The crayfish, crawdad, crawfish discussion is kind of like the creek, crick discussion — it comes down to regional preference. I’ve heard it all three ways but grew up saying crayfish.

The first time my dad took me to catch crayfish I was both nervous and enchanted by them. We rode our bikes from the home where I spent most of my childhood to the creek down the road. Under the bridge we lifted rocks to look for them, being careful not to stir the water so we could see them. And in one swift motion, dad grabbed them and lifted them up for me to inspect.

I remember asking if it hurt when they pinched his hands, but years of pouring concrete for a living had hardened them to the point the curious-looking creatures couldn’t even puncture his skin. I have been pinched and it’s uncomfortable, but not unbearable. My daughter, Vayda, has been pinched and it turned her off catching them with her hands for a long time. So we got a net.

Catching crayfish is kind of a summer tradition. The creek my dad took me to the first time now runs through his backyard and provides endless amusement. We catch tadpoles in the spring, largemouth bass and bluegill after a good rain and crayfish in the summer when the water is warmer.

Strategies to catch crayfish

Crayfish can be caught in freshwater lakes, ponds, rivers, creeks and streams. They are frequently found in habitats with slow-moving water and plenty of rocks and vegetation to provide cover.

They are easiest to find during the summer when water is warmer and most active at night because they are nocturnal. For these reasons, the best time to go crayfishing or set traps is near dusk.

Catching crayfish by hand. The best way to find crayfish is by lifting rocks in shallow areas of a creek or stream. You’ll need to be mindful of the way the water is flowing, lifting rocks into the current so the dust that gets stirred up by lifting the rock is carried out of your field of view. You also want to lift rocks slowly to avoid startling the crayfish underneath. Once you’ve located a crayfish, slowly reach your hand into the water, approaching from its tail. When you’re ready make one fluid motion to grab the crayfish’s body behind its claws to avoid getting pinched. You could also use a net to try scooping crayfish instead or to place it in front of the crayfish and attempt to get it to run in on its own by touching its tail.

Bait crayfishing. Another method you can try is by using a fishing pole and bait fishing with worms, fish parts or even a piece of hotdog or raw meat. Attach the bait to the pole by tying a fishing hook or safety pin on the end of your line and placing the bait on it. Lower the bait into the water and slowly wiggle it until you feel or see a crayfish grab hold. Then slowly pull it towards the shore. If you are close enough to see the crayfish attached to the bait, you can try scooping it up with a net.

Using traps. You can catch crayfish in larger quantities by using traps. Open traps are collapsible nets that are open at one end. Closed traps are a little more intricate with a funnel at one end to prevent crayfish from escaping. Open traps can be placed out for several hours with enough bait. Closed traps can be left overnight. Some traps are baited utilizing a hook that hangs in the center and others use bait boxes or bait jars. Traps should be no larger than three feet in height, width and depth. Cylindrical-, beehive- and cone-shaped traps are preferred to square-shaped traps.

Crayfishing regulations

Many states require a fishing license to catch crayfish in public waters. In Ohio, you need a fishing license to catch crayfish in state waters. Additionally, it is unlawful for any person except licensed bait dealers to possess more than 100 crayfish or a combination of crayfish, minnows and other baitfish that exceeds 500. Additionally, a bait dealer’s permit is required of persons buying or selling minnows, crayfish and hellgrammites.

Some states also have restrictions on transporting crayfish because some species are considered invasive. Make sure to check the guidelines in your state before you go crayfishing.

Resources

• Ohio Department of Natural Resources

At some point in our lives, we’ve all probably dreamt about doing an out of state hunt of a lifetime. The call to adventure in a new place, maybe even chasing an animal you’ve never hunted before – it’s a really exciting idea. So why don’t more of us actually do it? Fear of the unknown? Maybe you’re not sure where to even begin? In this article, I will talk about planning a DIY hunt, including all the little details you might not think about. If you do your first trip the right way, we can guarantee it won’t be your last. Let’s dive into this DIY hunting guide so you can start planning!

Research, Research, and More Research

Planning a DIY hunt doesn’t always have to be expensive, but it certainly can be. After all, you may be traveling many states away and non-resident hunting licenses can be costly all on their own. So before you spend all that hard earned cash and invest your precious time, do yourself a favor and do some homework.

Start by deciding on these factors:

• What – what species do you want to hunt?
• Where – where would you like to hunt, what is the ideal setting for your picture perfect DIY hunt?
• How – Will your hunt be a bow or gun hunt, over the counter tag (OTC) or through an outfitter?

Search online for terms like “best DIY whitetail states” or “best states for whitetail deer hunting” (use whatever animal you’d like to hunt). You can quickly find some of the best areas for public land deer hunting and start developing your list of possibilities.

Those of us who like to hunt DIY are often opposed to looking at Outfitters. Don’t dismiss this opportunity. There are many out there who work will do drop camps or even work with landowners to offer a self-guided hunt with a trespass fee. Both of these options will allow you to do a DIY hunt, but can make the learning curve less steep and can actually cost you less money in the long run. They can often provide gear that you may otherwise have to buy and get you in an area where there may be less hunting pressure than trying to figure that out on your own. This can be a great way to learn an area and a species with potentially better success that starting from scratch on your own.

Sources for Help

There are many different resources for you, some free and some for an annual subscription. Some of the subscriptions I have used and are familiar with are Eastman’s, both Bow Hunting and Hunting Journals. These magazines give you access to the Member Research Section (MRS). This not only gives you access to the deadlines, but also rankings of units within a state for a variety of species, including the type of terrain and the amount of public vs. private land in those units.

Worldwide Trophy Adventures (WTA), formerly Cabela’s TAGS, is a service that can help you with your applications as well as front your application fees, for a small fee on each application. You only pay them for the tag if you draw.

The Huntin’ Fool is another great tool. They offer a magazine as well as access to a data base of North America’s premier outfitters and an application service as well. A new service that I haven’t used is Rolling Bones Outfitters. They are coming out with a new magazine, “Hunt The West” and appear to provide a lot of good information, although most of it appears to be through outfitters they have vetted.

There are also numerous websites, DIY blogs, and forums that can give you access to information, but be careful with some of the information gathered here. Trust but verify! I have personally harnessed a lot of good information in blogs like this on purehunting.com, as well as my YouTube Channel. With 6 full seasons of DIY Hunting as well as DIY tips and tactics, the channel is a great resource for DIY Hunting!

DIY Hunt By Species

Here is a list of the most popular DIY western hunting adventure species. These species are listed in order of how popular they are but also ranked easiest to hardest in terms of getting tag/having a successful hunt.

Pronghorn

States to look at: Wyoming, Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona, Montana

• Helpful Notes: A few states are pretty easy to draw or have OTC options, especially for archery tags. There are opportunities in some states, like New Mexico, to purchase a landowner tag. I have used this option two times and have had a great hunt for a nominal fee. DIY Pronghorn Hunting Tips Here.

