Take a look at selecting shot size and choke size for bobwhite quail hunting
Nowadays, I use a 20-gauge, over-under Beretta 686 Silver Pigeon choked in skeet and modified, respectively. When I walk out into the uplands with a 30-inch barrel, I have a bad habit of slinging my gun over my shoulder a little too confidently. Why? Because the gun is a nice piece and I can trust that my No. 6 shot Kent Cartridge loads will consistently drop the explosive, bobwhite quail.
And, if you really want to be picky about it, I prefer to shoot my game birds with steel shot. I personally just don’t want lead in my meat, but that part is up to you.
If you think about the flight and escape habits of quail in their natural habitat, often they will sit tight in cover and hold for a pointing dog—assuming you have a pointing breed. Outside of that, if you’re anything like me, you’ve got a flushing retriever and you keep your actions closed and barrels loaded. There’s no time for tea, but I digress. Quail will flush fairly close and will often provide a reasonable shot if you take a little time to breathe before the shot.
What shot size is best for bobwhite quail?
If Prince Bob gives the pup a half-a-time-a-day, you should have within a 20 to 40 yard shot on a flushing bird. If you want more options, you’ve got the choice of No. 8 as well. I often skip over No. 7 1/2 simply because every time I shoot them birds never seem to fall dead on. My dog tends to do a little more work with the No. 7 1/2 shot as birds—yes, little 6-ounce bobwhites—seem to run off.
I think there may be some kind of jinx with me and No. 7 1/2, but, regardless, I do not recommend them for quail. Blame it on my Southern superstition if it pleases you, but regardless, you won’t catch me shooting them anymore.
What gauge is best for bobwhite quail?
It is my thought that if you’re reading this you have some kind of appreciation for the finer things in life. Why? Because you are chasing Mr. Bob. You’ve got some kind of fine shooting dog who’s working the heavy cover, thorns, and thickets that house and host our quarry. In addition to that pretty dog, you also likely have a nice-looking over-under Beretta like mine or your Grandaddy’s Winchester Model 12 pump gun.
At a time, Grandaddy was a quail specialist and now you’re in his footsteps. Either way, bobwhite quail hunting requires a bit of class and nostalgia, so shoot a gun that means something to you. The bird demands that much respect; the dog demands that much respect. Further, the habitat and landscape demand that footsteps be left by dog and man, birds are successfully retrieved in full, and memories are made along the way.
Wild Game Recipes: Spicy Brandy Cranberry Glazed Quail
I’ve shot quail with 12- through 28-gauge shotguns and even attempted with a 98-year-old .410. That didn’t last long due to more wasted gun power than shot birds. My choice gauges for wild bobwhite quail are primarily 20-gauges and secondarily, the classic 16-gauge side-by-side. Ammunition for 20-gauge shotguns is typically more readily available, especially in a pinch, though I would highly recommend soft-shooting 16-gauge RST shells if you prefer to run that gauge. For an older shotgun especially, the RST shells are a much lighter shooting load than most others and will put a little less wear and tear on Grandaddy’s old gun.
Concluding thoughts about hunting bobwhite quail
For sake of length, I will conclude because I’ve got a knack for talking shotguns to great length.
Obviously, if you have not noticed, I am a bit biased towards No. 6 loads because they are a size that’s been proven time and again. In the world of consumerism, many manufacturers are constantly producing loads for one reason or another. To this day I still do not understand the need for 3 1/2-inch loads and one definitely does not need them for a 6-ounce bird—2 3/4 inch shells will suffice. Further, quail are fairly fragile birds, so shooting No. 6 or No. 8 shot has been proven effective.
Author Durrell Smith Quail Hunting – Photo by Josh Same
Much of a man’s quail shooting ineptitude comes not from selecting the wrong shot size, but from the hunter’s irreverence to the ethics of hunting. Ethical hunting is inclusive of finding and retrieving downed game, with or without a dog.
For many like myself, hunting with a dog is essential for not just the experience of following a dog through the woods, but also to increase my chances of finding downed game. Shooting No. 6 for me has additionally made retrieving shot birds significantly easier as seldom do I find crippled birds or runners.
Configuring your shot size, pattern, choke and barrel length as well as studying the habits of the birds themselves all come together to make a complete and successful hunting experience. Hunting ethically is understanding all aspects of your shotgun including the best shot size and gauge, and with respect to Bob, I would rather chase game birds in a dignified and ethical manner. That means shooting No. 6 shot (preferably steel) through any gauge, .410 through 12, choosing a skeet and/or modified choke configuration, as well as bringing along an enthusiastic pup that will find and retrieve your game.
Let’s take a look at the Staccato P 2011 and what it has to offer. The Staccato brand used to be known as STI. They rebranded a few years back and are now called Staccato.
While doing that, they updated the look of their guns and pretty much just changed their marketing scheme.
The Staccato 2011s have a number of models, including a concealed carry model, full size model, and what we’re going to talk about today, the Staccato P.
Most people don’t realize that there is a pretty big difference between a 2011 and a 1911, and we did a quick article on it. You can check that out if you want, and the 2011 is slightly different than the 1911. It’s mostly due to the frame and a lot of times the caliber.
The caliber isn’t necessarily the only difference, but a lot of times the 2011s are 9mm, but there are 45s. So, let’s get into the Staccato P, because after all, that’s what you’re here for.
Let’s talk about the Staccato P’s features. You definitely want a gun at this price point to have features.
Pistols can only have so many, but for over $2,000, you do expect to get some very basic but at the same time advanced and polished features. This gun definitely comes with top notch features, so let’s dive into them.
Grip/Ergonomics
The grip on this gun is very interesting. If you don’t know, 2011s are two piece frames.
The second piece of the frame allows you to interchange it with polymer, an aluminum, titanium, or tungsten even frame for your 2011.
That makes it very light and also somewhat modular. It’s very interesting to grab this gun, because it’s all metal top construction and polymer grip.
When you grab the bottom, it almost feels like you’re grabbing a Glock frame but this one is much more polished.
The grips have the Staccato logo, which is a stylized star, and then the grip texture pattern.
Texturing
The texturing on the grips is actually interesting, because it’s the star logo turned on itself and duplicated.
It provides a pretty decent tactile feel but it’s not as abrasive as some grips, but at the same time, it does its job, and it does it well in that when you’re shooting it.
If you have a firm grip this grip texture is gonna be just fine.
Overall, I have no issues with the grip. Now, there is no way to change the panels on the 2011 like there would be if this was a 1911, because this frame would have to come totally off.
So if you want to change that, you would obviously have to get a whole different lower. The grips are actually molded into the trigger guard, and you would have to change out the whole piece.
Now that can be done, but obviously you’re going to be limited to what Staccato offers, so you pretty much have to take the grip out of the equation in this.
There is still your normal screw on the grip panel but here’s only one of them. It’s at the top of the grip, and that’s standard when you start talking 1911s.
Sights
Let’s talk a little bit about the standard Staccato P’s sights. This particular model is the RDO.
That stands for the red dot optic model, but naturally it still comes with sights, the front being a fiber optic sight.
I actually really like this fiber optic sight. I believe it’s green, although my green and yellow sometimes are a little rough.
Overall shooting this, I really like the fiber optic sight, and I’m not a fiber optic sight person.
However, it does work well on this gun. The rear sight has just your normal U, and has very sharp edges, but it also doesn’t have any dots, which I really like.
I like to run this style of iron sight, it reminds me of the Trijicon sight on my Glock 19, so this really fell into place.
Granted, I don’t have fiber optic sights on my Glock 19, but again, I don’t know why it really works for this gun. I don’t like fiber optic sights on nearly any other gun, so I’m rather surprised I liked it on the Staccato P.
I don’t know if it’s because it’s the 1911 or 2011-style gun that makes me like it, but I like it. That’s all I can tell you.
Overall, the sights are really good. You can change them, but personally, I wouldn’t. The only reason I would change this on this RDO model is to add a red dot sight.
Red Dot Sight
I plan to add a Trijicon RMR to the Staccato P RDO. Once it arrives I’ll at it to the gun and report bag.
Controls
So, let’s discuss the controls. The controls are your standard 1911 style controls. This is a single-action gun, which means you have to have the hammer cocked, obviously. Let’s start from the back and move to the front.
Safety
On the back of the grip, you have your palm safety. With that, you’re not going to be able to pull the trigger unless you have established your master grip and the palm safety’s activated. This palm safety is polymer-like the grip, so it’s not a metal pressure plate.
Grabbing it is seamless, and if you’re establishing your correct master grip, you’ll have no problems with this.
Moving forward on the gun, you have your safety. This safety is what you’d expect from a 1911 style safety.
It’s very tactile. There is a definite loud audible click.
It’s very easy to pull down. It’s very easy to engage with your thumb. It’s a simple push up. It’s a simple pull down.
It’s ambidextrous, so it’s on both sides. Overall, good safety. Not a fan of pistol safeties, but I understand the 1911s are going to have them, and on this one, it’s good.
I really like it. No problems with it, especially on the 1911. The lines are cut out. It’s very clean. It looks great, and it functions phenomenally.
Slide Stop
Moving further up the gun, we’ll go to the slide stop/slide release.
Of course, it’s still, a 1911 style gun.
There is one slide catch/release, whatever you want to call it. It’s only on the left side of the gun.
I found that it sits forward pretty far from my right thumb. I’m a right-handed shooter, so when it’s forward, it’s hard for me to get to it.
So, if I’m going to pull down on it to release the slide with the gun in the normal grip position, I’m going to pull down on it with my left thumb.
With that being said, I think it’s important to say that it is very easy. It is much easier than a stock Glock slide release.
It functions easily. It has a nice little ledge that allows you to pull down and send the slide forward.
Overall, this thing’s great. It does sit into the frame a little bit, which is an interesting design, but it’s not a negative. It’s just an observation.
Magazine Release
Last but not least for the controls is the magazine release. If there are any cons on any of the controls, it’s going to be the mag release.
