Ask any turkey hunter, whether he’s a novice or a seasoned veteran, what his meaning of the perfect spring gobbler hunt is, and nine times out of 10 his tainted version will paint a picture sort of like this….

“Well, year before last I had seen this big ol’ bird in the field bottom fuzzed up with a bunch of hens. I mean you could near about see him him any time you wanted to venture across that pine ridge to where you could see the whole field. I figured that he has to be roosting somewhere around the creek as it fed into the beaverpond.

“So one night I told my wife that I had a good mind to go see if I could kill that gobbler the next morning. I didn’t do a real good job of figuring what time it was going to get light enough to see cause I got to the top of that pine ridge and the sky hadn’t even begun to break yet. So I was sitting there catching my breath when, dad burn, if that bird didn’t gobble just down the hill at the end of the field.

“I eased down the hill toward him about 50 more yards and set up by a big ol’ rotten pine treetop that had fallen during a bad ice storm that winter. I mean that bird was gobblin’ up a storm by now. And it was just starting to get light. I hadn’t heard a hen yet, but I gave him something to gobble about when I hit that box call with three or four little yelps. I think he forgot to take a breath cause he gobbled twice in a row. Directly he flew down and landed about 30 yards from me and went into a full strut. When he lifted his head, I let him have it with both barrels.”

Sound familiar? You bet it does! Unfortunately, these textbook encounters seem to happen only to the friends of mine who take a lackadaisical attitude into the woods with them in the spring. All my buddies who really get after the longbeards and study turkey hunting as if it were a college algebra class usually recant their first dual of the day as only a very rewarding, learning experience where the only student was the hunter and the teacher happened to be a wily gobbler that left class early with a bunch of his girlfriends.

All of us turkey hunters have experienced the time when all of our heart and soul was involved in the hunt as we set up on a roosted bird at daylight, only to be totally discouraged in our calling and hunting abilities as Casanova merrily made his way through the forest with his harem, paying no attention to the deliberate approach, crafty setup and finely honed calling sequences. The rest of the morning just seemed to follow a time-tested ritual: a half-hearted march back toward the truck stopping only occasionally to vent our frustrations by making a weak stab at finding another turkey. “It’s getting too hot anyway, I think I’ll grab a biscuit and go fishing.”

It is at this very time of the day that the most successful turkey hunters, the ones that regularly fill their tags every year, have only begun to get excited about the day’s hunt.

Why? The more we learn about the behavior patterns of the wild turkey during the spring, through harvest data, radio telemetry studies of gobblers and just plain old hunting experience, the more we find that the absolute best time to kill a gobbler is between the hours of 9 a.m. and 1 p.m.

Let’s take a look at what goes on in the turkey woods during this time of day and what makes it so productive. I visited with some experienced Georgia turkey hunters who have become quite good at calling in longbeards on a regular basis.

Being in the woods a lot during the entire year is not a problem for Mike Hunt, of West Point. Mike is a timber cruiser for Jones Woodyard in LaGrange and is constantly on the go around a several-county area as he cruises, marks and bids on tracks of timber. “Big Mike” became well-known in central Georgia for his deer hunting and fishing abilities, but during the last five years, he has enjoyed his share of success chasing gobblers. What is Mike’s favorite time of day to kill a bird? Just ask him.

“I have had by far most of my luck during my lunch break. I am at an advantage over most folks because come lunchtime I am usually real close to a piece of property that I have permission to turkey hunt on. I have to be at the woodyard most mornings at 8 a.m., so my early morning hunting before work is very short. I don’t usually have a problem knowing where to go to hear a bird on the roost at daylight but almost always he has hens with him early on, especially during April. So what I like to do is set up on him as normal, and even if he doesn’t come my way, I’ll get a fix on which way he’s headed. If I am around that area two to five hours later, I’ll slip in quietly and hit him with some excited cutts from my box call.

Mike’s strategies have been formulated through a lot of trial and error, like giving up on a bird and not trying him until the following day. His new-found tactics for success are simple. Give the bird time to court his hens and eventually they’ll leave him for their nests. The lovesick tom is content a lot of times to strut in his home range waiting for the hens to return later in the day.

“When I first started turkey hunting and knew very little about turkeys and their habits, especially gobblers, I only hunted at daybreak. Eventually I killed a few birds but most mornings I just couldn’t compete with all the hens. Now, I would say that if I had to choose one particular time of day that I was allowed to go into the woods after a longbeard, there’s no doubt it would be during the middle of the day.”

Laughing, Mike added, “I’m not a world-championship caller by any means, but I’ll tell you, a lonely gobbler can make a good caller out of me.”

Mike has also seen the sport of turkey hunting grow at a very fast pace. Naturally, he sees the disadvantage of having to compete with other hunters now more than ever for a good turkey, but with his midday tactics, Mike has found a way to take advantage of the early morning pressure.

“I honestly feel that with your turkey populations getting hunted harder and harder every year, and the vast majority of the hunting pressure taking place during the first three hours of daylight, their instincts are beginning to tell them that responding to the call of a hen first thing in the morning can be risky business. But on the flip side, some aggressive calling on up in the day when most hunters have gone home can bring in a gobbler when nothing else will. The biggest turkey I have ever called in for someone was for a fellow from Florida. I had fooled with this particular bird for a few days early in the morning, then I took this gentleman one day and he killed him at about 11:15 a.m. The old gobbler came strutting in very cautiously. His spur lengths were 1 1/2 inches and 1 3/8 inches.

Don Jones, of Marietta, spends most of his time in the turkey woods in McDuffie, Hancock, Taliaferro and Wilkes counties. These areas of the state have long been known to provide many hunters a rush on any given spring morning, but they also get plenty of hunting pressure, especially the past couple of seasons. Don, like Mike, knows the rewards of waiting out a gobbler until the middle of the day.

Being an excellent bowhunter with a Pope & Young deer to his credit, Don is an avid outdoorsman who just enjoys being in the woods. Staying in the woods from daylight until well into the afternoon is not uncommon for Don during the turkey season, and consequently, much of his success comes during what he calls his “flash hunts.”

“A flash hunt is when I’m calling aggressively one moment and the next moment I’ve got a gobbler on the ground,” said Don.

He describes his midday tactic as “prospecting.” Unlike a lot of experienced turkey hunters who rely on several different types of calls during a day’s hunt, Don travels very lightly in anticipation of covering a lot of ground on a routine hunt, and he depends almost exclusively on mouth diaphragms.

“Like any other turkey hunter, I’m waiting for the redbirds to wake up while waiting for that first gobble. If I’m not able to set up on a gobbling turkey early on, I start covering as much ground as possible. I stay mainly on top of the ridge and call down into the bottoms with a lot of excited cutting calls. I won’t usually get real serious about locating a receptive tom until after the sun has had a chance to get on up in the sky,” said Don.

“The reason I don’t call real heavy early on is I feel the chances of calling a longbeard away from his harem of hens is small, and I feel like I’m just educating the birds to my style of calling.”

This point is to be taken seriously. Since turkeys are birds with very strong social ties, meaning they don’t like to hang out alone except when hens nest, it is not a gobbler’s first choice to leave the company of other turkeys early in the morning.

The established dominance order a group of gobblers plays a key role in why midday hunting can be very successful. With turkeys roosting every night in groups, whether they’re large or small groups, there is a series of events that usually take place just after daybreak during the breeding season. They turkeys fly down and the dominant toms commence to strutting and courting the hens. During this time, the subordinate gobblers (usually 2-year-old birds) will hang around the action just to watch what is going on. Sometimes they can even get away with strutting, as long as it is outside the comfort zone of the boss tom. Any effort to get too close to the hens is met with some resistance. This continues for the first hour or two after fly-down time. Eventually, these subordinate, or satellite, gobblers will have worked themselves up in a frenzy and stray off looking for some action. It is these birds that can provide, in Don’s words, a flash hunt. Also, after a little longer length of time, the dominant gobbler is given the cold-shoulder treatment by his hens as they leave him to go to their nests, making him just vulnerable enough on up in the middle of the day to come in to some excited cutting calls of a hen.

