticle and buy the most expensive you can afford. In varmint scopes, cost equals quality. Avoid powerful fixed power scopes, as they wont let you take a 25m shot. Use a front lens shade and invest in a laser rangefinder and a bipod. Oh, and a broad stretchy sling to save your shoulder when you have to carry it all.

Hornets need at least 12x to 16x scopes (3-12x or 4-16x). 222s & 223s need at least 16x magnification at the top end. 22-250s and bigger need at least 24x. As you start to shoot your varmint rifle you will start to grow into the more powerful varmint scope. You will actually see your heartbeat bouncing the cross hairs at anything more than a 16x power setting. But, amazingly, after a few months you will learn to shoot between the heart beats (truly) and then you will start to use the top end of your scopes magnification range. Trust me… a magpie at even 200m is a mighty small target. You wouldnt put cross-ply tyres on your sports car. Don’t put a 3-9x on your Varmint rifle.

Variable v/s Fixed Power. The reasons for not buying variable scopes used to be that they were more expensive, had lower quality optics and broke or fogged more often. None of these things are true any more. In many cases a variable power scope is the same price or cheaper now that a similar fixed power scope. The scope makers make so many variable powered scopes, that the unit manufacturing cost is much lower. The staff at Serious Shooters hardly own any fixed power scopes.

Eye relief is the distance that you hold your eye from the back of the scope. Features of eye relief are the distance required to see a clear full picture through the scope, and sufficient distance to protect you from Weatherby or Magnum Eyebrow from a powerfully recoiling rifle. Generous Eye relief means that you can move your eye back and forward through perhaps an inch or two (25-50mm) and still see clearly. Shallow eye relief means there is only one right spot. Scopes like that are not good for quick or running shots. Scope Turrets cover the adjustment dials, usually in the middle of the scope. Target Turrets may be tall, and some may not even have screw-on caps to cover them. Hunting Turrets are small (not tall) and ideally should have clearly defined click-stops in their adjustment. Click stops vary from 2 clicks to the inch, to 8 clicks to the inch, but 4 clicks to the inch is most common.

Scope mounts. There is a bewildering range of options to choose from when selecting scope mounts. They range from $19.95 to way over $500. It is always to your advantage to buy the best scope mounts that you can afford.

Understanding Parallax. Telescopic sights are manufactured to be parallax-free at a particular distance. At the stated distance, you can move your eye around behind the scope and the crosshairs do not wander on the target. This distance is usually 100yds, but some special scopes are focused at closer or greater ranges. Parallax is not a big deal on most deer rifles but is very important at 25m or closer, on very small targets, or for long range precision shooting. It is more noticeable on very powerful magnification scopes; so most riflescopes more powerful than 10x power have a ring on the front (or a third knob on the turret) for dialling the correct parallax. If you have an adjustable parallax scope on a hunting rifle, leave it set on 100yds/mtrs for most shooting, or 25-50yds for close range rabbit shooting.

Light gathering is the ability of your scope to gather all available light from a target and transmit it through the scope to you eye. The larger the front lens or tube diameter, the more light than can be got to your eye.

Magnification. Riflescopes are usually referred to by their magnification power and the diameter in millimetres of the front (objective) lens. i.e. a 4×40, 1.75-5×32 or 4-16×44.

Serious Shooters will recommend the most suitable mounts for your scope and your rifle.

The information contained in this leaflet is copyright of SERIOUS SHOOTERS LTD

For further information contact:Serious Shooters LtdThe Best Gun Shop 726 Great South Road, Penrose, Auckland, New Zealand. Phone 64-9-579-3006

6 Sneaky Coyote Tactics to Separate Yourself From Pack

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6 Sneaky Coyote Tactics to Separate Yourself From Pack

There’s no need to let a spot rest after taking a coyote from it. Another will usually be ready to move in and take its place. (Photo by Josh Boyd)

Success is far from guaranteed when predator hunting, and every hunt holds just as many challenges as it does promise. To overcome these challenges, crafty predator hunters dig deep into their bags of tricks to turn the odds in their favor.v

Sometimes, the most overlooked or obscure tactic is the one that puts fur in the shed.

Few predator hunters’ bag of tricks run quite as deep as Tad Brown’s. Brown has spent decades chasing coyotes, bobcats and various other furbearers in every corner of the country, and he’s grown accustomed to meeting predator hunting’s challenges head-on.

The following are six of Brown’s most effective predator tips and tactics, which he regularly employs to produce consistent success.

1. Drive Instead of Walk

Over the years, the idea that vehicle traffic imparts undue pressure on local predator populations has been ingrained in the average hunter’s psyche. However, Brown feels this notion is of little merit, and that traveling as close as possible to your next set by vehicle can often be among the least invasive means of access.

“I won’t walk 10 feet to my spot if I can hop in my truck. Coyotes are so used to hearing vehicles now. You have guys checking cattle, working on plots, putting up hay and driving through farms. It’s a common occurrence, and coyotes do not pay it any attention,” says Brown.

However, he does warn against throwing all caution to the wind, and stresses the importance of remaining aware of common predator hunting fundamentals. “Just get right in there with them, but use a little common sense. You still have to have the wind to your face, and it still makes sense to hide your vehicle.”

2. Hunt Past the Initial Shot

Another tactic Brown feels others overlook is to continue calling even after the hunt’s first shots have been fired. While many believe that the sound of gunfire scatters wary coyotes to parts unknown, Brown says thinking along these lines often costs hunters more shot opportunities than they ever realize.

“Guys tend to think that once they’ve fired a shot, they’ve scared everything in the country. There is nothing further from the truth. I can think of at least a half-dozen instances where I’ve killed or shot at a coyote only to have a bobcat or another coyote come into the call,” Brown says.

He also finds it helpful to vary his calling in the moments directly following a shot. “A lot of times, after I bust a coyote, I will go to a ki-yi or pup distress,” he says. “Doing so seems to have some type of instinctual effect on them, almost like a challenge of sorts. Typically, I’ll only do this for a short period of time before changing back over to a prey sound.”

3. Hunt Quality Sets Regularly

Many predator hunters believe a location can be rendered useless by overhunting it and will allow a spot to rest for a significant period between hunts, especially after it’s produced success. On the contrary, Brown feels that nature fills the void any time predators are removed from an area, and the avoidance of quality setups can cost you fur in the long run.

“Most people discount a location if they’ve already called it. Coyotes are constantly on the move, and one will almost always take the place of another,” Brown says. “It’s almost like waiting in line for the bathroom. Once you take a coyote out of an area, others will be waiting for their turn.”

Brown has seen the benefits of frequently hunting the same spots within areas of high predator traffic on numerous occasions. “There’s a spot on a ranch I hunt that is like my honey hole,” he says. “If I’m out there for four or five days, and the wind is right, that will be the first set every morning. I’ve had hunts where a coyote responds every time I call at that location.”

predator hunting
Over the course of his career, Tad Brown has developed numerous calls and other products for brands like M.A.D. and Hunter Specialties. (Photo courtesy of Tad Brown)

4. Prepare Spots in Advance

For most, predator hunting tends to be a run-and-gun endeavor. Hunters often seat themselves in a promising looking spot and then make decisions on the fly. However, Brown says that one of his most effective strategies is preparing sets in advance.

