Which one is better: MOA or MRAD?

The short answer: it’s your preference. If you use the metric system (meters/centimeters) then go for MRAD. But if you measure in the empirical system (yards/inches) then MOA may be easier.

If you want a more thorough answer along with an explanation of MOA vs MRAD, then keep on reading!

MOA vs MRAD: Why do we care?

Suppose you’re headed out on a hunting trip with your buddies.

You did your research, you read the best rifle scope guide, and you’re ready to go. But then your buddy starts talking in meters and your MOA turrets are adjusting in yards.

His numbers don’t match your turrets, your turrets don’t match your reticle, and now your target has bounded off to another state.

The problem: he was using MRAD while you were using MOA.

MOA and MRAD are basically two different systems of measurement.

When sighting rifle scopes, the reticle and turrets are used together to reach the most accurate shot possible. The turrets change the position of your reticle while your reticle provides an aiming point.

Your turret clicks and the hashes on your reticle can use one of two different systems of scope alignment: MOA or MRAD.

You can have the best long range scope on the market, but if you don’t sight it in using either system, it’s useless.

If you’re looking for help choosing between rifle scopes, here’s the only guide you’ll need to read.

What’s an MOA Scope?

M.O.A. stands for Minutes of Angle; a system based on degrees and minutes. This type of angle measurement is used to calculate the distance to a target and MOA turrets correction for the bullet trajectory.

Basically the math breaks down to this: there are 360 degrees in a circle, and 60 minutes in a degree for a total of 21,600 degrees.

You can find your MOA measurement by multiplying the distance in yards by 1.047, then dividing by 100. You can thank the Ancient Egyptians and Mesopotamians later.

At 200 yards, one MOA equals 2.094 inches. Out to 1,000 yards, 1 MOA equals 10.47 inches, and so on.

For those of us who aren’t Einstein, the easiest way I’ve found is to use a quick-reference conversion chart. That way you don’t miss your prize buck while scribbling away on math problems.

MOA scopes aren’t a perfect system though.

Often calculations are made with 1 MOA at 100 yards (91.4 meters), but you need to count on 100 yards with 1.05 MOA. Up to 100 yards there will be no problem with 1 to 100 comparison, but when shooting over longer distances you’ll be 5% off base and this could mean missing a shot.

This isn’t a problem if you’re only shooting at medium ranges. Read my 4×32 scope guide for more details.

I use an MOA reticle scope on my AR-15 A2 after I removed the front sights for added cool guy points. I’ll show you how to remove the AR-15 A2 sights here.

What’s an MRAD Rifle Scope?

MRAD stands for milliradians (or MIL for short), and was originally developed for artillery in the late 1800s. It’s still the preferred method for military and police force operations to this day, where you’ll commonly here it referred to as a MIL-dot reticle.

Based on a radial line, a unit of angular measurement that is equal to roughly 57.3 degrees, a milliradian is one thousandth of a radian.

This system does not come out to make a perfect circle like the MOA system. Instead, milliradians divide the circumference of a circle into 6.28 equal sections measuring 57.3 degrees each in an MRAD scope.

Thus, every circle has a circle circumference that is 6.28 radians long. Then each radian is going to be divided into 1,000 parts more, which is called Milliradians.

When calculating MRAD in a MIL-based scope, you will be calling it MIL, which is 3.6 inches at 100 yards (91.4m using the metric system) equal to 1 MIL.

I tried an MRAD scope on my M1A that happens to have the best M1A scope mount ever.

MOA vs MRAD: Which is better?

The short answer: neither. The argument is as old as time, but it’s really just the shooter’s preference of rifle scope.

The fight between MOA vs MRAD boils down to a difference in how we format degrees of angular measure. It’s fancy math terminology that basically asks if you use yards or meters.

Technically, the 1/4 MOA clicks are slightly more accurate than the 1/10 MIL, but the MIL values are somewhat easier to communicate.

Reference cards with MIL are easier to read because they are indicated by 2 numbers only, while the cards with MOA are indicated with four numbers. We could go back and forth all day, but you get the idea.

If you like other comparisons, check out my Nightforce SHV vs. Vortex PST guide.

Which do you need?

Choosing between the MOA or MRAD system will take some self reflection, so buckle up.

If you normally think in meters or centimeters, then it is easier to calculate distance with a MOA. If you normally think in yards or inches, then MRAD should be your go-to.

And if you’re not going to calculate distances, it doesn’t matter between the MRAD vs MOA. Do your thing, both types are equally effective for medium- and long-range shooting.

Another thing to take into account is that you also have to consider your hunting partners, teammates, friends, and so on. You’ll want to have a common language so you can communicate together without having to do conversions between the two systems.

Or you could be an absolute rebel and have a scope for each system, swapping it out in the field with the best quick detach scope mounts. Live your life to the fullest.

Most importantly, choose the same system for your turrets and scope reticles. I have a guide on first focal planes vs. second focal planes to help you choose the right reticle as well.

Regardless of all the math, the decision between MOA and MRAD isn’t that important. Clicks with an MOA turret are slightly more precise than clicks with a MIL turret, but at the end of the day it’s a style choice between rifle scopes.

FAQ

Spring in North America welcomes many things, one being morel mushrooms. There are a few types of morels, including true morels and false morels. There are more species of false morels than true morels. Both true morels and false morels tend to grow in the spring, under hardwood trees, especially ash and elms. Because of the similar ways these different species present, mushroom hunters are likely to come across false morels in their quest for true morels.

The Good and the Toxic

Before delving into morel mushroom hunting, foragers should have a solid grip on basic mushroom identification. What sets safe-to-eat true morels apart from false morels is a toxin known as monomethyl hydrazine (MMH), which is the same chemical found in certain rocket fuels and can cause dizziness, vomiting, and in some cases even death.

Mycologists know that true morel mushrooms are identified by narrow, pitted, wrinkled caps which are cone-shaped, hollow caps and stems, and caps attached to the stem rather than free hanging.

Black morel mushrooms have four lookalikes, and three of them are considered toxic—so it’s important to be able to tell the difference.

The good news: The three toxic wild mushrooms, Verpa Bohemica, Genus Gyromitra, and Verpa conica, are pretty easy to tell apart from true morels, if you know what to look for. Don’t let the simplicity fool you, though. One simple case of misidentification can have some nasty consequences, including symptoms of mushroom toxicity, gastrointestinal upset, illness, and death. So, although morel mushroom identification is basic, pay close attention to the small distinctions between the different species.

It is a good idea to carry a guidebook while foraging, to compare notes and photos, rather than relying on memory. A good one is Mushrooming Without Fear: The Beginner’s Guide to Collecting Safe and Delicious Mushrooms.

Read on for the top four most common false morels and ways to identify each mushroom species.

Morel Mushrooms Top Lookalikes

1. Wrinkled Thimble Cap (Verpa Bohemica)

Verpa Bohemica, or wrinkled thimble cap mushrooms, are sometimes, but not always, toxic. Still, we don’t like those chances. Verpa Bohemica is also sometimes called the early morel, early referring to the fact that Verpas generally mature just before and in the beginning of morel season.

The feature on Verpa Bohemica that most closely resembles true morels is the sort-of honeycomb cap, which is a trademark for true morels. On a wrinkled thimble, the honeycomb cap has sharp ridges and a more wrinkled look, like a sheet or brain. Cut in half, these wild mushrooms are not hollow, while morel caps are completely hollow inside.

2. Gyromitrin

Gyromitrin mushrooms are also sometimes toxic, though usually just in small amounts. That means if you eat it in small quantities, the toxins can cause nausea, stomach cramps and diarrhea. But in large quantities, eating a Gyromitra species can cause convulsions, jaundice, come, or even death.

These risks are most closely associated with two species of false morels: Gyromitra Esculenta and Gyromitra Ambigua. Many mushroom hunters in Europe consider false morels outside of those two species to be edible once cooked, but we preach caution. Note: even true morels can cause gastrointestinal upset when eaten raw, so it’s a good rule of thumb to always cook morels before consumption.

Gyromitra species can be found in many places where morels are also found. These poisonous mushrooms have the ridged caps of a true morel, but otherwise it’s much wider than it is tall, and its ridges don’t look like a honeycomb. Species of Gyromitra will have a much redder hue than a true morel will ever be, and when you cut it in half, it’s not hollow. All true morels will always be hollow.

3. Thimble Morel or Bell Morel (Verpa Conica)

Thimble Morels, in our opinion, look a lot like true morels. But they have very small, barely-visible ridges and a tiny cap. Moreover, these wild mushrooms have a skirt- or umbrella-like cap attachment.

Warning: The stem here is hollow, just like a true morel. But the cap doesn’t flow seamlessly into the stem but instead sits more underneath it.

4. Half-Free Morels (Morchella Semilibera, M. Punctipes, M. Populiphila)

Half-Free Morels are the closest relative to true black morels and look a lot like them. Luckily, they’re edible. They just don’t taste great. Half-free morels look like an ugly step-sibling to true morels, but they’re not harmful for you to eat (just not particularly tasty).

The main feature that sets them apart is that their cap looks like it’s half free, meaning the cap doesn’t flow seamlessly into the stem but instead tucks under. Usually, Half-Free Morels also have a really long stem compared to a true morel.

How to Tell Real Morel Mushrooms from Fakes

1. Look At the Cap

False Morels

• Irregular, “squished” shape
• Outward bulges
• Wave shape
• Hangs freely off the stem

Real Morels

• Uniform shape
• Pitted inwards
• Covered in pits and ridges
• Attached directly to the stem

2. Examine the Stem

Real morels have a hollow stem. Also, their overall shape is typically longer than they are wide.

False morels have a solid stem, and are often (but not always) wider than long. A false morel will have cottony fibers or may even be completely solid inside.

3. Check the Color

Real morels are usually a light tan, brown, or grey-black color. They’re almost never in the red spectrum.

False morels can be reddish brown or yellow.

4. Smell It

Real morels smell distinctly earthy.

False morels sometimes have a slightly sweet smell, or none at all.

5. Slice It in Half

False Morels are solid, not hollow, and are filled with cotton-like white fibers.

Real Morels are hollow from the tip of the cap to the bottom of the stem.

6. Check for Symmetry

A true morel will almost always have a nice symmetrical shape to it, whereas false morels have a wavy, uneven look. Bulges and folds will stick out, and the false morel may even look like someone stepped on it.

7. When In Doubt, Go Without

If you still aren’t sure that the wild mushroom in your hand is a real morel mushroom, leave it. False morels can be extremely toxic and the risk of poisoning is not worth the potential of a fresh mushroom.

