Question:When hunting big woods, what are the best terrain features to look for when trying to find deer signs? — Joe Barrett, Cheltenham, Pa.

Saddles

Why bucks use them: Saddles may not be my go-to terrain feature because they don’t occur everywhere, but they are easy to find and easy to hunt. Saddles offer the two things that bucks look for when traveling: the path of least resistance and a low profile. Mature bucks typically slink around like ghosts — just out of sight — they are around but not really visible. Saddles permit this behavior by reducing the amount of time the buck remains on the skyline.

Saddles accomplish the buck’s second goal by lowering the ridge line. When he is crossing from one slope to the other, the saddle makes the mission easier. Saddles funnel all manner of game. I have hunted some impressive trails through saddles up in the mountains when chasing elk, but here we will focus on whitetails.

How to find them: To find saddles you need a topographical map. Saddles will appear as a gap between the contour lines that make up the ridge top. It is easier to show you what a saddle looks like on a topo map than to try to describe it, so I have included a map image for that purpose.

The weakness of relying on topo maps to find saddles is the scale of most maps. Most depict a terrain variation of 20 feet between adjacent contour lines. That means that for a saddle to appear on the topo map, it has be 20 feet deep. I have hunted many saddles over the years that were only five to ten feet deep, yet they were very productive stand locations. There is only one way to find these shallow saddles and that is on foot. You have to walk the ridge tops. If the ridge dips you have a saddle. Start looking for stand locations.

How to hunt them: With a gun, saddles are a killing field. Set up along the top of the ridge, right where it drops off into the saddle. This gives you the best field of fire to cover anything using the saddle and by staying high, you remain in the consistent wind that stream over the ridge versus dropping down over the top where the wind is sure to swirl.

With a bow, most saddles are less exciting, but still worth hunting. Bucks don’t generally flow right through the bottom like water, so you have to pick a side. The wind, not the sign, dictates which side you should pick. If the wind is 90 degrees to the ridge, you can hunt either end of the saddle equally well. However, if it is quartering across the ridge, you must favor the downwind side of the saddle or you will spook too many traveling deer.

Saddles are best during the rut when bucks are actively cruising. They can also be very good on opening day of the firearms season when other hunters keep the bucks moving. Saddles are not as productive during the early bow season or during the late muzzleloader season unless they lie directly between feeding and bedding areas.

Bedding Ridges

Why bucks use them: I don’t hunt bedding areas early or late in the season because of the risk of spooking deer. However, during the rut, the reward is worth the risk. Things are more chaotic and the deer don’t notice my coming and going as readily. Bucks move through these bedding areas looking for does, creating activity that is very consistent. Many of my best bucks have come from this exact pattern and I look for it as my number one morning option everywhere I hunt.

I hunt ridges nearly every morning during the rut because that is where I find the action. Bucks come through these areas looking for does all morning long. I once hunted a single ridge stand 14 mornings during a 16-day stretch. It never grew old and I eventually shot a great 10-pointer.

The buck parade typically starts shortly after the does arrive — roughly an hour after sunrise. They stay on their feet until late morning if the day is cool, offering several hours of possible action each day.

How to find them: Like all terrain features, ridges show up best on a topo map, but because of shadowing, ridges also show up pretty well on aerial photos. Finding a ridge is only the start, you then need to decide where along the ridge to hunt. I favor funnels in all my whitetail hunting, and surprisingly there is a common funnel on ridge tops.

The areas where a ridge narrows are natural locations for a tree stand. In most parts of whitetail country, a ridge narrows because a draw or ravine runs up from the valley below to end at this point along the ridge line. As deer travel the side of a ridge, they will detour up and around that ravine. So at the place where a ravine cuts into the side of the slope, the bucks will bottleneck closer to the top of the ridge. This is also a natural place for bucks to cross a ridge, another reason to select a stand right at the head of a ravine.

How to hunt them: Determine where the deer are likely feeding and then enter the ridge stand from the opposite direction. Don’t hunt the stand unless the wind is blowing from the feeding area toward the bedding area (into your face as you walk in). Once settled in the stand, the wind will carry your scent over the valley on your downwind side (assuming the ridge is at least 60 to 80 feet high), and ideally over the noses of any deer traveling the valley below.

I have hunted a few of these stands where the conditions were perfect. There was literally no way for the deer to smell me because the ground dropped away quickly on the downwind side and my scent didn’t hit the ground until it was hundreds of yards away and sufficiently diluted that it evoked no reaction from the deer. I love setups like that.

Ditch and Creek Crossings

How bucks use them: Now we are getting into what I think is the best natural stand location in rolling or rugged areas. Again, we are dealing primarily with bucks that are on the move during the rut. They are covering ground and looking for does. In the course of their travels, they will have to navigate through (and around) creeks and ditches. You can easily find and hunt the crossings they are likely to select. I bet ditches and creeks have played a role in at least a third of the bucks I have shot in my life.

How to find them: Ditch and creek crossings are the first thing I look for when hunting a new area. In fact, where these terrain features are common, you can build your entire season around them. Creeks scream at you from topo maps, are obvious on aerial photos and you literally stumble over them (or into them) when walking the property. Ditches are less obvious from the map study, but equally easy to find with your feet on the ground.

Creek crossings generally occur at the center of an S curve in the creek. The bends of the S are generally holes with high banks on the outside while the straight portion between bends is generally shallower with a lower bank. That is where the deer cross.

Some creeks don’t meander, making it much harder to find crossings without actually walking the banks of the creek, looking for cross trails.

Ditch crossings typically take three forms. Either the deer go around the ditch at the top or bottom (comprising the first two forms) or they cross the ditch itself at a place where the banks are gradual. The first two crossings are easy to find from a map study, but you have to walk the ground to find the third type.

How to hunt them: This is why I love ditches and creeks. They offer a no-brainer entry and exit route. At least half of my stands rely on creeks or ditches to permit undetected access. I get right down in them and sneak along. Even if I don’t hunt right on the edge of the ditch or creek, I use it to get in and out.

Go in before the season with a chainsaw and remove all the brush and fallen trees from the ditches so you can walk through easily and quietly, even in the dark. Now you have a corridor that permits you to stay out of sight, keep your noise to a minimum and lay down scent in a place where deer are unlikely to walk. This is the definition of the perfect entry and exit route.

Creeks are not as easy to navigate when they are carrying a lot of water, but when they are low they also represent the perfect access route. In fact, I like the undetected access afforded by creeks and ditches so much that I go out of my way to find stands along these corridors just so I can use them to slip in and out.

Field Crossings

How bucks use them: Many people call them swales. If you think bucks love to use saddles when they are located in the woods, you should see the way they use them in an open field. These swales are basically saddles across open fields, a way for the buck to stay out of sight as he traverses open land.

How to find them: These crossings are generally evident by two brushy ravines on an aerial photo. The ravines extend into the open ridge from the opposite slopes of the ridge, pointing at each other like huge, brushy fingers. This is the narrowest crossing point on the ridge — again reducing the buck’s exposure while traveling.

How to hunt them: The opposing brushy fingers are both good stand choices, deciding which to hunt comes down to the direction of the wind and the availability of good trees. This would be a good stand for all phases of the rut and the place that bucks will use to enter the field to feed during the early and late season — an all-purpose stand. These are fun spots to hunt too, because you can see well in all directions.

Bluff Edges

How bucks use them: Any buck cruising along a side hill will funnel up the slope to bypass the steepest section by walking the bluff edge. Very rarely will they traverse the near vertical slope unless someone is pushing them. One of my best stands of all time was located at the top of an abandoned rock quarry.

Talk about a steep bluff! I hunted it when the wind was blowing out over the quarry so no deer ever smelled me on stand. I accessed the stand by walking up the slope, right on the edge of the quarry, so I got in and out without detection. I messed up on one of the biggest 8-pointers I have ever seen in my life from that stand, but that is another story.

How to find them: You can sometimes see bluffs when studying an aerial photo, but they are much easier to see on a topo map. Where terrain is the steepest, contour lines are very close together signifying a fast change in elevation. When you see contour lines that are close together, you are looking at a bluff.

How to hunt them: As mentioned, bluff stands are among my favorites because they offer incredible advantages and a very straightforward hunting plan. Place your stand near the edge of the bluff and then hunt it with the wind blowing out over the valley below. There is no way that a deer will be able to smell you. If you can climb the bluff from below, you have the ultimate stand setup, one where the deer never detect your entry or exit and they never smell you while on stand. It doesn’t get any better than that.

You know what is the most confusing decision if you are a shooter? It is when you have a beautiful rifle and you need to choose the perfect cartridges for it.

So, what are you choosing between 303 british vs 30-06?

Per round of .303 British will cost you $2.50 and .30-06 Springfield will cost $1.90. So, .30-06 is quite cheaper. 30-06 has a velocity of 890 m/s and .303 British has 844 m/s. .30-06 Springfield is more available. But .303 British damages more to the target because of its lower energy than 30-06.

So, let’s get into the article to find the perfect cartridge for you.

A Quick Comparison Between 303 British and 30-06

The 303 British and the 30-06 basically mean .303 British ammo and .30-06 Springfield ammo. Both of the ammo is very popular among shooters. They have some impressive aspects that made them popular among the users.

Now let’s have a quick look into the basic differences between these ammos. For your comfort, I’ve taken the cartridges with the same mass (10g).

Factors.303 British (10g).30-06 Springfield (10g)Velocity844 m/s890 m/sEnergy3,463 J3,820 JMas Pressure (SAAMI)49,000 psi60,200 psiOverall length3.075 in3.34 inAvailablityGoodBetterPrice $2.50/rd$1.90/rd

Though you can compare the cartridges by their aspects the effectiveness also depends on the rifle. So, it is really necessary to have a good rifle to get the best performance from the cartridges.

