By Trapline Editor Hal Sullivan

From left to right: Three sizes of coyote trap: No. 1.75 with 5 inches of jaw spread; No. 2 with 5-1/2 inches; No. 3 with 6-1/2 inches.

It’s a perennial question—how big of a trap do I need for coyotes? Seems like someone at every trapping convention I attend asks if he can catch coyotes with the No. 1.5 footholds he already owns and sets for fox and coon, and I hear countless tales of coyotes caught in No. 1.5 traps, all of which are no doubt true.

But if you set out to be a coyote trapper with a bunch of No. 1.5 traps, you’re just setting yourself up for disappointment. The trap is simply too small to be a reliable coyote catcher.

If you want to move up to coyote trapping, you need something a little bigger. That would be the No. 1.75 class of traps. Give or take a little, 1.75 traps have an inside jaw opening of about 5 inches. Some people think this still is too small for coyotes. I disagree. In fact, I catch a lot of coyotes with these traps. I do concede they are the smallest I would want to use for coyotes, and the relatively small jaw spread must be considered when making sets. If a coyote’s foot isn’t pretty much centered in a No. 1.75 when the trap fires, it isn’t going to get a good grip. I take precautions to prevent this.

Solid trap bedding is important with any trap, even more so when setting a trap of this size for a coyote. There’s a good chance the coyote might not step exactly on the trap pan, and if it steps on a jaw, instead, I don’t want that trap to wiggle, or, worse yet, flip up out of the bed.

A coyote is a heavy animal, and its foot exerts a lot of pressure. When I’m checking a bedded trap for stability, I don’t push gently on it, I push hard. If the trap moves, I adjust the bedding until it doesn’t. If a trap moves underfoot, a curious coyote is likely to stop working the set and instead dig up that trap.

I also make the trap bed as small as possible, so I don’t have to repack a lot of loose dirt outside the trap jaws. If this dirt isn’t packed in really well, a heavy-footed coyote may sink into the loose dirt, back off and start digging.

Truth is, you are going to have some misses with these small traps, when the coyote’s foot isn’t centered on the pan within the small radius of the jaws. The trick is not to arouse the coyote’s curiosity, or worse yet, spook it with a poorly bedded trap. If you don’t spook it or educate it, you might catch it on the next step or the next visit. The trick is to make sure everything stays in place until the coyote steps squarely on the trap pan.

I also put a significant amount of tension on the trap pan. If a trap is set exclusively for coyotes, I don’t want it to fire until 4 pounds of downward pressure is being applied by the animal’s foot.

If you’ve never set a trap with 4 pounds of pan tension, you may think it way too much. Four pounds is a lot of weight. You can set a half-gallon plastic jug of water on a trap pan with 4 pounds of tension, and it may not fire. But trust me, when the coyote shifts its weight to that foot, it will be pressing down harder than 4 pounds, and the trap will fire.

If I want to also have a shot at catching a fox, I may back off to 2 or 3 pounds.

This heavy pan tension serves two purposes. First, it prevents the trap firing if perchance the coyote just brushes the pan with the edge of its foot. No. 1.75 traps have a small enough jaw radius that a coyote’s foot may straddle a jaw and still touch the pan. You don’t want the trap to fire at that point, because it won’t get a good hold on the coyote’s foot, if it gets a hold at all. You not only want the coyote’s foot centered on the pan, you also want that foot to be pushing down hard before the trap fires.

Think of it like the diving board at the old swimmin’ hole. If the board is so rotten it breaks when you first touch it with a toe, you’ll still be balanced with your weight on your back foot and probably won’t fall in. But if the board has a little strength left, and you step all the way onto it before it breaks—down you go.

With heavy enough pan tension, by the time the pan breaks free, the coyote has committed enough weight that the foot falls, and the coyote can’t react quickly enough to pull that foot back out. It literally falls into the trap, which helps the little jaws get a better grab on its paw.

Foot guides are the final thing I apply at the set to get the coyote’s foot squarely centered in the trap. Foot guides are small objects placed outside of the set trap’s jaws to help steer the coyote’s foot directly onto the pan. Foot guides should be just big enough that a coyote would be uncomfortable stepping on top of them.

Don’t overdo it and build a wall around the trap. The foot guide is more a subtle hint, something the coyote notices and processes in the back of its mind, just as it does every other time it takes a step.

At a dirthole set, small clods in the dirt pattern make natural foot guides. Otherwise, stones no bigger than a golf ball, small sticks or other debris from nearby the set can be used.

I typically place three foot guides in a triangle around the trap, being careful not to locate any of them above the jaws or over the levers of the trap. Sometimes it’s helpful to put the guides in place before sifting the final covering of dirt or chaff over the set trap.

If a No. 1.75 gets a good grip on a coyote’s paw, it should hold that coyote. You can soup the trap up with four coils and other modifications, but a stock two-coil No. 1.75 should catch the average coyote and also make a pretty good trap for red fox, too, though it may be a little too much for the smaller grays.

If I’m trapping where I’m fairly certain I’m only going to catch coyotes, especially if I am being commissioned to remove said coyotes, I’m going to set a No. 2 trap, the next size up. In general, the No. 2 is a 5-1/2-inch trap as opposed to the No. 1.75, which is a 5-inch trap. A half-inch may not sound like much, but it can make a big difference in the way trap jaws catch and hold a coyote.

Just be aware that there is no industry-wide standard to the numbering system. Some No. 2 traps have a jaw spread no greater than some No. 1.75 traps.

You need to check for yourself.

Here, we also begin to hit legal restrictions on jaw spread. In Ohio, we are not allowed to set a trap on dry land that has an inside jaw measurement greater than 5.625 inches. I check to make sure each No. 2 trap has an inside jaw spread of at least 5.5 inches but no more than 5.625.

Again, buyer beware.

With the No. 2, we enter the realm of dedicated coyote traps, and since I set these traps specifically for coyotes, some of mine are outfitted with Paws-I-Trip, a replacement pan and dog system that produces 3 to 4 pounds of pan tension. It works on mechanical advantage. There is no bolt to tighten, and there is nothing to go out of adjustment.

Yes, it is slightly more tension than I want for a fox, but again, these traps are dedicated to coyotes, and I am not trying to catch fox with them.

When setting this larger trap, I still follow the same rules for careful bedding and foot guides as I follow when setting the No. 1.75. The half-inch of extra jaw spread just provides a bigger working area and an increased chance at getting a good across-the-pad catch on a coyote.

On the upper end of the range of coyote traps are the 6- to 6-1/2-inch traps. The numerical size means even less with traps of this size. It seems trap makers assign No. 3 and No. 4 designations almost at random. Some No. 3 traps are actually larger than some No. 4. Perhaps because of this, some manufacturers instead designate their traps by the actual measured jaw spread, for example 650 for a 6.5-inch trap.

I certainly applaud that choice.

I follow the same setting procedures and don’t think there is much need for a coyote trap larger than 6.5 inches. So, for me, that runs the gamut of coyote traps.

The No. 1.75 is as small as I want to go, but used carefully, it can make a very serviceable trap for coyote and also fox. Bigger traps are less appropriate for fox but better suited for coyotes. Know the law and then decide what is the best fit for you—as well as the local coyotes.

Whether I’m grinding wild game from the hunt, or a whole cow from my local farmer, meat grinder plates allow me to take control and customize your grinds.

Meat grinder plates are circular discs with holes across them, and the texture of the grind depends on size of the holes in the plate.

Depending on what item you’re grinding the meat for, you will need one or more plates to achieve the right texture.

For example, if I’m grinding meat for summer sausages, I use a 2 ½” grinder plate, but I need both 1/4″ & 5/16″ grinder plates to grind meat to make fresh burgers.

What is the Usage of Meat Grinder Plates?

Whether you’re using a manual or electric meat grinder, you will need to load the machine with appropriate grinder plates to produce the final texture.

When you load the food tray of your meat grinder, it is pushed down through the feeding tube, and through the blade, which cuts down the meat.

If you don’t install meat grinder plates, then the grinding results will be thick and not consistent.

After the meat is processed by the blade, it goes through the holes of the grinder plates to give the ground meat coarse or fine texture.

The main and only job of the blade of a meat grinder is to mince the meat, so that it can smoothly go through the grinder plate holes.

Complete Meat Grinder Plate Size Chart

You can use the chart below to find the right meat grinder plate size for your needs.

Grinder Size Number Plate Diameter Hole Diameter Type of Grind Ideal for Grinding Meat for #5 2-1/8″ 6mm (1/4″) Coarse Sausages such as summer, salami, pepperoni and snack sticks #8 2-3/8″ 10mm (3/8″) Coarse / first grind Chili, chorizo and linguisa #8 2-3/8″ 4.5mm (3/16″) Coarse / second grind Hamburger. Regular sausages # 10/12 2-3/4″ 10mm (3/8″) Coarse / first grind Chili, chorizo and linguisa # 20/22 3-1/4″ 4.5mm (3/16″) Coarse / second grind Hamburger. Regular sausages # 20/22 3-1/4″ 3mm (1/8″) Fine Hamburger, bologna, hot dogs # 20/22 3-1/4″ 12mm (1/2″) Coarse / first grind Chili and stewed meats # 20/22 3-1/4″ 10mm (3/8″) Coarse / first grind Chili, chorizo and linguisa # 20/22 3-1/4″ 6mm (1/4″) Coarse Sausages such as summer, salami, pepperoni and snack sticks # 32 3-7/8″ 3mm (1/8″) Fine Hamburger, bologna, hot dogs and jerky #42 5 1/16″ 4mm Commercial use / coarse Hamburger, salami, summer sausage, pepperoni and bratwurst

What Meat Grinder Plate Sizes Should You Typically Have?

This completely depends on what you will making with the ground meat. If you’re going to be making franks, hamburgers, bologna and beef jerky, 1/8″ or 3/32″ fine grinder plates should be in your arsenal.

You can even make hamburgers and breakfast sausages with 3/16″ or 5/32″ hole size medium grind plates.