Keep this in mind before you head out morel mushroom hunting next month.

READ MORE: 10 Edible and Medicinal Plants in the Colorado Rockies You Can Forage

Focus is often placed on a bow’s poundage, draw length, overall design and an arrows length, weight, the broadhead used, and components of the spine. With all this information there seems to be very little attention given to where the actual arrow needs to rest on the bow.

Not only is an arrow rest an integral part of a bow setup, but it can also directly affect the flight and accuracy of the arrow.

Let’s analyze two of the more unique arrow rests, the whisker biscuit and the drop-away rest.

Whisker Biscuit

The introduction of the whisker biscuit in 2003 sent shock waves through the bow hunting industry as it was viewed as a revolutionary piece of equipment that was so simple, so obvious, and yet entirely unique when compared to other arrow rests.

A whisker biscuit’s design is made for simple insertion of the arrow for nocking while providing it with complete stability, there is almost no movement in the arrow’s position.

The “whiskers” that hold the arrow in place are synthetic bristles that form a complete perimeter holding the arrow firmly.

Having the arrow completely encased means the archer can shoot from almost any angle or position. It was this benefit alone that catapulted the whisker biscuit to becoming a firm favorite amongst many tree stand hunters.

Another simple, yet masterful, piece of engineering, was the V-shaped cut into the biscuit called the quick shot – an entry slot that allows the arrow to be loaded with efficiency and ease.

Drop Away Rest

There are many varieties and adaptions when it comes to drop-away rests, but essentially, they all operate in a similar fashion and have a unique feature that distinguishes them from the static rests, such as the whisker biscuit.

The drop-away rest holds your arrow in an upright position through the draw cycle and then falls out of the way as the arrow leaves the bow.

The falling away action of the rest means there is nothing impacting the arrow’s flight. The idea is that there is no external influence on the arrow once it receives the bow’s energy.

With the very nature of hunting being unpredictable, most of the drop-away rests geared for hunters have a full-containment system which holds the arrow firmly in place during full draw.

There are three types of drop-away rests:

1. Cable-driven rests: These use a cord that connects to the down cable of a compound bow. Once the bow is drawn, the cable pulls down on the cord, which raises the rest into position. When the arrow is released, the cord flies up and the rest falls.

1. Limb-driven rests: With this type of rest the cord attaches to the top or bottom limb. The cord holds the rest in the down position. When the bow is drawn, the cord relaxes, and the rest rises into position. At the release of the trigger, the limb goes back to its normal position, pulling the cord tight and the rest down.

1. Inertia rests: Here the cord is attached to the don cable or limb, but they can be cocked in the upright position which will help if the bow is drawn and then let down without shooting, the arrow will stay in the shooting position. Only once the string is released will the inertia fall away.

Pros and Cons of the Whisker Biscuit

Pros:

• Simplicity
• No moving parts, means zero chance of mechanical failure and repetitive maintenance
• The arrow is firmly held regardless of how the bow is angled
• Comes in three different sizes to accommodate small to large arrow spines
• Not affected by varying weather conditions

Cons:

• Although very slight, the whisker biscuit does reduce speed and accuracy of the arrow. The difference is minuscule which should not affect hunters, but it is something to consider for competition shooters
• Whiskers will put stress on the arrow vanes, and they will need to be re-fletched after a while
• Adds a noise to the bow. Again, a minor issue but many bow hunters want their setup to be as quiet as possible

Pros and cons of the Drop Away Rest

Pros:

• Allows for better accuracy and tighter groupings for those hunters who want to be specific in their target shooting
• Minimal friction on the arrow which turns out a higher arrow velocity
• Quieter as the arrow does not have to pass through any bristles

Cons:

• Prone to failure with moveable parts, constant maintenance must be done
• Pricing of a drop away rest on average can be higher than a whisker biscuit
• The arrow may fall off from the rest while moving or crawling to get closer to an animal
• Moveable parts tend to be affected by extreme weather conditions
• Attaching the cords to the limbs or strings may take time or be forgotten by the hunter

Which is Faster?

Speed is on every bowhunter’s mind, and many have questioned whether an arrow rest affects the speed of an arrow? The short answer is yes, but which arrow rest is faster and by how much?

Various chronograph tests on arrows fired from a whisker biscuit versus one fired from a drop-away rest have consistently shown that the arrow from a whisker biscuit is on average 3 – 6 feet per second slower than a drop-away rest.

It is simple physics that the more drag created on a moving object, the slower its speed and momentum will be.

What is interesting however, was the variation in speed of arrows with different vanes when fired from a whisker biscuit.

• 4” Vanes slower by 1 – 2 feet per second
• 5” Vanes slower by 5 – 7 feet per second
• 5” Vanes with a 6-degree helical slower by 12 – 15 feet per second

How to Choose the Right Rest?

In order to choose the correct arrow rest, it is best to match the rest with the type of archer you are.

A hunter that prefers to put a stalk on through wooded areas or has no problem crawling over rocky ground to close in the distance on an animal would want their arrow to be held firmly in place and not have to fiddle with cables or drop plates just before letting an arrow fly.

Hence, they would be inclined to choose the whisker biscuit.

Then you have a competition shooter that needs every part of their bow to be perfectly in tune and adapted to pinpoint accuracy.

Competitive shooters will scrutinize every inch of their equipment and wouldn’t settle for bristles that may influence the accuracy of the arrow by as little 1/16th of an inch. This accuracy comes from the drop-away rests.

Some questions that may help with decision making:

1. Are you happy to sacrifice a small amount of speed for arrow stability?
2. Is the risk of mechanical failure a concern?
3. Are you ok with replacing vanes on a regular basis?

Conclusion

Although these points can be seen as minor or easily managed through the correct maintenance of your equipment, they are none the less still issues which many archers would need to consider when deciding on a whisker biscuit vs drop-away rest.

by Pete Cooper Jr.

The waters within interior salt and brackish marshes across virtually the entire Gulf coast hold red drum throughout most of the year. However, these fish are not pushovers. That is entirely a result of their environment and the main reason why so many anglers have trouble successfully fishing here. If you are one of those but would like to solve the riddle and experience the exciting action found in these areas, try adhering to the following tips.

Interior marshes are typically comprised of broad stands of various emergent grasses pocked with shallow ponds – with or without submerged grasses – and laced with small, shallow creeks and cuts. As the tide rises, it floods these ponds and shoreline grasses along the cuts or creeks. The rising water makes these sites accessible to various prey species. Those creatures now move into these nutrient-rich areas, and the redfish follow.

In interior areas it is almost always best to follow the fish into the shallowest water that you can operate your boat. As the tide continues to rise, continue to look for shallow spots. Water over 1 1/2 feet deep quickly becomes a detriment, as it masks signs of a fish’s presence.

Periods of slack tide – either on the low end or the high end – are usually best spent taking a nap or returning to the marina for a bite. Just be sure you are back on the water when the tide begins to move again. When it starts to fall, target the creeks and cuts.

These can be worked effectively by either moving along their shorelines where the falling water is pulling bait from the recently flooded grass or by anchoring at the point where a cut drains a pond. There, the current created by the water falling through the cut pulls prey from the pond. Redfish are well attracted to these feeding stations.

As a rule, redfish in open water aren’t all that bright, and some of them can act like they want to be caught. However, if you assume the fish you encounter in the marshes are so afflicted, you won’t catch many of them.

You must move about very stealthily while fishing shallow ponds and creeks. Paddling is best if your boat allows it. Push-poling ranks a close second and provides better visibility, but it’s rather difficult to make a quick, accurate cast with a 16-foot push-pole in one hand. Unless there’s a buddy aboard who is willing to alternate rod and push-pole with you, sculling while sitting on the boat’s bow is the better option if at all possible.

If you are averse to paddling, the water’s depth is sufficient and there isn’t a profusion of submerged grass in the area, a bow-mounted trolling motor can be used effectively. But it should be set on the lowest speed that produces headway.

Whatever method of propulsion you decide on, go slowly. While that allows you to search for fish more effectively, the main reason is to prevent the boat from creating large pulses through the water that can be detected by the fish, alerting them that something is not quite right. Reds often simply swim out of the way of a boat that is just creeping along, not in the least bit alarmed. Others caught unaware may bolt, but after they dash off a ways they occasionally seem to forget what all the fuss was about. A cast at fish that respond to the boat’s presence in these manners can result in strikes you would have not received had your boat been pushing a large wave through the water.

One of the most exciting things about fishing the waters within interior marshes is that much of it is done by sight. As you move stealthily along, always look and listen for signs of fish.

A large wake moving slowly along the edge of a small pond or creek channel is definitely worth a speculative cast. A much better bet is the tip of a tail intermittently puncturing the water’s surface beside a patch of submerged grass. An entire tail waving merrily at you anywhere you might encounter one is almost a sure thing.

Then there are “crawlers” – fish which move with some purpose in water so thin that their dorsal fins and part of their backs are exposed. These fish might also appear to be almost a sure thing, but they demand a very precise cast. Unlike a “tailer,” which is a stationary target, a crawler must be led just far enough to prevent the lure’s impact from spooking the fish, yet close enough for the fish to detect it. Knowing just how much to lead the fish is determined in great part by experience and blind dumb luck! Do not expect consistent results with crawlers – but then, that’s what makes fishing for them such a hoot.

In clear water, redfish can be detected relatively easily beneath the surface. For best results, work the up-wind shorelines where emergent vegetation creates a calm surface. Move along in the direction allowing the best sub-surface visibility. Wear amber or yellow polarized sunglasses and a cap that is dark green on the underside of the bill. If you are moving along slowly and stealthily, you can spot these fish quite close to the boat, so be prepared for a short, quick cast with minimal movement.

On first inspection, a pond, creek or cut may seem to be relatively featureless. This is not the case. Irregularities abound and are often quite attractive to bait species seeking nourishment or shelter. In such places, redfish are likely to be nearby.

Small grass points in a creek’s shoreline may extend into water that is slightly deeper than that found along the adjacent bank. Here any current may be slightly stronger, causing bait to be carried along by the flow. Such a feature makes a good ambush point and should be prospected with a cast or two wherever found.

Other good spots are at intersections, especially where one cut or creek is much different from the other. It can be larger, smaller or shallower, just as long as the two channels differ. These sites are usually best on a falling tide, but they can be productive during the low end of a rising tide. Particularly target any shoreline shallows located there.

During low tide you may notice some shells on the bank of a creek. These may extend well out into the waterway, providing protection for prey species. Never pass up an accumulation of shoreline shells without making a cast or two across the water next to them.

