The following ammunition cartridge ballistics information and chart can be used to approximately compare 10mm Auto vs .454 Casull ammo rounds. Please note, the following information reflects the estimated average ballistics for each caliber and does not pertain to a particular manufacturer, bullet weight, or jacketing type. As such, the following is for comparative information purposes only and should not be used to make precise predictions of the trajectory, performance, or true ballistics of any particular 10mm Auto or .454 Casull rounds for hunting, target shooting, plinking, or any other usage. The decision for which round is better for a given application should be made with complete information, and this article simply serves as a comparative guide, not the final say. For more detailed ballistics information please refer to the exact round in question or contact the manufacturer for the pertinent information. True 10mm Auto and .454 Casull ballistics information can vary widely from the displayed information, and it is important to understand that the particular characteristics of a given round can make a substantive difference in its true performance.

Caliber Type Velocity (fps) Energy (ft-lb) 10mm Auto Handgun 1200 550 .454 Casull Handgun 1600 1700

Velocity

As illustrated in the chart, 10mm Auto rounds – on average – achieve a velocity of about 1200 feet per second (fps) while .454 Casull rounds travel at a velocity of 1600 fps. To put this into perspective, a Boeing 737 commercial airliner travels at a cruising speed of 600 mph, or 880 fps. That is to say, 10mm Auto bullets travel 1.4 times the speed of a 737 airplane at cruising speed, while .454 Casull bullets travel 1.8 times that same speed.

Various calibers

Energy

Furthermore, the muzzle energy of a 10mm Auto round averages out to 550 ft-lb, while a .454 Casull round averages out to about 1700 ft-lb. One way to think about this is as such: a foot-pound is a unit of energy equal to the amount of energy required to raise a weight of one pound a distance of one foot. So a 10mm Auto round exits the barrel with kinetic energy equal to the energy required for linear vertical displacement of 550 pounds through a one foot distance, while a .454 Casull round exiting the barrel has energy equal to the amount required to displace 1700 pounds over the same one foot distance. As a rule of thumb, when it comes to hunting, muzzle energy is what many hunters look at when deciding on what caliber of firearm / ammunition to select. Generally speaking, the higher the muzzle energy, the higher the stopping power. Again, the above is for comparative information purposes only, and you should consult the exact ballistics for the particular 10mm Auto or .454 Casull cartridge you’re looking at purchasing.

Please click the above links to take a look at all of the 10mm Auto and .454 Casull ammo we have in stock and ready to ship, and let us know any parting thoughts in the comment section below.

Foundry Outdoors is your trusted home for buying archery, camping, fishing, hunting, shooting sports, and outdoor gear online.

We offer cheap ammo and bulk ammo deals on the most popular ammo calibers. We have a variety of deals on Rifle Ammo, Handgun Ammo, Shotgun Ammo & Rimfire Ammo, as well as ammo for target practice, plinking, hunting, or shooting competitions. Our website lists special deals on 9mm Ammo, 10mm Ammo, 45-70 Ammo, 6.5 Creedmoor ammo, 300 Blackout Ammo, 10mm Ammo, 5.56 Ammo, Underwood Ammo, Buffalo Bore Ammo and more special deals on bulk ammo.

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The most common confused questions I hear on identification are about elderberries and the water hemlock. Had I not students such a confusion would have never occurred to me as to me the two species don’t look alike at all. Generally said elderberry fruit is edible, the entire water hemlock is deadly. Indeed, many call water hemlock the most deadly plant in North America. Learning to identify the two is very important.

The Elderberry, Sambucus canadensis, is a shrub with bark, to ten feet or more. Woody. Its blossom is a dense flattop. It produces, locally, black berries about BB size. It has opposite compound leaves, feathery. Most of the veins on the leaf either fade after leaving the midrib or terminate at the tip of the teeth, not in the notches. If you have a #10 magnifying glass you can see tiny veins terminating at the tips of the teeth. Occasionally an elderberry vein will terminate at a notch, but it is uncommon.

The Water Hemlock is herbaceous, two to seven feet. It has a green main stem with purple splotches, or is entirely dusky purple particularly when young. The sectioned, hollow stem has vertical grooves on the outside. It produces a fire cracker-like explosion white blossom that made up of many smaller umbrella-like blossoms. Those produce seeds, not fruit. It has alternating, compound leaves, coarse, toothy. On individual leaves most, not all, but most of the veins clearly terminate between the teeth, in the notches.

Let’s also talk about habitat. Both elderberries and water hemlock are associated with water. But there are some differences: Elderberries can tolerate more dry areas and Water Hemlock can grow in water. If you are in a dry area that is dry most of the time and you think you have one or the other it will probably be an elderberry. If you have damp ground it can be either. If it is standing water most of the time it will probably be water hemlock. Season also counts. Elderberries are year round locally. Water Hemlock can die back in the winter.

Now a closer look: Elderberries are shrubs. They are woody. They have bark. The bark is green and smooth when very young with occasional white dots that are actually lenticels, which is one way the plant exchanges gasses. With time and height the elderberry develops a familiar looking bark, smooth and brown. Now the lenticels are corky lumps seen at left. On much older plants the bark will become vertically furrowed. The inner core of the trunk and branches — the pith — is soft and can be easily reamed out. Not a long-lived plant, just a few years, it can grow to about four inches through. When it dies and dries it leaves a vertical standing small dead tree. The dead wood breaks easily and burns well.

The Water Hemlock is herbaceous, read not woody. It does not have bark. It has nodes, which are swellings where leaves attach or used to attach. The main stem has vertical groves in it and is hollow. It is often streaked with purple, or is splotched with purple. It is usually at least purple at the nodes and sometimes young plants can be entirely dusky purple. Ocassionally the entire older plant will be purple. A stem that is an inch through would be a large water hemlock. The plant is hairless. When crushed it can have a pleasant liquorish or anise scent, or it can also smell like mouse urine. Remember it is deadly and can kill in virtually minutes. The toxicity decreases vertically with the roots the most toxic and the seeds the least. Taste is not a warning sign in that those who have eaten the roots raw or cooked said they were flavorful and very enjoyable. Depending upon the size of the individual, the amount consumed and which parts consumed death will occur in 15 minutes to a little over two hours. This is not the hemlock given to Socrates which was a gentle species. This species produces severe pain and convulsions, torturing its victim horribly until death.

The leaves of both species are different, not only from a distance but close up as well. The veins of the elderberry leaf either fade as they reach the edge of the leaf or terminate at the tip of the teeth. You may need a small magnifying class to see that. The veins are most prominent as they leave the light-colored midrib. Also note that the teeth are quite small, like the edge of a small serrated steak knife.

The veins of the water hemlock are quite different. The veins of the water hemlock clearly terminate BETWEEN the larger teeth of the leaf. See arrows to right. There is no ambiguity. The veins end between the teeth. Even when a vein splits the split ends go to the notches, not to the tips of the leaf. There may be an occasional exception but the trend of the majority is very clear. You will note that while each species’ leaf has an acute tip (pointed) the elderberry leaf is round near the tip whereas the water hemlock leaf is not.

The elderberry is not without its dangers as well. The wood is toxic and has poisoned folks who have made whistles out of the green wood. Unripe elderberry fruit is toxic and the ripe fruit bothers some people. The ripe fruit is better used dried, cooked or made into wine or jelly than consumed raw.

Lastly, the “hemlock” tree is a totally different species and issue. To read more about different colored elderberries, click here.

Learn the steps to make your own venison snack sticks at home on a Traeger grill with this step-by-step tutorial.

