I purchased the Pro-X almost six months ago after reading about it in Slingshot World Magazine. After an initial issue I experienced upon receipt of my order, I was blown away with how quickly Saunders was to, not only respond to my frustrated emails, but how fast they were to make things right. Now that I have had the time to shoot the Pro-X a while, I believe I can give it an accurate customer review. I own like 30-40 other catapults and I think the Pro-X best resembles a “star-craft” style shooter. I instantly fell in love upon first shots. I grew up in the Boy Scouts of America, shooting archery long before ever taking a slingshot seriously. However, once I discovered the true marksmanship qualities in catapults, I also realized my childhood archery fundamentals drastically minimized any learning curves related to achieving consistency and accuracy when shooting slingshots. That being said, shooting the Pro-X feels closest to a bow’s shot routine, compared to all my other frames. It makes shooting heavy caliber ammo/bands comfortable, REPEATABLE, and most importantly accurate, especially at longer distances. Don’t get me wrong, I’m capable of shooting some heavy .80 anit-cold bands and 1/2″ steel with a Scout from SimpleShot, but I would have never expected to put a grouping on target at 30 – 40 meters. That’s right, accuracy with 7/16″-1/2″ steel at that distance is achievable with the Pro-X! That is where this masterpiece shines. Everything else: The way the Pro-X folds up makes it more portable than any other of its size/caliber. The hard pouch design is revolutionary, in my opinion, allowing just about anyone to pick it up a shoot without having to worry about the perfect pouch release that plagues many new shooters. The fiber optics “Pipper Sight” puts any other attempts at a slingshot sight system to shame with how bright the military grade fiber optics are to how useful the little liquid level is for newer shooters. I love how versatile it is by having the ability to configure the sight on either fork tip depending on the distance of target. Having the ability and knowledge to tune the Pro-X to hit a target like 60 meters away really separates it from any competition. The Clod Poppers I got with my order are awesome, they are the same size as any 7/16″ steel ammo I shoot and unlike some other clay ammo brands I’ve tried, the Clod Poppers I received were all the same size and they were all perfectly round! I even found that their weight were all within 0.1-0.2 grams (1.45g – 1.65g with MOST right around 1.60g) which allows for repeatable results.
The only negatives I’ve experienced so far (A) With the Pipper Sight installed, the Pro-X won’t fully collapse. The little level is in the way from allowing the arm to click into it’s closed position. (B) Latex wears out no matter what, and I find a correlation that seems to follow the rule: the more fun you’re having, the faster they wear! With the Pro-X, Specialty band sets are required for replacement and being a shooter who cuts and makes his own replacement band sets, this is frustrating.
In conclusion, don’t buy this if you want to shoot indoors or even in tight-quarter backyard spaces. The Pro-X is DEFINITELY not a 1/4″ steel “plinker”. This tool provides power and accuracy at distances that can’t be touched by any other catapult, In my opinion, and should be used as such. I felt good doing business with Saunders, a family business, knowing that my Pro-X was made in the USA. If you are on the fence about buying, rest assured you will be getting a quality product that comes with even better customer service.
Thanks again Chuck, for the awesome Saunders experience!
Very few firearms have been a top choice for military, police, and civilian shooters alike for over half a century like the Beretta M9 series.
Two of the updates of the M9 design, the M9A1, and the M9A3, are still some of the more compelling full-size handguns on the market today. But, what are the differences between these two guns, and which is the best option for you?
While both of these pistols are truly world-class designs and come from the same general blueprint, there might well be some differences between the two that make one better than the other for your purposes.
The Beretta M9A1 vs M9A3 are very similar in terms of specs and overall design. The M9A3 has a higher capacity and is a bit more customizable, with a threaded barrel, longer rail, and removable front sight. The M9A1, on the other hand, has a three-dot sight and a slightly shorter barrel.
In this article, we’ll compare each of these gun models head to head, getting into specifics of size, ergonomics, optics, controls, and more.
For a lot of folks fighting in the Global war on terror, their first encounter with a pistol was a Beretta M9A1. According to Beretta’s website, the M9A1 was designed specifically to meet Marine Corps requirements that were cognizant of not only Desert Storm in 1990-91 but the then-ongoing conflicts in Iraq and Afghanistan.
The main thing that folks transitioning from the M9 to the A1 variant would be likely to notice is the inclusion of a Picatinny rail on the underside of the pistol’s frame. This allows users to attach lights and lasers, greatly enhancing the operational capabilities of the weapon. From there, the changes are more subtle.
The front and back straps, as well as the grips, of the A1 model are more aggressive than its older counterpart to make it easier to grip while sweating or wearing gloves. Additionally, the M9A1 came with magazines with a specially designed coating to resist the sand that is so common in Iraq.
Basically, you can think of the M9A1 as a slightly refreshed and face-lifted model of the M9, with both some cosmetic and performance improvements to make it a more effective weapon for troops in the field.
If you’re looking for a Kydex or hybrid Beretta M9A1 holster, check out our selection of IWB and OWB holsters here.
Beretta M9A3
If the A1 model was a refreshed version of the M9, the A3 variant is something like what folks in the car community might call a restomod: a redesign and retrofitting that keeps the original design philosophy in mind, but that stretches performance to its limits.
The A1 model was adopted into military service in 2006. With about another decade of learning in the field, arguably the best research and development on the planet, Beretta came out with the A3 in 2015.
The M9A3 adds even more Picatinny rail to give users more options for installing lights and lasers, in addition to larger, 17-round magazines. The grip was also thinned out, with the option to add a more traditional, thicker grip. Finally, the magazine geometry was changed to make it easier to reload by feel.
In effect, the M9A3’s list of changes represents a fine-tuning of the M9A1 into one of the most compelling military pistols that are in current or recent use.
If you’re looking for a Kydex or hybrid M9A3 holster, check out our selection of IWB and OWB holsters here.
Beretta M9A1 vs M9A3: Specs
Beretta M9A1 vs M9A3: Size & Capacity
With most of these comparisons, we’re going to be splitting hairs, since both the A1 and A3 are iterations of the M9 design. There are, however, some meaningful differences when it comes to size and capacity.
As you can see in the chart above, the two pistols are very similar in size, with an inch here and an ounce there being added and subtracted in the various dimensions of the two designs.
Importantly, the M9A3’s standard magazine capacity is 17 rounds, two more than the older design. Those two rounds in effectively the same sized pistol lead us to lean a little bit in the direction of the M9A3 in this category.
Beretta M9A1 vs M9A3: Ergonomics
Frame
The major difference in the frames between these two firearms is that the M9A3 has a slightly more vertical hand position than the M9A1. For folks picking up both of them for the first time on the same day, the A3 might feel a little more natural to point and shoot. If, on the other hand, people spent many range days with the A1, then the older model will likely feel more like home.
The difference in frame geometry is also somewhat offset given that the A3 can be used with a thicker grip that is the same size as that of the A1 as well as its standard, very slightly thinner grip profile.
Slide & Barrel
Here is where things get a little bit different: while the slide on the two guns is extremely similar, the two major upgrades on the A3 model give it the edge here.
First, the A3’s slide can be switched between models with or without a decocker. While this is a niche feature, it’s one that some folks will deeply appreciate, considering you can have a new slide shipped to your door.
Second, the A3’s barrel comes threaded from the factory, making the A3 a better choice for people who might be thinking about suppressing their M9s.
Generally, the A1 and A3 shoot very similarly in terms of their slide and barrel, but the ability to more easily suppress the A3 with the included threaded barrel might sway some folks. Oh, also, the M9A3 comes in Flat Dark Earth in case you want your M9 in a color other than black.
Beretta M9A1 vs M9A3: Sights & Optics
This might be the category in which these firearms differ most from each other, and where a lot of users might make their choice between them a little clearer.
The M9A1 comes with white three-dot sights that are relatively easy to use in the daytime, and reasonably well at night.
The rear sights are adjustable on the A1 model, meaning you can drift them left to right to zero the pistol, or replace them entirely with a mode of your choice from the aftermarket. But, and this is important, the front sights are integral and are not coming off without a grinder.So, if you like a white dot front sight, good. If not, then you might like the A3.
The A3 model was designed so both the rear and front sights are removable. This opens users up to a lot more options, including raised sights for use with suppressors, making the threaded barrel that much more useful.