Don ends up with this piece of advice, “I try to cover as much ground as possible, cutting loudly and often to get a response. The instant that I feel like the gobbler has begun to make his way toward my calling, I will cut back considerably on the volume and frequency of my calling. This is also a good time to begin scratching in the leaves to sound like a hen is feeding. I have killed some birds by only scratching after he answered my call and was headed my way.”

With turkey season nearly two weeks old, there is a good chance that gobblers in your neck of the woods have heard their share of calling early in the morning. By giving midday hunting a try, you can increase your odds by calling to birds when they don’t normally hear a lot of excited hen talk, catching a tom whose harem of hens has given him the slip, or maybe coaxing a satellite gobbler to within gun range.

Many different types of nut trees grow naturally in Ohio or have been brought from other places.

These trees produce delicious nuts and beautify the landscapes of the state. We’ll learn about the unique characteristics of each tree, where they prefer to grow, and why they’re important to both humans and animals. Native trees such as Black Walnut and Hickory have long been valued for their strong wood and tasty nuts.

In this article, we’ll look at how to tell the difference between native nut trees in Ohio that have been growing here for a long time and non-native nut trees that have recently been introduced.

So, let’s get started.

1. Ohio Buckeye

• Common Name: Ohio Buckeye
• Scientific Name: Aesculus glabra
• Mature Height: 20-40′ (6-12 m)
• Native/Non-Native: Native
• Flowers/Cones: green flowers
• Uses: planted in parks, yards, and along streets for its attractive autumn foliage

The Ohio Buckeye, also known as Fetid Buckeye or Stinking Buckeye, is a Native American tree that features a broad spherical crown with a flat top and can reach a height of 20-40 feet.

The Ohio Buckeye’s palmate leaves are composed of 5 leaflets, each 3-5 inches long and radiating from a central point with fine uneven teeth. The leaves are yellowish green on top and pale and hairy on the bottom, and they are linked to the tree in different directions.

Because of the unpleasant odor of the blossoms and most other portions of the tree when crushed, the Ohio Buckeye is also known as Fetid Buckeye or Stinking Buckeye. It thrives in damp locations naturally, such as river bottoms, and is planted as a landscaping tree in drier highland areas for its gorgeous autumn foliage.

The tree produces spherical, light brown spiny capsules that are 1-2 inches wide. These capsules carry 1-2 glossy brown toxic seeds that fauna avoids. The bark of the Ohio Buckeye was originally employed as a cerebrospinal system stimulant.

The Ohio Buckeye leaves turn yellow to orange in the fall, creating a stunning picture. It can be distinguished from Yellow Buckeye by the warty spines on its fruit capsules. Despite its unpleasant odor, they are one of the most commonly found nut trees in Ohio.

2. Black Walnut

• Common Name: Black Walnut
• Scientific Name: Juglans nigra
• Mature Height: 50-75 feet (15-23 meters)
• Native to North America
• Flowers in catkins and fruits are green with an edible nut inside

The black walnut tree can be found throughout North America. It can reach a height of 75 feet!

The Black Walnut tree’s leaves are compound, which means that many little leaves grow together on one stalk. Each leaflet is approximately 3-4 inches long and has a pointed tip. The leaves become yellowish green in the fall and fall off the tree.

The Black Walnut tree’s fruit is green with a firm dark nut inside. The nutmeat is delicious and safe to consume. The husk that covers the nut, on the other hand, contains a chemical that can color your skin. Pioneers dyed their garments light brown using these husks!

The wood of black walnut is also quite valued. It does not shrink or distort, making it ideal for making furniture and cabinets. Animals such as squirrels and birds rely on the Black Walnut tree for food.

One important feature of Black Walnut is its ability to create juglone, a natural herbicide. This compound can be damaging to surrounding plants and is present in the tree’s fallen leaves and roots.

3. American Bladdernut

• Common Name: American Bladdernut
• Scientific Name: Staphylea trifolia
• Mature Height: 20-25 feet
• Native/Non-Native: Native
• Flowers/Cones: Green capsule fruit
• Uses: Provides shade and beauty in gardens and forests

The American Bladdernut tree has several slender stems and an open crown. It can reach a height of 20-25 feet and has compound leaves that are 6-9 inches long.

The leaves are oppositely connected and consist of 3-5 oval leaflets ranging in length from 1-3 inches. The fine-toothed margins of the dark green leaves are placed above while the paler green margins are located below.

The bark of the American Bladdernut is originally gray and smooth, but it can turn scaly and fractured as the tree becomes older. The tree’s fruit is a 3-lobed green capsule that turns brown when mature and can grow to be 1-2 inches long. The capsule dangles and opens at the pointed end, releasing lustrous brown spherical seeds.

The American Bladdernut is native to Ohio and grows in moist soils and shade in the understory of deciduous woodlands.

It gets its name from its distinctive inflated green-to-brown bladders, which are most visible in the summer and autumn. These bladders help distinguish this tree from others. Because of its location in the understory of deciduous forests, this tree is sometimes ignored.

4. Butternut

• Common Name: Butternut
• Scientific Name: Juglans cinerea
• Mature Height: 40-60 feet
• Flowers/Acorns: Produces small greenish-yellow flowers in the spring; develops oblong nuts enclosed in sticky husks.
• Uses: Valued for its timber, which is used in woodworking and furniture making; nuts are edible and enjoyed by both wildlife and humans for their rich flavor.

Butternut, commonly known as White Walnut, is a medium-sized tree with a divided trunk and an open crown that can grow to a height of 40-60 feet. It is scientifically known as Juglans cinerea and is a member of the Walnut family (Juglandaceae).

If you are looking for the best variety among the nut trees in Ohio, then Butternut must be the ideal choice. It is a native tree with a wide range that can live for 80-100 years.

The tree’s compound leaves are 15-25 inches long and have 11-17 leaflets. These leaflets have a toothed border and are typically 2-4 inches long. The last leaflet of each leaf is normally present and the same size as the lateral leaflets, gradually shrinking toward the leaf base.

The bark of the tree is light gray with broad flat ridges. Butternut flowers are catkins that are 1-2 inches long and made up of many tiny green flowers. The fruit is an oval, edible nut with a sticky green husk that becomes brown.

Butternut trees grow in a wide range of soil types, often on slopes with well-draining rich soils.

Butternut wood is highly hard, robust, and in high demand among woodworkers. This tree’s sap can be boiled to make syrup, and yellow dye derived from the husks can be used to color clothes. The common name comes from the butter-like oil that American Indians extracted from the nuts.

Unfortunately, Butternut is plagued by a devastating illness known as Butternut canker, which is caused by a fungus and has killed many of these trees.

5. Horse chestnut

• Common Name: Horse Chestnut
• Scientific Name: Aesculus hippocastanum
• Mature Height: 50-75 feet
• Flowers/Acorns: Produces white or pink flowers with a yellow or red spot in the spring; develops spiky capsules containing shiny brown nuts.
• Uses: Ornamental tree in parks and gardens, nuts for wildlife.

Aesculus hippocastanum, or horse chestnut, is a medium-sized tree that can grow to be 40-60 feet tall. It is a member of the Soapberry family and is recognized for its lovely white blooms with yellow or orange centers that grow in spike clusters 8-12 inches long.

The Horse-Chestnut tree’s leaves are palmately compound, with 5-9 leaflets radiating from a central point on each leaf.

The bark of Horse-Chestnut trees is dark brown with numerous furrows and scales, and the fruit has numerous spines.

The fruit is a spherical, thick-walled leathery green capsule with 1-3 smooth, non-edible, lustrous chestnut-brown seeds. The tree is not native to the United States and was brought over from Europe perhaps 75-100 years ago.

Horse-Chestnut trees thrive in a wide range of soil conditions and can be found in parks and yards across the United States. They are linked to Ohio Buckeye trees and were sometimes used to treat horse coughs, which is how they received their name. Esculin, a substance found in the Horse-Chestnut tree’s leaves and bark, has been extracted for use in skin protectants.

