Early on in life, I learned the value of a quality tripod. Originally a photographer by trade, I knew even the slightest movement in the wrong conditions would ruin a shot. As I learned to shoot rifles from tripods, especially at extended ranges, I found the same to be true. Tripods can level the playing field, making difficult shots in awkward positions a lot more manageable. They’re not limited to tradition front-rifle support, but can be used as rear supplementary support as well. When looking at tripods for shooting, I personally have a few “must haves,” as well as a few, “prefer to haves.” Anything more is icing on the cake.

Must-Haves

• Stout legs – Strong legs and stiff legs often go hand-in-hand. It needs to support my rifle and any weight I put onto it while stabilizing my shot.
• Easy adjustments – Holding a rifle for a precise shot is enough to think about. I want knobs, levers, and dials I can quickly operate one-handed without stressing.
• Counterweight point – Every tripod I tested for this write-up features one, most often in the form of a hook or loop located directly under the head. To make my shot more stable, I can tie off to heavy objects, or even myself if need be.
• Multiple leg angles – again, all tripods tested featured three angle positions. These can be used in any combination for variations of prone, kneeling, and standing shots.
• Big rubber feet – rubber is a shock absorber, and as such, rubber feet on the ground help absorb and distribute recoil.
• ARCA-Swiss style clamps – Clamps to secure the 1.5-inch wide dovetail rails provide fast and secure mounting options for rifles. There are a few variations of it on the market, but at its core, it is the gold standard for rifle mounting.

Prefer-to-Haves

• Vented hinges – At the top of the legs, vent holes make deployment of the legs fast and worry-free.
• Spring-loaded ratcheting angle locks – Again, my preference. It’s one less thing I have to think about when changing shooting positions quickly.
• Bubble levels – Most every rifle I own has a bubble on the scope or action itself, but having one more to reference never hurts.

Those aren’t exhaustive lists, but they’re there to be thought provoking when looking for your next shooting support. Without further ado, let’s get into 5 of the best shooting tripods of the year.

Really Right Stuff S.O.A.R. TFCT 34L with Anvil 30 ARC

RRS began as a photography equipment company in 1990, designing and creating more consistent and well-thought-out quick-release plates, tripods, and other accessories. Their Sport Optics and Rifle division has kept ahead of the curve with highly engineered, durable, and lightweight tripods capable of supporting even the heaviest of rifle platforms. Every single part of each tripod is designed, made, and hand-assembled right here in the USA.

Their compact but lightweight Anvil-30 ARC head is both ergonomic and feature packed. It has seen a few iterations over the last few years. The most up-to date version still features RRS’s easy to use lever-release, but it is now repositionable for tailoring to your preference. It also features the all-new R-Lock System. The R-lock provides supplemental security to your rifle mount in the form of a pin that locks into holes machined along the underside of RRS’s quick-release ARCA-Swiss Style plates. Even if you have ARCA plates without holes for the pin, the rail clamp can still be used in its traditional configuration. The newest ARC head also features toolless tension adjustment for the Patent-pending dual-rail style clamp. This allows you to set the jaws to the appropriate tension needed for your ARCA or Picatinny rails. Lastly, the throw lever now features a paddle style safety lock to prevent accidental release of the clamp.

As for the legs, The US-made carbon fiber legs are incredibly stout, even for their comfortably narrow dimensions. Because of the way the legs are offset in their hinges, they are able to fold in nice and tight to each other, keeping their packing dimensions to a minimum. The hinges are also vented, preventing airlock when deploying and collapsing the legs. This particular model, the TCFT 34L with the Anvil 30 ARC, extends to over six feet tall at its highest point, and can support anywear from 45 to 85lbs, depending on how high you extend its four sections. Even at its tallest, 45lbs is generous, and will cover most heavy long range platforms. The legs have three adjustable positions with ratcheting locks that automatically engage when adjusting from horizontal to vertical positions. The TFCT 34-L with Anvil-30 ARC head comes in with an MSRP of $1,580.00, making it the highest-priced option on our list.

Two-Vets Sporting Goods – Recon V2 with 55mm Dual Tension Ballhead and Area 419 Arcalock Clamp

The first word that comes to mind when I see the Recon V2 is clean. The Recon V2 brings in a lot of features you should expect to find in premium carbon fiber tripods, at a more mid-level price point. The 38mm main tube is made of a stout and tightly woven carbon fiber, while the center section, hinges, and twist locks are all CNC machined from high strength aluminum. The grooved aluminum twist locks only require a quarter turn to loosen and retighten, making for fast and solid adjustments in the field. The hinge locks are able to ratchet and can lock out at 3 angles, giving you shots anywhere from prone to fully standing. At its full height, the Recon V2 with the 55mm Ballhead is just a couple inches shy of six feet tall, making standing shots a breeze, even at high angles.

The center section has been narrowed for the V2, giving a minimal profile when legs are collapsed against each other. The hinges are vented to allow for easy deployment and compression of the leg sections. The center section also features a rubber-tipped set screw, which lets the user snug it into whatever head they decide to use, eliminating the need for any sort of threadlock on the ⅜”-16 main screw. They also feature multiple ¼”-20 threaded holes around the center section and hinges for accessory mounting. The wide rubber feet provide support and stability in most environments, but when needed, simply unscrew the feet to reveal a steel spike in each. Spinning the threaded spikes from the inside to the outside gives you even more traction in soft terrain. The price of the Recon V2 alone is $605.00.

As for the head itself, the 55mm ballhead features a dual-tension system for ball adjustments. Set the smaller of the knobs to the level of tension you like, then use the large main knob to lock and unlock the head quickly. The third small knob on the tripod allows the user to loosen and tighten the panning portion of the head, giving glass-smooth horizontal movement. The Area 419 Arcalock Clamp features three steel pins that lock into Area 419 Arcalock scalloped rails. This pin/scallop combo prevents unwanted movement of the rifle in addition to the friction tension of the clamp. If you prefer to run smooth sided ARCA rail, this isn’t a problem. A set screw under each pin can be backed out, and the pins removed. Simply unwinding the oversized knob loosens the spring-loaded clamp and allows for ease of movement. The knob isn’t as fast as a throw lever, but does allow the user to adjust the tension in the ARCA plate exactly where they want it. The price of the ballhead in that configuration is $235.00. Combined with the price of the tripod, tax included, the full setup can be gotten right around $900.

Despite being a relatively new company, Two Vets has come out swinging with a wide product line covering the bases from competition to hunting. Their customer service has, in my experience been top-notch, and I often found my questions being answered by the owner of the company himself. They’re always working to improve their products and have a few exciting plans for 2024.

BOG Deathgrip Infinite

The new Deathgrip Infinite from BOG comes down from their long line of affordable, thought-out hunting products. This latest model contains a number of features that make it better than ever. They started by separating the Deathgrip Clamp from the head, and put an ARCA-Swiss style plate on the bottom. The head itself now has an adjustable ARCA compatible clamp, making swaps between spotting scopes, cameras, and the Deathgrip head itself a breeze. That ARCA clamp tops a lined socket which tilts and rotates freely on the 45mm Aluminum ballhead. The polymer lining keeps the movements both smooth and quiet.

The Deathgrip Ultralite head is made from magnesium to remain lightweight but strong. It weighs less than 1lb, and features a patent-pending dual jaw clamp with rubber inserts to give you a secure, yet non-marring hold on your rifle stock. Clamping adjustments are made with a single oversized, rubberized knob. The dual jaw clamps move quickly, and keep the rifle centered over the tripod, ensuring the best balance. The ARCA-Swiss style plate is securely mounted on the bottom by four steel screws and two indexing pins. Testing the Deathgrip on different platforms, I didn’t have a single rifle it wouldn’t hold securely. From my heaviest AR-10s, to my lightest bolt actions, the clamp held solid through the firing cycle time and again. The jaws open to almost 2.5”, and can tighten to just under 1.3”. The Ballhead itself features overmolded knobs that are large enough to easily manipulate with or without gloves. The ARCA clamp itself can open more than wide enough to accommodate not only the Deathgrip head, but most any ARCA-style rail on the market.

