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Tru-oil vs Linseed Oil: The Top 5 Things You All Wanted To Know

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What’s one of the most popular oil finishes out there right now? Tru-oil.

It’s popularly used as a way to add a high gloss shine on everything from guitars to furniture. And this quick-drying finish is super easy to apply with even a rag, all thanks to its thinner consistency.

After it is dry, the finish Tru-oil leaves behind is a fantastic almost glass-like gloss on wood. And the reason it is able to do all of this, in no small part, boils down to its Linseed oil ingredient.

Made from a blend of Linseed oil (and sometimes Tung oil), Varnish, and Mineral Paint Thinners, Tru-oil brings with it many of the benefits of a Linseed oil finish… but without the waiting around time.

But, does Tru-oil really beat out pure (or boiled) Linseed oil as a wood finish?

Tru-oil dries in less than half the time of Linseed oil. And it doesn’t yellow with age, the way Linseed oil does either.

However, Linseed oil soaks further into wood than Tru-oil, better helping to protect it from decay (caused by moisture). Plus, due to its thicker consistency, Linseed oil needs fewer application coats than Tru-oil.

But, the key difference between the two lies more in the condition of the wood you will be coating them onto.

Linseed is better on bare wood. It works best by penetrating wood pores, leaving very little film resin on the surface (once you’ve wiped away the excess).

But what if those wood pores are already filled with a previous oil finish?

In which case, Tru-oil is a better choice when it comes to refinishing wood. Once you’ve stripped off the original finish, Tru-oil will protect that wood by mostly building up film on the surface. It will still penetrate the timber, just simply not as deep as a Linseed oil finish would.

Still puzzled as to which oil finish to use on your woodwork piece? Well, keep reading to get the answers to the top 5 questions we always get about these two popular oil finishes…

Your Top 5 Tru-oil Questions

1). Is Tru-oil Pretty Much The Same As Linseed Oil?

Tru-oil is very different from Pure Linseed Oil. Mainly due to the fact that Linseed oil is a natural finish, and Tru-oil is not.

Made from flaxseeds, pure Linseed oil has been used as a key ingredient in making moisture resistant stains, paints and finishes.

Boiled linseed oil differs from Tru-oil too. That is because boiled linseed oil, (also referred to as BLO), is created when pure linseed oil is put through a superheated chemical treatment. This treatment process drastically reduces the drying time of pure linseed oil.

2). What Is Tru-oil Made Out Of?

Tru-oil is a blend of Linseed/Tung oil, varnish and paint thinner.

In other words, Linseed oil is one of many ingredients that can be found in Tru-oil. But Linseed oil and Tru-oil are not one and the same.

Related Post: The Top 3 Tru-oil Alternatives That’ll Give Your Guitar A Fine Finish

3). Is Tru-oil Flammable (Just Like Linseed Oil)?

One of the first things you should know about Linseed oil is that it doesn’t take much to set off this substance.

In fact, you don’t even need a spark for this oil-based finish to spontaneously go up in flame.

This high combustibility factor comes about due to Linseed oil reacting with oxygen molecules in the air. Which is why you always need to be careful when disposing of Linseed oil soaked rags (even if they’re dry).

Now, Tru-oil is just as flammable as Linseed oil – for much the same reason. So you should apply the same safety precautions when disposing of rags that have been soaked in Tru-oil. Safety precautions such as;

  1. Don’t bunch up multiple rags together.
  2. Lay them out separately so that they can dry slowly.
  3. And don’t reuse or store them. Simply wait for them to become bone-dry, and then throw them out.

4). Is Tru-oil Weather Resistant?

It’s moisture-resistant, not weather resistant.

In other words, it can shrug off a bit of humidity – and help prevent wood rot and decay.

But it won’t protect wood from a deluge of rain water – or high humidity environments.

Related Post: What You Need To Know About Danish Oil vs Tru Oil

5). And Does Tru-oil Dry Into A Hard Film?

A hard film? No. But does Tru-oil cure into a stiff, rigid film? Yes, it does.

That’s because Tru-oil isn’t very scratch resistant or durable. So if you are looking for something that can handle a lot of dings and dents, this is not the wood finish for you.

Tru-oil is just too thin a substance to really leave behind a thick hard resin.

If you want a finish that’ll give your guitar more protection, then you need to check out polyurethane. This fast drying sealer is scratch-resistant, and waterproof. Learn more by clicking over to our article: When Should You Use Tru-oil Vs Wipe-On Poly? [3 Key Comparisons]

Your Top 5 Linseed Oil Questions

1). What Is Linseed Oil Best Used For?

It’s used in everything from paints, to stains, to finishes. But, at its core, it is best used as a way to help prevent wood decay and rot from setting into wood.

By soaking into and throughout wood, it manages to coat those wood fibers in a lubricant that cures into a resin that keeps moisture out.

2). So, Is Linseed Oil A Good Wood Finish?

It is a great finish, provided that you use it for what it is intended for… and that is to add waterproofing to lumber.

It is not, however, completely waterproof. Which means it will more often than not require at least some kind of top coat sealant to go over it.

Related Post: Can You Put Epoxy Over Linseed Oil (For A Longer Lasting Finish)?

3). How Long Does Linseed Oil Last On Wood?

It takes up to 3 days for Linseed oil to dry into a solid film. And it can take up to 10 weeks for it to cure into a hard resin.

Related Post: How To Make Linseed Oil Dry Faster (What You Need To Know)

And if you then apply a tough and durable sealer, (such as an oil-based polyurethane), over that Linseed oil finish, then it can last 5-10 years.

4). When Should I Use Linseed Oil On Wood?

This wood finish should only be used on bare wood that hasn’t been previously covered in any other penetrating stain or finish.

Linseed oil needs to soak to work. And anything that stops it from doing just that will prevent this finish from doing its job effectively.

5). Is Flaxseed Seriously The Same Thing As Linseed?

Raw Linseed oil is an oily substance that gets crushed out of Flaxseed.

The oil this plant produces is all natural, food safe, edible, and can even be used as a food supplement. And this raw and uncut version of Linseed oil takes forever to dry.

Okay, not quite forever, but it will certainly feel like it.

Important Note: Boiled Linseed oil is not at all fit to be consumed at all in any way shape or form. Although once it has completely and thoroughly cured, it does become food-safe enough to use as a finish on kitchen utensils.

References

Drying and oxidative degradation of linseed oil – ScienceDirect

Everything You Need to Know About Airsoft Guns

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Whether you are looking to practice target shooting or you want to get into airsoft games, learning more about airsoft guns is an absolute necessity. This guide is here to help you learn more about what airsoft guns are, how they work and what type of model might be right for your needs and preferences.

What is an Airsoft Gun?

Airsoft guns do not shoot traditional bullets; instead, they shoot 6-millimeter pellets, otherwise known simply as “BBs”. Not only do airsoft guns not shoot traditional bullets, but the pellets leave the chamber at a much slower speed than bullets from a standard gun. This means that when airsoft guns are used safely and correctly, getting hit by an airsoft gun pellet should not cause much pain or result in any heavy-bleeding injuries. However, that being said, an airsoft gun is also not a toy. When operating an airsoft gun, you will still need to be mindful of your environment and take the recommended safety precautions. It is also recommended when playing games with airsoft guns that everyone wears the standard protective gear.

What are Airsoft Guns Used For?

Some airsoft guns have been designed to be almost exact replicas of real guns, whereas some operate more like paintball guns. In the same way as the designs of an airsoft gun can differ, so can the intended uses. Some of the most common uses of airsoft guns include:

  • Airsoft gun games this is seen as an alternative to paintball and is played throughout the US, Europe, and Asia.
  • Some police forces, like the UK police, also use airsoft guns, especially when dealing with large crowds.
  • Some people choose to use airsoft guns to deter smaller animals.
  • Airsoft guns are also popular with people who are looking for a safe way to practice target shooting.

The Different Types of Airsoft Guns

Some of the most common types of airsoft guns include:

Spring-Powered

Spring-powered is not the strongest form of airsoft gun, but they do provide a superior level of shooter control and accuracy. This type of airsoft gun is viewed as ideal for beginners, there are many affordable options, and they come in a number of different sizes.

Electric Guns

Airsoft electric guns, otherwise known simply as AEGs, are battery-powered; the pellet from these guns is propelled using an electric motor and a gearbox. This type of airsoft gun is extremely modifiable and is one of the most popular forms of airsoft gun, alongside the rifle.

Sniper Rifle

The sniper rifle is the perfect choice of airsoft gun for anyone who is looking to shoot at a long distance. The majority of airsoft sniper rifles work with a spring-power mechanism which allows you to use a significant amount of power in one shot. While the majority of sniper rifles are spring-powered, it is possible to purchase an electric or gas-powered sniper, depending upon your specific needs and preferences.