The Horse-Chestnut tree’s leaves become yellow in the autumn season. This plant is a lovely addition to any outdoor setting, and many people enjoy its distinctive flowers and foliage. However, keep in mind that the tree’s seeds are not edible and should not be consumed.

6. Yellow Buckeye

• Common Name: Yellow Buckeye
• Scientific Name: Aesculus flava
• Mature Height: 50-70 feet
• Flowers/Acorns: Produces showy yellow flowers in the spring; develops spiny capsules containing shiny brown nuts.
• Uses: Planted for decorative purposes in gardens and parks, providing shade and visual appeal; nuts serve as a food source for wildlife.

Aesculus flava, or Yellow Buckeye, is a big tree that can grow to be 50 to 70 feet tall. It has a circular crown with spreading branches and single or several trunks.

Yellow Buckeye leaves are a palmate compound and range in length from 5 to 14 inches. They are composed of 5 to 7 leaflets radiating from a central point. The leaflets are finely serrated and uniformly yellowish-green on top, paler below, and frequently hairy.

Yellow Buckeye produces green-to-tan tubular flowers in triangular clusters 4 to 6 inches tall in the spring. The Yellow Buckeye produces a smooth, leathery, 3-parted light brown capsule that is spherical and 2 to 3 inches wide. There are 1 to 2 deadly seeds inside the capsule.

Yellow Buckeyes are endemic to Ohio and feature a yellow-to-orange fall color. They can grow up to 6,000 feet in a range of settings and are often found in deep moist soils, rivers, and mountain valleys.

Although the Yellow Buckeye is ubiquitous in the Great Smoky Mountains, it is rare in pure stands in Ohio and is restricted to rich bottomlands.

The Yellow Buckeye’s soft wood is listed at the bottom of the 35 major timbers in the United States and is frequently used for pulpwood, artificial limbs, and interior finishes for dwellings.

Yellow Buckeye seeds and young shoots are poisonous and can make cattle sick. However, the Yellow Buckeye is often marketed as a shade tree and is also known as Sweet Buckeye, Big Buckeye, or Large Buckeye.

7. Shellbark Hickory

• Common Name: Shellbark Hickory
• Scientific Name: Carya laciniosa
• Mature Height: 70-90 feet
• Native/Non-Native: Native
• Flowers/Cones: Thick-shelled green fruit turning dark brown at maturity, round 2-3″ in diameter, husk splits open into 4 sections, releasing a nearly round nut.
• Uses: Fruit is edible and eaten by wildlife.

One of the tallest nut trees in Ohio, the Shellbark Hickory, also known as the Big Shagbark Hickory or Kingnut, is a huge, natural tree that may be found throughout most of the United States save the far eastern limit of Ohio.

It can reach a height of 90 feet and has a straight trunk and a narrow spherical crown.

It has complex leaves that are glossy green on top and lighter on the bottom, with 7 (occasionally 9) lance-shaped leaflets. The tree’s bark is gray and rough, growing shaggy with age and flaking into long, thin, loosely linked pieces.

The Shellbark is one of the easiest hickories to identify due to its enormous leaves, incredibly large fruit, and orange twigs. Its fruit, which is edible and consumed by wildlife, is thick-shelled, green, and matures to a dark brown color.

The husk separates into four parts, revealing an almost spherical nut. The central stalk (rachis) of the tree persists after the leaflets fall off each autumn.

Shellbark Hickory grows well in moist to wet soils, floodplains, and sun to partial shade. The tree has been present for 150-200 years, and the Latin species name, laciniosa, means “with folds,” referring to the shaggy bark. It’s a lovely tree that feeds wildlife and lends a unique touch to any area.

8. Mockernut Hickory

• Common Name: Mockernut Hickory
• Scientific Name: Carya tomentosa
• Mature Height: 40-80 feet
• Native/Non-native: Native
• Flowers/Cones: Produces thick-shelled green nuts
• Uses: Valued for its strength for furniture; also used for smoking meat, such as ham.

The Mockernut Hickory is a medium to big tree with a straight trunk. It can reach heights of 40-80 feet and has a narrow circular crown. It has complex leaves that are 8-20 inches long and have 7-9 leaflets. Each leaflet is elliptical, with a pointy apex and a round base.

The leaves are lustrous dark green on top and lighter and hairy on the bottom. The bark is gray to light brown and has short forked ridges.

The Mockernut Hickory produces thick-shelled green nuts that develop to brown. These nuts contain a small edible kernel that ranges in color from tan to light brown.

The tree bears nuts after 20 years, but the optimal nut-bearing age ranges from 50 to 150 years. Its nuts are an essential wildlife food source, as many birds and animals consume them or store them for the winter.

Mockernut Hickory is native to the eastern and southern United States, where it can be found in damp highland areas. It is commonly found growing with oaks and other hickories on ridges and hillsides in the sun.

The species name stems from the Latin term tomentum, which means “covered with dense short hairs,” and refers to the underside of leaves, which aids in species identification.

Mockernut Hickory wood has long been prized for its strength and durability, particularly in furniture. It is also used to smoke meat, like ham. Its hairy, sturdy twigs are frequently reddish brown.

The Mockernut Hickory tree represents a strong and enduring species that has survived for 300-500 years.

9. Bitternut Hickory

• Common Name: Bitternut Hickory
• Scientific Name: Carya cordiformis
• Mature Height: 50-100 feet
• Native/Non-Native: Native
• Flowers/Cones: Produces nuts
• Uses: Wood is used for smoking meat, and nuts were once used for lamp fuel

Bitternut Hickory is a huge, strong tree that can reach heights of 100 feet. The trunk is straight, with slender erect branches and an open spherical crown.

The leaves are compound, which means they are made up of several smaller leaflets. Each leaflet is 3-6 inches long and has a pointed tip and a finely serrated border. The leaves are glossy green above and lighter below.

Bitternut Hickory bark is gray in hue with uneven vertical fractures.

Bitternut Hickory fruit is a circular nut, 34 to 12 inches in diameter, with a pointed end and four ridges extending to the point. This nut is too bitter for humans and most creatures to consume. Previously, the oil derived from the nuts was utilized as lamp fuel.

Bitternut Hickory is a North American native that thrives in damp soils and lowlands. It is a full-sun tree that does not tolerate shade. It has a bright yellow bud that makes it simple to distinguish before the leaves appear. Bitternut Hickory wood is used for smoking meat and has a particular flavor.

This tree has been existing for 100-150 years and is an important part of North America’s natural landscape.

10. American Chestnut

• Common Name: American Chestnut
• Scientific Name: Castanea dentata
• Mature Height: 60-90 feet (18-27.5 meters)
• Native/Non-Native: Native
• Flowers/Cones: Catkin with male and female flowers on the same tree (monoecious)
• Uses: Hard oak-like wood with a straight grain, relatively decay-resistant.

The American Chestnut is a magnificent tree that previously stood more than 100 feet tall.

The leaves of the American Chestnut are distinctive, having large teeth that extend beyond the leaf margin and curve forward like saw teeth. The bark of the American Chestnut is smooth and dark brown to red, splitting into large flat-topped ridges.

The American Chestnut is well-known for its delectable chestnuts, which are frequently roasted over an open fire during the holiday season. However, the tree has numerous more purposes besides producing tasty nuts. The wood of the American Chestnut is firm and straight like oak, making it a great choice for furniture and building materials.

A fungus known as chestnut blight has made mature trees extremely scarce today. Chestnut blight is a fungus that destroys trees by damaging the bark and interfering with nutrition delivery.

The American Chestnut tree is endemic to the eastern United States and is frequently observed in parks or near historic structures.

Although mature trees are difficult to obtain owing to chestnut disease, the American Chestnut will sprout from the stumps of dead or cut trees and can continue to thrive.

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Common Nut Trees In Ohio – Sources

The Regional Gardening team makes sure that the information in our articles is accurate by only using sources that are known to be trustworthy. Some of these sources are peer-reviewed journals from government agencies, well-known universities, and scientific research organizations.