Mule Deer

States to look at: Colorado, Nevada, Wyoming, South Dakota

• Helpful Notes: South Dakota has some great options for hunting mule deer, both with a bow and rifle and although there isn’t a true OTC license, many areas require zero points to draw. There is quite a bit of walk in ground (private land open to the public) in the Western part of the state. If you know how to play the system, you can even have an opportunity at more than one tag in a season. DIY Mule Deer Hunting Tips Here.

Elk

States to look at: Colorado, Montana, Wyoming and New Mexico

Colorado has quite a few OTC licenses for archery and rifle and Montana’s general season tag can be an easy draw. The draw odds decrease for limited units in both states. Wyoming and New Mexico have more difficult draw odds.

• Helpful Notes: Colorado has the largest elk herd of any state. The state manages for quantity and not quality for the general areas. The limited draw areas have good quality but may take years if not decades to draw. DIY Elk Hunting Tips Here.

Moose

States to look at: Alaska

• Helpful Notes: Big Game Hunting in Alaska.

Caribou

States to look at: Alaska and Canada

• Helpful Notes: These tags, although not difficult to obtain, will cost you more than the average hunt, even for a DIY hunt because of the travel and out of state or country nature of these hunts. There are lots of opportunities and ways to hunt them, from a river float hunt, outfitter or transporter drop camp to driving the “Haul Road”. Big Game Hunting in Alaska.

Bighorn sheep

States to look at: Montana, Idaho, Colorado

• Helpful Notes: Unless you have a very deep checkbook, these tags are difficult to draw. You won’t even be eligible for a tag in Colorado until you have put in for 4 years. Montana and Idaho have a true lottery system so you have a chance in your first year. Montana does have some unlimited areas. You are guaranteed a tag but there is a small quota in each unit and once it’s met, the area is closed. You need to check your sheep within 48 hours and you need to check the quota status daily.

Mountain goat

States to look at: Colorado, Montana, Wyoming, Idaho

• Helpful Notes: Not many helpful hints here. These are difficult animals to draw tags for and it will more than likely take years to draw one for a DIY hunt. If this hunt is high on your bucket list, it may be worth saving up and going to British Columbia or Alaska and going with an Outfitter. DIY Mountain Goat Tips Here.

Bear

States to look at: Montana, Colorado, Wyoming, Idaho

Many of these states have OTC options

• Colorado does not have a spring bear season, just a fall season that starts on September 2nd. Most other states have a spring season and there are options for spot and stalk or sitting over a bait. Some parts of Idaho offer the opportunity for two bear tags in a season. DIY Bear Hunting Tips Here.

Applying for the Hunt

Depending on what states and what species you are wanting to hunt, you really need to dive into when the application deadlines are for the various states. The application deadlines start as early as December in the year prior to when you want to hunt in Alaska, through May. Some states, like Wyoming, have a different non-resident application deadline for elk than that for non-resident deer and pronghorn. Some states require that you pay the full amount of the tag with your application and you will receive a refund, less any fees, if you are unsuccessful. Others only charge an application fee and then will charge your credit card you have on file, if you are successful. Colorado just changed their procedure in 2018. Now you only need to pay a small application fee and don’t need to front the full license fee.

Hunting Regulations and Licenses

Next, it’s time to look at the hunting regulations and license types. It’s not always fun trying to understand a new state’s regulations and tag system, but this can make the difference between hunting next fall or waiting another year.

Maybe one of the states on your list provides over the counter tags for elk, but another state offers only a lottery system. There can be a difference of nearly $400 for out of state elk tags, so if you’re on a budget, this can be a deal breaker or limit your choices. Spend some time digesting the rules and don’t feel afraid to call their wildlife agency to clarify something if you’re confused. My experience has been that most are very willing to help and answer questions. Also, manage your expectations a bit when planning a DIY hunt. If you have never hunted elk before, don’t set unrealistic expectations of a 300 class 6 point for your first bull. Sure, that could happen, but enjoy the hunt and experience and gain knowledge and confidence for future elk hunts. If your bucket list state often takes several years to build preference points and ultimately draw a tag, you’d better get started sooner than later. Alternatively, look to another state that has similar hunting opportunities but a better chance at actually hunting this year.

Where to Hunt

After that step, you’ll need to find an actual place to hunt. While many states (especially western ones) are blessed with lots of public lands, that’s not the case everywhere. And even if there are abundant public lands, it can be a real zoo of other blaze orange hunters during certain seasons. Fortunately, there are ways around these problems.

One way to escape hunting pressure is to simply choose a different season than most others do. For example, firearm seasons tend to be short-lived and full of lots of hunters. But a DIY archery elk hunt (and archery seasons in general) tend to run longer and aren’t always as popular, which may give you a little breathing room. If your schedule allows, you may want to avoid weekends when there are likely to be more hunters out than on a week day. Also avoiding opening weekend can have benefits. You may miss the proverbial first kick and the cat, but there are usually fewer hunters in the field after the opening weekend.

Another way to avoid crowds is to seek out hard-to-access places. The simple truth is that some hunters will choose the easiest option, for any number of reasons. So if you can find a backcountry setting with no vehicle access or a place that’s full of steep topography, you may just be able to have that spot to yourself, at least for a while. Think about hunting right off a main road versus backpack elk hunting – not only are you going to have a better chance at solo hunting with the backpacking option, but it will be much more of an adventure too, which is probably at least one of your reasons for planning a DIY hunt.

Planning Ahead

After you’ve done your research, decided on a place, and bought your license and tags, it’s time to kick it up a notch. This is the time to get really serious because the effort you put in this stage will help shape how successful your hunt is.

Hunting Trip Checklist

Deciding what to take on a hunting trip can be a little tricky sometimes. You don’t want to bring too much stuff and be overloaded, but you don’t want to leave anything behind either. Though many people don’t do it, keeping a simple checklist of the hunting gear you’re going to bring on your trip can save you lots of heartache later on. Imagine arriving at your destination and only then finding out you forgot your quiver of arrows or your best hunting knife. Develop a hunting checklist and check it twice before you even think about leaving home. If you’re hunting with a buddy, or several friends, compare your lists. There are lots of things you will only need one of but would hate to have none if you all forget that one item. If you are going on a backcountry hunt where you will be gone several days, but are driving there, you can take more gear than you need and leave it in your truck, taking only the necessities into the backcountry.