Utilizing lighter materials like Magnesium and Carbon Fiber, BOG was able to drop the weight of the tripod with Deathgrip head to only 6.5lbs. Without the Deathgrip, the carbon fiber tripod comes in under six pounds. Twist locks on the stout carbon fiber legs are fast and easy to use, thanks to being rubberized. Steel spikes stored in the rubber feet are out of the way when you don’t need them, but easy enough to install when you do. The leg hinges feature three settings to adjust them to 20, 45, or 85 degrees. When splayed out to 85 degrees, shots can easily be taken in the prone. The tripod also features a retention strap to keep the legs held together when in transit. The kit comes with a soft carrying case, and an additional ARCA plate for optics.

Fat Boy Tripods Traverse Three Section with Invert60 Ballhead

The Fat Boy Traverse tripod with their Invert60 Ballhead is flashy to say the least. The carbon fiber weave looks like snake skin, and the mossy green anodizing on the upper section stands out. The legs are a stout 42.5mm, and collapsed with the Invert60 Ballhead, it stands 32 inches tall at the ARCA Clamp. This is our bulkiest tripod tested, and with a total weight of 7lbs 11.5oz, it is also our heaviest. The legs have little to no flex, and when folded, integrated stops in the hinge prevent the legs from crossing over in the way of each other.

The hinges feature similar ratcheting technology we saw in a couple previous models, with the three leg positions allowing for shots anywhere from prone to standing. The center section is wider than previous models, and the ⅜”-16 threaded top platform can be swapped out for an aftermarket bowl adapter and 75mm leveling base. The hinges and center section also feature ¼”-20 threaded holes for mounting accessories. The rubberized twist locks on the legs require only a quarter of a turn to loosen or tighten, and the rubber feet feature integrated steel spikes. The spikes stay out of the way, but can be accessed by extending the shortest leg, then spinning the rubber foot up to expose the spike.

The Invert60 Ball Head features a combination picatinny and ARCA rail clamp with an adjustable quick throw lever to loosen or tighten onto your rail of choice. One single rubberized knob controls tension on the 60mm ball head. The “Invert” name comes from the ball itself being mounted to the tripod, and the socket moving around it, opposite of a typical ball head. The grippy knob doesn’t take much of a rotation at all to go from very tight, to quite loose. This makes on the fly adjustments quick, and since the mount is inverted, the adjustment knob stays in the same spot relative to the rifle, making panning and tilting simultaneously a one-stop shop. The threaded plate under the ball features a set screw to prevent the head from coming loose.

The rubberized knobs and twist locks all feature aggressive texturing, ensuring ease of operation in any condition. When fully extended, the three-section legs bring the Invert60 ARCA clamp to 69 inches off the ground. While this option may be a bit big and heavy for backcountry hunts, it is sure to be a solid platform for predator hunting, competition, and regular range day shenanigans. Fat Boy offers the Traverse three section for $750.00, and the Invert60 Ball Head for $375.00, bringing the total cost for this setup to $1,125.00 plus tax.

Vortex Radian Carbon Fiber Tripod + Ballhead

The design of the Radian Carbon tripod from Vortex is very reminiscent of my early photography days using Leofoto tripods and heads. Dimensions, shape, even placement of levers and knobs was very familiar. After offering optic-specific tripods in the past, Vortex has taken the dive into purpose-built, heavy duty shooting tripods. This model is offered as a complete package with your choice of a ball head or a leveling head. I chose the ball head for this review. Like their other products, the Radian Carbon tripod is covered under Vortex’s VIP Warranty. In the package is the set of legs, the head of your choice, a counterweight hook, soft case, ARCA plate for optics, stainless steel spike feet, and all tools and manuals you will need to get started and maintain your tripod.

The legs are stiff, with the main tube having a diameter of 36mm. When all four sections are fully extended, the tripod stands 67 inches at the ARCA clamp on the ball head. The rubber feet must be fully spun off before spinning on the spike feet. The twist locks only require a quarter turn, and the rubberized knob is generously sized, giving sure grip in any conditions. The center section has a metal loop for a sling, as well as a bubble to check level of the legs themselves. I would be remiss if I didn’t say I found myself wanting with some of the design on this tripod. The hinges for the legs are not vented, so I find myself pulling each section to fully extend it. This is a bit cumbersome when speed is of the essence. The hinge locks also do not ratchet in. It was an extra step I needed to take to ensure my legs would be locked out at the position of my choice. It’s not a make or break of course, but I definitely was expecting it as a premium tripod option.

The 55mm ball head features the three knob tension system I spoke about earlier in this review. Two for the ball, and one for the pan. The knobs are aggressively textured and easy to manipulate, despite not being rubberized. The ARCA clamp itself features a twist knob for securing the ARCA plates, and has its own small bubble level, ensuring you can keep the ball level. The maximum load of the tripod with that head is 55lbs. In this configuration, it comes in at a hefty 7lbs, 2.4oz. At it’s widest point when folded, the tripod is 6 inches in diameter, but the feet can come together at the bottom, so it still packs a bit easier than if the legs went straight out. The Vortex name and warranty carry a lot of weight, and despite my misgivings, it is still a solid option. For the premium price (MSRP $1,299.00), I do wish it had a few more of those features that I’ve really found make shooting from a tripod more pleasant.

Final Thoughts

When considering these five models, I looked for what was both solid and fast. Whether hunting or competing, speed matters. The fastest head to operate was by far the Anvil 30 ARC from RRS. The whole RRS setup was the lightest too, and as such, most versatile of the models tested. It’s also the most tested and fielded of any of the above models. The price for me, however, was a breaking point. I personally found myself drawn to the Recon V2 from Two Vets Sporting goods. Whether shooting rifles or even photos, it has been, more times than not, the one I reach for. In my time spent with it, it punched well above the price point at which it is offered. The Deathgrip Infinite Carbon Fiber from BOG was most budget friendly option. It comes with the tools needed to run any rifle, whether it had a rail or not. This past deer season, my good friend was due for neck surgery and couldn’t physically hold up his rifle. I sent this tripod with him for the season, and it gave him the support he needed to take the shot when it mattered. BOG built this one with a purpose. Speaking of dedicated purpose, the big and heavy Traverse from Fat Boy begs to be run in competition or out on a coyote hunt. The Vortex Radian Carbon, while a bit hefty, still finds a home in the worlds of competition and hunting.

These I tested are only a small batch of the wide range of tripods on the market. From even bigger competition models to the smallest and lightest backcountry tripods, there is sure to be one that fits your needs at the price point you want to work with. If you can try one before you buy one, even better. Whether hunting or competing, be sure you have the tools you need to make the shot count when it matters.

Choosing hunting boots can be a challenge, especially if you’re pressed for time. After all, there are many factors to consider before lacing up a pair of boots, whether it’s for a hunt through rugged terrain or a spring turkey hunt in a field. We’re here to help you narrow down the possibilities with recommendations for boots suited to various purposes. Each has been put to the test in the field. Consider this your one-stop guide for picking out your next pair of hunting boots.

Best Overall Hunting Boot:

Irish Setter Boots Vaprtrek – See Price on Amazon

Vaprtrek boots with a height of eight inches are offered by Irish Setter Boots in both men’s and women’s sizes. After years of using both men’s and women’s Vaprtreks, I can safely say they’re equally comfortable, durable and useful. These boots have 400-gram Primaloft insulation to help keep feet warm—but not too warm. They are made using full-grain leather and ArmaTec XT, an abrasion-resistant, tough material. The boots have a Mossy Oak Break Up Country camouflage exterior to reduce the risk of game animals catching glimpses of movement.

These are the boots to get when you want durable yet fairly lightweight boots for spring or fall hunts. They have an exceptionally long life, even for those of us who hunt heavily. I’ve been so impressed by these boots that I now have a pair in each truck, in the mud room and on my boot rack. They are that versatile and dependable.

