For whatever reason, the topic of barrel break-ins comes up in two main groups amongst gun owners…

First, the precision shooters. Second, the guys that skimped on quality parts.

This topic pops up time and time again online either as a question on “how-to” or as a response to something not going right. I’m going to get on my soapbox for a minute and try to set the record straight on this a bit.

Is a break-in process necessary for your barrel? Let’s dive in, talk about it, and help you reach a conclusion!

Barrel Break-In: What Is It?

Before we tackle whether or not your barrel needs to be broken in, let’s discuss what a break-in is and what it is supposed to do.

When you get a new barrel, there are going to be some tiny imperfections that are inherent to the process of making it. Please take note, I said tiny, not obvious.

A quality-made barrel will have microscopic nicks, pockets, and other suck shallow “holes” in metal that are part of the machining process or the make-up of the metal used.

These may or may not be visible if borescoped. However, it shouldn’t be visible if you look down the barrel before assembly.

The break-in process in theory should help to fill in or fix any of these imperfections.

By shooting a round, then cleaning any corrosive agents out of the barrel before they can set in, you are smoothing things out and creating a more uniform surface.

The actual process of this can vary from shooter to shooter, but the idea is the same.

Shoot a shot, clean the corrosives out, allow the barrel to cool (depending on conditions). Shoot a shot, clean, and cool. Repeat.

This variation is also where things get a little wonky and can border on the mystical.

Plus, breaking in a barrel isn’t always necessary in the first place.

Precision Shooting

Breaking in a precision gun, be it bolt-action or semi-auto, is a necessary part of owning the gun.

With precision shooting, eliminating any variables to control your shot placement is the primary focus.

To that goal, breaking-in can tighten up groups and reduce flyers to some degree. This is due to the “break-in shots” achieving a barrel free of anything that might impact the spin of the bullet.

Say, for example, that a tiny burr was riding up in the barrel and it hit the bullet just before exiting the muzzle. That is going to affect the spin, trajectory of the bullet, and ultimately change the point of impact.

My precision guys are some of the most superstitious, must-adhere-to-tradition members of the barrel break-in cult you will find.

I live in Nevada, and it gets hot during the spring and summer months (consistently over 110 degrees Fahrenheit in Las Vegas). I know guys that refuse to shoot more than one shot every couple of days when breaking in a barrel to allow it to fully cool.

Why? That’s what the guy who taught them to shoot did, and the guy before him handed that down, and so on.

I am not saying that allowing your barrel to cool longer is a bad thing. I am asking what’s going to be achieved by waiting 48 hours that isn’t achieved in an hour?

Other examples are shooters that will only run their lucky number of patches down the bore, shooters that will only shoot on the hour, or any other number of things that supposedly work for them.

The Budget Boys

The other group I see consistently talking about barrel break-in are the guys that buy low-quality parts from manufacturers that use their customer base as a form of quality control.

This mostly seems to be guys in the AR-15 crowd that think the 0 MOA guarantee on their $79 barrel is going to deliver.

Companies that improperly machine barrels seem to draw in shooters that think saying, “I need to break in my barrel” will do anything. It won’t.

When rifling is improperly cut, when barrels are improperly crowned when gas ports are improperly sized, and when there are visible imperfections from the manufacturing process, no amount of “break-in” is going to fix the issue.

Your barrel is already broken.

(Quick side note: machining leaves marks, there are times tool marks are ok and other times when it isn’t.)

There is a reason Mike Mihalski of Sons of Liberty emphasizes the barrel as, “the heart of the gun” in his armorer’s course.

Properly made AR-15 barrels can be upwards of $400 and that’s because proper manufacturing from good materials takes time, and labor isn’t cheap.

Unless you have built a PRS-style AR, a barrel break-in isn’t needed.

While it can certainly act in the role to an extent, the AR-15 was never intended to be a precision weapon. It was a gun designed for infantry to fight battles with.

If your barrel is so poorly made that you cannot hit a man-sized target at a few hundred yards due to imperfections in the barrel, then get a new barrel.

How-To Break In a Barrel

Now that I’ve addressed what and who, I may as well tackle the how.

I will discuss the method of barrel break-in I use for my precision guns — bolt or PRS-style ARs.

This method was passed on to me by Ryan Furman.

The appeal of the process is that it is a no-nonsense, no-frills, get it done and get shooting approach to things.

This approach has helped me to break in barrels while at the same time developing hand loads. It’s not only a time-saver but will also save some life on your barrel.

First, you’ll need a few factory rounds to get on target.

After that, I use whatever load I’m testing to try and find the nodes. (If you are unfamiliar with handloading this part may be a bit confusing).

Fire a shot, then give the barrel a swab with Bore Tech Eliminator.

The directions call for three to four patches soaked in Eliminator, then 10 to 15 passes with a tight-fitting nylon brush.

You then want to let the Eliminator soak for about five minutes. Push dry patches through until they come out clean, and you’re done.

Fire another shot, and repeat the process.

On days where the heat is excessive, I’ve found it necessary to set my gun in the shade with a fan (or in my car with the AC on high) to get the barrel to cool down without wasting time.

After 20 or so rounds, a thorough cleaning is in order with the normal procedure and equipment you use.

There you have it. No need to wait days, pray to the ballistic gods, or sacrifice a chicken for help.

Conclusion

Barrel break-ins have their time and place, but they have become convoluted in superstition and mystery.

The process is straightforward when you strip away all the fluff. Fire a shot, clean some of the carbon and copper out, then repeat.

So, find a process that works for you and stick with it. If something isn’t working, figure out why and change it.

Do you break in your barrels? Let us know below. Need to pick up an AR barrel? Check out our article on the Best AR-15 Barrels.

When it comes to self-defense, there are several valid arguments for the 9mm vs 10mm handgun. Both are very popular and have their advantages and disadvantages. However, the 9mm is widely regarded as the ‘ideal’ handgun for self-defense and is one of the most highly used handguns in military and police forces. This goes for both home defense and conceal and carry. The popularity of the 9mm means that largely we have to defend the 10mm to justify it as a viable option.

Understand that the decision of which handgun to buy is a very personal decision. Every person has a different preference on weight, size, power, and recoil. Some people plan to conceal and carry, while others plan to use the weapon for home defense. Some stay in the city and worry about crime, while others spend time in the wilderness and are more concerned with predators. Before making a purchase, weigh your priorities and options to find the perfect fit for your needs.

Because of this, it’s difficult to label one as a better cartridge than the other. We will take a look at these two cartridges and discuss how they are similar and how they differ in some key ballistic and performance categories. We think that by the end of the article you will see that both have merit in the world of handguns.

History

The 10mm handgun was developed through a group effort by Col. Jeff Cooper, Norma, the FBI, and Smith & Wesson. The firearm was designed for use by FBI agents but was quickly set aside for other weapons. Some people claim that the recoil was too much for the wimpy FBI agents. However, the truth is that the weight and power simply slowed down their firing. Additional weight and recoil make target acquisition take a bit longer. When an agent is defending themselves and trying to put two or three rounds on a target quickly, the 10mm was not ideal.

The FBI did find that with different ammo, the 10mm handgun performed better in speed tests. The FBI lite load drastically reduced recoil and helped with performance. However, with a lighter load, it eliminated the need for such a heavy gun. This brought the FBI back to the 9mm, .45 caliber, and sparked the design of the .40 Smith and Wesson. It makes a strong argument for the 9mm vs 10mm.

The 9mm was first developed and used by the German military in the at the turn of the 20th century. From then, the cartridge saw use in both World Wars and was eventually accepted as a highly effective caliber by other European countries and North America. The 9mm soon replaced the commonly used .38 cartridges in the law enforcement community due to its stopping power and low recoil and is probably the most highly used round behind the .40 S&W. The 9mm provided extreme ease of handling, more stopping power than previously used rounds, and could carry more rounds in the magazine.

Let’s just take a look at the specifications of these two cartridges and see how they compare and contrast.

9mm10mm Parent Case7.65x21mm.30 Remington Bullet Diameter0.355”0.400” Neck Diameter0.380”0.423” Base Diameter0.391”0.425” Case Length0.754”.992” Overall Length1.169”1.25” Case Capacity13.3gr24.1gr Max Pressure (SAAMI)35,000psi37,500psi

From the cartridge measurements and specifications, it should jump out immediately that the 10mm Auto is a larger round than the 9mm.

10MM cartridges can hold much heavier bullets than the 9mm with some hunting and self-defense rounds coming in at 180-200gr. These bullets are much heavier than the more common weights used with 9mm rounds which commonly fall between the 115 and 140gr weight.

The 10mm Auto can be packed with a higher charge, which is needed to push such heavier caliber bullets at speeds needed for hunting and self-defense purposes. We will see shortly how these differences affect the terminal ballistics of these handgun rounds.

To compare, we select several specific rounds for each cartridge to compare in several categories. While these selections are only a small window compared to the amount of selections available, they will give us a good idea of how the two cartridges stack up next to each other, and for the most part, these trends can be extrapolated to most options available. Those rounds are listed below.

We also want to point out that you can play around with cartridge loads, including how hot the load is and the bullet type. A lot of shooters will reload their own ammunition to tailor their ammo to their needs. In this article, we are only looking at factory loads of these two handgun cartridges.

Stopping Power

One of the biggest discussion points when evaluating the 10mm vs 9mm or any other comparison of two handgun rounds is power. In self-defense, power equates to penetration or over-penetration. There are two schools of thought on power. Some gun owners want as much power as they can handle. They want to put down any target with one shot, regardless of what happens behind the target. This makes more sense for gun owners that use their handgun in the wilderness. You certainly do not want a lack of power if a bear or a wild hog is charging you.

