The current handheld weapon selection is not only lacking in variety, but has only the wrong kind of variety for this game. The upgrades to the Automatic Rifle are basic stat changes that barely add anything to the feel of progression in survival. Worse, the Elite AR is, almost without exception, the most effective handheld weapon in any scenario, removing any kind of interesting decision in the late game. Because of this, I’m suggesting these changes:

General changes:

• Scrap the weapon upgrade system. If we want to have future weapons, they would likely need to conform to the framework of two beneficial sidegrades and one elite weapon. This becomes difficult to use properly as soon as weapons that aren’t normal guns come into play, and SE would benefit much more from the aforementioned weapons than it would from several variants of normal guns. Progression can easily come from other sources, and handheld weapons are at best an engineer’s last resort.
• Add reloading. Seriously, the R key is unbound by default IIRC and we already have bottles with a fill value. It can’t be too hard to repurpose that code to deal with firing and reloading. Even though the hotbar creates some awkward management, it shouldn’t be difficult to simply pick the first inventory slot with a gun.

New Weapon: Mag-pistol

The basic weapon. It’s cheap, with low range, damage, capacity, and rate of fire, and uses power as well as ammo to fire. Both the gun and ammo would be made in a Survival Kit with only Iron and Nickel, and it would replace the Automatic Rifle (and ammo) that come in the drop pod. The only reason to use it is that it’s better than going hand-to-hand with a Sabiroid.

New Weapon: Rocket Launcher

This should be the go-to weapon if you need to deal damage to a large grid and don’t have a ship. It would be slow-firing, with an ammo capacity of one, large, and inaccurate, but it can do the job. If you can carry enough ammo around to actually score a hit. Of course, it uses standard rockets for ammo and the rockets deal normal rocket damage.

I’d have it take Cobalt to make, so that new players don’t immediately go for it as a weapon and to set up a neat bit of proper progression if Keen ever takes the Uranium and Platinum out of rockets to make them viable.

Weapon Rebalance: Automatic Rifle

The default AR isn’t bad. I’d decrease range and accuracy a little though, as it seems strange that you can deal effective damage at the same range as a Gatling Turret on a ship. Also, so that the Rocket Launcher has a more strongly defined role as an offensive weapon against large grids vs. the AR’s more defensive role that’s actually useful against small ships.

I’ve tried to go for minimalism in this, because of SE’s focus on ship building instead of suit-based PvP and limited dev time. The Mag-pistol is necessary to survive a planet with hostiles turned on unless you find Magnesium immediately. The AR is necessary to deal effective damage at a distance. The Rocket Launcher is necessary to damage buildings or structures without a ship. All three of them use already-existing mechanics, so they shouldn’t be difficult to implement, and they additionally create a rough sort of progression without having one optimal solution to suit combat at the top.

This is my first real suggestion, so I’d definitely like feedback. I can’t notice all the issues, and I’m always trying to improve my ideas.

It’s coming quick this year – ice season. Often early ice can be one of the best times of year, so let’s get ready!

We use two types of rods when ice fishing for walleyes. One is for jigging and one is a dead stick, which is simply hanging a bait in a secondary hole.

One of the things that makes catching walleyes tricky is the way they bite. They don’t really bite a bait, they suck it in. As they move close to their prey, they open their mouth, flare their gills and suck a volume of water, hopefully containing your bait, into their mouth. Then with their sharp teeth they hold the bait in their mouth, waiting for it to quit struggling while determining if they want to swallow it. If they detect something is wrong (bad taste, too much resistance, wrong texture) they just open their mouth, slam their gills tight and blow the bait out. The problem is this can all happen is less than a second!

So as a walleye angler, we need sensitivity in our equipment to not only feel a soft bite, but to feel it quickly and then set the hook before the walleye spits out our offering.

The hookset can often be problematic with walleyes, as their mouth is very boney. To set the hook point into their mouth you have to make your lure move inside the mouth, so it can drive into those bones. With a walleye this can often be difficult because of the way they are holding that bait solidly in their teeth. A hard, solid hookset, is imperative.

Lastly, the rod needs to be able to handle the fight of a walleye. Since the rods are short, normally less than 3-feet, you don’t have a nice long bow in the rod to take up the head shaking of a big walleye. These head shakes are amplified by the use of no-stretch lines (see below). So, a good walleye ice rod needs to be able to absorb the pull of the fish.

It is also important with this short length be able to keep continuous tension on the fish, so it can not throw the bait. Add to that the issue of having to fight the fish up through a small hole and you must have the right action to consistently land fish.

Jigging Rod

This is the rod you’re working by popping, dropping, jiggling, and pounding as you try to entice a walleye to first get interested, and then to strike. We use a couple of different rods for jigging. The Clam Ice Team Professional Series 26” Medium Action Walleye Rod and the JT Outdoors 30″ Gold Digger are great all-around rods. For targeting bigger walleye, we use the JT Outdoors 34″ Black Reign. All of these rods have similar attributes. The shorter ones are particularly good in one-man shacks like the Clam Legend XL Thermal and the longer rods for bigger shacks like the Clam X200 Pro Thermal.

These rods are all super sensitive and lightweight. When fishing in cold conditions, walleyes often don’t hit the bait very aggressively, once again, they are just sucking it in. Also, many times you will be getting bites as the fish chases your bait in an upward direction, so it is hard to detect the bite because they are pushing slack in the line as they bite while they swim toward you. You’ve got to be able to feel them to move on to the next step – setting the hook!

To increase sensitivity, we use a no stretch line as our mainline. The best choice out there is Berkley NanoFil. NanoFil is a uni-filament line, meaning it is a single strand of no-stretch material with no braiding or weaving. The no-stretch attribute greatly increases your ability to feel what is often a subtle bite. The beauty of uni-filament is that it does not retain water in the line, so ice build-up is greatly reduced. Nothing dampens sensitivity more than a big glob of ice on the line! The ice that does build up on NanoFil is on the outside of the line and is quickly taken off with a single sweep between your fingers. For walleye fishing, 8-10lb NanoFil is best.

Often in ice fishing conditions, the water is much clearer than in summertime. There is no algae or sediment from wind to cloud things up. For this reason, you will want to use a Fluorocarbon leader to make the line that is tied to the bait nearly invisible. We use a small #14 to #18 swivel to attach the NanoFil to the Fluorocarbon leader. The length and pound test of the leader depends on conditions. If you are targeting larger fish, then lean towards a 10lb leader made with Berkley Professional Grade 100% Fluorocarbon. For smaller fish or in super clear conditions, you might go as light as 6lb Fluorocarbon. A standard leader length is 2-feet, although in gin clear water a 4-foot one is not uncommon.

The nice thing is that you can rig your reel one time with NanoFil and then adjust your leader to the situation. You can even quickly change to a 2-pound leader if some nice crappies happen to show up! A power hookset can be achieved with these rods because they all fast taper. This means that only the last few inches of the rod have a lot of bend. Since the majority of the rod is stiff, it has a strong backbone and thus amazing hook setting power.

With the few inches on the end of the rod being extremely flexible, you have some rod bend during the fight. It is a very specific action to get the right power in the backbone but flexibility in the tip, and these three rods nailed it!