If there is any defect in your rifle then it can also affect the performance of the cartridge. So make sure your rifle works properly and doesn’t have any defects in it.

Remember there are also differences between 303 enfield vs 303 british.

In-Depth Comparison between 303 British and 30-06

Let’s assume you have a nice rifle and it works perfectly. Then comes the confusion of having cartridges. Because while choosing the perfect cartridges you need to examine so many different aspects.

Now let’s talk about the 303 rifle bullet and 30-06 deeply. So that it will be easier to you to choose the best one for your rifle.

Velocity

Velocity is the most important aspect when you are going to choose the perfect cartridge for you. This shows how your bullet is going to reach the target. And obviously when you’ll shoot you’ll definitely want to reach close to the target as much as possible.

The .303 British (10g) has a velocity of 844 m/s. Which is kind of impressive for many of the users. And this velocity is enough to make a good hit on the target.

On the other hand, the .30-06 Springfield (10g) has a velocity of 890 m/s. Which is 46 m/s more than the .303 British (10g). As this cartridge has more velocity then you can say that it will be more accurate than .303 British (10g).

Winner: As .30-06 Springfield (10g) has more velocity so it wins this segment.

Energy

The impact of a bullet is described in terms of momentum and kinetic energy. The more pressing concern is how much of the energy will reach the goal. If the bullet goes through, a little amount of the projectile’s energy may be transferred to the target.

The majority of the energy may be transferred if the bullet deforms or mushrooms. A slow bullet that transfers all of its energy to the target. Which is more deadly than a quick one that goes through the target.

So, we can see that .303 British (10g) creates 3,463 J of energy. Which is very impressive. And it will create good damage to the target.

Then if you take a look at the .30-06 Springfield (10g) it creates 3,820 J of energy. Which is almost 400 J more than .303 British (10g)’s energy.

You have already got slow bullets or bullets with less energy damage more than the fast ones. So generally .303 British (10g) will damage more than the .30-06 Springfield (10g).

Winner: As .303 British (10g) will damage more that’s why it wins this segment.

Availability

Availablity is one of the most concerning issues while choosing cartridges for your rifle. Suppose you are planning for a long adventure tour. Then you will definitely want to have some extra cartridges with you.

Then again you will be more satisfied with the availability in every place. It will be better if you can get your cartridges in ruler and remote areas right!

So, you will get more availability with .30-06 Springfield (10g). These bullets are very commonly available all around.

You will also get.303 British (10g) in most of the city or town areas. But it won’t be that much available in rular and remote areas.

Winner: For being more available .30-06 Springfield wins this segment.

Price

Price of the cartridges should be the main concern like velocity when choosing bullets right! Because bullets are something that needs continuous investments.

So it is really important to have some cartridges with reasonable price points.

The .303 British (10g) will cost around $2.50 per round. Which is kind of a costly cartridge.

Then the .30-06 Springfield will cost around $1.90 per round. Which is 60 cents less than the .303 British (10g). This may not be seen as a big difference but it will become large when you’ll buy a bulky quantity.

Winner: For being more reasonable .30-06 Springfield wins this segment.

Which One You Should Choose!

As you can see .30-06 Springfield has more velocity and availability with a lower price point. Which makes this cartridge more attractive to the shooters.

But if you want to have less shoot and more damage to the target then.303 British can be your choice. And don’t forget it is also a popular cartridge among shooters.

So, now you can choose as per your preference.

Don’t forget to take safety precautions before shooting. Let me suggest to you some stuff that will keep you safe while shooting.

• YINSHOME Shooting Ear Protection Earmuffs, Gun Safety Glasses, Earplugs, Protective Case
• TRADESMART Shooting Ear Protection – Hearing Protection with NRR38 Earplugs, Safety Glasses & Hard Carrying Case

These protection tools will help you to save your ears and eyes while shooting.

FAQs

What is a 303 British comparable to?

303 British, necked down to fire a. 257 projectile, developed in Australia. Which was in the 1940s as a sporterized rifle cartridge. Notably for the Lee-Enfield action; comparable variants also emerged in Canada at the same time.

How accurate is a British 303?

Accuracy may vary depending on the rifle you are using. Most 303s are 60 to 100 years old, so keep that in mind. To 250-300 yards, a competent rifle should have a minute of deer accuracy. Though 303 British has a good velocity to hit accurately.

Is 303 British a good caliber?

Yes, in most cases it is a good caliber. The.303 British cartridge is ideal for hunting whitetail deer and black bears and is good for all medium-sized wildlife. It was a favorite moose and deer cartridge in Canada when military surplus rifles were plentiful and inexpensive.

Conclusion

I hope by now you have got a perfect idea about 303 british vs 30-06. I want to recommend the one as per your needs.

If there are any more queries, please drop them in the comment section.

Be safe while shooting. Take care.

The first step to successfully hunting uncooperative gobblers is to become confident in your turkey decoys choice and set up. It is easier to be patient, and you will hunt longer if you know that there are mature gobblers on your property. The best way to find out for sure if the birds are there is to set out game cameras. It seems that just about everyone these days is using a trail camera or two to scope out their deer herd, but I rarely hear of anyone using them to scout turkey activity. However, I have found that turkeys can be more predictable and easier to pattern than deer and you will find historic strut zones for optimal turkey decoys placement on stubborn toms.

Best Overall: Avian X LCD HDR Jake & Hen Combo for $239.98

Best for the Price: Flextone Thunder Creeper for $49.98

Most Mobile Combo: Lucky Duck Collapsible Combo for $67.47

Best Hen: Montana Decoys Miss Purr-Fect – $79.99

Best Value: HS Strut Lite Hen and Jake Turkey Decoy Combination – $84.99

Strengths: Easy to use, durability

Weakness: In some instances (10% of the time), turkeys feared the decoys and wouldn’t come in close when using the aggressive head.

The Avian-X® LCD HDR Jake and Hen Turkey Decoy Combo is designed to stir the blood of dominant toms nearby with its heavy-duty realism. These turkey decoys are made from durable blow-molded materials based on hand-carved designs, offering unbeatable detail and longevity to deceive even the most wary of gobblers. By combining lifelike feather detail and painting with flocking in strategic areas, both the HDR Jake and HDR Hen deliver a natural look that will leave big toms eager to assert their dominance. The barely undersized HDR Jake features a quarter-strut posture and subdominant feathers, and both turkey decoys come with two interchangeable heads. The Jake includes a curled, aggressive head and a straight and submissive head, while the HDR Hen features a lowered resting head and a raised active head. The rubber molded leg stumps and included carbon mounting stake (which stores in the tail) provide a quick setup and realistic movement without any unnatural spinning. Additionally, a carry bag is included for easy transportation.

• For your average hunter who doesn’t plan to run a marathon with a turkey decoy in his vest, the Avian X set carries well enough.
• For all the folks who have had issues with the decoys leaking, you will find exponentially more who have been happy with the durability of these decoys
• It would be hard to find turkey decoys any better looking than these, especially for the price.

Best Price

Strengths: Price point, easy to use, light to carry

Weakness: Doesn’t allow for actual tail feather, slightly undersized

The Flextone Thunder Creeper Turkey Decoy has the gobbler-attracting realism of a full-body decoy in a front-profile, easy-to-pack design. Blow-molded, one-piece construction has true-to-life painted feathers and the lifelike posture of a smaller-than-average strutting gobbler to challenge without being intimidating. Tail removes for easy transport. Includes carbon-fiber stake.

• Front-profile, easy-to-pack design
• Blow-molded, one-piece construction
• True-to-life painted feathers and lifelike posture
• Removable tail for easy transport

Most Mobile Combo

Lucky Duck Collapsible Hen/Jake Decoy Combination – $67.97

Strengths: Price point, mobility

Weakness: Durability

The HD Collapsible Jake/Hen Turkey Decoy Combo from Lucky Duck in front of them. The pose of this semi-strut jake will get any mature tom fired up. Allows you to set it up as an upright hen or partially collapsed for a breeding hen position. Lightweight pair offer exceptional detail and the durability of molded EVA plastic construction. Both decoys collapse easily to fit in your vest when it’s time to move, and then deploy easily at the next spot. Includes 2 two-piece folding metal stakes.

• Realistic jake and hen turkey decoy combo from Lucky Duck
• Exceptional detail for lifelike realism
• Durable, crack-resistant molded EVA plastic
• Decoys collapse easily for transport
• Includes 2 two-piece folding metal stakes

Best Hen

Montana Decoys Miss Purr-Fect – $59.99

Strengths: Portability, light weight, realistic look.

Weakness: Its lightweight and portability do lead to some less realistic features.

The ultimate portable decoy, the Montana Decoy Miss Purr-Fect can be packed down to the size of a baseball cap and spring into a full-bodied 3-D hen decoy in seconds. Detailed feathering built from an HD photo of actual feather cuts fools even the wariest of toms. In addition, the molded head and multiple leg-pole sleeves allow you to adjust the pose to fit the situation. Easy to carry and set up.

• Packs down to the size of a baseball cap
• 3-D soft-side body with ultrarealistic feathering
• Adjustable head and multiple leg-pole sleeves add realism

Best Value:

HS Strut Lite Hen and Jake Turkey Decoy Combination – $79.26

Strengths: Most realistic, durable, and transportable for the price

Weakness: Takes time to get the shape right.

Fool even the wisest toms in the woods with the H.S. Strut Strut-Lite Hen and Jake Turkey Decoy Combo from Hunter’s Specialties. This durable decoy combo features foldable hollow bodies that carry to your favorite gobbler hunting spots quickly and easily. Flake-resistant paint creates an extremely realistic look. The hen features a receptive upright position that’s sure to grab nearby toms’ attention, while the Jake’s semi-aggressive posture is sure to infuriate dominant toms and bring them running. Use the decoys apart, or together in a breeding setup. Comes with 2-piece ground stakes that help you set up quickly when needed.

