If you are looking for a unique and thrilling hunting adventure, stalking javelina is unlike anything you have experienced before. These small but ferocious animals have developed a devoted fan base of hunters who dedicate themselves to the observation and hunting of these southwestern mammals.

The key to a successful javelina hunt is knowing as much about your prey as possible. Here is our comprehensive guide to everything you need to know about the javelina.

What Is a Javelina?

The javelina resembles a wild pig and is one of three species of peccary, which is defined as a social, pig-like animal.

They have short, coarse, brindled hair that lightens around the neck, giving the appearance of a collar. They have a snout and small eyes, similar to a pig, and they walk on their front two digits. However, unlike a pig or wild boar whose tusks are curved, the javelina’s tusks are straight, having evolved for crushing fibrous material, seeds, and roots.

Habitat

There are only three species of peccaries in the world. The javelina’s Latin name is Tayassu tajacu, and its cousins are the white-lipped peccary, which lives in Southern Mexico to Northern South America, and the Chacoan peccary that lives in Bolivia, Argentina, and Paraguay.

If you’re wondering where to shoot for javelina, they thrive in rocky, arid climes like the desert of the southwestern United States in parts of Texas, Arizona, and New Mexico. They prefer areas such as the saguaro desert that offer ample supplies of prickly pears and mesquite. You can also find herds close to desert watering holes and other permanent water sources.

As they are unable to cool down through evaporation like other animals, they tend to remain in shady areas such as under cliffs and caves during the hottest parts of the day and venture out to forage when it is cooler.

Habits

Rapacious omnivores, javelinas will eat almost anything they come across. Their primary food sources are desert plants, but, on occasion, they’ll eat grubs, birds’ eggs, bugs, and reptiles like lizards.

Their favorite plants to munch on include sotol, prickly pear, agave, some types of tubers, and acorns from the scrub oak.

Although they aren’t great for eating, the larger predators like black bears, mountain lions, and jaguars all feast on javelinas from time to time. Bobcat, coyote, and other smaller predators avoid the javelina, perhaps because of the threat of its razor-sharp tusks and unshakeable fighting acumen.

Javelinas are incredibly social animals and stay in groups almost all of the time. This means, when you’re out hunting javelinas, if you see one, there are sure to be more somewhere close by.

Physiology

Javelinas resemble pigs in that they have stout bodies, a snout, bristly hair, and a jutting underbite on their bullet-shaped heads. Although they closely resemble the family of pig and boar, they are very distant cousins, as the genetic split between these species occurred over 30 million years ago.

Mature javelinas weigh between 40 and 60 pounds, and they sport brownish-gray bristles with a highlighted, prominent collar between their shoulders.

They have scent glands, as one of their keenest senses is their sense of smell. This particular physiological detail can help you find javelina, as the musky smell they use to communicate and mark their territories is quite pungent and leaves a trail.

They have incredibly poor eyesight compared to their super sense of smell. Because of this, javelinas often feed at dusk in the thick brush where they don’t need good vision to find sustenance.

How to Find a Javelina

Some clues indicating the presence of prey while you’re hunting javelinas are signs of feeding. You’ll see chewed-up prickly pear paddles, shredded agave and sotol, and cow patties that have been rooted. You’ll also see turned-up ground where the javelinas have snuffled through the first layer of undergrowth.

Under rocky overhangs, in tucked-away places in the shade and out of the desert sun, you’ll often find evidence of javelinas bedding down. You can also sniff them out, as their powerful musk glands, located at both their hind ends and heads, exude a pungent, telltale olfactory clue.

How to Stalk a Javelina

The primary tactic of javelina hunting is to spot them, and then stalk them. Glassing, or using your binoculars to spot your prey, should be your focus when hunting javelinas. Set up optics from a high vantage point for the best view and for effective concealment. They camouflage well against the backdrop of the desert, and it may take a while for you to spot a group.

Once you find a group of javelinas, your main tactic should be to play to the wind. Javelinas rely on their sense of smell, so you have to mask your own scent as much as possible so they don’t get wind of your presence.

Once you get within 50 yards of the javelinas, take into account their hearing and eyesight. Although not the strongest of their senses, javelinas can still see and hear you. If you are spotted, freeze for a few minutes. Javelinas have very short attention spans. They will usually forget about you if you are completely still for a while.

How to Bag a Javelina

Javelinas respond with vigor to a distress call of another javelina. Being social animals, they react with a speed and ferocity unmatched by other big game. A call blown outside of 75 yards might not elicit much of a response—but call within range of the bristly creatures, and they’ll come running.

When you’re lining up a shot at individual javelina, remember that their vitals are small, so you must be very accurate to make an ethical shot. Sometimes, a bullet will go through one javelina and hit the one behind it as well.

These aren’t huge animals, but they are some of the fiercest prey animals many hunters have come up against. Match your weapon to your prey and come in close to set up the perfect shot.

Once you’ve bagged javelina, take the time to remove its scent glands, both fore and aft. If left untouched, the scent glands can flavor the meat and hide, leaving a foul taste and odor.

If you want to eat your trophy, you will have to dress the animal in the field to get rid of those scent glands. Once this is accomplished, treat the javelina much like a boar in butchering and cooking techniques. Slow roasted javelina or a javelina stew both make the most of this fierce desert animal.

Although on the smaller side, javelinas are tough little beasts that offer a lot of challenges when spotting them, stalking them, and bagging them. They have a tenacious spirit and razor-sharp tusks that make any hunters’ heart rate speed up.

Everybody knows what not to wear when you’re hunting; fur boots, a gas mask, and anything bright. What’s more difficult is knowing exactly what to wear, as well as which brands you can trust for hunting gear.

Today, I’ll be looking at some of the best hunting clothes brands and highlighting a bit about what makes each of them distinct, whether it’s their history, their innovations, or their product catalog.

The 10 Best Hunting Clothes Brands

#1: Sitka

If you have even a passing interest in the world of hunting clothes then you already know about Sitka.

Their layered garments are big deals and highly coveted by hunters everywhere. The company is also famous for their inventive use of GORE-TEX in their clothes to improve their waterproofing and overall durability.

It’s funny that I describe Sitka as standing atop the hunting clothes mountain because that’s where their story literally began.

The company’s founders were atop a freezing cold peak, desperately trying to hunt game, but suffered from underwhelming equipment. It was then that they realized that they weren’t alone.

I’m not saying that Bigfoot snuck up on them, but that their loneliness was a metaphor for how customers felt when they hunted using less-than-stellar apparel. Thus, they set out to make clothing that could withstand any and all elements.

That’s why many of their items contain materials like the aforementioned GORE-TEX alongside others like PrimaLoft and Polygiene.

Sitka develops all their items to be tough and dependable regardless of whether they’re made for big game, whitetail, waterfowl, or turkey hunting.

