Cane pole fishing might seem primitive compared to other types of rod fishing, but you’ll be pleasantly surprised by how fun and exciting it is, even if it is reel-free. But how do you get started on this fishing method that dates back generations?

We’ll walk you through everything you need to know about cane pole fishing, including how to make one!

What Is a Cane Pole?

Before buying your supplies for a DIY cane pole for fishing, you need to know what a cane pole is. Don’t worry, though. It is not as complex as you think it is.

A cane pole is a long stick that usually has a 1″-1-1/2″ butt diameter and is between 8-foot-20-foot in length. Some are made from bamboo, while others are graphite or fiberglass. Unlike modern fishing rods, a cane pole doesn’t have a reel, drag system, and line guide. As a matter of fact, you will be using a line as long as the pole itself, if not a tad longer. The hook is at the end of the line, wherein you can use live or artificial baits.

What Are the Different Types of Cane Poles?

Bamboo fishing rods and poles are the most popular. However, there are other types of cane poles that you can use.

Telescopic Cane Poles

Telescopic poles are made from graphite or fiberglass instead of treated bamboo. This choice of material makes them more lightweight. Since they are collapsible, often shrinking half of their length, they are more compact for camping trips and air travel.

For convenience, many fiberglass telescopic poles also have add-ons like a metal eye tip and line keeper. Length can also vary too, ranging from 8-foot to 20-foot.

Calcutta Poles

Calcutta cane poles are made from solid bamboo, specifically the Calcutta Bamboo (Dendrocalamus Strictus) species. They are highly prized in the fishing community because of their strength and flexibility, which many argue is 100% better than fiberglass. A high-quality Calcutta Bamboo pole is also resistant to rot from saltwater.

These poles are available in various lengths, although most are between four and twenty-five feet long.

Pro Tip: The longevity of bamboo poles is determined by how well they are cared for.

Jigger Poles

Jigger poles are typically 15 to 20 feet long and can also be telescopic. They’re adaptable and great for fishing in places where traditional casting is tricky. Jigger poles can be bamboo, fiberglass, or graphite, among other materials. They’re strung with a short leader attached to the pole’s end and a plastic or wooden plug at the other end.

How to Rig a Cane Pole?

Rigging a cane pole is easier because there is no reel to deal with. However, it’s best first to secure your line lower down the pole’s body. This way, if the tip breaks under pressure, you won’t lose your line or fish.

Rigging a Bamboo Cane Pole

1. Tie a piece of dacron or monofilament to the center of your pole, just below a notch.
2. Twist the line to the tip of your bamboo pole by rotating the pole.
3. Do a half hitch and secure the line in the slit you made in the tip when you get to the top.
4. Make sure you have enough monofilament to reach the pole’s handle.
5. At the end of the line, add a swivel or a hook. If you want to adjust the depth of the hook, add a bobber and any split shot you want.
6. You can now put your bait to the test.

Rigging a Telescopic Cane Pole

Rigging a telescopic pole is as easy as stringing a bamboo rod. As a matter of fact, the procedure is nearly identical, except that there is a decreased danger of the tip breaking under stress.

How to Fish With a Cane Pole

Cane pole fishing is pretty simple, but since it doesn’t have any reel and your line is limited, it can be challenging at first. Here’s how you can master cane pole fishing.

1. Lower your line into the water by gradually dipping the rod below and slowly raising it.
2. Avoid moving it around too quickly or forcefully.
3. Once you’ve hooked a fish, raise the pole above your head. This will bring the fish closer to the banks or boak.
4. Then grab the fish, either by hand or net and remove the hook.

Cane Pole Fishing Techniques and Tips

You can use cane fishing poles to catch small to medium-sized fish, including bluegills, crappies, and catfish. If you target a larger fish like a Northern Pike, we suggest using a conventional fishing rod.

• Bass: If you want to catch bass, make sure you use a bait that can function in cover. The bait should also look as natural as possible to the bass.
• Trout: Use a tiny fly as bait and travel upstream to the stream’s or pool’s mouth. This approach entails carefully dangling the fly 2 or 3 inches over the water’s surface and occasionally touching it, just like a natural fly would.

• Bluegill & Crappie: While crappie and bluegill are generally easy to catch, a cane fishing pole allows you to get your bait into hard-to-reach areas near dense cover.

• Catfish: Use a slightly heavier line and anchor your line closer to the base of the pole because the weight of this fish can put a strain on your pole and potentially cause it to crack.

How to Make a Cane Fishing Pole?

You don’t need a sophisticated rod to catch fish at your nearby lake. The following is a step-by-step guide to making your cane fishing pole:

1. Find a 10-foot to 20-foot long piece of bamboo. Choose one that is straight as much as possible.
2. Cut the bamboo stalk below the knuckle closest to the ground, near the root.
3. Remove any attached leaves, but be careful not to cut into the stalk itself.
4. Cut the tip of the stalk just above the last knuckle.
5. Allow the stalk to cure for a few weeks by hanging it in a dry location until it turns a solid tan hue. This ensures that the bamboo has dried thoroughly and will endure as long as feasible.
6. Sand the base and the rest of the pole.
7. Apply a coat or two of wood lacquer.
8. Set up your fishing cane and get started.

Cane Pole Fishing FAQ

What Are the Best Baits for Cane Poles?

When using a cane rod or pole to catch fish, the most common species are bluegill and tiny catfish. When going after catfish, you’ll use a variety of baits, including earthworms, crickets, mealworms, and a minnow-shaped plug that floats.

How Long Should a Cane Pole Line Be

The rope’s length should be enough to extend from the pole’s tip to the bottom. This ensures that even if the pole’s very thin tip broke, you could still land a bigger fish.

How to Cure a Cane Pole for Fishing?

You can cure a cane pole for fishing by laying the bamboo on a flat surface. It can take several weeks to months before it completely cures. You will know that the pole is cured if its color changes from green to brown. Never put bamboo poles under direct sunlight because they will crack.

Back to Basics

Cane pole fishing offers you the opportunity to go back to the basics of fishing! It may seem primitive and outdated, but the joy of catching a fish without using any modern fishing gear is exhilarating! Plus, it is a terrific method to learn to fish without spending a lot of money.

I’ve been fly fishing in southern Virginia for more than 15 years and ever since I first started trolling with my dad from our small 50hp boat when I was 12, I’ve fished with a fish finder.

Picking out the best fish finder for small boats will not only help you find fish more effectively from smaller vessels but also locate and save key areas where fish could be hanging out in the future.

So, it will help you catch fish now, and you can also mark key spots on the river or lake. That way you can always come back and try those spots.

Quick Answer: Best Fish Finders For Small Boats

• 1. Humminbird Helix 5 Series
• 2. Humminbird Helix 7
• 3. Lowrance Hook 2 GPS
• 4. Joywee Phiradar
• 5. Lucky Portable Fish Finder

If you’re looking to find fish and locate habitat, then check out the article below. I’m going to go over some of the best small boat fish finders.

We also have a “Best Fish Finders Overall” article if you’re looking for all types of fish finders.

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What is a Fish Finder?

A fish finder is able to tell you several pieces of information that will be critical for helping you find and catch fish. It’s possible to fish without one, but it can make a world of difference.

Fish finders can tell you the depth of the water and the temperature, along with where the structure, bait fish, and game fish you’re after are. Plus, some different models also have GPS.

Types of Fish Finders

There are several different types of fish finders. Each has its own pros and cons, so you should do careful research before you purchase one, as it may not work well for your style.

So, below I’ll go over a few different kinds to help you figure out which one will work best for you. Check them out and then see which one you can best utilize.

Mountable

These are great because they come with a bracket that’s fixed onto the boat. However, the actual unit can be taken on and off. So, the next morning, it can easily be mounted back on.

This is great for travel or if you have your boat parked outside. You can now take off your electronics and keep them safe inside your house or your truck.

Fixed

If you have a boat that you know will be safe and secure, then a fixed fish finder will be fine. These are great because it’s just one less thing you have to worry about taking on and off the boat at the end of the day.

These are also great if you’ll be fishing in choppy conditions. Since it’s fixed onto the boat, it has a low likelihood of falling off from waves crashing and bouncing off the boat.

Portable

Portable fish finders are great for when you have a smaller boat or a kayak. These can be easily installed before getting to the lake, or right at the water’s edge.

The portability factor makes it easy to transfer to and from your boat and reduces weight. This is great when you’re fishing from a kayak or float tube that may have a weight limit.

Handheld

These are similar to portable fish finders. They can be very easy to travel with and can also be lighter, making them great for use on smaller boats that have a weight limit.

Typically, these aren’t as nice as some of the bigger units that you mount. However, I think you’ll find that these will capture all the information you need and help you catch more fish.

Castable

These are great for shore anglers. Since you’re not actually in the water, you can cast out the transmitter and see the depth, water temperature, and even if there are any fish below the transmitter.

You can also use this when fishing out on boats too. They’re typically not as efficient as some of the handheld models out there, but are a great option for a cheaper model.

When to Use a Fish Finder

You can use a fish finder whenever you want to. Since you can now utilize castable fish finders, anyone can go out to their favorite water and have some sort of idea of what the bottom of the lake looks like.

The only time you may not need one is when you’re floating a shallow or clear river. Typically the water depth will change rapidly, and the only thing you may need to know is the water temperature.