You can attach a light or laser on the bottom of the frame of both the A1 and the A3. The A3 does have a longer Picatinny rail in addition to being able to swap out the front sight, which the A1 cannot do.
Beretta M9A1 vs M9A3: Controls
Safety
In their stock configurations, both the M9A1 and M9A3 have a combination decocker and safety, which makes it possible for these guns to be carried with the hammer down on a live chamber safely.
Here the edge goes to the M9A3 since it is possible to buy a slide that only has a decocker. Many folks consider the additional manual safety to be redundant and unnecessary. There are ways to do the same thing to an A1, but it’s a lot more involved than simply popping on a new slide like you can with the A3.
Trigger
The trigger on these two firearms is identical for the purposes of most shooters: it’s a double/single-action trigger that takes some getting used to.
With DA/SA triggers, the first pull is a heavy one that cocks the hammer and then fires a round, while subsequent shots are lighter and shorter. This means that the shooter will have to get used to two different trigger pulls to shoot either of these handguns well.
Which is Right For Me?
Because the A1 and A3 models of the M9 are so similar to each other, the choice here will be a mostly personal one depending on your preference.
If you’d like to get the most modern version of the M9, with the ability to easily use a suppressor and upgraded sights along with larger lights and lasers, then the M9A3 is for you.
The Beretta M9A3’s accuracy might be a little bit better than its older predecessor with some upgraded sights, better grips, and more optics options on the bottom of the frame. And if the accuracy doesn’t help, then you get two more rounds to hit the target.
With that said, one thing to seriously consider is the possibility of getting an awesome deal. Since the M9A1 is no longer in production, you can often buy them for less, and they make great concealed-carry guns. The Beretta M9A1 specs are certainly nothing to scoff at, and it’s an excellent defensive tool.
Summary
The variations between the Beretta M9A1 vs M9A3 are very small. The two pistols are very similar in size, with the main differences being in their sights and slides.
Overall, both of these make an excellent choice of full-size handgun, and either one would serve you well: if you want the most modern version go for the A3 model, but an A1 at a deep discount in the local gun store would be an almost ideal gun for people who plan to shoot a lot and want good quality for the money.
If you’re looking for a new IWB, OWB, or pocket carry holster, visit our Holsters by Gun Model page for Kydex holsters that are custom-made for your weapon of choice.
Interested in items beyond holsters? Check out our Resources Page for links to recommended products like lights, lasers, first aid, maintenance, and more, and browse our selection of belts, apparel, and accessories at our website, vedderholsters.com.
To stay up-to-date on all the latest Vedder Holsters content and offerings, check out our blog and follow us on Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter. And be sure to visit our sister company, GeoGrit, for all of your American-made minimalist wallet needs.
Hybrid striped bass (also known as a wiper or whiterock bass) is a hatchery-created hybrid between the pure striped bass and the white bass. As seen in the image below, hybrid can be distinguished from pure striper by the broken horizontal stripes going down the side of the body. Pure striped bass have solid lines from head to tail fin.
In addition to the differences in stripe patterns, hybrid striped bass also tend to have a deeper body (from dorsal fin to ventral fin; back to belly). Pure striped bass are more slender and skinnier.
Size-wise, hybrid striped bass are fast-growing but typically max out in length midway between its parents; a 10- or 12-pounder is considered a great catch!
Hybrid striped bass are known for aggressive feeding habits which makes them highly sought-after by anglers. Often schooling by the thousands, these stocked fish surface feed on local baitfish found in Wallenpaupack such as alewife. Often called “breaking”, this surface feeding makes the fish visible and easy to catch on a wide array of lures and baits. Popular lures include casting spoons, buck-tail jigs, soft-body plastic fish replicas, and inline spinners.
Pure Striped Bass
The striped bass has a slimmer profile, more streamlined than a striped bass hybrid, until it reaches a weight of five to 10 pounds, when its body becomes heavy-looking. The sides are silvery to pale silvery-green, shading to white on the belly. There are seven or eight distinct (unbroken) dark stripes that run laterally on the side of the body. Young striped bass do not have dark lateral stripes, but instead have dusky bars.
Pure striped bass catches in the 15- to 20-pound range are not uncommon in Pennsylvania. In fact, the Pennsylvania state records both for marine and landlocked striped bass are over 50 pounds!
Even landlocked striped bass instinctively migrate upstream in the spring to spawn, traveling into the mouths of large freshwater rivers. Water temperature signals spawning time, with some spawning occurring at 55 degrees, but most at 60 to 67 degrees.
In lakes, pure striped bass move according to temperature and dissolved oxygen in the lake favoring cooler arms within the body of water during the hot summer. Striped bass feed on just about anything alive that is available. Young striped bass eat microcrustaceans, or zooplankton, and midge larvae. As they grow, their diet changes to other fish. As adults, striped bass live in roving schools, feeding mostly at night.
So, What’s in Lake Wallenpaupack?
The Pennsylvania Fish and Boat Commission stocks pure and hybrid striped bass and has been since 2000. On record, they’ve stocked over 46 million pure striped bass fingerlings and fry and over 226,000 hybrid fingerling (source).
Think twice about keeping your catch!
Both Hybrid and Pure striped bass are functionally sterile, meaning reproduction is uncommon. This trait allows biologists the ability to manage striped bass populations based on available forage without the risk of overpopulating waterways.
Stocked fingerlings typically reach legal length (20”) by the end of their fourth growing season!
2015 Pennsylvania Fish & Boat Commission Biologist Report of Lake Wallenpaupack
Examples from Local Anglers
Pure Striped BassHybrid Striped Bass Mike SwingleMike Swingle Jeff AntellJeff Antell John Cook Joe Kreylin Will Hazimof Kevin Carr Greg Edwards
One of the principal elements of ammunition that you should be aware of is muzzle velocity. This is the speed at which the bullet is traveling when it leaves the barrel of your gun, measured in feet per second (ft/s) or meters per second (m/s).
Whether your ammunition is subsonic or supersonic determines to a significant degree how quietly or audibly the bullet travels through the air.
Subsonic vs. Supersonic Ammunition
When you fire a cartridge, the propellant charge burns, generating high-pressure expanding gases that drive the bullet through the barrel. These powder gases are the primary source of a firearm’s report (the sound of the gunshot.)
When you ask, “What is subsonic ammo?” the answer is simple. If the bullet exceeds the speed of sound, thereby breaking the sound barrier, it’s supersonic. If, however, the bullet leaves the muzzle at a speed slower than the speed of sound, it’s subsonic.
Why Does This Matter?
Whether your ammunition is subsonic or supersonic is important because when a bullet breaks the sound barrier, it creates a miniature sonic boom.
You may be familiar with this phenomenon if you’ve ever witnessed a supersonic jet fly overhead and cause a sound similar to a thunderclap. The sonic boom produced by a bullet can’t cause the same level of disruption and is more akin to the crack of a bullwhip — which also creates a sonic boom. When your priority is reducing the report of your firearm to a minimum, this requires the use of subsonic ammunition.
Suppressor Use
The sound of a gunshot can cause permanent hearing loss, even with infrequent exposure, and comprises several variables. Many shooters use sound suppressors, also known as silencers, to reduce the risk to the shooter and bystanders.
If you own or are interested in owning a sound suppressor, the question “What’s subsonic ammo?” is an important one to answer. A suppressor can only moderate the sound of the gunshot at the muzzle by slowing and cooling the powder gases. Once the bullet leaves the suppressor and enters the air, the suppressor’s job is done. To optimize the functionality of a sound suppressor and render your firearm as quiet as possible, you should select ammunition that is reliably subsonic.
Subsonic Ammo
What constitutes subsonic ammunition depends on several factors. The speed of sound is not a fixed value. It varies according to environmental factors, such as ambient temperature and barometric pressure.
The higher the temperature, the higher the speed of sound. Likewise, the colder the temperature, the lower the speed of sound. For example, at 68° F, the speed of sound is approximately 1,125 feet per second. At 32°F, this drops to 1,086 feet per second.
Increasing to 100°F, the speed of sound changes to 1,159 ft/s. The latter speed corresponds to the muzzle velocity of many standard-pressure 9×19mm Parabellum loads using 124-grain bullets. However, all of these velocities are considerably higher than standard pressure .45 ACP using 185-, 200-, and 230-grain bullets.
