Field Labrador is another way to describe a working, or American-type, Labrador. The term field Labrador is used because these Labs are most often seen out working in the field on a hunt. And that’s where this type of Labrador is bred to excel. The better known name American Lab is used because they were developed in the United States. Of course, that doesn’t mean you won’t meet them in other areas of the world today, or that every Lab you meet in America is necessarily American-type!

Field Labs are taller and longer than English, or show-type, Labs. Some field Labs and their owners take part in field trials, and earn championship titles which can be included on their pedigree.

Different Types Of Labrador

There is only one Labrador Retriever breed. But selective mating choices in different breeding lines have gradually created two distinct types of Lab. This is frequently confusing for prospective owners researching their first Lab. Not least because each type of Lab is known by multiple names! The two Labrador types are:

1. English Labradors, also known as show Labradors, or bench Labradors (after the show bench)
2. and American Labradors, also known as working Labradors, or field Labradors.

How Does A Field Lab Compare To A Show Lab?

So how can you tell a American-type field Lab and an English-type show Lab apart? Well, there are tell tale differences in the way they look, and also in their temperaments. They can seem subtle at first, but if you’re lucky enough to meet a lot of Labs, you’ll soon discover that you can tell them apart quickly – like meeting human twins.

Field Labrador Looks

Field Labs are taller, longer, leaner, and more athletic looking than show Labs. Front-ways on, their face and neck tend to look more slender and elongated. Of course, these things are all relative, and the field Lab is still a robust and sturdy looking dog! At the back, working lines are increasingly losing the classic Labrador otter tail too, in favor of a much slimmer tail.

By comparison, show Labs are bred to exemplify the physical description in the breed standard, which is shorter, stockier, and still in possession of a wide-based otter tail. The field Lab’s drift in appearance from the breed standard is an indirect result of basing mating decisions primarily on working ability rather than looks. But field Labs which don’t perfectly match the physical description in the breed standard are still purebred Labs, if they have the pedigree to prove it.

Field Labrador Temperament

All Labs are energetic, but field Labs have more stamina than show Labs, and need more daily exercise. Field Lab owners also tend to believe that their dogs are smarter than show Labs, and quicker to learn new commands. They usually have greater confidence working at a distance from their handler. People looking for working Labs value these qualities when it comes to long days retrieving on game shoots. But outside of a working context they can also make field Labs seem stubborn compared to show Labradors. But it’s simply that they find making their own decisions rather rewarding!

Field Lab owners have to make more effort to be sufficiently fun, stimulating and rewarding, that their dog will always be more interested in looking to them for cues, than making up their own mind about what to do next. Which is why many people think that modern field Labs are great working dogs, but the comparatively sedate modern show Lab makes a better family pet.

Field Labs And Field Trials

Field Labs are smart, enthusiastic and tireless. Even if they’re not going to work in the traditional sense, most owners participate in agility, scentwork, and retrieving activities with their field Lab. These give them an outlet for their energy and ability.

One of the most popular activities for working field Labs and amateur field Labs alike are field trials. Field trials replicate all the requirements of a day out on a hunt – following commands from a distance, and completing retrieves on land and from water, under different levels of distraction. They’re co-ordinated and judged by kennel clubs. Dogs who enjoy success in several field trials can earn titles to include alongside their name on the kennel club’s pedigree record.

U.S. Field Labrador Titles

U.S. field Labrador titles are awarded by the American Kennel Club (AKC). There are two possible titles to work towards: Field Champion and Amateur Field Trial Champion. Labs with these titles can have the prefix FC or AFC placed before their name on their pedigree.

U.K. Field Labrador Titles

In the UK the only field trial title is Field Trial Champion. Dogs with field trial champion status can have the letters FTCh placed by their name on their Kennel Club pedigree. In theory, it’s also possible for working Labs in the U.K. to hold the title of Dual Champion (DC). This is automatically awarded to dogs who achieve both Field Trial Champion and Show Champion Titles. However, the difference between field- and show-type Labradors is now so great that it’s been many decades since one held the title of Dual Champion.