For coarse ground meat, that is to make items such as salami, chorizo, bratwurst, sausage, etc., you will need a grinder plate with a bigger hole size such as 1/4″, 5/16″, and 3/8″.

How do I Know What Size Meat Grinder I Have?

The numbers on your meat grinder refer to the size of the grinding head. Depending on the manufacturer, you can find the size of your meat grinder emblazoned on the appliance itself or in the owner’s manual.

In case you cannot find any size number on your grinder plate then just take a measuring tape and measure the diameter of the round plate and also use the same method to measure the diameter of one of the holes. Now use this information to lookup the plat size from the meat grinder plate size chart above.

The most common sizes of meat grinders for home use are #5, 8, 12, 22, and 32, whereas #20, #22, #32, #42 and #52 size meat grinders are mostly used in commercial settings.

Smaller size meat grinders come with smaller feeding tubes, and larger feeding tubes with large size grinders.

If you’re only grinding meat for burgers and sausages, then a smaller size meat grinder will do the job, but if you’re looking to grind wild game several times a year, then you should opt for a larger size meat grinder.

What is the Grinder Plate Size for Sausage?

This depends on the texture of sausages you’re making such as whether you like them with a fine or chewy texture. If you’re grinding meat for bratwurst sausages or summer sausages, you will need coarsely ground meat with a 2 3/4 inches grinder plate.

For chorizo, you will again coarsely grind meat, but this time with a 3 1/4 inches size grinding plate.

But if you’re grinding meat for breakfast sausages, Polish or Italian sausages, you should use a 3/16″ coarse grinding plate and also check out my previous article which covers meat grinder plate sizes for various sausages in detail.

How to Sharpen Meat Grinder Plate?

The grinder plates of a meat tend to get worn out after a period of use, hence need to be sharpened. If you grind with dull plates, great chances are that you won’t get the best texture and consistency from the respective plate.

The best and easiest way to sharpen your meat grinder plates and even knife is with the Sausage Maker sharpening system.

1. Soak the stones in the sharpening system in water for roughly five minutes. You have to be very gentle with them because they can get damaged easily.
2. There are two plates in the pack—one with the square hole is for the knife, and the round hole stone for the grinder plate.
3. If you just want to sharpen the grinder plate, place the stone into the grinder head of the meat grinder first, and then place dull grinder plate over it, and secure them both with the retaining ring, but not too tight.
4. Power on the meat grinder for only five seconds or so, and voila—the grinder is plate is back to new.
5. Now repeat this process for the other side of the grinder plate to ensure both sides are sharpened.

There are other ways to sharpening grinder plates as well such as with a sharpening stone, but these will require a fair bit of elbow grease, so it’s better to do the job effortlessly with the Sausage Make sharpening system.

There are many ways to fill PCP air rifles: scuba tanks, hand pumps, and High-pressure air compressors. The most inexpensive way is to use a hand pump. In this blog post, we will provide you with three tips on how to use a hand pump for your PCP air rifle.

Hand pump tip 1 – Take it Easy

Do not pump longer than about five minutes. Then let the pump cool down for about 15 minutes between 5 minutes sessions. This will prolong the life of your hand pump. You don’t want to overwork it and then have to buy a new one!

Airgun Hand Pump Tip 2 – Watch Out For Moisture

Adding a moisture filter adapter to your air pump is a great idea. It can help remove moisture from the air that you’re compressing into your airgun. This is important because moisture can damage your airgun.

Airgun Hand Pump Tip 3 – Pumping To Higher Pressures

If you don’t mind a workout in five-minute intervals, that hand pump can be a great way to fill a PCP gun! Just remember to take breaks in between pumping so you don’t overwork yourself or the pump.

The beauty of regulated PCPs is that you don’t have to pump them all the way up. Just get them beyond the set pressure of the regulator and keep it topped off. (Like the Umarex Gauntlet)

Shed hunting Michigan is tough, but it can be done.

As I walked past my treestand over to the puddle of standing water in the forest, I glimpsed what looked like tines poking out of the standing water. As I came closer, it immediately became apparent from the milky white coloration and the layout that I was looking at a brow tine, G2, and G3 just barely breaking the surface. Had the water been any higher, I might have missed seeing the shed antler completely.

After using a stick to pull the small 4-point side out of the water, I stood up, glanced to the side, and immediately felt dumb. The matching side was also laying in the water only about six feet away, and I hadn’t spotted it until then.

The tines were sticking barely half an inch above the shallow water’s surface. It was my second matched set of the year.

It also just goes to show that looking for deer antlers in Michigan can be much harder than other parts of the country. These antlers easily could have been lost to time. As soon as the rains that accompany this time of year come, the antlers would be submerged completely, and quickly hidden by dead leaf litter in that swampy area.

After more than 25 years of looking for shed antlers in Michigan, I’ve discovered many of the tips and techniques that are good for other states don’t always translate to the Great Lakes State. Fortunately, I learned how to shed hunt this state the hard way. Now you won’t have to do the same. This is how I find shed antlers every year in Michigan.

When do bucks shed their antlers in Michigan?

In my experience, most Michigan bucks seem to start shedding their antlers around the second week of February. Many are completely shed out by March. The earliest in the year I’ve found a shed is mid-January. There are always outliers to these times though. I’ve gotten trail camera photos of bucks holding their antlers into late April here before. The factors that affect when deer shed their antlers are going to be different for each animal based on the animal’s health, testosterone levels, and other factors. Although it does seem like more bucks shed earlier the more severe the winter. As much as I hate long, lingering snows, those kinds of winters always leave me rubbing my palms together in anticipation. Mainly because it seems to concentrate where bucks shed their antlers more than a mild winter, but we’ll talk more about that later.

I should also note that you shouldn’t believe the myth that all antlers get completely chewed up if you don’t hurry. I’ve found shed antlers in Michigan in July and even September before. I will note that on private lands in Michigan, it helps a lot if you can hold off searching until March. On public lands that isn’t always an option because of the competition of course. In my experience, the less pressure on the deer the better, especially if you have exclusive rights to shed hunt a spot.

Think small when searching.

It’s easy to get excited scrolling through Instagram and seeing people piling up the big antlers in Iowa, Illinois, and other states of the Midwest. However, we need to temper expectations in Michigan a little.

Let’s be honest; our deer management is not great here. Most whitetail deer do not live to see their second birthday, especially the yearling bucks. You can thank our overly-long deer hunting seasons and bag limits that may be a little too generous. But I digress. The point is, if you go out looking for a sun-bleached 5-point side, odds are you’re not going to find it here in Michigan. Unfortunately, I think that’s why a lot of Michigan shed hunters get discouraged.

I finally found my first 5-point side this year and it took me nearly 25 years to do that. I’ve found antlers every year for the last decade, but it took that long to find a 5-point. It’s just not easy to find the big ones here.

Speaking of tempering expectations, you also shouldn’t expect to find a ton of antlers in Michigan, not without a ton of walking anyway. My record for a year is 11 and I’ve done that twice. Most years I’m finding around five at the most. They’re not easy to find in this state!

Finding sheds in Michigan requires more patience and persistence than it does in other states, and calls for a commitment to looking for smaller antlers. I’ve found more fork horns than any other type of antler.

There’s a lot to explain that we won’t get deep into, but it’s important to “train your eyes” to look for sheds. And once you do that, you need to commit to only looking for a tiny bit of antler at a time. I’m usually watching for only a few inches of bone. I probably spot more antlers by looking for the curvature of the main beam than anything else.

Unless you’re a natural, it takes time to train yourself to do this. For more detail on training and conditioning your eyes, check out this previous piece on the subject. Learn from those tips, and read on for more Michigan-specific pointers.

Where deer shed in Michigan.

If I had to estimate, I would guess I’ve found approximately 70% of my Michigan sheds in feeding areas or tall grass cover over the years, especially after a winter with snow that stays on the ground for weeks at a time. Winters like that help to concentrate the deer in one area and bucks will spend an inordinate amount of time restoring their fat reserves which were exhausted during the rut.

My second favorite spots to look are bedding areas, especially the ones on south-facing slopes. I should note that while I have found antlers while grid-searching bedding areas, they are not usually the areas that pan out best for me. This goes against a lot of the advice you’ll read in most shed hunting articles, but I cannot deny my own results favoring feeding and transition tall grass over bedding areas over the years.

Many Michigan hunters, including myself, spent years convinced that all bucks in this state drop their antlers in the thick cover where it’s hard to walk ten feet without bending over or brushing through thorns. I can count on one hand the number of sheds I’ve found in thickets like those. Not only is it hard to search, it’s also not usually the place bucks frequent during the winter months. Once the hunting season is over, they know the pressure is off, and they tend to let their guard down a little. They’ll start wandering closer to the food and in more open areas when the snows arrive.

Most hunters think because crop fields and food plots are usually more open, they can cover these areas quickly and move on. As a result, they walk right past antlers they should have found had they taken the time to slowly and properly grid-search the area. One of the worst pieces of shed antler hunting advice I ever read about was to use a four-wheeler to cover ground quickly. I did this for years without finding a single shed. I’m convinced now it’s because I was going much too fast. I shudder to think of how many antlers I’ve missed over the years due to improper search techniques.

Another prime area to search is the cover immediately surrounding food sources. Michigan deer are under a ridiculous amount of pressure during deer season. In some areas, the seasons stretch into January, well after the first snow and cold temperatures. At that point in late winter, most bucks are worn down after the rut and they just want to eat. However, they’re not stupid about it. They still like to stage up along the edges of these food sources and scope the food plot or field out before they head out.

I’ve also seen too many shed hunters in Michigan waste time randomly following heavy deer trails through the woods. I usually only start checking the trails closely when I’ve exhausted the bedding areas, feeding areas, and grassy cover.

Even then, one big thing I’ve noticed over the years is that the big bucks are rarely using the heaviest of trails. A lot of those tracks are does and fawns. Many bucks, especially the older ones, seem to take lighter trails running parallel to those, especially if there’s more cover.

