Gerald Almy

Food plots are for many of us the most fun and dramatically rewarding part of being a gamekeeper. But as you delve deeper into habitat and wildlife management, it becomes clear that there are plenty of other improvements that need to be made to the habitat if your goal is to attract and hold mature bucks on your property.

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Attending to these “extra” things besides food plots becomes especially important for those who, like me, only have a hundred or few hundred acres. If you have thousands of acres of mixed habitat and let young bucks walk, chances are you already have some older bucks present. For those of us with less acreage, packing the maximum amount of things that will attract and hold older bucks in a small area and managing it extra carefully are especially important. Here are 12 projects and management principles that will help make your land attractive to older-age-class deer. There are certainly other steps you can take, but these are good ones to start with. If you don’t give the deer these things, chances are your neighbors will, and that’s where they’ll go.

Before getting started, realize that to get the maximum benefit from these projects, you need to carefully analyze your property using topos, aerial photographs, and your knowledge of the land to lay them out for maximum attractiveness to the deer and maximum enhancement of your hunting success. The latter aspect requires careful consideration of things such as best access to stand sites, prevailing wind direction, sun angle, approach cover, and other factors. But knowing where the different types of cover and food are that you have put in place will help you know how the deer will travel and where they will likely bed as they make use of the habitat enhancements you’ve made. 1. Create a transition corridor for mature bucks. Most land is to open for prime deer habitat and big bucks don’t get old by traveling where they can often be seen. Locate a natural potential travel route from bedding to feeding areas or between doe bedding areas and make it appealing to bucks by adding a variety of shrubs or tall annual grasses and partially felling a few low value trees. This serves two purposes. Besides offering cover, a lot of the species you plant will also offer food as will the hinge-cut trees. That will make the travel corridor even more appealing. Here’s an example. You have a small stream or drainage ditch flowing through an area that could be a big buck travel route between doe bedding areas, feed fields or blocks of timber, but it’s too open. Without brush and trees, only does and young bucks will likely use it during daylight. Put in a swath of shrubs that grow 5-8 feet tall or cover grasses such as Blind Spot along the creek, however, and mature bucks will start using it because they’ll feel secure there. A number of different shrubs will work well for this project. Some good ones to consider are: native American honeysuckle bushes, dogwood shrubs (graystem, silky, or red osier), lespedeza, crab apple, Chickasaw plum, chinquapin, viburnum and indigo bush. They’ll not only create security cover, deer will nibble on most of these plants, adding to the travel corridor’s attraction.

Plant two rows of these bushes on the side of the creek a buck would likely travel, 8-12 feet apart. For variety and winter cover, you can mix in a few pines or cedars.

2. Provide minerals. Maybe you’re fortunate enough to have a natural mineral site on your property. Most of us, though, are less fortunate and need to build one or more mineral licks to satisfy the deer’s need for macro and micro elements that they don’t get enough of from natural foods, crops and food plots.

BioRocks are good. I also like to dig up and mix in Full Potential into the top 8-12 inches of soil in several key sites for every 50 acres of land. Place them in or near cover, where a mature buck is more likely to make use of them. By putting that many sites out, you can monitor which ones are most attractive and keep those activated while eliminating the others. Refresh them as needed, but avoid checking the site too often.

3. Add water. This one is pretty obvious. If a deer doesn’t have a source for water that it feels comfortable using it will move off your land to find it. If you expect him to use it during daylight, it needs to be in or adjacent to cover, with a route leading to it that doesn’t make him expose himself. If the source you have is in the open, you should build a travel corridor to it (see step one) with cover.

Water sources don’t have to be big or elaborate. You can often use rocks and logs to dam a small wet-weather stream. Placing water troughs, kids pools, or pond liner plastic in dug out spots is another relatively easy project. If you want to tackle both mineral and water needs in one step, consider the Banks Outdoors Watering Systems with their H2O Wild Water Mineral Supplement added to the water.

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4. Create or enhance staging areas. Crop fields and food plots are attractive to deer, but if they appear abruptly at the edge of open woods, mature bucks might not move into them until after dark. By adding or enhancing a staging area between the field and woods, older bucks will feel comfortable hanging out in these areas and perhaps even approach the plots in daylight. Cut down some low-value trees along the border to create a thicket of brush. Leaving some of the tops partially attached makes even more valuable cover. Grape vines, greenbrier and honeysuckle will grow up the fallen trees and form thick shelter that big bucks crave as they approach an open feeding area. And those plants are also great foods for deer. Add a few bushes from a nursery to fill in spots that are still too open and you’ll soon have a staging area bucks feel comfortable using well before dark. The edge should be at least 75 feet deep, 100-150 feet is better still. Be careful not to make the area too thick, though. Deer also like to socialize and see each other in these areas. 5. Plant native warm season grasses. This not only keeps more mature bucks on your property, it also benefits species such as quail, pheasants, turkeys and song-birds. Switchgrass is one of the easiest to grow and my favorite warm season grass. If you are considering planting a wet area, it’s definitely the one to choose. It can survive up to 30 days in standing water. Other species should also be considered such as Indian grass and big and little bluestem. I like to mix several of these in my plantings. These grasses will grow from 5-7 feet tall, providing great cover for both mature bucks and does which will draw in those bucks. You can plant these by broadcasting the seed and covering it lightly, but drilling is preferable. Special drills for these seeds are often available from local conservation agencies or farm co-ops. Since this is a strong conservation step for the land, government programs can sometimes be used to help finance seed purchase and planting. It’s not important to have large warm season grass fields. The main thing is to locate the stands in good strategic spots where deer will use them to bed in or go to when there’s pressure in other areas. Putting in several small plantings in long narrow fields is an excellent strategy.

I prefer not to hunt these warm season grass fields. Their best use is to hold deer on your property. On the other hand, hunting near them is a good way to intercept a buck moving out of the stand to chase a hot doe. This tactic yielded a huge eight pointer for me recently with bases just shy of six inches.

6. Add shrubs and vines. Habitats that are mostly open crop fields and mature woods can benefit from releasing and enhancing any shrubs and vines present and planting others. If you have Japanese honeysuckle, fertilizing can double the forage production of this non-native, but still valuable plant for deer. Also nurture any raspberry, blackberry, greenbrier, and plum shrubs on the property. These offer both food and valuable cover.

Trim them back if they are growing too high for deer to reach or pull the vines down. Also daylight them if low-value trees are shading them by cutting back overhanging branches of those trees. Adding lime and a 10-10-10 type fertilizer can also help.

If you lack these shrubs, consider planting rows or clusters of them or other plants such as strawberry bush, American beautyberry, shrub dogwoods, crabapple, and mulberry.

7. Build big buck bedding cover. Mature deer might walk through your land or venture onto it looking for does as the rut swings in. They might visit food plots you’ve created for a bite to eat, but you’ll never have old bucks stay on your land without good bedding cover.

Fortunately, that’s easy to create if you don’t have it. The first step is to select a good location. I like to position it far from human activity, close to the center of the property. A good spot would be on a shelf or bench or just a slight rise if that’s all the elevation that’s available. The heads of hollows are also good.

Bucks like to bed high and move low in the afternoon to feed or chase does. They typically choose the leeward side of a ridge or hill based on prevailing winds. Put your beds in these spots for maximum use.

Using a chain saw, cut some low value trees in the spot you’ve chosen. Don’t knock everything down, but enough to create a jungle-like rough and congested area that bucks will take to. Cut mostly low quality, bent, injured or diseased trees, and just hinge-cut some of them. Before starting, learn the safety rules for logging and always wear the proper protective gear. If you aren’t comfortable doing this work, hire a professional. He might cut the wood for firewood or pulp and take a few saw logs that you specify to make it worth his time coming in for the job. Besides creating a bedding area, this cutting also allows additional light to enter the woods by removing some of the overhead canopy that shades the forest floor. This lets new shrubs and forbs that offer valuable deer food emerge – species such as raspberry, blackberry, honeysuckle, greenbrier and grapes. That makes the jumble of fallen timber even more appealing as a buck hideout. Maple stumps from the cutting will also generate shoots that bucks snack on. Eventually saplings will spring up, adding even more cover.