Do You Really Need a Fish Finder?

If you want to go fishing, then you don’t actually need a fish finder. You can find success without one by looking for lay downs and other structure that your naked eye is able to find.

However, it will make a world of difference if you use a fish finder. It can help you locate bait fish, humps, drop-offs, sunken structure, and even schools of game fish.

5 Best Fish Finders for Small Boats

Below, I’ll go over five different products. These are the best fish finders for smaller boats. Kayaks, jon boats, paddleboards, and all other small vessels will be able to utilize the products below.

Check them out and see which one will work the best for your fishing style. Each has its own pros and cons, so take a close look and figure out which one will be the best for you.

1. Humminbird Helix 5 Series

• Pros: Has sonar and comes with a transducer, great value
• Cons: Smaller screen, not as bright, older model

The Humminbird Helix 5 is a great overall fish finder. It can be mounted onto smaller boats and even comes with its own transducer. Setting it up is a breeze.

It has side imaging, down imaging, speed, and GPS. It comes with sonar, water temperature, and a depth indicator, meaning this isn’t just a barebones unit. But, it has everything you need to locate fish.

It comes in at a solid price point, so a beginner angler can purchase this and learn how to use a fish finder properly without having to spend too much on a unit.

Product Specifications

• 5 inch color display
• Dual beam sonar
• 4000 watts power output
• Comes with a transducer
• Broadband CHIRP
• Easy use and set up

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2. Humminbird Helix 7

• Pros: GPS and down imaging
• Cons: No SD card with loaded maps

If you’re looking to take the next step in purchasing a fish finder, then the Humminbird Helix 7 is a great option. It won’t break the bank but it has a solid price point, especially considering what it can do.

With down imaging, this unit can tell you exactly what’s beneath your boat. It’s ideal for fishing in deep lakes, rivers, or in salt water. You can easily tell the water temperature and the depth as well.

The device can give you coverage up to 125 feet, which is more than enough for most anglers out there. If you plan on taking this into really deep salt water, then maybe another unit would be better.

Product Specifications

• 7 inch screen
• Mega down imaging
• 125 feet depth
• Low Q CHIRP transducer
• Dual spectrum CHIRP
• Two display modes
• Includes transducer and mounting hardware

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3. Lowrance Hook 2 GPS

• Pros: Comes equipped with GPS and wide sonar coverage
• Cons: Can have issues with consistent depth readings

If you’re looking for a unit that has GPS capabilities, then this is the one for you. A GPS unit on your boat is great for when you’re fishing big water that may be new to you. This allows you to traverse the lake without getting lost.

The Lowrance Hook 2 is also very easy to use, which makes it ideal for someone who may be new to the world of fish finders. You can easily mount it, set it up, and learn to use it out on the water.

It gives you traditional CHIRP sonar, so you can tell if there is any structure below you. It also tells you the water temperature, depth, and if there are any schools of fish beneath your boat.

Product Specifications

• Auto tuning sonar
• Easy to use menu options
• Wide sonar coverage
• Easy setup
• Mount on transom, hull, or trolling motor
• GPS
• Transducer included in the package

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4. Joywee Phiradar

• Pros: Small and compact size, accurate depth readings
• Cons: Can be a pain to install and set up to a battery

If you’re looking for a great fish finder that can be used on a kayak, then this is the one for you. The Joywee Phiradar is small enough that it won’t add too much extra weight, which is important when kayak fishing.

Installation can be a bit of a pain, but once you have it set up and ready to go, then it’s fine. You can easily paddle around the lake on your kayak utilizing the great work this fish finder does.

It’s extremely accurate and outworks the price, making this another great deal. It’s perfect for someone who doesn’t want to drop a crazy amount of money on a fish finder.

Product Specifications

• 3.5 inch screen
• Depth reading from 1.8 to 900 feet
• Auto zoom tracking
• Bottom contour and temp readings
• Multi-language settings
• Big or small fish indicator
• Dual beam sonar frequency

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5. Lucky Portable Fish Finder

• Pros: Small and easy to use and transport
• Cons: Slow readings and no bells and whistles

For the price, the Lucky Portable Fish Finder is pretty incredible. Don’t expect too much, though, as this is a very barebones fish finder. It will tell you depth, water temp, and fish location. It seems the fish location can be slow sometimes, though.

This can be taken out in just about any type of watercraft you can think of and be utilized. So, if you don’t want to pull the trigger on something crazy expensive, then this is the one for you.

Ideally, this is best suited for a kayak. Since it’s so small and lightweight, it won’t take up much extra space in the boat. It’ll deliver all the essential information you need to catch more fish, but nothing more.

Product Specifications

• Portable
• Streamlined shape
• Real-time water depth
• Background light
• Fish detector
• 328 feet max depth
• Extremely easy to use

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Features of a Good Fish Finder (Particularly Those For Smaller Vessels)

Below, I’ll go over some of the best features of fish finder for small boats. Each has its own pros and cons, so think about what you want and then apply it to the list below.

GPS Integrated

Having GPS on your fish finder can be the ultimate game changer. Most of these have waypoint settings that will allow you to plot exactly where fish have been hanging out or where you think they will be.

It’s also great if you plan on fishing large waterways for the first time. This way you can easily plot your way back to shore or the boat ramp without getting lost.

Cone Angle

The cone angle is the sound generated by the transducer that works its way towards the bottom. The sound wave looks similar to an upside-down ice cream cone.

Some fish finders have a wider cone than others. The wider cone will allow you to see more of the bottom, thus allowing you to see more drop-offs, bait fish, or anything you may want to key in on.

Side Scan vs Down Scan

Side-scan gives you an image of what is on the sides of your boat. It shoots out an image a number of feet and allows you to see a lay down or brush pile that may be off to the side.

Down scan allows you to see directly beneath your boat. This is ideal when fishing in deep water, such as lakes or oceans. It’s especially effective if you plan on jigging beneath your boat.

Mounting Type

The mount type for your fish finder should depend on what type of boat you want to use. A small vessel would do well with one that can be removed or something that’s handheld.

Larger ships do well with fixed units. These are usually locked up and can’t be taken off without power tools and either lifting the boat out of the water or getting in the water to take them off.

Vessel Specific Fish Finders

If you have a small boat, then something that can be easily taken on and off would be great. Also, something small and lightweight would be best because smaller boats can’t handle as much weight.

Larger boats can handle much more weight, so 12 inch screens and large electronics won’t weigh down the boat. These are best when you’re using a larger ship.

Transducer

A good fish finder will have an even better transducer. The transducer will send and receive signals, and it acts as the heart of the echo sound system.

It changes electrical pulses into sound waves and then back again, so that the machine can accurately read what’s beneath the boat.

Display

The display of the fish finder depends on the size as well as the backlight. Some are made to be used in all different lighting conditions, from midnight darkness to the brightest of conditions in the middle of the day.

The size of the screen is also important. The bigger it is, the easier you’ll be able to spot different fish attractors or baitfish on the screen. You’ll need to find a screen that’s large enough to see but not too big to weigh down a smaller boat.

Frequency

Ultrasound frequency usually ranges from 15 kHz to 200 kHz. The majority of fish finders out there usually only have a range of 50 kHz to 200 kHz.

Some expensive or commercial fishing vessels may have a fish finder with a frequency that’s much higher. This isn’t needed for a recreational angler.

Some of My Favorite Fish Finder Brands

If you’d like to know who makes great small boat fish finders, then check out the section below. I cover several different brands that should meet your needs.

Take a close look at each brand before purchase, though. Each has its own pros and cons, and it could hinder your style of fishing if you purchase the incorrect one.

Humminbird

If you want to make the most out of your time on the water, then it’s hard to go wrong with a Humminbird. They have all of the high tech features needed to enhance your fishing experience.

It doesn’t matter what type of water or what type of boat you have. Humminbird makes a fish finder that will help you catch more fish.

Lowrance

One of the best-known names in the world of fishing electronics, Lowrance is regarded as one of the best companies out there in terms of producing high-quality fish finders.

It doesn’t matter the size, color, frequency, or cone angle. Lowrance creates a fish finder that will work perfectly for the style of fishing you plan on doing.

Joywee

Joywee is not a household name the way that Lowrance or Humminbird is. However, they make great fish finders that can be utilized by both professionals and amateurs.

Look to them if you want something that works well but won’t cost an arm and a leg to get. These are great for smaller vessels.

Lucky Fish Finders

Lucky fish finders are in the same vein as Joywee. This a newer company that makes great fish finders. They may not be well known, but they sure do work well.

Most of these are smaller and cheaper, making them ideal for anglers who may be new to the fish finder game and don’t want to spend too much. These are ideal for the angler who uses kayaks, canoes, or float tubes.

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Conclusion

Fish finders are a great way to get you out on the water and improve your chances of catching fish. There’s only so much your naked eye can see, and there’s so much beneath the surface.

The items above are a great start, but feel free to use them as a jumping-off point to help find the right fish finder for you and your way of fishing.

If you want more success on the water, then you need to be using a fish finder. It doesn’t matter by who or how big. As long as you have one, then you’ll catch more fish than you did before.