“There isn’t anything worse than setting down in a spot, calling in a coyote and realizing you’re not in position to take advantage of it,” he says. “I like to go into an area ahead of time and sort out whether I will be able to kill a cat or coyote if they come down a particular road. I treat my predator hunting spots just like my deer or turkey spots. I like to trim shooting lanes and make sure I can see.”

Brown feels that this level of preparation not only increases his odds of success, it makes him a more effective hunter in general. “Sizing up a spot before hunting it allows me to make decisions about where and how to set up for a certain wind, as well as how best to call,” he says. “Knowing these things in advance and preparing each spot allows me to be a more efficient predator hunter and put more fur on the board.”

5. Let Curiosity Be Their Undoing

If you ask any number of predator hunters what they do to finish reluctant coyotes or bobcats, most will be adamant about varying up their calling in a bid to entice a frenzied response. Brown, on the other hand, finds that the best medicine for stubborn predators is often to let their curiosity get the best of them.

“Most guys go to a squeaker bulb or a coaxer sound to finish cats or coyotes. I tend to do nothing. I either stop calling or turn my volume way down. They know what they heard, and shutting everything off is more than a coyote or bobcat can stand,” says Brown.

He also emphasizes the importance of staying vigilant, even if a predator seems to lose interest after calling has ceased. “A lot of times a coyote will seem to slip off, and this might make you think he’s leaving. However, if you just sit there, he’ll often pop back into sight.”

6. Scale Setups Based on Location

Many hunters approach eastern predator hunting with a broad-stroke approach, mirroring many of the techniques that are commonly used when hunting in the Midwest and West. However, Brown feels that hunters often limit themselves by not tailoring their efforts to suit the area in which they are hunting.

“When hunting out West, you typically put several miles between sets. This is rarely the case when hunting in more populated areas in the East,” he says. “You almost have to treat densely populated areas like a miniature golf course. You aren’t driving that ball a couple hundred yards; you’re putting it just a few feet. When hunting the East, I typically tone my calling volume down and make more individual sets.”

He’s also quick to point out that eastern hunters are afforded a significant amount of opportunity based upon the general lay of the land. “If you were to hunt 1,000 acres of land, even if it’s more heavily populated, you can make far more sets back East than would be the case when hunting in the West.”

Much in the world of predator hunting has remained relatively unchanged over the past several decades. However, avowed predator hunting fanatics, such as Tad Brown, continue to experiment with new and innovative means of finding success. By utilizing such techniques in your own predator hunting, you’re likely to find yourself knee-deep in skinning duties this winter.

Coyote Kit

Gear that’ll take your game to the next level.

Alps Outdoorz Enforcer

If your predator hunting keeps you on the move, the Alps Outdoorz Enforcer backpack (above) is a one-size-fits-all solution for quick, convenient and comfortable setup. The Enforcer features 800 cubic inches of storage space, a removable kickstand frame and an integrated memory foam cushion. ($169.99; alpsbrands.com)

FoxPro XWAVE

FoxPro’s new XWAVE e-caller offers hunters a level of versatility that few other calls do. It features two swiveling high-definition speakers, a compatible auxiliary jack for decoy integration and 100 pre-loaded sounds with the capacity for an additional 1,000 sounds. The XWAVE is Bluetooth-enabled, allowing hunters full control from their mobile devices. ($699.95; gofoxpro.com)

Primos Double Bull Stakeout Blind

The Double Bull Stakeout Blind with SurroundView ensures that you are never left scrambling for a hideaway when gunning for predators. This two-wall blind features translucent panels that allow you to see out without predators seeing in. The Stakeout Blind is also extremely portable, weighing only 4 1/2 pounds, and deploys in seconds. ($99.99; primos.com)

Vortex Fury HD 5000

This range-finding binocular makes it possible to glass for coyotes while simultaneously gauging their distance. While looking through these 10X42 optics, a hunter can center a small crosshair and take distance measurements out to 5,000 yards. This state-of-the-art bino features a “scan” mode, which allows for real-time distance measurement when tracking moving predators. ($1,599.99; vortexoptics.com)

Alabama Turkey Season 2024: New Rules & Dates!

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Interested in a hunting adventure? Look no further than Alabama, where the extended hunting season and large number of turkeys make for a thrilling adventure. The Alabama Turkey season provides a range of possibilities to bag a gobbler, whether you’re an experienced hunter or a novice. The prospects of a successful hunt are high since the bulk of turkeys are taken during the spring season and because both the fall and spring seasons have hefty bag limits of five gobblers each. Although decoys are only allowed in the spring, the longer season gives you plenty of time to manoeuvre.

Alabama Turkey Hunting Season

Alabama has more wild turkeys due to conservation efforts that began in the early 1900s. Their initiatives have opened countless hunting opportunities. Controlled burning, wildlife openings, and timber harvesting have helped the turkey rebound. Most turkeys are harvested in Alabama’s lengthy spring. Hunters may take one gobbler per day throughout the fall and spring seasons, while decoys are only allowed in spring with limited usage limitations.

Below here are Schedule for the latest Turkey Season in Alabama.

ZONE-1

Alabama Turkey SeasonStart DateEnd DateNote Zone-1Saturday, March 25, 2024Monday, May 08, 2024Decoys allowed April 4

Counties: Autauga, Baldwin, Barbour, Bibb, Blount, Butler, Bullock, Butler, Calhoun, Chambers, Cherokee, Chilton, Choctaw, Cleburne, Coffee, Conecuh, Coosa, Crenshaw, Cullman (except north of Lewis Smith Lake and north of Cullman County Road 437 and west of Interstate 65), Dale, Dallas, DeKalb, Elmore, Escambia, Et

ZONE 2

Alabama Turkey SeasonStart DateEnd DateNote Zone-2Saturday, April 01, 2024Monday, May 08, 2024Decoys allowed April 11

Counties: Franklin, Lauderdale, Lawrence, Limestone, Madison, Morgan, and Winston. Colbert, Cullman (north of Lewis Smith Lake, north of Cullman County Road 437, and west of Interstate 65).

ZONE 3

Alabama Turkey SeasonStart DateEnd DateNote Zone-3Sunday, November 19, 2024Monday, November 27, 2024No decoys allowed Zone-3Sunday, December 10, 2024Sunday, January 01, 2024No decoys allowed Zone-3Saturday, March 25, 2024Monday, May 08, 2024Decoys allowed April 4

Counties: Covington, Monroe, Randolph, Clarke, Clay, Talladega, and Covington.