The List of my Usual Hunting Gear and other tools looks like this for most DIY hunting:

• Hoyt Carbon Defiant bow
• Hoyt Carbon Defiant bow
• Gold Tip Hunter 340 arrows
• Razor-Tip Broadhead
• Nock Out lighted nocks
• Hamskea Hybrid Hunter rest
• Spot Hogg Fast Eddie sight
• Spot Hogg Whipper Snapper release
• Browning Shotgun/Rifle
• Browning ammo
• Tenzing TZ6000 pack
• Foxpro Calls
• Heads Up decoy
• Mountain house dinners
• Nite Ize – headlamp and flashlights, S-biners, Gear Ties
• OnXMaps – GPS chips and phone app
• Thorogood boots
• Browning Hell’s Canyon “Speed” clothing
• Somerset pop up camping trailer (if applicable)
• Kuiu sleeping bag
• Outdoor Edge knives
• Vortex Optics
• Marsupial gear optics harness
• Wilderness Athlete – Energy and Focus, Hydrate and Recovery, and meal replacement shakes
• Siberian Coolers

Physical Preparation

During your research phase, you picked out a few hunting locations you’d like to focus on. Keep a few places in your back pocket in case one doesn’t work out. Study these areas on Google Earth®, OnXMaps or other satellite imagery. In many cases, the topography and terrain will be different from what you’re used to. And if you’re planning on backcountry hunting or going hunting by yourself, you’ll have a lot of work to do. That means you need to be physically capable of actually packing an animal out and mentally strong enough to persist through the challenges you could face.

Well before a DIY elk hunt or DIY mule deer hunt, you should strengthen your cardiovascular system and muscles by running, backpacking, or hill climbing. There are lots of great hunting workouts you could use, especially if you try to relate the exercise to the actual hunt. Put yourself in uncomfortable outdoor situations and develop the tenacity to push through it. Practice shooting your bow or gun with a slightly elevated heart rate. If you don’t prepare like this, you could find out that your dream hunt turns into a nightmare that will haunt you forever. Wouldn’t you rather actually enjoy your time off?

Here is a complete blog and video series of different hunting workouts to focus on for western and DIY hunting.

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The End Game

Let’s say you’ve been planning a DIY hunt for months and suddenly your plan comes together. Just like that, you’ve arrowed a huge elk up on top of a mountain. There’s the euphoria and excitement of it all. But then reality hits: how are you getting it home? Decide ahead of time how you will logistically tackle something like this.

First, research how to quarter an animal if you’re hunting a large species. Learn how to do the “gutless method” of quartering. Bring game bags with you to place the quarters in to avoid flies and dirt from touching the meat. Another tip is to pack a can of black pepper. Spreading this on the exposed meat will deter bugs from landing on the meat. If you’re hunting deer or smaller animals, you can often carry or drag them, or use game carts in less rugged places. Make sure you bring enough coolers with ample ice to keep your wild game meat cold and fresh. The absolute worst way to end such an epic adventure is to have your meat spoil because you didn’t plan ahead.

Hopefully you can see that planning a DIY hunt isn’t all that complicated. It does take work – no doubt about that. But if you feel that yearning to try a new adventure, pursue it now. Don’t wait any longer.

A tiny fraction of whitetail hunters have taken a buck that scores over 170 typical or 195 nontypical, the minimums for entry into the Boone & Crockett record book. Many hunters feel like it’s just a stroke of luck to have a buck that size walk by, and many times it is. But that doesn’t explain why some hunters kill them with a shocking degree of regularity.

Several hunters have killed multiple B&C bucks over the years, which proves that they are probably doing things a little different than you and I are when you take to the whitetail woods. In talking to them, I have come up with a list if six things they’re doing that you’re probably not doing.

You’re Not Hunting Where They Live

This may seem obvious, but you have to hunt where there are. You don’t have to live there, but if you don’t have Booners where you live you must travel (or move.) Tim Young packed up and moved to Iowa and has shot two giants there and one on a roadtrip to Kentucky. Rod Owen, Adam Hays, Stan Potts and Ben Rising travel extensively to find and shoot big bucks in states other than their own.

“You have to find them first,” says Adam Hays, who has taken nine Booners including four over 200 inches. “Your best bet for finding a giant will be near sanctuaries where there is no or very limited hunting. These areas will be close to city limits, parks, industrial zones, wildlife refuges and even large tracts of land that allow no hunting. Hunting a specific animal will make you hunt harder and smarter also, just knowing he’s there!”

Rod Owen agrees.

“Killing a Booner isn’t the hardest part, the hardest part is finding one.”

Ben Rising has shot four Booners in the last two years. He says he often spends more time looking for a buck and getting access to hunt where the buck lives than actually hunting him.

You Don’t Understand How Fickle They Can Be

You can’t take chances with human intrusion, checking scouting cameras too often, or hunting in the wrong winds. To shoot a Booner you must do everything right, and get lucky, too. Patience is the key. Rod Owen tells about how he waited weeks for the perfect conditions to hunt a giant buck, but the wind switched so he literally got out of the stand and RAN all the way back to his truck.

“People go overboard trying to get intel on these big bucks and end up hurting themselves in the long run,” according to Ben Rising. They “dig too deep” he says, risking alerting the deer that he’s being hunted.

According to Adam Hays, patience is the #1 key.

“Sometimes the most difficult part of hunting a big buck is actually not hunting him at all,” he says. “having the patience and the discipline to wait until everything is perfect before diving in for the kill.”

You’re Not Willing To Do Whatever It Takes

You are spending your time watching Monday Night Football, you’re hanging out with buddies, you’re fishing when the big buck killers are scouting. The hunters who shoot Booners make sacrifices, and they are consumed by the pursuit and learning everything they can about the deer and the land they inhabit. The drive to shoot giant deer is at a level far above the average deer hunter.

“There are hunters and there are killers,” says Rising. “The drive has to be far greater if you are going to consistently kill big ones.”

With his truck stuck in a snowdrift, Steve Niemerg waited out a blizzard in a farmer’s house for two days, then instead of going home when the blizzard quit, he went hunting and killed a giant Booner that very evening.

You’re Not Hunting During the Peak Times

There are a few specific short periods each year when most Booners are shot. Hays is a big believer in the moon’s position as an influence of big buck movement. Rising says that waiting for the right moment is key.

Hays also claims that a wind that’s good for the buck and bad for you can be the best time to hunt.

“For me, the Holy Grail of whitetail hunting is finding a big buck’s weak spot, somewhere along his travel pattern where you can get within bow range of him while he’s using the wind to his advantage”

When a peak time arrives, you must put the rest of your life on hold. You might be surprised to discover that most of these true giants were not shot during the rut. Most big buck killers agree that they prefer to kill Booners before the chaos of the rut arrives and the deer are in more predictable patterns.

You’re Not Passing On Big Bucks

Those 170 and 180 bucks were once 150 bucks. If you can’t pass up a 4-year-old 150, you will probably never shoot a 6-year-old 180. A friend in southern Iowa who owns a large farm told me he kicked a guy out of their hunting group because he wouldn’t pass up the 4-year-olds that most people would drool over.

“People like Adam [Hays] and I have learned not to smoke the tag on the first 4-year-old 160 that comes by,” says Rising. “We only have one tag in Ohio.”

That’s a tough hurdle for most hunters to get over. If you are happy with a 150-160 then so be it, but if you want to kill bucks approaching 200, you will have to let them walk.