Since you build this bedding area yourself, you’ll know exactly where it is and how it’s laid out. With trail cameras you’ll be able to quickly learn the routes bucks use as they head to it in the morning and leave in the afternoon—prime stand sites.

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8. Create a thermal refuge. To keep deer on your land during inclement weather, you need a thermal refuge. These can be anywhere from a half to several acres, close to the center of your property when possible. A dense grove of pines, spruce, or cedars offers deer thermal cover and shields them from blustery winds, snow and sleet in winter. The conifers are also immensely valuable as psychological security cover, offering great escape areas. When hunting pressure mounts on nearby lands, there’s nothing a buck craves more than thick cover and seclusion. His life depends on it. A grove of dense young evergreens in a secluded spot is just what he’s looking for. Species may vary according to what will do well in your area. I particularly like white pines. Plant as large of an area as you can, anywhere from one-half to several acres. To add extra wind protection and bedding cover, also fell several low-value small to medium trees, cutting some through and hinge-cutting others. Intersperse these through the conifer plantings.

9. Plant oaks. Most properties managed for whitetails have some of these, but you can improve their output by thinning trees around them. If you have enough open land, by all means consider planting more oaks purchased from state forestry departments or sources such as nativnurseries.com. Try to put in some early maturing and some late-maturing nut varieties. Planting these in open areas rather than woods will make them magnets for old bucks with the heavy mast crops they’ll produce there.

10. Give them fruit. They may not be important in the overall nutrition of a picture of a mature buck, but trees of species like pear, apple, mulberry, peach, and persimmon offer treats that will hold and draw deer to your property. They also provide a vital energy boost just before the rigors of winter set in and are packed with phosphorous and vitamins. Plant them in areas receiving at least five hours of sunlight. Slight slopes are good, rather than bottoms. Put in at least six trees in each location so they will cross pollinate. If possible, put tree shelters around them so they don’t get damaged by deer and rabbits.

11. Delineate sanctuaries. No matter how small your property, it’s vital to have some part of it placed off limits to any human activity except entering to retrieve a hit deer. It should have some cover, perhaps including some of your bedding areas and thermal cover sites. The rougher, thicker, and steeper the terrain, the better. If it’s an ideal habitat, five or ten acres may suffice for a sanctuary. In most cases much larger areas are better, up to 25-50 percent of a property sometimes. Besides delineating sanctuaries, also keep pressure light on areas that are hunted. Don’t use a stand when the wind is wrong or where the deer will be spooked by your entrance or exit from the stand. It won’t take much of that before mature bucks either leave your property or become nocturnal. Also keep a lid on non-hunting access and activities. Mature bucks and human activity simply don’t mix.

12. Don’t just “scatter” these improvements throughout a property. Rather, integrate them so they mesh and complement each other, helping, instead of hindering, your hunting success. And don’t forget to ask for help and advice from other gamekeepers nearby with similar properties.

Often state wildlife biologists will visit your land and give recommendations for free. Institute as many of the habitat projects described here as you can and chances are any mature bucks in the area will make your land their home year-round.

Turkey hunting was one of our favorite pastimes and we used to spend a ridiculous amount of time and energy simply getting ready for the hunting season to finally open. When it did, we would bundle up and head out in search of the perfect tom to dress our table. While we don’t get to go out too often anymore, we still highly recommend it.

In Ohio (as with many states) bag limits for wild turkey are ridiculously small, making this once-common game bird a delicacy each season. Even though this delicious meal is something we don’t get to eat every day, knowing the health benefits, nutrition, and safe handling of wild turkey meat is good information that might even make your next delicious roasted wild turkey taste better than it already does.

Just the Facts: Wild Turkey Meat vs Domestic Turkey

Wild turkeys feast on a varied diet that includes anything from seeds, acorns, and nuts to lizards, snails, and worms. This might not sound like the most appetizing feast to you and me, but for a turkey, the wild ones eat the best. Domestic turkey feed simply attempts to recreate the menu of wild turkey. The differences in diet are similar to what you find when looking at the nutrition of wild hogs vs domestic ones.

The biggest difference between wild turkey meat and domestic birds is in the fat content. Wild turkeys spend most of their lives moving from one place to another, flying up to roost in trees at night and avoid inevitable predators, giving these birds a more lean meat.

While domestic turkeys technically have more protein due to their controlled diet, they are also much higher in fat content because they don’t get as much exercise as their wild cousins.

According to the United States Department of Agriculture, 100 grams of turkey breast meat contains 29 grams of protein and 7 grams of fat. The same portion of wild turkey breasts offers 25 grams of protein but just 1 gram of fat. Darker meat from thighs and legs has even less fat but slightly less protein.

Both wild turkey meat and domestic turkey meat contain many important vitamins and nutrients so don’t worry about whether or not wild turkey is good for you. It’s more important to focus on learning the optimal way to cook the perfect wild turkey.

Best Ways to Cook Wild Turkey

Here is a little secret – one of the main reasons that wild turkey and regular turkey taste different is because of how they are cooked. Domestic turkey that you buy in the store is typically injected with salt water which adds weight and increases the juiciness, helping to prevent the finished bird from being too dry. Wild turkey, already significantly lower in fat, doesn’t have the benefit of brine injection and tends to dry out easily.

With that in mind, you will want to adjust how you cook wild turkey to get the best results. When done right, wild turkey is the most delicious of game birds.

The key to properly cooking wild turkey starts from the moment you kill the bird. It is important to field dress the bird as soon as possible. Start by removing the innards and crop. Don’t forget to remove the gland at the base of the tail while you are at it. Pluck the feathers while the bird is still warm. You’ll use short, swift tugs to remove the feathers a few at a time. If you wait until the bird has cooled, you’ll likely end up tearing the skin quite a bit and that is simply a waste. Thoroughly wash and dry the bird before putting it in the refrigerator. Like any game animal, you want to complete this process and get it in the cooler as quickly as possible.

Brining wild turkey is one common method to help prevent the bird from drying out while cooking. Brine allows you to add herbs and flavors that enhance the finished flavor. Cooking an unbrined wild turkey is a bit of a challenge, but the results are awesome. The trick is to use plenty of butter or olive oil to prevent drying out. As a bonus, butter and olive oil will help wild turkey taste good and finish tender. Make sure to check out our favorite brine recipe for smoked turkey.

Wild turkey can also be done in a slow cooker to help improve juiciness. It isn’t our favorite way to do it, but using a slow cooker will give you predictable results, especially when cooking wild turkey breast or skinny birds with strong muscles that taste dry.

No matter the cooking method you use when cooking turkey, you’ll need to aim for an internal temperature of at least 165 degrees. Take the measurement in the thickest part of the thighs. It is often best to separate the breasts from the whole bird when cooking because they will cook faster than other parts and can dry out. The cooking process you use should be carefully monitored to prevent overcooking.

What Does Wild Turkey Taste Like?

You are likely to hear lots of people tell you that wild turkey tastes nothing like store-bought birds. They are right, but that also doesn’t tell you much about what wild turkey actually tastes like.

Think of it like this – wild turkey tastes more like turkey gravy, whereas store-bought turkey tastes like a package of sliced turkey breast on sale at the grocery store.

Wild birds aren’t necessarily gamey like many types of wild meat, but it also depends on what the birds are eating.