It’s a beautiful thing when testosterone kicks in and gnarly old mulie bucks quit thinking. Nocturnal monarchs strut around in broad daylight, thicket-loving old hermit bucks stand silhouetted on open ridges, and alpine-country cliff dwellers descend to mingle with does in less protected, more accessible habitat.

In most regions, you’re not allowed to hunt mule deer during the rut. All you can do is take a detour through areas high in doe numbers on your way to work, break out the spotting scope, drool all over the front of your business suit, and take some shaky iPhone photos through the ocular lens.

But if you really want to hunt bucks during the mule deer rut badly enough, there are ways. No, I’m not talking about poaching.

Several great mule deer states offer some sort of a late-fall rut hunt. Usually, it’s in a limited-draw area, and you’ll put in for half your life in the hopes of pulling a tag. However, there are exceptions. Frequently, those exceptions involve archery equipment and lots of cold weather, so you’ll have to be both adaptable and tough to capitalize on them.

Take my home state of Utah. Ask any local hunter if Utah offers a general-season mule deer rut hunt, and he’ll laugh ruefully in your face. Utah, like many Western states, manages for hunter opportunity, not hunter success.

But after a minute a light will go off in some cobwebbed recess of that local’s brain, and he’ll say something like, “Actually, if you’re willing to work your way through a labyrinth of suburban neighborhoods, park near city water tanks or whatnot, and climb near-vertical slopes into the Wasatch Mountains, there’s an extended-season archery unit€¦.” Hunters may pursue big old bucks until mid to late December on the west-facing, extremely steep slopes above Salt Lake City.

These deer are never rifle hunted. Some years ago, a law prohibiting hunting with rifles was created due to fears of rifle bullets flying out over the city. That’s not to say that the local deer are dumb — far from it.

They get hunted from mid August to the end of the year. But it’s a legitimate rut hunt, and you’ll see big bucks working does among the oak brush clinging to the steep slopes. Whether you’re man enough to climb and put a stalk on one is up to you. I’ve put many a stalk on mature bucks on those slopes and blown all but one.

A buddy and I found a big buck near the bottom of the far slope in a steep, very rugged knife-bottomed draw, tending a doe in estrus. After racking our brains for a way to put a successful stalk on him, it dawned on us that if spooked uphill, the ledges and cliffs above him would funnel him through a 20- yard-wide gap in the rocks atop the far ridge. There was simply no other way for him to go — assuming he went up instead of fishhooking around.

It was worth a try. I won the toss and spent the next three-and-a-half hours in knee-deep snow, dropping clear down to the valley floor to get across the draw without spooking the buck, then climbing the gut-wrenching far ridge. Finally in position, I thumbnail-scraped the eighth-inch layer of ice off my bowstring and arrow and waved at my partner. He piled off the far slope in a cloud of powder, going right at the buck.

Just about the time I could no longer stand to wait, antler tips showed suddenly above the bulge of the slope below me. With my heart doing jumping jacks on my stomach, I focused on a spot at the front edge of his shoulder, planning to smoothly draw my recurve and shoot as he passed only 18 yards away, leading the region I wanted to hit by just a few inches.

Suddenly in the perfect spot, tongue hanging out from climbing the slope, the buck stopped. In disbelief, I drew to anchor, rushed the shot, and missed right over the 170-class buck’s back. I still haven’t forgiven myself.

Destination Testosterone: Where To Hunt

While many hunters believe that the mule deer rut occurs at the same time as the whitetail rut (and in some regions it’s true), most of the violent rutting action I’ve observed occurred after the first of December.

Finding a place to hunt can be complex. Studying the regs in the state you want to hunt is a great start, but a call to a wildlife biologist can prove a worthwhile shortcut. Biologists can point you to areas with high deer populations, tell you about migration patterns you’d otherwise be unaware of, and suggest routes to access remote public land.

Sometimes the land where rut hunts occur is private, and knocking on doors to ask permission to hunt can prove as fruitless as a celebrity marriage. Fish & Game agencies can often help by referring you to cooperating landowners that participate in open-access programs. High-tech GPS mapping programs that display blocks of public within private lands can also be very useful.

Killer Methods: How To Hunt

Once you’ve found a region and a legal spot to hunt and obtained a tag, get your boots on the ground and find out where the does congregate during late November and December. Rutting bucks are as predictable — and as unpredictable — as teenagers with high hormonal levels, and usually the old bucks can be found patrolling doe populations.

I once read that a good way to tag a monster buck during the rut was to find the biggest group of does in the area and watch that group — sniper style — day after day. Sooner or later, a gnarly old buck will swagger out of the nearest thicket and start sticking his nose under the tails of those fine-looking does.

A less boring method is to roam and glass doe groups from a healthy distance. Sooner or later, you’ll find a big buck as he cruises through during the mule deer rut. Be warned: With a bunch of buck-ravished, spooky doe eyes on the lookout, stalking can be tougher than sweet-talking a pretty girl at a church quilting bee.

If there’s good fresh snow, tracking can be effective. Take a skillful buddy along, put him on a promising big track, and veer out to the side, climbing high points in the terrain and watching out in front of your partner as he works the track. You might just catch a big old buck sneaking through the thickets ahead of him.

If you’ve got a long season, where you can relax and have a little fun, try rattling in edge cover near high doe populations. While I’ve never personally rattled in a mulie buck, my brother has — big ones.

If you catch an amorous but lonely buck just right, he might come stomping in snorting steam, blood and fire in his eyes. More probably, the big bucks in the area will just raise their heads at the sound and look long and hard — which can be just the trick you need to get a clear look at a buck to evaluate his rack.

In the end, though, glassing is where it’s at. Cover a lot of country during high movement periods at dusk and dawn and carry powerful binoculars that suck up light, along with the very best spotting scope you can afford. When you find the buck you want, move on him with everything you’ve got because you may never see him again.

Hunting mule deer in the rut is a far cry from hunting rut-crazed whitetails. They don’t vocalize much, they aren’t really callable, and they don’t hold predictable rutting territories. On the other hand, they do become visible.

A highly visible monster mule deer is the most contagious carrier of buck fever in the world, and if you decide that hunting rutting mulies is on your bucket list, you’ll contract it sooner or later.

Be warned: There is no cure.

I recently completed a project that I began last Fall.

On nature walks in the park in the Fall, I am frequently asked about the hickory nuts we find: “Are they edible”? The short answer is yes. The question, however, deserves a fuller response.

To say that something is “edible” is, in a sense, simply to say that it is safe to eat; it is not poisonous and will not make the eater sick. Hickory nuts are definitely edible in this sense. This is only the first consideration, though, for someone who is actually considering eating something found in its natural state. Not everything edible is something that one wants to consume. Are the hickory nuts of Eliza Howell Park ones that we are likely to find pleasant to eat?

To the best of my knowledge, there are three species of hickory nut trees in Eliza Howell: Bitternut Hickory, Shagbark Hickory, Pignut Hickory. The trees are not numerous, but in some years all three produce bumper crops and the nuts are easy to find on the ground. Bitternut appears to be the most common of the hickories in the park.

This picture depicts each Eliza Howell hickory species in the progression from green nut to ripening nut to the nut after the outer hull is removed.

The first clue to tastiness might be what our ancestors thought when the species got their common names. “Bitter” clearly suggests unpleasant. And identifying something as “pig feed” is not normally a recommendation for human consumption. In the past, Pignut Hickory nuts were commonly part of the annual diet of hogs.

The other species, on the other hand, was identified by its bark: the trunk has large strips of peeling bark. Calling attention to the bark helps to provide identification if one wants to locate a tree for purposes of collecting nuts. Shagbark is a hickory that nearly everyone agrees is tasty as well as edible.

I have eaten Shagbark Hickory nuts many times. We collected them every Fall for Winter eating when I was young. Having no memory of ever eating Bitternut or Pignut, I browsed the reports and descriptions of others. There appears to be general agreement that Bitternut nuts are not tasty, but there is less agreement on Pignut. Most, but not all, describe it as unpleasant to eat.

I decided to do a taste test. I harvested a few nuts of each species in the Fall and this February I ate some of each.

The Shagbark was enjoyable, as remembered.

I found little difference between Bitternut and Pignut. My assessment of these two: On the one hand, if I were hungry, they would serve as an acceptable source of nutrition; on the other hand, I do not intend to bring them home to eat. I am perfectly pleased to let wildlife have them (and I do see from the evidence in the snow that squirrels have, in fact, been using them for Winter food this year).

There is an old Roman (Latin) saying: “De gustibus non est disputandum.” We should not dispute matters of taste. What one person likes another might not – and that does not make either wrong. My opinion on the taste of the different hickory nuts found in Eliza Howell Park is just one person’s opinion. But this coming Fall, when asked if the hickory nuts we step on are edible, I can at least speak as one who has tasted them.

Slowly stalking through stands of conifers and golden aspens, you stop and cup your hand to your ear. There it is again, the sound, unmistakable and piercing. After days of trekking, you’ve finally heard the roar of a bull elk, and you’ve got him pinpointed. That’s when the stalk begins across the ridge. This is what you’ve been waiting for all year.

For us, there’s almost nothing better in this world than hearing elk sounds echo throughout the mountains. No other animal in North America sounds quite like it. And the different cadences are extraordinary. For the elk hunter, it’s important to understand exactly what these vocalizations mean. For instance, you want to know if the sounds you’re hearing are from a bull or cow, if they’re alert or calm. This will also help you become a better caller, allowing you to draw the animals in close enough for a shot.

