Catfish are one the most popular game fish on the North American continent and varieties of catfish can be caught world-wide. Catfish have always seemed something rather elusive to me growing up.

I know how to locate them and how to catch them. I’ve seen countless folks around me do it all the time. But I always seemed to have bad luck myself. Maybe I’ve been using the wrong bait.

How about worms? Surely they will catch plenty of catfish, right? I mean they work incredibly on bullheads. So I did some research for this article.

Can you catch catfish with worms? You can catch catfish using worms. Worms provide fish-attracting scent and enough natural action to draw in fish day or night. The effectiveness of worms makes them one of the most popular catfish baits.

While you may luck into a stringer full of catfish by haphazardly tossing worm-baited hooks into the abyss, there are specific ways to ensure bites and action using worms. Read on to learn how to maximize your catfish success.

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Worms: The Ideal Bait for Catfish

Worms are actually the perfect catfish bait for a variety of reasons. They are readily available everywhere and in every garden or bait shop.

They are free or very inexpensive depending on your means of acquiring them. They also offer great longevity and hardiness.

But we don’t care about all that. What we really care about is how to catfish like them. Catfish devour worms given the opportunity.

Sure there are plenty of bait options (cut bait, live bluegills, chicken liver, etc) that work really well under certain circumstances, but worms will catch catfish under universal circumstances.

Worms will catch catfish often times when other baits won’t.

Worms vs. Nightcrawlers for Catfish

When fishing for catfish, worms (red worms & earthworms) and nightcrawlers have their own advantages and disadvantages. I personally think worms are superior to nightcrawlers for catfish and I explain why.

First, worms are more lively and “flail” about on the worm more vigorously than nightcrawlers. Worms are more “twitchy” and reactive than their bigger, more docile cousins.

While you can usually get by only putting one single nightcrawler on the hook instead of multiple red worms, the resulting action just won’t be the same.

Perhaps even more critical a factor is the scent released by both forms of worm. Red worms are more aggressive feeders of decaying matter than nightcrawlers. This permeates into their body and out of their pores.

You may not be able to smell a difference in your hands, but catfish can detect a couple red worms more vividly from a few feet away easier than a single big nightcrawler.

If I had to choose, I’m going red worms.

Half-Worm vs. Full-Worm vs. Multiple Worms

There is a lot of nuance to this answer. This could vary from fishermen to fishermen. I’m going to go with multiple worms for catfish and I’ll explain why in a second.

Using half a worm is ideal for smaller-mouthed fish like bluegills and even small bullheads. This is because with fish like that, you want the piece of worm they grab to allow contain the point of the hook.

Their mouths are so small, you could just pull the worm off the hook and never come close to the hook itself.

If you we are talking about using a full worm, I’m assuming we are referring to a big nightcrawler. Like I mentioned earlier, I don’t love nightcrawlers as catfish bait.

I think their sluggishness and lack of scent makes them inferior as catfish bait to red worms. You can still catch catfish with them but my choice is clear.

I think you’ll have much better success with cats if you hook multiple red worms on your line than a single nightcrawler. I also believe using 1/2 a nightcrawler or worm simply is not enough meat to draw in a hungry cat.

You have to remember catfish hunt by touch and smell. The more of both those senses you can address with your bait, the easier fishing will be.

How About Plastic Worms for Catfish?

So we have clearly demonstrated that worms and nightcrawlers work very well for catfish. Let’s go a step further. Can you use plastic worms to catch catfish?

The answer is yes. It is possible to catch catfish using plastic worms. Catfish are naturally curious predators and rely heavily on their sense of touch and smell to locate food.

Bass fishermen occasionally hook into catfish when jigging soft plastic worms. This is especially true when using “Carolina-style” worm rigs.

“…I catch a catfish or two every once in a while. I know immediately once they take the bait, the pull is too steady to be a bass.” – unnamed South Carolina bass angler.

However, I would advise strongly against targeting catfish will these soft plastic baits. You’ll be wasting your time targeting catfish this way. Catfish are very smell-driven and plastic worms give on an unnatural but delicate odor.

Catfish are used to eating fishy and dying things. There’s a reason why many of the top catfish baits and attractants small awful. Catfish may eat a plastic worm on occasion but there are so many other baits that will be better for the average catfish angler. Just put a real worm on the line.

Day-Time vs. Nighttime

Nighttime. If you had to pick between day time and nighttime to throw worms at catfish, the easy answer is night. This because catfish are the most active during the summer at night.

They aggressively ascend and descend in the water column in search of prey: living and dead. At night, there’s a decent chance your bait won’t even reach the bottom before a hungry cat scoops it up.

Don’t get me wrong though, you can still catch a lot of catfish during the day, especially in the late afternoon. But if your wife is making you pick the time you’ll be out of the house, go with night.

For a complete gear and tackle recommendation for catfish, check out my recommended catfish gear list which will help you catch more and larger catfish than anyone else.

9 Tips: More Catfish Caught Using Worms

1. Multiple Rods/Multiple Distances

When fishing for catfish, especially from shore, cast your worms out to different distances. This will ensure each of your baits will settle on the floor at different depths.

Catfish are roaming characters but they will likely be grouped in similar depths depending on temperature, food sources, and other factors. Because of this, use your first few casts as “fish finders” to locate the distance from shore they are at.

2. Poke More Holes in Worms

Worms are jam-packed with nutrients and corresponding scents. A worm with just a single hole in it will release a fraction of the scent a worm with multiple “hookings” will. Yes, hookings is a real word because I just created it.

3. Fish Bottoms Only

There are times when catfish will feed higher in the water column like at night, but for 90% of your catfish outings, put your baits flat on the bottom of the river or lake.

I really like recommended bobber striker indicators but for catfish, I won’t. You want your worm on the bottom, not hovering off the bottom.

4. Break Out Flashlights

Nighttime is the right time for catfish. Ok, they can be caught at all times of the day but nighttime cats are especially voracious feeders.

Catfish are extremely reliant upon senses other than sight so they are perfectly at home hunting in darkness. Grab your flashlights, lanterns, and a jar of nightcrawlers and start casting.

5. Add Some Scent to Worms

Worms already come well-infused with natural attractive scent. Believe it or not though, it can be improved upon.

Some avid catfishermen will dip their worms in blood or even sauerkraut. Seems a little odd but it apparently works well for them.

6. Create a Burley

Most Americans likely don’t know what a burley is. From what I gather, it is a very popular and effective way of chumming in saltwater fish in New Zealand and Australia especially.

Create your own burley by tossing ground pieces of old fish or red meat. Cornmeal can work well too but will draw in bluegills that will steal your worms.

7. Avoid Vegetation

Catfish don’t discriminate when it comes to hunting grounds. They can hunt quite actively near vegetation. I’m recommending you avoid weeds for now because bluegills love weeds.

Bluegills are the single biggest (and smallest size-wise) threat to your bait. Bluegills will strip the worms off your hook before catfish can find it.

Fish muddy bottoms away from weeds and you can bet the only thing eating your worms will be large cats.

8. Use Long-Shanked or Circle Hooks

Catfish have a tendency to swallow worms completely. This can result in a gut-hooked fish which is difficult to release.

Instead, select a long-shanked hook which is harder to swallow and easier to remove. Better yet, spring a little extra money and buy some nice circle hooks.

Circle hooks are designed to hook in the corners of fish’s mouths nearly every time.

9. Rods with Backbone

This goes without saying when fishing live bait. Make sure your rod has the backbone to handle a 10+ pound catfish. If you hook into a 30-pound blue or flathead catfish, you’ll be wishing you had the rod to handle it.

There are a lot of great fishing rod & reel combos on the market for catfish. I personally recommend this 7’0″ rod and reel combo available on Amazon for most catfish angling you can do. It offers great casting ability, a ton of backbone power, and a more reliable rod for better catfish action.