Dead stick

There are a couple instances when we use dead sticks. The first is when walleyes are in a finicky mood. Often hanging a rod with a simple jig and live minnow in a hole next to where we are jigging produces better than the jigging rod. Jigging is still important to draw the fish in, but we see it on our Lowrance HDS units all the time, a walleye comes in and looks at the jig rod, doesn’t bite, but fades over to the jig and a minnow and slurps it in.

Second, we are also big proponents of using JT Outdoor Hot Boxes for our dead sticks. These boxes have a propane heat source in them to keep the hole clear of ice, so they can be set up remotely from our shacks. They are very portable and quick to set up. These boxes really give us big advantages! If you are fishing a flat or basin area by spreading out lures similar to how you would use planer boards in the summer, you can multiply your results. If you are fishing structure it is nice to be able to set up rods in several depths. Try jigging in a shack at the top of the break with a Hot Box set at the middle or bottom of the break to cover several depths.

In any situation, the big difference between a jigging rod and a dead stick is that you’re are not typically holding the rod to detect the bite. The walleye is going to suck the bait in and either hold it while determining if it is going to eat it, or it will slowly start to move away. Since there is a delay between the bite and the hookset you need to use a much more limber rod for this set-up. Enter the JT Outdoors 36” Walleye Snare Rod. This is one of the coolest rods out there for ice fishing! It is super flexible at the tip to about half way down the rod. You could call this rod action Slow Taper. The idea is that the walleye will suck in the bait and feel little or no resistance from the rod. Remember too much resistance will make them want to spit the bait.

The Snare Rod has a built-in red ball at the end of the rod, so even at a distance you can see the slightest bite as the rod tip and ball will move slightly down. When you get to the rod at this point, a solid sweeping hookset will double over the Snare Rod enough to get into its strong backbone and drive the hooks home! We have never seen another rod on the market that duplicates this rods ability to trick a walleye into holding on to a bait with its limberness, but still have the hook setting strength of a Snare Rod!

Sometimes, especially with Hot Boxes it might take a while to get to a biting walleye. What’s interesting is that you will catch a surprising number of fish that sit still and hold on to the lure a long time. The other thing that may happen is that once the walleye determines its ok to eat the bait, it will typically swallow the bait a little deeper and it will start to move away. Correspondingly the Snare Rod will double over even more. Often the red ball will even touch the water!

This is where things get interesting. As the Snare Rod bends more and more, it also starts putting more pressure on the fish. Many times the fish will make a sudden move to try to get away. This move often puts the Snare Rod into its strong backbone and the fish will literally set the hook by its self – thus the name Snare Rod! One big advantage of the Snare rod, is once the fish is hooked up, you’ll have all kinds of flex in the rod and fish rarely get off.

Set up the Snare with the same Nanofil mainline and don’t be afraid to drop down a size or two in your leader pound test, this is a more finesse technique, so a lighter leader will often allow the minnow to swim more actively on a light jig.

Two rods, same result – The Next Bite!

I can remember it like it was just yesterday. My dad had borrowed a bow from a family member and was tinkering with it at the dining room table. I thought to myself, “Could it be? Were we about to become archery hunters?” Up until this point, my dad and I had always toted rifles in the deer woods. Watching him shoot and sight that old bow in seemed like an agonizing process. It seemed like it took days to get it right. The sight looked like something out of a junk pile when compared to those of present day. There were no fiber optic pins or bubble levels. No, these pins were painted: a poor excuse of red and yellow. Yeah, we’ve got it pretty good today in the world of bow sights. We even have the option of having one single pin or multiple pins to look at. Pretty spoiled, right? Yet, this is a common conundrum when picking out a sight and this current topic: single pin sights versus multi-pin sights. Each have their pros and cons. Let’s look down the path of each and see which one might be the better option for you.

Single pin sights

Single pin sights are exactly what they sound like. Within the sight housing, there is one pin for you to focus on and one alone. There isn’t a bunch of clutter in the form of other pins and target acquisition comes faster. It puts the confusion to a minimum and, in the heat of the moment, that could help a quite a bit. These sights operate on a slider, meaning that you can dial that one pin to exact yardage. It’s a huge benefit in terms of accuracy, which is probably why it is the most popular choice for target archers. This feature takes the painstaking task of pin gapping out of the equation altogether. For those that don’t know, pin gapping is where you aim between pins. Say you’ve got a 35 yard shot. You aim between your 30 and 40 yard pin. It’s a technique that works and gets the job done, but one that will never be better than single pin accuracy.

There are also some drawbacks of running a single pin sight. These have nothing to do with accuracy on the range, but everything to do with hunting because of having to adjust the sight to yardage, which poses a potential problem. Actually, it poses a few. The first is that things happen quickly out in the field sometimes. Say you’ve got a buck standing at 30 yards and have your sight adjusted to 30. You come to full draw and all of a sudden that buck jumps and runs out to 53 yards. Now, you’ve got to either know your exact holdover for 53 yards or have to let down and readjust your sight to 53. That is either going to potentially hurt you in accuracy or in time. Another issue is the actual act of adjusting your sight. Doing so involves movement and movement is what can bite you as a bowhunter. Drawing your bow back is movement enough. Adding more to the equation definitely has the potential of blowing an opportunity.

Pros

• Open sight picture
• Fast target acquisition
• Exact yardage accuracy

Cons

• Have to adjust sight for each shot
• Adds in movement
• Might cost one opportunity in the field

Multi-pin sights

Multi-pin sights are definitely the most popular in the bowhunting world, especially for beginners. When starting out, it’s comforting to know that you’ve got a set pin for each yardage. They come in three, five and seven pin models with the option of adding a slider to reach way out to longer yardage. These pins are usually set in 10 yard increments; often at 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, etc. That right there is probably the biggest advantage to using a multi-pin sight for hunting. It completely takes the step of adjusting the slider for each shot. That deer standing at 30, but then bounds out to 53? A hunter wouldn’t even have to let down from full draw. All they would have to do is switch the pin they were aiming with. They are a timesaver and, in the mountains, mere seconds can be the difference between notching a tag or eating tag soup. Not having to adjust to yardage also gives the advantage of less movement. And, on an archery hunt, the less movement the better.

Just like single pin sights, multi-pin sights are not all peaches and cream. While having multiple pins in the sight housing is a plus, it can also be a disadvantage. The first is clutter, especially with seven pin models. In dense cover with branches every which way covering up your sightline, having a bunch of pins doing the same thing is not optimal. It could create an issue with trying to pick a spot. All of those pins in there not only cover up the sight picture, but also add an element of confusion. If I had a dollar for every time I heard someone say “I used the wrong pin,” I could probably buy an out-of-state tag or two. It’s even happened to me. The first elk I shot at I couldn’t tell you which pin I used with how intense the situation was. That is the reality of bowhunting and why many of us thrive on it. The intensity and intimacy of close range encounters where thinking straight comes few and far between. In this regard, simpler is better with sights. There is also the issue of pin gapping, which doesn’t offer that exact yardage accuracy you get with a single pin sight.