On the other hand, is it responsible to have that much power? You might take down your target with one shot, but possibly injure or kill somebody standing behind that target or even in another room. It is quite possible for a strong round to travel through a body and then keep going through a wall. In ballistics gel tests a 9mm would typically travel about 13 inches after impact, while the 10mm was sometimes over 17 inches. This means that a 10mm could potentially travel through two people at center mass and still keep going. That is a huge amount of power. Of course, a lot of factors go into penetration and penetration is not the sole determinant of how effective a round is at disabling or deterring an aggressor.

However, in the question of bullet penetration from a 9mm versus a 10mm the key lies in the ammunition. More velocity does not always mean deeper penetration. When you switch to jacketed hollow point defense rounds, the penetration is about the same. The reason is that increased velocity causes a hollow point to spread faster after impact and to spread further. This creates more resistance and slows the bullet more than a round traveling at slower speeds. If you hit your target, the hollow point is just as safe as a 9mm round. While we will look at some numbers shortly, keep in mind that bullet type plays just as big a role in power and penetration. Two bullets with the same energy traveling downwind will penetrate differently if one is a controlled expansion bullet while the other is a hollow point.

More importantly, you should always think about the collateral damage before you fire any handgun. If you are not confident that you can hit your target without hurting other people, you do not take that shot. It is that simple. If gun owners are responsible about the way they use their firearms to defend themselves, then power is rarely an issue.

Before we move on, let’s take a look at some numbers for several popular 9mm and 10mm cartridges. We will look at the energy that is carried by the bullets, which transfers to the target and causes damage. And though we have talked briefly about penetration and the pros and cons to a deep penetrating defense-round, we will compare some sectional density data between the two.

Energy

The kinetic energy that is carried by a bullet is transferred to the surrounding tissue of the target. This kinetic energy damages and destroys tissue, organs, and nerves as it passes through. While only one variable in a bullets power, it is an important one and is easily comparable between rounds. Let’s take a look at the kinetic energy of the rounds we have selected for comparison and see if there are any trends we can pick up on.

It is very clear from this graph that the 10mm Auto rounds carry a much higher amount of kinetic energy from the muzzle out to 50 yards. Right at the muzzle, the 10mm Auto rounds are carrying anywhere from 300-400 more ft.lbs of energy than the 9mm rounds. A lot of shooters might consider this overkill, and for the range or maybe even intruders, it may well be overkill. For taking large game or punching through cover, it’s the amount of energy that is needed to be confident in stopping a charge.

Though the 10mm Auto has a significantly more amount of energy, the 9mm is not to be scoffed at. For self-defense purposes, having a force of 250+ ft.lbs from 25 yards and in is more than enough to cause enough damage to stop an intruder in their tracks. This decrease in kinetic energy, as we will see, also aids in other characteristics that make the 9mm one of the more popular personal defense rounds throughout the world.

Penetration

The best visual method of measuring penetration is through the use of ballistic gels, which we alluded to earlier. While there is nothing wrong with this method, it sometimes gets blown out of proportion, especially when you are trying to compare it to an armored or heavily clothed target, or an animal with a thick hide and skin.

In this section, we will look at the sectional densities of the various rounds. The sectional density is a measurement that comes from the bullets diameter and weight. The higher the sectional density, the greater the penetration potential. Using this, it doesn’t matter what the target is; we can still make accurate comparisons between rounds. We should note, and we discussed this earlier, that the bullet design and jacket are also major factors in how a bullet penetrates. Hollow points with higher sectional densities still might not penetrate as much as a FMJ with a low sectional density.

Still, we have a good selection of bullet types for our 9mm and 10mm selections so the sectional densities should give us some interesting comparisons.

Overall, the 10mm Auto rounds have slightly higher sectional densities than the 9mm rounds. With that being said, we can see that it varies from round to round. The 147gr 9mm round has just as high a sectional density as the 10mm rounds. Others that have lower sectional densities still might penetrate more than other with higher sectional densities due to their bullet design. For example, full metal jackets have a higher penetration than hollow points because they will not expand as rapidly.

For the 10mm rounds, you do need extra penetration for some applications such as hunting. Because of this, a lot of 10mm rounds have bullet designs that feature more controlled expansion. This allows the bullets to reach vital organs of larger animals but still provide enough expansion to cause maximum damage to surrounding tissue. While penetration is an important component to a bullets and cartridges stopping power, it is only a small portion of the overall equation and has other factors that contribute such as velocity, which we will move on to in the next section.

Velocity

Talking about velocity is important when discussing two handgun cartridges that are going to be used for self-defense purposes. Velocity plays a key role in terminal ballistics of the firearm, such as the categories we just finished discussing, and it also plays a role in how the bullet behaves when shot. Though the latter isn’t discussed as often because of the ranges shots are most often taken with these rounds.

Still, we felt that velocity is an important component to properly picking the right cartridge for your needs and will take a look at the muzzle velocities out to 50 yards for the rounds we have used in previous sections.

We can tell right off the bat that the 10mm Auto rounds have a higher muzzle velocity than the 9mm rounds. Most show around 100-200 ft/s increase in velocity, though the heavier 147gr 9mm round shows similar velocity patterns.

This trend continues for the rounds as they move downrange to the 50-yard mark. This trend makes sense as we already know that the 10mm Auto cartridges can pack a substantially larger amount of powder charge than the 9mm and is needed to fire the heavier pullets at a speed where the round would be effective in self-defense and hunting situations. Of course, the speed that these large bullets can travel is most likely going to mean an increase in the amount of recoil.

The increase velocities of the 10mm Auto rounds also affect the bullet’s penetration. The faster rounds can overcome resistance once it hits the target. Of course, expansion is going to slow down the round as it moves through tissue, but as a general trend, when looking at two of the same bullets, the once with a higher velocity is going to penetrate deeper.

Recoil

Recoil is probably the biggest argument in the 9mm vs 10mm debate, but it should not be. Yes, it is true that almost anybody can handle the recoil from a 9mm. Yes, the average 10mm round has noticeably more recoil than the average 9mm round. However, you will see a wide range of results based on the 10mm rounds you choose. If you go with a large, high speed round you will notice the recoil. However, there are plenty of rounds that have a similar kick to a 9mm. Experience handling firearms also plays an important role in handling recoil. Are there instances where the 10mm proved too much for certain agencies such as the short time in service for the FBI, sure, but that does not mean that is a round that no one of could become accustomed to handling with confidence.

Let’s take a look at some recoil data from several popular rounds for both cartridges.

What we are looking at here is the recoil energy produced from firing each specific round. While this is not the actual felt recoil, we can be safe assuming that increased force generated is going to equate to more felt kick.

It’s also important to remember that other factors come into how much recoil is felt when firing both of these rounds. Probably the biggest factor is the weight of the handgun. Shooting the same round from a 2lb and a 1lb handgun is going to feel differently. Most handguns chambered to fire a 10mm handgun is going to be heavier than a handgun chambered to fire a 9mm. This is especially true for handguns designed for concealed carry.

Still, for comparison, we have generated the below data by using a constant firearm weight for all of the rounds.

This is a category where there is no debate. The 10mm Auto rounds produce a significantly more amount of recoil than the 9mm. While the numbers do a good job showing this distinction, we recommend shooting both of these on the range one after another if you have the opportunity. The numbers alone don’t do the difference justice.

For all but the heaviest 9mm round, the 10mm Auto rounds generate 2 to 3X the amount of recoil energy. For handguns, when you get into the 10+ ft.lb of energy for recoil, you are talking about some pretty dramatic recoil and the ability to influence your shot. It also has a big role in putting quick consecutive shots on target.

While the difference in recoil is pretty drastic, it all comes down to the purpose for which you will be using your 10mm. If you are going to be in the bush and need it for protection against predators, then a heavier round and heavier recoil makes sense. Chances are you will only get one shot off anyways. If you are a city dweller and plan on using it against two legged predators, a light round is fine. There is no real benefit to using a more powerful 10mm round for normal self-defense.

Accuracy

In our experience, accuracy with a handgun is all about the handler. At the ranges you are going to be taking shots, there is no wind at play or bullet drop to compensate for. What does effect accuracy the most is inexperience handling nerves, adrenaline, and anticipating recoil.

For the latter, it’s all about practice on the range. We don’t put a lot of stock in other peoples ideas of accuracy. Most of them are phenomenal marksmen. We don’t doubt that, but trying to measure accuracy is difficult in our eyes because of all the factors that can go into it and vary from day to day.

The shooter and the firearm all impact accuracy and to tell which round is more accurate, you need to be on the range with your own handguns and rounds and measure groupings for several days.

With that being said, all of the rounds we have listed in the article and used for comparison have a good reputation for tight groupings at ranges within 25 yards. And since we are talking about the 9mm vs 10mm, recoil is going to play a significant role in any difference in accuracy between these two rounds.

With the 10mm Auto rounds having a significantly more amount of recoil compared to the 9mm rounds there is going to be a learning curve when it comes to placing consecutive shots on target. It’s not impossible, but a lot of potential buyers are going to be looking for a handgun where they can rattle off several shots without having to bring the gun back down several inches to re-center.

Price

In the cost debate between the 9mm vs the 10mm, the 9mm has a slight edge. While the guns themselves are similar in cost, the rounds off the shelf are much more affordable for the 9mm. However, there are two significant points to consider that negate this cost difference. One is that the cost to reload your own 10mm is almost identical to the cost to reload your own 9mm ammo. More and more gun owners are moving to reloading their own ammo to save on cost. I recently wrote an article that showed reloading the average 9mm round saves 73% versus the cost of buying off the shelf.