Fall turkey and spring turkey also don’t taste the same, but fall is the best time to bag a bird for Thanksgiving turkey.

Wild turkey breast meat is darker than domestic breast meat and has a lot more intense flavor, in part because of the lack of injected brine. Wings are bigger because of the birds’ powerful flight abilities and the unique taste is simply better than a store-bought bird.

Ready to Try It This Season?

The chance to eat wild turkey doesn’t come around all that often, so you should treat the chance with respect. Wild bird was once one of the most common things that Americans ate, but these days, strict limits make the chance to savor these delicious game birds a unique opportunity.

But we’d say it’s totally worth the time and effort spent preparing for the hunting season, scouting our favorite spots, and gearing up for the hunt. A properly cooked wild turkey is one of life’s simple gifts that we believe should be savored and appreciated.

If you manage to bag one, don’t forget to try out Scott’s classic maple chipotle turkey recipe.

Maine is blessed with a healthy, stable population of black bear, conservatively estimated at 35,000. Statewide we average 9 bears/100 square miles; in our area, WMD 9, the percentage is much higher. Our region in north central Maine, is a consistent producer of adult bears each season and the new state record bear weighing 699 lbs. was taken on a bear bait less than 20 miles from our lodge in 2012. In the areas we hunt, our hunters consistently tag better than 1 out of every 3 bears taken here each fall. That is not due to sheer numbers but the quality of the hunt. As bear hunting outfitters we limit each weekly hunt to 10 participants, to ensure personalized service. We have hunted this area since 1995 and know how to do it right! We manage our hunting area for a sustainable harvest, consulting with the state bear biologist for harvest goals to maintain a healthy, stable population of mature bears.

Our goal is to provide you the hunter an opportunity to harvest a mature Maine Black Bear dressing over 200 lbs. (add approx. 17% for live weight). Bears reach full adult size, at about 4-6 years of age. Boars average 250-600 pounds and measure 5-6 feet from tip of nose to the tip of their tail. Females are smaller, weighing 100-400 pounds, and measuring 4-5 feet in length. Males stand about 40 inches tall at the shoulder whereas sows seldom exceed 30 inches in height. We have virtually 100% sightings for each hunter and over 90% success rate. (Some good bears are passed by discriminating, returning hunters waiting for a bigger trophy than their last bruin.) Year after year we have about one third of our hunters coming back for another hunt.

The four-week bait season for bear varies slightly each year, but is generally the last week of August through the third week of September. The state tabulations for 2018 (latest available at this time) show the following:

Nonresident hunters took 63% (2,064) of the 3,314 bears tagged and 92% (1,903) of them were on guided hunts. 94% (3,127) were adult bears and 57% were males. 74% of successful hunters took their bear over bait

The numbers show that your very best chance to shoot a mature Maine black bear is to book with a reputable guide and outfitter. And of course we hope you will consider Northern Pride Lodge for your Maine bear hunt.

Choosing Your Bear Hunting Guide or Outfitter

There are many bear outfitters or bear guides to choose from. Make your choice carefully. We are avid hunters ourselves, and we strive to provide to you the type of hunt that we would look for when we are booking a guided hunt. Here are some of the things that set us apart from other operations:

• We have sighting in at the range upon arrival and orientation meetings the first night. Often a Game Warden will join us for our evening meal and you will gain a world of insight from his experience. After dinner, we review recent game camera pictures, and explain how to judge the size of a bear, shot placement and share many tips.
• Our stands are comfortable and safe, 15 foot steel ladder stands certified by the Treestand Manufacturer’s Association. We require safety straps and have plenty available if you do not have one.
• Our sites are pre-baited starting in July (when the law first allows), monitored by game cameras to pattern the bears’ activity for up to 30 days prior to your hunt (see pictures on right), and set up with our prevailing winds in mind.
• We set our stands to provide bow hunters 16-20 yard shots and gun hunters with 30-35 yard shots.
• Stands are set for left- or right-handed shooters and have shooting rails or bow hangers, as needed by the hunter.
• We have many bear bait sites in several different areas. We hunt one area each hunt week, ensuring that each week’s hunters, throughout the season, can hunt “fresh” areas.
• We place you on active sites, monitored with game cameras and we have multiple sites available for each hunter. You won’t get stuck staring at the same scenery day after day. 100% sightings.
• Our guides deliver you directly to your stand, make sure you are situated and freshen the bait (which is included in your hunt, no additional fees, no up-selling to a “premium bait.” Every stand gets the best.)
• Each hunter is provided a radio for safety and quick response by your guide.
• We will field dress and hang your bear in our cooler shed. We have good butchers and taxidermists we can recommend as well.
• We provide scent free soap, and advice on scent management as well as keeping your hunting clothing scent-free.
• Always ethical, lawful hunting. Never cited for a violation.

If you would like to see the freshest game camera pictures, just like us on Facebook.

How We Run Our Bear Hunts Here in Maine

Our bear hunting packages provide a great opportunity to harvest a big game trophy that eludes many hunters who have spent a lifetime in the woods. The thrill of seeing a mature boar or sow silently appear at the edge of your vision is enough to get anyone’s heart beating faster!

The way we set up our hunts and bait sites makes it easily enjoyed by anyone capable of climbing a ladder. We accommodate bow hunters, muzzleloaders, pistol and rifle hunters and we have stands to accommodate right- or left-handed hunters, at comfortable, confident shooting distances. Youths can get a youth license and hunt, accompanied by an adult; at 16 years old they can hunt on their own. We can set a pair of stands together for a parent and child shared hunt and a lifelong memory for both. On the other hand, we have had hunters in their 80’s bag their bear! Your guide will drive you to within easy walking distance and get you settled into the stand. We can also accommodate couples or those unable to climb with ground blinds.

Radios are provided for immediate access to your guide when you need him. He will come and collect you at the stand at the end of legal shooting time and take you back to the lodge for the evening meal and yarns.

Comfortable rooms and plenty of good hot food [see menu for representative meals] will be ready for you. It is always a great time of sharing stories with fellow hunters. With a limit of 10 hunters per week, you will get a chance to reunite with returning friends and to make new ones. The camaraderie between bear hunters is a special aspect of our kind of people. When we mention repeat customers let’s just say that we are not talking about everybody who ever came a second time. We have hunters that come year after year and even have a couple standing reservations for every year. We earn that loyalty and it bring us great joy. We will do everything we can to assure you have a great time on your own Maine bear hunt.

Typical Day – What to Expect on Your Bear Hunt

This is a gear list (note this as additional page) of what we recommend you have on your hunt. You can always call us to discuss special needs or ask advice on equipment and gear. We’ve probably seen it all over the years.

Your hunt with us starts with a Sunday afternoon arrival. We serve our Prime Rib dinner around 5 pm and afterward have a get together with all the staff and the weeks’ hunters, so that everyone can get to know each other. After dinner we meet in our gathering area to give everyone a rundown on what the week will be like and to answer any questions you may have. This covers all aspects of your hunt and your time at the lodge. We discuss bear behavior and review game camera photos, how to judge bear size, where to place your shot and what to do after the shot. When available, we have our local warden here to help cover local hunting laws and issues that they have encountered during previous bear seasons. This is a very informative yet casual gathering and we have been complimented many times on how helpful it has been to the hunters.

Your hunting day starts with breakfast at about 7 am. While you are enjoying your meal, your guides will be out putting fresh bait at each site and inspecting the bear sign from the previous feeding. Your morning can be spent fishing on our lake or on the nearby Roach River, which can be excellent at this time of year. Some hunters also try their luck at calling coyotes.