Shotgun

If you are looking for force rather than distance, then the shotgun might be the perfect choice of airsoft gun for your needs. Many airsoft shotguns have a very similar feel to their more serious counterparts and offer a great spray fire experience. However, they do require close proximity and can be difficult for younger users to pump.

Leupold VX-R Review (2024): Worth the Money?

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The Leupold VX-R packs some pretty impressive features into a relatively affordable package.

But what do those features mean for you? And is the Leupold VX-R worthy of a place atop your rifle?

In this Leupold VX-R review, I’ll answer that question and more.

Let’s get started!

Here’s My Leupold VX-R Review

The Leupold VX-R is a high-end scope with a mid-level price tag.

Leupold VX-R Overview

It’s durable, accurate, and lightweight. Plus, the Illuminated Ballistic Firedot reticle is excellent for rapid target acquisition.

In fact:

It’s one of my favorite hog gun scopes.

I expected quality from a Leupold scope, and I wasn’t disappointed. Here’s why…

Glass Clarity & Reticle

The glass is clear and produces a bright image.

Leupold VX-R Lens

The best part?

I can easily hunt in low light conditions (dawn or dusk). Here’s why:

Leupold applied their Index Matched Lens and Twilight Max management system. Combined, it allows for crazy bright views in dark conditions.

The VX-R uses one of my favorite red dot reticles:

The Ballistic Illuminated Firedot.

Leupold VX-R Firedot

The dot is bright and draws the eye naturally to center without obscuring the target. This works especially well when I’m trying to take down running game.

The lines on the bottom post allow me to push my shots out beyond 200 yards and still maintain accuracy.

There are 8 brightness settings, and I was able to find the perfect settings for daylight and night shooting pretty quickly.

However, there was one thing I didn’t like about the VX-R:

The brightness button.

Leupold VX-R Button

Instead of a dial, the VX-R uses a button to cycle between the light levels. And sometimes, it’ll get stuck. If this happens to you, simply unscrew the battery cap and put it back on, and the button should work fine again.

It’s not a deal-breaker, but I do wish they had a dial instead.

Speaking of dial, the VX-R uses a battery to power the illumination. It’s nice, crisp and equipped with an auto on/off feature.

This is literally a battery saver since I sometimes forget to turn off the illumination. Due to this, I didn’t need to change my battery for months now.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

The eye relief sits at a comfortable 3.7-4.2 inches.

Leupold VX-R Eye Relief

I have mine right at 4 inches on my AR and it’s extremely easy and comfortable to line up with.

With that much eye relief, I could easily mount the VX-R on a higher recoiling rifle and not worry about scope bite.

Related: Best .300 Blackout Scopes and Optics

Eye box is generous and easy to settle into. I’ve found that it maintains field of view even when I zoom it all the way in.

Durability

The VX-R packs in all of the durability you’d expect from a Leupold scope.

The tube is machined from aircraft grade aluminum. This means that the tube is not only tough, but it’s also light, weighing in at 15.3 ounces.

Leupold VX-R Aluminum Tube

The VX-R is waterproof up to a depth of thirty three feet. So if you accidentally drop your scope in water, it should still be fully functional.

It’s also fully fogproof and scratchproof – like the Leupold Rifleman 4-12×40 – so you can use it in all environments and conditions.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The turrets are easy to use and turn with a solid, stiff click.

Leupold VX-R Turret Turn

I was able to zero the scope to 200 yards very quickly and have had no issues with any drifting, even after months of shooting.

The turrets proved to be reliable.

Leupold VX-R Knobs

Speaking of which, Leupold offers CDS (Custom Dial System) elevation turrets that you can order specific for your caliber and bullet load. I didn’t find this necessary, but it’s a great option to have.

The CDS is a custom elevation dial tuned to your exact load, velocity, and shooting conditions. This means all you have to do is range your target, set the dial, and fire away.

Parallax & Magnification

The VX-R gives you 3-9x variable magnification which is great for close to mid-range shooting.

Leupold VX-R Magnification

The best part?

The reticle is set in the second focal plane. Which means, when magnification is changed, the reticle’s size remains the same.

I’ve had zero problems with the reticle obscuring the target, even when I dial the magnification all the way up.

In fact, the image remains clear, even at 9x. No fuzziness or distortion — just a crisp view.

In case you’re wondering about parallax, there is none…

Because the VX-R comes from the factory with parallax eliminated. So all you have to do is zero it in and go shoot.

Mounting & Rings

If you don’t have a mount, I recommend using the Mark AR 30mm mount. It fits like a glove and holds zero well.

Also, the VX-R ships with a scope cover to help keep your scope clean and protected when not in use.

Leupold VX-R Lens Cover

However, I’d recommend some Butler Creek flip-up lens caps (size 02A)…

…and a 40mm Leupold Sunshade if you shoot in sunny conditions.

Is The Leupold VX-R For You?

Overall, the Leupold VX-R is a monster of a mid-range scope, especially when used with an AR or other tactical rifle, like the M1A.

Here’s why. It’s got:

  • Clear glass
  • 3-9x magnification
  • Second focal plane
  • Auto-shutoff battery saver
  • Reliable, hand adjustable turrets
  • Ballistic Illuminated Firedot reticle
  • Extremely durable, waterproof, and fogproof

The VX-R brings all the quality and reliability that I would expect from a Leupold but at a reasonable price. If you want to start stepping up your glass game, then the Leupold VX-R is for you.

Plus, the Leupold Lifetime Warranty means that even if you somehow manage to damage the VX-R, you’re covered.

So if you’re ready to take the next step in quality riflescopes, give the Leupold VX-R a try.

I doubt you’ll regret it.

FAQ

If you own a VX-R riflescope or recently bought one, how do you like it so far? Let me know in the comments below. Also, I’ve written an in-depth guide on the best .22-250 scopes on the market.

11 Brilliant Hemingway Quotes: Hunting & Fishing

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Perhaps no one has been a more respected ambassador for hunting and fishing than Ernest Hemingway. Readers who may never hold a rod or rifle are transported to the African plains or the Gulf Stream waters whenever they read Hemingway’s lyrical stories, and though they may not respect what he is promoting, they can’t help but be enthralled by the tales woven by one of the world’s greatest writers. Here are 11 Ernest Hemingway quotes that prove that claim.

1. “You did not kill the fish only to keep alive and to sell for food, he thought. You killed for pride and because you are a fisherman. You loved him when he was alive and you loved him after. If you love him, it is not a sin to kill him. Or is it more?”

— The Old Man and the Sea

2. “I did not mind killing anything, any animal, if I killed it cleanly, they all had to die and my interference with the nightly and the seasonal killing that went on all the time was very minute and I had no guilty feeling at all. We ate the meat and kept the hides and horns.”

— Green Hills of Africa

3. “Best of all he loved the fall. The leaves yellow on the cottonwoods floating on the trout streams and above the hills. The high blue windless sky…Now he will be part of them forever.”

— Memorial for a friend killed in a hunting accident

4. “Now it is pleasant to hunt something that you want very much over a long period of time, being outwitted, out-maneuvered and failing at the end of each day, but having the hunt and knowing every time you are out that, sooner or later, your luck will change and that you will get the chance that you are seeking. But it is not pleasant to have a time limit by which you must get your kudu or perhaps never get it, nor even see one. It is not the way hunting should be.”

— Green Hills of Africa

5. “When you have shot one bird flying you have shot all birds flying. They are all different and they fly in different ways but the sensation is the same and the last one is as good as the first.”

— Winner Take Nothing

6. “Perhaps I should not have been a fisherman, he thought. But that was the thing that I was born for.”

— The Old Man and the Sea

7. “Somebody just back of you while you are fishing is as bad as someone looking over your shoulder while you write a letter to your girl.”

8. “I came by there five years ago and where I shot that pheasant there was a hotdog place and filling station and the north prairie, where we hunted snipe in the spring and skated on the sloughs when they froze in the winter, was all a subdivision of mean houses, and in the town, the house where I was born was gone and they had cut down the oak trees and built an apartment house close out against the street. So I was glad I went away from there as soon as I did. Because when you like to shoot and fish you have to move often and always farther out and it doesn’t make any difference what they do when you are gone.”

— “Remembering Shooting-Flying”

9. “The way to hunt is for as long as you live against, as long as there is such and such an animal; just as the way to paint is as long as there is you and colors and canvas, and to write as long as you can live and there is pencil and paper or ink or any machine to do it with, or anything you care to write about, and you feel a fool, and you are a fool, to do it any other way.”