Bugle

Even non-hunters can recognize a bugle from a bull elk. It’s a multi-tone sound that begins low and transitions into what can only be described as a loud scream. Bulls bugle during the rut when they’re seeking a mate. The vocalization also serves as a warning to other bulls in the area as a sign of dominance. While you can’t judge the size of a bull based on his bugle, it can be used as a beacon to pinpoint his location. Use the Back Country Elk Decoy and a bugle call to draw him into range. When the rut is in full swing, he won’t be able to resist the prospect of fighting off another male to protect his harem.

Glunking

This is a sound made by a bull that you may also hear during the rut. A glunk is a muffled bass sound, in single tones, one after the other in quick succession. The bull uses this vocalization to communicate with groups of cows. So if you hear this, there’s a good chance there are cows nearby as well.

Chuckle

Bulls will produce a chuckle at the end of a bugle. It sounds like a series of short, loud grunts. However, he may chuckle without bugling. This is another vocalization that is meant to express dominance to males and attract females. Many bugle calls can produce a chuckle, and it’s a great way to add variation to your call sequences.

Bark

This call is used by elk to alert the herd of danger. The vocalization is a single, sharp sound.

Typically, if you hear a bark, the whole herd will quickly disappear because they’ve spotted or winded you. Barks are bad and a sound you want to avoid hearing.

Cow in Estrus

Cows will use this vocalization during the rut to signify she is ready to breed. It sounds like a whine, similar to a bugle but not as high-pitched or as long. This is a handy call to keep in your bag, as this can be used to locate a herd or stop a bull when you’re ready to shoot.

Calf

A calf will sound similar to a cow, although the tone will be much lower. Typically, their calls will be single sounds, similar to a squeak. Much like whitetail does, cow elk will respond to the bleating of a lost calf. If you can pique the curiosity of a few cows with a calf call, they’ll come into bow range. If you’re hunting bulls this can also be advantageous as he’ll often follow cows to ensure his harem doesn’t get separated.

Chirp

This call is made by cows and bulls, often when a large herd is together. They’re general noises elk make when near each other, feeding contently. If you hear these sounds, you can expect a herd close by.

When magnet fishing in Texas, you can find more than the occasional gun or knife. The state of Texas has over 7364 square miles of water area making. Needless to say, there are many different places where you can go magnet fishing. However, some spots are better than others, depending on your interests.

Is magnet fishing legal in Texas?

Yes, magnet fishing is legal in the state of Texas. There are no specific laws or regulations in place regarding the activity. However, as with any outdoor activity, there are some general rules that apply. For example, it is illegal to magnet fish on private property without the owner’s permission.

Of course, what is legal isn’t always ethical. It would not be the first time repeated, reckless or inconsiderate behavior resulted in federal regulation. Please have a look at our magnet fishing etiquette!

‍What are the best places to magnet fish in Texas?

There are many great locations for magnet fishing in Texas. Some of the best spots include lakes, rivers, and streams. In particular, areas with slow-moving water tend to be ideal, as objects are more likely to become caught on something underwater. Here are some of the most popular locations for magnet fishing:

Lake Houston

Located just outside of Houston, Lake Houston is a popular magnet fishing destination in Texas. With numerous lakeside parks and clean water, it is the perfect place for people to try out this fun activity.

Brazos River

Another great spot for magnet fishing in Texas is the Brazos River. This river flows through central Texas and offers many opportunities for magnet fishing enthusiasts to explore its waters.

Clear Creek

Clear Creek is another popular location for magnet fishing, especially among residents of Austin and the surrounding areas. This picturesque creek has long been a favorite of local anglers due to its clear waters and abundant wildlife. It is not the most bountiful magnet fishing location.

Lake Travis

Located near Austin, Lake Travis has become one of the most popular destinations for magnet fishing in recent years. Because it is a man-made lake that provides access to clean water and parks, it is the perfect place for people to try out this fun activity.

San Antonio River‍

If you want to try your hand at magnet fishing in San Antonio, then look no further than the San Antonio River. This river is a great place to find all sorts of lost items, including coins, jewelry, and even the occasional bicycle.

Sabine River

The Sabine River is one of the best places to go magnet fishing in Texas. This river is full of lost items that have been swept away by the current over the years. You never know what you might find when you go magnet fishing in this river.

The Houston Ship Channel

The Houston Ship Channel is known for being a great place to find old guns and knives.

Other places you could try:

• the canals near Lake Caroline
• Lake Texoma
• Red River
• any bridge over the Trinity River in Dallas
• Lake Worth
• Lake Ray Hubbard
• San Jacinto River
• Guadalupe River
• Neches River
• Old Sabine Bottom Bridge
• New Sabine Bottom Bridge
• Lake Conroe
• Cedar Creek Lake
• Richland Chambers Reservoir
• Lake Athens
• Falcon Lake

What can you find when magnet fishing in Texas?

You can find all sorts of lost items when you go magnet fishing in Texas. This includes coins, jewelry, and even the occasional bicycle.

Additional resources

• With the help of this guide, you’ll find the perfect magnet fishing spot near you!
• Here is a detailed map that conveniently shows all the different types of water bodies across the U.S.

Did you stumble upon other useful resources, locations, or maps for magnet fishing in Texas? Feel free to drop a comment down below!

Here’s what you need to know about the 280 Ackley Improved and how it stacks up against the 270 Winchester, 280 Remington, and the 7mm Remington Magnum.

Most hunters and shooters in North America are probably familiar with the venerable .270 Winchester and 7mm Remington Magnum cartridges. However, while those two rounds are very popular for a reason, they are far from the only high quality choices in that size range.

Indeed, the .280 Ackley Improved (280 AI) is one of the newest SAAMI standardized rifle cartridges on the block. The .280 AI was developed by modifying the case from the .280 Remington. Both of those cartridges are very capable performers, though neither is as well known or as widely used as the .270 Winchester or 7mm Remington Magnum.

What do the .280 Remington and .280 AI have to offer hunters, particularly compared to the .270 Winchester and 7mm Rem Mag? Why did the .280 Remington struggle to initially gain traction in the commercial shooting and hunting market? Can the .280 AI really live up to the claim made by some that it can do everything the 7mm Mag can do, but with less recoil?

In this article, I’m going to do a detailed comparison of the 270 vs 280 Remington vs 280 Ackley Improved vs 7mm Remington Magnum in an effort to answer the above questions and parse out the differences between those four cartridges so you can make an informed decision regarding which one will work best for you.

Before we get started, I have an administrative note:

Some of the links below are affiliate links. This means I will earn a small commission (at no extra cost to you) if you make a purchase. This helps support the blog and allows me to continue to create free content that’s useful to hunters like yourself. Thanks for your support.

270 vs 280 Remington vs 280 Ackley Improved vs 7mm Rem Mag: History

As is the case with many other cartridges developed in the United States, the story of the .270 Winchester, the .280 Remington, the .280 Ackley Improved, and the 7mm Remington Magnum starts with the .30-06 Springfield.

The US Army started looking for a new service rifle and cartridge after being on the receiving end of a deadly demonstration of the capabilities of the revolutionary new Mauser rifle and 7mm Mauser cartridge in the hands of Spanish troops in Cuba during 1898. They eventually chose the bolt action 1903 Springfield rifle chambered in the new .30-06 Springfield cartridge.

Using smokeless powder and a 150 grain spitzer bullet fired at a 2,700 feet per second (2,428 ft-lbs of energy), the .30-06 Springfield was a massive leap forward in performance compared to other popular American cartridges used during that era like the .45-70 Government.

For this reason, the .30-06 Springfield was an almost instant success in the civilian market.

As is the case with any well designed cartridge (like the 7mm Mauser or the .30-30 Winchester), wildcatters also quickly started modifying the .30-06 Springfield to accomplish a variety of different tasks. Some gun designers necked up the .30-06 to develop bigger cartridges like the 338-06 and the .35 Whelen.

Others opted to neck down the .30-06 case to use smaller diameter bullets (like the .25-06 Remington), which is what the folks at Winchester did when they modified the case to use .277″ instead of .308″ bullets. The result was the .270 Winchester cartridge, which they released in 1925 with the Winchester Model 54 rifle.

The original .270 Winchester load shot a 130 grain bullet at a velocity of 3,140 feet per second (2,846 ft-lbs of energy). This was an incredibly high velocity for the 1920s and was a tremendous speed improvement over the .30-06 Springfield, which was itself considered a very high velocity cartridge for the day.

If you’d like to learn how the .270 Winchester compares to its parent case in the .30-06, read the article below:

270 vs 30-06 Debate Settled Once And For All

While the .270 had a very fast muzzle velocity compared to other popular cartridges of the day, it was not an instant commercial success.

This was due to a number of reasons, one of which was the fact that the .270 Winchester fired unusual size bullets. Instead of using the much more commonly used .284″/7mm bullets like the 7mm Mauser (and many newer cartridges like the 7mm-08), for reasons that aren’t clear today, the .270 Winchester used .277″ bullets.

This very likely hampered adoption of the cartridge to a certain degree.

