If you’re the type of waterfowler who feeds your family by hunting 60 days per year, you probably already know by now that HEVI-Shot tungsten may not be the stuff for you because it’s not cheap. You can get 5 orders of Peking duck down at the local Chinese buffet for less. It’s expensive because there are very few tungsten mines in the world, and this ultra-dense metal is a commodity coveted for making everything from competitive darts to turbine blades and rocket nozzles. But the fact is it’s simply superior to steel, and even a fair margin better than lead bird shot. How?

Imagine a tennis ball and a baseball both thrown 90mph by Pedro Martinez. Which one would you rather get beaned with? The tennis ball, of course, because it’s much less dense and results in much less energy when it hits you. I.e. it won’t hurt as much. The same laws of physics apply to shotgun pellets.

Heavy Set

HEVI-Shot’s XII load uses tungsten pellets that measure 12 g/cc (grams per cubic centimeter). Compare that to steel at 7.8 g/cc, then imagine a No. 4 HEVI-Shot pellet and a steel pellet each going 1400 fps. The HEVI-Shot load is like a swarm of our aforementioned baseballs speeding toward that duck, whereas the steel is like the tennis balls. But most of us know this already.

The big advantage of tungsten, however, is that because it’s denser than steel (it’s also denser than lead, Bismuth, and most other materials) the shooter can choose a shot size two to three sizes smaller than comparable steel load and still maintain the same downrange energies. So by choosing a HEVI-Shot No. 4 pellets for geese over No. 1 steel load, for example, shooters are afforded many more pellets per load for denser patterns and more wound channels on the bird. Fact is, denser pellets penetrate deeper and kill quicker.

Tungsten Tested

When I tested HEVI-Shot’s new HEVI-XII shell (3”, 1 1/4-oz. No. 4s) here’s what I found: The load contained an average of 166 pellets that together averaged 583 grains, or 1.33 ounces per payload. (That’s more than advertised.) This payload is touted to travel at 1,450 fps, which equals 2,549 ft.-lbs. energy at the muzzle. Although my actual results were very similar, the inputs differed slightly. From my 28-inch barrel I recorded a mean velocity of 1401, that, when multiplied by a payload mass average of 1.33 ozs, equals 2,541 ft.-lbs. But it’s when the individual pellet energies are compared that the heavier tungsten pellets shine like diamonds in a sea of decoy weights: Consider that the average No. 4 HEVI-XII pellet weighs 3.6 grains; when going 1400 fps it results in 16 ft.-lbs. per pellet! Compare that to a 2.4-grain steel pellet going 1,400 fps for 10 ft.-lbs energy and you can understand where your money’s going.

However, this is where HEVI-Shot also gets a little shaky: I had to use a pellet weight average because, due to the process HEVI-Shot uses to make its tungsten shot, the pellets aren’t uniform. A payload of No. 4 shot contains pellets that individually weigh anywhere from 3.4 grains to 6.6. This leads to my second criticism of HEVI-Shot: It is not known for perfectly uniform patterns, which I suspect is a by-product of the varietal shape and weights of the pellets.

Results from my patterning board bore this out. I achieved best results from a modified choke tube. I must add this observation though: Regardless of how non-uniform the patterns look to my eye, ducks don’t seem to mind. All the HEVI-Shot I’ve used in the past have performed admirably on live game.

As for recoil, it’s academic. A 1¼ ounce payload of steel going 1400 compared to a 1¼-ounce payload of tungsten hurts equally bad by producing around 40 ft.-lbs. free recoil energy from a 7.5-lb. shotgun.

Packed to Perform

HEVI-Shot utilizes a healthy load of flaxseed to serve as buffer from the ultra-hard shot that can ding barrels and choke tubes if the choke is too tight or the load is not properly buffered. While I can’t be sure of flaxseed’s performance as a buffer compared to plastics and silicones used in other loads, frankly I’d rather be shooting natural flax seed in my lakes and fields over plastic. Speaking of plastic, HEVI-XII employs a rather simple, 4-petal, 50-grain plastic wad. The load is available in 12-gauge, 20-gauge and, interestingly, 28-gauge in size 2 (12-gauge only) 4 and 6.

HEVI-Shot’s new XII product differs from past HEVI-Shot tungsten shells mainly in that it is packaged in boxes of 25. At around $50 for a box, certainly they cost more than the 10-round boxes, but packaged as such they cost less per shell. Look, I’ve killed my share of ducks, but I also know that regardless of what shell I’m using, sometimes birds refuse to die. More times than I care to admit I’ll empty my gun at a bird only to wing it before it skims down 60 yards out, where I’ll have to shoot it 5 more times on the water. Perhaps you’re better than me, but boxes of 10 just don’t cut it.

In sum, HEVI-Shot’s new HEVI-XII load is far superior to nearly all duck loads that utilize less dense material. If you choose it, you’ll get the added advantage of choosing smaller shot sizes for denser patterns whose individual pellets hit hard. Trust me, you’ll be able to see that difference in the field. You’ll also feel it in your wallet, but that’s just it. New HEVI-XII is expensive to be sure, but in 25-round boxes it’s not as bad as it used to be. What waterfowler can’t appreciate that?

Muzzleloaders are single-shot firearms that differ from modern weapons in that you have to load each round manually through the barrel. There are no rounds or casings, but you do use primers, powder, a slug, and wadding. The challenge of hunting with a muzzleloader is that you only have one shot, and you best have the skills, accuracy, and tenacity to make that one shot count.

Many states have muzzleloader seasons and those who love the thrill of the muzzleloader hunt. You can target birds, waterfowl, deer – white-tailed deer, antlerless deer, antlered deer, and even a black bear. You are pretty much talking accuracy at less than 100 yards and that means that a muzzleloader deer hunter is going to have to be fairly skilled at getting close to deer. You can check your state’s game agency to see if a muzzleloading hunting season exists for you.

Why Hunt with a Muzzleloader?

Why not? There is a great challenge in hunting with a muzzleloader. For deer season, you have got to know the target – from antlered bucks to antlerless deer – you will need to get close, and that means growing as a hunter to understand the terrain. You’ll also need to understand the species of deer and improve your ability to stay unrecognized in the natural world. Plus, there is the challenge of being able to make a single shot count. It takes great skill to get close enough to deer to take them down without a modern weapon. Hunting with a muzzleloader includes:

The Traditional and challenging method of hunting – you’ve got to be accurate because you have only one shot. That means you have to know your prey, and the environment where you hunt, and have the skills to make your one shot pay off.They are Quieter and less expensive than modern firearms – Expect most muzzleloaders to fire in the 160-decibel range, which can be quieter than a modern rifle.Early deer hunting season for most states – the muzzleloader season generally starts earlier making it less crowded and the targets are not as aware. Some states, such as California, offer muzzleloader hunters events, and some have seasons where the events are mixed with archery. You still need a hunting license but leave the centerfire rifle at home.Do People Still Hunt with Muzzleloaders?