1. Trees Of Ohio, Division Of Wildlife
2. Trees Of Ohio Field Guide, ​​Book by Stan Tekiela
3. Ohio Trees, OSU Extension Publications
4. Native Plant Lists, Ohio Department Of Natural Resources
5. Ohio Department Of Agriculture
6. Gardening, The Ohio State University

Are you in need of tips on how to preserve a deer tail for your next project?

If you are looking to use it as a lure or any craft project, then our step by step guide will help you out. Discover this easy DIY guide to clean and preserve that precious deer tail. Beginning from the carcass and up to the slab, we’ll teach you everything you need to know.

Let’s get started!

How To Preserve A Deer Tail

Just a heads up – the tips on how to preserve a deer tail that you are about to read is focused more on the simple preservation of this material.

It does not involve tanning; instead, this is the step that you will start with before you tan the deer tail. By preserving the tail, you can get the fur perfectly set. Hence, you can prevent bugs from developing into the material.

Another reason why you would want to learn how to preserve a deer tail is to keep the material intact. Otherwise, it is most likely to get torn over time.

Are you all set to preserve that deer tail? Let’s get started with these tips:

1. Remove the tail.

Naturally you want to first remove the tail off the deer. Cut the tail off depending on the length that you prefer. Some folks snip it at the base of the deer’s buttocks but you can decide on how long you exactly want it to be.

For this step, you will need a pair of utility knife, pliers or razor. Be sure to get the bone out of the tail, or that hard portion. You can do this by slicing it right down the middle.

2. Start the cut.

Next step, you will now have to make your cut. With the tail no longer intact the bum of your deer, lay it flatly on a clean surface.

Keep the bottom portion up with the hairs separated. Then, cut precisely right along the entire length of the tail or over the bone.

You will want to make sure that the hair is parted while you cut to the top. This will help to prevent losing much of the fur or causing some damage to the tail’s overall appearance.

Once you have opened the tail, pick the bone out using your pliers. You need to be very careful with cutting the fat right from the bone’s base portion.

As you hold the hide down, gently pull the tail right off. In some cases, cutting the fat that sticks to the bone may be necessary. Do this as gently and as firmly as possible until the bone is completely out.

3. Clean the hide.

At this point, you are now ready to wash and clean the hide. You only need to use some dish soap diluted in warm water.

Fill up a basin with warm water and mild detergent. Next, submerge the tail carefully and rinse off blood or dirt that may be stuck in it.

Rub it gently with soap but be careful not to tear any piece. When you are done soaping it, you need to rinse it with lukewarm water until there is no more soap left on it.

4. Dry the tail thoroughly.

After you have cleaned the tail, it’s now time to dry it all off.

Lay it on a wax paper and grab your hair dryer to gently dry out the hair and skin. Be sure that it is completely dry.

You may also use some paper towels to further dry it. Sometimes, there’s some moisture left on the skin after using a hair dryer, so paper towels or some dry cloth would come in handy.

In case some fat remains intact, simply scrape this portion off with a serrated knife. But be very gentle and careful since you would not want to cut the skin.

6. Add borax to the tail.

You may be wondering why you need to use borax to the tail. Well, for the simple reason of protecting it from bacteria that might develop on the skin.

Since borax is antibacterial, it helps to apply it on the tail to fully preserve and protect it from damage.

With the tail laying flat and cut open, coat the inner portion with a thin layer of your borax. You may apply as much as necessary, which will coat the flesh that’s fully exposed.

But if you are preparing the deer tail for tanning, you may want to use non-iodized salt instead of borax. Apply a thick layer of non-iodized salt on the flesh until it is fully coated. Let it dry ad add a bit more salt as needed for this salt curing process.

An additional tip when preparing the material for tanning is by making sure all membrane and fat are removed. When you leave even the slightest hint of fat on the skin, this will give the tan an odd color while reducing pliability.

Let the tail coated with borax sit for a few days in a dry and cool place. You need to be certain that the skin is absolutely dry before you use it for your desired purpose.

Alternate Technique On How To Preserve A Deer Tail

Perhaps it doesn’t really matter as much without you if the tail is flexible or pliable. In this case, you may go for the dehydrator technique.

A food dehydrator is just what you need to really dry the material out. But at the same time, it will completely dry the flesh out, which may not be ideal for some people.

You can simply leave the tail in a food dehydrator for a few days. This will completely dry the material, yet you will no longer be able to reform it to the way you want without causing the hide to break.

What To Do With Preserved Deer Tail

Now that you have completed the process of preserving deer tail, you may be curious to find out what exactly you can do with it.

Well, if you are an angler, you can certainly use the deer tail on jigs. This is a fine material that is strong and durable, which is perfect for jigs to use on fishing.

But if you are not into angling, you can also use the hair of deer as a paintbrush. You will love the durability and steadiness of the tail and the brush works for your ceramic glaze.

And lastly, you can make small purses or dice bags for the tail. Just put the parts together and add a smooth lining or just leave it as is – leathery and all.

No matter what you decide to do with your preserved deer tail, it is sure to be a great project to work on with amazing results!

Final Thoughts

Preserving deer tail may initially seem to be a complex and intimidating process.

But by checking out our quick guide on how to preserve a deer tail, now you understand that it is actually quite simple and basic.

With only a few tools and some know-hows that we have just shared with you, the entire process should go as seamlessly as possible.

We hope this post has been helpful, and now, you are ready to start preserving deer tail for your next DIY project!

Unless you live under a rock, you have definitely heard about the Mossberg 500 Tactical by now.

This renowned pump-action shotgun from O.F. Mossberg & Sons certainly needs no introduction. Especially not when organizations like the Marine Corps continue to use it for missions around the world.

That said, is this the right tactical shotgun for you?

Why Choose The Mossberg 500 Tactical?

When it comes to pump-action shotguns for home defense and tactical operations, your options are limitless. Just about everyone in the business of making shotguns has a tactical version of their firearm that performs well. So why should you choose the Mossberg 500 Tactical instead of one of the other brand names?

The answer to that question is simple.

For almost sixty years, the M500 has been continuously improving and evolving. Improvements to this firearm not only come from consumer feedback, but also feedback received from the people who trust their lives to this weapon system daily. This weapon is battle-proven, and with over 10 million units sold, people certainly rely on it both at home and abroad.

Bonus points added for being made in America, and being the only shotgun that meets mil-spec requirements.

You can find some more reasons on why you should trust Mossberg shotguns here.

Meet The Mossberg 500 Tactical

There are thirteen different models of theMossberg 500 Tactical. Seven of the thirteen models come stock, ready to load 5+1 into the magazine, with the other six all being 7+1 in capacity. Depending on which model you choose, the weapon may or may not come stock with an adjustable stock and pistol grip, but there are tons of after-market options there as well. Only five of the stock model M500 Tactical come with a sight other than the bead front-sight.

It’s worth noting, that regardless of which model of the 500 Tactical you get, after-market options are available for just about everything. This shotgun has been compared to the Mr. Potato-head of tactical shotguns by some people, and those people were all correct in that assessment. If there is any cosmetic feature of this weapon system that you do not like, there is probably an upgrade or alternative piece of furniture available.

Regardless, the Mossberg 500 Tactical has everything you could possibly need. Of the thirteen different models that exist, there really is a mission-ready shotgun for every scenario. If the shotgun isn’t exactly what you want, you can probably get it there for under $200. Here’s a video of BigDaddyHoffman 1911 doing just that.

Features of the Mossberg 500 Tactical

Aside from being a tactical Mr. Potato-head, the Mossberg 500 Tactical has a variety of other features. Like all pump action Mossberg shotguns, it comes stock with dual extractors, positive steel-to-steel lockup, twin action bars, and an anti-jam elevator. The safety selector is ambidextrous, and mounted on the top of the shotgun. Some people don’t like this, but after a bit of work with the weapon system you get pretty used to it.

Stock, most tactical variants of the Mossberg 500 also come with a tri-railed forend. This allows the user to attach a variety of different accessories to the weapon system. Several versions also come with adjusting stocks and pistol grips, which give the shooter better control of the weapon.

Here are the basic specifications of the 500 Tactical – 8 Shot straight from Mossberg.

