GOOD BAIT FOR A GOOD CRAYFISH CATCH

To catch lots of crayfish, you need a good, productive, crayfish trap. But without bait, even the best trap isn’t much good. To catch crayfish, you need bait. That’s a simple and accurate statement. Here comes the difficult question.

WHAT IS THE BEST BAIT?

Ask several persons this question, and you’ll get several answers. Here is my simple answer to this question:

FISH MAKES THE BEST CRAYFISH BAIT

Traditionally crayfish traps in most countries are baited with fish. Swedes use sunfish, shiners and herring while Louisiana Cajuns often entice the crawfish with gizzard shad and pogies (menhaden). A commercial crayfisherman on the West Coast catches his crayfish with salmon heads and other oily fish. Lately, I had good luck using salmon trimmings from the local grocery store. For free!

Yes, fish makes an enticing bait that usually surpasses all other baits. But that doesn’t mean other sources of bait won’t work. For years I bought cheap chicken necks and wings and had very good success with them. One store trimmed their chickens leaving the backs of the birds at a reasonable price. I brought home thousands of crayfish with chicken backs.

But, as I said, each person has his own opinion about bait. A description about crayfish catching from Finland, a country that knows plenty about catching crayfish, included as good bait “a stealthily shot neighbor’s cat”. But it also mentions squirrels, chickens and other assorted animals as well as fish from the lake where the fishing takes place.

Loading the boat with baited traps

But here is a warning. Crayfish bait must be fresh! Contrary to some people’s opinions, crayfish don’t like spoiled, smelly or sour bait, be it fish or meat. I found that out the hard way recently. I had several pieces of turkey necks left over from a successful 1400 catch in the mountains. After four days of keeping the bait unrefrigerated, I froze it after arriving home. Then, some weeks later, I defrosted the old bait and used it in a lake known for its large amount of crayfish. To my great surprise and disappointment, I caught very few crayfish under conditions that usually had been very productive.

Analyzing the conditions that led to the dismal catch, I came to the conclusion that it was the spoiled bait. I recalled that, as I was baiting the traps, the bait felt slimey and obviously was too far gone to be considered fresh. It was just plain foul fowl!

A few weeks later I returned to the same lake. This time I brought fresh bait in the form of fresh salmon trimmings from the local food store. With traps located in the same general area, I now had a good catch. I finally believed my friend and crayfish expert who had told me that crayfish demand fresh bait. It’s simply a myth that they eat rotten food.

Another rule about bait is this:

THE MORE BAIT, THE MORE CRAYFISH!

Again and again I find that the more bait I put in a trap, the more crayfish I catch. What probably happens is that as soon as the crayfish have eaten all the bait, they simply start looking for a way out of the trap. That explains why a Finnish article about crayfish catching stated that up to 75% of the crayfish in an overnight trap eventually escape. Well, wouldn’t YOU start looking for the exit if you either had had your fill or if you found that all the food was gone?

Many crayfish traps have some kind of an escape stopper, some quite efficient, some not. But here is the solution to crayfish escaping a trap. It has been well documented that as long as a trap has good bait in it, crayfish who have already entered the trap, will stay there while new crayfish still will be entering the trap. Once I discovered this secret, I found that my traps were much more likely to be full of crays, whether the trap had an escape stopper or not. So, keep your traps filled with good bait, and you will catch more crayfish. The traditional spiral netted Swedish traps can not be equipped with escape stoppers. Consequently, when I use those traps, I make it a rule to empty them at least every four hours all through the night. That way I get lots of crayfish, but very little sleep…

When you empty traps that have to be checked every three of four hours, be sure to bring some fresh bait. Often the traps are simply empty of bait. And empty traps don’t catch crayfish. This rebaiting can be tricky in the dark, but it pays off.

Some trap manufacturers supply their traps with a little container for bait. The idea is to let the scent of the bait entice the crayfish without letting them actually eat it up. In theory that sounds fine. Recent experience tells me that this sometimes can be a productive method for catching crayfish. Canned cat food based on fish products has often proved to be an effective bait. Most experienced crayfish catchers I know prefer to use bait in the trap that crayfish can sink their teeth into. This most likely will result in a larger catch. The advantage with containerized bait, though, is that it will last longer as the crayfish can’t actually get to it.

MANUFATURED BAIT

Down in Louisiana’s Cajun country, crayfish catching has gone commercial and professional. With an annual production of 30-50 million pounds of long clawed red swamp crawfish, they are harvested on more than 120,000 acres of wetland that also produces large quantities of rice and other grains.

While fish bait is often used in the south, manufactured bait is now increasingly common. Several feed companies, e.g. Purina, now produce formulated baits containing cereal grains and by-products with commercial flavorings. Sized at 1.5 to 3 inches and a 2 inch diameter, they are easy to handle and are sold in 50 lb. bags that don’t require refrigeration

But when the water temperature is below 70 F, manufactured bait is not very productive. During the cold months, fish bait is better, but after lakes warm up, manufactured bait is often even more productive. Trapper Arne has experimented with manufactured bait and found it true that during the warm weather months, manufactured bait works quite well. And it certainly is easier to handle, doesn’t go sour and won’t mess up your hands when baiting traps.

But when using manufactured bait, it is a good idea to use a bait container in the trap. Bait lying on the bottom of the trap is often attacked by the crayfish from the outside of the trap. Keeping bait in a container lures the crayfish inside and makes the bait last longer. The artificial flavorings in manufactured bait, or the oily fish too for that matter, gives off a “smell” that spreads to the whole crayfish community. This is what lures them to find the source of the smell and into the trap they go. We hope.

What is backlash & why do baitcasters suffer from it?

Backlash happens when the lure slows down after casting, but the spool does not—resulting in a tangled mess of line, also known as a “bird’s nest.”

It usually happens when you don’t have the spool and brake system set properly, it can happen if you aren’t using the right rod, and it can happen if you are not using the right line and lures.

The bottom line is that backlash with baitcasting rods is a mess that you absolutely want to avoid.

How to prevent backlash on your casting reel?

Backlash is what usually discourages people from using a baitcasting reel. However, there are many advantages to using a baitcaster rather than a spinning reel—such as allowing for more precision and control, giving you a more accurate cast. Then we will tell you a few ways to help prevent, or lessen backlash.

1. Choose the right (not expensive) equipment

When just starting, you want to choose the right fishing line to make it easier to untangle a bird’s nest.

Monofilament line causes the least backlash and is the easiest fishing line to untangle than a braided line or fluorocarbon line.

A heavy lure works better for baitcasting when you’re just beginning. The heavier lure will keep constant pressure on the line. When you go lighter you have to really pay attention to your arm/wrist position and how you are moving the rod. Normally, you snap the wrist with a Spinning Rod get the maximum distance but if you do that with a baitcaster rigged light, you will backlash every time. A baitcasting reel is more of a whole arm type of cast. If you could see in slow motion what happens when you snap your wrist with a bait caster, you would see a hump in your line heading out towards your lure and then traveling back to your reel. When it gets back (very quickly by the way) you get your backlash.