Pros

• Great for beginners
• Have set pins for various yardages
• Timesaver in the field

Cons

• Multiple pins cover up the sight picture
• Could use the “wrong pin”
• Must be aware of pin gap for yardages in between set pins (no exact yardage accuracy)

Closing

Choosing between a multi-pin sight and single pin sight really comes down to you and your style of hunting in my opinion. Most spot and stalk bowhunters I know that are crawling around open country usually opt for a multi-pin sight. They need the ability to adjust yardage on the fly—especially for hunting the rut when bucks move every which way without a moment’s notice. This is what I prefer as that is the country in which I mostly hunt. However, someone in dense cover or hunting from a treestand might prefer the single pin. Being in close quarters, they know their yardage and can have that single pin set right to it, ready for action. My best advice is to try these sights out and see what you like better. Even if you are a spot and stalk hunter, you might find that you prefer the simplicity of a single pin. There is nothing wrong with that. The same can be said for hunting out of a tree. This is one of the coolest things about bowhunting to me. We have the luxury of molding our system exactly to what we want and how we want it. All of this is a far cry from those red and yellow painted pins bolted within that bent piece of metal I saw as a kid.

Check this out!

For another look at single vs. multi pin bowsights, check out this article here: Single pin bow sights: Are they really better?

A pair of marble eyes suspended in green shadows. Last thing seen by many a baitfish. The weed-walleye connection is well documented, and many walleye tournaments have been won by targeting walleyes above, outside, and buried in weeds.

Species of aquatic vegetation used by walleyes vary with environments. Seasons ordain certain species of vegetation as walleye kingdoms while evicting walleyes from others. So what weeds do walleyes use most, or in what order as the environment changes with the seasons?

Some think it’s simple: Follow the forage. But it’s hard to find weeds without forage. Other factors are afoot. Where to start on any given day — in green cabbage? Elodea or coontail? Tobacco cabbage? Some other pondweed. Perhaps milfoil?

Wisconsin’s Greg Bohn puts clients on 10-pound walleyes like Miguel Cabrera hits baseballs — at a record pace. He can take clients trophy hunting or go for numbers, day or night. Either way, count on fishing around weeds. For Bohn, vegetation is more than cover. Plants are indicators, gauges, pointers, and signs on his dashboard. “I’m always excited anticipating how the weeds are going to be developed when the season opens in Wisconsin,” he says. “Lakes can be frozen on opening day, and I’ve seen openers with stalks already three feet high. It’s a guessing game until you get out there and investigate.”

In a warm spring, plants grow quickly and chances are good walleyes are in and around some variety of “cabbage.” What anglers commonly refer to as cabbage is mostly clasping-leaf pondweed. But most seasons start with a different plant species — the first one standing, and Bohn’s best early indicator. “Takes time for some types to develop,” he says. “So you have a growth shallow right away, and it progresses deeper during that first month of the season until you’re fishing around different species at different depths in May than in June.”

Bohn’s walleye compass when the season opens is elodea, sometimes called waterweed. “It’s available right at ice-out,” he says. “Elodea grows from a couple feet out to about 8 feet — sometimes in depths of 10 feet. Walleyes love it early. Find elodea and you find walleyes because it’s the only game in town. Perch are looking for vegetation to spawn on most years when the only greenery is elodea, which grows to a height of 10 inches to a foot. Start searching for it early in 2- to 4-foot depths. It generally appears first in bays where the water warms up sooner than the lake.”

Then he looks for what some call broadleaf, tobacco, or brown cabbage, soon followed by clasping leaf pondweed, also called green or narrow-leaf cabbage. “When green cabbage reaches maximum height, the buds pop out above the surface,” he says. “It’s a tough plant. The main stalk can break light line when a big fish wraps in it. It comes up quick and it’s fast growing. It’s the next thing to take off after elodea, and it’s the first type of vegetation most anglers begin to pattern walleyes in.”

Once a big-fish weedbed, always a big-fish weedbed. “There’s something about certain weedbeds that draw big fish almost every year,” he says. “One particular weedbed in a lake may continue producing big fish all your life at a certain point of the season. The attraction sometimes is a steep drop along one edge into deeper water. Sometimes it’s boulders along it. Sometimes it’s consistency of growth year-to-year. It could be they spent a lot of their young lives there, because it’s close to spawning habitat. Little idiosyncrasies that make it attractive in ways we can’t see — that progression is the neatest thing to follow.”

Walleyes are attracted to peak growths of different species of vegetation, but other conditions may determine how walleyes use it. “Walleyes come in-and-out of weeds a lot,” he says. “They react immediately to a change in the surface chop or a change in the light around weeds. They use vegetation differently, based on conditions and weather. They travel half way across the lake to find warmer water in spring. Your temperature gauge becomes your guide. In the 40°F- to 60°F-range, a few degrees makes all the difference. When it gets cold at night early in the season, deeper water is warmer than shallow water and walleyes are in deeper weeds. On sunny days, you find them moving shallower as the water warms — always to a peaking species of vegetation growing in some slightly different substrate.

“As the season progresses, walleyes might be less concerned about a few degrees of temperature change, but temperature remains critical all summer,” he says. “Plant species shift and walleye preferences change, too. They follow the vegetation to an edge, gradually shifting deeper as vegetation extends downward. The 4-foot plants are unproductive by late June, when 8- to 10-foot weededges become prime. It’s a combination of two things — water temperature and maturity of plant growth.”

Bohn always works vegetation from the outside edge inward. “Don’t pile right into the vegetation,” he says. “Our initial casts don’t even reach the weededge. Any clumps or points off the edge — that’s where the big fish are. Start well outside the weedline and feel for the edge. You often can tell what kind of plants are present by jigging. If not, try to get a look. Most days, the type of vegetation is important. When you start catching walleyes, you have to know what plants to look for on the next spot.”

Mid-summer cabbage lines and coontail clumps stop between 6 and 20 feet, depending on water clarity. “It takes time for the food chain to get going down there,” he says. “Minnows may not inhabit those deep edges for a while. Until the plants mature, baitfish continue to use shallower vegetation. But those plants may become too thick and walleyes seem to avoid beds that are overly dense. They like newer growth coming into peak height. It’s like a stair-step progression. Walleyes use plants at 4 to 6 feet, then within a week or two they move down to those at 8 to 10 feet, and so on. The deepest are coontail and sandgrass down to about 20 feet and that’s the end of the cycle. That’s where they stay until ice-up.”

Patterns and Presentation

“Walleyes are there big-time or not at all,” Bohn says. “It takes a short time to figure out which plants to focus on. Move quickly because walleyes do. It’s amazing what can happen in seven days as the ‘right weeds’ suddenly become too thick for walleyes and they move to a new restaurant just a few feet deeper. Sometimes walleyes cross the lake to find the next stage of weedgrowth. These movements aren’t necessarily taking place on the same piece of structure or in the same area of the lake. Sometimes it seems like the entire walleye population moves into one particular weedbed for a short time. Usually, though, when they move it’s a pattern that persists around the lake. Say they move to a type of vegetation growing at 10 feet on a sandbar. Every sandbar on the lake that has that type of vegetation has walleyes.