Moreover, when disaster strikes and ammo is hard to find the 10mm will still be left on the shelf. The 9mm ammo will be the first to go because a much higher percentage of gun owners use 9mm ammo. For me, this is even more important than the cost of the round. Many people hesitated to use their .22 rounds until the option of buying online came around. You simply could not find it in stores. All in all, we would call it a wash for many gun owners.

Let’s take a quick look at how much some specific rounds of this ammunition would cost you at local retailers and online vendors.

AmmunitionPrice (20 Rounds) 9mm Hornady Critical Defense FTX 115gr$17.29 9mm Federal American Eagle FMJ 115gr$14.29 9mm Winchester PDX1 Defender Bonded Jacketed HP 147gr$18.79 9mm Remington Ultimate Defense BJHP 124gr$22.99 10mm Federal Vital-Shok Trophy Bonded JSP 180gr$32.49 10mm Winchester Super-X Silvertip Hollow Point 175gr$21.99 10mm Hornady Custom XTP Jacketed HP 180gr$16.49 10mm Hornady Custom XTP Jacketed HP 155gr$16.49

Unless you’re looking to stock up on some of the high grade hunting ammunition options for the 10mm, there is not a huge difference in price between the better 9mm and 10mm rounds.

You can buy cheaper 9mm ammunition in bulk if you’re just looking to burn some powder at the range and for this, there are not as many options for the 10mm at the same price.

Availability

This is probably the most distinctive difference between these two cartridges. Without a doubt, the 9mm is much more readily available than the 10mm. While the 10mm has had a small resurgence in the handgun world over the last couple of years, you can find an abundance of 9mm ammunition at just about any retail store that carries ammunition. With the 10mm round, you are restricted to large retailers that carry a wide range of ammunition, and even then, you might not be able to find the exact round you are looking for. The internet has made it a bit easier to get your hands on 10mm rounds, but you will also find a lot of boxes out of stock or on back order.

As we stated earlier, there are also a lot more people looking to buy 9mm ammo. For normal day to day use, there is enough to go around, but if the time came to start stocking up heavily, the 10mm, in the end, might be left sitting on the shelf. That’s of course completely hypothetical.

Applications

The purpose of your firearm may greatly determine your argument between the 10mm vs the 9mm. The 9mm has several models with several sizes and several purposes. Just looking at the Glock you have a 17 for home defense, a 19 for primary conceal and carry, and a Glock 26 for a backup or pocket pistol. All of these models have good stopping power but different sizes for anybody’s specific needs. It’s honestly one of the best all around rounds for personal protection. The stopping power and the low recoil make it a round that anyone can become comfortable handling.

The 10mm is a bit more limited. If you needed to, you could use a 10mm for conceal and carry. It would be difficult. The gun is fairly large which makes it hard to conceal and less comfortable. Its primary purpose would be for home defense or wilderness defense and hunting purposes. While this limits the marketability of the 10mm over the entire potential customer base, it makes it the perfect weapon for a portion of the market. The 10mm is a niche around if there ever was one.

Best Rounds

We have looked at several specific rounds for both the 10mm and 9mm cartridge. We want to just briefly pick some of our favorite rounds from this selection for specific purposes. This is by no means a definitive answer for the different categories as we realize that there are a multitude of other options out there and of course, personal preference is a huge factor. Still, for those shopping around, these are our list for the best hunting, self-defense, and range rounds for both the 9mm and 10mm auto cartridges.

Hunting/Wilderness Protection

We don’t recommend the 9mm as a hunting cartridge. If you are looking for a handgun cartridge that is going to be effective hunting or for defense from large predators, you really need to look at larger calibers, such as the 10mm. As far as hunting rounds go, we love the 10mm Federal Vital-Shok Trophy Bonded JSP 180gr rounds. They have the penetration and energy to get through heavy hide, skin, and bones and cause massive damage to vital organs.

Self Defense

One of our favorite 9mm self-defense rounds is the Winchester PDX1 Defender Bonded Jacketed Hollow Point. The 147gr bullet gives it a little bit more punching power and the jacketed hollow point can punch through thicker clothing and still cause a considerable amount of tissue damage. It has a bit more recoil than other 9mm rounds, but it’s nothing you cannot acclimate yourself to after a few hours on the range. Heavier handguns will minimize recoil and makes it perfect for a home defense round.

Range

For this section, we only have a pick for the 9mm, and that is the Federal American Eagle FMJ 115gr rounds. For 50 rounds under $15, it’s hard to find a better deal on reliable ammunition that is not going to jam constantly and foul up your chamber and barrel. They also make a more than effective self-defense round as well.

Conclusion

The comparison between the 9mm vs the 10mm is a tough one for us. The 10mm has die-hard fans that are incredibly loyal. These owners love the power. They like knowing that their target will be disabled with one well-place shot. However, the majority of the market prefers the 9mm. It is more versatile, easier to handle, and safer in the minds of some users. There were undoubtedly several FBI agents that would prefer the power of the 10mm. In the end, the majority ruled and smaller firearms were chosen.

Again, this is a very personal decision. We like both weapons and own both for different reasons. When heading on a hog hunt in March, the 10mm will be along. For everyday purposes, the 9mm is used. Your best bet is to try out both at the range and see how they feel. For most people, if you can handle the recoil the 10mm is pretty incredible. Take your time and find the option that best fits your needs. Despite the differences in the 9mm vs 10mm, both are quality options. We are sure you will be happy with whichever option you choose.

When most people think of groundhogs, they think of woodchucks. But are these two animals the same? What’s the difference between a woodchuck and a groundhog? Let’s take a closer look at these two creatures to see how they differ.

Woodchucks Vs. Groundhogs: Are They The Same Animal?

The simple answer is yes, they are the same. Woodchuck” is just another name for “groundhog.”  These animals are part of the rodent family and they are in the same genus and species. So, if you’re talking about a woodchuck, you’re really talking about a groundhog.

But there is a bit more to the story. These animals are also known by other names, including “whistle-pig” and “land-beaver.” In some parts of the United States, people call them “thickwood badgers.” And in Canada, they are sometimes called “chuckies.”

How Did The Groundhog/Woodchuck Get Its Name? 

The name “woodchuck” is thought to come from an Algonquian word, wuchak. It’s also possible that the name is a corruption of the Cree word otchockwia.

The name “groundhog” comes from the fact that these animals spend most of their time on the ground. They are good swimmers and tree-climbers, but they usually stick to the ground where they can dig their burrows.

So, now you know that woodchucks and groundhogs are the same animals. But what do these creatures look like? Let’s find out.

What Do Groundhogs/Woodchucks Look Like?

Groundhogs are medium-sized rodents. They have short legs and low, compact bodies. They typically weigh between 4 and 10 pounds.

Male and female groundhogs look similar, but males are usually larger than females. Groundhogs have brown fur with a light-colored patch on their chest.

Their faces are round with small ears. They have dark eyes and long whiskers. Their tails are short and hairy.

Groundhogs are proficient climbers and can climb trees to escape predators or to get a better view of their surroundings. When they feel threatened, they will often retreat to their burrows where they will be safe from harm.

Where Do Groundhogs/Woodchucks Live?

Groundhogs are found in North America, specifically in the United States and Canada. They are most commonly found in the eastern part of the continent.

These animals typically live in wooded areas, but they can also be found in fields, meadows, and even near houses and farms. They like to live in areas where there is a lot of vegetation so that they can find food to eat.

Groundhogs build their homes by digging burrows underground. These burrows can be up to 4 feet deep and 30 feet long. The entrance to the burrow is usually hidden by grass or other vegetation.

Inside the burrow, there is a nesting area where the groundhog will sleep. There is also a bathroom area where the groundhog will go to the bathroom.

Groundhogs typically live alone, but they will sometimes share their burrows with other groundhogs. A group of groundhogs living together in one burrow is called a colony.

What Do Groundhogs/Woodchucks Eat?

Groundhogs are herbivores, which means that they only eat plants. Their diet consists mostly of grass, leaves, berries, and other vegetation. They will also eat nuts, fruits, and vegetables if they can find them.

In the wintertime, when food is scarce, groundhogs will often eat their own feces in order to get nutrients.

Groundhogs get most of the water they need from the food they eat. But if they can’t find enough water in their food, they will drink from puddles, streams, and other sources of water.

The Many Names Of The Groundhog :

• Whistle-Pig: This name is derived from the sound that a groundhog makes when it is alarmed. These animals are also sometimes called whistle-pigs or wood-pigs.
• Thickwood badger: The groundhog is the largest member of the squirrel family and is sometimes referred to as a thickwood badger, particularly in the northern part of its range.
• Canada Marmot: Groundhogs are also known as Canada marmots in some parts of their range.
• Red monk: In parts of Quebec, groundhogs are referred to as red monks, a name that is derived from the color of their fur.

Scientific Family And Order:

The Eastern groundhog is scientifically known as the Marmota monax. This animal is a member of the squirrel family and the order Rodentia.

No matter what you call them, woodchucks and groundhogs are interesting creatures. Here are a few facts about these animals:

· Groundhogs are one of the largest members of the squirrel family.

· They can weigh up to 14 pounds (6.4 kg).

· They can be as long as 26 inches (66 cm), including their tails.

· Groundhogs have short legs and small ears.

· They are good swimmers and can stay underwater for up to 5 minutes.

· Groundhogs are mostly active during the day.

· They are mainly herbivores, but they will also eat insects, snails, and small rodents.

· Groundhogs can live up to 6 years in the wild and 10 years in captivity.

Groundhogs are interesting animals, but what about their reputation for predicting the weather?

Do Woodchucks Really Predict The Weather?

The groundhog has become famous for its ability to predict the weather. According to legend, if a groundhog sees its shadow on February 2 (Groundhog Day), it means that winter will last for six more weeks. But if the groundhog does not see its shadow, it means that spring is on the way.