Highlights

• One of the most popular hunting clothes brands means their items are easy to find
• Gracious warranty and return policy
• Contributes grants to pro-environmental causes

#2: Kuiu

Jason Hairston founded Kuiu in 2011 as a way for customers to reliably purchase his designs.

Kuiu cut out the middle man and used a direct-to-consumer model that reduced costs, helped the brand develop deeper ties with their fanbase, and gain more intel to improve their products.

Their humble beginnings and close relationship with their customers helped Kuiu become one of the best hunting clothes brands of the past decade.

They became so beloved and regarded by people across the United States that they gained the approval of larger brands that wanted to support their vision.

The Main Post Partners, a California-based firm, invested $50m in Kuiu in 2017, allowing Hairston’s company to expand even more.

They used the investment to improve their testing policies in weather conditions like winter tundra, monsoons, and nighttime eclipses.

Kuiu is especially noted for their high-quality camouflage. Their designs use dense materials like Quixdown, 3DEFX+, and DOT AIR for flexible, reliable, and inconspicuous apparel.

Highlights

• Began as a small company, then expanded by building customer rapport
• Kuiu Inner Circle membership provides bonuses and exclusive perks
• Benefits and discounts for military members and first responders

#3: Filson

Let’s turn the clocks back to 1897, the year the electric bicycle was invented and Amelia Earheart was born.

Dwarfing both of those facts was Filson’s establishment. The Seattle-based company started by making clothes for pioneers and explorers during the Yukon Gold Rush, and only grew from there.

Nowadays you may feel like you’ve struck gold and feel quite a rush when you look through Filson’s wardrobe. They’ve recently adopted a larger lifestyle focus but still manufacture plenty of outwear items, vests, pants, and garments for fishers and hunters.

Filson’s catalog is more casual than some of the other best hunting clothing brands. That’s not a bad thing since there are few companies that make pieces that can fit in at a bar and in the wilderness as Filson’s.

So they’re a brand to look into if you want a more fashionable type of hunting apparel.

Highlights

• Versatile and modern looks
• Free shipping on all US orders over $75
• Free returns on all purchases

#4: Kryptek

If the first thing that popped into your head when you read this brand’s name was something about cryptocurrency then I’m sorry to disappoint you. Maybe I can make it up to you by explaining why Kryptek is one of the best hunting clothes brands.

Thankfully, their distinguishing features are instantly apparent. Kryptek’s clothes have a quality that most other brands couldn’t dream of matching.

The American brand uses military-grade technology to make military-worthy gear that doesn’t cost as much as a US fighter jet.

Kryptek was created by military veterans who realized that most hunting clothes lacked the durability of military wear. Their experience in their field gave them the insight necessary to apply combat-wear technology to hunting apparel.

It’s how they were able to introduce micro and macro-level camouflage designs and Kryptek Cool Touch fabrics (among other innovations) to consumer-level goods. They’re a great brand if you want hunting clothes that exude durability.

Highlights

• The company was founded by military veterans
• Unique camouflage technology gives a three-dimensional camo appearance
• Many retail locations in Washington

#5: Orvis

Orvis is a company that predates many modern hunting technologies like GPS, red dot sight, and online shopping. They’re actually the oldest active made-to-order business in the United States, which is a sign of Orvis’ commitment to customer satisfaction.

They began all the way back in 1856 in Manchester, Vermont by making fishing equipment. Fishing has remained part of their product repertoire alongside hunting goods for men, women, and children, and a fully developed line of canine items.

Activism is deeply embedded into Orvis’ DNA. They’ve donated to wildlife conversation organizations since the late 1800s. Orvis sends 5% of their annual income to environmental projects like the Atlantic Salmon Federation, Nature Conservancy, and the Ruffled Grouse Society.

You’ll find traditional rough-and-tough hunting gear standing shoulder to shoulder with relaxed trousers, sweaters, and polos in Orvis’ catalog, meaning they have an item for nearly every occasion.

Highlights

• Some of their proceeds are redistributed towards conservation efforts
• Free shipping on all orders if you use the code FREESHIP
• New subscribers of their email newsletter can receive a 15% discount

#6: First Lite

The next entry in my list of the best hunting clothes brands is this Idaho-based company. First Lite was entirely the product of their environment.

Founders Kenton Carruth and Scott Robinson both got their feet wet in the winter sports industry and wanted to find a way to combine winter technology with Idaho’s hunting potential.

They found that merino wool kept them warm at night, cool during the day, and didn’t leave them steaming with sweat the next day. The material’s versatility formed the backbone of First Lite’s mantra; to develop hunting clothes for any situation.

Interestingly, the desire to create versatile products allowed them to develop specific lines of clothes. First Lite has sets dedicated to some of these types of game:

1. Southern turkey
2. Northern turkey
3. Spring bear
4. Archery elk
5. Western big game

First Line develops simple garments for every layer. They make everything from boxer briefs to jackets, and every piece should last you through most seasons.

Highlights

• Use materials like merino wool
• Free shipping on orders over $199
• Can ship internationally

#7: Drake

You have no idea how many puns I want to make about this company, but I’m turning a new leaf here at Honest Brand Reviews. Therefore, Drake Waterfowl is safe, unlike the game you might be hunting if you wear one of their items.

As you can probably guess from their name, Drake Waterfowl planted their flag in the industry for their duck-hunting equipment.

However, focusing just on that would undermine the quality of their other collections. The brand also produces high-quality fishing, collegiate, non-typical, and casual apparel.

These apparel lines aren’t copied and pasted from one another either. Drake Waterfowl spends plenty of resources testing their products in the field. They tinker with each item’s construction to improve them for their intended purpose.

That’s why some of their lines, like the Drake Waterfowl Endurance Series, are made with flexibility but a bit more weight than other lines.

The style of game determines their functionality, and Drake Waterfowl take great care in tailoring their products to customer needs.

Highlights

• One of the best hunting clothes brands for duck hunting
• Items are intelligently designed for their specific purposes
• You can earn free shipping on orders over $75 if you sign up for the brand’s email newsletter

#8: King’s Camo

Here’s a screwback of an origin story for one of the best hunting clothes brands. King’s Camo originally started in 1995 as a manufacturer of graphic tees for King’s Calendars.

They started developing camo shirts in 2000 and launched their tentpole King’s Desert Shadow Camo two years later.

The design marked a shift in this company’s goals, and they pivoted hard towards making more hunting gear.

However, their focus still remains on innovating their camouflage. King’s Camo digs deeper into how a pattern can affect one’s performance on the hunt. You won’t find a company that puts more thought into camouflage patterns than these guys.

Seeing as that’s the case, their materials may not be as tough as some of the other best hunting clothes brands, but that’s not necessarily a bad thing given that King’s Camo still uses quality materials and isn’t cutting any corners.