Muzzleloader hunting is an elite sport. It is a natural progression – in a backward fashion – and a spot for folks who are good at hunting to end up. It is one thing to take down deer or bears with a modern weapon. You can, after all, plink a few rounds off quickly even if you are not toting a semi-automatic. But the thrill of muzzleloading is not in just reaching your bag limit on a single afternoon. It is the challenge of being good enough at hunting to come home with game that you had to work at to get.

Muzzleloader Hunting vs Other Methods

Archery is perhaps the method of hunting that comes closest to muzzleloader hunting. That is purely because you have to be good enough at hunting to get close to your target. It is also a slower reload than other options.

Hunting with a modern rifle or handgun is much easier than hunting with a muzzleloader, simply because the second shot is much faster than with a muzzleloader. Modern rifles also have a longer and more accurate range, meaning that your hunting skills can be subpar, and you will still likely get a shot in even if it is a longer distance.

Make no mistake, skill is required for all of these options, but tracking, setting up stands, and stalking prey are a lot more difficult if you have to get within 100 yards of your target – and truthfully, more like 50-75 yards.

Regulations and Restrictions

Regulations vary by state. Many states offer muzzleloader events or seasons for hunters, especially those hunting deer and elk. Some events are populated drawings, and states like California often have better odds. It is important to check with your local hunting bureau to understand the regulations where you hunt and where you plan to hunt. Regulations also exist based on state and local laws, such as in California where you cannot hunt with lead bullets.

Muzzleloader Accuracy and Range

The distance that a muzzleloader can shoot accurately is a variable. Suffice it to say that with an old version of a muzzleloader, and all the stars aligned, you might hit a target 100 yards away. That’s a big “might.” Some modern inline muzzleloaders extend that range to 200 yards. Still, there is a lot between what can and what will happen.

Factors That Affect Muzzleloader Accuracy

Aiming – Don’t be surprised if part of your local regulations for muzzleloader hunting involves, or rather, restricts the use of modern sights such as scopes. Aiming the muzzleloader is one of the biggest issues with accuracy. You will need to dial in the type of sights (iron sights) on the muzzleloader.

Loads – Being able to pour a consistent load is important. Whether you are using black powder or smokeless powder, getting a consistent load will improve your accuracy. Too much powder, too little powder, not tamping down the bullet accurately, and other factors impact how well the bullet leaves the barrel. Flintlock or percussion cap muzzleloaders – sometimes called percussion cap rifles – will both have improved accuracy when you produce uniform loads and clean the fouling from the barrel.

Fouling – There is a lot of residue left around after you fire a bullet from a muzzleloader. Junior hunters can improve their accuracy by learning how to keep the barrel clean.

Barrel Length – Muzzleloaders come with a variety of lengths for barrels. Keep a consistent barrel length as this is one of the critical factors in rifles of all makes and models.

How to Improve Muzzleloader Accuracy

1. Shoot the gun as often as possible. Understanding its nature is one of the best ways of correcting accuracy issues that involve stress, fear, and other common shooting issues.

2. Practice loading the gun so that each load is as close to even as possible. Hunting with a muzzleloader is not the same as being in a war with one. Accurate loads mean the gun is less likely to foul and drop accuracy. This also means that you can reload faster without loading errors.

3. Cleaning the barrel – Make sure you can quickly and accurately clean the barrel. Being good at field cleaning the gun is essential because a clean barrel means you are back in the hunt.

Shot Placement and Effectiveness

You might be wondering where to aim when shooting a deer with a muzzleloader. When hit behind the front shoulder, your bullet travels across the shoulders, the heart, and the lungs. The angle of that shot will change based on your angle to the deer. Visualize that path and take your aim so that the bullet travels across the heart and lungs.

The best spot to shoot a deer with a muzzleloader is the heart. That is a deadly shot, and it is fairly instant.

How long do you wait after shooting a deer with a muzzleloader before going after it? The general rule of thumb is about half an hour. If you know that you have not mortally wounded the deer, then wait a few minutes. What you want to avoid is dealing with an injured animal that has the fight part of the flight or fight in place.

What are the 3 Types of Muzzleloaders?

Flintlock – A physical flint and steel powder ignition – the flint strikes the frizzen which causes damage to the frizzen and the spark ignites the powder.Percussion Cap – The cap sits over a nipple. When the hammer hits the cap, it causes the mercury-based “powder” to ignite.Inline Modern – the hammer hits either a cap or primer which then ignites the powder in the barrel.

Muzzleloader Maintenance and Safety

Make sure the muzzleloader is unloaded before you begin to clean the gun.

1. Cleaning the barrel is the biggest chore and one that everyone should be able to handle in the field.

2. Home cleaning can be more detailed including cleaning the breach plate or conduit from where the hammer hits and the ignition begins.

3. Use an approved muzzleloader solvent to clean the inside of the barrel. On inline muzzleloaders, you often shoot a copper-jacketed bullet with plastic sabots – those can be tricky to clean because the copper and plastic will cling.

Not all muzzleloaders have a safety. When they do make sure the safety works and then activate the safety before you begin to clean. Keeping your gun clean is one of the best ways to keep accuracy high.

Muzzleloader Bullets from Berry’s

To recap the benefits of hunting with a muzzleloader remember that hunting skills are repaid when every shot matters. Take the time to learn as hunting with a muzzleloader not only gives you more options for special hunts such as those for thinning button bucks, antlerless deer, hunting on public land or private hunting areas, and a field that has fewer hunters.

In the modern world, hunting successfully with a muzzleloader is a rite of passage. It means that you have to pair hunting skills, accuracy, and patience, plus your knowledge of the target, environment, and changing conditions.

Berry’s offers Blue Diamond 50 caliber 250-grain muzzleloader bullets with a polycarbonate tip and proprietary sabot. Expect a tight fit and improved accuracy with the Blue Diamond 50 Caliber, a 250-grain bullet designed for black powder muzzleloaders. The bullet is appropriate for loads designed for deer, and smaller game, such as feral pigs, and even larger game such as a black bear.

If you’ve been shooting semi-automatic pistols for more than a minute, you’ve inevitably locked the slide to an open chamber position. You have shot to a condition where you have expended all remaining rounds in your magazine and have observed your slide locked to the rearward position. Whether you manually moved the slide into the locked position for an intended purpose, or it was done for you by the cycling of the semi-auto pistol slide, what is the real story behind expediently disengaging a pistol slide stop?