This post contains affiliate links for The Bearded Butchers, Amazon, and Traeger, but all opinions and thoughts are my own. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.

For many of us living in Wisconsin, deer hunting is a big deal! It’s a chance for hunters to go out into the woods and provide meat for their family for a relatively low cost. This year, our family was lucky enough to have three deer to process, giving us a chance to enjoy some hearty and delicious meals like venison stew. But one of our favorite and most practical ways of processing our venison is in the form of venison snack sticks. This year, we decided to make them ourselves (we’ve made sausage at home before, but not snack sticks), and we were really pleased with how smooth and simple the process went. We hope that you can benefit from this post and can start making your own snack sticks at home too!

Table of Contents

• Tools Needed to Make Venison Snack Sticks on a Traeger Grill
• Ingredients for Venison Snack Sticks
• Steps to Making Venison Snack Sticks on a Traeger Grill
  • Mix Venison and Pork Pieces
  • Grind Meat
  • Add Seasonings
  • Grind Meat Again
  • Stuff Casings
  • Smoke the Snack Sticks
  • Cool Snack Sticks
  • Cut and Package Snack Sticks
  • Store Snack Sticks
• Video of Steps
• Get Your Supplies at The Bearded Butchers
• Save and share this post!
• More meat recipes
• Want to read more about growing, raising, and cooking your own food?

Tools Needed to Make Venison Snack Sticks on a Traeger Grill

• Meat Grinder: We used this meat grinder from Amazon for our small batch processing.
• Sausage Stuffer and Stuffing Horn: We wanted to invest in a sausage stuffer that was going to last us our lifetime, so we got the MEAT! 15 lb. vertical sausage stuffer for our needs. For stuffing the snack sticks, we purchased the 10 mm size stuffing horn.
• Traeger Grill (or Smoker): The Traeger will be used to cook your snack sticks slowly to a safe-to-eat temperature.
• Snack Stick Casings: You can get these in a kit (like we did) from the Bearded Butchers, or order them separately.
• Sharp Knife: These knives are really sharp, which is exactly what you want when you’re at that final stage of cutting the snack sticks. This is also a great knife for cutting the venison too!
• Large Container: You’ll need a food-grade container to hold the ground meat as it is grinding and for mixing in seasonings.
• Meat Thermometer: You’ll use a meat thermometer to continuously check the cooking progress of your snack sticks and to help you know when they’ve finished cooking.
• Wooden Cutting Board

Ingredients for Venison Snack Sticks

• 20 pounds venison:Best harvested from a big buck with a fun story to tell! But not necessary, of course. You’ll want to cut your venison into smaller sized chunks so that it can easily fit through the grinder.
• 5 pounds pork: You can use pork trimmings or pork fat. Venison is a very lean meat, so adding pork fat helps to add flavor and hold the meat together. Again, make sure that this is cut into small sized pieces to fit through your grinder.
• Seasonings and Cure: We used a Cajun snack stick bundle from the Bearded Butchers that we really enjoyed. They have a lot of great seasonings over at the Bearded Butchers to check out and try!

Steps to Making Venison Snack Sticks on a Traeger Grill

Mix Venison and Pork Pieces

In a large tub, combine your venison and pork together so that the meats are mixed equally and are combined nicely for the grinding process, which comes next.

Grind Meat

Grind your venison and pork mixture into a large container. During this first grind of meat, you’ll want to use a coarse grinding plate so that the meat can go through the grinder easily.

Add Seasonings

After your meat has been ground once, mix in the seasonings and cure. You can also buy a smoke flavoring packet to mix in, and you’ll want to do that now during this stage if you are choosing to use that. Make sure that the seasoning covers all of the meat equally. We used our hands to manually mix it in, but you can purchase a meat mixer to do this job if you’d rather.

Grind Meat Again

After seasonings have been well mixed into the meat, grind the meat once again using a finer cutting plate. This is the final grinding stage and prepares the meat to go into the casings.

Stuff Casings

Fill your sausage stuffer, and then slowly push the meat into the casings. Don’t overfill or underfill your casings; simply let it come out of the stuffing horn to fill the entire casing evenly.

Smoke the Snack Sticks

Take your rope of snack sticks and place them on the trays of the Traeger grill without them overlapping. You can use both upper and lower grates of your grill for this smoking process. You will cook the snack sticks slowly, changing temperature as you go. You should cook your snack sticks at these temperatures during these times in the cooking process:

• Hours One and Two: Smoke at 165 degrees
• Hour Three: Raise the temperature to 175 degrees
• Hour Four: Raise the temperature again to 200 degrees. *Your finished snack sticks should reach an internal temperature of 155-160 degrees.

Cool Snack Sticks

Once your snack sticks have reached the 155-160 degree mark, you should remove the snack sticks from the grill and place back into your clean container (be sure you don’t place it back into a container that had raw meat in it as this can potentially cause bacteria to be spread). Mist the snack sticks with cold water to stop the cooking process, then drain. Place the snack sticks in the refrigerator until cooled down completely.

Cut and Package Snack Sticks

The final step is to cut your snack sticks into pieces that will fit into your packaging. We vacuum sealed our snack sticks in quart bags, which allows for about an 8 inch snack stick and fits about 10-12 per package. In total, we got about 200 eight inch snack sticks from this process.

Store Snack Sticks

Store your snack sticks in the freezer until you are ready to use them.

Video of Steps

Watch this short video to get an overview of what each step looks like.

Get Your Supplies at The Bearded Butchers

My husband Dan has been a huge fan of The Bearded Butchers for a long time. To purchase some the great products we used to make our snack sticks, head on over to The Bearded Butcher’s website and shop their store.

The Bearded Butchers often offer great discounts upon arrival to their site, so please check them out!

Save and share this post!

More meat recipes

Smoked Venison Summer Sausage on a Traeger Grill

Want to read more about growing, raising, and cooking your own food?

Check out these posts!

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RAISING CORNISH CROSS CHICKENS FOR MEAT: THE ULTIMATE MEAT BIRD

I’ve always loved Halloween, and I usually do something “seasonal” when it comes around. As a disclaimer, I have to tell you that if you’re one of my vegetarian or vegan friends, you’ll probably want to skip this one. If you eat meat, and you appreciate the interesting odd tidbit, you may find it interesting, as I did.

Most of you will know that there are a lot of deer in America, and that human-deer conflicts from overpopulation can be an issue in some places. In a way we’ve created a new, almost perfect habitat for wild creatures to find food. We all know racoons are adept at opening garbage cans. Squirrels love nuts, but also don’t mind a slice of old pizza.

Bears (on my mind as I’m getting ready for an off-grid trip into the British Canadian Wilderness as I write this) are well known for being adaptive carnivores. And, as my hosta-growing neighbors can tell you, an urban garden and landscaping is a just a giant, 24-hour salad bambi bar.

I’m not even going to try to tackle arguments for or against urban hunting/culling, overpopulation, or the destruction that deer can rue unchecked on local ecology (the more pressing discussion as opposed to ethics, in my mind).

Those arguments are far too deep, sprawling, and often too opaque to cover in 1000 words or so. I do believe that the actions of man have made it so that the population needs to be kept in check, but what the most efficient and humane way to go about that is a gladiatorial arena of opinions and emotions for some.

The reality is that plenty of urban areas have deer culls, and will continue to for the foreseeable future (one location I reference used their cull to donate 8,600 pounds of venison to food shelves-a good byproduct I think). What I’m talking about today involves something much more focused on the meat of deer itself, and the timeline at which they’re harvested.