Note:

Type of HuntGobbler LimitNote Gobblers OnlyOne per day, four bag limitDuring combined fall and spring season Special Youth Hunt (Decoys Allowed)Saturday & Sunday the week prior to opening of spring season Special Disabled Hunt (Decoys Allowed)One day prior to all regular season opening days. Participants must meet medical requirements of regulation 220-2-.109(2)(d)

Bag Limit

Alabama Turkey Bag LimitNote The daily limit is one gobbler.There is a total of 4 gobblers that may be taken in the autumn and spring seasons combined. No more than two gobblers may be taken from any Wildlife Management Area, Conservation and Hunting Area, or National Forest Ranger District.N/A For the first ten days of each season, only one gobbler may be taken from each WMA, CHA, and National Forest Ranger District.N/A

License Requirements

License RequiredDescription All Game Hunting Licenseunless exempt Harvest Recordpaper form or on the app Wildlife Management License and map permitIF hunting on a WMA Harvest Reporting48 hours to report turkey harvest through Game Check

U.S. Forest Service Ranger & WMA Districts

AreaStart DateEnd DateTime Limit Bankhead Ranger District; WMAs – Lauderdale, Freedom Hills, Black Warrior, Coon Gulf, Riverton CHA and Martin CHASaturday, April 08, 2024Monday, May 08, 2024daylight – 1 p.m. REMAINDER OF NATIONAL FORESTS DISTRICTS (Talladega Ranger District, Shoal Creek Ranger District, Oakmulgee Ranger District, Tuskegee Ranger District and Conecuh Ranger District) and WMAs THAT ALLOW TURKEY HUNTINGSaturday, April 01, 2024Monday, May 08, 2024daylight – 1 p.m.

Hunting Regulations for Turkey in AL

  • Before going out to hunt for deer or turkeys, you must have a harvest record, whether it be on paper or an app. Additionally, it is against the law to transfer any deer or turkey before noting the harvest on the harvest record and to fail to report any deer or turkey taken via Game Check.
  • Except for turkey, all lawful game animals and birds may be hunted from elevated tree stands only with a bow and arrow or handgun.
  • Hunting migrating birds or turkeys without using live decoys is not permitted.
  • Hunting is not permitted when using electronic dove, turkey, or waterfowl calls. However, they can summon predators when that species is being hunted.
  • Those decoys used for turkey hunting that include mechanical or electrical components capable of creating sound or movement or that can be controlled to do so, including any that are portable or linked to weapons like fans or reapers, are forbidden. After the first ten days of the spring turkey season, as well as during the special spring hunts for disabled people and youngsters, legal turkey decoys are permitted.
  • It is against the law to import, possess, sell, or offer to sell live any species of mongoose, wild rabbit or hare, deer, raccoon, fox, skunk, coyote, wild turkey, wild rodents, wild goat, sheep, antelope, or other exotic game from any region outside of Alabama, as well as any fish from the genera Clarias, Serrasalmus, or Mylopharyngodon.
  • Any turkey, domestic or wild, may not be released into a state’s wild region.

For entire regulations you may read our Latest Alabama Hunting seasons article.

Brandon Wicks’s Biggest Mule Deer Ever

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Wicks_day2_hdr

I’ve been bowhunting for 30 years and in the 2016 season, I took my biggest mule deer ever with a bow. I shoot a PSE Omen bow and on this hunt, I was using a Rage Hypodermic broadhead.

I go to Wyoming fishing. I wanted to hunt mule deer in Wyoming, but I had been guiding so much that I hadn’t had a chance to go to Wyoming and hunt for myself. 2016 was the only time in 10 years that I was able to make a mule deer hunt in Wyoming. When I drew my tag, I knew I’d be hunting in a really good unit.

I made six scouting trips before the season. I found a buck in the middle of July, then I didn’t see him again for 1-1/2 months. I found him again five or six days before my hunt started. I had pulled my trailer up to the area that I wanted to hunt five days before the season. When I saw this buck, his antlers had grown from about a 210-inch buck to a 252-inch buck in a little bit more than 1-1/2 months.

I came back home to Utah for a couple of days, and all I could think about was that mule deer buck. I went back to Wyoming two days before bow season started on Thursday. I arrived on Tuesday, and I found that buck again on Wednesday. The buck was holding on a peak at about 10,000 feet – almost above the tree line. I saw a grizzly bear, two wolves and about five or six black bears. I could see the Grand Teton Mountains off to my west.

I was hunting along the Wind River where one of the tallest peaks in Wyoming is and it’s called Gannet Peak. This is a really remote area of Wyoming, and I rarely see any other hunters when I’m up there. The first time I found this buck and every time I found him until I took him, he was on the same peak. I had put some trail cameras out on this mountain, and I got trail camera pictures from when he scored about 210 inches.

Wicks_day2I was hiking in to my stand before daylight on the day I took the buck. My Dad and a friend of mine were hunting on the opposite side of the mountain from me. All the way in to where I was going to setup, I thought about the bears I had seen when I was scouting. I had one hand on my bow and the other hand on my bear spray as I moved silently through the dark woods. I hoped that the buck would be feeding at daylight on a south-facing slope where I had seen him before. One of the advantages of bowhunting mule deer in the early season is, because their antlers are still in the velvet, they tend to stay in open places more often than when they’re in hard horn.

The buck I was hunting was with another buck that would score about 180 on the P&Y scale. About 8 a.m., when the sun started warming up, the bucks would usually leave the open areas and move to the north side of the slope. I decided to try and intercept the buck as he went from his feeding area in the early morning to his bedding area. When I spotted the buck, I knew I had to climb the mountain to get above him. I climbed between 1,000 and 2,000 feet up above the buck. I was only about 100 yards from the top of the mountain when I set up. As the two deer moved toward me, the smaller buck was leading my buck up a trail about 50 yards from me.

Once I finally took the shot, the arrow hit the buck hard enough to turn the buck around and cause him to start going back down the trail he had just come up. Then the buck bedded down about 80 yards from me. After about 30 minutes, I saw the buck come rolling out of this patch of trees where he had bedded down. If he hadn’t hit this one tree while he was rolling, he would have fallen off a ledge, landed about 500 feet down the mountain and probably would have broken his rack.

He was a 252-inch buck, and he had a total of 25 points. The buck was also the state record for mule deer taken in the velvet in the state of Wyoming.

Day 1: Mossy Oak Pro Brandon Wicks’s Biggest Bull Elk

Tomorrow: One of Brandon Wicks’s Most Memorable Elk Hunts

Elk Sounds of the Season

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Slowly stalking through stands of conifers and golden aspens, you stop and cup your hand to your ear. There it is again, the sound, unmistakable and piercing. After days of trekking, you’ve finally heard the roar of a bull elk, and you’ve got him pinpointed. That’s when the stalk begins across the ridge. This is what you’ve been waiting for all year.

Understanding the elk sounds of the season will give you a leg up when you head to the woods this fall.

Understanding the elk sounds of the season will give you a leg up when you head to the woods this fall.