Lunch is our big dinner of the day and is served about Noon. After eating, you will shower and get ready to go out for the afternoon hunt. Transportation to and from your bait site is included. Wayne corrals everyone about 2:30-3:00 pm and begins to deliver hunters to the sites. You will be walked into the bait site and your guide will wait while you climb into the 15-foot ladder, T.M.A. certified tree stand, clip in to your safety line and get comfortable. Each hunter is given a radio, for safety and so when a bear is shot, the guides can respond quickly, to recover the bear. On occasion we have big bears feeding on baits in the mornings. When this happens we will sometimes put a hunter out in the AM.

Legal hunting hours end ½ hour after sunset each day. If you have not had an opportunity for a shot and are still in your stand, the guides pick up each hunter at the end of legal shooting. Your bear guide will walk in to the stand by flashlight, in order to assist you in exiting, but also to ‘spook’ any nearby bears so that they do not peg a hunter descending from the stand. Once all of the hunters have been picked up, you arrive back at the waterfront lodge to a hearty meal and tales of bear sightings and bears shot.

Book your Bear Hunt Now

We still have openings for this season so give us a call at (207) 695-2890 to hear our competitive rates and reserve your bear hunt. We are often asked which week is the most opportune to hunt. Over the entire season we have consistent success and large bears have been taken early and late in the season. Our numerous bait sites allow us to keep entire areas fresh for each successive week’s hunters. So, week 1, week 2 or week 3, you can be confident of bear sightings and shot opportunities.

Licenses are available locally or online. Check the state’s Bear Hunting Page for current regulations, license and permits fees.

Testimonials

“Thank you for the wonderful time I spent at your lodge. If anyone says they had a better bear hunt or food somewhere else they’re just plain lying.”

Joe, Georgia

“I just wanted to say thanks again for the great bear hunt I had with you this fall. Your lodge was comfortable, warm and squeaky clean. The menu was outstanding and the meals couldn’t have been better.”

“The success of your hunters is due in the most part to Wayne’s hard work and positive attitude. The fact that most of the hunters saw bear every night speaks volumes for your hunts. Of course, the best part of Northern Pride Lodge is the friendly atmosphere you provide. From the time I arrived I felt welcome and at home in your lodge.

“It’s not often that you do something that really, really exceeds your expectations but this was one of them!”

Dave, New York

“You have a really great hunting service and my hunting experience with you was just incredible and it was exceptionally exciting. …it was your attitude, friendliness and exceptionally good nature that made my stay in your house feel like my own home. All of the meals were really extraordinary, even overwhelming.”

Ellis, Georgia

Gear List – Bear Hunter’s Checklist:

Weapons: .270’s and the .30 calibers are all good choices, as are shotguns with slugs and muzzleloaders. .44 mag and larger hand guns with a good solid-base bullet, and bows and crossbows are also effective options. Sight guns in for 30 yards. We will check all guns at the range before hunting.

Safety Harness: We require a safety harness in our tree stands. If you do not have one, don’t worry-we have plenty to loan out.

Clothing: Dark camo clothing head to toe, hat, face mask and gloves. Must be quiet clothing. Scent elimination is a must, so keep your hunting clothes scent free. Clothes should be warm weather or something comfortable for 40° – 65° and sitting still for about 4 hours. Also bring rain gear, just in case.

Flashlight or headlamp: whichever is your preference.

Pee bottle (you don’t want to get in and out of the tree stand)

Boots: I prefer rubber boots or at least rubber bottoms

Coolers to take your meat back in

Slippers or something to slip into when you get back to the lodge (no muddy, bloody boots worn in the lodge, please)

Rain Gear: quiet, dark camo pattern

Seat Cushions: some stands have them, some don’t. Bring one just in case, if you can.

You will need proof of a current hunting license in your home state or proof of completing a hunter safety course in order to get your Maine hunting license. Maine hunting licenses can be obtained prior to coming to Maine by logging onto Maine Inland Fisheries & Wildlife. Don’t forget, you need a big game license or archery license and a bear permit.

A fishing license is also required, if you intend to fish. The fly-fishing-only Roach River can be spectacular in September. Fishing licenses are also available locally, if you’d like to wait until you’ve taken your bear.

Rates

Visit our hunting pricing page for rates and options.

If you’re anything like me, I want to get the best of what my money can buy.

I set a criteria for the best binoculars under $100 from Vortex, Celestron, and Bushnell.

But I also recommend a couple cheap binos that are worth it – real glass, decent focus, and a good build.

To provide some real input, I also field-tested some of my very own personal cheap binoculars!

8 Best Binoculars Under $100 In 2024

1. Nikon Aculon A211 8X42 – Editors Choice
2. Celestron Outland X 10X42 – Best All-Round
3. Bushnell H20 10X42
4. Vortex Raptor 8.5×32
5. Bushnell PowerView 10×50
6. Celestron SkyMaster 25×70
7. Binoteck 10×42 – Best Under $50
8. Tasco Essentials 10X25

The Best Cheap Binoculars Under $100

Not all binoculars cost several hundred dollars. But not all binoculars will be a one-time, lifetime pair. However, you can still get something that’s worth it for daily use for less than $100.

You don’t have to compromise for plastic “glass” or generic no-name brands. Vortex, Bushnell, Nikon, and Celestron have quality binoculars in this cost-conscious price range.

Though these budget binoculars don’t have industry-level resolution or military-grade toughness, they can get the job done.

For the money, they’ll perform for recreational applications, some hunting, and definitely neighborhood spying – oops, I meant, “observation.”

With decent to above-average glass and performance, my top 8 binocular picks, including a couple of my own field-tested models, meet my criteria.

Our 8 Top Binoculars Less Than $100

1. Nikon Aculon A211 8×42 – Editors Choice

The Aculon is always priced below $100, no matter what!

With this Nikon hanging from your shoulder, you’ll have an extremely wide field of view, fully multi-coated lenses, and aspherical glass elements to help you get the best image quality possible from a cheap binocular.

Even with only 8X power, you can still mount this baby to a tripod. Nikon knows how to jam in quality for the lowest prices possible. It’s probably why it’s such a popular buy among the hunting community. Are you ready to join the “in” crowd?

2. Celestron Outland X 10×42

Unlike most binoculars in this price range, you’re getting a lightweight roof prism bino from the Celestron Outland unit. For under 100 bucks, you’ll be set to go without the added weight holding you back.

Pros:

• BaK4 glass
• Waterproof
• Fogproof
• Better quality strap

Cons:

• Multi-coated

I’ve had my hands on the Outland X and they were an extremely convenient pair to have for quick glassing and some occasional birding. It’s light weight at 23.6 oz – not the lightest out there, but still good for today’s standard.

The strap is better quality than what comes with most cheap binoculars – the case is better too. I think its real value will be from its clear glass performance. Though it has only multi-coated lenses versus FMC, it’s not unlike similar alternatives from known manufacturers in this price range.

The entire body is fully protected by a rubber armor, and as is typical with roof prisms, it’s fully waterproof and has been nitrogen-purged. This is a big deal because most budget binoculars will be weather-resistant at best.

If you’re looking for a slimmer binocular versus the bulky builds of the Porros, the Outland is your pick!

3. Bushnell H2O 10X42 Roof

Bushnell knows how to appeal to the cost-conscious buyer. They have a wide inventory of binos priced just right and the H2O is a winning optic among them all.

Pros:

• Eye relief
• Lightweight
• BaK4 glass
• Roof prism
• Waterproof

Cons:

• Multi-coated

For under 100 bucks, having multi-coated optics is the standard. However, this “standard” paired with roof prisms without the addition of phase or prism-specific coatings does result in a slightly darker image than what you’d expect. It may not be as clear a picture compared to a Porro prism bino with multi-coated optics, but on a good day for being outside, you likely won’t notice the difference.