In Wisconsin and Minnesota, the deer season runs (roughly here, including archery) from late September to mid November. In places where urban deer culls are held, the season may not be in the fall, it might be later in the winter, or nearly spring, or, as in the case of the cull at U-M Dearborn I link to at the end of this post, over Spring break.

Mating season of deer should be around October-Dec. When a hunter harvests a doe, the last thing they probably think about is if she’d been with a buck. If you harvest and butcher one of those does in the spring though, the butchery can be, ahem, more interesting.

So, just so happens I have a friend in Virginia that participates in his local urban deer cull, and it’s in the spring. And, for the past few years, the does he’s harvested have had some extra baggage in their unborn fetuses. So, he sent me one to cook. Thanks Mark.

I’ve always been fascinating by the odd, unusual edible, and, I’m also a passionate consumer of offal and organ meats, so, it’s honestly right up my alley. What I really wanted to know though, was if there was a tradition of eating unborn animals around the world I could find. Besides a casual Reddit mention, I can’t.

But, humans, enterprising beings that we are, have undoubtedly eaten them, although the only historical anecdote I’ve come across is Indigenous people cooking buffalo fetus for the elderly who have problems chewing. At the end of the day, meat, is meat.

Unpacking the cooler my friend overnighted me, I found a little vacuum sealed bag with what looked to be a squirrel inside. For all intents and purposes, I’d assume you could cook a small fetus of similar animals of similar size as you would any small game. And small game is exactly what my unborn deer tasted like.

What does it taste like?

The big question. If you can get past the aversion, which, is, to be blunt, an inculturalized phobia other (non-American) people around the world probably wouldn’t have a problem eating, a deer fetus cooks up like a squirrel or other very small game, and tastes like meltingly tender deer veal. I found it mild, extremely tender and pleasant.

Imagine eating the most tender confit you’ve ever had. It is in no way strong tasting like organ meats or offal. I ate all of it’s organs to compare them with other small game, and found them near-identical to rabbit and squirrel offal in taste, which are all mild and delicious. I often compare small game offal to poultry organs (chicken, pigeon etc) as their size and taste is pretty similar.

Other notes

The proto-skin

Everything is mini, and in the process of being formed at this stage, including the skin, which feels a bit like a layer of translucent fat, and, although it won’t render out anything noticeable, at least from my experience, seems to really insulate the meat and keep it extremely moist. it was delicious, and seemed to melt into the meat per caul fat.

The tiniest of bones

One hurdle will cooking small game is that the bones can be tiny and hard to keep track of. With rare exception, I do not like bones in my soup and I find it off-putting, as will any average dinner guest.

That being said, as it was the size of a large squirrel, it wasn’t going to make a huge meal. With the higher proportion of bones, barbecuing it and slapping it on a bun wasn’t going to work, so I turned to a classic small game recipe: the ol’ Brunswick stew.

Brunswick stew is traditionally made with different types of small game, so it worked out just fine. To bulk the meat out I added 2 smoked pigeons from the freezer, rounded it with some of my favorite heirloom tepary beans from Romona Farms.

I also replaced the now common ketchup or barbecue sauce with a dash of birch syrup and some canned tomatoes. It made for one of the most interesting meals of small game I’ve had to date. If I’ll do it again, I don’t know.

Further Reading

VA Urban Archery Season

Deer Culling in Philadelphia

Spring Break Deer Cull

Are you looking for a night vision scope that you can only use at night? Do you need a night vision scope that will convert the rifle scope that you use in the day to still be useful at night? Then you have to think about the money that you are willing to spend on your night vision weapon sights. 

Picking the Right Night Vision Equipment for Your Air Rifle

If you want to buy a night vision scope, you have to decide if you would like it to fit directly into your rifle. Some night vision scopes would need to be raised so that you can get enough clearance to get a multi-shot.

There are different night vision scopes that you can find in the market and it can get confusing and overwhelming in the beginning. You can check reviews to find the night vision scope that will give you the best value for your money. It does not follow that just because one scope is more expensive than another scope, it is already better. You can also ask other enthusiasts for their recommendations.

Let us say that you would rather get a night vision scope that will serve as an add-on to your rifle. You can check how well the products do when you consider these factors:

• Battery Life – The longer the battery life, the better.
• Detection Range – You would like your scope to help you detect movement even from a distance. The better the detection range, the more that you can effectively use your air rifle.

There are some night vision kits that you can purchase online. You can also choose to buy from actual stores. You can ask the staff some questions about the kits that you want to buy. You can also look for one that can offer better eye relief. Remember that the more comfortable it is to use your night vision scope, the better.

How to Choose the Right Night Vision Equipment for Airsoft?

Playing airsoft is a hobby that a lot of people enjoy. If you have not tried it yet, it is about time that you consider it. You can play it with people you know. You can also join groups and make new friends. One important requirement when you play airsoft is to have the best equipment. 

Is it Worth it to Purchase Night Vision Equipment?

Not everyone enjoys playing airsoft at night. If you have been playing for a long time, you should try it out. You are going to have an entirely different experience that you will still enjoy. Some even enjoy it even more than playing during the day.

Just imagine if you would get to feel like a hero while on the battlefield. You can thank your skills, your knowledge, and your equipment for all the things that you would be able to do. The enemies from the other team will be hard to see at night. The challenge can make you more passionate about playing.

Some Night Vision Devices to Consider Getting

You are familiar with the term “night vision devices” but you do not know what you need to get to play airsoft properly. Some of the items that you can get are the following:

• Monoculars – This can be attached to the weapon that you are using. You can also use it on its own.
• Binoculars – This can provide you with a better viewing angle. This is ideal if you want to improve your line of vision. Just imagine how useful this would be when the enemies are trying to hide in the dark.
• Goggles – You are going to need safety equipment when playing airsoft. Using your usual goggles might not work when you are trying to play at night. Night vision goggles will keep your vision clear at night.

You might think that using night vision devices to protect your eyes is meaningless. Remember this: your eyes are sensitive, if you get hit, you may lose your sight. It is better to look through goggles that can make your view slightly distorted than not having eyes to see at all.

Some Features to Consider

Different night vision devices will have features that can be helpful for you and the game that you want to play.

• Improved Range – The better your range, the more that you will be able to spot enemies even when the field where you are playing at is huge.
• Improved Illumination – You just need a small amount of light to see your enemies. It will also help you become more oriented with your surroundings in the darkness.
• Top-Down Ventilation System – This is a feature that you can find in most modern night vision devices. This will prevent the goggles and the other devices from fogging up while you are using them.

Remember that the range of the night vision equipment will not only depend on the item itself. In the dark, it can be tricky when the terrain is higher than usual. Other light sources may also distort the range of your enemies. 

Conclusion

Let us say that you have already chosen the right night vision devices. Make sure that you will use it accordingly. You should also remember to protect yourself at all times while you are playing airsoft. Things are going to be more exciting at night. Have fun with the right night vision devices.

Food plots require planning, design and management to be successful. Before investing time, labor and money, you should determine the goals of your food plot. If you enjoy growing things, working with the land and nature, and seeing wildlife thrive, you may generally find installing food plots rewarding. If you install food plots as a main goal to grow and harvest trophy animals, you may soon become frustrated. Food plots alone do not create large antlered, trophy sized white-tailed deer. Genetics and the age structure of bucks in a herd influence antler size more than additional food. Food plots should not be used as a substitute for natural wildlife foods. Food plots should only be a small part of a larger management plan for wildlife in your area.