Again, it’s just a little small quarter of an inch dot right behind the trigger well, that releases the magazine.
It works fine, but it is kind of gritty. It’s harder to press, but when you do, it does release the magazine and everything’s fine.
Overall, it’s a very minor complaint. It’s not something that is a deal breaker. I would just like to see something that is a little larger and easier to push.
It’s almost not worth mentioning, but in an effort to be fair, consistent, and thorough, it needed to be mentioned.
Trigger
So let’s talk about the trigger on the Staccato P.
They’re known to be hit or miss. This one is a polymer trigger and it is adjustable.
I have not adjusted it from the factory setting.
When you pull it, there is very little take-up, like most 1911s. You hit a wall, and upon pulling it, there’s just a very small wall, and then you get a decent little break and then release.
The reset will require you to go all the way out on the trigger, so the release is all the way back out, and then you come back and it’s a little squishy. The trigger’s not great, but it does work. It’s decent, and I’ll write more about that later.
Action
The 2011, like any 1911-style pistol, is a hammer-based design. It’s a single-action pistol so the hammer must be cocked for the gun to fire.
The hammer is extremely smooth and light weight. If you needed to manually cock the hammer for any reason you’ll have no issues making that happen.
If you want to replace the hammer you can, Staccato even offers that option with two types of coatings as well as four different styles to choose from.
Range Bag
If you are looking for the perfect range bag for your Staccato P than look now further than the Lynx Defense Pistol Range Bag.
It’s the perfect size and fit for the Staccato P or any 2011 in your collection.
Our Pistol Range Bag can fit all of the accessories you need to carry along with your Staccato P 2011.
While the Staccato P does come with its own case if you want to carry more than just your Staccato and its magazines you’ll want to upgrade to a larger pistol bag.
If you want to carry some ammo and range gear then grab a Lynx Defense Pistol Range Bag and head to the range.
Accessories
While the accessories for most 1911 and 2011 are available in abundance. But some of the Staccato P accessories are limited to what you can get from Staccato.
Staccato Grips/Magazine Releases
The grips and specifically the grip frame on the Staccato P can be completely removed and replaced.
There is a number of aftermarket options including full grip frames from Extreme Shooters or you can have a stippling service stipple your grip.
Personally, I like the Staccato P’s grip frame and texturing so I wouldn’t mess with it personally, but to each their own!
Staccato Trigger
The one issue I have with this gun is the plastic or polymer Staccato trigger. You would expect something at this price point and this level of firearm would at least come with a metal trigger.
Metal triggers are important to me because I feel like there is less of a chance they can be broken.
You can change out the trigger on the Staccato P and there are a number of YouTube videos and Forum posts that explain the process.
There are also a handful of people that tell you a gunsmith needs to do it, while that’s not a bad idea if you feel comfortable enough then don’t hesitate to make the trigger upgrade yourself.
Magazines/Bases
Magazines for the Staccato P aren’t cheap, thankfully it comes with 3 magazines from the factory.
The 17 round magazine for the Staccato clocks in at $70 /piece. So while they aren’t cheap they are metal and quality.
Aesthetics
Let’s talk about the aesthetics of the Staccato P. This thing looks great. All black gun, stainless steel barrel, so it’s silver. This thing is jet-black all over. All the parts match.
The slide matches, and the barrel and the guide rod are stainless steel silver, so they all look great.
The overall design of this has two CNC cutouts on the front and the back, so it has front serrations and rear serrations essentially, but they are a design of their own unique style.
I really like the branding that’s done on the Staccato. You have 2011 cut into the frame on the left side, and you have “Staccato P” cut into the frame on the right side.
You have the serial number etched into the frame, as well as the slide. It’s an interesting place in the slide. The serial number is actually in the mag well, so when you slide your slide back on the wall of the chamber, you have a matching serial number.
There’s also an American flag etched into the frame. Looks to be laser engraved, into the frame on the right side, just behind the trigger, just above the grip. Very, very tastefully done.
The magazine well has a plastic flared mag well. The thing is spot on if you ask me. There are even little cutouts where you could grab your mag if you needed to with your fingers.
The magazine well is exceptionally done. Underneath the frame, you have the name of the manufacturer, Staccato, etched in, and also the manufacturer’s location, which is Georgetown, Texas.
Overall, the aesthetics of this gun are impeccable. You get what you pay for four on the aesthetics. Form, function, and fantastic-looking gun. Going to be hard to beat the overall look and feel of this gun.
Shooting
Let’s talk about shooting the Staccato P.
Shooting the Staccato P, it’s a dream. It’s very much like the Para Ordnance 1911 that I have.
It’s not a 2011 because of the frame. It is a 1911, but it’s a Double Stack 1911 chamber of 9mm. It is as smooth as this gun.
Now, the frame is a little wider in the grip, which makes this gun for my small hands feel better while shooting.
Recoil is very, very, very negligible with this gun, and you can stay on target impeccably easily. I can’t stress how flat this gun is while you’re shooting it. This gun in 9mm is just an absolute dream to shoot.
The smoothness, the trigger, the reset, the magazine, everything just comes together.
Staccato P Final Thoughts
Once you shoot it, is it worth $2,300? Yes, and I think that’s an important thing to note that you’re getting what you pay for here.
I own a Para 1911 Double Stack. Would I pay for this if I already have that? Probably not, because they are nearly equal in all regards as far as shooting goes. If you wanted something new and up-to-date, then absolutely the Staccato P is a no-brainer.
But with that being said, if you already own a 2011 or you own a Double Stack 1911, I’m not sure the Staccato is bringing much to the table for you.
But if you don’t and you are in the market for one, the Staccato P is where I would go. There is no doubt. I would not look any further. This is where I’m going. This is great. This gun is phenomenal. If you want a 2011, pick up a Staccato P.
The end.
P.S. – If you want a blast from the past check out the similarities between the Browning Hi-Power and the double stack 1911’s of today.
Animal bite force is a complex science and you’re likely to find all kinds of conflicting figures, regardless of whether you measure in PSI (pounds per square inch), Newtons of force, or pounds of force. On top of this, conducting bite force tests is difficult and rarely a top priority for scientists studying animals.
If that’s true, how can we be sure which animals have the strongest bites in the world? Thanks to the testing some scientists have conducted and sophisticated computer modeling, we can determine a credible estimate of what an animal’s peak biting power could be.
Before we get to the top ten strongest bite forces in the animal kingdom, we’ll explain how bite forces are measured, why it matters for animals, and how we can model them.
Despite their fearsome reputation and iconic status, lions only have a slightly higher bite force than mastiff dogs. They rely on hunting in groups, dragging down and suffocating prey, so they never needed a bite force as strong as the solitary tigers and jaguars.
12. Nile Crocodile (3,000 – 5,000 psi)
I’ve found conflicting numbers when it comes to Nile crocodiles. The one study I found only used an eight-foot (2.43 m) specimen and extrapolated that a 16-foot (4.87 m) specimen would have a bite around 3,000 PSI. I also found people who believed the bite could exceed 5,000 PSI. In the end, it was too murky to include them in the above top ten, but they likely have the strongest bite force behind saltwater crocodiles and white sharks.
13. Bull Shark (478 psi)
Bull sharks have the strongest bite of any shark when you factor in body size. They’re much smaller than white sharks, reaching typical sizes of nine feet and around 800 pounds. White sharks of a similar size would only be capable of around 360 PSI.
14. Black Piranha (72 psi)
You’re probably looking at the measly 72 PSI bite force of a black piranha and wondering why it got mentioned here. Black piranhas grow to around a foot in length and at most weigh in around eight pounds (3.62 kg). Their bite force of 72 PSI is massive in comparison to their body weight, and this measurement came from a fish weighing only around 2 ½ pounds (1.13 kg).
15. Tasmanian Devil (200 psi)
16. Orcas (19,000 psi)
While also untested, a killer whale can theoretically exert 19,000 psi in bite force. This is mainly due to their sheer size, as they can weigh up to six tons (6096.28 kg) and reach thirty feet (9.14 m) in length. Most evidence is based on simulations, theory, and captive whale studies, so it did not merit a spot on the list.
You may also like: Learn the 21 Amazing Types of Whale Found on the Ocean: Complete with Images, Facts, and More!
Strongest Bite Force By Type of Animal
Mammal
Reptile
Fish
You may also like: Meet the 25 Amazing Types of Sharks: Complete with Images, Fun Facts, Infographic, and More!
Human Bite Force: Comparison With Humans
What About Dinosaurs?
Some of the largest and most powerful creatures to ever roam the Earth are now extinct. Apex predator dinosaurs like the Tyrannosaurus Rex and unmatched marine predators like the megalodon had incredibly strong jaws and crushing bite forces.
How Would We Even Know?
Strongest Dinosaur Bite Force
1. Megapiranha
The now extinct relative of modern-day piranhas, mega piranha, grew to around thirty pounds. Just like its ancestors living among us today, it had an incredibly strong bite for its size. In theory, mega piranha was capable of a bite between 279 and 1,067 psi.
2. Megalodon
3. T-Rex
The infamous T-rex boasts likely one of the strongest overall bite forces of any land animal to ever exist. Their jaws were capable of putting out a force of over 35,0000 psi. This would have been extra helpful to take down the large megafauna it coexisted with and preyed on.
Depending upon your viewpoint, the wild hog ranks as high as a “beast of venery” … which equaled pursuit of the esteemed red stag by Medieval royalty … to loathed, destructive, costly vermin to be shot on sight and killed by any means possible.
The wild boar remains revered as a top game animal in its original range in Europe and western Asia. It was even imported as a game animal to Australia and to the British Isles. In places like Germany, Hungary, and Poland, hunts for wild boar are conducted by highly respected outfitters with tradition and pageantry to this day. Yet, in much of their North American range, what we know as wild hogs are destructive, prolific nuisance animals. Texas is the epicenter of wild hog overpopulation with increasing tremors widening out across much of the United States and California. The agricultural damage from feral hogs in Texas alone is estimated at more than $50 million each year, with another $7 million spent annually by private landowners in the Lone Star State attempting to control hogs and fix the damage they cause. Across the United States it’s estimated that feral hogs cause more than $1 billion in negative economic impact. Feral hog populations are rapidly increasing and causing problems as far north as Pennsylvania and New York.