— Green Hills of Africa

10. “Then he began to pity the great fish that he had hooked. He is wonderful and strange and who knows how old he is, he thought. Never have I had such a strong fish nor one who acted so strangely. Perhaps he is too wise to jump. He could ruin me by jumping or by a wild rush. But perhaps he has been hooked many times before and he knows that this is how he should make his fight. He cannot know it is only one man against him, nor that it is an old man. But what a great fish he is and what will he bring in the market if the flesh is good. He took the bait like a male and he pulls like a male and his fight has no panic in it. I wonder if he has plans or if he is just as desperate as I am?”

— The Old Man and the Sea

11. “You are killing me, fish, the old man thought. But you have a right to. Never have I seen a greater, or more beautiful, or a calmer or more noble thing than you, brother.”

— The Old Man and the Sea

Note: Have other Ernest Hemingway quotes about hunting or fishing? Share them in the comments!

Shark vs. Crocodile: Who Wins in a Fight?

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Here’s whether a shark or a crocodile wins in a fight:

A great white shark may take more than one hit and a lot of biting to beat a crocodile, but eventually, the great white shark will win.

Sharks species smaller than a great white easily lose to crocodiles.

The shark is always the prey when crocodiles and small sharks fight in shallow waters.

If you want to learn all about who wins in a fight between a shark and a crocodile, then you’re in the right place.

Keep reading!

Who Wins in a Fight Between a Shark and a Crocodile?

The only place where the great white shark and the saltwater crocodile can meet is the open water.

This is the natural habitat of the great white shark and gives them a maneuvering advantage over the slower saltwater Croc.

It would take multiple hits and a lot of biting to beat the crocodile, but eventually, the shark would probably win.

If it’s any other species of sharks smaller than the great white, the crocodile would easily take the win home.

Fights between crocodiles and small sharks sometimes happen in shallow waters, and in this case, the shark is always the prey.

It’s a bit different with great whites since they are rare and can only be found in deep waters.

Great white shark with the sun rays.

Sharks can swim with 25 mph (40 km/h) speed in long bursts, while crocodiles can get to 18 mph (29 km/h) but get easily tired.

That’s where the main advantage for the great white shark over the saltwater crocodile lies.

Who Has a Stronger Bite: A Shark or a Crocodile?

The great white shark does have a huge jaw, but as a result of its diet, it doesn’t have the strongest bite amongst all shark species.

It’s a lot easier to bite through a seal (great white prey) than through the shells of a turtle (tiger shark prey).

The world’s most ferocious jaws, belonging to the saltwater crocodile, can snap with a force of 4000 lbs (2 tons).

The White Shark has a bite force of only 2200 lbs (1.1 tons).

It’s not a joke when this shark bites you but compared to the crocodile, they seem toothless.

The jaw size of the shark is wide enough to bite any part of a crocodile, but it lacks the force and proper teeth to do serious damage.

Great white shark with open mouth.

Although a crocodile can bite-crush almost anything, his mouth is simply not big enough for a great white shark.

Different Types of Teeth

Since they feed on different types of animals, it’s no surprise that sharks and crocodiles have different teeth shapes.

Crocs hunt prey that is larger and with stronger skin and bones, so they need teeth rigid enough to devour their victims.

White sharks don’t need to crunch the bones of the things they hunt and go for biting rather than squeezing with huge pressure.

A shark’s teeth look like a saw, and they are a few rows of spare ones behind each front tooth.

It’s not rare for sharks to lose and replace teeth during a struggle.

Who Will Participate in a Shark vs. Crocodile Fight?

The family Crocodylidae or True Crocodiles numbers 14 animal species.

As part of the order Crocodilia, the family has caimans, alligators, and caimans as their closest cousins.

A group of baby crocodiles.

The largest of them all is the one who is going to be picked for the Shark vs. Crocodile fight.

The saltwater crocodile is the largest living reptile, and this ancient being is also the one causing most human deaths compared to others of its family.

There are more than 1000 shark and ray species, and new ones are discovered each year.

If we want to pick the contender for this epic fight we will probably go with the biggest shark of them all, correct?

Well, not quite!

The whale shark is the biggest fish in the world but doesn’t participate in fights.

Its megamouth serves as a filter feeder to swallow anything coming its way (possibly a crocodile even).

The real shark fighter and the one with the most recorded attacks on humans is the great white shark.

It’s the 6th largest shark species, and the only one coming near its ferocity, strength, and size is the tiger shark (4th largest).

Characteristics of the Great White Shark

Legendary for being one of the fiercest predators, the great white shark caused admiration and fear in people for many years.

Great white shark "smiling".

This cartilaginous fish is probably causing more harm in people’s imagination than in real life.

While humans fear the great white shark expressly and consider it a man-eating predator, this powerful and efficient hunter never had a preference for people.

Attacks happen when the shark is confused or just wants to taste the moving object.

When a great white shark wants to attack, the opening of its mouth can be 3 to 4 ft (1-1.2 m) wide.

The top of the great white shark is darker in blue of gray variations, while the lower area of the body is white.

Such discoloration is a hunting advantage because prey doesn’t notice the shark’s figure, and to them, it looks like the bottom of the ocean.

White Shark Body Strength

A great white shark has a fusiform and robust body. That means it’s shaped like a spindle and big and strong at the same time.

Adult sharks can be 13-22 ft (4-6.7 m) long with an average length of 19 ft (5.8 m).

Their weight can be somewhere between 6600 and 7500 lbs (3000-3400 kg).

Great white shark in the deep blue waters.

The adult male great white sharks are approximately 6.5 ft (2 m) smaller than their representative females.

Strong pectoral fins and a triangle-shaped back fin are placed behind its narrow and pointed snout.

There is a smaller fin near the tail which ends with long lower and upper lobes.

Whiteys have delicate skin that cannot withstand huge penetrating forces, which puts them in an inferior position compared to crocodiles.

Characteristics of the saltwater crocodile

The saltwater crocodile is believed to be the animal that is most likely to eat a human being of all other animals in the world.

At the back of their mouths, saltwater crocodiles have valves that seal off the cavity from the throat.

This way, they can open their mouth while under the water.

However, it’s not possible to eat the prey beneath the water surface because they will need to swallow and allow their throats to open and fill with liquid.

When a crocodile catches something underwater, it has to take it to land and eat it or raise itself with its head above the water and swallow.

Adult individuals can be 16-23 ft (4.8-7 meters) in length and weigh between 880-1540 lbs (400-700 kg).

Crocodiles in a crocodile farm.

The male crocodiles are much larger than the females.

Their enormous heads and broad, heavy bodies are grey to brown so that they can blend in their muddy habitats.

Having short and strong limbs, their biggest attributes are their long and strong jaws.

A croc’s skin appears as some sort of prehistoric armor. It’s not easy to penetrate through it at all.

Where Can You Find Sharks?

You can find sharks in a lot of places in the world. They inhabit tropical waters nears the coasts and even temperate and cold areas.

In the Americas, there are sharks from Alaska to Mexico in the Pacific Ocean and from Newfoundland to Mexico in the Atlantic Ocean.

Outside of America, sharks dwell in the waters of Japan, the Mediterranean Sea, Oceania, and South Africa.

White Shark Behavior

Generally, the great white shark swims and hunts solitarily. From time to time, they can reunite with others. The groups can consist of a couple of sharks or even groups of 5-6.

Females mostly take the lead in the groups because of the existing hierarchical dominance.

Large 5-meter female great white shark.

Larger sharks dominate over the smaller ones, and when the group accepts newcomers, the fresh ones are subdued by the old leadership for some time.

The animal is equally active day and night. In an attempt to get familiar with the surroundings or look for prey, great sharks can sometimes jump out of the water.

While not being aggressive towards others of their species, an occasional warning bite might happen.

Where Can You Find Crocodiles?

Saltwater crocs can be commonly found in and around river mouths, mangrove swamps, and coastal marshes.

They inhabit the tropical regions of Australia, Africa, South America, North America, and Africa.

When crocodiles feel capable of swimming a lot, they can travel upstream.

Seasonal floods make it possible for crocodiles to get to places that are otherwise hard to reach.

It’s not unusual for them to live in the open ocean for short periods as they are quite capable of that.

Cuban crocodile swimming along the sea grass.

Exploring is an exciting activity that can make them cross large water expanses.

Saltwater Crocodile Behavior

The saltwater crocodile is thought of as one of the most sophisticated and intelligent reptiles on the planet.

They live in groups and communicate with each other by crocodile-barking, hissing, chirping, and growling.

Saltwater crocodiles invest a great deal of their time thermoregulating to maintain their body temperatures.

For example, when it’s too hot, they go inside the water, stick their eyes and nostrils out and just wait until they are cool.

