Coming from the eastern whitetail woods and objectively entered my first broken country western elk hunt I looked at glassing as a simplistic way to locate animals. Find a vantage point, setup, and scan the mountain sides. I focused having the best gear I could afford when it came to glassing but overlooked the actual art. I very quickly learned that there’s more to being successful behind glass than just spending time looking through a spotter or binoculars. While I continue to hone my western skill set I’ve come a long ways over the last 4 years.

Being a successful western hunter, at some point will entail working glass as long as the habitat allows for the opportunity. Glassing is an planned and learned skill. In this article I’ll cover all the mistakes I’ve made and lessons I’ve learned glassing out west.

Have a Plan

As I mentioned in the opening paragraph, spending hours behind glass does not guarantee anything but time spent. With most western hunts being plan around a 5-7 day hunt, eastern guys heading west need to be efficient with time. It’s difficult to find animals in new vast territory and locating animals to hunt is often where hunters will spending the most of their time. However, it’s also where the least amount of planning is spent for most new hunter.

When it comes to glassing, there’s more to planning than just marking vantage points on onX. You need to identify glassing points based on where elk will be, sun position, access, and vantage points. Morning, afternoon, and evening glass spots will likely all be different. Once you have boots on the ground be sure you use your tracking tool on onX to find your way out in the dark….Yes, I’ve made that mistake and found myself “cliffed” out resulting in a longer hike out and little sleep.

Morning Glassing Spots – Focus on areas that elk will be moving back from feeding areas. From my experiences of hunting elk with a bow in September, it takes time for elk to transition from major destination food sources back to bed. Sometimes hours! Find destination food sources and transition routes back to bed that have broken ground. Mark these areas on onX with a specific color. Next find vantage points that are in a workable distance with the glass you have. Lastly, you need to think about where the sun will be. I’ve made the mistake of doing the first two steps to only be blinded by staring into the sun. Keep the sun to your back.

Afternoon Glassing Spots – Focus on bedding areas. At times this can be difficult as from my experience, elk enjoy dark timber as the September sun is high in sky. Also, keep in mind, as hunting pressure increases elk will shift accordingly. In my opinion, while elk are not as cagey as a whitetail they will shift when pressured. Attempt to identify bedding areas with broken timber or pockets of timber and focus your efforts on the edges. Considering you’re probably not an elk expert if you’re reading this, picking a bedding area off a map is highly unlikely. I’ve found good success locating bugling elk in the mornings and simply following them back to bed while maintaining some distance. Location bugles are your best friend here. Keep in mind, the distance between food and bed will vary. I’ve witnessed elk moving less than .5 mile up into a drainage off an alfa field and I’ve also seen where elk move 5 miles back to a bedding area. Anyway you can locate a bedding area, mark it on your map and plan to spend the afternoons, which are typically slow, glassing to gain intel for an evening hunt or even a hunt the follow morning. Again, find your vantage point and maintain a safe distance based on the wind.

Evening Glassing Spots – Much like morning spots you’ll be focusing on the bed to food pattern. If you’ve been glassing bedding areas during the afternoon, it may make sense to stay put if your vantage point still works. If you’re taking a blind stab and it’s your first setup glassing, focus on transition areas and pick a vantage point that offers the most coverable ground while keeping the setting sun at your back. Points, saddles, and openings not far from bedding have all worked for me in the past. Use your tracker on the way in to have a clear cut access plan for the way out under the stars.

Before you go into the hunt, it does pay to have vantage points marked on your map with areas of focus for each part of the day. It will likely change once you lay your eyes on the first herd of animals but that’s the game. Without a plan you’ll start to feel the pressure of filling your tag and end up doing more work than needed during your time in the field. Creating a glassing plan is a necessity for western rookies, I’ve went into hunts with plans and without plans. Each hunt is different but it seems the more prep and work committed to the hunt the better and more enjoyable the trips turn out.

Sun Direction

I’ve discreetly mention sun direction in with your glassing plan but it very well deserves it’s own place in this article. It’s not rocket science but it does need to be top of mind. I’ve learned this lesson the hard way, spending entire afternoons climbing to a marked vantage point only to find it totally useless because I was blinded by the sun. The real issue here is simply wasted time. When you’re in vast territory spending countless calories and time climbing you can’t just jump over one ridge and make it work….at least not in my experience. You don’t always need the sun to your back but you DEFINITELY do not want it directly at your face. If you take one thing from this article, this is it!

Comfort and Steady Base

The entire point of glassing is to breakdown an area by spending TIME observing from a distance. Glassing is a skill and it’s not something you learn without doing. The majority of the time when you do spot an animal you will only be catching glimpses of movement if you lucky. More often than not, you’re trying to locate something out of place, an antler, leg, etc. To pull that off you need to go slow and create a systematic approach to cover an area. I personally like to break areas down into a grid and cover it horizontally first before moving back down or up. For example, I’ll start at A1 move to F1 and then return back to A1 before moving vertically and repeat the process over and over and over.

The point here is that to be successful you’ll need to go slow, which takes time. So you need to get comfortably. When you first get setup, take the time to dig out a spot to sit and get a decent backrest, even if you have to carry a few rocks or logs to create it. In effort to save weight in my pack, I usually do not carry a glassing pad because I typically have layers of clothing with me. I’ll use those layers to sit on.

Having a solid tripod is one of the things I personally overlooked on my first couple elk hunts. You cannot be effective behind glass without a solid base. It’s really that simple. Beyond having quality gear, you need to learn how to get it setup solid. Once you begin to glass you WILL inevitably bump your tripod leaving you wondering where you were looking. Diggin in your tripod legs or setting something of weight (rocks, sticks, pack, etc) on each leg will save you some frustrations. In addition to having a solid base, get familiar with your fluid head and it’s adjustments. You don’t want to have them too loose but you also don’t want them cranked too tight. The perfect medium is where you can loosen your pan or tilt with one head without torque on the tripod so much that you’re moving it.

Binos or Spotter or Both?

As I continue to grow as an elk hunter I reflect back to earlier hunts. Things I did wrong, things I did right, lessons I’ve learned and often wondered about how each hunt would play out if I executed things differently. One of the biggest mistakes I make during glassing is going to fast and taking my eyes away from my spotter. For someone who has never spent hours in one place behind glass, it may seem easy. It’s not! It’s mentally exhausting and your eyes will be strained. Something I picked up from Cliff Gray, a lifetime guide and elk hunter, is to use both binoculars and a spotter. Utilize your binoculars to scan and then use your spotter to get a better look at whatever you see. This one thing has drastically increased my glassing success.

While the thoughts of glassing up a giant muley or elk may seem like easy work for those who have never done it, those who have know better. Just like the digital scouting we do for whitetails, creating a plan and considering these tips to glass will pay dividends in aiding to a successful western hunt. I can almost guarantee you won’t be good at it the first go round but with conscious efforts through preparation and execution you can find success and become better with each western experience. You may even find yourself implementing glassing more and more in the whitetail woods!

Author: Chad Sylvester, Exodus Co-Founder/Owner

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With so deer hunters many reaching for a bottle of herbicide to “improve” their food plots, are you truly helping your deer herd?

Food plotting has evolved greatly since the days of an “ol’ greenfield.” From Genetically Modified Organisms (GMOs) to precision farm equipment, today’s food plots are comparable to most commercial farming operations. Though heavily used in food plots, herbicides are likely the least understood by those applying them. So are you actually benefitting your food plots and deer by using these chemicals?

Glyphosate (AKA Roundup®)

Likely the most utilized herbicide for food plots, glyphosate or more commonly called by its trade name Roundup®, is one that is used in both food plot preparation, as well as weed and grass control in actively growing plots. Though it is one of the most commonly used herbicides, it is likely one that is least understood.

For instance, many worry about how glyphosate can affect seeds just planted or how long to wait before planting after spraying glyphosate. The answer is simple, you don’t have to wait at all. Glyphosate is a foliar-active herbicide meaning that it typically travels through the leaves of the plant to the roots to kill. So when there are no parts of the plant exposed (as is the case with seeds) then there is no possibility of killing the plant. The only benefit of waiting is to allow competition in the immediate vicinity to die back so the new plant has access to more available nutrients. In this case, it will take approximately 7-10 to start seeing significant results.

USAGE

Most glyphosate products will range in application rate. Typically this is determined by the type of plants you are trying to remove and at what growth stage. For instance, removing something like common ragweed, an annual broadleaf weed, may need 16oz/acre. But a hardy, perennial grass-like fescue could require up to 64oz/acre.

Typical herbicide application requires it to be mixed with water to create a “solution.” The amount of solution applied per acre depends on the application method. For example, if you are using a tractor and 3-point sprayer with 25-foot boom arms, then based on the tractor speed, sprayer pressure, and the number of nozzles, you will determine the amount of solution per acre. This is called “calibrating” the sprayer. Why is this important? Well let’s say your sprayer puts out 15 gallons of solution per acre, and you are wanting to apply 64oz of glyphosate per acre to kill fescue. Then you will need to add 14.5 gallons of water (15 gallons of “solution” less 64oz of glyphosate) for every 64oz of glyphosate to adequately treat an acre.

Calibrating a sprayer ensures that you are killing the plants you want, and at the same time not negatively affecting the crops you want to grow. Too much glyphosate can dramatically reduce yields in crops (like “yellow flash” in soybeans, corn, alfalfa, or wheat) or worse, kill the plants you were trying to release from the competition. Not enough glyphosate applied wastes your time and money, by not effectively removing the weeds and grasses resulting in continued competition and a drop in yield. So as you can see there is a lot more to spraying than just “running and gunning.”

BENEFITS

There is a limited amount of nutrients (Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium, Calcium, etc.) and resources (like water moisture) in the soil available to plants. By removing the competition, we are essentially allowing the plants we want access to more of the requirements needed for optimum growth. More available nutrients in the plant mean more nutrients transferred to your deer during normal grazing behavior.

Glyphosate shows benefits in both food plot preparation and maintenance. Most areas are crowded with undesirable plant species before being planted. You have options, mow it down, till it under, or even both. But typically this only removes the visible vegetation and does not kill the plant. Often, several weeks after planting weeds and grasses will erupt in the plot, sucking valuable nutrients from the crop you are growing. Spraying glyphosate prior to planting, will kill all existing plants and dramatically reduce the number of weeds and grasses that come up after planting.