Their defined vision caters to people who want to achieve supreme stealth.

Highlights

• They focus on optimizing camouflage patterns and textures
• Agreeable prices
• Free shipping on US orders that total more than $150

#9: Banded

Banded is a company that can make ducks quiver in their boots. They’re one of the best hunting clothes brands for waterfowl because many of their items are designed for warmer weather when fowl are more abundant. Banded’s products are uniformly lightweight and agile.

Their items are pretty stupendous when you consider the technology behind them. They utilize a GoSystem technical layering scheme where each of their products is divided into one of three categories:

• Shield layer
• Mid-layer
• Core layer

Each one serves a specific purpose but provides a versatile cover when combined. You can layer them atop one another without overheating or weighing yourself down.

Banded’s line of casual clothing is robust. They have athleisure pieces (and everyone could use more athleisure clothing in my opinion), sweaters, pullovers, trousers, and hats.

Highlights

• Lightweight and flexible waterfowl apparel
• A diverse collection of casual pieces
• VIP membership comes with exclusive perks

#10: Mossy Oak Camo

The final company I’ll highlight in my list of the best hunting clothes brands is one that came from the humblest of beginnings.

Mossy Oak Camo was founder Toxey Haas’ way of commemorating the leaves, earth, and branches scattered across his West Point, Mississippi stomping grounds. He worked alongside a company in 1986 to develop a fabric that would mimic those textures.

The design helped hunters blend into their surroundings more effectively, and Mossy Oak Camo slowly gained a strong foothold within the industry.

They’ve continued to reiterate and improve their designs too, launching new lines like the Mossy Oak Camo Obsession, the Mossy Oak Camo Elements Auga, and the Mossy Oak Camo Shadow Grass Blades.

As you can probably assume, this brand provides a huge array of camouflage patterns and textures.

Their assortment of subdivisions allows them to cover most types of game in most environments, making them a proverbial one-stop-shop for hunting apparel.

Highlights

• A diverse collection of camouflage
• Strong fanbase community that spurs each other to engage in environmental conservation
• Official partner of organizations like the DU, NWTF, and NRA

How to Shop For The Best Hunting Clothes

By now, you’re aware of what the best hunting clothes brands are, but you still might not know how to choose the best hunting apparel for you.

Luckily, I’ve cooked up a quick checklist that you can run through to help guide your decision.

Brand

Branding matters for a few reasons. Some brands can only ship to specific locations, some are more prosocial in environmental concerns, and some dedicate more time to customer satisfaction.

All of these can affect which of the best hunting clothes brands is the best for you without even seeing their product gallery.

Materials and Sustainability

The materials matter in hunting because they can influence a piece’s functionality. Comfort only matters so much if your pieces restrict your movement or don’t protect you against poor weather conditions.

Durability

An item’s durability refers to how well it can withstand the elements and the physical activity required in hunting. You don’t always need the heaviest-duty apparel, but you definitely want something that can get the job done.

Camouflage Abilities

Nobody ever wants to stick out like a sore thumb, especially when it comes to hunting. Some of the best hunting clothes brands that I listed made their names with their camouflage abilities, which speaks to how important good camo is in hunting.

Size

Size partially plays into camouflage and functionality, as a piece that’s too small can restrict movement while one that’s too large can be cumbersome.

Additional Features

Do you need an item that has additional protection? How about a jacket with plenty of storage for accessories? These are all extra features that can determine whether a piece is right for you.

Price

The best way to look at a product’s price is that it’s the sum of all the previous factors I just listed. You know that a cheap hunting jacket is going to be lacking in at least one regard, so it’s worth your time and effort to buy one that earns its price tag.

FAQ

What to wear to stay warm while hunting?

The best way to stay warm while you hunt is by layering up. You should build your layers like this:

• A base layer of merino wool
• A mid-layer that insulates while wicking away moisture, ex. Fleece
• A top layer that protects against the wind and rain

What is the best color to wear while hunting?

This depends on what game you’re hunting and where you’re hunting. Neutral and earthy colors are the smartest ones to wear as you’ll want to blend into your environment.

Can you hunt in jeans?

The problem with hunting in jeans is not the material – in fact, denim is a great fabric for hunting because it’s so durable – but the color. If you do hunt in jeans then opt for neutral tones rather than blue jeans.

What camo is best for deer hunting?

You’re going to want to choose a green camouflage when you go deer hunting. Prime deer season is when many plants are at their most vibrant, so you’ll want to fit into the flora.

Final Thoughts

The best hunting clothes brands all serve similar purposes – to help you become the best hunter possible – in their own unique ways. I hope that my list has helped you decide which company most closely aligns with what you’re looking for in a piece of hunting apparel.

Check out some of our recently published articles:

10 Best Jacket Brands

8 Best Carpet Brands

10 Best Watch Brands For Women

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Need a salmon fishing primer (or refresher)? Here’s the short take on the types of salmon you can pursue and the various methods that are used to target each species.

King SalmonSilver SalmonRed Salmon

King Salmon

Probably the most prized fish in Alaska, Kings are also one of the most difficult to catch. King salmon tend to swim in the deepest part of the river, which is typically right down the center. In places like the Kenai River, this makes it very difficult for shore anglers to catch them. However, for the patient and experimental shoreline angler, there are many opportunities to catch kings. Fish for kings a couple hours before and after a tidal change. Often, flies are used on low tides, and bait/lures are used on high tide. Before fishing for kings, make sure to get a king tag! This is the only species which requires an additional tag for legal fishing.

Flies: Use large, bright flies. Let these flow down the river at the same pace as the current (adjust weight as necessary). Kings are notoriously light biters, so if your fly stops, set the hook and hold on!

Spinning/Casting: Use large, bright lures (Vibrax size 5-6, Pixies, in pink, orange, chartreuse, blue, etc). For bait, you can use herring (near salt water) or salmon roe (all situations). This can be fished under a bobber, or from the bottom up. If you’re fishing from the bottom up, put your weight about 24” above the hook. Use any weight you’re comfortable with, but you want enough on there to either hold the bait in place under the water, or to bounce along at the same pace of the current. Use a “double mooch” (two hooks, one tied a couple inches above the other. You can buy them as premade rigs or set them up yourself. Put a golfball-sized piece of bait on the TOP hook, using the egg knot line to secure it down. Let the second hook dangle empty. Just cast this setup at your 10 o’clock position, and drift through your 2 o’clock position. Repeat.

Silver Salmon/Pink Salmon/Chum Salmon

The technique here is pretty much exactly the same as it was for King Salmon. The difference is where these fish swim. These salmon species tend to sit either in clear water or just on the edge of clear water. Clear water occurs when a small stream flows into a murky-colored stream. If there is no clear spots (or they are all clear), look for deep holes where the water slows down. This occurs around bends, behind big rocks, near trees, etc. Keep in mind that the reason fish will sit right outside of clear water is that they can be spooky. If there is a lot of bright sunlight, try using dark fly/lure patterns. These spooky fish will be less scared, and more inclined to bite.

