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Truck bed camping can be a blast; indeed, I think it is one of the best ways to travel and get out there, but you have to do it the right way. Desk to Dirtbag has become the #1 site and resource about the whole truck bed camping movement and I have received thousands of emails over the years from readers asking for help and been tuned in to thousands of conversations in our Pickup Truck Camping group on Facebook. That’s all to say that I’ve seen virtually all the truck bed camping mistakes or fails that people make.

Heck, I’ve certainly even experienced a few of them myself over hundreds of nights and 10’s of thousands of miles. Not only have I embarked upon a great American road trip more than a few times, but I’ve also driven across all of Latin America with my ol’ truck. Needless to say, I’m very aware of the pros and cons of truck bed camping.

So, let’s get on with it, these are a few of the biggest truck bed camping fails that you should try to avoid, and which might completely ruin your trip.

Over-Engineering the Build

Part of truck bed camping is building out the back of your truck below the canopy into a cool and cozy space where you can have your own little home on wheels basically. This means gear storage, sleeping, a place for cooking (with ventilation, of course), and a number of other factors.

I did a LOT of research about truck bed camping before I built out the back, and I’ve seen the pretty photos of those super complex builds with the super fancy roll-out drawers, custom lighting, carpeted storage bins, and so much more.

This is a big mistake, in my honest opinion, for a number of reasons:

1. The more you over-engineer your truck bed camping setup, the heavier you are making your truck which will eat into your fuel economy for every mile your drive.
2. The more complex the setup, the more “permanent” these installations usually are, which means less flexibility as your needs change, and increased hassle if you need to remove the setup to use your truck like normal (or even just clean). My setup, for example, takes less than 10 minutes to either completely remove or install.
3. These more permanent setups with fancy slide-out drawers will also dramatically reduce your living space, which leads us directly into the next big mistake…

My setup may not be the most Instagram-worthy, but it is definitely one of the most adventure-worthy vehicles.

Building a Coffin on Wheels

In an ideal world, you’ll only be in your truck for sleeping and then maybe a few hours in total before bedtime and after waking up. This is why the small space of a truck bed camping setup is something that most people can cope with, even over long periods of time. The idea of truck camping has never been just sitting in your truck all the time and hanging out, but rather to use it as a base for all sorts of other amazing adventures.

Side Rant: Ever notice how VanLife people post more pictures of their vans rather than the adventures they should be having thanks to their home on wheels? That’s what we don’t want.

In the real world, however (especially on longer trips), you are bound to find yourself hunkered down in your truck for longer periods of time, perhaps due to a terribly rainy day or for some other reason.

This is where the overbuilt approach mentioned above becomes an even bigger mistake…

The standard truck bed camping approach is to build an elevated platform for gear storage underneath (those fancy sliding drawers and things) but this drastically cuts into your sleeping quarters.

Some people end up likening their truck camping setups to coffins on wheels… They are only big enough to shimmy into and sleep, especially if they have a standard canopy rather than the elevated canopy, as I recommend.

Imagine being stuck inside your little coffin all day without the ability to even sit up!

For that reason, I highly recommend doing the back-shelf approach or the transformer approach that I advocated, rather than the elevated platform approach.

Read more about two main approaches to truck bed camping and their pros & cons.

Not Weatherizing Your Canopy

There’s nothing like the great outdoors and sleeping under the stars, but the whole idea of truck bed camping is the ability to take shelter. That’s what your truck canopy is for. Throw it on top of your truck bed, and the rest will take care of itself, right? Wrong. You need to take precautions, otherwise, you might wake up one morning feeling very wet.

First, make sure your canopy properly fits your truck bed. That should go without saying, but you’d be surprised by some of the rigs you see out there. If your canopy is too small (or too large), or has gaps of light coming through, you need to figure out if it’s defective or unusable for your rig. Don’t ignore this.

If significant amounts of air can come through, so can water. Heat will leak out, too. Who wants to be cold and wet on their trip? The easiest quick and dirty test is to jump inside and get a friend to spray the canopy & truck bed points of contact with a hose from all different angles. Also, focus on the tailgate area for this test. It isn’t perfect because an ongoing torrential rainstorm will be the real test, but it should help you identify the biggest problem areas.