For recreational purposes like observing wildlife while at the lake, casual bird watching, or on a hike, the H2O binos should be just what you need. Because of its roof prism design, it can be made waterproof which it is. It’s also lightweight at 25 ounces that is around the standard for a 10×42 bino these days.

Keep your glasses on with this small pair because it has decent eye relief of 17 mm and twist-up eyecups which is a step up from the fold-up or winged kind often seen in this price range. The compact bino comes with the usual: neck strap, nylon carry case with belt loop, looped rubber lens caps, and a hinged eyepiece cover.

As an entry-level bino that has been bought, used, and put through the ringer by several hundred buyers, it’s a solid buy.

4. Vortex Raptor 8.5×32

You read this right! There’s a Vortex in this price range. It’s no gimmick. The Raptor is a high quality binocular that smokes many other Vortex units when it comes to the ratings.

It’s extremely popular with the masses, and us, for its wide field of view, fully multi-coated lenses, and weatherproof-ability. Even better, it’s more compact and lightweight than its Porro prism bino competitors!

Plus, the warranty on it is practically unbeatable. Technically, this Vortex doesn’t belong in this price range, so if you’re going to spend less than 100 bucks, you better get it while it’s on sale!

5. Bushnell Powerview 10×50

If you’re looking for that Mossy Oak finish that compliments every hunters’ gear, the Powerview 10X50 more than gets the job done.

It’s extremely popular, and it’s been built to impress. With large objectives and the InstaFocus system, you’ll be glassing past sundown.

It’s an impressive, all-purpose binocular that has basic features, but the price can’t be beat for the 10X50 platform with the stylish finish. Thanks to the PowerView, you’ll have max power for max hunting success!

6. Celestron SkyMaster 25X70

For long-distance viewing in the skies or on the ground, you’ll need the long reach of the SkyMaster 25×70 binoculars. With high power and low cost – we’d say Celestron has found the perfect balance in this SkyMaster model.

Pros:

• Price
• High power
• 70 mm aperture
• BaK4 glass
• Porro prism

Cons:

• Short eye relief

A SkyMaster is no small binocular. It has big expectations to fill and so its large frame is a direct reflection of its capabilities. Weighing a heavy 52 ounces and measuring 8.7 x 4.3 x 11 inches in size, this bino is not meant to be handheld by any means. It’s intended to be mounted to a tripod that you’ll have to purchase separately, but it does come with an included tripod adapter that’ll save you a few bucks.

The large objective lenses that are 70 mm in diameter are directly related to the overall weight of the bino. With those large peepers, it’ll allow in as much light as possible to provide a bright, clear picture of celestial bodies or that far-away herd of caribou in the distance.

As a Porro prism bino, it doesn’t need any fancy prism coatings – good thing because it doesn’t have any. All air-to-glass surfaces are multi-coated, it’s water-resistant and not waterproof, and it lacks gas-purged chambers for fog-proof protection – all of which is standard for an optic under 100 bucks.

However, the downer is the short eye relief. For those who don’t wear spectacles or sunglasses while using binoculars, the 13 mm should be fine. For everyone else – it may be uncomfortable to use.

This SkyMaster giant is for adventurers on a budget who enjoy seeing stars or wildlife. It’s not a professional-grade optic, but it is a fun one the entire family can get hours of enjoyment from.

Best Binoculars Under $50

Yes, I have a couple suggestions for this very low price range. You really can’t go cheaper than this if you plan on taking your binoculars seriously. So, here is my recommendation if you have less than $50 to spend.

(By the way, the Bushnell PowerView 10X50 mentioned above is just barely over the $50 price tag. It’s also worth considering if you want a full-size binocular and can stretch your budget by just a few dollars more).

7. Binoteck 10X42 – Best Under $50

The Binoteck 10×42 binoculars are surprisingly very good considering its very low price point. With BaK4 glass, fully multi-coated lenses, and a 305 ft FOV, the Binotecks do ‘cheap’ very, very well.

Pros:

• FMC coatings
• BaK4 glass
• Adjustable eyecups
• Good focusing
• Tripod adaptable

Cons:

• Not waterproof

The Binotecks are water and dust-resistant with an IP55 rating, so heavy rain and even accidental submersion must be avoided – you do not want water in the eyepieces. Yes, I did it and they survived, but do as I say not as I do. Though not fog-proof, they did fantastic with moving from a warm truck to freezing temperatures outside.

I really don’t have any serious complaints about them. I took them on a December elk hunt in mountain timber a couple years ago. To my surprise, they did well for around 20-100 yards. When I had longer glassing terrain, I couldn’t get the sharp resolution I wanted. Though they won’t be going for another hunt, the clarity was beyond what I expected for under $50. Don’t let the digiscoping fool you – the image quality is much better in person.

The Binotecks have adjustable eyecups, a diopter, and a tripod receiver. I don’t think you’ll need to mount it since it’s exceptionally lightweight at 16 oz. I’m accustomed to 10x42s weighing in over 21 oz and I can feel the difference. Though it has a good rubber armor, the weak points are at the objective and eyepiece bells. I suggest resisting the temptation to peel it back.

I’m happy to report that I could acquire collimation (no double vision) with these cheap Binotecks. I adjusted with the diopter for my vision thus avoiding the need to wear my glasses. I’d say the eye relief is around 15mm. With my glasses on, it’s tight – doable but uncomfortable.

Overall, my box only came with the rainguard (eyepiece cap), lens caps, neck strap, and lens cloth. I’ve been impressed enough with the Binotecks to keep and recommend them as a recreational and convenient pair for quick glassing.

Available at: Amazon

8. Tasco Essential 10X25

Spending bare minimum doesn’t mean you have to settle. What it does mean is you can have the Tasco Essentials 10X25 binoculars with the roof prism design, fully multi-coated optics, and a plethora of available color finishes.

They are compact, foldable, and lightweight. Are you landing a quality binocular for a song – oh yeah!

In fact, this Tasco has a surprising number of reviews online, and a very impressive customer satisfaction score considering they will put you back a mere $25. They might not be your lifetime buy, but at this price they will make a great starter binocular.

What to Look for in a Cheap Binocular

Making the most of every penny when you’re spending in this price range comes down to knowing a bit about binoculars. Keep it simple by maintaining your sights on quality glass and durability.

Glass Quality

While you’re not going to get Zeiss or Swarovski glass in this price range, you can still look for the best coatings of what this price category has to offer and that would be fully multi-coated lenses.

Since special coatings for roof prisms are rare on binoculars under $100. You may want to put your money into a Porro prism binocular if you want the best glass performance in this price range. If you don’t mind glassing with something a little bulky and heavy, it’s likely to be your best buy here.

You’ll see a lot of standard configurations, examples: 8×42 and 10×42, in this price range. Going higher in magnification with the glass expected at this price point may result in degraded image quality.

Eye Relief

The eye relief is the distance from your eyes to the eyepiece in which you can acquire a full field of view free of aberrations.

The lower the number, the tighter the eye relief. Physically, this means it brings the lenses closer to your eyes and they can can dig into your brows and the bridge of your nose. The higher the number, the longer and more comfortable it is – especially for those who wear glasses.

*Not disclosed: best guesstimate from personal hands-on experience

Durability

Not all binoculars in this price range will be weatherproof – if it is, excellent! Most will be water-resistant at best, but it’s common sense to avoid heavy rain and submersion with budget binoculars.

The very best in this price range will not only be waterproof but fogproof too. The barrels are purged of oxygen with an inert dry gas like nitrogen. This keeps mold and fungi from growing on the inside and from internal condensation from fogging up the lenses. Body armor will also help your binoculars last longer.

*Water-resistant – not waterproof

Cheap VS Junk: The Difference

There’s a difference to buyer satisfaction when buying low budget binoculars when you’re informed. When you don’t know what to look for, you are at risk of buying junk – plastic lenses and the lot.