2. Adjust spool tension & the brake system & do a test cast

In the beginning, you need to ensure that your spool tension is set just right. You want your lure to fall at neither too high nor low of speed—but at a medium pace. There is no correct setting, so use trial and error to see where you feel most comfortable.

Just as important, you want to set the brake system to the highest setting. This gives you more control and allows less movement while you practice. When you become more comfortable, you can begin to lower the tension to allow longer baits.

3. Do not cast your lure against the wind

Casting against the wind will slow down your lure, but not your reel, resulting in backlash. As you become more comfortable with your reel and gain experience, you can begin casting into the wind.

If it’s possible, try practice casting in your backyard so you can have some control of your surroundings.

Once you’ve gotten the feel for your baitcaster, test it out on the water. You can experiment with different braking and tension settings to see which is most comfortable. When you feel that you are getting the hang of it, you can try investing in a more advanced bait caster. The most important: practice more, then you will handle it like a pro!

If you’re looking for a quality flashlight but are unsure where to start, it’s likely that an EDC flashlight is exactly what you need.

Long-lasting, powerful and compact in size, EDC flashlights are perfect for shedding light on everyday scenarios, including life-saving emergency situations.

Reliable light is of high value in unforeseen circumstances and an EDC flashlight is the best way to stay prepared.

Quick Takeaways

– EDC, or everyday carry, flashlights are ideal for feeling prepared for the various types of situations you may encounter, including personal safety and emergency standby- Compact, EDC units typically offer between 20-2000 lumens of light, sufficient for both casual daily activities and law enforcement needs- The best high quality EDC flashlights are equipped with a long battery life, impact resistant materials and an Ingress Protection rating of IP66 or higher

EDC flashlights are the perfect source of convenient, accessible light when encountering unexpected situations and are easily obtainable with a well-known name brand like Fenix.

What Is An EDC Flashlight?

EDC is an acronym for “everyday carry”, meaning that EDC flashlights refer to units that can be easily carried for everyday use, typically small enough to store in your pocket.

Although there is some overlap, EDC flashlights are defined by one’s lifestyle, as opposed to other units designed specifically for activities and destinations, such as camping or biking lights.

Everyday carry units are intended to help with anything you find useful. Whether it’s personal safety, emergency situations or shining extra light in a dimly lit closet, EDC units are ideal for feeling prepared for the various types of situations you may encounter.

What To Expect

There are many benefits to EDC flashlights since they are specifically designed to be convenient without sacrificing power. Here’s 5 qualities to look for when you’re on the hunt for a quality EDC flashlight.

Compact

One of the important characteristics of an EDC flashlight is its compact size, allowing for easy portability and accessibility. When shopping for a new unit, look for something that’s small enough to fit into your pocket or purse and the palm of your hand for quick use.

The weight of your flashlight is also important to consider. A heavy unit will feel like a burden to carry and defeat the purpose of having an EDC flashlight. At Fenix, finding a small, lightweight unit without sacrificing functionality and efficiency is easy.

Brightness

The best EDC flashlights use LED bulbs because they are brighter and more efficient than incandescent bulbs. Their light output, or brightness, is measured in lumens and can have anywhere from 20 to 2000 lumens, or more.

When determining the right amount of lumens for your EDC flashlight, consider how you plan to use your unit. If you only need accessible light for reading in the dark, 300-500 lumens is more than enough.

Long Battery Life

Although compact in size, quality EDC flashlights have impressively long run times due to their compatibility with rechargeable batteries.

EDC units that run on lithium or lithium-ion rechargeable batteries will not only appear brighter than those running on alkaline batteries, but also last longer due to a higher capacity for stored power.

In addition, different brightness settings and external battery level indicators found on EDC flashlights make it easy to preserve power for when you need it most.

High IP Rating

An IP rating, or Ingress Protection Rating, is a pair of numbers that represents the level of protection an object has against foreign bodies and moisture, such as dust and water.

To fully understand the different levels of protection an EDC flashlight can have, assess the chart below:

Image Source: www.budind.com

An EDC flashlight with the highest level of protection will have an Ingress Protection rating of IP68, demonstrating quality and likelihood to survive a rainy day or dust storm. A rating of IP66 or higher is ideal for units intended for everyday use.

Impact Resistance

Units intended for frequent use need to be tough in the face of the unknown. High-quality EDC flashlights are made from impact resistant materials, such as:

– High strength aluminum- Toughened glass- Stainless steel

Daily use of your EDC flashlight can take a toll on inexpensive, poorly made devices, ultimately making them unreliable. When you’re shopping for an EDC unit, avoid gear made from easily breakable plastic and low-quality lens material.

Best EDC Flashlights

EDC flashlights are specifically designed to fit every carrying need. Whether you’re looking for a super bright unit or one that clips onto your pocket, Fenix offers one of the best options.

Lightweight

Fenix E03R Keychain Flashlight

Weighing in at only 0.78 oz (22 grams), the Fenix E03R keychain flashlight shines when it comes to ultra-lightweight units. This compact flashlight is less than 2 inches in size and equipped with 260 lumens of bright light.

Latch this undetectable EDC flashlight onto your keychain to benefit from 5 different light settings and a high Ingress Protection rating of IP66.

Clip On

Fenix E28R Rechargeable 18650 EDC Flashlight

Although almost every Fenix flashlight features a convenient body clip, the E28R’s high output, durability and size make this unit one of the best.

This powerful EDC flashlight offers 1500 lumens of light and 5 different brightness settings in a size small enough to fit in the palm of your hand. With a protection rating of IP68, the E28R has everything you need in an EDC flashlight.

Brightness

Fenix E35 V3.0 EDC Flashlight

Fenix’s E35 V3.0 EDC flashlight gives portable and powerful a whole new definition. This unit offers up to 3000 lumens of light with a beam distance of 787 feet with less than 5 inches of length. That’s enough light to conduct Search & Rescue!

When all you need is to illuminate the pages of your latest read, dim this EDC unit down to the lowest of 5 light settings, offering just 50 lumens of light. With its durable aluminum body and 100% resistance to water and dust, no other EDC unit compares to the offerings of Fenix’s E35 V3.0.

Compact

Fenix E30R Rechargeable EDC Flashlight

Rechargeable, long-lasting and fully waterproof, Fenix’s E30R provides big power in a small package. Less than 4 inches in size and weighing under 2oz, this EDC unit goes undetected in your pocket or purse.

Use one of 5 brightness settings to benefit from anywhere between 30-1600 lumens of light and know exactly when it is time to recharge with the 4-level battery indicator.

Self Defense

Fenix UC35 V2.0 LED Rechargeable Flashlight

One of the most comforting features of carrying a quality EDC flashlight is accessibility to a reliable means of self-defense. Fenix’s UC35 V2.0 is not only pocket-sized and far-reaching, but also features a self-defense strobe light setting and an extreme impact resistant body.

This anti-roll and anti-slip design makes reaching for and handling this unit effortless and comfortable. Rechargeable and long-lasting, the UC35 is the perfect unit for military, policing and emergency standby.