Finally, fish may be found anywhere in ponds where the bottom is carpeted with thinly growing submerged grasses. But places where the grass grows in thick patches – often matting on the surface – tend to limit the area used by the fish. Take plenty of time looking around and casting a pond that has clumps of matted grass scattered throughout it.

Some of the hottest lures going these days for reds in interior marshes are spoon flies. They are not really flies but were created for use with fly rods. These lures do look and act like a single-hook spoon. They are very light and sink quite slowly, usually have a mono weed guard. The lures wobble and flash about, emitting audible as well as visible imitations of a baitfish. Though small at 1 1/4 inches, the redfish absolutely love them!

Of course, spin-fishermen can employ very similar lures. In this setting, especially with clear water, a small and loud 1/5-ounce, single-hook spoon can be a good choice. In areas where submerged grass presents a problem, try a 1/8-ounce buzzbait dressed with a 2 1/2-inch soft-plastic grub. In the slightly deeper cuts and creeks, junior-sized surface lures can produce some very entertaining strikes.

But day in and day out, the most reliable lure is a spinnerbait created from a gold, No. 3 1/2 safety-pin spinner, a 1/8-ounce jighead, and a 2 1/2-inch grub. With that you can make a relatively delicate presentation to a crawler, buzz it past a tailer at the edge of a thick patch of grass, or prospect the intersections, points and accumulations of shells along a creek’s shoreline.

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The Best Glock Triggers for 2024

Yes, Glocks are among the best and most popular handguns on the market.

Still, as Glock is so prone to upgrades, there is always room for improvement. For example, the factory Glock triggers are not so famous. They have large pull weights.

If you’re one of the competitive shooters, then you probably need a trigger with less pull weight than the factory trigger provides.

Now, before we make a list of the best Glock triggers you can have, let’s explore all factors to consider before making a purchase.

Glock Trigger Types

There are different types of Glock designs that you can choose from for your next upgrade. For example, the most popular design among aftermarket triggers is the drop-in design.

What’s drop-in design?

It refers to an aftermarket trigger assembly that’s designed to be easily installed into a Glock pistol without having the need for advanced gunsmithing or modification. It got its name as it suggest the trigger can just be dropped into the handgun.

A drop-in trigger typically comes as a complete trigger assembly, including the trigger shoe, trigger bar, connector, and other components necessary for proper functioning.

The main advantage of the drop-in trigger is that it makes the upgrade process simple. It’s made to allow you to upgrade your trigger without having too much knowledge about firearms or specialized gunsmithing skills.

However, before shooting your handgun after installing the drop-in trigger, test a few times if everything works as it should before using live ammo.

Read more:

• (Top 5) Best Aftermarket Glock Slides
• The Top 10 Glock Barrels for Enhanced Accuracy
• Review: Glock M.A.R.S. – Magazine Advanced Release System

How to Choose the Right Trigger

Among various different types of factory and aftermarket Glock triggers, choosing the right trigger may not be as easy as it sounds.

However we turn it, everything starts with your needs and preferences.

Would you like to stick with stock triggers or aftermarket triggers? Aftermarket triggers can offer different pull weights, improve reset, or offer other customization options (including different styles).

Next, where are you going to use the Glock pistol? Different environments like competitive shooting, self-defense, and recreational shooting have different requirements and different triggers may suit each of them separately.

And finally, one of the widely known factors is the trigger pull weight. The stock Glock trigger usually has a pull weight of around 5.5 pounds (or 2.5 kilograms). However, if you prefer lighter pull weight, then consider choosing aftermarket triggers with less pull weight.

How Glock Trigger Works

The Glock trigger works on a striker-fired system called the Safe Action Trigger system.

Let’s break it down in a few steps to clarify how does Glock trigger work:

1. Trigger safety: The Glock trigger has a trigger safety feature. It’s a small lever placed in the middle of the trigger. You have to press it fully to move the trigger backward and fire the gun. This safety prevents accidental firing if the gun is dropped or if pressure is applied to the sides of the trigger.
2. Trigger pull: When you press the trigger, it moves backward. As it moves, it cocks the firing pin, which makes the bullet fire. The trigger has a short distance to travel, making it easier and faster to pull.
3. Firing pin safety: When the trigger is fully pressed, it releases a firing pin safety. This lever was blocking the firing pin from moving forward and firing a bullet. Now that it’s out of the way, the firing pin can move forward and hit the bullet’s primer, causing a bullet to fire.
4. Firing the gun: Once the firing pin is released, it strikes the bullet’s primer, ignited the gunpowder, and fires the bullet.
5. Reset: After firing the shot, you release the trigger, as you let go, the trigger moves forward, and the firing pin partially resets itself. This prepares the gun for the next shot by making it ready to fire again. The trigger reset distance is short, allowing for quick follow-up shots if needed.

The Best Glock Aftermarket Triggers

1. Agency Arms Syndicate Trigger
2. Zev Technologies PRO Trigger Bar Kit
3. Overwatch Precision TAC Trigger
4. CMC Trigger Drop-in Trigger
5. Apex Tactical Specialties Action Enhancement Trigger Kit
6. Killer Innovations Trigger Shoe
7. Tyrant Designs I.T.T.S. Trigger

1. Agency Arms Syndicate Trigger

If you’re looking for something on a budget but still reliable, then Syndicate Trigger by Agency Arms is a great choice for you.

The trigger is made of polymer making it strong, durable, and at the same time lightweight.

This is a drop-in model of a trigger meaning you can easily install it at home without needing different and specialized tools.

However, if you have older generations of Glock handguns, you probably won’t be able to use this trigger as it’s compatible with Gen 5 Glocks only including G19X and G45.

Price: $60Get yours here!

2. Zev Technologies PRO Trigger Bar Kit

This drop-in trigger comes from the Zev Technologies brand, known for winning multiple world championships. It got some pretty good features that make it stand out.

The Pro trigger bar kit supports multiple generations of Glock including Gen 1, Gen 2, Gen 3, and Gen 4. It’s compatible with G26, G19, G17, G34, G17L, G27, G23, G22, G35, G31, G32, G33 Glocks too.

The trigger bar kit is made of hard-anodized aluminum construction. Because of this, the trigger kit is strong, durable, and wear-resistant.

Zev Technologies PRO Trigger bar kit delivers a very crisp and clean trigger pull, making it very comfortable, especially for situations where you’ll need to acquire targets very quickly and deliver follow-up shots.

It’s also easy to install without having any special tools, however, it comes at a little higher price point so if you’re ready to spend a little bit more money, this one is a great option for you.

Price: $132.30Get yours here!

3. Overwatch Precision TAC Trigger

If we have to describe the TAC trigger made by Overwatch Precision as shortly as possible, then we would just say it’s reliable and aesthetic.

It’s made of 7075-T6 aluminum alloy, well-known for its strength and durability which is crucial if you’re going to use your handgun frequently. In this scenario, when you need something resistant to wear, the TAC trigger will get you covered.

The overall feel of the TAC triggers is this: it has a very similar feeling to standard OEM triggers, but it’s crisper and also has better responsitivity compared to them. When pressed, it feels smooth on fingers with a very short reset.

Price: $122.85Get yours here!

4. CMC Trigger Drop-in Trigger

Easy-to-install drop-in trigger made by CMC. Compared to the original Glock trigger, there are definitely improvements.

Let’s start with reset which is great while the trigger itself is light and crisp – something every experienced shooter is looking for when upgrading their Glock.

The trigger pull is about 2.5-3 lbs and is good for situations where you’re required to put several rounds into a target fast. With this trigger, you can easily deliver follow-up shots without affecting the accuracy of your Glock too much.

As for compatibility, you can use this trigger from Gen 1 Glocks up to Gen 4 Glocks. Gen 5 Glocks are not supported this time. Also, CMC offers two different models: one for 9mm Glocks and one for .40cal caliber Glocks. Double-check compatibility before making a purchase.

Price: $155.48Get yours here!

5. Apex Tactical Specialties Action Enhancement Trigger Kit

Comfort and performance – are two words that describe this model the best. It comes from Apex that’s already known for producing quality parts for Glocks.

The drop-in design of this trigger allows you to easily switch the factory trigger with this one.

The Apex Tactical Action Enhancement trigger’s main features are smooth trigger pull, reduced travel and reset distances, and a crisp trigger break compared to the standard Glock trigger.

However, this pistol works only with G43, G43X, and G48 Glock handguns.

Price: $99.75Get yours here!

6. Killer Innovations Trigger Shoe

Aesthetically pleasing yet great performance trigger shoe for Gen 5 Glocks (other not supported). This trigger shoe can go on Glock 17 and Glock 19.

Despite being available in multiple colors, which can also help you make a unique Glock build, the trigger has a crisp break with a short reset. If you’re a competitive shooter who has to put a few bullets in a row in a target, the Killer Innovations trigger shoe provides a very smooth pull and helps you have better follow-up shots.

The trigger shoe is made of aircraft-grade aluminum with an anodized finish. However, this trigger shoe is a little pricey, so be ready to spend more money if you want to own this one.

Price: $115.89Get yours here!

7. Tyrant Designs I.T.T.S. Trigger

If you’re looking for something that’s cheaper but still not lacking quality, and by the way you own Gen 3 or Gen 4 Glock, then you should check the I.T.T.S. trigger.

The trigger comes with stainless steel set screws, safety blades, and power springs ensuring the trigger’s durability.

However, this time you’ll need tools and disassembled Glock in order to change the trigger as ITTS is not a drop-in type of trigger. But if you already have gunsmithing experience, this won’t be a problem for you.

The trigger offers a 30% power spring for fast and fierce trigger reset which is a great feature when it comes to competitive shooting.

Price: $67.45Get yours here!

Final Words

When considering a Glock trigger upgrade, it’s important to assess your intended use and personal preferences.

While the stock trigger may suffice for some, many find aftermarket triggers greatly enhance their shooting experience. Transitioning to a new trigger may require an adjustment period, and practicing with a few hundred rounds is recommended.

Some may prefer to have their stock trigger polished by a gunsmith, while others opt for a complete replacement.

Factors such as trigger shape, intended use (concealed carry or competition), and individual preference play a role.

Ultimately, upgrading to one of the best Glock triggers can improve shooting enjoyment and accuracy, transforming your Glock into a more refined and personalized firearm.

Read more:

• Choosing the Best Glock Iron Sights
• How to Build a Glock Handgun at Home

Even if you are not a milsurp guy or gal, you’re gonna like this one.