You’re Taking Shortcuts

Most hunters rely too much on gimmicks and don’t go to the extremes necessary. You aren’t choosing your entry and exit routes wisely enough, and you aren’t using discipline to wait for perfect conditions. These big buck killers are scent control fanatics, but they don’t use that as an excuse to take shortcuts with the wind. Scent control is an honorable goal, but the belief that you can totally eliminate your scent and ignore good woodsmanship is a ticket to forkhorn land.

Hanging a treestand during the rain, letting those cameras sit for weeks and only checking them with the right wind, having the patience to wait until everything is right — these are the characteristics of a person who kills Booners. Hunting mature bucks is all about strategic moves at the right time in the right place. There are no shortcuts, you must make every move with precision.

Orcas are extremely fascinating large black and white mammals who rule any body of water they live in. You may have heard about Orcas attacking other animals and even occasionally humans — so you may be curious about how much damage their bite can actually do.

Orcas have an estimated bite force of 19,000 PSI which means they are at the top of the ocean food chain and can take down anything that comes into its path. However, although Orcas spend most of their time hunting for food, they are not typically overly aggressive mammals and won’t generally bother with some other types of sea creatures.

In the wild, Orcas live an average of 30 to 50 years — with female Orcas occasionally living up to 100 years old. In captivity, this number is much lower — Orcas typically only live about 17 to 29 years. And there are many more interesting facts about Orcas including how they use their teeth as well as how they compare to sharks and other animals.

How Strong Is An Orca’s Bite?

It’s difficult to get an exact measurement of how hard an orca can bite, but it’s estimated that its bite force is an incredible 19,000 PSI (Pounds per square inch). To put this into perspective, the dog with the highest bite force (the Kangal) has a bite force of 743 PSI. This bite force can vary depending on the size, age, and sex of the Orca doing the biting, as well as how it is measured.

How Sharp Are Orca’s Teeth?

The large teeth of an Orca are conical (cone-shaped) and interlocking. These teeth are very sharp however they are not meant to use to simply chew food — they’re meant to rip the food apart into smaller chunks the Orca can simply swallow.

How Many Teeth Does An Orca Whale Have?

Orcas have teeth lining both their upper and lower jaws — they have 48 to 52 teeth in total! Orcas have 10 – 14 large teeth on either side of their jaw on both the upper and lower jaws. Their teeth start to grow in when they are just a few weeks old and will have their complete set of full-grown teeth by the time they are about 11 or 12 weeks of age.

How Big Are Orca’s Teeth?

Orcas have 48 to 52 teeth and all of them grow to be about four inches long. They are quite sharp in addition to being large for their size.

Do Orcas Teeth Grow Back?

Orcas only get one set of teeth in their lifetime, so any teeth they happen to lose will not be replaced. Since their teeth are large and they have quite a strong base, they don’t lose them too easily. So, most Orcas will retain most of their teeth throughout their lifetime.

Orca Teeth vs Shark Teeth

Although they may seem similar, Orcas and Sharks are quite different, and one main difference is the number of teeth they have as well as how they use them.

Orca Teeth. Orcas have only one set of roughly 50 teeth and they use these sharp, strong teeth to rip their food apart before they swallow the chunks whole.

Shark Teeth. Sharks have many rows of teeth — so they can have a few hundred up to a few thousand teeth! Sharks continuously lose their teethby biting and chewing (losing around 100 teeth a day is not uncommon!) but there are always new teeth ready to replace them. Sharks use their triangular-shaped, razor-sharp teeth to kill, rip apart, and chew up their prey.

Are Killer Whales And Orcas The Same Thing?

Orcas are commonly referred to as killer whales and the names are often used interchangeably — even by marine experts.

However, killer whales are actually not whales at all! Killer whales are actually dolphins — in fact, they’re the largest member of the dolphin family. All whales, dolphins, and porpoises fall under the order of Cetacea. However, it’s the teeth of an Orca that makes them fall under the suborder called Odontoceti — which means toothed whale. This is one popular theory about why Orcas are referred to as killer whales.

Another popular theory about how Orcas became known as killer whales is that in the past whalers called Orcas “killers of whales” and the name eventually got shortened and it stuck.

Are Killer Whales Aggressive?

While killer whales can look very aggressive when it comes to finding and eating their prey, they don’t generally seek to harm humans on purpose. And the aggression they show is simply them tearing apart their food to feed themselves and the other Orcas in their pod.

However, if an Orca is in a situation where they feel threatened, are protecting their family, or are prodded when they’re feeling emotionally unstable, they will likely lash out and injure — or even kill — any human that’s in their vicinity. It’s also often said that if killer whales are kept in captivity, they may get frustrated and depressed and lash out at a trainer or another human.

Generally, the aim of a killer whale is only to play in a friendly way with the humans they come into contact with. But unfortunately, their playing often will hurt a human because of the Orca’s strength, and the fact that they will often drag them underwater where they will usually drown.

Can Orcas See Color?

Orcas have excellent eyesight and they can see color — but not in the same way that humans can. Orcas have two types of color receptors while most humans have three types of receptors. Therefore, Orcas have trouble seeing the red-green axis.

Do Orcas Eat Sharks?

Although sharks are major predators of the waters they live in, the one great natural enemy of a shark is the Orca! The Orca will win in a fight against a shark almost every time.

However, Orcas generally don’t hunt for sharks because while they will usually win, sharks have razor-sharp teeth and the fight they put up will generally harm the Orca before the Orca can finish them off.

Orcas have a very diverse carnivore diet and will typically hunt a variety of fish, as well as penguins, seals, moose, seabirds, whales, and even other dolphins. Orcas tend to hunt in pods of about 40 — mostly made of up families. Resident pods tend to be less aggressive and hunt only for fish and smaller sea creatures, while transient pods work together to hunt larger marine mammals — which they then share amongst themselves.

How Tall Is An Orca’s Dorsal Fin?

The dorsal fin is a major distinguishing feature of the Orca. Just behind the dorsal fin is a saddle-shaped grey area, referred to appropriately as a “saddle”.

Once an Orca is fully grown, its dorsal fin is tall and triangular and is an average of six feet tall.

Most female Orcas have slightly smaller, more curved dorsal fins that reach about three to four feet high.

How Big Do Orcas Get?

Orcas are considered to be the largest species of the dolphin family. Male Orcas will grow to be between 20 – 26 feet long, with female Orcas generally being a bit smaller — coming in between 18 – 22 feet long. To put this into perspective male Orcas are roughly the size of a bus. The longest Orca ever recorded was 32 feet long.

Male Orcas will typically weigh 12,000 pounds or more, while female Orcas generally weigh between 8,000 and 11,000 pounds.

Even when they are born, baby Orcas (calves) are roughly seven to eight feet long and weigh an average of 400 pounds.

How Often Do Orcas Eat?

Orcas need between 150 and 300 pounds of food every day in order to stay healthy and active. If an Orca is extremely active, they may need up to 375 pounds of food to make up for the calories they burn while hunting and traveling.