However, the .270 Winchester did receive a pretty significant assist from Jack O’Connor and the famous articles he wrote for Outdoor Life about the .270 over the years. Some were reluctant to adopt the cartridge, but many American hunters eventually came to appreciate the flat shooting characteristics of the round as well as the fact that it was so effective on thin skinned game. It didn’t take very long before the .270 Winchester was firmly entrenched as one of the most popular hunting cartridges used in the United States.

Remington made an attempt at knocking the .270 Winchester off its perch when they rolled out the .280 Remington cartridge in 1957.

Also developed by necking down a .30-06 case, the .280 Remington offered hunters a slight ballistic edge over the .270 Winchester and also utilized the more popular .284″ bullets. All things considered, the .280 Remington had a lot of potential and should have been a big success, but the company made a couple of major blunders when they rolled out the new cartridge.

First, they introduced the .280 Remington in their Model 740 autoloader. Later, they also offered it in their Model 742 autoloader and Model 760 slide action before finally offering it in the Model 721 and 725 bolt-action rifles. They eventually got around to offering it in their legendary Model 700 bolt-action, but dropped it after a couple of years before finally reintroducing it in the Model 700 in 1979.

During many of those critical early years, the cartridge was only available in the Model 742 autoloader. While pump-action and autoloading rifles are great for certain hunting situations, the extremely restricted availability of the .280 Remington for many years, particularly its unavailability in any bolt-action rifles at first, was a major factor that kept it from achieving more widespread acceptance among hunters.

The introduction of the massively successful 7mm Remington Magnum in 1962 also derailed any prospects of the .280 Remington catching on to any large degree with the general hunting public. As you’ll see in a minute though, Remington didn’t give up on the .280.

Remington made a massive splash in 1962 when they rolled out their new Remington Model 700 rifle along with the brand new 7mm Remington Magnum cartridge. Using a shortened .375 H&H Magnum case necked down to use a .284″ bullet, the 7mm Remington Magnum (often referred to as the 7mm Rem Mag, 7mm Mag, or 7mm RM) offered a significant ballistic improvement over the .30-06 Springfield, the .270 Winchester, the .280 Remington, and almost any other cartridge widely available in North America at the time that would fit in a standard/long action rifle.

Since it uses a larger diameter case derived from the .375 H&H, the 7mm Magnum has a very large powder capacity and is capable of shooting the same weight bullet faster than the .30-06. Additionally, those smaller diameter .284″ bullets used by the 7mm Rem Mag have a higher ballistic coefficient and more sectional density than .30 caliber bullets of the same weight used by the .30-06 Springfield.

For those reasons, most 7mm Remington Magnum loads have more energy remaining downrange, a flatter trajectory, and (all other things being equal) will penetrate better than .30-06 Springfield loads using the same weight bullets.

And to top it all off, while a few older cartridges like the .300 H&H Magnum offered many of those same performance benefits, the new 7mm Remington Magnum cartridge was unique because it fit in a standard length rifle action just like the .30-06 and similar cartridges like the .270, .280, etc.

With all that in mind, it’s easy to see why lots of hunters and shooters in North America quickly got behind the flat shooting and hard hitting 7mm Rem Mag.

It’s also easy to see why the 7mm Remington Magnum quickly pushed the .280 Remington even further out of the limelight at first. However, the management at Remington gave the .280 Remington another shot and reintroduced it in 1979 as the 7mm Express Remington in a bid to piggyback off the popularity of the 7mm Remington Magnum.

Though dimensionally identical to (and thus completely interchangeable with) the original .280 Remington, Remington claimed the new 7mm Express loads had a tiny velocity advantage over the original .280 Remington factory loads when using the same weight bullet. As you can imagine though, the name change resulted in a lot of confusion between the 7mm Express and the 7mm Rem Mag, which are NOT interchangeable.

So, Remington renamed the cartridge AGAIN after a few years and went back to the .280 Remington, which is what it’s called today.

So, if it wasn’t bad enough that the management at Remington didn’t fully get behind the cartridge and offer it in a bolt-action rifle from the start, they also kept changing its name. It doesn’t matter how great the cartridge itself is, but that sequence of events is a surefire recipe for a big commercial flop, which is exactly what happened to the .280 Remington.

Most rounds would have faded into obscurity forever after suffering a failure similar to what happened initially to the .280 Remington. However, the fact that it’s still hanging around even after experiencing a bunch of marketing fumbles from corporate management is a testament to the inherent strengths of the .280 Remington.

In fact, though nowhere near as commonly used as the .270 or the 7mm Mag, the .280 Remington is much more widely used today than it ever was.

Interestingly enough, the .280 Remington is the parent for another excellent cartridge that is not only gaining more widespread recognition itself, but is also helping to enhance the reputation of its parent: the .280 Ackley Improved.

Parker Otto Ackley, better known as P.O. Ackley, was very well known for developing wildcat cartridges in the latter half of the 20th Century. Among other things, he’s particularly well known for his series of “Ackley Improved” cartridges. Ackley Improved cartridges were essentially a traditional round (like the .270, .30-30, .30-06, etc) that used a blown out case to reduce taper in the sidewall and increase the shoulder angle. The result was a new case with slightly more (usually around 4-5%) powder capacity.

Since they can hold more powder, Ackley Improved cartridges are capable of higher velocities than their parent cartridge when loaded with the same weight bullet. However, the reduced body taper and sharper shoulder can sometimes cause feeding issues with certain rifles.

The actual performance difference between Ackley Improved cartridges and their parents varies, with some realizing a much bigger jump in velocity than others. For example, when using the same weight bullet, .280 Ackley Improved factory ammunition typically shoots 50-150 (usually around 100 fps faster) than most .280 Remington factory ammo.

That might not seem like much, but the .280 Ackley Improved (also known as the 280 AI, 280 Remington Ackley Improved, or 280 Rem. Ackley Improved 40 degrees) hit something of a sweet spot between the .280 Remington and the 7mm Remington Magnum. Not only does the .280 AI offer a noticeable ballistic advantage over the .280 Remington, but it’s also capable of performance nearly on par with the 7mm Remington Magnum.

Additionally, since it has such an efficient design, the .280 AI doesn’t use as much powder as the 7mm Remington Magnum to achieve nearly the same level of performances. For this reason, the .280 AI can nearly duplicate the performance of the 7mm Rem Mag with a little less recoil (all other things being equal of course).

This is why the management at Nosler decided to standardize the .280 Ackley Improved and submit it to the Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturers’ Institute (SAAMI) for approval, which it received in 2008.

270 vs 280 Rem vs 280 AI vs 7mm Rem Mag: Cartridge Sizes

The unique roots of the 7mm Remington Magnum and the shared heritage of the .270 Winchester, .280 Remington, and the .280 Ackley Improved are all obvious in the photo below.

First, the .270, .280, and .280 AI are all very similar in appearance: they have the same rim diameter as well as very similar case lengths. However, there are some important differences that set them apart from each other.

As you can see, the .280 Remington and .270 Winchester are identical up to the shoulder and have the same 17.5 degree shoulder angle, but the shoulder of the .280 Remington is moved slightly forward. This prevents .280 Remington ammunition from being chambered and fired in a .270 Winchester chamber.

The shoulder of the .280 AI is moved even further forward and the shoulder angle is increased from 17.5 degrees to 40 degrees. The .280 AI also has a less tapered case than the .280 Remington and the .270 Winchester.

With a completely different lineage than the other three cartridges, the 7mm Remington Magnum has a unique look as well. Not only is it a belted magnum cartridge, but it has a larger rim diameter and a 25 degree shoulder.

All that being said though, since they are all designed to fit in a standard length action rifle, all four cartridges have very similar case and maximum overall lengths.

Not surprisingly, the .270 Winchester and .280 Remington have very similar case capacities while the .280 AI can hold a little more powder because of its less tapered case and steeper 40 degree shoulder. Even so, the 7mm Remington Magnum can hold significantly more powder than the other three, which is due in large part to its larger diameter case.

Additionally, the .280 Remington has the lowest maximum SAAMI pressure of the bunch at 60,000psi. The 7mm Remington Magnum comes next at 61,000psi and is followed by the .270 Winchester and .280 AI, which both have a maximum SAAMI pressure of 65,000psi.

Finally, bullet size is other big distinguishing factor between them. The .270 Winchester also uses .277″ bullets while the .280 Remington, .280 AI, and 7mm Remington Magnum all use .284″ bullets.

270 Win vs 280 Rem vs 280 AI vs 7mm Mag Ballistics

Those differences in the external dimensions of the .270 Winchester, .280 Remington, .280 Ackley Improved, and 7mm Remington Magnum do translate into differences in ballistic performance, though probably not quite as much as you’d initially expect.

This is illustrated in the table below comparing Nosler Trophy Grade and Hornady Precision Hunter factory ammunition loaded with 130gr AccuBond (.435 BC) and 145gr ELD-X (.536 BC) bullets in .270 Winchester, 140gr AccuBond (.485 BC) and 150gr ELD-X (.574 BC) bullets in .280 Remington, 140gr AccuBond (.485 BC) and 162gr ELD-X (.631 BC) bullets in .280 AI, and 140gr AccuBond (.485 BC) and 162gr ELD-X (.631 BC) bullets in 7mm Rem Mag.

All eight loads used a 200 yard zero.