Most Versatile Hunting Boots (Best Hunting Boots for multiple terrains)

Kenetrek Mountain Extreme 400 ($514.95) and Kenetrek Mountain Extreme 1000 ($534.95)

This boot style provides a bit of a “two-fer” because it covers both the 400-gram and 1000-gram Thinsulate boots. There’s simply no better boot for truly cold weather or challenging mountain hunts than the Kenetrek Mountain Extremes. These boots are more rigid than lighter-weight boots that are meant for less strenuous hunts. Their rigidity and impressive toughness is very useful when you’re chasing predators or mountain goats. The 400-gram boot is, of course, a bit lighter and not as toasty as the 1000-gram version. However, each has its purpose depending on the temperatures you’re facing.

When you pair the Mountain Extreme with Kenetrek’s Ultimate Liner Lightweight Over-the-Calf Sock, (with or without a heavier boot sock over it), you have the perfect combination for difficult winter hunts. Features of the Kenetrek Mountain Extreme include 10-inch uppers with a one-piece vamp construction tongue. That means there aren’t openings where water or snow can get in. They have double- and even triple-stitching at high-stress points and K-Talon outsoles. Yes, these are heavier boots on your feet than some others, but they are well worth that facet when you’re braving snow and ice. While others in your hunt team are suffering, your feet will be doing great. These boots are made in Italy and they last for quite some time.

Most Comfortable Hunting Boot

Dryshod Evalusion Hi Super Lightweight ($174.95)

The Dryshod Evalusion Hi Super Lightweight Hunting Boot gets the top pick for the most comfortable hunting boot on the market. They have a Dureva technology/compound that eliminates the need for a secondary rubber sole and provides extreme comfort in most any situation. Aside from comfortable it is also an extremely quiet boot due to their multi-lug tread resulting in silent flexing and bending when curving over the ground’s elements. The lugs provide good traction, but are not too aggressive that they pick up and retain mud. This boot maximizes air circulation and prevents moisture builup with its Densoprene Foam that both keeps your foot warm and keeps moisture out.

For those of us who like a rubber boot for the beginning of white tail hunting season, this one comes out on top for several reasons. The insole has a good, supportive arch, making them comfortable to walk long distances without having sore arches. Their 16-inch height makes it easy to ford wet areas or even small streams. The outsole design is wide, giving you a firm support underfoot, and helping to prevent ankle twists when traversing rugged ground. The wide heel sole provides great stability, plus gives a convenient point to grab when you are trying to kick off the boots. The design of the boot upper helps to keep your calf area warm, which in turn keeps your lower foot warm. Yet the shape of the upper hugs your calf just enough to not have the boot “slap” against your shin and back of your calf while walking, and allows a hunter to let rain pants come down over the outside of the boot, rather than tuck them into the upper. Experience has shown they are comfortable in temperatures from 30’s to 60’s. They run true to size, I would recommend buying a half size larger to allow for the use of a good wool sock.

The Dryshod Evalusion comes in Super Lightweight Ankle length and Hi in brown, black, camo, and more. Prices vary from $129.95-$192.39 depending on color and sizing options. Dryshod is known for dependability and durability and this shoe should withstand the test of time and hours spent walking.

Aside from dry, warm, comfortable, and breathable – the shoe is also extremely light making it an easy walk. What keeps it from being best overall is just simply preference. We haven’t found a non-lace shoe that stands up to lace shoes when it comes to those on the go but from a slip-on option this shoe rises to the top.

Best Unisex Hunting Boots and for snaky terrain:

Rocky Prolight Hunting Waterproof Snake Boot ($134.95)

Snake boots are more of an issue in the southern part of the country, but these boots prove useful anywhere across the nation.

The Rocky Prolight Hunting Waterproof Snake Boot is designed for unisex wear. It spans sizes from 4 to 15, medium or wide. (You need to read the size chart to determine men’s sizes, because that’s how Rocky sizes these boots). These boots have 16-inch uppers. Unlike some snake boots, they’re made in lace-up style, which is nice if you prefer to keep your boots secure and keep out more than just snakes.

Mine (female) have served me well in numerous states and have proven to be the correct height for blocking any snakes that are froggy enough to try striking as you walk by. (The worst you might feel from that is a quick bump as they bounce off the boot.) This aspect is especially useful in Texas, where seeing venomous snakes is never a surprise and is always expected. So, when it’s prime snake time, you want these boots.

These boots utilize Rocky’s waterproof system. It’s one that remains breathable, so the boots are able to resist mud and rain, keeping your feet dry. They’re constructed from full-grain leather and nylon, and they have a polyurethane and rubber outsole. With a total weight of about 1.5 pounds, they’re really not excessively bulky, especially when you consider their height. These aren’t awkward or uncomfortable snake boots, either. Do your legs get hot with these? I’d say yes, but not ridiculously so, and that is a small price to pay for protection from our fanged friends. Rocky gives these boots a Mossy Oak Break Up camo outer layer to help them blend in and uses tan leather over the stress points.

Best Hunting Boots for those on the go:

Danner Pronghorn ($246.46)

The Danner Pronghorn boot is produced in men’s sizes, but I’ve found that the sizing works just fine for women, too. That’s not something you can say about all boots, since women do tend to have narrower feet.

These boots are considered the foundation of the company’s hunting boot line-up. They are now in their fifth iteration, which is impressive. Danner Pronghorns are made to keep you comfortable and stable during your hunt—both important elements. These boots are great for deer hunts and any hunt that involves light to moderate hiking. Their 400-gram boots with a GORE-TEX waterproof liner.

Their eight-inch, full-grain leather upper is resistant to wear and also delivers fantastic longevity. The 400-gram PrimaLoft insulation helps keep your feet from getting excessively cold without being too much for warmer weather. These boots also have a Realtree Edge camo pattern, so the colors are great for most terrain. A Vibram midsole cushions feet during the hiking portion of hunts and a TERRA FORCE NEXT platform gives users solid arch support. Danner Pronghorns are excellent boots for hunts, whether you’re chasing feral hogs, whitetail deer, or turkeys. These are the kind of boots that will have you wanting to buy multiple pairs (believe me).

Best Hunting Boots for around the house:

Lacrosse AlphaTerra ($154.65-$170.56 depending on size)

It’s a tossup whether to list the massive benefits of Lacrosse’s muck boots or focus on the AlphaTerra, because this is a company that produces some wonderful mud boots.

We’re focusing on the AlphaTerra because these are the ankle-height boots that should literally live in your truck or by the back door. Who among us hasn’t decided to go on a hunt at the last minute, or forgotten their favorite hunting boots at home? Lacrosse AlphaTerras come in men’s and women’s sizes. The women’s version is currently only offered in black and white. If you’re a woman who wants camo or boots that don’t have high-visibility strips of white, you may want to stick to men’s sizes.

The Mossy Oak Bottomland-patterned AlphaTerra has a six-inch height. It’s a one-piece, pull-on boot with no laces or buckles, although it does have a zipper closure on the side. They’re made from rubber and insulated neoprene with an EVA midsole. They offer stellar water protection (as long as you remember their shorter height). These boots also make wonderful transition boots between a muddy field and home, or from a hunt to your kid’s soccer practice. They’re comfortable enough to wear just about anywhere and they are also a lot easier to clean than many other boots. For those of us who have a tendency to wear hunting boots more often than not, the Lacrosse AlphaTerra is a nice option that doesn’t quite scream, “I’d rather be in the woods,” and manages to look and serve as a functional, useful shorter boot.

Best Hunting Boots for Muddy Terrain:

Frogg Toggs Ridge Buster Mud Boot ($68.13-$169.99 Depending on Size and Color)

The Frogg Toggs Ridge Buster Mud Boot makes the list for best muddy terrain but could almost make it for its cold weather applications as well (depending on which Thinsulate you choose on the 600/1200 options). Although it’s a higher boot it boasts all day comfort and has the option as mentioned above to be a warm boot (1200g thinsulate) or a breathable boot (600g thinsulate) for the springtime mud hunts.

These boots come available in Mossy Oak, RealTree Edge, Brown, and RealTree Timber. There are available options as a Mud Boot, a Knee Boot, and a Lite Mid Boot. and they make both men and women’s models. Frogg Toggs is a brand you can trust with excellent customer service and response should you need it. Their boots are durable, dependable, and made for most any conditions – including fishing boots as well!