Before jumping right into the technical details, it’s a good idea to first address nomenclature. A slide stop, also referred to as a ‘slide lock’ and in certain cases (some would claim erroneously) a ‘slide release,’ is a functional spring-loaded lever found on most semi-automatic pistols that engages by moving it into a fitted notch located in the slide on the same side as the slide lock.

It is designed to firmly position (lock) a reciprocating pistol slide to the rear of the frame which can be accomplished manually by the shooter physically moving it into place by hand, or by the cycling of the semi-auto pistol slide after the last round of a magazine is fired – colloquially referred to as “shooting to slide lock.”

Technically speaking, upon expending the last and final round of any remaining ammunition in your magazine, the follower (moving magazine part located between your cartridges and magazine spring), depressing the slide stop spring (attached to the frame), presses up against the slide stop and causes it to engage in the slide stop notch cut into the slide which in turn causes the slide to be pinned in the rearward position of the pistol frame presenting an empty chamber.

When the shooter happens to notice slide lock either visually or by feel, it can be considered a positive indicator that there is no more ammo remaining in your handgun prompting the shooter to reload and get the gun back up and running.

Manually speaking the slide stop can be used to either clear a complex operational malfunction, for firearm maintenance or to lock the chamber in the open position allowing for visual and/ /or digital inspection to ensure that the pistol is in fact empty.

In the context of shooting to slide lock, it’s important to get your gun back into action as quickly as possible. The logical conclusion to observing that you have shot to slide lock is to seat another magazine into the magazine well and disengage the slide lock as to place the gun back into full battery.

Inserting and properly seating the magazine is fairly straightforward with few variations, however, disengaging the slide stop is a completely different matter and can be accomplished using varied methods worth discussing in detail.

If you find yourself in mid-motion of firing your gun, and it is the case that you run out of bullets, indicated by shooting to slide lock, then it logically follows that you need to replace the now-empty magazine with a fresh magazine filled, preferably to maximum capacity, with cartridges thereby replenishing your ammunition supply.

The final step to recovering from shooting to slide lock is to disengage the slide lock placing the gun back into battery which can be accomplished expediently and consistently with a handful of varied techniques.

The Claw

Although not the fastest method available to place the slide back into battery, it is favored predominantly by the traditional defensive shooting community. Reason being that applying all four fingers you can work the slide even if you get one of them and/ or your thumb injured in a gunfight. It’s consistent with keeping 6 and 12 alignment in the workbox area therefore not needing to turn the pistol along its bore line axis at any time, conducive to clearing most common operational malfunctions and provides the shooter with yet another option to do a press check to ensure that there is in fact a round in battery if that is part of their standard operational procedure.

The Slingshot

The next most common is the sling shot method which is about the same response time as the claw. Although not really faster or slower it does require that the pistol be turned on its bore line axis that the support hand palm faces the strong hand to initiate the “pinch” or slingshot-like grasp (hence its namesake) utilizing the forefinger and the thumb.

The Slide Lock

Utilizing the slide lock itself to place the firearm back in battery offers the quickest response time. However, as no slick move comes without a price tag, one of the downsides is that if you are using your strongside thumb, based on the size of your hand you may need to reposition the gun in your hand moving the muzzle out of alignment which negates any time you may have saved.

Another potential hazard is of your hands may be cold, oily, sweaty, bloody, etc., which may cause slippage off the slide lock, an inconsistency that could cost valuable time. To bypass this potential hazard several gun parts manufacturers offer third-party oversized slide stops specifically designed with greater contact surface area for a more positive thumb placement. The downside to the oversized single-side or ambi third party slide locks is that if you have a large hand or big, long thumbs, this oversized landing pad can be inadvertently depressed during normal operation and cause a failure to lock back with an empty magazine.

Last but certainly not least is to utilize your support side thumb. Certain agencies and departments that also issue semi-auto AR platform carbines to their employees, train their shooters to hit the bolt catch (locking the bolt carrier assembly to the rear) sending the bolt forward and a round in battery using their support hand thumb. Those same officers are offered the option to employ the same support-side thumb technique to their pistols, therefore maintaining uniform operational consistency between issued shooting platforms.

Given these options and others not listed in the limited space here such as fighting through an injury (employing strong-hand-only and support-hand-only reloads on a belt, holster, boot heel, knees etc.,) the bottom line in disengaging the slide lock is to find that perfect balance between speed and consistency in exchange for an acceptable price tag.

You thought that you knew your hunting and fishing terms, but you were wrong.

Whether you have a fishing rod in your hands, big game hunting, slinging flies, or sharing in an upland hunt, you need to know what your hunting and fishing terms are. Sometimes the English language can fool us into believing that a slang term is actually the real phrase, and vice versa.

We’re declaring it an open season to jump on your hunting buddies and let them know that what they are saying really means something else. Maybe you’re in the bar discussing game birds or bag limits, or maybe you’re talking with your tree hugging cousin who wonders why you’re hunting with an “assault rifle.”

Face it, a lot of us have been using these hunting and fishing terms wrong all this time and didn’t know it. Here’s where the rubber meets the road and you can find out what you’ve been missing.

Keep these in mind when your know-it-all friend starts talking in the blind.

Snort: The sound you make when your buddy swears it was a 10-point that he missed.

Wheeze: The sound you make dragging a deer through the woods.

Grunt: The sound you make when you see that gun you’ve been wanting is discontinued.

Rabbit-in-distress: When you step on your wife’s ankle biting dog’s tail.

Crankbait: That expensive bass boat with all the bells and whistles.

Buzzbait: Those ice cold brewskis in the cooler.

Buck-in-rut lure: That new tight dress your girl is wearing.

Honker: That jerk at the boat launch that’s totally impatient.

High-ball: Whisky or rum?

Swamp donkey: What you call your buddy when his new 4×4 gets stuck.

Tree rat: That dude sitting in your stand.

Smokepole: That stick of salami/pepperoni you put in your backpack.

Kicker: When the kid finds out he can’t go fishing with you.

Kentucky windage: When you aim a little right or left of where you’re trying to walk after too much bourbon at deer camp.

Robin Hood: That dude pitching the timber that can’t miss.

Burn a hole in the yellow: Peeing in the snow.

Glassing: The reason why a dude wears dark sunglasses to the beach with his girl or wife.

Bluebill: What your buddy gets when he falls in the water in January.

Chuckle: What you do before, during, and after your buddy falls in that cold water.