• Foldable hollow bodied decoys are easy to carry.
• Long-lasting, flake-resistant paint for true-to-life look
• Hen decoy – receptive upright position
• Jake decoy – arrogant, semi-aggressive posture
• Set up decoys by themselves or together in a breeding pose.

Keep Reading: Pros & Cons Of Every Turkey Shotgun Gauge

How Does the Lowrance Hook Reveal 7 Perform When Used in Practice? (Experiences)

To deliver a trustworthy Lowrance Hook Reveal 7 Review, we gave the fish finder a test ourselves. It took us about an hour to install the device. If this is your first fish finder, you’ll find the manual easy to follow.

What also caught our attention was the TripleShot sonar which can locate fish at 150 feet around the boat and 300 feet below the surface. Navigating during our kayak fishing was also easier with this fish finder compared to other models out there. One final great thing about Lowrance Hook Reveal 7 is that you can use it in direct sunlight and rain since it’s waterproof.

Display

Hook Reveal 7 display is on a whole other level. It offers a Splitscreen option where you can customize the screen to your preferences.

If you opted for the SplitShot or TrippleShot Sonars, you can include mapping, SideScan imaging, Chirp Sonar, and DownScan imaging – all at once.

The display also introduces a new color specter in the Hook Reveal 7 series, which easily distinguishes underwater structures and provides better target separation. You can customize the colors of your sonar charts and StructureScan to suit your needs.

The 7-inch display comes at the perfect size for a solo fishing trip but also a group one. Up to 5 people can catch a good angle of the screen with this one.

Interface

The interface aspect of this Hook Reveal 7 review is not the shiniest. The Hook Reveal 7 has a basic touchpad with a few buttons to help you navigate the device and adjust the settings easily.

The interface is not complicated nor time-consuming and menu options are well-organized. What you get from this interface is as follows:

• Home Key. It takes to you to a homepage.
• Exit Key. You need this key to exit a page.
• Select Key. This key has the same purpose as an “OK” button.
• Arrows. Use them to navigate in all directions.
• Waypoints Keys. These mark a waypoint.
• Zoom Keys: Two keys for zooming in and out.

As you can tell, it’s a self-explanatory interface, and you won’t need too much time to get used to the device.

But, we do realize that some anglers are either used to touch screens or would prefer a similar interface over a touchpad. If that’s the case, then this Hook Reveal 7 fish finder might not be the best option for you.

Mapping

The mapping features of Hook Reveal 7 outdo any fish finders for the price it comes at. Initially, you can use the C-MAP Countour+ option to navigate through 24,000 US and Canadian lakes using a foot contour. So, you have pre-loaded maps to get you started and you can navigate freely in many US and Canadian waters.

However, if you need this fish finder for a local lake where you have a fruitful route you want to save, you can do it on Hook Reveal 7. The mapping features allow you to create a custom map. Here, you can mark waypoints and fish arches, or learn which places to avoid. But, the best custom maps option is Genesis Live, a feature that allows you to make contour maps – and chart them while at it.

The Sonar

All Lowrance Hook Reveal 7 models employ the CHIRP technology and support it with a DownScan. However, not all models are capable of side scanning. The HDI transducer’s capacity is caped on 83/200/455/800 kHz, meaning it’s far from enough for side scanning. The hook transducer offers a temperature sensor, transom mount, and 20-foot power cord.

Otherwise, the CHIRP sonar picks up various information from below the lake surface. Such include objects, fish, vegetation, and aspects of the underwater structure. You have an entire scope of the lake, with readable visuals for both beginner and advanced anglers.

Not to forget, the sonar features of Lowrance Hook 7 include an advanced signal processing Split Flasher that allows you a superb ice fishing experience and Fish ID. You don’t need to be an expert sonar reader to navigate toward the more prolific fish spots. With this feature, the fish finder will detect any fish-dense area and show you the way there.

Networking

Inspecting the networking features as part of our Lowrance Hook Reveal 7 review was a must. And, as it turns out, a network connection is a deal breaker for some anglers. Sadly, the Lowrance Hook Reveal 7 comes without Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, or Ethernet sharing option.

Essentially, if you want to share data on your Hook Reveal, you have to it old-school. That is, by removing the Micro SD card and transferring it to the desired device.

Who is Lowrance Hook Reveal 7 for?

Lowrance Hook 7 offers a series of products for both recreational and serious anglers. If you have a particular feature in mind, like side imaging or contour, preselect your preferences before you order a product.

The Verdict on this Premium Fish Finder

All things considered, what makes the Hook Reveal 7 a premium fish finder is the C Map contour. Many anglers enjoy creating their own contour maps because it’s adventurous. Plus, there’s the neat option to save the sonar logs, and share them with other devices.

The final say is yours – we hope our Lowrance Hook Reveal 7 Review satisfied your curiosity.

FAQ

Does Lowrance Hook Reveal 7 have maps?

Yes. All Lowrance Hook Reveal 7 products offer map options that include 4,000 US lakes, C-Map countour+, GPS only, or preloaded maps.

Does Lowrance Hook reveal 7 have a side scan?

Yes. Lowrance Hook 7 TripleShot, for instance, comes in 2D and down imaging.

“Unleash your precision with the 22 cal air rifle 1400 fps: Experience unparalleled accuracy and power with our cutting-edge air rifle. Achieve incredible velocities of up to 1400 feet per second, ensuring superior performance for your shooting needs. Discover the perfect balance between control and force, making this rifle a must-have for any shooting enthusiast.”

22 cal air rifle 1400 fps

When it comes to power and precision, the 22 caliber air rifle with a velocity of 1400 feet per second (fps) stands out from the rest. This high-powered air rifle is designed to deliver exceptional accuracy and efficiency for shooting enthusiasts. Whether you are a seasoned hunter or a target shooter, this rifle offers the perfect combination of speed and accuracy to enhance your shooting experience.

The 22 cal air rifle with a velocity of 1400 fps is ideal for small game hunting and pest control. With its impressive muzzle energy, it can take down varmints and pests swiftly and humanely. Additionally, its high velocity allows for an extended effective range, making it suitable for longer distance shots. The precision-engineered rifling ensures consistent shot placement, allowing you to make accurate shots even at challenging distances.

Moreover, this air rifle is equipped with advanced features that enhance its performance. It may include features such as adjustable triggers, noise reduction technology, ergonomic stocks, and easy-to-use safety mechanisms. These features not only improve your shooting experience but also contribute to the overall comfort and convenience while handling the rifle.

In conclusion, the 22 cal air rifle with a velocity of 1400 fps offers superior accuracy and power for various shooting applications. Its high velocity ensures precise shots and efficient target penetration. With its compact design and ease of use, this air rifle proves to be a reliable choice for both beginners and experienced shooters alike.

You’ve decided to hatch your own chickens, but there are hundreds of egg incubators to choose from. How do you pick the best one for you?!

I’ve been hatching chicken eggs for years and have used several different incubators along the way. I’ve had great successes and failures, both of which I’ve learned a lot from.

Choosing the best egg incubator for you is a make or break decision. When it comes to incubators, you really do get what you pay for. However, that doesn’t mean you need to go buy a professional-grade incubator for $3,000.

In this comprehensive article, I break down 8 of the best egg incubators in 2024 for backyard or homestead chicken keepers. I’ll also provide direct links to the product so that you don’t have to go searching around!

Let’s jump in!

*Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links to products (including Amazon). I’ll earn a small commission if you make a purchase through my link, at no additional cost to you! Regardless, I only link to products that I personally use on our homestead or believe in.

Key Features of the Best Egg Incubators

Incubators come in a wide variety of options as far as size, style, features and price are concerned. It can be overwhelming just searching through them all. Let’s chat about the key features that I look for when shopping for the best egg incubators on the market.

Airflow

All incubators should have vents for air exchange (developing eggs are living and breathing!), but there are 2 types of airflow methods that are important to pay attention to: still-air and forced-air.

• Still-Air Incubator: This is the most basic form that you’ll find in cheap incubators. It relies on simple gravity to naturally circulate the air with a concept similar to a still room with no vents. This often produces hot and cold spots throughout the incubator, resulting in a poor hatch with some chicks hatching early, and some hatching late.
• Forced-Air Incubator: This type of incubator has a built-in fan to evenly distribute the warm, humid air. This results in all of your eggs developing similarly and often, a better overall hatch. Splurging for forced-air is worth every penny in my opinion.

Automated Temperature

This is absolutely critical. Just a 1 degree difference can impact your hatch.

• If it runs 1 degree high, you’ll have an early hatch with chicks prone to splayed legs and trouble walking.
• If it runs 1 degree low, you’ll have a late hatch with chicks prone to crooked toes, thin legs and unhealed navels.

Therefore, it’s helpful to have an incubator that automatically adjusts throughout the day to keep things stable. Such peace of mind! If your incubator has a manual turn dial for temperature and your room temperature goes up… your incubator temperature will also go up.

Tip #1: Verify that your incubator is forced-air or still-air. Forced-air incubators require a temperature of 99.5 degrees where still-air incubators require 102 degrees, however this is a general guideline and I would follow the instructions in your operating manual.

Tip #2: Make sure that you have several additional thermometers placed in your incubator (placed at the height of the top of the eggs) to confirm that your built-in thermometer is reading true. I like to use probe thermometers and poke them through a vent hole. It is common for cheap incubators to run hot or cold. I’ve definitely had my own share of hatch losses due to incorrectly calibrated thermometers!