Subsonic 9mm loads usually substitute heavier bullets — 147-150 grains — to reduce the muzzle velocity to approximately 1,000 ft/s to avoid causing additional noise. The original 230-gr. .45 ACP ball load achieves a muzzle velocity of between 830 and 860 ft/s in an M1911A1 subsonic at all temperatures that a person is likely to face.
Due to fluctuations in the speed of sound according to environmental factors, it’s essential that you choose ammunition that generates muzzle velocities sufficiently below the threshold to take full advantage of sound-suppressor technology. Ammunition uniformity is also worth monitoring.
Cartridges from the same lot do not demonstrate 100%-consistent muzzle velocities from shot to shot. You should account for this lack of uniformity and determine if you can, the extent of the variance from one round to another.
Supersonic Ammo for Suppressors
While supersonic loads will not be as quiet as subsonic loads when using a suppressor, that doesn’t mean that you can’t use them. The primary function of a suppressor is to reduce, not eliminate, the sound of the gunshot. If your priority when using a suppressor is to mask your location, the miniature sonic boom won’t reveal your position to a game animal or adversary — it’s directionless.
Rifles
Rifle ammunition often uses high-velocity loads that far exceed the sound speed to achieve flat trajectories, long-range accuracy, and satisfactory terminal performance. Suppressing rifles poses a special challenge because, unlike handguns, rifles need to shoot far.
In self-loading rifle actions that use gas pressure, modifications to the weapon may be necessary to cycle reliably using comparatively low-pressure subsonic ammunition. In the AR-15 platform, this may include changing the buffer assembly.
An example of a suppressor-optimized rifle caliber is the .300 AAC Blackout. This cartridge is available in both subsonic and supersonic loads for this purpose. In its supersonic form, it’s an intermediate cartridge capable of outperforming the 7.62×39mm Soviet. Its subsonic form delivers heavy bullets, some exceeding 200 grains, at a slow enough speed to match pistol ammo.
Suppressor-Specific
Whether you need subsonic or supersonic ammunition will depend on whether you intend to run a suppressor. If the answer is no, you can, under most circumstances, simply use standard loads in your firearms — whether it’s subsonic or supersonic will be less critical. In 9mm, most loads are supersonic, whereas most .45 ACP loads are the opposite. The .40 S&W cartridge is available in both, as are many other handgun cartridges.
Protect Your Hearing and Conceal Your Position
Subsonic ammunition can seriously improve your performance with a sound suppressor, whether in a rifle or a handgun. However, if you don’t intend to use a suppressor, the benefits of selecting subsonic ammunition are limited. Your gunshots will be somewhat quieter. But you still need to wear hearing protection.
You can also check:
Ammo 101: Types and Characteristics (See Full Article)
The fleshing knife is a key component to most fur sheds. If you’re fleshing muskrats, mink, marten and weasels, you can simply use a butter knife, or a small pelt scraper. But if you’ve got any amount of meat and fat to clean off a pelt, you need a fleshing knife.
Fleshing knives come in a variety of shapes and sizes, and a wide range of price points. The very low end, entry level fleshing knives cost around $15-25. Why so cheap? They’re simply a piece of mild steel with a handle on each end. Unlike the better knives, they’re only one sided, meaning you can do a lot of pushing, but little to no cutting unless you sharpen the convex side on your own. They also typically come unsharpened, and don’t sharpen very easily. They can get the job done, and are great for fleshing a few pelts a season, but they require a whole lot of work and will wear a guy out pretty quick trying to do much fleshing. A number of different companies make these knives, some with brand names and some without. Aside from a lack of ergonomics, the entry level fleshing knives don’t have the quality steel that will take a sharp edge and hold it. Sure, you can sharpen them, but they’ll go dull pretty quick, and won’t cut or push nearly as well. Still, if you need a fleshing knife in a pinch, or you only flesh the occasional pelt, one of these will save you a few bucks.
There’s a quick jump, both in price and quality, between the low end and high end fleshing knives – without much in between. Instead of paying less than $30, you’ll be well north of $60 for a good knife. And in my opinion, it’s well worth the added investment. I remember my disbelief when I tried my first good quality knife, a Necker 600, after spending years trying to flesh beavers with the low end knives. It was incredible. One side for pushing, and a razor edge on the other for cutting the tough spots. The high quality steel blade didn’t dull a bit, even after fleshing 20 beavers. In addition to steel quality, the ergonomic shape was easier on the hands and arms, and the knife had a level of flex to it that made for smooth strokes and less tiring. I swore I’d never go back to an entry level knife. If you can afford it, get a Necker, or equivalent fleshing knife like the Wiebe Elite or the Au Sable Superior.
In addition to the low and high end standard knives, there are a number of other styles that some folks prefer. Sheffield and Green English are a bit different style of knife, with a much wider double-edged blade. They come factory sharpened, and lots of folks like them. The Green English is available at a similar price point to the Necker, and the Sheffield is kind of the high end of the high end product – hand crafted in England with the best quality steel.
A relative newcomer to the market, the Caribou fleshing knife has had some really great reviews recently as well. The big time beaver trappers I know who have used it say it has a thinner, more flexible blade than the Necker, and they really like the precision it affords. Check it out!
Unless you’re a skilled clean skinner or one of those guys who fleshes beaver pelts with a small knife over his knee, you need a fleshing knife in the fur shed. It’s as important as the beam, and you certainly get what you pay for. The low end knives are a dime a dozen, and will get you by in a pinch, but a good fleshing knife that’s comfortable and high performing is worth every penny you spend on it. It’s an item that will last for many years, and pays for itself with every pelt you put up.
Hornady recently announced the newest cartridge in its Precision Rifle Cartridge series of long-range shooting superstars — the 7mm PRC. Directly on the heels of Hornady’s announcement, Savage Arms revealed its own plans to expand several of its most popular rifle models to include hunt-ready options chambered in Hornady’s newest long-action cartridge.
“We’re thrilled to get these 7mm PRC additions into the hands of Savage fans and shooters everywhere,” said Beth Shimanski, director of marketing at Savage Arms, in a release. “With Savage’s heritage for proven accuracy, these rifles are designed for top performance and match grade accuracy, putting challenging shots and the biggest game in your reach.”
Savage will have several of its factory hunting rifles chambered in 7mm PRC available by the end of the year, including the bolt-action 110 Ultralite, 110 High Country, and 110 Apex Hunter XP, as well as the straight-pull Impulse Big Game and Impulse Mountain Hunter rifles.
Savage’s 7mm PRC rifles all feature barrels with a 1:8” twist rate, ideal for stabilizing long, heavy-for-caliber, high BC bullets. Savage claims their models can pitch 180-grain bullets from a 24-inch barrel at a pretty impressive 3,000 fps.
Shooters can also do a barrel swap on any existing long-action rifle with a .540-inch bolt face, like the 7mm Rem Mag or .300 Win Mag, to accommodate the new cartridge.
Shooting long, high BC .284 caliber projectiles, the cutting-edge 7mm PRC slides perfectly into the gap between 6mm PRC and .300 PRC.
With a slightly shorter case length but the same overall length as the 7mm Rem Mag, the PRC has plenty of headroom for taller, sleeker, more aerodynamic bullets. The design makes the cartridge compatible with the absolute best-performing long-range bullets in production without having to modify your magazine.
The 7mm PRC performs best out of fast-twisting barrels. One turn every eight inches stabilizes the longer, heavier bullets to cut through practically any atmospheric condition. With just over 17 inches of drop at 400 yards, these cartridges leave plenty of wiggle room when shooting unknown distances. Plus, the 7mm bullets will still be packing plenty of power for dropping muleys, elk, sheep, and moose well beyond that range.
Yes, this is a magnum cartridge. However, as far as magnums go, the recoil on this one is surprisingly manageable. It is relatively comparable to the 7mm Rem Mag and definitely milder than the .300 Win Mag.
GOOD GEAR – Want To Know What Liberty Tastes Like, Try the BRCC Freedom Roast
What Hornady Has to Offer
Hornady is currently offering the 7mm PRC in three different factory loads.