Do Crocodiles and Sharks Meet in Nature?

Crocodiles and sharks can occasionally meet in the water and have close encounters; most of the time, the situation would end with the shark fleeing the scene or getting eaten.

It’s mostly smaller shark species since large ones don’t dwell in shallow water.

Brutus the Giant Crocodile

Brutus is an 80-year-old crocodile living in Adelaide River in Northern Australia.

He some kind of celebrity because his front right leg is missing, and there are even boat tours that take you to him.

Photographers have caught him a few times with a bull shark in his mouth freshly caught from the river.

But you know what’s even more interesting?

Close-up shot of a shark

It is sharks that took his front leg in the first place.

Comparison of Great White Shark and Saltwater Crocodile Attributes

The great white sharkSaltwater crocodile

The Best Wading Jacket for You

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The rain was coming down by the bucket and I huddled under a pine tree, praying that I wouldn’t get too wet. My proprietary waterproof system had utterly failed, and I wasn’t too surprised. An old ski parka layered on top of a fleece vest wasn’t exactly the bastion of water-repellence technology I hoped it would be. As a result of being wet and cold, I was missing out on the fishing—for golden trout, of all things! If you’ve ever fished for golden trout before, you know getting to them is half the battle.

It was on this trip that I learned the real value of a solid wading jacket, and I resolved to buy a nice one after getting out of that downpour. The problem I ran into, though, was how to pick the right one for me. I wasn’t sure where to start, and the reviews of wading jackets at the time didn’t exactly clear things up for me.

That’s what I aim to do with this piece. We’ll dive into some of the features you should look for in a wading jacket, as well as some factors to consider that will likely influence your decision. As always, we’ll end with a list of wading jackets that I’ve either personally used myself or had recommended to me by anglers I know and trust.

Consider the conditions

The first thing to consider when looking for the best wading jacket for you is the conditions it’ll most likely be used in. Since I live and fish mostly in the Rocky Mountains, I don’t need a bombproof rain jacket like my buddies in southeast Alaska use. They’re in the rain more often than not. I rarely face conditions that tough.

You can quickly spend a lot of cash on wading jackets if you opt for the ultra-premium steelheader-deluxe models. While those are nice to have, they’re far from necessary for the fishing I do. There’s a fine line between being prepared and preparing for a disaster that won’t ever happen.

Keep it warm

I’m a firm believer in layering for any outdoor activity, and fishing in the rain is no exception. I prefer a rain shell over an insulating layer, as that’s what keeps me most comfortable on the water. I’m sure plenty of anglers agree with that.

But do you? That’s the key here. If you want a do-it-all wading jacket that both keeps you dry and insulates, go for it. Don’t let one person’s opinion talk you out of picking a piece of gear you know you’ll enjoy.

Packability

Finally, my favorite wading jackets are packable. They’ll squeeze down and fit in a backpack, under the seat in a drift boat, or anywhere else where they’re out of the way. A good packable wading jacket should be light, too, so that carrying it around all day if the forecast calls for rain doesn’t become an inconvenience.

So with all of these features in mind, let’s take a look at the wading jackets I’d personally recommend.

Skwala RS Jacket

  • Insane build quality
  • Thoughtful design
  • Light and packable

The Skwala RS Jacket is the standard to which I personally measure every non-insulated wading jacket. Yes, Skwala is a new company, but their products are among the best on the market. What makes the RS Jacket stand out is its insanely high build quality and attention to detail. The RS Jacket is designed a half-size larger to fit over an insulating layer and your waders, so you don’t have to worry about this jacket being a tight fit. The pull tabs for the jacket’s hood are located inside the chest pockets to eliminate anything that might potentially catch fly line. And this thing will hold up to the worst downpours imaginable. It also helps cut the wind, and is extremely well-articulated, so it doesn’t bunch up when you’re hiking, rowing, or casting. What more could you ask for from your wading jacket?

Simms Bulkley Insulated Jacket

The Best Wading Jacket for You

  • Insulated for added warmth
  • Fly box friendly pockets
  • GORE-TEX lined

The Bulkley Insulated Jacket is Simms’ answer to the worst weather conditions imaginable. Seriously, this thing is bomb-proof. For starters, it’s lined with GORE-TEX both inside and out, which Simms says will keep you dry even if you’re wading in past your belly. The PrimaLoft insulation is proven to keep you warm, and Simms engineered the sleeves to prevent water from flowing up them even if you stick your arm in the river. The pockets are designed with fly boxes in mind so you’ll always have what you need within easy reach. If the ultimate in both warmth and waterproofing are what you’re after, the Bulkley is hard to beat.

Orvis Clearwater Wading Jacket

The Best Wading Jacket for You

  • Very breathable
  • Rear D-ring for net attachment
  • Lots of pockets

The Orvis Clearwater Wading Jacket offers a ton of features in a more budget-friendly price range. I’m particularly fond of the integrated D-ring for attaching a net, which removes the need to wear a full fishing pack with this jacket. It’s designed to slip over the top of all your gear, freeing you up to move unencumbered while on the water. The Clearwater also features a three-layer nylon shell that’ll keep you dry but offers superior breathability, as well. Add on the legendary Orvis quality and you’re looking at a wonderful wading jacket.

Frogg Toggs Ultra-Lite Jacket

The Best Wading Jacket for You

  • Incredibly light
  • Cheap
  • Completely waterproof

This jacket from Frogg Toggs costs a whopping $24.99, and it’s one of my absolute favorites. This thing is light, and packs down tiny. It’ll fit in a day pack without any problem. But it’s also completely waterproof, and does a decent job of retaining some of your body heat. Now, this is a no-frills jacket, intended only to keep you dry. You’re not getting a slim, well-cut hood, or articulated sleeves. What you’re getting is the best bang-for-your-buck rain jacket on the market, and one I used for years before getting a wading jacket that had a few more features.

Patagonia Swiftcurrent Wading Jacket

The Best Wading Jacket for You

  • Made from recycled nylon
  • Low-profile pockets
  • Snag-free design

Patagonia’s Swiftcurrent Wading Jacket is just another excellent entry in the company’s line of fantastic gear. This wading jacket places an emphasis on reducing or eliminating the possibility for your fly line to snag on it, which is a feature many anglers should appreciate. The fully-waterproof shell is made from 100-percent recycled nylon and it has plenty of pockets for storing fly boxes and all your terminal tackle. The jacket only weighs a hair over 22 ounces making it extremely light and easy to stuff into a day pack.

There are tons of wading jacket options on the market, and this list is only intended as a jumping-off point. Remember to carefully consider what features you do and don’t need. Something minimalist like the Frogg Toggs might be perfect for you while your buddy may need something with all the pockets and hemmed hoods.

Regardless of what you choose, make sure to take care of the jacket so it takes care of you when you need it most.

Hunting Slang 102

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You’re all brushed up on hunting lingo 101 and gun lingo 101, so let’s take it to the next level. Welcome to Hunting Slang 102.

Hunting slang is a less-than-official language that can vary by state or by region, but nonetheless, all hunters and their communities throw around terms and colloquialisms that you probably didn’t hear in your hunter safety course. Admittedly, some hunters are more crude in their slang, but they all have the same intention: to just have fun and make memories while embarking on one of the most natural journeys in the wild.

This list may not be comprehensive, but there’s plenty to add to your personal vernacular.

Game Slang:

Freezer Queen (synonyms: Old Long Nose, Slick Head, Baldy) — A female deer, typically big or old. These are worth shooting because they will fill up the freezer for plenty of dinners.

Speed Goat (synonym: Loper) — A pronghorn antelope, usually called just “antelope.” They are not actually part of the goat family, but they are the fastest. A pronghorn also isn’t technically an antelope, but they are distant relatives. A giraffe is a pronghorn antelope’s closest relative (who would’ve known?).

Dandy (synonyms: Toad, Shooter, Swamp Donkey, Pig) — A really nice male deer, typically big bodied or with a nice set of antlers and old or smart. You’ll be telling stories about this deer for a long time.

Button Buck (synonyms: Nub Buck, Nubby) — A young male deer with antlers that aren’t yet grown in. Their meat is usually tender and good eating, so depending on your goals as a hunter these could result in a successful hunt.

Mulies — Nickname for a mule deer which are typically found in the United States west of the Missouri River. They have a distinctly white behind, thick bodies, large tall ears similar to mule ears, and mature bucks have longer antler tines than whitetail deer.

Whiteys — Nickname for a whitetail deer, which are marked by their white fluffy fur on the bottom side of their tails. Whitetails can be found nearly anywhere in the U.S. except the Southwest, most of Alaska and Hawaii.

