In this article, we study Moose compared to humans. Moose are a large, placid mammal found in North America. They share many similarities with humans, such as walking on two legs and possessing a strong immune system. However, there are also some key differences between Moose and humans. For example, Moose has larger heart than humans and can weigh up to 1,600 pounds! In addition, they have a longer gestation period than humans (around nine months) and give birth to one calf at a time.

Moose and humans have been living side by side for a long time, and these two species are so similar that one might wonder how they distinguish themselves. This article will answer the question, “What is the difference between moose and humans?”

In this article, we will see the difference between a moose and a human and examine the anatomy of both creatures to learn more about them.

Moose Compared To Human

Moose Size Comparison The Types of Moose

Moose are one of the largest species within the deer family. Several subspecies are found across the northern hemisphere, the largest being the Alaskan Moose, also known as the Yukon moose. They can stand up to 7.5 feet tall at the shoulder and weigh over 1,500 pounds.

The Eurasian elk or Moose is slightly smaller, with females averaging around 800-900 pounds while males weigh around 1,100-1,300 pounds. The Shiras moose, found in North America, is the smallest of the subspecies, with females weighing around 500-700 pounds and males weighing around 800-1,000 pounds.

Moose have long legs, a broad faces, and a distinctive “bell” or hanging dewlap under their chin. Despite their size, they are surprisingly good swimmers and can run up to 35 miles per hour over short distances. Moose are a fascinating and impressive species, with subtle differences in size and appearance across their range.

• Alaska Yukon Moose:

The Alaska Yukon moose is considered the largest subspecies of Moose worldwide. These massive animals can weigh 1,200 to 1,600 pounds and stand up to six feet tall at the shoulder. The largest recorded Alaska Yukon moose was a bull found in the Yukon Territory in Canada, which weighed in at a whopping 1,800 pounds and had antlers that spanned almost six feet across.

With their long legs and impressive antlers, these Moose are built for intimidating displays of strength during mating season. Hunters also prize them for their impressive size and meat, which is lean and high in protein. While the largest Alaska Yukon moose ever recorded may be an anomaly, these impressive animals are still a sight in their natural habitat.

• Yellowstone Moose:

The Yellowstone Moose, known for their enormous size, are found in the forests of North America and are one of the largest breeds of Moose in the world. The largest recorded Moose was a Bull Alaskan Moose, which weighed over 2,000 lbs and had antlers spanning over 6 feet in width. Despite its enormous size, the Moose is a gentle giant and has never been known to attack humans unprovoked.

Moose prefer to live in isolation and be more active in the early morning and late afternoon. They are herbivores and enjoy a diet of grasses, aquatic plants, and leaves. The Yellowstone Moose’s population has steadily decreased, primarily due to habitat loss and hunting. However, conservation efforts have been implemented to protect and preserve the species. Overall, the size of the largest Moose in the world is a breathtaking sight to see and can only be appreciated through firsthand experience.

Five Cool Facts About the Moose

The Moose, also known as the elk, is a majestic creature in North America. Here are five cool facts about the Moose that you may not know.

• Male Moose, or bulls as they are called, can weigh up to 1,500 pounds and stand up to 7 feet tall, making them one of the largest land animals in North America.
• Contrary to popular belief, the Moose is not entirely mute and can vocalize through various sounds, including grunts and bellows.
• Moose have specially designed nose that allows them to breathe through the snow, making it easier to survive in their natural habitat during the winter months.
• The Moose is an excellent swimmer and can move through the water at up to 6 miles per hour. This unique skill allows them to cross large bodies of water, which other animals would find impossible.
• Moose can run up to 35 miles per hour, which, despite their large size, is surprisingly fast. This speed has allowed them to outrun predators and escape danger in the wild. While there are many fascinating animals in North America, the Moose certainly stands out as one of the most interesting and unique creatures nature offers.

Moose vs. Human Size Comparison

When it comes to size comparison between Moose and humans, there is simply no contest. Moose are large and imposing animals, often standing up to 6 feet at the shoulders and weighing up to 1,500 pounds. The average human male is roughly 5 feet 9 inches tall and weighs around 200 pounds. As such, a moose can make a human feel very small indeed.

One of the most striking things about a moose’s size is its antlers. These appendages can grow to be as wide as 6 feet and weigh up to 70 pounds, making them the largest antlers of any mammal in the world. And while they may not use them to attack humans, Moose are known to be extremely territorial and can become aggressive if they feel threatened or cornered.

Overall, while humans may be able to outsmart or outmaneuver Moose in certain situations, there is no denying these majestic animals’ sheer size and power. When encountering a moose in the wild, it is essential to show respect and caution, as they are capable of causing serious harm if provoked. Additionally, it is important to remain vigilant when driving in areas with moose populations, as collisions with these animals can be deadly for both parties involved. Despite their intimidating size, Moose are fascinating creatures that deserve our admiration and protection.

Moose Size Comparison to a Horse

Moose are one of the largest animals in the deer family and are known for their enormous size. They are much larger than horses in terms of height and weight. On average, a moose can stand up to six feet tall at the shoulder and weigh anywhere between 800 to 1400 pounds, almost twice the weight of the average horse.

Their massive antlers can measure up to six feet in width, adding to their impressive size. In comparison, horses are much smaller, with an average height of 15-16 hands and a weight between 800 to 1200 pounds. Standing next to a fully grown moose, you can easily see the significant physical differences between the two animals. Overall, Moose are one of the largest land animals in North America, and their impressive size is just one of the many fascinating things about them.

Moose Size Comparison to an Elk

Moose are the largest deer species in the world, with adult males weighing between 1,000 to 1,500 pounds, while females are smaller, weighing around 800 to 1,000 pounds. In comparison, adult male elk weigh around 700 pounds, while females weigh around 500 pounds. Moose also stand taller than elk, with males reaching up to 6 feet and females around 5 feet at the shoulder. Elk, on the other hand, stand around 4 to 5 feet at the shoulder.

Moose also have larger antlers than elk, with a span of up to 6 feet, whereas elk antlers generally span about 5 feet. The size difference between Moose and elk is due to their different habitats and behaviors. Moose live in colder, more forested areas, while elk typically inhabit more open areas such as grasslands. As such, Moose needs to be bigger and more agile to navigate through dense vegetation.

Moose Size Comparison to a Bison

Moose and bison are both majestic animals often found in the wild. However, when it comes to size, Moose are generally larger than bison. A fully-grown bull moose can weigh up to 1,500 pounds and reach six and a half feet tall at the shoulder. A typical male bison weighs between 800 to 2,000 pounds and stands around six feet tall at the shoulder.

The main physical difference between the two is their antlers and horns. Moose have broad, flat antlers which can span up to six feet across, while bison have shorter, curved horns. Regarding their overall appearance, both animals have distinctive humped shoulder and large head, which is used for grazing on vegetation. Despite their differences, these majestic creatures are both vital to the ecosystem and remain an important symbol of the wild west.

Moose Size Comparison to an Elephant

The Moose and the elephant are two very different but majestic animals. Regarding size comparison, the elephant is the larger of the two. An average adult elephant can weigh anywhere from 5,000 to 14,000 pounds, while a bull moose weighs in at around 1,200 pounds. Elephants can also stand anywhere from 8 to 13 feet tall, while Moose are typically only around 6.5 to 7 feet tall at the shoulder.

Moose does have one advantage over elephants, though, in terms of antlers. A male moose’s antlers can span up to 6 feet across, while elephants do not have any antlers or tusks that can compare. Overall, while both animals are impressive in their ways, elephants take the cake regarding their sheer size.

How Big Is a Full-Grown Moose?

The full-grown Moose is one of the largest land mammals found in North America and Europe. Standing on all four legs, a male moose can reach up to 7 feet at the shoulder, while a female can measure up to 5 feet. Their weight can vary depending on the season, but on average, a bull can weigh anywhere between 800-1500 pounds, while a female can weigh between 600-800 pounds.

Their antlers are also a distinguishing feature, with males having broad, curved antlers measuring up to 6 feet wide. However, females also have antlers, usually smaller and less noticeable. Moose are known for their intimidating size, and despite their large size, they are also agile swimmers and runners. Seeing a moose in the wild is often a highlight for tourists, as they are unique and fascinating creatures.

How Big Is the Largest Moose in the World?

The largest Moose in the world, commonly known as the Alaskan Moose, can grow over 7 feet tall and weigh upwards of 1,600 pounds. These majestic creatures are found primarily in Alaska, Canada, and parts of Scandinavia and are known for their massive antlers that can reach up to 6 feet in width. The largest recorded Alaskan Moose had antlers that spanned 79 inches, making it nearly impossible to imagine how impressive and intimidating these animals can be.

Despite their imposing size, these Moose are generally docile and avoid confrontation with humans. However, they are still considered one of the most challenging big-game animals to hunt due to their elusive nature and the harsh terrain in which they are typically found. The Alaskan Moose is undoubtedly a remarkable animal that commands respect and awe for its sheer size and power.

How Big Are Moose Compared to Humans?

Moose are much larger than humans. An average moose can grow up to 6.5 feet tall at the shoulder and weigh up to 1,800 pounds, while the average human is around 5.6 feet tall and weighs around 160 pounds. Moose has a towering presence and can be intimidating, especially when encountered up close.

How Big Is a Moose Compared to a Bison?

A moose is typically larger than a bison. While the average adult bison stands around 6 feet tall and weighs between 900 and 2,000 pounds, a male moose can reach up to 7 feet tall and weigh between 800 and 1,800 pounds. The antlers of a male moose can also add 4 to 5 feet in height.

How Strong Is a Moose?

Moose are incredibly strong and powerful animals. Adult males, or bulls, can weigh up to 1500 pounds and stand over seven feet tall. Their thick muscles and strong bones allow them to charge through deep snow and rough terrain, easily breaking through tree branches. Moose are formidable competitors in the animal kingdom and should not be underestimated.