Don’t forget about water. Last September I found a small three-pointer ten yards inside the woods off a public Lake Michigan beach in the Upper Peninsula. That find came after I found a 110-inch matched set from a big 7-point while kayaking a river in July. The 4-point side was what caught my eye when I spotted it laying on the bank. The 3-point match was sitting in the river itself right next to it. If there’s a pond or river running through the area you shed hunt, you owe it to yourself to check the shores of it closely. Don’t forget to look IN the water too. Case in point: my submerged pair mentioned earlier.

Other things to keep in mind.

The biggest thing I’ve learned about Michigan deer over the years is that they don’t behave like the majority of other deer. The animals here receive so much pressure from deer hunters that there is often little rhyme or reason to many of their behaviors. Many articles will tell you not to look for sheds in the same places where you had a sighting during deer season. However, Michigan deer usually don’t follow those rules. If an area provides food, water, and cover, many bucks are content to stick to the same area all season. This is especially true of areas that receive little hunting pressure.

Although you should also be aware many Michigan bucks will also sometimes roam a larger-than-normal area than other states. Case in point: I’ve found sheds from bucks I watched all season before, but I also sometimes find random sheds from deer I later learned were photographed most of year three to five miles away. You’re more likely to find those roamers during a mild winter when bucks aren’t stressed about finding food. Most hunters associate a buck’s wanderlust with seeking out does during the rut, but some will continue wandering well after the rut is over.

The bigger point is that sheds can be found almost everywhere in Michigan. If you’ve exhausted the obvious spots, it’s time to move to the less obvious ones. Think way outside the box. The biggest shed I’ve ever found was from an urban buck. I found that 65+ inch, four-point side in a tiny patch of woods behind a movie theater. The antler was laying less than thirty yards from a heavily-used bike path and forty yards from a road! Michigan bucks are extremely smart and will seek sanctuary wherever they can find it sometimes. Shed hunters who are successful here year in and year out know how to find these honey holes.

Most of all, I encourage anyone interested in shed hunting to not give up no matter where they’re searching. It takes time and patience to find antlers in Michigan. However, if I can pull it off year after year, I’m convinced anyone can at this point. Get out there and burn some boot leather, and you may be surprised at what you find.

For more outdoor content from Travis Smola, be sure to follow him on Twitter and Instagram For original videos, check out his Geocaching and Outdoors with Travis YouTube channels.

READ MORE: 7 SHED HUNTING TIPS FOR THOSE WHO JUST CAN’T SEEM TO FIND THEM

Conventional wisdom holds that many gobblers are alone and seeking hens late in the season, and that’s true many days — but not always. Image by Russell Graves

Pity the poor late-season turkey hunter, as he often doesn’t know who to believe.

On one hand, barstool wisdom holds that most seasons starts too late and birds are done gobbling by the late season, so it doesn’t pay to hunt. Conversely, every outdoor writer with a degree in cliché-ology maintains that the late season is truly prime time — a period when sharp-spurred gobblers that have been henned-up most of spring are suddenly lonely and will run to the call.

Many folks wonder who’s right. And that question seems to ring louder nowadays, especially as many states are opening seasons later and running them through weeks previously reserved for fishing. So what should hunters who have traditionally quit before Mother’s Day expect from the extreme late season? After a few decades of hunting through May and even into June, I’ve learned that the late turkey season can be a glorious mosh-up of heart-pounding action and confounding questions. Here’s what you need to know.

The Stories Are True — Sometimes

Biology and anecdotal evidence suggest that many hens are incubating nests late in the season, leaving gobblers alone, on the prowl, and susceptible to calling. And in fact, I’ve witnessed some incredible late-May, strike-’em-up, run-to-the-call hunts. The largest-spurred gobbler I’ve ever taken sprinted in like a 2-year-old one late-May morning.

But that doesn’t mean such scenarios are the daily norm. Consider these examples: On May 29, 2017 — the next-to-last day of Wisconsin’s spring season — I sat in ambush along a brushy fence line and watched a gobbler breed a hen soon after fly-down and then follow about 10 girls as they fed just out of range in a stubble field. After two hours, I finally managed to irritate a nearby hen, which then attracted the flock into range, and I shot the longbeard.

On May 29, 2018 — the final day of that campaign — I struck a gobbler across a town road, probably 500 yards distant. After my next calling series, it became obvious the bird was coming, and I barely had time to find a tree and ready my gun before the longbeard half-sprinted into range. Which turkey is typical of the extreme late season? Both.

True, many hens are on nests during the late season. However, many other hens have lost nests to predation, and non-breeding jennies also dot the landscape, leaving ample single ladies for gobblers to chase. I’ve found that it’s just as common to encounter henned-up late-season birds as it is to find solo longbeards.

Also, expect some moodiness with late-season gobblers. I’ve experienced mornings when, despite seemingly ideal conditions, nothing gobbled anywhere. Songbirds and waterfowl sounded off in typical fashion, but turkeys remained so tight-lipped it was as though they’d vanished. I don’t know why. Then again, I cannot explain why turkeys tear it up one day during the gobbling peak but then gobble perhaps half as much the next day. It’s just a turkey thing.

Those quiet mornings don’t spell doom. Turkeys haven’t gone anywhere, and you can often fire up previously silent hens and gobblers later in the morning.

(DON’T MISS: 3 GREAT TURKEY CALLING SETUPS)

Don’t Buy the BS

As mentioned, some amateur biologists often claim that turkeys are “gobbled out” or done breeding when the late season rolls around. As evidence, they’ll mention seeing gobblers strutting during late winter.

Hogwash. Sure, many hens have been bred and are sitting on nests or building clutches when the late season rolls around. But gobblers don’t simply turn off their testosterone taps. Their breeding urge might wane a bit, but most remain eager and willing to tend to hens well into the late season and often after the campaign closes. A friend in Minnesota often runs during early mornings and keeps track of gobbling activity. The best gobbling day he’s witnessed? June 17.

During the late season, you might experience some days when gobblers act like they want to drift back into summer bachelor groups. They seem more interested in gobbling at each other and hooking up than in chasing hens. However, that’s a small sample size, and it usually changes daily. When that happens, don’t assume those gobblers are done with hens. They’re just not interested at the time — just like a longbeard you encounter at midseason might appear disinterested for whatever reason. (On another note, if gobblers act like they prefer a boys’ club, give them one with jake and gobbler yelping, and maybe jake gobbling and gobbling.)

Many other late-season detractors point to harvest statistics — in states that keep such records — which typically show steadily declining success as the season progresses. That makes sense. As more gobblers — and likely, relatively easy or eager gobblers — are killed, hunting prospects become more difficult statistically. In addition, any hunter knows that many surviving birds have probably been bumped, boogered and spooked, making them tougher customers. Further, hunter effort typically declines as the season wanes. Many folks kill a turkey early and are then happy to start fishing or playing golf. Those numbers don’t lie, but they shouldn’t dissuade you from hunting. You might encounter more birds earlier in the season. However, your odds of encountering the right turkey are often better than ever.

Some other folks eschew the late season because they don’t see as many big groups of turkeys or find them at spots they frequented through most of spring. That’s often true, but it doesn’t affect much. Remember, during late spring, turkeys are the most dispersed they’ll be during the year. Those hen and gobbler flocks you saw in late winter have long since busted up, with hens making nests in secluded spots with thick cover, and gobblers often running solo or with a buddy. Likewise, food sources have sprung up everywhere, and turkeys can find good eats at many spots, not just pastures, crop fields or oak flats. During that time, turkeys, as the cliché holds, are where you find them.

Thick late-season foliage can help but also hinder your efforts. It provides cover to hide your movement but can make shooting more difficult. Image by Bill Konway

Mind the Weather and Foliage

No one can argue that late season conditions differ greatly from those weeks earlier. Temperatures are typically warm — even hot — and the foliage has grown tall and thick. Those factors greatly affect hunting.

Watch the weather, and hunt accordingly. Heat shuts down gobbling as quick as any other factor. When temperatures reach a specific level — often about 70 in the North but warmer elsewhere — those big black birds with heavy plumage get hot and won’t expend much energy gobbling. As a result, you’ll want to make the most of opportunities during relatively cooler conditions during early mornings and evenings.

During warm, sunny midday lulls, turkeys often seek cool, shady areas to loaf. Out West, those might include cedar groves or pine-rimmed canyons. In the Midwest and Northeast, they could be shaded creek bottoms or heavily timbered hollows. Focus on these spots at midday. Sit and call at likely spots for an hour or more. If you can’t sit still, use a turkey chair to boost comfort or a blind to hide your fidgeting. Many folks dislike this style of hunting, but it’s darned effective. And remember, if you hear a distant bird gobble, you can always move.

Foliage can also throw you changeups, good and bad. On one hand, cover provided by understory plants and leafed-out trees lets you move through the woods easier without being seen. In many cases, you can slither tight to turkeys you wouldn’t dare have approached in the open woods of March and April. Further, thick stuff such as gooseberry creates edges turkeys must navigate, much like terrain rises and bends in logging roads. When you set up within gun range of those obstacles and make a turkey search for your calling, you can often shoot him the instant he pops into view and cranes his neck to look for the “hen.”

On the down side, foliage can make shooting more difficult. Find setups where you have clear, distinct lanes that allow sure shots. You’ll often have to shoot through a bit of brush or similar cover, but don’t force the issue, as even a few branches or leaves can blow up your pattern.

Likewise, thick foliage can also affect your perception of a turkey’s location, as gobbling will sound a bit muted and muffled amid all that greenery. Just be mindful about when you need to sit down and set up. One step too far is all it takes to send a gobbler out of your life.

Some folks wonder about late-season decoys and calling tactics. I’ve found that decoy basics still apply, but don’t be afraid to pare things down a bit. Single hens work great, especially if you’re near potential nesting cover. Likewise, single jakes work great, too, with the theory being that the gobbler searches for the hen it hears but then encounters a jake. The largest late-season decoy setup I use is a jake and hen combo.