Related Questions

Are worms a naturally occurring food source for catfish?

I don’t think so. Short of worms being washed into the water by heavy rain or a kid tossing a handful of worms in the water, I can’t imagine a scenario where a worm (a creature that drowns in water), is just crawling along the bottom of a lake.

Will bullheads also bite worms?

Yes, bullheads readily consume worms presented to them. You may be lucky enough to catch catfish and bullheads in the same section of water using this bait.

If you’re thinking about live trapping a raccoon, choosing the right raccoon bait is important.

For starters, trapping a raccoon in a live trap is not very difficult, and it’s one of the best ways to get rid of a raccoon that’s getting into your garbage or pet food.

Raccoons are curious animals that will venture into a trap without much hesitation.

However, the real problem arrises when you want to catch just a raccoon and not a lot of other non targeted animals like your neighbors cat, opossums or worse, a skunk.

Raccoons are not picky eaters.

Cat food, sardines, canned dog food and various table scraps will all work to lure just about any raccoon into a trap.

The problem is other animals like them too!

So, to trap a raccoon and only a raccoon, it’s important to choose a bait that’s not as appealing to other animals.

This doesn’t guarantee you won’t catch an opossum since you never know what a wild animal will do, but choosing the correct bait will make a big difference.

Choosing A Raccoon Bait

When live trapping a raccoon, trap placement and setup is important, but it’s the bait that actually lures the animal into the trap.

I’ve trapped a lot of raccoons in a live trap over the years and I’ve found a couple of baits that work really well for raccoons, but limit the amount of non targeted animals caught in the trap.

Here are some of the best raccoon bait choices for a live trap:

Marshmallows

Raccoons love marshmallows and they’re one of the best baits you can use in a live trap because they don’t attract a lot of unwanted species.

You can use large or small marshmallows, but I like to use the large ones because it’s harder for the raccoon to pull them through the side of the trap.

Clean Tin Foil

Hang a crumbled piece of clean tin foil in the back of the trap behind the trigger pan.

Suspend the piece of tin foil by tying it with a string to the top of the trap.

Since raccoons are curious animals, the shinny dangling tin foil alone is enough to lure them into the trap.

By using clean tin foil it eliminates the rotten smell that could attract unwanted animals.

I know, it sounds unbelievable but it actually works!

The tin foil attractant is the best way to trap a raccoon if you don’t want to catch your neighbors cat or any other unwanted animal.

A Single Whole Egg

A whole, un-cracked fresh egg is also a good bait for a raccoon but decreases the chances of catching an unwanted animal.

Place the egg in the back of the trap behind the trigger pan and you’re done.

Since raccoons commonly raid nests and steal eggs from animals in the wild, a whole chicken egg is a great raccoon bait to use.

Overall

There’s a lot of different baits you can use to trap a raccoon.

So, if you want to trap a raccoon and drastically reduce the chance of catching anything else, try using one of the baits we described above.

There’s always a chance of catching a different animal especially if they’re really hungry, but that’s the great thing about using a live trap instead of a snare or foothold trap to catch a raccoon.

The non-targeted animal won’t be injured if it gets caught inside the trap, and you can easily release them unharmed back into the wild.

When it comes to shotguns, Benelli and Franchi are two of the most well-known brands. Both companies make high-quality shotguns that are popular among shooters all over the world. So, which one is better? In this article, we will take a closer look at both brands and compare them head-to-head. We will discuss their history, their products, and their customer service departments. By the end of this article, you should have a good idea of which brand is right for you.

Benelli vs Franchi

Benelli was founded in 1967 by Bruno Civolani. The company is headquartered in Urbino, Italy. Benelli has a long history of making high-quality shotguns. In fact, they are one of the most well-known shotgun manufacturers in the world. Benelli’s shotguns are used by many different law enforcement agencies and militaries around the globe. They are also popular among competitive shooters and hunters.

Franchi was founded in 1868 by Pietro Franchi. The company is headquartered in Brescia, Italy. Franchi has a rich history of making high-quality firearms. In addition to shotguns, they also make rifles and pistols. Franchi’s products are popular among both recreational shooters and professional shooters.

When it comes to customer service, both Benelli and Franchi are excellent. Both companies have knowledgeable staff members who are always willing to help. They also have a wide variety of resources available on their websites, including FAQs, manuals, and instructional videos. If you ever have any problems with your shotgun, you should be able to find the information you need from either company’s customer service department.

Are Franchi shotguns good?

There are a lot of factors that go into whether or not a Franchi shotgun is good. The make and model of the gun, how well it is maintained, and the intended use all play a role in its quality. For example, a Franchi 48 AL used for trap shooting might be very different than a Franchi SPAS-12 used for home defense. Ultimately, it depends on the individual gun and situation.

That said, Franchi shotguns generally have a good reputation. They are known for being reliable and well-made firearms. Many people who own them report being happy with their purchase. If you’re considering buying a Franchi shotgun, doing some research to find out which model best suits your needs is a good idea. You can also talk to other gun owners to get their opinion on the matter. Whatever you do, make sure you’re comfortable with the gun before you buy it.

Franchi shotguns cons

• -Not great for home defense: While a Franchi shotgun can be used for home defense, it is not the best weapon for this purpose. A pump action or semi-automatic shotgun would be a better choice.
• -Relatively expensive: Franchi shotguns are not cheap, with most models costing over $1000. If you are looking for a budget-friendly option, there are better choices out there.
• -Limited ammunition capacity: Most Franchi shotguns have a limited ammunition capacity (usually no more than five rounds). This can be an issue if you need to defend yourself against multiple attackers or if you simply want to go hunting with friends.

All in all, Franchi shotguns have some pros and cons that you should consider before making a purchase.

Are Benelli shotguns good?

There is no simple answer to this question as it depends on what you are looking for in a shotgun. Benelli shotguns are certainly well-made and reliable, but they may not be the best choice for everyone. It really depends on your individual needs and preferences.

If you are simply looking for a good, reliable shotgun that will get the job done, then a Benelli might be a good option for you. However, if you are looking for something with more features or customization options, then there may be better choices out there for you. Ultimately, it all comes down to what you want and need from your shotgun.

Benelli shotguns cons

In spite of all its advantages, the Benelli shotgun also has some disadvantages that should be considered before making a purchase. One such disadvantage is its price tag; Benelli shotguns are generally more expensive than other brands on the market. Additionally, some users have reported issues with the gun’s reliability, particularly when it comes to firing shells that have been damaged or deformed in some way.

Finally, the Benelli shotgun’s recoil can be significant, which may be an issue for shooters who are inexperienced or sensitive to recoil. Overall, the pros and cons of the Benelli shotgun should be carefully considered before making a purchase. With its high price tag and potential reliability issues, it may not be the best choice for everyone.

Did Benelli buy Franchi?

The answer is yes, and no. In 2000, Benelli purchased Franchi from the Beretta Holding Company. However, Franchi still operates as an independent brand under the Benelli umbrella. This means that while Benelli now owns the company, it still produces guns separately from its new parent company.

Who is Franchi shotgun made by?

Franchi is an Italian company that has been making high-quality shotguns for over a hundred years. Their guns are used by many professional shooters and hunters, and they have a reputation for being very reliable and well-made. Franchi shotguns are made in several different models, each designed for a different purpose. Some of their most popular models include the AFP Over/Under, the AL 48 semi-automatic, and the Vinci pump-action.

If you’re looking for a high-quality shotgun that will last you for many years, then Franchi is definitely a brand to consider. Their guns are used by professionals all over the world, and they offer a wide variety of models to choose from.

The antlers on bucks in full velvet have incredible tactile appeal. Every hunter has heard the story of a buddy who harvested a beautiful, trophy-sized buck only to arrive at the taxidermist with a patchy, ragged-looking specimen. Once velvet is off there is no way to reattach it.