What Is the Size of a Baby Moose?

A baby moose is typically born weighing between 25 and 35 pounds and standing about 3 feet tall. As they grow, they can reach a height of up to 6 feet at the shoulder and weigh around 1,200 pounds as adults. The actual size of a baby moose may vary depending on the sub-species and location where they are born.

What is a Moose, and what are they like?

Moose are large, brown mammals living in cold climates worldwide. Moose are the largest land animals in North America and can weigh up to 2,000 pounds. They have two big antlers on their heads that they use to fight for mates and food. The Moose is a shy animal that survives by grazing on grasses and shrubs.

Moose are large mammals weighing up to 1,500 pounds and standing as tall as 6 feet at the shoulder. There are two main types of Moose: the North American Black and the Brown. These moose varieties have unique physical features that set them apart from other mammalian species. For example, Brown moose have large heads with short ears, while North American Black Moose have smaller heads with long ears.

Another distinguishing feature of Moose is their antlers. Antlers give these animals their name – they are similar to horns in shape and size, but they grow on all four legs instead of just on the head. Moose use their antlers to dig for food or to defend themselves against predators. Antler growth is limited by testosterone – when males reach sexual maturity, their antlers start to grow rapidly to attract mates.

While North American Black and Brown moose share many of the same characteristics, they have some differences! For example, Brown moose are more likely than North American Black Moose to inhabit thickly forested environments. At the same time, North American Black Moose are more likely to live in open areas near water sources. Overall, though, Moose are fascinating creatures that deserve our attention – not only for their impressive physical features but also for their unique behavior and ecology.

What is a Human, and how do they differ from Moose?

A human is a warm-blooded mammalian species that stands upright on two legs and has a head with a large brain. They differ in many ways from Moose, the largest land animal in North America. For one, humans are much smaller than Moose. A male moose can weigh up to 1,500 pounds and measure 10 feet tall at the shoulder. Meanwhile, a human female typically weighs about 150 pounds and stands only 4 feet tall at the shoulder. Additionally, humans have shorter noses and ears than Moose. Their fur varies in color from black, brown, gray, or white.

Humans have adaptations that allow them to thrive in colder climates than other mammals. For example, humans have a layer of insulation around their body called a fatty layer which helps keep them warm in cold weather conditions. Humans also have larger lungs that allow them to take in more oxygen when they are running or skiing, allowing them to stay warm for longer periods. Finally, humans have thicker skin than most other mammals which helps protect them from injuries in cold weather conditions.

How does Moose live, and what is their diet?

Compared to humans: Moose are large, hairy, and surprisingly agile animals that can travel up to 30 miles daily. They live in the northern hemisphere and eat mostly plants, though they will also eat small mammals, birds, and fish. Moose have a long gestation period (up to 12 months) and give birth to one or two calves. Cows and calves are scrawny initially but quickly gain weight as they forage for food.

Moose are massive animals and can weigh up to two thousand pounds, and they live in the coldest parts of North America, including Alaska and Canada. Moose are herbivores whose diet consists mainly of grass, leaves, and other plants.

How do humans live, and what is their diet?

In Moose compared to humans: Humans are currently the dominant species on Earth and have developed civilizations and cultures that span the globe. Humans rely on plants and animals for food, but what is the difference between a Moose and a human? Moose compared to humans, so a Moose has a longer life expectancy than a human. They can live up to 25 years in the wild, while humans can only live around 70. A Moose’s diet consists mainly of vegetation (grass, leaves, etc.), while humans have evolved to be omnivorous. This means that they eat both plants and animals.

Why are Moose different from humans: Moose compared to a human?

Moose are different from humans in many ways. For one, they are much larger and have a thicker fur coat than humans. Moose also have longer noses than humans, and their ears are smaller. They also have a differently shaped brain than humans, which may explain why they are better at some tasks than humans, such as navigating in the wild.

When Moose is compared to humans, then Moose is one of the most iconic and recognizable animals in North America. They are large, bulky creatures that stand on two legs and have a long necks. Moose are different from humans in many ways. For example, Moose has four teats instead of two, which helps them to nurse their young.

Moose also have longer tails than humans, and they move more slowly than people do – making them slower runners on average. Additionally, Moose have different adaptations for survival in their environment: they have long noses that help them find food underwater and big antlers that help them defend themselves against predators.

Conclusion

Moose are huge animals that can weigh up to two thousand pounds and have several distinguishing features compared to humans. For one, Moose, compared to humans, Moose have shorter necks than humans and larger heads. Additionally, their ears are relatively small, and they lack a chin. Moose also typically have longer legs than humans, which gives them an advantage when running away from danger or chasing down food.

Finally, Moose tend to possess darker fur than humans, making it more difficult for predators to see in the forested areas where they live.

The biggest difference between Moose and humans is that Moose have a higher level of omega-3 fatty acids in their diet. This means they have a lower risk of heart disease and other chronic diseases, so they are hunted for their meat in some parts of the world. Additionally, their hair contains more moisture than human hair, so it can be used to make clothing and other products.

FAQs

How big is a moose compared to a human?

Moose are much larger than humans, with adult males reaching a height of around 6-7 feet at the shoulder and weighing up to 1500 pounds. Females are slightly smaller but still much larger than the average human. Moose are impressive animals with their massive size and unique antlers, making them a sight in the wild.

How big is the biggest Moose?

The biggest Moose ever recorded was a male Alaskan moose that weighed over 1,800 pounds and stood over 7 feet tall at the shoulders. These massive creatures can have antlers that span over 6 feet and can weigh up to 40 pounds each. Moose are the largest members of the deer family and are found in North America, Scandinavia, and Russia.

What animal is the same size as a moose?

The elk, also known as a wapiti, is the same size as a moose, and they are both members of the deer family and can weigh up to 1000 pounds. However, the Moose tends to be taller due to its longer legs, while the elk has a more slender build.

Why is Moose so strong?

Moose are incredibly strong animals due to a combination of factors, including their large size, muscular build, and dense bones. They can carry and lift objects that weigh up to 1,000 pounds, making them some of the strongest animals in the world. Moose also has a unique way of walking that helps distribute their weight evenly, making them more stable and capable of navigating rough terrain.

Why is Moose so strong?

Moose are incredibly strong due to several factors. Their large size and muscular build allow them to carry their massive antlers and navigate difficult terrain. Moose also has an extremely efficient digestive system, allowing them to extract maximum nutrients from their food, giving them the energy to maintain their strength. Finally, Moose have a keen spatial awareness and an innate ability to adapt to their environment, making them powerful and successful animals in the wild.

If you’re not flying down The Big Mountain in Whitefish going mach speed, hiking Glacier National Park, or visiting the best places in Montana for 2024 than you’re not taking advantage of the best things that Montana has to offer.

Whether you’re sitting by Flathead Lake, jaunting through Custer National Forest in Billings, or just hanging with the good people of Big Sky Country, Montana is the best. It was tough to narrow down the top ten best places to live in this Northwest state.

But, HomeSnacks did it. How’d we do it? We consulted the numbers. In total, we analyzed the 32 cities for important factors like cost of living, crime, unemployment rates, rent and median home values for every place with over 2,000 residents.

We discovered fantastic places in Montana to live for every stage of life and every budget. Glasgow is the best for families just starting, Dillon is excellent for people looking to retire, and make sure to give Sidney a second look if you don’t have to worry about a budget.

Have we piqued your interest? Want to know more about our methodology and where the best places in Montana are located? Keep reading.

What is the best place to live in Montana for 2024? According to the US Census and FBI data, Whitefish is the best place to live in Montana if you care about home values, low crime, and high quality of life.

Read below to see how your hometown and other amazing Montana cities ranked. Hint: if you live in the greater Helena area, consider yourself one lucky Montanan.

If you’re looking for something more national, check out the best states in America or the best places to live in America.

For more Montana reading, check out:

• Best Counties To Live In Montana
• Cheapest Places To Live In Montana
• Best Places To Raise A Family In Montana

Next 10 Cities

Mapping The Best And Worst Places To Live in Montana

Best Places To Live In Montana Size Requirement

Before we even started to collect data on the best places to live in Montana, we had to answer a tough question: Is it fair to pit Helena with a population of 32,060 against places with a population of 18?

We firmly decided no, that just isn’t fair.

So to create our ranking, we broke the best places to live into three tiers:

• Cities — Populations over 2,000
• Towns — Populations between 1,000 and 2,000
• Small Towns — Populations below 1,000

This left us with 32 cities, 62 towns, and 215 small towns.

We then decided, no matter how much anyone loves their town, the best cities to live in Montana have more of everything and therefore you need to have over 2,000 people to truly be ‘the best’.

Now we also realize that city living might not be your cup of tea, so we ran the same analysis on the best towns and then again for the best small towns.

You can see the results of those best place rankings at the end of the article.

Summary: The Best Places In Montana

If you’re looking at areas in Montana with the best economic situations, where there’s lower than average crime, and a lot to do, this is an accurate list.

Whitefish made a strong showing to take in the overall number one spot for the best place to live in Montana for 2024.