This diversity of views of the boar or hog creates an even larger variety of hunting opportunities that are rapidly moving hog hunting up many hunters’ … and outfitters’ … hit parade. The fact that the meat from wild hogs is bountiful and delicious when properly cared for is a bonus that further escalates the popularity of hog hunting wherever they are found.
As more hunters take an interest in pursuing wild boar, more quality outfitters are ramping up their operations to meet the hunting need. OutfittersRating.com is the place to search out highly-rated wild boar and feral hog hunting outfitters and guides.
Wild Boar / Feral Hog Facts
The big question is, “What is the difference between a wild boar and a feral hog?”
The right answer is, “Very little.”
The real Eurasian Pig, often called a “Russian Boar,” is the original hog. It was from these wild lines that pigs were domesticated some 10,000 years ago. The first hogs in North America were brought to Florida in 1539 with the Spaniards. There were no hogs of any kind in North America prior to that introduction. (The javelina or collared peccary of the U.S. desert southwest and Mexico is not a true swine. It is a species unto itself.) Naturally, it wasn’t long until some of these domestic pigs escaped and established themselves as the original wild boar populations in the Americas.
Over the following centuries, especially the 19th and 20th, some true Eurasian Wild Boar were brought into the U.S. at various times by hunting preserves and private landowners to offer for hunting and to revive the “look” of Eurasian boar in their huntable feral hog herds. However, in North America today, all free ranging wild hogs are either generations of domestic pigs reverted to the wild or at most feral hogs hybridized with escaped Eurasian boar.
After only a generation or two in the wild, domestic hogs regain many traits of their ancestors including longer hair and protruding tusks. This is why it is possible to see wild boar in North America in nearly any color and spot pattern common to domestic hogs as well as animals that look very “Russian.” The true Eurasian Wild Boar has longer straight hair and is uniformly colored in dark brown trending toward black.
In feral hogs in North America, average weights vary between 75 and 250 pounds at maturity. Hunters and trappers occasionally take 300 pounders or slightly bigger pigs in optimal habitat conditions. Feral hogs of 500 pounds or more sometimes make the front page of local newspapers, but they are exceedingly rare.
Eurasian boar in their home ranges average between 100-200 pounds at maturity, though seem to vary nearly as widely in size as their North American cousins. Generally speaking, they are larger-bodied the farther they are from the equator in either direction. This is a common trait among animals that live over a great north/south range. Consider the white-tailed deer. In the northern hemisphere southern subspecies are smaller-bodied and northern subspecies are larger. Among zoologists it’s called Bergmann’s Rule.
Hog populations can grow so rapidly that there’s an urban legend type belief among some that “they are born pregnant.” That’s not the case, but they are among the most prolific animals on the face of the earth. Sows average 1.5 litters per year … and since that’s an average it means some have even more! Average litter size is six piglets. Sows generally have their first litter at just over a year of age, but they can be sexually mature at six to eight months of age or even less. Because of their proclivity for proliferation, some studies in Texas have shown that the huge population there (estimated at nearly 3 million feral hogs) could double in just more than five years!
Eurasian Wild Boar populations are also growing in much of their original and reestablished range. In Germany, for example, there are reports that average litters are getting bigger and that the animals are far more common in suburban and even urban environments. Large and growing populations are also found in Australia, New Zealand, and South America.
Wild boar and feral hogs are opportunistic omnivores which is a fancy way of saying they’ll eat about anything they can find when they can find it, including carrion. It’s estimated that, in general, about 80 percent of their diet is plant material and 20 percent is animal matter. The animal matter can be anything they can catch, corner or find dead.
Feral hogs and wild boar have a superbly developed sense of smell which can detect preferred food sources even several feet below the ground. Their sense of smell is also their Number One defense against predators including human hunters. They can also hear and interpret sound well, so quiet stalking is essential. Their least developed sense is sight, so it’s possible to get away with some movement in stalking hogs … sometimes.
Wild Boar and Feral Hog Hunting
Particularly in Europe, the wild boar remains highly regarded as a game animal. A large boar is considered a top trophy among traditional hunters. Hunts in countries like Germany, France, Hungary, and more are conducted with great pomp, circumstance, and reverence to the game. Most of the hunting is done in large, communal driven hunts in which beaters are employed in the effort to push the boar past the waiting guns. Hunters are encouraged to shoot as many boar as possible as the harvest is shared or sold in the community. In this type of hunting, shots are commonly taken at animals on the move.
The other traditional European type of boar hunting is to wait in elevated stands for the animals to travel established trails to feeding areas. Much of this hunting is done on properties managed to maximize production of game, especially boar. Frequently these are multi-species hunts in which the hunter may also have the opportunity to take anything from boar, stags, and roe deer to European hare. It was this type of hunting that spawned the drilling style of combination rifles/shotguns.
Hunting hogs in North America these days is a comparative free-for-all! Hogs are hunted by baiting, chasing with hounds, stand-sitting, spot-and-stalk, incidental to other game, spot-lighting, and, now, even by gunning from helicopters. Most states have liberalized or even eliminated seasons and bag limits on feral hogs. A great benefit of this is freedom to hunt hogs when other game seasons are closed and to pursue them with hunting tools of your choice including rifles, handguns, muzzleloaders, shotgun slugs, bows, crossbows, etc. … even air guns, which are gaining popularity as a challenging, close-range, one-shot, hog hunting tool.
Pursued as much as they are by humans these days, feral hogs have adapted by becoming extremely wary and nocturnal. Combined with their incredible sense of smell, this wariness makes the lowly feral hog a highly challenging and rewarding game animal.
Additionally, hogs are tough, tenacious animals. Both original wild boar and boars from feral lines of a couple generations or older have a thick, cartilaginous shield beneath their hide covering approximately the front third of their bodies. This is an evolutionary defense developed to shield the boar’s vitals from the vicious tusks of other boars during their frequent fights for mates. Yet it works pretty well against bullets and arrows, too. Most rifle bullets will easily penetrate the shield on one side and reach the vitals, but frequently will not exit through the offside shield. This can be a problem if the boar does not drop on the spot, because there will be little to no blood trail to aid in recovery. It’s essential that bow hunters wait for a proper quartering away shot to slip the arrow behind the back edge of the shield and forward into the vitals. A classic broadside shot will usually see the arrow stopped short of the vitals by the thick shield.
Though wild boar and feral hogs are conditioned to avoid humans, they will fight when cornered and their tusks are razor sharp. They can inflict serious injuries to dogs that have them bayed and/or human hunters who get too close. However, for some hunters that danger is part of the rush of hunting feral hogs. One increasingly common hunting method is for a dog or dogs to bay the hog. When the human hunters arrive one gets into position behind the hog waiting for the opportunity to grab the boar’s hind legs while the dogs keep the tusks trained on themselves. By getting the hogs’ hind legs off the ground – wheel barrow style – the hunter can safely control the animal. Then a hunting partner either finishes off the hog with a large knife or, sometimes, castrates the animal for release. This, obviously, prevents the boar from reproducing and allows it to grow larger than an intact boar and with much finer quality meat for harvest later.
Another hunting method recently legalized in Texas is called heli-hogging. It is locating and shooting hogs from an open-door helicopter. Combined with the exponentially growing interest in AR platform types of rifles, heli-hogging’s introduction has seen an explosion of interest with well-equipped outfitters enjoying waiting lists for hunts that are months, even years long.
Training a German Shorthaired Pointer to hunt can be a rewarding experience for both the dog and the owner. These dogs are natural hunters and have been bred for generations to excel in the field. However, proper training is essential to ensure the dog is safe, obedient, and effective in the hunt.
One of the first steps in training a German Shorthaired Pointer to hunt is establishing a solid foundation of obedience. This includes basic commands such as sit, stay, come, and heel. The dog should also be trained to respond to hand signals and whistle commands, which will be important in the field. Establishing a hierarchy with the dog is essential, making it clear that the owner is the pack leader.
Once a strong foundation of obedience has been established, the dog can begin training in specific hunting skills. This includes teaching the dog to track and locate the game, to point and flush birds, and to retrieve the downed game. Consistency, patience, and positive reinforcement are essential to successful training. A German Shorthaired Pointer can become a skilled and reliable hunting companion with proper training.
German Shorthaired Pointers (GSP) is a versatile breed first developed in Germany in the late 19th century. According to the American Kennel Club (AKC), the breed was created by crossing various breeds, including the Spanish Pointer, Foxhound, and English Pointers. The goal was to create a dog that could do it all – hunt, retrieve, and track – and the GSP was the result.
Characteristics of German Shorthaired Pointers
GSPs are medium to large dogs with a distinctive liver and white or black and white coat pattern. They are known for their athleticism, intelligence, and loyalty. These dogs are highly trainable but have a lot of energy and require regular exercise and mental stimulation. GSPs are excellent hunting dogs and have a strong prey drive. They are versatile and can hunt various games, including birds, rabbits, and deer. They are also excellent retrievers and can retrieve both on land and in water. In addition to their hunting abilities, GSPs are also great family dogs. They are affectionate and love to be around people. They are good with children and other pets but have a strong prey drive, so caution should be taken when introducing them to smaller animals. Overall, GSPs are a breed that requires an experienced owner who can provide them with the exercise, training, and mental stimulation they need to thrive. With the proper care and attention, they make excellent hunting companions and loyal family pets.
Preparing for Training
Before beginning training, it is essential to prepare both the dog and the trainer. This section will cover the physical and mental preparation needed for successful training and the required equipment.