Target shooters will appreciate Hornady’s Match load, featuring 180-grain ELD-M bullets with a freakishly high BC of .796 (G1). The ELD-M projectile is currently one of the flattest-shooting bullets on the face of the planet.
Hornady also offers its Outfitter line with 160-grain CX expanding copper-alloy bullets for big-game hunters and their Precision Hunter loads. Topped with 175-grain ELD-X, Precision Hunter features a heat shield tip that resists the high temperature generated by the cartridge’s blistering speeds.
Hornady also loads its 7mm PRC cartridges with temperature-stable, magnum-speed propellants for consistent velocity and longer barrel life.
RELATED – Daniel Defense Suppressors Finally Introduced With 3 Rifle Models
Crossing an alligator’s path in your own yard is, to put it mildly, not a pleasant experience. If it has already happened to you, then you know what I’m talking about. It’s a potentially dangerous situation, especially when it comes unexpectedly.
According to a study from Duke University (source) large predators, like alligators, are moving into unexpected areas that were former hunting grounds until humans have been taken over. Therefore, protecting your home from those animals is more current than ever.
So, how can you keep alligators away? Here’s a quick answer:
The first step to keep alligators out of your yard and pool is to eliminate all the things that might attract them. As a second step, put up a sturdy fence. That will effectively keep alligators off your property. Installing a pool enclosure is also a good idea, however, beware of natural alligator repellents.
Read on for the details.
If you live in a climate where meeting an alligator (or a crocodile) is a real concern (like South Carolina, Florida, or Louisiana), it’s a reasonable decision to make the necessary precautions to keep them away from your house. In this article, I’ll show you the most effective ways you can keep alligators out of your house, pool, and yard, so it is one less thing you have to worry about.
How fast can alligators run on land? Can you outrun them? Find the answer in this article.
Alligators usually visit your yard for a reason: they look for food, water, and sometimes shelter. So the first thing you want to do is make your yard unattractive for them. For this reason, eliminate all kinds of food (including garbage) that alligators might have access to from your yard. Never store leftovers in the open air and don’t forget to clean up after barbecuing.
The next step is to eliminate clutter: if your yard is clean and tidy there’s less chance that an alligator (or snakes) will use it as a temporary shelter.
Let’s move on to water. Alligators love water, so pools are definitely attractive factors for them. Of course, preventing alligators from having access to your swimming pool is much harder to accomplish than eliminating clutter or garbage from the yard.
Using a standard pool cover will keep smaller animals out of your pool but it’s often useless against larger critters, like alligators (not to mention that if the pool is often used, it can be a tedious job to cover it every evening). You can find both solid and mesh safety pool covers on the market but they’re usually for winterizing purposes and not suitable for daily use.
A built-in automatic pool cover can provide real protection but it’s pretty expensive and sometimes it’s not easy to add it to an existing pool. However, if you’re just planning to build a pool, I definitely suggest you consider this option. All-Safe sells pretty reliable and durable automatic pool covers that are very comfortable to use.
If installing an automatic pool cover is not an option for you, just continue reading: there are other methods to keep alligators away from your pool and I’ll show you all of them.
2. Put Up a Sturdy Fence
Will a fence keep alligators out of your yard?Fencing, when done properly, is definitely one of the best ways to keep alligators off your property. However, if you’re about to install physical barriers, like a fence, it’s essential to do it the right way so that alligators can’t get through it.
First of all, you have to bury the fence at least 1.5-2 feet into the ground to prevent alligators from digging under it. You can improve security by installing concrete footers, although it’s not an absolute necessity. Next, you want to make sure they can’t climb over the fence. You may wonder, “Can alligators climb fences?” Just have a look at this video:
Alligators can climb chain link fences.Period. Some of them can climb a 5 feet high chain link fence without any major difficulty (however it’s not typical).
So how can you make a chain link fence alligator-proof? Height is important but as you can see, in itself, it doesn’t always stop alligators. The solution is to install a fence that is at least 5 feet high and the top of it is tilted outwards (at a 45-degree angle). It’s also called an overhanging fence. If some adventurous gators try to climb it and reach the top of the fence, they won’t be able to climb over it thanks to the angled part. You can reinforce the top of the fence with barbed wires.
Instead of a chain link fence, you can put up a wooden or aluminum (or concrete) fence to keep alligators away from your yard. They can’t climb an aluminum or a wooden fence with a smooth surface if it’s high enough because there’s nothing they can use to support their weight while climbing it.
If separating your pool is all you need and want the least obtrusive method, then consider installing a fence made of thick and durable safety glass. It will prevent gators from accessing your pool while nothing will block your view. Just keep in mind that glass fences require more maintenance (cleaning) than regular ones.
I highly suggest that you consider some kind of fencing if there’s a pond, lake, or canal close to your backyard. Those are the habitats where alligators spend most of their time and if you live close, it’s much more likely that you’ll cross each other’s path.
Electric Fences
Electric fences are another solution: they can deter and keep alligators off your property effectively. One of their major advantages over chain link, wooden, and aluminum fences is the faster and easier installation. Also, they’re much less obtrusive than standard fences. The disadvantage is obvious: if someone or your pet touches the fence, it won’t be a pleasant experience.
Usually, a single-strand electric fence can provide sufficient protection against gators (but it’s not necessarily effective against other predators). The strand should run just a few inches above the ground so that alligators can’t pass under without touching it.
Electric fences are not difficult to set up and their operation is usually inexpensive.The vast majority of energizers (the unit you should connect the wires to) are high-voltage, low-amperage, and low-impedance. This means that the current will flow through the wires in pulses and due to the low amperage it won’t cause any permanent harm to those animals and humans who encounter the fence.
Modern electric fences with an approved energizer are pretty safe to use: despite being rather popular items, electric fences account for less than one serious injury per year worldwide (source). However, don’t forget that we’re talking about electricity. Keep toddlers and children away from electric fences and make sure you place warning signs on the fence.
Before building any kind of physical barrier around your property, don’t forget to check if you need a building permit for it.
3. Install a Pool Enclosure
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Installing a pool enclosure (also called a pool cage) is an effective way to keep alligators off your pool. While being one of the most expensive solutions, it has many advantages besides securing your pool from gators: it provides a certain degree of protection against harmful UV rays, helps you to keep the pool cleaner by keeping bugs and debris out, and extends your swim time by allowing you to use the pool independently from the weather.
On the other hand, a pool cage reduces the green areas and needs regular maintenance (like removing mildew from the enclosure). Also, a fence around your yard may give you a better experience as it gives you a greater sense of freedom and lets you enjoy your whole yard.
As always, make sure you check your local building code if you want a pool enclosure in your yard.
If you want to improve water quality and take pool safety to the next level, have a look at our article about the best alternatives to chlorine to avoid unpleasant odors, dangerous byproducts, skin and eye irritation, and other adverse effects.
4. Natural Alligator Repellents – Do They Work?
You won’t find any alligator repellent in the stores for a very simple reason: none are registered. However, you may have heard of different homemade repellents. One of the most popular methods is mixing humane urine with ammonia and spraying the mixture on the areas where alligators can enter your yard (practically around your property). The theory behind this method is that the smell of the mixture resembles the scent of predators so it may deter alligators.
There are two major disadvantages of using the combination of urine and ammonia as an alligator repellent. First, it smells terrible not only for alligators but for humans (and pets) too. Also, keep in mind that ammonia is a hazardous substance that can cause severe injuries in high concentrations.
Second, it’s not a reliable method: in certain cases, it may work but there’s no guarantee it will deter alligators. That’s why I don’t recommend using it, however, if you don’t mind the smell and don’t have kids and pets you can try it as a complementary method.
5. Alligator Traps
If you want to get rid of alligators, you may wonder if setting up a trap is a reasonable solution. First, it’s useful to know that if you want to use traps to catch alligators, you must have a permit because without it setting up an alligator trap is considered to be illegal. On the other hand, trapping alligators is not without danger: it does require expertise, experience, and proper equipment.
If there’s an alligator in your property or if you’re concerned about safety because gators appear more and more frequently in your neighborhood, call a professional. The state of Florida, for instance, has a program called SNAP (Statewide Nuisance Alligator Program) that was created to help you out when in trouble with alligators. You just have to call them, and they will dispatch one of their nuisance alligator trappers.