Alternatives To The U.K. Field Trial Champion Title

If you’re looking for a litter of working Labs in the U.K., you might also come across dogs described as FTW. This stands for Field Trial Winner. It’s not an official title, but it indicates that a dog has completed some of the milestones on the way to becoming a Field Trial Champion.

UK field Labs can also take part in gundog working tests organized by The Gundog Club. These graded tests are a fun way for working and non-working Labs to develop the skills they were bred for and have fun together. Certificates from these tests aren’t entered on a dog’s pedigree. But they’re an enjoyable entry point to field trials for people with Labradors from working lines.

Australian Field Labrador Titles

In Australia, the field Labrador titles are Novice Retrieving Ability, and Open Retriever Ability. These titles are earned by completing the relevant Retrieving Ability Test For Gundogs, administered by the Australian National Kennel Council.

The Significance Of Field Labrador Titles

Field titles are an indicator of excellent field work in retriever breeds. Labradors don’t have to be field Labs to secure them – English or show type Labs can work towards them too. The judging criteria are intended to cover innate qualities of well-bred working retrievers, and learned abilities of well trained dogs and accomplished handlers.

If you’re looking for a field Labrador because you want to work with them, or participate in field trials yourself, then looking for litters with field trial champion parents is a good way to set yourself up for success. Even as an amateur, if you catch the field trial bug, putting yourself forward for titles is a fun way to challenge yourself and celebrate you and your Lab’s progress. But it doesn’t matter if you ultimately choose to enjoy the training, but forego the assessments.

Earning Field Labrador Titles

If field trials are something you’re interested in doing with your Lab, visit your regional kennel club website and look for local events to attend as a spectator first.

Organisers are usually happy and enthusiastic to show you what they’re all about and encourage new people to get involved! Kennel Clubs also run training courses to prepare new competitors for what to expect. Don’t forget that in the U.K. the Gundog Club is also a great place to start learning these skills. Your trainer will help you judge when you’re ready to start entering field trials.

Field Labradors – Summary

Field Labrador is simply another term for an American or working type Lab. Unsurprisingly, field Labs are best known for their field work, but field Labs and show Labs can both participate in gundog training, and both compete for field titles. These activities are fun ways to engage a Labrador in the kind of work he was bred for. He gets the satisfaction of doing what he was meant to do, and you get the pleasure of watching him at his finest!

Do You Have A Field Labrador?

Do they hold any field titles, or have you considered working towards them? Let us know in the comments box down below!

References And Further Resources

American Kennel Club

The Kennel Club

The Australian National Kennel Council

Wild turkeys are interesting creatures with unique physical characteristics like the beard and spurs. If you’ve wondered about the makeup and purpose of beards and spurs, keep reading. You’ll soon find answers.

Turkey Beards

If you’ve seen a male wild turkey, you likely noticed a shock of long, dark, fibrous bristles hanging from its breast plumage. That’s called a beard, and it’s made of modified feathers. Male turkeys, called gobblers – and some female turkeys, called hens – have beards. Only about 10 to 20 percent of hens grow beards, and it’s likely a genetic mutation, according to Sciencing.com.

Beard Function

The beard’s function is not known with certainty, but it might influence mate selection by hens. According to the National Wild Turkey Federation’s website, longer beards signify older, healthier males and thus superior mates.

Beard Length

Beards begin growing when turkeys are about 5 months old, and keep growing 4 to 5 inches annually. According to Turkey & Turkey Hunting magazine, a 2-year-old gobbler’s beard usually measures 8 to 10 inches. When it’s 3 years old, a gobbler’s beard will have grown about 14 inches. However, few toms have beards that long because bristles wear off at the tip as the beard grows.