It’s the one 20th century rifle that everyone should at least consider owning: the Swiss K31.

From watches to rifles, Swiss machining is legendary for quality, precision, and beauty.

The K31 exemplifies all of these!

We’ll cover our usual review topics of accuracy, shootability, reliability and more. PLUS some tips on how to get the best K31 for your money.

And wooh, we got a full video review too from our YouTube Channel:

Popularity

The Swiss K31 has surged in popularity in recent years, and with good reason. They’re unique, fun to shoot, and stupid accurate.

Folks love these rifles and I think you are going to see why.

I’m going to give you an easy overview, get three K31s out to the range, and at the end, I’ll have a quick buyer’s guide for you.

Different

Adding some lumber to your firearm collection is a nice reprieve from black plastic guns. And the K31 is different even from other milsurp rifles.

Known for the straight-pull bolt, the beer keg charging handle, and that gorgeous Swiss shield, the Karabiner 31 or K31 is desirable for both shooters and collectors.

Plus they are not for collecting dust, they’re for taking to the range.

Shortest History Lesson Ever

Before the K31, there were multiple variations of the Swiss straight-pull bolt rifle. But these were too long and too heavy.

The Swiss military did a rifle redesign in 1931, and the Karabiner Model 1931 was born. It was issued from 1933 to 1958 with total production of about half a million.

Cool thing is that after Swiss soldiers finished their mandatory service, they could purchase their issued rifles. So there are loads of these guns which have been kept and maintained for a lifetime.

And often these guns reach the US surplus market in fantastic shape.

Accurate

The K31 has a reputation for excellent machining and craftsmanship which yields legendary accuracy.

Keep in mind that the technology in this gun is a century old, but the gun even today feels like a precision machine.

And working that straight-pull bolt is a fantastic experience at the range.

The Stocks

The stocks in the earlier models are all walnut, and from 1945 forward the stocks are all beechwood.

So an easy eye test is light stocks are newer, and dark stocks are older.

Ammo

The K31 fires the 7.5 x 55mm Swiss round, also referred to as G11, but most just call it “7.5 Swiss”. Ammo is readily available, and the rifle can fire modern production ammunition.

The box magazine is self-locking and holds six rounds. Waxed cardboard clips are available for faster loading, but I usually eject the mag and load by hand.

At the Range

After 75 years of field testing, the accuracy of this rifle is not up for debate. Rounds will go where you send them, and you’ll see guys on YouTube take the K31 out to 1,000 yards with iron sights.

So for this test, I didn’t do a test at all. I just took a ton of ammo and enjoyed getting shots on target with something that’s not black and plastic. I shot from my shoulder at 75 yards with iron sights.

I fired PPU 174-grain ammo and was able to ping torso steel no sweat.

All three rifles I tested ran perfectly. Absolutely zero problems. These guns run.

The Pain

Lot of military rifles are murder on your shoulder, but the felt recoil on the K31 ain’t bad. I’ll call it medium. It’s certainly manageable.

The Sights

The rear sights have a leaf spring that is adjustable at 100 yard intervals. And the front sight is adjustable for windage with a nifty sliding design.

Other sight options are available, including the desirable diopter sights, but for anything other than standard iron sights, you’re gonna pay a hefty price.

The Trigger

The two-stage trigger is super easy to get used to. The first stage is ultra-light, and when you hit the second stage there is a clear wall.

Pull comes in between 3 and 4 pounds and the break is clean and overall I like the trigger.

The Downside

Not many negatives with this rifle. You’ll hear guys say that there is no positive extraction in the design, or that at 9 pounds it’s heavy, but for me I take those things in stride.

Worst I can say is that the ammo is expensive.

Troop Tags

This is where Swiss guns just get doggone cool.

On the day that these rifles were issued, the soldier’s name, birth year, and location of issue were written down on a small white tag and placed under the buttstock cap.

These troop tags are the Holy Grail of Swiss rifle collection.

Maintenance

Because most rifles of this age have worn bluing and exposed steel, I am a little more mindful of how I maintain my K31s compared to a modern black rifle.

I clean and oil after every range trip, and I don’t handle the rifle without a quick wipe down.

A complete teardown and deep clean can be done in half an hour.

K31 Buyer’s Guide

Shopping for a K31 is easy peasy. 7 quick steps!

1. Identification

There are lots of different Swiss military rifles, but to identify the K31, look for the Swiss shield on the receiver, and the aluminum beer keg charging handle.

Lots of other Swiss rifles have beer keg handles, but they are all reddish bakelite. Again, look for the aluminum.

2. Overall Condition

Look for the condition of the bluing and how much steel is exposed on the barrel and receiver. Look for rust. Look for cracks in the stock. Put a light in the barrel and look at the lands and grooves.

If you are shopping online, all good dealers will give you solid descriptions with photos.

3. Serial Numbers

The most desirable rifles have matching serial numbers on all the major parts including barrel, receiver, bolt, stock, handguard, and magazine.

4. Production Year

Because the Swiss did not participate in WWII, there is no pressure to get War-era rifles. K31s from the 1950s are just as desirable as earlier models.

Basically, the production year doesn’t matter.

5. Extras

I tested three standard run-of-the-mill K31s. But like all military collectibles, you can get lost in the weeds. There are rifles with diopter sights, sniper models with scopes, and guns with decades of provenance.

And you’ll pay more for extra features. But the good news is, if you are new to K31s, you can get a standard rifle in good shape without paying extra for rarer models.

Any K31 in good shape is going to be a winner!

6. Troop Tags

If you find a numbers-matching rifle in good shape with a troop tag, buy it. Just do it, period!

7. Price

For the K31 goes up and down, but right now a numbers-matching K31 in solid condition is $500-800. Double that price for rifles with diopter sights.

By The Numbers

Reliability: 5/5

Keep it clean and this gun will run for another 100 years.

Ergonomics: 4/5

To be fair you’re holding a giant piece of lumber. But the pistol grip feels good and grabbing that beer keg handle is addicting.

Accuracy: 5/5

The free float barrel, precision engineering, and Swiss clockwork trigger combine for legendary accuracy. If you miss, it’s on you.

Customization: 0/5

If you even think about drilling the receiver for a scope mount, you need to sit in the corner and think about your decisions. Don’t change anything, Bubba.

Value: 4/5

True you can get other milsurp rifles for half the price of a K31, but you won’t get the precision or shootability. A lot of value for the price.

These are almost always available on GunBroker and sometimes on Guns.com!

If you’re unfamiliar with either, take a look at our reviews for both GunBroker and Guns.com.

Overall: 4/5

There’s not much to dislike about the K31. It’s easy to use and maintain, fun to show friends, and performance on the range is stellar.

Conclusion

The K31 is a fun to shoot, fun to show off, and even fun to disassemble milsurp gun that is accurate and a good bang-for-the-buck, but it’s heavy and ammo can get expensive.

I had a blast with this project. Even if you are not a milsurp guy, it’s great to get at least one gun into your collection that isn’t black and plastic.

And the artwork on the receiver is a big plus.

One more time…our video review!!

Love some more milsurp? Check out our Best Milsurp Rifles You Can Still Buy.

Rigging dead bait to catch pike is one of the more popular methods used to catch these fish. When northern pike just won’t rise for spoons or crankbait using bait fish can be a great way to land a few fish. There are a number of different methods depending on the technique you are using from bottom fishing, float fishing, casting, trolling or even ice fishing.

Pickerel Rig

This is probably one of the best known and most commonly used dead bait rigs for pike and also walleye. Very inexpensive ( a few dollars) and hardy, you will land a number of fish with one before needing to replace it. These rigs consist of a length of monofilament a few feet long with two steel arms to hold the bait away from the mainline.

At the top is a barrel swivel with bearings to stop line twist. Below that are the two metal arms, these also incorporate red beads as a way to attract the pike’s attention. A snelled hook on a short (4 inch or so) monofilament leader is then added off these arms.

Lastly on the very bottom is a snap to add fishing sinkers. This makes it great to use in lakes or even targeting a pocket of water in faster moving rivers where pike may be hunting.

I use the pickerel rig a lot as a dead bait rig for pike both in open water and ice fishing season. I will often use two different baits on them. Something like an anchovy on one and then a green or yellow smelt on the other.

Quick Strike Rigs

The quick strike rig consists of two or three treble hooks with monofilament leader. The commercially available rigs can have a wire leader instead. In there most basic form you can just make your own with the leaders going up to a central loop. Additionally you can add red beads as an extra visual attractant. A barrel swivel at the top is also a good idea as pike love to roll after they feel a hook set.

I have used quick strike rigs for a few years now when ice fishing with tip ups and, they are absolutely deadly. My usual tactic is to use a much larger bait such as an 8 inch herring, looking to land a solid 3 foot+ northern pike.

Jackfish Rig

Jack fish rigs are quite similar to Pickerel rigs. Instead of the monofilament leaders holding the hooks in this case there is a solid steel leader. Jackfish Riggs still incorporate the red beads to help attract pike. These rigs normally have larger hooks then the pickerel rigs. Another thing I will do with a jack fish rig is swap out one of the hooks for a jig head.I find yellow or green jig heads particularly effective in this case. There is a little spring holding the hook in place on a jack fish rig that makes this modification quick and easy.

Snelled Hooks

Standard snelled hooks will work fine for applications such as float fishing. Suspending a deadbeat underneath the float is ideal for some situations such as heavily weeded areas where you don’t want to get snagged constantly. Also can be good if you know fish are holding in a certain depth. This will work with a standard bobber and with a slip bobber.

Big is ok as far as hook size is concerned. For decent-sized smelt and anchovy try a 2/0 or 3/0 size snelled hook. If the pike are only small hammer handles ( 12 or 16 inch fish) you may want to downsize a bit and go with a 1 or 1/0 size hook. Again this will depend on your bait size as you don’t want a massive hook for small shiners.

Rigging Jig Heads with a Minnow

I’ll often use just a standard jig head paired with a dead bait instead of a soft bait. This technique will work great with anchovies or colored smelt. I seem to have great success with yellows and greens. There are even jig heads with a small propeller that seems to work well if you’re moving them in the water for extra Flash.

You have to make sure to use a steel leader when using a jig head. Pike are notorious for severing through fishing line.

Tipping Spoons with a Minnow

Another great way Of using dead bait is tipping the end of your artificial lure with a small piece of bait fish. A small piece of belly meat from a bait fish added to a spoon introduces scent to an already flashy presentation.

Related Products

Frequently Asked Questions

Can you use “Bait” from the Grocery Store?