Fenix Flashlights For Every Need

EDC flashlights quickly prove their usefulness once you start to carry one. With so many durable and dedicated options, finding the best EDC flashlight is easy with Fenix.

Find the best EDC flashlight for your needs and benefit from long-lasting, compact power by visiting Fenix Store today!

Tracy Schmidt | Originally published in GameKeepers: Farming for Wildlife Magazine. To subscribe, click here.

Health foods are all the rage these days, and none comes healthier than the pure-protein provided by white-tailed deer venison. Venison is low in fat, high in nutrients and packed with a whopping 44 grams of protein in one man-sized serving (six ounces). That’s more than half the daily recommended amount of protein for a healthy person.

Although pure, clean venison is the poster food for good health, it does come with some precautions. As with any meat, special care must be taken after your deer is down; during the butchering process; and, of course, in the kitchen. I’ll share my family’s best practices here.

A Few Words on CWD

No discussion on venison can occur in these modern times without first addressing the “Boone-and-Crockett class elephant” in the room: chronic wasting disease. CWD became a hot-button topic among Eastern deer hunters 14 years ago when the disease was discovered in free-ranging deer east of the Mississippi for the first time. It had been previously considered a Western deer disease (and elk and moose) confined to states like Wyoming and Colorado (where it was first identified in 1967).

The disease (transmissible spongiform encephalopathy – TSE) centers on abnormal brain proteins in deer which, when infected, always kill the animal. Human concern heightened when some scientists characterized the disease in the same category as Bovine spongiform encephalopathy (BSE) in cattle (Mad Cow disease) and Creutzfeldt-Jakob disease (CJD) in humans.

Although BSE has been linked to increases in CJD, there are no known links between CWD and any increased cases of TSEs in humans. In fact, several scientific studies have concluded that there is most likely a species barrier between CWD in deer and TSEs in humans.

Should we worry about CWD in our venison? If you hunt in an area with known CWD infection rates, common sense only dictates that you would want to have your deer tested, which is fairly simple and cost effective. More importantly, you should follow some basic handling precautions after your deer is down:

1. Field-Dressing Know-How

There are two important parts of the field dressing process: keeping the deer from becoming contaminated from its own waste and keeping external contaminants from entering the body cavity of the deer while you are working with it. Make sure to use a sharp, clean blade and to wear elbow length gloves when field dressing your deer.

Just behind the breast bone, make an opening through the skin and muscles of the upper abdomen. Insert two fingers of your gloved hand into the body cavity and keep the knife up and slice the skin apart down to and around the anus, making sure not to puncture the stomach and intestines.

Contamination from contact with digestive tract contents not only will taste bad, but it can be contaminated with bacteria which can cause food-borne illness at the point of consumption if the meat is not properly handled or prepared. Remove the genitals of a male deer and discard them. Cut around the anus and tie it off then draw the intestine back through the canal between the rounds, into the body cavity and out and remove through the body cavity. Be mindful about keeping your knife clean while you work. Keep all removed internal organs from introducing contamination to the meat. Try to avoid contact with the brain, spinal cord, spleen and lymph nodes while field dressing your deer. Make sure you remove all the internal organs.

Roll the deer over to drain any excess blood before you drag it, but be careful what you roll it over onto. If you are removing the head, use a separate knife for that than you used for working with meat areas. This will help you avoid cross-contamination. Another thing to avoid is getting dirt and debris from the ground into your deer and a personal dislike of mine, hair.

When you are done working, clean your knives and equipment with a 50/50 solution of chlorine bleach and water. Soak your knife for an hour to make sure it is sterile.

2. Cool Your Deer

Hang your deer and prop open the body cavity with a stick. My husband and I believe that using a head-down position is better because it allows heat to rise from the chest cavity more quickly. Some old-timers have chastised us for doing so, claiming that blood will pool up in the upper thorax. We ignore such criticism because the majority of the prime venison comes from the hind quarters. The few scrap-pounds of venison that could potentially be spoiled in the neck/shoulder area is a risk were willing to take if given the choice, but you know what? We’ve never lost an ounce of meat by hanging our deer from the hind legs.

During the early archery season, we also pack our deer with bags of ice to help cool it down. To hang a deer head down, simply insert a stout stick or meat-hanging gambrel between the hock and the tendons. Make sure to skin the hock before you hang the deer if you are going to do so yourself. It is very easy to accidentally cut the tendon when making the first cuts around the hock. Doing so would cause the deer to fall down.

A shady spot where temperatures stay at or below forty to fifty degrees is best for storing for two to three days. If it is cooler than your refrigerator, your deer may hang for a bit longer. Hanging the deer in a walk-in cooler is ideal, but you may quarter the deer and put it into a chest freezer.

Thawing and refreezing fresh meat once will not affect meat quality. If you are taking your meat to a professional processor you are ready to load your deer and go. Just make sure not to tie the deer to your vehicle’s hood since the engine heat will hasten spoilage. Some will pull the carcass in a trailer or in a pick-up bed without covering the meat. This just serves to introduce road-grit to your meat.

3. Choose the Right Processor

When we don’t have time to cut up our own deer we take them to a professional butcher. We are lucky to have a local grocery store that processes deer. We know that the deer are kept in a walk-in cooler and that we will be getting our own deer back to eat. We like that it is processed in a commercial kitchen with its clean equipment and health inspections.

It is important to get your own deer back when you try to be so careful while field dressing. Not everyone is as careful, so if you don’t know that you’re getting your own venison back you are taking some big chances. Make sure to ask about that before you drop off your deer.

We are also very selective of when we take our deer to the processor. We usually drive the deer to the processor during non-peak hours like weekday mornings. This allows us to personally drag the deer into the cooler and talk one-on-one with the butcher. It’s just like anything else: If you get to know the person, they’re more likely to look out for you the next time you show up.

When you don’t have time to do your own butchering, look for a professional setup. You want a butcher who will make sure you get your own venison back.

When you go to a butcher shop, look for cleanliness in the work area. Tables should be stainless and the floor should be clean. Look for working sinks and clean equipment. Talk to the people who work in the butchering area if you are able to have access to them to find out how long they have been processing deer. Don’t be afraid to walk away. After all, this is the food you’ll be serving to your family. If you’re going to pay to have your deer butchered, it only makes sense to find the very best butcher in your local area.

4. Skinning Techniques

During clear, cold weather, you can let your deer hang for several days on the meat pole or from a tree limb. Just be sure to hang it high and keep the chest cavity protected from the elements (and critters). During warmer weather, you’ll want to get the skin off as quickly as possible to assist with the meat-cooling process. Deer can be skinned while hanging head up or head down. There are plenty of quality videos online that show proper techniques. We prefer the head-down (back feet first) method because it allows for the hide to come off cleaner and more quickly.

With a razor-sharp skinning knife, start by cutting circles through the hair and hide just below the dew claws on the back legs. Next, make incisions along the inside of each back leg, running them through the hide along the leg bone all the way to the deer’s anus. Peel back the hide on each legs and pull the hide down (almost like removing a stocking) until both sides are skinned all the way down to the deer’s rump.