With the advent of GMO species like “Roundup® Ready” or glyphosate-resistant soybeans, corn, alfalfa, and wheat, glyphosate can be sprayed on actively growing plots to remove any competition and not significantly affect the planted crop. It is worth noting that anytime a crop is sprayed with glyphosate, even at the correct rate, the herbicide will tie up nutrients in the soil, essentially “handcuffing” the plant from taking up critical resources. Though it is a negative, the benefits of releasing it from competing vegetation are typically greater. There are also new products for food plotters and farmers on the market to counter glyphosate’s “handcuff” effect.

HARMFUL EFFECTS ON WILDLIFE

Even though we know that using glyphosate appropriately can effectively reduce competition, and result in increased nutrients to the crops we are promoting, we are still applying a chemical. In school, we are often taught that chemicals are “bad.” In fact, when we hear chemicals often the old skull and crossbones seem to be the first image to appear in our heads. So with that being said, can using glyphosate on food plots hurt the deer we are intending to help?

In 2010, nearly 70% of all corn and 93% of all soybeans were herbicide-resistant. With that many acres being planted, and whitetails occupying a lot of it, any negative effects would likely have made national news. Studies reported by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) revealed glyphosate “…is practically non-toxic to upland game species.” Other studies have focused on the effects on upland game birds like bobwhite quail, and waterfowl, like mallard ducks. With a large amount of glyphosate needed to be directly ingested, it is a “slight” toxic risk at most to even these small animals. So the odds of any type of negative anatomical effect on an animal the size of a white-tailed deer is highly unlikely. This is also demonstrated in Table 1, which shows active ingredients in herbicides, as well as commonly known items and their “LD50” values. An LD50 value represents the dose of a specific chemical needed to kill half of the tested population (usually mice or rats). At over 5,000 mg/kg for oral ingestion, glyphosate is nearly 25 times less toxic than the bleach in your laundry room! Yes, chemicals can be dangerous; and should always be treated carefully, with proper safety gear, and according to the label recommendations. But many things already in your home are much worse!

Sethoxydim and Clethodim (AKA Poast®, Select®, Arrest®)

In the majority of food plots, the most competing vegetation is grasses. From Fescue to Bermuda to Foxtail, grasses can choke out what seemed to be a healthy food plot in no time. Because of the thick, extensive root system of grasses, they are easily able to outcompete many food plot species for valuable nutrients, micronutrients, and water. Fortunately, we do have options to free our food plots from grasses’ “death grip” and thrive to provide for whitetails. Sethoxydim and clethodim are herbicides that control annual and perennial grasses in broad-leafed food plots like clover, chicory, alfalfa, brassica, and even soybeans. But they aren’t for all food plots, and deer hunters can run into some issues when treating “mixes.”

USAGE

The most commonly used sethoxydim goes under the trade name Poast®, and the most common clethodim is a trade named Select®. Both can control annual and perennial grasses. Typically, it is a personal preference of which to use, though some may say one herbicide is better on a specific grass than another. For example, some fescues are more effectively controlled with clethodim than sethoxydim. Regardless of which you choose, it is important to pair them with crop oil or surfactant. This will help the herbicide penetrate the leaf tissue more effectively and allow the herbicide to move through the plant. Typically, results begin to show around 10-14 days of application. Application rates vary based on the grasses targeted and the stage of growth but range from 8-32 ounces. The chemicals can be applied with a hand pump, backpack, ATV/UTV, or tractor-mounted sprayers.

As previously mentioned, these herbicides can provide plenty of “relief” for clover, brassica, and many other types of broadleaf food plot species. However, though we may not think of them as “grasses,” sethoxydim and clethodim will kill wheat, oats, rye grain, and even corn. Where this particularly causes a problem for food plotters is when planting “mixes.” A “mix” is planted to provide forages that peak in attractiveness and/or nutrition throughout the year. For instance, you might plant a mix of oats and brassicas, where the oats will be attractive early in the hunting season and the brassicas attractive during the late season. If the grass becomes an issue in this plot, spraying sethoxydim or clethodim will not only remove the grasses but your oats as well! Be very careful when deciding whether or not to spray a food plot that contains a mix of species.

BENEFITS

Food plots released from grass competition will be able to uptake more nutrients, micronutrients, and water, often resulting in better growth and more nutrients which will be passed on to grazing deer. Sethoxydim and clethodim really “earn their keep” when it comes to maintaining perennial food plots. These year-round, nutritionally-packed food plots are susceptible to grasses during the new growth cycle every spring and summer, especially as they age. Spraying the grass-selective herbicides during the late spring or early summer can release the perennial plots from competing grasses and allow them to obtain the critical nutrients needed to provide your deer herd with a source of highly-digestible protein during late pregnancy, early fawn development, and antler growth.

HARMFUL EFFECTS ON WILDLIFE

Unlike glyphosate, there has not been as much testing of the grass-selective herbicides sethoxydim and clethodim on wildlife. As much as it seems non-related, the best testing we can point to is that of the domesticated sheep, which like white-tailed deer are ruminants (having a four-chambered stomach). Research published by the EPA noted that clethodim residue was “adequately delineated” in testing on sheep. In other words, the clethodim residue was displaced into the proper regions of the body through filtering or excreted with no signs of negative effects. In fact, when testing was conducted on dogs, 91% of the ingested clethodim residue was found in the urine and feces. What does this mean? Basically, less than 10% of the chemical actually ended up in the body, and such a low dose resulted in no adverse effects on the animal. Keep in mind that these tests were done by giving animals a “straight dose” of the chemical through a gel pill, rather than wildlife naturally browsing through a treated field which is likely resulting in much less herbicide being ingested.

2, 4-D and 2, 4-DB (AKA P.B.I.®, Hi-Yield®, Butyrac®)

Though typically not as competitive as grasses, broadleaf weeds can be a problem in food plots, especially when disturb-favored weeds erupt not long after tilling the soil. The herbicides, 2, 4-D and 2, 4-DB, control broadleaf plants in food plots. But unlike sethoxydim and clethodim, these two chemicals are dramatically different in the manner they can be used.

USAGE

The two herbicides both can effectively control broadleaf weeds, however, the effect on the food plot species planted is drastically different. If you apply 2, 4-D on a clover or alfalfa plot, not only will you eliminate broadleaf weeds but also your entire food plot! This herbicide is more suited for removing broadleaf weeds out of grass-like plots including oats, wheat, and corn. So what do you do for clover and alfalfa plots?

That’s why the “B” in 2, 4-DB is so critical. Representing butyric acid, 2, 4-DB allows the control of broadleaf in clover and other legumes. This is extremely valuable in mixes as mentioned earlier. If a food plot contains oats, wheat, and clover, a plotter could spray with 2, 4-DB to control unwanted broadleaf weeds without negatively affecting the food plot species.

The two herbicides can be applied via any of the spray equipment previously mentioned. Rates vary, but often 16-32 ounces of herbicide per acre is required.

BENEFIT

Like grasses, broadleaf weeds can suck valuable resources from our food plots. By removing the competition, we are able to “free up” more components for our food plots to thrive, which are likely to end up in the deer we are trying to grow healthier and larger.

Broadleaf weeds are also capable of shading out food plots, which can stunt growth, or worse, kill food plot species. An alternative to spraying 2, 4-D or 2, 4-DB is the use of mechanical removal, typically through mowing. Because the broadleaf weeds are normally annuals, cutting them can allow the food plot species to “jump ahead” and never look back. It’s worth noting that the plant can still recover from mowing and come back during the same growing season, whereas, the chemical treatment will likely kill it off.

HARMFUL EFFECTS ON WILDLIFE

Research on the different forms of 2, 4-D has only shown effects on fish and some aquatic amphibians. Its effect on mammals appears to be nearly non-existent. However, because of its elevated LD50 value (see Table 1), it should be handled with utmost care. The only real issue documented has been severe eye irritation when in direct contact with the herbicides.

Herbicide use on food plots is likely only to increase. It’s important to understand what the chemical you are applying is, what it does, and if it can affect both animals and humans. The herbicides discussed are the most commonly used on food plots for deer. When used correctly, they can be a huge asset to any deer hunter looking to generate a plot better than their neighbor’s.

Spring is my second favorite season. The winter weather is finally loosening its grip. The rivers are breaking up, the grass is starting to poke through the snow patches on south-facing slopes, and bears are crawling out of their dens. Yet my favorite part of spring is shed antler hunting.

Deer, elk, and moose go through the annual ritual of losing last year’s antlers in late winter and begin to grow new bone through spring and summer. This cycle starts after the breeding period when the bucks and bulls drop testosterone, signaling the beginning of the shedding of their antlers. The pedicel, or point where the antler meets the skull, degrades and eventually the antler drops off, usually one at a time.

Shed hunting or antler hunting or horn hunting (even though antlers aren’t horns) is the spring search for these castoffs after the snowmelt. Shed hunting has boomed in popularity in recent years as more people have realized the benefit of outdoor spring exercise — and the thrill of finding a castoff antler. Here are some tips for getting started.

Know the Range

Deer and elk have historic areas they use for different aspects of their life: breeding grounds, summer feed, winter feed, etc. Paying attention to where you see the male animals in winter will give insight into where to start your search in spring. It’s important to note that animals are stressed during the winter more than at any other time of year. They’re weakened from the long, cold several months of just trying to get by in many areas. For this reason, several states have made it illegal to go into winter ranges before a certain date. Check state law before you make off for the mountains.

Find the Feed

If you’ve done your homework and seen some deer or elk wintering, that’s a great place to start looking. Animals try to winter where getting to feed is easiest for them, and they need to spend more time searching for food due to the stressors of winter. By becoming familiar with an animal’s food sources and at what time of year they’re using each source, a person can find spots to look for dropped antlers based on what’s on the menu.

Break Into the Bedroom

After feeding, animals spend the most significant portion of their day in their beds, resting and digesting their food. Looking for bedding areas that are close to feeding spots will pay off for the patient antler hunter. Most animals bed in fairly thick cover, so bedding areas can require more patience to work through but provide just as much opportunity at an antler as a food source.

Run Fences

Another place to check frequently are fence lines. As antlers loosen on the skull, a sudden jolt, such as jumping a fence, can jar them from their owner, leaving the patient and observant walker a chance at finding them. My son found his first matched set of deer antlers this way. After picking one up in a field, he started to walk the adjacent fence lines until he found the first antler’s mate tucked in the grass by a barbed wire fence.

Bring the Binos

Investment in a good pair of binoculars can pay dividends as well, depending on the country a shed antler hunter frequents. Instead of walking all over that big field or mountainside, get above or across from it and use your glass to pick it apart. In the early to mid-spring, the new grass hasn’t grown up enough to obscure most freshly shed antlers, allowing a detail-conscious person to find them from afar.