Red Salmon

Red salmon (Sockeye) are one of Alaska’s most popular salmon. The best locations are typically the Kenai River, Russian River, and Kasilof River. These fish swim very close to the shore in medium swift currents. Don’t be the unaware fisherman who wades out 20ft only to block everyone else from catching the fish that are swimming behind you! Reds are not aggressive biters, so the common method of catching them is called “flossing”. The idea is that if you lay your line low in the water, the salmon will pick up the line in their mouth. At this point you “set the hook,” which draws the hook into the corner of the fish’s mouth. This requires using the right amount of weight so that the line and hook move along the bottom of the river at the same pace of the current (This is important***). You can use any type of weight you feel comfortable with. Splitshot, slinkies, and sinklines are all common types. Leader lengths (the line between your weight and your fly) will vary based on water conditions. On the Russian River, where the stream is narrow and quick, typical leader lengths are between 18” and 24”. On the Kenai River, where the water is deep and wide, leader length is more often between 3’ and 5’. Adjust the leader length when needed. The goal is to ensure that the line and fly lay flat along the bottom. The standard fly to use is called the Russian River Fly (~.35 cents), but more effective alternatives are the #4 sockeye special and polar shrimp. These are more effective because they have a shorter shank. In the lower/middle Kenai River you can use larger hooks (a popular option is the 2/0 Octopus hook). You can use any sort of fly, as long as you can visibly see it in the water (this helps target fish and drift speed of the fly) and is legal (see the current regulations) – this usually means smaller than size 2 or 4).

The technique is fairly simple, and if you follow it, you have a great chance to land lots of fish. First, determine where you want to fish. Pull out enough line that you can “flip” your fly out about 15-20 ft (adjust this based on where fish are). Flip your line as far as it will go to your “10 o’clock position”, which should be past and upstream of your fish. Keeping your line taught, drift the line through the water at the same pace of the current until your line points to your “2 o’clock position”. Repeat. Remember, adjust your weight if your line is moving too quickly or slowly. This will be the difference between catching and not catching fish.

What’s that wild vine on tree? Are those grapes?! Wild grapes are closely related to table grapes and easy to identify for beginning foragers. In this post I’ll tell you everything you need to know about identifying, harvesting, and cooking with all their edible parts.

Wild grapes are the first wild fruit I ever picked, tasted, and really enjoyed cooking with. I first read about my local riverbank grape (Vitis riparia) that grow in the Midwest in the book The Forager’s Harvest by Samuel Thayer.

Wild Grape Vine Identification

This post focuses on Vitis riparia-the most common wild grape in North America. Vitis aestivalis, the summer grape, I see occasionally but is not as common. There’s many other plants in the grape family you might find, like the fox grape and Oregon grape. Any edible wild grape can be used as I describe here.

The plants appear as spreading, woody vines with heart-shaped, lobed leaves. They climb trees and other plants to photosynthesize. Once you know them, you’ll be able to spot them at a distance from anywhere.

Key ID Points

• The tough leaves have toothed edges with raised veins on the underside.
• Very young leaves are light yellow-green.
• Mature leaves are darker green. Each vine has small, young tendrils at the edge.
• Leaves can vary drastically in size with some varieties.
• The bark peels off in strips on the branches of older grape vines.

Wild Grape Look Alikes

There’s a few look alikes beginners should be aware of. The two most common I see are Canada moonseed and Virginia creeper. False grape (Ampelopsis sp.) is also a look alike but I don’t see it often, and it’s harmless if consumed on accident.

Canada Moonseed (Menispermum canadense)

Canada moonseed is also a vine, and could be mistaken for wild grapes at a distance. This is the only, real poisonous wild grape look alike I know of.

Canada Moonseed vs Wild Grape

Here’s a few key points on how to separate them from grapes:

Canada Moonseed:

• Lacks teeth on the leaf margins
• Is often noticeably paler green color, especially when young.
• The stems are thinner and more delicate than grape vines.
• Canada moonseed vines spiral around their support, while grapes do not.
• The fruit contains a single crescent-shaped seed. Grapes have round seeds.
• The fruit isn’t nearly as bountiful as grapes and doesn’t grow in tight clusters.

Virginia Creeper / Woodbine

Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia) is a common, aggressive growing vine. It’s the most common wild grape look alike I get messages about. The plant has palmately compound leaves made up of five serrated leaflets.

Virginia creeper fruit doesn’t grow in clusters like grapes. An easy way to separate it from grape plants is the berries fruit on red stems. The fruit tastes bad, but is harmless.

Habitat

Wild grapes grow just about anywhere. I see them creeping up yards and fences, climbing trees, and around the edges of forests. As the name implies (river grape) they also love to grow along rivers and streams.

My grandmother has a wild grape vine that has grown up her trellises on the side of their deck, and their friends come every year to pick the grapes and make wild grape wine.

When to Harvest Wild Grapes

Grape harvest season is generally around mid-late August, but my harvest plan begins much earlier. If you’re out foraging during the growing season, it’s easy to see where the grapes will be fruiting heavy. Make a note of spots you see during the year and come back when they’re ready.

When the grapes are ripe and deep purple (preferably without any unripe green grapes), cut off whole clusters with a scissors and put them in a box or other container.

I never bother to harvest grapes after a frost, as some recommend as, by the time the frosts come, our Midwest grapes will be dried out.

How to Make Wild Grape Juice

Once I bring the grapes home, I try to process them into juice quickly so they don’t dry out in the fridge. Here’s what I do:

Take the grapes, stems and all, making sure they’re clean and free of grit (taste a few to make sure and wash if you need/want) and put them in a large pot. Next, I mash the grapes up with a potato masher, mixing it around here and there to make sure I’m getting grapes from the bottom.

When the grapes are mashed up and juicy, I add some water, just enough to make sure that the grapes are completely covered by an inch or so of juice. The reason for the water is that wild grape juice is very thick, and a little extra liquid will make processing much easier-it will not dilute the strong flavor of your wild grape juice.

After the grapes are mashed up and I’ve added the water, I put the pot on the stove and allow it to get hot enough to steam. Don’t bring the pot to a boil, you just want to get it warm as it makes the juice relax and will help it go through a strainer, which will give you the highest yield possible.

I carefully dump the grape juice and skins into a colander in a large bowl, allow it to drain, then I remove the leftover skins and stems, allow them to cool until I can handle them, then wring out the juice.

Typically I use cheesecloth to wring out the juice, but you can do it by hand if you have to. This can be a messy process, and you’ll see in the video at the end of this post that I do it in a garage.