Humidity Control

Humidity is one of the hardest things to get right, in my opinion. A lot of smaller egg incubators rely on manual addition of water to channels built into the bottom of the incubator. Not only is this easy to forget about and makes travel impossible, but it’s not very adjustable either. Plus, in most models, you need to open the incubator to make adjustments, which is not ideal during the hatch.

If you can find an incubator that automatically draws in and adjusts humidity based on your settings, it’s worth the extra cost. I’ve even gone on international vacations while my automatic incubators were running and could relax knowing they were taking care of it all for me 🙂

Thankfully, the success of the hatch weighs more heavily on overall humidity throughout the hatch and spikes aren’t as big of a deal. However, is important to get it right because:

• If humidity runs too high, then the egg doesn’t lose enough moisture resulting in large chicks that can drown at hatching time.
• If humidity runs too low, then the egg loses too much moisture resulting in “shrink-wrapped” chicks that fail to hatch.

I’ve found my hatch successes to vary even by adjusting the humidity by 3-5%! You’d never be able to achieve that precision with manual adjustments. To verify that your humidity setting is correct, I highly recommend buying TWO of these hygrometers (only $5!). The cheaper incubators are notorious for having poorly calibrated digital displays, so using these will make sure you’re on track.

Digital Display

This is a slick option so you can easily adjust the settings and quickly check the status of your incubator at any time. Most egg incubators today come with a digital display.

Egg Turner

In nature, a mother hen will periodically adjust her eggs and rotate them throughout the day. When incubating, this practice needs to be mimicked as much as possible because rotating allows the yolk to remain centered in the middle of the egg vs sticking to the side.

Chicken eggs need to be rotated from side-to-side a minimum of 3 times per day, every single day, for the first 18 days of the 21 day incubation period.

If this seems like too much for you, definitely invest in an incubator that has an automatic turner. I like this option because it means less opening of the incubator (resulting in temperature and humidity fluctuations), plus reduces the risk of accidental egg trauma.

Alarm

Some egg incubators feature an alarm that goes off anytime the temperature goes above or below your predetermined “safe zone.” This can alert you to intervene before things go south.

Capacity

There is no one right answer to this question; it all comes down to what is best for you. Incubators can be as small as holding just 5 eggs or they can hold hundreds!

Think about your goals and how many chicks you realistically want to hatch:

• If you live in the city and can only have 5 hens, go for a small size. Keep in mind that roughly 50% will end up being roosters; plus, your hatch rate will likely be 50-80%. Therefore, if you want to end up with 5 hens, I’d plan to incubate 20 eggs to be safe.
• If you live in the country and/or are thinking about routinely hatching chicks to sell them to your community as a side hobby, definitely go big! I started with a 28 egg incubator and rapidly outgrew that size.

My rule of thumb is to always go bigger than you think you need. Hatching is highly addicting and you’ll be expanding before you know it!

Ease of Cleaning

This is super important because hatching is messy and ensuring sanitary conditions for the next round is critical for its success. If your incubator doesn’t come apart easily, or if it is made of styrofoam (notorious for being hard to clean), then you’ll have trouble with this. Plastic is the best choice.

Viewing Window

This is not absolutely necessary, but it makes hatching so much more fun! When hatching starts, you’ll often find me with a chair pulled up and my nose pressed to the glass watching all of my new chicks hatch!

8 Best Egg Incubators in 2024

Now that you know what to look for, let’s get into some of the best egg incubators on the market! If you’re willing to purchase an incubator through my links below (at no additional cost to you!), I’ll make a small profit, which allows me to keep sharing content with you awesome people. Thank you!

8 Best Egg Incubators in 2024

Want more details about each of these incubators? No problem; I’ve got you covered!

#1 Brinsea Mini II EX

If your goal is to have a small backyard flock, look no further! Brinsea is my absolute favorite brand of incubator. All of their products are high quality, reliable, easy to clean and come with a 3 year warranty (as long as you register your product).

The Brinsea Mini II EX holds 7 eggs, so this is a great place to start. Brinsea has 3 lines for each incubator: Eco, Adv & EX. While the EX line is more expensive, it has fully automatic humidity control and is worth every penny in my opinion. I’ve gone on vacation with mine running and didn’t have to stress one bit!

#2 Brinsea Mini II Advance

While my favorite Brinsea incubator is the EX line, I know that not everyone wants to shell out hundreds of dollars on an incubator. Therefore, the Mini II Advance is another excellent option from this same dependable company. The reduction in price comes from the manual humidity control compared to the Mini II EX.

It still has automatic temperature control, an egg turner, a great viewing window and it’s easy to clean. You can even adjust the intervals that your eggs are turned from 15 to 180 minutes. This is a best-of-both-worlds option!

TIP: If you have plans to hatch duck eggs, look for a larger incubator. This one is a bit too small for ducklings.

#3 KEBONNIXS 12 Egg Incubator

Fertile eggs are often sold by the dozen, so the fact that this incubator holds 12 eggs is great! It has a digital display of humidity and temperature, however, I highly recommend verifying their accuracy by adding your own thermometer and hygrometer. While this model requires you to manually add water to control the humidity, it is nice that you can add water externally. No need to open the lid!

This model also features a built-in egg candler so you can watch your baby chicks develop. Plus, the egg turner automatically stops 3 days before the hatch so that you don’t have to remember to turn it off.

TIP: The flooring is slick and can result in the chicks slipping and injuring their legs, so consider adding a layer of traction material to the bottom.

#4 Brinsea Ovation 28 EX

The Brinsea Ovation 28 EX is my absolute favorite incubator. Hands down. I’ve been debating buying a second one just because I love it so much. It really is the perfect size and I’ve had excellent hatches every single time.

It is fully automatic so it’s a true “set it and forget it” kind of incubator. I’ve gone on international vacations with this thing running and I didn’t have to worry about it at all! All of the pieces come apart for easy cleaning and it has a big viewing window to watch the hatch.

The best part of this incubator is how accurate and precise it is. I’ve thrown multiple thermometers and hygrometers in there to cross-check and this incubator is calibrated perfectly. I love that I don’t have to fuss with it or worry that something is off.

TIP: Don’t feel like you need to buy fancy replacement humidity sponges from the supplier. I just cut up basic $2 kitchen sponges that I find at the grocery store and it works great!

#5 Manna Pro Nurture Right 360 Incubator

The Manna Pro Nurture Right 360 Incubator is a great budget pick if you want to hatch a decent number of eggs (it fits 22). It is fully automatic, with the exception of humidity control. You’ll need to manually add water yourself to keep it consistent. A nice feature is that it has a 21 day countdown and automatically stops turning the eggs 3 days before the hatch.

Based on the reviews, the negatives are that the turner tends to struggle to turn heavier eggs and it beeps loudly when the turner engages. The built-in egg candler is also pretty weak. Lastly, this incubator can be more challenging to clean.

TIP: Be careful when removing the lid. It can be easy for eggs or chicks to fall out because there is no lip on the edges.

#6 IncuView All-In-One Automatic Egg Incubator

This incubator provides an incredible hatching experience with its large viewing window. You won’t miss a thing!

While it doesn’t feature automatic humidity control like the Brinsea models, it does provide digital display of humidity. Based on the reviews, the humidity levels do seem to fluctuate widely and need daily tweaking to hit your goal. As I’ve mentioned before, don’t trust that number alone! Always add an extra hygrometer or two to make sure it’s properly calibrated.

#7 Brinsea Ovation 56 EX

This is the big brother to my favorite incubator the Brinsea Ovation 28 EX. It’s also fully automatic, but twice as big. If you’re really wanting to hatch lots of chicks, this is an excellent option if you have the space.

It is fully automatic so it’s a true “set it and forget it” kind of incubator. I’ve gone on international vacations with this thing running and I didn’t have to worry about it at all! All of the pieces come apart for easy cleaning and it has a big viewing window to watch the hatch.

The best part of this incubator is how accurate and precise it is. I’ve thrown multiple thermometers and hygrometers in there to cross-check and this incubator is calibrated perfectly. I love that I don’t have to fuss with it or worry that something is off.

TIP: Don’t feel like you need to buy fancy replacement humidity sponges from the supplier. I just cut up basic $2 kitchen sponges that I find at the grocery store and it works great!

#8 HovaBator Genesis 1588

This wouldn’t be a complete incubator list without the classic foam incubator. While I have a love-hate relationship with them, this is often where most of us begin our incubating journey! They can be finicky and definitely require multiple thermometers and hygrometers, but this is an inexpensive way to hatch a lot of eggs.

TIP: I highly recommend placing a minimum of TWO hygrometers and TWO external thermometers (reading at a height at the top of the eggs) to verify that everything is running as it should.

While there are a lot of foam incubators out there that look similar to the HovaBator Genesis 1588 (and are a bit cheaper), don’t get swayed by the other options. I know you saw that $50 one at Tractor Supply… don’t do it! Many of them are junk and there’s nothing more heartbreaking than losing an entire hatch. I spent some time digging into each one and this one really seems to be the best budget-friendly pick out of them all.

Other Articles You’ll Love:

• Hatching Chicken Eggs: The Ultimate Beginner’s Guide
• Candling Chicken Eggs: Day-By-Day Development
• Brooding in Poultry: Everything You Need to Know!
• How to Care for Chickens: A Beginner’s Guide

Summary

That was fun! I hope you found this helpful in picking the perfect incubator for you and your homestead. As you can see, egg incubators come in many different styles, features and price points and we only covered 7 of them! It’s a small investment, so definitely spend some time reflecting on my 8 best egg incubators table to really feel out which one seems like the right fit. You can’t go wrong with any of them, really!