The grocery store is great place to get bulk bait fish to use as pike bait. You can often get several times more smelt or anchovies for the same price as a package from your local bait shop.

Can Pike Smell?

They can indeed, pike will follow a scent trail a fair ways underwater. Their sense of smell is not as well developed as some species. For this reason its good to use high oil bait fish. I prefer anchovy for this reason. During ice fishing season I will thaw anchovy overnight in a Ziploc bag to make them extra juicy and stinky.

Pike will eat carrion naturally so smelly dead fish is their thing. If you are going for larger pike consider a much larger dead bait on a quick strike rig. Herring are a good choice for this again as they are an oiler fish.

Some people will also catch and freeze suckers for this purpose also. Suckers arnt considered game fish so you should be fine to do this in your state or province. As always its smart to consult your local fishing regulations about this.

How do you make Dead Bait Rigs for Pike?

You can easily make a quick strike rig for pike fishing with dead bait. In its simplest form all you need is a few feet of monofilament and a few treble hooks. The exact size will vary depending on the bait fish you are rigging from smelt all the way up to foot long white sucker fish.

I personally will have one side of the rig shorter than the other. This will ensure a “head down” presentation as most fish take bait fish head first. I also tend to go with smaller treble hooks for my quick strikes. Some people also add a third treble hook to the rig, if the regulations in that jurisdiction allow .

Should Dead Bait Hang Horizontally or Head Down ?

When you were rigging a dead bait for Pike with a quick strike rig you have a couple of options on how to orient the bait. A very popular way is to make sure your folks are set of equal length so the bait hangs horizontally in the water. Another popular option is with a shorter leader on the dorsal hook and a longer one on the head hook so that your bait will hang head down in the water. Many fish will take a bait head first which is why this is also advantageous.

Pike will eat carrion naturally so smelly dead fish is their thing. If you are going for larger pike consider a much larger dead bait on a quick strike rig. Herring are a good choice for this again as they are an oiler fish.

Some people will also catch and freeze suckers for this purpose also. Suckers arnt considered game fish so you should be fine to do this in your state or province. As always its smart to consult your local fishing regulations about this.” } },{ “@type”: “Question”, “name”: “How do you make Dead Bait Rigs for Pike?”, “acceptedAnswer”: { “@type”: “Answer”, “text”: “You can easily make a quick strike rig for pike fishing with dead bait. In its simplest form all you need is a few feet of monofilament and a few treble hooks. The exact size will vary depending on the bait fish you are rigging from smelt all the way up to foot long white sucker fish.

I personally will have one side of the rig shorter than the other. This will ensure a “head down” presentation as most fish take bait fish head first. I also tend to go with smaller treble hooks for my quick strikes. Some people also add a third treble hook to the rig, if the regulations in that jurisdiction allow .” } },{ “@type”: “Question”, “name”: “Should Dead Bait Hang Horizontally or Head Down ?”, “acceptedAnswer”: { “@type”: “Answer”, “text”: “When you were rigging a dead bait for Pike with a quick strike rig you have a couple of options on how to orient the bait. A very popular way is to make sure your folks are set of equal length so the bait hangs horizontally in the water. Another popular option is with a shorter leader on the dorsal hook and a longer one on the head hook so that your bait will hang head down in the water. Many fish will take a bait head first which is why this is also advantageous.” } }] }

The Sabiki rig is a cutting edge fishing technique that was first used for baitfish angling in Asia. Sabiki rigs have grown to be known as flasher rigs by a great section of the fishing community. They are the absolute fishing tackle and are now employed all over the world.

The rig consists of flies with a branch line fastened to the hook. The hook has a flattened end resembling a spade that reflects light and makes the fly even more visible to the fish.

The fly is attached to the mainline by a stiff monofilament that we shall refer to as the branch line. It is stiff so that the branch will hang out away from the mainline to make the assembly appear natural. This also reduces collision among the baitfish, increasing the chances of biting.

It also reduces the chances of tangling up the mainline. If you are patient enough, you even end up with bites on all 6 or 8 hooks.

If you feel like this assembly is too much to keep up with, you will be pleased to know that you are not alone, so did most of us at the beginning. We were overjoyed to learn that most Sabiki rigs come already assembled and are easy to unpack.

How to Use a Sabiki Rig

Due to the make-up of a Sabiki rig, it offers a ton of opportunity and triggers fish to fiercely fight for the food! The features make the Sabiki rig great but it also comes with a different set of skills and you should know how to us it properly before getting started. The main thing to keep in mind when using a Sabiki rig is to not jig or rip too hard or too quickly – in other words, when you feel a bite, don’t jig immediately as you would with a normal hook.

Instead, let more fish fill the other hooks for a few seconds after feeling the first bite. This may be tough because every fishers natural reaction is to rip up instantly as soon as they feel a bite. The harsh ripping motion will cause other fish around the hook to flee and you’ll miss your chance to snag multiple baitfish. Remember: they travel in large groups so if you feel one bite, then you’ll most likely get others a few seconds after.

Fishing with a friend can also be helpful because, as we mentioned above, the Sabiki rig will hook you multiple fish, which means it’s a two-person job to bring those in. Make sure to move carefully and strategically, especially when you’re unhooking your fish. The last thing you want is to injure yourself or the cause unnecessary harm to the fish.

Depending on where you are, adding some extra chum to the hook will help, especially if you’re not getting enough bites. Use small pieces of shrimp or other baitfish – using store bough frozen shrimp and thawing it out works just fine.

This not only increases your changes of hooking a fish, but also increases the size of the fish. Like we mentioned, baitfish travel in large schools and the competition is fierce – if you create an environment that’s more competitive, then you’ll likely get the bigger fish.

What to Look for When Getting a Sabiki Rig

The Sabiki rig provides the best platform for bait fishing and keeping the bait alive as it allows you to catch multiple bait in one cast. You need to maximize the returns by ensuring you get the right one for your specific type of baitfish and the prevailing conditions.

It is designed for light fishing, but since these bait are for larger sport fish, you should be prepared for a few surprises once in a while as you are not the only hunter.

Below are some of the basic items you should consider for your ideal Sabiki rig.

Colors

There are various considerations you should balance between:

• The depth of the targeted structure
• How sunny is the day?
• Distance from the coastal waters
• How cloudy is the water?
• Your target species

As you go deeper, lighter colors lose their visibility while darker colors become more distinguishable. Water absorbs the sharpness of bright colors in what is called the scatter effect.

Fish have an evolutionary advantage with vision underwater and can see better than us the deeper we go. The darker colors become more metallic and vibrant to the fish the lower we drop, so they will just as easily attract your target species.

These variances are why flasher rigs will sometimes use contrasting coloring or paired colors to have an advantage in all scenarios.

If you do shallow water casting, you need not worry about these differences as what you see is not much different from what the fish see.

Hook Size

If the hook is too small, it will not snare the fish after the bite, and if it is too large, the fish won’t be able to bite in the first place.

Depending on the type of fish, expert anglers usually carry two close sizes so that if one is not working, they can switch to the other. This doesn’t take away the importance of determining the right hook size before you set out.

Type of Fish

Thin lines, hooks, and lures may work for small fish like the bluegill or perch but will not hold up against bigger fish. Once in a while, you attract more than the intended baitfish.

Durability

You should examine the composition of the Sabiki rig before you commit. Materials like high carbon steel for the hooks and fluorocarbon filament for the mainline and the branches are sufficient to put your mind at ease. They have both been enhanced to be tough enough for the water and to resist wear and tear.

Strength

Consider the test of both the mainline and the branch against the kind of fish you are targeting and the number of hooks on the Sabiki.

The larger the fish and the more the hooks, the stronger the line needs to be. The tensile strength is often indicated on the package as the test.

Sabiki Rigs You May Want To Sample

Why the Hayabusa Mix Flasher Sabiki Hot Hook Stands out

This Sabiki rig has been hailed by many experienced bait fishermen to be one of the best gems ever to be dispatched from the Hayabusa kitchen. It enables you to catch live minnows as it ensures you have ample opportunity to keep them alive for their intended purpose. There are various reasons for this consensus.

Reputation of the Manufacturer

Hayabusa is one of the most lauded brand names in terms of fishhook making. They have perfected the art over many years of innovation and the quest to stay relevant to current needs. Their products are working, and they have earned their loyalty.

Durability

Modern technology has been employed in ancient knowledge to produce some of the finest hooks that are easy to use but are tough against extreme conditions. Carbonated steel can withstand any punishment the water will throw at it, so the hooks will hold. The monofilament line used as the mainline and branches is fluorocarbon-based, making it not only tough but strong enough to carry the weight of the fish over and over without letting up.

Opportunities for Variation

You can catch fish without bait on the hooks, but it is more effective to put decent baits on them. The shiny metal pieces that are constant in most Sabiki rigs are sufficient to trigger a bite from a baitfish.

They go a step further and introduce enhancements for these lures in various forms such as flashy colored flies, wings laced with fish oil, synthetic fish skin, and even actual fish skin.

This makes the baitfish go wild, but Hayabusa had already anticipated this, and the rigs have different variations of multiple hooks to reel in as many as you possibly can. This is the ultimate baitfish machine.

Anyone interested increasing their self reliance, going off-grid, or simply providing for their family when times get tough should be heavily focused on creating a productive and sustainable food source. The foundational building block for this is a survival garden.

Providing enough food to sustain your family can seem like a daunting proposition that would require several acres of land. But with a little planning and consideration, you can create a productive garden that will serve you and your family well all year long.

What is a Survival Garden?

The simplest explanation would be that it is a garden capable of growing the food you and your family need to survive (or at least a large portion of it) until the next growing season.

This may seem straightforward, but when you break it down and see how many calories, vitamins, and minerals you need to replace daily to stay healthy, you realize there has to be some serious planning and consideration put into it.

Survival gardening has a critical urgency about it, and doesn’t have to be pretty.

If you’ve seen the movie “The Martian”, you can use the example of Mark Watney, who formulates a plan to survive the harsh climate of Mars by potato farming in his own feces. Is it going to make the cover of Better Homes and Gardens? No. Did it keep him alive? Yes.

When you consider how important food security is to your family, there is no reason not to do everything in your power to make the most effective survival garden possible.