This tradition is thought to have started with German immigrants who came to the United States in the 1700s. In Germany, a similar tradition is associated with the badger. But when these immigrants arrived in America, they found that there were no badgers. So, they started using groundhogs instead.

Over time, the groundhog became the official “weather-predictor” in the United States. The first recorded instance of Groundhog Day was in 1841. And in 1886, the first newspaper article about Groundhog Day was published in The Punxsutawney Spirit.

Today, Groundhog Day is a popular event. Every year, people gather in Punxsutawney, Pennsylvania to watch Punxsutawney Phil predict the weather.

Groundhogs As Pests :

Groundhogs can be a nuisance to homeowners and farmers.

They dig burrows on properties, which can damage crops, gardens, and lawns. These animals are also known to eat plants and vegetables.

How To Keep Woodchucks Out:

If you want to keep groundhogs away from your property, there are a few things you can do:

Install a fence: Groundhogs can climb, so it’s important to make sure that the fence is at least 4 feet (1.2 m) high. You can also add an electric wire to the top of the fence to deter these animals.

Remove food sources: If you have a garden or fruit trees on your property, groundhogs may be attracted to these areas. Try to keep these areas clean and free of debris.

Use traps: Trapping is one of the most effective ways to get rid of groundhogs. You can use live traps or lethal traps. But before you set any traps, be sure to check your local laws and regulations.

Hire a professional: If you’re having trouble getting rid of groundhogs, you may need to hire a professional wildlife control company. These companies can help you get rid of these animals in a safe and humane way.

Do it yourself method: Using an air rifle, for example, is one of the cheapest ways to get rid of groundhogs on your property.

(For more on the best air rifles for pest control, see this post)

Having in your survival bag a versatile item like a tarp will come in handy during an emergency situation. It will help you gather water, camouflage your supplies and it will provide a good shelter in case nothing else is available. Improvising a basic tarp shelter can keep your head dry, it will help you conserve heat and it provides a sense of comfort and safety.

A polyethylene tarp will go a long way and you should definitely get one for your bug out bag. It is lightweight, durable, draft-proof and waterproof. They come in a variety of sizes and color, and they won’t burn a hole in your wallet.

Making a tarp shelter is easy and there are dozens of different ways and patterns to construct a suitable shelter with only a single tarp.

Before you make your tarp shelter you must consider the following:

• The location of your shelter is very important and you should stop and think about it before building your shelter.
• The direction from which the wind is blowing should be taken into account or your shelter will sail away.
• The ground should be comfortable enough if you plan to get some sleep. Pointy rocks will keep you awake.
• The ground should slope slightly for the water to runoff.
• If there is no slope, you will have to dig some trenches around your shelter to aid drainage.
• Take into account the purpose of the shelter and make it as large as it needs to be.
• Consider the weather and chose a model that is stable and won’t collapse if rain or snow are expected.

For all the shelter examples provided here, you can use a 10X10 foot tarp.

1. The A-frame tarp shelter

The A-Frame shelter is probably the most common shelter one can make. It can be made by stringing the paracord between two trees. Draping over the tarp and staking it down are the final steps required to make this common shelter. The 30-degree angle of the tarp’s roof will create a ten foot-long living area. The shelter will be 8.6 feet wide and 2.5 feet tall. This shelter provides a good rain and snow runoff and a good wind deflection. The downside of the A-frame shelter is that there is no floor and if you haven’t stretchered the paracord tight enough, there will be sagging in the middle.

2. The Sunshade tarp shelter

To create this type of shelter you will need four anchoring points to which you will tie the paracord. This is a shelter parallel to the ground and it’s designed to provide 100 square feet of shade against the sun. some people use this type of shelter during the rain because the water will pool in the middle and it’s easier to collect it. To make it sturdier you can add support poles to the corners. This basic sunshade tarp shelter will provide maximum protection against the sun, but it’s not suitable for cold weather and it can’t support rain for long.

3. The Lean-To tarp shelter

This is another shelter that it’s simple to make and it’s great for deflecting wind or providing sunshade. To make this shelter you need to secure the tarp to the ground on the windward side and support it with the paracord between to anchor points. A 30 degree angle of the tarp will provide five feet of height and 8 feet of width under the shelter. This is an “on the go” shelter because it’s easy to erect and you can quickly take it down. It provides great wind deflection and it will keep you safe from rain or sun heat. The downside of this shelter is that there are not sides and no floor to offer protection against other elements.

4. The tube tent tarp shelter

This is a sturdy shelter that provides a floor and, if properly secured to the ground, will prevent rain from seeping in. To make it, you will need to secure the paracord between to trees and drape over the tarp with the opposite ends secured together. The sixty degrees walls will provide 3 feet of width and almost 3 feet of headroom. This should be enough room for a single adult.

5. The mushroom fly tarp shelter

This type of shelter is very similar to the basic sunshade shelter but it adds a central support pole at the tarp’s midpoint. It is designed for rain or snow runoff and it’s pretty sturdy if you secure the four corners of the tarp well enough. You can make it as tall or as short as you need depending on the length of the pole. This shelter provides a great runoff for rain or snow, but it doesn’t have any sides to protect you from the wind or cold.

6. The cornet tarp shelter

This shelter utilizes the entire length of the paracrod strung from a tree to the ground. The tarp is draped over the paracord diagonally, while the leading edges fold under to form the floor. The corner of the shelter must be faced towards the direction of the wind. You will also need to tie off some drip lines above the entrance of the shelter to prevent rain from running down the paracord and into the shelter. This is a good design for wind deflection and rain/debris shedding. The downside of this design is that it doesn’t offer too much head room and if you are a tall person, you might not have enough room for you and your gear.

7. The dining fly tarp shelter

This is the favorite design for many camper and it’s a simple open air cover. It provides a good sunshade and enough headroom without sacrificing too much space. It keeps away rain but it provides limited protection against the other elements due to its lack of sides. When properly tied down and staked, the dining fly becomes a sturdy shelter and the height of the support pole will dictate the amount of headroom. This is a good model for desert survival because it provides good ventilation and adequate coverage.

8. The wind shed tarp shelter

This type of shelter requires a little practice to get it done the right way. You will need to fold the tarp into thirds and make sure the leading edge of the roof hangs over the groundsheet for adequate rain runoff. The main ridgeline has to be secured with paracords while stretched between two trees. A length of paracord must be added to the bottom fold, where the back panel meets the groundsheet. It provides great wind deflection, but it requires a lot of secure points. The hanging roofline could also sag under rain loads and channel the water onto the groundsheet.

9. The Fold-Over Wind Shed tarp shelter

This design is similar to the traditional wind shed, but it provides more coverage by sacrificing the groundsheet. The height of the paracord ridgeline determines the angle of the roof and the footprint of the shelter. It provides great wind deflection and rain runoff, but it doesn’t protect completely against the elements due to its lack of floor, flaps or sides.

10. The diamond fly tarp shelter

This shelter is suitable for two persons and it’s easy to make. You will need to secure the paracord to a tree and the ground, and drape over the tarp at a diagonal. The length of the paracord and the angle with which it is tied to a tree will determine the overall headroom and width of the shelter. The steep walls will shed rain and will deflect wind if they are well staked. This model will require drip lines, just like the cornet shelter. Depending on the size of the tarp, this shelter can accommodate more than two persons or more equipment, but the lack of a floor and flaps won’t keep out the elements. If the wind changes direction frequently, the shelter can be compromised.

11. The arrowhead shelter

Start the construction of this shelter by supporting the center of two perpendicular edges with five foot long poles or by attaching those edges to trees using a paracord. You will need to stake to the ground the opposite corner so that it creates a series of four triangles. This design will provide 35 square feet of living space and five feet of headroom at the opening. The flap will hand down and make a partial closure. The poles need to be supported by paracord tie-downs. This shelter deflects wind with its low profile and it’s very roomy.

12. The half box tarp shelter

This shelter will require some time to be built and you need to use at least four support poles and as many or more tie downs to hold it all up. The footprint provided is 25 square feet and it has two sides of protection from the elements. If not supported in the middle or kept taut from the sides, it will sag under the weight of water or snow. A full one quarter of the tarp goes unused and folded up behind the rear corner. This type of tarp shelter provides good sunshade throughout the entire day if you position it properly.

13. The barn stall tarp shelter

To make this shelter you can either use four five foot poles for support or two poles and a paracrod attached to two anchor points. The front is supported by poles and the single 90 degree wall provides enough protection, although strong wind can damage the entire structure. This shelter produces a 50 square feet living area but it has no floor. It’s simple to build, but it doesn’t provide adequate protection from the weather.

14. The Square arch tarp shelter

As the name implies, this shelter is an arch with a square top. Starting with two parallel lengths of paracord attached to anchor points approximately 3 feet apart and 3 feet high, drape the ground cloth over the two lengths of paracord and secure the long ends of the tarp with stakes. This is a good shelter for narrow spaces, but the odds of finding four anchor points in the needed proximity is quite low. To allow rain to runoff, make sure you secure one paracord slightly higher than the other. This shelter is three feet wide, three feet wide and ten feet long.

15. The shade sail tarp shelter

This is an easy and quick to build shelter and it requires to diagonally drape the tarp over a length of paracord attached to two anchor points. The opposite corners of the tarp are staked to the ground. This is an open and airy shelter and the lower the angles of the sides are, the better it will deflect wind and the more shade will provide. It provides all day shade and it requires minimal stakes and set up, but it’s not weather resistant and it will not keep you dry.