Calling? Don’t change a thing. You must yelp a bit differently to every turkey you work, and the late season is no different. Take his temperature. See what makes him gobble and, more important, come toward you. Get aggressive if he likes it, but pare things down as needed. Basically, work that late-season turkey like you would any other gobbler.

Keep Perspective

The extreme late season carries challenges, but it’s a great time to hunt. Bottom line: During the extreme late season, your odds of finding a lonely gobbler willing to work to calling are likely never better.

And hey, it’s your last chance to hunt turkeys until autumn. That alone should prompt you to get out of bed and greet the dawn.

(DON’T MISS: IS A HUNTING TRIP FOR 1 TURKEY WORTH IT?)

Jennifer Kuroda started a not-for-profit organization called the Illinois Bobcat Foundation after the state opened the season on the bobcat. Since then, she’s been an outspoken critic of the practice. Kuroda says she understands that bobcats are one of the most adaptable mammals on the continent, but that’s besides the point.

“There’s definitely not any concern for the status of bobcats in the United States right now,” she said. “But do we need to hunt them?”

For the past seven years Kuroda has lined up for one of the bobcat hunting permits Illinois issues each year — with plans to leave it unused and possibly save at least one of the wildcats.

“I have applied for a permit not to use since the very beginning, and I’ve never received one,” said Kuroda. “So the odds are unlikely, but I still feel it’s a method for me to be involved and have a voice in the conservation of bobcats.”

Wildcat

The bobcat is a medium-sized lynx with a short bobbed tail, hence the name, and dense brown-gray fur along its back, with a whitish underside speckled with black. That makes it prized by hunters and trappers of furbearers. The best pelts can fetch hundreds of dollars, with pelts from the western U.S. typically going for a higher premium than those from the east.

Viorel Popescu is an associate professor in the Department of Biological Sciences at Ohio University in Athens, where he researches quantitative wildlife ecology and lately, bobcat populations. He says that habitat destruction coupled with the fur trade led to a decline in bobcat populations by the 1850s throughout the Midwest.

“They were never in danger of extinction,” said Popescu. “But they had been extirpated from several Midwest states like Ohio, Indiana, Illinois.”

The bobcat is not a federally endangered species. They’re one of the most widely distributed, medium-sized mammals in the country, second only to the raccoon. Popescu adds that today the lynx’s range spans nearly the entire United States, and parts of Canada and Mexico.

Still, a handful of states, including Indiana and Ohio, continue to ban bobcat hunting. Indiana, for example, shot down a 2019 proposal to open a season for the lynx. That same year, California officials closed their bobcat season until further notice.

Popescu says that although bobcat populations were able to return to Midwestern states, arriving at any official count or estimate of the total existing population is complicated by the cryptic nature of the species.

“And the estimates of total numbers of bobcats are really unknown,” he said. “What we know for sure are some very localized densities from very focused studies.”

Open season

Currently there is no population estimate of the number of bobcats in Illinois, and the whole northeast quadrant of the state is off limits to bobcat trappers and hunters. Some counties are cut right down the middle, where hunting is allowed on one side but not the other.

Similarly, Oklahoma does not have a solid number to point at when it comes to bobcat populations. Jerrod Davis, a senior biologist with the Oklahoma Department of Wildlife Conservation, says that’s not necessarily a bad thing.

“If you have a very accurate estimate of how many animals you have in a state, you have a problem,” said Davis.

For others, that’s a cause for concern.

Laura Nirenberg founded the Center for Wildlife Ethics in Indiana and has been executive director for three decades. She’d like to to keep bobcat season closed in the state, even though just across the state line in Illinois, it’s allowed. She says that the self-reported sightings don’t necessarily translate to verifiable proof.

“I can’t tell you how many times people see a stray dog and say that they’ve got a coyote. My point is they’re not trained,” said Nirenberg. “Their intentions might be pure, they might want to help the bobcat and or the department, but that doesn’t mean that the information being gathered is valid.”

The vast majority of Eastern bowhunters hunt from trees, but rarely do they practice from them. Before you ascend, it’s important to understand the ins and outs of treestand trajectory.

The force of gravity upon a traveling object is strongest when parallel to the Earth. Therefore, if your sights are zeroed at ground level, your arrow will impact slightly higher when shooting at both upward and downward angles. Here’s how to maximize accuracy and become more deadly from above.

Prevent Form Breakdown

Many golfers are PGA-caliber players from the friendly mats of the driving range, but out on the course, the fairways are uneven and footing is shaky. Form breaks down. This is the same with treestands.

Travis “T-Bone” Turner of Bone Collector fame first gained notoriety as a tournament archer. He competed professionally from 1989 to 2002 and won the world championship in 1991. He’s also a hunter who’s taken hundreds of deer from treestands.

“Some people drop their bow arm when shooting down, but that changes the geometry of their form and causes missed shots,” Turner said. “It’s important to bend at the waist.”

To do this correctly, draw and aim as if the target is at your height level, and while holding that form, bend at the waist until your pin is on target.

T-Bone also suggests adding a kisser button to your bow. He says it’s particularly valuable when shooting from a stand, as it forces you to align not only your eye, but also your arms, head, and body properly. It’s a blatant fact that poor and inconsistent form will lead to bigger groups and more wounded deer.

Consider a Specialized Sight

While they have faded in popularity, pendulum-style sights work wonderfully when shooting from treestands at modest distances. They work on a trigonometric function based on the fact that your bow, the target, and the ground form a triangle whose unknown variable (the distance to the target) can be deduced. In layman’s terms, the sight uses gravity to automatically adjust to the correct range.

Once dialed-in for your bow, the sight stays on-target from about 5 to 35 yards or farther, depending on your arrow speed and your height above the ground. The higher you go, the more room the sight has to work before it “bottoms out,” thereby establishing the sight’s maximum distance. For hunters who always shoot from treestands and keep shots under 35 yards or so, pendulums are deadly.

TruGlo’s Pendulum One-Pin adjustable model works amazingly well, plus it can be dialed for ground shooting. That said, any sight you use will work just fine as long as you understand the effect of elevation and master your technique.

Consider Stand Placement and Angles

Of course, you must weigh the height at which you place your stand against the wind and how important it is to get up high to avoid being detected. As a general rule, the higher you go, the tougher the shot. While a deer and its vitals are three dimensional, the backbone can shield arrows. So the greater the angle, the smaller the margin for error in making a double lung hit.

Combine that with the fact that there is often more foliage from the tree canopy to contend with and that it’s rarely practiced, shooting at a downward angle is harder than shooting from the ground. Many bowhunters prefer climbing 20 to 30 feet, but I prefer 12 to 20 feet in typical good-wind situations.

That being said, you must also consider extreme angles. Plenty of deer have been taken while walking directly under bowhunters’ stands, and some actually like the “straight down through the shoulder blades” shot. A matador kills the bull at the end of the faena by threading a sword just by the spine, down through the shoulder blades between the neck and the back, to reach the heart. When done perfectly, it’s poetry. But when missed by a fraction, it’s appalling. It’s the same for bowhunters.

If you miss the heart, you’ll hit one lung. A deer can go a long way on only one lung. If you center the spine perfectly, you’ll paralyze the deer and have him, but if you don’t, it can glance. If there is little chance of the deer entering cover in the next few yards, it’s probably best to wait until the angle becomes less extreme.

Practice From Above

No matter where you set your zero, or what sight you choose, the key to accurate shooting from a treestand is to practice from a treestand – while wearing your hunting gear. All of it.

Get a feel for where your arrows strike in relation to your sights at various heights and distances. Certainly it takes more effort going up and down the tree, but it’ll make you a more efficient bowhunter. Bribe a helper to pull arrows and send them up.

If you hunt more from treestands, consider zeroing your pins from an elevated position. It’s better to be slightly off on the practice range than slightly off while actually hunting.

Tech Tricks

To truly comprehend treestand trajectory, let’s take it back to the beginning. Before rangefinders existed, most hunters would take a length of rope and stretch it from the base of the tree from which they were hunting to various distance markers – trees, bushes, or whatever was available. If the length of rope stretched for 15 yards to the base of a tree inside your shooting lane, you set your pins and shot accordingly. There was just one problem: Picture trying to climb 15 feet to set your stand while holding that rope. Eventually that rope will run out of real estate, hence the difference in true horizontal and linear distance.

Comprehending that equation is, quite simply, a critical part of under-standing arrow flight.

Nowadays, though, any bowhunter with a rangefinder in hand can instantly solve said equation. Bushnell’s Angle Range Compensation (ARC) system is just one example of this technological application. All Bushnell units equipped with ARC will calculate the angle at which you are shooting, then determine how much that angle affects the true horizontal distance to the target. In a blink, the rangefinder displays the actual linear distance, so you can adjust your point of aim. (See Figure 1, above)

But technology doesn’t stop there. Bushnell’s newest innovation for treestand hunters might change the game. The company’s ClearShot system, given proper calibration using two different pin distances, will show you the highest point of your arrow’s trajectory compared to straight line of sight. (See the small line above the crosshairs in Figure 2.) This illustrates that not only is the horizontal distance different from the linear distance in a treestand, but also the angle is not always true. Your arrow flight has an arc. Knowing that arc will allow you to thread the needle between branches and other obstacles when shooting from above interesting.

Everybody knows what not to wear when you’re hunting; fur boots, a gas mask, and anything bright. What’s more difficult is knowing exactly what to wear, as well as which brands you can trust for hunting gear.

Today, I’ll be looking at some of the best hunting clothes brands and highlighting a bit about what makes each of them distinct, whether it’s their history, their innovations, or their product catalog.

The 10 Best Hunting Clothes Brands

#1: Sitka

If you have even a passing interest in the world of hunting clothes then you already know about Sitka.

Their layered garments are big deals and highly coveted by hunters everywhere. The company is also famous for their inventive use of GORE-TEX in their clothes to improve their waterproofing and overall durability.

It’s funny that I describe Sitka as standing atop the hunting clothes mountain because that’s where their story literally began.

The company’s founders were atop a freezing cold peak, desperately trying to hunt game, but suffered from underwhelming equipment. It was then that they realized that they weren’t alone.