Look for the type of glass the prisms have been made with, what level of coatings they have, if they have a wide FOV, are tripod adaptable for mounting, or if they’re water and fogproof. When you know to look for at least a few of these things, you’ll know how to make the most of your hard-earned money.

Not all cheap binoculars are bad. These are the gems that are worth the money!

Further Reading

• Bushnell Fusion 1-Mile ARC Rangefinding Binoculars Review (w/ Angle Compensation)
• Celestron Outland X 10×42 Review – Popular Binoculars (Model 71347)
• Celestron TrailSeeker 8×42 Binocular Review (Model 71404)
• Bushnell Legend 10×25 Ultra HD Binocular Review – With Compact Roof Prism (Model 190125)
• How to Adjust Binoculars: 4 Essential Adjustments to Master Today

It wasn’t the fish heads poking out of the Stargazy Pie that stopped more than a few of our readers cold. It was the eyeballs.

“Not a lot of food nowadays has eyes; what’s up with that?” one reader asked in commenting on a recent Salt post that featured a photo of the historic dish, which involves whole fish (eyes and all) poking out of a pie.

Turns out, quite a lot of cuisine features eyeballs. But there’s no question that in many cultures, eating eyes is a food taboo.

I first ran afoul of this when I cooked up ukha, a famous Russian fish soup, for a group of friends. The fish heads make for a beautiful clear broth, and my husband, who grew up in Kamchatka, wanted to make sure those big old heads swam in his bowl.

Alas, when the bowls were laid out, the one with fish eyes staring balefully upward landed in front of the most fastidious eater in the room. He has never dined at my house again.

So I called James Serpell, director of the Center for the Interaction of Animals and Society at the University of Pennsylvania, and asked why eyes creep people out.

“Eyes represent faces,” he said, “and it’s through the face that we learn to recognize and empathize with others. So it’s not entirely surprising that we find eyeballs disconcerting.”

Serpell learned that firsthand when he sat down to eat with a family in Iceland. They served svio, or boiled sheep’s head. “You get half a sheep’s head on your plate,” he told The Salt. “And you eat everything. Ears, eyes, nose — everything.”

Everything, including the eyeball. “The consistency is quite offensive,” he reports.

But even traditional Icelanders have their food taboos — the sheep head was served without the brain. “When I said, ‘Where’s the brain?’ they looked at me with horror.”

When it comes to Americans, “people in our culture are disgusted by eating any non-muscle part of edible animals, says Paul Rozin, a professor of psychology at the University of Pennsylvania who studies human food choice and disgust. “Eyes may be special because it is so clear that they are an animal part, and they have some special significance for many people.”

Maybe the eyes of other mammals are just a bit too close to home for most people. Fish eyes seem the most acceptable form of ocular cuisine, my fastidious soup-eating friend excluded. As our well-traveled readers pointed out, small fish are eaten whole in many cultures, from British whitebait to the dried fish snacks ubiquitous at Asian groceries. Elvers, tiny eels that resemble spaghetti, are popular not just in Europe but also in Asia.

Indeed, Asian cultures probably win the prize for not just tolerating but embracing fish eyes, both raw, as in sushi, and cooked. “I’ve had the fist-sized eye of a garoupa, steamed and garnished. (Gelatinous.),” one of our intrepid readers commented. “And in Asia fish tend to be cooked with the head on — it’s a sign of good fortune when things have a head and a tail!”

Shanghai-born food blogger Chichi Wang relishes fish eyes: “The trick to eating a fish eyeball is to keep it in your mouth for as long as possible,” she writes. “A rush of fatty fish flavor is accompanied by a gelatinous, spongy texture. Swallow too quickly and you’ll miss the nuances.”

When she was little, Wang’s mom always saved the fish eyes just for her. So when relatives recently gathered at a Cantonese restaurant, Wang offered her mom the fish eyes as a special treat.

“Take that away,” her mom said. “Fish eyeballs are really gross.”

Wang then realized that what had seemed to be the selfless act of motherhood had been instead an act of self-protection.

In the past few years, more adventurous Americans seem to be discovering fish eyes (and we’re not talking the slang for tapioca pudding). Look on chat boards devoted to the protein-rich paleo diet, and you’ll find debates on the nutritional benefits of caribou eyes.

And in Chicago, chef Cary Taylor took on the challenge of making a fish eye dish. After his fishmonger refused to provide pre-gouged eyeballs (“he said there was no way he was going to have his guys in the back cutting out fish eyeballs or they would riot,” Taylor told the Chicago Reader), the chef cooked up grouper-head soup. He then squeezed out the eyeball gel (best use gloves, he says) as a flavoring and thickener.

“It didn’t seem to be a super distinctive taste to me,” Taylor reported, though he did like the soup’s nice, fresh seafood taste. He’s now contemplating offering a free shot of whiskey to customers willing to suck the eyeballs out of a whole roasted fish.

Would you eat those eyeballs? Have you? Or is that a food that’s best left as a taboo? Tell us what you think.

Chipmunks can be a real nuisance when they start invading your property. They can damage plants, gardens, and even homes. If you’re looking for tips on how to get rid of chipmunks, you’ve come to the right place. In this blog post, we will share some tips on how to get rid of chipmunks using different methods. Read on for more information.

What Is a Chipmunk?

A chipmunk is a small, ground-dwelling squirrel that is found in North America. Chipmunks are members of the squirrel family, which also includes rats, mice, and voles. These animals are easily recognizable by their striped backs and bushy tails. Chipmunks are usually brown or gray in color, but they can also be reddish or black.

Chipmunks typically measure 8 to 10 inches in length, including their tail. They weigh between 2 and 5 ounces. Male and female chipmunks are similar in size and appearance.

What Do Chipmunks Eat?

Chipmunks are omnivorous animals, which means that they eat both plants and animals. Their diet consists mostly of seeds, nuts, fruits, and insects. In the wild, chipmunks typically live for 2 to 3 years. However, in captivity, they can live up to 10 years.

Chipmunks are active during the day and sleep at night. They are solitary creatures that only come together to mate. During the winter months, chipmunks hibernate in underground burrows.

Chipmunks Versus Squirrels:

It’s easy to confuse chipmunks with squirrels, but there are some key differences between these two animals. For one, chipmunks are much smaller than squirrels. They also have stripes on their backs, while squirrels do not. Finally, chipmunks typically eat insects and other small creatures, while squirrels primarily eat nuts and seeds.

If you’re not sure whether you’re dealing with a chipmunk or a squirrel, the best way to tell them apart is by their size and appearance. Chipmunks are small animals with striped backs, while squirrels are larger animals with solid-colored fur.

(Do squirrels carry rabies? See this post for more)

How Do Chipmunks Get in the House?

Chipmunks typically live in the wild, but they will sometimes enter homes in search of food or shelter. If a chipmunk finds its way into your house, it can be a real nuisance. These animals are known to damage furniture, gnaw on electrical wires, and contaminate food sources.

Why Are Chipmunks a Problem?

Chipmunks are generally not a problem for people. However, these animals can become a nuisance if they start invading your property. Chipmunks are attracted to yards and gardens because they offer food and shelter. These animals will eat plants, fruits, and nuts from your garden. They can also damage trees and shrubs by burrowing into them. In addition, chipmunks can carry diseases that can be harmful to humans, such as rabies.

Are Chipmunks Dangerous?

Chipmunks are generally not dangerous to humans. However, these animals can carry diseases that can be harmful to humans, such as rabies. If you are bitten by a chipmunk, it is important to seek medical attention immediately.

If you have a chipmunk problem on your property, it’s important to take action quickly. These little rodents can cause a lot of damage and may even carry diseases. If you’re not sure how to get rid of chipmunks, read on for some tips.