What not to do when building a tarp shelter:

• Don’t build your shelter over an ant nest or any type of burrows
• Don’t set up your shelter beneath a dead tree or in the vicinity of one
• Don’t attach tarp lines to a tree standing alone or to tall trees. Always go for the short tree in a group of taller trees.
• Don’t set up your shelter below the high tide mark of a shoreline
• Don’t set up your shelter on top of a hill or ridge.
• Don’t set up your shelter on a river bank

Making a tarp shelter is not rocket science and with a little bit of practice anyone should be able to make one. Learning these tarp shelter patterns will come in handy during an emergency preparedness situation.

Stay safe and God Bless!

Albacore tuna may be known for its tasty fillets that is sold in stores all over the United States, but it is also a species of Tuna that can grow to some pretty impressive sizes.

Although it is one of the smaller tuna species, the International Game Fish Association world record albacore tuna might be bigger than you first expect. On average, this species of fish might not sound like giants of the deep, but there are some large specimens out there.

It’s some of these large tuna specimens that we are talking about in this article. In it, we look at a couple of the world records associated with albacore tuna and the anglers who have managed to catch some of the big ones!

All Tackle World Record Albacore Tuna

• Date: 19th November 1977
• Weight: 88 pounds 2 ounces
• Angler: Siegfried Dickemann
• Location: Gran Canaria, Canary Islands, Spain

Most fish of this species weigh in somewhere between 10 and 30 pounds. While they can get much bigger than this, it’s pretty rare to catch one that goes much beyond 60 or 70 pounds. That is unless you are angler Siegfried Dickemann on a fishing trip all the way back in November 1977.

On the trip, Siegfried was using a Noris-Shakespeare rod and an Osea line 900 9/0 with an 80-pound line. He was drifting a mackerel when his eventual record-breaking fish took a bite.

Despite the impressive size of this fish, there has actually been an albacore that was bigger and successfully caught with a rod and reel too. The fish in question holds the California state record and weighed 90 pounds 4 ounces. Unfortunately, for the angler who caught it, they were using a type of hook that the International Game Fish Association doesn’t approve so, therefore, the world record still stands at 88 pounds 2 ounces.

Whether you look at the world record or state record, these sea creatures are some of the biggest tuna specimens caught of the species. Despite their relatively small size compared to other world record tuna (the biggest yellowfin tuna ever caught was over 400 pounds and the world record bluefin tuna was over 1000 pounds), these fish are still big fish for the size the majority of their species grow to.

An 88-pound albacore tuna is certainly an impressive fish to behold.

All Tackle Length World Record Albacore Tuna

• Date: 6th February 2022
• Length: 29.92 inches (76 cm) and 30.31 inches (77cm) – TIE
• Angler: Scott Tindale and Sue Tindale
• Location: Bay of Islands, New Zealand

When husband and wife, Scott and Sue Tindale, set out on a fishing trip together, they probably didn’t think that one of them would end up as a new world record holder, let alone both of them!

Scott’s fish was slightly smaller than Sue’s fish but there wasn’t enough of a difference for the record to be broken. This means that both Scott and Sue hold the all-tackle length world record for albacore.

Scott was using a Kilwell rod, a Shimano reel, and he was trolling a Black Magic Freedom lure.

Sue was using a Kilwell rod, a Shimano reel, Black Magic line, and she was trolling a Pakula lure.

It’s an interesting story that this husband and wife can share together – a fishing trip in New Zealand led them both to catch the largest tuna of this type and both becoming world record holders.

About Albacore Tuna

Scientific name

Thunnus alalunga. Albacore are also known as longfin tuna too.

Distribution

Albacore can be found in tropical and warm temperate waters of the Pacific, Atlantic, and Indian Oceans. It is worth bearing in mind that these fish can swim up to 50 miles per hour and they can cover vast distances during their migrations.

Size range

While you can get Albacore that weigh up to 90 pounds and that are up to more than 30 inches long, most will weigh somewhere around 50 pounds or under and will be somewhere around 20 inches in length.

Fishing Techniques

Albacore can be caught using bait or a lure. They are usually found by trolling and can sometimes be bought closer by chumming small baitfish.

It’s worth keeping in mind that if the trolled fish gets unhooked, it will swim away and the rest of the school will likely follow so you need to be careful to prevent losing a whole load of fish.

These fish have good eyesight so a fluorocarbon leader might be useful too.

Eating Quality

Albacore are tasty fish and are the only tuna that can be sold as white meat tuna in the USA.

The flesh is light and has a mild flavor. The meat holds together pretty well so grilling Albacore can be a great option for cooking.

How It All Began

The Labrador Retriever was developed in Newfoundland to help early settlers hunt and fish in the cold, northern climate. There was only one type of dog.

This was the case until around the 1940s, when showing dogs became more popular. Two types of Labradors were then bred for.

The traditional Lab continued to be developed for its working abilities. They have more energy and more drive, and they have a slimmer build that enables them to be more agile. This type of Lab is called the American. They excel at hunting and taking part in field trials.

The new Lab in town was developed from the traditional and bred for appearance and to excel in the show ring – these are known as English Labs and are not particularly bred for work.

The British Lab is somewhere in-between!

Let’s dig a little deeper to find out more!

The Athletic American Labrdor retriever

If you’re looking for a working Labrador, look no further than the American. They were specifically bred to hunt and later to perform well in field trials. It’s worth noting that a A good American lab will have Field Trial Champions in his pedigree.

Even though English and British Labradors can do well as working dogs, the American lines are Olympians in that arena and performance-tested to excel.

So, what are the traits of a working wonder dog? If you look at the photo above, compared to an English Lab, you will see:

A slim body with a narrower head. A longer, rangier, harder body. Outstanding natural balance and athleticism. More endurance and an excellent attitude towards accomplishing goals. Higher energy. Better at motion exercises and works well with handlers to accomplish complex tasks such as retrieving – and very sensitive to handler direction. Tough dogs that run through briers and bush without thinking. Not smarter than English labs, but recognize patterns more quickly. They are very active and constantly looking at their owners to do fun things with them. They live for activities such as kayaking, dummy retrieving, swimming, running after or riding four-wheelers, and more! “On the go” dogs that will retrieve until they fall over. Owners must keep an eye on them so they don’t overexert themselves. Have trouble being still, and calm, attentive behavior and good manners need to be trained but they take very well to training.

The American Labrador retriever is best for an active and fit family. Or use the American Lab to be your highly successful hunting partner.

The Picture-Perfect English Labrador

Roll out the red carpet for these gorgeous dogs. English Labradors are selected for their show-stopping looks to appear in movies and on TV ads. And they’re definitely more likely to win an Oscar than master an Olympic sport!

English Labradors were bred from the working Labrador lines to perform well in the show ring and dazzle us with their good looks!

So how does the English Lab differ from the American?

English labs are also called Show Labradors, so their name gives us a clue! They have a sturdier build than the other lines, with a heavier, blockier head, shorter, stubbier legs, bigger feet, broader chests, and squishier, cuddlier bodies. As a result, they’re considered prettier than their working cousins and not usually performance-tested. It’s a look that people just can’t resist! They’re pretty chill, and after morning exercise or play, they’re ready to lie down and rest. They have more trouble with physically and mentally demanding activities. After a few rounds of retrieving, these regal dogs are happy to leave continued exercise to their working dog pals! English Labradors are very food-oriented and are easily trained with treats. Show them something yummy to eat, and they’ll put a lot of energy into getting that food, at least in the beginning stages of a training session. While they’re excited about food, they can’t do many reps because their shorter, stockier physique makes it harder for them to deal with the heat. They are calmer than the Americans with better manners and attention spans but have an off-switch and do not need as much exercise.

English labs are much better for less-active families or those that want everyone to compliment them on their dog’s movie-star looks!

The Lesser-Known British Labrador

You won’t be surprised that British Lab lines are often confused with English Lab lines. Despite the name, British Labradors are actually European imports coming from European hunting lines. If you study their pedigrees, most of them come from Ireland, Scandinavia, and France. What do we know about the British Lab?

Their body shapes and temperament are between American and English lines. However, they are working dogs bred more in line with the traditional Lab. We value them for their excellent work ethics, intelligence, and good off switch. They have a strong desire to hunt but are calmer like the English Labs and not highly strung. Great gundogs – they’re all about adventure but calm enough to be service dogs. Some Labrador breeders proudly brag that they’re “masters in the field but gentle in the house,” which might be the best way to sum them up.

What All Labs Have In Common

Labrador Retrievers are widely regarded to be the most popular dogs in the world. And it’s easy to see why.

Intelligent, funny, family-friendly, easily trainable, loving and loyal with an intense desire to please, although they have their differences, ALL Labs share these wonderful qualities.

Of course, it’s a trade-off when it comes to Labs. Each type is a Lab through and through, and the only differences lie in what they do best.

People love English Labs because of how they look and don’t need as much exercise. Hunters and active families will look to the American. The British might be perfect for others.

Any Lab will enhance your life; you just need to find the one that best suits your pack!

Silver labs

Silver labs are often offered as something rare or special. Well’ they are no labs! They are crosses between a lab and a weimaraner and should be sold as such. Not only is their coat different, so is their behavior and conformation. Well, weimaraners are nice dogs too but no one is marketing a labradoodle as purebred. On the east coast they are sold as “Georgian Bay Sporting Dog” or “Georgian Bay Retriever”

Videos

Below some videos with Stonnie Dennis.

He explains in detail the differences between the lab lines.

He also has plenty of great training tips.

English vs American Labrador Retrievers Part 1

English vs American Labrador Retrievers Part 2

Rocky Fork Whitetails offers the ultimate World Class Whitetail Deer Hunting Trip for Louisiana residents.

Looking for an World Class Whitetail Deer Hunting Trip in the Louisiana area? Because at Rocky Fork Whitetails, we offer the biggest and best World Class Whitetail Deer Hunting Trip just up the road in Ohio. If fact we deliver on your World Class Whitetail Deer Hunting Trip you have always dreamed about.