That’s right — there’s no way. Not even if you save all the shed velvet and bring it along with your now hard horned set of antlers to the taxidermist. Velvet is like a banana peel. Basically, it’s just a skin, with no real veins running through it. Although some shops offer sprayed-on flocking, the results will likely look too perfect, and unnatural. The flocking process can also run $2.50 per Boone & Crockett inch, so your 200-inch buck suddenly got $500 more expensive to preserve.

Instead, here’s how to preserve the unique characteristics of your buck’s velvet antlers all the way to your taxidermist from a backcountry hunt:

Do Not Touch. Velvet is delicate. In September a buck’s velvet is slick, like a bar of soap, and primed to come off. A buck can rub off all his velvet in 10 minutes; just think what your hands can do if you drag a buck by his antlers. Grab those antlers, pull hard, and you’re likely to end up with your hands full of velvet while the deer stays in the same spot. The oils in your skin will also do two things. First, it will cause the velvet to become nappy and matted, particularly in warm conditions. Second, when it meets the natural oils from the deer velvet, it will make the environment more of a potential breeding ground for bacteria.

Bring rope. Many hunters grab along the base of the antlers to drag a buck after a successful harvest. Grabbing and pulling will puncture the velvet on all the little knobs around the base that give antlers their character. Instead, if you need to move the entire deer, use a rope to wrap around the deer’s neck and base of the skull to drag it with instead of using your hands.

Do Not Rub. Any kind of abrasion will ruin velvet, especially dragging. Continue to avoid all contact with anything that’s potentially abrasive, including your backpack straps when hiking out of backcountry. Instead, strap the skull to your pack, not the antlers themselves.

Wrap it. If for some reason you can’t cape your buck, gently wrap the antlers with your base layer or another piece of spandex material. Wrap them tight and tape down the material with electrical tape. Wrapping before strapping down reduces potential friction. Now you can carry your antlers with straps if needed.

Cushion your buck for the drive. If your hunt is closer to home, you don’t need to follow quite as many steps. Get your deer to your truck using a wheeler or a cart instead of dragging it by the horns. Then secure the head so the antlers don’t come in contact with any surfaces.

Don’t have straps? Put something soft, like a jacket, pillow or sleeping bag, underneath the antlers. This prevents the velvet rubbing off when you rattle down the road or your buddies check out your buck.

Cool and cover. Heat and blood speed the decomposition process. Keep your buck as cool as possible. A shade tree is ideal. Cover the antlers to keep the flies off, but never use a plastic garbage bag. The plastic will turn your velvet into a ruined, smelly mess. Instead, cover the antlers with a deer meat bag to allow for air circulation without any spoilage.

Don’t hang. Antlers in velvet are full of blood that needs to be drained out if you’ll be staying any length of time in the backcountry. Some say to hang the buck upside down by the skull and make pinholes with your knife at the tip of each tine. Blood should then drain out the tips. However, I don’t recommend this method because those small cuts split open the living tissue and are likely to crack when they dry, leaving extra work for your taxidermist to try to repair.

Drain without making a mark. The better drainage method is to get the hide off the skull of the deer by caping it. This process will sever the blood vessels that run outside of the skull between the antlers and the velvet, effectively draining the antlers themselves.

Resist cutting the cape too short; you’ll need from the middle rib forward. Your taxidermist can always cut off what isn’t needed, but can’t make a substantial cape appear from nothing. Then prop the antlers against a tree, base down. The blood will simply drain out of the bottom of the antlers without leaving any marks.

Leave chemicals to the experts. You can get embalming fluid from your taxidermist before your hunt, but in a backcountry situation the last thing you need to worry about is dealing with this highly potent chemical. Embalming fluid is extremely dangerous and requires you to wear double latex gloves and eye protection when using it.

The fluid also demands a syringe and needle to inject the antlers properly. Remember: embalming fluid preserves whatever it touches, so if it gets on your skin, seek emergency medical attention. Not to sound too dramatic, but if embalming fluid gets in your eye, and you’re out of easy ambulance/EMS range, you will most likely lose it.

Be quick. Velvet starts to decompose right from the moment of harvest. Get those antlers and cape to a taxidermist today. Not tomorrow. The quicker your taxidermist can inject your velvet with embalming fluid, the better. This fluid bonds the proteins together and stops decomposition in its tracks. Now your velvet will last for years, no matter how you mount your trophy.

Take care with velvet antlers and you’ll have a beautiful trophy as a way to remember that great hunt. Taxidermists can fix small blemishes with an airbrush and epoxy, but they can only make a deer look as good as when it came in the shop, not better.

A finished velvet buck is an impressive sight. Be sure to take extra care in the field to protect the velvet so you can give the taxidermist a chance to make a breathtaking mount.

How to Choose the Best Ham Radio Base Station – Buyers Guide

Getting a good ham radio base station goes beyond searching for the top ones on the market. While that’s a great place to start, there are still other important factors to consider.From power output and receiver sensitivity to antenna options and digital enhancements, here’s what you should look out for when purchasing the best ham radio base station.

1. Power Output and Receiver Sensitivity

Make sure your ham radio base station has adequate power output and receiver sensitivity to ensure that you get good reception no matter the conditions. The power output should be between 5 -100 watts, and receiver sensitivity should range from 0.2-1 microvolt.

2. Antenna Options

It’s important to consider the type of antenna your ham radio base station is compatible with as antenna options will determine how well your radio performs. Look for the one with a wide frequency range and good gain value to ensure that you get the best performance from your radio.

3. Digital Enhancements

The latest ham radio base stations come with digital enhancements such as automatic notch filters, dual receivers, and noise blanking capabilities to improve user experience. Look for radio with these features for better performance.

4. Price

Compare the prices of different ham radio base stations to ensure that you get the one that fits your budget without compromising on features, performance, or build quality. Getting the best ham radio base station does not mean that you have to pay the most money and get the most expensive one.You are sure to find a great choice within options ranging from low-cost entry-level radios, that cost little money, to more expensive advanced models, so take your time to decide which one suits your needs best rather than have the price factor drive it.

5. Modes and frequency coverage

This is an important feature, as it determines if the radio meets your requirements in terms of band management. Most modern-day radios have multiple capabilities that allow you to transmit on different frequencies and modes.

6. Band and frequency

Ham radio base stations come in a range of frequencies. A single-band radio means it features one option, mostly the two-meter band on 144-148MHz. Double ones are the most common in the market, and they feature both the 2-meter band and 70 cm band. Others feature three or four frequencies.

7. Ease of operation

When buying your first ham radio base station, you want one that is user-friendly and has a short learning curve to navigate and learn how to use it.Evaluate how complex the controls are. Is it something you can learn through a user manual, or do you need some practice before acquiring your own? As a beginner, you can go for a basic radio and learn your way around it before investing in a complex option.

8. Sound clarity

Ensure you get a ham radio base station that has a clear signal and noise cancellation ability. When using a ham radio either receiving or transmitting, you don’t want distortion or signal interference as it could affect how you pass or receive information.

Some radios have an automatic inbuilt antenna that can shift across frequencies, while some need a manual one fixed within proximity. This can potentially affect its sound clarity if you are not able to fix it well, so do your research before purchasing.

9. Software

Preferably, get a radio that comes with the program software cable in the beginning. Some of the best ham radio base stations come with free software, while for others, you have to get it from a third party at a cost.

Check whether your preferred option software must be plugged into a computer to function or manually programmed, which is more applicable to experienced users.

Evaluate whether you need LAN access or not for your chosen radio software to run. For instance, some radios require a laptop to run the software through a LAN connection.

10. Accessories

Most ham radio base stations come in packages that include accessories such as headsets, microphones, and power supplies. Consider additional accessories you may need before making your purchase so that you can be sure all your requirements are met from the start.