In addition to keeping you alive, there are a few other reasons why having your own garden is beneficial:

• Health Benefits: Starting a garden for the resulting health benefits alone is worth it. Do you know what most people do when they have access to fresh, free produce? They eat tons more of it! Even if you are relatively careful with what you eat, increasing your produce consumption will always benefit you.
• The Money: Eating your own produce can save you some significant coin. And to top it off, you could also take it to the very same markets where you used to spend your money and make some money. You probably will not get rich, but you’ll certainly be able to offset some costs.
• Help Feed People in Need: In times where you’re not depending on every calorie from your survival garden to feed your family, another option is to donate the surplus to a local food bank or family in need. The extra potatoes and carrots you are tired of seeing in the cellar could be the reason someone’s kid has a little more to eat.

Survival Garden Layout Examples

If you are trying to provide a chunk of your family’s calories from the homestead, then you need to be really smart about your survival garden layout.

So what do survival gardens look like? Well, that question has a lot of answers. There are many different types of gardens, each with their own corresponding perks and benefits.

It is perfectly acceptable to use a pre-established clearly defined archetype, or you could take your inspiration from several styles and create something unique to your situation and property.

Here are some terrific and time-tested survival garden layouts to help get your wheels spinning:

1. Square Foot Gardening

Square foot gardening was originally devised as a way to teach growing capabilities and capacities to people in underserved areas. They can be made in nearly any size or configuration.

There are some solid reasons you might choose to follow a square foot gardening format. The planting guidelines prevent crowding while helping to maximize the space available and eliminate the wasted space of row planting. Similar plants are grown in non-linear configurations as they would in the wild so that they are not crowded out and can reach optimal size.

This same aim of efficient use of space also applies to how the garden is physically built. It is a raised bed that is visually divided by materials like wooden dowels, string, or twine tacked into a square-foot grid. This allows the cultivation of personal amounts of produce, in small areas, with little need to travel.

As they are raised beds, less bending is needed, so they are less work to maintain.

2. Victory Gardens

The victory garden is seeing a comeback in these uncertain and turbulent times. While it started as a way to reduce reliance on staples in order to free up rations during the second world war, it is once again enjoying a resurgence in popularity.

Victory gardens are designed to provide most of what a family of two to four people will need for much, if not all, of the year. With a high reliance on beans, drying and preservation will be crucial for maximizing the usefulness of the garden.

3. Keyhole Gardens

Keyhole gardens are perfect for hot and particularly dry climates. They consist of a wide round garden that is several feet deep and has a small radial arc of material removed.

With this material removed, the gardener can stand in the center of the garden, with the produce at approximately waist height. All areas of the garden can be reached easily by the gardener with very little strain on the back.

Since they are so deep, a key benefit of constructing keyhole gardens is their resistance to drought. Cardboard layered into the soil also helps to prevent water loss through evaporation. The center is preferred to be a compost bin with a base of rock at least the size of gravel, to facilitate drainage. As the material in the bin composts and is watered into the surrounding soil, it helps feed the crops in the garden.

Keyhole gardens do not make especially efficient use of space, since they are often quite a bit deeper than simple raised beds, but they do offer an extremely rich substrate to grow in.

Since they are fed by the compost, as well as being primarily watered from there, keyhole gardens are perfect for root vegetables like carrots, radishes, and beets, and leafy vegetables like spinach, lettuce, chard, and herbs.

4. The Permaculture Food Forest

One of the hallmarks of a permaculture style “food forest” is that it’s typically not in 1 specific “garden.” Rather, the plants and trees making up a food forest are strategically scattered throughout an area, to take advantage of microclimates, optimal growing conditions, and companion plantings as much as possible.

If you have a larger area and are looking to build an extremely diverse and naturally productive garden, creating a food forest modeled on permaculture principles might be the perfect option.

The benefits of permaculture systems are myriad. They not only focus on boosting biodiversity across the board, they also promote function stacking.

For example, a portion of the food forest may utilize clover as part of the ground cover. Clover could “stack functions” by not only preventing weeds, but also acting as a nitrogen-fixer, increasing the available nitrogen for neighboring plants. A 3rd function of a clover ground cover could be that it’s a source of pollen for important pollinators like bees and butterflies. This mentality will extend to many aspects of gardening and is the foundation for the entire permaculture model.

5. The Backyard Homestead Layout

The concept of a “homestead” is one that feels bigger than just a vegetable garden. Instead, a homestead typically incorporates fruit trees, perennial plants like berries, animals like chickens and goats, honey bees, or any number of other things. Still, at its core, the goal of a homestead is in line with survival gardening-support and sustain the lives of the people living there.

The Backyard Homestead Book is a popular and info-packed resource for planning maximum food production, even on postage-stamp-sized lots in the city and suburbs. It has a comprehensive walk-through of all the pertinent info you need to begin your journey towards self-sufficiency and self-reliance.

It covers the basics like garden design and crops to plant, but then it takes things a step further, by covering material on food preservation, highlighting methods like pickling, canning, even drying, and dehydration. This gem will help you through the entire food production process, from seed to snack.

6. Self Sufficient Backyard Layout

This is one of those resources that you can keep on your bookshelf, and every time you read it you seem to find something new and useful in it.

It is written by a couple that would be considered modern-day pioneers, living a lifestyle that includes growing their own food all year, collecting water, producing natural remedies from foraged plants, and using renewable energy.

It is a great book for anyone looking to begin the transition to a more self-sufficient lifestyle, or anyone wanting to learn how to effectively use just a quarter acre to produce food and energy for their own family.

What should I grow in my survival garden?

That is a very open-ended question, but we can start to narrow it down by your growing zone and garden location. It is important to have a large variety of nutrient-dense vegetables, and ideally ones that can also be stored in some long term fashion, whether it is by canning, drying and dehydrating, pickling, or cellar storage.

Proteins & Fats

You will need plenty of protein and fats in your diet. Protein is needed to build and maintain muscle mass and fats are needed as a source of energy.

• Nut trees: Hazelnuts, hickory nuts, walnuts, pecans, chestnuts, and so many others. The options for nut trees that will grow in the US is impressive. Nuts can provide a source for healthy unsaturated fats, as well as omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, and are full of vitamins and minerals.
• Chickens: While not a vegetable, you certainly can raise chickens in your garden area. You will need to take some infrastructure precautions to ensure they do not eat your plants, but letting them free range in the area will keep your gardens largely bug free, and cut down or eliminate the need for separate feeding.
• Beans: An important source of vegetarian protein, beans and other legumes also provide ample fiber and a robust dose of antioxidants. Even if you are growing chickens or other livestock for meat, beans will be a vital source of supplemental off-season protein.

Carbs

Carbohydrates are forms of sugars that occur in starchy or fibrous foods. They are an energy source and are broken down and metabolized into either long-term or short-term energy.

• Potatoes: Potatoes are a fantastic and long-storing carbohydrate. It is an easily grown root vegetable that stores well and can be used in countless ways. A smart planting of potato slips can contribute hundreds of pounds of potatoes for your stores.

• Corn: A relatively fast-growing cereal grain, corn is very versatile and can be used and stored in many ways. With minimal processing, it can also be converted to feed, flour, alcohol and fuel.

• Beans: You thought we ran through all the benefits of beans? Nope! Beans will also fill a slot for complex cards, giving you a source for the long term, all-day energy you are going to need to keep your homestead running.

• Squash: A plant that is incredibly nutritious and versatile, squash is another vegetable that can store easily, in its native state, for long periods. The meat is generally eaten roasted or steamed.

• Peas: Peas are a good source of starches, like potatoes, they are great thickeners. They are high in fiber, protein, and vitamins A, B6, C, and K.

Vitamins and Micronutrients

Vitamins, minerals, and other nutrients help your body to function by providing essential components to support bodily processes.

• Chard: A leafy green that is great in salads, and adds a splash of color. A common ingredient in healthy diets, both the leaves and the stalks can be eaten.

• Spinach: A super healthy leafy green. Loaded with antioxidants and nutrients, and a great source of iron.

• Garlic: Closely related to onions, garlic is in the same family as leeks, shallots, and chives. Garlic is a long-standing favorite and is used to season cuisines the world over.

• Broccoli: The tiny trees that are the bane of every child’s dinner plate. One of the most versatile plants, can be eaten raw or cooked, and the leaves, stalk, and flowering head can all be eaten. Growing broccoli provides a great return on investment.

• Cauliflower: Another relative of the mustard plant, cauliflower often resembles cheese curd but has a texture that couldn’t be more different.

• Kale: A close relative of cabbage, kale is packed with nutrients and vitamins. Care should be exercised not to eat kale to an excess, however, as it contains a compound that can interfere with thyroid hormone synthesis.

• Cabbage: Is a leafy green that gives a tremendous amount of leaves on each densely packed head. They can grow very large and can be stored for long periods and used as needed, like potatoes and other staples. A great source of vitamins K and C, along with significant dietary fiber.

Medicinals

You may want to consider adding a section in your garden to contain your medicinal plants. These are plants that can be used to treat common ailments like headaches, inflammation, and pain. Often made into teas, salves, or pastes. Common medicinal plants you may want to consider include:

• Calendula: known to be an antifungal, antiseptic, healer of wounds.
• Cilantro: Helps digestion, possibly linked to heavy metal removal from the body.
• Lemon Balm: Relaxing effects with possible antiviral properties.
• Peppermint: Helps with digestion if brewed in tea, and soothes aches when applied topically.
• Rosemary: Increases oxygen to the brain, a great alternative to caffeine.
• Mullein: Can help heal respiratory infections.

How much space do I need to grow it all in?

That is probably the best part about a survival garden-there is no one single way to do it that will be best. Do what is right for you and your circumstances. This means it is extremely easy to adapt this information to your needs. From tiny urban gardens to acres of country land, there is something for everyone.

Urban gardens are growing in popularity and are becoming more widely permitted. There is a push in many urban centers for green rooftops to reduce HVAC load and provide additional food for building residents.

Agriscaping is transforming common landscapes into productive agricultural spaces. This can look like neighborhood food forests or fruit and nut trees alongside the street in place of ornamentals. Many neighborhoods have begun creating spaces that function as both food forests and community gardening space.

All that said however, one of the early contributors to SCP Survival shared the following recommendation from her grandma who was a serious gardener at the turn of the century:

Grandma Carrie’s Rule of Thumb (how big does my garden need to be?)

Grandma Carrie grew and preserved everything that her family ate in the late 1880’s and early 1900’s short of wheat, sugar, salt and spices. Her garden was well over a quarter acre. And she had a rule of thumb – One quart per person, per day.

Since she was feeding ten people she would need to can 3,650 quarts of fruits and vegetables. Add to that the crops that went into the root cellar, some crops were dried and stored in burlap bags, milk and eggs were gathered year ‘round, animals were butchered as needed and the meat was stored in crocks.