Once you have a canopy in working order, look for ways to ensure moisture never gets in from the outside. Invest in weatherizing truck canopy tape and use it to seal the edges where your canopy meets the bed walls. Pay special attention to the bulkhead, which is the area where the cab meets the bed. Many of my fellow truck campers have issues with water entering through this area, so take the time to waterproof it. I’ll emphasize that you should really take the time to do this, because having a dry space you can rely on is crucial when the weather is at its worst.

Properly sealing your canopy can also help eliminate dust from infiltrating the back which can be a big problem if you’re spending a lot of time off of the asphalt. I took the time to use that sticky foam weather sealant to identify these problem areas which dramatically reduced the amount of dust.

Do this test at night: with the help of a partner, you can have one person inside and another outside as one of you shines a bright flashlight to identify where light escapes (check with the light both from the outside-in and inside-out).

Not Having a Proper Sleep Setup

Do you think you’re one of those people that can fall asleep anywhere? That may be true, but that’s no reason to leave a quality night of sleep to chance. A restless night makes it harder to function during the day. It doesn’t make you look tougher if you’re crabby and fumbling around all day because you didn’t sleep well.

This was probably my biggest mistake when I first set out… I neglected to have a proper sleep setup because I was an experienced backpacker and mountaineer, accustomed to sleeping on little inflatable sleeping pads and squishing some clothes into a stuff sack for a pillow.

FAIL.

This is truck camping, you don’t need to go ultralight (although you shouldn’t go ultra-heavy either). My biggest recommendation is to get a quality truck bed mattress and a nice pillow.

You need a pillow you can actually use, not some worn-out thing from the back of your closet. And beware of memory foam pillows if you plan to sleep in the cold — those things turn hard as a rock (another lesson learned the hard way… literally).

Get some sort of sleeping surface too, so that you don’t lie awake feeling the ridges of your truck bed all night. It could be as simple as a sheet of plywood across the bottom of your truck bed which is basically what I use.

Find a sleeping bag that actually keeps you warm and fits your body. None of this needs to be ultra-expensive, but it does need to be functional. For the sleeping bag, at least, it is worth looking to the backpacking world for clues… You want something that is high quality but can still stuff down without taking up a bunch of room.

To cover the widest range of temperatures, I think that a 15-degree bag is the sweet spot. It will keep you warm inside your truck camping setup in all but the most frigid conditions… I’ve used mine when outside temps were in the single digits — inside the canopy obviously is warmer, and I also use appropriate winter clothes inside the sleeping bag. When it gets warmer, you can open the sleeping bag up and use it as a comforter.

If you’ll be in hot and humid conditions, be sure to just bring along a simple cotton sheet instead.

If you can manage to be a little more comfortable at night, it will make the rest of your adventure that much better.

Read more about choosing a truck bed mattress and sleep system.

Not Locking Up Your Valuables

You might always think the best of people, but that’s no reason not to protect yourself. On the other hand, it’s no good to spend the time away from your truck worrying about who’s going to steal what’s inside it. So, before your next trip, devise a way to keep your best stuff not just hidden, but inaccessible to anyone but you (and the people you’re traveling with).

Sure, you could just trust the lock on your canopy, but what good is that in a smash-and-grab situation? Instead, opt for a storage system that deters thieves with its complexity. You want to make it difficult enough for them to the point where it requires tools for them to get in since almost all of these thefts are crimes of opportunity.

If you’ve got the must undercover truck at the trailhead or in the parking lot, the thief is likely to go after the easy mark or the one that screams “I’ve got a bunch of expensive stuff inside” (yeah, again looking at the VanLife people).

One reason I love a truck bed camping setup as opposed to many others — even rooftop tents — is just how discrete it is. Most people think it is just a truck with a canopy, not a home on wheels. But canopies are also pretty easy to break into, so I wouldn’t trust hundreds or thousands of dollars of gear to some canopy locks.

It is this reason that the gear platform style of truck camping setup is often chosen because one can have a relatively protected area (if there are additional locks) so the bad guys can’t get in easily, even if they smash your window.

That’s also part of the reason I made the transformer setup, so I could lock my tailgate to the elevated platform, effectively complicated the life of anyone trying to quickly steal my gear while I’m gone. Hasp locks, in particular, work wonders with this setup when it comes to keeping your belongings protected because you can actually lock your whole tailgate to the elevated platform.