From here I strain the thick juice one more time through a fine strainer. The finished grape juice can be frozen, or processed into things like jelly or wild grape reduction, etc. You can use raw grape juice pressed from the fruit, but you’ll get a lot less juice, and it’s very strong.

Safety Note: Tartaric Acid

Wild grape juice isn’t something to drink as-is, since it’s very tart and thick. I can’t drink the juice raw at all, as my tongue is sensitive to it, and I know others that share my sensitivity.

The most important thing to know is the juice contains tartaric acid and calcium oxalate crystals that can cause loose bowels when consumed.

Thankfully it’s easy to remove the oxalate and tartaric acid as they settle to the bottom of the container after cooking and juicing. Let the juice settle overnight, then pour off the grape juice, discarding any sediment at the bottom.

What to Make with Wild Grapes

There’s lots of things you can do with your grape juice, as well as the edible grape leaves. Here’s a few examples.

Homemade Grape Vinegar

There’s still goodness left in those wild grape stems, skins and pits, and while you could pour some water over them, mix them up, and strain it to get a weak juice.

I prefer to use the leftover mash to make homemade vinegar that I use instead of red wine vinegar. It’s fantastic. See the full recipe with proportions for fruit scrap vinegar here.

A Red Wine Substitute

The finished juice is perfect for wine, jams and jellies, but there’s lots of other things you can do with it too. I use wild grape juice for all purpose cooking in recipes that call for red wine.

I also make a reduction from it you can use similarly to saba or balsamic vinegar reduction-a sort of wild grape molasses inspired by a traditional fruit juice reduction called pekmez from Turkey (typically made with mulberries).

Stuffed Grape Leaves

Wild grape leaves are essentially the same grape leaves sold in many stores, but it did take me a couple years and dating a Greek woman to figure it out.

Grape leaves should be harvested while you’re checking on grapes growing throughout the season. Once the grapes are ready, a lot of the leaves will be past-prime. I can collect hundreds of leaves from a single vine or two in an hour if I’m working quickly.

Fermented grape leaves are edible and fantastic for their most traditional use: stuffing. Since they’re tough, tannic and sour, you’re not going to be making a salad out of them, although I’ve had some preparations where the leaves are pickled or fermented and then cut into pieces and used in dishes.

Fermented grape leaves are traditionally used for stuffing (dolma, dolmathes, dolmades, etc) and it’s hard to find a better way to enjoy the leaves.

If you’ve ever had commercially pickled grape leaves, they can be very strong on the vinegar, and I know plenty of people that don’t care for them. Foraged grape leaves you pick yourself though, are a blank canvas for whatever flavor you like. See my recipe for fermented grape leaves.

Grape Tendrils

These are small, but fun if you have some grape vines growing in the house or around the backyard. The young, tender tendrils/tips of grape vines are nice and tart, and add a great taste to salads. Try them!

Wild Grape Jelly

Foraged grape jelly is one of the best you’ll ever have. It’s the grown up version of what you put on a peanut butter and jelly sandwich, but with a flavor beyond comparison of the watered-down jelly in stores. It’s easy to make, and I often don’t even use pectin as the seeds are naturally high in it.

Wild Grape Recipes

Wild Grape Reduction

Fermented Grape Leaves

Grape Leaves Stuffed with Fruit and Nuts

Bison Cooked in Wild Grape Juice

Goose Confit Glazed with Grape Reduction

The Tlingit (/ˈklɪŋkɪt/ or /ˈtlɪŋɡɪt/; also spelled Tlinkit; Russian: Тлинкиты) are indigenous peoples of the Pacific Northwest Coast of North America. Their language is the Tlingit language (natively Lingít, pronounced [ɬɪ̀nkɪ́tʰ]), in which the name means ‘People of the Tides’. The Russian name Koloshi (Колоши, from a Sugpiaq-Alutiiq term kulut’ruaq for the labret worn by women) or the related German name Koulischen may be encountered referring to the people in older historical literature, such as Grigory Shelikhov‘s 1796 map of Russian America.

How Raven Brought Light and Why Seagulls Cry

Before humans, the animals lived on the Earth. Each were given a cedar box from the Great Spirit, and when they opened the boxes mountains, rivers, trees and everything nice came out. (It’s the reserve Pandora’s Box!) Thus, the geography of the Earth was made. However, there was a problem. Why was it so dark?! The animals were walking into each other. Birds were flying into mountains. All in all, it was a bad time. So, where was the box full of light? Oh shit. Seagull had it. Not good. Seagull is like it’s MINE! No one is allow to touch it. Then he holds the box protectingly under his wings. But what is a trickster if they don’t have a plan? So, Raven flew up the Seagull and was like, can’t you open the box? Seagull is like mine. Raven flattered Seagull. He begged Seagull. He lied to Seagull. He tried every trick up in his arsenal. And what does Seagull do?

LAST FORT OF THE TLINGIT

In Alaska, in the early 19th century, the Tlingit – an indigenous people of Northwest America – built a final physical barrier to block the advance of the invaders. This place, in fact, was the scene of the last bloody battles between the indigenous peoples of Canada and the Russian soldiers, before Russia colonized the land in 1804. The Russians first invaded Alaska in 1799 and the Tlingit clans successfully repulsed their colonization attempts. However, the indigenous people he had to give in to Russian attacks in the attack on October 1, 1804, forever abandoning the last fort – nicknamed Shiskinou (meaning “village fortress”). Historical descriptions of the location of the fort were based on the features of the nearby landscape, offering only a general suggestion where the fort was located. However, the exact location has always remained uncertain. All this until new research found the fort’s unusual perimeter shape in Sitka National Historical Park, at the mouth of Kasda Heen (Indian River).

TLINGIT RAVEN RATTLE

Shark, Raven, Bird, Human. What does it mean to find these life forms intermingled within a singular piece, in the shape of a rattle? In Tlingit society, the interactions among these beings and the mythologies associated with them represent cultural interpretations of individual and clan relationships. Specific aspects of these relations and beliefs led to the amalgamation of stylized versions of marine animals, birds, and other enigmatic figures in this hand-held rattle carved from wood. This “Dance Rattle”—aptly described as the “Shark on Raven” rattle—was an object purchased by art collector and ethnologist Louis Shotridge (Tlingit) during the 1927 Wanamaker Expedition to acquire Northwest Coast Native objects. During the late 1800s to early 1900s, the Canadian and American governments began pressuring Native people to set aside their cultural objects and adopt aspects of Western culture. Shotridge observed that many Tlingit objects were leaving their communities of origin, and landing in museums. The Free Museum of Science and Art (forerunner to the Penn Museum) had only a small collection of Northwest Coast Native objects, but Shotridge was determined to improve the representation of Tlingit culture at Penn. He persuaded Museum Director George Byron Gordon to fund travel expenses to Southeastern Alaska to collect objects for the Museum. According to Associate Curator Lucy Fowler Williams, these were the first University Museum expeditions led by a Native person, and Shotridge “found the Museum to be a safe haven for Native materials.”