Expectations for Your Food Plot

A balanced management strategy is important to create a sustainable food plot. You should begin with realistic expectations for your food plot based on your land resources and local wildlife populations. Once those expectations are determined, you can begin planning the number of plots, size of the plot, plot location, and species of plants. While many articles and books contain information about simply sizing food plots based on desired wildlife, there are additional variables that should be considered as you design a food plot for your land. Consider the following questions before installing a food plot:

1. Are deer the only species of wildlife you hope to attract?
2. What is the population of those wildlife species already in the area or per square mile?
3. Do you expect to harvest wildlife from hunting or just use the food plots to attract wildlife for viewing?
4. Do you plan to use the food plot to increase the variety of food for area wildlife, or is there already naturally occurring food or agricultural crops available on your property and surrounding areas?
5. Do you need additional equipment to prepare, install and maintain the food plot you plan to establish?
6. How long do you expect to maintain the plot(s)?
7. How much of a time commitment are you willing to make for future years to keep the plot(s) functional?
8. How much money are you willing to spend now and in the future to keep the plot(s) productive?
9. Would your food plots become a conflict if your neighbors are trying to eradicate the wildlife you are trying to attract?

Answering these questions will determine the feasibility of attracting the desired wildlife in your area and your ability to invest time, money and effort in creating and managing the food plot. To help you with this process, this fact sheet is the first of three that serves as a guide for creating food plots for wildlife. This fact sheet covers the design, layout and habitat requirements of deer. The second fact sheet focuses on the planting of the food plot, including what and when to plant along with the equipment needed to plant and care for your food plot. The third fact sheet identifies management strategies to care for the food plot for sustainability and environmental health. This first fact sheet will cover basic considerations for designing your food plot.

Food plot with purple top turnips. Photo by Clif Little, Ohio State University Extension.

Food Plot Size

Food plot size is dependent on the population of deer and the size of your property. For example, creating a food plot for white-tailed deer where heavy populations currently exist, you may need large, numerous plots to prevent over use, especially if few agricultural crops are nearby. In this situation, plots ranging from 2 to 5 acres or more are recommended to handle heavy pressure and minimize excessive injury to plants in the food plot(s).

To help identify areas with heavy pressure and to monitor use, you can create a deer exclosure. A deer exclosure is a small, fenced plot made of wire or plastic materials that prevents deer access to the protected plants. You can monitor the level of browsing, and tell which plants are preferred. For example, if plants such as clover are constantly over-browsed, they will die out in the plot but be present in the exclusion cage, providing a comparison to what would be growing if plants were not over-browsed. If consistent high levels of browsing occur, additional plots or acres would need to be installed so the plant species you want to grow can be maintained in the food plot.

In less densely-populated wildlife areas, or where agricultural crops are plentiful, plots less than 2 acres may provide enough forage to meet your food plot goals. For hunting situations, ¼- to ½-acre plots may be ideal, but choosing or creating areas where enough sunlight reaches the plants is critical. If your food plot is expected to provide feed and/or cover in the late winter months, then the plot should be a minimum of 1 acre and, for this purpose, “bigger is better.”

How many food plots or what total acreage should you install? The level of management and desired impact you plan to achieve determines this. If you intend to “intensely” managing the area for high quality and quantity of forage, installing food plots on 1 to 1 ½ percent of your property can provide positive impact for deer in a given area. This would be 7 to 10 acres of food plots per square mile (or per 640 acres). With a more “average or normal” management approach, a minimum of 5 percent of the property should be dedicated to have noticeable impact for white-tailed deer. To provide optimum nutrition and benefit, food plots should be evenly distributed across the entire property. A variety of crops may be necessary to provide high quality food year-round.

If you have 50 to 100 acres and want to draw, attract or hunt deer on your property, where do you start? First, determine the quantity, quality, type and location of food sources near your land. Then, you can identify supplemental food sources for your food plot to make a significant difference for the wildlife. For example, energy in the diet of white-tailed deer is critical during late fall and winter. So, corn or grain sorghum, which are high-energy forages, could provide much needed energy during that time of the year. This would especially be true in years of poor acorn production. (See the nutritional considerations section for more information on food sources.)

Roadway seeded with annual rye and oats. Photo by Clif Little, Ohio State University Extension.

Food Plot Shape

The shape and layout of the food plot also needs to be considered in your goals. Making an opening in a woodland or installing a food plot in an existing opening can change the ecosystem around the perimeter of the opening. This abrupt change on the perimeter, where one habitat type stops and another begins, is called an edge.

Increasing habitat edges can promote usage of the area by deer and other wildlife. The amount of edge created by a long narrow plot is much greater than a square plot with equal acreage. Also, wavy, uneven edges provide extra length and a more natural look than straight line edges. The distance from cover to the edge may be of concern for small species of wildlife. If the distance is too far, the smaller species may avoid the area because of possible exposure to predators. To help reduce this concern, placing food plots near plentiful cover is beneficial. Many larger game species of wildlife prefer to move along and inhabit woodland edges; however, these woodland edges may increase predation of small animals and cause relocation of some bird species. To prevent this, planting shrubs, vines and other low story vegetation adjacent to the plot creates a soft edge along the perimeter to encourage wildlife movement through those areas.

Also, consider your usage of the area when designing your food plot. If the food plot is designed for hunting purposes, archers may find smaller narrow plots more suitable to reduce shot distances. The width of plots may be less important to firearm hunters.

Some logging roads are great places for food plots if there is direct sun for at least four to six hours each day to provide adequate sunlight for plant growth. You may need to cut back the majority of the tall trees approximately 50 feet from the road, at least on one side of the road, to create adequate light. Placing the tops of these trees near game trails that cross the road may enhance the crossing spot, by providing additional cover. For smaller wildlife species, such as rabbits or game birds, placing food plots near wintertime escape cover is important.

Logging roads that run east/west are ideal for seeding because of increased sunlight. Photo by Mark Landefeld, Ohio State University Extension. This picture shows habitat successional stage 4, a young woodland. Photo by Mark Landefeld, Ohio State University Extension.

Providing Cover

If the goal in managing your property is to attract and keep certain wildlife species on your land, providing the right habitat is critical. All wildlife need food, water and ample cover to thrive. You will be most successful by determining the most limiting, or prominent need, for a selected wildlife species, and then providing it. The first step is to determine the stage of habitat available on your property. The stage of habitat identifies food and cover resources available to wildlife.

The successional stages of habitat are categorized by numbers one through five, and will change over a period of time, if left unattended:

• Stage 1 – Bare ground: will become vegetated and turn into a grass or weedy field
• Stage 2 – Weedy fields or a tall grass field: provides insects, seeds for food, forage, cover, and will become brushy with time if left uncut
• Stage 3 – The brushy stage: low growing shrubs or bushes that provide woody browse, a variety of berries, more seeds and trees start to grow
• Stage 4 – Young woodland: has relatively dense number of trees providing cover and food for many wildlife species
• Stage 5 – Mature woodland: larger trees with an open understory, provide a variety of nut trees, soft mast and cavity trees for nesting

Once you have determined the stages of habitat on your property, you can evaluate the available habitat resources and plan for those that are limited. Sometimes, enhancing cover and natural food sources (food plots can also be considered habitat) can make more difference in attracting wildlife than installing food plots alone. Single, small food plots have little impact on the overall food supply for wildlife, but creating thick, dense cover of brushy low growing shrubs or bushes, for example, may draw and keep white-tailed deer in a desired location. Wildlife biologists differ on amounts of “sanctuary,” or dense cover, areas for deer, but a minimum of 25 percent of your property area is usually recommended.

Management will help create wildlife habitat. Photo by Clif Little, Ohio State University Extension.