We are simply the best place for Whitetail Deer, Elk, Mule Deer, Red Stag, Ram, Mouflon Rams, Axis Deer, Fallow Deer, Sika Deer, Black Buck and other challenging and exciting hunting experiences in Ohio; or anywhere else. So forget those Louisiana area hunts, come home to the Ohio World Class Whitetail Deer Hunting Trip experience that only Rocky Fork Whitetails can deliver!

Hunters who have traveled from the Louisiana area, trust Rocky Fork Whitetail’s World Class Whitetail Deer Hunting Trip; for exciting and memorable World Class Whitetail Deer Hunting Trip experiences in Ohio. We take your World Class Whitetail Deer Hunting Trip experience and turn it into your World Class Whitetail Deer Hunting Trip dream, with a knowledgeable staff of World Class Whitetail Deer Hunting Trip expertise; that will insure you the greatest experience you will ever have in World Class Whitetail Deer Hunting Trip.

We offer many World Class Whitetail Deer Hunting Trip and other hunting adventures:

• Whitetail Deer
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• 5 Star Lodging (Click for more info on our Ohio Ranch and lodge)
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• License
• Tags
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• Caping
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Note: Groups of 4 or more there will be a mandatory 12% gratuity added. There is a $500 non-refundable deposit due upon booking.

Rocky Fork Whitetails in Ohio offers a unique World Class Whitetail Deer Hunting Trip for those coming from Louisiana.

All ages and skill levels welcome for the World Class Whitetail Deer Hunting Trip of a lifetime!

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We welcome all first time World Class Whitetail Deer hunters from Louisiana and beyond to your Ohio World Class Whitetail Deer Hunting Trip adventure.

There simply is not better place in Ohio, or anywhere else to learn the sport that from the experienced guides at Rocky Fork Whitetails. Young or old there is no age limit, if you can shoot with accuracy at a moderate distance you will net a good sized World Class Whitetail Deer; in fact, we guarantee it. Don’t want to bring from your Louisiana area home for your World Class Whitetail Deer Hunting Trip? That’s no problem! We have everything you need at no extra cost upon request.

Rocky Fork Whitetails can even accommodate any special physical or dietary needs for your ultimate World Class Whitetail Deer Hunting Trip. Your guided World Class Whitetail Deer Hunting Trip centered in the majestic hills of Ohio will be World Class Whitetail Deer Hunting Trip and Rocky Fork Whitetails is here to make sure you have World Class Whitetail Deer Hunting Trip stories to tell when you get home!

(410) 984-8680 • [email protected]

At the Rocky Fork Whitetails in Ohio we want to promote and encourage future World Class Whitetail Deer hunters from the Louisiana area and beyond, welcoming them into our brotherhood of World Class Whitetail Deer outdoorsmen. We take pride in the time and care we take teaching the first time World Class Whitetail Deer hunter from Louisiana. Keeping in mind this will be the most important World Class Whitetail Deer Hunting Trip of their life and will set the tone for their future World Class Whitetail Deer Hunting Trip enthusiasm at Rocky Fork Whitetails in Ohio.

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(410) 984-8680 • [email protected]

Achieving proper ergonomics and comfort when shooting a rifle is crucial for accuracy and overall shooting experience. One important measurement to consider is the rifle length of pull. Determining the correct length of pull ensures that the rifle fits your body size and shooting style. In this comprehensive guide, we will walk you through the step by step process of measuring the rifle length of pull accurately. Whether you are an advanced shooter or a beginner, understanding this measurement will help you achieve optimal shooting posture and control. So, let’s dive in and learn how to measure the rifle length of pull effectively.

Understanding Rifle Length of Pull

Understanding the concept of the rifle length of pull is important for every shooter. The length of pull refers to the distance from the trigger to the butt plate or end of the stock, and it plays a crucial role in achieving proper shooting mechanics and ergonomics.

One of the primary reasons why the length of pull is important is its impact on maintaining a consistent sight picture. When the length of pull is too long or too short, it can affect the alignment of your eye with the rifle’s sights or scope. A proper length of pull allows you to position your eye comfortably and consistently behind the sights. Ensuring proper sight alignment and improved accuracy.

Additionally, the length of pull influences your ability to control recoil effectively. When the length of pull is too long, it can cause the rifle to kick back forcefully into your shoulder, leading to discomfort and potential loss of control. On the other hand, if the length of pull is too short, you may experience excessive muzzle rise, making it difficult to recover quickly for follow up shots. By determining the correct length of pull, you can achieve better recoil management, enabling faster target reacquisition and improved shooting performance.

Achieving a Comfortable Shooting Position with Length of Pull

Moreover, achieving a comfortable shooting position is vital for maintaining stability and accuracy. A proper length of pull allows you to position your body in a natural and balanced posture, reducing muscle tension and fatigue during extended shooting sessions. When the rifle fits you correctly, it enhances your ability to hold the firearm steady and execute smooth trigger pulls. This, in turn, improves your shooting consistency and overall accuracy.

Understanding the significance of the rifle length of pull highlights its impact on your shooting experience. A well fitted rifle ensures better alignment of your eye with the sights or scope, improved recoil control, and enhanced shooting comfort. To achieve the optimal length of pull for your rifle, it is important to consider factors such as your body size, shooting style, and personal preferences. By measuring and adjusting the length of pull, you can customize your rifle to fit your individual needs, leading to improved shooting mechanics and increased shooting satisfaction.

Tools and Materials Needed to Measure Length of Pull

Before starting on the process of measuring the rifle length of pull, it’s important to gather the required tools and materials. Having these items at hand will ensure accurate measurements and enable you to make any necessary adjustments for optimal fit and comfort. Here are the tools you will need:

• Measuring Tape:

A measuring tape with both metric and imperial units is ideal for precise measurements. Choose a tape that is long enough to span the distance from the trigger to the butt plate or end of the stock.

• Non-Stretchable String or Cable:

This is an alternative to a measuring tape and can be used to measure the length of pull. Ensure that the string or cable is strong and doesn’t stretch when tension is applied.

• Marker or Tape:

You will need a marker or tape to mark the reference point on the rifle. This will serve as a consistent starting point for accurate measurements.

By having these tools ready, you will be fully prepared to measure the length of pull on your rifle accurately. As well as proceed with any necessary adjustments to achieve the ideal fit and comfort for your shooting needs.

Measuring the Rifle Length of Pull

Now that you have gathered the necessary tools and materials, it’s time to dive into the step by step process of measuring the rifle length of pull. Each stage will be explained in detail to ensure accurate and reliable measurements. Let’s begin:

• Preparing the Rifle:

Before starting the measurement process, it is crucial to ensure that the rifle is unloaded and in a safe condition. Remove any ammunition from the chamber and magazine, and confirm that the firearm is completely empty. Treat every firearm with the utmost respect for safety.

• Establishing a Reference Point:

Identify a reference point on the rifle that will serve as a consistent starting point for your measurements. The center of the trigger is a commonly used reference point. Using a marker or tape, mark this reference point clearly for future reference.

• Positioning the Rifle:

To maintain consistency throughout the measurement process, it is important to adopt the correct shooting posture and positioning. Assume a comfortable shooting stance with proper grip and shoulder placement. Ensure that the rifle is shouldered firmly and consistently for accurate measurements.

• Measuring the Length of Pull:

Using either the measuring tape or non stretchable string, proceed to measure the distance from the reference point (center of the trigger) to the butt plate or the end of the stock. Make sure to keep the measuring tape or string taut for precise measurements. Take note of the measurement in inches or centimeters, depending on the units used by your measuring tool.

• Analyzing the Measurement:

Once you have obtained the measurement, it is important to interpret its implications for your shooting comfort and ergonomics. A length of pull that is too short may result in a cramped shooting position and limited control. While a length of pull that is too long may lead to a stretched out posture and decreased stability. Analyze the measurement in the context of your body size, shooting style, and personal preferences. This is to determine if any adjustments are necessary.

By following these steps, you will be able to accurately measure the rifle length of pull. Remember that achieving the proper length of pull is crucial for optimal shooting comfort, control, and accuracy.

Making Adjustments to the Length of Pull

After measuring the rifle length of pull, you may find that adjustments are necessary to achieve the ideal fit for your body size and shooting style. In this section, we will explore various techniques that can be employed to modify the length of pull. It is important to note that these adjustments should be done with caution. And when in doubt, it is recommended to seek professional help or consult with experienced shooters or gunsmiths to ensure proper adjustments without compromising safety or functionality. Here are some common techniques:

• Adding or Removing Spacers:

Many rifles have adjustable stocks that allow the addition or removal of spacers between the stock and the butt plate. Adding spacers increases the length of pull, while taking them off reduces it. By adjusting the number of spacers, you can fine tune the length of pull to suit your preferences.

• Adjusting the Buttplate:

Adjustable butt plates on certain rifles allow you to move them horizontally or vertically. These features enable you to change the length of pull. These adjustments can be made using screws or other mechanisms provided by the manufacturer. It is important to refer to the rifle’s user manual. Or consult with a professional to understand how to make these adjustments properly.

• Considering Aftermarket Stocks:

If the existing stock does not allow for sufficient adjustment or if you prefer a different stock design, consider investing in an aftermarket stock. Aftermarket stocks offer a wider range of customization options, including adjustable length of pull, ergonomic features, and different materials. Research and choose a manufacturer that offers stocks compatible with your rifle model.

When making adjustments to the length of pull, it is essential to prioritize safety and functionality. Make sure to follow the manufacturer’s guidelines when making modifications. Always ensure that the rifle remains in a safe and working condition. Additionally, seek the advice of professionals or experienced shooters who can provide valuable insights based on their expertise.