Boar: That dude that can’t stop talking about his skill.

Deep diver: That guy that can’t stop telling fishing lies.

Brow tines: That buddy that always wears his shades on his forehead.

Bull: What you’re thinking when your buddy tells his fishing stories.

Call-shy: When you can’t get up the nerve to call that gal you met at the boat show.

Cape: What your buddy thinks he wears when he scores a nice buck.

Gobbler: What your buddy turns into over that first fresh venison steak of the year.

Confidence decoy: Your pal who’s the wingman tonight.

Cow: What your wingman is helping you to avoid.

Pointer: That dude your friend brought along that wants to try every spot he sees.

Furbearer: What you didn’t know about that guy until he took his shirt off at camp.

Shaker: Your buddy when he sees a buck.

Greenhead: What your buddy gets when your buck is bigger.

Gutshot: That feeling you get when the neighbor scores the buck you’ve been hunting all year.

Inside spread: The distance between you and the other guy working a shoreline.

Jump shoot: When you come up too fast to another angler working a spot.

Limb saver: When your friend helps you drag your deer.

Locator call: When you have to call from the driveway to wake your buddy up early because he stayed out too late.

Pass shoot: What that one buddy seems to do every time you kick a deer by him.

Quiver: Every time that same guy sees a deer.

Shed: What your wallet does every time you go into the hunting/fishing store.

Trapline: That aisle in the outdoor store where everything is marked 50% off.

Shock gobble: What your wife does when you get home from the hunting/fishing store.

Butt out tool: What you say to that friend who wants to know where you caught that bucket of crappie.

There’s a method to our madness when it comes to the outdoor phrases that we use every day. The big fish that got away is usually just a couple of words from the real definition and you didn’t even know it. Now you have the ammunition to block out that one loud guy in your group and make sure that when the trap closes, it’s just his mouth you’re talking about!

You may even be able to get around the game warden with some of this wily jargon, but don’t bet on it. The next time that you’re on a fishing trip or out with the long bow remind your buddy that sometimes a diving duck is really just that thing you do when the guy in the front of the boat casts without looking behind him!

You’ll be better off for it.

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What’s the most diverse group of guns in use by the world’s military forces?

It’s not rifles, or machine guns, or submachine guns, or even shotguns. Most successful long-gun fall into just a few different designs.

When you see oddball service rifles, you often see them plagued by issues of all kinds I.E. the INSAS, the FAMAS, the SA-80, and even the G36 have all had their problems.

The most diverse group of military weapons are handguns, aka sidearms. Even within certain countries, pistols can be diversely issued depending on the unit and mission.

Sometimes pistols are such a second thought they are a mishmash of different guns.

For example, see Israel at the near end of this list. Another challenge is how countries outside of Western Europe equip their military forces. In the Western World, there is a big move towards standardization that’s not present with other countries.

Several countries also don’t put out a press release when they purchase or adopt a new handgun, making it difficult to verify the information.

To be entirely fair, sidearms are just a step above bayonets on the necessity of military equipment priorities. Most countries issue them in small numbers to officers and specialists.

I put my best foot forward to come up with a comprehensive list of the sidearms from around the world. It was a little harder than I initially thought, but the research was still fascinating and fun.

With all this in mind, I’ve tried my hardest to verify the issuance of every firearm on this list. I set my parameters to general issue sidearms.

Some Special ops teams may use something different than the standard forces, and trying to catalog these weapons along with general sidearms would take several articles.

For example, the United States military alone issues the Beretta M9, the M17/18, the MEU/SOC 1911, the SIG P226, the M11A1, the P229R, the Glock 34, Glock 17, Glock 19, Glock 22, and many more we’ve likely never seen. It’s much more reasonable to focus on the general issue sidearms of these military forces.

Since several military forces have adopted the same gun, we’ll group those together to simplify things.

1. United States – SIG P320 Designated the M17/18

I was lucky enough to be at SHOT Show when it was announced that the SIG P320 would be adopted for military service with the U.S. Army. Needless to say, the folks at the SIG booth were quite excited.

The P320, designated the M17 and M18, was adopted in 9mm in full size (M17) and compact (M18) variants. The M17/18 series are quite advanced for military sidearms and feature red dot optics compatibility. Although red dots have not been issued as far as I know.

Like the P320 the ability exists to move the serialized fire control group to different grip modules. The military is quite strict with serial numbers and if the military allows the issued troop to choose a grip module they could get a gun that fits them. One size fits all is rarely a good idea.

Of course, the U.S. Military is nanny like and included a manual safety. In reality, more training would be more beneficial than a manual safety, but who am I to judge big army.

The M17 has since been adopted by the Air Force, the Navy, and the Marines. The M17 is currently being issued to combat arms units first in the U.S. Army. The Army plans to replace every M9 within ten years with an M17/18.

2. Commonwealth Club – The Browning Hi-Power

Canada, Australia, Bahrain, India, Thailand

The Browning Hi-Power is the European 1911.

What I mean by that is its popularity and longevity in military service. The Hi-Power has been used by just about everybody and in only the last few years have more modern designs replaced it.

The Hi-Power was one of the first high capacity 9mms that entered regular service. It’s a single action only weapon with a manual safety and a 13 round magazine. The Hi-Power is a beautiful gun that is robust and reliable.

It’s close to 100 years old and is still seeing war.

It’s one of the few guns to see action on both sides of WW2 in service with numerous Allied Forces, including the British, and in the hands of Germans. The Hi-Power is an excellent firearm and was a final fitting design for John Browning.

Its legacy of service across the world is nearly unmatched. Much like the sun never sets on the British empire, the sun doesn’t set on the Hi-Power. While it’s been produced mostly in Europe, the gun is also widely built in South American factories as well.

It’s been heavily used in Europe, the Middle East, Asia, and South America. From imported goods to domestic production copies, the Hi-Power is a legend in small arms design.

It’s currently the issued sidearm of Commonwealth countries like Canada and Australia, and as far out as India and Thailand.

3. 20+ Nations – The Glock 17, 19, and 34.

The United Kingdom, Sweden, Austria, Finland, Malaysia, Mexico (Navy), Montenegro, The Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Switzerland, Yemen, Venezuela, Uruguay, India, and many more.

It would seemingly be easier to make a list of countries the Glock 9mm series doesn’t serve in. The weapon seems to be everywhere in the world.

Why not? The 9mm Glocks are the flagship of their handguns, and the only difference between the 17, 19, and 34 is barrel and grip length.

Glock 9mm pistols are legendary for their rugged and reliable design. These superbly simple guns work, and keep working. On top of that, Glock has logistics nailed with supplies and spare parts out the yin yang.