Gauge 12 Capacity 7+1 Chamber 3″ Barrel Type Heat Shield Barrel Length 20″ Sight/Base Ghost Ring Choke Cylinder Bore LOP Type Fixed LOP 13.875″ Barrel Finish Matte Blued Stock Finish Synthetic (Black) Weight 7 Length 41″

Mossberg 500 Tactical on the Range

Out on the range is where this weapon system truly shines. Personally, I have been shooting the Mossberg 500 Tactical since around 2008 when I was first qualified in the conduct of less-lethal weapons and munitions. Since then, I have fired the Mossberg 500 and 590, as well as the Benelli xm1014 auto-loader all in military applications and in a variety of environments. Never have I personally experienced any serious issues with the weapon system that were not the fault of poor maintenance, or an inexperienced shooter.

One of the first things you’ll notice with your Mossberg 500 is the ease of use. It really is one of the simplest platforms in existence, and nobody should ever have issues firing it. The action on this weapon runs smooth as silk in most circumstances. Keeping a tight group with the weapon usually depends more on your ammunition and the individual shooter’s experience than on the weapon itself.

We’ve run a variety of different loads from buckshot to beanbag rounds through this platform, and no one ammo-type in particular has had any serious re-occurring issues. In eleven years of firing the Mossberg 500 platform on the regular, I can count the number of malfunctions I have personally experienced on one hand. Simple maintenance makes a world difference, and if you are experiencing a lot of issues with your weapon you should consider sending it into Mossberg to have it looked at.

Here’s a video of IraqVeteran8888 testing out a new optic on his Mossberg 500 Tactical.

Final Verdict on the Mossberg 500 Tactical

This is an absolute no-brainer in my opinion. The Mossberg 500 is one of the premiere tactical shotguns on the market, and it has been for 60 years. At an average cost of around $550, you really can’t get more shotgun for your money anywhere else. Tack onto this the adaptability and dependability of a truly military grade shotgun, and you have yourself a solid purchase for both home defense, and tactical shooting purposes.

These shotguns also make amazing project guns for people who truly like to customize their weapons. In fact, there’s an entire series on Full30 by the Hobbygunsmith where he takes an old Mossberg 500 from a bag of spare parts to a fully functioning weapon system in just four videos. It’s well worth your time.

As always though, that’s just our opinion on the Mossberg 500. If you’re a Mossberg shooter, or just a fan of shotguns in general, let’s hear you sound off down in the comments below with your thoughts and experiences with the weapon system. We’d love to hear from you all!

ZipLine Medical says anyone can use its ZipStitch device for wound closure, and it doesn’t need to be prescribed by a doctor

ZipStitch says its device is 12-times stronger than regular stitches and results in reduced scarring (Credit: YouTube/ZipStitch)

There’s an emphasis in many industries on easy-to-use, cheap alternatives to established products — and healthcare is certainly one of them. Jamie Bell takes a look at ZipStitch — a hospital-grade wound closure device that anyone can use to treat small cuts in seconds.

Whether it’s at home chopping vegetables, playing sports with friends, or cycling to work, minor cuts and flesh wounds can happen just about anywhere in day-to-day life.

Bigger, deeper wounds will often require a trip to the emergency room, and ultimately stitches — a painful, invasive procedure.

In the US, getting stitches is also expensive for anyone without health insurance. Cost range from $200 to as much as $3,000 in some cases.

However, any medium-sized or smaller cut is usually treated outside the healthcare setting using an adhesive bandage or plaster.

While these dressings can stop a small amount of bleeding — and protect against infection — they do little to close the wound and speed up the healing process.

US tissue-repair device company ZipLine Medical has developed a tool called ZipStitch, which combines the convenience of a plaster with many of the benefits provided by having a cut stitched by a doctor.

ZipStitch: The do-it-yourself wound closure device

ZipStitch is a small, adhesive device that is designed to be placed over cuts less than 4mm in width.

Once it is stuck down, the user simply pulls each of the four miniature straps on the device, tightening them and closing the break in the skin.

Because it is so small and light, ZipLine Medical believes its product is ideal for everyday first-aid kits, and can be useful for someone to have with them during a range of outdoor activities where minor injuries can often occur, including cycling, hiking or camping.

The company warns, however, that the wound must be cleaned properly and allowed to dry before application.

Not only does this reduce the risk of infection, but it ensures the device will stick to the skin and remain in place.

It is sold online for $29.99 as part of a pack including gauze pads to stop bleeding, alcohol wipes to clean wounds, and bandage to cover and protect the cut once ZipStitch has been applied.

The device is supposedly 12-times stronger than regular stitches and results in reduced scarring.

Although it can only be used to close wounds up to 1.5 inches in length. ZipLine Medical recommends seeking stitches in hospital to close larger cuts.

Unlike conventional sutures, ZipStitch is also non-invasive, which can reduce the chances of bacteria causing infection.

The company says it provides better protection than butterfly bandages and other adhesive plasters, repairing cuts faster and decreasing the likelihood of scarring.

Hospital-grade Zip technology

The device uses ZipLine Medical’s own Zip technology, which has been used by more than 500,000 people in the past five years, and by hospitals in 30 countries.

The California-based company says it delivers faster and less painful wound closure than established methods such as stitches or staples — with 95% of its patients saying they prefer Zip technology to these treatments.

Having proven to be safe and effective in several clinical trials, it gained FDA approval in 2017.

As well as treating minor, everyday injuries, Zip technology has been used to close wounds left by operations including knee and shoulder replacements — which, the company says, has resulted in reduced scarring compared with conventional stitches.

When used to close wounds following these procedures, a longer strip of the ZipStitch device is used to precisely align the edges of the incision.

The Zip structure also functions as a cage to offer extra protection from anything that might cause pain or reopen the cut.

Removing the ZipStitch can be done at home by the patient in some cases, and ZipLine Medical says this is as simple as pulling off a Band-Aid.

It is also less painful than removing stitches or staples, and leaves no holes in the skin.

As well as benefits for patients, the company claims the speed at which ZipStitch works can decrease healthcare costs and improve efficiency of patient care by reducing the number of follow-up appointments.

How ZipStitch compares to butterfly bandages and other wound closure devices

The main alternative to ZipStitch is the butterfly bandage — an adhesive strip designed to close small wounds by pulling the skin together.

These outperform ordinary plasters and are also small and light.

However, butterfly bandages cover a much smaller area than the ZipStitch device, meaning only cuts that are very short in length can be closed effectively.

There are several other methods for closing wounds without traditional stitches — German healthcare company McKesson uses a series of adhesive strips to do this.

Clozex Medical has developed a wound closure device that comes in several different lengths to treat a variety of cut sizes, and to cope with curvatures and raised areas on the skin.

Skin glue or “liquid stitches” can also be used to non-invasively hold the edges of a cut together. It can also be applied in addition to other wound closure methods like traditional stitches or adhesive bandages.

These other products are not do-it-yourself solutions, and require a healthcare professional to administer them.

The Oklahoma Department of Wildlife Conservation predicted another banner year as big-game hunting seasons opened this week. But like any good hunting expedition, the season ahead has some challenges.

Archery seasons for deer, elk, antelope, and black bear opened Sunday, and big-game muzzleloader seasons and a youth-only weekend rifle hunt lie ahead this month. The popular 16-day rifle season opens next month, Nov. 18-Dec. 3.

For the first time, deer and elk seasons opened with Chronic Wasting Disease documented inside state lines, a factor of particular interest to northwest Oklahoma hunters. And while the department has consistent methods for tracking game harvest numbers, it no longer has a clear handle on how many hunters put in the effort. The license-numbers challenge puts a glitch in long-term hunter success-rate data and could be a sign of potentially serious revenue issues ahead.

However, according to the state’s top big-game biologist, hunters are reaping the benefits of suitable habitat and plenty of game. The department’s 2022-23 Big Game Report shows a record-smashing total white-tailed deer harvest of 134,158, which firmly eclipsed the previous record of 126,290 in 2020, presumed at the time to be a result of more hunters afield due to COVID pandemic shutdowns that season.