Physical Preparation
Training a German Shorthaired Pointer to hunt requires a certain level of physical fitness. The dog and the trainer should be in good health and able to withstand long periods of activity. It is recommended to start with short training sessions and gradually increase the duration as the dog and trainer build endurance.
Additionally, it is essential to ensure the dog is up to date on all necessary vaccinations and has received a clean bill of health from a veterinarian. This will help prevent any potential health issues from interfering with training.
Mental Preparation
Training a German Shorthaired Pointer to hunt also requires mental preparation. The dog should have a strong foundation in basic obedience commands, such as sit, stay, come, and heel. It is recommended to work on these commands before beginning hunting training.
The trainer should also clearly understand the training process and be patient and consistent in their approach. It is essential to remain calm and avoid becoming frustrated or angry with the dog during training sessions.
Equipment Needed
Several pieces of equipment are needed for training a German Shorthaired Pointer to hunt. The following is a list of some of the essential items:
Hunting vest
Training collar
Leash
Whistle
Bird launcher
Birds for training
The hunting vest should have pockets for storing training equipment and birds. The training collar should be fitted appropriately and used with positive reinforcement techniques. The leash should be sturdy and long enough to allow the dog to move freely while maintaining control.
The whistle is used for recall training and should be consistently used during training sessions. The bird launcher is used to simulate the experience of a bird taking flight and should be used in conjunction with live birds for training purposes.
Basic Training
Before a German Shorthaired Pointer can become an effective hunting dog, it must undergo basic training. This training is essential to develop the dog’s obedience, socialization, and hunting skills. Basic training is divided into three sub-sections: obedience training, socialization training, and introduction to hunting.
Obedience Training
Obedience training is the foundation of all dog training. It teaches the dog to follow commands and behave appropriately in different situations. The training should start as early as possible, preferably when the dog is a puppy. The dog should be taught basic commands such as sit, stay, come, and heel. These commands are essential for controlling the dog during a hunt.
The training should be positive and reward-based. The dog should be praised and rewarded for following commands. Punishment should be avoided as it can lead to fear and aggression. The training should be consistent, and the dog should be trained in different environments to ensure it can follow commands.
Socialization Training
Socialization training ensures the dog is comfortable around people and other animals. The training should start as early as possible, preferably when the dog is a puppy. To ensure comfort, the dog should be exposed to different people, animals, and environments.
The training should be positive and reward-based. The dog should be praised and rewarded for good behavior. The training should be consistent, and the dog should be exposed to different situations to ensure comfort.
Introduction to Hunting
The introduction to hunting should start after the dog has undergone obedience and socialization training. The training should begin with basic exercises such as retrieving and pointing. The dog should be taught to retrieve objects such as balls and dummies.
The dog should also be taught to point at birds and other games. The training should be positive and reward-based. The dog should be praised and rewarded for good behavior. The training should be consistent, and the dog should be exposed to different hunting situations to ensure it can perform in any hunting situation.
Basic training is essential to develop a German Shorthaired Pointer’s obedience, socialization, and hunting skills. The training should be positive and reward-based, and the dog should be exposed to different situations to ensure it can perform.
Advanced Training
After your German Shorthaired Pointer has mastered the basics of obedience and hunting, it’s time to move on to more advanced training. This will help your dog become a more skilled and versatile hunting partner.
Hunting Techniques
Advanced hunting techniques involve teaching your dog to work with you to locate and flush out the game. This can include preparing your dog to follow hand signals or whistle commands to stay within range and perform a specific area. It can also involve teaching your dog to work with other dogs to cover a larger size and flush out more games.
Another important skill to teach your dog is how to track wounded games. This involves teaching your dog to follow a blood trail and locate the animal. This can be a challenging skill to teach, but it can make a big difference in your success as a hunter.
Retrieving Training
In addition to flushing out the game, your German Shorthaired Pointer should also be skilled in a retrieving match that has been shot. This involves teaching your dog to retrieve birds, other small game, and larger animals like deer.
Retrieving training should start with simple exercises, such as retrieving a dummy or toy. Gradually increase the difficulty by adding distractions, such as other dogs or people. It’s important to teach your dog to retrieve gently, not damage the game, and to release the game on command.
Water Training
Many hunting situations involve water, so teaching your German Shorthaired Pointer to be comfortable and skilled in the water is essential. This can include teaching your dog to swim, retrieve game from water, and work in marshy or swampy areas.
Water training should start with simple exercises in shallow water and gradually progress to deeper water and more challenging conditions. Using positive reinforcement and making the training fun for your dog is essential.
Maintaining Your German Shorthaired Pointer’s Skills
After training your German Shorthaired Pointer to hunt, it is essential to maintain their skills. Consistency in training, regular exercise, and proper nutrition are critical factors in keeping your GSP in top hunting condition.
Consistency in Training
Consistency is crucial in maintaining your GSP’s hunting skills. Training your dog at least once weekly is recommended to keep their skills sharp. Using the same commands and techniques during initial training is essential to avoid confusion. Consistency in training will help your GSP maintain their hunting abilities and improve their overall performance in the field.
Regular Exercise
Regular exercise is vital for keeping your GSP in top physical condition. Hunting requires a lot of energy, so providing your dog with enough exercise is essential to maintain its stamina. Daily walks or runs, swimming, and playing fetch are great ways to keep your GSP active and healthy. A well-exercised dog is likelier to perform better in the field and have a more enjoyable hunting experience.
Proper Nutrition
Proper nutrition is essential for maintaining your GSP’s hunting skills. A well-balanced diet that includes protein, carbohydrates, and healthy fats will give your dog the energy they need to perform at its best. It is recommended to feed your GSP high-quality dog food that is specifically formulated for active dogs. Additionally, providing your dog with fresh water at all times is crucial to its overall health and performance.
Maintaining your German Shorthaired Pointer’s hunting skills requires Consistency in training, regular exercise, and proper nutrition. Following these guidelines ensures your GSP is in top physical and mental condition for their next hunting trip.
Conclusion
Training a German Shorthaired Pointer to hunt can be a fun and rewarding experience for both the dog and the owner. It requires patience, Consistency, and dedication. The key is training the dog at a young age and maintaining a consistent training schedule.
It is important to remember that every dog is different and may require different training methods. Owners should be willing to adapt and modify their training techniques to suit their dog’s individual needs.
Some essential tips to keep in mind when training a German Shorthaired Pointer to hunt include:
Starting training at a young age
Using positive reinforcement techniques
Maintaining a consistent training schedule
Gradually increasing the difficulty of training exercises
Providing plenty of exercise and mental stimulation outside of training sessions
Owners should also be aware of the potential risks and dangers associated with hunting, such as exposure to wildlife, harsh weather conditions, and possible injury. It is important to take necessary precautions to ensure the safety of both the dog and the owner.
Overall, training a German Shorthaired Pointer to hunt can be a challenging but rewarding experience. With patience, dedication, and a willingness to adapt, owners can help their dogs reach their full potential as skilled and reliable hunting companions.
As a gun enthusiast, you might find yourself constantly looking for ways to improve the performance of your favorite firearm. Whether it’s accuracy, speed, or reliability, there are several ways to make your gun more efficient. In this article, we will discuss a few ways to improve the performance of your favorite gun.
One of the most important components of a firearm is the barrel. It’s the part of the gun that the bullet travels through, and it’s responsible for accuracy and range. Upgrading your gun’s barrel can significantly improve its performance. There are several types of barrels on the market, such as stainless steel, carbon fiber, and chrome-lined. Stainless steel barrels are a popular choice because they are corrosion-resistant and durable. Carbon fiber barrels are lightweight and offer excellent accuracy, while chrome-lined barrels are known for their longevity. Whichever type of barrel you choose, make sure to do your research and find one that is compatible with your firearm.
In addition to upgrading your barrel, you can also consider adding a muzzle brake or compensator to your gun. These devices help reduce recoil, allowing you to shoot more accurately and quickly. A muzzle brake works by redirecting the gases that are expelled when you fire your gun, while a compensator reduces the amount of upward force that the gun produces.
Clean Your Gun Regularly
Regular cleaning and maintenance are essential to the longevity and performance of your firearm. A dirty gun can cause malfunctions, misfires, and accuracy issues. It’s important to clean your gun after every use and to inspect it regularly for any signs of wear and tear.
When cleaning your gun, make sure to use the right tools and materials. Use a cleaning solvent to remove any dirt, debris, or residue from the barrel and other parts of the gun. Use a bore brush to scrub the inside of the barrel, and use a cleaning rod to push a patch through the barrel to remove any remaining debris. Finish by lubricating the gun with oil or grease to prevent rust and wear.
Upgrade Your Gun’s Trigger
The trigger is the part of the gun that you pull to fire the bullet. A good trigger can significantly improve the accuracy and speed of your firearm. There are several types of triggers on the market, such as single-stage, two-stage, and adjustable. Single-stage triggers are the most common type and are found on most firearms. They have a consistent pull weight and break when you reach the end of the trigger’s travel. Two-stage triggers have a longer travel and a lighter first stage, followed by a heavier second stage. Adjustable triggers allow you to customize the pull weight and travel to your liking.
Consider Upgrading Your Gun’s Chassis
Another component to consider when upgrading your firearm is the chassis. The chassis is the frame that holds the gun’s action and components, such as the trigger and magazine. Upgrading your gun’s chassis can improve its accuracy, stability, and durability. One popular option is an XLR chassis, a modular chassis system, which allows you to customize your gun’s components and accessories to your liking. These systems are often made from lightweight materials, such as aluminum or carbon fiber, and can be adjusted for the length of pull and cheek weld. Upgrading your gun’s chassis can also make it easier to mount optics or other accessories, such as bipods or slings. A good chassis can improve your gun’s balance, making it easier to handle and shoot accurately. When considering a chassis upgrade, make sure to research different options and find one that is compatible with your firearm and shooting style.