I’m not saying that Bigfoot snuck up on them, but that their loneliness was a metaphor for how customers felt when they hunted using less-than-stellar apparel. Thus, they set out to make clothing that could withstand any and all elements.

That’s why many of their items contain materials like the aforementioned GORE-TEX alongside others like PrimaLoft and Polygiene.

Sitka develops all their items to be tough and dependable regardless of whether they’re made for big game, whitetail, waterfowl, or turkey hunting.

Highlights

• One of the most popular hunting clothes brands means their items are easy to find
• Gracious warranty and return policy
• Contributes grants to pro-environmental causes

#2: Kuiu

Jason Hairston founded Kuiu in 2011 as a way for customers to reliably purchase his designs.

Kuiu cut out the middle man and used a direct-to-consumer model that reduced costs, helped the brand develop deeper ties with their fanbase, and gain more intel to improve their products.

Their humble beginnings and close relationship with their customers helped Kuiu become one of the best hunting clothes brands of the past decade.

They became so beloved and regarded by people across the United States that they gained the approval of larger brands that wanted to support their vision.

The Main Post Partners, a California-based firm, invested $50m in Kuiu in 2017, allowing Hairston’s company to expand even more.

They used the investment to improve their testing policies in weather conditions like winter tundra, monsoons, and nighttime eclipses.

Kuiu is especially noted for their high-quality camouflage. Their designs use dense materials like Quixdown, 3DEFX+, and DOT AIR for flexible, reliable, and inconspicuous apparel.

Highlights

• Began as a small company, then expanded by building customer rapport
• Kuiu Inner Circle membership provides bonuses and exclusive perks
• Benefits and discounts for military members and first responders

#3: Filson

Let’s turn the clocks back to 1897, the year the electric bicycle was invented and Amelia Earheart was born.

Dwarfing both of those facts was Filson’s establishment. The Seattle-based company started by making clothes for pioneers and explorers during the Yukon Gold Rush, and only grew from there.

Nowadays you may feel like you’ve struck gold and feel quite a rush when you look through Filson’s wardrobe. They’ve recently adopted a larger lifestyle focus but still manufacture plenty of outwear items, vests, pants, and garments for fishers and hunters.

Filson’s catalog is more casual than some of the other best hunting clothing brands. That’s not a bad thing since there are few companies that make pieces that can fit in at a bar and in the wilderness as Filson’s.

So they’re a brand to look into if you want a more fashionable type of hunting apparel.

Highlights

• Versatile and modern looks
• Free shipping on all US orders over $75
• Free returns on all purchases

#4: Kryptek

If the first thing that popped into your head when you read this brand’s name was something about cryptocurrency then I’m sorry to disappoint you. Maybe I can make it up to you by explaining why Kryptek is one of the best hunting clothes brands.

Thankfully, their distinguishing features are instantly apparent. Kryptek’s clothes have a quality that most other brands couldn’t dream of matching.

The American brand uses military-grade technology to make military-worthy gear that doesn’t cost as much as a US fighter jet.

Kryptek was created by military veterans who realized that most hunting clothes lacked the durability of military wear. Their experience in their field gave them the insight necessary to apply combat-wear technology to hunting apparel.

It’s how they were able to introduce micro and macro-level camouflage designs and Kryptek Cool Touch fabrics (among other innovations) to consumer-level goods. They’re a great brand if you want hunting clothes that exude durability.

Highlights

• The company was founded by military veterans
• Unique camouflage technology gives a three-dimensional camo appearance
• Many retail locations in Washington

#5: Orvis

Orvis is a company that predates many modern hunting technologies like GPS, red dot sight, and online shopping. They’re actually the oldest active made-to-order business in the United States, which is a sign of Orvis’ commitment to customer satisfaction.

They began all the way back in 1856 in Manchester, Vermont by making fishing equipment. Fishing has remained part of their product repertoire alongside hunting goods for men, women, and children, and a fully developed line of canine items.

Activism is deeply embedded into Orvis’ DNA. They’ve donated to wildlife conversation organizations since the late 1800s. Orvis sends 5% of their annual income to environmental projects like the Atlantic Salmon Federation, Nature Conservancy, and the Ruffled Grouse Society.

You’ll find traditional rough-and-tough hunting gear standing shoulder to shoulder with relaxed trousers, sweaters, and polos in Orvis’ catalog, meaning they have an item for nearly every occasion.

Highlights

• Some of their proceeds are redistributed towards conservation efforts
• Free shipping on all orders if you use the code FREESHIP
• New subscribers of their email newsletter can receive a 15% discount

#6: First Lite

The next entry in my list of the best hunting clothes brands is this Idaho-based company. First Lite was entirely the product of their environment.

Founders Kenton Carruth and Scott Robinson both got their feet wet in the winter sports industry and wanted to find a way to combine winter technology with Idaho’s hunting potential.

They found that merino wool kept them warm at night, cool during the day, and didn’t leave them steaming with sweat the next day. The material’s versatility formed the backbone of First Lite’s mantra; to develop hunting clothes for any situation.

Interestingly, the desire to create versatile products allowed them to develop specific lines of clothes. First Lite has sets dedicated to some of these types of game:

1. Southern turkey
2. Northern turkey
3. Spring bear
4. Archery elk
5. Western big game

First Line develops simple garments for every layer. They make everything from boxer briefs to jackets, and every piece should last you through most seasons.

Highlights

• Use materials like merino wool
• Free shipping on orders over $199
• Can ship internationally

#7: Drake

You have no idea how many puns I want to make about this company, but I’m turning a new leaf here at Honest Brand Reviews. Therefore, Drake Waterfowl is safe, unlike the game you might be hunting if you wear one of their items.

As you can probably guess from their name, Drake Waterfowl planted their flag in the industry for their duck-hunting equipment.

However, focusing just on that would undermine the quality of their other collections. The brand also produces high-quality fishing, collegiate, non-typical, and casual apparel.

These apparel lines aren’t copied and pasted from one another either. Drake Waterfowl spends plenty of resources testing their products in the field. They tinker with each item’s construction to improve them for their intended purpose.

That’s why some of their lines, like the Drake Waterfowl Endurance Series, are made with flexibility but a bit more weight than other lines.

The style of game determines their functionality, and Drake Waterfowl take great care in tailoring their products to customer needs.

Highlights

• One of the best hunting clothes brands for duck hunting
• Items are intelligently designed for their specific purposes
• You can earn free shipping on orders over $75 if you sign up for the brand’s email newsletter

#8: King’s Camo

Here’s a screwback of an origin story for one of the best hunting clothes brands. King’s Camo originally started in 1995 as a manufacturer of graphic tees for King’s Calendars.

They started developing camo shirts in 2000 and launched their tentpole King’s Desert Shadow Camo two years later.

The design marked a shift in this company’s goals, and they pivoted hard towards making more hunting gear.

However, their focus still remains on innovating their camouflage. King’s Camo digs deeper into how a pattern can affect one’s performance on the hunt. You won’t find a company that puts more thought into camouflage patterns than these guys.

Seeing as that’s the case, their materials may not be as tough as some of the other best hunting clothes brands, but that’s not necessarily a bad thing given that King’s Camo still uses quality materials and isn’t cutting any corners.

Their defined vision caters to people who want to achieve supreme stealth.

Highlights

• They focus on optimizing camouflage patterns and textures
• Agreeable prices
• Free shipping on US orders that total more than $150

#9: Banded

Banded is a company that can make ducks quiver in their boots. They’re one of the best hunting clothes brands for waterfowl because many of their items are designed for warmer weather when fowl are more abundant. Banded’s products are uniformly lightweight and agile.

Their items are pretty stupendous when you consider the technology behind them. They utilize a GoSystem technical layering scheme where each of their products is divided into one of three categories:

• Shield layer
• Mid-layer
• Core layer

Each one serves a specific purpose but provides a versatile cover when combined. You can layer them atop one another without overheating or weighing yourself down.

Banded’s line of casual clothing is robust. They have athleisure pieces (and everyone could use more athleisure clothing in my opinion), sweaters, pullovers, trousers, and hats.

Highlights

• Lightweight and flexible waterfowl apparel
• A diverse collection of casual pieces
• VIP membership comes with exclusive perks

#10: Mossy Oak Camo

The final company I’ll highlight in my list of the best hunting clothes brands is one that came from the humblest of beginnings.

Mossy Oak Camo was founder Toxey Haas’ way of commemorating the leaves, earth, and branches scattered across his West Point, Mississippi stomping grounds. He worked alongside a company in 1986 to develop a fabric that would mimic those textures.

The design helped hunters blend into their surroundings more effectively, and Mossy Oak Camo slowly gained a strong foothold within the industry.

They’ve continued to reiterate and improve their designs too, launching new lines like the Mossy Oak Camo Obsession, the Mossy Oak Camo Elements Auga, and the Mossy Oak Camo Shadow Grass Blades.

As you can probably assume, this brand provides a huge array of camouflage patterns and textures.

Their assortment of subdivisions allows them to cover most types of game in most environments, making them a proverbial one-stop-shop for hunting apparel.

Highlights

• A diverse collection of camouflage
• Strong fanbase community that spurs each other to engage in environmental conservation
• Official partner of organizations like the DU, NWTF, and NRA

How to Shop For The Best Hunting Clothes

By now, you’re aware of what the best hunting clothes brands are, but you still might not know how to choose the best hunting apparel for you.

Luckily, I’ve cooked up a quick checklist that you can run through to help guide your decision.

Brand

Branding matters for a few reasons. Some brands can only ship to specific locations, some are more prosocial in environmental concerns, and some dedicate more time to customer satisfaction.

All of these can affect which of the best hunting clothes brands is the best for you without even seeing their product gallery.

Materials and Sustainability

The materials matter in hunting because they can influence a piece’s functionality. Comfort only matters so much if your pieces restrict your movement or don’t protect you against poor weather conditions.

Durability

An item’s durability refers to how well it can withstand the elements and the physical activity required in hunting. You don’t always need the heaviest-duty apparel, but you definitely want something that can get the job done.