But not all beards break or wear off. In a recent Realtree.com article by Steve Hickoff, Top 5 Longest Wild Turkey Subspecies Beards, this former NWTF staffer listed the longest beards on record for each turkey subspecies:

– Easterns: 22.5 inches, shot in Bowie, Texas.

– Osceolas: 19.125 inches, shot in Lafayette, Florida.

– Rio Grandes: 15.375 inches, shot in Beckham, Oklahoma.

– Gould’s: 14.0625 inches, shot in Canatlán Durango, Mexico.

– Merriam’s: 13.875 inches, shot in Brown, Nebraska.

On average, Eastern wild turkeys have the longest beards of all subspecies, while the Merriam’s has the shortest.

Number of Beards

Turkeys can also sport more than one beard. The NWTF’s Wild Turkey Records show Tyler Blake Mumpower shot an Eastern turkey with 13 beards in Spring 2017 in Pennsylvania; and Kooper Bays shot an Eastern turkey with 10 beards in 2015 in Missouri. It’s far more common, however, to bag birds with two or three beards.

Turkey Spurs

A spur is a long talon or claw on the back of a turkey’s leg, about 2 inches above the foot. Spurs are made of smooth, shiny keratin, and range in color from black, gray or pink. Some spurs even look pearlescent, while others are tipped with dark tones, according to Hickoff’s Realtree.com article, Turkey Spurs are Like Antlers to a Deer Hunter.

The Spur’s Function

Spurs help gobblers establish dominance, according to the NWTF’s website. Older, more dominant birds have the longest and sharpest spurs, which helps them fend off younger turkeys when vying for breeding rights.

Spur Length

Both sexes are born with small button spurs, but the spur keeps growing after birth in males. Turkeys with spurs less than a half-inch long are likely 1-year-old jakes, while turkeys with spurs measuring a half-inch to 1 inch are typically 2-year-old gobblers. Spurs on 2-year-olds tend to have blunt tips. After age 2, spurs grow slowly. Gobblers 3 or older wield sharp, curved spurs that are slightly hooked.

Although spur length and sharpness can help hunters estimate a turkey’s age, they’re not sure bets. Like beards, spurs can break or wear down. The Wild Turkey Zone website reports that Osceolas usually have the longest spurs of the five American subspecies, mostly because they generally live in swampy areas with soft dirt. In contrast, Merriam’s turkeys live in rocky, mountainous areas, so their spurs are typically shorter from continuous wear and tear on hard surfaces.

Final Thoughts

Hunters often consider turkey beards and spurs – no matter their size – as trophies, and collect them as keepsakes or display them with fan mounts. And because many states let hunters shoot bearded hens, beards and spurs often help hunters determine which turkeys are legal targets from afar.

Are you ready to start your own turkey hunting adventures? Prepare for your first turkey hunt by visiting an archery shop to pick up the necessary gear and supplies.

You can find Native American artifacts here if you know where to go and what to look for.

Story + Artwork by Michele Roldán-Shaw

It took me a few years to find my prize spearpoint. I’d put in the time ambling along dirt roads — especially after a rain — and combing freshly ploughed fields, as my old-timer informants advised. They made it seem like finding artifacts around here was easy, and certainly the points and potsherds strewn around their homes bore this out. Yet somehow for all my wanderings I never managed to find more than a few broken flint chips.

Until my 24th birthday. I was on a little solo expedition near the Donnelly Wildlife Management Area, hiking deep in the heart of extensive dirt tracks that crisscross woods and wetlands. The road looked like it had turned to a mud bog in summer rains, then gotten baked dry by a merciless sun until it split into a network of cracks — prime hunting ground for arrowheads. They get unearthed this way and sometimes conveniently display themselves on little raised pedestals after all the mud has washed off around them. Yet I wasn’t actively looking that day, just walking and talking on my cell phone, when suddenly I happened to glance down and there was a beautiful 3-inch-long spearhead! It had a light buff color with blushes of rich ochre and was museum quality with only the tiniest chip missing from the point. I couldn’t believe it. A short distance away I found a nice white arrowhead and another slate gray point with the butt end broken off. I’ve never found another arrowhead since.