Upgrade Your Gun’s Sights
Having accurate sights on your firearm is crucial for hitting your targets with precision. Upgrading your gun’s sights can make a significant difference in your shooting performance. There are various types of sights available, including iron sights, red dot sights, holographic sights, and scopes. Iron sights are the most common type and are found on many firearms. Red dot sights are becoming increasingly popular, especially in the tactical and competitive shooting community. They offer a quick target acquisition and are useful in low-light conditions. Holographic sights are similar to red dot sights but provide a more extensive field of view and are less prone to parallax errors. Scopes are an excellent option for long-range shooting and provide magnification and range-finding capabilities. Upgrading your gun’s sights can help you shoot more accurately and efficiently.
Consider Ammunition Selection
The type of ammunition you use can also affect your gun’s performance. Different types of ammunition can impact factors such as accuracy, recoil, and velocity. When choosing ammunition, consider your gun’s barrel length, twist rate, and intended use. For example, if you are shooting at a longer range, you may want to consider using ammunition with a heavier bullet and higher velocity. If you are shooting for self-defense, you may want to consider using hollow-point ammunition, which can expand on impact and cause greater damage to your target. Additionally, you should choose ammunition that is compatible with your firearm and recommended by the manufacturer.
Practice Proper Shooting Techniques
Lastly, improving your performance with your favorite firearm requires regular practice and proper shooting techniques. Shooting accurately and quickly is a skill that takes time and practice to develop. Proper shooting techniques, such as proper grip, stance, and trigger control, can help you shoot more accurately and consistently. Additionally, regular practice at the range or in a controlled environment can help you identify areas where you need improvement and work to correct them. By practicing regularly and using proper techniques, you can become more proficient with your firearm and improve your overall shooting performance.
There are several ways to improve the performance of your favorite firearm, whether it’s accuracy, speed, or reliability that you’re looking to enhance. Upgrading components such as the barrel, trigger, chassis, sights, and ammunition selection can make a significant difference in your shooting performance. Regular cleaning and maintenance, as well as practicing proper shooting techniques, are also crucial for improving your skills and maximizing your gun’s potential. By investing time and effort into upgrading and maintaining your firearm, you can enhance its performance and get the most out of your shooting experience. Remember to always prioritize safety and follow proper handling procedures when working with firearms.
Wild edible roots and tubers can form the basis for a wild foods diet, providing more calories and nutrition than a few wild foraged weeds.
A while back I was having lunch with my little ones in a park, and a young couple, seemingly on a first date was not too far off. They were having an animated conversation about, of all things…foraging!
I couldn’t help but listen, giggling to myself that the world of dating has come a long way since I was younger, and now these two are trying to woo each other with their foraging prowess.
One of them would brag about their haul of wild leeks (aka. ramps) earlier in the season, and the other was quick to drop every fact they knew about those tasty wild bulbs.
I don’t often meet other foragers out and about in the world and it was tricky for me to bite my tongue as they talked about my passion just a few yards away. Not my place, not my date…but I do hope it works out for that pair!
Right before they headed out, they both vehemently agreed that you never, under any circumstances forage wild roots! Never! That’s just so incredibly dangerous!
Anything below ground has to be off-limits….which I’ll admit is kind of ironic, given the previous brag about wild leeks, though they’re probably only harvesting the leaves.
Irony aside, I was kind of surprised. I dig plenty of wild roots, though I’m no expert on the subject. Of course, there are toxic species, that’s true of leaves, fruit, and anything else.
For some reason, people are intimidated by foraging roots and tubers, partially because it involves a bit more work than plucking edible wild berries off a bush. But also I think a lot of the reluctance stems from fear.
It’s true, there are some incredibly toxic roots out there. But there are also some incredibly poisonous berries, and that doesn’t stop just about everyone from picking blackberries along the hiking trail.
Why? Well, a blackberry looks like a blackberry of course! There’s really nothing that looks like a blackberry, except other edible rubus species, which are also tasty and delicious.
That’s true of many roots as well, and if you learn them, they’ll be no less intimidating than trailside berries.
That experience got me thinking, and I really want to write more about the dense calorie sources that are available in the form of wild roots and tubers. There’s a handful that I forage regularly, but still, there are more that I know but rarely bother with.
I consider myself an adventurous forager, but ya know, sometimes I get lazy like anybody. I know cattail roots make excellent flour, but sometimes lounging by the pond is nicer than wading into the muck to harvest pancake ingredients.
Still, I need a new challenge, and this is enough to spur me into it. A few years back, I decided to try to find every edible berry and fruit in my local landscape, and I came up with more than 50 different species.
Next, I’m going underground to try to find as many edible wild roots as possible.
This obviously isn’t an exhaustive list, and I’m sure there are plenty of tasty roots that I haven’t tried (yet). I’ll work to add to it over time, and please do leave me a note in the comments if you see any that definitely should make the list.
I’ll add links as I write about each one, but for now, I’m posting this as a starting point mainly because I’d like feedback.
What’s your experience foraging wild roots and tubers? What are your favorites? What’s missing from my list?
(Leave me a note below in the comments.)
I did some quick research, and here’s what I found for edible roots. Most I knew, but some I had never heard of, and I have no verification of their edibility beyond spotty online sources, so please verify with other sources and don’t just take my word for this (or anything really, you should always double-check).
Arrowroot (Sagittaria latifolia)
Bistort (Polygonum bistortoides)
Bull Thistle (Cirsium vulgare)
Burdock (Arctium sp.)
Cattails (Typha sp.)
Chickory (Cichorium intybus)
Chufa (Cyperus esculentus)
Cucumber Root (Medeola virginiana)
Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale)
Daylily (Hemerocallis sp.)
Evening Primrose (Oenothera sp.)
Garlic Mustard (Alliaria petiolata)
Ground Nut (Apios americana)
Lesser Celandine (Ficaria verna)
Lotus, American (Nelumbo lutea)
Pignut (Conopodium majus)
Ramps or Wild Leeks (Allium tricoccum)
Sego Lily (Calochortus nuttallii)
Shepherd’s Purse (Capsella bursa-pastoris)
Spring Beauty (Claytonia lanceolata)
Solomon’s Seal (Polygonatum sp.)
Sunchokes or Jerusalem Artichokes (Helianthus tuberosus)
Trout Lily (Erythronium pudica)
Wild Carrot or Queen Anne’s Lace (Daucus carota)
Wild Parsnip (Pastinaca sativa)
Wild Potato (Orogenia linearifolia)
Be aware that many of these require processing to consume, and are not edible raw straight from the ground. Beyond that, others have toxic or dangerous parts.
The leaves of wild parsnip, for example, can cause a rash from contact with skin. Wild carrot has a deadly toxic look alike too.
Be careful, and do your research before attempting to forage any of these wild roots. Always consult multiple sources, and always be 100% sure of your ID before eating any wild plant.
This is, as I said, just a jumping-off point for further research…and a bucket list of sorts for myself.
Medicinal Roots
Beyond the edible roots, there are a few wild roots and tubers that are “edible” but generally consumed in small quantities for medicinal benefit. You can harvest them and they’re definitely useful, but you’re not exactly going to cook a meal from them.
I’m just adding these here for completeness, given that they are eaten medicinally, even if in small quantities. Know that while they may be edible in small doses, that doesn’t mean they’re not problematic or even toxic in large doses.
Barberry (Berberis vulgaris) – An upright invasive bush in the US, and I commonly eat the berries. Haven’t yet harvested roots.
Comfrey (Symphytum officinale) – Most sources suggest sticking to external uses only, since even small doses may be toxic, though it has a history of internal use historically.
Dock (Rumex Sp.) – Reportedly edible, but I have a reaction to it, and it tastes horrible. Plenty of people use it for both food and medicine though.
Echinacea (Echinacea purpurea) – We regularly make echinacea tincture and echinacea tea.
Elecampane (Inula helenium) – We use this for homemade cough syrup, and I personally find it extremely effective.
Marshmallow (Althaea officinalis) – Marshmallow root tea is incredibly soothing for sore throats and cough, and I keep it on the shelf for winter remedies.
Mullein (Verbascum thapsus) – I use the leaves and flowers, and only recently learned the root is used medicinally as well.
Japanese Knotweed (Reynoutria japonica) – Traditionally used for Lyme disease.
Valerian (Valeriana Officinalis) – Used as a sleep aid, often as a herbal tincture.
Wild Ginger (Asarum canadense) – Small doses, and use caution as it may be toxic.
Poisonous Roots
Though obviously you’re not just going to dig up any root and eat it out there in the wild, there are a few to really avoid while foraging roots.
This is definitely not an exhaustive list, but just a few of the most common poisonous roots, especially those that have edible look-alikes.
As always, make sure you’re 100% positive on your identification before eating any wild plant, and always consult more than one source when trying to identify a plant.
Belladonna (Atropa belladonna) ~ Most poisonings are from the berries, which are really beautiful and especially attractive to kids. The whole plant is deadly toxic though.
Bloodroot (Sanguinaria canadensis) ~ Sometimes used medicinally in external preparations, I don’t think it’s worth the risk. It can cause extreme contact burns and I avoid it altogether. Still a beautiful spring ephemeral to appreciate in the forest, just enjoy with your eyes.
Elderberry Root (Sambucus sp.) ~ Though the berries are edible and medicinal when cooked, all other parts of the plant at considered toxic.
False Hellebore (Veratrum viride) ~ Occasionally confused for ramps by novice foragers since they appear at the same time in the early spring. Other than being low-growing green leaves, they don’t really look anything like ramps in my opinion. Still, avoid them as a toxic plant.
Greater Celandine (Chelidonium majus)
Jack in the Pulpit (Arisaema triphyllum)
Mandrake (Mandragora sp.)
Pokeweed (Phytolacca americana) ~ Leaves are sometimes consumed with the right preparation, even though some sources list the whole plant as toxic. Avoid the roots and berries though.
Water Hemlock (Cicuta sp.) ~ A close look-alike with Queen Anne’s lace, but deadly toxic. I avoid Queen Anne’s Lace roots for this reason.