“Wind pushes walleyes shallower,” he says, “but I love to fish vegetation on flat, sunny, calm days right after a cold front. Bluebird days after fronts can be awesome in weeds. Walleyes favor shade and hold where feeding is easy. Look for fish activity on the surface. Young perch dimple the surface and outline a weedbed in calm water. Watch for them skipping out of the water, indicating predators on their tail. But windy days are great, too. In either case, I catch walleyes in weeds with 1/16- to 1/8-ounce perch-colored jigs.”

As surface temps warm between 60°F and 68°F, Bohn switches from fatheads and chubs to leeches, then to crawlers under slipbobbers from 68°F and up — but he uses more artificial softbaits than anything else. “When plant growth is developing, panfish become a nuisance, especially at the leech-and-crawler stages,” he says. “Softbaits take off when the water reaches 60°F. At a certain point every summer, I stop bringing livebait. Softbaits outproduce livebait in warm water.”

He jigs with 10-pound Stren Magnathin. “I like mono with plastics,” he says. “Braids work in vegetation, but the drop is less radical with thicker mono. And when you lift with braid, action is more abrupt because of the lack of stretch. It removes the arc in your lift-drop, too. Walleyes tend to hit on the drop, so having that arc, that pause at the top, and that slower fall is critical. Braid is too abrupt. No need for long casts, either. In weeds, short casts are a must.”

Bohn pitches with a rod at least 7 feet long with a medium power and a fast tip. “G. Loomis makes the BSR852, a 7-foot 1-inch stick,” he says. “It’s better known as a bass rod, but it’s an awesome jigging rod for plastics and walleyes. Medium power and fast action are needed to rip weeds free. For jigging I use a slightly heavier jig with plastics. If I’m using a 1/16-ounce jig with minnows, I use a 1/8-ounce one with softbaits. There are many differences between jigging livebait and plastics. To be productive, you have to appreciate those differences.”

Bohn uses 4-inch soft jerkbaits in minnow shapes in 55°F to 75°F water. “Once leeches and crawlers start working, Kalin’s and Berkley grubs excel,” he says. “Paddletail minnows and small swimbaits — a lot of softbaits work, but I have my best luck in warm water with 3-, 4-, and 5-inch action tails that resemble leeches and crawlers. Ring worms and grubs are good in warm water. Once the water starts to cool and days get shorter, minnow-style baits come back. We began catching bigger fish faster with softbaits than we did with livebait years ago. It’s so effective. I was strictly a livebait guy for years, but now I rarely have livebait on board once the water warms.”

After becoming a “plastics guy,” he designed the Walleye Limit Minnow. “It has the right texture and lifelike flexibility,” he says. “Stiff plastics don’t work well for walleyes. They get bumped and tapped, but not eaten. I think those bumps sometimes indicate walleyes are testing the texture of the bait. The Walleye Limit Minnow is the best soft jerk for walleyes I’ve used.”

Most people jig upward all the time. “With softbaits, you need something a little different,” he says. “Every day can be different. Some days it’s pop it up and let it fall, but sometimes they want it moving horizontally then dropping. You have to incorporate a pull, a short swim, or a slow lift, giving walleyes the opportunity to move under the jig. I freeze the rod tip at 11 o’clock, never go beyond noon, and never drop it below 10 o’clock. I watch the bow in the line. When you lower the rod you lose contact with the jig long enough for fish to pick it up and spit it out without feeling a thing. Freeze that rod at 11 o’clock and you feel everything. You see more line strikes and feel more ticks and light bites.”

A jig has to be rigged perfectly with softbaits. “It has to be straight,” he says. “If it’s spinning, circling, or running sideways, it won’t produce. Make sure the lure looks symmetrical and straight — not off balance, bunched up, or crooked. With minnow-shaped softbaits you do more twitching. With action-tails you twitch less and swim more. Hopping them is good, but a slow, steady swim can be best. With livebait, you give them time to get a good hold on it. With softbaits, you want to set the hook immediately. Clients often get bites without setting the hook right away. It’s in and out of their mouths so quickly. Weeds feel almost the same. If you feel a tip or a tap like a perch tapping a nightcrawler, that’s a strike. A lot of strikes are weight strikes — if you feel weight, set the hook.”

With softbaits, you get a lot of “let’s-get-acquainted bumps,” he says. “The best way to get that walleye to strike after a bump is to keep going. Act as if nothing happened and keep jigging. Once you get the lure near the boat, don’t raise it up immediately. Walleyes follow more than muskies. After the lure gets to the boat we catch tons of walleyes by jigging up and down right under the boat. Maybe 6 to 8 inches, and just a couple lift and drops. If they’re there, they react to that abrupt change in retrieve angle. Work it all the way in.”

As mentioned before, Bohn likes perch colors. “Walleyes are on perch-imitating jigs and baits based in green,” he says. “Chartreuse-and-lime, glow watermelon — any shade of green. A perch-glow head in firetiger or parrot is my favorite. All green or green-back, pearl-belly plastics are key in weeds.”

A soft jerk on a small jig swimming through green shadows. Last thing seen by many a marble eye near Greg Bohn.

Are you a fish food lover searching for a unique delicacy to try? Or perhaps you’re an adventurous foodie seeking out new and exciting flavors?

Either way, you may have heard of the bowfin fish – a prehistoric-looking creature found in the freshwater lakes and rivers of North America. But the question remains, can you eat bowfin fish?

In this article, we’ll dive into the culinary world of this intriguing fish and explore whether it’s a delicious delicacy or better left untouched.

So, let’s reel in the facts and discover if the bowfin fish is a tasty treat or a fishy foe! It is safe to eat bowfin fish, but most people don’t like the flavor because they don’t prepare it properly.

Unless it is properly prepared, it will have a soft, mushy texture. The flavor is often compared to catfish but with a meatier taste.

Is Bowfin Fish Edible And Safe To Eat?

The bowfin, scientifically known as Amia calva, has an elongated body and a mottled olive-green and brown coloration, which makes it look rather unattractive.

Its body is covered in heavy scales, its head is armored with bony plates, and its mouth is filled with sharp teeth.

Additionally, this fish has a slimy texture and can swim backward, making it quite unusual in appearance and behavior.

Although bowfin is considered safe for consumption, many people may not find it appealing due to its unpleasant appearance and taste.

In fact, there are plenty of other fish species that are more desirable for eating. Unfortunately, some game fishermen categorize bowfin as “trash fish” and end up killing them unnecessarily.

How Does A Bowfin Fish Differ From Any Other Fin Fish?

It’s just like filleting other fish, but there’s a slight difference since the ribs extend a little further down toward the anal fin than in white bass or stripers.

Compared to most game fish, the meat of this fish has a softer texture and should be cooked quickly.

Bowfin Fish And Its Nicknames

There may be no fish in North America with more informal nicknames than bowfin. What’s in a name, anyway?

No matter what we call it, a bowfin would still be a badass, ready to shake off the trash fish label (and possibly your ego and hook as well).

However, bowfin has long been regarded as “trash” and “rough” fish by general fishing communities, as their nicknames suggest.

The usual BS folklore can be blamed for this:

• They harm game fish.
• They are difficult to catch.
• They are certainly unattractive to eat.

It is important to note that these common beliefs are unfounded.

Experience of Eating Bowfin

While bowfin will fight spiritedly when you put them at the end of your line, most people believe you shouldn’t eat them, but they are wrong.