I’ve been in a few needed-gear discussions through the years, and my pack is wiser and better for it after such campfire sessions.

In fact, if you happen to look through my pack right now, odds are you’ll find a few of those must-have items that weren’t always there before; things like a book or magazine to read, a roll of toilet paper, and a copy of the latest hunting regs.

By the way, if you’re going to rummage through my hunting pack, be sure to put down that package of Old Trapper Jumbo Kippered Beef Steak because it’s mine, and no, you can’t have it. The same goes for the Old Trapper Original Deli Style Beef Sticks, while we’re on the subject.

But there are other items in my pack besides some great-tasting beef jerky. And some, put simply, are so vital to a solid outcome that if you head into the woods without them, you’re not really ready to hunt, in my humble opinion.

With that in mind, here’s a guide to 10 indispensable items that every deer hunter will want to have handy in a hunting pack.

Bright Stuff

In all my years of hunting, one of the most indispensable items I’ve made a habit of never leaving home without is what I call “the bright stuff.” That includes a compact and bright flashlight, like those made by Surefire or Streamlight, tools that can help a hunter get to the stand way before dawn, back to the truck well after sundown, and during the O’ Dark Thirty search for a downed buck.

You’ll also find a headlamp. And batteries, don’t forget the extra batteries. Why? Because nothing—and I mean nothing—is as worthless as a bright flashlight or headlamp that won’t shine on a moonless night.

Sharp Stuff

If being able to find your way into and out of the dark deer woods is one necessity in a hunting pack, so, too, is a way of field dressing a downed buck and notching a deer tag. After all, that’s the end goal of a deer hunt, right?

Early in my hunting career, there was always a Buck Knives 110 Folding Hunter—besides being a timeless classic in the hunting knife world, it was also a Christmas present from my late grandmother Zelma—tucked away in a zippered pocket. There’s also a Knives of Alaska Cub Bear caping knife and a KOA Bobcat hatchet tool as well.

And since knives can see their edges dulled from use in the field, be sure that you have a knife-sharpening device of some sort, something like the multi-function, portable sharpening system, Smith’s Pak Pal Pocket.

Stand Prep Gear

While on the subject of sharp things, don’t forget a few tools for prepping the area around your deer stand.

Obviously, a good limb saw is a fine start in this department, as is a pair of brush-cutting shears, or garden pruners, to help snip away a limb or two that might block a clear shot path when Mr. Big comes calling. Since some public hunting areas won’t allow cutting or pruning activity, a handful of black or brown zip ties is a must to hold back protruding vegetation along with a few feet of paracord for the same purposes.

Gloves

Most hunters carry a pair of camouflage gloves (don’t forget the face mask or head net, either) in their pack, gloves that will help hide hands from the prying eyes of a deer cruising through the woods.

But there are two other types of gloves you’ll want in your pack as well. The first is a pair of leather or canvas work gloves for dealing with moving big tree limbs, pushing logs out of the way, or dragging a big buck out of the woods.

And last—but certainly not least—is a pair of field-dressing gloves in your pack, indispensable tools when it comes time to getting a downed buck ready for transport back to camp. After all, you plan on punching a deer tag on your next hunt, right?

Hunting Extras

I used to think having an extra bowhunting release or supply of rifle or muzzleloader bullets was overkill and just added unnecessary weight to a pack that already seemed heavy enough.

That is, until I dropped one of those items to the ground 20 feet below my treestand as shooting time arrived. Or discovered that such vital necessities were back in my pickup truck, two miles back down the trail and minutes before I expected Old Swamp Daddy to show up. In such instances, what’re a few extra ounces worth?

Rain Gear

I’ll be honest, if the day’s weather forecast shows an all-day downpour is coming, I’m probably going to skip out of deer hunting (unless there’s an enclosed hard ground blind I can sit comfortably in as everything gets drenched).

But for the times when an unexpected shower pops up on the radar, some lightweight rain gear is a blessing and a half, helping me stay warm, dry, and comfortable, just long enough for the woods to come alive as does and big-antlered bucks get up, shake themselves dry, and start to move again.

Hunting Calls

I’ll admit that I was once a skeptic about carrying hunting calls. You know, the extra weight thing, and the nagging question of whether or not they really worked.

But then came hunts where I saw firsthand proof that the grunt calls and rattling horns I wasn’t always sure about actually did work. In fact, I can still see the South Texas buck all wide-eyed and nostrils flaring as he came searching for a buck fight that didn’t exist.

Now, you’ll never find me in the deer woods these days without a grunt call, a fawn bleat call, and some way to simulate a pair of old bucks knocking their heads together again. Like doubting Thomas, I’m a believer now.

Power, Power, Power!

A high-school football coach friend of mine is fond of the running game for his program. After all, it’s worked wonders down through the years and sent a number of good running backs on to play college football. So, it’s no wonder that he often says that his favorite brand of gridiron action revolves around “Power, power, power!”

The same is true for deer hunters and the powering up of their smartphones or other electronic devices. While I could wax poetic here and say that we should leave such devices back at camp, none of us ever do.

And after texting back and forth to my wife about the adult kid’s Christmas lists, looking at e-mails from the boss, or checking the latest football score on a Saturday afternoon, I know firsthand how the cold temperatures and long hours of deer hunting can zap an electronic device of its life-giving power.

The solution? Keep a charged-up power supply handy in your pack, along with a power cord, and you’ll get through a long day of hunting with plenty of electronic juice to spare.

Hydration

In the good old days, I’d have probably just written something here about carrying a thermos of hot coffee or a bottle of water, something to wash lunch down and help keep a hunter hydrated.

But as a hunter moving through his 50s right now—loosely translated, that means that I have trouble staying alert and my muscles get sore pretty easily—I now opt for hydration that brings a benefit beyond simply slaking my thirst.

That means carrying a packet or two of hydration mixes from hunting nutritional product companies like Mossy Oak Wellness, Mtn Ops, or Wilderness Athlete, among others. Depending on what product you like, there are various flavor options as well as products that can help with muscle tissue recovery, a boost of energy without the caffeine-related crash, and even give a boost to your immune system.

Nutrition

Last, but not least, you’ll want to make sure that your pack has some way to fuel the big hunting engine known as your body, a way of gaining some nutrition, a few calories, and staving off a growling stomach until you can get back to camp and can grab a hot meal.

When planning for a lengthy deer hunting sit, I’m going to be packing food items like a turkey sandwich or two, two or three packages of peanut butter crackers, and a few sleeves of my favorite nuts or trail mix.

Whatever is going into my pack, I want food and snack items that are protein-rich, low on fat, skinny on carbs and calories, aren’t terribly smelly, and come in packages that are easy to open and don’t make a lot of noise as I’m fumbling around.

That leads to one of deer hunting’s most perfect snack options, the beef jerky products made by Old Trapper, the Oregon-based company founded in 1969 that is one of America’s leaders in making tasty and nutritious jerky products like the company’s time-honored Old Fashioned Beef Jerky in the clear 10-ounce packaging.

From a nutritional standpoint, the Old Fashioned flavor checks all of the boxes for yours truly: it’s low in fat (as in zero percent for overall fat and saturated fat daily allowances), it’s low in per-serving calories (70) and carbs (6 grams), and it packs a powerhouse punch of protein (11 grams).

Not to mention that it’s plenty darn tasty and satisfying, too. Plus, if you’re familiar with the history of the Forest Grove, Oregon, jerky-making company, then you’ll recognize that it’s this jerky—and its lean cuts of seasoned and lightly brown sugared beef—that started Old Trapper’s run to the top of the mountain, all out of the back of a small grocery store.

Today, the company still uses real wood, real smokehouses, and the time-honored processes that result in jerky that is never tough, always tasty, and a welcome part of any deer hunter’s pack.

Numerous other options are in the Old Trapper line-up too, including Old Trapper Teriyaki Beef Jerky; Old Trapper Peppered Beef Jerky; and Old Trapper Hot & Spicy Beef Jerky.