Whether you’re a first-time hunter or have years of hunting experience under your belt, you know the importance of scouting the area beforehand. Getting a feel for the surrounding wildlife and lay of the land gives you an advantage when you set out on your next trip.

Trail cameras are the perfect solution to giving you the upper hand. With coverage of your entire property, you can have a clear view of many outdoor angles to better strategize your next hunting venture. Many of these cameras work on cellular plans to give you real-time visibility regarding what’s happening around your property.

On average, trail camera plans can range anywhere from free to costing $60 or so each month, often paid upfront for a year. Some plans run about $1,000 annually. Others cost more or less depending on the number of cameras on your data plan and whether that company charges for data usage or on a picture-by-picture basis.

Incorporating a cellular trail camera into your hunting and scouting process, security or wildlife photography hobby can enhance your experience. Learn the benefits of choosing Moultrie Mobile as your cellular trail camera provider by reading below.

Benefits of Choosing Reliable Trail Cameras

Integrating a cellular trail camera with a data plan is one of the best ways to ensure your trail cam photos are easily accessible and stored somewhere safe. With the proper connection, you can check up on areas of your property any time you desire without worrying about a choppy feed, disconnected coverage or lagging.

Some benefits of choosing trail cameras that send pictures to your phone include:

• Access to your photos from anywhere you have a cellular signal — regardless of your proximity to your trail camera. You can also view pictures via your log-in credentials on the mobile website.
• The option to store your photos in cloud-based storage, keeping them safe and secure if anything happens to your phone.
• The ability to customize your data plan to match how many cameras you have and how often you plan to use them.
• Additional perks and features, like built-in AI capabilities, the ability to change camera settings remotely, image filtering and sorting options and push alerts when photos are taken or delivered.

You can enjoy the views of the great outdoors right from your fingertips with reliable coverage sent to your phone. If you’re scouting out your next hunt, choosing the right trail cameras offers you all the above benefits as you explore the great outdoors.

Now that you know more about the benefits of cellular trail camera data plans, you might be wondering how much you can expect to pay for the costs of these connectivity packages. The answer depends on several factors, including:

• Whether you are paying monthly or for an entire year upfront.
• The brand, model and type of trail camera you are using.
• How much data and photos you anticipate using each month.
• Whether you opt for thumbnail-size or full-resolution images.
• Any add-ons or bonus features, like access to cloud storage, may cost additional fees, depending on the manufacturer.

Exploring your options for the best trail camera manufacturer plans can give you a better idea of which choice gives you more bang for your buck. Comparing the quality and costs of each one can make your decision easier.

The Best Cellular Trail Camera Plans With Moultrie Mobile

Every game camera manufacturer provides different services from others. Prices vary across the industry, and the value of any 4G wireless trail camera plan depends on how well that manufacturer meets your specific needs. Some of your needs may include the following:

• Compatibility with a cellular service provider that has extensive coverage in your area.
• Whether the data plan includes the cost of photo transmissions or total data usage.
• High-quality products that are suitable for your intended use.
• Availability of multi-camera packages and other add-on options.
• Your budget for both the initial camera purchase and monthly fees.
• The ability to pay monthly, quarterly or annually.
• The overall quality of the product, service and ongoing care.

At Moultrie Mobile, we take all of these crucial factors into consideration when helping you find quality coverage that fits your budget.

As a long-time leader in the trail camera industry, we designed the Moultrie Mobile cellular trail camera plans to integrate seamlessly into your lifestyle and offer convenient features that enable you to get the most out of your camera footage. All plans below include unlimited cloud storage, HD versions of images available for on-demand download and advanced image recognition — all with no contract required.

Our plans are compatible with Verizon- and AT&T-connected cellular trail cameras, offering maximum coverage. Additionally, our Moultrie Mobile App is also easy to use, allowing you to access and monitor your camera’s status and settings when you’re away.

Choose from one of these flexible, cost-efficient Moultrie cellular train camera plans:

• Standard: The Standard plan includes 1,000 images and 10 videos each month. It costs $8.99 per month if you pay annually and $9.99 if you pay each month.
• Unlimited: The Unlimited plan includes a limitless number of images and 50 videos each month, which costs $12.99 per month when paid annually and $16.99 when paid monthly.
• Pro Series Unlimited: The Pro Series Unlimited plan includes unlimited images and 50 videos each month, and you save more when you have four or more cameras on this plan. Your first camera is $34.99 per month, and additional cameras are $7.99 per camera each month.

Every Moultrie Mobile plan offers competitive pricing and includes convenient features and anytime-access to our helpful team of customer service representatives.

Do you need a few more pictures for one month than you do in another? Moultrie has you covered. Our plans are flexible and adaptable to your lifestyle. For the Standard plans, you can easily add 500 more images to your plan for an additional $4.99, or add 50 videos for $1.

With every Moultrie Mobile monthly plan, you also have the option to pay annually rather than monthly, saving up to 40% on total monthly costs. Plus, you can upgrade or downgrade your plan anytime and there is never an activation or cancellation fee. Regardless of the Moultrie Mobile plan you choose, you’ll have access to valuable features that will enhance your hunting and scouting experience.

Cellular Service Providers for Trail Cameras

Some cellular game data plans are compatible with only one cellular service provider, while others are compatible with two or more. Always consider the service provider when choosing your trail camera plan and check that their high-speed coverage extends to the areas where you install your cameras.

The two most popular service providers compatible with 4G cellular trail camera plans are Verizon and AT&T:

• Verizon: You need a connected device plan to access Verizon cellular game camera plans. Verizon’s connected device plans can work through your account’s unlimited or shared data plan, or you can opt for a single-device plan instead. Single-device data plans range from 500MB to 1GB, while shared data plans can reach 10GB. You can also use add-on data boosts for your Verizon cellular trail camera plans for an additional fee. Verizon covers more than 99% of the U.S. population, so you likely won’t have trouble picking up a strong signal where you need it most.
• AT&T: With wireless coverage in every state, AT&T has both prepaid and standard contract data plans. AT&T game trail camera service prepaid data options include an 8GB high-speed data plan, an unlimited data plan and an unlimited plus data plan that includes a 10GB mobile hotspot. Standard contract AT&T trail camera plans include unlimited and mobile share options, so you can adapt them to fit multiple cameras if necessary.

Why Moultrie Mobile Offers the Best Cellular Trail Camera Plan

With adaptable, cost-efficient plans, flexible coverage options and world-class customer support, Moultrie Mobile is the best cellular trail camera plan for anyone who wants reliable quality and convenient built-in features. Here’s what you get when you choose Moultrie Mobile:

• Multiple coverage options: With the ability to choose between Verizon, AT&T and other major cellular networks as your service provider, you can select the one with the best coverage in your area. You are not bound to whichever company currently services your cellphone — our plans are their own entity and can exist on a different network from your cell phone.
• Flexible plan options: We offer several different plan options to suit various needs and lifestyles, all with no required contracts and no fine print. You have the opportunity to pay either monthly or upfront for the year, which saves you money. As your needs and lifestyle change, you can easily adjust your plan to a lower or higher tier, or add 500 photos to your current month for an extra charge.
• Unlimited cloud storage: Every plan has free unlimited cloud storage, so your photos are easily accessible and safely stored. Even if your phone breaks, you can access your images without issue.
• Advanced image recognition: Our advanced image recognition system helps you get the most value for your money, sifting through your game cam photos to identify and tag ones with deer, buck, turkey, people and vehicles in them.
• Trained customer support: Our highly trained support team is based in the U.S. and is always available to help if you have questions or require assistance — even on nights and weekends. Enjoy further peace of mind with our three-year hassle-free warranty program.
• Easy setup: It only requires three simple steps to set up and you’re ready to receive photos and improve your hunting.
• More than a trail camera: The Moultrie Mobile app includes quality features and technology that is sure to impress. You’ll have everything you need with one innovative app.
• High resolution: You’ll receive HDR images and HD videos with sound directly to your phone. You’ll have the ability to scout from virtually anywhere.
• Free two-year warranty: You’ll be backed with our industry-leading warranty for up to two years after the purchase date. Remember to register your camera to ensure the two-year warranty covers you.