Huns — Nickname for Hungarian partridge, which are also known as gray partridge or English partridge, and have a mostly gray body and chest with some orange and cinnamon stripes throughout their feathering. They are a game bird weighing a little over a pound in the same family as pheasants and are typically found in the north central part of the U.S. Excellent eating if you can shoot one after it flushes, or flies, out of its hiding place.

Sharpies — Nickname for Sharptail Grouse

Spike — Any deer that has just one antler spike on both sides of their head, like two spikes (not to be confused with a unicorn, which only has one spike).

Fork Any deer that has antlers that branch out on either side of their head, resulting in a total of four points.

Gobbler (synonyms: Thunder Chicken, Boss Tom, Hammerhead, Red Head) — A male turkey, can be any of the types of turkeys like Merriams, Eastern, Rio Grande or Gould’s. The thundering and hammering referred to in the other nicknames come from the sound the male turkey makes during their mating dance, where they use their wings to beat the ground. They also make a sound like a gobble and the blood rushes to their head when they are excited, causing a red head.

Tree Rat — Quite simply—a squirrel! These can be either gray, red, black, or white, with white being very rare. Though they have a very fluffy long tail, they squeak, run and hide similar to rats.

Yote — A nickname for a coyote of any type, which are smaller than a wolf, but furry with a skinny snout and gray, brown, tan, white and black coloring. They can be found in nearly every state in the U.S. except Hawaii.

Dabblers — This term refers to waterfowl that eat by “dabbling” their heads underwater and keeping their butts above water. Types include the famous mallards, teal and wood ducks, as well as pintails and gadwalls. Coloring for each type ranges from grays to blacks, green, blue, brown and some orange tints.

Divers — Unlike dabblers that stay near the surface of the water, divers actually dive underwater to eat and find fish. These can include canvasbacks, scaup, Mergansers, and redheads.

Technical Slang:

BBD — Abbreviation for “Big Buck Down.” This phrase is used appropriately when a big buck has been shot and believed to be expired. A hunter would usually say this in extreme excitement.

Skunked — No, no real skunks involved here. If you have been hunting for quite a while and come home at the end of the day with no sign of your target animals or an opportunity to harvest, you’ve been “skunked” or unsuccessful.

Winded — It may be tempting to think “out of breath” on this one, but it actually means an animal smelled your scent through the wind, and basically implies you spooked them.

Busted — Similar to getting busted as a human caught red-handed, here an animal has spotted you in their natural territory, causing you to lose a decent opportunity.

Dirt Nap — One of my favorite slang phrases, this one refers to what happens when that animal goes down after a kill shot.

Flagging — Whitetail deer are known for doing this. If they are spooked or warning their fellow deer mates, their tail will perk up and the white undersides of their tails shake like a flag. This usually means you are close to blowing an opportunity to get closer or have already blown it.

Rattling — A fairly typical practice for deer or antlered animal hunting, this is when a hunter uses a pair of antler sheds or manufactured antlers to rattle together for attracting animals. Rattling imitates the sounds antlers make when two male antlered animals fight each other, typically during the rutting season or breeding season.

Bag — A bag is another word for a harvest limit, or however many animals you’re allotted to kill. Waterfowl and bird hunters usually use this term, and may or may not carry their game home in a bag.

Bagged Out or Tagged Out — This is when you’ve officially reached your harvest limit. The phrase “bagged out” is usually used in bird hunting while “tagged out” is usually used for four-legged animal hunting.

Buck Fever — Ah, yes. Good ol’ “buck fever.” Buck fever is a phenomenon that many enthusiastic hunters experience. When seeing a buck in the wild, especially one within the kill zone, a hunter may feel shaky knees, quickened heart rate, inconsistent breathing, sweaty palms, and frozen muscles. Adrenaline is to blame.

Smoke Pole — A nickname for a muzzleloader, a long-barreled gun that produces smoke when shot, due to the gunpowder that ignites when triggered.

Dope — No, not that kind of dope. Here we’re referring to urine of a female deer, or doe, that is in heat which is used in the hunt for a buck. It is found in the form of liquid within a bottle and can be sprayed or soaked on a wick, which can be hung on a tree limb. Place this in an effective spot and the scent will attract bucks during the rut.

The Rut — I’ve referenced this term a few times already, so I’ve saved the best for last. This is one of the ultimate times to hunt antlered deer. During this period of a hunting season, females are “in heat,” or preparing to be bred, and bucks are on the hunt to do the breeding. You interrupt the buck’s one-track-mindset and behavior during this period and voila, the perfect opportunity to harvest a beautiful buck is upon you.

Compound Bow vs Longbow: Who Really Wins the Fight?

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Compound bows are becoming increasingly popular nowadays. With the advancement of modern technology, compound bows are becoming more robust, flexible, and accurate.

However, a large portion of bowhunters still uses traditional longbows for archery and hunting. Now the question is, why? What is the difference between these two? And how to distinguish which one is an ideal piercing weapon?

That’s what we’re going to discuss today in our “compound bow vs longbow” guide. We’ll explore the key difference between these 2 bow types, and help you choose the best one for you.

Compound bows use a pulley system to store potential energy, resulting in high-velocity (up to 370 ft/sec), and high-powered arrows whereas traditional longbows feature a traditional outlook, are low-maintenance and are easy to carry around. Which one you’ll end up choosing depend largely on your preference.

Let’s explore more in our in-depth “Compound Bow vs Longbow” comparison:

A Brief History

Longbow vs Compound Bow

The traditional, good-old longbow comprises a bowstring that’s tied to a bowed implement. Usually, the tool is a single unit from top to bottom. To lurch your arrow far, you need to pull the bowstring back significantly.

This action requires a lot of energy and concentration. Therefore, you have to lug your entire weight backward. Besides, you need to stay upright for improved accuracy. If you have less weight, however, this action is awkward.

It’s even more difficult if your hands are unsteady. Therefore, a better contraption has replaced this mechanism in a modern-day compound bow.

Here, a pulley (cam) is introduced to recoil the strings. And to improve the versatility and reinforcement at the center, a thicker and more robust member is fitted.

Therefore, the entire length comprises a short truncated upper recurve segment, and a lower one coupled together with a much stronger middle unit.

The advantage of this new design is that it allowed for a more significant backward movement without the bow breaking apart.

What’s more? the archer now needs to spend less energy, and yet, the accuracy of the arrow has significantly improved.

Compound Bow vs Longbow: Key Differences

1. Origins

Bows have been in existence for millennia. A 17,000-year-old arrow discovered in South Africa proved that bow hunting existed even during the stone-age era.

It’s believed that the Egyptians are the ones who invented the bows and arrows. Many pieces of evidence indicate bows were in use around 2,300 BC.

During this period, the preferred construction materials were sticks from hardwood timber such as ash and oak. The string was made of sheep intestine.

Obviously, so many changes have taken place since then. From the rudimentary and inaccurate weapon, you now have an extremely lightweight and powerful tool.

Compound bow

A compound bow is an improvement upon the longbow. It’s fairly intricate. Holless Allen gets credit for the development of the compound bow.

He modified a longbow into the much stronger compound bow we see and love today. He did this by initiating several improvements to the longbow and showcasing it through a patent he applied for in 1966 and received in 1969.

The new compound made its debut in the US National Archery Competition in the 1970s.

Longbow

Bowhunting enthusiasts Baer, Hiyt, and Mathews refined the longbow using new and modern materials. They transformed the hitherto wood frame and sheep intestines elements previously used for these longbows.

But even before the new revolution in the manufacture of the longbow, a previous one had already occurred.

The most advanced modernization of medieval archery goes to the Welsh. It appears that they manufactured the longbow into a tactical offensive weapon.

Their archers managed to withhold a large regime of British soldiers in the Battle of Waterloo in 1066. But the first recorded use of a longbow was during the battle of AD 633 during the war between the Welsh and Mercians.

Since then, this particular longbow earned the name of the British longbow. It’s been used in numerous battles with the French both on land and in the sea.

2. Design

The design of a longbow varies from that of a compound bow. Let’s see what our “compound bow vs longbow” comparison guide points out about the design differences between these two types of bows:

Compound bow

The high-quality compound bows are sophisticated. They have two sewn recurve ends fitted with pulleys at the end (limb). Either or both cams feature one or more cables attached to the opposite limb.

These cams provide the pivot needed when you pull back the bowstring. This action (let off) enhances the accuracy of the arrow while giving a more natural aiming response.

The center of the compound bow (riser) pivots the limbs, bow sights, bow stabilizers, and quivers. This section required greater flexibility to transfer as much of the stored energy from the bow to the arrow as possible.

This segment curves out towards the target, making it exert more force, which is subsequently transferred to the arrow.

Newer models of compound bows have cables and cable slides as well as a higher brace height. This is the length between a grip throat and the bowstring.