Good habitat protects quail from aerial predators, such as hawks.
This Anson County preserve owner has ideas for establishing quail habitat and restoring bird populations.
Anyone who loves quail hunting — or longs for the days when bobwhites were widespread in North Carolina — is restricted mostly to preserve hunting, if they want a chance to pursue these fast-flying game birds.
A few state game lands contain quail, but they’re exceptions.
Most preserve hunters aren’t interested in the glory days of quail hunting, nor the land management necessary to have property that produces huntable numbers of quail. Instead, they pay to walk behind well-trained bird dogs and a professional handler to see points, flush quail and experience the rush that comes from a covey rise.
For the vast majority of hunters, these birds nearly have disappeared at the family farms, untended fields and woodlot edges that once harbored tens of thousands of quail across the Southeast — and North Carolina is in that category.
Potential problems for quail have been speculated about for years. They include conversion of pastures to fescue, diseases, bad weather and increasing numbers of natural enemies. The problem is doubly perplexing because of success stories of other species, particularly deer and wild turkeys. Whitetails and turkeys have survived and thrived at the same habitats where bobwhite numbers have plummeted.
So why are preserves the main places to find quail today in North Carolina — with the exception of some large private farms and a few game lands?
The answer is clear — lack of habitat.
The South once was dominated by small farms. Farmers rotated crops but allowed some fields to remain unplowed. Natural vegetation growing in untended fields provided excellent food and cover for quail. Field-edge vegetation also was prevalent, creating nesting, roosting and feeding sites for quail.
But after farm machinery became more mechanized after World War II, most farmers plowed their fields annually, eradicated brushy field borders and cleaned out ditches, removing undergrowth such as honeysuckle and briars.
In North Carolina, that left pine forests and open hardwoods — neither suitable for quail survival — and that’s not to mention the conversion of former agricultural land to housing developments, more roads and urban/suburban sprawl.
With their habitat disappearing, quail became scarce. About the only places now with quality quail habitat are found at hunting preserves, managed specifically to provide food and cover by hunting-preserve operators who expend a tremendous amount of capital and work in order to create properties with suitable landscapes for bobwhites.
Once quail hunting could be enjoyed by nearly everyone with a decent pointer or setter, from the poorest kid living on with his family in a share-cropper’s cabin to Piedmont farmers and sons to the richest men in the country.
Habitat was key then, and it remains so today.
Don McKenzie, director of the National Bobwhite Conservation Initiative wrote in the Fall 20112 issue of the N.C. Wildlife Resources Commission’s Upland Gazette, that lack of habitat was the major problem causing quail to disappear.
“Habitat degradation at landscape scales is the root of the range-wide quail and grassland bird problem,” he wrote. “Regardless of whether you are in North Carolina or any other southeastern state, look around and ask yourself ‘Where is the quail habitat?’
“It should be quickly obvious that the proper question is not ‘Where have all the quail gone?’ Instead, the question should be, ‘How are quail managing to hang on at all in such hostile landscapes?’”
The answer is what people such as 35-year-old Jason Kiker, who operates Buchanan Shoals Sportsman’s Preserve, know and have acted upon to benefit quail and hunters. He uses innovative techniques for rearing and protecting the birds.
Kiker manages 5,300 acres in southern Anson County. The Pee Dee River flows adjacent to some of the preserve’s property, marked mostly by pines with scattered hardwood forests and a few fields.
A 2000 N.C. State University forestry-management graduate, Kiker intensively manages Buchanan Shoals for small and big game, including quail.
“My dad (Paul Kiker) actually started the club,” he said. “He ran the operation for a couple of years.”
Before Kiker took over the full-time operation of Buchanan Shoals, he was a forestry management specialist handling about 250,000 acres of timber.
“We do lots of things for quail,” he said. “One of the main things we do is controlled burns in the pines. We burn all the quail areas, 1,000 acres each year, to control hardwood (sprouts) and upland hardwood (forests). We do the burns each two to three years on a rotating basis.
“We also apply herbicides to control hardwood sprouts. This helps seeds in the ground to grow and provide food and cover.”
The result is classic quail-hunting habitat resembling the pine plantations of South Carolina and Georgia.
“If we manage everything right, there’s no need for quail food plots,” Kiker said. “We have some food plots, but they’re mainly for turkeys and deer. We also plant 120 acres for doves and have six impoundments of 150 acres for wood ducks and mallards.”
Buchanan Shoals is host to a few “wild” quail, so Kiker employs what are known as “surrogators” to raise quail in a natural setting where they eventually will be turned loose to fend for themselves — and can be hunted.
“We have nine areas on the property where we use surrogators,” he said.
A surrogator is a box-like device that includes a propane burner to provide warmth at night when the chicks are small balls of fluff. It also contains a 50-gallon water tank with pipes that run just above the chicks’ heads and nipples they quickly learn to peck to obtain water. Pans inside surrogators are replenished daily with food for the rapidly-growing quail.
“We put them in the surrogators when they’re only two or three days old,” Kiker said.
Quail chicks quickly learn to eat and peck for water. At one point, Kiker sprays half-grown birds with a fine mist to stimulate their skin’s oil glands. This process waterproofs the birds’ feathers and insulates them from sicknesses caused by cold or wet weather.
After five weeks, they’re ready to be set free in the wild.
Some studies have shown quail reared in surrogators don’t survive long, but Kiker said he has learned how to increase his birds’ survival time. Some eventually survive to form native coveys and rear young.
“It just takes a lot of work and being attentive to the chicks and the surrogators,” he said.
He also uses “call” birds that pull the quail back to the safety of the surrogator where they can roost at night and not be worried about attacks from predators.
“I set up (surrogators) for other people who want to have quail on their land,” Kiker said. “Wildlife management plays a big role in having pen-raised birds survive.”
Kiker figures some of his raised birds have lived for months, a long time for quail raised in pens and released into natural habitat.
One of his keys for quail survival is to place surrogators in heavy cover near good habitat.
“We also feed them the same thing (cracked corn) in the pens as we do after they’re released,” Kiker said. “We scatter corn for them in the areas where we hunt because the quail have learned to eat this particular food and won’t find it in nature.”
Kiker said with the survival rates of most quail raised in surrogators at less than 1 percent he “expects we get 85- to 90-percent survival.” And that’s over a period of several months.
That’s usually not the case, he said, for people who buy a surrogator, watch a DVD provided by the company and try to follow its directions.
“I know people who have used surrogators and gotten only a 10-percent survival rate — or less,” he said. “You can’t just watch the DVD and expect you’ll have a good crop of adult quail that’ll live more than a few days. There’s a lot of stuff they don’t tell you about on the DVD I’ve learned through experience.
“You have to check on the birds a lot. There’s a lot of baby sitting you have to do with young quail.”
The final step, after the birds have grown to adult size in five or six weeks, is to release them in a suitable area.
“You can’t take a pen-raised bird and turn it loose into a bad habitat and expect it to live more than a few days,” Kiker said. “It needs to come out (of a surrogator) and have food and cover nearby.”
Good habitat protects quail from aerial predators, such as hawks, and food should be available. Released quail obtain water from puddles, dew on grasses and leaves or after rains.
Another problem is predators and controlling them is no small expense. Kiker concentrates on reducing foxes, coyotes, raccoons and opossums, all eaters of quail eggs. Because quail nest on the ground, their eggs are on the menu of nearly every wild critter.
“We use a lot of fur-bearing predator control after deer season,” he said. “That’s when we have a licensed trapper take coyotes, foxes and bobcats. The fur-bearing predators are the ones we believe cause our quail the most problems.”
Kiker scatters cracked corn for released birds during hunting season.
“We put out feed and hunt them the next day or two because food concentrates the birds,” he said. “It’s like ringing a dinner bell, especially for hawks. So we hunt immediately after scattering feed.”
During the spring when quail nest and lay eggs, a hired trapper uses HavaHeart wire-cage traps to ensnare raccoons and opossums.
“It’s a 2 1/2-foot-long box, a live trap,” Kiker said. “We want to keep raccoons and opossums from breaking up nests. We trap them as much for turkeys as we do for quail because they’ll eat turkey eggs, too.
“We don’t use leg-hold traps because of the possibility of catching hunting dogs.”
Anyone who wants to have huntable quail numbers should consider Kiker’s approach — controlled burns and herbicides to stimulate ground vegetation, rearing quail in surrogators, keeping a close eye on growing quail chicks, allowing natural cover to grow and controlling predators.
In my opinion, a big mule deer buck is one of the hardest animals on earth to kill with a bow. They don’t have regular patterns like a whitetail; their eyes, ears and nose are superb. They usually hang with a group of other bachelor bucks, and together they employ a strategic method of bedding with somebody facing in every direction. They almost never drink in the daylight, rendering them all but impossible to ambush over water. And they don’t like to be disturbed: bump them once, and they’ll move to a different location or go nocturnal.
Muley bucks do have a couple weaknesses though: food and romance. And in some specific locations they like to bed in big, wide-open territory. That can put them in a stalk-able position. Let’s look at those three chinks in a buck’s armor and see if we can put an arrow through one of them.
Spot-and-StalkProbably the most respected method of hunting in the West, spotting and stalking can be exciting, adrenaline-ridden and effective. The above-timberline habitat of Colorado or Nevada and the broken high-plains badlands of Wyoming or the Dakota’s can be ideal for spotting and stalking big muley bucks with stick and string.
But spot-and-stalk methods can also be frustrating, physically extreme and futile. For instance, the mule deer where I live never bed in open stalk-able areas. They climb atop mesas and bed in thick pinyon/juniper forests. It’s impossible to spot them, and just as hard to stalk them.
To kill a big spot-and-stalk buck, you’ll first need to spot him, then put him to bed, and then stalk close enough for a shot. Let’s look at the process in detail.