America has been home to human beings for millennia. But exactly how many? It was long thought that the first people arrived 13,000 years ago, yet in recent years that date has been pushed further and further back. South Carolina made a memorable contribution to the debate when archeologists at the Topper Site, an ancient chert quarry on the banks of the Savannah River in Allendale County, announced compelling evidence of human activity dating back 50,000 years. As with any sensational new finding in the scientific community, it caused international controversy and is still disputed today.

Here in the Lowcountry Native inhabitants were laid back seafood eaters, as their old middens of oyster, mussel and clam shells attest. But they also enjoyed an abundance of wild game: deer, rabbit, coon, squirrel, quail, wild turkey, waterfowl, even bear and bison that once roamed this far east. The land we now stand on has been littered with projectile points. Big spearheads are impressive, but I find the tiny “bird points” most fascinating because of their minute size and the skill it must have taken to manufacture them. I always thought that bird point referred to the intended prey; after all, birds are small, so the arrowhead should be too, right? But in fact these beautiful little killers were meant to take down big game (or human enemies!) as their small size made them deadlier by increasing the speed of the projectile.

An arrowhead found locally might be more than 10,000 years old, which is exciting to ponder. A less happy thought is what happened to the descendants of those people: genocide, displacement, decimation by disease, attempted erasure from the collective culture. We can’t change the past — but we can honor those whose mere continued presence bears testament to the strength of their people. According to a 2016 study, 13,000 Native Americans live in South Carolina. Of the 29 tribes thought to have been living here at the time of European contact, just 10 are currently recognized by the state government, and only one has federal recognition. But indigenous people are still here. They are not merely an ancient history of arrowheads, potsherds and middens. They are the original Americans, and they deserve the dignity of acknowledgment.

Sharp points

The best places to look: dirt roads, plowed fields, eroding banks

If you find one: visit projectilepoints.net to identify the type

Worth a trip: the Smithsonian Museum of the American Indian in Washington, D.C., which has a gorgeous collection of hundreds of arrow and spearpoints arrayed in an artful swirl

Contemporary tribes in South Carolina: Pee Dee, Waccamaw, Catawba, Cherokee, Edisto, Santee, Sumter, Natchez, Yamasee, Chicora

When you entice one to step in the 4-inch circle of earth you prepared, there are not too many other feelings of accomplishment that compare to trapping bobcats.

Plus, with bobcat pelt prices staying consistently high, the full wallet at the end of the process is pretty satisfying too.

I did not include the number one most well-known trapping tip, just because everybody should know it: set on sign.

Here are nine additional tips I’ve picked up over the years, mostly from trapping with and observing some truly talented Wyoming bobcat trappers.

They’re Just Big Cats, So Observe Small Ones

An old timer told me this: “Cats are cats, whether they’re de-clawed house cats or mountain lions. These critters are carnivores. They all hunt and are attracted to the same sense triggers.” He advised me to observe “domesticated” house/barn cats whenever possible. You will likely notice many parallels in bobcat populations that will make it much easier to lure one into your coil spring, foothold traps, or cage trap.

Visual Attraction

Just like a house cat will stalk and pounce at a red laser light or a piece of string that you are wiggling, bobcats can’t hardly resist investigating moving objects they can’t immediately identify. Near each bobcat set, you should place some type of visual attraction.

One of my favorite techniques is to hammer a masonry nail into a rock wall near the set. Wrap a length of baling wire on the nail and protrude it about a foot straight out from the wall. At the end of the wire, bend a loop. Take a second small length of wire and loop the end through the first loop, so that the wire hangs loosely straight down. On the end of the second wire, attach something shiny and reflective. I’ve found silver Christmas garland or aluminum foil works well. Just make sure to check your local trapping regulations to make sure what you are doing is legal first.