Know Your Colors

It’s important to note that the length of time the antler has been lying on the ground and its location can determine the color. An antler shed on a south-facing slope, exposed to the sun, will turn white within a year, making it easier to see — whereas one lying in the shade on a north-facing slope with limited sun may stay mostly brown up to a year or more. This can be a clue to determine how long ago an antler was shed.

Freshly dropped antlers have pink or bloody pedicels, due to the recent separation, and can carry a unique aroma of the vegetation the deer or elk was rubbing on before they shed. Year-old antlers have begun to turn or are totally white due to sun bleaching but are smooth and haven’t begun to develop exterior faults. After more than a year in the sun, antlers naturally begin to break down, soften, and crack. Once they get to this stage, they’re sometimes referred to as “chalk” due to their propensity to leave white pieces in one’s hand after handling.

Antlers are all unique in their own way, like the many reasons people have for picking them up. Some like the exercise, some the challenge of finding bigger ones than last year, while others may depend on the collection and selling of antlers as part of their yearly income. Whatever your reason, get out and incorporate some of these tips with your own ideas and enjoy searching for some brown gold.

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“Survival Bows And Who Should Consider Owning One” was the topic of my previous article and we talked about exactly what a survival bow was good for and where they excelled in the world of archery. We even mentioned that such bows may slowly start to be renamed the “compact modern longbow” and as such form a new segment of the archery market more widely accepted than a weapon thought to be useful purely as a survival tool.

Today however we deal with one of the most widely misconstrued perceptions of what makes a good survival bow. In order to do this we need to take a look at the industry benchmark for what is believed to be a good bow and that is of course no other than the compound bow.

We also need to look at a few other options to compare to and this is where more traditional bows such as the recurve bow, the longbow and the compact modern longbow come into play.

I have many a time come across forums filled with pages and pages of people discussing (and sometimes even arguing) about what the best bow for a survival or SHTF situation would be. There is a somewhat clear divide in opinion on what the answer to this question is and it generally comes from two very distinct camps of people.

The first camp is a camp of people who seem to be more open minded. People who like to question things and make their own opinions based on extensive research and personal experience, as well as the actual experience of others. They ask questions, debate with fair reasoning and seem to have experienced the use of many types of bows and equipment suited to the outdoors. They seem to be more experienced in the outdoors in general and have a wealth of knowledge of what it means to be an outdoorsman. It is this camp that seem to be more open minded toward considering a more traditional bow such as a recurve bow or compact modern longbow for a survival or SHTF situation.

The second camp of people seem to be more set in their thinking. They seem to be more biased in their approach to the debate and almost exclusively seem to have little real world outdoors experience other than their annual 200 yard walk to their tree-stand for the yearly whitetail hunt. Added to this they deem any bow other than a compound bow to be substandard, almost without exclusion and with further prodding it normally comes out that that is all they have ever shot.

It is no wonder that newcomers to the world of “survival archery” can be so confused when it comes to choosing a bow for a survival or SHTF situation and its time to put some thoughts on the table and take a look at the pros and cons of what makes a good survival bow and then discuss which type of bow may be better between a more traditional bow and a compound bow. For the purposes of this article we are going to look specifically at takedown bows (recurves, longbows and compact modern longbows) vs compound bows:

Let’s first take a look at what attributes make for an ideal survival bow. Survival bows need to be:

• Powerful enough to hunt game the size of deer and antelope.
• Accurate enough to take small game such as rabbit, squirrel and medium to large birds.
• Durable enough to last a lifetime
• Easy to maintain
• Easy to transport and free up your hands for other tasks or to carry other equipment such as rifles for self defense.
• Light enough to allow for carry of other necessary equipment
• Simple enough to require no or minimal tools
• Adaptable enough to allow for multiple users or unit members both left and right handed

Those who are trained and experienced in the outdoors in a wide variety of skillsets including survival, hunting, tactical, backpacking, etc will quickly appreciate ALL of the points above. You see a survival or SHTF situation would incorporate most if not all of these skillsets and not just a hunting skillset. That is why I am kicking off this “debate” with a list of “What would make for an ideal survival bow?”

Now let’s move on to compare takedown bows and compound bows against this list of points.

The Compound Bow definitely has plenty of power and is as accurate as bows come, but when it comes to durability one has to question them by considering the amount of moving parts involved as well as just how “fragile” these parts are when it comes to the bow taking knocks and bumps when spending extended time off the beaten path. Personally if I had to make it through a SHTF situation I would not feel terribly comfortable putting it through even the smallest amount of hardship I may encounter on my journey, especially if I wanted it to last a lifetime.

Ease of maintenance is also a big issue when it comes to a SHTF scenario. One usually requires special tools and jigs to restring and maintain a bow and you certainly won’t be able to carry those around with you. Sure you may have these at home, but if you had to move you would have a problem.

Ease of transport is another big disadvantage to compound bows. Unless you are strapping them to your backpack (which increases the risk of damaging them) you will either need to leave it at a basecamp or carry it in your hand and that not only reduces the tasks you can accomplish and where you can travel, but it will certainly become a nuisance at some stage. Imagine trying to move through thick underbrush or climb up banks or swim across a river. Certainly not ticking the box of easy to transport.

From a tools perspective you will be fine so long as you don’t need to change or maintain anything, but scene as this is a bow that is needed to last a lifetime, you will at some stage need those tools and as mentioned above you will at some stage have issues.

And finally, the last point of allowing for multiple users. A compound bow is great in that it allows for various poundages to be dialled in on the same bow. Which is great right? The drawback is that it allows for either a left or a right handed archer, not both and therefore cannot be used in an ambidextrous way. Luckily most archers are right handed so this point is less important than others above.

The Takedown Bow segment has three main categories in the form of the takedown recurve, the takedown longbow and the compact modern longbow such as the SAS Tactical Survival Bow and the SAS Recon Folding Survival Bow (soon to launch at the writing of this article) from Survival Archery Systems.

Each of these 3 types of takedown bows has its own unique attributes which we shall summarize briefly against each of the points on our list.

Bow power is something that is misunderstood when it comes to actual takedown ability. Native North Americans were harvesting bison, elk, moose and deer with bows in the 30#-40# range and it all comes down to arrow placement and blood-loss. If you hit your quarry with any bow 45# and up in the vitals it is pretty much game over. There is enough penetration power to cause enough blood-loss that the quarry will go down. What is important thereafter is your ability to track the quarry after having given it enough time to bleed-out. So takedown bows are a good choice for a survival or SHTF situation for sure.

The accuracy of takedown bows whilst not as good as that of a compound, is generally good enough for small game if you have put in the practice. Don’t think you can just stuff a takedown bow in your bag, whip it out and shoot a squirrel at 30 yards when you get hungry; you will learn a hard lesson. Takedown bows, unless fitted with a well sighted sighting system take practice to learn to shoot with an instinctive style. Other than that they are accurate enough to do the job and thus tick the box.

Durability of takedown bows with respect to real world abuse is orders better than that of a compound bow as you typically only have 3 major parts securely bolted together. The riser and two limbs. Wooden limbs and wooden risers typical of many takedown recurves and longbows are not as durable as composite limbs such as those used on compact modern longbows such as the SAS Survival Bow range, so choose carefully. Composite materials are not only stronger than wood, but can weather out the elements such as rain, sunshine, heat and cold and generally last much, much longer. Wooden products require much care whilst composite materials can take substantially more abuse.

Aluminum is also a great riser material as it has very stable mechanical properties that engineers can use to accurately develop bows to ensure they are working well below material fatigue limits, thereby ensuring your bow will last a lifetime. This is important to remember; if a manufacturer does not claim to have designed a bow using engineering principles then beware, because it normally means designs are more based on touchy-feely shape decisions rather than on structural integrity through material selection and detailed analysis.

Ease of maintenance is up next and again, takedown bows require very little maintenance and just a tool or two at most. Wood certainly requires maintenance to keep it in good condition, but composite limbs and aluminum risers require little to no maintenance at all. You also don’t need special tools for compact modern longbows such as the SAS bows, but for recurves and longbows you will generally need a stringer and an allen key or two.

When it comes to multiple users takedown bows generally cannot account for different poundage needs from users. You are pretty much stuck with one poundage unless you are carrying spare limbs around with you. Recurves and longbows with cutouts restrict left and right hand usage with the same bow, but compact modern longbows with non-cutout shapes such as that on SAS Survival Bows allow for both left and right hand usage by simply swapping the bow between hands.

Lastly, let’s talk about transport ability and weight. This is where the big gamechanger comes in when it comes to choosing a bow for survival. Takedown bows are all comparatively light enough for easy transport when you have other gear you need to ruck around. From a packability point of view they are even better, because they can fit into large backpacks which not only helps protect them, but get them out of your hand. Compact modern longbows are the most compact of the lot and can even fit into one-day packs if they are shorter than the magic number of 21″.

Straight limb bows such as longbows and compact modern longbows pack down much better than recurve bows do and take up much less space. Recurve and longbow limbs are usually quite a bit longer than compact modern longbow limbs so are only compatible with very large backpacks, but all takedown bows are much more suited than a compound bow to a SHTF scenario.

This is super, super important to understand when making a decision on buying a bow for survival. Skilled and experienced outdoorsmen with all the skills we spoke about earlier will tell you that having a bow that can easily fit in a backpack is pretty much the crux of your decision. Why, you ask? Well its like what my dad used to tell me when I was a kid trying to do stuff in the workshop and I had a whole bunch of tools I was trying to use, “Put that down and use both hands boy.” He was right and it comes down to freeing your hands up. It makes almost everything you do so much easier.

Like carrying a rifle if you are in a tactical survival situation for instance. Or how about dragging your bike rack deer back to camp? Climbing, swimming, hand-to-hand combat, running with a pack; the list goes on.

Having the ability to get your bow out the way is in my opinion THE most important attribute of a bow for survival and this is exactly why Survival Archery Systems developed its patented SAS Tactical and Recon Folding Survival Bows. They not only pack down very, very compact, but they are the only bow on the market that has a solution for the transport and protection of your takedown arrows. Our customer’s feedback speaks for itself and the number of repeat sales purchased for friends and family seals our opinion on why we believe that the SAS Survival Bows should be your bow of choice if you are looking for a compact, silent bow for survival that will not only last a lifetime but will do the job you need it to do, each and every time.

Well I hope that helps you in your decision in which bow to choose.

To get more info and get yourself one of the very popular SAS Survival Bows for your bugout or survival bag click this link now – https://www.survivalarcherysystems.com/products/survival_bow.