Tlingit ‘Raven’ story

ONE DAY, MY SON asked me, “How do we know if history is true?” He was 9 years old at the time, and his question shocked me. I explained to him that there are those who remember what happened, there is the evidence of what happened, and there are those who write it down. I told him that if enough of the stories match, then we all agree — that is what happened. I reminded him that this is how it “easily” works when the written word is the documentation for history, and that when it comes to Native history, we have to get the story right every time we tell it. High-level discussion with a 9-year-old. But his question has immediate relevance to this exhibition. There are countless Raven stories in the Tlingit community, and there are many versions of how Raven came to bring the light to the world. The stories are not necessarily contradictory, but they do emphasize different points and have different details, depending on whom the caretaker of that story was and how he or she was taught to tell the story. During the four years that glass artist Preston Singletary and I have been working on an exhibition with Tacoma’s Museum of Glass, he and I have continuously wrestled with questions at the intersection of oral history, the defining nature of art and the universal elements contained within this particular Raven story.

Culture of the Tlingit

The culture of the Tlingit, an Indigenous people from Alaska, British Columbia, and the Yukon, is multifaceted, a characteristic of Northwest Coast peoples with access to easily exploited rich resources. In Tlingit culture a heavy emphasis is placed upon family and kinship, and on a rich tradition of oratory. Wealth and economic power are important indicators of status, but so is generosity and proper behavior, all signs of “good breeding” and ties to aristocracy. Art and spirituality are incorporated in nearly all areas of Tlingit culture, with even everyday objects such as spoons and storage boxes decorated and imbued with spiritual power and historical associations.

Kushtaka

According to the folklore of the Tlingit people in what is now the northwestern USA, sailors who disappear at sea are said to be tricked and killed by the Kushtaka. These malicious creatures can switch between the form of a man and the shape of an otter. They can imitate the sound of a crying baby to lure innocent people and then tear them apart. However, the species is not inherently evil and there are many tales of Kushtaka saving people from a frozen death. Some stories tell of Kushtaka finding travelers who are freezing to death, and who are beyond help. Knowing that they cannot warm the human in time to save him, they turn him or her into a fellow Kushtaka, which allows the person in question to survive the horrible cold. This is a mixed boon: while the newly transformed Kushtaka is saved from death, they can no longer live among the humans.

Tlingit Myths

“No one knows just how the story of Raven really begins,” says Dekinā’k of the Box House people in Sitka, Alaska, “so each starts from the point where he does know it.” Could there be a more perfect way of introducing a creation myth than this? The importance of Raven to the stories of the Tlingit — who settled in southeastern Alaska around 10,000 years ago — would be hard to overestimate. Raven is a culture hero and trickster (like Prometheus), a shape-shifter (like Proteus), but he is also the creator of the earth. Back when there was no light in the world because a rich old man on the Nass River kept it all to himself, Raven “thought over all kinds of plans for getting this light into the world and finally he hit on a good one.” The rich old man who kept all the light to himself had a daughter, whom Raven impregnated by transforming himself into a small piece of dirt in a drop of water, which she swallowed.

The Tlingits didn’t wear long headdresses. Instead, both men and women sometimes wore basketry hats made of finely woven spruce root. The designs and patterns of these hats often displayed a person’s status and family connections. The Tlingits painted their faces with different colors and designs for different occasions, and often wore Indian tribal tattoos. Tlingit women often wore their hair in two long braids, while men usually left theirs long and loose. Like other Northwestern Indians, Tlingit men often wore mustaches and beards.

TLINGIT INDIAN FOLKLORE

Tlingit Myths and Texts: Online book about the mythology of the Tlingit tribe.

Tlingit Creation Story:

Raven: Tlingit myths about the life and deeds of Raven.

How Mosquitos Came To Be: Tlingit folktale about the origin of mosquitoes.

Tlingit Transformation Tales: Tlingit legends of Salmon Boy and the Bear Mother.

Katlian and the Iron People: Early 19th-century legend of a brave Tlingit chief’s encounters with the Russians.

Inviting The Bears: Tlingit legend about a man who threw a feast for the bear people.

The Star Shooter

The Arrow Chain: Tlingit stories about a boy who rescued his friend from the moon.

Raven and the Tides: Tlingit myth about the origin of the tides.

The Woman Who Married A Frog: Tlingit legend about a woman turned into a frog for her vanity.

Natsilane: Tlingit legend about the origin of the killer whale.

Beaver and Porcupine: Tlingit legend about a friendly rivalry between two animals.

Native Alaskan Stories: Eight Ahtna, Tlingit, and Eskimo legends presented by a Native Alaskan educational organization.

RAVEN TALES

Raven Tales are unique to Tlingit culture. Although the tales are associated with the Raven moiety, most are shared by any Tlingit regardless of clan affiliation and make up of the stories told to children. Raven Cycle stories are often shared anecdotally, the telling of one inspiring the telling of another. Many are humorous; some are serious, imparting Tlingit morality and ethics, and others belong to specific clans and may only be shared with permission. Some of the most popular are Pacific Northwest tribal creation myths. The Raven Cycle stories have 1 Raven characters, although most storytellers do not clearly distinguish them. One character is the creator, Raven, who is sometimes identical to the Owner of Daylight. The other is the childish Raven: selfish, sly, conniving, and hungry. Comparing several stories reveals logical inconsistencies between the two, which is usually explained by their setting in a mythical place and time in which the rules of the modern world did not apply.

Tlingit Myths

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A tiny fraction of whitetail hunters have taken a buck that scores over 170 typical or 195 nontypical, the minimums for entry into the Boone & Crockett record book. Many hunters feel like it’s just a stroke of luck to have a buck that size walk by, and many times it is. But that doesn’t explain why some hunters kill them with a shocking degree of regularity.

Several hunters have killed multiple B&C bucks over the years, which proves that they are probably doing things a little different than you and I are when you take to the whitetail woods. In talking to them, I have come up with a list if six things they’re doing that you’re probably not doing.

You’re Not Hunting Where They Live

This may seem obvious, but you have to hunt where there are. You don’t have to live there, but if you don’t have Booners where you live you must travel (or move.) Tim Young packed up and moved to Iowa and has shot two giants there and one on a roadtrip to Kentucky. Rod Owen, Adam Hays, Stan Potts and Ben Rising travel extensively to find and shoot big bucks in states other than their own.

“You have to find them first,” says Adam Hays, who has taken nine Booners including four over 200 inches. “Your best bet for finding a giant will be near sanctuaries where there is no or very limited hunting. These areas will be close to city limits, parks, industrial zones, wildlife refuges and even large tracts of land that allow no hunting. Hunting a specific animal will make you hunt harder and smarter also, just knowing he’s there!”