Best Towns To Live In Montana

1. King Arthur Park (Pop. 1,137)
2. Scobey (Pop. 1,175)
3. Montana City (Pop. 2,878)
4. Four Corners (Pop. 4,003)
5. Glasgow (Pop. 3,363)
6. Colstrip (Pop. 2,288)
7. Helena Valley Northwest (Pop. 3,967)
8. Plentywood (Pop. 1,881)
9. Baker (Pop. 1,866)
10. West Glendive (Pop. 1,922)

Best Small Towns To Live In Montana

1. Belknap (Pop. 291)
2. Kerr (Pop. 115)
3. Turah (Pop. 426)
4. South Hills (Pop. 529)
5. Park City (Pop. 944)
6. Sweet Grass (Pop. 95)
7. Saddle Butte (Pop. 175)
8. Huntley (Pop. 478)
9. Gibson Flats (Pop. 253)
10. Rader Creek (Pop. 234)

If you’re curious enough, here are the worst places to live in Montana according to the data:

1. Townsend (Pop. 2,224)
2. Polson (Pop. 5,161)
3. Hardin (Pop. 3,754)

For more Montana reading, check out:

• Best Places To Retire In Montana
• Richest Cities In Montana
• Safest Places In Montana
• Worst Places To Live In Montana

Meat sticks, snack sticks, beef sticks, slim jims, whatever you want to call them, these on-the-go meat snacks are a staple in sausage making. A cousin of jerky, this semi-dry sausage is thinner in diameter and can be made from pork, beef, venison or other combinations of wild game.

Meat sticks are ground then stuffed in either collagen or natural casings. They can be seasoned with virtually any profile and enhanced with add-ins like high-temp cheese, encapsulated citric acid or cultures. No matter how you flavor your meat sticks, they’re the perfect hand-held meat snack and are a great way to utilize your venison or leftover trimmings.

Tools of the Trade

• Meat Grinder with 3/8” and 3/16” plates
• Meat Mixer or Your Hands
• Meat Lug or Large Food-Safe Container
• Stuffer (13 or 16mm horn)
• Smokehouse

Meat (and Fat) Instructions for Meat Sticks

For this venison snack stick recipe, making sure you have the right meat-to-fat ratio is important. For the best meat sticks, you’ll want to shoot for a range of 15-25% fat and 85-75% lean for the finished product. Any leaner, and you risk a dry and crumbly texture in your snack sticks. This is especially important when making deer sticks. When working with venison, we recommend adding about 50% venison and 50% pork trim with 50% fat content into your snack sticks. Pork trim, or the trimmings from the shoulder or butt, are typically available at your local butcher shop (make sure to call ahead!). If you want to be really precise, you can separate the visible fat from the meat and weigh them out separately to get the exact ratios right for your venison sticks.

Grinding & Mixing for Snack Sticks

Meat sticks don’t require a very fine grind, as you’ll want to retain some visual separation of fat and meat in your final beef sticks. To get the right snack stick texture, we recommend grinding twice; the first pass through a 3/8“ plate then twice through a 3/16” plate.

Pro tip: Remember to always keep your sausage stick’s meat cold! We recommend popping your meat block back into the cooler between grinds to prevent smearing.

Once each of your proteins has been ground, you can begin mixing either by hand or by using a meat mixer. We recommend doing it by hand for batches less than 25 lbs as you don’t want to break the any encapsulated citric acid or high-temp cheese you’re adding into your snack sticks.

Beef Sticks Seasoning & Additives

Begin by adding your seasoning to your meat sticks. Whether you’re making pork, venison, beef sticks, we recommend our No. 765 Honey BBQ Snack Stick Seasoning or No 769 Willie’s Seasoning. Both have a great depth of flavor that are equally good on their own or mixed with other additives like high-temp cheese. Other favorite meat stick seasonings are:

• No. 769 Honey Sriracha Seasoning: Sweet with just the right amount of heat. Comes with Speed Cure. Perfect for beef sticks.
• No 491 Seven Pepper Seasoning: Feel the burn! This blend is just like the name implies with chili, jalapeno, chipotle, habanero and red peppers. Comes with Speed Cure. Amazing for venison sticks.
• No. 798 Pepperoni Stick Seasoning: The delicious taste of pepperoni in a snack form. Comes with Maple Cure. Best for pork sticks.

If your seasoning doesn’t have any larger pieces, you can season after the first grind and have the grinder do some of the distribution for you.

All of our meat stick seasonings come complete with cure for up to 25 lbs. of meat. Nitrites help preserve the red in the meat in the absence of oxygen and also kill bacteria that can result in food-borne illnesses. Add the appropriate amount of cure for your meat batch to your water and stir to combine.

Once the seasonings and cure have been well incorporated into your meat stick mix, this is the time to add in any other flavorings. We like to add in high-temp cheddar cheese and encapsulated citric acid. Encapsulated citric acid gives a mouthwatering tang to your finished sausage sticks and because it’s coated, won’t break down the texture of the meat.

For meat snack sticks, you’ll want to get a good amount of protein extraction before stuffing. The end results should be sticky and pasty, with seasonings well incorporated throughout. For proper jerky stick flavor and color development, refrigerate your meat mixture overnight or for several hours before stuffing.

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Meat Sticks Casings

Meat sticks have a smaller diameter and are typically made with either natural sheep casings or small collagen casings. We prefer the irresistible “snap” that comes from natural sheep casings, but collagen casings will offer better uniformity and rich mahogany color for your snack sticks. For the best beef sticks, we recommend:

• 20-22 mm Natural Sheep Casings (Home Pack)

• 20-22 mm Natural Sheep Casings (Preflushed)

• 21 mm Mahogany Processed Collage Casings

• 21 mm Clear Processed Collagen Casings

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Meat Sticks Processing

One of the trickiest parts of making meat sticks is the processing or smoking process. If the sausages heat too quickly, the fat has the potential of melting out of the beef stick and the encapsulated acid can break down. The key is to gradually increase the temperature to ensure there’s no fat or additive loss inside the snack sticks.

The type of combustible you will use for smoking also has an impact on the taste and smoking process of your meat sticks. It is best to do some research and figure out which material you should use to obtain the best beef sticks.

To make the best smoked snack sticks, we recommend using a high quality electric smokehouse, like the Pro Smoker PK-100, which uses sawdust as smoke fuel. Always refer to your manufacturers instructions for smoking times and temperatures, but as a general rule, our recommend processing schedule is:

• Set smokehouse to 120° F. Hung sausage sticks and set in the smokehouse to dry for ½ hour (no smoke)
• Increase temperature to 130° F and smoke for 1 hour (dampers closed 75%)
• Increase temperature to 150° F and smoke for 1 hour
• Increase temperature to 170° F and remove smoke
• Cook until internal temperature of the snack stick reaches 155° F degrees

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Cooling

There are two ways to cool down sausages and snack sticks after the smoking process: air drying or ice bath. If you choose to air dry, let the meat sticks rest at room temperature for about ½ hour to bring the internal temperature of the snack sticks down to 110 degrees before placing them in the fridge to cool completely. The ice bath method goes faster, but both processes with get the casings to firm up and create the nice snap texture when you bite into your beef sticks.

Once in the fridge, wait until the snack sticks reach an internal temperature of 39 degrees before vacuum packing or storing. If properly sealed and packaged, snack sticks can last in the freezer for several months or in the refrigerator for 2-3 weeks.

Enjoy Your Homemade Beef Sticks!

You now have succeeded in making your own homemade meat sticks! Whether you chose to follow it as a venison or beef sticks recipe, we are sure you will feel proud every time you go for a quick meat snack!

Don’t hesitate to check out all our sausage recipes and meat & sausage tips!

For printable instructions, see our recipe for Honey BBQ Venison Snack Sticks.

Ah, the sizzle of a perfectly seared steak, the juicy tenderness of a succulent chicken breast, or the mouthwatering aroma of a slow-roasted pork shoulder – there’s nothing quite like the satisfaction of a well-cooked piece of meat.

But as any seasoned chef will tell you, achieving that perfect balance of flavor, texture, and safety is all about cooking meat to the correct internal temperature. Like any other meat, venison brats has to be cooked to the proper temperature in order to be both delicious and safe to eat.

What Is The Right Internal Temperature For Venison Brats?

The right internal temperature for venison brats is 155°F (68.3°C). The temperature should be taken with a food thermometer in the thickest part of the meat. It is important to note that the temperature should be taken in the center of the meat, not the edges.

How To Cook Venison Brats To The Right Internal Temperature

The best way to ensure that venison brats is cooked to the right internal temperature is to use a thermometer. However, a typical method would be to cook it at a temperature of 180°F (82.2°C) for about 20 minutes.

It is also important to keep in mind that the internal temperature of venison brats will continue to rise after it is removed from the heat source. Therefore, it is important to remove the venison brats from the heat source when the thermometer reads 155°F (68.3°C). This will ensure that the venison brats is cooked to the right internal temperature.

Why Is Internal Temperature Important?

Cooking food to the right internal temperature is essential for food safety. Bacteria can cause foodborne illness when food is not cooked to the right temperature.

Venison Brats is particularly susceptible to foodborne illness because it can contain higher levels of bacteria than other meats. Therefore, it is important to ensure that venison brats is cooked to the right internal temperature in order to avoid foodborne illness.

When Cooking Venison Brats, It Is Important To Keep The Following Tips In Mind:

1. Marinate your venison brats in your favorite sauce or marinade overnight for maximum flavor. 2. Preheat your grill to medium-high heat before cooking. 3. Grill your venison brats for 8-10 minutes, flipping once, or until they reach an internal temperature of 160°F. 4. Serve your grilled venison brats on a toasted bun with your favorite toppings. 5. Enjoy!

Venison Brats Recipes

Recipe 1. Venison Brat and Kraut Recipe

Ingredients:

-1 package venison brats -1 large jar sauerkraut -1 can beer -1 onion, sliced -1 tablespoon caraway seeds

Instructions:

1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. 2. In a large roasting pan, combine venison brats, sauerkraut, beer, onion, and caraway seeds. 3. Bake in preheated oven for 45 minutes, or until brats are cooked through. 4. Serve on a bed of sauerkraut with a side of beer. Enjoy!