Regardless of which type of setup you choose, you should have another locked or protected storage space inside your truck bed camping setup.

Not Camping in a Suitable Area

A great way to completely derail your truck camping adventure is to hunker down for the night in a place you shouldn’t. This takes many forms… You can park too close to the road and leave your truck prone to accidents. You can get too far off the beaten path and get stuck in the mud. You can even plant yourself on someone’s private property and find yourself in trouble with the authorities.

There are easy ways around this. Campgrounds, of course, provide the most straightforward answer, of course, then you will have to pay to spend the night… You can expect that to run you $20 or more per night. That’s fine for a weekend adventure, but if you’re going full-time, that would amount to at least $600 per month.

That’s why so many truck campers turn to free camping in the USA. I’ve camped almost everywhere imaginable, from the middle of dry lake beds, Las Vegas casino parking garages, Wal-Marts, gas stations, and every in between… And that’s just in the United States, don’t get me started on the overlanding adventures through all of Latin America.

Thanks to the stealthiness of your truck, you’ve got plenty of options that are under the radar too… In urban or suburban areas, you might park in a Wal-Mart parking lot, in the lot of another 24-hour business like a gym or Denny’s restaurant. One of my back up plans is to park at an auto mechanic shop right between some old rigs waiting to be worked on.

Pro Tip: Getting a cheap gym membership is also a great way to have access to showers. Make sure to find a good national gym, like 24 Hour Fitness, with lots of different locations if you are planning to be living out of your truck and on the road.

Of course, those places aren’t why you’re getting out there, those are just options for “in-between” — the real draw is to find awesome places to camp in mother nature. My go-to is the many Federal lands that allow free and unfettered access to vehicle camping opportunities, namely the Forest Service or BLM lands.

Pro Tip: If you’re planning a national park road trip then be sure to pick up the America the Beautiful annual pass which will save you tons of money on park entrance fees. My tactic is usually to visit the parks during the daytime and then find nearby free camping.

The two best places to find free (or cheap) campsites across the country and beyond are freecampsites.net and iOverlander.com. These are the first places I go when I’m looking for an affordable place to spend the night in my truck.

Sometimes the free campsites are actually pretty awesome themselves — maybe not quite National Park caliber, but you’ll usually find some beautiful nature, maybe some hiking trails (certainly nearby), and maybe even a rustic bathroom.

Don’t let your taste for adventure cloud your judgment. Being in a safe and suitable spot for the night is the key to happy truck camping adventures. Trust me!

Not Thinking About Your Power Setup

Electricity is crucial when you’re out on the road, even if it just means keeping your camera, cellphone, and computer charged up and ready to go. One of the most unwise ideas you can have is thinking power issues can be addressed on-the-fly. You need to know how to get power from under your hood to the truck bed. Are you good with just having a cigarette lighter hooked up in the canopy and running on DC?

You also need to determine how you’ll maintain power throughout your trip. The needs for someone just charging their cellphone are going to be totally different than someone running a mini-fridge back there. At the most basic level, you can charge devices off your main starter battery, but you should monitor it carefully and idle your truck at least once every one to two hours.

Do you know how much power you’ll need to use in an average day? What are you going to do about your car battery? Will you need to hook up a second battery and an isolator? Answer all these questions before hitting the road, otherwise, you’ll stare a major truck camping fail right in the face.

I would highly recommend getting a second battery and isolator installed though, as that will bring the worry factor about killing your starter battery and stranding you somewhere to nil. This was a huge upgrade for me and highly recommended.

Read more about getting a dual battery setup and isolator.

Getting Bad Gear

While truck bed camping doesn’t have the weight limits that backpacking or mountaineering entails, it is still important to consider the overall quality of your gear, the amount of space it takes up, and yes, at least consider the weight factor.

For one, you will still be camping, so quality gear that will not break, leave you stranded, hungry, cold, miserable, etc., is important.

Two, space is still limited in the back so if you buy bulky, cheap gear, you might quickly find that your living quarters have been drastically reduced. High-quality camping gear, especially of the backpacking slant, tend to be much more portable than their cheap counterparts.

Three, weight is still a consideration… Overpacking with heavy or bulky gear is going to impact your fuel economy at best, and at worst, it could cause complications for your suspension (especially if you overbuilt the back as discussed above).