Generation wise it appears that Gen 3 and Gen 4 models are the most popular variants in the military market. The Glock series also seems to be the most popular choice in countries where Spec Ops have more leeway in choosing a handgun.

The Glock series of firearms are popular the world over for a good reason. They are accurate, easy to use, highly reliable, lightweight, and cheap. The price Glock sells their guns to Police Forces is criminally low, and I imagine the price for military forces is even smaller.

Penny pinchers often give a big say when it comes to new guns, and price always matters. Glock makes their weapons affordable while being high quality. As far as military sidearms go the Glock 17 will likely remain the most popular choice for some time to come.

If you want to get your own Glock, you should take a look at some of these articles:

• Best Glock (All Sizes & Calibers)
• Best 9mm Glock
• Best Glock Upgrades

4. Germany, Ireland, Greece, and Spain – The HK U.S.P.

I love the HK U.S.P. It’s one of my favorite DA/SA guns, and that’s saying a lot. The U.S.P., or universal self-loading pistol, is Heckler and Koch’s premier handgun design.

It’s a fascinating gun and while 9mm is the chosen NATO cartridge the USP was one of the first guns built around the 40 S&W. The gun was also chambered in 357 SIG, and later 45 A.C.P.

The U.S.P. stood apart from other polymer-frame guns of the time due to its mechanical recoil reduction system. This system is implemented with a heavy captive coil spring around the guide rod that reduced the force of the slide slinging rearward.

This buffers recoil by up to 30% according to H.K. The U.S.P. came to be because of the Offensive Handgun Weapon System, where it was tested alongside prototypes of the Mk 23 Mod 0. From the very beginning the gun was always meant to be a service pistol.

As a service weapon, it has been adopted by at least four countries as the general issue sidearm. In several more countries, it serves as a pistol for Special Operations units. Plus the U.S.P. C. is Jack Bauer’s gun of choice.

5. The French – M.A.C. Mle 50 and PAMAS G1

I’m not picking on the French, but any look into their current small arms will find them lacking. Their military is often ignored and their weapons are often quite old. There are two current service pistols in use, and neither is a new design.

First we have the ancient, but domestically designed M.A.C. Mle 50 and then the PAMAS G1. The PAMAS G1 is a licensed clone of the Beretta 92F and is built in France.

The 30-year-old G1 was supposed to replace the MAC Mle 50, but it seems the process has been moving along very slowly. They are looking to now replace both pistols as of March 2019.

The M.A.C. Mle 50 is a product of its time, and as a gun designed in 1950, that means it’s a single stack 9mm with nine rounds and a single-action design. It uses the Browning system like a Hi-Power and has an integral barrel feed ramp.

The M.A.C. 50 is a stout little gun that’s known for its durability, clearly, since it’s been around for nearly 70 years now.

The PAMAS G1 is a clone of the Beretta 92F made in France. There are a few differences between the PAMAS G1 and Beretta 92F. The G1 has a decocking lever only, and apparently, the French steel is more brittle.

Since it’s a 92F, it lacks the enlarged hammer axis pin that prevents the slide from accidentally leaving the gun and hitting the operator in the face. However, there is some speculation this was initially caused by +P+ ammo.

The French will likely adopt a Glock pistol, but until then, the M.A.C. and PAMAS are chugging along. The PAMAS is certainly a step up from the MAC, but both are likely well past their service life.

6. South Korea – The Daewoo K5

South Korea has a robust and well established domestic arms production history. Rather than just relying on the U.S., the Daewoo brand has produced most of South Korea’s military firearms.

The Daewoo K5 is an innovative and exciting firearm design that has served the Koreans since 1989.

The Daewoo K5 is a DA/SA pistol with a hammer, made on metal frame and is chambered in 9mm. The Daewoo K5 holds 15 rounds of 9mm, and in 1989 was quite high tech. It’s slightly dated now, but still an excellent combat pistol.

The K5 features an unusual trigger mechanism, sometimes called Triple action or Double action +. It’s quite similar to the P99, except with an actual hammer-fired handgun. The K5’s hammer can be decoked, while still maintaining mainspring compression.

The end result is a trigger pull with the length of a double-action trigger, but the weight of a single-action design. In the states, the Lionheart imported pistol had the same innovative feature. The K5 is a fascinating gun, and in 1989 showed a lot of innovative thought from Daewoo and South Korea.

Daewoo is an interesting company. They make everything from TVs to Cars, and handguns and assault rifles. If you need a slow, fuel-efficient car and a machine gun, call Daewoo.

7. China – Type 92

The Type 92, aka the QSZ-92, is China’s primary service sidearm. This recoil-operated, locked-breech pistol has a rotating barrel locking system like the Beretta PX4 series. This rotating barrel setup is supposed to improve reliability and decrease recoil.

This is an interesting little gun, and it was ahead of its time.

The Type 92 was designed in 1994 and featured a detachable steel frame that holds the fire control group. This sits in the plastic grip and acts very much like a SIG P320’s FCU. The frame can be removed and moved into different sized frames and grip designs.

Whether or not this was ever done remains to be seen. The gun is also chambered in the very odd 5.8x21mm round. This was China’s variant of the 5.7 and was designed to defeat soft armor.

It holds 20 rounds of the 5.8×21 round in a double-stack magazine and has a combination safety/decocker. It’s a DA/SA design and is issued lightly among Chinese forces.

9mm variants also exist for export… for reasons.

I’m betting the 5.8 round handles a lot like the 5.7, and it’s a shame we can’t find out for ourselves.

8. Russia – Makarov, and MP-443

Russian is a weird country for small arms.

Admittedly they are much more focused on their rifles than their handguns. That’s why the Makarov pistol is still around and kicking in use by their military forces. This Great Value brand Walther PP has been serving since 1951.

It’s a blowback-operated design that’s very compact for a service pistol. When your handgun is more or less used for executing traitors and subjugating people, I guess size doesn’t matter. The Makarov had a capacity of 8 rounds of what is essentially a +P .380 ACP round.

The most impressive thing about the Makarov is the fact it’s made of only 27 parts. This was perfect for the Soviet Union at the time. It is cheap and easy to produce, and had very few failure points.

The Makarov pistol has been around for so long because the former Soviet Union produced millions of them, and they are robust little pistols.

The MP 443 Grach, aka the PYa, is a more modern Russian service pistol that aims to replace the Makarov. The MP 443 is a modern 9mm Parabellum pistol with a 17 or 18 round magazine capacity. The MP 443 is slowly making its way into the hands of Russian forces, and the gun has been in mass production for eight years now.