It’s not uncommon for an Orca to spend up to 90% of their day hunting for food.

Could An Orca Bite A Crocodile In Half?

With their super sharp teeth, an Orca very likely could bite a crocodile in half, however,it’s quite unlikely that would actually happen. Since Orcas tend to tear their food up before they eat it if they were to capture a crocodile, they would likely hold onto it with their teeth and slam it around until it was immobilized and then use their teeth to rip it apart.

Alternatively, if it was a large Orca that came upon a smaller crocodile the Orca may just swallow up the entire crocodile whole.

You Might Also Like:

• How Strong Is A Grizzly Bear?
• How Strong Is A Jaguar?
• How Strong Is A Crocodile?
• How Strong Is A Wolf?
• How Strong Is A Hippo?
• How Strong are Great White Sharks?
• How Strong are Chihuahuas?
• How Strong Is A Husky?
• How Strong are Pit Bulls?

Are you a noise-sensitive shooter? Then you must know about the “Subsonic 22LR”, a good round for quiet hunting.

Subsonic .22LR ammunition offers a quieter, more accurate, and less disruptive shooting experience. It is a valuable choice for target practice, hunting, and pest control, contributing to firearm longevity and safety.

In this blog post, we’ll delve into the intriguing world of subsonic .22LR, uncovering its unique characteristics, benefits, and versatile applications.

Let’s start..

What Is Subsonic Ammunition?

The term “subsonic” refers to the bullet traveling below the speed of sound, which is approximately 1,125 feet per second (340 meters per second) at sea level.

These loads range in muzzle velocity from 300 fps to 1,040 fps, depending upon the load and its intended purpose, compared to the standard long rifle load with a muzzle velocity of 1,200 fps.

Subsonic cartridges are loaded to operate at speeds less than sound speed, preventing the bullet from making a supersonic shockwave or “crack” as it travels through the air.

Unlike standard ammunition, which propels bullets faster than the speed of sound, subsonic ammo moves at a quieter, slower pace.

This reduced speed is a defining feature of subsonic ammunition, and it significantly impacts how it performs.

What Are The Characteristics of Subsonic .22LR Ammunition?

• Reduced Velocity: Travels at slower speeds, typically around 1,000 feet per second or slower, keeping the bullet below the speed of sound.
• Quieter Performance: Generates significantly less noise when fired compared to standard .22LR rounds.
• Heavier Bullets: Often features heavier bullets for enhanced stability and accuracy.
• Shorter Effective Range: More effective at shorter to moderate ranges due to its lower velocity.
• Reduced Recoil: Generates less recoil compared to standard .22LR rounds.
• Potential for Increased Bullet Expansion: Slower velocity can increase bullet expansion upon impact.
• Shot-to-Shot Consistency: Offers greater shot-to-shot consistency in terms of ballistics.
• Versatility: Compatible with various .22LR firearms, including handguns, rifles, and semi-automatic weapons.

How Subsonic .22LR Ammo Differs From Standard .22LR?

Here are the differences between subsonic .22LR ammo and standard .22LR ammo in simple bullet points:

What Is Subsonic 22 LR Good For?

Subsonic .22 LR ammo is a type of ammunition that travels at a velocity below the speed of sound. This makes it much quieter than standard .22 LR ammo, which travels at a velocity of about 1,125 feet per second.

The main applications of subsonic .22 LR ammo are:

• Hunting small game: Subsonic .22 LR ammo is ideal for hunting small game such as squirrels, rabbits, and groundhogs. The reduced noise makes it easier to approach the animals without spooking them, and the lower velocity also means that the bullets are less likely to over-penetrate and injure other animals.
• Pest Control: Subsonic ammo is a humane choice for pest control around farms and properties, as it eliminates pests with minimal noise disturbance.
• Shooting indoors: Subsonic .22 LR ammo is a good choice, as the reduced noise will not disturb others. This makes it a popular choice for target shooting, plinking, and pest control in areas where noise is a concern.
• Use with a suppressor: Subsonic .22 LR ammo can be made even quieter when used with a suppressor. This makes it a good choice for situations where stealth is important, such as law enforcement operations or pest control in urban areas.
• Reduced recoil: Subsonic .22 LR ammo has less recoil than standard .22 LR ammo. This makes it a good choice for recoil-sensitive shooters like young shooters or people with disabilities.
• Firearms Training: Subsonic .22LR ammo is valuable for training, particularly for beginners or individuals learning to manage recoil.
• Recreational Shooting: Subsonic .22LR ammo is popular among recreational shooters for target practice. Its reduced noise and recoil make it enjoyable for extended shooting sessions.

Overall, subsonic .22 LR ammo is a versatile round that can be used for various applications. It is a good choice for hunters, target shooters, and anyone who wants to reduce noise.

What Are The Safety And Legal Considerations Of 22lr Subsonic?

Safety and legal considerations are essential when using subsonic .22LR ammunition. Here are some important points to keep in mind:

What Are The Pros & Cons Of 22LR Subsonic?

Subsonic .22LR ammunition has pros and cons, and understanding these can help you decide whether it’s the right choice for your shooting needs. Here are the pros and cons of .22LR subsonic ammunition:

While it is true that slugs are consumed by some animals and even humans in certain cultures, it is crucial to understand the potential risks associated with eating them. Some slugs may carry parasites, which could cause serious health issues if ingested. One such example is the rat lungworm, which has been found in some slugs and snails, leading to severe infections in those who consume them without proper handling or cooking.

To ensure safety, it is important to know the correct preparation methods if one is to consider eating a slug. Cooked properly, slugs can be a unique addition to one’s culinary experience. Still, it is essential to weigh the risks and make informed decisions before consuming these slimy creatures.

Is It Safe To Eat Slugs?

Slugs and snails belong to the same family. However, while eating snails is very known around the world, slugs are more associated with garden pests than a choice for a meal. Similar to snails, there are risks and dangers associated with consuming slugs, but they also have a significant nutritional value.

Risks and Dangers

Before you consider adding slugs to your diet, it’s essential to understand the potential risks and dangers they may pose. Slugs can carry parasites and bacteria that could be harmful to humans. One such parasite is the rat lungworm, which can cause severe neurological disorders and even death if ingested. To reduce the risk of ingesting these parasites, it is crucial to cook slugs thoroughly before consumption.

Another concern is the potential consumption of toxic substances that slugs might have ingested. Slugs often consume decaying plant matter and various garden pesticides. These substances, if ingested by a human, can have detrimental effects on their health.

Nutritional Value

While there are risks associated with eating slugs, they do contain some nutritional value. Slugs are high in protein and low in fat, making them a potential alternative protein source for those looking to diversify their diet. However, it should be noted that the nutritional content of slugs may vary based on their diet and environment.

The nutritional value of slugs may not outweigh the potential harm they can cause, so it would be wise to consider other protein sources before resorting to slug consumption.