Camouflage Abilities

Nobody ever wants to stick out like a sore thumb, especially when it comes to hunting. Some of the best hunting clothes brands that I listed made their names with their camouflage abilities, which speaks to how important good camo is in hunting.

Size

Size partially plays into camouflage and functionality, as a piece that’s too small can restrict movement while one that’s too large can be cumbersome.

Additional Features

Do you need an item that has additional protection? How about a jacket with plenty of storage for accessories? These are all extra features that can determine whether a piece is right for you.

Price

The best way to look at a product’s price is that it’s the sum of all the previous factors I just listed. You know that a cheap hunting jacket is going to be lacking in at least one regard, so it’s worth your time and effort to buy one that earns its price tag.

FAQ

What to wear to stay warm while hunting?

The best way to stay warm while you hunt is by layering up. You should build your layers like this:

• A base layer of merino wool
• A mid-layer that insulates while wicking away moisture, ex. Fleece
• A top layer that protects against the wind and rain

What is the best color to wear while hunting?

This depends on what game you’re hunting and where you’re hunting. Neutral and earthy colors are the smartest ones to wear as you’ll want to blend into your environment.

Can you hunt in jeans?

The problem with hunting in jeans is not the material – in fact, denim is a great fabric for hunting because it’s so durable – but the color. If you do hunt in jeans then opt for neutral tones rather than blue jeans.

What camo is best for deer hunting?

You’re going to want to choose a green camouflage when you go deer hunting. Prime deer season is when many plants are at their most vibrant, so you’ll want to fit into the flora.

Final Thoughts

The best hunting clothes brands all serve similar purposes – to help you become the best hunter possible – in their own unique ways. I hope that my list has helped you decide which company most closely aligns with what you’re looking for in a piece of hunting apparel.

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10 Best Jacket Brands

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As a kid, we fished for largemouth bass in the summer. We’d catch the lion’s share of them around weed beds and shady docks. But every now and then I’d wake up early enough to tag along with the grownups to go smallmouth fishing. In the summer, our resident brown bass didn’t make many appearances after 8 a.m. But I can remember the sage advice from my mentors back then. Just wait until October, they’d say. That’s when the smallmouths really move in.

And they were right. Fall smallmouth trips were special times.

And they were right. Fall smallmouth trips were special times. Much of fishing remains a mystery to a youngster, and it’s the unknown factor that makes a great selling point. Now, as a more seasoned angler, I realize the smallmouth were there all along — just not in areas where we’d cross paths.

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But I also still believe in the power of autumn. I’ve fished for smallmouths all across the country and have found one solid rule: the colder it gets in the fall, the better they bite. Whether it’s water temps dropping to the 50s in Tennessee or ice forming on the Great Lakes, the decline in water temperature triggers a feeding spree among smallmouth bass.

Winter can be tough, and to survive and thrive, bass must put on as much weight as possible beforehand. In fact, studies have found that successful springtime spawns within smallmouth populations are often dependent on the previous fall’s feed.

Regardless, the fish are ready to eat, and we’re ready to be a part of that. We just need to get in the right areas.

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Tactic One: Shallow Rocks

Let’s start with the easiest and most obvious. Around much of the North, especially on bodies of water with a mix of rocks and vegetation, smallmouth bass are drawn to specific hard structures. Water temperatures are dropping, grass beds are dying off, and the remaining rocky areas attract solid food items like crawfish and perch. At times, a single large rock may hold a bruiser worthy of personal-best status. One of my largest bass, a fish eclipsing 7 pounds, came in this very scenario on a cold November day on New York’s Chautauqua Lake.

Here, it’s imperative to find the sweet spot. Big smallmouths are masters of their domain, and they know the best hunting grounds. Transitions, like where rocks meet sand or sand meets grass, are always best. Side-imaging depth-finders help, but many of these spots can be seen with a good pair of sunglasses on a nice day. Line up and make accurate casts, and repeat them — exactly – once fish are located.

It’s tough to beat a jig and plastic in this scenario. The best smallmouth options are a little lighter (around ¼ ounce) and more streamlined than a standard flipping jig. Stick to blacks and browns, and fish them on a long rod and 12-pound fluorocarbon. On particularly cold days, afternoons are best, once the rocks warm surrounding waters.

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Tactic Two: Long Points

Across the Southeast, everything revolves around baitfish. Large shad schools tighten up and begin migrating to major creek arms on the country’s biggest reservoirs. Not surprisingly, bass follow. While largemouth bass have a reputation for getting in the skinniest of water, smallmouths in the same system usually remain in mid-depth, main lake areas. More comfortable as pack feeders than lone ambushers, smallmouths prefer to work schools of baitfish in groups.

Large points are great places to find these roving bands of bass. They key here is to first locate baitfish. Location will depend on the stage of the game: main lake in early fall, large creeks later on. Regardless, find the bait and you’ll find the bass. Look for large points with vast flats on top, and fish there early in the day with topwater baits. Nothing beats a walking bait for smallmouths. As the day progresses, bass will often move off the sides of points, especially if a creek channel intersects. If rocky or wood structure coincides, all the better. Deeper fish can be caught on cranks, jerkbaits, grubs and drop-shots. Occasionally, the topwater bite lasts all day. Remember to stay by the bait.

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Tactic Three: Bluff Banks

Our third strategy mimics the second. However, here, we want to find a place where schools of bass can pin baitfish. This is an incredible fishing opportunity when it presents itself. On many lakes with steep, bluff shorelines, smallmouths will hold on small shelves and rock piles waiting for baitfish to blow in. When that happens, the bass go berserk and massacre the minnows right up against the wall.

Again, it’s imperative to first find the baitfish, then find areas where wind or current will blow them against the bank. Even areas with strong winds producing noticeable waves against a bluff bank are still in play. Occasionally, a large sea-wall or the face of a dam will suffice. In any case, we’re looking for places where baitfish are being disoriented and facing a large object.

These spots are often snaggy, so a cast-and-retrieve bait is better than a bottom-bouncer. Swimbaits on a heavy jighead are great. Big bladed spinnerbaits come on strong once the water clouds up from wave action. At times, a Rat-L-Trap is all you need. Remember, this is an all-or-nothing method, so you’ll know right away if it’s working.

(Buy Alert: Red Fish Long Sleeve Tee)

Tactic Four: Great Lakes Basins

The big brown bass of the Great Lakes are a different breed. Sure, some come shallow in fall, but most stay deep and move deeper. In twenty-plus years of fishing the big waters, autumn was never underrated. Start your search where the best summer fishing occurred, and move deeper. Bass from adjacent structures will eventually meet up in one special area. Years ago, I coined these places Basin Zones, where the outside edges of summer structure meet vast, open water basins. On Lake St. Clair, this is often 18 feet of water; on Ontario is may be 50.

What we’re looking for here is the last piece of structure before the bottom drops to never-never land. Don’t begin casting until you mark significant numbers of fish. We’re looking for the motherlode here. The best presentations will be efficient deep-water methods. Drop-shot plastics remain number one, followed by metal blade baits and spoons. Underspins are becoming popular, as are solid-body swimbaits on jigheads weighing 3/4 ounce. The key is to get a bait down, even in the rough seas associated with fall fishing up north. Once you find them, the fish will do the rest.

(Don’t Miss: The Best Postspawn Crappie Fishing Tactics)

Tactic Five: Flats in the Desert

A quick review of recent smallmouth action reveals new fisheries in the West are coming on strong. Lakes like Havasu and Mead are producing eye-opening catches. Here, tactics mimic those of other parts of the country, with a desert twist. Clear waters and large striper populations put baitfish on high alert. When looking for smallmouths, sometimes the best play is to first find the stripers.

Striped bass are efficient open-water predators, likely due to their saltwater roots. Other species, notably largemouth and smallmouth bass, often feed in and around schools of stripers. Picking up the scraps can make for a good life.

Look for feeding action around shallow points and rocky flats. There, fish jerk baits and topwaters with a brisk, aggressive retrieve. If your catch includes nothing but stripers, slow down with a white hair jig fished in and around the school. Mike Guerra — an old friend living and fishing in Vegas — jigs a white hair jig around striper schools until temps cool to jacket weather, and he has some of his best smallmouth days when everyone thinks he’s striper fishing.

Sorry to let the cat out of the bag, Mike.

(Don’t Miss: Hundreds of Sharks Congregate in West Florida Canals)

Today I’m going to show you the best muzzleloader scope.

In fact:

I’ve hand-tested over 10 scopes alone for this review.

The best part?

I’ve sorted the scopes by use. So whether you’re on a budget or need the best muzzleloader scopes, you’ll find it here.

Let’s dive in!

How to Choose a Muzzleloader Scope

Optics can be a crazy expensive addition to your firearm.

But don’t just go throw any old scope on top of your boom stick.

There are considerations you need to make in your purchase, and you need to be more selective if you’re putting an optic on your muzzleloader.

Glass Clarity & Reticle

One of the most important aspects of choosing a scope is to consider the glass quality. You can only shoot as well as you can see. And if you can’t see well through your new optic, you wasted your money.

Higher end scopes from brands like Nikon and Leupold will have excellent glass with crystal clear picture clarity and color fidelity.

If you choose a more affordable scope, don’t cut corners on glass. Vortex Optics makes many scopes that fall in affordable price ranges while still having a wonderfully bright sight picture.

When choosing a scope, you want to pick one that lists having fully coated lenses. This means that all of the exterior lenses have a coating that increases light transmission to your eye-this will give you a bright sight picture.

Ideally, getting fully multi-coated lenses is best. This means that all of the lenses have many coatings that improve the light transmission and cut down on glare. You’ll get a clear and bright view through the optic. And the anti-glare coatings will prevent objective lens reflections that could give away your position.

The reticle you chose is up to you. You can choose to get a reticle that is hashed to account for bullet drop (BDC reticle) to help you estimate holdover for your shots. Some shooters prefer a clean and simple duplex crosshair. I’m not sure if an illuminated reticle is really beneficial for a muzzleloader, but if you want one, no one will stop you.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

As a muzzleloader shooter, eye relief is a spec that you can’t ignore like some centerfire riflists do.