1. Spot Climb a high vantage point and let your binoculars do the walking. You’ll be glassing up to a couple miles distant, so use premium optics. Once you spot bucks, study them through a spotting scope to determine if there’s a shooter buck amongst the group. Try to get to know the bucks while you watch them: How many are there? What are their habits? What is their pecking order? There’s always one schizophrenic buck in the gang; figure out who he is and avoid him. Most of all, figure out how the big boys move in relation to the group: Do they like to bed above, below, in the middle or to the side? The answers to these questions will dictate whether a buck is killable or not.
2. Put Your Buck to Bed. Early-season bucks usually feed for a few minutes up to several hours before heading to their morning beds. Spot them now, but don’t make a move. Watch as they work their way to a bedding area and lie down. You need to stay put a little longer though; most of the time a buck will bed—often, but not always, in the sun—for about 45 minutes to an hour, and then he’ll get up and move to a different bed in the shade. That’s when you make your move. Watch him for 15 minutes or so to be sure he’s settled in, and then go. You’ll have roughly three to five hours before he gets up to relieve himself and eat a midday snack.
3. Stalk in Close. While you’re waiting for the buck to settle in for the day, you need to strategize your approach. Figure out what the wind is doing at the buck’s location. Plan an approach route, and locate landmarks to keep you on track. Everything looks different when you’re on location than it does from a distance, so study it well, and then make your move. Ditch your shoes and pack while you close the last 100 yards, sneaking in on just your socks.
If you’ve planned and executed successfully, you’ll either be able to arrow the buck in his bed or set up downwind of the buck. Get comfortable and stay ready—ideally you should be able to see at least his antler tips. It may be several hours until he gets up. When you see him swivel his head a couple times, get ready. His antlers will swoop down and forward as he begins to get up—that’s when you draw your bow. You’ll have a few seconds to squeeze off the shot before he busts you and heads for the next county.
Hunt the RutWhen a big muley buck has romance on his mind he disregards all else, becoming very vulnerable. It’s the reason that there are almost no public land rifle hunts during the rut, and precious few archery hunts. Big bucks forget all their hard-earned survival tactics, charge around during all hours of the day and will look right at you and then go back to chasing tail. Peak rut in most locals happens in late November and early December, and a little research can turn up hunting seasons in various states. It’s a great time to hunt big muley bucks with a bow. Here’s what to do:
1. Shadow Doe Families. Mule deer bucks travel from doe family to doe family, looking for a group that’s coming into estrous. When he finds one, he’ll stay with them until they’re serviced (usually several days), then he’ll hit the road in search of another party. Your best tactic right now is to find does—lots of them—then stand by for a big boy to show up. Sneak in and set up downwind of the group and wait until he offers a shot.
2. Set Up on Travel Routes. As mentioned above, big bucks move a lot during the rut. I once watched a big rutty buck cover over a mile in less than fifteen minutes, checking three families of does along the way. Find a ridge-top saddle, pinch-point or natural funnel and set up downwind of it, much like you’d set up to hunt whitetail. If you’ve got doe groups on both sides of your position, you’re golden. Wait all day, especially if the weather is cool and/or overcast.
3. Rattle. Muleys don’t rattle up as readily as whitetails do, but if the timing is right, they’ll come in. Try getting within 150 yards downwind of a big buck and his does, and make like a couple rival bucks battling it out. You can also rattle to traveling bucks, giving the impression of two bucks fighting over hot does—you just might get lucky.
AmbushSuccessfully bushwhacking a big muley buck is all but impossible under ordinary circumstances. They’re just too nomadic. I’ve sat on a ridge top and watched the same bachelor bucks enter a 90-acre alfalfa field ten different ways in ten different days. That said, in my home turf, spot-and-stalk methods are next to impossible, and the rut happens months after the bowhunt is over, so the big bucks I’ve killed with a bow have all been ambushed. Here’s how to make it happen.
1. Bottlenecks. Though rare in good muley habitats, bottlenecks do exist. Case-in-point: one meadow I sometimes watch is bordered by a creek and has a sandstone point jutting alongside. The deer’s favorite bedding area is opposite that creek and point. The only way for them to get there is across the creek, past a huge ponderosa pine, and around the point. Sit there long enough and you’ll kill a buck. Another good place might be in a narrow ridge-top saddle between feeding and bedding areas. Just remember, mule deer go where the wind blows them, so the situation and terrain must be significant to create an effective ambush.
2. Attractants. Sometimes the only way to get within archery range of a mule deer buck is to hunt over something he wants pretty badly, such as a good acorn patch, a mineral lick or an apple tree near an old homestead. Those spots are few and hard to find, but if you locate one, you might see an old warrior compromise his safety for a nibble of his favorite treat. That’ll give you a chance to turn him into your favorite venison treat.
3. Decoy. I’ve seen it work one time; the biggest buck any of my clients ever killed came to a decoy. He fed in a large meadow each night, leaving well before dawn each day. My brother was guiding, and just couldn’t get the hunter and the buck within the same zip code. Then one day he had a flash of brilliance and set our 3-D buck target in the meadow near the client’s blind. That old savvy buck saw the decoy from clear across the meadow and came to investigate. He ended up gross scoring 196 and some change. I’m not saying a decoy will work every time, or even often. But it worked on the biggest bow-killed buck I’ve seen on the ground.
Still-HuntingStill-hunting deserves an honorable mention in this article, especially if you’re simply hunting any buck. Slipping your way very slowly through good deer habitat can provide a fun way to spend your midday, teach you a lot about your hunting area and even offer a shot opportunity. Just be sure to keep the wind in your face and move slowly as cold molasses, picking cover apart with your binocular. “One step, two looks” is a good mantra. Spot a buck, and your adventure morphs into a spot-and-stalk event.
When it comes to the art of long-range shooting, snipers reign supreme.
Operating as a sniper is one of the most challenging and rewarding roles in any field or sport involving firearms.
The primary objective of this profession is to shoot accurately at a distance while maintaining safety and control.
To that end, sniper rifles are built for this purpose — to shoot from a distance with precision and accuracy, making them an ideal weapon for anyone interested in taking down distant targets.
This article will list some of the best models on the market today and what are some of the key features that make them so great.
Below are the 10 best sniper rifles for 2024.
Note: There is STRONG evidence that the Biden administration is steadily working towards the banning of ALL long rifles. These include ALL rifles that they deem an ‘assault weapon‘, many of which are listed below.
It is STRONGLY recommended that, if you’ve been on the fence on buying a long gun, you get off that fence and buy one ASAP.
The Ruger Precision .6.5 Creedmoor 24” M-LOK Bolt Action Rifle offers premium features that will enhance your accuracy and precision down range.
This rifle is chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor making it perfect for taking down any target, including elk, boars, and deer.
It also features several features to provide you with consistent shooting down range, including a 24” cold hammer forged Chrome Moly Steel barrel, a hybrid muzzle break, and a Ruger Marksman Adjustable trigger.
Its hybrid muzzle provides enhanced recoil mitigation and reduced noise.
The Ruger Marksman Adjustable trigger provides you with a customizable trigger pull between 2.25 and 5 pounds for smooth pulls and improved control.
Another prominent feature is the Ruger Precision MSR stock with an assault rifle-style grip, an adjustable length of pull, and an adjustable cheek comb to get a customized fit for any shooter.
It also includes a 15” M-Lok handguard and a Picatinny rail up top for your favorite accessories and optics for the perfect loadout.
If you are looking for a premium sniper rifle that can easily take down your target at any range, the Ruger Precision .6.5 Creedmoor 24” M-LOK Bolt Action Rifle is an excellent choice.
It is available from Palmetto State Armory. Here’s where to buy it: www.PalmettoStateArmory.com
The Springfield Armory 2020 Waypoint .308 WIN Bolt-Action Rifle is the perfect rifle for those who want a lightweight yet rugged rifle that has guaranteed accuracy.
Springfield Armory guarantees a .75 MOA because of its precision craftsmanship.
Weighing just 6.56 pounds, it is perfect for going deep in the backcountry.
Also, the hybrid profile stock and 20” barrel are crafted from durable carbon fiber and can withstand the harshest environments.
It features a Cerakote finish on the barrel and the stainless steel receiver for even more durability and longevity.
To provide over-the-top precision, it also features Springfield’s TriggerTech adjustable trigger.
The Springfield Armory 2020 Waypoint .308 WIN Bolt-Action Rifle is your best bet if you want a lightweight rifle that can handle any environment.
It is available from Palmetto State Armory. Here’s where to buy it: www.PalmettoStateArmory.com
#3. Springfield Armory M1A Loaded National Match
Caliber: .308 Win
Action: Semi-Automatic
Barrel Length: 22”
Overall Length: 44”
Capacity: 10-Round
Weight: 9.3 lbs.
Springfield Armory’s M1A Loaded National Match has the legendary M1A platform with modern features that will give you a competitive edge over your competition.
Winning competitions is all about consistency and reliability, and the Loaded National Match has everything you need to get a tight shot group.
It features a 22” National Match air-gauged premium barrel with a 1:11 twist ratio with a six-groove rifling.
The barrel also features a classic M1A Loaded long-slotted flash suppressor.
You will have precision shooting out of the box by combining the National Match .62” front sight post and a non-hooded aperture rear sight.
It also features a 2 stage Military Trigger that is fine-tuned for a consistent 4.5 to 5-pound trigger pull.
If you are looking for a sniper rifle that is custom designed to provide you with match-grade performance at a reasonable price, the Springfield Armory M1A Loaded National Match is an excellent choice.
It is available from Palmetto State Armory. Here’s where to buy it: www.PalmettoStateArmory.com
#4. Bergara Premier HMR PRO 308 5 Round Bolt Action Rifle, Mini-Chassis With Adjustable Cheekpiece
Caliber: .308 Win
Action: Bolt
Barrel Length: 20”
Overall Length: 40”
Capacity: 5-Round
Weight: 9.3 lbs.
The Bergara Premier HMR PRO 308 5 Round Bolt Action Rifle is an excellent rifle for those who want a premium shooting experience for hunting and matches chambered in .308 Winchester.