Preparing Slugs for Consumption

Befor slugs can be consumed, it is essential to prepare them correctly to avoid any risk of infection from parasites like Angiostrongylus cantonensis, which can be carried by some species. Here are some guidelines to how to choose the right slugs and some cleaning and cooking methods suitable for slug consumption.

Choosing the Right Slugs

When selecting slugs for consumption, always opt for those found in a clean environment free from pollution or pesticides. Be cautious of small, high-risk carriers, such as flatworms, which might be carrying nematodes like A. cantonensis. It is wise to avoid consuming wild slugs due to the potential risk of parasites and infections.

Consider sourcing edible slugs from a reputable supplier or grow them in a controlled environment, ensuring a hygienic and parasite-free habitat. This lowers the risk of infection and ensures the slugs are safe to eat.

Cleaning and Cooking Methods

Before consuming slugs, it is essential to clean and cook them properly. Follow these steps to prepare slugs for consumption:

1. Cleaning: After choosing the appropriate slugs, rinse them thoroughly under running water to remove dirt and debris. Soak the slugs in a saltwater solution for about 30 minutes to help remove any mucus and parasites present. Rinse the slugs again in fresh water to remove any traces of salt.
2. Cooking: Cooking slugs is crucial to kill any potential parasites and make them safe to consume. Boil the slugs for at least 15 minutes to ensure they are cooked through. After boiling, some people prefer to remove the slug’s skin and discard any internal organs. While this step is optional, it can improve the texture and taste of the slugs.

Different cooking methods can be used for preparing slugs, including:

• Pan-frying: After boiling and cleaning, pan-fry the slugs in a little oil or butter over medium-high heat for about 5 minutes on each side, until they develop a golden-brown color.
• Grilling: Place the boiled slugs on skewers and grill them over medium-high heat for about 10 minutes, turning occasionally until they are evenly cooked.
• Stewing: Combine the boiled slugs with vegetables, herbs, and spices in a pot or slow cooker. Cook the mixture over low heat for several hours, allowing the flavors to meld and the slugs to become tender.

Remember to always exercise caution when consuming slugs, ensuring proper cleaning and cooking techniques are followed to minimize the risk of infection from parasites.

Cultural Perspectives on Eating Slugs

Historical Usage

Eating slugs has been a part of human diet in some cultures throughout history. In certain Native American communities, slug consumption has been documented in holistic approaches to American Indian texts. These texts describe the use of slugs as a source of nutrition and their role in traditional food practices. It’s essential to consider the historical context when discussing the consumption of slugs, as different cultures and communities have varied perspectives on this practice.

Regional Beliefs

In some parts of the world, consuming slugs is an accepted practice, while in other regions, it might be considered uncommon or even taboo. For example, some communities in the Pacific Northwest and Alaska, where slug species are abundant, have been known to include slugs in their traditional diets. The methods of preparation and consumption may differ between regions, but it is clear that slugs have been and still are a part of some communities’ food culture.

On the other hand, in Western cultures, the idea of eating slugs may seem unappetizing or even repulsive to some. Due to the slimy texture and appearance, many people might not view slugs as an appealing food choice. However, it is crucial to recognize and respect that different cultures and regions have their unique reasons and traditions surrounding slug consumption.

If you’ve made the mistake of leaving your trail cameras hanging on the same tree from opening day until post-rut then it’s time to start looking at the calendar and designing a better trail camera strategy for different seasons.

Please note this trail camera placement strategy guide does not give exact dates due to our global customer base and that every region is a little different. Shoot, even Northern and Southern deer hunters in the States will have different time schedules when they move trail cams, but you get the point!

Early Spring Trail Camera Strategies

Even if you like to track spring gobblers during this time of year (and who doesn’t), you can still kick off your trail camera tour. The only thing needed is a little attractant to get the ball rolling. For the most part, this includes one ingredient – salt.

Not only are minerals a good attractant, but introducing an intruder into the area is a great way to arouse a buck’s interest. This can be accomplished with a licking branch and some natural, pre-orbital gland secretions.

As soon as the leaves start to gobble up, the landscape buck antlers will start growing, and they will naturally seek out salt and other minerals. Whitetail does and fawns will also be attracted to these sites, and capturing them on camera is a great way to determine how many new deer have been added to the herd as well as how many does are in the area. This info will be precious in a few short months when the rut kicks in.

Doe bedding areas or suspected big buck hideouts are great locations to start mineral sites in early spring. Look for pinch points and funnels that will drive deer to your salt block and, ultimately, your trail camera. If you live in agricultural areas, then field edges are a great place to start. Once travel routes have been revealed, you can always choose to delve deeper into cover and start a new mineral site to get closer to bedding or staging areas.

Summer Trail Camera Strategies

By now, your food plot should be in full swing. If so, a trail camera set up along the fringes would be a great way to capture that nocturnal buck who only hits the fields at night. In areas where baiting is legal, trail cameras could be set up over bait to get the same results.

Either way, food will be the primary driving force for deer movement, so it only makes sense to hang your trail camera in areas where deer will be feeding. Summer is also a good time to consider staking out a water source with your trail camera to help deer movement. Don’t dismiss the value of a central hub of H2O in your hunting area. Hang that trail camera.

On a side note, this is also a great time to conduct a trail camera survey if you have a private tract of land you will be hunting on. It’s hands-down the best way to monitor your deer herd population. You’ll be able to estimate your deer density, fawn recruitment, sex ratio, the age structure of your bucks, and more.

Early Fall Trail Camera Strategies

As I eluded to earlier, things change. Those locations that proved so good in early and late summer are now proving to be different. This is simply due to changes in food and cover. Leaves are turning and falling, and deer are ready to find alternate food sources – like acorns!

In addition, testosterone is gradually starting to build in male deer. This causes a variety of behavioral changes, which will ultimately change deer movement and sightings. To keep up with these changes, you must move your trail cameras.

Food sources can change throughout the course of a season, so become familiar with all types, especially those that appear naturally in your hunting area.

Food can still be a hot ticket, but bedding areas, travel routes, and staging areas are usually where you will find a lot of buck movement. Some of the images you capture will be in daylight but expect many of them to occur under cover of darkness. That’s just the nature of the beast when you’re dealing with mature bucks.

Nevertheless, you can’t formulate a plan of attack until you get confirmation a big buck is in the area – day or night. So start by capturing the image first, then move on.

Pre Rut/Rut Trail Camera Strategies

Things get hectic during this time frame as bucks move with reckless abandonment, looking for a hot doe. In the weeks leading up to the actual breeding phase, bucks will leave a bevy of signs announcing their aggression and intentions. Look for that sign and consider hanging your favorite trail camera somewhere nearby.

Once the actual breeding begins, you can expect a drop in mature buck movement as they are pushing does into more secluded areas to not only avoid the pressure from other bucks but the onslaught of hunting pressure as well. Your trail cameras and treestands should be moved as well.