For us, there’s almost nothing better in this world than hearing elk sounds echo throughout the mountains. No other animal in North America sounds quite like it. And the different cadences are extraordinary. For the elk hunter, it’s important to understand exactly what these vocalizations mean. For instance, you want to know if the sounds you’re hearing are from a bull or cow, if they’re alert or calm. This will also help you become a better caller, allowing you to draw the animals in close enough for a shot.

Bugle

Even non-hunters can recognize a bugle from a bull elk. It’s a multi-tone sound that begins low and transitions into what can only be described as a loud scream. Bulls bugle during the rut when they’re seeking a mate. The vocalization also serves as a warning to other bulls in the area as a sign of dominance. While you can’t judge the size of a bull based on his bugle, it can be used as a beacon to pinpoint his location. Use the Back Country Elk Decoy and a bugle call to draw him into range. When the rut is in full swing, he won’t be able to resist the prospect of fighting off another male to protect his harem.

Glunking

This is a sound made by a bull that you may also hear during the rut. A glunk is a muffled bass sound, in single tones, one after the other in quick succession. The bull uses this vocalization to communicate with groups of cows. So if you hear this, there’s a good chance there are cows nearby as well.

Chuckle

Bulls will produce a chuckle at the end of a bugle. It sounds like a series of short, loud grunts. However, he may chuckle without bugling. This is another vocalization that is meant to express dominance to males and attract females. Many bugle calls can produce a chuckle, and it’s a great way to add variation to your call sequences.

Bark

This call is used by elk to alert the herd of danger. The vocalization is a single, sharp sound.

Typically, if you hear a bark, the whole herd will quickly disappear because they’ve spotted or winded you. Barks are bad and a sound you want to avoid hearing.

Cow in Estrus

Cows will use this vocalization during the rut to signify she is ready to breed. It sounds like a whine, similar to a bugle but not as high-pitched or as long. This is a handy call to keep in your bag, as this can be used to locate a herd or stop a bull when you’re ready to shoot.

Calf

A calf will sound similar to a cow, although the tone will be much lower. Typically, their calls will be single sounds, similar to a squeak. Much like whitetail does, cow elk will respond to the bleating of a lost calf. If you can pique the curiosity of a few cows with a calf call, they’ll come into bow range. If you’re hunting bulls this can also be advantageous as he’ll often follow cows to ensure his harem doesn’t get separated.

Chirp

This call is made by cows and bulls, often when a large herd is together. They’re general noises elk make when near each other, feeding contently. If you hear these sounds, you can expect a herd close by.

14 Types of Orange Mushrooms (with Pictures) – Identification Guide

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Orange mushrooms growing in your yard or lawn can seem to appear overnight. Bright orange mushrooms are easy to spot growing among blades of grass in dark, shaded areas, or on rotting tree trunks. Species of these orange fruiting bodies can grow in spongy clusters or have cylindrical stems with rounded or flat caps with gills on their underside.

Although some varieties of orange mushrooms, like the golden chanterelle, are edible, many are highly poisonous. For example, the toxic orange mushroom, Jack-O’lantern (Omphalotus olearius), is easily mistaken for a chanterelle because it has a similar shape and deep yellow to orange cap.

This article is only a general guide to identifying varieties of orange mushrooms common in yards and lawns. However, its purpose is not to advise on how to identify edible orange mushrooms from poisonous mushrooms. Mushroom foraging for consumption requires expert knowledge and experience. Therefore, never eat any type of mushroom without correctly identifying the species.

Descriptions and pictures of orange mushrooms and toadstools will highlight identifying features to look for. Please read on to learn about the types of wild orange mushrooms you could find growing in your yard.

Orange Mushrooms in the Lawn

Clusters of orange mushrooms are common sights in lawns in the fall after abundant rain. The bright to deep orange shades of these orange fruiting fungi contrast with dark green turfgrass. Common orange lawn mushrooms include the Jack-O’lantern (Omphalotus olearius), orange peel mushroom (Aleuria aurantia), and the bright orange goblet waxcap mushroom (Hygrocybe Cantharellus).

Why Mushrooms Grow in the Yard

Orange mushrooms grow in your yard because fungi in the soil start fruiting under ideal conditions. Like all fungi, wild orange mushrooms are small fruiting bodies that thrive in rich soil, shaded conditions, warm temperatures, and high humidity. Hence, you will most likely find lawn mushrooms in yards in late summer and fall.

You will likely find orange mushrooms near decaying organic matter growing in shaded conditions in your yard. Therefore, wild mushrooms are common under shrubs, in mulch, in the grass, and where tree trunks enter the ground.

What should you do if you find brightly colored orange or orange-red mushrooms in your yard? Generally, you can leave them alone. However, if you are unsure of the species and kids or pets play in the garden, removing them is best.

How to Identify Orange Mushrooms

Apart from their shades of orange, identifying features of orange mushrooms are the shape of the cap, stem, and size. After picking the mushroom, look to see if the cap’s underside has gills, pores, or a spongy feel. Then examine the mushroom’s color and the color of the flesh.

Some identifying features of edible species of mushrooms are their brown, orange, or tan gills, brownish orange caps, and smooth caps without scales or warty growths. Also, there should be no veil-like ring around the stem. However, these are only general guidelines, and you should never identify mushrooms based solely on these criteria.

Types of Orange Mushrooms (With Pictures) – Identification Guide

Let’s look in more detail at common mushrooms with orange fruiting bodies in shades of yellow-orange, red-orange, or pale orange with white spots. The chances are that some of these varieties of orange mushrooms are growing in your lawn or backyard.

Jack-O’Lantern Mushroom (Omphalotus olearius and Omphalotus illudens)

The jack-o’lantern mushroom is one of the most common orange mushrooms you will find growing in your yard. This common mushroom, with its deep orange shades, has a broadly convex round, indented cap, bright yellowish-orange to brownish-orange color, gills running the length of its tapering stem, and pale orange flesh.

The Jack O’Lantern is a relatively large, brightly colored orange mushroom. Its cap measures 1.5” to 4.7” (4 – 12 cm) wide, and its thick, orange stem is 1.3” to 3.5” (4.3 – 9 cm) tall. Apart from growing in your yard, this orange mushroom commonly grows at the base of tree stumps and roots.

This poisonous orange mushroom is a dangerous look alike to chanterelle mushrooms.

Orange mushroom identification

The jack-o’lantern mushroom is identified by its orange color, brownish-orange cap, and fluted gills tapering down the stem. In addition, this glow-in-the-dark mushroom is bioluminescent with a bluish-green color.

Chanterelle Mushrooms

Chanterelle mushrooms are medium orange to yellow edible mushrooms with a broadly flat, convex orange cap. Identifying features of orange chanterelles are the slightly depressed cap’s center, false gills under the cap, and pale yellowish flesh. Some species of chanterelle are red-orange to deep red, like the red chanterelle.

Pale yellowish-orange chanterelles have a distinct vase shape. The tasty mushrooms grow 1.5” to 2.3” (4 – 6 cm) tall, and their cap is 1.1” to 4” (3 – 10 cm) wide. Chanterelles are common throughout North America. You will typically find orange chanterelle mushrooms in coniferous forest floors and shaded areas.