Putting It All Together
As you can see, when it comes to keeping alligators out of your yard and pool, there are only a few reliable methods that really improve safety. If keeping gators off your property is a top priority for you, then you can’t avoid installing some kind of sturdy physical barrier around your yard or pool.
Besides fencing, you always want to make sure there are no alligator attractants (like garbage, food, shelter) on your property. Water is essential for gators, so they love to visit homes with a pool. One of the best ways to prevent them from taking a bath in your pool is using an automatic pool cover. If it’s not feasible, you can install a pool enclosure (aka pool cage) or a fence around the pool area.
Every home is different, and sometimes you need personalized guidance. When in doubt, consult with a professional to find the best combination of the available solutions.
When it comes to bass fishing, it’s all about the sport of it. As you almost certainly know, bass anglers are out for a brain-bending hunt for big bass and what they want to eat, an unforgettable fight, and a stellar photo at the end of it.
However, before any bass angler starts to resuscitate their catch and watch it swim back off to fight another day, there’s one important detail that has to be gauged for any of it to mean anything: The size.
Any good fisherman will take plenty of pleasure in simply enjoying a nice fight and lipping a fish, but there’s something about the thrill of reeling in a massive bass after it has jumped all over the surface and put your equipment through the wringer.
Today, we’re going to talk about the top 15 largemouth bass ever caught; including where, when, and how they were caught. Using this information, and of course, building your own skills and intuition as an angler might just help you land the next record-shattering largemouth when you hit the water.
First up is the current world record. This impressive 22.311-lb bass was at Lake Biwa in Japan. This is the largest recorded largemouth bass ever caught, and what makes the catch even more impressive is the low number of largemouth in Japan. This is because they were introduced specifically for sport fishing. After a short time, they were labeled an invasive species, and they’re only found in a few select lakes that have now had their native ecosystems ravaged by the predators.
The angler that pulled this bad boy in is Manabu Kurita. He pulled the lunker in with a Deps Slide Swimmer 175 in 2009 at the age of 32. He has since tied his own record in 2022.
2 – Second Place – Lake Montgomery, Georgia
This one goes way back to 1932 when an angler by the name of George Perry caught a 22.25-lb largemouth at Lake Montgomery in Georgia. What makes this record so special isn’t that it’s a world record. Those are beaten by mere ounces across the fishing community all the time. No, this is special because it was the world record for largemouth bass from 1932 all the way until 2009 when Manabu Kurita nabbed the current world record at Lake Biwa. A little over two decades more, and he would have had a century-long world record. More importantly, this was from before sport fishing was big. It was a way to secure food, and anglers weren’t using the most advanced techniques and equipment back then.
Perry caught the monster on a Creek Chub Fintail Shiner; the only lure he and his friend had at the time of the catch.
3 – Third Place – Castaic Lake, California
This is the third-place record as of this writing, and it was made at Castaic Lake in California on March 12, 1991 by Robert Crupi. This whopper weighed 22.063 pounds, and it was just slightly shy of beating the 1932 record George Perry is famous for. Unlike the other records, Crupi didn’t use lures for this impressive catch. It was just good old-fashioned live bait on a basic float rig.
Being in the top three without using a fancy lure is a huge accomplishment, and you’ll be happy to know that Robert Crupi is still angling in the L.A. area now that he has retired as an LAPD officer.
4 – Castaic Lake, California – Michael Arujo
Another impressive catch was made at Castaic Lake in 1991; just seven days before Robert Crupi broke the 22-lb mark, Michael Arujo had caught a lunker weighing 21.75 pounds. That wasn’t quite close enough to George Perry’s long-standing record, but it was a massive breakthrough for the lake, and it is the fourth largest bass ever caught and officially recorded.
Arujo made the catch of his life with two different bummers attached to it. He was just shy of the world record, and a week after getting lauded for the second largest bass in the world, Robert Crupi came in and knocked him down to third place in the same watering hole. It’s a great catch, but you know that one had to sting a bit.
5 – Lake Dixon, California – Jed Dickerson
This 21.688-lb lunker was, like over half of this list, also caught in the Los Angeles area of California. A trend you’ll be noticing pretty quickly with the world record list.
While the bass is just shy of the 22-lb mark, it stood out for its unique spotted pattern and acquired the nickname “Dottie”. Dottie was caught in 2003.
6 – Lake Casitas, California – Raymond Easley
Raymond Easley’s 21.2-lb largemouth turned heads in 1980 as the first bass to breach the 20-lb range since George Perry’s legendary catch. While Easley’s catch isn’t the thing of legend, it is still a record holder. It’s the largest largemouth bass caught on an 8-lb line as of the time of this writing. It’s also worth noting that he wasn’t bass fishing at the time. He was teaching less experienced friends how to catch crawfish, and he happened to get lucky.
7 – Castaic Lake, California – Robert Crupi
Yes, the third-place world record holder is actually known for multiple catches. Just a year before he came close to dethroning George Perry’s age-old record, Robert Crupi caught a 21.1-lb largemouth bass at Castaic Lake, California; not far from where he’d later catch the 22 pounder he’s known for. Again, he’s one of the few world-record anglers to use live bait for their catches, and he’s one of the few with two records to his name.
8 – Miramar Reservoir, California – Dave Zimmerlee
Dave Zimmerlee caught a 20.938-lb largemouth at the Miramar Reservoir in California in 1973. This was not quite as close as Crupi’s catch in 91, but it was the first catch to get somewhat close in 40 years. Not only that, but it was the California state record and held its position for a fair amount of time.
9 – Castaic Lake, California – Leo Torres
Yet another Castaic Lake record, this catch by Leo Torres happened shortly before Crupi’s first 21-lb catch. Unfortunately, it wouldn’t last long as it was still in the 20-lb range at 20.86 pounds. Still, it was the catch of a lifetime shared by few anglers, and it’s yet another testament to the high catch potential of Castaic Lake.
10 – Lake Dixon, California – Mike Long
This 2001 catch was made at Lake Dixon, California by Mike Long. The catch was 20.75 pounds; just mere ounces behind the area’s top records, and it’s one of the top records at Dixon’s watering hole.
11 – Lake Hodges, California – Gene Dupras
This is Lake Hodges first appearance on this list, and it happens to be its largemouth bass record. Gene Dupras boated a 20.25-lb largemouth in 1985 on artificial lures and put the watering hole’s name on the map. While this is on the lower end of the 20’s, it’s still an important catch in the bass fishing world.
12 – Miramar Reservoir, California – Johnny Garduno
This 20.25-lb catch by Johnny Garduno in 1990 is tied with the number 11 spot placed by Gene Dupras, but it doesn’t hold the reservoir record as that was accomplished in 1973 with a 20.983-lb largemouth. Still it is the catch of a lifetime for the angler, and it’s just ounces off of the watering hole’s record; proving big bass aren’t just a fluke at Miramar.
13 – Big Fish Lake, Florida – Fritz Friebel
Florida is known for some good bass fishing, along with some unique species of bass besides largemouth. So, while this is the one and only largemouth record from Florida on our top 15 list, it’s worth noting that the state pops up frequently with longer, more lenient lists.
This one was caught by Fritz Friebel in 1923, and at 20.123 pounds, it held the world record until George Perry set his nearly 80-year-long record.
Again, keep in mind that sport fishing wasn’t really a thing back then, and neither George Perry or Fritz Friebel would be considered professionals nowadays. They were just good old boys enjoying a bit of fishing. That’s an important detail for later.
14 – Lake Mission Viejo, California – George Coniglio
This 2006 record isn’t the biggest in the world, country, state of California, or even Los Angeles county, but it is the Lake Mission Viejo record at 19.7 pounds. George Coniglio still holds the lake record, and there’s no denying that, even compared to the 20+ pound fish on this list, no angler would brush off a 19-pound hog.
15 – Castaic Lake, California – Mark Balloid
What’s a better way to finish our list off than to return to yet another 1990 beast from Castaic Lake? On March 30, 1990, just shortly after Robert Crupi’s first record fish, Mark Balloid caught a 19.5-lb lunker that, while still a bit smaller than Crupi’s catches at the lake, was a massive accomplishment.
How to Use This Information
Now, besides learning about some amazing largemouth, what good is this list for you, the average fisherman? Well, as it turns out, there’s quite a bit you can learn from it.