From there, work the knife around the tail to free up the hide from the hind quarters. This will now allow you to pull the hide down the deer’s stomach and thoracic cavities in one motion (when the deer is still warm). It’s almost as easy as pulling off a sweatshirt if you’re working on a freshly killed deer. If the deer is cold and stiff, you’ll need to use your knife a bit to help loosen the tallow from the hide.

Keep working your knife and pulling the hide until you get all the way past the front shoulders and past the deer’s neck. Don’t stop short. Pull the hide all the way to the head if you can. A lot of people make the mistake of stopping short once they get past the front shoulders. Don’t do that, because there’s plenty of good grinding venison in the deer’s neck.

5: Butchering Tips

I admittedly was intimidated when I helped my husband butcher a deer for the first time. It’s certainly something I wasn’t exposed to while growing up in Natick, Massachusetts. But after those first few deer, I soon learned to enthusiastically embrace the job because this is where we ensure our final food product. The quality of the meat is totally dependent upon what we do during the butchering process.

Making meat from a carcass is really quite simple. Just break it down into working-sized pieces and then take your time processing it from there. For example, we start by reducing the deer to seven main pieces: two hindquarters, two back-straps, two shoulders and the neck. True, there can be meat in the ribs but this section of the deer is best utilized when you a) are working on a large buck, and b) the deer was in pristine shape when you field-dressed it. Translation: Don’t mess around with the ribs if there’s any chance stomach contents leaked out during the field-dressing process. It’s just not worth the health risks of possible cross-contamination.

The back-straps are easy to remove. Just fillet them off the backbone of the deer as you would fillet a fish. Use the knife to feel your way around the spine. Once you have worked the knife halfway down the back-strap, you can oftentimes pull it the rest of the way. You’ll get two forearm-sized “logs” of meat from the back-strap of an adult deer.

For the hindquarters, you needn’t use anything but a stout, sharp knife. No bone- saws are necessary. Just use your knife to separate the muscle groups. It’s easy if you take your time. You’ll end up with three nice muscle groups plus a few handfuls of shank meat. Use that for stew or stir fry. The bigger chunks can be divided into roasts or sliced (always against the grain) into steaks.

Front shoulder and neck meat is almost always used for venison stew, chili and grinding meat in our home. When given the time, I’ll tie a shoulder roast or two for the freezer. These are ideal for weekend dinners in late winter. (Shoulder roasts need to be slow-cooked on low heat.)

Conclusion

Field-dressing, skinning and butchering a deer for the first time is about as intimidating as changing your car’s oil for the first time. However, once you get over those irrational fears, you’ll wonder why it took you so long to roll up your sleeves, because there’s nothing more satisfying than providing your family with an entire dinner plate of food you’ve grown, hunted and prepared all by yourself. Venison provides that satisfaction…in spades.

Mark Kayser

Shed Hunting Tips the Western Way

Hunting for whitetail shed antlers dominates the antler scene, but like dreaming about a western elk hunt, shed antler fanatics consider hunting for elk and mule deer shed antlers a bucket-list adventure. Hunting for elk and mule deer sheds is a surefire way to enjoy western scenery in a personal manner, and possibly pick up more bone than you ever imagined. Even so, elk and mule deer country can be harsh and testing so plan accordingly. Start your planning by scheduling for the right time of year.

When Do Elk and Mule Deer Drop Their Antlers?

Like whitetail deer, elk and mule deer shed their antlers via a combination of factors. Genetics drives antler shedding to a specific date, but a male’s use of testosterone also factors into the equation. The more testosterone a male uses during the rut, the more likely it is to drop earlier. Stress, particularly from winter and predation, influences animals to drop their antlers earlier than normal, especially under severe conditions.

The two species shed their antlers in a different time frame. Mule deer shed their antlers from January into March. Elk, on the other hand, begin shedding their antlers in March through April, although it can occur as early as mid-February.

It’s really up to Mother Nature when the antler drop occurs, but if you’re lucky occasionally both antlers drop near one another, deer and elk. With large bull elk the phenomena seems more commonplace. It’s possibly due to the heavier weight of an elk antler and the lopsided feeling that comes from carrying just one antler. If you do find a single, large elk or mule deer antler, spend a few extra minutes gridding the area. The other side is likely close.

Shortcuts for Western Shed Hunters

Despite a shedding time frame that doesn’t overlap, you can still slate a trip later in spring and look for antlers from both species. Depending on the area you target, oftentimes you’ll find mule deer antlers one level below where you’ll find elk antlers. It’s possible they’ll winter up to 1,000 feet lower in elevation depending on the winter range.

Don’t let the elevation factor scare you away. Although elk and mule deer definitely look for elevated hideouts when seeking winter refuge, they also gravitate toward large mesas, and sagebrush basins. Research regions characterized by minimal snow and feeding areas for the animals. State game and fish agencies even manage these areas realizing that the ungulates visit them annually. Many of these areas have been allotted refuge status with no human access until spring arrives. Most have a posted opening date that attracts local and visiting shed hunters alike. It’s the chance at a grand Easter egg hunt in antler style when the opening date arrives. State game managers are also helpful in pointing out other winter preferences for elk and mule deer if you wish to avoid a Boston Marathon shed antler hunt.

The best advice for any Western shed antler hunter is to spend wisely on good optics. It’s amazing how many antlers you can discover simply by looking down slopes or across canyons. Focus on white objects and partial tips protruding from brush or grass. My favorite optic to carry is the Nikon Monarch HG10x42 with enough power to pick apart the landscape when looking for antlers.

Next, make sure you’re in shape. My average day is a 12-mile round trip hike. Half is straight up and most is side-slope navigation. Sturdy, leather hiking boots and a hiking staff is a must. I trust my Cabela’s Meindl Perfekt boots to get me in and out. You also need to outfit yourself with a durable and comfortable pack. It needs enough room for water, lunch, rain gear, survival gear and first aid. It should also have ample areas to lash antlers.

To speed up your antler discoveries begin by following big game trails. Both elk and deer use trails to navigate to winter forage. Although either species has no aversion to pioneering a new route, the path of least resistance does have appeal and trails are carved into mountain sides from eons of use.

These trails undoubtedly lead to open areas for feed, but don’t overlook where the trail disappears into timber. Elk and mule deer spend more time on south-facing slopes, but they have to traverse north-facing slopes to get to any new, windswept, south-facing food stash. North-facing slopes vary from dark timber to juniper-jammed terrain. In most northern latitudes, north-facing slopes are always defined by deep snow. Again, follow the path of least resistance and look for any antlers dropped along the route.

As you negotiate winter range, you’ll obviously encounter geographic features such as steep canyons and gorges. Avoid them if the ascent looks dangerous, but steep topography and ravines cause jarring and jolting, both of which can make an animal drop an antler in an abyss. Lace up, slide down and cover more ground for a look if you deem it safe.