It features a Synthetic stock with an adjustable pull length and cheekpiece to get the perfect fit for any shooter.
With a 20” free-floating barrel, you will have consistently accurate shots down range.
With an upgraded bolt and feeding system, it has a premium 2-lug system that separates the floating bolt head for smooth action.
The bolt has a one-piece design and comes with a full nitride finish for enhanced durability.
The rifle also features a premium TriggerTech trigger that offers a consistently smooth pull.
It also comes with a 5-round capacity AICS-style magazine.
If you are looking for a high-performance rifle designed for hunting and matches, the Bergara Premier HMR PRO 308 5-Round Bolt Action Rifle is an excellent choice.
It is available from Palmetto State Armory. Here’s where to buy it: www.PalmettoStateArmory.com
#5. Ruger Predator 6.5 Creedmoor Moss Green 22” Rifle
Caliber: 6.5 Creedmoor
Action: Bolt
Barrel Length: 22”
Overall Length: 42”
Capacity: 3-Round
Weight: 6.6 lbs.
Ruger Predator 6.5 Creedmoor Moss Green 22” Rifle is the perfect rifle for those wanting premium features without a premium price tag.
It features a one-piece three-lug full-diameter bolt with dual cocking arms for smooth cycling.
The rifle also features a soft rubber butt pad, providing better control and recoil mitigation.
For accurate shots down range, it features a trigger with an adjustable pull between 3 and 5 pounds and a 22” threaded cold hammer forged steel barrel.
The Ruger Predator’s synthetic stock and alloy steel hardware can withstand the harshest environments.
Also, it only weighs 6.6 lbs making it perfect for long trips in the backcountry.
The Ruger Predator 6.5 Creedmoor Moss Green 22” Rifle is your best choice for a budget-friendly sniper rifle that can deliver consistent performance.
It is available from Palmetto State Armory. Here’s where to buy it: www.PalmettoStateArmory.com
#6. Sauer 100 Silver XT 6.5 Crd Bolt Action Rifle
Caliber: 6.5 Creedmoor
Action: Bolt
Barrel Length: 22”
Overall Length: 42”
Capacity: 5-Round
Weight: 6.68 lbs.
The Sauer 100 Silver XT 6.5 Crd Bolt Action Rifle is an excellent entry-level rifle that is perfect for taking your targets down at a distance.
It is chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor and has several features to provide an excellent shooting experience.
With a synthetic fixed Ergo Max stock, it will provide enhanced comfort and control.
It also features a 22” cold hammer forged steel barrel with a Cerakote finish for improved longevity and durability.
Other features include a three-position safety, an adjustable single-stage trigger, and steel hardware.
The Sauer 100 Silver XT 6.5 Crd Bolt Action Rifle is a top choice if you are looking for a solid-performing entry-level bolt action sniper rifle.
It is available from Palmetto State Armory. Here’s where to buy it: www.PalmettoStateArmory.com
#7. Savage Arms Axis II Precision 6.5 Crd Bolt Action Rifle, Matte OD Green/Black
Caliber: 6.5 Creedmoor
Action: Bolt
Barrel Length: 22”
Overall Length: 42.5” – 43.5”
Capacity: 8-Round
Weight: 9.88 lbs.
Savage Arms partnered with Modular Driven Technologies to introduce the Savage Arms Axis II Precision 6.5 Crd Bolt Action Rifle.
It includes an exclusive MDT chassis and many other features to provide precision shooting without destroying your bank account.
It features an aluminum stock with a beautiful matte olive drab green/black finish.
The stock features an adjustable comb height and length of pull spacers to get an excellent fit for enhanced control and comfort.
It also comes with a 22” carbon steel barrel that is button rifled for improved durability and accuracy.
An excellent feature is the M-Lok forend that allows you to customize your loadout.
With a 2.5 to 6 lb adjustable AccuTrigger, you will have smooth and consistent trigger pulls that ensure you will take down your target.
With its many features at an excellent price point, the Savage Arms Axis II Precision 6.5 Crd Bolt Action Rifle is a top pick.
It is available from Palmetto State Armory. Here’s where to buy it: www.PalmettoStateArmory.com
#8. Howa M1500 Australian Precision Chassis 6.5 Crd Bolt Action Rifle
Caliber: 6.5 Creedmoor
Action: Bolt
Barrel Length: 24”
Overall Length: 44.5” – 47.5”
Capacity: 10-Round
Weight: 10.8 lbs.
The Howa M1500 Australian Precision Chassis 6.5 Crd Bolt Action Rifle specializes in modularity and accuracy with its fine-tuned components.
It comes with a LUTH-AR MBA-4 fully adjustable stock with a variable length of pull of 12” to 15” for a precise fit.
With a 24” threaded precision barrel, ten-round capacity, and an M-Lok free float handguard, you can have the perfect loadout to keep a target engaged no matter the distance.
Howa backs its product with a lifetime warranty and a sub-MOA guarantee.
If you want guaranteed performance with tons of customization, the Howa M1500 Australian Precision Chassis 6.5 Crd Bolt Action Rifle is a perfect fit for you.
It is available from Palmetto State Armory. Here’s where to buy it: www.PalmettoStateArmory.com
#9. Daniel Defense Delta 5 Pro 6.5 Creedmoor Rifle 24”
Caliber: 6.5 Creedmoor
Action: Bolt
Barrel Length: 24”
Overall Length: 40.25”
Capacity: 10-Round
Weight: 11.4 lbs.
The Daniel Defense Delta 5 Pro 6.5 Creedmoor Rifle 24” has custom enhancements that you will not find in your average long gun.
It features an interchangeable 24” proprietary steel blend barrier with a Cerakote finish and an Area 419 Hellfire Muzzle Brake.
The Area 419 Hellfire Muzzle Brake provides reduced recoil and muzzle rise, allowing you to reengage your target quickly.
It also comes with an adjustable Timney Elite Hunter single-stage trigger, an M-Lok handguard, an AR-15 grip attachment, and an ergonomic thumb rest.
The synthetic stock also has an adjustable length of pull, butt pad height, and cheek riser for a fantastic fit.
Pair all that with an included ten-round PMAG, and you get an excellent package.
A downside to the Delta 5 Pro is its price, but every inch of it is well worth the price tag.
If you want a feature-rich sniper rifle perfect for newcomers or professionals, the Daniel Defense Delta 5 Pro 6.5 Creedmoor Rifle 24” is an excellent choice.
It is available from Palmetto State Armory. Here’s where to buy it: www.PalmettoStateArmory.com
#10. Springfield Armory M1A SOCOM-16 .308
Caliber: .308 Win
Action: Semi-Automatic
Barrel Length: 16.25”
Overall Length: 37.25”
Capacity: 10-Round
Weight: 8.8 lbs
The Springfield Armory M1A SOCOM-16 .308 brings everything shooters love about the standard M1A and makes it compact.
This version has a shorter 16.25” barrel and gas system with an overall length of 37.25”, making it perfect for maneuvering in tight spaces.
Its black composite stock is impervious to harsh weather and is comfortable to fit in the pocket of your shoulder.
The iron sights on the M1A SOCOM-16 are top-notch, with an XS Tritium front sight and a classic M1A rear sight.
One of the best things about this rifle is that it is semi-automatic with a ten-round capacity that enables you to continually engage your target without interruptions.
A unique feature of the M1A SOCOM-16 is that it comes with a forward scout-style Picatinny rail to accommodate close-quarters optics.
It also features a two-stage match-grade tuned trigger for crisp trigger pulls.
If you are looking for a premium rifle that will deliver at short or long distances with a semi-automatic action, the Springfield Armory M1A SOCOM-16 .308 is a clear winner.
It is available from Palmetto State Armory. Here’s where to buy it: www.PalmettoStateArmory.com
Semi-Automatic Vs. Bolt Action
Based on the shooter’s preference, they may desire a bolt action or semi-automatic rifle, but what is the difference?
Fire Rate
The most significant difference is that semi-automatic rifles can fire follow-on shots much faster.
In the long run, you can engage a target more effectively with a Semi-automatic sniper rifle.
Recoil
Bolt action rifles will tend to provide more accurate follow-on shots because of the way gas is expelled differently between the two.
Semi-Automatic rifles use some of the gas for expelled rounds to charge the weapon for another shot.
While doing this, the gas is pushed back towards the rear, and the bolt slams into the buffer spring.
Bolt action rifles only have one stage of recoil, where the recoil is pushed directly into the shooter’s shoulder pocket.
Moving Parts
While a high-quality semi-automatic rifle will have consistent performance, it is still more likely to malfunction due to having more moving parts.
.308 Winchester Vs. 6.5 Creedmoor
.308 Winchester and 6.5 Creedmoor are two of the most common rounds fired by snipers and for a good reason.
They offer plenty of power to take down your target at any range.
What Is The Difference?
Round Variety
The .308 has been around for decades with plenty of different variations in weight and complexity from lightweight 125-grain to heavier 180-grain rounds.
With the 6.5 Creedmoor, the heavier rounds are typically 1437-grain.
The .308 Winchester will generally be easier to get and is cheaper.
Recoil
The 6.5 Creedmoor has slightly less recoil than the .308 Winchester.
Ballistics
Both .308 Winchester and 6.5 Creedmoor do an excellent job at providing the ballistics you need to take down your target.
However, the 6.5 Creedmoor has better ballistics, allowing the round to have a flatter trajectory for long distances.
Final Verdict
For long-range precision shooting, the 6.5 Creedmoor is the way to go.
However, if you are the average hunter who will engage their target at less than 300 yards, the .308 Winchester is a better choice.
References
Bolt Action or Semi-Automatic for Long-Range Competition?
6.5 Creedmoor vs. .308 Winchester
See Also
12 Best Long Range Rifles
9 Best AR-10 Rifles
12 Best 308 Rifles
10 Best .22 Caliber Rifles
9 Best Rifles For Home Defense
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