An example of thick, dense cover for deer is 3 to 5 acre blocks of dense vegetation consisting of bushes, trees, briars and other woody vegetation that limits visibility beyond 50-60 yards. These areas, where little to zero human activity occurs, will create a secure bedding area and attract white-tailed deer. Providing quality cover like this should be a top priority if nothing like this currently exists on your property. Again, more is better regarding available space, so establishing multiple dense-cover, or sanctuary, areas is preferred.

If hunting is planned, strategically position food plots in relation to bedding areas to maximize success. Prevailing wind direction should be taken into account so the wind is not blowing from the hunter’s position directly to the bedding area. Normally, cross wind arrangements provide greater advantage for the hunter.

Hedgerows also provide important cover and food resources for many species of wildlife. A hedgerow is typically a line of closely-spaced trees, shrubs, vines and herbaceous plants that provide both food and cover. These structures often form along old fence rows, but may also be constructed where needed. Hedgerows serve as great wind breaks for wildlife in open areas and provide cover for small animals. Hedgerows also serve as travel corridors providing concealed travel areas for wildlife.

Encouraging Natural Foods

Increasing natural food production may be the most overlooked part of many landowners’ management plans. Raspberries, blackberries, apples, crabapples, nuts of all kinds, persimmons, elderberries, sumac, grapevines, dogwood, viburnum, and many other natural foods can provide enormous amounts of nutrition for wildlife if you manage them properly. Many of the above listed trees and shrubs can also be planted or encouraged in hedgerows and soft edges.

American crabapple producing fruit. Photo by Clif Little, Ohio State University Extension.

Within woodlands, a technique called Crop Tree Release can be used to enhance natural food sources for wildlife. A crop tree is one that a landowner wants to favor, or enhance, through the removal of less desirable trees around it. For example, an oak tree’s acorn production will increase as the tree’s crown size increases. To stimulate tree crown growth, a landowner can provide additional sunlight by cutting down, topping or girdling competitors that are overshadowing and reducing sunlight to the crop tree. Releasing crop trees to promote increased growth and food production should be part of a manager’s food enhancement plan.

For more information on crop tree release, see OSU fact sheet “Enhancing Food (Mast) Production for Woodland Wildlife in Ohio.” For this fact sheet, and others on woodland and wildlife management, visit the Ohio Woodland Stewards website at woodlandstewards.osu.edu.

Nutritional Considerations

Each species of wildlife requires a specific quantity and quality of nutrition to thrive in their environment. White-tailed deer, for example, will consume a mixture of grain, forbs (flowering plants), woody browse (leaves and twigs), fungi, grasses, and legumes in various quantities during different seasons of the year. This is necessary for quality antler production, maximum fawn conception, and winter survival. Because wildlife has such a diverse set of food requirements, providing something different, such as mast crops (acorns and other nuts), apples, fruits, berries or other foodstuff not available in your area, may be the best attractant. Remember, too, the length of growing season for each crop can vary greatly, so choose carefully to make crops available for wildlife consumption if you want them producing at a specific time of the season.

Many wildlife biologists classify wildlife food into one of three food categories: primary, secondary, and starvation or filler. To be the most beneficial for wildlife, food plots should consist of primary food species such as clovers and other legumes, large or small grains or brassicas, etc.

• Primary foods are consumed by the animal when unlimited supplies of many food varieties exist.
• Secondary foods are eaten by the animal when preferred primary foods do not exist, but staple items are instead available and regularly consumed.
• Starvation/filler foods are eaten by the animal to keep from starving to death when primary and secondary foods do not exist in adequate quantities.

On average, white-tailed deer consume food at a rate of 3 to 4 percent of their body weight each day, on a dry matter basis, which means measuring weight of food eaten without the water content. This amounts to more than 2000-3000 pounds of dry matter per year. To give you an idea of this quantity, an average acre of alfalfa in Ohio produce 6000-8000 pounds of hay during the growing season. The age of each deer and the season of the year also dictate the amount of food consumed. While supplying high quality forage year-round is needed to maximize growth potential of bucks and does, peak forage consumption occurs at different times during the year. Bucks tend to increase food consumption during antler development, while a doe consumes more feed during lactation. More information about this may be found by searching online for the Purdue University publication FNR-194 about food plots for white-tailed deer.

For an adult deer to simply maintain body condition, a diet of foods containing 6 to 10 percent protein is required. However, for yearling growth and mature buck antler development, the minimum average should be16 percent protein. Adult female deer require a diet of 11 to 15 percent protein during late gestation, but her requirement for optimum milk production may increase to 22 to 24 percent. Fawns, after weaning, require 16 to 22 percent protein for maximum growth. Plants to include in food plots will be included in the second fact sheet in this series.

While you often hear about protein content various plants can provide in food plots, high quantities of carbohydrates are also required in the deer diet. Individual requirements vary seasonally and by the animal’s life stage. Energy is needed to regulate body temperature, to promote growth activity, reproduction and body maintenance. While it is difficult to establish specific energy minimum requirements, mature does and adult bucks require about 25 kilocalories of digestible energy per day for each pound of body weight. This requirement can be higher at specific times, such as peak lactation for the doe or after the breeding season for bucks that have lost a lot of weight. To promote breeding success, does and bucks instinctively feed heavily on food with high carbohydrate levels before rutting activities begin to purposely build up fat reserves, a process called lipogenesis. Items such as acorns, corn and other grain crops provide high levels of carbohydrates that provide energy.

Palatability of the food source(s) should also be considered when trying to provide nutrition for wildlife. Plants may be very high in protein, but if they do not taste good they may be consumed only as a last resort. Also, forage quality generally deteriorates as plants mature during their growing season so manipulation by clipping or bush-hogging grass and legume plants in a food plot at the proper time, before the plant completely matures, helps maintain vegetative, high quality, high protein foods for wildlife consumption.

The next two fact sheets in this series will focus specifically on what and when to plant in the food plot, as well as the equipment needed to plant and care for your food plot. The third fact sheet identifies management strategies to care for the food plot for sustainability and environmental health.

Expect the price of ammunition to rise substantially in 2024 as manufacturers dedicate materials to supply the war in Ukraine.

The first hint appeared Monday when Vista Outdoor announced the sale of its outdoor sporting products division to Czechoslovak Group for $1.91 billion. Vista Outdoor brands include Federal, CCI, Speer, Heavy Metal, Bushnell, Butler Creek, Hoppes, and Remington, which owns a large ammunition plant at Lonoke.

A source in the retail side of the Vista universe said that Czechoslovak Group wants the ammunition making capacity for the war in Ukraine. A Reuters article on Monday reinforced that opinion. It said, “Czech-based CSG has seen its revenue and profits rise since Russia’s invasion of Ukraine as demand for heavy military equipment and ammunition to ship to Ukraine soared.”

In December 2022, Czechoslovak Group also acquired 70% of Fiocchi Munizioni, which in November 2022 announced plans to build a firearms primer manufacturing facility in Little Rock. It is one of only six primer manufacturing facilities in the United States and is also the world’s only source for lead-free primers.

When interruptions occur in the firearms industry supply chain, the retail ammunition and ammunition reloading markets get pinched the hardest. Shortages are most noticeable for 9mm Luger, 40 S&W and 45 ACP, all common law enforcement and military cartridges. Accelerated production of ammo for military and law enforcement also causes shortages in the civilian market. This reduces availability of 380 Rem., and 22 LR, which manufacturers de-emphasize when producing high-demand military and police cartridges.

Robin Sharpless, executive vice-president of Redding Reloading Equipment, said that ammunition and reloading component shortages always accompany periods of political and social unrest.