Wildlife Department Big Game Biologist Dallas Barber credited healthy populations, good habitat conditions, and cooperative weather for the new record. Hunters also killed more does, which made up 45 percent of the 2022-23 harvest and fully met the Department’s percentage-harvest goal for the first time.

Lost numbers, lost revenue

A forced inaccuracy makes hunting effort appear sharply reduced in the report. For the first time, the big-game data roundup fell short in its accounting of hunters.

While the Department’s 2021-22 report noted record-setting participation in the archery and rifle seasons but a slight decrease in muzzleloaders, the most recent report comes with a giant asterisk and a considerable drop across the board.

The annual Game Harvest Survey, a scientific survey used by the Wildlife Department to track hunter participation for decades, was thrown askew when Gov. Kevin Stitt refused to renew hunting and fishing compacts with the Cherokee and Choctaw nations in late December 2021.

The tribes issued their own licenses, which removed tribal members from the Wildlife Department’s license survey system.

It also erased the revenue from compact license sales. Fiscal 2021 was the last time the department received tribal-compact license sales. It totaled $689,240.

The combined GHS estimates for archery, muzzleloader, and firearm participation in 2021-22 totaled 457,020 hunters. The estimated numbers afield dropped to 294,796 for last season, an on-paper reduction of more than 35 percent.

“It’s something we’re still figuring out,” Barber said. “We don’t know yet what it will mean for long-term trends. We’ll have to analyze that.”

The numbers could indicate another financial hit in the making. The department receives its share of federal matching funds for wildlife conservation based on a formula that relies heavily on the number of certified Oklahoma hunting license holders compared to other states.

Department spokesman Micah Holmes said all 50 states via for federal funding from excise taxes on firearms, ammunition, and hunting tackle under a somewhat complicated formula. The amount available fluctuates annually. Hence, the ultimate change on that budget line is hard to predict.

“The loss of federal grant funds related to license certifications is unknown due to fluctuating fund availability and changes in other states’ license certifications,” he said.

The Wildlife Department is a non-appropriated agency and receives no state tax money. It relies on hunting and fishing license fees, which state legislators have refused to increase for two decades. Federal matching funds, private and non-profit organization donations, and other smaller fundraising efforts contribute to the department’s bottom line.

CWD precautions widen

Regardless, Barber said another record-setting hunting season could be in the books for 2024.

“I think deer season will be at least close to that number again,” he said. “We’ve been in an upward trend, and habitat, on a statewide basis, looks good. We had rain where we needed it, and there is a lot of good habitat, so hunters have a lot to look forward to.”

Barber said that interest in archery hunting seasons continues to grow, as indicated by annual record-setting harvests in that category.

“It’s a more intimate method, exciting in close quarters, but it’s also a method you can practice in your backyard and put to use in every corner of the state. Plus, it’s a super long season, and as far as the working man goes, they have more weekends available as opposed to the limited-time seasons,” he said.

Chronic Wasting Disease, officially on the books for the first time in Oklahoma, is not expected to curb hunting interest, he said. Before the season opener, the department posted CWD information and tips about carcass disposal on its website.

The prion disease, similar to mad cow disease and scrapie in sheep, is always fatal and difficult to detect. First discovered in captive mule deer in Colorado in 1967, it has since spread to free-ranging deer and elk in 31 states and three Canadian provinces and captive herds in 18 states and the three provinces. Oklahoma previously had captive-herd CWD cases in elk, and it joined the list of states with CWD documented in free-ranging deer in June.

Parts of Cimarron, Texas, Woodward, Major, and Woods counties now have “Selected Surveillance Area,” or SSA, designations. Hunters in those areas must process their deer and dispose of the carcass in the place where they hunt. The Wildlife Department established CWD sample test drop-off points in each SSA, where hunters can deposit deer heads into a freezer for later testing.

Barber said hunters can help curb the spread of CWD statewide by being careful with carcass disposal wherever they might hunt.

“It’s one of those deals where the more diligent you can be, the better off everyone else is going to be,” he said. “Hunters should take a look at proper carcass disposal methods. If you’re outside the SSA, they don’t necessarily apply, but if you have the ability to bury that deer, great. And if you can ensure that your trash will go to a certified landfill, put it there and not on the landscape.”

If you’re a fan of Hunter boots, then you know that they can be both stylish and functional. However, keeping them in good condition can be challenging if your boots get cracked. Whether the damage is from water, salt, or just general wear and tear, this guide will show you how to patch them up in no time!

This blog post will show you how to fix cracked Hunter boots using simple techniques that won’t damage the boot material. So read on for tips on how to get your Hunters back in good shape!

Things or Materials You’ll Need

• Chapstick or Petroleum Jelly
• Scissors
• Duct Tape
• Black Sharpie
• A Metal Covered Bottle Cap
• Paper or Cardboard

12 Steps to Follow: How to Fix Cracked Hunter Boots

Step 1

First, locate a small enough stick or twig so it reaches from one of the holes in your boot up to your heel. Then, grab the stick and use it to scrape all of the debris, salt, snow, etc.

Step 2

Remove all debris from your boots using a small stick or twig. Once you have removed everything, run the Chapstick or Petroleum Jelly along with the split. Doing this will help keep it moist while you are repairing your boot.

Step 3

Use the black sharpie to color over the crack. This will help it blend in with your boot and prevent further damage from happening. Do this to both sides of the shoe.

Step 4

Take a clean cotton ball or cloth, moisten it with water, and then use it to wipe away any dirt that is still on your boot. This will ensure that the fixative has a clean surface to attach to and help prevent new cracks from appearing.

Step 5

After the split is gone and the area is dry, place a piece of clear tape over it before using duct tape. Finish this step by covering the whole split with duct tape.

Step 6

Set a metal bottle cap over the split. This will help strengthen the boots once they are dry and put them on again. The idea is that if you did it correctly, the boots should hold together until you get home or to a place where you can properly fix them.

Step 7

Place your boots in the sun with the metal bottle cap over the split. Make sure they are sitting evenly so that no air can get in between them. This will help dry them out faster without causing further damage to your boot.

Step 8

After two hours, check on your boots and return them if they aren’t completely dry. Ensure the area is arid before moving on to the next step.

Step 9

Now, cut off a small piece of duct tape and place it over the split in your boot using clear foot powder or baby powder. Use an even coat of this powder across both sides of your boot.

Step 10

When the duct tape has been applied, place a piece of duct tape over it and repeat with clear foot powder or baby powder. Follow this by placing another piece of tape over the split and using your Chapstick or Petroleum Jelly once more to coat both sides of your boot. Repeat until you have covered up the split.

Step 11

Place your boot dryer or an old shoe for weight inside your boots and leave them there overnight. The next morning, you’ll want to remove them and give the area another coating of clear foot powder or baby powder. Then, put them back on and wear them as normal until they are completely dry.

Step 12

Once they are dry, take a piece of tape and cut it small enough to fit over the split. Cut off any excess tape after you have placed it where you need it. Follow this with clear foot powder or baby powder and repeat until your split is completely covered and sealed up. The split should be gone, and your boots should look good as new.

You Can Check It Out to Buckle Hunter Boots

Note

If you don’t have clear foot powder or baby powder, place a piece of tape over the split and use either Chapstick, Petroleum Jelly, Glue, or all three until your boot is fixed! These are just temporary solutions how to fix cracked hunter boots while you are on the go.

Some Tips and Suggestions

Here we have given some tips and suggestions on how to fix cracked hunter boots.

1. Consider using a spray adhesive instead of glue to strengthen the bond between layers of transparent tape. Spray adhesives are designed for use on smooth surfaces, so be sure to test on an inconspicuous area first.
2. To adjust the fit of your boots after you’ve taped them together, try shaving down the heel with a file for a better fit.
3. If your boots are too tight after shaving the heel, consider adding an insert or two to relieve some pressure on your feet.
4. Remember that if you take good care of your taped-together Hunter boots, they should last much longer than before!
5. Consider boots like Blundstones for quick fixes. They’re more affordable and very easy to tape together since there are fewer seams.
6. If you determine that your split is not fixable, you can always return them or exchange them for a new pair online or at your local Hunter dealer!
7. If the crack on your boots is on the sole of your boot, you might want to consider taking them to a shoe repair shop. They can add another layer or two on top of the crack and use extra reinforcement to keep it from splitting again.