The MP 443 is pretty standard as far as pistols go. It’s a DA/SA design that does allow the user to swap the slide stop lever and manual safety to the right and left sides of the gun. The MP 443 uses a Colt-Browning design and doesn’t do anything revolutionary.

So it’s a lot unlike bored Russians in that sense.

It is an all-steel gun, and while this adds to the gun’s weight, it is quite robust and durable. It needs to be to use the Russian armor piercing 9mm 7N21 armor-piercing round. This s a +P+ style round apparently and is a hard hitter

The MP 443 is another gun we will likely never see, but I doubt it does anything an old SW 3rd gen doesn’t do.

9. Belgium – FN Five-Seven

The Belgium FN Five-Seven pistol is an interesting firearm. It fires the 5.7x28mm round and was developed to share ammunition with the FN P90 PDW. The round it fires is similar to a rifle round in design and shape.

While the ammunition is long, it’s thin, and this allows the Five-Seven to hold 20 rounds in a flush-fitting magazine. The Five-Seven offers soft armor penetration and very low recoil on top of a flat shooting cartridge that can reach out to 100 yards.

This is a very easy shooting gun, and I can see why a military would adopt it. Plus it’s lightweight, reliable, and is unlike most handguns when it comes to armor and barrier penetration. The gun and the ammo is quite pricey though.

The gun is Belgium designed and is currently replacing the Browning Hi-Power with the Belgium Army. The Five-Seven also serves the Air Force, Special Forces Group, and Federal Police forces. The Five-Seven is an unconventional choice but is an effective weapon.

And of course, it is the firearm of Ivan Chesnokov fame.

10. Czech Republic – C.Z. 75 Phantom

The Czech Republic has a long history of private firearms ownership and is one of the few European countries to have a strong firearm’s civil rights. C.Z. is also one of my favorite personal gun makers.

The C.Z. 75 has been used extensively by their military for quite some time, and still serves in reserve units.

The C.Z. 75 Phantom is now the primary service pistol. This gun is similar in design to the classic C.Z. 75 but features a polymer frame, Picatinny rail, and a decocker only design. It also uses a larger 19 round magazine, but can also work with classic C.Z. 75 mags.

The C.Z. 75 Phantom is a robust and accurate weapon. The ergonomics are simply incredible, and C.Z. isn’t afraid to sell the gun in the States, so yay for us. The Phantom is a service pistol with the handling of a competition gun.

It has an excellent trigger, a low bore axis, and is well proven. The Phantom is an excellent gun, and it was a great choice by the Army of the Czech Republic.

11. South Africa – Vektor Z88 and SP1

South Africa has an exciting history of arms design and has both cloned and created their weapons. Their service handguns are a mixture of both. The Z88 was a domestically produced clone of the Beretta 92.

They couldn’t license it or receive handgun imports due to the arms embargo on South Africa at the time. Beretta also couldn’t sue because South African’s couldn’t come to court to defend themselves.

The Z88 was a direct clone of the Beretta 92 and, as such, is a DA/SA gun with a decoking safety and a 15 round magazine. The Z88 was a very well done clone and helped modernize the South African military. It still serves today in a limited role.

After the sanctions were lifted, Beretta was in a place where they could file lawsuits, so South Africa wisely changed the design and came up with the Vektor SP1. This gun utilized the same basic Beretta design with some changes. The safety was moved to the frame, the barrel was no longer exposed, and a 40 S&W variant was created.

The SP1 is a metal frame pistol, and it still utilizes Beretta magazines. It currently serves the South African National Defence Force and the Police Service. It admittedly looks very cool and while limited numbers were imported to the States I’ve never seen one in person.

The SP1 is reportedly a well made combat handgun, and since the weapon is based on a Beretta 92 it’s got a solid platform to start on. South Africa apparently likes the weapon enough that they’ve yet to start shopping for a new sidearm, even without an arms embargo.

12. Italy – Beretta 92FS

Beretta, the world’s oldest still-operating arms company, is an Italian firm. Are we at all surprised that the Italians are using one of Beretta’s most legendary handguns?

The 92FS has served several countries as a military and police sidearm, including our own, for more than 30 years.

The Italian military uses the Beretta 92FS. This DA/SA design features one of the best stock factory triggers on the market. The 92FS has a combination safety and decocker and excellent ergonomics outside of the safety.

The 92FS in it’s M9 form was the gun I used and it’s an excellent weapon. The 92FS is robust, reliable, and well-proven. The direct feed system and open slide design greatly increase the gun’s reliability.

Beretta’s and the U.S. Army’s numerous testing has shown that the weapon is extremely reliable and can take a ton of abuse before it cracks.

The all-metal frame pistol has very low recoil and handles like a dream. It’s perfect for both new recruits and expert shots. The 92FS is Italy’s standard service pistol, and there doesn’t seem to be a rush to swap it out.

13. Brazil – Taurus PT-92

The PT-92 is the Brazillian copy of the Beretta 92, made by Brazillian firm Taurus. It’s not an identical copy of the Beretta. Taurus makes these guns on original Beretta machinery left behind after Beretta’s military contract expired in Brazil.

The Taurus PT-92’s most significant and most noticeable change from the Italian Stallion was the use of a frame-mounted combination safety and decocker. Other than that, the PT-92 handles almost identically to the Beretta 92.

This includes the DA/A design, the direct feed design, and the double-stack magazine. The PT-92 has been serving the Brazillian military for decades now without much issue. The teething problems the Taurus guns sometimes have are seemingly not present in the P.T. 92’s design.

14. Israel… A Little Bit of Everything

Tracking down one service pistol for the Israeli army isn’t easy. It seems like they keep a bit of everything around.

The domestically produced Jericho pistol is in the inventory, as well as the SIG P226 and 228, the Hi-Power, the Glock 17 and 19 models, and more.

Researching this article has shown me that service pistols in the Israeli Army are highly uncommon. The Special Forces and Intelligence agencies all seem to have their particular pistol.

I mean, does the Uzi pistol count as a pistol?

The one common thread between Israeli pistols is that they are all quality options. They are well made, proven guns with a long history of service and success.

Conclusion

Service pistols are such a diverse subject to cover, guns that include both past and present designs. The current field of Service pistols around the world is massive, and I was left exhausted after researching and writing this article.

Service pistols are a fascinating subject to research, and I’m surprised to see such exciting diversity. I can’t possibly have conquered them all, so I ask you fine folks in the comments, which ones have I missed? Want more…check out Police Sidearms: From Past to Present.

Foxes and coyotes are widely distributed throughout North America. Interactions between these species are common, but the two mostly ignore each other in the wild.