Longbow

The longbow, on the other hand, comprises a long weapon measuring about four feet long. Its stave was from a D-shaped section of a hardwood branch.

It has a singular and long limb. Typically, it’s made from a single material. There is no reinforcement or clamping along the entire stretch.

Even if the bowstring structure is the same as in a compound bow, the longbow still shoots slower and requires more force.

As a result, the arching process is also more strenuous than the former. This is due to the lack of a bow curve, the absence of cams as well as a more prolonged and weaker limb.

3. Material

The elements that make the longbow and compound bow affect how these two tools perform. Let’s look and the material composition of compound bow vs longbow.

Compound bow

Previously, compound bows comprised plastic-coated steel. However, due to lower tensile strength and flexibility – that decreased the arrow’s overall accuracy, – they now feature more suitable materials.

The more prominent material currently is the high-modulus polyethylene compound. It offers higher tensile strength as well as maximum energy transfer.

Longbow

The ancient longbows were constructed mostly from yew. However, hazel and elms were occasionally used. It was then coated with resin, wax, or excellent tallow to improve its tensile strength.

Currently, however, composite materials of laminated fiberglass and tampered wood are now used to make recreational longbows.

4. Uses and Benefits

Long ago, bows and arrows were used for hunting and conquering. But presently, they are used primarily in sports hunting and bow shooting competitions. Archery has grown as a favorite pastime as well as a game in all major tournaments.

Compound bow

A compound bow has a more significant benefit due to its design. The robust cams allow for a higher energy reserve. You only draw a portion of the energy and the rest remains at the front where it’s needed most when shooting.

The horizontal limbs also reduce the vibration and recoil intensity before shooting the compound bow, improving the accuracy of the shot as a result.

Further, modern compound bows have sighting devices to improve aim, as well as mechanical release to retain shot consistencies. Therefore, you are likely to shoot accurately using less effort.

Longbow

Longbow proved challenging to use since it required an inertia of over 65 lbs to deliver the necessary projectile power. This posture is also more strenuous since you’ll have to arch significantly back to convert sufficient energy needed by the arrow.

Different types of longbows were used for assorted arrows. There existed fight arrows, with chisel arrows. Other bows accommodated hunting arrows. Even within them, they also vary between animal and bird hunting types.

When you compare a longbow vs. a compound bow, you find that a longbow is lighter and quicker to shoot. Besides, it’s also quieter.

Additionally, the longbow is easy to make since it needs just one or two tree branches.

5. Draw Length

In archery, you need to be sure about a bow’s draw length. Typically, a draw length has a close correlation with your overall body size.

Take the distance from the tip of a nocked arrow to the tip of your draw-out hands. Divide this distance by 2.5, and you’ll get your draw length,

Compound bow

For a compound bow draw length, measuring the arrow tip should ideally be around two feet beyond the riser at full draw. When you hold this position and measure the arrow length, you get the draw length by adding one foot to the computed distance.

Longbow

The draw length of a longbow is usually more than five feet. Many of the early models had their measures reaching up to 12 feet. But they commonly averaged six-and-a-half feet long.

6. Limitations

Even the best-functioning longbows or compound bows have their drawbacks. Below are some of the shortfalls that are apparent in both the compound bow and the longbow.

Compound bow

By design, compound bows have many moving parts. This structure makes them susceptible to breakages and parts malfunctions. Further, having many elements make compound bow maintenance and handling a bit expensive.

Replacement is also intensive. It requires special tools to replace and repair damaged parts or strings of the compound bow.

Longbow

The longbow stretches more slowly and unsteadily. When you draw it backward, your arms move with the full energy you are exerting. You need more power to hold back your hands firmly.

At the same time, during the process of drawing your bow, less energy is available at the point where the bowstring meets the arrow.

This has the dual effects of releasing less punch directly to the arrow, as well as exacerbating your unstable hold. Hence when you release the arrow, it first, only moves a short distance and is less linear in its movement.

Further, it’s more likely to miss its target due to a weak trajectory caused by less force.

7. Care and Maintenance Requirements

Proper care for your bow is vital. You appreciate that owning a modern compound bow may cost you up to $1,000. Even with the composite material, they have many parts and accessories that need tender care.

Compound bow

Compound bows have sights, pulleys, limbs, cables, and cams. All these are made of different materials. Further, their assembly is delicate. Hence you ought to maintain each component individually:

  • Cables: Waxing protects your cables when not in use. Do this once a month or after every exposure to the elements.
  • Limbs: Laminated limbs are susceptible to cracking under various layers. Do a thorough inspection (by rubbing with cotton wool) to identify such defects.
  • Frame: This component suffers from a lot of tension. Inspect it routinely for cracks and twists.
  • Cams: Visually check on the cams before using your compound bow. To prevent corrosion and discoloration, wipe this part clean after every use.
  • Accessories like bow-sights rest and quivers also require regular maintenance. Accurately mount them to avoid any damage through colliding with other surfaces.

Longbow

Longbows are made from composite frames or laminated timber. Run periodic inspections to identify damages to the fame and the bowstring.

Apply remedial measures similar to those on frames and limbs and accessories in the compound bows. Don’t store limbs in a hot compartment. Keep your longbow in a cool dry place. Better still, afford similar treatment to bolts and nuts.

Are Compound Bows Better Than Longbows: Which One to Get?

Compound bows and longbows have been used for centuries in hunting and archery. Now, you might be thinking Is a compound bow better than a longbow, or is it the other way around?

That’s a question that has been debated by hunters, archers, and outdoor enthusiasts for many years. Let’s find out which is the better option for you.

When a Compound Bow Is Better

Compound bows are becoming increasingly popular due to their superior accuracy and power compared to traditional longbows. While some people will always prefer the classic look of a longbow, it’s hard to deny the benefits of a compound bow.

Compound bows have several advantages over longbows. They are capable of higher draw weights than traditional longbows, allowing for greater accuracy, longer range, and more penetrating power.

The cams on a compound bow also make it easier to shoot with a consistent draw length, which can be very helpful for novice archers.

Additionally, compound bows are usually easier to maintain and tune than longbows. This can be a big plus for people who aren’t as experienced with bow maintenance and tuning.

When a Long Bow Is Better

Longbows have several advantages over their modern counterpart that make them attractive to traditionalists.

Their simpler design makes them lighter and easier to carry, making them a popular choice for hunters who must traverse long distances.

Longbows can also be more durable than compound bows since they are less complicated and require fewer parts. They don’t usually require as much maintenance or tuning either, which can be a plus for those with limited technical skills.

Finally, traditional longbows are often more aesthetically pleasing than compound bows, which can be a plus for those who prioritize looks.

Longbow vs Compound Bow: Which One You Should Get

The choice of whether to get a compound bow or a longbow is up to the individual archer or hunter. Both have their advantages and disadvantages, so it’s important to weigh all of the factors before making a decision.

Some archers may prefer the classic look and feel of a longbow, while others may be drawn to the power and accuracy of a compound bow.

Ultimately, the choice is yours, so do your research and find the option that best fits your needs. Good luck!

Conclusion

And with that, we’re at the endgame of our in-depth “compound bow vs longbow” comparison. Let’s do a quick recap.

You understand that compound bows offer better performance than longbows. However, you may still come across diehard fans of traditional bowing techniques.

To them, using both a compound bow and a longbow propel the arrow to the ordinary distance of 22 feet. But the inclusion of modern technology into bowing has made significant strides that you can’t ignore.

In fact, the new construction and materials have made bow hunting a more comfortable sport for everyone.

So, whether you aspire to hunt elks, deers, or any other small-medium game animal; or win a trophy at an archery completion, you have to start by learning how to use, differentiate and care for your bows and arrows.

Either way, you still need to practice consistently to perfect your pull, nock, aim, and shoot.

FAQs

Which Type of Bow Is More Accurate: Longbow or Compound?

Compound bows are generally considered to be more accurate than longbows as they feature a system of pulleys that help create consistent draw weight throughout the shot.

Is It Easier to Shoot a Longbow or Compound Bow?

In most cases, compound bows are easier to shoot than longbows since they feature a system of pulleys that help make the draw weight consistent throughout the shot. Compound bows also tend to be less affected by wind speeds, giving them an extra accuracy boost.

How Much Draw Weight Should I Use With Each Type of Bow?

Generally speaking, recurve bows require more draw weight than compound bows, with 40-50 lbs being the standard range for recurves and 25-45 lbs being the usual range for compounds.

For safety reasons, it is important to never exceed the maximum recommended draw weight for either type of bow.