When shortages are most acute, scarcity of factory loaded ammunition is equally acute. Scarcity triggers binge buying among some customers. Big box retailers sell an entire pallet of ammo to a few customers as soon as it leaves the truck. Moving inventory quickly is an objective in the retail paradigm. It doesn’t matter if it moves through three customers or thirty.

Sharpless said that during the coronavirus pandemic, he noticed the same behavior in the reloading components market.

“If you were watching Facebook forums, you’d see posts that would say, ‘Cabelas got so many primers, and I got them ALL!'” Sharpless said. “I talked to one of those guys. He loads a box of ammunition a year. He shoots a couple of deer a year, so that’s, what, half a box at most? But he’s got 3,000 years worth of primers. It’s an ‘I’ve got them and you don’t,’ thing. Those behaviors do hurt the market.

David Stone, president of Dong’s Sporting and Reloading Goods in Tulsa, noticed the same thing in the ammunition market.

“During the pandemic in 2020, there was no rimfire and no 9mm,” Stone said. “One guy told me he had a 50-gallon drum full of 22 rimfire shells. Never in your entire lifetime are you going to shoot all those. There are thousands of hoarders like that.”

Some retailers, like Fort Thompson’s Sporting Goods in Sherwood, flatten the supply and demand curve locally to a small extent by limiting the amount of ammo and components that individuals can buy at one time. Rationing ammo and components ensures that products are available to the maximum number of customers.

Rationing ammo is important during buying spree periods because it engenders trust, Stone said. Nothing frustrates a customer more than an unavailable product.

“I’m here every day and I watch my inventory level,” Stone said. “Big chains have got corporate people that watch stuff. They’ll ship a hundred boxes to a store. One person can walk in off the street and buy it all. I don’t do that.”

Even when ammo is available, reloading supplies often remain scarce for a long time. An associate at Fort Thompson Sporting Goods said it’s because ammo manufacturers consume the bulk of powder, primers, brass and bullets.

“A lot of the primers are staying with the manufacturers because they’re producing cartridges,” the associate said. “If they can’t get primers, they can’t produce cartridges either. Vista owns CCI and Federal, and Vista owns Remington. Hodgdon owns most of the powder brands, so they’ve all got the same issue. Powder is going to the manufacturers to produce the bullets. It’s all a chain deal. Reloaders get the leftovers.”

Sometimes, Stone said, it pays to play a hunch.

“I’m kind of a gambler,” Stone said. “When I saw a primer shortage coming, I gave somebody I’ve never done business with $150,000 up front for primers. When those came in, I gave them another $150,000. That’s a gamble that paid off.”

Even when demand stabilizes, non-endemic factors, like a trucker strike or dock worker strike, can cause a spike in demand and a dip in supply, Stone said.

“Let’s say there’s a trucker strike. There’s no freight coming in. That kind of kills everybody’s plan,” Stone said.

The solution, Stone said, is equivalent to retailer hoarding. He said he buys enough to get him through the lean times. When the supply reflows, he overstocks again.

“The last big shortage was 2013,” Stone said. “I hated it that I ran out, so I over bought. I’ve had primers since 2013. I bought too many then, and I’m glad I did. It’s already paid for.”

With a major supplier intending to devote production for the foreseeable future to a war that has no foreseeable end, the supply of hunting ammo could be tight for years. Stocking up now while supplies and prices are favorable might help see hunters through some upcoming lean times.

Q: I am an avid reader of Bowhunter Magazine, and I look forward to each issue and the information and hunting stories you and the other writers contribute! I am planning an elk hunt in Montana with my brother, nephew, and close friend. Could you make some recommendations on arrow/broadhead choices for the hunt? Scott Cool, via e-mail

A: Thanks for your e-mail. First, let’s establish the number-one goal of every elk hunter — a bilateral pneumothorax — otherwise known as a double-lung collapse. If you only puncture one lung on an elk, the odds of recovery are close to zero. That makes maximum, and hopefully two-hole, penetration more important than on just about any other North American big game animal.

There are many factors to consider: draw weight/length, arrow speed/weight (both kinetic energy and momentum), and broadhead construction. All of these factors are intertwined in their importance. If you shoot low poundage, or a short draw length, your arrow speed will be adversely affected, necessitating a heavier arrow and a broadhead designed for maximum penetration. Heavier draw weights and longer draw lengths make the other factors less critical, but they are still important.

Personally, I tend to vary my arrow weight according to the species I am hunting. I may want a flatter trajectory for antelope, deer, or caribou, but for a very tough animal like an elk, I prefer an arrow in the 500-grain range. I have a 30.5-inch draw, and I typically shoot 67 pounds. Because this setup delivers plenty of energy and momentum, I can shoot most any quality broadhead from fixed blades to heavily built mechanicals like the Rage Trypan and not worry about penetration.

We don’t have the space to get into all the physics, and there is plenty of dispute among bowhunters on this topic, but without knowing your specifics I would recommend an arrow weighing at least 450 grains (total arrow/broadhead) for elk. An arrow’s front of center (FOC) is also important to penetration, and I strive for at least 12 to 13 percent or more.

Yes, if your draw weight and arrow speed are exceptional (well over 300 fps), you might get by with a lighter, flatter arrow, but I still wouldn’t go below 400 grains under any circumstances. Will it work, yes, but if the shot is in any way marginal, a lighter arrow will not likely bail you out. If your draw weight and arrow speed is average (under 280 fps), your total arrow weight should go up. I know that sounds counterintuitive, but consider the recurve archer who is shooting only 190 to 200 fps and using arrows of 600 grains and up. They certainly don’t go down in arrow weight. In almost any scenario, a heavier arrow will penetrate better on a live animal. And no test medium can replicate the real thing.

Broadhead design does matter, but mostly in a basic sense. If you start with a well-tuned bow, there is no question the best penetrating broadhead is a cut-on-contact, fixed two-blade design like a Muzzy Phantom, Magnus Stinger, or Iron Will broadhead. A fixed-blade broadhead and certain mechanical heads are next, and then comes the really wide-cut mechanical broadheads. If you hope to drive a two-inch-wide broadhead completely through an elk, you had better have some energy and a heavy arrow behind it. If you do, it’s devastating.

By now, you can see that all these factors are codependent, which is why there is so much debate. If you’re an average archer shooting 65 pounds at a 28-inch draw, I would shoot an arrow/broadhead combo that weighs around 475 grains (with decent FOC), and a strong, super-sharp broadhead that gives you confidence. Then hunt your way close and drive it through both lungs. Good luck.

If you’ve been shooting for a while, you’ve probably heard the best shooters talk about dry-fire training.

Dry fire training is a practice technique that simulates shooting and manipulating a firearm without using live ammunition. Instead, shooters use an unloaded gun to safely practice their shooting skills virtually anywhere without the expense, noise, and hazards associated with using live rounds.

Dry fire training is important for gun enthusiasts because it helps them become more comfortable, confident, and competent with their firearms while developing ‘muscle memory’ and refining their skills. Those who dry fire often see a dramatic improvement in accuracy, faster shooting speeds, and better overall performance in real-world shooting scenarios.

While many agree dry fire practice is an essential component of any training regimen, many people find dry fire training boring. Shooters rather shoot for live ammo at a range.

This is where dry fire training systems come into the picture.

They can make dry fire practice more efficient, effective, and fun, by providing realistic simulations, immediate feedback, and a wider variety of training scenarios than just using an unloaded gun.

Shooting is a perishable skill, so making dry practice enjoyable helps encourage people to continue practicing.

We’ve used all of the major dry fire training systems in the market, which we’ll be sharing with you later in this article.