Orange mushroom identification

Chanterelle mushrooms are easy to spot due to their yellow-orange color, tapering long stem, and tiny black scales on the cap.

Orange Fly Agaric (Amanita muscaria var. guessowii)

The orange fly agaric is a highly poisonous mushroom with a cylindrical white stem, orange cap, and white warty growths. The large orange cap can be umbrella-shaped or like a flattened disc. This orange-red mushroom also has a variation of a bright red and white toadstool, the red fly agaric.

The orange fly agaric has a large cap 2.7” to 8.2” (7 – 21 cm) across, and the large orange mushroom grows 2.7” to 7” (7 – 18 cm) tall. Sometimes growing in lawns in shaded, sheltered locations, the orange mushroom is typically found near birch trees or in coniferous woodlands.

Orange mushroom identification

The orange fly agaric has a rounded orange cap covered in small bumpy white growths. It’s got white flesh, white gills, and a distinctive orange-red cap.

Orange Peel Fungus (Aleuria aurantia)

The cup-shaped orange peel fungus is a brilliant orange mushroom with a distinctive crinkled appearance. This common orange lawn fungus is distinguished by its wavy, smooth, bright orange cap that looks like a large slice of orange peel curled on its side. In addition, the irregularly shaped fungus has a fuzzy underside.

The fruiting body of this unusual stemless orange fungus grows 0.6” to 2.7” (1.5 – 7 cm) across. You can often find this vibrant orange mushroom in grassy areas, trails, and residential yards.

Orange mushroom identification

The distinctive orange peel fungus has a unique cupped shape, sometimes with a split down one side. As the mushroom matures, it becomes more flattened.

The Orange Bonnet Mushroom (Mycena acicula)

The orange bonnet is an orange mushroom that grows in dense clusters. It is recognized by its slender, curving stem and bell-shaped cap. The rounded, bright orange cap develops a conical shape as it grows. Under the bell-like cap are closely spaced orange gills with red-orange margins. The sticky orange mushroom also has dense hairs at its base.

The cluster-forming orange mushrooms grow 1.1” to 2.7” (3 – 7 cm) long with wiry stems a few millimeters thick. The small, slimy orange caps measure between 0.39” to 1.5” (1 – 4 cm) wide with a somewhat rounded, conical appearance. The clusters of orange mushrooms are found on the floor of deciduous forests.

Orange mushroom identification

The tiny orange mushrooms have dull orange caps on top of slender yellowish-green stems with bright orange gills underneath the cap.

Goblet Waxcap (Hygrocybe cantharellus)

The goblet waxcap is a small bright orange mushroom with a long, slender orange stem, a round orange cap with in-rolled margins, and attractive white to yellowish-white gills underneath. Other identifying features of the orange mushroom are its sticky feel, bright orange cap with a scalloped margin, and yellow-orange flesh.

The tiny goblet waxcap mushroom grows 1.1” to 2.75” long, and (3 – 7 cm) its small disc-like orange cap is 0.2” to 0.78” (0.6 – 2 cm) across. The orangish mushrooms grow in loose clusters near hardwood trees in deciduous woodlands and sometimes in lawns.

Orange mushroom identification

Identifying features of the goblet waxcap are its long, slender stem, white gills, and broadly convex and scalloped cap that is sticky to the touch.

Red Pine Mushroom (Lactarius deliciosus)

The red pine mushroom is a robust, vase-shaped fungus with a carrot-orange cap that has a sticky feel when wet. The orange mushroom is relatively stout, with noticeable pale orange gills tapering down the stem. When fresh, the fungus secretes an orange-red sticky liquid. After handling, the mushroom develops greenish stains.

Also called the saffron milk cap due to the latex-like orange liquid it emits, the red pine squat mushroom grows 1” to 3” (3 – 8 cm) tall and 1.5” to 5.5” (4 to 14 cm) across. As its name suggests, the orange mushroom is commonly found in coniferous forests near pine trees.

Orange mushroom identification

The short, stumpy orange pine mushroom is identified by its vase-shaped appearance, mottled patterns, and evenly-spaced yellow gills.

Bradleys Mushroom (Lactarius volemus)

Bradleys mushroom is a type of edible orange mushroom with an inward turning, burnt orange round cap, bright yellow gills, and a thick, tubular stem. The orange mushroom typically grows solitary. Other features of the orangish-brown mushroom are the milky-white sap, tapering gills, and white flesh that stains brown.

Bradleys mushroom grows 2” to 4” (5 – 10 cm) tall, and its large disc-shaped cap with tapering gills are 1.1” to 5.1” (3 – 13 cm) in diameter.

Orange mushroom identification

The Bradleys mushroom is identified by its apricot to tawny colored cap that can sometimes be dark brownish-red. However, this orange mushroom is mostly noted for its stinky fish odor and the copious milky white sap it exudes when cut.

Woolly Chanterelle (Turbinellus floccosus)

The unmistakable woolly chanterelle is a vase-shaped, fleshy orange mushroom with a dark orange to brown upper surface and bright white gills on the underside. The fruiting body develops into a trumpet shape as it grows near conifer trees. The mushroom’s flesh is fibrous and easily discolors with brown patches.

The distinctive woolly chanterelle is a tall orange mushroom that can grow 12” (30 cm) tall and wide. The wide top and tapered gills with their pale buff to whitish or yellowish ridged appearance make it easy to spot.

Orange mushroom identification

The woolly chanterelle is easily recognizable by its cylindrical vase-shaped appearance, thick, fibrous flesh, and shades of deep red to yellowish-orange.

Jackson’s Slender Amanita (Amanita jacksonii)

The Jackson’s slender amanita is a relatively large orange mushroom with a tall, cigar-shaped stem and deep orange convex or umbrella-shaped cap. The distinctive features of this wild orange mushroom are its yellow stems, yellowish gills, and bright orangey-red appearance. In addition, the mushroom has a smooth, sticky feel to the cap.

The Jackson’s slender amanita grows 3.5” to 6” (9 – 15 cm) tall, and its cap is 2” to 4.7” (5 – 12 cm) across. This edible orange mushroom is easily confused with poisonous mushrooms like the fly amanita.

Orange mushroom identification

The identifying features of the Jackson’s slender amanita are its tacky, orangey-red convex cap, yellowish gills, and slender yellow cylindrical erect stem.

Chicken of the Woods Mushrooms (Laetiporus sulphureus)

Chicken of the woods is a type of cluster-forming orange fungus that creates shelf-like, overlapping growths on trees. This parasitic golden yellow or orange fungus looks like fan-shaped shelves on a rotting tree trunk. Fresh fungi emit a strong, earthy aroma and exude a pale transparent yellow liquid.

The shelf-like structures of this common woodland fungus measure between 2” and 24” (5 – 60 cm) and up to 1.5” (4 cm) thick. Because of the clumping nature, the large yellowish-orange fungus can become huge orange growths. Additionally, the parasitic fungus kills the host tree long before the edible, yellow-pored fungus appears.