Interestingly, the 130 grain .270 load has an almost identical trajectory to the .280 Remington 140 grain Accubond load. The same goes for the 145gr .270 Winchester vs the 150gr .280 Remington load. In both cases, the .270 Winchester has a slightly flatter trajectory, but the .280 Remington has a tiny bit more kinetic energy at all ranges (about 5-10% at 500 yards).

The three .284″/7mm 140gr Nosler loads all use the exact same AccuBond bullet, just fired at different velocities: the 7mm Rem Mag is 50fps faster than the .280 AI, which is in turn about 150fps faster than the .280 Rem. With that in mind, the minor differences in trajectory and retained energy between the three are not at all surprising. The results are also about what you’d expect for the Hornady Precision hunter loads for those three cartridges.

That being said, the .280 AI is clearly a little closer in performance to the 7mm Rem Mag than it is to the .280 Remington.

The chart below compares how much a 10 mile per hour crosswind impacts those same .270 Winchester, .280 Remington, .280 AI, and 7mm Remington Magnum loads out to 500 yards.

As you can see, even though they have a very similar trajectory with both light and heavy for caliber bullets, the .280 Remington has a clear advantage over the .270 Winchester in terms of wind drift. Once again, the 7mm Remington Magnum has the least wind drift. It’s followed closely by the .280 Ackley Improved and there is a slightly larger gap between the .280 AI and the .280 Remington.

Now lets talk about recoil.

The table below compares the recoil produced by the Nosler loads compared above for those cartridges when fired from a 7.5 pound rifle. I used Nosler’s own reloading data published online (available here, here, here, and here). I’m not aware of any rifles that are currently manufactured in all four cartridges, so in the interest of making as close to an “apples to apples” comparison as possible, I just decided to make the comparison with a hypothetical rifle that weighs exactly the same for each cartridge.

Felt recoil will vary from shooter to shooter and rifle to rifle, but free recoil energy is still a useful way to compare cartridges.

As you can see, the .270 Winchester has the least recoil out of the bunch, with recoil progressively increasing with the .280 Remington, .280 Ackley Improved, and 7mm Remington Magnum.

This is one of the most interesting points of comparison between the 7mm Rem Mag and .280 AI though. As you can see, that particular 7mm Mag load has a little more free recoil energy than the .280 AI when used in the same weight rifle, but is shooting the same bullet only 50 feet per second faster.

This is because it takes an additional 3.5 grains of powder to produce that additional 50fps of velocity. In this case, it takes about 6% more powder to produce about 1.5% more velocity and this results in about 6-7% more recoil. In other words, that extra powder is resulting in diminishing returns in terms of velocity, but still producing more recoil.

Interestingly enough, Nosler also publishes a .280 Ackley Improved load with a 140gr bullet at 3,222fps that slightly exceeds the velocity of that particular 7mm Rem Mag load above. However, since the .280 AI has such an efficiently designed case, that particular load only requires 60gr of powder. The 7mm Rem Mag load above still has about 3% more free recoil energy than the faster .280 AI load.

That’s not a gigantic difference, but it’s also not nothing either.

So, does that mean the claim that the .280 Ackley Improved can do everything the 7mm Remington Magnum can do, but with less recoil is true?

Well, sort of.

It is true that certain factory loads and handloads for the .280 AI can come very close and even exceed the performance of typical 7mm Remington Magnum factory loads. It’s also true that those .280 AI loads generally require a little less powder and thus produce less free recoil energy (all other things being the same). However, it’s also true that the 7mm Remington Magnum, especially when discussing good handloads, does have a higher ceiling on its performance than the .280 Ackley Improved.

So, yes, it’s easy to find examples of .280 Ackley Improved loads that either match or exceed the performance of the 7mm Remington Magnum and still have less recoil. However, the 7mm Remington Magnum is still capable of greater velocities overall.

Barrel length is another thing you should keep in mind. Nosler used a 24″ barrel for the .270 Winchester and 7mm Remington Magnum, but a 26″ barrel for the .280 Remington and .280 Ackley Improved in their published reloading data I used above. This undoubtedly has an impact on bullet velocities.

Remember: the gap in performance between many .280 Remington, .280 Ackley Improved, and 7mm Remington Magnum loads (especially the latter two) is pretty small. Indeed, depending on the exact barrel length of the rifles in question, the real world advantage one cartridge may have over the other may narrow considerably, disappear, or even flip in favor of the other cartridge.

Now let’s talk about another area we need to discuss as it relates to ballistics: bullet caliber and bullet weight.

The .270 Winchester uses .277″ bullets while the .280 Remington, .280 Ackley Improved, and 7mm Remington Magnum all use slightly larger .284″ bullets.

Since they use larger diameter bullets, the .280 Rem, .280 AI, and 7mm Rem Mag all have about 5% more frontal surface area (also known as cross sectional area) than the .270 Winchester (.0633 vs .0603 square inches). All other things being equal, a bigger bullet will make a bigger hole, cause more tissue damage, and result in more blood loss.

Once again, that’s not a gigantic difference, but it’s a slight advantage in favor of the .284″/7mm cartridges.

With regards to bullet weight, the majority of .270 Winchester factory loads shoot bullets in the 120-150 grain range. 130 grain and 150 grain bullets are by far the most common.

On the other hand, the .280 Remington is normally offered with 139 grain, 140 grain, or 150 grain bullets, but it’s possible to find a few loads with 156 grain, 160 grain, and 165 grain bullets as well. The .280 AI is similar, with 140 grain, 150 grain, and 162 grain bullets being the basically only choices at this time in factory ammo for the cartridge.

Finally, the majority of 7mm Remington Magnum factory loads shoot bullets in the 139-175 grain range. Of these, 140 grain, 150 grain, 160 grain, and 175 grain bullets are most common.

Here’s one last thing to consider when comparing these cartridges: magazine capacity.

Since it uses a much larger case diameter, most rifle magazines will hold more .270 Winchester, .280 Remington, or .280 AI cartridges than 7mm Remington Magnum cartridges. Typically, a rifle magazine that can hold 4-5 .270 or .280 cartridges will only be able to hold 3 7mm Remington Magnum cartridges.

So where do we stand with each cartridge?

Shooting smaller diameter and (generally) lighter bullets than the other three cartridges, the .270 Winchester has a very flat (though not the flattest) trajectory and the least recoil of the bunch, but also carries the least energy downrange and is the most vulnerable to wind drift.

Typical .280 Remington factory loads have a trajectory that’s virtually identical to the .270 Winchester. However, the cartridge shoots larger diameter bullets that are generally heavier. Those bullets are much more resistant to wind drift and retain much more energy as they travel down range. However, that comes at the expense of a little more recoil than the .270 Winchester.

The .280 Ackley Improved offers a modest ballistic improvement over the .280 Remington in terms of trajectory, wind resistance, and retained energy. Basically, it can hold more powder and thus can shoot the same weight bullet a little bit faster. This comes at the expense of more recoil though. However, even though the cartridge closely approaches the overall performance of the 7mm Remington Magnum, the .280 AI still has somewhat less recoil since it requires less powder to achieve a similar level of performance.

Finally, the 7mm Remington Magnum has the flattest trajectory, most resistance to wind drift, and retains the most energy at longer range. It’s also better suited to using heavier bullets than the other cartridges. However, that comes at the expense of more recoil and the larger diameter case of the cartridge results in a reduced magazine capacity in most rifles.

270 vs 280 vs 280 AI vs 7mm Rem Mag Ammo Selection

While all four are pretty commonly available, the .270 Winchester and the 7mm Remington Magnum are by far the most popular out of the bunch. In fact, those two cartridges are likely among the Top 10 best selling rifle cartridges in the United States each year. I’d wager that the .270 Winchester is a little more commonly used than the 7mm Rem Mag.

Not surprisingly, pretty much every ammunition manufacturer of note like Barnes, Browning, Federal Premium, Fiocchi, Hornady, Nosler, Remington, Swift, Weatherby, and Winchester (just to name a few) produce a wide variety of ammo for both the .270 Win and the 7mm Rem Mag.

The .280 Remington is somewhat less common, but still pretty easy to find with Barnes, Federal, Hornady, Nosler, Remington, and Winchester all producing good quality .280 Remington hunting factory ammo.

The relatively new .280 AI is nowhere near as common as the 270 or 7mm Rem Mag. At this point, only Federal, Nosler, and Hornady make .280 Ackley Improved factory ammo. For this reason, the .280 AI is best suited for handloading. It’s now possible to buy .280 AI brass (Nosler brass is a particularly good choice), but you can also make your own by fireforming .280 Remington brass.

Additionally, it’s possible to safely (and often relatively accurately) fire .280 Remington ammo in a .280 AI rifle. However, the brass is then fireformed to .280 AI after doing so, which is yet another reason why it’s a good idea to handload if you like the .280 AI.

BUY SOME OF THE BEST 270 WIN HUNTING AMMO HERE

BUY SOME GREAT 280 REM HUNTING AMMO HERE

BUY SOME EXCELLENT 280 ACKLEY IMPROVED HUNTING AMMO HERE

BUY SOME QUALITY 7mm REM MAG HUNTING AMMO HERE

Read the articles below if you’d like to learn more details about some of the various hunting ammunition choices for the 270 Winchester or 7mm Remington Magnum.