Here are the points we believe stand out the most.
It’s Not Restricted to Gatekeeping Pros
Did you notice that two of the earliest world-record catches, and several of the more modern catches, weren’t made by professionals on $40,000 bass boats with $700+ rods? Nope. They were caught by regular fishermen who, sometimes, weren’t even trying to catch record-breaking bass.
The point to understand the most from this is that the record holders involved knew how to react to the hard fights those 19 to 22-lb fish were putting them through, and even with the 1920s and 30’s equipment, they were able to work those basses back to their boats. George Perry, the man with the longest-lasting world record, and who is still in second place globally, caught his lunker in a homemade boat with the only lure he had on him. He stated that he wasn’t worried about losing the fish, but he didn’t want to lose his Creek Chub.
You don’t need a second mortgage and a very angry wife to pick up the big fish. You just have to know what you’re doing when they bite.
Water Counts
What makes the current record so impressive isn’t just that it broke George Perry’s almost century-old record. It’s that it happened in Japan where largemouth isn’t even native.
If you noticed, up until that point, the entire top 15 list is comprised almost entirely of Californian lakes and reservoirs, and a couple of names pop up several times to dominate the list. Notably, Castaic Lake shows up a lot.
If you want to catch big bass, you can do that anywhere there is bass. Kurita proved that by shattering George Perry’s long-standing record. However, your chances are quite a bit higher if you find the waters known for producing such abnormal bass specimens.
Unfortunately, that same concept can lead to higher pressure from other fishermen. Everyone wants the world record with sport fishing, and you won’t be the only one running to a well-known watering hole.
Pressure Increases, and Catches Go Down
If you notice, the predominant body of water on this list has basically all of its notable entrees set in the early 90’s. Not a single Castaic Lake record of real notability has cropped up since.
That doesn’t mean big fish aren’t found there, but it given its history of producing jaw-dropping trophy bass and the drop off, it’s safe to assume that “something” has put a damper on what the lake is producing.
That damper is typically waves of fishermen, both responsible and irresponsible, attempting to get in on the trophy-sized action.
This increases pressure and makes fish more finicky, and if the water is being overfished or the fish aren’t being released properly, numbers can drop; effectively ruining what the hole was known for.
Keep that in mind, and don’t always hunt your next trophy at a certain hole just because it’s famous.
Many people love meat because it’s a good source of protein. Do you need ideas on the tastiest meat dish for your lunch or special event? You’ll never go wrong with well-cooked deer brisket, as it has a spicy flavor when you serve it hot.
The brisket on a deer lies at the bottom of a deer’s chest, in front of the ribcage. Removing a deer’s brisket involves removing the shoulders, backstrap, and tenderloins and cutting through the cartilage.
The rest of this article will:
Delve deeper to explain where to find deer brisket.
Discuss whether you must sear a deer’s brisket.
How to remove brisket off a deer.
Where to find the best meat on a deer.
You’ll also learn the differences between venison backstrap and the tenderloin and what part of a deer is best for steaks.
Though tough, brisket is one of the most delicious meats in mammals, including deer. While butchering a deer to get the brisket may seem like a painstaking process, it’s achievable with the right tools and skills.
You can get brisket off a deer even though it’s smaller and leaner than a cow’s brisket. Using a sharp knife, you should remove it by cutting off the meat between the forelimbs on the deer’s chest through the cartilage. Also, cut out all fat up to the backbone.
Since a deer’s brisket is smaller than other big animals, removing it is a challenge to most people. However, when you follow the right butchering procedure, you can get the brisket off the carcass.
You can make the best fajitas, burgers, or sausages with this piece of meat or trim and grill it under higher heat.
Related Best Knife for Processing Deer | Hint: You Need Two.
Should Brisket Be Seared?
Brisket should be seared because it is essential to build up the meat’s flavor. However, you need to prepare it adequately before searing it and let it slow-cook in the oven or pan. Slow cooking makes the meat tender and easier for you to slice it afterward.
Searing venison brisket is a common preparation method in most traditional dishes as it adds flavor to the meat. Searing involves cooking the meat’s surface under high temperatures until it caramelizes, otherwise known as forming a brown crust.
Adding some oil creates contact between the brisket and the cooking surface.
Before you sear the brisket, trim away the fat pad on the brisket’s outer surface. A large sharp knife will come in handy during this preparation step.
Then, marinate it using salt, pepper, or other spices a day before you cook it.
Moreover, it’s important to remember that deer meat is generally tough, and storing it for a couple of days enables the aging process, which will make the meat tender, including the brisket. Do this before starting your cooking process, and you’ll have tender briskets.
After aging, trimming off fat, and marinating the deer’s brisket, you can now sear it.
If you notice that there are still some grey spots on the meat after searing, it means one side of the brisket didn’t cook well. To avoid these spots, you should ensure that you flip both sides to burn evenly.
How To Remove Deer Brisket
You might be thinking about getting a professional butcher to remove the brisket from your deer, right? However, there’s an easier way to do this in the comfort of your home.
Removing a deer’s brisket is one of the final meat-cutting steps of butchering.
After you’re through with the major butchering procedure, you can remove the brisket in a slab using the flat of your knife. Cut the meat carefully against the lower-chest region, trimming off the cod fat and tallow.
To get to the deer’s brisket, you have to butcher cut major parts. Here are the steps:
Cut and pull the shoulders from the torso of the deer to expose the cut zone which your knife will pass through.
Pull the front leg away from the torso, and with your knife’s blade parallel to the ribcage, cut the hinge area.
Remove the backstraps and the tenderloin, but trim away the excess fat layer first. To do this, find the hip bone and cut under this bone to the backbone on both sides. Loosen and get the meat off by ensuring that your knife is close to the bone.
Cut through the ribs down to the backbone. You’ll find the brisket on the outer surface of the ribs. Cut it off while your knife’s blade is against the lower-front chest region and remove any cod fat.
Check out this YouTube video that shows the process of removing a brisket:
Where Is the Best Meat on a Deer?
After butchering a deer, you’ll want to get the most out of the process. Many people go for the bigger and popular venison chunks. But where’s the best meat on a deer?
The backstraps and tenderloins are the best meat cuts of a deer. These parts are tender and will give you a succulent and delicious meal. Other preferred parts include the hindquarters, rump, and chucks.
Backstraps and tenderloins are a favorite to most venison lovers as they are tender and easy to cook. The hindquarters have a variety of uses, as you can use them as steak, in stews, kebabs, or jerky.
There are many other recipes for preparing this dish that you can try out on your own.
Is Venison Backstrap the Same As Tenderloin?
Differentiating between the venison backstrap and tenderloin can be a bit confusing.
A backstrap isn’t the same as a tenderloin. The venison backstrap is the meat along a deer’s spine on the outer part of the backbone. However, tenderloin sits beneath the spine, inside the abdominal cavity along the backbone.
Tenderloin is about 10” to 12” (25.4 to 30.48 cm) smaller than the backstrap but very delicious.
What Part of a Deer Is Best for Steaks?
Are you a steak lover? Well, you can make the best steaks from some parts of venison.
The hindquarters of the deer is best for steaks. The top and bottom rounds have extensive muscles but also have tender sections. They produce the best steaks and cuts for other dishes. Venison hindquarters are large, with cuts for various uses.
You can get the best steak from these parts in young or older deer. However, the bottom rounds are more tender than the top ones.
Final Words
You can get brisket off a deer by following the correct butchering process all by yourself. It may not be a very easy cut to make, but it’s doable. Once you have the brisket, you can leave it for a few days to age and then prepare it for cooking by marinating first.
Searing the brisket is also a great idea as it helps to lock in the flavors.
For more, check out The 5 Best Ways to Preserve Meat in the Wild.
What are the best 300 Win Mag rifles for hunting in 2024?
Originally designed in the 1960s by taking the legendary 375 Holland & Holland Magnum case and necking it down to shoot a .30 caliber bullet, the .300 Winchester Magnum remains one of the most popular centerfire rifle cartridges in use today. Not surprisingly, many companies like Browning, Christensen Arms, Remington, and Winchester produce a wide range of 300 Win Mag rifles for hunting deer, black bear, elk, moose, and other big game animals.