Lastly, you may need to put your binoculars aside and snoop like on whitetail properties for shed antlers thick vegetation. Sagebrush, mountain mahogany, scrub oak, thick junipers and even stands of cholla cactus could hide elk and mule deer antlers. They create micro environments to shield from winter winds, plus supply food sources.

Sell Your Shed Antlers

Finding antlers can pay off. Antler prices have risen in recent years. The antler market fluctuates like the Dow Jones Industrials, but artisans, dog-chew companies, collectors and others purchase antlers on a regular basis. Deer antler prices have been fluctuating between $8 and $12 per pound in recent years. Elk antlers could fetch you anywhere from $12 to $15 per pound. That’s appealing since a big elk antler may weigh nine pounds netting you more than $120 for just one antler.

Even with the possibility of a paycheck at the end of a shed antler hunt, the reward for a western adventure far outweighs cash. Picking up a shiny, six-point elk antler while you overlook a scene from the opening of a John Wayne movie is the true reward.

Unleash the Power: Discover the Most Powerful Air Rifle for Unmatched Precision and Performance. Experience unrivaled shooting capabilities with our cutting-edge air rifle, engineered to deliver exceptional power, accuracy, and range. Elevate your shooting experience to new heights with the ultimate choice of enthusiasts and professionals alike.

The most powerful air rifle

The AEA Zeus in.72 caliber is currently the most powerful air rifle available. With a power output of up to 1500 ft-lbs, this traditionally styled big-bore air rifle is designed for hunting large game. The solid wood and metal construction of the Zeus helps to dampen recoil, making it a reliable and accurate option for taking down massive quarry like boar or deer.

Another contender for the title of most powerful air rifle is the Umarex Hammer. This.50 caliber rifle utilizes proprietary technology to generate over 700 ft-lbs of energy at the muzzle. With its lightweight cocking action and two-shot shuttle magazine, the Hammer offers fast follow-up shots when needed, making it an effective tool for hunting hogs or other large game.

The FX Impact air rifle is a versatile option that performs well for both small-game and predator hunting. Its bullpup design features a rugged and lightweight frame with an adjustable stock. The modular design allows shooters to easily swap out barrels, magazines, and probes, optimizing the gun for different types of hunting scenarios.

Hatsan Airguns offers the Piledriver in multiple caliber options, including their newest addition in.62 caliber. Generating over 750 ft-lbs of energy with a 650-grain hollow point slug, this bullpup configuration delivers power and accuracy in a more compact package.

The AirForce Texan series has also earned its place among the most powerful air rifles. Available in several calibers including.257,.308,.357,.457, and.50, these rifles offer adjustable customization options and reliable performance for taking down North American big game.

Airguns of Arizona’s Bushbuck bolt action sporter style rifle is another worthy contender. With its laminate stock and adjustable cheekpiece, this.452 caliber rifle is solidly built and offers a sleek design. The Bushbuck generates over 600 ft-lbs of energy and is a capable choice for non-dangerous game hunting.

In conclusion, the most powerful air rifle offers a combination of accuracy and high velocity, making it ideal for various applications such as hunting and target shooting. With advanced technology and robust construction, these rifles provide enhanced performance while ensuring safety measures are in place. Whether you’re a seasoned shooter or a beginner, choosing the right air rifle will ultimately depend on your specific needs and preferences.

Sometimes, you simply can’t fit all of your EDC kit into your pockets. Sure, you’ve probably got enough room for your knife, keys, flashlight, phone, and wallet, but once you start adding on a laptop, first aid kit, and rain jacket, having an EDC backpack can really help you maximize your effectiveness while out and about.

But what sets an EDC backpack apart from just your everyday run of the mill Jansport? What features should you key in on when looking for an EDC backpack?

Not to worry! We’re going to do a deep dive that’ll answer both of those questions and more! Here is not only a comprehensive buying guide for EDC backpacks, but a list of the 7 best EDC backpacks on the market in 2024.

Simply put, an everyday carry backpack is an extension for your EDC loadout so that you can carry more gear efficiently. They’re incredibly durable to stand up to the grind of being used day in and day out.

The biggest key word about EDC backpacks is that they help you be more efficient. That means that EDC backpacks are also not cumbersome. A good EDC pack isn’t the same thing as a large 60L pack that you’d through your camping gear into for a couple nights in the wilderness. It’s small enough that it won’t inhibit your mobility as you wear it through-out your day while it securely carries the rest of your EDC load out.

Now that we’ve properly defined what an EDC backpack is, let’s talk a bit about the features you want to be on the lookout for when you decide to start shopping for an EDC backpack. As we mentioned earlier, not all backpacks are created equal!

– Durability –

An EDC backpack must be able to stand up to the rigor of being used day in and day out. Keep an eye out for the material that the pack’s exterior as well as interior is made from. The toughest packs used nylon that is rated between 840D and 1680D ripstop nylon. Keep in mind that the higher the nylon rating, the bulkier and heavier the pack will be.

– Size –

Your EDC pack should be small enough that it’s easy to carry in a multitude of areas, but big enough to fit all of your EDC kit. Sizes are usually measured in liters. A good size for an EDC pack should be somewhere between 14 liters and 26 liters. Any smaller than 14 liters will limit the effectiveness of your pack and anything bigger than 26 liters will make it cumbersome to carry the pack everywhere you need to go.

– Storage –

Interior organization is an important factor to consider. While you can randomly stuff your EDC kit into the main body of the pack, it’ll make finding your gear a nightmare as you’ll likely need to unpack everything to find the piece of gear you need. Individual zippered pockets help to maximize your storage inside of the pack to make finding your gear a breeze, so be on the lookout for interior zippered pockets.

– Warranty –

As we’ve said time and time again, warranty is one of the best ways to tell how confident a company is in their product. While most companies offer some sort of limited warranty, they usually can’t hold a candle next to lifetime warranties. Companies that offer unlimited lifetime warranties typically design some of the most dependable and durable backpacks on the market, so be sure to double check the warranty of offered with the pack you’re interested in purchasing before buying.

1) Vanquest – ADDAX 18 Backpack

The Vanquest ADDAX 18 stands apart from most EDC backpacks in one surprising area: its high-vis interior. Blaze orange nylon fabric lines the inside of the backpack to make finding your gear in practically any light a non-factor.

The interior of the pack is divided up into 15 different pockets and slots, making it easier than ever to immaculately organize each piece of your EDC kit. With 18 liters of storage space inside of its water repellant exterior, you can rest assured that your gear is well protected.

One area to keep in mind when considering the Vanquest ADDAX 18 is that it has a limited lifetime warranty. While it does come with a 100-day money back guarantee, Vanquest limits warranty claims to defects with the manufacturing only. Everyday wear and tear isn’t covered by the warranty, so if you end up needing to get your pack repaired, you will likely incur some fees to have Vanquest repair it for you.

2) GoRuck – GR1

For a bigger pack with a beefier warranty, definitely checkout the GoRuck GR1. Coming in two sizes, 21 liters and 26 liters, the GR1 is capable of holding all of your essentials inside of its tough interior. The reinforced padding in the shoulder straps makes carrying practically any load feel like nothing at all, so load it down as much as you like! The extra padding in the shoulder straps is also assisted by a removeable hard plastic frame so that the pack remains rigid to improve stability as you carry it.