There is no comparison between them and walleye, northern pike, or sunfish, but they can be prepared so that they taste better.

When bowfin is wrongly prepared, its flesh will be soft and jellylike, and although it might be edible, most people won’t consider it palatable. They would be right when prepared wrong.

There is a reason why they call the bowfin the mudfish. The strong mud flavor is what keeps many bow fishermen away from them.

Bow fishermen report that the fish are edible, but not something they’d choose to eat. As bowfin age, they accumulate mercury in their bodies, and when a bowfin is older, it will have more mercury.

The risk of mercury harming an unborn child is particularly significant for pregnant women.

There is a risk that it can harm parts of a child’s body, such as the lungs, kidneys, and nervous system. Additionally, it could damage the nervous system of a young child. Nevertheless, mercury is an issue that affects all predatory fish.

What Does Taste Like?

While bowfin is not a common food choice, a few daring fishermen have sampled it and reported that the texture is soft, and the taste is unremarkable.

Many found the mushy consistency and greyish color unappetizing, leading them to believe that it lacks flavor and texture. As a result, the majority of people tend to avoid eating bowfin due to its unappealing appearance and lackluster taste.

Why Is Bowfin Fish Called Cotton Fish?

Two words rarely used together: bowfin and morels. It is well known that bowfin is so vilified as table fare (unlike morels) that they are referred to as “cotton fish” due to the belief that they are generally pale in color and mushy.

Proper meat care and preparation pay dividends when it comes to cooking fish and game, and bowfin is no exception.

Their flesh is usually softer because they are often caught in relatively warm water in the dog days of summer. Filets that have been frozen do not keep well; when they come out of the freezer, they thaw into a squishy, cotton-like mass.

It’s important to keep bowfin alive as much as possible before filing, and then immediately prepare it for the table. Regardless of how soft the filets are, they firm up as they heat. A lightly breaded end product rivals pike or walleye.

Bowfin eggs, unlike their primitive counterparts, gars, often considered toxic, are considered a type of caviar, a la “Cajun caviar”.

Why Is the Bowfin So Hated?

Unfortunately, many fishermen dislike bowfin and often kill them when caught. This is due to a misconception that bowfin prey on young game fish that are more desirable for fishermen.

Moreover, there is a lot of confusion between bowfin and snakeheads, which are not native to North American waters and are considered to be invasive species.

Bowfin, on the other hand, is native fish that has been around for a long time and are the only surviving member of the Amiidae family.

While they may not be the most attractive or desirable fish to catch, they play a valuable role in their ecosystem and should not be indiscriminately killed.

It’s important to distinguish between bowfin and snakeheads and to recognize that bowfin is not as destructive or invasive as its non-native counterparts.

Why Do We Need Bowfin?

Bowfins are highly adaptable and tend to thrive in the sluggish, less oxygenated waters of lakes and rivers. As a key predators, they play a crucial role in maintaining the balance of their ecosystem by preying on the most abundant fish species.

This helps to control the population of foraging fish and prevents overpopulation. Despite its unappealing appearance and unremarkable taste, the bowfin is a valuable part of our natural heritage and has been around for millions of years.

While we may not recommend eating this fish, it’s essential to recognize its ecological significance and strive to preserve its existence for many more years to come.

By protecting the bowfin, we are not only conserving a unique species but also safeguarding the delicate balance of our aquatic ecosystems.

Conclusion

While the bowfin fish may not be a popular menu item, it is indeed edible and enjoyed by some as a flavorful delicacy.

With its unique taste and texture, it can be prepared in a variety of ways and is worth trying for those with an adventurous palate.

However, it’s important to keep in mind that the bowfin fish can be difficult to catch and has a lot of bones, so it may not be the easiest fish to prepare.

Dusting clay pigeons is a great way to spend time with your shooting buddies.

Most ranges probably have a trap range, a skeet range and maybe even a sporting clays set-up of some sort. But what about the casual day out at your backyard range? How do you get those clay pigeons sailing through the air so you can smoke them?

Today we’ll take a look at some options that will allow you and your shooting buds to set up a fun clays range for the afternoon.

Types of Throwers

There are really two main types of throwers available. Manual and automatic.

The manual throwers can be as simple as this MTM Clay Target Thrower. If you practice a bit and have someone with a decent arm, this option will work. However, for a better shooting experience let’s stick to the throwers with a spring activated throwing arm.

Manual throwers are classified as “full-cock” or “3/4-cock” mechanisms. The full-cock machines mean you have to manually pull the lever back to reset it against the full force of the spring.

On the other hand, the 3/4-cock machines have a gear or clutch mechanism that only lets the arm travel in one direction and the momentum of the arm partially cocks the machine so you have much less effort required to reset the machine.

Check out this video from Do All Outdoors showing how easy the 3/4-cock traps are to reset.

Got all that? Now we’ll go into the best clay throwers.

1. Do All Outdoors – Backyard Clayhawk 3/4-Cock Trap

This trap is a great entry level 3/4-cock thrower. It has a tripod-type base that can be staked to the ground or mounted on a piece of plywood something else to make it more stable.

The trap can launch clays up to 70 yards and is adjustable up and down and side to side. It can also be configured to launch rabbit targets. These are meant to mimic a bouncing, running rabbit and roll on their edge along the ground.

2. Trius One-Step Trap

If you can’t talk someone into some range time, the One-Step allows the shooter to launch clays and shoot by themselves. This is a full-cock thrower, so the reset effort is a bit more.

However, you can load singles or doubles and also launch high-angle clays. To launch the bird simply step on the lever to release the throwing arm.

3. Do All Full-Cock Competitor Trap

For $29 you can hardly go wrong with this basic trap. The trap allows you to launch singles, stacked doubles and or side-by-side doubles. Clays can be launched up to 55 yards with this little machine. I borrowed my brother-in-law’s Competitor to teach my nephew the basics of shotgun shooting.

By easing up the spring tension a bit you can slow the targets down and allow them to “float” a bit and get new shooters into the groove and learning how to engage moving targets. A great entry level trap.

Note: this trap needs to be staked securely or mounted to something heavy so it doesn’t jump around too much.

Automatic Throwers

When you’re ready to spend more time on the range and want speed up your shooting it’s time to look at getting an automatic trap. These traps will generally be powered by a 12-volt battery and allow you to load 50 or more clay targets in the magazine.

The trap is released remotely by a wired switch or a wireless set-up depending on the model. Most of the remote switches are designed to be foot operated so you can launch targets when shooting by yourself.

The coolest thing about automatic traps is that they are available with options that move side-to-side, up and down or both so you never know exactly how the target will be launched!

4. Champion WheelyBird 2.0

The WheelyBird 2.0 is the upgraded model of the WheelyBird – and the upgrades are nice! The cycle time is only 1.75 seconds and there is now a wireless remote and a foot pedal to allow for more variation and shooting angles.

Best of all, the WheelyBird 2.0 can launch targets up to 75 yards.

5. Do-All Outdoors Fowl Play Automatic Clay Pigeon Skeet Thrower Trap

The Fowl Play trap has a lot of great features for practicing your wing shooting skills. The trap will throw targets up to 55 yards and can be adjusted from 5 to 35 degrees of elevation.