And don’t forget the Old Trapper Zero Sugar Beef Jerky; the oval coins of Old Trapper Old Fashioned Double Eagle Beef Jerky; or the company’s various snack stick products like the Old Trapper Teriyaki Deli Style Beef Stick and the Old Trapper Jalapeno Beef & Cheese Snack Stick among others.

In short, there’s a number of great items deer hunters need to keep in their hunting pack throughout hunting season, from the warm early days of September and October, to the bitter cold days of late December and early January as the buzzer gets ready to sound.

And while most all of these gear items are important in their own right, at the forefront of what needs to go into your pack are the beef jerky and meat snack products from Old Trapper, items that no deer hunting pack should be without.

Two of the most common calibers on the market are the 5.56 rifle caliber cartridge and the 9mm pistol caliber cartridge. They’ve both been around for decades – the 9mm has been around for more than a century – and they’ve both cemented their place in the firearms world.

The popularity of these two calibers is driven by their diversity. They are used successfully in a wide variety of the same situations and settings despite being radically different in every way.

Let’s take a look at how 5.56 and 9mm stack up against one another while recognizing that it is indeed an apples to oranges comparison in many instances.

Specs of 5.56 & 9mm

The 5.56 cartridge and the 9mm cartridge are visual and technical polar opposites. The overall lengths between the two – both the bullets and the cartridges – are completely different. The weight of the bullets for each cartridge is also significantly different. Material makeup, however, is where their paths cross.

Here’s how the 5.56 and 9mm compare and contrast with one another in a series of crucial aspects.

Weight

Bullets in 9mm cartridges weigh more than bullets in 5.56 cartridges. The two most popular bullet weights for 9mm are 115 grains and 124 grains. For the 5.56, the two most popular bullet weights are 55 grains and 62 grains.

This means that the heavier 9mm bullets will leave the barrel with more energy than a 5.56 bullet, but the lighter 5.56 bullets will leave the barrel with more speed.

Materials

There’s a finite number of materials to use in the creation of cartridges, and so there’s a fair amount of overlap between the two calibers. Both can be made with steel or brass cartridge cases and both can be outfitted with bullets made from a variety of steel, copper, and lead alloys to fit certain purposes.

Length

The biggest visual difference between 5.56 and 9mm cartridges is their overall length. Since the 5.56 is designed for a rifle action and the 9mm is designed for a pistol action, they are vastly different in terms of size.

The average length of a 9mm cartridge is 1.16″ overall while the average length of a 5.56 cartridge is 2.26″ overall.

Noise Differences Between 9mm & 5.56

The 5.56 rifle cartridge is inherently more powerful than the 9mm pistol cartridge, so you might expect the 5.56 to be a lot louder than the 9mm, but that’s not the case. They’re actually pretty close to one another.

The 9mm cartridge averages about 166 decibels while the 5.56 cartridge averages about 169 decibels. Either way, that’s still very loud and well above the threshold of 140 decibels for hearing damage.

Both calibers benefit greatly from the use of a suppressor, and the sound levels can be brought down to a hearing-safe level when used in conjunction with the right load of ammo.

Ammunition for 9mm & 5.56

Because of the popularity of both 9mm and 5.56 calibers, there are a plethora of ammunition choices for each on the market. Do your own research based on the specific firearm and specific purpose before deciding on which kind of ammunition will work best for your application.

Subsonic ammo is available for both calibers, which eliminates the typical crack of a gunshot as it breaks the sound barrier. If you’re using subsonic ammo with a suppressor, you’ll definitely be bringing the decibel levels down to a hearing-safe level.

Just be aware that subsonic ammo operates differently in semi-automatic weapons, which depend on the gases to cycle the action of the gun. Make sure to test out your combinations before trusting your life to them.

Effectiveness of the Weapons

Weapons chambered in 5.56 or 9mm are incredibly effective. There’s a reason that the 9mm cartridge has been adopted the world over for police and military purposes when pistol-caliber weapons are applicable. In that same vein, the 5.56 cartridge is also popular all around the world where rifle-caliber weapons are applicable.

The simple fact of the matter is that these two calibers would not have survived and thrived for this long if they were not effective in their given weapons systems.

Accuracy

Both 9mm and 5.56 cartridges are very accurate. In the hands of a competent shooter who knows what they are doing, there’s no reason to expect anything other than accurate shots from a firearm chambered for 9mm or 5.56 ammo.

Uses for 9mm & 5.56

As you might have guessed, the popularity of the 9mm and 5.56 cartridges is due in no small part to the wide variety of uses to which they are suited. They often overlap one another for a variety of reasons and purposes and are used by countless individuals in similar situations who have determined for themselves that these calibers are the best choice for the given job.

Home Defense

A handgun or pistol caliber carbine chambered in 9mm is the gun-caliber combo of choice for countless people. A 9mm handgun can sit on the nightstand and be grabbed in a flash. Or, a 9mm pistol-caliber carbine can be retrieved quickly and provide the benefit of a longer barrel and accuracy with the same cartridge.

Similarly, AR-style pistols in 5.56 are common selections for plenty of people when it comes to home defense. You can have the power of the 5.56 in a smaller package that is more easily maneuvered through a home than would be possible with a 16″ carbine or even a 20″ rifle.

Hunting

Both calibers are very popular for hunting. Of course, it is key to know the specific type of ammo you will be using and how it performs when paired with the firearm of your choice. For example, you wouldn’t hunt squirrels with a 20″ rifle chambered in 5.56 and you wouldn’t hunt buffalo with a 4″ pistol chambered in 9mm.

As long as you make the proper pairing for the game you’re hunting, then there’s no reason not to use 9mm or 5.56 cartridges in those situations.

Marksmanship/Sport

Without a doubt, one of the most popular uses for 5.56 and 9mm cartridges is in the marksmanship and sports competition settings. There’s no shortage of training and competition opportunities for firearms in both calibers. In fact, there are some sports, such as 3-Gun, where you’ll use a handgun chambered in 9mm and a long gun chambered in 5.56 for different stages of the same match.

The Final Verdict: 5.56 vs 9mm

As we mentioned at the beginning, comparing 5.56 to 9mm is a sort of apples to oranges situation. Of course, there’s a great deal of overlap between the two, but the ultimate decision of which one to choose is up to you.

Regardless of which one you choose (or hey, choose both – this is America!), there’s no denying that the best way to step it up a notch is by shooting 9mm or 5.56 with a suppressor.

At Silencer Central, we have no shortage of great suppressor options for 9mm and 5.56 and we can make sure you’ve got the right one for your specific needs. Give us a call and we can talk you through your options and get you started on the path to suppressor ownership. We make the process as easy as it can be, letting you do the entire thing from the comfort of your own home.

From the initial paperwork to the final delivery to your door, we will handle it all for you. Get started today and enjoy the benefits of shooting 5.56 and 9mm suppressed!

Shop Suppressors

The Rage Hypodermic Crossbow Broadhead is one of the greatest innovations in modern archery hunting in several areas. That said, it may not be perfect for everyone, but I’ve found it to be my favorite tool in my broadhead toolbox thus far. I just finished my fourth deer hunting season exclusively using these broadheads, and I have alot of insights to share.

I’ve seen plenty of reviews where people talk hypothetically and scientifically about these broadheads, quoting all the marketing materials or synthesizing other online reviews and it’s obvious they have never touched let alone shot one of these broadheads.

That isn’t going to be this review. I have four sets of antlers that these broadheads have brought home for me, not to mention some does the Rage’s have put in my freezer as well. And I have bought every single broadhead with my own money. This review is packed with information and insight that the cookie cutter reviews can’t provide.

How They Work

The rage hypodermics are a mechanical broadhead, which means they fold up neatly for storage and shooting. But upon impact, the cutting blades expand outward to drastically increase the cutting diameter. One some models the blades are held in place by a collar, other models have no collar, more on that later.

These broadheads are simple to work with, safe to handle, and thus far in my experience, 100% reliable. The goal of mechanical broadheads is to provide a larger cutting diameter than is feasible with fixed blade broadheads while being more aerodynamic and accurate. Do they achieve this goal? In short, yes.