The warranty that protects the GR1 is incredibly generous. Covered by the GoRuck Scars Lifetime Warranty, you can send it back to GoRuck for repair for practically any reason. And if GoRuck can’t fix it, they’ll replace your pack free of charge.

The one area that the GR1 lacks in is its interior storage organization. While there are 3 different slots to store your gear in, there aren’t interior pockets to niche down your organization.

3) AER – City Pack

If you’re in need of a smaller pack, don’t sleep on the AER City Pack. The 14 liter interior is lined with interior zippered pockets to make organization incredibly easy. And while the shoulder straps aren’t as beefy as the GR1, the contoured back panel of the pack curves to the shape of your back for comfortable all-day carry.

Something that makes the City Pack unique is that it is designed with a specific “smart tracker” pocket. This allows you to insert a small tracker like AirTags, Tile Trackers, or even the Chipolo Tracker. Having a GPS tracker on board will ensure that your backpack is within arm’s reach, no matter what.

But like the Vanquest ADDAX 18, the City pack is only covered with a limited lifetime warranty. While it does cover manufacturing defects, normal wear and tear isn’t covered and can only be used with proof of purchase (aka, you have to hang onto your original receipt).

4) Vertx- Gamut 2.0 Backpack

For those who intend to carry a firearm with them in their EDC kit, the Vertx Gamut 2.0 is the ideal pack for you. Not only does the pack have a concealed area to holster a handgun and an extra magazine, but the top of the pack also comes with a quick draw retention loop that allows you to quickly access your EDC firearm at a moment’s notice. When not used for carrying a EDC firearm, the back panel can easily be used to carry a 16” laptop comfortably.

The 180° front pocket is a great design feature as it makes loading the front slot of the pack a breeze. And when you open it up to access your gear, you’ll find plenty of organizational slots to quickly find the exact piece of gear you need.

One area that the Gamut 2.0 lacks in is its exterior water bottle pocket size. It’s fairly small and only able to accommodate a 16 oz. water bottle. So if you’re looking to carry a larger water bottle like a Nalgene or a Hydroflask, you’ll likely need to store your bottle inside the pack.

5) Peak Design- Everyday Pack

If you’re into digital media creation or just want to ensure that each piece of your EDC kit has a slot to rest in, look no further than the Peak Design Everyday Pack. The Everyday Pack is a highly organized machine as the top flap of the pack opens up to reveal several small dividers that meticulously organize the 20 liters of interior storage space.

Carrying the Everyday pack is incredibly comfortable. With vented quick dry mesh lining the back panel and shoulder straps that pivot to match the contour of your back, you can carry the Everyday pack every day and all day without issue.

Another unique feature of the Everyday Pack is that it comes with stowable exterior straps on the exterior of the main body of the pack so you can cinch down a myriad of other items that won’t fit inside of the pack. Whether it’s a rain jacket, blanket, or anything else that’s too big to fit inside the interior of the pack, the Everyday Pack has a way to help you carry your gear where you need it to go.

6) Mystery Ranch- Rip Ruck 15

Mystery Ranch is a well-known brand in the hunting community. They’ve consistently built packs that are capable of packing in all of your hunting gear for a backcountry excursion and capable of packing out your camp plus practically all the meat you can carry from a successful hunt. The bottom line here is that Mystery Ranch knows how to make long lasting packs that are comfortable enough to carry the heaviest of loads.

Their experience in designing packs that make heavy loads feel like nothing at all makes them immensely qualified to offer the Rip Ruck 15 as their go to EDC backpack. With a top open compartment to access the main body of the pack, they’ve made it easier than ever to access each piece of gear inside of your EDC kit. The lid also comes outfitted with a couple of rows of MOLLE to make it easy to add additional storage options to the pack so you can customize it to your liking.

7) Alpaka- Elements Backpack

One of the most secure packs on our list is the Alpaka Elements Backpack. The anti-theft lockable zippers allow you to pass a small lock through the eyes of the zippers to ensure that all of your gear stays safe from anyone who’d want to rifle through your pack while you aren’t watching. The interior of the pack is loaded with organizational pockets to help you find a place for each piece of your EDC kit.

The most unique feature of the Elements Backpack is the row of nylon loops that allow you to place Alpaka’s quick detach clips for any small and frequently used pieces of gear that you carry. Simply attach the QD ring to the exterior of the piece of gear you want to be able to pull from your pack and clip it to the QD clip. Feed the gear into the QD clip and your gear is held in place securely until you need to grab it!

Alrighty, we’ve gone over a lot, so let’s recap. EDC backpacks are made from some of the most durable materials on the market to stand up to the wear and tear of everyday use. They’re perfectly suited to carry your essentials that help you get through each day, but not too big that carrying it would be cumbersome. Their storage organization is second to none, making finding each and every piece of your EDC kit a non-factor, even in low light scenarios. And they’re backed by a warranty that will repair or replace your pack at no cost to you!

All of these factors lend towards these packs costing a pretty penny. So if you’re looking to upgrade other parts of your EDC kit, be sure to be on the lookout for special discounts and bundles to help you stretch your dollar further. In fact, if you sign up for the Axwell Army Newsletter by clicking here, you’ll be sent a special discount on your first Axwell Wallet purchase!

Hi there! Welcome to my review of the best saltwater fishing rods.

Saltwater fishing calls for only the best rods. You’ll find all sorts of fish, from the tiniest panfish near shore to the largest monster fish far out in the waters. This means your fishing rod has to be sensitive enough for those minuscule fish, as well as strong enough for the prize fish you’ll meet. Since saltwater is more corrosive than freshwater, a saltwater spinning rod has to be corrosion-resistant too. It’s also crucial that the fishing rod is affordable because a perfect fishing rod is pointless if you can’t have it.

The best fishing rod at satisfying all these criteria is the St Croix Legend Tournament Inshore. This corrosion-resistant fishing rod has the backbone to take on the monster fish and the sensitivity to detect timid bites. It may cost lot of pennies, but it’s worth every penny.

Everyone has different preferences though. Some of you may be looking for budget rods and others might be looking for surf fishing rods.

I’ve included them all, so jump right in!

The 6 Best Saltwater Fishing Rods

Before we get started, we wanted to let you choose for yourself whether to get a spinning or baitcasting rod, where possible. As such, by default, the links are to the spinning options, but we’ve also included links to the baitcasting rods of the same model where applicable.

With that out of the way, let’s begin.

Best Overall

1. St Croix Legend Tournament Inshore

• Blank Material: Carbon Fiber
• Guides: Aluminum Oxide
• Handle Material: Cork
• Power: Ranges from Light to Heavy

I’ll start the ball rolling with a saltwater rod that’s handcrafted in the USA. Designed to be unmatched in strength and durability and to have incredible sensitivity and lightness, this is the best saltwater fishing rod that money can get.

St Croix is famous among anglers for making the best premium rods. They’re always researching and developing new technologies for their rods. To date, their R&D has yielded 3 groundbreaking technologies.