I like pinch points, oak flats, logging roads, secluded ridge top saddles, field edges, and the fringes of doe bedding areas or anywhere else the females congregate. A camera hung somewhere along my entry, and the exit route means I can check it on days that I hunt without disturbing the bucks I am chasing before the hunt. This also allows me to decide if the area I am hunting is worth returning to or if I should pull up the stakes and move on.

Post Rut/Winter Trail Camera Strategies

Everything old is new again as the urge to breed is over, and the focus once again shifts to food. And while you may want to keep a few cameras hanging over remaining food sources, it wouldn’t hurt to keep one in the areas you used during the rut. There is always the chance that the buck you’re after hasn’t given up hope and is still searching for love. Only your trail camera will tell you if that is the case or not.

In addition, this is a great time to conduct an end-of-the-season or winter trail camera survey. With deer searching for food, you’ll be able to get a tally of the bucks that made it through the year, as well as an understanding of your property’s deer density, buck to doe ratio, age structure, and more. Just like the trail camera survey you should run in late summer, this information is critical to understanding how you should approach the upcoming season.

Conclusion

Deer movement is one of the most important keys to getting the most out of your trail camera. Adjust your trail camera strategies to match each phase of the whitetail season, and you will gain a plethora of knowledge that will ultimately lead to more filled tags. The trick is finding a way to manage all of that trail camera knowledge and data. Once that happens, all of the puzzle pieces will start to fall into place—best of luck.

PS – If you’re using trail cameras and haven’t tried DeerLab’s trail camera photo management service, we invite you to sign-up for our free 30-day trial. We think it will completely change the way you view trail camera photos.

DON’T MISS Episode 34 – 2022 Giant Gear Issue Series – Decoys with MOJO and Big Al’s

Dive Bomb Industries – F1 Wigeon Floaters

Many waterfowlers can’t think of duck and goose hunting without thinking about Dive Bomb, and for a good reason: their decoys work incredibly well. If it’s not already in your floater arsenal, one go-to should be the F1 Wigeon. A one-piece decoy that showcases lifelike perfection, these white-shouldered bad boys are sure to grab the attention of passer-by ducks and get them to put their feet down. These decoys have been hand-crafted by World Champion Jon Jones, and each six-pack comes with four upright drakes and a pair of active hens.

$75/6-pack | divebombindustries.com

Lifetime Decoys – FlexFloat Pintails

Lifetime Decoys has recently rebranded themselves as Heyday, but their famous Hydrofoam decoys remain the same. Pintails are one of my all-time favorite ducks. The boy birds are beautiful, and I love to see that white chest and black sprig in flight. The problem for many is finding a decoy with a sprig that’s not brittle as an icicle. That problem, luckily, has been eliminated. Enter Lifetime’s damn near indestrucbile FlexFloat Pintail. Available in 12 packs with eight drakes and four hens, the Flexfloat design means the sprig won’t snap off the bulls or hang on decoy bags. At 8.9 pounds per dozen, light weight is another plus.

$300/dozen | heydayoutdoor.com

Final Approach – HD Green-Winged Teal

New from Final Approach are several duck species-specific floaters, but we love an excellent early-season teal shoot, and these caught our eye. Decoy realism is remarkable, and the waterfowl masses will appreciate the full-size, one-piece construction. These floaters work well for stand-alone teal sets and make great filler decoys, especially when you want more ducks in the spread and the walk from the truck is long, and weight and space are critical.

$100/dozen | fabrand.com

Tanglefree – Flight Series Canvasback

Most duck hunters, me included, get smitten when they see the large red head and coal-black bill of a drake Canvasback. It’s moments like these when having the most realistic fakes come into play, and it’s hard to beat Tanglefree’s Flight Series Canvasback Decoys. Carved by Michael Braun, these four males and three hens sport ultra-realistic paint schemes and feather detail. The high-density foam fill is tough to beat, as is the tried-and-true weighted keel.

$85/6-pack | tanglefree.com

MOJO Outdoors – Flock-A-Flickers 2

Waterfowl hunters refer to it as a “flash” or “flick” — that brief glint seen when watching content ducks sitting on a pond or field. When passer-by ducks see these glints of movement, it gives them the confidence to come in. MOJO knows a thing or three about helping hunters put ducks in the decoys, and the new Flock A Flicker 2 4-Pack features an improved design with the same effective spinning wing beats that create that flash and flick, and the unit will work in water or on dry ground. Each unit can be programmed to spin at different times via the random on/off timers, and each will operate for up to 30 hours on three AA batteries.

$100 | mojooutdoors.com

Lucky Duck – Super Swimmer HDi

Realism on the water is essential to getting wings to cup and feet to drop, and one of the best tools you can add to your waterfowl arsenal to ensure this is Lucky Duck’s Super Swimmer HDi. This swimmer uses a jet-propulsion system to create natural swimming movement, and the decoy has a trio of timer modes. The durable EVA plastic handles wear and tear and promises no-fail use season after season. The Super Swimmer HDi includes a 12-volt lithium-ion rechargeable battery and a smart charger.

$180 | luckyduck.com

Decoy Central – Super Block Green-Winged Teal

Super Blocks are tough, affordable decoys than can bulk up your spread by mixing them in with your more expensive, ultra-realistic decoys. Floaters have high-contrast paint for great visibility and realistic detail, and are available in Mallard drake, Greenwing Teal drake and Lesser Canada Goose. Mallard feeding butt and mini spinner also available. Floaters have weighted keel with multiple head positions.

Starting at $30 | decoycentral.com

Avian-X – Topflight Early Season Mallards

Often, the difference between scratching out a few birds and filling duck totes is details. Enter Avian-X’s Topflight Early Season Mallards. These decoys accurately capture the early plumage of drake and hen mallards, and when this detail is combined with top-end paint adhesion, you get mallard imposters that bring ducks close. Each six-pack comes with a Feeder Drake, Feeder Hen, Swimming Hen, High-Head Drake, and a pair of Swimmer Drakes. The weight-forward swim-keel maximizes natural movement in the water.

$170 | avian-x.com

MOJO Outdoors – Mini Mallard Elite

MOJO’s Mini Mallard Elite is a waterfowling win and a staple for many duck killers. Smaller in size, this decoy is remote-ready and a breeze to tote around. The position of the motor, battery, and other operating components ensure less wobble, and the cam lock support pole, drop-in battery and on/off magnetic wings make setup quick. This realistic-looking duck fake comes with MOJO’s Multi-Decoy remote/receiver.

$120 | mojooutdoors.com

Last Updated on November, 2024

A shock collar can help you resolve most of your dog’s behavior problems. From obedience to excessive bark training, a good shock collar will help you achieve quick and fast results when combined with correct training methods.

Since Golden Retrievers are active and playful dogs, you need the best quality shock collar to wean your dog off unsafe and negative behavior safely. To help you with that, this article reviews 7 shock collars suitable for a Golden Retriever.