To really add some challenge to your practice just bolt on the Adjustable Wobbler Kit. The Wobbler allows targets to launch from random left to right angles as well as changing the elevation. The Fowl Play trap comes with a 25 foot wired foot pedal, but a wireless upgrade is available.

This is a great thrower, to begin with, and the optional upgrades allow you to continue to improve over time.

What’s your take on it?

Closing Thoughts

If you are an aspiring wing-shooter having your own trap makes a lot of sense. As long as you have a safe area to practice these traps allow you to shoot anytime you want and will likely save you a fair amount of money over time.

If I were to purchase a manual trap today I’d definitely be looking at 3/4-cock models because of their ease of resetting.

I really like the Fowl Play automatic thrower from Do-All Outdoors because as a base model you get everything you need plus the option to upgrade and continue challenging your shooting abilities.

No matter which one you choose, you’re sure to have a blast every time the shooter yells “Pull!”.

Want more shotguns in your life? Check out our 5 Best Home-Defense Tactical Shotguns!

Do you shoot trap? What’s your favorite shotgun? Let us know in the comments! Then check out our Best Trap, Skeep, & Clay Shotguns.

Attention, meat lovers! Want to add a healthy and flavorful twist to your diet? Look no further than the humble deer heart. Packed with nutrients and full of unique taste, this game meat is worth trying. Keep reading to learn about its nutritional benefits, cooking techniques, and how it stacks up against other game meats.

What is Deer (Venison) Heart and How to Prepare it for Cooking?

Deer (Venison) heart is a popular game meat that has become increasingly sought-after in recent years. Not only is it incredibly flavorful, but it’s also surprisingly easy to prepare and cook. In this article, we’ll discuss the basics of deer (venison) heart preparation and provide some tips on how to get the most out of this delicious game meat.

Delicious Recipes Using Deer (Venison) Heart as the Main Ingredient

If you are looking for a unique and delicious way to enjoy deer (venison) hearts, look no further! From stews to tacos, these recipes will make your taste buds happy!

Easy Pan Fried Deer Heart Recipe

Grilled Venison Heart with Peppers and Onions

Deer Heart Recipe (Venison Heart)

MeatEater Recipe: Seared Venison Heart with Whiskey Butter

Quick and Easy Venison Heart – Cast Iron Recipes

Health Benefits of Eating Deer (Venison) Heart

Eating it can be a great way to add some extra nutrition to your diet. It is packed with essential vitamins and minerals, such as iron, zinc, and Vitamin B12. It is also a great source of protein, which can help you maintain strong muscles and bones. Additionally, it contains Omega-3 fatty acids which are beneficial for your overall health. Eating deer heart regularly can help reduce inflammation in the body and improve cardiovascular health.

How healthy is eating deer (venison) heart?

Deer (venison) heart is a lean protein source that is low in fat and high in nutrients such as iron, vitamin B12, and zinc. It is also a good source of CoQ10, an antioxidant that is important for heart health. Eating it can be a healthy addition to your diet, as long as it is cooked properly and consumed in moderation.

Tips & Tricks for Cooking with Deer (Venison) Heart

Cooking with deer (venison)heart can be a daunting task for the novice chef. However, with a few simple tips and tricks, you can easily create delicious dishes that will impress your family and friends. Here are the best methods that will make your meals tastier and healthier.

Cooking with venison heart tips and tricks:

Do you need to soak a deer heart before cooking?

Yes, it is recommended to soak a deer heart in salt water for at least 2 hours before cooking to remove any blood or gamey taste. After soaking, you can prepare the heart using various cooking methods such as grilling, roasting, or slow cooking.

What’s the best way to eat deer (venison) heart?

One popular way to cook deer heart is to marinate it overnight in a mixture of olive oil, red wine vinegar, garlic, and herbs. Then, slice the heart thinly and grill or pan-fry it until it is cooked to your liking. Serve with a side of roasted vegetables or a salad for a delicious and nutritious meal.

Can you eat a raw deer heart?

While some people may choose to eat raw deer heart, it is not recommended. It is important to properly cook the heart to a safe internal temperature of 160°F. There are many delicious ways to prepare deer heart, including grilling, roasting, or slow-cooking it in a stew.

Should I brine the deer heart?

It is recommended to brine the deer heart before cooking it to help tenderize the meat and remove any gamey taste. A simple brine can be made with water, salt, sugar, and any desired herbs or spices. Brine the heart for at least 4 hours before cooking for the best results.

Nutritional Information of Deer (Venison) Heart

Deer (venison) heart is an excellent source of essential vitamins and minerals. It is a lean protein source that is low in fat and high in nutrients such as iron, vitamin B12, and zinc. Additionally, it contains Omega-3 fatty acids, which are beneficial for your overall health. Eating deer heart regularly can help reduce inflammation in the body and improve cardiovascular health.

Different Cooking Methods for Deer (Venison) Heart

There are several cooking methods that you can use to prepare deer (venison) heart. One of the most popular methods is grilling. To grill deer heart, first, you need to clean it thoroughly and remove any excess fat. Then, slice the heart into thin strips and marinate it for a few hours before grilling it over medium-high heat for a few minutes on each side.

Another popular method is slow-cooking. Slow-cooking deer heart can make it more tender and flavorful. To slow-cook deer heart, first, sear it in a pan to lock in the flavor, then place it in a slow cooker with vegetables and broth and let it cook on low for several hours.

You can also roast deer heart in the oven. To do this, first, preheat the oven to 375°F, then season the heart with salt, pepper, and herbs of your choice. Roast the heart in the oven for 15-20 minutes, or until it is cooked to your liking.

Marinating and Seasoning Techniques for Deer (Venison) Heart

Marinating and seasoning deer (venison) heart is crucial to ensure that it is flavorful and tender. A simple marinade can be made with olive oil, red wine vinegar, garlic, and herbs of your choice. Marinate the deer heart for at least 2 hours before cooking it to allow the flavors to penetrate the meat fully.

Seasoning deer heart is also essential. You can season it with salt, pepper, and herbs of your choice, such as thyme or rosemary, to enhance its natural flavor. You can also add a bit of honey or maple syrup for a sweet and savory flavor.

Comparison of Deer (Venison) Heart to Other Game Meats

Deer (venison) heart is just one of many types of game meat available. Compared to other game meats, such as elk, moose, and bison, deer heart is a leaner protein source. It is also lower in fat than beef and pork, making it a healthier alternative. In terms of flavor, deer heart has a mild, slightly gamey taste that is unique to game meat. However, it is less gamey than other game meats, making it a great option for those who are new to game meat.

Start Enjoying the Flavorful Taste of Deer (Venison) Heart Today!

Have you ever wanted to add a unique flavor to your meals? Not only are they delicious, but they are also packed with essential vitamins and minerals. With deer heart, you can enjoy the taste of game meat without having to go hunting for it. Start enjoying the flavorful taste today and experience a unique culinary adventure!

by Anietra Hamper

A guide to targeting catfish during the winter freeze.

Fishing guide Darren Troseth of 3 Rivers Fishing Adventures in Minnesota has targeted catfish on rivers in the St. Cloud area for several decades. In 2007 he discovered the thrill of targeting catfish through the ice, mostly out of necessity since open water is scarce during Minnesota’s brutal winter months.