However, a carcass can easily change the social dynamics and turn these animals from tolerant towards each other to aggressive.

Coyotes are about twice as large in size and three times heavier than foxes. They are also faster, reaching speeds up to 43 miles per hour vs. 30 miles per hour for red foxes. Foxes have a bite force of around 307 PSI, whereas coyotes bite with a strength of 727 PSI. In a one-on-one fight, the fox wouldn’t stand a chance.

The table below shows a quick comparison between coyote vs. fox*:

*Data in the table was sourced from research papers, scientific journals, magazines, and other official sources. For comparison purposes, we considered the physical, behavioral, and strength factors of red foxes, which are the most common fox species in North America. Strength facts and characteristics may vary for gray or arctic foxes.

Strike forces were calculated by multiplying the top speed for each species by the top weight mentioned in the table.

14 Differences Between Fox Vs. Coyote

1. Classification

Foxes and coyotes belong to the same family. However, they are rather distant relatives.

While they are both Canidae, red foxes belong to the genus Vulpes (true foxes) and Vulpes vulpes species. They are further divided into 45 subspecies distributed all over the world, with the exception of some territories such as Tasmania.

Coyotes are members of the genus Canis, the same as domestic dogs, wolves, and dingoes. The species – Canis latrans – is divided into at least 19 subspecies which are all distributed across Northern and Central America.

Both red foxes and coyotes are top carnivores in some ecosystems. In shared habitats, coyotes don’t actively hunt or eat foxes but they do have the potential to kill them.

2. Size

Body Length

The most visible difference between red foxes and coyotes – fur color aside – is the size. Foxes are about two times smaller than coyotes, even though larger fox males can grow larger than coyote females.

On average, red foxes reach body lengths between 1.8 and 2.8 feet. Coyotes grow between 2.6 and 3 feet in length. However, some eastern coyote males can be larger, with lengths reaching 4.5 feet in some cases.

If estimating the size could be tricky from afar, the coat color can help tell whether the animal is a fox or coyote.

Red foxes have a reddish brown coat darker on the legs and tail and with white undersides. Coyotes’ predominant color is light gray and red interspersed with black and white. The legs and undersides are whitish.

Both animals have bushy tails, but the coyote tail is mostly dark gray in color whereas a red fox’s tail is a dark reddish brown.

Height

Another crucial difference between coyotes and foxes is their height – coyotes are about eight inches taller than foxes.

On average, they reach a shoulder height of 24 inches. Red foxes, on the other hand, rarely exceed 16 inches in height.

The height difference, together with the length and fur color, can help tell the difference between the two species when spotting them in the wild.

3. Skull Size (Length)

Foxes and coyotes belong to the same family, and their skulls are very similar in shape. The most noticeable difference is the size.

Coyote skulls are about two inches longer than fox skulls. Specifically, coyote skulls are about eight inches long, whereas fox skulls are about six inches long.

The skulls of both animals have an elongated shape with a large braincase and elongated snouts.

The dental formula is also identical. Both coyotes and red foxes have 40 teeth in total, 20 on the upper jaw and 20 on the lower one.

Their dental formula is I.C.P.M (incisors, canines, premolars, and molars) 3.1.4.2/3.1.4.2 for each side of their jaws.

4. Scat Size

Another similarity between foxes and coyotes is the shape and overall appearance of their droppings.

Both species have dark brown scat, more or less cylindrical, and that mainly contains fur, tiny bones, feathers, seeds, and berries.

Foxes and coyotes living in urban areas may have lighter-colored droppings that can contain kitchen scrap traces.

Coyote scat can vary in length from about four to seven inches and is about 0.5 to 1-inch thick. Red fox scat is about two to three inches long and up to 0.5 inches thick.

4. Weight

Weight is an important asset in the animal world. The heavier an animal is, the greater the strike force it can generate.

And even if most animals use their bite to fight off an opponent, being able to make the opponent lose balance by slamming into it is a huge advantage.

With coyotes being about two times the size of red foxes, it doesn’t come as a surprise that they are also heavier.

Typically, coyotes weigh between 20 and 50 pounds. Red foxes are a lot lighter, with weights between 10 and 18 pounds.

5. Paw Size

Another unsurprising fact is the larger paws coyotes have compared to red foxes.

According to the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife, coyotes have a paw size of about 2” by 2.5”. Red fox paws are about 1.5” by 2” in size.

However, the size is not the only factor that could help you identify canid tracks.

Most canids have oval paws with the second and third toes of their front paws pointing away from each other.

In the case of coyotes, the second and third toe are closer together; they both point forward and the claws are oriented toward each other.

This trait makes it easy to tell coyote tracks apart from red foxes, but also wolves and dogs.

6. Speed

Another point in favor of coyotes is the speed: these canids can reach sprinting speeds up to 43 miles per hour.

Red foxes can run at a max of 30 miles per hour, and only for short distances. Their normal running speed is even slower.

Similar to foxes, coyotes can only run at top speed for short distances. However, they are still faster than foxes even when running at normal speed.

7. Strike Force

While the strike force in mammals is seldom measured, this value is easy to calculate by multiplying the speed by weight.

According to these factors, the strike force can be different each time the animal strikes. However, for comparison purposes, we considered the top speed of each species and the top weight coyotes and foxes can reach.

Based on these values, foxes can strike with a force up to 540 lb.-ft./s which is the equivalent of about 16.7 pounds of force.

However, coyotes can strike with up to 2,150 lb.-ft./s, or 66.8 pounds of force. This makes coyotes four times stronger than red foxes.

8. Jumping Abilities

Coyotes, much like red foxes and other canids, are not considered good climbers. However, they can jump – even if their jumping performance is inferior to that of foxes.

In fact, coyotes can jump about three feet up. Despite their smaller size, red foxes can easily jump over obstacles standing up to six feet tall.

While this is the only point in favor of foxes, it might be just what they need to get to safety if they can jump over a fence or up a tree where coyotes can’t reach them.

Climbing-wise, it should also be said that even though they are not considered good climbers, both red foxes and coyotes can climb trees as long as they can reach branches with a smoother incline and that don’t require the use of claws to grip onto the bark.

9. Bite Force

As explained, red foxes are better jumpers and climbers than coyotes. Their advantages end there, though.

As far as bite force is concerned, coyotes are stronger than foxes. In fact, they can exert a bite force of about 727 PSI. A red fox’s bite is about two times weaker, of only 307 PSI.

Both mammals have bites strong enough to kill prey and tear the flesh off bones. To put things into perspective, humans have a bite force of only 162 PSI.