But, let’s start with the best dry fire training systems based on our extensive testing.

Let’s get to it…

Top 10 Dry Fire Training Systems You Need to Try

We’ve tried every major dry-fire training tool on the market, and our cadre thinks the following training aids are the best overall.

Each product has its pros and cons that address one or more specific skill sets. Not one product on the market does it all, but each one will help make you a better shooter.

That said, before getting to the list, here are our recommendations based on common use cases and categories:

• Best Overall: Mantis X10 Elite and the Mantis Laser Academy

• Best for AR-15s: Mantis Blackbeard X

• Best for Beginners: SIRT Pistol and Dummy Rounds

• Best for Simulating Recoil: Laser Ammo’s Recoiled Enabled Pistols (if you want to use a training gun) and Coolfire Trainer (for your own gun)

Now, here’s the list of the best dry fire training systems with their key features and benefits.

How Laser-Based Dry Fire Training Systems Can Improve Your Shooting Skills

In our top 10 list, you’ll find quite a few laser-based dry-fire training systems.

They use a laser-emitting cartridge or a laser integrated into a dedicated training gun. When the trigger is squeezed, the laser device emits a brief red, green, or IR laser beam. This laser beam simulates the path of a real bullet and provides instant visual feedback on shot placement and accuracy.

There are two main parts to a common laser-based dry-fire training system:

1. Laser Cartridge or Training Gun: The laser cartridge is a small device inserted into a real firearm’s chamber or attached to the end of specific training gun barrels. Alternatively, some systems use dedicated training guns with integrated lasers, often replicating real firearms’ size, weight, and feel for a more realistic experience.
2. Target or Sensor System: The target can be a simple paper target, reflective stickers, or an electronic sensor system that detects the laser beam when it hits. Some electronic sensor systems can connect to a computer, smartphone, or tablet and use special software to track shot placement, timing, and other performance metrics, providing detailed feedback to the user.

Advantages of Using a Laser-Based Dry-Fire Training System

• Safety: Laser-based systems provide a safe way to practice shooting skills without risking accidental discharge or injury because they don’t shoot a projectile.

• Cost-Effective: Practicing with a laser-based system eliminates the need for purchasing live ammunition, which can be expensive, making it a more cost-effective alternative to live fire training.

• Convenience: Laser-based training systems can be used in various indoor settings, allowing gun owners to practice their shooting skills anytime and anywhere without needing a shooting range.

• Realistic Simulation: Many laser-based systems replicate the size, weight, and feel of real firearms, providing a realistic experience.

• Immediate Feedback: Laser-based systems offer instant visual feedback on shot placement, helping shooters identify areas for improvement. Some systems also provide additional performance metrics through connected software.

• Versatility: Laser-based systems can be used with various firearms and in various training scenarios.

Disadvantages of Using a Laser-Based Dry-Fire Training System

• Lack of Recoil: Most laser-based systems do not simulate the recoil experienced when firing live ammunition, which may limit the development of specific shooting skills that require managing recoil effectively.

• Initial Cost: While laser-based systems save money on ammunition in the long run, they can have a higher upfront cost than just using an unloaded gun for dry fire practice.

• Compatibility: Some laser cartridges are designed for specific calibers, meaning users with multiple firearms may need to purchase different laser cartridges or adapters to practice with each gun. In addition, some laser cartridges may not work with specific laser targets.

• Technical Issues: Electronic sensor systems and related software may occasionally experience technical issues or glitches, which could impact training sessions.

Improve Your Shooting Accuracy with These Computer-Based Dry Fire Training Systems

As referenced in the previous section, some laser training systems work with specialized software applications. Combined with laser-emitting devices or sensors, these applications are computer-based dry-fire training systems that provide detailed feedback on your shooting performance.

Computer-based dry-fire training tools fall into two major categories.

1. Laser Cartridges or Training Guns Combined with Camera System Software: As discussed above, when a shooter fires a laser beam from a laser cartridge or laser training gun, a computer or smartphone captures the laser’s impact point on a target. The camera system sends the captured data to a connected computer, smartphone, or tablet running specialized dry-fire training software. This software processes the data, tracks shot placement, timing, and other performance metrics, providing real-time feedback to the shooter.
2. Sensors Attached to Firearms: Another option uses sensors attached to a firearm that detect the movement of a gun, such as with the Mantis X10 Elite. Sensors collect hundreds, if not thousands, of data points, which computer software analyzes. The software offers various features for analysis, such as displaying shot groupings, calculating accuracy scores, and identifying patterns or areas for improvement. Users can track their progress over time and adjust their training routine based on the feedback provided by the software.

Advantages of Computer-Based Dry-Fire Training Systems

Like laser-based systems, computer-based dry-fire tools offer safety, cost-effectiveness, convenience, real-time feedback, and versatility.

Beyond that, computer-based dry-fire systems provide more detailed analysis and feedback on performance.

Moreover, they provide better progress-tracking features. Shooters can track their progress over time, allowing them to analyze their performance and improvement trends.

Lastly, several software applications will provide you with specific pointers based on areas you need to improve, sometimes offering video instruction, too.

Disadvantages of Computer-Based Dry-Fire Training Systems

Dry-fire training systems, like laser-based tools, can have a high initial cost, lack recoil, and may have compatibility and technical issues.

In addition, there can be a learning curve to using software. Some shooters may find setting up and using a computer-based system challenging, especially if they are not tech-savvy.

Recoil Systems: The Secret Weapon for Effective Dry Fire Training

If you’re serious about firearms training and dry fire, you’ll likely use a recoil-enabled dry fire pistol at some point.

They function a lot like laser pistols, but they also simulate the recoil of a real firearm during dry-fire training, providing a more realistic experience and helping users develop the necessary skills to manage recoil effectively. These systems can either be standalone training guns or attachments that can be added to a real firearm.

Typically, the recoil simulation mechanism relies on compressed gas, such as CO2 or gas, that creates a force that pushes the slide backward, mimicking the recoil experienced during live fire.

Airsoft pistols that have been converted to shoot a laser with every trigger pull are the most common option in the market. They are replicas of real firearms in design and weight, so everything will feel the same when you practice while saving your actual firearm from wear and tear. We like and recommend Laser Ammo’s Recoil Enabled Pistols.

If you want to use your own pistol instead of an airsoft pistol, a great option is the Cool Fire Trainer. It replaces your live fire barrel inside your real pistol, and each trigger squeeze will activate a CO2-powered mechanism to cycle your pistol’s slide and provide recoil (while emitting a laser with each shot).

Advantages of Recoil Systems

The big advantage is the ability to simulate recoil.

One of the challenges to proper dry fire training, in general, is for shooters to use the same technique and grip pressures they would when firing a real gun with live ammo.

When a shooter fires live ammo, they tend to grip harder because of the little explosion in their hands. This is needed to help control the gun.

For the average shooter, during dry fire drills, they may not have a proper grip. They likely aren’t gripping their gun hard enough with the same consistent pressure applied during live fire, which can engrain bad habits during one’s dry fire session.

Using a recoil-enabled pistol will provide some blowback, reminding the shooter to grip their gun as if using a real gun.

In addition, the simulated recoil will make one’s sights or red dot lift/move as if they were shooting live ammo. The shooter must learn to manage this blowback so that their sights return to their target efficiently and effectively, so they can take follow-up shots quickly.

Lastly, recoil systems allow users to practice their trigger control, specifically resetting and prepping their triggers as they would during live fire.

Disadvantages of Recoil Systems

Although recoil-enabled dry-fire pistols provide blowback, the recoil does not match the amount of force applied by ‘real’ recoil.