Also, the buying guide will give you a deeper insight into how you can evaluate the features offered by a shock collar.

The Best Shock Collars for Golden Retrievers

1. Pet Resolve PTS1200

You can try multiple combinations to create the perfect training for your Golden Retriever.

This shock collar offers a super-long ¾ mile range that can easily cover wide outdoor areas.

So you can train your dog while letting it have the freedom to explore a massive area.

An interesting feature of this shock collar is the ‘Remove the shock function‘ feature. Yes, you can opt out of the shock function by swapping the metal prongs with the plastic ones. It converts the shock into vibration so that you can use this training unit as a beep and vibration-only system.

This shock collar has a memory function that lets you resume the training session where you left off. The anti-bark function comes in handy when your dog barks unwantedly. And the night mode guides you on night walks with the help of the LED light.

You can also accessorize the collar with extra-long prongs to improve skin contact. It eliminates the need to trim your dog’s fur. It comes in handy for dogs like Golden Retrievers.

These training collars are made of the highest quality materials to make them completely waterproof, meaning your dog can take them for a swim all year around. The collar is adjustable for Golden Retrievers 15 lbs and over.

The Pet Resolve PTS1200 was rated no.1 because, unlike other shock collars, it lets you opt out of using the shock but is available when needed. Other shock collars will always have the shock to be combined, but you can’t skip it.

The fact that you skip this function as you see fit makes it a crucial versatility because you are here shopping for the best shock collar for your Golden Retriever.

2. Halo 2+ Training Collar

Like other collars with a remote/transmitter, the Halo 2+ has the Halo app as the control unit. To use this shock collar, you have to first create virtual fences, and that’s done through the app.

You can create fences wherever you want: your backyard, the play park, the beach, the mall, etc. Also, the app has a location tracking feature that allows you to keep track of your dog even when you are away.

The Halo 2+ collar comes in three sizes small, medium, and large, so it can fit neck sizes ranging from 11 to 30.5 inches. And the collar gives a runtime of 21 hours per charge. So at the end of the day, you can recharge it along with your other smart devices.

As for comfort and durability, the Halo 2+ shock collar is made of extremely durable material that is chew-resistant, slobber-proof, and waterproof at IP67.

3. Educator E-Collar Humane Dog Training Collar

And the transmitter has a range of ½ mile for long-distance communication.

Powered by rechargeable Li-Po batteries, the collar and remote have a quick 2-hour recharge. And the low battery indicators will keep you informed of the battery status.

These shock collars have a fully waterproof construction that is also shock resistant to withstand long-term and frequent use, even around water.

4. SportDOG Brand SportTrainer Remote Trainers

This dog shock collar features tone, vibration, and10 levels of static stimulation to allow the trainer to customize a training process accommodating varying learning curves of different dogs.

You can use the static mode on continuous, momentary, rising, or boosted continuous static stimulations options.

The collar and transmitter run on rechargeable lithium-ion batteries with a quick 2-hour recharge period and long working life. And the use of DryTek® Technology keeps the system waterproof and submersible up to 25 feet, so it is usable through various wet conditions.

5. PetSpy Dog Shock Collar With 1950ft Remote

The blind design of the remote featuring easy-to-use buttons ensures full focus on the training while allowing long-distance control over 650 yards for safe training even when off-leash. Also, the collar is adjustable for dogs weighing 10 lbs to 120 lbs.

This shock collar’s durable and waterproof quality makes it great for all outdoor enthusiasts. The high-quality construction ensures frequent use even in the rain.

Rechargeable Li-ion batteries power the collar and the remote. And the fast charging technology, you have a collar with a long-lasting battery life ready to use whenever.

6. My Pet Command Dog Training Collar

And you can also train in the rain. The bright beacon flashing lights on the collar will help keep track of your dog at night. Also, the collar is adjustable to fit neck sizes of 8.2” – 26.5″.

7. DT Systems IDT-Plus Micro Dog Trainer Collar

The collar is lightweight, compact, fully waterproof, and adjustable. The collar also has an internal antenna system to notify the maxx range and a smart LED light that is especially handy for nighttime use.

A Buyer’s Guide to Help Choose the Best Shock Collar for Your Golden Retriever

Before you decide on a collar, you must consider a few factors and the functionality of these factors to determine if the collar can fulfill your needs. Below are a few factors that will help you make the best purchase for your Golden Retriever.

1. Purpose of Purchase

Shock collars should strictly be used as a training tool for behavior modification like excessive barking, aggressive behavior, or basic day-to-day obedience.

Determining the purpose of purchase will help you choose the most suitable shock collar to fulfill your purpose effectively.

For example, if you need a shock collar to correct unwanted barking, a collar like the Pet Resolve would be the best bet, as it includes an anti-bark function targeted at such corrections. Besides, you can use the same collar for overall obedience too.

2. Effective Coverage & Range

Having a long-range to work with is a good thing when working with playful dogs like Golden Retrievers. It will allow your dog more ground area for fun and play.

Choose a shock collar that can effectively cover your regular surroundings and the areas your dog is allowed to roam in so that you don’t lose a connection even if your dog goes far.

It is also important to note that timing is everything regarding training. A standby mode although conserves battery affects the timing of the correction delivered.

So for effective and timely corrections, I’d recommend a collar like the Pet Resolve PTS1200, which no longer includes the standby mode.

3. The Size of Your Golden Retriever

Golden Retrievers are moderately big dogs with long fur. For the collar to have a reliable effect, the shock should effectively reach the dog without causing any discomfort or pain.

A collar that is adjustable and features longer prongs to allow good contact with the dog’s skin is what you should look for.

4. Efficient Training Modes With Adjustable Intensity Levels

5. Durability and Reliability

A shock collar should be a long-term investment. To ensure it stays long-term, look into the materials used to craft a collar. Leather, biothane, nylon, sturdy buckles, and metal fixtures contribute to the collar’s durability.

Also, check for waterproof and impact-proof qualities for added durability so you can use them in various weather conditions.

6. Battery Life

Longer the battery life, the longer the use you can harvest out of it before recharging again. And this is important because it saves your time and energy from having to recharge recurrently.

So ideally, choose a shock collar with a high-capacity rechargeable battery for long battery life.

7. Function to Price Ratio

So many shock collars are available from various brands. And all these collars offer something that makes them different from each other. But do you need all those features?

No, you don’t. But you have to know what features you will best benefit from. Accordingly, you can weigh the price tag against the collar’s features to determine if it’s worth the price.

Frequently Asked Questions

Conclusion

You can gain effective results from training only when the shock collar is used as humanely as possible.

With consistent training, starting from mild stimulations, you can set the right tone for your Golden Retriever to understand the whole point of training.

Eventually, you may not even need the shock function because dogs are intelligent creatures. They only need a little nudge to push them in the right direction.

My recommendation for you to achieve reliable results is the Pet Resolve PTS1200. It has all the features you need for a thorough conditioning process to help train your dog.