Remember, the goal of adjusting the length of pull is to achieve a comfortable and natural shooting position. This allows for proper sight alignment, recoil control, and overall shooting performance. Experiment with different adjustments and configurations while considering your individual preferences and shooting needs.

Additional Considerations for Length of Pull

When it comes to the rifle length of pull, there are several more considerations that should be taken into account. These factors can greatly influence the ideal length of pull for an individual shooter. Let’s explore these considerations in more detail:

• Shooting Applications:

Different shooting applications, such as hunting, target shooting, or competitive shooting, may require varying lengths of pull. For example, hunters who frequently shoot from different positions or in dense brush may prefer a shorter length of pull for better maneuverability. Target shooters, on the other hand, may prioritize a longer length of pull to achieve a more stable shooting platform. Consider the specific shooting application and how it may impact your length of pull preference.

• Personal Preferences:

Each shooter has unique preferences when it comes to rifle fit and comfort. Some individuals may feel more comfortable with a slightly shorter length of pull, while others may prefer a longer length. It’s important to take personal preferences into account when determining the ideal length of pull for yourself. Experiment with different lengths and observe how they affect your shooting experience and overall comfort.

• Physical Limitations:

Individuals with physical limitations, such as limited mobility, arm length, or shoulder issues, may require specific adjustments to the length of pull. It’s essential to consider any physical limitations you may have and how they might impact your shooting mechanics and comfort. Making appropriate modifications to the length of pull can help accommodate these limitations and ensure a more enjoyable shooting experience.

• Ergonomics and Body Size:

The ergonomics of the rifle and the shooter’s body size are crucial factors in determining the ideal length of pull. A shooter with a larger frame may require a longer length of pull to achieve proper alignment and stability, while a shooter with a smaller frame may need a shorter length. Consider your body size, including your arm length and shoulder width, when determining the ideal length of pull for your rifle.

By taking these considerations into account, you can better understand the broader context and individual nuances associated with measuring and adjusting the rifle length of pull. Remember, the goal is to find a length of pull that maximizes comfort, stability, and shooting performance for your specific needs.

Wrap Up

Throughout this guide, we have explored the concept of rifle length of pull and its importance in shooting mechanics. We have discussed the step by step process of measuring the length of pull, including preparing the rifle, establishing a reference point, positioning the rifle, and accurately measuring the distance. We have also delved into the potential need for adjustments based on the measurement results, covering techniques such as adding or removing spacers, adjusting the butt plate, or considering aftermarket stocks. Additionally, we have highlighted the significance of considering shooting applications, personal preferences, and physical limitations when determining the ideal length of pull.

By achieving the correct length of pull, you can experience enhanced shooting comfort, improved control over the firearm, and increased shooting accuracy. A proper length of pull allows you to maintain a consistent sight picture, effectively manage recoil, and achieve a comfortable shooting position. It is a fundamental aspect of rifle fit that should not be overlooked.

However, it’s important to remember that each shooter is unique, and personal preferences may vary. What works for one individual may not necessarily work for another. It is essential to experiment, seek professional guidance when needed, and ultimately find the length of pull that feels most comfortable and natural for you.

In conclusion, understanding and measuring the rifle length of pull is an essential step in optimizing your shooting experience. By following the steps outlined in this guide and considering the various factors discussed, you can achieve a well fitted rifle that promotes better shooting mechanics, comfort, and overall accuracy.

Happy shooting!

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You know, it doesn’t matter what kind of bait you use if you don’t have a hook in it. That sounds simple, but when it comes to choosing the right hook, I consider that decision very carefully.

Hooks are obviously extremely important because that’s how you’re able to land a fish. However, you have to use the right style of hook for the right application. Otherwise, you decrease your chance of catching fish.

When I’m determining the type of hook I’ll use, a lot of factors come into consideration. The type of bait I’m using is certainly a big element, but so are line size, the habitat I’m fishing and the size of fish I expect to catch.

For instance, you wouldn’t use a thin wire hook with 20-pound fluorocarbon in heavy cover. Conversely, you wouldn’t use a heavy flipping hook in open water with light line. Every hook has its purpose and learning to select the right one for the job will increase your success as an angler.

Here are a few of my favorite hooks and a few details on how I use them:

HOOK 1: Gamakatsu Straight Shank Heavy Cover Flipping Hook

How I Use It: This hook is great for fishing around any shallow cover such as grass or wood. The strength allows you to set the hook and drag that fish out of cover. In this scenario, if you try to use a hook that’s too light, one of two things will happen: Either your hook will bend, if the fish will wiggle loose.

When you hook a fish in that heavy cover, those fish have so much leverage. By comparison, out in open water, the fish is pulling against you, which means they’re pulling against your line and your rod. There’s not much pressure on the hook and on the fish.

But when that fish is in the target area and he’s pinned against something, they have so much leverage that they can turn their head really hard really hard the other direction and it will bend the hook. So you need a heavier hook for that situation.

This is my choice for flipping/pitching with 22-pound Sunline Shooter fluorocarbon. I’ll rig this hook with the Yamamoto Flappin Hog and use a 4/0 for the larger size bait and a 3/0 for the smaller one.

Hook Pointer: When I feel the bite in heavy cover, I drop the rod tip, reel up any slack and set the hook pretty hard.

HOOK 2: Gamakatsu Super Line Extra Wide Gap (EWG) Hook

How I Use It: This is my choice for all 5-inch Senko applications around shallow cover, where I cast and flip the bait on 16- to 20-pound fluorocarbon. That hook holds the Senko, I believe, straighter than any other hook. It allows the bait to line up perfectly straight on the hook.

That bait falls the best without any hook in it – without anything to hinder it. By design, the bait wiggles when it falls. With any hook, if the bait is tweaked a little bit and not perfectly straight, I don’t think it falls as naturally as it’s designed to fall because you’re limiting the amount of action it has.

Depending on depth, I’ll fish the Senko on a weighted Texas rig with a 4/0 hook or a weightless Texas rig with a 3/0. With the weightless rig, the 3/0 size is better because there’s less hook and I don’t overpower the Senko and mar the action. With a standard Texas rig, weight is less of an issue.

Hook Pointer: Not only does that hook keep it perfectly straight; it allows you to Tex-pose that hook point. So you don’t have to pierce the Senko completely like you would with a standard Texas-rigged setup where the barb and the point are buried inside the bait.

Well, a Senko is a big-body bait with a lot of salt and a lot of bulk. Anytime you have to pierce that bait, your odds of catching that fish decrease.

With that EWG hook, the bend that it has allows me to run the hook point completely through the bait and then the hook point lays flat on top of that bait. Then all I do is just barely pierce the skin with the point to make it completely weedless. When I set the hook, all I’m doing is tearing through one little piece of plastic.

So this hook helps the bait sit flat without any weird bend to it and it helps with the actual hook-up ratio when you set the hook.

HOOK 3: Gamakatsu Weedless Split Shot/Drop Shot hook

How I Use It: This is my choice for wacky rigging 5-inch Senkos. Wacky rigging maximizes that classic Senko action because there’s only one point of entry, as opposed to the two points of entry that you have with a Texas-rigged bait.

The reason a Senko is so effective at tempting fish is that it has a crawly, wiggly action on the fall. Fishing it on a wacky rig allows the bait to fall as it’s made to.

I like a 1/0-2/0 hook for wacky rigging and I’ll fish this rig in shallow to mid-depths on spinning tackle. I typically use 8-pound fluorocarbon, but these hooks are heavy enough that I can get away with 16-pound line if I’m around heavier cover.

Hook Pointer: Because I’m using spinning tackle and lighter hooks, I have to take it easy on the hook set. If I drop the rod tip and set the hook like I would with a flipping presentation, I might bend the hook. With spinning gear, I’ll reel down and pull into the hook set, instead of the drop-snap method.

Here are a few more points to consider with your hooks:

Knot Choice: For all of the hooks I’ve mentioned, I attach my line with a version of a uni-knot. Essentially, you make a loop through the eye; similar to the Palomar, but then you tie a uni-knot over the main line and the tag end with the loop.

In the past, I’ve had trouble with broke lines with Palomar, but since I’ve been using this knot, I’ve had almost no trouble with knot-related break-offs. A Palomar is a great knot for reaction baits, but for any hook setting baits with lot of shock, I use this modified uni-knot.

Matching Line to Hooks: The one trick is to look at the diameter of the hook as it relates to your line. The lighter the line, the lighter the hook should be. Basically, a light line doesn’t have enough power for a heavy hook; but a heavy line has too much power for a light hook. If you go the wrong way; things will go south in a hurry.

Hook Organization: How you store your hooks can play a key role in your efficiency, particularly your ability to quickly respond to an opportunity on the water.

I keep my hooks in a Plano Utility box with slots for the different sizes. This box also carries my other terminal tackle items. I have back-up items in their original packaging in my truck, but I’ll keep a complete assortment of terminal tackle in this one box in my boat.

Doing it this way, keeps everything I need right in front of me. I don’t have to open up a box for hooks, another box for weights and another box for bobber stops. It’s faster and easier to have something right there.

Sharpening Hooks: There’s nothing wrong with touching up the tip of a hook now and then. I do it if I see the point just has a little bend or tweak in it.

However, if I think a hook’s point has worn down to the point of needing more than a casual touch-up, I’ll replace it. It takes only a few seconds to retie and I’d rather know that I have a hook that won’t let me down.

The Glock 43X is the reverse stretch of Glock pistols. Glock took the wildly successful Glock 43 pistol and stretched the grip to accommodate a newer 10 round magazine. The Glock 43X became a very popular concealed carry pistol and opened up a new market for Glock slimline pistols. We will explore its various features in this Glock 43x MOS review.