Seven Reasons That Causes Cracked Hunter Boots

Now that you know how to fix cracked hunter boots, here are some reasons that cause cracked hunter boots so that you can prevent them in the future.

1. Fade

When the color of your boots fades, it is a sign that you need to reglaze them. This can result from water, sunlight, and heat exposure.

2. Water Damage

If your boots have been moistened too often or kept in a humid area for long periods, then they can crack or split. This is because the leather becomes too soft and loses its shape.

3. Wet Boots

If you have been wearing your boots in snowy, slushy, or rainy weather, then the cold and moisture can cause damage to your boots.

4. Sunlight Damage

This is a common problem for rubber-soled shoes of any kind. The sun’s ultraviolet rays dry out your shoes and can eventually lead to cracks and other damage.

5. No Maintenance

If you do not clean and maintain your boots regularly, they will not last as long. Routine care can prevent dirt, water, salt, snow, and other harmful elements.

6. Poor Storage

If you keep your boots in an unheated area or do not cover them during the winter months, for example, then the leather will become stiff and brittle.

7. Faulty Leather

If your boots are made from faulty leather, they will not last very long. This type of damage is difficult to repair.

Does Gorilla Glue Work on Rain Boots?

Gorilla Glue works on a wide variety of materials, but the company cautions that it shouldn’t be used on some leathers and rubbers. Gorilla glue is water-based and contains no VOC or formaldehyde. Nevertheless, the product makers warn against using it on plastics, fabrics, foams, and rubbers, including most rubber boots.

Some types of rubber can react with the glue and turn white, while others will experience a significant loss of strength after being glued. It is possible to use Gorilla Glue on some rain boots, but only if the product lists the boot as compatible.

What Glue Is Best for the Rain Boots?

It would help if you found a strong adhesive that will bond with the rubber of your Hunter boots. Most waterproof glues or cement are ideal for this type of repair, but they may not be enough on their own. Be sure to add a quick-drying clear coat to your project after applying the glue while still wet. This will provide extra protection and make your new bond last longer.

Rather than spending money on a new pair of boots, you can get many more years out of your current pair by fixing the straps. This is not as difficult as it may sound and won’t require any extra materials that you don’t already have at home. You need some gum or glue that has been designed to adhere to rubber, a few fine-grit sandpaper sheets, and a steady hand.

Can You Fix Cracked Rubber Boots with Shoe Goo?

Shoe Goo is a thick, rubber-like liquid that can be applied to the cracks in the rubber boots to help seal them and protect them from further damage. Shoe Goo is a liquid or putty, but both types contain an adhesive that works similarly. This product can be used on new or old boots and may help restore the boots’ waterproofing.

The product doesn’t dry remarkably quickly, so it allows for repairs to be made without caving to the pressure of having to run out the door with wet feet. Shoe Goo works best on rubber that isn’t very thick or heavily cracked, as it can weaken over time and should only be used on boots that don’t require heavy-duty repairs.

Frequently Asked Questions

What Is the Best Way to Fix Cracked Hunter Boots?

A: When the leather on your brand new boots cracks, it’s very disappointing. Fortunately, there are ways to fix them to look just like new again. The simple way to repair cracks is to simply put a small amount of shoe cream or conditioner into the aperture and then work it in with your fingers.

You can also use a wet cotton tip swab to rub the product into the crevice. Let it dry overnight, and then apply a second coat if necessary. Buff with a soft cloth to bring back the shine once dried. An easy way to avoid any damage to boots is by simply applying mink oil, which helps waterproof them. You must buy high-quality mink oil to get the best results.

What Are the Dangers of Fixing Cracked Hunter Boots?

A: Using too much shoe cream or conditioner can make them look worse, not better. It may also cause the leather to dry and crack even more quickly. In addition, many products sold for this purpose tend to leave a greasy film on the boots that will attract and hold dirt and dust, which may ultimately cause your boot to dry rot.

Do-it-yourself repairs also run the risk of permanently damaging the boots. For example, it is easy to accidentally use too much shoe cream or conditioner or rub it into unintended areas. This can result in a discolored surface on the leather, a more severe cracking in the future, or some other unusual change.

What Can I Use to Repair a Broken Zipper on My Hunter Boots?

A: Repairing a broken zipper on your favorite Hunter wellies is much cheaper than replacing the boots. The plastic teeth are held together with an interlocking system attached to two walls of the zipper housing. This means you need to piece together both sides of the wall to restore the strength lost when one side breaks away from its counterpart.

Hunter boots are made with a waterproof material, and the zipper is not. Without one or both of these elements, your boots will no longer be truly waterproof. You can piece together the wall holding the teeth together with a vinyl adhesive, which you can find at any hardware store. Though it comes in a tube and is designed for use on sticky surfaces, the vinyl adhesive provides a waterproof hard shell once it has dried and hardened.

Conclusion

If you want to make your boots last longer, then there are a few ways to fix the cracks on them. One way is using boot polish or shoe cream on just the surface of the leather where it’s cracked. This will fill in the gaps and help seal up any exposed areas, which could cause more damage if not taken care of right away.

Another solution would be to use something like wax paper over all of the parts of your shoes that have cracks so they don’t get worse. We hope this blog post on how to fix cracked hunter boots has been helpful. If you have any questions or thoughts about how to take care of them in general, feel free to reach out! We’d love to help you get back on track with these top-quality shoes that will last for many years if taken care of properly.

You Can Check It Out Put Beads on Shoelaces

Going Small for Snows

No trailer (or three) jam packed with snow goose decoys? S’no problem! Here’s how to make a smaller spread work this spring.

By M.D. Johnson

Eighteen hundred. Two thousand. I’m not sure what the exact number was … hell, I don’t even know if the young man who orchestrated the menagerie of plastic knew the exact number. What I did know was it was a lot of decoys. And battery-driven spinning things. And speakers to rival a Rolling Stones concert. A lot of stuff.

The young man—now much better known—was Tony Vandemore, co-owner of the Missouri-based Habitat Flats and an authority on white goose hunting. I’d joined Vandemore for early-season teal, wood duck, and mallard hunts, but this was my first experience with snows. So when the young man instructed us to get down and flicked the power switch, bringing to life eight speakers and a pair of rotary decoy machines, I listened. But when I finally saw the geese he was looking at—so far away they looked a lot like flecks of pepper on a paper plate—I wondered to myself, “What the hell is this kid doing?”

Moments later, and after taking my inaugural ride in the eye of a white goose hurricane, I realized he knew exactly what he was doing.

And so it was with my further experiences with snows in Missouri, Iowa, Nebraska, Kansas, and South Dakota—concert hall sound systems and a virtual sea of plastic. Fifteen hundred. Twenty-five hundred. But it wasn’t just me, for it seemed to most hunters that massive spreads and big numbers were the only way to go when it came to fooling spring snows.

“Either go big,” I was told time and time again by those foolish enough to chase white geese, “or don’t go at all.”

And that’s just the way it is … or is it?

Defining ‘Small’

Let’s begin by addressing perhaps the most challenging part of the small spreads for snows equation, that being the definition of the word “small.” For a group accustomed to setting 4,500 decoys, a mere thousand might be small; for those rigging 1,000, then 400 to 500 may fit the bill. Much of it, then, lies in what one’s used to. It’s an eye of the beholder sort of thing, I reckon.

“Downsizing for me is 300 to 500 full-bodies,” said Vandemore “We’ve done this quite a bit in Arkansas, and 300 full-bodies is what we typically run in Saskatchewan in the fall.”