Specs

• 2-Blade Crossbow Broadhead
• 100 Grain or 125 Grain
• Hybrid Hypodermic Tip
• Stainless Steel Hypodermic Ferrule
• .035″ Blade Thickness
• 2 ” Cutting Diameter
• High Energy SHOCK COLLAR™ or No Collar Blade Lock
• 3 per Package
• Replacement Blades Available

If you are new to crossbow hunting, here is a podcast episode I did on How To Pick Your First Crossbow For Deer Hunting.

Massive Effectiveness – Hype or Truth?

Rage boasts a lot of big colorful words to describe how impressively effective these crossbow broadheads are, along with the non-crossbow versions. Do they live up to that hype though? Are they really that devastating on deer? My experience with archery hunting is that if you hit a deer in an ideal location, that deer is going to die. And if you hit it in a bad location, it may or may not die, and you may or may not recover it. Shot placement is everything to achieve a quick humane kill.

These hypodermic crossbow broadheads are no exception to that simple truth. I have botched a shot and lost a deer. But if the hunter can do their part and place the shot in a good spot, these things are amazing. The stories below illustrate that quite well.

Cast Studies Of How They Really Work

The first shot I took with a Rage Hypodermic Crossbow Broadhead dropped the deer to the ground, in place, at 30 yards. The deer couldn’t go five feet. The wound was so impressive, and deer bled out so much and so quickly that it was a little bit nauseating to me. I kid you not. The deer was unconscious within seconds, it dropped right to the ground and couldn’t get back up. I was immediately sold on these broadheads. They were unbelievably effective.

The second deer I shot was a nice buck walking at 23 yards. I watched it run less than 50 yards and pile up right in front of me. This shot was not as gruesome as the first, but it was impressively effective. The deer was not conscious for more than a few seconds.

The next buck I shot ran 75 yards or so but left such a large blood trail that I could not believe there was any blood left in the deer by the time I found it. Far more blood than with any rifle kill I’ve had on a deer. Again, a very fast and humane kill.

I could go on and on, but the bottom line is this. Every deer where I was even close to a vital area was on the ground within seconds and didn’t go more than that one at 75 yards. The blood trails were always easy to follow when I didn’t watch the deer go down. Sometimes the blood trails were excessive and other times they were average. But each time the deer went down fast, humanely, with minimal suffering and was easily recovered.

How Well Do They Penetrate?

When it comes to arrows, everyone wants a pass-through shot, myself included. A pass-through double lung shot will quickly kill a deer 100% of the time and provide the most trackable blood with the largest margin of error. Plus, a pass through arrow is most easily recovered and reused. These Rage broadheads have not always given me a clean passthrough shot though.

I would say 60% of the time the arrow has gone through the deer and cleanly come out the other side. The other 40% of the time the arrow has poked through the other side of the deer to some degree but remained lodged in the deer. I hate this, because almost every single time the arrow has been broken, usually sheared off when the deer runs next to a tree.

However, the effectiveness of the broadhead has not diminished at all in these situations. The deer do not run any further or bleed any less. The broadhead does its damage, its game over every single time. What keeps the arrow from cleanly leaving the deer? I cannot tell. These things tend to go right through rib bone like nothing. I am wondering if the bow I’ve been using needs the string replaced and is losing some velocity. But the bottom line is a 100% fast kill rate on all deer shot anywhere close to a vital area.

Do They Always Work?

Yes, so far. I have not had one fail to deploy, deploy improperly, or malfunction in any way. I shoot, the broadhead opens, and the deer quickly expires. I have full confidence that these are going to work every time. I’ve shot deer as far as 40 yards and have never had an issue with the broadheads. They just work. As they should.

Can They Pass Through Bone?

I hate this question, because it is not often asked responsibly. No archery hunter should ever fire into the shoulder or at any bone other than a rib. It is irresponsible and unethical. No broadhead, no matter what it’s made of, fixed, mechanical, titanium, or weighing 600 grains can reliability pass through the thickest part of the shoulder of a gull grown deer, let alone with enough power to humanely kill the deer. Often the arrow will deflect, sometimes it will bounce off, if it goes through its trajectory can be greatly altered. It is a not a shot hunters should take or try to find special equipment for. Stop it.

Stop chasing this foolhardy idea, it is wounding too many deer. Never aim for hard bone and don’t try to build a heavy arrow setup that gives you a better change of taking the deer if you do. You will focus on the wrong things and botch more shots because of it. These broadheads and all broadheads will do what they are designed to do, go through both lungs and kill a deer quickly. If you want to shoot through the shoulder, then use a rifle. For more, check out my podcast episode Heavy Arrows Vs. Fast Arrows For Deer Hunting.

Can You Shoot Through Mesh In Ground Blinds?

This is a hotly contested subject! Shooting through the mesh of a ground blind with any broadhead, let alone a mechanical broadhead like the Rage Hypodermic is greatly debated. Rather than quoting arguments and articles, I’ll just tell you the truth. It works, its fine, and it works great. 80% of the deer I’ve shot with these have been from ground blinds and through the mesh. I have not noticed any difference whatsoever of shots going through the mesh vs. those not through the message. It’s a non-issue.

I believe the benefits of the mesh to conceal the hunter outweigh any theoretical cons about shooting through mesh. It does not seem to impact the velocity, range, accuracy, or penetration of the broadheads. And no, they do not deploy when shooting through the mesh. This debate is waged largely by people who have no experience. I can tell you first-hand, the mesh hasn’t hurt me one bit.

Collar vs. No Collar

Rage makes a version of the Hypodermic crossbow broadheads with a collar and without a collar. If you are unfamiliar, the collar is just a little plastic ring that holds the blades in place. When the broadheads hit the deer, the collar snaps off and the blades open. The no collar version uses a newer mechanical mechanism to replace the collar.

There is alot of debate about broadheads that use a collar being inferior because the collar requires “alot of energy” to break and that energy is not able to go into the deer. I talked to Rage about this very point at length, and according to them, the people who make the broadheads, this is completely untrue. The amount of energy required to break a collar is inconsequential.

People accidently snap collars when brush touches the broadhead in a quiver, which is one of the main reasons they created the no collar version. The collar and the no collar broadheads perform almost identically.

Keep in mind, it is in their best interest to push the no collar models because they cost more. So, to say the cheaper and older collared models have the same performance is just plain honesty. I personally prefer the collar version because it is cheaper than the no-collar.

The Best Part – They Fly Like Field Tips

Hands down, the best feature of the Rage Hypodermic Crossbow Broadhead is that they fly just like a field tip. I can practice with field tips as much as I want, and then put on a broadhead and will have the same accuracy at every range that the field tip has. This means I only need to practice with one set of ranges. I am able to hit what and where I am aiming much more easily.

Because shot placement matters more than anything else and everything else when it comes to deer hunting. And these broadheads help me place my shots better. That is the number one reason I like them. The better the hit, the cleaner the kill, the faster you can recover the deer and the better quality the meat. Here is a short video I did about how long to wait to recover a wounded deer from two different perspectives. 

Can You Re-Use Them?

People sometimes also say the no collar version of the broadheads is better than the collar version because you won’t run out of collars. Well, neither of these broadheads are very re-usable. They are essentially a one-shot tool. The arrows you can easily re-use, the broadheads rarely are. Rage does make replacement blades you can swap out, so if you do that and sharpen the point of the arrow and nothing is bent, you could re-use them.

But for the trouble and cost, I just throw on a new broadhead every time so I can have peace of mind than I am at 100% for the next deer. I do save my used broadheads that are still in good shape for small game or even turkey hunting. I asked Rage directly if the broadheads were typically single use items and they agreed that they are.

Mechanical vs. Fixed Blade Broadheads

I will not go into the same level of detail describing any specific fixed blade broadheads, but I want to mention the general pros and cons of them. The biggest three benefits that fixed blade broadheads have are less complexity, better able to break through bone, and are more easily re-usable. The cons are that they often drop faster or fly different than field tips, may have less range, and do less damage to the deer.