The first two technologies are the Fortified Resin System (FRS) and the Advanced Reinforcing Technology (ART). Rods built with FRS are 33% stronger than rods built with the usual methods. ART is an exceptional carbon fiber that makes a rod 10 times stronger with no increase in diameter or weight. These state-of-the-art technologies combine to produce a saltwater rod that’s stronger and more durable than any other rod on the market. You’ll have no trouble even when up against the largest offshore fishes. And needless to say, this rod will last you a lifetime.

The final technology is the Integrated Poly Curve (IPC) tooling technology. IPC further enhances the rod’s strength and boosts its sensitivity by eliminating transitional points in the rod blank. Plus, carbon fiber is the most sensitive material available for rod blanks. The carbon fiber, coupled with IPC, creates an unbelievably sensitive fishing rod.

Another nice benefit of having those technologies is lightness. With these technologies, less material is needed to get the same amount of strength. As such, the rod is also extremely light.

To sum it up, the St Croix Legend Tournament Inshore excels in every aspect. But be warned, its price is not for the faint of heart. Only serious anglers who are looking to invest in the best saltwater fishing gear available should get this fishing rod.

Of course, for the premium price tag, you’ll be well-protected by the 15-year warranty. If you won’t settle for anything less than the best saltwater fishing gear and have the money to spare, this is it.

Also, as promised, here’s the link to the baitcasting version.

Best Legend Tournament Alternative

2. Penn Battalion II Inshore

• Blank Material: Carbon Fiber
• Guides: Fuji Alconite
• Handle Material: Rubber Shrink Tubing/Cork
• Power: Ranges from Medium Light to Heavy

On to our next saltwater rod, the Penn Battalion II Inshore manages to be strong and durable while still remaining a sensitive and lightweight rod. It’s no Legend Tournament, but it’s a damn good substitute.

The Penn Battalion II Inshore boasts a heavy power blank. It’s not common to see such a power rating on a carbon rod since carbon fiber is weaker than fiberglass. However, Penn achieved this with their SLC2 construction that has spiral carbon wraps for the first layer and longitudinal carbon fibers for the second layer. The result is a powerful fishing rod you can use for both inshore and offshore fishing.

Next, it’s equipped with Fuji alconite guides for a long lifespan. Fuji alconite guides are the gold standard in fishing guides. These guides are not just smooth, but also super corrosion-resistant. With the hardy SLC2 construction and these long-lasting guides, this rod will last for years to come.

Another benefit of the carbon blank is the sensitivity. As the most sensitive material, carbon fiber allows this rod to be responsive and feel the subtle bites of small fishes. In fact, it even has an extra fast action option which proves how sensitive this rod is.

As for its weight, it weighs a mere 5.3 ounces for its medium power 7 ft option. This is once again thanks to its carbon blank, as carbon fiber is the lightest material for blanks. This rod is light enough that you won’t feel tired even after a long day of fishing.

I also really like the rubber shrink tube handle. As compared to EVA and cork grips, rubber shrink tube handles provide the most secure grip and maintain this grip even when they get wet.

All in all, this top-of-the-line fishing rod delivers on all fronts, and it’s no wonder. Penn is a brand that is renowned for their quality components and tournament-tested products and rods. They hold about 1,400 IGFA world rankings for their superb performances in various saltwater game fishing tournaments.

And fret not, just because it’s a first-rate rod doesn’t mean it’ll make a hole in your wallet. It’s a fair bit less durable and a tad less strong and sensitive than the Legend Tournament. But it’s also $200 cheaper while still having all the strength and toughness needed for both offshore and inshore fishing. That’s what makes this the perfect alternative to the rather pricey Legend Tournament.

Once again, here’s the link to the baitcasting version.

Best For Surf Fishing

3. Penn Carnage III Surf Conventional

• Blank Material: Composite
• Guides: Titanium
• Handle Material: Rubber Shrink Tubing
• Power: Ranges from Medium to Medium Heavy

If you’re looking for a saltwater surf rod, the Penn Carnage III is your best bet.

For surf fishing, your rod has to be no shorter than 8 ft or you won’t be able to cast past the breaking waves. The Penn Carnage III comes in 10 ft and 11 ft to reach the monsters far out.

Of course, length isn’t the only reason to get this rod. Strength-wise, it doesn’t disappoint with its medium heavy power. You won’t be taking home any giants, but sharks and such will be no issue.

Sensitivity-wise, the moderate fast action enables you to feel the soft bites of small fish. It isn’t responsive enough for tiny fish though, so you’ll miss out on those. Still, this isn’t a huge boon since no one goes surf fishing for tiny fish anyway.

Durability-wise, the titanium guides are the sturdiest on the market. There’s also the rubber shrink tubing that’s relatively tough, very secure, and comfortable to grip.

In short, this is a well-rounded saltwater fishing rod, and the best at its length. You won’t find a better saltwater surf rod than this.

Best Carnage III Alternative

4. St Croix Triumph Surf Spinning

• Blank Material: Carbon Fiber
• Guides: Aluminum Oxide
• Handle Material: Cork
• Power: Ranges from Ultra Light to Medium Heavy

Just like the Carnage III, the St Croix Triumph Surf was designed for saltwater surf fishing.

First off, it features a SCII carbon blank that has a higher strain rate than normal carbon fibers. This means it’s stronger than other carbon fibers. Naturally, this makes the St Croix Triumph able to wrestle down any inshore fish. Unfortunately, the highest power rating for this rod is medium heavy, which isn’t enough for the bigger offshore fishes. Nevertheless, it will more than suffice for medium sized fish and even some of the larger sized species like sharks.

Other than that though, it doesn’t have any flaws.

The aluminum oxide guides are almost as corrosion-resistant as the Fuji alconite guides, and will still give you a long-lasting fishing rod.

And as mentioned earlier, carbon blanks are sensitive and light. You’ll have no trouble fishing for hours with this rod because of its lightness.

It’s also worth noting that this is a one-of-a-kind rod that uses eco-friendly parts.

Overall, this rod will perform fantastically for surf fishing. It comes in lengths from 8-10 ft, perfectly. Since surf fishing calls for 8-12 ft rods and the Penn Carnage III only runs from 10-12 ft, you can get this rod if you want something from 8-10 ft. It’s able to match the Penn Carnage III in strength and sensitivity, but loses out in hardiness, this the lower price.

That said, it’s lower price but still top-notch performance makes it a great alternative to the Carnage III. Whether you found the Carnage III out of your budget or are just looking for shorter surf rods, this is the rod for you.

Best Budget

5. Ugly Stik Bigwater

• Blank Material: Composite
• Guides: Stainless Steel
• Handle Material: EVA Foam
• Power: Ranges from Medium to Heavy

This next rod is the cheapest way to get started saltwater fishing. The Ugly Stik Bigwater Spinning Rod offers rugged strength without compromising on sensitivity.