Best 270 Ammo For Hunting Elk, Deer, And Other Big Game

Best 7mm Remington Magnum Ammunition For Hunting Deer, Elk, & Other Big Game

Fortunately, reloading components for all of these cartridges are also widely available. Since the .280, .280 AI, and 7mm Rem Mag use the very popular .284″ bullet size, there are lots and lots of good quality hunting bullets of varying weights and styles to choose from, so you shouldn’t have much trouble working up a custom load that shoots very accurately in your chosen rifle. Though only a few cartridges (like the 270 WSM, .270 Weatherby, and 6.8 Remington SPC) use .277″ bullets, the fact that the .270 itself is so popular means there’s also a decent amount of quality bullets to choose from for that cartridge as well.

Regardless of the cartridge you choose, you’ll have a gigantic bullet selection consisting of virtually every major style of bullet to choose from like the Barnes TTSX, Berger VLD, the Hornady ELD-X, GMX, InterBond, InterLock, and SST, the Nosler AccuBond, AccuBond Long Range, Ballistic Tip, E-Tip, and Partition, the Remington Core Lokt, the Swift Scirocco and A-Frame, and the Winchester Power Point (just to name a few).

270 vs 280 Rem vs 280 AI vs 7mm Mag: Rifle Selection

The rifle situation is very similar to the ammunition situation with these cartridges: .270 Winchester and 7mm Remington Magnum, in that order, are the most popular, followed by the .280 Remington and .280 Ackley Improved.

Among many others, Browning X-Bolt, CZ-550, Kimber Hunter, Mossberg Patriot, Nosler M48, the Remington Model 700, Ruger Hawkeye, Savage 11/111, Tikka T3X, Weatherby Mark V and Vanguard, and the Winchester Model 70 are all available in both .270 Winchester and 7mm Remington Magnum.

The .280 Remington is currently manufactured by Browning, Remington, and Winchester in their X-Bolt, Model 700, and Model 70 rifles.

Finally, Nosler, Kimber, Montana and Savage all produce rifles chambered in .280 Ack Imp. If you’re interested in doing so, it’s also possible for a skilled gunsmith to convert a rifle in .280 Remington over to the .280 Ackley Improved chambering with a chamber reamer.

Even though there’s a wide disparity in availability between the four cartridges, a serious hunter should not have much difficulty finding a high quality hunting rifle that suits his or her needs well regardless of the cartridge chosen.

BUY A NICE 270 WIN HUNTING RIFLE HERE

BUY A REALLY GOOD 280 REMINGTON HUNTING RIFLE HERE

BUY A GREAT 280 ACKLEY IMPROVED HUNTING RIFLE HERE

BUY AN EXCELLENT 7mm REMINGTON MAGNUM HUNTING AMMO HERE

Read the article below if you’d like to learn more details about some of the various hunting rifle choices for the 270 Winchester.

Best 270 Rifles For Hunting – Ultimate Guide

270 vs 280 Remington vs 280 Ackley Improved vs 7mm Rem Mag: Which Is Right For You?

Do you primarily hunt medium sized game like deer, feral hogs, or black bear at ranges within 200 yards? The .270 Winchester, .280 Remington, .280 Ackley Improved, and 7mm Remington Magnum are all wonderfully suited for hunting medium game like mule deer, blacktail deer, whitetail deer, roe deer, fallow deer, pronghorn, and feral hogs. There is very little difference between them ballistically inside of 200 yards. Go with the .270 Winchester if you want the cheapest or easiest to find factory ammo or if you’re sensitive to recoil.

Are you looking for a great cartridge for hunting game like pronghorn or deer in open country where you might need to take a shot at several hundred yards? Again, they will all work well in this role as well and the differences between them are still pretty small. With typical hunting factory loads, the 7mm Remington Magnum and the .280 Ackley Improved have a slight advantage over the others in this regard with a flatter trajectory and the most resistance to wind drift. Of the two, the .280 Ackley Improved has a little less recoil, but ammo is easier to find for the 7mm Mag.

Are you sensitive to recoil? The .270 Winchester has by far the least recoil of the bunch. The .280 Remington and .280 Ackley Improved (especially the Ackley Improved) are both pretty good alternatives to hunters who want a little more powerful cartridge than the .270 Winchester, but with less recoil than cartridges like the 7mm Remington Magnum and .300 Win Mag.

Are you looking for a great cartridge for sheep, mountain goat, or tahr hunting where you need a heavy hitting cartridge with manageable recoil in a lightweight and easy to carry rifle? All will certainly work to one degree or another. Thanks to Jack O’Connor, the .270 Winchester is considered a classic sheep hunting cartridge if there ever was one. However, the larger .284″ cartridges have more resistance to wind drift and either a similar (in the case of the .280 Rem) or flatter trajectory. This is an area where the .280 AI really shines because it has a similar or slightly superior trajectory and resistance to wind drift when compared to the 7mm Remington Magnum, but less recoil in a lightweight mountain rifle that’s easy to carry in rough country.

Are you a handloader? If not, then you should probably stay away from the .280 Ackley Improved (unless you’re fine with just 1-2 brands as factory ammo options) and go with either the .270 or the 7mm Mag. If you are a handloader, both the .280 Remington and (especially) the .280 AI have outstanding potential. That being said, all four cartridges are generally good options for reloaders.

Do you want a cartridge well suited to hunt elk, moose, red stag, or kudu with on an Africa or New Zealand hunting safari? In addition to all being excellent choices for deer sized game, these cartridges are also suitable for bigger creatures under the right circumstances. Many consider the .270 Winchester to be on the light side for elk and moose hunting, but especially when using heavy, premium quality bullets (like the Nosler Partition), it’s absolutely capable of getting the job done. That being said, the .280 Remington, .280 AI, and 7mm Rem Mag are generally a little better suited for hunting bigger game.

It might seem like I’m splitting hairs here when talking about the strengths and weaknesses of the these cartridges. That’s absolutely true.

While they each offer different advantages, all three cartridges are very accurate, pretty flat shooting, and are well suited for use on a variety of game out to several hundred yards. For the vast majority of hunters, there is very little difference in their performance at typical hunting ranges (inside 300 yds).

The .270 Winchester, .280 Remington, .280 Ackley Improved, and 7mm Remington Magnum are all great rifle cartridges. While there is a large amount of overlap in their capabilities, each one does offer certain advantages. You need to carefully analyze your potential needs and choose the one (270 vs 280 Remington vs 280 Ackley Improved vs 7mm Rem Mag) that you think will fit them best.

Even so, no animal will never know the difference if your shot is placed in the right spot. Get a good hunting rifle chambered in the cartridge that you think fits your needs the best, learn to shoot it well, use quality bullets, and you’ll be all set for most hunting situations.

NEXT: 270 vs 308 WIN: WHICH ONE SHOULD YOU HUNT WITH?

Enjoy this article comparing the 270 Winchester, 280 Remington, 280 Ackley Improved, and 7mm Remington Magnum cartridges? Please share it with your friends on Facebook and Twitter.

The Lyman 50th Edition (p197-198, 212-216), Speer Number 10 (p182-184, 193-196, 201-204), and Hornady 10th Edition (p351-355, 391-400, 406-411) reloading manuals were used as references for the history of the cartridges. The data used to compare the trajectory and wind drift of the cartridges was obtained from Hornady (here, here, here and here) and Nosler (here). Case capacities and reloading data were obtained from Nosler (here, here, here, and here). Maximum pressure obtained from SAAMI (p23 and 28). I used the Hornady Ballistic calculator and ShootersCalculator.com to compare trajectory, wind drift, and recoil for the cartridges.

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North Carolina is one of the top 10 hunting states with almost 700,000 paid license holders. And these hunters are serious about whitetail deer. It’s the most popular game animal with nearly 250,000 hunters spending an average of 15 days per season going after their quarry. If you want to harvest one of the more than 200,000 deer taken in the state each year, be sure you’re aware of the season dates and regulations.

2022-2024 Season Dates

North Carolina deer hunting seasons vary by region, though it’s worth noting that the archery season starts on September 10 everywhere.

Also be aware that the “gun” season for each zone applies to antlered deer only. You can only hunt antlerless deer in an “either-sex gun” season. These are a bit more complicated, so it has its own separate section below.

The archery seasons are either sex unless otherwise specified.

Northeastern and Southeastern Zones

Central Zone

Northwestern Zone

Western Zone

Either-Sex Deer Seasons

Regardless of their zone, each county in North Carolina follows one of five types of either-sex season in which both antlered and antlerless deer can be taken. These often coincide with part of the standard antlered-only gun season.

North Carolina Bag Limits

North Carolina has a pretty high bag limit of six deer, though there’s a season maximum of two antlered deer. There is no daily bag limit.

If you want to hunt more than six deer, it is possible to get bonus antlerless harvest report cards that allow for an additional two antlerless deer per card during the special urban archery season in the participating towns and cities.

Urban archery season lasts from January 14-February 19, and you can find the participating municipalities on page 66 of the North Carolina Inland Fishing, Hunting & Trapping Regulations Digest. The report card costs $11 for both residents and non-residents.

North Carolina Licenses and Costs

North Carolina is a fairly hunter-friendly state in that all you need is a license to hunt deer and any other game animal. In fact, you can even get a combo license that covers both hunting and fishing.