For me, and only me, I value the mechanical broadheads much higher than fixed blade versions. I prize the ability to accurately hit the deer above everything else, and the Rage’s excel in this area. I have not seen any reliability issue with the Rage’s despite their greater complexity, and I would not likely take the time to straighten and re-sharpen fixed blade broadheads after use anyway, so they would still be single use items for me. In terms of ability to “smash through bone”, you shouldn’t be doing anyway, as I noted previously.

So, for me, it is no contest. Accuracy trumps everything and being able to more speedily dispatch a well hit deer trumps any theoretical potential to break through bones I shouldn’t be aiming at. You may have different priorities and ways to rate the value of these tools for your use. Always use what fits YOU best.

The Cheapest Way To Get Them

I have found the most cost effective way to buy the Rage Hypodermic Crossbow Broadheads with a collar and without a collar is from Amazon. The prices fluctuate throughout the year but when they are low, especially for the version with a collar they can be very inexpensive. Always be on the lookout for good deals though. You never know where you might find a great price. I will buy them anytime during the year to keep my stock up to an acceptable level.

Conclusion & Recommendations

Are the Rage Hypodermic Crossbow Broadheads the best option on the market? I can’t say that. There are lots of other options I have yet to test. But of everything I have put my hands on, these are thus far the best tool I’ve come across. Why? I can hit what I’m aiming at better than anything else, they work every time, and they do all that a broadhead can do to bring down a deer fast and humanely. So I give them top marks.

Be sure to listen to The New Hunters Guide Podcast and check us out on YouTube.

Till next time. God bless you, and go get em in the woods!

George Konetes Ph.D. – Founder and Host of the New Hunters Guide.

The New Hunters Guide is simply what George wishes he would have had when learning how to hunt; a single place to get practical hands on knowledge about different kinds of hunting, gear, strategy, and tips that can improve your comfort and fun factor in the woods.

SPANISH LAKE, Mo. (KTVI) – Joshua Jones Jr. is taking it all in after a recent midnight miracle on the Missouri River.

Inspired by a contest, and with support from his father, Joshua made a once-in-a-lifetime catch around midnight Wednesday, reeling in a 108-pound catfish from the river near the St. Louis suburb of Spanish Lake.

Joshua had actually dozed off when the catch happened, exhausted after a long night of fishing.

“I was sleeping when the fish got on, so it kind of woke me up,” said Joshua. “And then I felt the pull and drag, which really woke me up.”

It took about 20 minutes of fighting the line, but Joshua was able to reel in a monster-sized catfish and get it on the boat.

“It was pretty exciting at first when I was fighting the fish,” said Joshua.

He developed his passion and fishing skills through a bond with his father, Joshua Jones Sr. The two have spent countless hours out on the water.

“I had him on the bank before he could walk, trying to catch bluegills,” said Joshua Sr.

A love for angling is something Joshua Sr. learned from his father, driving his inspiration to teach his own two sons.

“I couldn’t wait to have a boy to take out with me and fish and be my best friend out on the river,” said Joshua Sr.

A best friend, also ready to battle the bite. “Take your time. Take your time. Take your time,” said Joshua Sr. recalled telling his son as they worked to tire the massive fish.

Joshua Jr. recalled several instances where he had to grab the catfish with his own hand, guiding it in the right direction. After grueling minutes of toggling with the fishing rod, the small boat’s crew conquered the catfish.

“It’s a monster! It’s a monster!” both said in a video they recorded of the encounter.

What did young Joshua do with his big catch? He took a photo with it, then released it in hopes of entering it into a contest.

“He was determined and always told me, ‘I’m going to catch the record. I want to catch a 100-pound fish, and he caught it,” said Joshua Sr.

“We come out here to fish, but we also come out here to hunt for those big fish,” said Joshua Sr.

They were hoping for a $500 reward in a Mad Katz fishing contest. Joshua Jr. and his father thought they’d be making history and getting a few extra bucks for their bait. Unfortunately, they were disqualified due to a rule violation – judges were unable to visually see the bottom of the net while the pair completed the weigh in.

“A lot of guys search for a fish like that for a long time,” said Joshua Sr.

The whole Jones family has caught countless catfish out on the Missouri waters, but they haven’t seen anything of this size before. Joshua Sr. realizes that no matter how big the catch, fishing is more about the connections.

“To get out here and experience such a thing, to throw a fishing rod, big fish, small fish — a lot of times, it doesn’t matter. Just love the experience itself,” he said.

According to CatfishEdge.com, the largest catfish ever caught in the Missouri River weighed 130 pounds. Greg Bernal caught the catfish in 2010, a one-time world record.

Whether you’re narrowing the gap between food and your table, connecting more deeply to nature through conservation, or extending your hunting seasons with archery gear, you’ll never run short of great reasons to try bowhunting.

Gearing up to bowhunt is exciting, and it’s much simpler than most people realize. To help you better understand what you need for your first bowhunt, let’s review 10 basic bowhunting tools.

1. Compound Bow

Obviously, a bow of some sort is your most basic need. You have three bow types to choose from, starting with the compound bow. These bows are nearly standard issue for bowhunting today. They’re easier to shoot than traditional recurves or longbows, but require more practice than crossbows to become proficient. Modern compound bows are efficient and don’t require extraordinary strength to draw and shoot.

When selecting a bow, it’s best to seek help from an expert at an archery shop. Hunting bows are not “one size fits all.” Make sure you choose a bow that matches your fit and bowhunting needs. You must become as accurate as possible to enjoy shooting and be lethal in the woods.

2. Traditional Bow

Traditional recurves or longbows are bowhunting’s simplest weapons. These bows have been used thousands of years, and are more effective today than when our ancestors carried them for hunting and self-protection. Shooting and harvesting game animals with these basic bows is also challenging and rewarding.

Drawing a traditional bow that’s powerful enough to take game animals like deer, elk or bears requires more strength than drawing a compound bow. However, their simplicity makes them the most affordable option for prospective bowhunters with tight budgets.

3. Crossbow

Until recently crossbow hunting was mostly reserved for senior citizens, or people with injuries or disabilities. Today, most states and Canadian providences allow crossbows during part or all of the regular archery season. Crossbows reduce the learning curve needed to shoot arrows proficiently. Most crossbow archers prefer aiming with a scope like those used on hunting rifles. This makes crossbows fairly easy to shoot accurately, even for those with little or no experience. Crossbow prices vary, but they’re similar to prices for compound bows.

4. Arrows

Once you’ve selected a hunting bow, it’s time to pick your arrows. Arrows must be matched to your bow’s draw weight and draw length. To ensure you make the right choice, consult experts at the nearest archery store.

5. Broadheads

For most target practice, archers shoot arrows tipped with practice points. When it’s time to prepare for bowhunting season, swap your field points for broadheads. Broadheads wield razor-sharp blades that cut through a game animal’s hide, flesh and organs to cause quick, ethical harvesting. Broadheads come in nearly infinite options, but some might be better suited than others for the quarry you hunt and the bow you shoot. Again, ask an expert for advice to ensure your broadhead matches your setup.

6. Bow Accessories

This is a broad category. The accessories you need depend on your bow and your budget. Those shooting a compound, crossbow or traditional bow must have a hooded quiver to carry their broadhead-tipped arrows. Most hunting quivers attach to the bow or crossbow, but some bowhunters prefer quivers they carry over a shoulder or attach to a pack.

Next, arrow-rests hold the arrow in place while drawing and shooting. The options are many, and the styles vary by bow and personal preference. Release-aids attach the bowhunter to the bowstring, and feature a trigger that releases the arrow.

Release-aids are standard gear for shooting a compound bow. Those shooting traditional bows use a shooting glove or finger tab, which protects the shooter’s fingers when drawing the bowstring and releasing the shot.

A bow-sight is a reference point for aiming, and typically has one to six pins the shooter adjusts individually to precise distances. You’ll find plenty of options for bow-sights, and the archery store’s pros can help you find your best option. Even so, a sight is not absolutely necessary for some bowhunters, especially those shooting traditional gear. However, they’re a great training aid when learning archery, and deliver consistent accuracy.