The bobcats will see the reflection first, then notice the movement in the wind. As they curiously approach the movement from the bush, they will then pick up the scent of the bait – and hopefully move into the set.

Double Up the Springs

Use #10 traps for bobcat, but install a second set of springs. This will ensure the bobcat will not be able to pull out. Plus, cats paws are extremely sensitive, so, the more pressure on the paw, the less the bobcat will try to pull out.

Use Peat Moss

Because fur trapping is a winter pursuit, the temperature will more than likely be below freezing the majority of the time. Since the traps are buried in the ground, moisture from temperature changes can freeze the traps open.

The best way to avert this situation is to cover the trap with a layer of peat moss prior to sifting natural dirt over the trap. The organic materials within the peat moss emit methane, which when released, is warm. This will keep the trap from freezing up.

Cut Off a Paw

This is good trick for both bobcats as well as coyote. Cut off and preserve one of the front paws. Attach the paw to the end of a broom handle (cut in half) or a short stick. After you make your trap set and you have sifted the dirt over the trap to look completely natural, CAREFULLY and gently make a paw print directly over the trap pan.

Bobcats, especially big toms, are smart, and they instinctively know that if another bobcat has stepped in a certain spot, it must be safe to also step there.

Rocks/Ledges

When scouting a bobcat trapping location, always start with rock ledges. That’s where they live, especially in the Western states of America.

Rock ledges give bobcats a higher perspective to see prey below as well as affords them an extra level of protection from larger predators. First look for rock ledges and outcroppings, then look for sign – prints or scat. Those are all good indicators that you’re amongst good set locations.

Don’t Piss

This tip applies to bobcat hunting too and is a good rule of thumb for any furbearer you may target. Do not answer the call of nature where you hope to ambush one of these big cats. They have a great sense of small and you can ruin an entire area – no matter how catty it is – by urinating within your bobcat trap zone. Pee at the truck before you venture into your trapline, and hold it until you get out.

Don’t Disturb the Landscape

Disturbed landscape is another warning sign to bobcats. If you accidentally turn over a large rock, return it to it’s original position. Cover your tracks as you back away from your sets.

Cats Wander, Dogs Go Straight

In areas where bobcats and coyote share the landscape, a good rule of thumb when identifying animal tracks from a distance is that bobcats and lynx like to move in a serpentine pattern while coyotes tend to move in straight lines. Once you know this, it can make snaring your target species a whole lot easier if legal.

I just wrote 10 tips and realized I didn’t even get to choking trails into sets or bobcat bait. That will be for a future article.

Happy trapping!

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Check out this video to learn how to manage your small track of land to bag your trophy buck.

ACCESS OPTION 1

Public land is certainly an option and there have been numerous trophy bucks taken off public land in Kentucky. One place to consider is Rockcastle River Wildlife Management Area (WMA) because the KDFWR just acquired it in 2016. Prior to that, it was private land and had developed a fairly abundant deer population because the former owners, and perhaps even adjacent property owners, either did not allow it to be hunted at all or permitted only “light” hunting. So, in theory at least, there could still be an older-than-average antlered bucks on the site. Also, since much of the area is reclaimed surface-mined coal land and because at least one or more adjacent landowners grow wildlife food plots on their property, the supply of herbaceous or early successional deer forage in the area should be quite high.

Other options include Daniel Boone National Forest property in Pulaski County, some of which adjoins Rockcastle River WMA, and portions of Lake Cumberland WMA that lie in Pulaski and Wayne counties.

Yancy suggested, “Those interested in deer hunting on Lake Cumberland WMA should consider using a boat to get on portions of the area that are not accessible via public roads; just be sure to inquire in advance with the Army Corps of Engineers’ Lake Manager’s Office in Somerset, Kentucky to determine whether potential hunting locations will be boat-accessible at winter pool lake levels.”