Same same…but different.

We’d love for a clear winner to emerge, but often, the reality is our subjective personal preferences are really the only sticks we have with which to measure competing options.

In many ways, this is the case with scope reticles and turrets measured in minutes-of-angle versus milliradians.

In fact, the last grudge match I mentioned above — between metric and imperial units — is apropos here, because MOA versus mil or mrad boils down to just that: a difference in how we format degrees of angular measure.

I know this can be confusing, but we’re going to break everything down and try to demystify the topic for those of us who just want to know what we should choose.

We’ll look at the differences between MOA and mil measurements, figure out what’s relevant to you as a shooter, and see if we can find any strong or even weak reasons to prefer one over the other.

What’s an MOA?

Minute-of-angle is just an angular measurement. It’s based off the number of degrees in a circle — 360 — and the number of minutes in a degree — 60. This is an arbitrary arrangement going all the way back to the Egyptians and Mesopotamians that is used simply to provide a standard of measurement.

They divided a circle into 360 degrees, basically because they used a base-60 numerical system (we use a base-10 system). So we do too. Because history.

OK, some of you might be saying … What does that even mean though? Think of it this way. Let’s say you’re looking at a target that’s 100 yards away. Now, imagine there’s nothing around or under you, and a circle appears around you, where you are at the center of the circle, and the outside edge of the circle passes through the direct center of the target.

If you divide that imaginary circle into 360 degrees or 360 pie slices, and you walk out and measure the distance between those degrees or slices, that distance would be 62.83 inches. This means that at 100 yards, 1 degree of angle measures 62.83 inches. Does that make sense?

Good. Now, if we were to further divide that degree by minutes, we’d get the number 1.047 inches, because there are 60 minutes in a degree.

By the way, isn’t it interesting that our measure of one minute-of-angle is very close to 1 inch at 100 yards? That’s partially why, when we’re sighting in a rifle using an MOA-based scope, we often shoot at targets with 1-inch grids on them. At 100 yards, if all of our shots hit within a single square, we can be sure we’re shooting a sub-MOA grouping.

Though this is purely coincidental, for our purposes as shooters, it’s extremely convenient, because this relationship between distance and minute-of-angle holds mostly true as we move out by 100-yard intervals. At 200 yards, one MOA equal 2.094 inches. Out to 1,000 yards, 1 MOA equals 10.47 inches.

You can find your MOA measurement by multiplying the distance in yards by 1.047, then dividing by 100. And at each increase of 100 yards, you’ll find that you’ve added roughly 1 inch to your MOA measurement. You’re basically just adjusting your measurement to “shooter’s MOA,” which is just your MOA rounded down to the nearest inch measurement.

What’s a Milliradian?

So, like MOA, a mil or mrad is just an angular measurement. The difference is, while there are 21,600 minutes in a circle, there are 6.2832 radians in a circle, and each radian has 1,000 milliradians in it, so there are 6,283.2 milliradians per circle.

Incidentally, a milliradian is a measurement derived from the International Standard of Measurements, which is the same system that gave us the metric system. So if you hate the metric system, you might want to stick with MOA.

Jokes aside, the only practical difference between MOA and mil is that the unit of measure is different. There’s nothing magical or mysterious going on here. We’re just talking about the same difference between inches and centimeters.

At 100 yards, a mil subtends — or measures, for our purposes — 3.6 inches. Just like 1 MOA measures roughly 1 inch at 100 yards. At 200 yards, 1 mil is 7.2 inches. At 1,000 yards, 1 mil is 36 inches.

To find your mil, just multiple your distance in yards by 3.6, and divide again by 100. That’s it. It’s that simple.

But Wait … Is It That Simple?

Let’s get into what the differences amount to. You probably immediately noticed that 21,600 minutes is a lot more than 6,283.2 milliradians. But you also know that scope adjustments are almost never done in one-MOA increments.

Instead, MOA scopes are generally adjusted on the ratio of one-quarter MOA per click (some shorter range or CQB scopes are in 1/2 MOA, check your user manual to be sure). That means for any MOA scope, 1 click will equal 0.25 inches at 100 yards (assuming your scope is in 1/4 MOA clicks).

Milliradians are also divided on most mil scopes by tenths. That means that each click on a mil scope is 0.36 inches at 100 yards.

In both cases, these finer adjustment intervals give us more precise control of where our reticle is pointing. Also, MOA-based scopes are a little more precise — 0.25 inches versus 0.36 inches at 100 yards.

That said, the difference isn’t substantial. At 1,000 yards, for instance, one-quarter MOA subtends to roughly 2.6 inches. At that same distance, one-tenth of a mil subtends to 3.6 inches.

There are confounding factors, of course. It’s possible to have a mil-dot reticle and a turret that adjusts using MOA. Also, to further complicate the issue, we need to consider whether the scope you’re using places the reticle on the first or second focal plane.

But how to actually make an adjustment at range, or what the difference between a first- and second-focal plane reticle is, are topics for another article.

Practical issues aside, there are so many factors to long-range shooting that this relatively miniscule difference in precision isn’t going to make or break your ability to hit your target. So, we’re left with personal preference to make our decision.

Let’s go over why we might choose one style over the other for our shooting pleasure.

Your Application Matters

Neither system is inherently superior to the other. In almost all situations, both systems of measurement will serve adequately for your shooting needs.

If you grew up hunting using MOA, and you’re familiar with that system, my suggestion is to stick with it if that’s your intended application. This is especially true for me, because I don’t advocate taking shots at game beyond 400 yards, in almost all circumstances. But that ethical question is for you to decide.

For the average shooter, I do think the practical relationship between 1 MOA at 100 yards and 10 MOA at 1,000 yards is somewhat easier to understand and use effectively.

If, however, you’re getting into long-range shooting as a sport, you’ll have a few more issues to consider, and you’ll very likely want to go with a mil-based scope. It’s safe to say that in tactical situations — and, by extension, sport-based long-range shooting applications — mil scopes have superseded MOA scopes.

Basically, because the mil system is popular with the military and law enforcement, the civilian market has adopted it as well. But this isn’t purely an aesthetic decision, in my opinion.

There are several reasons mil systems are popular, but it essentially boils down to two facts. Using mil turret adjustments is much simpler when ranging with mil-dot reticles because you don’t have to make an MOA-to-mil conversion, and you will have to make fewer clicks with a mil-based turret to make a correction (because MOA turrets are more precise, and thus require more adjustment clicks for a correction).

If you’re used to making that MOA-to-mil conversion, however, you might not think making the adjustment is difficult at all. Ultimately, you can train and become proficient with either system.

Now, all of this takes practice. When you’re shooting at long-range, you’ll inevitably be doing various mathematical calculations. When it comes to the difference between hitting a target or not, the simplest method is probably best.

This is a big part of the reason why the mil system has essentially taken over tactical and long-range shooting applications. At greater distances, many shooters basically just find it easier to use.

If that isn’t enough for you to choose mil for sport long-range shooting, consider this: it’s the system most other long-range sport shooters are migrating to, if they haven’t already. It makes sense to be on the same page for the sake of simplicity, in my opinion.

And I prefer to use an MOA scope, so I’m not just a mil fanboy.

Try Something New

Take my opinion with a grain of salt, and tinker around with each system if you can. Give both a try, or if you’re new to one of them, focus on that for a while. Make your own investigation, and figure out what works best for you.