Bowhunters who use crossbows require fewer accessories than those using vertical bows. Crossbows are commonly sold in kits with everything needed to start shooting, but many options exist if you dislike what’s included.

Scopes, for example, come in various magnifications, and at highly varying price points. Be sure to consult an archery pro to determine which scope meets your hunting needs.

Crossbow hunters also require a cocking device, which helps them draw the bow and lock its string into the fire-ready position. A simple string-cocker uses a rope and pulleys for this task, but some crossbows feature a hand crank that makes the job nearly effortless.

7. Clothing

Bowhunting and camouflage go hand in hand. Camo helps bowhunters remain unseen so unsuspecting game approaches within range. Matching camo to your hunting area can feel overwhelming, but experts at an archery or sporting-goods store can help.

No matter what you choose, be sure to dress in layers. Bowhunting can require bouts of vigorous, sweat-pumping activity followed by long stretches of wet, chilly waiting in harsh elements. Layering helps you stay comfortable by adding or removing layers to match the situation.

8. Backpack

You’ll need a hunting pack to carry your gear, water, snacks, licenses and hunting gear. If you plan to hunt where you’ll often hike long distances, consider a pack that can carry your bow. And if you hunt areas accessible only by foot, choose a pack that’s substantial enough to help pack out your animal.

9. Boots

Veteran bowhunters put good boots at or near the top of their gear list. Whether you’re sitting, still-hunting or spot-and-stalk hunting, boots are vital to consistent success. If you regularly hike a mile or more to reach hunting sites, your boots must offer comfort and support. Stand-hunters, meanwhile, usually place priority on boots that keep their feet warm all day.

10. Ground Blind/Treestand

Stand-hunters hide out and wait in treestands or ground blinds for animals to come into bow range. Ground blinds are essentially small, portable camouflage tents that set up where you hunt. Treestands conceal bowhunters by elevating them above the animal’s normal view. Both are excellent options. If you bowhunt from a treestand – the most common method for bowhunting deer – never leave the ground without wearing a full-body safety harness to prevent a fall.

No matter your hunting style, also carry binoculars and a rangefinder. Binoculars help you search the landscape for game and identify it. And rangefinders quickly pinpoint the distance to your quarry.

Did you get all that? No matter which bow you choose or the style of bowhunting you try, expect an adrenaline rush like you’ve never experienced when that deer, bear, elk or turkey walks into range. And to ensure you’re ready for that big moment, start scouting now to find a nearby bowhunting shop to help guide you along.

By: Tyler Ridenour of Bowhunting360.com

For whatever reason, the topic of barrel break-ins comes up in two main groups amongst gun owners…

First, the precision shooters. Second, the guys that skimped on quality parts.

This topic pops up time and time again online either as a question on “how-to” or as a response to something not going right. I’m going to get on my soapbox for a minute and try to set the record straight on this a bit.

Is a break-in process necessary for your barrel? Let’s dive in, talk about it, and help you reach a conclusion!

Barrel Break-In: What Is It?

Before we tackle whether or not your barrel needs to be broken in, let’s discuss what a break-in is and what it is supposed to do.

When you get a new barrel, there are going to be some tiny imperfections that are inherent to the process of making it. Please take note, I said tiny, not obvious.

A quality-made barrel will have microscopic nicks, pockets, and other suck shallow “holes” in metal that are part of the machining process or the make-up of the metal used.

These may or may not be visible if borescoped. However, it shouldn’t be visible if you look down the barrel before assembly.

The break-in process in theory should help to fill in or fix any of these imperfections.

By shooting a round, then cleaning any corrosive agents out of the barrel before they can set in, you are smoothing things out and creating a more uniform surface.

The actual process of this can vary from shooter to shooter, but the idea is the same.

Shoot a shot, clean the corrosives out, allow the barrel to cool (depending on conditions). Shoot a shot, clean, and cool. Repeat.

This variation is also where things get a little wonky and can border on the mystical.

Plus, breaking in a barrel isn’t always necessary in the first place.

Precision Shooting

Breaking in a precision gun, be it bolt-action or semi-auto, is a necessary part of owning the gun.

With precision shooting, eliminating any variables to control your shot placement is the primary focus.

To that goal, breaking-in can tighten up groups and reduce flyers to some degree. This is due to the “break-in shots” achieving a barrel free of anything that might impact the spin of the bullet.

Say, for example, that a tiny burr was riding up in the barrel and it hit the bullet just before exiting the muzzle. That is going to affect the spin, trajectory of the bullet, and ultimately change the point of impact.

My precision guys are some of the most superstitious, must-adhere-to-tradition members of the barrel break-in cult you will find.

I live in Nevada, and it gets hot during the spring and summer months (consistently over 110 degrees Fahrenheit in Las Vegas). I know guys that refuse to shoot more than one shot every couple of days when breaking in a barrel to allow it to fully cool.

Why? That’s what the guy who taught them to shoot did, and the guy before him handed that down, and so on.

I am not saying that allowing your barrel to cool longer is a bad thing. I am asking what’s going to be achieved by waiting 48 hours that isn’t achieved in an hour?

Other examples are shooters that will only run their lucky number of patches down the bore, shooters that will only shoot on the hour, or any other number of things that supposedly work for them.

The Budget Boys

The other group I see consistently talking about barrel break-in are the guys that buy low-quality parts from manufacturers that use their customer base as a form of quality control.

This mostly seems to be guys in the AR-15 crowd that think the 0 MOA guarantee on their $79 barrel is going to deliver.

Companies that improperly machine barrels seem to draw in shooters that think saying, “I need to break in my barrel” will do anything. It won’t.

When rifling is improperly cut, when barrels are improperly crowned when gas ports are improperly sized, and when there are visible imperfections from the manufacturing process, no amount of “break-in” is going to fix the issue.

Your barrel is already broken.

(Quick side note: machining leaves marks, there are times tool marks are ok and other times when it isn’t.)

There is a reason Mike Mihalski of Sons of Liberty emphasizes the barrel as, “the heart of the gun” in his armorer’s course.

Properly made AR-15 barrels can be upwards of $400 and that’s because proper manufacturing from good materials takes time, and labor isn’t cheap.

Unless you have built a PRS-style AR, a barrel break-in isn’t needed.

While it can certainly act in the role to an extent, the AR-15 was never intended to be a precision weapon. It was a gun designed for infantry to fight battles with.

If your barrel is so poorly made that you cannot hit a man-sized target at a few hundred yards due to imperfections in the barrel, then get a new barrel.

How-To Break In a Barrel

Now that I’ve addressed what and who, I may as well tackle the how.

I will discuss the method of barrel break-in I use for my precision guns — bolt or PRS-style ARs.

This method was passed on to me by Ryan Furman.

The appeal of the process is that it is a no-nonsense, no-frills, get it done and get shooting approach to things.

This approach has helped me to break in barrels while at the same time developing hand loads. It’s not only a time-saver but will also save some life on your barrel.

First, you’ll need a few factory rounds to get on target.

After that, I use whatever load I’m testing to try and find the nodes. (If you are unfamiliar with handloading this part may be a bit confusing).

Fire a shot, then give the barrel a swab with Bore Tech Eliminator.

The directions call for three to four patches soaked in Eliminator, then 10 to 15 passes with a tight-fitting nylon brush.

You then want to let the Eliminator soak for about five minutes. Push dry patches through until they come out clean, and you’re done.

Fire another shot, and repeat the process.

On days where the heat is excessive, I’ve found it necessary to set my gun in the shade with a fan (or in my car with the AC on high) to get the barrel to cool down without wasting time.

After 20 or so rounds, a thorough cleaning is in order with the normal procedure and equipment you use.

There you have it. No need to wait days, pray to the ballistic gods, or sacrifice a chicken for help.

Conclusion

Barrel break-ins have their time and place, but they have become convoluted in superstition and mystery.

The process is straightforward when you strip away all the fluff. Fire a shot, clean some of the carbon and copper out, then repeat.

So, find a process that works for you and stick with it. If something isn’t working, figure out why and change it.

Do you break in your barrels? Let us know below. Need to pick up an AR barrel? Check out our article on the Best AR-15 Barrels.