How to Get Rid of Chipmunks Indoors?

• Isolate dogs and cats in a room or crate;
• Close all interior doors;
• Open windows and doors leading to the outside;
• Wait for the chipmunk to find its way out.
• Set a humane trap with sunflower seeds, pumpkin, raisins, cereal, or nuts to lure it;
• Release the chipmunk back into the wild.

How Do I Know If I Have Chipmunks?

There are a few signs that you may have chipmunks on your property. The most obvious sign is the presence of these animals. If you see a chipmunk, it is likely that there are more nearby. You may also see burrows or holes in the ground. These are typically located near foundations, trees, or shrubs. In addition, you may hear chattering or scampering noises coming from inside your walls or beneath your floors. If you think you have chipmunks, it’s important to take action quickly to get rid of them before they cause any damage.

How To Get Rid of Chipmunk Tunnels?

Chipmunks burrow underground to create their homes, which can be a problem for people if the tunnel is located on your property. These animals will dig holes in your yard, which can damage your landscaping. In addition, chipmunk tunnels can create trip hazards. If you have a chipmunk tunnel on your property, you can get rid of it by filling it in with dirt or rocks. You can also try using traps or repellents to discourage the chipmunks from digging new tunnels.

How To Deter Chipmunks?

There are several things you can do to deter chipmunks from your property. First, try to make your yard less inviting by removing food sources, such as bird feeders, pet food, and garbage cans. You can also try using traps or repellents to discourage the chipmunks from coming onto your property. Finally, if all else fails, you may need to call in a professional pest control company to help get rid of the chipmunks for good.

How to Get Rid of Chipmunks Outdoors?

• Keep Your Yard Clean: Remove potential food sources, such as bird feeders and pet food.
• Set Traps: You can purchase chipmunk traps at your local hardware store. Be sure to follow the instructions carefully so that you don’t accidentally trap other animals.
• Repellents: There are a number of commercial repellents available that can help keep chipmunks away.
• Spicy Spray: You can make your own repellent by mixing cayenne pepper and water.Professional Help:
• Introducing Predators: One way to get rid of chipmunks is by introducing predators, such as owls, into your yard. For example, to encourage owls onto your property, create an owl box as an easy-to-use nesting spot
• Call a Professional: If you’re still having trouble getting rid of chipmunks, you may need to call in a professional pest control company.
• Do-it-Yourself Method: Using an air rifle is one of the effective ways to get rid of chipmunks on your property for good.

(For more on the best air rifles for pest control, see this post)

GOOD BAIT FOR A GOOD CRAYFISH CATCH

To catch lots of crayfish, you need a good, productive, crayfish trap. But without bait, even the best trap isn’t much good. To catch crayfish, you need bait. That’s a simple and accurate statement. Here comes the difficult question.

WHAT IS THE BEST BAIT?

Ask several persons this question, and you’ll get several answers. Here is my simple answer to this question:

FISH MAKES THE BEST CRAYFISH BAIT

Traditionally crayfish traps in most countries are baited with fish. Swedes use sunfish, shiners and herring while Louisiana Cajuns often entice the crawfish with gizzard shad and pogies (menhaden). A commercial crayfisherman on the West Coast catches his crayfish with salmon heads and other oily fish. Lately, I had good luck using salmon trimmings from the local grocery store. For free!

Yes, fish makes an enticing bait that usually surpasses all other baits. But that doesn’t mean other sources of bait won’t work. For years I bought cheap chicken necks and wings and had very good success with them. One store trimmed their chickens leaving the backs of the birds at a reasonable price. I brought home thousands of crayfish with chicken backs.

But, as I said, each person has his own opinion about bait. A description about crayfish catching from Finland, a country that knows plenty about catching crayfish, included as good bait “a stealthily shot neighbor’s cat”. But it also mentions squirrels, chickens and other assorted animals as well as fish from the lake where the fishing takes place.

Loading the boat with baited traps

But here is a warning. Crayfish bait must be fresh! Contrary to some people’s opinions, crayfish don’t like spoiled, smelly or sour bait, be it fish or meat. I found that out the hard way recently. I had several pieces of turkey necks left over from a successful 1400 catch in the mountains. After four days of keeping the bait unrefrigerated, I froze it after arriving home. Then, some weeks later, I defrosted the old bait and used it in a lake known for its large amount of crayfish. To my great surprise and disappointment, I caught very few crayfish under conditions that usually had been very productive.

Analyzing the conditions that led to the dismal catch, I came to the conclusion that it was the spoiled bait. I recalled that, as I was baiting the traps, the bait felt slimey and obviously was too far gone to be considered fresh. It was just plain foul fowl!

A few weeks later I returned to the same lake. This time I brought fresh bait in the form of fresh salmon trimmings from the local food store. With traps located in the same general area, I now had a good catch. I finally believed my friend and crayfish expert who had told me that crayfish demand fresh bait. It’s simply a myth that they eat rotten food.

Another rule about bait is this:

THE MORE BAIT, THE MORE CRAYFISH!

Again and again I find that the more bait I put in a trap, the more crayfish I catch. What probably happens is that as soon as the crayfish have eaten all the bait, they simply start looking for a way out of the trap. That explains why a Finnish article about crayfish catching stated that up to 75% of the crayfish in an overnight trap eventually escape. Well, wouldn’t YOU start looking for the exit if you either had had your fill or if you found that all the food was gone?

Many crayfish traps have some kind of an escape stopper, some quite efficient, some not. But here is the solution to crayfish escaping a trap. It has been well documented that as long as a trap has good bait in it, crayfish who have already entered the trap, will stay there while new crayfish still will be entering the trap. Once I discovered this secret, I found that my traps were much more likely to be full of crays, whether the trap had an escape stopper or not. So, keep your traps filled with good bait, and you will catch more crayfish. The traditional spiral netted Swedish traps can not be equipped with escape stoppers. Consequently, when I use those traps, I make it a rule to empty them at least every four hours all through the night. That way I get lots of crayfish, but very little sleep…

When you empty traps that have to be checked every three of four hours, be sure to bring some fresh bait. Often the traps are simply empty of bait. And empty traps don’t catch crayfish. This rebaiting can be tricky in the dark, but it pays off.

Some trap manufacturers supply their traps with a little container for bait. The idea is to let the scent of the bait entice the crayfish without letting them actually eat it up. In theory that sounds fine. Recent experience tells me that this sometimes can be a productive method for catching crayfish. Canned cat food based on fish products has often proved to be an effective bait. Most experienced crayfish catchers I know prefer to use bait in the trap that crayfish can sink their teeth into. This most likely will result in a larger catch. The advantage with containerized bait, though, is that it will last longer as the crayfish can’t actually get to it.

MANUFATURED BAIT

Down in Louisiana’s Cajun country, crayfish catching has gone commercial and professional. With an annual production of 30-50 million pounds of long clawed red swamp crawfish, they are harvested on more than 120,000 acres of wetland that also produces large quantities of rice and other grains.

While fish bait is often used in the south, manufactured bait is now increasingly common. Several feed companies, e.g. Purina, now produce formulated baits containing cereal grains and by-products with commercial flavorings. Sized at 1.5 to 3 inches and a 2 inch diameter, they are easy to handle and are sold in 50 lb. bags that don’t require refrigeration

But when the water temperature is below 70 F, manufactured bait is not very productive. During the cold months, fish bait is better, but after lakes warm up, manufactured bait is often even more productive. Trapper Arne has experimented with manufactured bait and found it true that during the warm weather months, manufactured bait works quite well. And it certainly is easier to handle, doesn’t go sour and won’t mess up your hands when baiting traps.