Essentially duplicating the performance of the old 300 H&H Magnum cartridge in a standard length action rifle, the 300 Win Mag was an almost instant hit among hunters and shooters in North America. Known for being relatively flat shooting, having great accuracy potential, and for retaining lots of kinetic energy at extended range, versatility is the name of the game with the 300 Win Mag.
In addition to use with competitive shooters and even in a few sniper rifles (Chris Kyle famously used the cartridge with a lot of success in Iraq), the 300 Win Mag is especially well suited for hunting a wide range of big game at short, medium, and even long range.
However, not all 300 Win Mag rifles are created equal and different situations require different characteristics in a rifle.
For instance, a heavier rifle with a longer barrel will work great for hunting whitetail deer or pronghorn in more open country that’s relatively flat or gently rolling. On the other hand, that same rifle would not be a lot of fun to carry high up in the Rocky Mountains hunting mule deer or elk.
Fortunately, there’s a wide variety of 300 Win Mag rifles well suited for just almost any big game hunting situation from Alaska to Zimbabwe. So, regardless of whether you’re planning on hunting moose and caribou in Alaska or Canada, elk in Colorado or Montana, or some other big game hunting adventure elsewhere in the world, there is pretty much guaranteed to be something for everyone on the list below of the best 300 Win Mag rifles for hunting.
In this article, I’m going to show you the best 300 Win Mag rifles for hunting elk, moose, deer, pronghorn, black bear and all sorts of other big game. I’ll also go over the pros and cons of each individual rifle and help you select the right one for your specific hunting situation.
Before we get started, here’s a disclaimer: some of the links below are affiliate links. This means I will earn a small commission if you make a purchase. This commission comes at no extra cost to you. This helps support the blog and allows me to continue to create free content that’s useful to hunters like yourself. Thanks for your support.
It’s also important to realize the rifle is just a single part of the equation. Even the best rifle won’t be of much use without a high quality scope and without appropriate ammunition. Learn more about what I consider the best scope, ammunition, and sling options for the 300 Win Mag at the links below.
Best 300 Win Mag Ammo For Hunting Elk, Deer, & Other Big Game
9 Reasons The Leupold VX-5 HD Is A Great Hunting Scope
11 Reasons The Leupold VX-6 HD Is An Even Better Hunting Scope
Best Hunting Rifle Slings For 2024
Now that we’ve got all that out of the way, let’s get started.
Browning X-Bolt
The Browning X-Bolt Speed is an outstanding 300 Win Mag rifle for hunters wanting a lightweight and easy to carry rifle that’s capable of great accuracy and has a reasonable price tag to boot.
Browning X-Bolt rifles in general are well regarded by many in the hunting community for their nice trigger, good accuracy, and for their very short 60° bolt lift that’s incredibly fast to cycle.
The X-Bolt Speed has all those characteristics along with a few other nice touches that set it apart from the rest of the pack like a composite stock with an Ovix camouflage pattern, a cerakote finish for corrosion resistance, a great recoil pad, and a 26” threaded barrel with a muzzle brake.
Tipping the scales at just under 7 pounds, this rifle is also pretty lightweight and easy to carry. However, the recoil pad and included muzzle brake will both reduce perceived recoil for the user. That muzzle brake may also be removed and replaced with a thread protector (included) or a suppressor.
The Browning X-Bolt does not come with a formal accuracy guarantee, but these rifles in general are known for outstanding accuracy right out of the box and 1 MOA groups with good quality ammo are not uncommon.
All in all, this is an excellent 300 Win Mag rifle with plenty of capability and a reasonable price tag. It should be right at home up in the mountains of Colorado pursuing elk or out on the open prairie of Wyoming in search of pronghorn where encounters with game at longer ranges are more common.
Overall Length: 46.75″
Barrel Length: 26″
Length of Pull: 13.625″
Weight: 6lbs 13oz
Rifling Twist Rate: 1:10″
Threaded Barrel: Yes, Muzzle Brake included (M13x0.75 thread pattern).
Magazine Size: 3
Accuracy Guarantee: No
Left Handed Models Available: No, but the X-Bolt Hunter and Medallion are available in a left handed model in 300 Win Mag
MSRP: $1,379
BUY A BROWNING X-BOLT SPEED HERE
Also Available At: Sportsman’s Warehouse
Winchester Model 70 Super Grade
A hunter looking for a 300 Win Mag rifle with a good mix of elegance and functionality would be hard pressed to beat the Winchester Model 70 Super Grade. While a rifle with a synthetic stock and cerakote finish may be very functional, those rifles often don’t look nearly as nice as a rifle with a walnut stock and a blued steel barrel and action.
Jack O’Connor was a noted fan of the Winchester Model 70 and current production Model 70s by the Winchester Repeating Arms Company incorporate a lot of the features and characteristics that hunters like him appreciated in the rifle. These rifles have a pre-64 style controlled round feed with a claw extractor for maximum reliability when feeding a new cartridge and extracting a fired cartridge.
This action type is ideal when hunting dangerous game like brown or grizzly bear where the ability to reload and quickly take a follow-up shot could be the difference between life and death. In my opinion, the best hunting rifles for pursuing dangerous game all have a controlled round feed action like the Model 70.
This rifle also has a fixed magazine using a hinged floorplate (in contrast to the detachable box magazines some rifles use). The Model 70 Super Grade also has an excellent Pachmayr Decelerator Recoil Pad to reduce perceived recoil.
Weighing 8.5 pounds unloaded, this is not an especially heavy or lightweight rifle. It’s a touch on the heavy side, but not excessively so. It wouldn’t be my first choice for a super light mountain rifle, but will work really well in that role.
Instead, I think the Model 70 Super Grade is an excellent 300 Win Mag hunting rifle for someone who wants a very stylish rifle that’s also well suited for a wide range of hunting situations ranging from mule deer and pronghorn all the way up to large game black bear, elk, and moose.
Overall Length: 46.75″
Barrel Length: 26″
Length of Pull: 13.75″
Weight: 8lbs 8oz
Rifling Twist Rate: 1:10″
Threaded Barrel: No
Magazine Size: 3
Accuracy Guarantee: No
Left Handed Models Available: No
MSRP: $1,589
BUY A WINCHESTER MODEL 70 HERE
Also Available At: Sportsman’s Warehouse
Savage 110 Apex Hunter XP
The 110 Apex Hunter XP by Savage Arms is one of the most reasonably priced 300 Winchester Magnum rifles currently available on the market. While Savage had a somewhat checkered reputation at one point, their rifles are generally highly regarded these days.
In fact, some Savage rifles are capable of absolutely tack driving accuracy and are used by lots of hunters with lots of success each year.
The Apex Hunter XP in 300 Win Mag has a 3 round detachable box magazine, a black synthetic stock that may be adjusted for length of pull, a user adjustable AccuTrigger (approximately a 2.5 to 6 pound trigger pull), and comes from the factory with a Vortex Crossfire II scope mounted on the included rail system.
Additionally, the 24-inch barrel is a good balance of long enough for good performance with the 300 Win Mag cartridge, but not so long that the rifle is unwieldy. In fact, the rifle is reasonably lightweight and is about as compact as possible for a rifle in that chambering.
Realize that you will take a small hit to your muzzle velocity by going with a 24″ instead of a 26″ barrel, but that tradeoff is worth it in some situations.
Savage also makes an identical version of the 110 Apex Hunter XP for left handed shooters. So, this rifle is a great choice for someone looking for the best left handed 300 Win Mag rifle.
This is not a high end custom rifle and it lacks a lot of the bells and whistles other, more expensive rifles have. However, the Savage 110 Apex Hunter XP is a very functional rifle that will work well for someone with a smaller budget who wants a good all-around 300 Win Mag hunting rifle.
Overall Length: 44.875″
Barrel Length: 24″
Length of Pull: 13.75″
Weight: 8lbs 1oz
Rifling Twist Rate: 1:10″
Threaded Barrel: No
Magazine Size: 3
Accuracy Guarantee: No
Left Handed Models Available: Yes
MSRP: $709
BUY A SAVAGE 110 APEX HUNTER XP HERE
BUY A LEFT HANDED SAVAGE 110 APEX HUNTER XP HERE
Also Available At: Sportsman’s Warehouse
Tikka T3x Lite
Made in Finland, the Tikka Tx3 Lite is another really well designed, extremely functional rifle. These rifles have an excellent reputation for accuracy, durability, and reliability under really demanding conditions.