To supply each member of the family with their “quart a day” you should plan approximately 1,000 to 2,500 square feet of garden space for each person. This amount depends on soil fertility, the crops you choose to grow, methods of cultivation, and the length of your growing season. Other food sources like fruit trees and livestock also play a huge part in the amount of vegetables you need.

A 2,000 square foot garden would be a 40 foot by 50 foot section of your property. This can be a pretty significant undertaking especially if you have no experience gardening. Crops such as squash and cucumbers require significantly more space than spinach, Swiss chard, carrots, onions and beets. Peas, tomatoes and some beans do best with a fence, cage or pole to grow UP on which decreases the square feet necessary.

Here are some rough estimates on space to yield for feeding four people for one year:

*Estimate based on ½ whole and ½ sauce

This chart would be 2,018 square feet of growing space without any paths in between them. I have given the yield in quarts but to have a better idea if this would suit your family, you will probably want to consider pints (or twice as many jars half the size). For example, one pint of beets would probably be adequate for a meal for four people, a 100 foot row will yield around 48 pints which would provide enough beets for one meal a week for a year.

This chart provides 657 quarts plus potatoes, about half of Grandma Carrie’s rule of thumb.

What is the best location for my survival garden?

You will want to make sure you evaluate all possibilities before deciding where to put your garden. Make sure you consider the exposure to the sun, water, soil, and how easy it will be for you to access it as often as you will need to.

Most people think about the first few, but not everyone considers access. The last thing you want to do is put a big garden plot in what you think is a perfect place, only to have to lug all your gardening equipment or any tools you need, to a garden that is now quite inconvenient to get to.

When considering your garden’s placement, you will naturally have to consider the sun and water placement. If you live in the northern hemisphere, you will want to make sure your garden is south of your house, or far enough north of your house that it will not lie in its shadow. Use this same logic when plating. When possible plant so that the taller crops, like corn, on the north end of the garden bed, so that they do not cast a shadow over the other plants.

One of the principles of permaculture is the zones of use. The mindset being that you do not want to expend excess energy to get to things you use all the time, and things that are largely self-managing should be the farthest away. It also simplifies care and harvesting. The zones of use are:

1. Zone 1 is the most visited area or areas. This zone will have things that either need daily attention or that you use daily. Examples of things to grow in zone 1 are seedlings, salad components, cooking herbs, or anything that needs daily water, like a lemon tree. Believe it or not, animals are ideally sited in Zone 1.
2. Zone 2 are things that still need attention, but not specifically daily. If your particular setup allows for it, zone 2 is irrigated. Zone 2 is also mulched. Examples of zone 2 plants would be smaller fruiting trees and trellised fruit vines, bramble berries like blackberries, raspberries, and blueberries. This is also the zone that contains windbreaks, ponds, and barrier hedges. Plants that are only harvested once or twice per season belong here like potatoes and corn.
3. Zone 3 is semi-managed. An example of zone 3 plants would be large and mature fruit and nut trees. It is not mulched, nor visited on any regular basis.
4. Zone 4 is a minimally managed area for foraging wild foods and growing timber.
5. Zone 5 is completely and entirely unmanaged. All pure native plants and wildlife.

Keep in mind what you will eventually be planting, and be sure to plant companions together when possible. The main idea of companion planting is that you plant different crops together, they help sustain each other and ensure you have a strong and fruitful harvest.

Companions can be used for pest deterrents, balancing out nutrients, and attracting pollinators. For instance:

• Tomatoes work very well with beans, chives, and oregano, but not with corn, dill, and potatoes.
• If you want a successful cucumber and squash harvest, plant corn, beans, or radishes with them.
• If you have pine trees on your property, be careful not to place your garden where the shed needles fall, since they make the soil very acidic.

For more on companion planting, check out this comprehensive guide.

Knowing Your Soil is Crucial

The quality of your soil is the imperative. Much more needs to be done to prepare a garden space than simply digging up the lawn. “Friability”, or easy to crumble is normally the first obstacle to overcome. Grasses can grow in clay – or cracks in asphalt for that matter but vegetables need lose, crumbly, loamy soil. Amendments need to be made in the way of compost, perhaps sand and possibly nutrients to alter the pH level.

How do you intend to water your garden? Tomatoes for example, need to be soaked 6-8 inches deep every 5-10 days depending on the heat and amount of rain you have. If the grid is down, is your water down? If you are collecting water in a rain barrel, do you intend to drip irrigate or hand water? Is one barrel enough? Do you have all the materials on hand now?

Want Some Extra Credit? Here Are Some Gardening “Force Multipliers”

The following are tools or techniques used to be more effective at reaching your objective of producing enough food to survive. They help you get the most out of your garden by helping to create ideal conditions, one way or another, for your crops.

Greenhouse

A greenhouse is one of the common things that people think of when picturing a large garden set up. A greenhouse is a large open building that is largely transparent or translucent, allowing in sunlight, but also sealed against the outside elements.

Utilizing a large amount of solar gain, greenhouses are able to trap solar energy in the form of heat, and can often be used to extend the growing season.

Greenhouses can be used to grow later into the year, in order to gain an extra harvest or two, and also to begin earlier each year, by providing a warm place to germinate seeds and give plants a head start before transplanting to the soil once the threat of frost has passed.

Cold Frames

Cold frames use the same principles of trapping solar energy as greenhouses but on a much smaller scale. Cold frames are made from a wooden box similar to a raised bed, frequently angled toward the south. They will usually have a windowed lid, often made from an upcycled home window that is attached to the top with a hinge so that it can tilt open for easy access to the contents.

Cold frames are frequently used in the same manner as full-size greenhouses, to either continue growing past the fall frost dates or to gain an early start by germinating seeds and plant starts before they would normally be able to be put in the ground.

Row Covers

Row covers are also known as low tunnels. A crucial force multiplier for those who utilize planting rows for their crops, row covers can protect from freezing temperatures, wind, and pests.

They are essentially tiny hoop houses that run the length of the planting rows. They are very low to the ground and often only allow around 1-2 feet of clearance for the plants they cover, and as such are only suitable for very young plants or those that grow close to the ground like root vegetables and greens. They help keep the soil in the row warm for early season starts, and for late-season harvests.

Chickens or livestock

Introducing chickens or other small livestock to your survival garden can have several benefits. Not only will they create manure that will be essential to your composting and fertilizing capabilities, but they also can help reduce pests and insects.

People do not give chickens enough credit, they are amazing little omnivores. They eat just about any organic matter you allow them to, but they will also meet you halfway on the cleanup, tilling most of their waste directly into the soil. You do need to keep an eye on them, and make sure that they aren’t sick. If so, there are a handful of DIY chicken doctoring things you can do own your own.

Guinea fowl are another valuable addition, frequently eating so many nuisance insects like ticks, that they will not need any supplemental feeding. Using livestock in conjunction with a rotating pasture system will allow you to always have perfectly fertilized and productive soil ready for planting, while your livestock always has fresh ground to work.

Composting

Generating your own compost is an incredibly valuable process for anyone seeking to grow large amounts of high-quality produce.

Composting is the breaking down of common solid organic matter by aerobic bacteria. It is used to recycle organic material into nutrient-rich material called compost that is similar to humus. It is one of the best soil amendments and can be a valuable fertilizer for self-sustaining gardeners.

Vermicomposting

Similar to composting, the goal of vermicomposting is to create a nutrient dense growing medium from discarded organic materials. The basic process is the same, the organic matter that would normally be discarded is added to the compost pile, decomposed aerobically, and turned into a usable highly fertile soil material.

The difference is that in normal composting the main agent breaking down the matter is aerobic bacteria and other organisms, and with vermicomposting that process is accelerated through the use of earthworms to break down the material faster and more thoroughly than without.

Rainwater harvesting

One of the most valuable resources for gardeners, water, literally falls from the sky. With a little preparation and sweat equity, a rain catchment system can quickly and easily be implemented, allowing the storage of large quantities of water for later use.

Rainwater harvesting is often done with a minimum of special equipment, generally requiring little more than a roof, a gutter with a downspout, and a rain barrel or water tank. Provided measures are taken to discard the water contained in the “first flush” which will contain debris and contaminants that should be allowed to wash away before collection begins, rainwater can easily be made potable.

Earthworks and Landforms

A very effective method of large scale gardening and permaculture resource management is to create earthworks to help control water flow and erosion. These methods can include:

Ditches

Ditches are essentially a trenched drainage device. Ditches are going to be fairly deep and narrow, allowing an easy way to direct high volumes of water that will also be fast-moving.

A ditch will often be used to prevent a surge of water volume from eroding other portions of the gardening or crop areas. For example, ditches may be utilized to funnel water runoff from a large rainstorm away from delicate beds of greens or herbs, and directed to a swale where it can be spread out over a larger area, slowed down, and allowing the water to settle and soak in.

Swales

Swales are large, open, gentle depressions that follow the contour of the land, allowing stormwater runoff a place to slow down and spread out over a larger area, eventually facilitating settling and absorption.

They are broad and shallow and are only slightly depressed when compared to the surrounding area. Swales are perfect for filtering runoff, immobilizing contaminants, pollutants, and particulates by allowing them to settle and be filtered by the surrounding soil.

Hugelkultur

Often thought of as the perfect companion to swales, the hugelkultur or more simply “hugel”, is a hill or a mound for growing, that is built on a foundation of a pile of felled trees or rotten wood. It is ultra-low maintenance and drought-resistant garden and earthworks feature that will produce a fertile mound of growing medium that only gets more productive over the years as the wood continues to rot and release nutrients into the soil around it.

While it takes a good bit of effort to physically construct the hugel, it will compound the benefits it offers over the years. For the first several years after its creation, the aerobic decomposition will have an exothermic effect on the soil, giving you a longer growing season.

In the years following that, the wood will begin to shrink and will create voids that allow a self tilling effect to take place. The rotting wood will also hold water like a sponge, retaining large amounts of water that are automatically released into the surrounding soil, combating dry conditions, and reducing or eliminating the need for separate irrigation.

The main thing to remember with hugels is to use wood in the core that will rot and decay. Do not use any rot-resistant or allelopathic woods like cedar, black walnut, l7 or black locust. They will not rot, and will actually inhibit microbial growth, significantly reducing the desirable effects produced by the decomposition.

Preservation and Long Term Storage

While the short term goal with your garden is to feed yourself and your family, the long-term goal is to have a decent stockpile of survival foods. There are many methods that you can utilize that will allow you to save your harvest and to feed your family over a tough winter or in an emergency.