If you have an eye relief that is shorter than 3 inches, your scope is going to scrape off your eyebrow when you shoot. That’s both painful and embarrassing.

Save yourself the trouble and get a longer eye relief scope with at least 4 inches.

You also want a generous eye box with room to adjust behind your optic and still get a good sight picture. The bigger your ocular lens is, the better this feature will be.

Durability

If a scope isn’t listed as being o-ring sealed. Pass on it. It’s worth spending your hard earned money on an o-ring sealed optic. This makes it rain and waterproof.

You also should look at getting a scope that is argon or nitrogen purged. This will not only help with light transmission but will keep your scope from fogging in crummy weather.

You don’t want a hunt ruined by less than ideal weather. Invest in a durable optic from the start.

Another special consideration for muzzleloaders is to make sure that the scope you choose is shockproof or recoil proof. Your firearm has harder recoil when you shoot compared to many centerfire rifles.

You will want a scope that can handle the extra kick.

Leupold boasts that all of its scopes must survive 5,000 rounds on the Punisher- a device that mimics recoil 3x stronger than a .308.

Vortex also makes nearly indistructive scopes that are a bit more budget friendly.

No matter which brand you choose, do your homework and sift through product reviews looking for durability or other shooters using it on a muzzleloader.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

Elevation and windage knobs, also called turrets, are what you use to make fine-tuning adjustments to your scope. You use these to zero your optic, or adjust it so that your shots actually land where you’re aiming.

The elevation turret will move your shot up and down. The windage turret will adjust your shot from left to right.

Ideally, you want turrets that have a tactile and audible click that you can hear and feel when making adjustments.

Getting locking turrets that can not be accidentally turned are a nice feature, but those will add to the cost. Less expensive optics will have capped turrets with screw on caps that cover both turrets.

Some brands will send you elevation turrets that are marked to compensate for bullet drop for your particular load upon request.

Parallax & Magnification

Centerfire rifle scopes often have the parallax fixed at 100-150 yards for centerfire rifles. That’s pushing the range for a muzzleloader, where parallax should be fixed to about 75 yards.

If you want to put a centerfire rifle scope on your muzzleloader, you need to take this into consideration.

Some more expensive scopes have a side parallax adjustment so you can lock it out for your shooting distance.

Some brands will factory adjust it for you if you send your new scope to them.

A muzzleloading rifle cannot fire shots that move as fast or as far as centerfire rounds. You will not be making shots from several hundred yards away from your prey, so don’t go crazy on magnification.

A high powered scope will hurt more than it helps because it will bring your target too close to you. If you take a high powered scope on your next deer hunt, all you’ll be able to see will be a big hairy patch on the animal’s hide-if you can even find the animal at all.

High powered scopes will have a narrow field of view too-which will make it harder for you to spot your target.

When looking at scopes, the magnification is the first set of numbers before the “x”, so 1-5×24 would be a scope with magnification powers that will make your target 1 to 5 times bigger than what you can see with your naked eye.

You don’t want anything higher than 5x.

Many muzzleloading minutemen prefer a 1-5x or even 1x, 2x, or 3x fixed magnification. For muzzleloading, smaller magnification is better.

The number after the “x” is the size of the objective lens (the lens at the end of the scope) in millimeters. A 1-5×24 scope has an objective lens that’s 24 mm in diameter.

You can look here for a list of the best 1-4x scopes.

Mounting & Rings

Because your muzzleloader kicks like a mule compared to many centerfire rifles, it will do a number on your scope and the equipment you use to attach it.

You want to be sure to use a solid mount (if you need an aftermarket one) and solid rings. You don’t want to cut corners on your mounting hardware.

Here’s a great video that will help you pick top notch mounting hardware:

Final Thoughts

You can easily pick a top-notch scope for your muzzleloader. You just need to keep a few key points in mind.

You want:

• Quality Glass
• Low magnification
• Highly durable scope design
• At least 4 inches of eye relief
• Heavy duty mounting hardware

With these 5 things in mind, you’ll be able to pick an optic-at any price range- that will fit your budget and your needs.

If you’re also looking for an ACOG, look here.

The 4 Best Muzzleloader Scope

If you’re pressed on time, here’s a quick list of the best muzzleloader scope:

1. Vortex Diamondback 1.75-5×32: Best Overall
2. Bushnell Banner 3-9×50: Best Muzzleloader Scope Under $100
3. Leupold VX-3i 3.5-10×40: Best Long Range Muzzleloader Scope
4. Simmons Truplex Prohunter 3-9×40: Best for the Budget

1. Vortex Diamondback 1.75-5×32: Best Overall

The Vortex Diamondback 1.75-5×32 is the best overall scope on the market, especially for hunters.

In fact, it’s got all the features and qualities that you could need at an affordable price that won’t break the bank.

I put this on my AR-15 to test it out months ago and have yet to take it off because it works so well.

Want to hear more? Keep reading…

Glass Clarity & Reticle

The first time I looked into this scope I was surprised to find the glass was just as clear as other scopes that are twice the price!

The lenses are fully multi-coated, which means you get a nice, bright sight picture, even in the midday sun.

The Dead-Hold BDC reticle is my favorite part of the Vortex Diamondback 1.75-5×32.

Having a bullet drop compensation reticle means that you’ll easily be able to estimate your holdover at varying distances, even as far out as 500 yards.

The reticle is second focal plane, which means that it doesn’t change size with magnification. With 1.75-5x magnification, this works great.

If you had a higher magnification to shoot at extra long distances, you might need the reticle to increase in size. But since I’m not using this scope for 3-gun competitions, my average prey is usually only around 100-300 yards.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

The Vortex Diamondback 1.75-5×32 has 3.5-3.7 inches of eye relief.

If I have one complaint about this scope, it’s that the eye relief does seem to be a little unforgiving, depending what you mount it on.

On my AR-15 it’s tolerable with a good cheek weld, but on something like 6.5 Creedmoor, it would be pretty tight.

However, I do really love that this scope has a fast focus eyepiece. This allows you to get the reticle focused quickly.

Target acquisition is fast and easy, almost as good as a prism scope or red dot sight.

Durability

This scope is built like a tank and can handle whatever you throw at it.

It’s a one-piece tube with a hard anodized finish that can take a beating. This finish also helps to keep your setup camouflaged when you’re out hunting.

Plus, it’s O-ring sealed and Argon purged, which makes it waterproof and fogproof.

If that’s not enough, it’s backed by Vortex’s unlimited lifetime warranty that covers anything that could go wrong.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The elevation and windage turrets are ¼ MOA click adjustments.

The turrets give nice, audible clicks and have a zero reset under the caps.

Speaking of zeroing, it couldn’t be easier. After only a handful of shots, I was hitting a half inch target easily and exceptionally accurately.

And, after at least 400 rounds or so, the zero has held. I even accidentally dropped it on the gravel road and it was still dead on.

Parallax & Magnification

The Vortex Diamondback has 1.75-5x magnification.

This is the perfect range for brush hunting and big game hunting. It gives you an accurate sight picture from 100-500 yards easily.

For deer hunting, you’ll be hard pressed to find a scope that’s better than this one.

As for parallax, it’s fixed at 100 yards and I really haven’t noticed a problem.

Mounting & Rings

This scope is an excellent value, but you will need to buy your own mount.

I’d recommend getting Vortex Pro Series Rings. That’s what I used and they’re great.

As for other accessories, it doesn’t come with much. Just removable lens caps. I’d suggest getting some flip-up caps like the Vortex Optics Defender Flip Caps.

Is the Vortex Diamondback 1.75-5×32 worth it?

This scope is really the best overall scope for hunters, with all the features you need.

It has:

• Audible click turrets
• Fast focus eyepiece
• 1.75-5x magnification
• Dead-Hold BDC reticle
• Fully multi-coated lenses
• Shockproof, waterproof, fogproof

If you’re an avid hunter and want a scope that has all the features you’ll need to bag your prey, try the Vortex Diamondback 1.75-5×32. You won’t be disappointed.

2. Bushnell Banner 3-9×50: Best Muzzleloader Scope Under $100

The Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 is by far the most elite budget friendly muzzleloader scope I have found throughout my hunting career.

Not only does the scope come in at an amazing price, but the quality and attention to detail is apparent.

If you want to learn why this scope hasn’t come off my muzzleloader setup since the day I purchased it stick around.

Glass Clarity & Reticle

The Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 is a scope with unbelievable brightness and glass clarity.

Even with the impressively low price, Bushnell did not sacrifice any quality with the building of this scope.

The dusk and dawn brightness multi coated lens provides amazing improvements to both the clarity and brightness of the scope.

In addition, the scope has a fast-focus eyepiece that makes target acquisition even easier.

The Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 gives me great confidence whether I am out for a day on the range or sitting in a tree stand during muzzleloader season.

The reticle that comes on the Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 is the multi-x reticle.

This was my first experience with this particular reticle and I am really enjoying it so far. I tend to be slightly picky about my reticle and this one has fit my shooting style unbelievably well.

This scope was an absolute dream addition to my muzzleloader setup.

Not being my main form of hunting, I try to keep my muzzleloader setup on a tight budget and the Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 fit right into that.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

The eye relief on the Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 is very forgiving and a great option for any setup.

I have found that with the forgiving eye relief, the sight can be mounted in a comfortable position on any firearm.

I have used this primarily on my slug shotgun setup and muzzleloader setup.

It would also work great on any other rimfire options.

In addition, the scope has a fantastic field of view which makes this a great option for any hunting setup.

The Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 has got to be one of the best budget muzzleloader scopes I have used.

Also, here are some great options if you are looking for a handgun scope for those long muzzleloader hikes.

Durability

The durability so far on the Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 has been fantastic.

My muzzleloader definitely takes the stress of long hikes and some crazy weather. This scope has seen it all and continues to perform like I just took it out of the box.

The Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 is waterproof, fogproof, shockproof, and dry-nitrogen filled.