Venison is already delicious and nutritious in itself, but when mixed with pork fat, you can bring even more flavor out of your deer meat.

It’s especially great for burgers, meatloaf, meatballs, and every hunters favorite: snack sticks and sausage!

In this article I’ll go over the best pork-to-venison ratios, when you should mix with beef fat, and a few other helpful tips.

This page contains affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.

Table of Contents

• How Much Pork To Mix With Venison
• What Do You Mix With Deer When Grinding?
• Why Do You Mix Pork Fat With Deer Meat When Grinding?
• What Kind of Pork Do You Mix With Deer Meat?
• How Do You Mix Venison and Pork?
• Final Thoughts
• Sources

How Much Pork To Mix With Venison

You should mix roughly 30% pork fat with venison when making snack sticks, venison sausage should have up to 50% pork fat, and venison burgers and meatballs need only contain about 20% pork fat. The amount of pork fat you need to mix with venison varies depending on the dish you’re making.

What Do You Mix With Deer When Grinding?

You should mix pork and beef fat with deer when grinding. These act as binding agents and flavor enhancers during the grinding process to compensate for the low moisture content of the lean game meat.

The choice and amount of meat to be added typically varies by personal preference. However, it would be best to read up on established golden ratios and meat-venison mixtures to enjoy your favorite ground venison dishes.

You can opt to mix beef fat with venison to make a patty or meatloaf more cohesive or to enjoy juicy snack sticks that would instead feel dry if you stick with pure venison.

If you are sort of a food connoisseur, you may notice, though, that the overall texture and juiciness of the beef-venison combination lacks refinement, in which case, you may want to try mixing it with pork.

Ground pork fat functions similarly to beef fat when mixed with venison, although you might observe a more savory mix when using pork.

An essential factor to watch out for and consider would be the source of pork fat that you mix with venison.

For instance, fat from pork belly may contain too much flavor and could overpower the deer meat.

You will not want this if you are more inclined to highlight venison’s flavor than the former in the ground meat mix.

Meanwhile, opting for back fat may provide you with just the right chewy texture without compromising the authentic venison taste.

Why Do You Mix Pork Fat With Deer Meat When Grinding?

Mixing pork fat with venison provides moisture, flavor, and cohesion to your venison grounds and a soft texture that outperforms beef fat. Additionally, venison is generally lean meat, so it needs pork fat to bind the venison grounds together.

Otherwise, you may find yourself struggling to cook pure venison patties that easily break apart.

Purists may find this problematic, thinking that precious venison meat deserves to be enjoyed free from other types of red meat that are not as lean or healthy.

The thing about the lean nature of venison is that it makes it challenging to prepare several other meat-based dishes without compromising quality.

However, if only you can toss just the right amount of pork fat into your grinder, you can expect a marbly grind that closely resembles the most common patties – beef patties.

The combination of flavorful pork fat and venison also results in a delectable ground mix. When ground, the combination of juicy pork and deer meat leaves you satisfied while also free from the greasy after-taste that comes with, say, beef.

Sausages with the perfect pork fat to venison ratio coupled with the ideal preparation steps can leave you wanting more. Besides the seasoning added to the pork and venison mix, the pork fat itself already adds flavor to your deer meat.

The moisture extracted from different types of pork cuts, such as bacon and belly, makes the entire meal even more satisfying.

The lean nature of venison makes it quickly dry out during meal prep, so the extra fat accords you with the juiciness necessary to enjoy delicious – but dry – meat.

Imagine indulging in protein-rich, saporous venison snack sticks with a hint of bacon. It seems like it could not get any better.

What Kind of Pork Do You Mix With Deer Meat?

As mentioned earlier, to enhance the juiciness and taste of venison, a certain amount of pork fat is needed. So, it’s best to add pork cuts that contain high-fat content in your grind.

Deciding on the pork cut to use depends on the taste of the end product you want. Do you want to retain the gamey taste without the dryness, or would you prefer one with a hint of pork flavor?

You can mix deer meat with any kind of pork, including pork butts or shoulders or a higher fat pork belly. Butts and shoulders are milder in flavor, while pork belly gives you a more pronounced pork taste. It depends on your preference.

If you want the unadulterated taste of venison, grind it together with pork butts or shoulders. These pork cuts are located at the front end of the pig and contain high-fat contents.

However, if you don’t mind a more domesticated taste, go for the pork belly. This slightly more pricey cut is located in the pig’s underside and is where bacon comes from.

It also has a high-fat content and that distinct pork taste that will undoubtedly influence your venison grind.

Meanwhile, back fat provides your ground venison with a soft and chewy texture, perfect for sausages and meatballs.

How Do You Mix Venison and Pork?

To mix venison and pork, start by ensuring the meats are chilled. This will help with handling and grinding. Next, find a ratio of pork to venison that works for your tastes and then grind them separately before mixing them together into a uniform mound. Finally, add any spices at the end to taste.

The amount of pork you add with venison depends on the kind of meal you plan to prepare. You’ll want to experiment on the correct pork to venison ratio and source of pork fat that you will be using.

Different types of pork fat contain varying moisture and flavor, so consider this when deciding whether to opt for savory belly fat or the more low-key back fat.

For venison sausages, you would want a more fatty venison grind. As such, I suggest mixing at least 20% pork fat with 80% venison. Of course, you can go higher than this, depending on your taste.

Just remember that eating sausages with a fat content higher than 50% can make you feel lethargic.

Venison snack sticks are a versatile outdoor treat typically marketed to hunters that may coincidentally hunt for game. If you want to have that extra money for that cool new hunting gear, you can save on buying snack sticks by making them on your own.

You can make venison snack sticks using 100% venison, but most prefer adding a little bit of pork into it (around 30%) to achieve a certain degree of juiciness. Just make sure you have the time to make them before your next hunt.

Lastly, if you’re into burgers, meatballs, and meatloaves, you may want to try burger patties made of venison. Again, you’ll just have to add a little bit of fat to prevent it from drying out and crumbling during the cooking process.

As with patties made of beef, the fat content is essential to grind the meat. Always remember that venison is leaner than beef, and you may want to add a little more fat than you would wish to on your beef patties.

The safe bet is to go for 20% fat to make the taste of your patties richer.

Pro Tip: I always prefer to grind my venison semi-frozen, after it’s been thawed out. This keeps the meat cold, and prevents your grinds from getting too wet or juicy,

Final Thoughts

One of the most rewarding aspects of hunting is the processing of your own game meat. I highly recommend you give it a try.

You May Also Like: Buck, Buck, Moose: Wild Game Cook Book

If you prefer to use your local game processor or butcher, that’s fine too. Just ask them to add some pork fat to your ground venison, and you’ll have a versatile ingredient that can replace nearly any ground beef recipe.

Thanks for reading!

See Also: Why Eating Does Vension Sometimes Give Me Gas?

• Neem Oil Deer Repellent: Does It Really Work?
• Is It Okay To Burn Bark In a Wood Stove?
• Do Deer Eat Morel Mushrooms?
• How To Properly Dispose of Wood Stove Ashes (Safely!)
• Is Fatwood Safe for Wood Stoves? Here’s What You Should Know
• Is Beaver Good to Eat? You May Be Surprised!
• Is Bread Bad For Deer? Here’s What You Should Know
• Are Roosters Good to Eat?
• 3 Easy Ways To Tell If Your Wood Stove Is Leaking

Sources

• Fox Valley Foodie: How To Butcher a Deer – Grinding Venison
• Legendary Whitetails: The Key to Crafting a Better Venison Burger
• Allied Kenco Sales: Wild Game Sausage Making Information Sheet
• Nassau Foods: Preparing the Perfect Venison
• Home Kitchen Talk: Pork to Venison Ratio for Summer Sausage
• Home Kitchen Talk: How Much Pork Fat to Add to Venison Sausage?
• North American Whitetail: How to Grind Whitetail Deer Venison

I’ve always loved Halloween, and I usually do something “seasonal” when it comes around. As a disclaimer, I have to tell you that if you’re one of my vegetarian or vegan friends, you’ll probably want to skip this one. If you eat meat, and you appreciate the interesting odd tidbit, you may find it interesting, as I did.

Most of you will know that there are a lot of deer in America, and that human-deer conflicts from overpopulation can be an issue in some places. In a way we’ve created a new, almost perfect habitat for wild creatures to find food. We all know racoons are adept at opening garbage cans. Squirrels love nuts, but also don’t mind a slice of old pizza.

Bears (on my mind as I’m getting ready for an off-grid trip into the British Canadian Wilderness as I write this) are well known for being adaptive carnivores. And, as my hosta-growing neighbors can tell you, an urban garden and landscaping is a just a giant, 24-hour salad bambi bar.

I’m not even going to try to tackle arguments for or against urban hunting/culling, overpopulation, or the destruction that deer can rue unchecked on local ecology (the more pressing discussion as opposed to ethics, in my mind).

Those arguments are far too deep, sprawling, and often too opaque to cover in 1000 words or so. I do believe that the actions of man have made it so that the population needs to be kept in check, but what the most efficient and humane way to go about that is a gladiatorial arena of opinions and emotions for some.

The reality is that plenty of urban areas have deer culls, and will continue to for the foreseeable future (one location I reference used their cull to donate 8,600 pounds of venison to food shelves-a good byproduct I think). What I’m talking about today involves something much more focused on the meat of deer itself, and the timeline at which they’re harvested.

In Wisconsin and Minnesota, the deer season runs (roughly here, including archery) from late September to mid November. In places where urban deer culls are held, the season may not be in the fall, it might be later in the winter, or nearly spring, or, as in the case of the cull at U-M Dearborn I link to at the end of this post, over Spring break.

Mating season of deer should be around October-Dec. When a hunter harvests a doe, the last thing they probably think about is if she’d been with a buck. If you harvest and butcher one of those does in the spring though, the butchery can be, ahem, more interesting.

So, just so happens I have a friend in Virginia that participates in his local urban deer cull, and it’s in the spring. And, for the past few years, the does he’s harvested have had some extra baggage in their unborn fetuses. So, he sent me one to cook. Thanks Mark.

I’ve always been fascinating by the odd, unusual edible, and, I’m also a passionate consumer of offal and organ meats, so, it’s honestly right up my alley. What I really wanted to know though, was if there was a tradition of eating unborn animals around the world I could find. Besides a casual Reddit mention, I can’t.

But, humans, enterprising beings that we are, have undoubtedly eaten them, although the only historical anecdote I’ve come across is Indigenous people cooking buffalo fetus for the elderly who have problems chewing. At the end of the day, meat, is meat.