Rod Owen agrees.

“Killing a Booner isn’t the hardest part, the hardest part is finding one.”

Ben Rising has shot four Booners in the last two years. He says he often spends more time looking for a buck and getting access to hunt where the buck lives than actually hunting him.

You Don’t Understand How Fickle They Can Be

You can’t take chances with human intrusion, checking scouting cameras too often, or hunting in the wrong winds. To shoot a Booner you must do everything right, and get lucky, too. Patience is the key. Rod Owen tells about how he waited weeks for the perfect conditions to hunt a giant buck, but the wind switched so he literally got out of the stand and RAN all the way back to his truck.

“People go overboard trying to get intel on these big bucks and end up hurting themselves in the long run,” according to Ben Rising. They “dig too deep” he says, risking alerting the deer that he’s being hunted.

According to Adam Hays, patience is the #1 key.

“Sometimes the most difficult part of hunting a big buck is actually not hunting him at all,” he says. “having the patience and the discipline to wait until everything is perfect before diving in for the kill.”

You’re Not Willing To Do Whatever It Takes

You are spending your time watching Monday Night Football, you’re hanging out with buddies, you’re fishing when the big buck killers are scouting. The hunters who shoot Booners make sacrifices, and they are consumed by the pursuit and learning everything they can about the deer and the land they inhabit. The drive to shoot giant deer is at a level far above the average deer hunter.

“There are hunters and there are killers,” says Rising. “The drive has to be far greater if you are going to consistently kill big ones.”

With his truck stuck in a snowdrift, Steve Niemerg waited out a blizzard in a farmer’s house for two days, then instead of going home when the blizzard quit, he went hunting and killed a giant Booner that very evening.

You’re Not Hunting During the Peak Times

There are a few specific short periods each year when most Booners are shot. Hays is a big believer in the moon’s position as an influence of big buck movement. Rising says that waiting for the right moment is key.

Hays also claims that a wind that’s good for the buck and bad for you can be the best time to hunt.

“For me, the Holy Grail of whitetail hunting is finding a big buck’s weak spot, somewhere along his travel pattern where you can get within bow range of him while he’s using the wind to his advantage”

When a peak time arrives, you must put the rest of your life on hold. You might be surprised to discover that most of these true giants were not shot during the rut. Most big buck killers agree that they prefer to kill Booners before the chaos of the rut arrives and the deer are in more predictable patterns.

You’re Not Passing On Big Bucks

Those 170 and 180 bucks were once 150 bucks. If you can’t pass up a 4-year-old 150, you will probably never shoot a 6-year-old 180. A friend in southern Iowa who owns a large farm told me he kicked a guy out of their hunting group because he wouldn’t pass up the 4-year-olds that most people would drool over.

“People like Adam [Hays] and I have learned not to smoke the tag on the first 4-year-old 160 that comes by,” says Rising. “We only have one tag in Ohio.”

That’s a tough hurdle for most hunters to get over. If you are happy with a 150-160 then so be it, but if you want to kill bucks approaching 200, you will have to let them walk.

You’re Taking Shortcuts

Most hunters rely too much on gimmicks and don’t go to the extremes necessary. You aren’t choosing your entry and exit routes wisely enough, and you aren’t using discipline to wait for perfect conditions. These big buck killers are scent control fanatics, but they don’t use that as an excuse to take shortcuts with the wind. Scent control is an honorable goal, but the belief that you can totally eliminate your scent and ignore good woodsmanship is a ticket to forkhorn land.

Hanging a treestand during the rain, letting those cameras sit for weeks and only checking them with the right wind, having the patience to wait until everything is right — these are the characteristics of a person who kills Booners. Hunting mature bucks is all about strategic moves at the right time in the right place. There are no shortcuts, you must make every move with precision.

By DR. DAVID COZZO

RTCAR PROJECT DIRECTOR

I once asked a fellow here in Cherokee why I did not see many hickory trees and he said, “You won’t see many above the road.”

His point was hickory trees make the best firewood and a good tree would be cut for winter’s fuel. It is also a very heavy wood, so hauling one down the hill is a lot more sensible than hauling one up hill. Hickory has tough, durable wood which had a wide range of uses, such as tool handles, chair parts, and basket handles. The inner bark of hickory is good for finishing basket rims, and weaving a chair seat from that same inner bark will last for generations. But this series is about wild foods, and with that in mind there is a great reason to encourage more hickory trees: the nuts.

Hickory nuts are a highly nutritious and tasty food. They contain nearly as much protein as chicken and are a great source of minerals, especially calcium, magnesium, phosphorous, and potassium. They are also a good source of folate (folic acid), one of the vitamins important to expectant mothers. Hickory nuts are high in fat, but it is really good fat. The bulk of the oil consists of monounsaturated fatty acids, the beneficial kind found in olive oil and avocadoes. Oils high in monounsaturated fatty acids tend to lower LDL cholesterol (the ‘bad’ cholesterol), prevent heart disease, and decrease insulin resistance, making hickory nuts a good food for diabetics. Even though they are high in fat, nuts are also considered great food for dieters. The dense nutrients and fiber tend to satisfy hunger longer, lessening the urge for a snack. But be careful you don’t overdo it or you will lose those good effects.

If you have ever cracked hickory nuts, you know how much work it can be. The shells are very tough and picking out the nut meats is time consuming. One study determined it would take around eight hours of work to get enough calories to meet one person’s daily needs. However, this is where native technology made the process more efficient. Hickory nuts were cracked and the largest part of the shell removed. The remaining nut meats and pieces of shell were placed in the corn mortar (kanona) and pounded into a paste. The resulting paste was rolled into a large ball that was placed in boiling water to make a soup broth (kanuchi). The shells that remained in the paste would separate from the paste and sink to the bottom of the pot. So how much more efficient was the mortaring process than cracking and picking out the nut meats? The same study mentioned above found that using the corn mortar provided from 12 to 35 times more energy (depending on the type of hickory nut) than just cracking and picking. Now that’s good technology! And the taste? I once had hickory nut milk made in a blender. It had a great flavor and it was like sipping the finest cream. I can only imagine how good that soup tasted.

New chicken owners are often quick to purchase heat lamps to keep their flock warm in the winter and to maintain warmth within the chick brooder. However, this heating method is not safe and there are MUCH better options available. Today we are going to discuss the best alternatives to heat lamps for chickens and other barnyard animals.

Choosing a Safe Heat Lamp Alternative

Heat lamps have been used for years to warm livestock during freezing temperatures. They are also used in brooders for young chicks. These lamps have contributed to hundreds upon hundreds of barn and house fires so I have sworn them off, but my animals still need to stay warm… so… what are my options?

What is the Purpose of a Heat Lamp

Before we discuss heat lamp alternatives, let’s talk about why livestock owners use heat lamps to begin with.