ACCESS OPTION 2

Leasing has dramatically changed the landscape of hunting across the country. Although personally, I wish it had never come to the point it is now, the reality is that if one wants to hunt quality private land, the options are limited. It typically must be owned either by the hunter, a relative or close friend or it must be leased. The days of knocking on a stranger’s door and getting permission to hunt are, for the most part, a thing of the past.

There are lots of options for finding a lease, however. Individuals with property to lease often advertise in local want ad papers, on Facebook or sometimes Craigslist. Hunt clubs do the same thing.

Hunt clubs are generally comprised of several members who divide the cost of leasing land, thereby making it more affordable to rent large tracts of quality property. When a member drops out, these clubs often advertise to find a replacement. If you to decide to join a hunt club, be prepared to adhere to a set of custom hunt rules for the club.

Many realtors are now offering property for lease. Some of these are listed as Whitetail Properties or Mossy Oak Properties, while others are simply run under the realtor name. Many specialized hunt leasing companies are also out there, and a simple search on the Internet will pop up many results.

ACCESS OPTION 3

A third option is to employ the services of an outfitter. This is often a bit pricey, but if a hunter wants to access a certain section of the state and to have an opportunity to harvest a mature whitetail, it may well be worth shelling out a few bucks. And with all the popularity of trophy hunting in Kentucky, more and more outfitters are springing up around the state every year.

Searching for an outfitter actually servicing the three counties spotlighted here only resulted in one hit, although there may be others this writer did not find. Whitetail Heaven Outfitters hunts Pulaski County and is owned by Tevis McCauley. They also hunt other Kentucky counties as well as in Ohio and Indiana.

Whitetail Heaven has been hunting trophy bucks for many years and their properties are managed extensively. Along with prime natural habitats, they use food plots, minerals and supplemental feedings to enhance the quality of the deer population. The average harvested buck with their service is right at 150 inches and the average size typically goes up each year.

Guided whitetail hunts there and at most other Kentucky outfitters typically start at about $2,000 and goes up from there. There is a 130-inch minimum harvest size at Whitetail Heaven and some farms have a 140- or 150-inch minimum. Contact them at (800) 689-6619 or (859) 509-2704, or go to whitetailheavenoutfitters.com.

The sleeping habits of a deer are probably some of the most interesting out of all the large land mammals. How deer sleep is so different from what we are used to as humans, that it makes them a very interesting topic to look into.

This overview covers a wide range of facts about how deer sleep, why they do it that way, and how it helps them survive in the wild. Let’s get right into it!

1. Some Deer Sleep Standing Up

Although it is not very common, some deer have been observed sleeping while standing up. The upright position is rare, because most adult deer sleep on their side with their heads up. Young fawns will lie down curled up, with their nose tucked under their legs.

Most individuals will not stand up because they lose muscle control while sleeping, just like humans do.

However, just like humans have the ability to sleep-walk, so can some deer! The main reason the animals might do this is to be extra alert about potential dangers in their immediate surroundings.

2. Deer Can Sleep With Their Eyes Open

Because a prey species like deer need to be on high alert at all times, it is not uncommon for deer to sleep with their eyes open. The animals fall into a daydream-like state for several seconds to minutes, lowering brain activity. The state is similar to what would be considered a sleep state.

Much like sleeping while standing up, sleeping with eyes open is an incidental occurrence for most deer. You might have even seen it while encountering them in the wild, without realizing it!

While bedding down, the animals are more likely to close their eyes for brief periods of time. Keeping their heads up and their other senses sharp, they never lose their ability to sense a potential predator nearby.

3. They Sleep In Super Short Intervals

Humans need about 8 hours of sleep every night to feel well-rested. Deer do it in a completely different way: the animals take incredibly short power naps and stay on high alert at all times.