Pickerel: Better Fishing Than Eating

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In the winter anglers do many odd things to channel their fishing fever into substitutes, hoping to dim in some small fashion the feverish intensity of their urge. They whittle new plugs, polish old plugs, discard battered flugs, tie flies, mend nets, read outdoor journals, pore over maps to find new fishing spots to try in the spring, dream about exotic trips to Canada, Yellowstone, Iceland.

If they have the time and money they jet to Florida and pursue glamorous saltwater species. Florida in the winter isn’t really such a red-hot place to fish: It’s better by far in the spring.

Area waters are ignored, except by a few hardy souls with butane in their veins who know about a green snake of a gamefish called the chain pickerel. These toughskinned pickerel-pursuers couldn’t care less that hatches on the trout streams and spawning in the bass lakes are months away. Their quarry loves the cold.

The Washington area offers prime pickerel waters within a one- or two-hour drive in just about any direction (though north, south and east are preferable to west.) Pickerel are in ponds, lakes, rivers and huge impoundments. Yet they draw little attention from fishermen.

Some people simply don’t like the cold, and since pickerel bite best from December through March, quite a few potential anglers never try them.

You’re probably read that pickerel are harsh on the palate, poor fighters and ugly. The last point is moot, the second false. The first one is true.

Pickerel have tasty, sweet meat, but few people get past the first mouthful before they give up in disgust at the bones riddling the flesh. You can try scouring them with cross-cuts and frying in hot oil, which is supposed to make the bones “chewable.” But even chewable bones are anathema to some. There are also complex filleting methods you can look up in dusty tomes if you’re dead set on eating everything you catch.

Whether the pickerel is an ugly fish we’ll leave to the aesthetes. Certainly they are prehistoric-looking, with long, pointed snouts, enormous mouths and a ghastly set of razor-sharp teeth.

Describing the fighting ability of a fish – any fish – is always risky, because each fish is an individual. One pickerel may fight like the devil and the next may fight like a wet paper bag. The same is true of bass, trout and catfish. Generally speaking, pickerel are good fighters – but not great.

But fighting really isn’t much more important than eating qualities or looks where pickerel are concerned. What’s appealing is the whole ritual of pursuing a unique gamefish in his home waters and enticing him to take the bait. Fishing is first and foremost a battle of wits (man) against instincts (the fish). When pickerel are the quarry, the encounter is rich and challenging.

Pickerel habitat encompasses a broad spectrum of water types. Lakes and tiny ponds hold fish, as do sprawling impoundments, broad rivers and wadeable streams. Pickerel prefer blackwater ponds and creeks – waters with a low pH that are stained brown with tannic acids given off by certain plants.

Certain of Maryland’s Eastern Shore ponds and rivers come to mind immediately, as do similar branches and lakes in the tidewater portions of Virginia. The Choptank is one of Maryland’s better pickerel rivers, as are the Nanticoke, Pocomoke and Severn: A list of ponds in Maryland that contain pickerel is printed in the fishing regulations pamphley given out where licenses are sold.

Virginia pickerel, called jackpike by locals, inhabit many blackwaters. The Mattaponi, Pamunkey and Chickahominy, located east of I-95 between Richmond and Fredericksburg, are classic pickerel rivers. A.P. Hill and Quantico military reservations also offer good pickerel possibilities.

However, pickerel also thrive in waters about as black as Mountain Dew. Such inland lakes as Anna and Kerr offer many outsized pickerel in the four – and five-pound range.

Average pickerel in most waters run closer to one or two pounds. Due to their diminutive size, heavy bass tackle is not required to catch the lean fish. Ultralight or light spinning gear is in order, with lines testing four to eight pounds. Den’t worry about the tales of pickerel’s teeth shearing the line. It rarely happens. Wire leaders only serve to impede the action of lures and bait.

Those who favor artificials may hate to admit it, but pickerel can usually be caught more readily with live minnows. Their diet consists almost entirely of other fish, and they seem powerless to resist a helpless victim floundering within reach. So greedy are pickerel that I’ve caught them on small shiners when they still had freshly killed seven-inch-long sunfish bulging in their stomachs.

Look for pickerel in moderate to shallow depths of lakes and rivers where they cruise for food. The fish also like to hold parallel to weedbeds and dropoffs, where they lie in ambush waiting for an unwary baitfish to fin by. When a minnow swims near, the pickerel contorts its body like a snake coiling to strike and darts with blinding speed at the victim, clenching it sideways in the grasp of its inward-angling teeth.

If the pickerel are deeper than five feet, use either a shad dart and minnow or a fine wire hook, split shot and minnow. Crawl the bait in slowly. If the jackpike are in the shallows you can use a bobber and move the minnow from spot to spot after a minute or two if you don’t get a strike.

Lures can take pickerel, also, and sometimes they’ll outfish a minnow. The Johnson Silver Minnow tipped with a pork rind is the old standby pickerel hait, and it hasn’t lost its appeal. Also good are red- and-white Daredevils and broken-back Bebels and Rapalas.

Work these lures with a moderate to fast retrieve and a tight grip on your rod. The strike of a pickerel can be an explosive thing – something that’s sure to take the chill out of a cold wintry day.

The Most Powerful Air Rifles of 2024

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I started my big bore airgunning journey back in 2002 with a .308 semi-custom rifle built for me by the father of the modern big bore airgun, Dennis Quackenbush. Then, later that year, he built another rifle in .50 caliber for me to hunt hogs and exotics down in Texas. Over the years, Dennis produced another dozen rifles for me in a range of calibers—including the .457 caliber used on most of my airgun hunts in South Africa. At that time, if you wanted the most powerful airgun for hunting, Quakenbush was the only show in town. And even though this was a niche market, and arguably it still is, there was enough business to keep his order book filled with a long list of potential buyers just waiting to give him their money. The Quackenbush rifles were uncomplicated, solidly built, and extremely shootable hunting air rifles that were truly made for the field.

As the demand for guns grew, along with the waiting time for a Quackenbush rifle, other small-scale manufacturers came to market with rifles of varying quality. This situation persisted for a few years as the market continued to grow.

Then, a couple of important events occurred over a few short years. The American airgun manufacturing giant Crosman and later the smaller, more experienced PCP air rifle manufacturer AirForce Airguns, released true big-bore air rifles. Concurrent with this, other manufacturing companies started to gain traction, some small-scale startups such as Professional Big Bore Airguns (PBBA), and other large-scale manufacturers such as Hatsan Airguns, offered a large and evolving lineup of powerful big bore rifles.

The benchmark for the most powerful air rifles is power output, which makes sense, even though I firmly believe that accuracy trumps this and field handling is close on its heels. But all things considered, once you have achieved a level of accuracy and come up with a design that works for shooters, more power is usually better. So, with this in mind, I will present a few of the most powerful airguns available today. It’s not possible to cover all the calibers and configurations, but I’ll pluck out a few of my favorite hunting rifles.

  • The Most Powerful Air Rifle: AEA Zeus
  • Best Budget: Umarex Hammer .50 caliber
  • Best for Accuracy and Power: FX Impact .30 caliber
  • Hatsan PileDriver
  • AirForce Texan
  • Airguns of Arizona Bushbuck

Evaluating Air Rifle Power for Hunting

Every manufacturer wants to be known as having the most powerful air rifle in the world, and until recently, this was a fluid state between a couple of the companies. The “correct” answer of who made the most powerful rifle was a bit difficult to assess because shooters were modifying their guns to up the power. So, to provide context, I always look at peak power in an out-of-the-box configuration.

A man in camouflage aiming the AirForce Texan air rifle on a hunt
The author using his AirForce Texan on a hunt. Jim Chapman

It is worth noting that in the world of airguns, ammunition (slugs, bullets) and calibers are decoupled from the power produced by the gun. As an example, two .457 rifles with 26-inch barrels of different designs using the same projectile, can deliver vastly different power outputs. I have two .50 caliber rifles from different manufacturers, one generates 220 ft-lbs and the other 700 ft-lbs using the same slug. The power output is a function of barrel length and the valve design and setup, the fill pressure, and the airflow through the transfer port. Of course, it is possible to get more power by going to a larger caliber, optimizing the valve, and driving it at higher pressures. Still, caliber alone is not the primary factor.

With that said, let’s look at my list of the most powerful air rifles available today, which all have power in common, but they represent a mixed bag of features and styles.

Want to learn the basics of PCP airguns? Check out PCP Air Rifles 101 to learn more.