The Glock 43X has recently gotten a welcome addition in the form of a MOS model. The new Glock 43X MOS is hitting shelves now and will likely be a huge hit.

MOS stands for Modular Optics System. This pistol bears the name MOS, but the MOS system on these guns is much different from the standard MOS system.

The standard system comes with a multitude of plates to accommodate tons of red dot optics.

The Glock 43X is a superbly small handgun, so it can’t accommodate bigger red dot sights. This MOS system is cut for the Shield RMSc pistol red dot.

This is one of the smallest pistol red dots on the market, and the footprint of the optic is quickly becoming popular.

This opens it up for the Shield RMSc, SIG ROMEO Zero, SwampFox Sentinel, and Holosun 507k, and a few newer models hitting the market hard and fast.

That’s not the only change Glock made to the 43X series pistol though so let’s dive in and check out the Glock 43X MOS and how Glock made a micro fighting pistol a bit more capable.

While these new small optics have yet to prove themselves, they are becoming increasingly popular. Especially when you pair it with a great Glock 43X MOS holster.

Fit and Finish

A big change Glock made to the Glock 43X MOS was changing the slide color from stainless steel to a traditional black nDLC finish. The guns came out in a black finish prior to the MOS series, but the MOS series will be exclusively nDLC.

This diamond-like coating is ultra-strong and proven to be durable on the vast majority of Glock pistols. The hardness level is extreme, and it doubled from the older tenifer finish.

I can’t lie, I like the stainless steel coating, and I think it makes the plain Jane, Spartan Glocks stand out a little, but I understand the change.

Stainless looks good, but the black is less reflective and will create fewer reflections on the lens of your red dot optic. The black finish gives the gun a more discrete look and allows it to disappear a bit better under a cover garment.

Silver does tend to stand out a bit more than most.

The frame is the traditional Glock black polymer frame. It’s a bit blocky and plain, but looks professional and is molded precisely. The Glock frame isn’t fancy but is perfectly suitable and well made.

You won’t see issues with the frame’s molding marks or texture.

The appearance of the Glock 43X demands a black optic to keep the black on black theme going. Luckily, black is the most common color in the tactical optics world. It’ll also match your shoes.

Specs

The Glock 43X MOS is a superbly thin and lightweight handgun designed with concealed carry in mind. The G43X MOS has an ultra-short barrel, and this makes OWB carry possible and makes the 43X MOS easy to carry IWB and AIWB (Appendix Inside the Waistband).

The overall length is 6.5 inches long, and the overall height is 5.04 inches, including the magazine.

The overall width is a slightly chunky 1.10 inches, and the slide is .87 inches wide. The gun weighs 23.07 ounces fully loaded. The gun isn’t the thinnest option, but it’s still exceptionally easy to conceal.

The gun is remarkably balanced, and those of us who want something small and light to carry but still want a full grip will love the Glock G43X MOS.

As you add an optic, the gun’s height and overall weight will change, but not significantly. The modern micro red dot is a super small and lightweight design that barely adds bulk to your firearm. The G43X MOS is one of the smallest optics-enhanced guns on the market.

The gun comes with ten-round magazines, and it cannot take magazines made for the G43. This cuts off a lot of extended magazines made for the G43. However, a company called Shield Arms makes a 15 round magazine that fits flush with the G43X MOS and Glock 48.

This adds five rounds of flavor to your Glock series pistol. I have no personal experience with these magazines, so I cannot speak to their reliability, but they do seem to be well-loved by Glock 43X MOS and Glock 48 owners.

Ergonomics

The Glock 43X MOS offers a much better grip than the original G43. The longer grip fills the hand better and allows the gun to fit the 10 round single stack magazine with ease. Another major improvement is the slight beavertail that provides some protection for my hand.

Me and Glocks sometimes don’t get along because I’m a victim of constant slide bite from the Glock series. The Glock G43X MOS is different and provides a nice little overhang that allows me to have a nice high grip and keeps my hand from getting bit.

The Glock 43X MOS is a very simple gun. Glock has a reputation for making guns as simple as possible, and admittedly simple is good in a pistol designed for combat. The 43X MOS features three safety devices, but not a single one is a manual safety.

The only thing close to that is the trigger safety, which will not allow the trigger to fall without a complete and purposeful press. This keeps things quite simple and allows a shooter to have a gun they can instantly engage with without much thought behind it.

The G43X’s hand-filling design does help with recoil and control. The grip allows you to comfortably control and handle the gun.

It’s much more comfortable for rapid-fire training and long days at the range than the standard 43. This is a must-have for an optics-enhanced gun.

A real grip ensures you can hold the dot steady and take full advantage of all the benefits a red dot has to offer you.

The G43X MOS isn’t perfect ergonomically.

One of the issues with the gun is the slide lock. With a good, thumbs forward grip, the slide lock will be pinned down and fail to engage when the gun is empty.

This might be a problem associated with my sausage-like fingers, but it’s one that plagues every Glock I’ve ever shot, including the G43X (non-MOS version).

That’s the life of dudes with 2XL sized hands.

Features

Red Dot Cut Out

The star of the show is clearly the gun’s ability to utilize an optic. An optic on a handgun might seem silly to some, but they’ve been proven by reputable trainers around the industry to be a drastic improvement on your handgun’s potential.

A dot equipped handgun is faster, more precise, and allows a shooter to hit targets at further distances with ease. On the G43X MOS, the optic makes a ton of sense.

Small guns typically have a short sight radius, and the presence of a dot completely erases the sight radius issue. This allows a small gun to be as precise as a large gun. Although learning to use the red dot takes some extra practice. It’s well worth the investment in the end.

The red dot cut cuts in the slide aren’t the only big change.

Picatinny Rail

Glock also added a small Picatinny rail on its new G43X MOS model. This small Picatinny rail allows users to attach any number of devices. This includes lasers, small lights like the Olight Mini Valkyrie, or even training devices like the MantisX.

The Picatinny rail is a nice touch, and as red dots and lights become more mandatory on guns, more companies will embrace small rails on their carry guns.

The G43X MOS also comes with most of the updates Glock made for the Gen 5 guns. This includes a high visibility follower in the magazine, a smooth finger groove-less design, front serrations, and a reversible magazine release.

The front serrations are an important touch and allow you to easily manipulate the slide when the gun is wearing a red dot. They’ve been on the gun since the original G43X and are more important on the MOS system.

Front serrations ensure you can manipulate the weapon without gripping the optic. You can grab the optic to manipulate the slide but you’re likely to smudge oil from your skin on the glass when you do so. A smudge-free optic works much better.

The below image shows a big thumbprint on the Swampfox Optic.

Shooting Characteristics

The Glock 43X is a weirdo, and the MOS model is also still a weirdo. The short slide combined with the compact-sized grip makes the gun interesting, to say the least.

The Glock 43X MOS fills the hand nicely, and the beavertail extension allows for a nice high grip on the gun. This allows you to maximize control over the gun and keep it on target, even when firing rapidly.

The original 43 used to bite the hell out of my hand, and I hated it. I would start flinching just a bit between each and every shot. That is long-gone with the Glock 43X MOS.

The iron sights are like all Glock iron sights, and they are made from plastic and kind of suck. Toss on a red dot and replace the sights with suppressor height sights for co-witnessing asap.

The recoil is minimal, especially with 115-grain loads. You’ll feel a bit more snap with self-defense loaded +P loads. This snap is notable, but not uncontrollable or even painful.

It has some jump and kick to it, but it’s not like a 357 from a snub-nosed by any means.

The gun cycles just about anything you could put through it. The G43X is built to the same standards as all Glocks, and a big part of that is reliability.

You can say a lot about Glock pistols, but you can’t say they aren’t reliable.

They eat everything without complaint and just keep on going even with poor maintenance.

You can say the trigger is average at best, the grip is blockish, and the magazine release needs to be bigger. All are very true, and the Glock 43X MOS carries all the issues the regular G43X has.

The good news is these problems are very small in the grand scheme of things.

Concealment

As a gun designed for concealed carry, size matters, and the Glock 43X MOS is not necessarily a big gun, but it’s not the smallest either.

The G43 is admittedly easier to conceal just by design. However, the G43X MOS is far from difficult to conceal. However, the addition of an optic will make it a slightly bigger gun height-wise.

The G43X’s light weight makes it a comfortable gun to carry, and it won’t sag or pull at your waist.

It’s a gun that’s easy to forget you’re even carrying. The G43X MOS disappears easily under a T-shirt. The shorter barrel design allows it to be comfortably carried OWB, and that’s my preferred method of carry.

The shorter barrel means you won’t have to wear a tall shirt to make it disappear.

The gun is also quite comfortable for appendix carry and traditional IWB. IWB is typically an easy way to carry almost any gun, but AIWB can be trickier with long guns.

I haven’t mastered AIWB with a full-sized gun just yet, but a nice short gun like the G43X MOS is the perfect AIWB companion.

All in a Day’s Work

The Glock 43X MOS is a helluva upgrade to the G43X. The presence of a rail and optic allows the gun to step into the territory of full-sized guns. The extra presence of an optic and light makes the guns all the more capable, and Glock made some wise choices with the Glock 43X MOS.

The Glock 43X MOS is a very capable, but also easy to conceal weapon. With the right holster and belt combo, you’ll be able to pack the G43X, spare magazines, and a good attitude due to your comfortably concealed weapon.

Check out the Glock 43X MOS and take a peek at the Glock 43X MOS holsters.

Let us know below if the G43X MOS is for you, or are you a G48 MOS kinda person?

Please comment to let us know if you liked our Glock 43x MOS review. Also Checkout our Taurus G3c Review