Once your incubator arrives, read the instruction manual and let it run for a minimum of 24 hours. After 24 hours, make sure to double-check its accuracy by inserting additional thermometers and hygrometers. If your digital reading is off, adjust your settings as needed.

Are you curious how to actually go about incubating eggs? This article by Backyard Chickens is the exact one that I learned from years ago. Then, once your chicks hatch, you’ll definitely want to check out my best tips for Brooding in Poultry.

If you liked this article, you’ll definitely want to read my article Cooking a Rooster: The Basics for when you end up with extra roosters after hatching! It’s wonderful to keep a couple good roosters around, but keeping more than your flock can handle can lead to fights and stress on your hens.

Happy hatching! 🙂

As you embark on your quest for archery greatness, it’s important to remember that progress is achieved through consistent effort, learning, and adaptation. In this guide, we’ll take a look at the many facets of becoming a better archer, hopefully equipping you with the knowledge and tools you need to elevate your skills and even surpass your own expectations. So, prepare to unleash your inner archer as we embark on this transformative journey together.

Unlocking Your Archery Potential

Starting the journey to becoming a better archer can be a rewarding endeavor filled with excitement, challenges, and hopefully some personal growth. By dedicating yourself to the continuous improvement of your skills, you’ll not only experience the satisfaction of hitting your targets with greater accuracy but also discover a passion that can last a lifetime. This guide is designed to help you unlock your full archery potential, offering insights into techniques, equipment, and practice strategies that can elevate your performance.

Navigating the Guide

This guide is split up into several different sections, each focusing on the different aspects of personal archery improvement. From perfecting your form and technique to choosing the right equipment, developing a personalized practice routine, and harnessing the power of mental focus, we’ve got you covered. Additionally, you’ll find answers to common questions on improving in archery, tips on learning from the experts, and advice on competing and growing as an archer. So, let’s get started on your path to archery mastery!

The Foundations of Archery Excellence

Let’s begin by examining the foundations that underpin all successful archers: form and technique. Mastering these crucial aspects of archery will give you a solid base on which to build your skills and develop your own unique style. From the subtleties of stance and posture to the intricacies of aiming and releasing, we’ll guide you through the key elements of archery excellence, ensuring you’re well-equipped to hit the mark every time.

Stance and Posture: The Building Blocks

A solid foundation is key to becoming a better archer, and it all begins with your stance and posture. Try to keep your feet shoulder-width apart, with your non-dominant foot slightly forward. Distribute your weight evenly between both feet, and maintain a slight bend in your knees. Keep your back straight and your head up, creating a stable and well-balanced platform for shooting.

Proper posture not only improves your stability and balance but also promotes consistent shot execution. Remember to maintain this posture throughout your shot, as any changes can affect your aim and overall performance.

Get a Grip: Mastering Bow Control

Developing the correct grip on your bow is crucial for accurate shooting. Your grip should be relaxed and consistent, allowing the bow to sit comfortably in the groove between your thumb and index finger. Avoid gripping the bow too tightly, as this can cause torque and negatively impact your shot. Instead, keep your hand relaxed and let the bow’s riser rest against the pressure point at the base of your thumb.

With a relaxed grip, you’ll minimize the chances of introducing unwanted movement or inconsistencies in your shots. Practice maintaining a consistent grip to build muscle memory and ensure better bow control.

Drawing and Anchoring: Precision from Start to Finish

Drawing and anchoring your bow correctly are essential for shot consistency and accuracy. To draw your bow, extend your bow arm forward while pulling the string back with your other hand, keeping your elbow in line with the arrow. Gradually draw the string back until it reaches your anchor point, which is a consistent point of contact between your hand and your face. Common anchor points include the corner of your mouth or the tip of your nose.

It’s crucial to establish a consistent anchor point for every shot, as this will help ensure your aiming is steady and reliable. Practice drawing and anchoring smoothly to develop a reliable, precise shooting process.

Bulls-eye Aiming: Hitting the Mark Every Time

Aiming accurately requires focus, proper alignment, and a steady hand. To aim effectively, align your bow’s sight pin with your target while maintaining your anchor point. Keep your eye on the target, and focus on a small, specific point rather than the entire target face. Remember to breathe steadily and relax your muscles to minimize any unwanted movement.

As you release the arrow, follow through with a smooth and controlled motion, keeping your bow arm extended and your drawing hand moving along the same plane. Consistency in your aiming and release will help you hit the mark with greater accuracy, leading to improved performance over time. If you really want a crash course in aiming, stance and more, I’ve written a full guide about archery tips for accuracy, check it out to improve your shots.

Gear Up for Success

As you hone your archery skills, it’s crucial not to overlook the role that the right equipment plays in your success. With an array of bows, arrows, and accessories to choose from, finding the perfect combination for your needs and preferences can be a game-changer. Below, we’ll help you navigate the world of archery gear, offering insights and advice on selecting the ideal equipment to complement your abilities and enhance your performance. Together, we’ll ensure you’re fully prepared to tackle any challenge that comes your way.

Finding Your Bow Soulmate

Choosing the right bow is a personal decision based on your preferences, goals, and style. Let’s explore the different types of bows available, so you can find the perfect match for your archery journey.

Recurve Bows: The Classic Choice

Recurve bows are popular among beginners and Olympic archers alike. They feature a simple design with limbs that curve away from the archer when unstrung. Recurve bows offer a balance of power and control, making them a versatile option for target shooting, field archery, and even hunting. If you’re looking for a traditional archery experience with a proven track record, a recurve bow might be your ideal choice.

Compound Bows: High-tech Precision

Compound bows are a modern innovation that utilize a system of pulleys and cams to provide a mechanical advantage. This design allows for a smoother draw, increased accuracy, and reduced holding weight at full draw. Compound bows are often favored by hunters and archers seeking the highest level of precision. If you’re drawn to cutting-edge technology and desire unparalleled accuracy, a compound bow could be your perfect match.

Longbows: Embracing Tradition

Longbows are the quintessential traditional bow, boasting a rich history that dates back centuries. These bows have a simple, elegant design with a long, gently curved limb. Longbows require more physical strength and skill to shoot accurately, making them a popular choice among traditional archery enthusiasts. If you’re passionate about history and enjoy the challenge of mastering an ancient art, a longbow may be the bow for you.

Your Essential Archery Arsenal

Equipping yourself with the right accessories can make a significant difference in your archery experience. Here are some essential items to consider adding to your arsenal:

The Right Arrows for Your Bow

Arrows come in various materials, lengths, and spine stiffness, which can significantly impact their flight and accuracy. Choose arrows that are compatible with your bow’s draw weight and length, as well as your specific shooting needs. Don’t be afraid to experiment with different arrow types to find the ones that work best for you. I’ve written a complete guide all about what type of arrows you should use, check it out for all of the details.

Protecting Yourself: Armguards and Finger Tabs

As an archer, ensuring your safety and comfort during practice and competition is paramount. Two essential pieces of protective gear that can greatly enhance your shooting experience are armguards and finger tabs. These accessories not only protect you from injury but can also improve your shooting consistency.

Armguards are designed to shield your bow arm from potential string slaps that can occur if the bowstring grazes your arm upon release. They are typically made from durable materials such as leather, plastic, or fabric and are secured to your forearm with straps or elastic bands. Choosing the right armguard involves finding one that provides adequate coverage and a comfortable fit without restricting your movement.

Finger tabs, on the other hand, protect the fingers of your drawing hand from the friction and pressure generated by pulling the bowstring. These small, often leather, pieces are worn on your fingertips and create a barrier between your skin and the bowstring, reducing the risk of blisters and calluses. Finger tabs can also enhance your shooting consistency by providing a smooth and uniform surface for the string to slide off during release. When selecting a finger tab, consider factors such as the thickness of the material, the fit on your fingers, and any additional features like an adjustable finger spacer or ledge for anchoring.

By always investing in quality protective gear, you’ll be safeguarding yourself from injury and discomfort while promoting a more consistent and enjoyable archery experience.

Bowstrings and Nocking Points: Fine-tuning Your Equipment

Smart Shopping: Quality Meets Affordability

Common Questions on Improving in Archery

Along the path to becoming a better archer, questions and uncertainties are bound to arise. Addressing these common concerns and providing practical guidance can be instrumental in boosting your confidence and refining your skills. In this section, we’ll tackle some of the most frequently asked questions in the world of archery improvement, and hopefully give you some valuable insights and tips to help you overcome obstacles and continue your upward trajectory. With clarity and understanding, you’ll be well-equipped to navigate the challenges and triumphs that lie ahead.

From what distance is it best to practice in order to increase your accuracy?

When starting out, it’s best to practice from a shorter distance, typically around 10 to 20 yards. This allows you to focus on perfecting your form and technique without the added pressure of hitting distant targets. As you become more comfortable and consistent, gradually increase the distance to challenge yourself and further develop your accuracy. Ultimately, the best distance for practice will vary based on your individual skill level, goals, and the type of archery you’re pursuing.

How can I improve my archery at home?

Improving your archery skills at home is possible with the right approach and resources. Here are a few tips to help you practice effectively at home:

Create a safe shooting area: Ensure you have a clear, unobstructed space to shoot, and always use a suitable backstop to catch arrows. Here’s my guide all about how to build a backyard archery range.

Focus on your form: Use a mirror or video recordings to assess and refine your stance, grip, and drawing technique.

Strength training: Work on building your core, back, and shoulder muscles, which are essential for archery performance.

Stretching and flexibility: Incorporate stretches that target the muscles used in archery to improve your range of motion and prevent injuries. Here are 15 exercises for archery that’ll really up your game.

Mental training: Practice visualization techniques and breathing exercises to enhance your mental focus and manage performance anxiety.

How many arrows should I shoot a day?