Recipe 2. Venison Brats with Herbed Goat Cheese

Ingredients:

-1 package venison brats -4 ounces herbed goat cheese -1 tablespoon olive oil -1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh rosemary -1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh thyme -1/2 teaspoon kosher salt -1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Instructions:

1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. 2. In a small bowl, combine goat cheese, olive oil, rosemary, thyme, salt, and pepper. 3. Cut a slit lengthwise down the center of each brat. Fill each brat with goat cheese mixture. 4. Place brats on a baking sheet and bake in preheated oven for 20 minutes, or until brats are cooked through. 5. Enjoy!

Sources

1. Hughes, C. (2018, September 6). Venison Beer Bratwurst (a.k.a. Deer Beer Brats). Broken Arrow Ranch. https://brokenarrowranch.com/blogs/recipes/venison-beer-bratwurst-a-k-a-deer-beer-brats#:~:text=Simmer%20the%20bratwurst%20for%20about,over%20low%20heat%20until%20ready. 2. Pan-Fried Venison Bratwurst. (2018, May 13). How to Cook Meat. https://howtocookmeat.com/recipes/pan-fried-venison-bratwurst/#:~:text=Check%20the%20internal%20temperature%20of%20the%20bratwurst.&text=Once%20they%20reach%20155%20degrees%20F%2C%20remove%20them%20from%20the,for%20a%20few%20more%20minutes.

If you are an avid outdoors enthusiast or a survivalist, you know that having the right gear is crucial to your success. One of the most important tools in your arsenal is a good bushcraft saw. Whether you’re camping, hiking, or backpacking, a bushcraft or survival saw can be incredibly useful for cutting firewood, clearing trails, and more. But with so many options on the market, it can be overwhelming to choose the best one for your needs. In this ultimate guide, we will explore everything you need to know about choosing the best bushcraft saw for survival and wilderness adventures.

What is a bushcraft saw?

Before we dive into how to choose the best bushcraft saw, let’s first define what it is. A bushcraft saw, or survival saw, is a type of saw that is specifically designed for use in the outdoors. It is typically smaller and more portable than a traditional saw, axe, or hatchet, making it easier to carry with you on hikes or camping trips. Bushcraft saws come in a variety of shapes and sizes, and they are often used for cutting through small to medium-sized branches and logs.

Why is having a good bushcraft saw important?

A bushcraft saw is a vital tool for anyone who spends time in the outdoors or in the wilderness. It can be used for a variety of tasks, including:

• Building shelter
• Gathering firewood
• Clearing trails
• Processing game
• Making tools and other items

Without a good bushcraft saw, these tasks can be extremely difficult, if not impossible, to accomplish. Having the right survival saw can make all the difference in a wilderness survival situation.

Best Bushcraft Saws for Survival

Now that you know what factors to consider when choosing a bushcraft saw, let’s take a look at some of the top bushcraft saws on the market:

Agawa Boreal21 Folding Bow Saw – EDITOR’S CHOICE – Best Bushcraft Saw – Overall

The Agawa Boreal21 Folding Saw is a versatile and durable saw designed for outdoor enthusiasts. The saw has a 21-inch blade that’s made from high-quality hardened stainless steel, making it tough enough to cut through hard wood and thick branches with ease. The handle folds and snaps into place during assembly, without even needing to touch the blade, and the trapezium-shaped frame geometry increases the range of motion while sawing. Additionally, it offers good clearance above the saw blade, allowing you to cut through larger logs without having to change the angle.

One of the standout features of the Agawa Boreal21 Folding Saw is its folding design. The saw can be folded down to a compact size, making it easy to carry in your backpack or pocket. When you need to use it, simply unfold the saw, and it’s ready to use. The saw also comes with a durable nylon sheath that makes it easy to store and transport.

This saw is also lightweight, coming in at 18.7 ounces. The only downside is that it’s a bit pricier than some of its competitors, but its quality construction, ease of use, and sharp cutting action might just pay off in the long run.

An alternative to the AGAWA folding bow saw is the Gerber Gear Freescape Camp Saw.

Corona RazorTOOTH Folding Saw – Best Budget-Friendly Bushcraft Folding Saw

If you’re looking for a reliable, efficient saw for your bushcraft trip, the Corona RazorTOOTH Folding Saw is an excellent choice. The Corona RazorTOOTH Folding Pruning Saw features a 10-inch blade that utilizes pull-back action. The saw blade’s 3-sided razor teeth easily cut through small to medium branches up to 6 inches in diameter. The replaceable curved blade folds into the handle and the saw features a safety lock to prevent accidental opening when not in use. The Corona RazorTOOTH Saw Folding Saw also has a comfortable, ergonomic grip that reduces hand fatigue and makes it easy to use for extended periods of time.

The Corona RazorTOOTH Folding Pruning Saw is a durable and affordable option for those on a budget. While it may not be suitable for heavy-duty tasks or thicker branches, it is a great choice for most wood-cutting tasks you’ll face in the wilderness.

Silky Bigboy Folding Saw – Best Survival Saw for Thicker Wood

If you anticipate the need to cut down larger branches or small trees on your next bushcraft trip, the Silky Bigboy Folding Saw may be the right bushcraft saw for the trip. The Silky Bigboy Folding Saw features a 14.2-inch curved blade made from premium Japanese steel. The laser-cut, extra large blade teeth provide efficient cutting of even dry, hardwood. The handle of the saw is rubber-cushioned for comfort and improved grip.

While it’s one of the larger folding saws on the market, the Bigbog saw weighs in at just 1lb. Overall, the Silky Bigboy Folding Saw is a high-quality saw that offers excellent cutting performance and durability. Its large blade size and curved design make it a great option for a variety of cutting tasks, and its lightweight and folding design make it easy to carry and store.

HME Pocket Chainsaw Survival Saw

The Hunting Made Easy (HME) Pocket Chainsaw is designed for convenience and portability. Its compact and lightweight design allows it to easily fold up for storage in a backpack or pocket. Heavy-duty nylon handles provide a secure grip to the 36-inch high carbon steel chain. The chain features bi-directional cutting teeth to help it tackle tough cutting jobs in the wilderness, allowing you to easily cut through branches and logs.

The HME Pocket Chainsaw is perfect for those who will need to cut wood but don’t want the weight or bulk of a larger folding saw or axe.

Sven Folding Saw

The Sven Saw is a classic camping and bushcraft saw that has been around for over 60 years. Available in either a 21-inch blade or a 15-inch blade, the Sven Saw features a unique, all-metal folded saw design. The saws fold into a compact, ruler-like form that’s just 1.5″ wide and 5/8″ thick. The Sven Saws are also very lightweight, with the 21″ saw weighing less than 14 ounces and the 15″ Sven Saw weighing 11 ounces. The Swedish steel blades are crafted to last for 15-30 years and can easily cut through trunks or branches for firewood, clearing trails, and more.

Factors to Consider When Choosing a Bushcraft Saw

When choosing a bushcraft saw, there are several factors to consider. Here are some of the most important ones:

Blade Types: Finding the Right Saw for Your Needs

The blade is one of the most important components of a bushcraft saw. There are several different blade types to choose from, each with its own strengths and weaknesses. Here are a few of the most common blade types you’ll encounter when shopping for a bushcraft saw:

• Crosscut Blades: These blades have teeth that are angled towards the handle, which makes them ideal for cutting across the grain of the wood. They’re typically used for cutting smaller branches and limbs.
• Rip Blades: Rip blades have teeth that are angled perpendicular to the handle, which makes them better suited for cutting with the grain of the wood. They’re typically used for cutting larger logs and branches.
• Combination Blades: As the name suggests, combination blades offer the best of both worlds. They have teeth that are angled towards the handle on one side and perpendicular on the other, making them versatile enough to handle a variety of cutting tasks.

Handle Materials: Comfort and Durability in the Wilderness

The handle of your bushcraft saw is another important factor to consider. It should be comfortable to hold, even after extended use, and durable enough to withstand the rigors of the outdoors. Here are a few of the most common handle materials you’ll encounter:

• Wood: Wooden handles are comfortable to grip and can be customized to fit your hand. However, they may not be as durable as other materials and can be prone to cracking or splitting over time.
• Plastic: Plastic handles are lightweight and durable, making them a popular choice for many outdoor enthusiasts. They may not be as comfortable to hold as other materials, but they’re typically very affordable.
• Rubber: Rubber handles provide a good grip, even in wet or slippery conditions. They’re also comfortable to hold and can be very durable. However, they may be more expensive than other handle materials.

Saw Size and Weight: Balancing Portability and Cutting Power

The size and weight of your bushcraft saw will also play a role in how well it performs in the outdoors. A larger saw will typically be more powerful and able to cut through larger logs and branches, but it will also be heavier and more cumbersome to carry. A smaller saw, on the other hand, will be more portable but may not have as much cutting power.

When choosing a saw, it’s important to find the right balance between size and weight. Consider the types of tasks you’ll be using your saw for, as well as how far you’ll need to carry it, to determine the best size and weight for your needs.

Folding vs. Fixed Blade Saws: Which One is Right for You?

One of the biggest decisions you’ll need to make when choosing a bushcraft saw is whether to go with a folding or fixed blade design. Both types have their pros and cons, so it’s important to weigh them carefully before making a decision.

Folding saws are typically more portable than fixed blade saws since they can be folded up and easily stored in a backpack or gear bag. They’re also generally safer to carry, since the blade can be folded away when not in use. However, folding saws may not be as durable or as strong as fixed blade saws, and they may not be able to handle heavy-duty cutting tasks.

Fixed blade saws, on the other hand, are typically stronger and more durable than folding saws. They’re often designed with larger, more powerful blades that can handle heavy-duty cutting tasks with ease. However, they can be more cumbersome to carry, and the blade is always exposed, which can be a safety concern.

Different types of Bushcraft Saws

Choosing the best bushcraft saw requires an understanding of the different types of saws available and how they can benefit your needs.

1. Folding Saw

Folding saws are one of the most popular types of bushcraft saws. They are compact and lightweight, making them easy to carry in a backpack or pocket. Folding saws typically have a blade that folds into the handle for safe storage and transport.