Neither system is cooler than the other. Don’t just pick one or the other because of what the military uses, or because your grandfather refuses to try something new. We’re literally just talking about a standard of measurement, after all, and you can learn to become an excellent shooter with either one.

Do you use MOA or MIL? Have you switched from one system to the other? Tell us all about it in the comments! Looking for a badass scope? Take a look at the 9 Best Long Range Scopes!

Sighting in or “zeroing” a rifle is the art of aligning iron or telescopic sights with the barrel, thus allowing the shooter to place bullets predictably at a given distance. In this article, we will focus on telescopic sights or “scopes” because they offer significant advantages over open sights, especially at longer distances.

Scopes have evolved with greater clarity and magnification to match the increasing power and precision of rifles and ammunition. Two systems for aligning scopes have developed independently. Each has a distinctly different origin and approach. The Minute of Angle (MOA) method is an ancient base-60 scheme conceived for astronomy. The Milliradian method is a base-10 scheme developed for artillery in the late nineteenth century. Nonetheless, both are equally effective, using segments of arc to express a certain amount of change in trajectory at a set distance.

MOA — Minute of Angle

Brief

One minute of angle, also known as an arcminute, is equal to a deviation of approximately 1 inch at 100 yards, 2.00 inches at 200 yards and 3.00 inches at 300 yards. One increment of adjustment on many MOA scopes moves the reticle alignment 0.25 (1/4″) of an arcminute or 0.25 inches at 100 yards, 0.50 inch at 200 yards and 0.75 of an inch at 300 yards. These measurements apply to both windage and elevation and are accomplished by rotating a turret adjuster on the scope. Some scopes move reticle alignment in .0125 (1/8″) increments, but many shooters consider this too narrow to be useful, especially at great distances.

Let us consider some examples. If you had a bullet drop of 1.50 inches at 200 yards and wanted to zero your rifle at this distance, you would need to adjust the elevation turret of your scope up by 3 increments or .75 of an arcminute because a minute of arc equals 2 inches at 200 yards. Using these convenient figures, we can generate the following results in Table 1 showing approximate arcminute deviations and the value of one increment at various ranges.

Arcminute DeviationsIncremental Scope Adjustments of 0.25 100 yards = 1.0 inch100 yards = 0.25 inch 200 yards = 2.0 inch200 yards = 0.50 inch 300 yards = 3.0 inch300 yards = 0.75 inch 400 yards = 4.0 inch400 yards = 1.00 inch 500 yards = 5.0 inch500 yards = 1.25 inch 600 yards = 6.0 inch600 yards = 1.50 inch 700 yards = 7.0 inch700 yards = 1.75 inch 800 yards = 8.0 inch800 yards = 2.00 inch 900 yards = 9.0 inch900 yards = 2.25 inch 1000 yards = 10.0 inch1000 yards = 2.50 inch

In order to compensate for a windage error of 2.50 inches to the right at 500 yards, you would need to adjust the windage turret toward the left by 2 increments or 0.50 arcminutes because a minute of arc equals 5.00 inches at 500 yards.

In Depth

The MOA system was handed down from the Sumerians in the 3rd millennium BC. The modern practice of dividing a circle into 360 degrees began with the Sumerians. The Babylonians further refined this measurement by dividing each degree into 60 minutes of arc. Since an arcminute is 1/60th of a degree, there are 21,600 (60 * 360) arcminutes in a full circle. Being a standalone system that is somewhat arbitrary, MOA feels akin to Imperial units, even though it is not part of that system and postdates it by more than two millennia.

True MOA

Shooting purists acknowledge a difference between commonly understood MOA and “true” MOA, which adheres strictly to the underlying mathematics. This meticulous attitude is necessary when acquiring targets that are several hundred yards away because the minor variations of rounded numbers are magnified by distance. In June of 2017, a Canadian Special Forces sniper downed an Islamic State militant from just over 2 miles away. The bullet took 10 seconds to reach its target. Shooting at this distance and accounting for wind, angle of trajectory, light aberration, and even the Earth’s curvature leaves no margin for error. More practically speaking, striking a mule deer from 400 yards, down a powerline slash in Western Montana requires you to be “on your game.”

Calculating the exact deviation of one MOA is a problem of geometry. The circumference of our circle is determined by the radius or distance from the shooter to target. At 100 yards, using the formula of 2 π r, we find that 2 * 3.14 * 100 = 628 yards. As there are 36 inches to a yard, the circumference in inches is 22,608. Now, all that remains is to divide by the number of MOA’s in a circle (21,600) and the quotient is 1.047. This is the actual deviation of one MOA at 100 yards.

Using this precise figure, we can generate the following table of MOA deviations, yielding greater accuracy. Note that the variance from rounded numbers is nearly half an inch at 1000 yards.

TRUE Arcminute DeviationsTRUE Incremental Scope Adjustments of 0.25″ 100 yards = 1.047 inch100 yards = 0.2617 inch 200 yards = 2.094 inch200 yards = 0.5235 inch 300 yards = 3.141 inch300 yards = 0.7852 inch 400 yards = 4.188 inch400 yards = 1.0470 inch 500 yards = 5.236 inch500 yards = 1.3088 inch 600 yards = 6.282 inch600 yards = 1.5705 inch 700 yards = 7.329inch700 yards = 1.8323 inch 800 yards = 8.376 inch800 yards = 2.0940 inch 900 yards = 9.423 inch900 yards = 2.3558 inch 1000 yards = 10.47 inch1000 yards = 2.6175 inch

Let us consider a few real-world examples using these more acute numbers. The bullet drop of a Norma 150 grain, 7mm Magnum bullet is 21 inches at 400 yards. Compensating for this drop would require an adjustment of 20 increments of one-quarter MOA for a total of 5 MOA because one minute of arc equals 4.188 inches at that distance.

Suppose you are shooting a 180 Grain Remington Express in 30.06, from a rifle zeroed at 200 yards. The range of your target is 400 yards, producing a bullet drop of 23 inches. You are shooting to the north and there is a 10 mph wind from the east. In order to compensate for the drop, you would need to adjust the elevation turret up by 22 increments. Wind drift would be about 12 inches, based on the known ballistic coefficient for that bullet, requiring a windage turret adjustment of 11 increments to the right for a total change of nearly 3 MOA.

MRAD — Milliradian

Brief

A radian or “rad” is the standard unit of angular measure used in many areas of mathematics. A Radian is slightly under 57.3 degrees. A milliradian or “mil” is one thousandth of a radian. There are approximately 6283 mils in a full circle.

Just as arcminutes have a predetermined value at various ranges, so do milliradians. These are typically expressed in meters (metric system) rather than yards, for reasons we will examine shortly. Milliradian scopes usually adjust in one-tenth (.10) increments because one full mil makes a sizable difference, even at 100 meters.

The deflection of .10 mils is understood to be 1 cm at 100 meters, 2 cm at 200 meters and 3 cm at 300 meters. The fact that the milliradian system works out to whole numbers makes calculating trajectory and adjusting for windage and elevation very straightforward. If, for example, you have to account for a bullet drop of 33 cm at 300 meters, you would need to adjust the elevation turret up by 11 increments. Compensating for wind drift of 3 cm to the right at 100 meters would require an adjustment of 3 increments to the left.

In Depth

The milliradian system is an International System of Units (SI) derived method of angular measurement. All SI units are based on science. A radian is mathematically defined as an arc-length equal to the radius of its circle. Therefore, the milliradian or “mil” is equal to 1/1000th of the radius. It was first proposed by Swiss engineer, Charles-Marc Dapples, in the mid-nineteenth century and came into prominent use for French artillery during World War I.