Orange mushroom identification

The easy-to-identify chicken of the woods has large golden orange shelf-like structures attached to dead oak tree trunks. Other common names for the orange fungus are sulphur shelf, crab of the woods, and sulphur polypore.

The Golden Trumpet (Xeromphalina Campanella)

The golden trumpet mushroom is a small rusty brown to dark orange mushroom growing in dense clusters. This orange mushroom is identified by its umbrella-shaped cap, thin dark orange stem, and pale orange gills. As the tiny mushroom matures, the bell-shaped caps grow upward, creating a distinctive vase shape.

The tiny orange mushrooms measure 0.6” to 1.1” tall (1.5 – 3 cm), and their yellowish-orange caps are 0.2” to 1” (0.5 – 2 cm) across. You can typically find clusters of these orange mushrooms growing on fallen logs and old tree stumps of old conifers.

Also called the bell omphalina or golden trumpet, these moisture-loving fungi grow throughout the year.

Orange mushroom identification

The golden trumpet mushroom is a small bunching orange mushroom species, identified by its umbrella-like cap that eventually grows into a funnel shape.

Conical Waxy Cap (Hygrocybe conica)

The conical waxy cap is a small orange-topped or red-capped mushroom with a pointed sticky cap, erect yellow-orange stem, and white or orange-red gills. The orange-red mushroom caps emerge sharply conical and gradually flatten to a broadly convex shape with a pointed tip in the middle.

Also called the witch’s hat due to the cap’s shape, this orange conical waxy cap measures 1.18” to 3.14” (3 – 8 cm) tall, and the cap is 0.39” to 1.5” (1 – 4 cm) across. You will often find these pretty orangish mushrooms growing under oaks in woodlands.

Orange mushroom identification

The conical waxy cap mushroom has a distinctive broad cap with wavy margins and a pointed center.

Lobster Mushroom (Hypomyces lactifluorum)

The lobster mushroom is a parasitic type of fungus, not an actual mushroom. The fungus attaches itself to certain mushroom species, turning them a reddish-orange color. This gives the affected fungi a distinct cooked lobster coloration. As the parasitic fungus grows, it distorts the shape of the host mushroom, creating a tough, bright orange outer skin.

The size of lobster mushrooms depends on the size of the host mushroom. Lobster mushrooms are edible fungi and are sold commercially in some grocery stores. Their seafood-like flavor and dense texture make them a delicacy.

Orange mushroom identification

The identification features of a lobster mushroom are its bright reddish-orange coloring and hard surface dotted with tiny white pimples.

Learn how to identity common types of yard mushrooms.

Related articles:

  • Types of Red Mushrooms – Identification Guide
  • Types of Edible Mushrooms

11 Deer Resistant Herbs To Plant This Season

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Hungry deer can wreak havoc on any garden. They can stomp, chew, poop, and destroy all those precious herbs you worked so hard to prepare. If you live near a forest or large stretches of land, you either have to invest in quality fencing or plant herbs that deer will avoid. It seems like deer will eat just about anything, but there are some plants that they don’t mess with.

Generally, deer avoid most herbs that have a strong flavor, aromatic foliage, silvery-gray color, and/or spiky or poorly textured leaves. This includes rosemary, lavender, thyme, sage, oregano, and tarragon. The essential oils of herbs throw off the olfactory system of the deer and send them looking for other food sources.

However, contrary to popular belief, not all herbs are deer resistant. Deer will sometimes munch on basil and parsley if they don’t have any other green leaves available. Let’s take a deeper look at some of the top herbs that deer will avoid!

Lavender

Shrub of lavender growing with purple flowers. There are many blossoms coming off the stalks of each stem.
Lavender has a powerful aroma and is naturally deer-resistant.

Thanks to its powerful aroma, lavender is a naturally deer-resistant plant. Even when it isn’t flowering, the foliage of lavender has a pungent smell that deer do not like.

Deer don’t usually eat lavender due to a terpene called linalool that makes the lavender taste too strong for their liking. This essential oil is also found in many of the Mediterranean herbs below, including oregano and thyme.

Plant lavender along the margins of your vegetable garden as a companion plant. The camphorous smell of the leaves and the floral aroma of the blooms can help deter deer (and other pests) from eating your crops while simultaneously attracting beneficial insects.

Rosemary

Rosemary growing between rocks in the garden. There are other shrubs growing behind the rosemary bush and rocks at the base.
This hardy shrub will keep deer away.

Another drought-tolerant Mediterranean favorite, rosemary is repulsive to deer. The potent aroma of rosemary can help mask the smell of other plants they may be seeking, like your freshly-sown lettuce or fruiting tomatoes. Deer also dislike rubbing against the rosemary plant because of the essential oils that can rub off on their fur.

Like lavender, you can plant rosemary around the perimeter of your garden as a “deer shield.” It also works great when placed near the entry gates to your property or anywhere you suspect deer are regularly passing through.

Sage

Sage growing with a silvery sheen to the leaves. There are many stems with dozens of leaves visible up close.
Garden sage is a natural deer repellent.

Sage plants are among the most popular deer-resistant ornamentals because they offer a diversity of floral colors along the margin of a woodland. This popular herb is actually part of the Salvia genus, which includes hundreds of varieties.

From white sage to Russian sage to blue sage, all of these shrubs produce beautiful booms and aromatic leaves that repel deer. As a bonus, the leaves have a wooly or fuzzy leaf texture that hungry deer do not want in their mouths.

Oregano

Oregano growing in an herb garden and is healthy ready for harvest. The plant is growing in bunches next to one another in a small clump.
The essential oils in the oregano plant will help keep deer away.

Oregano contains two strong essential oils called carvacrol and thymol. When the fragrance of this herb hits a deer’s nose, it often sends them off in the other direction. Like rosemary, deer really hate rubbing up against oregano or stepping on it.

Thanks to its insect-repellent properties, oregano also makes an excellent vegetable companion plant. It doesn’t mind partial shade and can be interspersed in a drought-tolerant garden alongside the Mediterranean herbs described above.

Thyme

Thyme plant in the garden. It is blossoming at the top of the plant with purple flowers in the springtime. There are rocks in the background blurred out.
This low-maintenance herb can thrive in just about any type of soil.

Thyme is an extremely low-maintenance herb that thrives in poor soils without much fertility or water. As an herbaceous perennial deer barrier, thyme’s fragrant leaves are not appetizing to deer. When blooming, the strong smell of the flowers can also repel deer.

Use creeping thyme as a ground cover around your garden beds and it may prevent deer from walking in.

Lemon Balm

Lemon Balm growing with vibrant green leaves. There are many leaves clustered together during the spring growth season.
Lemon Balm has many uses in the garden and will help keep deer away.

Known for its delicious tea-making capacity, lemon balm is not quite so tasty to deer. The animals have an aversion to the fragrant leaves and flowers of this herb.