Root Cellars

One of the oldest long-term storage methods, root cellars work to preserve and store food by using the cool dampness of being underground to their advantage. Root cellars are nice and cool, but still above 32°. They are also humid which allows vegetables to retain their moisture and preventing them from turning rubbery. In addition to root vegetables, cellars are great for storing nuts, seeds, and even some fruits and vegetables.

Canning

Canning is a great way to save meats, stews, veggies, and jams for later use. With canning, you use mason jars to store and preserve your foods and either pressure or hot water method to seal them. The lids of the jar have a wax ring that seals to the rim of the jar. If left in a cool, dark place, home-canned items can be stored for a year or more.

Dehydration

Dehydration is a fantastic way to preserve your favorite fruits, vegetables, and even herbs and meats! Some items you will want to eat in the dried form such as apple chips, others you may want to rehydrate by soaking in hot water or adding to soups and stews.

Seed Saving

While most seeds you won’t be eating, saving your seeds is an easy way to get a jump on your garden for next year. Saving the seeds from fruits and vegetables that you grew this year allows you to cut down on your gardening costs in the future. Heirloom seed preservation is also important for genetic diversity and can be traded and sold.

Getting Started

There are many articles out there inferring that preppers should buy seeds packaged for long term storage so that when the shit hits the fan they can dig up part of the lawn and grow their own food. This is a woefullly misguided notion. Remember, the time to start learning is not when you are hungry.

Once you have taken all the factors into consideration and chosen a location, it is time to plan out your garden. Make a sketch on some graph paper of your garden, and get that seed catalog handy. If you need help planning it, the Farmers Almanac has a very easy to use garden planner.

Once your garden is prepared, your layout is decided, and your seeds have arrived, you probably want to get planting, but you might be wondering when is the best time to start. The good news is, every season has things that can be planted, whether you are in spring, summer, or fall, there are plants that should be going in the ground to get ready for the upcoming growing season.

You might think that because you weren’t ready until late August, you may have missed the summer season. And you would be right! But that’s alright, late-season brassicas do well, and fall is the perfect time to get some garlic and onions in the ground. The same goes for spring and summer, there is always something that needs to get in the ground soon in order to be ready for the upcoming season.

Winter is the perfect time of year to solidify next year’s garden plan. It is time to inventory the pantry to evaluate the most popular crops and adjust the garden space allotments accordingly. Heirloom seeds are inventoried, new seeds are ordered and indoor starts are planted.

Need An Easy Way To Start? Try the 3 Sisters

If you are eager to get started with an easy garden, you may want to try out a small plot with a “3 sisters garden”. This is a method that has been used for thousands of years to grow multiple crops in one place simultaneously, and is a perfect example of function stacking and utilizing natural architecture. This layout can also be adapted to nearly any type of garden.

You will plant beans (generally a pole bean), sweet corn, and squash. The rationale behind the companion plants here is that the corn provides a sturdy stalk for the beans to climb, while the squash leaves shade the soil, minimizes water loss, and prevents weeds, and the beans fix nitrogen in the soil for the corn and the squash to excel.

We will be looking at rifle cartridges that have a velocity of over 3,500 feet per second. There are not many of these out there. That’s because rifle cartridges aren’t the most effective mechanisms for creating high projectile speed.

If you really want to see fast projectile speed, there are a few examples. A depleted-uranium penetrator rod fired from a 120mm smoothbore main gun on the M-1 Abrams tank can go as fast as 6,000 fps. Then there’s the Navy’s Rail Gun, which uses electric current to accelerate projectiles up to 8,000 fps.

Keep in mind that velocity also produces a lot of recoils and also puts a strain on the projectile itself. There needs to be a balance between the force behind the shot to the durability of the brass cartridge as well as your shoulders. Then, there’s also the barrel durability to consider. If your ordinary rifle cartridge goes up to 8,000 fps, then it would either break apart the moment it leaves the barrel, breaks the barrel, or dislocates your shoulders from the recoil.

With that in mind, it’s already a significant achievement for rifle cartridges to breach that goes faster than 3,500 or even 4,000 feet per second while still being safe for the shooter. We’ve pretty much achieved peak velocity in 1935 when the .220 Swift reached 4,110 fps with a 48-grain bullet.

Nowadays, you can get a Swift that can top 4,300 fps without blowing itself up. Other than that, only a few cartridges can go up to 4,500 fps. To this day, no rifle cartridges managed to breach 5,000 fps. I suspect that it wouldn’t happen unless we’ve developed new bullet or gunpowder technology, or that we use something else other than gunpowder and bullets.

Consider subscribing to our channel if you haven’t already for more content like this. Without further ado, let’s get into it.

1. The .220 Swift

Winchester came up with the .220 Swift by trimming down the neck of the 6mm Lee Navy. Not many people know of this cartridge since it only served briefly in the U.S. Navy and Marine Corps with its straight-pull M 1895 rifle. Neither the gun nor its cartridge found success and they were ditched in favor of the .30/40 Krag-Jorgensen, which u nfortunately did not remain in service for long either.

The case is definitely large for a .22 centerfire and it is also semi-rimmed. To produce the Swift, Winchester had to design bullets that can withstand extreme speed, which is harder than you may think. I’ve seen the lead cores of some Swifts melting into liquid moments before hitting the target. Sometimes, the bullets would vaporize soon after leaving the barrel. That’s the kind of stress bullets are subjected to at such extreme speeds.

In addition, the speed also causes significant wear on the barrel itself. To fix this problem, Winchester turned to stainless, but then found out that it’s not possible to blue stainless steel. So they opted to iron-plate the tubes first, then blue them.

Unfortunately, the Swift was not well-received. You can thank certain gun writers for that since they labeled it as unnatural, creepy, and even dangerous. They went on to talk nonsense about it. Despite the tarnished reputation by the media, the Swift managed to survive for the simple fact that it is very accurate, fun to shoot, and does not have any more problems than other cartridges.

A 50-grain bullet can reach 3,900 fps. A 40-grain might be able to reach 4,300. If you want to down a big game in a shot without feeling much in the way of recoil, I believe 60-70-grain bullets will suffice.

2. The .257 Weatherby Magnum

This cartridge is also an ancient round, similar to the Swift. Despite its age, it has been holding up pretty well. It was designed by Roy Weatherby in 1944 and was put up for sale just a year later. Among the entire line from Roy, this one is his favorite. When people called upon to cite the virtues of hypervelocity, Roy pointed to this cartridge.

The .257 Weatherby Magnum is based on the H&H Super 30 and it is normal for all Weatherby Magnums to have very little body taper, a sharp and radiused shoulder, and plenty of powder capacity. This cartridge definitely packs a punch. Back then, Weatherby rifles used to have 24-inch barrels and with 87-grain Hornady bullets, you can expect the velocity around 3,750 fps.

If you’re thinking that this is too much for varmints, then you would be right. This would pulverize small critters. So, the .257 is best used on big game at long range where this cartridge excels. I have the best experience using 115- and 120-grain Nosler Partitions, which have a velocity in the neighborhood of 3,400 fps. Despite the velocity, the recoil is surprisingly light, especially when you think how much powder is in there. That said, the noise would be severe and the barrel life would be quite short.

3. The .30/378 Weatherby

So far, I’ve been discussing cartridges that fire only light bullets. This one deals in slugs that are 180-200 grains or more. The start of its career is quite strange as well. It all started in 1959 when the Army asked Roy Weatherby to put together a single rifle/cartridge combination so they could test the effect of hyper-velocity metal fragments on armor to mimic exploded artillery rounds.

Weatherby came up with a smoothbore rifle and he necked down his .378 round to .30 caliber. With these, he managed to achieve 5,000 fps. Of course, words of this terrifying firepower got out and the .30/378 immediately became popular. In 1996, Weatherby made it a production cartridge and it is one of his most popular rounds to date. He loads a wide variety of ammo for it. The 165-grain Barnes copper bullet can reach the velocity of 3,450 fps and the 220-grain Hornady ELD-X could reach up to 3,050 fps.

Of course, this amount of firepower is only suitable for the big game at extreme distances. Prudent hunters would choose to go with the heaviest slug possible since it would retain the most velocity over the distance. Weatherby puts a 26-inch barrel to its rifles in this caliber, so you can’t go any shorter than that. Also, you must use a brake.

Also, only use this cartridge when your target is at least 400 yards away. The further the better. Any closer than that and the damage would be horrendous. Ear protection is a must, even when hunting. The barrel life is also short, with some shooters reporting that theirs lasted as little as 600 rounds.

4. The .224 Clark

If you look at pure performance, this cartridge shouldn’t be on this list since its velocity is only 3,550 fps. However, I feel it wouldn’t do it justice considering that the Clark was designed in the early 60s. It managed to achieve that velocity with 80-grain bullets, so this is a cartridge that is at least five decades ahead of modern long-range loads such as the .224 Valkyrie. The Valkyrie achieved the same speed with 90-grainers.

The .224 Clark was the masterpiece made by a gunsmith named Kenneth Clark from Moderna, California. He figured out that initial velocity isn’t everything, but rather the retained speed downrange. He knew this half a century before everyone else. So now, you have .223 shooters who are required to use 77-grain bullets for mid-range targets at around 600 yards.

Clark then selected the .257 Roberts case, blew it out, and gave it a 30-degree shoulder. He then designed his own 80- and 82-grain bullets. The best rate of twist was 1-9, which is incredibly fast. Understandably, this puts a lot of stress on the slugs. To fix this problem, Clark built them strong and came up with a double jacket for heavier slugs, because he knew that people would use this for the big game.

The .224 Clark worked well, but it never became that popular and it eats through barrels quickly as well. Nonetheless, it is definitely a cartridge that is way ahead of its time and is worth mentioning in this list.

5. The .22 Eargesplitten Loudenboomer

If you want to go hard, then this is the best option for you. The .22 EL was created in the 1960s by a gunsmith named P.O. Ackley. His goal was to create a cartridge that can achieve 5,000 fps. It was the apocalyptic .378 Weatherby Magnum necked down to .224, with pretty much no other changes made.

Then, Ackley shipped the .22 EL rifle off to Bob Hutton who operated Hutton’s Rifle Range in Topanga, California. He did all the rifle testing for Guns & Ammo magazine in the 60s. Bob’s range was located in a box canyon, so he could make as much noise as he wanted. He would definitely be called in for questioning nowadays if someone hears the ruckus he was causing. With 50-grain bullets, Bob managed to hit 4,600 fps, but could not quite breach that 5,000 fps barrier. It is possible that we could make it using ultra-slow powders today.