I wouldn’t say they’re the absolute best 300 Win Mag rifles available, but they’re still really darn good and are an outstanding value. These Tikka rifles fall into a similar category as the Savage 110 Apex Hunter I just mentioned: no frills, reasonably priced, and very functional.
The Tikka T3x is a little more expensive, but it’s also just a generally nicer rifle. The Tikka is also a little lighter and more compact. It’s also available in a left-handed version. The Tikka also has an adjustable trigger. So once again, the Tikka T3x Lite is a great choice for a southpaw looking for a great left handed 300 Win Mag rifle.
Nothing against the Savage 110, but I really like the Tikka T3x Lite and this is where I’d steer a hunter wanting a great all-around 300 Win Mag hunting rifle that’s available at a reasonable price. There’s a reason why this is such a popular rifle with hunters in Europe as well as North America.
Overall Length: 42.6″
Barrel Length: 24.3″
Length of Pull: 13.75″
Weight: 6lbs 8z
Rifling Twist Rate: 1:10″
Threaded Barrel: Yes (M15x1 thread pattern).
Magazine Size: 3
Accuracy Guarantee: Yes (1 MOA)
Left Handed Models Available: Yes
MSRP: $779
BUY A TIKKA T3x LITE HERE
Also Available At: Sportsman’s Warehouse
Bergara B-14 HMR Wilderness
Bergara is known for producing extremely accurate rifles and very high quality barrels.
The B-14 HMR Wilderness combines those attributes with a high end, mini-chassis molded into the adjustable stock. HMR stands for Hunting and Match Rifle, which is a great description of the capabilities of this particular rifle.
The stock is has an adjustable comb to bring the shooter’s eye in perfect alignment with the scope and is also adjustable for length of pull via spacers in the stock to fit shooters of varying sizes. The stock also includes quick detach flush cups for a sling (and also has regular sling swivels).
The Wilderness Series of rifles use hand-painted camouflage stocks with increased texture and grip. Their actions and barrels are also have a Sniper Grey Cerakote® finish for protection from the elements in harsh weather.
This rifle also has an excellent Bergara Performance Trigger and a 5 round AICS style detachable magazine. Of note, this rifle has one of the largest magazine capacities for any 300 Win Mag rifle (3-4 rounds is typical).
The Bergara B-14 HMR Wilderness 300 Win Mag rifle has a 26″ long #6 Bergara barrel with an omnidirectional and multi-ported muzzle brake to reduce perceived recoil.
Not surprisingly, this rifle is a real shooter and Bergara has a 1 MOA accuracy guarantee with these rifles. Longer barrels will often (though not always) deliver higher muzzle velocities. So that long, 26″ long barrel will also help maximize velocity and downrange performance from the heavy hitting 300 Winchester Magnum cartridge as well.
The downside of this rifle is that it’s on the heavy side at 9.9 pounds.
It will be an outstanding shooting platform for long-range shooting, but won’t be a lot of fun to carry for really long distances in rough terrain. For that reason, those looking for an extremely lightweight 300 Win Mag rifle for mountain hunting should probably look elsewhere.
This is an absolutely perfect 300 Win Mag hunting rifle for those hunting in more open and/or gently rolling terrain where a stable shooting platform and the best long range performance are more important than a lightweight and easy to carry rifle.
Get the Bergara if you want a great rifle with a long effective range. Go with something else if that’s not what you’re looking for.
Overall Length: 47.5″
Barrel Length: 26″
Length of Pull: Adjustable from 12.25-14.5″
Weight: 9.9lbs
Rifling Twist Rate: 1:10″
Threaded Barrel: Yes, Omni Muzzle Brake included (5/8-24″ thread pattern).
Accuracy Guarantee: Yes, 1 MOA with quality factory match grade ammunition
Left Handed Models Available: Yes, the standard Bergara B-14 HMR is available in a left handed model in 300 Win Mag
MSRP: $1,260
BUY A BERGARA HMR WILDERNESS HERE
Also Available At: Sportsman’s Warehouse
Nosler M21
The Bend, Oregon based Nosler Inc. has developed a reputation for producing great ammo over the years. However, Nosler also makes some high end rifles and their M21 is their latest addition to the Nosler rifle brand.
Like their older M48 rifles, the Nosler M21 is designed to provide hunters with a feature rich production rifle with performance approaching those delivered by custom builds.
Nosler partnered with the Mack Brothers from South Dakota to design the M21 action, which is based on the Mack Brothers’ EVO action with a few customizations from Nosler. The rifle uses a one piece, spiral fluted, and Nitride coated bolt made from 4340 Chrome Moly steel. The result is a sleek, lightweight, and corrosion resistant bolt that’s also optimized for reliability under demanding conditions.
The M21 rifle has a crisp, single stage TriggerTech trigger that’s user adjustable from 2.5 to 5 pounds.
All M21 rifles use a Shilen match grade stainless steel barrel that’s hand lapped and comes with a threaded muzzle (thread protector included). Finally, the rifle also uses a McMillan Hunters Edge synthetic carbon fiber stock that’s both lightweight and extremely durable.
The end result is a rifle that’s incredibly accurate (Nosler has a 1 MOA accuracy guarantee with these rifles), reliable, functional, and reasonably lightweight. These rifles also look pretty nice as well.
Weighing just over 7 pounds unloaded and without a scope, this is not an especially lightweight or heavy rifle. Instead, it fits right in that sweet spot where it’s heavy enough to be a good shooting platform without being so heavy that it would be a pain to carry on a hunt in rough terrain.
Those looking for an extremely lightweight 300 Win Mag rifle for mountain hunting or a heavier rifle optimized for really long range shooting should probably look elsewhere.
All things considered though, the Nosler M21 is an outstanding 300 Win Mag rifle for hunting a variety of big game. In fact, this is the rifle I’d recommend for a person looking for a high performance, all-purpose 300 Win Mag hunting rifle with the best combination of reliability, accuracy, and performance under a wide range of possible hunting situations.
Overall Length: 44.5″
Barrel Length: 24″
Length of Pull: 13.5″
Weight: 7.1lbs
Rifling Twist Rate: 1:10″
Threaded Barrel: Yes, thread protector included (5/8-24″ thread pattern).
Magazine Size: 3
Accuracy Guarantee: Yes, 1 MOA with Nosler factory ammunition
Left Handed Models Available: No
MSRP: $2,795
BUY A NOSLER M21 HERE
Also Available At: Sportsman’s Warehouse
Browning Automatic Rifle
Looking for a 300 win mag semi-auto rifle? You don’t have many choices, but the Browning Automatic Rifle (also known as the BAR) is a really good option for those who want an autoloading instead of a bolt action rifle.
Even though they share the same name, this rifle is completely different from the BAR used by American troops in World War II. Modern BARs are designed for hunting use and utilize a short stroke gas piston, a hammer forged barrel, and a 3 round detachable magazine. It’s also drilled and tapped for a scope.
While this semi-automatic rifle is probably not going to be as accurate for you as typical bolt action rifles (like the Browning X-Bolt for instance), it’s still plenty accurate. It also offers an almost instant follow-up shot to the hunter as well, making it a good rifle option for situations where that’s ideal (like feral hog hunting).
Though it will work great out to several hundred yards, the Browning Automatic Rifle is not designed for long range precision work. Instead, this semi-auto 300 Win Mag rifle is best for hunters who want a rapid follow up shot on game at closer range and it will work great in that role.
Overall Length: 46.125″
Barrel Length: 24″
Length of Pull: 13.325″
Weight: 7.5lbs
Rifling Twist Rate: 1:10″
Threaded Barrel: No
Magazine Size: 3
Accuracy Guarantee: No
Left Handed Models Available: No
MSRP: $1,499.99
BUY A BROWNING AUTOMATIC RIFLE HERE
Also Available At: Sportsman’s Warehouse
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NEXT: HOW 11 BEST HUNTING EAR PROTECTION OPTIONS FOR HUNTERS
NEXT: 7mm REM MAG VS 300 WIN MAG: WHAT YOU KNOW MAY BE WRONG
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