But when using manufactured bait, it is a good idea to use a bait container in the trap. Bait lying on the bottom of the trap is often attacked by the crayfish from the outside of the trap. Keeping bait in a container lures the crayfish inside and makes the bait last longer. The artificial flavorings in manufactured bait, or the oily fish too for that matter, gives off a “smell” that spreads to the whole crayfish community. This is what lures them to find the source of the smell and into the trap they go. We hope.

In the world of hunting, there is nothing more exciting than calling up a big tom turkey within shotgun range. To make it more rewarding, try making your own call and tricking one of the most cautious and leery game animals in North America. Wing-bone calls are the oldest form of calls, developed by Native Americans and possibly dating back 4,000 years.

During this off-season, why not make your own wing-bone call? They are easy to make but take some practice to be able to produce the sounds needed to fool an old tom.

The wing bones of mature male turkeys are the most desirable for wing-bone calls. Bones from different turkeys make different sounds. Bones from mature toms make a deep and raspy sound. Bones from hens make a higher and crispier sound. Bones from jakes make a sound that falls in between the toms and hens. Because calls made from different turkeys make different sounds, a savvy hunter will have one of each in his or her bag of tricks. Another benefit of the wing-bone call is it is louder and the sound travels farther than any other type of call.

To use the wing-bone call, the hunter places the free end of the radius bone in between their lips. Some hunters place the call in the front and center of their lips, while others place the call near the corner of their mouth. The call is not operated by blowing through it, like most turkey calls. Rather, it makes the yelps and clucks of a hen by a sucking motion. The hunter puckers his or her lips and “kisses” to create the suction. This takes practice, but it is easy to learn. Just like anything worth doing, you need to put in the time to master the sounds.

Step 1 The first step is to remove the wings from the turkey at the ball joint where the wing attaches to the body. The wing must be deboned to save the humerus, radius and ulna. These three bones need to be scraped clean of all the meat and cartilage that can be reached with a knife. When finished with step one, you should have three bones separated from each other and somewhat clean.

Step 2 Next, boil these three bones. Adding a few drops of dishwashing liquid will begin the degreasing process. Wait for the water to boil before dropping in the bones. Do not boil longer than 20 minutes because the longer the bones boil, the more brittle they become.

Step 3 Then, remove the bones from the boiling water after any remaining meat or cartilage has gone. Using a hacksaw or a Dremel tool, remove the ends of the two smaller bones, the radius and ulna, where the bones start to flare. On the larger bone, the humerus, sever the smaller end where it starts to flare. On the larger end of the humerus, sever the flared end at the widest point. This gives the call a bell or trumpet to amplify the sounds. Be careful while cutting the ends as not to splinter the bones.

Remove the marrow from all the bones with a pipe cleaner. The bell end of the humerus needs to be cleared of any thin bones to create a single hollow chamber. The last thing in this step is to lightly sand the cut ends to make them smooth.

Step 4 For step four, first bring some fresh water to a boil. Then, add the bones to the boiling water with a liberal amount of dishwashing liquid to degrease. Then, add a splash of hydrogen peroxide to whiten the bones. Only boil for a few minutes so the bones do not become too brittle.

Step 5 This step is the assembly of the call. You will notice that the radius has a round end and a flat end. The flat end is the mouthpiece, and the round end is inserted into the ulna. The free end of the ulna is inserted into the small end of the humerus. Some turkey hunters do not add the humerus, which makes a smaller call. The addition of the humerus allows the turkey sounds to project for a longer distance because of the trumpet or bell on the end. The ends may have to be shaved a little bit to fit inside of each other. Once you have a tight fit of the connected pieces, mix some epoxy to glue the parts together and fill any gaps to create a seal. Let the epoxy set according to the instructions.

Step 6 Step 6 is optional. Some turkey hunters decorate or add their own finishing touches to their new call. Just remember, these calls are for turkey hunting, so stay away from bright colors, shiny finishes or hanging things such as feathers or beads that can give your position away to a sharp-eyed bird. Most turkey hunters who make their own wing-bone calls wrap dark thread around the bones where they connect. If you spray it with a clear coat, make sure that it is not a glossy finish. You want a dull, flat finish.

A look at some of the best offerings to tempt a trout this month and beyond.

Regardless of whether there is a closed season with opening day festivities or year-round angling in your home waters, April fishing is synonymous with trout. Even many hardcore saltwater anglers find themselves walking down a trout stream at one point or another in the 4th month. And while the trout purists are a group all unto themselves, for most of us trout fishing is a simple leisurely activity that provides a way to bridge the gap from winter shack-nasties to spring success. Nonetheless, certain baits have their time and place on both native trout and fresh stockies alike. For the purposes of today’s column, I will skip fly fishing as it simply isn’t my area of expertise—perhaps I’ll visit it next spring.

Spoons

Whether cast, jigged or trolled, spoons such as the Kastmaster, Thomas Buoyant, Little Cleo, Tom’s Taz Lure and others are great options for actively-feeding fish. When the appropriate size lure is chosen, you can just as easily fish them in a deep-woods stream as an expansive lake. When a standard cast-and-retrieve isn’t working, or when hunting fish in deep water, a count-down method can be used. Cast the spoon out and let it sink for a pre-determined amount of time before beginning the retrieve. Make note of the sink time when you begin catching as more fish will often be found there. In deep lakes, don’t be afraid to bounce the spoon off the bottom—you might just end up catching the biggest fish of the day!

Inline Spinnerbaits

Much like the spoon, an inline spinner has long been a hot trout lure. Whether you throw a Mepp’s, Rooster Tail, Blue Fox, Panther Martin or local favorite, this is a great searching lure when fish have spread out from where they were stocked. I like to set one line out with bait of some sort and then prospect the nearby waters with a spinner on a second rod. They are available in a wide range of sizes, and as a bonus there probably isn’t a fish in your lake or stream that won’t strike a spinner so your odds of simply catching are greatly improved.

Jigs

Probably not the first thing thought of by the average trout fisherman, jigs are a deadly option nonetheless. Soft plastics such as Trout Magnets, Gulp or even an old-school curly-tail grub can be mounted on a jig head and cast to schooling fish. Small hair jigs can be extremely effective on heavily-pressured fish as well as holdovers that have become more accustomed to feeding on naturally-occurring baits as opposed to hatchery pellets. One trick for using a jig of any sort in a stream is to swing it below a float and let it ride down current on an open bail.

Hard Baits

While hard baits such as the Yo-Zuri Pins Minnow have been popular with trouters for many years, other options including the Yo-Zuri crystal minnow, Rebel minnow and the Rapala minnow should not be overlooked! Many a big brown trout has fallen for a large hard bait swum in the shallows around dusk, and they also produce in fast-moving streams where they can be held in the current or swung into a seam or deep pool.

Soft Baits

The word “PowerBait” is almost synonymous these days with trout fishing. Whether you use dough, nuggets, worms or eggs, this stuff is like crack to a trout. I’ve had days where I almost didn’t have time to set a second rod at a stocked pond as trout after trout slammed a hook tipped with PowerBait. It’s easy to use, always at the ready and lasts a long time on the hook.

The Real Deal

From egg sacks to garden worms to grass shrimp (where legal) to minnows, it is tough to beat the appeal of a live bait for trout. They can be fished on the bottom, free-floated in a stream or hung below a bobber. I fish some tidal streams that dump into the salt and have the occasional sea-run trout that noses up above the salt line. I fish with grass shrimp that I trap in the days leading up to a trip, and I can even start a bit of a feeding frenzy with a regular handful or two of shrimp tossed out into the current.

So with states across the Northeast stocking hundreds of thousands of fresh brown, brook, rainbow, tiger and even golden trout over the past few weeks, now is the time to dig out that freshwater rod, grab a few lures or baits and head to your local trout stream to dust the winter cobwebs off your casting arm!