The number of arrows you should shoot daily depends on your skill level, goals, and available time. For beginners, shooting 30 to 50 arrows per session is a good starting point. More advanced archers may shoot between 100 to 300 arrows daily to maintain and refine their skills. The key is to focus on quality over quantity: prioritize proper form and technique, and avoid overtraining to prevent injuries. As with any sport, it’s important to listen to your body and adjust your practice routine accordingly.

Crafting Your Personalized Practice Plan

Developing a personalized practice plan is a crucial aspect of your growth as an archer. A well-structured and targeted routine will not only help you build and reinforce your skills but also foster a deep sense of commitment and discipline. Below, we’ll delve into the process of designing a practice plan that aligns with your goals, incorporates effective drills, and emphasizes the importance of rest and recovery. With a tailored approach, you’ll be on the fast track to achieving all of your archery related aspirations.

Mapping Your Archery Journey

Creating a customized practice plan tailored to your needs and aspirations is crucial for steady progress in archery. Start by identifying your short-term and long-term goals, and then break them down into manageable, achievable steps. Be realistic about the time you can commit to practice, and consider incorporating a mix of technical training, strength and flexibility exercises, and mental skills development into your routine.

Aiming High: Setting and Achieving Goals

Goal setting is a powerful tool for staying motivated and tracking your progress in archery. Set SMART goals (Specific, Measurable, Achievable, Relevant, and Time-bound) to provide a clear path to improvement. Monitor your progress regularly and adjust your goals as needed to ensure they remain challenging and relevant to your evolving skills.

Drills That Make a Difference

Incorporating effective drills into your practice routine can help you hone specific skills as well as enhance your overall performance. Consider trying out the following drills:

Blank bale shooting: Blank bale shooting involves practicing your shots at a close distance, typically 5-10 feet, without a target face. This drill helps archers focus on their form, release, and follow-through without the distraction of aiming. By concentrating solely on technique, you can develop consistent and accurate shooting habits that will translate to better performance when aiming at targets.

Endurance shooting: Endurance shooting drills involve shooting a high volume of arrows in a single session, building both physical and mental stamina. These drills help improve muscle memory, increase shooting endurance, and develop mental resilience under fatigue. Remember to maintain proper form and technique during endurance shooting to prevent injury and reinforce good habits.

Various distances: Practicing at various distances is essential for developing adaptability and improving accuracy across different shooting scenarios. Start at shorter distances, gradually increasing the range as you become more comfortable and accurate. This drill helps you understand how your sight picture and aiming techniques change with distance, ultimately making you a more versatile and confident archer.

Pressure drills: Pressure drills simulate high-stress situations, such as competition or hunting scenarios, to help archers improve their focus and performance under pressure. Examples of pressure drills include shooting with a time limit, competing against a partner, or setting specific scoring goals. By exposing yourself to pressure situations in practice, you’ll be better prepared to handle nerves and maintain focus during real-life events.

By incorporating these drills into your practice routine, you can target specific areas of your archery skills and make meaningful progress toward becoming a better archer.

How to Shoot Better Groups with a Bow

Consistently shooting tight arrow groups is a sign of excellent technique and accuracy. To improve your groupings, focus on the following aspects:

Consistent anchor points: Developing consistent anchor points is crucial for achieving accuracy and repeatability in your shots. Drills that emphasize finding and maintaining a reliable anchor point help reinforce muscle memory, allowing you to reproduce the same shooting motion every time. Practice drawing and anchoring your bow with your eyes closed, focusing on the feeling of your anchor point, and then open your eyes to check your alignment.

Smooth release: A smooth release is vital for accurate shooting, as any tension or jerking motion can disrupt your arrow’s flight path. To practice a smooth release, focus on maintaining a relaxed grip and using a consistent release aid, such as a finger tab or mechanical release. Work on releasing the string with a gentle and controlled motion, ensuring that your follow-through is consistent and relaxed.

Bow tuning: Regular bow tuning ensures that your equipment is performing optimally, which in turn improves your shooting accuracy and consistency. Bow tuning involves checking and adjusting various aspects of your bow, such as brace height, tiller, and limb alignment. By becoming familiar with the tuning process and making necessary adjustments, you can maintain your equipment’s peak performance and prevent shooting inconsistencies.

Patience and practice: Becoming a better archer requires patience and consistent practice. Dedicate time to honing your skills, focusing on specific aspects of your technique, and learning from your mistakes. Embrace the process and understand that progress may be slow, but with dedication and perseverance, you’ll see steady improvement in your shooting abilities.

Rest and Recovery: The Forgotten Keys to Improvement

Rest and recovery are essential components of any successful training plan. Schedule regular rest days to allow your muscles to recover and prevent overtraining. Listen to your body, and consider incorporating activities like yoga, meditation, and deep breathing exercises to promote relaxation and mental focus. Remember, balance is key to sustained growth and long-term success in archery.

Mind Over Matter: Mental Strategies for Archery Success

While physical skills and techniques are critical components of archery success, the power of the mind should never be underestimated. Cultivating mental strength and resilience can give you a significant edge when it comes to performing under pressure and overcoming challenges. In this section, we’ll take a look at a few mental strategies to help you build an unshakable mindset, harness the power of visualization, and conquer any performance anxiety. By embracing these techniques, you’ll be poised to unlock your full potential and excel in even the most demanding situations.

Building an Unshakable Mindset

A strong mindset is a crucial element of archery success. Cultivate a growth mindset by embracing challenges, learning from setbacks, and focusing on the process rather than just the outcome. Develop a pre-shot routine to help you mentally prepare for each shot and maintain consistency in your performance. Positive self-talk and affirmations can also reinforce your belief in your abilities and keep self-doubt at bay.

Picture This: The Power of Visualization

Visualization is a proven mental technique used by many top athletes to enhance their performance. By mentally rehearsing your shots and envisioning yourself hitting the target, you can train your brain to execute the desired movements more effectively. Practice visualization daily, both during your practice sessions and in your downtime, to reinforce positive mental images and improve your confidence on the shooting line.

Keep Calm and Shoot On: Conquering Performance Anxiety

Performance anxiety is common in archery, but it doesn’t have to hold you back. Learn to manage your nerves by incorporating relaxation techniques, such as deep breathing exercises and progressive muscle relaxation, into your routine. Focus on the present moment and avoid overthinking your shots. Embrace competition as an opportunity to grow and learn, and remember that even the most accomplished archers experience nerves from time to time.

Learn from the Pros: Their Experience Can Up Your Game

Learning from experienced archers and immersing yourself in the wider archery community can be a transformative experience, offering invaluable insights, inspiration, and camaraderie. Below, we’ll discuss the benefits of seeking professional coaching, attending workshops and clinics, and connecting with fellow archers both online and offline. By embracing these opportunities, you’ll not only expand your knowledge and refine your skills, but also find support and motivation to fuel your passion for the sport.

The Value of Professional Coaching

Working with a professional archery coach can greatly accelerate your progress and help you to really refine your skills. A coach can provide personalized guidance, identify areas for improvement, and offer invaluable insights from their own experience. Look for a certified coach through your local archery club or governing body and consider investing in regular coaching sessions to maximize your potential.

Sharpen Your Skills: Archery Workshops and Clinics

Attending archery workshops and clinics is another excellent way to expand your knowledge and improve your skills. These events typically cover a range of topics, from equipment selection and tuning to advanced shooting techniques and mental strategies. Keep an eye out for workshops and clinics hosted by experienced archers or coaches in your area, and seize the opportunity to learn from their expertise.

Your Archery Tribe: Connecting with the Community

Connecting with other archers can provide invaluable support, motivation, and camaraderie on your journey to becoming a better archer. Join a local archery club or participate in online forums and social media groups to share your experiences, exchange tips, and stay up-to-date on the latest developments in the sport. By immersing yourself in the archery community, you’ll gain access to a wealth of collective knowledge and inspiration to fuel your growth.

Rising to the Challenge: Archery Competitions

Competing in archery tournaments is a thrilling and rewarding way to test your skills, push your limits, and learn from both your successes and setbacks. In this section, we’ll look at the world of archery competitions, highlighting the importance of local and regional tournaments as stepping stones to higher-level challenges. We’ll also discuss the benefits of participating in competitions, as well as strategies for evaluating your performance and adapting your approach for continued growth. Embrace the excitement of competition and prepare to rise to the challenge on your journey to archery mastery.

Stepping Stones: Local and Regional Tournaments

Participating in local and regional archery tournaments is a fantastic way to put your skills to the test and gain valuable competition experience. These events provide a supportive and friendly environment where you can learn from fellow archers and measure your progress against others. Check with your local archery club or governing body for a schedule of upcoming tournaments, and don’t be afraid to take the plunge and sign up!

Embrace the Thrill: Why Competitions Matter

Competing in archery tournaments offers numerous benefits for your development as an archer. It exposes you to the unique pressures and challenges of competition, which can help you hone your mental skills and learn to perform at your best under pressure. Competing also provides opportunities to learn from other archers, gain inspiration, and forge new friendships within the archery community. Embrace the thrill of competition as an essential part of your growth as an archer.

Reflect, Refine, Repeat: Learning from Your Performance

After each competition, take the time to reflect on your performance and identify areas for improvement. Analyze your shooting technique, equipment setup, and mental approach, and seek feedback from coaches, peers, or even video recordings of your performance. Use this information to refine your practice routine and set new goals for your next competition. Remember, every competition is an opportunity to learn and grow as an archer, so keep striving for continuous improvement.

Putting It All Together

Becoming a better archer is not merely about mastering individual skills; it’s about embracing a holistic approach that encompasses technique, equipment, practice routines, mental strategies, knowledge, first hand experience and more.