That’s why it is still important to try and buy the best gear you can and try to ensure that most or many things can be multi-functional.

I’ve put together a massive guide about all the gear that I use, so be sure to check out my recommended truck camping gear and accessories. Don’t neglect fundamentals of your truck either…

That means a high-quality canopy (I use the Leer 122, but any elevated topper will do) and even nice tires that offer high clearance (I use the BF Goodrich T/A KO2s and love ’em).

Read more: my favorite truck camping accessories

Become a Better Truck Bed Camper

These eight truck bed camping mistakes are certainly avoidable. It just takes a little forethought and common sense, really. Plus, you’ve got the advantage of learning from my mistakes or the mistakes that I’ve seen others making in my years of truck bed camping experience.

Honestly, truck bed camping is one of the best and most affordable ways to get out there, travel more, and find more adventure, so it’s something that I recommend to almost anyone (who will listen to me).

If you are looking to take your truck camping to the next level, don’t miss out on signing up for my free email course with more hard-earned truck camping knowledge:

Read Next: The Ultimate Road Trip Planning Guide

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The most comfortable tree stands will mean you can sit for an all-day hunt without worrying about cramps, aches, pains etc.

But it’s not just about avoiding discomfort for the sake of it. (Any hunter worth their salt is willing to endure a little bit of pain to achieve success). But discomfort in a tree stand means you are more likely to shift about.

Every time you shift about, you risk giving away your position.

And so a comfortable tree stand (be it a climber, a hang on, or a ladder stand) has a practical purpose in addition to providing for our creature comforts.

The most comfortable tree stands we could find are detailed below. But if you want the top level summary:

• Millenium are widely considered to make the most comfortable hang on tree stands. The M100U is their most popular model (you can pick one up at Cabelas or Black Ovis or Amazon).
• The most comfortable climbing tree stand is generally thought to be the Summit Viper SD (also available at Cabelas or Amazon).
• The most comfortable ladder stand is almost certainly the Hawk Big Denali 1.5 (available at Sportsman’s Guide and Cabelas).

Most Comfortable Hang On Tree Stand – Millennium M100U

The Millennium M100 Ultralite is widely regarded as one of the most comfortable tree stands full stop (that’s out of all tree stands, not just lock ons).

The seat is 22″ x 17″ with 17″ of height. It’s a contoured “sling” design that uses Millenium’s patented ComfortMAX technology. Not exactly sure what that is but it is certainly comfy (and most hunters who’ve sat in one will attest to that fact)!

It’s got a sizeable platform at 20″ x 38″ (which is around 5.25 square feet). It’s not the biggest platform you can find with a hang on stand but there’s plenty of room to manoeuvre into position to take a shot.

Consider adding an M105 Footrest from Millennium to pimp out your stand, even more, taking your comfort to the next level.

The Millennium M100 is the most comfortable hang on tree stand, so if you like to post in your perch for hours at a time, this is the stand for you. Just be prepared that you might doze off!

Availability

The Millenium M100 Ultralite should be available from the following stores:

• Check princes at Amazon >>
• Check princes at Black Ovis >>
• Check princes at Scheels >>
• Check princes at Dick’s Sporting Goods >>

Another Comfortable Lock On Stand – Millenium M150 Monster

The Millennium M150 is one of the biggest hang on stands you can find. It’s a bit harder to hang than the M100, but that extra room and the adjustability of the seat makes it one of the best tree stands for big guys.

The 20″x17″ seat is adjustable between 16″ and 20″ from the platform. The platform is a massive 37″ x 24″. It’s rated for 300lbs and weighs a surprising 19.5lbs.

Millennium’s M150 is hard to beat. It is spacious, comfortable, and suitable for use on almost any tree, even if it’s leaning at a bit of an angle (up to 15 degrees). And if you want even more comfort, consider purchasing a footrest.

Availability

The Millenium M150 should be available from the following stores:

• Check prices on Amazon >>
• Check prices at Cabelas >>
• Check prices at Scheels >>

Most Comfortable Climbing Tree Stand – Summit Viper SD

The Summit Viper SD is hands down the most comfortable climbing tree stand you can buy today. It’s fairly lightweight, coming in at 20lbs. It’s rated for 300lbs. The 20″ x 36″ platform is a decent enough size. And the 18″ x 12″ x 20″ seat is so comfy you may just nod off.