Unpacking the cooler my friend overnighted me, I found a little vacuum sealed bag with what looked to be a squirrel inside. For all intents and purposes, I’d assume you could cook a small fetus of similar animals of similar size as you would any small game. And small game is exactly what my unborn deer tasted like.

What does it taste like?

The big question. If you can get past the aversion, which, is, to be blunt, an inculturalized phobia other (non-American) people around the world probably wouldn’t have a problem eating, a deer fetus cooks up like a squirrel or other very small game, and tastes like meltingly tender deer veal. I found it mild, extremely tender and pleasant.

Imagine eating the most tender confit you’ve ever had. It is in no way strong tasting like organ meats or offal. I ate all of it’s organs to compare them with other small game, and found them near-identical to rabbit and squirrel offal in taste, which are all mild and delicious. I often compare small game offal to poultry organs (chicken, pigeon etc) as their size and taste is pretty similar.

Other notes

The proto-skin

Everything is mini, and in the process of being formed at this stage, including the skin, which feels a bit like a layer of translucent fat, and, although it won’t render out anything noticeable, at least from my experience, seems to really insulate the meat and keep it extremely moist. it was delicious, and seemed to melt into the meat per caul fat.

The tiniest of bones

One hurdle will cooking small game is that the bones can be tiny and hard to keep track of. With rare exception, I do not like bones in my soup and I find it off-putting, as will any average dinner guest.

That being said, as it was the size of a large squirrel, it wasn’t going to make a huge meal. With the higher proportion of bones, barbecuing it and slapping it on a bun wasn’t going to work, so I turned to a classic small game recipe: the ol’ Brunswick stew.

Brunswick stew is traditionally made with different types of small game, so it worked out just fine. To bulk the meat out I added 2 smoked pigeons from the freezer, rounded it with some of my favorite heirloom tepary beans from Romona Farms.

I also replaced the now common ketchup or barbecue sauce with a dash of birch syrup and some canned tomatoes. It made for one of the most interesting meals of small game I’ve had to date. If I’ll do it again, I don’t know.

Further Reading

VA Urban Archery Season

Deer Culling in Philadelphia

Spring Break Deer Cull

Nikon scopes have been frontrunners in the very profitable market of rifle scopes for decades.

However, Nikon abruptly changed its stance a few years ago, abandoning hunting, and rifle scopes, entirely.

This change has left many suppliers and loyal customers worried about the future of their products, myself included.

Let’s look at why the company chose to leave the rifle scope market.

I’ll explain what this means for Nikon’s customers and what optical products are still offered by their sport optics division.

Does Nikon Still Make Riflescopes?

As of 2022, Nikon is no longer in the rifle scope business.

Nikon wanted to distance itself from the hunting and weapons crowd, focusing on more consumer-friendly products and multi-purpose range finders.

It makes sense to discontinue their entry-level and mid-level range of scopes despite being a very profitable market.

This allows the company to divert its focus to its main product: cameras. Still, they will not leave the outdoor community entirely.

They will simply no longer carry weapon-mounted sights.

Is It Impossible to Buy Rifle Scopes?

While you can’t order Nikon’s scopes straight from the company, you can still buy any unsold models from a registered Nikon optics dealer.

Nikon migrated all their supply to third-party resellers to get rid of their current stock..

I’ve had to buy some Nikon scopes from outside sellers; fortunately, they still work as if they were brand new.

Once their supply has been exhausted, no new sniper scope will be made available.

Why Has Nikon Stopped Making Rifle Scopes?

In 2019, Nikon announced that it would leave the rifle scope market completely, selling off its remaining rifle scope line products to companies on its Focused Dealer Direct Program.

This shift in the distribution model from the traditional wholesale supply chain to the registered dealer-only program is one of two factors cited by a Nikon rep for the company’s departure from the rifle scope business.

Aside from open supply chain issues, the Nikon rep named the market itself and the fact that Nikon wanted to distance itself from it as one of the two factors that caused the company to abandon the line.

Sniping products have brought great shares to the company, but their scope lines have been making less and less money through the years as the competition grows fiercer.

The company had also received negative publicity over the use of its products in big game hunting.

This cuts into their bottom line and affects the sale of their other, more lucrative products.

These factors have led to the company’s internal decision to discontinue the production and distribution of weapon-mounted products.

How Does This Affect Current Nikon Scope Owners?

Nikon migrated their remaining stock of entry-level and mid-level range scopes to their accredited companies for reselling.

The company sees that focusing on more profitable product families makes sense.

I know I felt disappointed about this as I loved using Nikon’s scopes in the past.

Don’t worry, though. Fans of Nikon-produced optic products need not feel abandoned.

Plenty of companies still carry any needed replacement parts, and the company promises to honor customer commitments.

Still, it will take loyal users some adjustments as they look for different scope brands moving forward.

It’s unfortunate that many fans have sworn off Nikon because of this perceived betrayal.

Can I Still Buy Nikon Rifle Scopes?

The shift from the traditional wholesale supply chain distribution model to the registered dealer-only program has forced Nikon to cut its losses and return to cameras.

This, plus their effort to clean up their image and deviate from an extremely competitive industry, means that their sporting optics division (binoculars, spotting scopes, etc.) will be left without a rifle scope.

Thanks to the focused Dealer Direct Program, you can still find, and buy, any Nikon product you need!

That said, Nikon abruptly changed course without recalling and disposing of every rifle scope.

There is still PLENTY of current inventory available at any registered Nikon optics dealer.

You can find and purchase Nikon scope models and accessories through third-party sources.

If you don’t think Nikon scopes are for you, there are a lot of other scopes at affordable prices for you to check out!

Do Nikon Scopes Have a Lifetime Warranty?

While it may be impossible for hunters to look forward to a new rifle scope line from Nikon, warranty worries should be the least concern for long-time Nikon users.

The company has promised to continue offering and honoring lifetime warranties for any Nikon-produced scope.

Though Nikon does not plan on returning to the rifle scope business, it does plan to take care of any users who enjoy its extremely competitive rifle scopes.

The company announced that their rifle scopes are covered by a five-year limited lifetime warranty.

That gives me some reassurance, at least!

Fortunately, one of my Nikon scopes was still covered by the warranty, so no harm done despite the discontinuation of their scopes.

It encourages these scope users to continue using Nikon’s spotting scopes, cameras, and other shooting equipment.

Nikon Alternatives to Consider

Since Nikon is no longer in the rifle scope market, there are other brands you can turn to instead.

These brands work just as well as Nikon’s scopes, so you can’t go wrong with these alternative brands.

1. Leupold

Leupold is known for offering rifle scopes with high durability and affordable pricing.

My experience with Leupold scopes has been nothing but enjoyable, from their SUPER clear optics and ruggedness.

You can definitely trust this brand as it’s been in the business for over 100 years! They definitely know what they’re doing.

2. Vortex Optics

Vortex is one of the newer kids on the block, but their scopes have Leupold and Nikon beat in the pricing department.

You get EXCELLENT quality with contrasting colors and you don’t have to spend a fortune!

Plus, they also come with a lifetime warranty, so you have nothing to worry about.

3. Bushnell

Bushnell is another TOP-TIER company that produces precision optics that are great for large and small game.

And it’s not just scopes!

If you want to expand your outdoor gear, you can find high-quality red dots, rangefinders, and spotting scopes

Final Words

Nikon really cemented itself as one of the best rifle scope manufacturers ever.

While Nikon rifle scopes may be off the table, Nikon continues to offer its more profitable product families, whether they be cameras, binoculars, range-finders, or other scope products.

Logger boots are more than just footwear—they’re your companions in the great outdoors. From shielding your feet against falling debris to ensuring they’re firmly grounded on rough and uneven terrain, these boots provide the ultimate protection for your feet. In this article, you’ll find the best logger boots on the market that offer unmatched protection and style.

Why Do You Need Logger Boots?

Logging workers have some of the highest injury and fatality rates of any occupation. This high risk of injuries makes it essential for loggers to wear boots that offer maximum protection.

For this reason, logger boots generally have reinforced steel toe caps that offer protection against falling objects, such as branches or logs. These protect your feet from any potential impact and crushing injuries.

Additionally, logger boots make logging work less strenuous by providing comfort through good arch support, cushioning, and even moisture-wicking materials. These features reduce foot fatigue when worn for extended periods.

Comfort, longevity, and protection make a logger boot absolutely essential for anyone working in harsh conditions.

The Best Logger Boots

• Best Overall Logger Boots: Georgia Men’s G7313 Logger Boot
• Best Low-Heel Logger Boots: Georgia Men’s Low-Heel Logger Boot
• Best Waterproof Logger Boots: Carhartt Men’s 8″ Logger Boot
• Best Logger Boots for Winter: Chippewa Men’s 9″ Logger Boot
• Best Steel-Toe Logger Boots: Irish Setter Men’s Mesabi Logger Boots
• Best Composite Toe Logger Boots: Timberland PRO Men’s Rip Saw Logger Boot
• Best Logger Boots On A Budget: AdTec Men’s 9” Super Logger Boots
• Best Women’s Logger Boots: Chippewa Women’s 8″ Boots
• Best Slip-On Logger Boots: ARIAT Men’s Powerline Pull-on Boots
• Best Logger Boots Made in the USA: Thorogood Men’s Logger Series 9” Work Boots
• Best Logger Boots for Spring: WOLVERINE Men’s DuraShocks Waterproof Boots

Best Overall Logger Boots – Georgia Men’s G7313 Logger Boot

Available at:

The Georgia G7313 logger boot is the brand’s most popular shoe and is my pick for the best logger shoe overall.

These steel-toe logging boots have one of the best waterproof designs I’ve seen. Built with the Georgia Waterproof System, they repel 100% of the water that tries to get inside. You could wade through ankle-deep water in these and still have completely dry feet.

Features

1. Georgia® Waterproof System
2. Abrasion-resistant rubber outsole
3. Goodyear® welt construction
4. Full-grain leather
5. Steel shank

Pros

• Highly waterproof
• Fashionable look
• Excellent traction
• Stable boot structure
• Maximum impact protection
• Fits true to size

Cons

• Take longer to break in

What People Are Saying

A buyer raved about their spectacular traction on all surfaces and commended the waterproof design of the boots.

Another user stated that “I had tried on boots from various manufacturers, and these were the best boots I had owned.“

Best Low-Heel Logger Boots – Georgia Men’s Low-Heel Logger Boots

Available at:

My top pick for a low-heeled logger is the Georgia low-heeled boot. The boot makes up for the short heel with an oil and slip-resistant outsole that enhances traction and grip in uneven, slippery terrains.