Folding saws come in a variety of blade lengths and tooth patterns, which can affect their cutting ability. Generally, they are ideal for cutting through smaller branches and logs. Some folding saws have aggressive teeth for cutting through thicker branches, while others have finer teeth for smoother cuts.

2. Bow Saws

Bow saws are another type of bushcraft saw that has been used for centuries. A bow saw is a type of frame saw that features a long, straight blade attached to a frame that is shaped like a bow. The main benefit of bow saws is their ability to cut through larger pieces of wood quickly and efficiently. However, they are larger and heavier than other types of bushcraft saws, making them less portable.

3. Pocket Chainsaw:

Pocket chainsaws are compact saws that consist of a chain with cutting teeth that is attached to two handles. They are designed to be compact and portable, so the saw can easily fit into a backpack or pocket.

Pocket chainsaws are very effective at cutting through branches nearly a foot in diameter. To use a pocket chainsaw or wire saw, you wrap the chain around the branch or material you want to cut and pull the handles back and forth to make the cut.

4. Wire Saw:

Wire saws are similar to pocket chainsaws, but instead of a chain, the wire saws are made of a length of wire with teeth or abrasive particles. They are very lightweight and can be rolled up for easy storage. The wire design limits wire saws to cutting smaller branches. Since the wire can break or become damaged over time, wire saws are not as durable as other types of bushcraft saws. However, they are an excellent choice for ultralight backpacking or emergency situations.

Each type of saw has its own advantages and disadvantages, so it is important to consider your needs when selecting a saw. When deciding on the best bushcraft saw for you, make sure to consider the portability, field serviceability, comfort, construction quality, and blade material/teeth composition of the saw. Ultimately, understanding these factors will help you make the best choice.

What is the difference between a folding saw and a pocket chainsaw?

The primary difference between folding saws and pocket chainsaws is their design and mechanism for cutting. Folding saws feature a saw blade that is typically hinged and folds into the handle, whereas pocket chainsaws consist of a chain with cutting teeth that is attached to two handles.

Folding saws come in a variety of sizes, with larger ones being better for cutting thicker branches and smaller ones being ideal for more precise cuts. Pocket chainsaws are great for cutting through thicker branches and logs, but they are not as precise as folding saws.

Maintenance and Care: Keeping Your Saw Sharp and Ready to Go

No matter which type of saw you choose, it’s important to take good care of it to keep it performing at its best. This means keeping the blade sharp and properly lubricated, as well as storing the saw in a dry, protected area when not in use. Here are some simple steps to keep your saw in top condition:

1. Clean the saw after each use. Use a damp cloth to remove debris from the blade, and also from the handle, if it’s made of wood.
2. Sharpen the blade regularly. A sharp blade is essential for efficient cutting and reduces the risk of injury. There are various methods for sharpening saw blades using files and stones, but you can also take it to a professional sharpener if you don’t feel confident in your own skills.
3. Inspect the saw for any signs of wear or damage. Look for broken teeth, loose screws, and warping of the blade. Repair or replace any parts that are not in working order.
4. Store the saw in a dry place. This will help prevent rust and other damage caused by moisture.
5. Oil the blade periodically. This will help keep it in good condition and also make it easier to cut with.

Sharpening your saw blade can be a bit tricky, especially if you’re not experienced with sharpening tools. One option is to take your saw to a professional for sharpening, but this can be expensive and time-consuming. Another option is to invest in a sharpening tool designed specifically for saw blades, which can make the process much easier and more affordable.

Taking proper care of your bushcraft saw helps to ensure it will perform its best in the field.

Final Thoughts About Bushcraft and Survival Saws

Choosing the best bushcraft saw requires careful consideration of several factors, including blade type, handle material, saw size and weight, folding vs. fixed blade design, and maintenance and care. It’s an important piece of bushcraft gear that is useful for a variety of bushcraft and building tasks.By weighing these factors carefully, you can select a saw that’s well-suited to your needs and will provide reliable performance in the great outdoors.

FAQs about Bushcraft Saws

Q: How do I maintain my bushcraft saw?

Answer: To maintain your bushcraft saw, make sure to clean it after each use, oil the blade to prevent rust, and store it in a dry place.

Q: Can I use a regular saw for bushcraft?

Answer: While a regular saw can be used for bushcraft, it is not ideal. Bushcraft saws are designed specifically for outdoor use and are more durable and portable than regular saws.

Q: How long should my bushcraft saw blade be?

Answer: The length of the blade you choose will depend on what tasks you will be using it for. A longer blade will allow you to cut through larger logs, while a shorter blade will be more portable.

Q: What’s the best blade type for a bushcraft saw?

Answer: The best blade type for your saw will depend on the types of tasks you’ll be using it for. Crosscut blades are generally better for smaller branches and limbs, while rip blades are better for larger logs and branches. Combination blades offer the best of both worlds and are often a good choice for general bushcraft tasks.

Q: Can folding saws handle heavy-duty cutting tasks?

Answer: Folding saws may not be as strong or durable as fixed blade saws and may not be able to handle heavy-duty cutting tasks as well. However, they’re typically more portable and easier to carry, making them a good choice for lighter cutting tasks.

Q: Can I sharpen my bushcraft saw blade myself?

Answer: Yes, you can sharpen your bushcraft saw blade yourself using a saw file or a sharpening stone.

If you’ve made the mistake of leaving your trail cameras hanging on the same tree from opening day until post-rut then it’s time to start looking at the calendar and designing a better trail camera strategy for different seasons.

Please note this trail camera placement strategy guide does not give exact dates due to our global customer base and that every region is a little different. Shoot, even Northern and Southern deer hunters in the States will have different time schedules when they move trail cams, but you get the point!

Early Spring Trail Camera Strategies

Even if you like to track spring gobblers during this time of year (and who doesn’t), you can still kick off your trail camera tour. The only thing needed is a little attractant to get the ball rolling. For the most part, this includes one ingredient – salt.

Not only are minerals a good attractant, but introducing an intruder into the area is a great way to arouse a buck’s interest. This can be accomplished with a licking branch and some natural, pre-orbital gland secretions.

As soon as the leaves start to gobble up, the landscape buck antlers will start growing, and they will naturally seek out salt and other minerals. Whitetail does and fawns will also be attracted to these sites, and capturing them on camera is a great way to determine how many new deer have been added to the herd as well as how many does are in the area. This info will be precious in a few short months when the rut kicks in.

Doe bedding areas or suspected big buck hideouts are great locations to start mineral sites in early spring. Look for pinch points and funnels that will drive deer to your salt block and, ultimately, your trail camera. If you live in agricultural areas, then field edges are a great place to start. Once travel routes have been revealed, you can always choose to delve deeper into cover and start a new mineral site to get closer to bedding or staging areas.

Summer Trail Camera Strategies

By now, your food plot should be in full swing. If so, a trail camera set up along the fringes would be a great way to capture that nocturnal buck who only hits the fields at night. In areas where baiting is legal, trail cameras could be set up over bait to get the same results.

Either way, food will be the primary driving force for deer movement, so it only makes sense to hang your trail camera in areas where deer will be feeding. Summer is also a good time to consider staking out a water source with your trail camera to help deer movement. Don’t dismiss the value of a central hub of H2O in your hunting area. Hang that trail camera.

On a side note, this is also a great time to conduct a trail camera survey if you have a private tract of land you will be hunting on. It’s hands-down the best way to monitor your deer herd population. You’ll be able to estimate your deer density, fawn recruitment, sex ratio, the age structure of your bucks, and more.

Early Fall Trail Camera Strategies

As I eluded to earlier, things change. Those locations that proved so good in early and late summer are now proving to be different. This is simply due to changes in food and cover. Leaves are turning and falling, and deer are ready to find alternate food sources – like acorns!

In addition, testosterone is gradually starting to build in male deer. This causes a variety of behavioral changes, which will ultimately change deer movement and sightings. To keep up with these changes, you must move your trail cameras.

Food sources can change throughout the course of a season, so become familiar with all types, especially those that appear naturally in your hunting area.

Food can still be a hot ticket, but bedding areas, travel routes, and staging areas are usually where you will find a lot of buck movement. Some of the images you capture will be in daylight but expect many of them to occur under cover of darkness. That’s just the nature of the beast when you’re dealing with mature bucks.

Nevertheless, you can’t formulate a plan of attack until you get confirmation a big buck is in the area – day or night. So start by capturing the image first, then move on.

Pre Rut/Rut Trail Camera Strategies

Things get hectic during this time frame as bucks move with reckless abandonment, looking for a hot doe. In the weeks leading up to the actual breeding phase, bucks will leave a bevy of signs announcing their aggression and intentions. Look for that sign and consider hanging your favorite trail camera somewhere nearby.

Once the actual breeding begins, you can expect a drop in mature buck movement as they are pushing does into more secluded areas to not only avoid the pressure from other bucks but the onslaught of hunting pressure as well. Your trail cameras and treestands should be moved as well.

I like pinch points, oak flats, logging roads, secluded ridge top saddles, field edges, and the fringes of doe bedding areas or anywhere else the females congregate. A camera hung somewhere along my entry, and the exit route means I can check it on days that I hunt without disturbing the bucks I am chasing before the hunt. This also allows me to decide if the area I am hunting is worth returning to or if I should pull up the stakes and move on.

Post Rut/Winter Trail Camera Strategies

Everything old is new again as the urge to breed is over, and the focus once again shifts to food. And while you may want to keep a few cameras hanging over remaining food sources, it wouldn’t hurt to keep one in the areas you used during the rut. There is always the chance that the buck you’re after hasn’t given up hope and is still searching for love. Only your trail camera will tell you if that is the case or not.