Lemon balm is a perfect low-growing border plant to keep deer out of your garden. However, it can be slightly invasive in some regions, so plant wisely.

Mint

Mint plant growing low to the ground. The plant is healthy and ready to be harvested. There is dirt visible under the plant at the base.
Mint is another herb with a pungent smell.

You will notice that all of the above herbs belong to the mint family (Lamiaceae). Mint and its relatives are the backbone of a deer-resistant herb garden.

Peppermint, spearmint, pennyroyal, ginger mint, and any other variety of mint can easily be added to the blend to add olfactory shock value to your local deer noses.

Grow mint in great abundance around the borders of your garden, but avoid planting it in your garden beds. Mint is a natural spreader that can out-compete your vegetables. However, it makes great ground cover in moist, partially shaded soils along a forest or grassland border.

Chives

Chives growing with purple flowers on top. The garden bed is made of dark brown wood and has several plants growing inside of it.
Chives have a strong smell and can help keep deer out of your garden.

The evergreen, herbal, and floral fragrances of mint-family herbs aren’t the only smells that deter deer. Chives are a perennial onion-family (Amaryllidaceae or “alliums”) herb that turns away deer as well as aphids and Japanese beetles.

Because of the strong taste and onion-y smell of chives, you can reliably plant them out in the open. They make a delicious garnish for meals and a low-maintenance, cold-tolerant ornamental.

Be sure to plant perennial chives, not annual green onions. Both are deer-resistant, but the perennial chives will grow as a clump that comes back year after year.

Dill

Dill with yellow flowers growing in garden. There are many small yellow flowers in full bloom atop of the stalks of the dill plant.
Dill has a strong aroma and taste, which help to repel deer.

Any gardener who loves pickles needs to have a self-seeding dill patch. This resilient herb is smelly and strong tasting, which makes it yet another deer-deterrent.

Sometimes known as dill weed, both blue-green foliage and yellow umbel flowers of dill have a distinctive fragrance. The plant can naturally spread into small patches and remains biennial in zones 2-8.

You can grow dill in your annual garden beds or alongside perennial herbs. While you repel deer, you also get yummy pickle flavoring!

Horseradish

Horseradish growing in garden on the ground in moist soil. The soil is rich and fertile, and the plant is ready for harvest.
Horseradish has a spicy smell, which will keep deer way.

Deer avoid horseradish at all costs. The spicy aroma of this perennial Brassica keeps most pests away. The large bushes look like weedy dock plants but smell strongly of mustards. Deer avoid the foliage as well as the spicy roots.

Tarragon

Tarragon growing in garden on the ground of an herb garden. The plant is growing and has many green leaves shooting off each stem.
Tarragon has a distinctive smell that deer will stay away from.

Whether it’s Mexican or French tarragon, this herb has a distinctive anise smell that deer strongly dislike. They tend to avoid eating or stepping on the plant.

These 18-36” bushes can be grown as perennials in zones 4 and warmer. The licorice flavor is surprisingly delicious as a garnish on chicken, fish, or vegetables. Thankfully, deer don’t find it nearly as appetizing as we do.

If you have pets, keep in mind that tarragon oils can be toxic to dogs, cats, and horses. Most animals avoid the plant anyways.

The Best 12 Gauge Ammo for Home Defense

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The Best 12 Gauge Ammo for Home Defense

I’ve always said a shotgun is the best home defense firearm because of its reduced risk of over-penetration, increased stopping power, and accuracy.

However, much depends on the shotshells you load into your gun for personal defense. Various projectiles and brands have different ballistics.

Deciphering all this information is time-consuming and confusing because we’re not constantly comparing apples to apples.

Lucky for you, I have spent many hours researching and testing the best 12 gauge ammo for home defense.

As you keep scrolling, you’ll discover my findings!

Best Shotgun Ammo for Home Defense

Federal LE FliteControl 00 Buck

Specs

Muzzle Velocity: 1,325 fps

Projectile: #00 Buckshot

Shell Length: 2 3/4″

Pros

  • Trusted brand
  • FliteControl wad
  • Designed with law enforcement in mind
  • Works in all shotgun types

Cons

  • It needs a unique choke tube
  • Expensive

Why We Chose It

Federal Premium is an ammunition manufacturer trusted by countless shooters, hunters, and law enforcement agencies.

They’ve gained a positive reputation through years of crafting high-quality ammo and exploring new ammunition technologies.

The FliteControl wad is unlike traditional wads because it acts similarly to a sabot for a slug. The FliteControl wad holds the pattern tighter for longer distances, which increases the rounds effective range.

This shotgun load was designed with law enforcement agencies in mind, which means you can trust it to be very effective in close quarters, as such is the case with home defense situations.

However, there are a couple of drawbacks to this load.

The first is it needs a special choke. Due to the unique wad, it doesn’t perform well with most choke tubes. Luckily, many choke manufacturers, such as Carlson’s and Patternmaster, make the needed choke tube.

The second drawback is the price. These rounds are not cheap, but when protecting my family and myself, the price is the least of my worries.

In my opinion, these drawbacks are minimal when you understand the increased performance you’re gaining from the flight control aspects of the wad and functionality in any type of shotgun.

Honorable Mentions

Rio Ammunition 00 Buck is worth mentioning as a viable buckshot round contender. As a brand, Rio is often less expensive than other brands, which is also the case in this instance.

Yet, just because you’re not paying as much doesn’t mean you’re losing terminal performance or quality, as it reliably works in pump-action and semi-auto shotguns.

The main downsides are these rounds have a rolled crimp, which means they are too long for shell carriers used in 3-gun competitions, and it also cuts down on the magazine capacity.

The other downside is that the wad doesn’t cover the shot, so your barrel will get dirty faster; but if you enjoy cleaning your guns, this isn’t a big deal.

Rio 00 Buckshot is reliable, has a good pattern, and is reasonably priced.

If you’re looking for a buckshot load with a few more pellets, check out Winchester Super-X 3-1/2″ 18 Pellets 00 Buckshot.

The longer shell has more room for the double-aught buckshot pellets and powder, so don’t expect this to be a low recoil 12 gauge ammo for home defense because it will kick much more than the 2 3/4″ shells.

Longer shells are always more expensive, so if you’re trying to be budget-friendly, I wouldn’t recommend choosing 3 1/2″ shells. However, these are worth looking into if you’re needed more knockdown power.

Searching for ammo with more knockdown power? Check out our Winchester 12 Gauge ammo or our Fiocchi 12 Gauge ammo page to get the best match for your needs.

Best Low Recoil 12-Gauge Ammo for Home Defense

Hornady American Gunner Reduced Recoil Rifled Slug

Specs

Muzzle Velocity: 1,300 fps

Muzzle Energy: 1,642 ft-lbs

Projectile: Rifled Slug

Shell Length: 2 3/4″

Pros

  • Trusted brand
  • Designed for reduction of recoil
  • Multiple uses

Cons

  • Expensive

Why We Chose It

Hornady is one of the most trusted brands for self-defense ammo, with choices like the Hornady Critical Defense for handguns. However, they didn’t stop with handgun ammo.