This scope has taken a beating and keeps on going. Especially in my muzzleloader setup, I need a scope that works 100% of the time no questions asked.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The elevation and windage knobs have performed surprisingly well for the low price tag this scope comes in at.

Usually on budget scopes I find the turrets are often mushy and inconsistent.

This is not the case with the Bushnell Banner 3-9×50. The turrets have been precise and accountable every time I have used them.

They have well defined movement and sound that makes it a satisfactory scope to zero.

My zeroing process was surprisingly easy. I took the scope directly out to the range right after I got it.

In maybe 30 minutes I was able to achieve some of my best muzzleloader groupings at 100 yards.

In addition, I have rarely had to touch the turrets since I zerod for the first time.

This tells me that the zero holds fantastically well on the Bushnell Banner 3-9×50.

Parallax & Magnification

I have been using the Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 for a few months and have noticed a slight parallax as I get higher in magnification.

It is nothing excessive and certainly doesn’t hinder my shooting abilities; however, it is something that I noticed throughout my testing.

The Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 has a magnification of 3x to 9x which is perfect for my usage.

This being on my muzzleloader setup means that it is not often I am taking shots beyond 100 yards.

9x is far more magnification than is needed for a shot at that range, but it is certainly nice to have when the heart is racing and the hands are sweating.

Mounting & Rings

The Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 did not come with mounts so I purchased a set of Warne 1inch Quick Detach Rings in a Low Matte finish.

I ended up going for the quick detach mounts because I thought I was going to be swapping it out on my slug setup.

This was not the case and I can’t seem to take it off my muzzleloader because I like that setup so much.

I would also recommend getting Monstrum Rubberized Flip-Up Lens Covers (Objective Lens: 37-42mm).

These have been some of my favorite flip up lenses I have found to date.

Is the Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 worth it?

I am very cautious about spending money on budget scopes because I am unsure how long they will last me. The Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 has put all of my worries to bed and has become my favorite muzzleloader scope in my entire arsenal.

Here’s why:

• Price
• Clarity
• Durability

In short: the Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 is a fantastic scope that will outperform scopes that cost over double the price.

If you are still unsure whether the Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 is the right scope for you, give it a try. I am sure you will be just as thrilled as I am.

3. Leupold VX-3i 3.5-10×40: Best Long Range Muzzleloader Scope

For the true muzzleloader fan, a high quality scope is a must.

Whether hunting or target shooting, accuracy with a muzzleloader can be tough.

The Leupold VX-3i can remove one part of that difficulty.

Glass Clarity & Reticle

The glass is some of the finest I’ve seen on a rifle scope.

A military-grade coating called DiamondCoat 2 is the reason. It allows maximum light transmission while being very scratch resistant. The lenses are built for life.

The DiamondCoat 2 also lets all colors of light in, so there is no tinting whatsoever, and it shows when you have a big buck sighted near twilight. The only thing brighter is night vision.

The duplex reticle is pretty plain, but for a muzzleloader it isn’t a big issue. You aren’t going to be taking game at 300 yards. It’s perfect for a muzzleloading application and many others.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

I’ve found the scope to be very comfortable on top of my modern front stuffer, then I found the reason.

Even at maximum magnification, the spec sheet on the Leupold boasts 3.6 inches of eye relief. It’s even greater at 3.5x power, a whopping inches. I could mount this thing on my shotty and fire 3.5 inch shells without worry of scope bite, much less the kick from any black powder rifle out there.

That said, you won’t need to adjust anything on your rifle’s mounting location to plop this guy on. It’ll work fine for pretty much every rifle out there on a standard rail.

Durability

Leupolds are tough. I’ve owned several over the years and this is one area where they never cut corners.

They have a special scope torture device at their lab, called the Punisher. This machine bangs the test design 5000 times with three times the force of a .308, and any design that doesn’t pass gets sent back to the drawing board.

It’s one of the main things I love about this brand. They are simply the toughest scopes out there, and the new DiamondCoat 2 coating adds another layer of military-grade durability to the lenses themselves.

They’re also waterproof to 33 feet and have a special proprietary gas blend inside to keep moisture out. They won’t fog or falter, even at 40 below.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

Super reliable turrets, but what else would you expect?

The clicks are firm and precise, which makes zeroing the scope a breeze.

It won’t be too often on your muzzleloader that windage and drop will be an issue, but if you do want to take a long shot, you know the drop on a lead ball can be tremendous.

Being able to click down for some skill shots to impress your friends is important, and the scope has an adjustment range of 52 MOA. It’ll give you the adjustment you need for any range you would ever want to shoot your muzzleloader.

Parallax & Magnification

Magnification ranges from 3.5 to 10, and adjusts easily with the smooth turning dial.

The adjustment is perfect for a muzzleloader scope. At 3.5x, you have a wide enough field of view to hunt accurately while still getting a huge boost in the accuracy of your shots, and 10x makes even the tiniest targets at 100 yards big enough to see.

10x is also a great magnification for testing the accuracy of your loads. We put so much effort into weighing bullets, picking the right wadding, carefully measuring powder, and greasing with the right lube, that it’s nice to see how reliable all that work really is at the range.

If there was a complaint about this scope, it would be that the parallax is non-adjustable. It’s set at 150 yards with Leupold. But again, for hunting or target shooting, the scope is still going to be tighter than most muzzleloader groups.

Plus cheek rest is a skill, and most of use wouldn’t be shooting black powder if we didn’t like a challenge.

If you won’t need the high magnification, of course, you might consider something designed for a battle rifle.

Mounting & Rings

No rings are included with the scope, and while any ole one-inch rings will do the trick, you are pairing a rugged muzzleloader to a rugged scope. Prudence dictates using something sturdy to do it, like Leupold Permanent Weaver-Style Cross-Slot rings.

Leupold also makes lens covers to work with their VX-3 line.

Is the Leupold VX-3i 3.5-10×40 worth it?

If you are looking for a budget scope, this probably isn’t it. That said, one feature of the VX-3i is that it was designed to be a bit more wallet friendly than some other Leupold scopes.

If you want the absolute best value in a quality scope for your muzzleloader, this is the one.

Let’s recap.

• Crystal clear view
• Military-grade coatings
• Tremendously long eye-relief
• Passed Leupold’s torture testing
• Great magnification range for muzzleloaders

And it comes with the best lifetime guarantee in the world of shooting.

Really, you can’t go wrong with the Leupold VX-3i 3.5-10×40 scope. It’s the obvious choice.

4. Simmons Truplex Prohunter 3-9×40: Best for the Budget

The Simmons Truplex Prohunter 3-9×40 is a versatile scope and great quality for the price.

In fact, it’s less than half the cost of other brands and has most of the same features and qualities.

I am an avid hunter and use this scope regularly on my trips.

Want to know why? Keep reading…

Glass Clarity & Reticle

With this scope you’ll get a sharp, bright image.

The glass is high quality and the scope has multi-coated lenses to cut down on glare and give you a crystal clear sight picture.

And what about the reticle?

The Simmons Truplex Prohunter 3-9×40 has a Truplex reticle, as it says in the name. What that means is that the edge of the posts are thicker and then the crosshairs thin out towards the center.

This makes it much easier to target in low light and thicker background brush. It also makes target acquisition super quick and easy.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

You’ll get 3.75 inches of eye relief with this scope.

That’s pretty great compared to most similar scopes. And it means you won’t have to worry about how much your rifle kicks.

Plus, the Simmons Truplex Prohunter 3-9×40 has Quick Target Acquistion (QTA) eyepiece. This, along with the Truplex reticle, makes target acquisition incredibly fast. And easily comparable to something like a red dot sight.

Durability

Even though this scope is extremely affordable compared to most, Simmons didn’t stinge on the materials or features.

It is O-ring sealed, making it completely waterproof. And, it has a nitrogen purged housing too. So you don’t have to worry about your optic fogging up.

It’s also recoilproof and can handle whatever caliber rifle you want to put this scope on.

From personal experience, I can tell you that the Simmons customer service is excellent. So, even if you have a problem, you can rest assured they’ll take care of you.

And Simmons makes a lot of other products too, including scope for air rifles. Which means if you love the Truplex reticle, you can get it in different types of scopes.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The elevation and windage turrets are easy to adjust and give you ¼ MOA adjustment clicks.

This scope has the TrueZero elevation and windage adjustment system, which gives you a locked in zero.

And speaking of zeroing, it only took me about 15 minutes, if that, to get this scope set.

The TrueZero system helps the scope hold zero extremely well. I’ve taken mine hunting many times and never had to readjust.

Parallax & Magnification

You’ll get a lot of versatility with this scope because it has a variable magnification of 3-9x.

With that range, you can shoot accurately from around 100 yard out to about 900 max.

Which makes this scope the perfect attachment for your hunting rifle. I use it mainly for varmint hunting, but feel confident I could take bigger game at greater distances with this scope.

It’s also great for just target plinking and is a lot of fun to use for shooting at the range.

Plus, the parallax is fixed at 100 yards and I haven’t had any noticeable issues with it.

Mounting & Rings

The downside to this scope is that it doesn’t come with a mount.

But, when you’re buying a scope at such a great price, you can’t expect to get too many accessories.

I went with AccuShot Picatinny/Weaver Medium Profile 2-piece 1-inch Rings for mine.

It does come with lens caps, but they’re not flip up. You just put them on when you’re not using the scope. If you want flip up covers, these Monstrum Rubberized Covers work pretty well.

Is the Simmons Truplex Prohunter 3-9×40 worth it?

This scope is the perfect choice for any avid hunter.

It has:

• Clear Glass
• Truplex reticle
• Unbeatable price
• TrueZero System
• 3-9x variable magnification

If you’re looking for the best quality scope that’s budget friendly, try the Simmons Truplex Prohunter 3-9×40. You’ll be happy you did.

Now It’s Your Turn

I hope you enjoyed my best muzzleloader scopeguide.

Now I want to turn it over to you:

Which scope will you pick for your rifle?

Let me know by leaving a quick comment down below.