In addition, this is a great time to conduct an end-of-the-season or winter trail camera survey. With deer searching for food, you’ll be able to get a tally of the bucks that made it through the year, as well as an understanding of your property’s deer density, buck to doe ratio, age structure, and more. Just like the trail camera survey you should run in late summer, this information is critical to understanding how you should approach the upcoming season.

Conclusion

Deer movement is one of the most important keys to getting the most out of your trail camera. Adjust your trail camera strategies to match each phase of the whitetail season, and you will gain a plethora of knowledge that will ultimately lead to more filled tags. The trick is finding a way to manage all of that trail camera knowledge and data. Once that happens, all of the puzzle pieces will start to fall into place—best of luck.

PS – If you’re using trail cameras and haven’t tried DeerLab’s trail camera photo management service, we invite you to sign-up for our free 30-day trial. We think it will completely change the way you view trail camera photos.

The number of surf casters and light tackle enthusiasts casting soft plastics for striped bass is increasing each season. Whether the application is a weedless bait on light tackle in the early season or rigged on a jig head for a summer night in the surf we see more use of soft plastics now than ever. Along with the advances in soft baits themselves have come innovations in rigging soft plastics for striped bass.

Wide Variety of Shapes and Sizes

The popularity and innovation stem in large part from the versatility of soft plastics. There are a wide variety of profiles with soft, pliable bodies that produce a life-like action. Some argue that the supple materials also give soft plastics a better mouth-feel than hard lures. The benefit being that the gamefish would be less likely to let go immediately after striking. Also, many manufacturers impregnate their soft plastics with scents of bunker and sand eel when creating baits to target striped bass and other northeast gamefish. In the simplest terms there are three designs used in saltwater:

• Jerk Baits with inline tails of various shapes. When fishing jerk baits the rod tip creates the action, and it is more subtle.

• Paddle Tails with a wide flat tail oriented horizontally to the body of the bait. Paddle tails are a much more active bait, and the design of the bait creates the action.

• Grub Tails or pigtails also have a lot of action and are used in smaller soft plastics and to enhance a bucktail jig. Very popular in freshwater.

Beyond this point, there are a dizzying amount of options and would require a series of articles to scratch the surface.

Pre- Rigged Soft Plastic Options

Anglers can purchase some soft plastics pre-rigged on a jig head; examples include the Savage Gear Sandeel and the Ron Z Original Soft Baits.

Also, some baits like the Hogy Slow Tailand the Tsunami Swim Shads that have the weight molded into the bait. If you are just getting into soft plastics one of these options might be the place to start. These baits are optimized for action and casting efficiency and eliminate the trial and error of matching hooks and heads with different baits.

Rigging Options for Soft Plastics

Centering Pin Springs are a simple way of attaching the hook to the head of a soft plastic bait. Rigged right these can be tossed in skinny water and are effectively weedless.

The Owner Beast Hooks are popular for this application as are the center pin hooks developed for Albie Snax. Worm Hooks also create a weedless presentation through simple rigging, and the length helps stiffen the body of the lure which allows for better casts. So anglers will make a few turns with tying thread behind the hook eye to create a surface to apply Zap A Gap Thin just before they permanently seat the hook in the bait. The Mustad Big Bite Soft Plastic Hook is a popular choice for this application. Here’s our selection of swimbait hooks.

Additionally, there is an assortment of jig heads on which to secure your bait, you may prefer one or another based on hook strength, size, the preferred method of attachment or color. MagicTail Kill Shotshave been among our more popular due to its heavy 8/0 hook and with a ridged collar designed to provide a secure attachment. The Jeck’s Bullet Bucktail has built a strong following in short order in part because the rear of the jig head is flat allowing a flush fit with the bait. This improves durability, and the flush fit positively impacts castability. With any jig head, it’s a good idea to super glue the area used to secure the soft plastic to the jig. Here’s our selection of jig heads.

Soft Plastic Rigging Tips

Let’s address a common challenge when rigging soft plastics for any gamefish regardless of the hook and method selected. That is “Where to enter the bait to ensure it swims properly?” Ideally, you do not want to pull the plastic off the hook/ jighead repeatedly in an attempt to get it right, but an improperly rigged soft plastic will twist on the retrieve creating an unnatural action in the water and sending the twists up your line causing “wicked tangles” in your braid in the future. The first step is to lay the hook or jighead on top of the plastic, to see where the hook and ultimately the bend would exit the body with the bait snug to the head while maintaining a straight but not overly stretched bait. Mark that point either with your forefinger and thumb or some anglers nick that location using the hook point to maintain orientation.

Rigging Weightless Soft Plastics

When rigging a weightless hook, you want to start and stay in the center of the bait until you reach the target location and then exit the bait through the center as well. Staying on the center line is all the more critical with unweighted hooks.

Rigging Jig Heads

When using a jig head hold the bait with your thumb and forefinger start in the center and thread the body onto the jighead, pushing the hook through the marked point and continuing to slide the bait forward until it contacts the jig head. If you have a flush connection a little Zap A Gap at the juncture will enhance durability.

A Word of Caution When Rigging Jig Heads

Many jigheads have some type of retention ridges or hooks to secure the soft plastic. Some excellent examples are the Z-Man TT Headlockz HD, Hogy Barbarian Jig Hook and Mustad Elite Bullet Jig Head; but with some materials or on smaller, thinner profile baits these retention methods can split and ruin the bait. So be mindful of using a strong hook with a bulky retention method with smaller and harder plastics as they may split. Probably the perfect time for a jig head with a bare hook utilizing the thread and super glue method described above or one of the jig heads from Owner mentioned above. At the end of the day when rigging soft plastics, “practice makes perfect.” Now more than ever, you can rig a soft plastic bait easily and for just about any surf or light tackle situations.

By Chris Madson

It was a hurricane. A hurricane 900 miles from the nearest ocean, on the ragged edge of winter with the thermometer hovering just above zero. The day the storm hit, and the night that followed, Dale Engler of Alma, Wisconsin, was out on Crooked Slough, a backwater on the Mississippi River about 50 miles southeast of Saint Paul, Minnesota. The memory still haunted him decades later. “I am very thankful that all I got out of that ordeal was frost-bitten feet and hands, frozen ears,” he wrote in 1963. “I’m not counting all the nightmares I had the first few years after that day. In every single one, I’m still in that icy water, getting weaker and weaker, swimming toward a dark, snow-covered shore that is never there.”

The storm was born in the gray expanse of the north Pacific, a low-pressure system that raised gale warnings along the West Coast during the night of November 6, 1940, and into the next morning. It roared up the Columbia River to buffet the Tacoma Narrows suspension bridge. The bridge’s central span began to sway, and the wind accentuated the motion, like a kid pumping a playground swing. Just after 11 o’clock in the morning on November 7, the supporting cables gave way, and the wreckage of the bridge fell into the water 190 feet below.

The next afternoon, the system collided with the western edge of a mass of arctic air sagging down from Canada over the central plains. It was the first cold of the approaching winter. The storm skirted the edge of the front, drifting southeast into Colorado, strengthening slightly, and then swinging north along the eastern edge of the cold air. By then, a wall of frigid air stretched from Wichita, Kansas, to northern Iowa, and ahead of the cold front, a mass of warm air from the Gulf of Mexico surged up the Mississippi River Valley. Around seven o’clock on the morning of November 11, Armistice Day, as it was known at the time, the storm passed from Iowa into southern Minnesota.

It was the first cold front of the season after a long Indian summer, and it sparked interest among the area’s duck hunters, especially those who were off from work or school because of the holiday. Frank Heidelbauer was a teenager living near Fort Dodge, Iowa. He would later become one of the nation’s premier makers of custom duck and goose calls, but on that morning he was just another young waterfowl hunter looking for birds along Lizard Creek west of town.

“It was foggy with a light drizzle, and warm,” he remembered 40 years later. “I had hunted about three miles of this stretch when a large flock of mallards hooked in out of the murk and landed almost in front of meI took about two steps and they were back in the air and I folded one for each of my three shots. It was while I was picking up these ducks that the wind suddenly thundered down on me out of the northwest.

“In all my days I can’t recall such a rapid change in weather. With the wind came an almost unbelievable drop in temperature, and the drizzle changed to heavy wet snow. Where there were no ducks before, the creek was now full of them, and they were obviously worn out.”

That’s how it was along the prairie creeks in central Iowa. But as the storm continued north it became much more dangerous.

The center of low pressure passed almost 200 miles west of Chicago, but the Windy City and Lake Michigan were not spared. The wind mounted steadily from sunrise through the rest of the day, pummeling the area with gusts over 60 miles an hour for much of the afternoon. Barometric pressure dropped to 28.23 inches—equivalent to a Category 3 hurricane. The temperature at noon was a balmy 63 degrees. By six o’clock that evening, it had dropped to 26. The gale pushed the water of Lake Michigan to the northeast, causing a drop of 4.8 feet along the lakefront. The Milwaukee airport reported a wind gust of 80 miles per hour. In Minneapolis, the wind rose, and then it started to snow, the first flakes of what would be an accumulation of 16.2 inches in a 24-hour span.

As the storm spun toward the upper Mississippi, scores of duck hunters along the river laid plans to take advantage of the cold front. The weather forecast in the Minneapolis Star Journal on November 10 was terse but promising for a waterfowler: “Snow and Colder Today and Monday.”

At 10 o’clock on the morning of November 11, the thermometer in Winona, Minnesota, stood at 50 degrees. A local weather observer recorded a shift in the wind and watched the temperature drop eight degrees in 15 minutes. Around noon, Engler rowed his skiff across the backwaters to an island along the river channel. Like most of the young men along the river at that time, he knew small boats and hunting on the river. It had been raining lightly, so he was wearing a canvas hunting jacket, hip boots over canvas pants, and a wool shirt.