Hornady has successfully ventured into shotgun ammunition. The Hornady American Gunner Reduced Recoil Rifled Slug is perfect for those who find shotgun slugs uncomfortable to shoot because of all the recoil.

While you will sacrifice a little muzzle energy and velocity for reduced recoil, the slug won’t have any trouble penetrating the vital organs of bad guys.

The Hornady Reduced Recoil Rifled Slug is an excellent defense load, but it can double as a solid hunting slug at close range.

The biggest drawback is the price. Because they’re designed for defense purposes and they’re a reduced recoil load, they are expensive compared to other rifled slugs.

Honorable Mentions

The Federal Tactical Truball Low Recoil 2-3/4″ 1 oz is a cheaper option. Rifled Slug. Its ballistics are identical to the Hornady Reduced Recoil load but at half the price.

However, you must buy in bulk to get this price. The price doesn’t reflect the quality of these rounds, as law enforcement agencies trust these rounds in training and real-world situations daily.

Best One-Ounce Slug for Personal Defense

Federal Power Shok 1 oz. Rifled Slug

Specs

Muzzle Velocity: 1,610 fps

Muzzle Energy: 2,521 ft-lbs

Projectile: Rifled Slug

Shell Length: 2 3/4″

Pros

  • Trusted brand
  • Fast
  • Hard-hitting
  • Reasonably priced

Cons

  • Must buy in bulk to get the best deal
  • Will easily penetrate drywall

Why We Chose It

A rifled slug makes an excellent defense round because it is accurate and creates a big hole in the intruder. Pair that with Federal, one of the top ammo manufacturers in the world, and you have a high-quality round at a surprisingly affordable price.

These rifled slugs are more accurate at close and long range because the slug spins as it travels down the smoothbore shotgun barrel.

The one-ounce lead slug is sure to stop any threat; however, it will have a higher risk of over-penetration that you must keep in mind for the safety of your family and neighbors.

When you compare the velocity, muzzle energy, and price, these rounds are tough to beat.

Honorable Mentions

The Winchester Defender 1 oz. Segmented Rifled Slug will help you stop the threat with similar ballistics as the Federal Power Shok shotshells. So if you’re semi-auto or pump-action shotgun cycles Winchester shells better, you have a viable option.

However, these loads are more expensive due to the unique design of the segmenting slug. This slug breaks apart into three pieces once it hits cloth, which causes more wound channels and increased trauma.

Segmenting also reduces the risk of over-penetration.

For a round priced in between the two above, check out the Fiocchi 1 oz. Rifled Slug. The Aero Rifle Slug is designed as a self-defense shotshell for auto-loading shotguns. So if you’re a pump-action lover, this probably isn’t the round for you.

However, if you use a semi-auto shotgun as a defense gun, then the Fiocchi Aero Rifle Slug is one load you should consider.

Choosing the Best 12 Gauge Ammo for Home Defense

Once you’ve bought your home defense shotgun, it’s time to load it with the best home defense shotgun ammo, but how are you supposed to know which is the best when they all claim to be the best?

There’s no simple answer to the question: “what is the best 12 gauge ammo for home defense?” However, there are several factors to remember when buying ammo that will help you make the best decision possible.

Shotgun

Shotgun

Learning which brands and loads your shotgun likes best will take time and testing. However, if the need ever arises, you’ll be glad you took the time and spent the money to find the rounds that cycle and shoot best out of your shotgun.

Recoil

Self-defense loads are often hotter rounds, meaning they have more kick. I suggest finding a reduced recoil round if you’re sensitive to recoil.

Budget

Defense shotshells are often expensive due to the time and testing needed to perfect these loads before the manufacturers ship them to the public.

Since we’re on the subject of money, don’t miss out on our affordable Remington 12 Gauge Ammunition for more options.

I’m typically tight-fisted with my money; however, when protecting my family and myself, I’m willing to spend more to ensure I buy a high-quality product.

Ammo Types

The beauty of owning a shotgun is the wide variety of ammo types you can shoot from the same gun without changing anything except the shell.

This can also be a drawback because it’s difficult for beginners to understand the various shot sizes and types.

Once you understand the differences between the shotgun ammo types, choosing a self-defense shotshell becomes much more manageable.

Saving Money on the Best Home Defense Shotgun Ammo

Shotgun shells used for personal defense are expensive; however, there are several ways to save money.

Buying Bulk 12-Gauge Self-Defense Shotgun Shells

When you buy bulk 12-gauge ammo, sometimes you can save $0.15 per shotshell. This is a significant savings if you practice often and burn through ammo.

The amount of savings will depend on the brand and amount of ammo you purchase. Purchasing 250 rounds will save you more money per round than buying 20 shells at a time. However, buying 1,000 shotshells will give you more significant savings per round.

Reloading Shotshells

Shotgun shells are reloadable, which means there’s an opportunity to save money by reloading instead of buying factory ammo.

This costs more money upfront because you have to purchase the reloading equipment and supplies, but once that initial cost is over, the amount of money you save depends on the speed at which you can pump out shells.

If you can’t find the perfect home-defense round, you might try crafting your own by handloading.

To double up on your savings, try buying shotgun shells in bulk and then reloading them!

Standard 12-Gauge Shotgun Self-Defense Projectiles

As I mentioned earlier, there are various types of projectiles in shotgun shells. There are two primary types I consider home defense rounds and a third that can be used if it’s all you have on hand.

Buckshot

Buckshot

Buckshot is by far the best home defense load because it’s less likely to penetrate, you have multiple projectiles to increase your chances of hitting your target, and it’s reasonably priced.

There are different shot sizes of buckshot. Double aught or 00 Buck is most people’s preference; however, don’t be afraid to go with smaller pellets because there will be more per shell.

Slugs

You might be thinking, what do those little slimy creatures have to do with shotguns?

No? That’s just me?

Well, they don’t have anything to do with shotguns, but a rifled or sabot slug does, and they make good personal defense rounds.

A rifled slug has the rifling on the slug instead of the barrel. The rifling causes the slug to spin, making it more accurate.

The sabot slug has a plastic case or sabot around it that causes it to spin in a smoothbore shotgun; there’s much debate as to which slug is best, but many consider the sabot slug to be technologically superior.

Birdshot

Birdshot

Birdshot is not a recommended load for home defense; however, if it’s all you have, use it, especially if it’s a turkey load.

Birdshot has much smaller pellets than buckshot; therefore, it doesn’t have the same stopping power, but if you have a good choke that keeps a tight pattern, birdshot is deadly, especially at close range.

Shot size selection will be the primary determining factor of the knockdown power of birdshot. The smaller the number, the larger the pellets. For defense purposes, choose the smaller numbers or BB.

Parting Shots

Choosing the best 12-gauge ammo for home defense doesn’t have to be overly complicated. You should make an informed decision, which you’ve made by reading this article, but in the end, you should test out several different brands and projectiles to determine which you like best.

Stay safe!

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