The boot features a composite safety toe to protect your feet from any injury. It’s equipped with a waterproof system that protects moisture from seeming into your boots.

Features

1. 1″ heel
2. Georgia® Waterproof System
3. Tempered steel shank
4. Oil and slip-resistant rubber lug outsole
5. Heel-stabilizing Counter Lock
6. Ergo-Fit safety toe
7. AMP LT insole with memory foam

Pros

• Versatile and fashionable
• Highly waterproof
• Anti-slip outsoles offer great traction
• Very comfortable
• Composite Toe Cap offers protection

Cons

• Not well insulated
• Can wear out quicker due to lower heel

What People Are Saying

A user commended the boot’s comfort, quality, and durability.

Another buyer commented, “I was highly impressed with the traction offered by this boot. It allowed me to easily hike over extremely steep slopes without falling.

Best Waterproof Logger Boots – Carhartt Men’s 8″ Logger Boot

Available at:

My top pick for waterproof logger boots is the Carhartt Men’s 8” Logger. This boot features the Storm Defender waterproof membrane that keeps your feet dry while ensuring breathability.

This logger boot also has great traction due to its oil and slip-resistant outsoles. The 3M Thinsulate insulation inside the shoe also offers warmth and comfort.

Features

1. Carstrong® durable reinforced fabric
2. Storm Defender® waterproof breathable membrane
3. Composite toe protection
4. Carhartt Heel Stabiliser
5. Goodyear welt-constructed rubber outsole
6. Electric protection

Pros

• Highly Waterproof
• Insulated for cold weather
• High traction with slip and oil-resistant outsoles
• Great ankle support
• Extremely comfortable

Cons

• Tight toe-box
• Take up to a week to break in

What People Are Saying

One customer commended the boots’ waterproof features and said, “The inside stayed dry even when I went into really deep water.”

Another buyer commented, “These boots exceeded my expectations and provided great ankle support at a reasonable price.”

Best Logger Boot for Winter – Chippewa Men’s 9″ Steel-Toe Logger Boots

Available at:

These Chippewa Loggers are one of the best logging boots you’ll get out there. With 400 grams of Thinsulate insulation, this shoe is truly the top choice for keeping your feet warm in the winter. They are also completely waterproof.

The brand’s Chip-a-Tex waterproof membrane prevents any water or snow from getting inside your boot while ensuring breathability.

Features

1. Chip-A-Tex® waterproof membrane system
2. Steel toe
3. Texon® insoles for cushioning
4. 400 grams of 3M Thinsulate™ Ultra
5. Steel Shank
6. Goodyear® welt construction
7. Vibram® rubber outsole

Pros

• Superior insulating system
• Highly waterproof
• Great traction
• High protection against injuries
• Extremely durable

Cons

• Slightly heavy due to the added insulation
• Runs narrow at the toe

What People Are Saying

“One user stated, “I will only buy Chippewa boots from now on.”

Another reviewer tested these out during the brutal winter conditions in Cleveland, Ohio. They reported, “These shoes are the most comfortable ones I’ve tried in my entire life.”

Best Steel-Toe Logger Boots – Irish Setter Men’s Mesabi Steel-Toe Logger Boots

Available at:

These Irish Setter boots are as safe as they are marketed to be. High-quality steel cap toes offer great protection against heavy falling objects so your toes are always safe.

These boots also have other features that make them a great investment for logging. They come equipped with an UltraDry waterproofing system that stops water from getting inside the shoe.

Features

1. Steel Toe for protection
2. UltraDry™ Waterproofing system
3. Electrical protection
4. Aggressive lug pattern
5. Oil and slip resistant
6. Heat-Resistant Outersole

Pros

• Highly protective safety steel toes
• Waterproof
• Aggressive lugs on outsoles give great traction
• Durable and Reliable

Cons

• Take longer to break in
• May have to size up

What People Are Saying

A logger who worked five days a week for 11 hours in a lumber yard commented, “I found these shoes to be worth every penny.”

Another happy customer commented, “After struggling for years to find boots that fit right, I finally found these Irish Setter boots and couldn’t be happier.”

Best Composite Toe Logger Boots – Timberland PRO Men’s Rip Saw Composite-Toe Logger Boot

Available at:

These Timberland loggers come with a composite safety toe that meets ASTM standards and offers good protection against any heavy falling objects.

The boot also has a puncture-resistant plate that prevents any sharp objects from stabbing in from below.

Features

1. Composite Safety Toe
2. Ever-Guard Leather for abrasion resistance
3. Puncture-resistant plate
4. Waterproof leather and lining
5. Timberland PRO exclusive Independent Suspension Network
6. Anti-Fatigue Technology Comfort System
7. Vibram® Outsoles

Pros

• Composite safety toe caps
• Slip-resistant outsoles for enhanced traction
• Abrasion-resistant uppers
• Good waterproofing system
• Supportive and flexible

Cons

• Laces wear out very fast and are short
• They run slightly large

What People Are Saying

One user commented, “The boot is excellent for all weather conditions and is very good for tree work.”

Another buyer bought them for working on steep hills. “These boots provided spectacular ankle support and comfort.”

Best Logger Boots On A Budget – AdTec Men’s 9” Super Logger Boots

Available at:

Here’s my top pick for the best low-cost logger boot – The AdTec Super Logger. It has all the safety features necessary to protect you from falling objects and tough external conditions.

This boot protects your feet from potential hazards with high-quality steel toe caps, a sturdy build, and a waterproof membrane.

Features

1. Crazy Horse Leather
2. Goodyear Welt Construction
3. BROAD Steel Toe
4. Waterproof Membrane
5. One Piece Logger Sole

Pros

• Affordable
• No compromise on safety and durability
• Minimal break-in period
• Good ankle support

Cons

• Heels may wear out faster than more expensive boots
• Insoles are very thin and uncomfortable

What People Are Saying

One user stated, “The boot was great for the price and offered good support all the way around.”

Another buyer reported, “I consider them to be among the best boots.”

Best Women’s Logger Boots – Chippewa Women’s Tinsley 8″ Steel Toe Boots

Available at:

These logger boots are perfect for women that are on their feet all day doing strenuous work. This boot features the Chippewa waterproof Chip-A-Tex technology that keeps the boots dry.

They also come with 400 grams of Thinsulate to keep you warm in all conditions.

Features

1. Waterproof with Chip-A-Tex Technology
2. 400-gram, 3M Thinsulate Ultra insulation
3. Steel toe meeting ASTM F2413-11 standard
4. 400-gram, 3M Thinsulate Ultra insulation
5. Texon insole
6. Vibram Tacoma yellow plug logger outsole
7. Slip and oil-resistant outsole
8. ASTM electrical hazard rated

Pros

• Waterproof
• Insulated
• Excellent protection against impacts and compression hazards
• Comfortable and supportive fit
• Great traction from slip-resistant outsoles

Cons

• Long break-in time
• Heavy

What People Are Saying

One buyer felt these boots provided the perfect combination of waterproofing, insulation, and steel toe protection.

Another logger who wore them while cutting down trees and digging ditches commented, “The soles gripped rugged terrain like glue. I was pleased with the ankle support of these boots.”

Best Slip-On Logger Boots – ARIAT Men’s Powerline Pull-On Boots

Available at:

The ARIAT powerline loggers are a great choice if you’re looking for work boots you can easily slip on and off.

The boots have a stylish, comfortable design that makes them easy to wear and have high traction, support, and protection.

Features

1. DRYShield™ waterproof construction
2. Oil and slip-resistant Vibram® rubber sole
3. Outdoor traction lugs with debris-releasing tread
4. External heel protector
5. Goodyear leather welt construction
6. Tempered steel shank
7. Composite safety toe

Pros

• Highly waterproof
• Comfortable
• Easy to put on
• Good traction
• Extremely stable and comfortable

Cons

• Very wide uppers make it hard to pull pants down over them

What People Are Saying

One user commented that “the boots perform well and fit comfortably. The composite toe prevented my toes from freezing”

Another buyer raved about the insulation of the boots and their durability.”

Best Logger Boots Made in the USA – Thorogood Men’s Logger Series 9” Waterproof Steel Toe Work Boots

Available at:

The Thorogood Logger Series 9” Waterproof Boot is a top-notch option for those seeking a logger boot made in the USA.

These boots are constructed with high-quality materials, ensuring durability and performance on the job.

Features:

1. Premium full-grain leather
2. American made
3. Vibram® heel outsole
4. Steel toe
5. Aztec lining and ultimate shock absorption
6. Vibram midsole
7. Goodyear storm welt construction
8. Thorogood “job-fitted” design

Pros

• Made in the USA, guaranteeing quality craftsmanship
• Excellent durability and longevity
• Comfortable fit
• Good arch support.
• Waterproof

Cons

• Runs larger than expected
• Long break-in time

What People Are Saying

One buyer commented on the quality of the boots, stating that “the boots are top-notch!”

Another happy customer said “the craftsmanship of these boots is outstanding.”

Best Logger Boots for Spring – WOLVERINE Men’s DuraShocks® Waterproof Boots

Available at:

Finding the right logger boots for spring can be difficult. You want boots that can keep you warm in the chilly spring mornings but don’t have your feet sweating in the hotter mid-day.

After a lot of deliberation, my best pick for logger boots for spring is the Wolverine DuraShocks Steel-Toe boot.

These boots have the right amount of insulation that keeps your feet from sweating but doesn’t freeze your toes off in the morning

Features

1. Wolverine DuraShocks® for shock-absorption
2. 200-gram Thinsulate™ insulation which is perfect for spring
3. Long-lasting Dri-lex® sweat-wicking lining
4. Removable double-density footbed for cushioning and stability
5. Fiberglass shank

Pros

• The right balance of warmth and breathability
• Good arch support
• Excellent durability
• Highly comfortable
• Waterproof

Cons

• Run slightly small

What People Are Saying

One buyer commented on how great the shoes were, and another one really liked their style.

Key Features of a Logger Boot

1. Reinforced Safety Toes

Reinforced toes or safety toe caps are necessary to meet shoe standards and protect the loggers using them.

Logger boots will either have a toe cap made of steel, composite material, or alloy, which protect against injuries.

2. Kiltie

Kilties are pieces of fringed leather sticking out from the bottom of the laces. Kilties are essential for protecting the leather boot from dirt and debris and increasing durability.

3. Raised Heels

Most logger boots have a 2-to-3-inch heel that keeps the foot elevated and provides arch support to the wearer. The heel also makes climbing easier and increases stability.

4. Steel Shanks

A shank is a material inserted between a boot’s insole and outsole to enhance structural integrity and provide arch support and stability.