If it would come to a fight between the two canid species, though, coyotes would have a clear advantage.

Despite this, an interesting fact to observe is that red foxes actually have stronger jaws than coyotes when measured pound-per-pound.

The bite force quotient (BFQ) is a measurement scientists use to estimate the bite force of various animals based on their body mass.

In a study on bite forces of various species of mammals, scientists found that red foxes have a BFQ of 90, whereas that of coyotes is only 88.

10. Behavior

Foxes may have a higher bite force quotient than coyotes, and they might be more agile climbers, however, that might not be enough when it comes to a fight.

If strength is in numbers, coyotes have all the odds in their favor.

In fact, while they have a solitary behavior when foraging, coyotes are actually social animals that live in packs.

Packs typically consist of family units – coyotes are monogamous – but unrelated coyotes could sometimes be accepted in a pack. Despite their social structure, coyotes are not known to defend their territory except for the denning season.

Unlike coyotes, red foxes are solitary animals. Females can sometimes live in groups, but this usually happens if they are all mated to the same male.

In fact, female red foxes are typically monogamous. Most males are monogamous too, but some may also seek other partners.

Apart from these circumstances, groups are mostly formed by females and their dependent or unmated offspring.

11. Diet

Coyotes and red foxes are considered omnivores, even though their primary diet consists of meat, and they can compete for resources.

Red foxes usually go after small prey, such as rodents, rabbits, and even birds and reptiles. They also eat insects and arthropods.

Foxes also eat eggs, fruits, berries, and other plant materials. When living near human settlements, they could also take advantage of kitchen refuse.

Coyotes have similar preferences. They go after small mammals, reptiles, insects, and other invertebrates.

As opportunistic mammals, coyotes take advantage of the proximity to human settlements and food scraps. Sometimes, coyotes may also hunt together and take down large prey.

Both coyotes and foxes also feed on carcasses and carrion, when they come across them.

12. Geographic Range

Red foxes are a common and invasive species present in most regions across the globe. The species is native to Eurasia and North America, but it is now found in the southern hemisphere as well.

For instance, red foxes introduced in Australia became an invasive species that is now found in all Australian territories, except for Tasmania. They are also found in South America in countries including Chile and Argentina.

Coyotes are only found in North and Central America, their geographic range spanning from Canada all the way south to Mexico.

Like red foxes, coyotes are considered an invasive species that is known to have expanded its original range over the years.

13. Habitat

Coyotes generally prefer open areas, such as prairies, grasslands, and deserts. Nonetheless, they are also found in open forest areas, urban parks, and suburban areas.

Red foxes prefer semi-open areas, such as the edge of forests and brushlands. They also inhabit prairies, grasslands, and urban and rural areas.

As one can imagine, it is common for coyotes and red foxes in North and Central America to share the same habitat.

Who Would Win A Fight?

Coyotes are larger and stronger than foxes, and when these two species come together in the wild, the former is considered the apex predator.

Yet, coyotes don’t actively hunt foxes. They typically tolerate them, unless a fox comes too close to a coyote’s food. In this case, coyotes are known to kill foxes.

Considering the size and strength differences, as well as the fact that coyotes sometimes hunt and eat in packs, a red fox has no chance of winning the fight. Its only chance would be to get to safety by jumping over a fence tall enough to deter the coyote.

PR Bobbin Knot

We couldn’t believe it when Captain Dylan Hubbard first told us that the PR Bobbin Knot has 100 percent knot strength… but so far it’s proven to be true.

The PR Bobbin Knot is the only fishing knot guaranteed to hold up 100 percent of the time (assuming you tie it correctly like Joe from Dogfish Tackle shows you below).

What does 100% knot strength mean?

It means that your fishing line — braid, fluorocarbon or monofilament — will break before the PR Bobbin Knot will (100% of the time).

Capt. Dylan says this is the ultimate knot for braid to leader connections and is unrivaled in its strength.

Its an offshore angler’s dream and will hold up against the biggest fish out there.

That being said, this is not the simplest knot to tie. It takes practice and a bobbin tool to properly tie it.

It’s also best to tie the PR Bobbin Knot the night before your fishing trip.

We created this article to be the ultimate tutorial for the PR Bobbin Knot.

To do this, we created a FREE PDF DOWNLOAD with the full guide on how to tie the PR Bobbin Knot.

We also teamed up with Capt. Dylan and Joe from Dogfish Tackle to create a video tutorial on exactly how to tie the PR Bobbin Knot.

What You’ll Need To Tie The PR Bobbin Knot

You need to make sure you have the following items to tie this knot.

What you’ll need:

1. Bobbin – This is a small tool (pictured above) that loads the tag end of your mainline up onto the tool in order to make the wraps you need to tie the PR Bobbin Knot. The bobbin helps you keep line tension during the tying process.
2. Mainline – You need a large amount of mainline tag end to spool onto your bobbin for the knot.
3. Leader Line – You need a large spool of leader line to attach to the mainline for this knot.

The bobbin is necessary for this knot and can be found at most tackle shops – especially those that cater to offshore anglers.

Bobbin prices range from about $25-80.

Note: If you don’t like to use knots that require tools, then be sure to learn the FG knot if you want to maximize the strength of your braid to mono/fluoro connections.

How To Tie The PR Bobbin Knot [Video Tutorial]

In this video, Capt. Dylan and Joe from Dogfish Tackle show you how to tie the PR Bobbin Knot and what you’ll need to do it.

Just wait until you see how tight this knot gets!

CLICK HERE to see a great tutorial showing how to tie the FG knot that was referenced in the video as the strongest knot that can be tied while out on the water without any needed tools.

Conclusion

If you’re looking for the absolute strongest line-to-line knot in the game, the PR Bobbin Knot is your best choice.

Although it is intricate and takes some practice to tie, it won’t let you down and will give you the best chance possible at landing a trophy fish of any size.

For the best results, tie this knot the night before your trip. This knot can be very difficult to tie once you’re on the boat, especially offshore while bartering with big swells.

If tied properly, this knot will not fail you.

If you’re looking for other fishing knots – such as the best terminal connection knots, loop knots and more – click here to see our fishing knots strength ranking page.

If you have any questions about the PR Bobbin Knot or how to tie it, let us know in the comments below… we’re here to help you!

Tight Lines!

Related Posts:

1. How To Tie The FG Knot [Picture & Video Tutorial]

2. How To Tie The San Diego Jam Knot [Video Tutorial And Step-By-Step Instructions]

3. How to Tie the Blood Knot [Video & Picture Tutorials]

P.S. – Be sure to share this post with any of your fishing friends and tell them that this knot is the strongest fishing knot there is!