“At 2 o’clock the rain turned into wind-driven sleet and snow and within the next 2 hours I saw more waterfowl than I’ve seen in my life,” he remembered. “About that time some hunters started to go ashore but I thought it was just an early snowstorm and paid no attention, besides, I was having the time of my life.

“Redheads and mallards by the thousands were flying over and on both sides of me. By this time those ducks coming down the river had gusts of a 60 mph tail wind behind them. Hundreds of ducks came past me within 15 feet, probably going around 80 miles an hour. At 3:45 I had 5 mallards and 2 canvasbacks, big plump northern ducks. Now [it was time] to get home and thaw out. Two hunters had been shooting off the south end of the same island I was on. I decided to walk down there and see if they had a big boat. Maybe I could bum a ride across Crooked Slough. Snow was falling so heavily by now that visibility was around 40 feet and it was getting dark. I got to the south area just in time to help both hunters out of the water. Their boat had broached and swamped . . . I saw I didn’t have a chance with my skiff.”

The three men tried to start a fire without success, and Engler decided he would attempt to swim across the backwater and get help. He stashed his shotgun, hip boots, and jacket under his overturned skiff and walked down to the water’s edge.

“I couldn’t see over 30 feet from me as I stepped into the raging water,” he recalled. “The waves were about 3 feet high. Almost every wave was going over my head. I don’t know how long I had been swimming when I bumped into a stump and found I could touch bottom.”

On shore, Engler came across two hunters who had started a large fire. After he had warmed up, he made his way back to his car and drove home, where he called the authorities and reported the position of the two men on the island. “It was the most miserable day I’ve ever lived through,” he wrote, “and I have lived through a few other not-too-comfortable days while serving 38 months in the Pacific with the Navy during World War II. I’ve never been so miserably cold nor felt so close to death as I did in that freezing nightmare.”

Three other young Winona men found themselves in similar circumstances nearby. Ray Sherin, only 14 years old, had gone out to the river around noon with his 20-year-old cousin, Bob Stephan, and 19-year-old Cal Wieczorek. They killed four ducks almost as soon as they hunkered down in the willows, but it quickly became evident that this was no ordinary cold front. Visibility dropped to 30 yards and the temperature was in free fall. They made a run for safety, but with no landmarks visible, they ran aground four times. Then the outboard died. The two older hunters dragged the boat off the mud bar and paddled in the general direction of shore.

The waves drove them onto a low islet. The two men jumped out, but before Sherin could move, a wave broke over the stern and soaked him to the skin. It was clear that they weren’t going to find their way out of the bottoms until the storm abated. Stephan and Wieczorek dragged the boat up out of reach of the waves, turned it over for shelter, and made a bed for the teen, whose clothes were already freezing solid. With no way to build a fire, the three huddled under the boat and waited for morning.

“The thing I remember best was the unending scream of the wind,” Sherin later said of the experience. “The sound of distant gunshots reached us several times. Far-off yells for help.”

At dawn they launched the boat over the 50-foot shelf of ice that had formed during the night. Heading downwind toward Wisconsin, they ran aground on an ice shelf 100 yards from shore. A skiff from the Corps of Engineers’ launch Chippewa picked them up.

Stephan was hospitalized for a week with frozen hands. Sherin, in far worse shape, spent six weeks in the hospital, fighting the lingering effects of hypothermia and extensive frostbite. He lost 58 pounds and part of one foot before he was released, just in time for Christmas.

Two other teenage boys, Dick Bice and La Vern Rieber, paddled out to a collection of low islands and took cover, waiting for a flight. It wasn’t long in coming. As the first bunch of mallards passed, Rieber killed a drake. He paddled out to retrieve the bird and, when he found that he couldn’t get back to his friend, took shelter on another island. The boys could find no fuel for fires on their separate retreats, and precious little shelter.

When Bice’s father, Ray, came home that evening and heard that his son hadn’t returned, he loaded his 16-foot boat and motor, recruited some help, and hurried out to find the boys. The men tried to launch the boat, but the massive breakers swamped it every time they tried. They finally settled down to wait for a break in the wind.

The next morning, another river man managed to slide a boat over the ice to Rieber’s island just as Ray Bice and his party arrived on the scene. The anxious dad slid his skiff over to his son’s island, where Dick had trampled a ring in the snow as he ran in circles to keep warm. He was plenty cold but unharmed.

Others weren’t so lucky.

Responding to news of the impending cold front, Carl Tarras of Winona gathered up his two sons, 17-year-old Gerald and 16-year-old Ray, along with a friend, Bill Wernecke, for a day of waterfowling on the river. When the wind shifted and intensified, they were cut off from dry land and took what shelter they could find in a stand of cattails. Gerald watched the other members of the party die from hypothermia—Wernecke first, then Ray. Carl held on until moments before rescuers arrived the next morning. Gerald had dug part-way into a muskrat house, the rescuers reported, a last-ditch effort that may well have saved his life.

Many details from other stories are lost forever. On the Wednesday after the storm, the bodies of Saint Paul hunters Roy Johnson and Thomas Cigler were discovered, partly covered with snow, on the shore of the mainland. Their johnboat had apparently been swamped by the waves. They made it to dry land but, soaked to the skin and with the wind-driven snow obliterating any landmarks, they had not found warmth and shelter in time. That same day, a Coast Guard searcher came across the body of Red Wing, Minnesota, resident Joseph Elk on an island in the river. On Thursday, the body of another missing man, Bror Kronberg of Saint Paul, was discovered. Kronberg had managed to get his boat to shore in the teeth of the storm, but searchers found his body under the lee of a haystack nearby, where he’d managed to burrow into the hay before he succumbed to the deepening cold.

Estimates of the total number of deaths vary. The National Weather Service reported that 154 lives were lost. Among those, 69 were crew members on ships and fishing boats lost on Lake Michigan. A headline in the Winona Daily News on the Thursday after the storm read “Death Toll of Hunters to Reach 20.” On Wednesday evening, the LaCrosse Tribune’s headline claimed, “27 Midwest Hunters Dead.” With the news of the desperate conflict in Europe clamoring for attention, a close count of the number of hunters who were actually lost during the storm was never made, but it’s likely that, of the 85 people not drowned in Lake Michigan, more than half were waterfowlers on the upper Mississippi.

Seventy years after the great storm, the children and grandchildren and great grandchildren of people who witnessed it still speak of it in hushed tones. It’s as if they miss something that has largely disappeared from the heartland. The corn country of the upper Midwest has been domesticated. Cut over, fenced, furrowed, converted from prairie and forest to one of the world’s great food factories, it has lost much of its essential nature. But the great weather events remainthe thunderstorms, tornadoes, hail, and blizzards that lie in wait just over the horizon, reminders that some things are still beyond our control.

It takes no great leap of imagination for a modern waterfowler to understand why hunters went out on the big water that day. They were an adventurous lot, that bunch. Like us, they whined about the bluebird days most of their neighbors welcomed, praying instead for a stiff north wind, a threatening sky, and a thermometer in free fall. While the rest of the town retreated to the fireside and drew the curtains tight, they went out to meet the storm and the waterfowl that rode it.

They witnessed a day when the business of men, and even the carnage of war, was overshadowed by the raw power of land and sky. It overcame some of them. For many more, it became the memory of a lifetime. All the wildfowl of a continent seemed to gather on a single arctic gale, the roar of the wind and the rush of wings an anthem to all that was—and still is—wild and free.

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I’ve been fly fishing in southern Virginia for more than 15 years and ever since I first started trolling with my dad from our small 50hp boat when I was 12, I’ve fished with a fish finder.

Picking out the best fish finder for small boats will not only help you find fish more effectively from smaller vessels but also locate and save key areas where fish could be hanging out in the future.

So, it will help you catch fish now, and you can also mark key spots on the river or lake. That way you can always come back and try those spots.

Quick Answer: Best Fish Finders For Small Boats

• 1. Humminbird Helix 5 Series
• 2. Humminbird Helix 7
• 3. Lowrance Hook 2 GPS
• 4. Joywee Phiradar
• 5. Lucky Portable Fish Finder

If you’re looking to find fish and locate habitat, then check out the article below. I’m going to go over some of the best small boat fish finders.

We also have a “Best Fish Finders Overall” article if you’re looking for all types of fish finders.

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What is a Fish Finder?

A fish finder is able to tell you several pieces of information that will be critical for helping you find and catch fish. It’s possible to fish without one, but it can make a world of difference.

Fish finders can tell you the depth of the water and the temperature, along with where the structure, bait fish, and game fish you’re after are. Plus, some different models also have GPS.

Types of Fish Finders

There are several different types of fish finders. Each has its own pros and cons, so you should do careful research before you purchase one, as it may not work well for your style.

So, below I’ll go over a few different kinds to help you figure out which one will work best for you. Check them out and then see which one you can best utilize.

Mountable

These are great because they come with a bracket that’s fixed onto the boat. However, the actual unit can be taken on and off. So, the next morning, it can easily be mounted back on.

This is great for travel or if you have your boat parked outside. You can now take off your electronics and keep them safe inside your house or your truck.

Fixed

If you have a boat that you know will be safe and secure, then a fixed fish finder will be fine. These are great because it’s just one less thing you have to worry about taking on and off the boat at the end of the day.

These are also great if you’ll be fishing in choppy conditions. Since it’s fixed onto the boat, it has a low likelihood of falling off from waves crashing and bouncing off the boat.

Portable

Portable fish finders are great for when you have a smaller boat or a kayak. These can be easily installed before getting to the lake, or right at the water’s edge.

The portability factor makes it easy to transfer to and from your boat and reduces weight. This is great when you’re fishing from a kayak or float tube that may have a weight limit.

Handheld

These are similar to portable fish finders. They can be very easy to travel with and can also be lighter, making them great for use on smaller boats that have a weight limit.