The established deflection of .10 mils is .9999 centimeters (cm) at 100 meters, or for all practical purposes, 1 cm. A difference of one ten-thousandth (.0001) of a centimeter is simply too small to be worthy of distinction. Even at 1000 meters, the margin of error would be a mere 1000th of a centimeter (99.99 vs 100 cm). Therefore, at 200 meters a tenth of a mil is considered 2 cm and at 300 meters it is 3 cm. We can extrapolate from these numbers to produce the table below.

Mil DeviationsIncremental Scope Adjustments of 0.10 Mils 100 meters = 10 cm100 meters = 1.0 cm 200 meters = 20 cm200 meters = 2.0 cm 300 meters = 30 cm300 meters = 3.0 cm 400 meters = 40 cm400 meters = 4.0 cm 500 meters = 50 cm500 meters = 5.0 cm 600 meters = 60 cm600 meters = 6.0 cm 700 meters = 70 cm700 meters = 7.0 cm 800 meters = 80 cm800 meters = 8.0 cm 900 meters = 90 cm900 meters = 9.0 cm 1000 meters = 100 cm1000 meters = 10.0 cm

Table 1. Mil and 0.10 mil deviations at ranges from 100 to 1000 meters.

Now for some real-world examples. Suppose you are firing a 140 grain 7.62 mm bullet, from a weapon zeroed at 100 meters, at a target that is 300 meters down range. The bullet drop would be 42 centimeters. You would need to adjust the elevation turret up by 14 increments, since each tenth of a mil would equal 3 cm at that distance. Next you are sighting with a Hornady 140 grain 6.5 mm Creedmoor at 500 meters and it is hitting 5 cm to the right. You would need to adjust your windage turret 1 increment to the left, since each tenth of a mil equals 5 cm at 500 meters.

MOA vs. MRAD

Each system has advantages. Here are a few considerations:

MOA Advantages

• 1/4 MOA adjustments (2.1675″@1000 yards) are nearly twice as refined as 1/10 mil adjustments (3.93701″@1000 yards).
• MOA is more familiar if you live in a country that uses Imperial measurements.
• Most ballistic tables are in feet and yards.

MRAD Advantages

• Base 10 metric values calculate more easily.
• More high-end equipment is MRAD & more pros use it.
• The US Military and many other forces around the globe have standardized on MRAD, influencing production & use.

Beyond this, both systems are equally effective. The question is not which is superior but which is better for you. Generally, if you are more comfortable with the Imperial system of measurements (inches, feet, yards), than the MOA system will feel more familiar. If you favor the Metric system (centimeters, meters), then MRAD may quickly seem like an old friend. Whichever system you choose, you will probably require at least a passing understanding of the other because they overlap in some important ways.

• Many scopes mix the two systems, having a mil dot reticle but turret adjustments in one-quarter minutes of arc.
• Although math is simpler in the base-10 metric system, most ballistic charts are in imperial measurements, requiring conversion from feet and yards to centimeters and meters.

Subtension

Subtension refers to the length of arc at a set distance, described by two radii that are separated by a certain angle. Subtension is a relative term and subject to the system of measurement used. In the context of MOA, for example, it would be evaluated in arcminutes, yards and inches.

So, imagine that you are looking at an object at a distance of 100 yards and the width of your view is two minutes of arc. The subtension would be 2.094 inches. We would say that the angle of two MOA is subtended by an arc distance of 2.094 inches at 100 yards. Not surprisingly, an arc of one milliradian at 300 meters is subtended by a circumferential distance of 30 centimeters. While these terms may seem initially confusing, speaking correctly about such concepts is the beginning of thinking correctly about them and ultimately leads to the power of using them properly.

Subtension becomes valuable when using a scope reticle to calculate the size or distance of an object, as well as the accuracy of shot placement. Next we will examine the application of subtension for this purpose in greater detail.

Triangulation

The process of determining a distance or location by using the knowledge of two other points is known as triangulation. It applies equally to MOA and MRAD and the principles are the same. We will use the latter for illustration because the math is more transparent.

Mil scopes are those with turrets that adjust in increments of mils and also have crosshairs that are segmented into mils (the space between one dot center and another). Milliradian measurements can be used to zero your scope at a given range, assess your shot groupings, determine the size of a target or calculate the range.

You can determine the accuracy of your shots from a known distance by using the reticle as a ruler. If your rangefinder reads 1000 meters and your bullet lands 1 mil-space to the right, then you are off by about 100 cm or 1 meter (subtension). The size of groupings can be found by the same method. If your shots appear to be separated by no more than a mil at 1000 meters, then they are all within 1 meter of each other. Similarly, a target image that appears to be 1 mil high at a range of 1000 meters is actually about 1 meter tall. You can also calculate the range in meters if the target size is known. Just divide the size of your target in millimeters by the number of mils it spans on the reticle. Let us say that you are firing upon a paper sheet that is 1 meter square (1000 mm) and it spans 1 mil on the reticle. Dividing 1000 by 1 yields a quotient of 1000. The range is 1000 meters.

Magnification

Magnification is an important consideration when triangulating. If the reticle is installed on the first focal plane of the scope, it will alter by magnification exactly as the view and remain constant with respect to target image. Such a reticle may be used at every level of amplification. However, if the reticle is installed on the second focal plane, it will remain fixed in size as the view changes, varying the ratio between mils and image. In this case, triangulation may only be performed at one designated magnification; usually at the highest point or halfway.

Calculations and Conversions

Here are some formulae that make manipulating both Imperial and Metric measurements more accessible:

Formulae for Milliradian Based Reticles

Distance to Target (Yards): D=H/I×1000Where D is target distance (yards), H is target height (yards), I is image size (mils), and the quotient is multiplied by a factor of 1000.

Distance to Target (Yards): D=H/I×27.77Where D is target distance (yards), H is target height (inches), I is image size (mils), and the quotient is multiplied by a factor of 27.77.

Distance to Target (Meters): D=H/I×25.40Where D is target distance (meters), H is target height (inches), I is image size (mils), and the quotient is multiplied by a factor of 25.40.

Distance to Target (Meters): D=H/I×1000Where D is target distance (meters), H is target height (meters), I is image size (mils), and the quotient is multiplied by a factor of 1000.

Distance to Target (Meters): D=H/I×10Where D is target distance (meters), H is target height (centimeters), I is image size (mils), and the quotient is multiplied by a factor of 10.

Formulae for Arcminute Based Reticles

Distance to Target (Yards): D=H/I×95.5Where D is target distance (yards), H is target height (inches), I is image size (MOA), and the quotient is multiplied by a factor of 95.5.

Distance to Target (Meters): D=H/I×87.30Where D is target distance (meters), H is target height (inches), I is image size (MOA), and the quotient is multiplied by a factor of 87.30.

Distance to Target (Meters): D=H/I×3438Where D is target distance (meters), H is target height (meters), I is image size (MOA), and the quotient is multiplied by a factor of 3438.

Distance to Target (Meters): D=H/I×34.38Where D is target distance (meters), H is target height (centimeters), I is image size (MOA), and the quotient is multiplied by a factor of 34.38.

Application

So far, our examination of this subject has been mostly theoretical and the calculations approximate. In the field, there are many considerations. You need to watch a few hundred bullets of your favorite caliber go down range from your preferred setup before you can make calls that result in consistent hits at distances well over 100 yards. Still, shooting accurately begins with assumptions based on theory. Then it must be refined by hard core experience. There is no shortcut to shooting accurately in such highly variable situations as big-game hunting or battle. You just have to live there for a bit. Keeping that in mind, here is some useful advice.

Scope and Mount

Standardize on ONE System

Choose a scope that has reticle segments and turret increments in the same system and mount similar scopes on ALL of your weapons. Use either an MOA reticle and 0.25″ MOA adjustments or a mil-dot reticle and 0.1 MRAD adjustments. Splitting between the two will add an additional layer of complexity to your calculations when zeroing, ranging, etc.