Throughout your archery journey, you’ll encounter challenges and triumphs, but with dedication, adaptability, and passion, you can transform your archery skills and reach new heights of achievement. Remember to always be open to learning, refining, and evolving, as this is the key to unlocking your full potential in the sport you love. And as you continue to push your boundaries, take a moment to appreciate the incredible progress you’ve made and the exciting opportunities that await you on the road to archery mastery.

Keep Aiming Higher: Your Journey Continues

As you continue on your archery journey, always remember that improvement is a lifelong process. Keep setting new goals, refining your skills, and seeking out opportunities to learn and grow. Embrace the support and camaraderie of the archery community, and most importantly, enjoy the thrill of the sport. With persistence and passion, there’s no limit to how far you can go as an archer. Keep aiming higher, and let your journey to mastery continue.

Description and Range:

Adult white-tailed deer are about three feet tall at the front shoulders. Maryland yearling bucks (males) weigh an average of 105 pounds; yearling does (females) average 90 pounds. During the warm months, deer possess reddish-brown hair. A grayish-brown coat with a thick undercoat replaces the reddish hair during the cold time period. The white-tailed deer’s distinctive white tail and white rump patch is readily visible when they bound away from real or perceived danger. White-tailed deer sprint up to 35 miles per hour and are able to leap over 8 foot tall barriers.

Only white-tailed bucks possess antlers. In extremely rare cases, does may grow antlers. Bucks use their hard antlers to establish dominance over other bucks during breeding season. Antlers are grown and shed each year. Antlers, which are composed of true bone, begin to grow in late March and early April. The growing antlers are covered with skin and blood vessels called velvet.

White-tailed deer can be found in every county in Maryland. White-tailed deer are also common throughout much of the United States, southern Canada and even parts of central America.

Doe (left) by John White and a buck withvelvet antlers (right), by Kerry Wixted

Habitat:

Maryland white-tailed deer habitat includes most of the state except for open water and intensely developed urban areas (e.g. downtown Baltimore). Deer thrive in landscapes with wooded/brush sections and open areas such as cropland, pasture or landscaped yards. Deer use the wooded areas for food and cover, and open areas provide food. Landscapes with an abundance of edge habitat (areas where forested and open habitat meet) support prime deer habitats. Because of this, suburban sprawl creates ideal habitat conditions for white-tailed deer. When forested areas are converted into housing developments, portions are cleared for roads and home sites, while other sections remain forested. When open farmland is transformed into residential areas, new homeowners plant trees, shrubs and perennials. Both of these types of residential conversions provide excellent deer habitat. To learn more about managing deer damage, then click here.

The typical, annual average home range for white-tailed deer is considered about one square mile (640 acres). However, the sex and age of the deer and habitat types will influence varying size home ranges. Yearling males will move many miles while adult females usually have smaller stable, annual home ranges. Deer in good quality habitat will need to travel less than deer in poor quality habitat.

Diet:

Deer feed on nuts and berries, leaves, woody shoots and stems, grasses and cultivated crops. Some of their favorite natural foods include acorns, honeysuckle, poison ivy, green briar, young tree seedlings and mushrooms. Soybeans, corn and ornamental shrubs are several of their favorite foods planted by humans.

Deer have a four-chambered stomach that is required to digest the vegetation. Food first travels to the rumen that contains the bacteria and protozoans, which begin the digestive process. The reticulum circulates food back to the mouth so that the deer can chew the food again. The omasum functions as a pump and directs the partially digested food from the reticulum to the abomasum. This final chamber functions as a true stomach and completes the digestive process. Because of this special digestion process, it is generally not recommended to feed deer during the winter. Click here to view White-tailed Deer Facts​.

Reproduction:

Maryland white-tailed deer begin breeding in October and continue to breed through mid December. The shortening of day length (photo period) triggers the breeding season. Most does become pregnant during the first half of November. Because white-tailed deer are polygamous, one dominant buck can breed numerous does. Any receptive doe that does not become pregnant will cycle back into estrous (heat) in about 28 days and will mate again.

Fawns (baby deer) are born during May and June after a gestation period of about 200 days. Yearling does usually give birth to single fawns. Mature does in good physical condition frequently produce twins.

Newborn spotted fawns remain hidden and solitary for about three weeks. The doe visits her young only two to three times per day in order to nurse and groom the offspring. When the fawn is strong enough to run with the doe, it will follow its mother and begin to sample foods eaten by the doe. Fawns can live independently of their mother at about two months old.

Sounds:

Deer typically make three different types of sounds: alarm, maternal, reproductive.

Alarm calls help to warn other deer of real or perceived danger. When a deer is surprised, it will snort by forcing out air rapidly from the nostrils. When fawns or young adults are captured by a predator or trapped, they will make a bleating or groaning sound.

Does also use low grunts to communicate with her young and to maintain contact. Fawns respond with a mew like sound. Fawns will also use bleats to get attention from the maternal doe. Communication between does and young help to maintain a close pair bond.

During the breeding season, bucks make grunt sounds while searching for receptive does and while tending does. Bucks also advertise their presence to prospective does and potential competitive bucks with grunts of varying pitch and volume.

Behavior:

Bucks are often solitary creatures aside from the breeding season and occasionally during the summer when they form bachelor bands. In the breeding season, bucks will actively seek out females to mate with as well as spar with other males to fight for the rights to breed.

Does, on the other hand, can often be seen traveling together particularly in the winter when food tends to be scarce. Often, fawns will remain with their mothers through the winter and into early spring. Typically, young bucks leave their mothers earlier than young does.

Management:

White-tailed deer are primarily managed by hunting in Maryland. Click here to learn more about hunting as an effective tool for white-tailed deer management. Click here to learn more about white-tailed deer management, in general.

For an information sheet on common deer sign, please click here​.

Photo Acknowledgements:

• Doe by John White
• Buck with velvet by Kerry Wixted
• Fawn by Kerry Wixted

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BY ROBERT RIPLEY

In June of 2021, I was shocked to learn I had drawn an Idaho moose tag for the 2021 season. I quickly found the outfitter that held the permit for the unit I was to hunt — Broadmouth Canyon Ranch, which runs a famous high fence elk hunting program. They do own a large amount of land that is fair chase property. Little did I know, I was going to go on a hunt that was almost perfect.

Because of prior hunts in early in October, I got to the lodge on October 28. News of my moose tag had proceeded me. When I entered, I was an instant celebrity. All of the elk hunters wanted to talk about moose hunting and my tag. We all oohed and aahed at the moose head that hung over the fireplace.

My guide Tate and I met at breakfast well before sunrise. He said he knew a couple of places that should hold moose. We would be glassing off of some ridges. I pointed out that this was my first moose hunt and no clue what to look for. He said we would be hunting the Shiras moose, which is the smallest moose in North America, and that a good bull would have ten points on both sides.

We rode a side-by-side on dirt roads I will never find again. It was well below freezing and we had no windows on the side by side so warm gear was necessary. After a cold ride we came up on a ridge, made a hard left then slammed on the brakes. Tate pointed to my right where two cow moose stood 25 yards from us. They were not spooked, they just stood and stared. This had to be a good omen, right?

We turned around to find somewhere we would not spook them. We began glassing as the light of dawn creeped over the mountains. We glassed an area of deep canyons that stretched for miles. I’ve hunted wild hogs in California for years. It’s not unusual to glass a pig that turns out to be a burned out log so when I saw black that is what I assumed. But everything black was a moose, 13 in all, 9 that were bulls. There were two that looked big to me. Tate said I could shoot one of them on Wednesday if we had not found one bigger, and that was two days away.

We left that ridge to glass a new one. There were not as many moose but one looked good a couple miles away. Then Tate got excited. He said the one he could see was enormous. He got out his spotting scope and hooked up a camera so we could see it easier. It was indeed bigger than anything we have seen so far. He was feeding on a nob about a mile and a half away. Initially Tate wanted to wait for him to bed down. But that idea lasted a whole two minutes. He said, “Let’s kill that monster!”

We would not see the moose for the stalk down. We had the wind in our faces. We worked our way down a steep canyon wall. At the base of the wall was a long grove of dead trees that extended at least a mile down the canyon. Just outside of the trees was a game trail that rivaled the lanes of the highways I had used to get to the lodge. I’m five foot, nine inches, at best, and Tate played center for his college basketball team. It took almost two of my strides to match his one. He was pumped up with adrenaline and we made great time.

There were two nobs, one closer to us and one where the moose was. We stopped at the base of the first one and made a plan as we shucked off our jackets and backpacks. We would slowly climb to the top of the first nob, set up the shooting sticks and should have a 100-yard shot. We did exactly as planned, but the moose wasn’t involved in our planning. He was not there. It was comical as Tate and I looked for him then looked at each other. We did not think he had busted us because he could not have seen or smelled us.

Our new plan was to quietly and slowly climb the second nob while looking over both sides to see if he had wandered off. We climbed the second nob as planned, Tate was to my right just forward of me. At 61 years old, you find that you will trip over any little thing — roots of bushes, rocks, blades of grass, you get it. As I walk, I look forward every couple of steps to find those things that can trip me. As I scanned the ground in front of me, I looked up. There was six inches of moose antler over a bush right in front of me. I whispered, firmly, “Tate!” That’s all it took, we both dropped to the ground.

Tate asked me if I was comfortable shooting freehand? I’ve done it but I didn’t want to mess up a shot on possibly my only moose. He quietly set up the shooting sticks. He said to shoot fast as the moose will probably see me. With my adrenaline sky high I squatted behind the shooting sticks, place the muzzle of my rifle on the V of the sticks, took a deep breath and stood up slowly. As I stood I pushed the rifle forward on the sticks, bringing the rifle up to my shoulder, he did look at me as I put my eye to the scope, clicked off my safety and fired. He dropped where he stood. No steps, no running, just dropped dead.