Most Powerful Air Rifles: Reviews and Recommendations

The Most Powerful Air Rifle: AEA Zeus

Key Features

  • Available in .58 and .72 caliber
  • Barrel Lengths: 16, 24, and 32 inches
  • Up to 1500 ft-lbs for .72 cal.
  • Weight: 12 pounds
  • Sidelever action
  • Hardwood sporter style stock
  • Threaded for DONNYFL moderator

Pros

  • Very powerful
  • Wide range of configurations (calibers and barrel lengths)
  • Compact in shorter barrel lengths
  • Purpose-designed moderator available

Cons

  • Heavy (very heavy in long barrel versions)
  • Loud (Unless suppressed)

For years the airgun companies have all claimed to manufacture the most powerful air rifle, and in fairness, this has been open to debate as they were close in performance. However, the AEA Zeus in .72 put that argument to rest, as it is clearly the most powerful. Do you need all that power? In most cases, probably not, but the intrinsic energy produced by this power plant allowed AEA to design short rifle and carbine versions of the .72 and add the .58 while maintaining a high-power output.

A man holding an airgun kneeling over a dead deer
The Zeus is a well-made, rugged, shootable, accurate, and very powerful big bore airgun. Jim Chapman

The AEA Zeus is a traditionally styled big-bore air rifle with a hardwood sporter-style stock. The wood and metal work on these rifles is solid to the point of being over engineered, not a bad thing in a gun generating power output up to 1500 ft-lbs. The added weight helps to dampen the recoil generated by a 500-grain slug traveling down the barrel at 1025 fps. I’ve used this gun to take a couple of massive Texan boar, and the terminal performance is outstanding. In my experience, the Zeus is a solid big game gun for the largest quarry.

Read our full AEA Zeus review to learn more.

Best Budget: Umarex Hammer

Key Features

  • .50 caliber
  • Weight: 8.5 pounds
  • Delivers approximately 700 ft-lbs of energy
  • Up to 5 shots per fill
  • Incorporates a 2-shot shuttle magazine
  • Utilizes Umarex Lightspeed valve

Pros

  • Accurate
  • Shot-to-shot consistency for three full power shots
  • Lightweight and ergonomic

Cons

  • The barrel is longer than I prefer (Carbine version to be released soon)
  • Loud

I’ve hunted deer, hogs, and javelina with this rifle, and the overall performance has been impressive. This gun is fairly lightweight for a big-bore air rifle and carries well for long slogs through rough terrain. The accuracy is spot on in the 50 to 80-yard range I typically prefer, but it can reach out farther when called on to do so. The Hammer lives up to its name regarding terminal performance, and I’ve seen the proprietary Umarex 510 grain slug cleanly anchor some big hogs.

The Umarex Hammer is a .50 caliber rifle designed to accelerate a greater mass faster using proprietary technology from the company’s Lightspeed valve. The design of this air management system, coupled with a .510 caliber, 550-grain lead slug, is capable of generating over 700 ft-lbs of energy at the muzzle. The cocking action of the Hammer is very light and requires about 2 pounds of effort to operate. This short, effortless action actuates a two-shot shuttle magazine for fast follow-up shots when required.

Best for Accuracy and Power: FX Impact M3

Key Features

  • Max Velocity: 850 fps
  • Weight 6.85 pounds
  • Muzzle Energy (65.5 grain): 128 ft-lbs
  • Shot Capacity: 21
  • Max Shots Per Fill: 85
  • Sideliver

Pros

  • Very accurate (Used to win RMAC many times)
  • Customizable
  • High shot count
  • Excellent for coyote and small game hunting

Cons

  • Not meant for big game hunting

My top pick for a crossover rifle that performs well for both small-game and predator hunting is the FX Impact air rifle. This bullpup design has a lot going for it, and the frame is rugged and lightweight, with an adjustable stock that accepts standard AR pistol grips. The air storage is a 480cc removable carbon fiber (other options available) tank that can be charged to 3600 psi, and the design allows extra bottles to be packed and changed in the field.

Save on an FX Impact this black friday
The FX Impact M3 easily shoots 1/2 inch groups at 50 yards. Scott Einsmann

The sidelever action is one of the quickest, most tactile, and smoothest cycling that I have used, and reliably indexes the magazines every time. What really seals the deal for me though, is that the modular design lets the shooter swap out barrels, magazines, and probes to optimize the gun for different types of hunting. The hunter can use the .22 barrel for a rabbit hunt, then swap to a .25 barrel that has a liner optimized for slugs to do a long-range prairie dog shoot, then swap again for the .30 caliber barrel to hunt predators.

Hatsan PileDriver

Key Features

  • Available in .457, .50, and .62 caliber
  • Adjustable synthetic thumbhole stock
  • Sidelever cocking action
  • Easy access loading port accepts longer projectiles
  • Several Picatinny rails for mounting accessories

Pros

  • Accurate and powerful
  • Rugged construction, reliable
  • Generates six full power shots per fill

Cons

  • Big and heavy
  • Single shot (though loads rapidly)

I’ve been shooting the Hatsan Piledriver in the .457 and .50 caliber versions for a few years now, and have used it to take several deer, hogs, javelina, and exotics. This year Hatsan added the .62 caliber version to the lineup, generating over 750 ft-lbs with a 650-grain hollow point slug. This gun is a great performer with respect to accuracy, power, and reliability.

The PileDriver .62 is a bullpup configuration, but it is still a big gun. However, the .62 caliber clipped 4 inches off the 33-inch standard barrel bringing the overall length to 42 inches, and reducing the weight to a tad over 9.5 pounds. The synthetic thumbhole stock has an adjustable length of pull and cheekpiece. It uses a 480 cc carbon fiber tank to deliver up to five shots. The single-action gun cycles with a smooth side lever action, and loads quickly through easy access to the loading port. It also has Hatsan’s two-stage Quatro trigger, which is crisp, with a medium pull out of the box, and can be adjusted.

Read Next: The Best PCP Air Rifle Compressors of 2023

Honorable Mentions

AirForce Texan

The AirForce Texan big bore air rifles have become the most popular of the big bores over the last few years, and there are several reasons for this. The bottle for a buttstock design and inline valving are well proven in the field. The guns are adjustable and lend themselves to customization and personalization. They are also very well made and available in several calibers, including .257, .308, .357, .457, and .50. The performance of the Texan, with respect to both accuracy and power, is rock solid. I’ve used mine to take several species of North American big game. The most powerful version of this gun out of the box is the Texan LSS .50-CF, which is a .50 caliber gun generating over 800 ft-lb. The rifle features a 490 cc and 250 BAR tank that delivers three to four shots per fill. That’s moving a 620-grain slug at 620 fps for about 805 ft-lb. I find that the Texan’s excellent trigger helps wring the most accuracy out of the Lothar Walther barrel and the rifle as a whole.

Airguns of Arizona Bushbuck

A black Airguns of Arizona Bushbuck air rifle

Airguns of Arizona is a major U.S. retailer that is especially well known as an importer of high-end European guns. But a few years ago, they began manufacturing a big bore rifle called the Bushbuck. To my eye, this is the best looking big bore rifle on the market. It is a bolt action sporter style rifle in .452 that is dressed in a laminate stock with stippling on the forestock and grip, with an adjustable cheekpiece. This rifle is solidly built and weighs in at 10.2 pounds with an overall length of 49.5 inches and a 30-inch barrel. My Bushbuck is the compact version. It is 43.5 inches long with a 22.5-inch barrel. After a point, I am usually willing to trade off some power for a more compact gun. The 285 cc air reservoir fills to 4500 psi using an unobtrusive under-barrel tube that helps maintain the rifle’s sleek lines, while providing two to four shots per fill. The single-shot Bushbuck has two power settings and generates over 600 ft-lb in the high setting. I’ve carried and used this gun on both North American and South African hunts, and it is a capable rifle for any non-dangerous game.

FAQs

Final Thoughts on the Most Powerful Air Rifles

The most powerful air rifles are quite different, but there are similarities connecting them all. I would be happy using any one of them when out after deer or hogs, though my preference would change based on the specific situations and conditions. All of these rifles are accurate, generate more than sufficient power, and have an acceptable shot count for big game hunting. But air usage, number of shots, sound level, anticipated range, and size and weight of the gun are variables each hunter needs to assess based on their own needs and preferences.

Other factors to consider are, how will you keep the gun filled? Will you get a compressor or refill tanks at a local paintball or dive shop? Can, or will, the local shop in your area charge the tank up to over 4500 psi? It’s a lot easier to keep a gun charged at 3600 psi than 4500. Can you reduce the power if hunting in an area where limited range is advantageous, or so as to reduce air usage? Is noise an issue, and do you need to have the lowest possible sound signature? Will most hunting be from a blind or a stand, or will you spend hours covering large tracts of land on foot?

Each shooter needs to weigh the importance of these variables to find what suits them best. I can honestly say that — my own personal preferences and biases aside — any of these rifles could be a perfect big game rifle depending on what you like and what’s important for you and your intended uses.

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