Typically, these aren’t as nice as some of the bigger units that you mount. However, I think you’ll find that these will capture all the information you need and help you catch more fish.

Castable

These are great for shore anglers. Since you’re not actually in the water, you can cast out the transmitter and see the depth, water temperature, and even if there are any fish below the transmitter.

You can also use this when fishing out on boats too. They’re typically not as efficient as some of the handheld models out there, but are a great option for a cheaper model.

When to Use a Fish Finder

You can use a fish finder whenever you want to. Since you can now utilize castable fish finders, anyone can go out to their favorite water and have some sort of idea of what the bottom of the lake looks like.

The only time you may not need one is when you’re floating a shallow or clear river. Typically the water depth will change rapidly, and the only thing you may need to know is the water temperature.

Do You Really Need a Fish Finder?

If you want to go fishing, then you don’t actually need a fish finder. You can find success without one by looking for lay downs and other structure that your naked eye is able to find.

However, it will make a world of difference if you use a fish finder. It can help you locate bait fish, humps, drop-offs, sunken structure, and even schools of game fish.

5 Best Fish Finders for Small Boats

Below, I’ll go over five different products. These are the best fish finders for smaller boats. Kayaks, jon boats, paddleboards, and all other small vessels will be able to utilize the products below.

Check them out and see which one will work the best for your fishing style. Each has its own pros and cons, so take a close look and figure out which one will be the best for you.

1. Humminbird Helix 5 Series

• Pros: Has sonar and comes with a transducer, great value
• Cons: Smaller screen, not as bright, older model

The Humminbird Helix 5 is a great overall fish finder. It can be mounted onto smaller boats and even comes with its own transducer. Setting it up is a breeze.

It has side imaging, down imaging, speed, and GPS. It comes with sonar, water temperature, and a depth indicator, meaning this isn’t just a barebones unit. But, it has everything you need to locate fish.

It comes in at a solid price point, so a beginner angler can purchase this and learn how to use a fish finder properly without having to spend too much on a unit.

Product Specifications

• 5 inch color display
• Dual beam sonar
• 4000 watts power output
• Comes with a transducer
• Broadband CHIRP
• Easy use and set up

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2. Humminbird Helix 7

• Pros: GPS and down imaging
• Cons: No SD card with loaded maps

If you’re looking to take the next step in purchasing a fish finder, then the Humminbird Helix 7 is a great option. It won’t break the bank but it has a solid price point, especially considering what it can do.

With down imaging, this unit can tell you exactly what’s beneath your boat. It’s ideal for fishing in deep lakes, rivers, or in salt water. You can easily tell the water temperature and the depth as well.

The device can give you coverage up to 125 feet, which is more than enough for most anglers out there. If you plan on taking this into really deep salt water, then maybe another unit would be better.

Product Specifications

• 7 inch screen
• Mega down imaging
• 125 feet depth
• Low Q CHIRP transducer
• Dual spectrum CHIRP
• Two display modes
• Includes transducer and mounting hardware

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3. Lowrance Hook 2 GPS

• Pros: Comes equipped with GPS and wide sonar coverage
• Cons: Can have issues with consistent depth readings

If you’re looking for a unit that has GPS capabilities, then this is the one for you. A GPS unit on your boat is great for when you’re fishing big water that may be new to you. This allows you to traverse the lake without getting lost.

The Lowrance Hook 2 is also very easy to use, which makes it ideal for someone who may be new to the world of fish finders. You can easily mount it, set it up, and learn to use it out on the water.

It gives you traditional CHIRP sonar, so you can tell if there is any structure below you. It also tells you the water temperature, depth, and if there are any schools of fish beneath your boat.

Product Specifications

• Auto tuning sonar
• Easy to use menu options
• Wide sonar coverage
• Easy setup
• Mount on transom, hull, or trolling motor
• GPS
• Transducer included in the package

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4. Joywee Phiradar

• Pros: Small and compact size, accurate depth readings
• Cons: Can be a pain to install and set up to a battery

If you’re looking for a great fish finder that can be used on a kayak, then this is the one for you. The Joywee Phiradar is small enough that it won’t add too much extra weight, which is important when kayak fishing.

Installation can be a bit of a pain, but once you have it set up and ready to go, then it’s fine. You can easily paddle around the lake on your kayak utilizing the great work this fish finder does.

It’s extremely accurate and outworks the price, making this another great deal. It’s perfect for someone who doesn’t want to drop a crazy amount of money on a fish finder.

Product Specifications

• 3.5 inch screen
• Depth reading from 1.8 to 900 feet
• Auto zoom tracking
• Bottom contour and temp readings
• Multi-language settings
• Big or small fish indicator
• Dual beam sonar frequency

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5. Lucky Portable Fish Finder

• Pros: Small and easy to use and transport
• Cons: Slow readings and no bells and whistles

For the price, the Lucky Portable Fish Finder is pretty incredible. Don’t expect too much, though, as this is a very barebones fish finder. It will tell you depth, water temp, and fish location. It seems the fish location can be slow sometimes, though.

This can be taken out in just about any type of watercraft you can think of and be utilized. So, if you don’t want to pull the trigger on something crazy expensive, then this is the one for you.

Ideally, this is best suited for a kayak. Since it’s so small and lightweight, it won’t take up much extra space in the boat. It’ll deliver all the essential information you need to catch more fish, but nothing more.

Product Specifications

• Portable
• Streamlined shape
• Real-time water depth
• Background light
• Fish detector
• 328 feet max depth
• Extremely easy to use

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Features of a Good Fish Finder (Particularly Those For Smaller Vessels)

Below, I’ll go over some of the best features of fish finder for small boats. Each has its own pros and cons, so think about what you want and then apply it to the list below.

GPS Integrated

Having GPS on your fish finder can be the ultimate game changer. Most of these have waypoint settings that will allow you to plot exactly where fish have been hanging out or where you think they will be.

It’s also great if you plan on fishing large waterways for the first time. This way you can easily plot your way back to shore or the boat ramp without getting lost.

Cone Angle

The cone angle is the sound generated by the transducer that works its way towards the bottom. The sound wave looks similar to an upside-down ice cream cone.

Some fish finders have a wider cone than others. The wider cone will allow you to see more of the bottom, thus allowing you to see more drop-offs, bait fish, or anything you may want to key in on.

Side Scan vs Down Scan

Side-scan gives you an image of what is on the sides of your boat. It shoots out an image a number of feet and allows you to see a lay down or brush pile that may be off to the side.

Down scan allows you to see directly beneath your boat. This is ideal when fishing in deep water, such as lakes or oceans. It’s especially effective if you plan on jigging beneath your boat.

Mounting Type

The mount type for your fish finder should depend on what type of boat you want to use. A small vessel would do well with one that can be removed or something that’s handheld.

Larger ships do well with fixed units. These are usually locked up and can’t be taken off without power tools and either lifting the boat out of the water or getting in the water to take them off.

Vessel Specific Fish Finders

If you have a small boat, then something that can be easily taken on and off would be great. Also, something small and lightweight would be best because smaller boats can’t handle as much weight.

Larger boats can handle much more weight, so 12 inch screens and large electronics won’t weigh down the boat. These are best when you’re using a larger ship.

Transducer

A good fish finder will have an even better transducer. The transducer will send and receive signals, and it acts as the heart of the echo sound system.

It changes electrical pulses into sound waves and then back again, so that the machine can accurately read what’s beneath the boat.

Display

The display of the fish finder depends on the size as well as the backlight. Some are made to be used in all different lighting conditions, from midnight darkness to the brightest of conditions in the middle of the day.

The size of the screen is also important. The bigger it is, the easier you’ll be able to spot different fish attractors or baitfish on the screen. You’ll need to find a screen that’s large enough to see but not too big to weigh down a smaller boat.

Frequency

Ultrasound frequency usually ranges from 15 kHz to 200 kHz. The majority of fish finders out there usually only have a range of 50 kHz to 200 kHz.

Some expensive or commercial fishing vessels may have a fish finder with a frequency that’s much higher. This isn’t needed for a recreational angler.

Some of My Favorite Fish Finder Brands

If you’d like to know who makes great small boat fish finders, then check out the section below. I cover several different brands that should meet your needs.

Take a close look at each brand before purchase, though. Each has its own pros and cons, and it could hinder your style of fishing if you purchase the incorrect one.

Humminbird

If you want to make the most out of your time on the water, then it’s hard to go wrong with a Humminbird. They have all of the high tech features needed to enhance your fishing experience.

It doesn’t matter what type of water or what type of boat you have. Humminbird makes a fish finder that will help you catch more fish.

Lowrance

One of the best-known names in the world of fishing electronics, Lowrance is regarded as one of the best companies out there in terms of producing high-quality fish finders.

It doesn’t matter the size, color, frequency, or cone angle. Lowrance creates a fish finder that will work perfectly for the style of fishing you plan on doing.

Joywee

Joywee is not a household name the way that Lowrance or Humminbird is. However, they make great fish finders that can be utilized by both professionals and amateurs.

Look to them if you want something that works well but won’t cost an arm and a leg to get. These are great for smaller vessels.

Lucky Fish Finders

Lucky fish finders are in the same vein as Joywee. This a newer company that makes great fish finders. They may not be well known, but they sure do work well.

Most of these are smaller and cheaper, making them ideal for anglers who may be new to the fish finder game and don’t want to spend too much. These are ideal for the angler who uses kayaks, canoes, or float tubes.

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Conclusion

Fish finders are a great way to get you out on the water and improve your chances of catching fish. There’s only so much your naked eye can see, and there’s so much beneath the surface.

The items above are a great start, but feel free to use them as a jumping-off point to help find the right fish finder for you and your way of fishing.

If you want more success on the water, then you need to be using a fish finder. It doesn’t matter by who or how big. As long as you have one, then you’ll catch more fish than you did before.