Right off the bat, you’ll notice that this saltwater fishing rod has a graphite composite blank. This allows you to have the sensitivity of graphite and the strength of fiberglass. The graphite composite rod is further strengthened by Ugly Tech Construction. Ugly Tech is known to make unbreakable rods. This is made possible by their unique way of constructing rods. With it, you’ll be able to pick up on soft bites and handle gigantic fishes.

On top of that, this rod comes with stainless steel guides and an EVA grip. Stainless steel holds up well in saltwater and EVA foam is the most comfortable material for rod handles.

The catch is that this rod is much heavier than all the previous saltwater fishing rods. While fiberglass is stronger than carbon fiber, it’s also heavier. And while Ugly Tech Construction is strong, it uses more material.

At this price point though, those downsides are only to be expected. If you’re looking for a quality saltwater fishing rod on a tight budget, look no further.

Here’s the link to the baitcasting version.

Best Inshore

6. St Croix Teramar Southeast

• Blank Material: Composite
• Guides: Fuji O-Ring
• Handle Material: Cork
• Power: Medium Heavy

Last on the list, the St Croix Teramar Southeast lacks the strength for offshore fish, but excels for fishing inshore.

As a glance at the features would tell you, this rod sports a cork handle and Fuji O-Ring guides. O-Ring guides are made with aluminum oxide. This, together with the long-lasting cork grip, guarantees many years of service for this rod.

However, its strength is capped at medium heavy, which isn’t enough for the bigger offshore fishes. That’s why it’s only the best inshore fishing rod.

Moving on to responsiveness, the fast action guarantees you won’t miss the tugs of even tiny fish.

You’ll also be glad to hear that this rod is quite affordable, coming in at a little under 150 bucks. For those who only plan on inshore saltwater fishing, this could just be the rod you’re looking for.

Here’s the link to the baitcasting version.

What To Consider Before Buying A Saltwater Fishing Rod

By now, you should know which rod you’re going to get.

However, each rod has multiple options and each represents a different rod length, power, action, etc.

For the best saltwater fishing experience, make sure to read this buying guide so you pick the right one.

Blank Material

Rod blanks are typically made of either carbon fiber, fiberglass, or composite which is a mixture of both.

You may also have seen some graphite rods, but graphite is just another name for carbon fiber.

Carbon fiber is more expensive, more sensitive and lighter than fiberglass. On the other hand, fiberglass is stronger and more sturdy.

Composite is a material that contains the good qualities of both materials.

Composite rods have the sensitivity of carbon and the strength of fiberglass.

Of course, a pure carbon fiber rod would still be lighter and more sensitive and a pure fiberglass rod would still be stronger. But composite offers the best of both worlds.

I prefer carbon saltwater fishing rods for fishing inshore and fiberglass or composite saltwater fishing rods when I fish offshore. However, this ultimately comes down to what you value in a fishing rod.

Rod Power

Rod power refers to how much force is required to bend a rod, aka stiffness.

It’s quite commonsensical. You’ll need a stiffer rod for bigger fish.

It isn’t just the fact that a flimsy rod won’t hold up against big fish. Rods with heavier power also work better with bigger and heavier lures, which you need for big fish.

As such, you’ll need to consider where you’ll be fishing and what fish you’ll be targeting.

You’ll find smaller fish inshore than offshore, so you can go with lighter power saltwater fishing rods.

I recommend using a medium light to medium power rod for fishing inshore. You can deviate from this if you plan on only targeting panfish, in which case a light power rod will be fine.

Offshore fishes are larger, so go with at least medium heavy rods.

If you’re going after prize fish though, make sure to get at least heavy rods and get extra heavy power if possible.

Rod Action

Rod action is a measure of how high up your rod bends when you apply pressure on the rod tip.

The higher up it bends, the faster the action and the more sensitive your rod will be.

For fishing inshore where the fishes are smaller, you’ll need faster action saltwater fishing rods to feel the softer tugs.

I recommend getting at least a moderate fast action rod, although a fast action rod would be more ideal.

For offshore fishing, the fishes will be larger, meaning they’ll have stronger bites.

As such, you can afford to get a moderate or even a slow action fishing rod. Of course, more sensitivity is always good, so if you see a fast action rod available, go for it.

Rod Length

It’s critical that you get the right length because it’ll determine how far you can cast, how stiff your rod is, and your rod weight.

A longer rod gives you more leverage to cast further and is the biggest deciding factor in how far you can cast.

A longer rod also tends to mean more strength, although it will only affect your rod stiffness to a small degree.

And lastly, more length means more material and thus more weight.

As such, whether you’re fishing offshore or inshore, stick with 6-8 ft.

Unless you’re surf fishing, you won’t ever need more casting distance than an 8 ft rod will provide. A longer rod will only add on unnecessary weight. At the same time, a shorter rod than 6 ft may not cast far enough, especially if you’re fishing inshore.

If you’re going surf fishing, follow this guide to find the right rod length.

Line Guides

It is particularly important that your line guides are corrosion-resistant since you’ll be fishing in saltwater for long periods of time.

The good news is that most metals are corrosion-resistant, and ceramic is completely rust-proof.

Some of the better metals to look out for are titanium and alconite. Both of these are the best materials for guides, being strong, smooth, and highly corrosion-resistant.

Reel Seat

Lastly, though not of huge importance, reel seats will affect sensitivity to some extent. Inferior reel seats won’t hold up against larger fish and your reel can end up being ripped off.

The best reel seats will be made of metal or graphite, so look out for those materials. Minimal reel seats that expose the rod blank also provide an extra sensitivity boost, although it won’t really matter as long as you have the rod action that you want.

How To Take Care Of A Saltwater Fishing Rod

1. After fishing, always clean your rod with a cloth, using either freshwater or lukewarm water and vinegar or a mild detergent.
2. If there’s any remaining dirt, clean it off with a toothbrush, or a brush with soft bristles. You can then wipe it dry with a cloth or just let it dry by itself. However, there will always be some moisture on the rod even after wiping, so make sure to let it dry for a while more even if you’ve cleaned it with a dry cloth.
3. Once a month, remove the spinning reel (or your baitcasting reel, depending on which you have) and lubricate the reel seat and other moving parts, like roller guides.
4. Next, wipe off excess lubricant
5. After putting back the reel and tightening all the respective screws, apply a final layer of silicone lubricant. This will not only lubricate, but also resist water and protect the surface from wear and tear.
6. This next step is optional, but recommended if you want a sleek-looking rod. After you’ve completed all the previous steps, you can lightly coat your rod with bowling alley wax. This will keep your rod looking sleek and shiny. Just note that this only works on modern rods that have that polished finish.
7. Finally, when aboard boats, make sure to store your rods safely so that they won’t collide against hard surfaces or other rods. Rod racks are very useful for this purpose, but you can also wrap up your rods with towels to protect them.

My Verdict

Saltwater conditions are harsh, and lesser saltwater spinning rods just won’t cut it.

While all the saltwater fishing rods on this list will get the job done, the absolute cream of the crop is the St Croix Legend Tournament Inshore. It stands out even among the best saltwater rods because it excels in literally every aspect.

With that, all the best in your saltwater ventures!