The recoil impulse from compressed gas is better than nothing and serves as a reminder to grip a firearm properly, but shooters must understand that they need to invest ample time in shooting live ammo to learn how to manage recoil.

Another disadvantage is that any training tool that uses compress gas to simulate recoil must be ‘kept warm’ to use for long periods of time.

For example, airsoft pistols typically use magazines filled with green gas. Initially, a shooter might be able to take 50 to 60 rapid-fire shots before having to refill the magazine.

When one refills the magazine with green gas, they’ll notice it’s cold. The colder the magazine, or wherever compressed gas is being stored, the fewer shots one will be able to take before having to refill the gas again.

Specialized Training Tools That Will Take Your Shooting Skills to the Next Level

Specialized dry-fire training tools are designed to help gun enthusiasts improve specific shooting skills and techniques without using live ammunition. These tools can be used independently or with other dry-fire training systems to enhance the overall training experience.

While some specialized training tools overlap with the preceding categories, specialized tools can offer more focused and in-depth training around a specific skill set or skill sets.

There are several dry fire training systems in our top 10 list above that fall into this category that we highly recommend, namely:

• The DryFireMag: An automatic pistol trigger resetting magazine.

• Laser Ammo’s Smokeless Range 2.0: A virtual range that you can use indoors.

• Laser Ammo’s Reactive Laser Targets: Great, versatile targets to use with all major laser cartridges and laser firearms.

• Dummy Rounds: They are low-cost and provide great training value, especially for beginners.

Are Dry Fire Systems Worth It?

You’re reading this article because you likely understand the value of dry-fire practice. But, you might wonder if these training aids are worth the money.

Dry fire training systems offer many benefits for shooters looking to improve their skills and maintain proficiency without using live ammunition. Here are some of the key features and benefits:

1. Safe Practice: Dry fire training eliminates the need for live ammunition, allowing you to practice shooting skills safely at home or in other non-range environments without the risk of accidental discharge or injury.

2. Cost Savings: Dry fire training systems do not require live ammunition, which can be expensive, especially for regular practice sessions. By eliminating this expense, you can save money while still honing your skills.

3. Convenience: With dry fire training systems, you can practice at your own pace and in the comfort of your home or any suitable space. This eliminates the need to travel to a shooting range and allows for more flexible practice sessions.

4. Real-time Feedback: Many dry-fire training systems provide instant feedback on shot placement, accuracy, and speed, allowing you to identify areas for improvement and adjust your technique more effectively than with traditional dry-fire practice.

5. Customizable Training: Dry fire training systems often include a variety of drills and scenarios designed to improve specific shooting skills. This allows users to tailor their practice sessions to focus on the skills they want to develop.

6. Eco-friendly: Since dry fire training systems do not use live ammunition, they are an environmentally friendly option for practicing shooting skills, reducing lead pollution and waste associated with spent casings.

7. Reduced Wear and Tear: Dry fire training typically causes less wear and tear on your firearm compared to live-fire training. This can help extend the life of your firearm and reduce maintenance costs. For example, when using recoil-enabled pistols, I prefer using airsoft replicas such as those from Laser Ammo.

Tips for Making the Most Out of Your Dry Fire Practice

Whether or not you use any of the products on our list or just an unloaded firearm when dry firing, keep these tips in mind to make the most out of your practice sessions.

1. Have a plan: Before starting your dry fire practice, determine what specific skills you want to focus on, such as trigger control, drawing from a holster, or target transitions. Having clear goals will help you concentrate on the areas that need improvement.

2. Create a dedicated practice space: Designate a specific area in your home or another indoor location for dry fire training. Ensure it’s free from distractions and has enough space for you to perform various drills comfortably.

3. Use a ‘real’ grip: Maintain the exact grip and stance you use during live-fire training to ensure consistency and build muscle memory.

4. Incorporate training aids: Utilize dry-fire training tools, such as the ones we’ve recommended in this article, to enhance your practice session and receive real-time feedback on your performance.

5. Focus on trigger control: Pay close attention to your trigger pull, ensuring a smooth and consistent press without disturbing your iron sights or red dot. This will help improve your accuracy during live-fire sessions.

6. Make dry fire a habit: Establish a regular dry fire training schedule to maintain and improve your shooting skills. Consistent practice is essential to getting better fast. In our War Room community, we conducted a challenge to have members dry fire every day for a month. After the challenge, dry firing became a habit.

7. Mix up your drills and exercises: Vary your drills, exercises, and scenarios to keep your training sessions engaging and challenging. This will help you develop a well-rounded skill set and prevent boredom during practice.

8. Record your progress: Keep track of your performance and improvements over time to stay motivated and identify areas that may require additional focus.

Here’s a video that will help make your dry fire training more realistic.

By following these tips, you can maximize the effectiveness of your dry fire training sessions and continually improve your shooting skills.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does dry firing damage a gun?

Dry firing generally does not cause damage to centerfire guns. These firearms are designed to withstand the impact of the firing pin hitting the chamber without a cartridge in place.

However, for rimfire guns like .22 caliber models, repeated dry firing can potentially cause damage because the firing pin in these guns may strike the edge of the chamber, causing it to degrade over time.

How much should you dry fire per day?

There is no minimum or maximum number of times a day. It will all depend on your time and how much you can remain focused during your practice sessions.

Many serious shooters dry fire at least 15-30 minutes a day, 3-5 times a week. Professional shooters may dry fire daily and for 30 or more minutes each session.

The key is to be consistent, depending on your time and attention span. If you can only dry fire once a week, then be consistent.

Regarding the session length, you can keep going as long as your technique doesn’t get sloppy. If this happens, it’s a good indicator that you should stop for the day.

Can dry fire training improve my shooting?

It absolutely can! I don’t understand those who say they don’t want to dry fire or that they only shoot live ammunition.

The best shooters in the world all dry fire. It allows you to work on practically everything you can when shooting live rounds, except recoil management.

Do I need any special equipment for dry fire training?

Not at all. You can use an unloaded firearm if you want.

That said, I highly recommend using different training tools like the ones on our list.

They will make practice more enjoyable and help you improve faster, especially for beginner to intermediate shooters.

Is dry fire practice effective for both beginners and experienced shooters?

Absolutely. Regardless of your skill level, dry fire practice allows you to get in countless repetitions for free, practically anywhere.

If you use proper technique, each perfect rep will help you improve and burn your movements into your subconscious.

Can dry fire training replace live fire training?

You can accomplish a lot with dry fire training alone, but it will never replace live fire training, regardless of using a laser pistol with an integrated recoil system.

Technology has gone a long way to simulating recoil using compressed gas, but it isn’t the same as live fire when it comes to learning and improving recoil management.

In addition, for a lot of shooters shooting live ammo, the sound of a gun going off (i.e. the bang) and the face that they are using actual ammo can cause stress and anxiety. This can’t really be replicated during dry fire, so shooters need to practice at a live range, too.

Though dry fire training can’t replace live fire training, they complement each other, and serious shooters will do both.

Get Started with the Best Dry Fire Training Systems Today

The best shooters in the world will agree. Dry practice will make you a better shooter.

But, many people find it boring. Dry fire training systems can help make practice fun while helping you improve faster.

We’ve tried practically every major dry fire product, but the list we provided are the best. Check them out and start practicing!

If we left out a major tool that you’ve used, let us know in the comments section below.

Our Comprehensive List of the Dry Fire Training Tools We’ve Used

In coming up with our list of the top dry fire training products, we went through a lot of different tools. Here the the other popular training aids we tested.