In logger boots, shanks are most commonly made of steel to provide extra durability and support to the boot and protection for your feet.

5. Deep Lugs

Deep, multidirectional lugs provide the necessary grip and traction on uneven terrains such as mud, dirt, or snow.

How to Choose High-Quality Logger Boots

Here are the key aspects you must consider while choosing logger boots.

1. Waterproof

Logger boots should be waterproof to keep your feet dry and protected, especially if you work in wet and muddy conditions.

2. Durable

Your boots must withstand long hours in challenging terrains immediately without extreme wear and tear.

3. Comfort

When choosing a boot, look for boots with cushioned insoles and ample arch support to minimize fatigue and provide all-day comfort.

4. Warmth

Insulated logger boots are the right way to go if you work in cold environments. Warm logger boots generally have 400g to 600g of Thinsulate material.

5. Breathable

Choose logger boots with breathable materials or moisture-wicking linings to prevent excessive sweating and maintain foot hygiene.

6. Performance to Weight Ratio

Logger boots should offer a balance between performance and weight. Even though extra weight can mean extra protection and warmth, you don’t want to lug around 4kg of boots all day.

FAQs

What’s the best way to tie/lace logger boots?

Logger boots are typically tied the way normal boots are, in the regular criss-cross pattern. However, if you want greater support around your ankles and don’t want the additional hassle of tying your laces up every couple of minutes, you can try other techniques like the heel locking lacing, the 2-1-3 method, and the ladder lacing method.

How long do logger boots last?

Logger boots typically last from about 6 months to a year. However, if they are taken care of properly and don’t go through extreme conditions daily, they can last well over two to three years.

Do logger boots hurt your knees?

Logger boots aren’t supposed to hurt your knees. The boots are designed to prevent fatigue and overuse of your feet, knees, and legs. However, lack of shock absorption and a poor fit in some boots may lead to knee pain for the wearer.

What’s the best value-for-money brand of logger boots made in the USA?

The best value-for-money brand of logger boots made in the USA is Chippewa. Their boots use the highest quality materials and are proven to be extremely durable, comfortable, and long-lasting.

The Bottom Line

Buying the right logger boots doesn’t have to be difficult. Our carefully handpicked selection of the best logger boots should simplify the process and help you choose the right ones for your job.

These exceptional options are designed to meet the rigorous demands of logging work. So pick your favorite logger boot, and step into a world of comfort, durability, and protection. Your feet will thank you!

UPDATED 03 NOVEMBER 2024

by Robert Ceran

Are you an angler wondering how long you can keep your catch fresh while fishing?

A popular solution is to put freshly caught fish on ice, and leave them there until you go home.

But how long can you keep fish on ice, and more specifically, how long will ungutted fish last if you keep it on ice?

Here’s the quick answer:

If fish are bled correctly after catching, they can be stored on ice without gutting for 24-48 hours without negative effects.

After that the quality starts to deteriorate, and you’re better off freezing them instead.

How long can you keep ungutted fish on ice?

If you’re planning to keep freshly caught fish on ice, make sure to bleed the fish first before putting them on ice, which is essential to avoid discoloration of the meat.

You don’t want the blood to coagulate inside the fish, and the only way to avoid that is by bleeding them right after catching.

Once fish have been bled correctly, you can keep them ungutted on ice for 24-48 hours without negative effects on taste.

And after you take them home at the end of the day, you can continue to keep the ungutted fish in the refrigerator for another 24-36 hours.

After that you really need to clean them if you want to avoid deterioration of quality.

How long can you keep ungutted fish without ice?

If you’re fishing in the warm season and don’t have ice with you, you can keep your fish for about half a day before it starts to go bad.

However, you’ll need to bleed and clean the fish right after catching. After that keep them dry and in a shady place, and they will be fine until you go home later that day.

If you want to preserve fish longer than half a day in the summer without ice, then the only option is to salt them.

For this you need to rub a lot of salt inside the body cavity after cleaning, as well as all over the outside.

Remember that once you’re ready to eat the fish, you need to soak them in water to remove as much of the salt as possible.

What’s the best way to keep fish fresh after catching?

Ideally, you’ll want to bleed and gut fresh fish immediately after catching them, and then keep them on ice until you cook them on the same day, or the next day.

Raw fish should only be kept in the fridge for a maximum of 2 or 3 days before eating it. On the other hand, if you freeze fresh fish, this preserves their quality for up to 3-8 months.

However, most anglers don’t have time to gut freshly caught fish, since they want to continue catching more fish.

In that case there are several ways to keep fish fresh while fishing. The best of these is to keep the fish alive, but this is only feasible with small fish that can be kept in a keeper net, or in a bucket of water.

If you can’t keep freshly caught fish alive, the next best option is to store them on ice, or in an ice slurry, which keeps them at a temperature of around 32-40 degrees Fahrenheit (similar to the temperature of a fridge).

This can be done quite easily by taking a cooler box with ice along on your fishing trip, though you need to keep in mind that the ice will melt by the end of the day.

If you’re ice fishing, you’re in luck, since the easiest way to keep the fish fresh is simply by leaving them on top of the ice you’re fishing on.

And if you’re planning to mount your fish, check out our guide on how to preserve fish for taxidermy.

How to bleed fish correctly

As mentioned above, it’s essential to bleed fish before putting them on ice, to ensure they stay fresh as long as possible.

The best way to do this is by cutting deeply behind the gills in a downward motion from top to bottom, as this severs all the main blood vessels that serve the gills.

You should immediately see blood come out, and then just wait 1-2 minutes until it’s done, and then quickly rinse the fish.

Can you freeze ungutted fish?

If you take ungutted fish home, you may be wondering if you can freeze the whole fish and clean them later.

The answer is yes – you can freeze fish without gutting them, and you can keep them like that for several months in the freezer without problems.

However, keep in mind that freezing whole fish is not the best solution, and it’s always better to clean fish before freezing them.

The slow freezing process in a home freezer can lead to rupturing of the stomach, which tends to have a negative effect on the taste of the meat.

Also, when you thaw the fish later on, the internal organs will start to decompose very quickly, which can also have a negative effect on taste. In order to avoid this, try to remove the gut when the fish is still partially frozen.

You should also keep in mind that you can’t refreeze fish that has been thawed, since the thawing process accelerates decomposition.

So if you catch a big fish, it’s better to clean it right away and then freeze it in small portions that you can take out of the freezer individually.

How long before ungutted fish goes bad?

If you bleed ungutted fish and then store them on ice or in the refrigerator, they can be kept for 24-48 hours without quality problems. However, it’s essential to keep fish cool for this.

If you don’t keep them cool, you only have 6-12 hours before ungutted fish goes bad. The reason for this is that bacteria and digestive enzymes inside the gut start to affect the rest of the fish.

How long does fresh caught fish last in the fridge?

Gutted fish can last up to 2 to 3 days in the fridge, while ungutted fish lasts for 1 to 2 days in the refrigerator.

Keep in mind that fish protein is highly perishable, and that a fridge only partially slows down decomposition by bacteria. This happens faster in ungutted fish because their intestines contain bacteria that accelerate decomposition.

Finally, even though you can safely eat fish that has been in the fridge for 2 or 3 days, its flavor and texture start to degrade well before it reaches this deadline, which means it will taste worse the longer you wait.

Because of this, I personally only store fresh fish for a maximum of 24 to 36 hours in the refrigerator before eating it.

How long can you freeze fish before it goes bad?

You can freeze fish for 3 to 8 months before it goes bad, and as a general rule of thumb it will be fine if kept in the freezer for 6 months or less.

And when I say “going bad” I mean deterioration of taste and texture, though it’s safe to eat frozen fish even after 1 to 2 years in the freezer.

Also note that fish with a high fat content (such as trout, mackerel and salmon) degrade faster than lean fish, and you should only keep them in the freezer for a maximum of 3 months to ensure optimal taste.

Final remarks

So in conclusion, it’s always best to bleed and fish right after catching them, and then to gut them as fast as possible.

And following that, you should try to eat or freeze the fish as fast as possible to maintain the quality.

So if you happen to be a “catch and release” angler, you’re probably glad right now because you don’t have to worry about this issue.

Just because you might be legally required to wear an orange hunting vest for the 2024 deer, elk, big game, or upland hunting season doesn’t mean that vest shouldn’t also be useful.

With that in mind, we’ve taken a close look at all different types of safety vests from around the internet to help you find the best for your needs. We found a wide array of camo, reversible, fleece, insulated, and even orange vests for dogs that all fit specific needs and hunting styles.

Some of the more straightforward options have just a few pockets, while others have blood-proof game pouches on the back for you to stash your small game haul. No matter your specific type of hunting, you’ll find a blaze orange vest on this list to keep you moving quietly, highly visible, and ultra-organized.

Because the best hunting brands make the best orange hunting vests, you can expect all the big names here, including Under Armour, Sitka, and Primos. But you’ll also find some high-quality gear from brands that might not immediately ring a bell, too.

Now let’s get ready to rumble.

Best Overall Orange Hunting Vest Sitka Ballistic

Our pick for the best orange hunting vest on the 2024 market is the Sitka Ballistic. It isn’t the most full-featured, nor is it the cheapest, but we certainly think this could be the last vest you ever need.

What you get with the Ballistic blaze vest is a durable, snug-fitting, and quiet vest that won’t encumber your movements.

There’s nothing worse than trying to get a shot lined up only to have your safety orange vest get in the way, or worse yet, make noise as you move and scare off that deer or elk. Some vests can fit loosely and get in the way, but you’ll barely even notice you’re wearing this bad boy.

Aside from its fit, you get a few zippered pockets, an adjustable waist, a magnetic closure for quick removal, and a durable water repellent DWR finish that won’t wet out. You don’t get shotgun shell holders, a game pouch, or a license tag holder, but its fit and functionality crowned it the best orange vest of 2024 in our eyes.

If you want a few more bells and whistles than Sitka offers here, check out the Primos Gunhunter’s vest immediately below.

• Pros: Great fit, zippered and handwarmer pockets, quiet, warm, durable
• Cons: Expensive, not a ton of storage

Feature-Rich Runner Up Primos Gunhunter’s

If you’re looking for the most full-featured orange hunting vest on the market today, the Gunhunter’s from Primos might rank above all others.

Designed for rifle and muzzleloader hunters, you’ll find yourself equally prepared for both big game hunting and small game hunts alike. That’s because Primos included just about every imaginable loop or pocket you need for organizing your gear. With shotgun shell loops, large pockets to store binoculars, a PVC waterproof lining, and many more helpful features, the Primos Gunhunter’s vest will ensure you’re always ready for action.