How long deer sleep depends on how safe they feel bedding down. Most deer sleep 4.5 hours during the day, but will do so in extremely short intervals of about 30 seconds to 3 minutes at a time. During their sleep hours, deer will reach deeper REM sleep for about 30 minutes in total.

It is not uncommon for the animals to switch locations many times in a single sleep session. The short intervals wake them up often, but this is needed to keep them safe. Their resting brain is hard-wired for taking power naps, so to speak.

4. If Deer Sleep In Your Yard, They Feel Safe

Have you ever been blessed with the presence of some deer in your backyard? Then you have been chosen. If a deer shows up to take a nap on your property, it feels safe enough to be around you. They don’t see you as a threat and know they will not be harmed by you.

However cute Bambi might seem from a distance, be mindful of the fact that you’re still dealing with a wild animal. You should never feed wild deer for any reason, their survival should not depend on human feeding.

Especially in summer, fawns might end up in your yard to hide from potential predators. They are curled up and usually stay quiet in a hiding position, which makes a fawn relatively difficult to spot.

5. Returning To Sleep In The Same Spot

When deer have found a relatively safe bedding area, they are inclined to return to sleep in the same spot repeatedly. While the animals are known to change locations often (even during a single sleeping session), they will come back to a few good bedding locations to sleep in.

In order for a bedding area to feel safe enough to return to multiple times, the animals will have a few requirements for the perfect ‘sleeping spot’:

• Sufficient cover so potential predators cannot easily spot them
• Open view of a large area in order to spot any potential dangers
• The ability to hide from the rain or other weather elements
• Soft natural bedding like tall grass or a pile of leaves

6. Fawns Sleep With An Extreme Heartrate

Much like human babies, a newborn fawn is a natural-born sleeper. Compared to adult deer, a young fawn will sleep a lot more, about 95% of the time they are bedded. But don’t think the young animals are relaxed while doing this.

During their extensive bedding time, a fawn has an incredibly high heart rate of around 175 beats per minute. The senses of a baby deer are on high alert and shift immediately when potential danger is detected, dropping their heart rate to an average of only 60 beats per minute.

When the extremely high heart rate drops, the body of a hiding fawn is much more difficult to detect by potential predators. The animals breathe less, tuck their head into their legs, and pull their ears back to become as small and undetectable as possible.

7. Deer Don’t Usually Sleep At Night

People commonly think that deer are most active at night, but that’s not true. Deer are not considered nocturnal, but are instead crepuscular species, meaning they are most active during the twilight hours of the day (dawn and dusk).

While it is true that deer don’t often sleep at night, they are most active during the hours around sunrise and sunset.

The main benefit of being a crepuscular animal is decreasing the odds of getting preyed upon. During twilight hours (dawn and dusk), it is much harder for nocturnal and diurnal predators to track prey. This gives deer and other crepuscular wildlife the edge needed to survive as a species.

8. Winter Hibernation Is Not For Deer

While most deer species do lower their activity in the coldest months, the animals never go into hibernation. It is true that deer will hunker down for multiple days or weeks on end to avoid the cold, but they don’t fatten up enough before winter to survive going into full hibernation mode.

Mule deer, moose, elk, and reindeer are more inclined to be active during the winter months than other species, such as white-tailed deer. These species have adapted to colder climates and will remain active for the majority of autumn, winter, and spring.

It is safe to conclude that hibernation is not for deer, but that doesn’t mean they enjoy being in the cold. Hunkering down and bedding longer is their preferred solution to the cold!

9. Bucks In Rut Rarely Ever Sleep

During the rutting season, bucks change everything about their normal behavioral patterns. A buck will generally not sleep or eat during the height of rutting season. Mals will be too focused on finding a mating partner and driving out competitors.

Only after the buck found a suitable female and has successfully mated, he will take some to snooze and find food.

However, he will spend most of his time defending his territory and female from other interested males that are roaming the area. There will be very little time for a quick nap if you want to have children as a buck!