Heat Lamps in a Brooder

When baby chicks are purchased from a hatchery or if you hatch your own chicks, they don’t have a mother hen to sit under for warmth. Since they don’t have mama hen’s body heat and they can’t regulate their body temperature, there has to be an artificial heat source.

Day-old chicks need a temperature of 95 degrees F in the brooder. 2-week-old chicks need 90 degrees F and the temperature requirement continues to drop 5 degrees per week until they move out of the brooder.

Heat lamps are used to provide this heat for the chicks until they are ready to move outside.

Heat Lamps in the Coop

A heat lamp is also often used to warm a chicken coop during cold weather. This really isn’t necessary, but in some areas where the temperatures drop below freezing, the extra heat can be helpful.

Why You Shouldn’t Use Heat Lamps

Providing your animals with heat isn’t a bad thing, but using unsafe heating equipment is. There are a few reasons why you should avoid using heat lamps for your livestock so let’s jump into those.

1. They are a fire hazard

The number one reason to stay away from heat lamps is the high risk of fire. Heat lamp bulbs get very hot and the heat cannot be regulated. This heat is concentrated in one area and, if placed too close, can catch nearby materials on fire.

Traditional heat lamps are hung up with a metal clamp. These clamps are known to shift and release causing the lamp to fall. When a heat lamp falls, the heat is transferred directly to the surface that it falls on. If this surface is coop bedding, wood, or another combustible material then you almost certainly have a barn fire.

2. They shatter easily

Heat lamp bulbs are not shatterproof. This means that if a lamp falls, the bulb may shatter and spread glass shards all around the floor of the coop, barn, or brooder.

A hot bulb can also shatter if practically anything touches it while it is hot. Imagine your animals splashing a bit of water or a loose feather flying around… once that water or the feather hits the bulb, bam! You have glass everywhere and potentially a fire.

Even if the fallen heat lamp doesn’t catch anything on fire, the broken glass would still be a huge safety concern.

3. They don’t distribute heat evenly

The heat from a heat lamp does not distribute evenly… it concentrates in the center. This poses a fire risk and it can make it difficult for the chicks or other animals to find a spot with a comfortable temperature. Since heat lamps warm up the entire space, chicks (and other animals) have a difficult time if they get overheated.

4. They produce disruptive light

Heat lamps emit a bright light that animals can’t get away from. This light can disrupt their natural sleep patterns as well as their hormone production. If you are using a heat lamp for laying age birds, this additional light can cause them to continue to lay eggs even when their bodies want to rest.

5. Chickens can keep themselves warm

Adult birds don’t really need supplemental heat in the winter. As long as you provide a healthy environment with proper ventilation and a wind break, their feathers keep them warm. This is the same for most farm animals.

If you do need artificial heat for your animals, check out the safe heat lamp alternatives listed below.

6 Safe Alternatives to Heat Lamps for Chickens

Heat lamps are one of many options for keeping your animals warm. Let’s dig into safe alternative heat sources for your homestead.

1. Heat Plates

This is my go-to choice for a heat lamp alternative. Heating Plates serve the same purpose as heat lamps without the high risk of fire. There are horizontal heat plates that are made to be used with young chicks and there are vertical (stand-up) heat plates that can be used with older birds.

Horizontal heat plates provide heat to chicks using much less electricity than a heat lamp. The chicks gather under the plate just as they would gather under a mother hen. You can adjust the height of the plate easily as the birds grow.

A vertical heat plate can be used for ducklings and older birds as well as some other livestock. This is a plate that heats up to warm animals that are standing or laying down near it. Some plates switch from horizontal to vertical so you can use them throughout the lifetime of your chickens.

Heat plates allow the birds to choose if they want to be in the heated area or if they want to move to a cooler spot. In fact, these plates don’t even warm the air. They will only warm a solid object (like a chick) that passes through the radiant heat emitted from the plate. This is important because different chicks may be comfortable at different temperatures.

The surface of a heat plate doesn’t get hot, either. When you touch it, it should feel warm, but it won’t burn you or your animals.

Heat lamps put out continual light that can disrupt the animal’s natural sleep cycles, but heat plates produce no light so sleep patterns are undisturbed.

I use an Ecoglow brooder for young chicks and this heating plate for ducklings and older birds.

Advantages:

• Less Electricity
• Very Low Fire Risk
• No Shatter Risk
• Mimics Mother Hen
• Radiant Heat
• Low Surface Heat
• No Artificial Light
• Height Adjustable

2. Heat Pads

Electric heating pads are used as a heat lamp alternative for small animals (chicks, piglets, etc.), but they have to be protected from water. They can be placed under bedding, on the wall, or under a towel.

You can also make a faux heat plate by turning a small metal basket upside down and placing a heating pad on top. If you choose to use a heating pad, try to find one with a built-in thermostat.

Advantages:

• Lower Electricity Usage
• No Artificial Light
• Low Burn Risk
• No Shatter Risk

3. Hot Water Bottles

Bottles with hot water can be placed in with the animals that you are trying to warm. These bottles will need to be replaced frequently, but they can offer warmth temporarily. This is a safer alternative to a heat lamp that works well in an off-grid situation with no electricity, but it does require more labor on your part.

If you choose this method of heating, be sure to insulate the bottles with a rag or dish towel to keep the animals from burning themselves.

This won’t work for very young chicks that need high ambient temperatures (80-95 degrees F).

Advantages:

• No Electricity Usage
• No Fire Risk
• No Shatter Risk

4. Ceramic Heat Emitter

Ceramic heat emitters are used in a similar fashion as heat lamps, but they provide heat without emitting light. No artificial light means that the animals’ natural sleep patterns are undisturbed. Since there is no glass bulb, they do not pose a shatter risk and the fire risk is much lower (but still present).

The surface temperature of the emitter can get very hot which can burn your animals if they touch it.

Advantages:

• Less Electricity
• Low Fire Risk
• Low Shatter Risk
• Radiant Heat Source
• No Artificial Light

5. Deep Litter Method

During the winter, you can increase the heat inside your coop or shelter by layering new bedding down on top of old bedding. Piling the bedding up like this is called the deep litter method. This method will increase the temperature inside the shelter for your animals without a safety risk.

Advantages:

• No Electricity Usage
• Increase Ambient Heat Naturally
• No Fire Risk
• No Shatter Risk
• No Artificial Light

6. Natural Warming

The best heat lamp alternative is no supplemental heat at all (except when it comes to baby chicks). Most animals are just fine in the winter without any artificial heat. Just be sure to provide your livestock with a shelter that has a windbreak and proper ventilation. This will keep them dry and out of the wind.

Advantages:

• No Electricity Needed
• Increase Ambient Heat Naturally
• No Fire Risk
• No Shatter Risk

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