That said, there are many different kinds of licenses divided between annual and lifetime licenses with different prices for residents and non-residents. To be considered a resident, you have to have lived in North Carolina for six months or have established a permanent residence for 60 days. Students attending a university in North Carolina as well as active-duty military stationed in North Carolina or from North Carolina and stationed outside the state.

Anyone hunting in North Carolina needs a license except for:

• A landowner, their spouse or their dependents under 18 hunting on their own land
• Members of the armed forces serving outside of North Carolina in the state on leave for 30 days or less
• Youth under age 16 as long as they have completed a hunter safety course or are accompanied by an adult

Combo Licenses

Hunting-Only Licenses

Big game includes deer, bear and wild turkey, so if you’re a whitetail hunter, make sure to get the appropriate license. If you already have a lesser license but want to hunt deer, you can add it on. It costs $14 for residents and $100 for non-residents.

In addition to the above prices, residents of Georgia, South Carolina, Tennessee and Virginia receive specific discounted non-resident prices for licenses, so make sure you check the digest.

Hunter Education Requirement

You must take a hunter education course and receive a certificate of completion to get a hunting license in North Carolina. The only exceptions are if you have a valid license acquired before July 1, 2013, or obtain an apprentice permit. Hunters with an apprentice permit must be accompanied by a licensed adult 18 years old or older. The Hunting Heritage Apprentice Permit is free.

What Weapons Can You Hunt With in North Carolina?

Archery

North Carolina allows bowhunting with longbows, recurve bows, compound bows and crossbows. Recurve and longbows must have a draw weight of at least 40 pounds while compound bows must have a draw weight of at least 35 pounds. Crossbows have a minimum draw weight of 100 pounds. Broadheads must have a cutting diameter of at least ⅞ inch.

Blackpowder

During blackpowder season, North Carolina only allows firearms manufactured before 1898 that cannot use fixed ammunition or replicas of such a weapon that haven’t been modified to fire fixed ammunition.

Gun

During deer gun season, North Carolina allows the use of shotguns no larger than 10 gauge and pistols with no restrictions on length or caliber. Additionally, any rifle is legal except for fully automatic rifles or those prohibited by specific counties.

Can You Hunt With an AR-15 in North Carolina?

Yes, you can hunt with an AR-15 in North Carolina. The only exceptions are if you have modified your AR-15 or similarly styled rifle for automatic fire or if the specific county has a law that supersedes the state regulation.

What Types of Deer Are Popular in North Carolina?

Whitetail deer are the only species of deer native to North Carolina. There are around 200 elk present in the state, but it is not legal to hunt them. As a result, whitetail deer is by far the most popular game animal, which is also true for the country in general. In 2022 North Carolina deer hunting season, nearly 250,000 hunters spent 3.7 million days harvesting overing 200,000 deer.

What Else Is Popular to Hunt in North Carolina?

Although more people hunt deer in North Carolina than any other game, it’s actually only the fourth most harvested animal. In 2022, doves were by far the most heavily hunted with a total harvest of more than 830,000. Ducks and squirrels were second and third respectively.

Other popular game animals include:

• Rabbits
• Raccoons
• Coyotes
• Geese
• Quail
• Wild swine

For 35 years, Liberty Safe has been our best-selling brand. Based in Payson, Utah, Liberty’s premier production line is manned by Americans. It’s the only US manufacturer offering a full range of entry-level to high-end gun safes. However, we do offer many other U.S.-built safe brands that provide a Liberty Safe alternative.

Although Liberty is the household name, when it comes to quality U.S.-built safe manufacturers, others such as Browning, Champion, Superior, and Rhino offer alternatives to Liberty that might align with your needs. We compiled a short list to compare with Liberty Safes best sellers for your reference.

8 Liberty Safe Alternative Gun Safes

Although Liberty is the household name, when it comes to quality U.S.-built safe manufacturers, others — such as Browning, Champion, Superior, and Rhino — offer alternatives to Liberty that might align with your needs.

While we’re well-versed in the selection of gun safes for sale (you might even call us gun safe nerds), we know that comparing multiple brands can be confusing. The following list outlines Liberty’s best sellers and the closest American-made alternative.

DISCOUNTS & REBATES: The following prices listed below do not reflect any current sales and or rebates available. Additionally, we are currently offering 12-month same as cash financing to qualifying individuals.

1. Liberty Centurion Alternative: RHINO RBFX

Rhino is a veteran-owned gun safe manufacturer located in Caldwell, Idaho. It’s named after the fighter jet Don Suggs flew — a McDonnell Douglas F-4 Phantom. (A twin-jet, all-weather aircraft that had top speeds more than twice that of sound!) An innovative manufacturer, Rhino offers both a patented swing-out gun rack and their new patented SafeX™ Security System.

Liberty Centurion Price Range: $799 – $1,299 Fire Rating: 40 MinutesSteel: 14 Gauge

Rhino RBFX (Featuring Rhino’s Revolutionary New Anti-Pry Technology)Price Range: $1,309 – $1,938Fire Rating: 40 Minutes Steel: 14 Gauge

2. Liberty USA Alternative: none

We hate saying there’s no solution for something. Our team bends over backward to help customers achieve their goals. But when it comes to finding a Liberty safe alternative for the USA series, we can’t. There simply isn’t a comparable American-made gun safe at this price point at this time.

3. Liberty Colonial Alternative: BROWNING HUNTER SERIES

Browning can trace its roots back to 1878, when the Browning Arms Company was founded in Ogden, Utah. It made a name for itself as a sporting gun manufacturer. Over the decades, it has offered a wide assortment of outdoor gear — including gun safes.

Liberty ColonialPrice Range: $2,299 – $3,599Fire Rating: 75 MinutesSteel: 12 Gauge

Browning Hunter SeriesPrice Range: $2,469 – $3,669Fire Rating: 80 MinutesSteel: 12 Gauge

4. Liberty Fatboy Jr. Extreme Alternative: BROWNING HUNTER PATRIOTIC 49

In a head-to-head comparison, The Browning Hunter Patriotic 49 weighs 165 pounds more than the Fatboy Jr. Extreme and can hold one additional long gun. It’s also important to note that the Hunter Patriotic 49 is 11.5 inches taller, requiring a larger ceiling.

Liberty Fatboy Jr. ExtremePrice Range: $2,799 – $2,899Fire Rating: 75 MinutesSteel: 12 Gauge

Browning Hunter Patriotic 49Price Range: $3,389Fire Rating: 80 MinutesSteel: 12 Gauge

5. Liberty Franklin Alternative: BROWNING 1878 Series

Once again, this U.S.-built Liberty Safe alternative is a bit pricier. It also packs on a few more pounds, weighing roughly 75 pounds more than similarly sized safes within the Franklin series.

Liberty FranklinPrice Range: $2,899 – $4,899Fire Rating: 110 MinutesSteel: 12 Gauge

Browning 1878Price Range: $3,169 – $7,019Fire Rating: 90 MinutesSteel: 11 Gauge

6. Liberty Fatboy Alternative: BROWNING HELLS CANYON 49

Head-to-head, this is where we start to see more comparable safes from U.S. manufacturers. They offer similar footprints and storage capacity. One of the primary differences between these two safes is Liberty’s patented flat bar design.

Liberty FatboyPrice Range: $3,999 – $4,199Fire Rating: 110 MinutesSteel: 11 Gauge

Browning Hells Canyon 49Price Range: $4,389 – $4,969Fire Rating: 90 MinutesSteel: 11 Gauge

7. Liberty Lincoln Alternative: CHAMPION SUPERIOR MASTER SERIES

The Superior Master series produced by Champion offers top-tier security and uncompromising craftsmanship. It features thick, reinforced, pry-resistant doors — along with an intelligently designed interior to maximize long-gun and valuable storage.

Liberty Lincoln SeriesPrice Range: $4,099 – $6,599Fire Rating: 120 MinutesSteel: 10 Gauge

Champion Superior Master SeriesPrice Range: $3,599 – $7,899Fire Rating: 120 MinutesSteel: 11 Gauge

8. Liberty Presidential Alternative: AMERICAN SECURITY BFX SERIES

Established in 1946, American Security (aka AMSEC) manufactures some of the strongest gun safes and commercial safes in the world. The BFX series is its premier consumer gun safes. The series features a UL certified RSC burglary rating, aligned with an adjustable interior for customizable storage solutions.

Liberty Presidential SeriesPrice Range: $7,099 – $10,499Fire Rating: 150 Minutes (2.5 Hours)Steel: 70 Gauge

American Security BFX SeriesPrice Range: $5,752 – $9,667Fire Rating: 120 MinutesSteel: 11 Gauge

What to Know About Alternatives to Liberty Gun Safes

Liberty Safe Sells the Only Entry Level American-Made Long Gun Safe

If you want an American-made gun safe for $1,000 (or less), Liberty is your only option.

American Flags Look Cool. They Don’t Guarantee a Made-in-the-USA Safe.

We love Old Glory. And we think things decorated with her look pretty darn cool. But beware a wolf in sheep’s clothing because it’s not uncommon for a foreign gun safe manufacturer to print an American flag print on their product. The flag doesn’t mean it was actually made in the U.S.