“Compared to all other fish of the same size, catfish will put up just as good or better of a fight than anything else in the winter so I was drawn to them,” said Troseth.

Troseth carefully targets specific waterways where he knows there are large populations of catfish and he only goes after channel catfish as they are the most active. He seeks out bodies of water that are the warmest in the winter to find the deeper holes and areas with current. Since the ideal spots for catfish have the most inconsistent ice thickness safety is his top concern.

“Safety is very important, especially in areas of moving current and early/late ice. Basic knowledge of how ice forms and paying attention to recent weather patterns need to be part of the routine. People should always be using a spud bar to check ice thickness and wear safety picks, especially during early ice. A floatation type suit such as the Striker Ice Suit is a great idea too,” said Troseth.

The sluggish bottom-feeders are finicky when it comes to surviving the winter. They mostly lay low until spring so they will test your patience and skills. You significantly increase your chances of a bite if you know where to look and how to prepare. Here is some of the top advice for experiencing the fun and unpredictable surprise of ice fishing that can not only step up your catfishing game but change it entirely.

Understand catfish winter behavior Catfish look for warmer water in the winter months so they are deeper (20-feet deep in many cases). Look for places with a soft bottom and structure or deep slow-moving water where catfish cluster and move together.

Location

Start with the most obvious places such as deep holes and breaks in the water. If you are fishing the tributaries off of a major river you want to target the outside bends of creek channels in 15-25 feet of water.

Water column Just because catfish migrate to deeper water doesn’t mean they are on the bottom. The feeders will suspend above the bottom from three-feet to 10-feet. Getting the bait in this “strike zone” is imperative. Anywhere above or below and the bite won’t happen. In the winter catfish are less motivated to go after food and have a slower metabolism so bait has to be presented properly.

Finding the fish If the fish are not showing on the sonar, keep moving to areas of current such as the narrows between islands or bridges. Since catfish move in schools, they should be visible. The low light periods between 4-8 p.m. are best.

Bait Don’t be afraid to use non-traditional baits and recharge often (at least once an hour) to maximize the scent.

“Some of our best nights have been using a small piece of chicken liver,” said Troseth. “I have also found that using a “glow” jig DOES help with the bite. Glow red and green are my favorites.”

Experimentation Winter fishing requires experimentation. If you can see the catfish on the fish finder but they are not biting then you need to change something. You can try different depth, change the bait, or try movement in the presentation.

Tackle A combination of tip-ups and a medium to heavy rod works well for channel catfish or you can use an automatic fisherman device. The ideal line is 8-10 pound ice braid and a fishing leader. As for hooks, use a thick single wire hook since most ice fishing spoons are not made for the strong jaws and soft lips of catfish.

Presentation Very rarely will winter cats just come up and smack your bait. Cold water cats have a tendency to “taste” the bait and swim around it. They may hit it with their whiskers, circle around it some more and even go vertical by coming up from underneath to push it up. Try jigging a little to get their attention but do not overdo it or you will scare them.

Assess the bite Pay close attention to your bite detection. The majority of cold water cats are light biters. Sometimes they will barely pull a float under or even move a spring bobber during the winter.

Final thoughts Some of the best ice catfishing happens on natural lakes and rivers in states with the biggest freeze like Minnesota, Wisconsin, North Dakota, and Iowa. With a little practice and consulting with locals in the area, ice fishing for catfish can open up a whole new direction for catfish anglers.

Editors Note: For a detailed primer on ice fishing in general visit the OnTrack Fishing site.

Underwater cameras have been used in commercial fishing for decades, primarily as a means of providing visual confirmation for sonar data or environmental observations. However, these commercial units were large, heavy, expensive, and very limited in their capabilities. Since most open water, especially ocean water, is opaque due to suspended particles and living organisms, the ability of cameras to provide useful information is limited. Underwater cameras were used by the commercial fishing industry to confirm the presence of underwater obstacles that would wreck ships or foul nets.

The advent of small, inexpensive digital cameras in the late 90s made it possible for sport fishermen to begin purchasing and using such cameras. Smaller and with simpler options than those on the large commercial units, these underwater cameras have evolved to be inexpensive, easy to deploy, and capable of functioning without being continuously connected to a boat’s power system or on-shore power source.

Underwater Cameras for Ice Fishing

While they have become popular with lake and littoral fishermen who want to observe underwater hazards and fish populations to better understand their favorite fishing spot, underwater cameras have proven to be the most useful to ice fishermen. Since ice fishermen must put time and effort into each hole they drill and each line they drop, knowing exactly what is below before they drop their lines is crucial. The use of underwater cameras is especially useful in that the cameras are designed with the ability to fit into holes much smaller than is required for fishing. This means that small “test holes” can be drilled to see if an area is worth fishing before fishermen drop their lines. Ice fishermen can also see much further underwater than those who are fishing in active waters, since the lack of wave action and cold water combine to make the water extremely clear, enabling cameras with lights to show off a very large area and even highlight fish as they wait out the winter.

Underwater cameras are becoming a necessary piece of equipment for any serious ice fisherman, especially those who want to optimize their catch. Such cameras can also prevent a fisherman from spending hours out on the ice dropping lines where there are no fish, as well as alert them to the presence of obstacles and hazards that would snag and ruin their lines. They are easy to carry and can be set up in seconds, enabling fishermen to quickly drill a test hole, take a look around, and then either expand or abandon the hole based on what he sees.

What’s Important in an Underwater Camera

This doesn’t mean that all underwater cameras are made equal, nor that fishermen can rely on getting a good one without learning anything about them. Many units are too cheap or too simple to be useful or are ill suited to the extreme weather conditions inherent in ice fishing. So what should you look for? The first thing would be insulation of some sort for the unit itself and especially the battery. LiPo batteries that get too cold can have water condense inside of them, causing them to short out and catch fire, so it’s important to keep them reasonably warm. Fortunately, they produce their own heat when running, so as long as the camera has insulation around the battery, it will function properly at cold temperatures.

Second, the line and camera must be insulated with cold-tolerant materials which will not become brittle when exposed to below freezing temperatures. Natural rubber needs to be thus avoided, and all of the waterproofing on the unit needs to be made of silicone or other similar synthetic materials. Third, the camera needs to have a large camera aperture and large pixel resolution. Be aware too that water largely blocks infrared light, and so infra-red cameras won’t be able to see as far as those which focus on visible light, especially in the blue end of the spectrum. Lastly, the camera needs to have an IP68 rating. This means that the camera has been developed specifically to be immersed in the water below one meter (a little more than a yard) and will not fail if thus immersed.

Which Underwater Camera to Choose

Fortunately, there are several affordable cameras on the market which meet all of these requirements.

1. Marcum VS485C

The Marcum VS485C is a top-of-the-line unit specifically intended for ice fishing, as is indicated by its insulated carrying bag and handle. Even the sun shield is optimized for dealing with the glare that comes off of white snow, which is an excellent feature that helps the 7″ screen to be very visible even on cloudless winter days. The system uses large, easy-to-press buttons instead of a touch screen, and has been engineered with winter gloves in mind. The 800×480 resolution picture is adequate for the task at hand, and the screen is made by Sony, and thus subject to Sony’s stringent quality standards. The camera is also produced by Sony and has the necessary IP68 rating.