10. Sleeping Beside The Road Is Common

There is a reason why deer-vehicle collisions are such a common occurrence, especially when the colder months are approaching. An elevated road gives a sense of protection and will be a source of warmth for the animals.

The false feeling of safety the road might provide (the asphalt retaining the heat after the sun has set is the main culprit) motivates deer to stick around and take some rest longer than necessary.

If you find a doe or buck near the side of the road, you might want to consider shooing the animal away when it is safe to do so. Alert oncoming traffic before you do so, because you want to avoid the animals panicking and running into cars.

11. Like All Mammals, Deer Are Able To Dream

Even though a deer won’t stay in the dream state very long due to their short-interval sleeping patterns, a deer is able to dream. Deer get about 30 minutes of REM sleep per day, which is the deeper sleep phase in which dreams are produced.

What deer dreams are made of, we can only guess. Probably about food, other members of their herd, or maybe even about running away from that predator.

Maybe it’s true that when deer dream, they visit us when we are in that dream state ourselves. After all, humans assign a lot of value to deer appearing in their dreams…

Cut 1

With the deer on its back, lift its rump and slide something beneath its hindquarters to expose anal and/or vaginal openings. Using a sharp, “pointy” knife with a 4- to 6-inch blade, puncture the skin an inch to one side of the anus. Push the knife straight in to its hilt. Keeping it level and pointed straight ahead, cut a coring hole around the anus. If you shot a doe, include the vaginal opening in the cut.

Make one more knife pass around the pelvic canal’s interior to cut all connective tissue between the colon and pelvic canal. Don’t sever the colon. With one hand, tug lightly where the anus connects to it. Reach inside the pelvic canal with your index finger and tear any remaining connective tissue so the colon slides freely. Leave it and proceed.

Cut 2

Retrieve your knife and straddle the deer at its sternum, facing its rear. (Some hunters prefer to make this cut from the pelvis to sternum, but I recommend working from the sternum to the pelvis, as you can straddle the ribcage to keep the carcass fairly immobile.) Find the sternum bone’s flat surface and cut about a 5-inch slit through the hide atop the sternum. Point the knife toward the deer’s rear and hold it so the blade’s edge faces upward. With your free hand, form a “V” with your index and middle fingers and slide them safely beneath and behind the blade on each side.

Press your two guide fingers inside the cut on the sternum, push lightly into the abdomen and lift the hide from inside. With your two guide fingers leading the way, and being careful not to cut into the stomach and intestines below, use the blade’s tip to slice the hide from the sternum to the deer’s pelvis. Don’t cut into the pelvis; there’s no need to cut or saw through the pelvic bone. At this point, you can also remove a buck’s penis and scrotum, or a doe’s udders.

Cut 3

Pull the cavity open and locate the diaphragm. This is a taut membrane separating the chest cavity (lungs and heart) from the liver, stomach and intestines. Carefully cut the diaphragm away from both sides of the body cavity to the spine below.

Cut 4

Using your free hand, reach far inside the chest cavity to the neck and find the esophagus (windpipe), which feels like the ribbed tube on an elk call or vacuum cleaner. Using extreme care, reach up inside with your knife and cut through the esophagus above where you’re holding it with your other hand.

While keeping one hand firmly around the esophagus, withdraw your knife and lay it on the ground. Now reach back inside, grip the esophagus with both hands and pull firmly. Everything inside the deer—stem to stern—will pull free of the deer’s interior. You’ll need to pull hard at times to tear some connective tissue, but more cuts shouldn’t be needed.

Watch the innards as you pull them from the abdomen. If the bladder is full, guide it gently with one hand as it slides out with the rest of the entrails. If you properly cored the anus and colon, they’ll pull into the abdomen and slide out with everything else.

Flip the deer belly down and splay its legs to drain pooled blood from the body cavity. While it drains, clean and stow your gear for the pack-out.

Follow these steps, and gutting the deer will be your easiest task of the day.