Tate and I cheered. We jumped up and down, fist pumped and high fived. As we walked up to the moose I realized how big he was. Much larger than any elk I have ever harvested. Tate and I oohed and awed. Tate said it was the biggest ever harvested on the ranch — it was 11 by 11. It was much larger than the one over the fireplace at the lodge.

It green scored at 160 inches. After the 90-day drying period required by Boone and Crockett, it measured at 152 7/8 inches, the Idaho state record is 150 inches.

One of the most common questions we get at M.O.R.R. is, “What is the best ham radio to get?”. Which is like answering the question from your tailor of whether you dress to the left or to the right. (Btw, the correct answer is “Yes”) There are literally hundreds of awesome ham radios on the market that will do long range communications extremely well.

The big players in the radio industry are Icom, Yaesu, Kenwood, Alinco, and now Baofeng. Each company will have ham radios very similar in functionality to each other, but with slight stylistic differences. What you get to figure out is what functionalities do you want in your ham radio.

Chances are, you are just starting into ham radio and you have no clue what possibilities are even out there. So, we will help you narrow it down. We are going to go over such things as what you are doing with the ham radio, budgets, functionalities, and, in Part 2, some great ham radios that we have found work well to get you going.

Step 1: What is your Ham Radio Purpose?

First off, you need to ask yourself, “What am I going to be using the ham radio for?”. Are you going to be hiking and camping? So you may need something portable, preferably with an antenna already built into it like an HT (Handie Talkie! Think of a walkie talkie… but a little more complicated).

Maybe you are going to be backpacking away from a vehicle. So, you may want something lightweight, weather proof, and a little more power since you might be in some more remote locations.

Do you want something to install in your vehicle? Do you volunteer with a Search and Rescue team? Maybe you want something to put in your house so you can monitor nearby ham radio repeaters or trails? All of these things are going to impact what ham radio you ultimately choose. So figure out what purpose you are trying to fill before moving on to the next step.

Step 2: What Functionalities Are You Looking For In Your Ham Radio?

Ham Radio – Bands

One of the great things about ham radio as a hobby, is that there is very little oversight. Hobbyists are encouraged to dream up and create whatever they can come up with. This means that some pretty cool features make their way into ham radios sold to the mass public.

Starting at the basic things to look for, you will want to look at what band(s) the radio will operate on. Does it only operate on 2meter? Does it only operate on 70cm? Does it operate on 2m and 70cm? Maybe 3 bands? The best way to figure out your needs is figure out what ham radio repeaters are in the area that you get lost in the most.

On the left coast, 2meter repeaters are everywhere, but there are still some areas that are only covered by 70cm. On the east coast, there are more options of ham radio repeaters. The 1.25m and 6m bands are becoming more popular for backwoods adventures. (A Band is just a section of radio spectrum that tells you what frequency range the radio can operate on)

Ham Radio – Dual VFO

Having a “Dual Band” radio will go a long way to ensure that you can hit a ham radio repeater in an emergency situation. However, do not confuse “Dual Band” with “Dual VFO”. Dual VFO means that a ham radio can listen to and monitor 2 different frequencies at one time. All Dual VFO radios are Dual Band, but not all Dual Band radios are Dual VFO. Just because you can operate on two different bands, doesn’t necessarily mean you can operate on 2 different bands simultaneously.

As people who get lost regularly, we highly recommend getting a Dual VFO Ham Radio such as the Alinco DJ 500T, TYT TH-7800 Mobile Ham Radio, or the Icom IC2730A Mobile Ham Radio. Having the ability to monitor 2 frequencies simultaneously will allow you to monitor a repeater and talk to your buddies on simplex at the same time. Or listen to 2 separate ham repeaters at one time for when someone calls in.

Ham Radio – Power

How much power does the radio operate at? Most ham radio handhelds will transmit around 5 watts of power. Most mobile ham radios will operate around 50 watts of power. Most home ham radios (or base ham radios) will operate around 100 watts of power. You can find some bulletproof mobile ham radios that operate at more than 50 watts, but they will generally only be single banded like the Yaesu 3200 or Kenwood TM-281A.

You can also find a couple of ham radio handhelds out there, like the Baofeng BF-8HP 8W that do more than 5watts of power, but then you start sacrificing battery life and will need to carry extra batteries. Which, may be worth it if you are backpacking and need the extra range of more power.

Ham Radio – Crossband Repeat

One of the more useful ham radio features for the backwoods adventurer, is crossband repeat. Crossband Repeat allows you to turn your mobile ham radio into a mobile repeater! This is awesome for hiking and camping adventures. Or if you help out running communications for a bike race, or race of some sort.

A regular ham radio repeater will take your incoming signal and boost it out from a higher elevation, at a higher power. This effectively increases the range of your signal by as much as 300 miles! Sometimes though, if you are going on a day hike, you may venture outside of the signal range of your 5watt ham radio handheld as you get down into a valley near a river.

You can start the day by parking your vehicle on the ridge, and hike down into the valley. As long as your handheld ham radio can hit your vehicle, then with crossband repeat, your vehicle can then hit a repeater using its 50 watts. The repeater in return talks to your vehicle, which then talks to you off on your hike or geocaching adventure. We use this feature all the time on our TYT TH-7800 Mobile Ham Radio and Icom IC2730A Mobile Ham Radio.

Ham Radio – APRS

One great function for people that are like us and get lost regularly, is GPS. Having a GPS built into your ham radio opens up a whole new world to you called APRS (Automatic Packet Reporting System). APRS is a complex system that takes your GPS coordinates, and reports them to the internet via mini APRS repeaters called digipeaters. Digipeaters are usually placed in key locations, like mountain tops or high elevation ridges. So, if you can get yourself to the top of a ridge or mountain, you have a very high chance to hitting a digipeater.

Having your GPS coordinates and GPS track posted to the internet can come in handy when venturing out away from cell reception. If loved ones or a search and rescue team need to come find you, they will have your last known coordinates and know where to start looking.

Along with your coordinates, APRS can also send emails, send out broadcasted bulletins to others in your vicinity, and text messages!

The Garmin InReach is a neat unit that will send text messages via GPS satellites, but it charges you a monthly fee to do so. APRS works in the same way, but it also does a little more. The only down side to APRS enabled ham radios, is they will cost a little more (50-100$), but, 100% worth it when you need it.

The Kenwood TH-D72A Is an awesome outdoor, IP54 weatherproof ham radio handheld with APRS built in. And the Icom ID-5100 Mobile Ham Radio is perhaps our favorite mobile radio on the market.

Ham Radio – Repeater Book and Programming

Some other great functionalities are repeater directories and ease of programming repeaters. There is an app you can get on your phone called Repeater Book (iPhone, Android). This app has a massive directory of every repeater in the United States. The app will take your GPS coordinates from your phone and list the nearest repeaters to you.

You can then export repeaters over to your radio if it is bluetooth enabled! If you hate programming repeaters (they can be a pain! Which is why we offer our Ham Radio Programming service!), then check out some mobile ham radios like the Yaseu FTM-100DR for a nice, clean, dual band radio. Or check out the Icom 7100 Mobile Ham Radio for an all band, 100w radio that works great in vehicles.

Or, you can check out one of our favorites, the Icom ID-5100 Mobile Ham Radio and its ability to come with a repeater directory built in from the factory. It will then take your coordinates and automatically select the repeater closest to you! Very cool technology.

Ham Radio – Digital or Analog

A big question that has become more of a topic in the past couple of years is, “Do I want a digital or Analog ham radio?” If you are going to be doing any kind of backwoods adventuring, we highly recommend to stay away from digital only radios like Yaseu’s C4FM, or Icom’s D-Star. In flat lands and cities, digital works amazing. You get an always crisp, clean, clear signal no matter how far you get from the repeater or the other person you are talking to.

Analog will fade in quality as you get further away from the repeater. This sounds great in theory, but the problem is that when you do venture far enough away from the repeater that you can no longer hit it, with digital, you simply drop signal. It is like a switch, there is only on or off.

If you are in the backwoods, hiking or backpacking, this can be a huge issue because you will not get any warning when your signal is going to drop. And, if you are not paying close attention, you may not be able to figure out which direction to go in order to get your signal back.

With analog, your signal will start fading and you will be able to know when you are reaching the edge of your signal. Having a ham radio like the Yaesu FTM-100DR that does both digital and analog, can be really nice to have.

There are a few other functionalities and options that ham radios will have. Some of them include the ability to take a picture, and then send it via radio waves to someone. You can also have hands free bluetooth capabilities in your vehicle radios. You can have full colored displays with maps that overlay your gps coordinates. There are waterproof and shockproof radios. And more.

Continue onto What Ham Radio Should I Get Part 2 to see our favorite beginner ham radio picks, why we like them so much, and why you need them in your adventurous life right meow!

Step 3: The Ham Radio Options!

That’s it for Part 1! This ended up going on longer than we anticipated, so head to Part 2 to see Step 3: The Ham Radio Options! and what our radio recommendations are for the outdoors adventurer!

Continue to What Ham Radio Should I Get Part 2!

Thank you for reading! Feel free to leave any comments or questions below! If you want to keep in touch with us when we add new content, join our newsletter! We do special offers that only show up in the newsletter, so make sure you sign up below!

You can also join the community forums and ask questions and see what adventures everyone else is up to!

Join the Off Road Ham Radio Community!

Also, if you don’t have your Ham Radio Technician License, head over to our Online Ham Radio Class and study up! Remember, 15% of your class registration goes back to one of our partners!

And, of course, don’t forget to check out our MORRFlate 4 Tire Off Road Inflation Deflation™ Kit!

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