In addition to a wide-spectrum light, which has sufficient power to cut through all but the cloudiest lakes, the Marcum VS485C has multiple fin stabilizers to prevent both horizontal and vertical movement. Since most units only have one vertical fin to prevent spinning, instead relying on tension from the camera line to prevent vertical motion, the Marcum VS485C offers a much more stable picture than other units. The 50-foot cable is specifically engineered to be cold-water resistant and can transmit in both color and black-and-white. It’s this last feature that is of most use to ice fishermen since, in the low light of frozen lakes, the increased contrast of black-and-white transmissions can make clear what would otherwise be difficult to distinguish. Additionally, it has “Darkwater” LED lighting options, in addition to the broad-spectrum option, which provides better illumination in deep water. This is achieved by broadcasting more light in the blue spectrum, then interpreting it in black-and-white, to produce as high a contrast image as possible.

2. Vexilar FS800 Fish Scout

The Vexilar FS800 Fish Scout is a high-end unit specifically engineered for cold weather, although it is also intended to be smaller, lighter and more portable than other units. Like most high-end units it is built around Sony technology, with both the screen and camera being Sony commercial units. It can function at up to -22F, meaning that it should be more than adequate for most ice-fishing situations, although it may be necessary to operate it within a shelter on the coldest days. The screen displays in 480 x 234 pixels, which is adequate for the 7″ screen, although some fishermen may find it to be a bit low to capture some details if the light is good enough to illuminate them. The installed light on the camera has a broad spectrum beam, suitable for cutting through the murkiest water. The camera has only one stabilization fin, but the wide, flat design is intended to keep it from tilting or twisting horizontally and has ballast to help it remain properly aligned.

The 50-foot cable is more than adequate for most lakes, since depth below 50 feet is usually too opaque, even with artificial light, to be seen through. The a-SI TFT active matrix display is bright and accurate, although with only 420 lines of resolution some details may be obscured. Still, in the low-light environment inherent in ice fishing, much of the detail will be lost simply by not having enough light, even with artificial lights mounted on the unit. The Sony Super HAD CCD can see in light as dim as .01 Lux, enabling it to function even in very dark waters. Additionally, with a battery that can function for up to nine hours on a charge, the Vexilar FS800 Fish Scout is ideal for ice fishermen who want to wander far from shore or shelter in search of good fishing spots, since it will remain warm, functioning, and charged the entire time. It also has large buttons, ideal for operating when wearing gloves.

3. Aqua-Vu AV715c

The Aqua-Vu AV715c is primarily focused for use in warm water. However, it is capable of functioning in ice fishing conditions, especially when used in a shelter. Due to having less insulation than other units, it is necessary to keep it insulated or at least powered on during cold weather operation, however, the camera can handle up to -22F, as can the cable, thus eliminating any worries about it being damaged by cold weather conditions. The onboard battery comes with battery management software designed to extend life as long as possible, enabling it to function for up to 12 hours under ideal conditions. The entire unit is waterproof and designed to withstand submersion, and in addition to its carrying case, it can fit perfectly into a standard five-gallon bucket, making it easy to pack and carry. The unit also has its own handle, and the cable winds around the base of the unit, helping to keep it tidy and prevent it from being damaged.

The Aqua-Vu AV715c has a standard RCA out. Therefore, if you have a TV in your shelter, you can display the image on a screen bigger and brighter than the provided 7″ screen, although it is more than adequate for most situations. The camera is capable of detecting light in a broad spectrum and has low-light sensing technology, as well as infrared technology, however, it is primarily intended for situations with some natural light. The stabilization fin doubles as a means of hanging the camera by different angles thanks to wire clips built into its sides. The system uses buttons rather than a touch screen, making it easy to operate when wearing gloves.

4. Wosports Underwater Fishing Camera

The Wosports Underwater Fishing Camera is intended to be an all-purpose, entry-level model intended for use by those who want something that will be simple and get the job done while remaining as affordable as possible. As such, its components and insulation are not as robust as other models, but they are more than adequate for most ice-fishing situations. The camera has full IP68 waterproofing. However, the display and battery are only waterproof when the box is sealed and closed, meaning it’s a good idea to keep this unit away from the hole when in use. Nonetheless, with 50 feet of cable, this should not be a problem. The 7″ screen is very clear, displaying in a full 1000 lines, and has low-power usage, enabling the camera to run for up to eight hours on a charge. The push-button operation is possible with gloves, but small buttons mean it may be easier inside the shelter without gloves.

The camera provided is adequate for most lighting situations, especially with 12 LED lights included, but it lacks stabilization and fishermen will need to be dependent on tension from the camera wire to produce a steady image. Additionally, the camera has only one mounting point for the wire, on the rear, forcing some quick fishermen’s knots with the wire to hang it in a horizontal position. Interestingly, the unit also contains an SD Card Slot for recording directly on the device, enabling fishermen to easily record what they see for later viewing or uploading online. The camera has a slightly bowed 92-degree viewing angle, enabling fishermen to see more at the cost of having the image slightly distorted.

The Googan Squad Fishing line is finally here! – Cast further, fish longer, and feel more confident in every cast you take knowing that you’re spooled up with the best line in the biz created by the legendary Googan Squad.Our team, the Googan Squad, and a high-end line manufacturer worked tirelessly to create what is possibly the best-valued fishing line on the market today. Learn how, when, and, why to effectively fish with all three types of the Googan Squad Fishing Line.

Googan Squad 8x Braided Line

15lb – Great for finesse tactics – shaky heads, drop shot, small swimbaits. Can be used to catch panfish, walleye, and great for trolling30lb – Best for walk-the-dog topwaters, swim jigs and chatterbaits. Can also be used for trolling50lb – Ideal for flippin’, froggin’, and big game fishin’BUY GOOGAN SQUAD 8X BRAID

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Googan Squad Flurocarbon

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Googan Squad Monofilament

6lb – Great for panfish and trout. Excels on smaller size spinning reels. Perfect for float fishing, spinners, small cranks, and live bait. Ultralight techniques.8lb – All around solid line. Great for multi-species angling. Strong enough for small Texas rigs, small enough for float fishing and other light options.12lb – Great option for pond fishing. Texas rigs, soft plastic jerkbaits, poppers, jigs, and lots of other typical bass fishing techniques.BUY GOOGAN SQUAD MONOFILAMENT

Start catching more mondos with the Googan Squad mono! The affordable and versatile monofilament line is ideal for any bass or multi-species angler. The added stretch from monofilament helps absorb the shock while fighting a fish which makes the Googan Squad Monofilament a solid choice when fishing any treble hook baits.In addition to being deadly for largiesand smallies, this monofilament will help you fool trout, walleye, panfish and more. Available in 3 lines sizes, the Googan Squad Monofilament is the best value of all the three line options. Each spool holds 330 yards which should be enough to fill 2-3 of your reels.

Googan Squad Line FAQ:

Why Did The Googan Squad Create Their Own Line?The Googans and the Catch Co wanted a high-end fishing line that they could fish with but also put their name behind and bring to market. After countless hours of product development, both teams landed on a truly special product, resulting in Googan Squad Fishing Line.Why Is