Eleven hundred miles east of Vandemore’s digs in north-central Missouri lies Easton, Maryland, home to some of the nation’s deepest goose hunting traditions, as well as to legendary callmaker, Sean Mann. No stranger to geese, be they darks or lights, Mann is the mastermind behind the Eastern Shoreman goose call, one of the most recognizable hunting instruments ever to be crafted. But while the World Champion and Champion of Champions built his reputation on Canadas, he’s certainly no stranger to the ins and outs of spring snows.

“To me a small spring snow spread would be 300 decoys or fewer,” Mann said, “If I’m hunting a water hole, I may use as few decoys as three dozen floaters.”

That’s not to suggest committing the sin of shooting a roost, Mann continued, but rather, strategically targeting water where the birds are going to hydrate. In Maryland, says Mann, that means avoiding setups on alkali ponds, which birds will use to roost but won’t drink from. Dry-feeding snows must drink afterward to digest their food. Find their watering hole, and it won’t take a massive spread to find success.

Coming back around to the word “small,” Nick Costas, who owns Split Reed (splitreed.com) and Thunderbird Outfitters in Saskatchewan, is quick to admit he’s not a “spring snow grinder” like some folks, but he does his fair share of chasing the white fowl.

“For years, 100- to 150-dozen socks, rotary machines, clone decoys, fliers … the monster set-ups were the big thing,” Costas said. “And people still do it. They’re hunting a 10,000-bird feed. They’re laying in the decoys under the socks. A huge spread with a lot of motion: That’s their play.”

Costas was convinced to rethink this mindset during the spring 2018 season.

“That was a tough year for snows in Arkansas, the year I guided down there,” he explained. “There weren’t a lot of juvies. We came out running 100 dozen socks with rotaries, and didn’t have a lot of success. So, we started packing in layout blinds, with 300 full-bodies and no motion, and had success—forty- to 80-bird shoots. To me 300 full-bodies is a small spread.”

As importantly, it’s enough to work.

Dynamic Decoys

Now don’t get me wrong: I’m not saying there’s not a lot of thought that goes into setting out a 2,000 mixed rig of full-bodies, silhouettes, socks, rotary machines, fliers, layouts, A-frames, and anything else worthy of inclusion in these so-called “monster spreads.” There is! But I will say there’s a great deal more margin for error when setting 2,000 fakes as opposed to artistically arranging Mann’s 36 floaters or Costas’ 300 full-bodies, e.g. preparing for a wind shift, selecting blind locations, and most significantly, concealment to the point of invisibility.

“When I say ‘300 full-bodies,’ I would likewise run a small sock or silhouette spread, if that’s what I had,” Costas clarified. “Not everyone can afford 300 full-bodies … and if there was a consistent snow goose feed, I would have confidence running 300 silhouettes or socks, especially depending on the wind. I’m not the guy who’s going to say you need highly expensive decoys to kill snow geese. I don’t believe that.”

So is there a right way and a wrong way to set those 300 decoys, be they full-bodies, socks, or silhouettes?

“More thought definitely goes into setting a small snow spread than when I’m rigging 1,500 or more,” Vandemore said. “But it’s still a fairly routine configuration, with more on the upwind side and fewer downwind.”

Perhaps not surprisingly, Mann’s thoughts on the subject are similar to Vandemore’s, but with an added element which, to those who’ve spent time peering through a windshield, is quite understandable.

“I try to duplicate or set the exact picture of what I’d seen during my scouting,” Mann said. “The birds know where they want to be, and more importantly, why they want to be there. I don’t need to know why, but I do need to know where, how, and of course, when.”

Costas breaks a bit from the traditional “tight is better” theory of setting a snow goose spread, especially when he’s working with but a handful of decoys.

“I’m running my spread looser than most,” he said. “I’m creating a lot of little pockets, and giving the birds options where they can land.”

What the young man said next truly hit home.

“I know it’s not spring, but this works in the fall in Canada: I’ll run 10 dozen silhouettes, hide out of the spread, and kill tons of snow geese like that,” Costas said. “I’d say that’s a very small snow goose spread, but mind you, I’m running that when they’re coming to that exact field. My philosophy is that the more crap I put out there, the more opportunity I have to mess the situation up.”

Visibility and Acoustics

Sooner or later, be the rig large enough to cover several football fields or as small as the average driveway, a conversation surrounding spring snows will turn to the topics of sound and motion. Monster spreads often combine the motion and movement akin to a Mardi Gras parade. Constant sound. Spinning. Flapping. Flying. Flipping. Shaking. It’s like hunting geese in an enormous snow globe—with speakers blaring.

A small spread though, and the variables of sound and motion, change a touch.

“I’ll still use rotary machines in a small spread,” said Vandemore. “But I’ll put them on short posts close to the ground.”

In the East, Mann believes in the back and forth of his socks as it pertains to motion and is a firm believer in an old school motion tool.

“If I can be in the spread, I’ll use a square black and white flag for attraction and attention,” he said. “I’m not using it for constant motion, but to refocus birds when they’re headed my way. If they start to get bored, as evidenced by birds starting to fall out of the flock or even the entire bunch beginning to slide off, I’ll flip the flag and try to get them refocused.”

Sound is, of course, another variable in the small snow spread; however, here the question is whether to use electronics (e-callers) or to return to the tried-and-true mouth calls … or, both?

“You definitely still need the tunes (e-callers), but you really need to think about volume and lowering that when the birds get closer,” Vandemore said. “Often, I’ll still run two e-callers, but I can get away with one situationally. Don’t overlook the fact that 300 decoys cover a lot less real estate than do 1,000, so it matters where your sound is coming from and how much sound you’re putting out.”

Costas is on the same page with Vandemore when it comes to sound production.

“I adjust my e-caller volume, depending on the birds,” he said. “It’s just like (mouth) calling for ducks and geese—you’re going to be a little louder when you’re trying to get their attention versus when they’re finishing.”

Mann’s theory on the audible is different.

“Volume is often overdone with white geese,” he said. “Snows have great hearing, and they know what they want to hear. Sound quality is the most important aspect. You have to sound like them and know what they’re trying to say. It’s not just creating noise. It’s being a good family group of great-sounding birds.”

Further, Mann walks both sides of the e-call/mouth call fence in the spring.

“I like e-callers when allowed, with a very small group sound and four speakers,” he said. “I’m looking for the sound to ‘move’ around the speakers, as if the birds were talking across the flock on the ground. And I use a White Out (mouth call) to produce specific sounds that complement the electronics.”

However, Mann has hunted snows for decades minus the battery-powered devices.

“I still do more hunts without the e-caller than with,” he said, “I’m okay combining the e-caller with a good call, as long as I have a remote for the electronics. No remote? No e-caller.”

Top Priority: Concealment

Back and forth. This and that. Pros and cons. Ask 100 snow goose wizards the same question, and there’s an awfully good chance you’ll get 100 different responses; however, one common denominator they’ll all agree is the need for total concealment. It’s a fact for snow geese, a young ’fowler once told me, that, “If you ain’t hidden, you ain’t shooting.”

“Concealment is always a top priority for snows,” Vandemore said. “But even more so when you’re working with a small spread and you don’t have 1,000 decoys to help take some of the birds’ attention off your hides.”

Mann agreed, noting, “Concealment is without question the primary element. You can’t beat these birds if you’re exposed.”

Costas summarized the matter especially well.

“With a small spread, you need to be hunting the right, consistently behaving birds, and you have to have a great hide,” he said. “Concealment is my ‘thing’ when it comes to snows.”

“Consider that snow geese get shot from the inside of spreads for months on end. So when snows slowly fly up to a spread, they’re looking down. They’re looking for those people they’re accustomed to in the usual spots. That’s the theory behind using 100 dozen decoys: You can hide yourself in the spread, and by the time the birds get to the head, they’re low enough to shoot. You can’t do that with 300 decoys. That’s a small, realistic spread that’s not packed super tight. It doesn’t look like a strip of toothpaste. It says to the birds that this is calm, natural feed, and they need to be there.”

And if you effectively communicate that magic combination to a massive flock of snows, it doesn’t really matter if you’ve put out 300 socks or 5,000 full-bodies—your shotgun barrel is about to get hot!

M.D. Johnson’s decoy trailer is ready for spring in Cathlamet, Washington.