This vest doesn’t feature a blood-proof game pouch, but if you want something designed specifically for small game like birds and rabbits, the Gamehide Switchgrass below fits the bill. Some hunters also think this vest fits a bit wide, so make sure you’re ordering the correct size, or consider the Ballistic from Sitka above for a more snug fit.

In all, we think this is one of the best blaze hunting vests money can buy, and if you require lots of storage, it’ll probably be the best option for you.

• Pros: Tons of storage, well designed, warm, lining pulls down to create a waterproof seat
• Cons: A bit wide for some, button closures not ideal for everyone, not proper small-game pouch

Our Favorite Full-Zip Safety Vest Under Armour Hunt Blaze

Not everyone wants a thousand pockets to store their stuff like you’ll find in the Primos Gunhunter’s vest. Some of you want a quiet, lightweight option that’ll fulfill your legal requirement and won’t get in the way. Check out the Under Armour Hunt Blaze vest if you’re in that camp.

We love the full-length zipper that keeps it snug, secure, and easy to remove. Its snap dump pockets are also helpful and will keep all your high-use gear close at hand. And, with pass-through hand pockets, you’ll be able to reach through the vest into your jacket pockets to grab whatever you need.

In short, the UA Hunt Blaze vest is a well-designed piece of clothing that’ll keep you safe and legal during big game rifle season. To complete the UA blaze orange combination, pair it with this hat.

• Pros: Durable, lightweight, quiet, pass-through pockets are a great addition, relatively inexpensive
• Cons: Not a lot of storage

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Best Orange Vest for Upland Hunting Gamehide Switchgrass

The absolute best orange upland hunting vest you’ll find in 2024 is the Gamehide Switchgrass. This thing is made for shooting, and it’ll help you bag all the peasants, grouses, turkeys, and whatever other type of small game you’re after.

With padded shoulders, shotgun shell holders, and a blood-proof game bag in the back, you’ll always be prepared to shoot and stash whatever small game you take down. Plus, with its front orange accents and back panel, all of your fellow hunters should have no problems spotting you in the field.

Gamehide constructed the Switchgrass out of a warm canvas material that can stand up to all the rigors of the outdoors, all while keeping your warm and toasty as temperatures drop.

Since this vest is meant to fit over a jacket, it’ll run a bit large, so keep that in mind when ordering.

• Pros: Durable, warm, functional, inexpensive, looks good
• Cons: Not much

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Orange Camo for Big Game Mountain Pass Extreme Big Game

Depending on where you live, you may be able to wear orange camo to fulfill your legal requirement. While it won’t be legal in some areas, this Mountain Pass garment makes for an excellent deer, elk, and moose vest for those states which allow orange camo.

Because it’s made specifically for big game, you get all the pockets and loops you need to carry your gear with you for long days in the field. That includes rifle shell loops, a large kangaroo pouch to hold bigger items, handwarmer pockets, and zippered vertical pockets to hold valuables that you can’t afford to lose. It even has a hunter license holder.

Plus, because big game hunting can get downright cold, it’s windproof and will help keep cold gusts from penetrating your jacket below. It does fit true to size, so make sure you order a size up if you want it to fit over a thick jacket.

Some hunters say this vest appears to reflect UV light, which could alert deer to your presence. Aside from that, we haven’t noticed any other downsides. If you want to avoid any chance of a deer seeing the reflected UV light from this jacket, consider the Gunhunter’s from Primos above.

• Pros: Tons of pockets, hand warmer pouch is great, front zipper makes it easy to take on and off, ammo pockets
• Cons: Back pouch not blood proof, reflects UV light

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Warmest Fleece for Late Seasons Sitka Stratus Windstopper

The other vests on this list are primarily designed to keep your stuff organized and help you fulfill legal requirements, but none are meant to keep you super warm. Enter the Sitka Stratus Windstopper vest.

With a GORE-TEX membrane sandwiched between layers of fleece, this insulated and windproof orange vest shuts down gusts of wind before they’ll ever have a chance to chill your bones. And with a durable water repellent DWR finish, light rain should bead off before it wets out.

Its zippered hand and chest pockets will help keep your gear close at hand, so you don’t have to fumble around for your gear during big game hunts in the freezing cold. If you want the warmest cold-weather orange hunting vest out there, the Sitka Stratus Windstopper might be just what you’re looking for.

In short, hunters love the fit, warmth, and how quiet this vest is, but they wish it were cheaper.

• Pros: Very warm, windproof, water repellent, good looking, great orange color
• Cons: Expensive, not as feature rich as some other vests

Inexpensive Mesh to Make You Legal Orange Aglow Lightweight Mesh

Let’s say that you don’t want an expensive vest with a bunch of pockets. Instead, you want a cheap, lightweight, and packable blaze orange vest that makes you legal and fits well. The Orange Aglow brand has you covered.

This minimalist 3-ounce vest is a no-frills piece of safety clothing that’ll make you easy to see in the field. No more, no less. And, with about 600 square inches of hunter orange, you’ll be well on your way towards legality for the 2024 season.

Though it doesn’t have many features, this vest fits well, secures over larger jackets, and can be used in for the warm weather of the early seasons over a t-shirt.

Looking for an inexpensive, lightweight orange hunting vest? You just found it.

• Pros: Affordable, lightweight, packs down small, 600 square inches of hunter orange
• Cons: No pockets, insulation, or valuable features

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Our Choice for Reversible Orange TrailCrest

Are you averse to orange hunting clothes that are only useful in rifle season? If so, give TrailCrest’s reversible camo and blaze orange vest a close look.

With a full-zip front, you can easily remove this vest and reverse between camo and blaze orange as the seasons and legal requirements change. We also love this vest’s heavy-duty fleece lining, which will help you hunt into the late seasons without freezing your butt off.

That fleece material, while extremely warm, is also very quiet and won’t spook animals as you trudge through the forest looking for your next freezer filler. And, for you out there that want their gear to serve multiple purposes, the camo print is very effective, and the orange on the other side is bright and durable.

Though we love this vest, we wish it had zippered hand pockets. Other than that, we can’t find anything else to nitpick.

• Pros: Reversible and functional, very warm, fits well, reasonably priced
• Cons: No zippered hand pockets

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Youth Hunter Safety Orange Vest TrailCrest Front Loader

Don’t think we forgot about the young whippersnappers out there! Kids also need to wear safe orange clothing when they hunt, just like their parents and grandpappys.

This safe, warm vest has all the features you’d expect from a high-end adult orange hunting vest — but for kids. It features quilted shoulders, shell loops, holes for a hunting license, and even a blood-proof rear game back that can act as a waterproof seat when conditions get soggy.

With the right fit, you can expect your little ones to put this vest to use from the early to late seasons. If you want your young hunter to feel like they’re geared up just like mom and dad are, grab one of these excellent youth vests from TrailCrest.

• Pros: Comfortable, full-featured, blood-proof game pocket, affordable
• Cons: None to report

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Best Orange Dog Hunting Vest Carhartt Pet Harness

If you’ve got a bad-to-the-bone dog that you take on your waterfowl, duck, upland, or any other type of hunt, you might wonder if there are blaze orange vests out there for them. There are, and the best option of 2024 is from Carhartt.

This water-repellent safety jacket will help keep ol’ Fido warm and dry even when he’s out working hard. That’s because it’s made with Carhartt’s Quick Duck canvas and a water-repellent coating to insulate and trap heat while shielding your dog from the harsh elements. Plus, it comes with a pocket, so Fido can stash some cash and pay for his own dinner for a change.

In terms of comfort, it comes in sizes from small to XL, and its hook and lined straps at the chest and waist will ensure that your pup is ready to tackle whatever comes next. This vest comes in all types of colors, too, so if safety orange isn’t your thing, you still have plenty of options.

• Pros: Reflective tape is great for nighttime, repels water well, pocket is handy, durable
• Cons: There are more full-featured dog harnesses out there

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What We Considered When Analyzing Orange Hunting Vests

Like all other products in the world of hunting gear, not all vests are created equal. So, we kept our eyes on a few specific factors to ensure that we indeed have found the best of the best.

Here’s are five of the most important considerations we analyzed when making our choices.

Fit

Maybe the most important factor we considered is how the vest will fit a hunter. Floppy, ill-fitting vests are uncomfortable and will get in your way, so the product you’re after should fit snugly over your clothing and make you easy to see. Simple as that.

Materials

A vest’s materials can make or break its effectiveness in the harsh conditions of late-season hunting. For this reason, we require that all vests on this list utilize durable materials that stay quiet as you move about the field. They should also avoid snags, help protect you from the elements, and have a bright orange finish.

Warmth

Some, but not all of the vests on this list, are made with insulating materials, like fleece to help keep you warm in the late season. Some also utilize GORE-TEX to help repel water and block harsh winds, too.

If you want your vest to help keep you warm, we recommend the Sitka Stratus Windstopper above all others.

Hunting Styles

Each of the best orange hunting vests we’ve recommended has features that fulfill specific needs. For example, the Mountain Pass Extreme Big Game vest has rifle shell holders and an elastic shooting stick holder. If you’re upland or waterfowl hunting, the Gamehide Switchgrass vest has shotgun shell holders that make for a great addition to the garment.

All styles are welcome here, and it was our goal to include something for everybody, even the kids and dogs among us.

Organization

We wanted to ensure that all our fellow gear heads out there had various features to choose from when it came to organizing their gear inside their orange vest. If you use your vest to carry a rangefinder, binos, shooting sticks, or more, we wanted to include an array of products that can help you organize it all.

Which Orange Hunting Vest Will Keep You Safe (& Legal) in 2024?

Whether you’re hunting big game like deer and elk or upland hunting for small game, you need one of 2024’s best orange hunting vests to fit well, remain quiet, stay legal, and not give your position away.

Aside from these basic requirements, we made sure to include products with features that’ll elevate your hunting experience, no matter what you’re after. Whether your future vest has the warmth and insulation of fleece, sports tons of practical pockets, or is reversible with camo, we hope we have helped you find the perfect fit.

And, though many of the vests we feature are made for big game hunters, we also made sure to include 2024’s best upland orange hunting vest with a blood-proof game pouch in the back. So, whether you’re after deer, elk, duck, quail, or whatever else, there’s likely a rough-and-tumble piece of gear for you on this list.

Regardless of what you’re hunting or which brand you prefer, we hope you get your hands on one of 2024’s best orange hunting vests to help keep you legal, highly visible, and well-organized in the field.

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Last Updated on August 16, 2024