Mount and Align Your Scope

Mount your scope as low as possible, using established procedures. This process has many variables and is beyond the breadth of this article. If you are unsure, have a gunsmith mount it for you.

Set Eye Relief

Check and adjust the eye relief. If the focal distance of the scope is not adjusted correctly, it will strike your forehead when the weapon recoils and cut a neat ring into your skin.

Align the Reticle

Make sure that the cross hairs are exactly in line with the vertical and horizontal planes. If they are not, all of your adjustments will be off. This condition is referred to as reticle cant.

Sighting In

Get Set & Level

Get yourself and the weapon set and solidly supported in a comfortable position, on a level plane. All testing and adjustments depend upon your steadiness and precision in handling the weapon.

Zero Point

Decide on a point at which you want the rifle to be dead-on. This should be chosen based on the bullet trajectory and your anticipated shooting range. Bullets travel in an arc, at first rising slightly with energy and then falling as they succumb to gravity. Consequently, your Point-of-Aim (POA) and Point-of-Impact (POI) intersect at two points: early and later in flight. Typically, you want to adjust the zero point so that where you are aiming and where the bullet will strike are close over a significant distance. Thus, you have a spectrum of ranges at which you will be accurate within a few inches.

In some cases your shooting distances may far exceed the overlap between POA and POI. In that case, you should make the weapon accurate at the target range you are most likely to encounter.

Test, Test & Test

Test repeatedly in three-shot groups, adjusting the weapon according to your results. Use the same factory ammunition or carefully constructed reloads every time, at the test bench and when engaged in the field.

Try to limit the variables with each testing session. Go at the same time of day, in the same weather, using your usual mode of dress, etc. Later during practice, you will deliberately alter these variables to improve your coping skills.

Ranging and Sizing

Making determinations of target size and range requires a keen eye for detail because images may appear quite small at a distance. Conversely, your target may be larger than the segmented portion of the reticule. Thus, arriving at accurate reading requires you to make an educated assessment. Here are a few pointers:

Multiply & Divide

Suppose your target is less than one graduation or is one plus a fraction. Compare the fraction with the next whole segment on the crosshair. Is it a forth, half, three-quarters?

What if your target is larger than the graduated portion of the crosshairs? Most scopes only span about 10 graduations along each axis (5 on either side of center for both vertical or horizontal). Position the scope so that one side of the target is at the edge of the dots or lines. How much of the target image is off the graduated portion? Imagine the dots or lines continuing. How many would there be? Another tactic is to divide your subject in half or into quarters and measure a section. Then multiply your reading accordingly to obtain the correct product number that represents the whole.

Increase Your Average

It may be difficult to assess the size or proximity of a target if it is standing on a hill, positioned at an angle, or shifting posture. In this case, it may be useful to take multiple measurements and average the results to obtain a more accurate product. Suppose you are targeting a pronghorn buck that is grazing on a hill. This animal is known to be about 36-40″ high at the shoulder. Use your reticle to measure the height from the shoulder to the front hooves. Now, readjust and evaluate the distance from the top of the hind quarters to the rear hooves. Add the two numbers and divide the sum by two. If your final value is 6 MOA, the buck is approximately 600 yards distant.

You can use the same technique when the subject has assumed two different stances while you are watching.

Scale

What if your target is standing near a known value, such as a fence line. Livestock fences average about 50 inches in height. Compare your subject to this and calculate accordingly.

Non-Graduated Reticles

Some reticles have only plain crosshairs but that need not defeat your purpose. Perhaps you are evaluating a black bear at 200 meters. While keeping the rifle very steady, put the crosshair at the shoulder of your target. Now use the elevation turret to slowly adjust the crosshairs halfway down to the paws while counting the clicks. You may need to estimate if it is standing in ground cover. Suppose it was 25 increments of 1/10th mil. Your subject is approximately 80 cm or 36 inches tall.

Holds and Windage Adjustments

Calculations do not always turn out clean and even. Sometimes the firing solution falls between adjustments. Suppose, for example that you need a vertical adjustment of 7.5 cm at 300 meters. Since each tenth of a milliradian is equal to 3 cm at that distance, there is no whole number of adjustments or “clicks” that would equal the necessary deviation. In order to compensate, you must perform a hold or hold-over. Making holds can be difficult, since you must estimate how much to aim above your target at a given distance to account for the adjustment. In the previous example, adjusting the vertical turret two increments up would elevate the POA 6 cm. Your hold must produce an elevation of 1.5 cm to complete the solution. Looking through a scope at 300 meters, this might be barely the thickness of the crosshair!

Holds are not always made because the solution lay between clicks. Suppose you are sitting on a powerline slash and an eight-point, white-tail buck crosses your field of vision at 150 yards. He will be back in the woods in a matter of seconds. There is no time to adjust your scope before you take the shot. If your rifle is zeroed at one-hundred yards, you will need to compensate by estimating how much to aim over your target for a strike.

Likewise, windage adjustments must sometimes be made on-the-fly. This is also referred to as Kentucky windage, no doubt a reference to the famed Kentucky frontier rifle and the skill of the men who used it. If you are compensating for a wind drift of 7.5 inches to the left at 300 yards, two clicks would bring you approximately six and a quarter inches of change. You would need to adjust your POA slightly to account for the remaining inch and a quarter.

Kentucky windage is used not only to account for motion of the air but also in leading a fast moving subject such as a bird in flight. Even though your target is moving much slower than a bullet, it will not be in the same place when the bullet arrives. You must aim ahead of your target enough to compensate for its forward motion while the bullet travels down range. Leading a moving object is a complex topic and performing it well is an art acquired over time. While it is beyond the breadth of this article, there are many fine writings available to instruct you.

One very useful tool for developing skill at windage adjustments is the Beaufort scale. It uses a series of common observations to estimate wind speed. One way to make your judgment of wind speed acute is to train with an anemometer. Digital anemometers accurately measure wind speed and are very affordable. Once you have used such a device to calibrate your perception of the wind, you can make precise calls on-the-fly with nothing but your five senses.

The Beaufort Scale

1mph-3 mphSmoke moves in direction of wind, slight movement of grass. 4 mph-7 mphWind felt lightly on the face *Very Accurate* 8 mph-12 mphLeaves turn, twigs and treetops will be in motion. 13 mph-18 mphLoose paper, dust, and paper will blow around, small tree branches will move. 19 mph-25 mphLarge tree branches move, entire trees will sway if small. 25 mph-30 mphLarge branches will be in constant motion and walking against the wind becomes difficult.

Between the Lines

Fine shooting is both a science and an art, which is why skilled shooters are so highly respected. There is much that falls between the measurements and calibrations. Equipment factors such as scope mount, action type, barrel length, rifling twist rate, bullet configuration, fouling and even barrel flux resulting from high temperature-among others-all affect placement. Your strength, visual acuity, breathing, shooting position, steadiness and mood determine your mastery over the weapon. Add situational variables including wind, altitude (which changes air density), luminosity, visibility, angle of inclination, distance and so on, and you have an infinitely fluid equation that results in a different answer every time. How well you control and interpret these elements will make the difference between a hit and a miss.

One way to improve your skill is to practice with known target sizes, at given distances, under varying conditions. Deliberately set up so that the target image is too small or too large, the wind and light are different, you are shooting up or down hill, etc. How does a 125 cm target look at 400 meters? What about a 9 inch target at 100 yards? How does your perception change in low light at dawn or dusk? What happens when you are shooting up toward your target?

This sort of practice will gradually calibrate your eye and your mind until it becomes an extension of the scope. You will, in effect, become one with your weapon. In fact, the truth is that YOU are the weapon. The rifle is merely a tool.

Use the information you have obtained here to improve your performance. Happy shooting!

This article is the outcome of much research and the first-hand practice of many shooters. However, individual experiences vary. If you have results that differ from ours or conflict with our findings, we would love to hear your perspective.