The Viper SD also has a front rail made from aluminum that works great to support rifles, though not as much for bow hunters. The aluminum frame is constructed using DeadMetal, a sound deadening technology that reduces noise from the climbing tree stand to prevent making animals aware of your presence.

According to customers, this is a rock-sturdy stand that grips well on to abrasive tree stems such as pine and oak, but it tends to slide a little on sleek, wet surfaces. Another thing users praise is that the tree stand is very portable due to its relatively small seat, but the downfall with this is that larger people might struggle to fit onto the seat and the platform.

If you’re looking for the most comfortable climbing tree stand, the Viper SD is where it’s at. It features a seat, backrest, and armrests fully padded with foam and comfortable backpack straps, making it super portable and easy to carry. For larger people, it might be a little tight, but that’s where the Summit Goliath SD comes in…!

Availability

The Summit Viper SD seems to have good availability in a bunch of online stores. At the time of writing you could find them in the following places:

• Check prices at Amazon >>
• Check prices at Field & Stream >>
• Check prices at Cabelas >>
• Check prices at Walmart >>
• Check prices at Dick’s Sporting Goods >>
• Check prices at Scheels >>

Most Comfortable Ladder Stand

Hawk Hunting have been supplying the hunting community for over 50 years, during which time they’ve been at the forefront of hunting technology. It’s perhaps little wonder, then, that their ladder stands are widely considered to be the most comfortable tree stands a hunter can sit in.

They sell three tree stands: the Bighorn, the Sasquatch and the Big Denali. You can takes your pick as far as comfort goes, because the seat designs are approximately the same. But it’s the Big Denali 1.5 and the Big Denali 2-Man that we’re going to discuss here.

The Big Denali has everything you could possibly need from a tree stand in terms of comfort. The padded armrests feel almost like a couch, as does the seat itself. The flip-out footrest also does its part in keeping your feet and legs from getting cramp.

And if you’re hunting with a rifle, the adjustable shooting rail means you can get into position quickly, quietly and without hunching or stretching.

Availability

The Hawk Big Denali 1.5 should be available from the following stores:

The Hawk Big Denali 2 should be available from the following stores:

• Check prices at Cabelas >>
• Check prices on Amazon >>
• Check prices at Walmart >>

Another Comfortable Ladder Stand – Bolderton Outlander 360

The really awesome thing about the Bolderton Outlander 360 is the massive platform and the swivel seat. So in addition to being supremely comfortable you have a massive field of vision.

It’s a 19′ ladder stand. Its comfortable mesh seat is on a huge, hexagonal platform that gives you a lot of room to stretch. And it has a bunch of built-in camouflage blind panels to keep you concealed.

It’s an absolute beast to put up (and will probably require you to bribe a couple of buddies with some beer to help you). But once it’s up the swivel chair is so comfortable you could just as easily be in the office.

Availability

The Bolderton Outlander 360 should be available from the following stores:

• Sportsman’s Guide >>
• Amazon >>

Conclusion

Whether you’re looking for a hang on stand, a climbing stand or a ladder stand, comfort is probably the most important thing to most people after they’re comfortable that the kit is as silent as possible.

The hunting community are pretty much as one voice on the most comfortable tree stands:

For a comfortable ladder stand go with Hawk Big Denali 1.5.

For the most comfortable lock on stands go with a Millenium from their M-Series (like the Millenium M100U or the M150).

And for the most comfortable climbing tree stands, it’s Summit every time, specifically the Summit Viper SD.

Related Articles: feel free to check out more tree stand recommendations including the best ladder stands, the best hang on stands and the best climbing tree stands.

FAQs

What Is the Most Comfortable Climbing Tree Stand?

The most comfortable climbing tree stand is ultimately a matter of personal preference. However, we reckon the most comfortable climber (and we’re not alone) is the Summit Viper SD…

Fish also make a viable bait source, which is great for those of us who love to spend time angling as well as hunting. They can be used in many of the same ways as the above methods: just save the heads and guts in the freezer and make a pile.

One of the main ways they’re used as bait by experienced coyote trappers and hunters, however, is by salting them. When salted, the fish can be kept almost indefinitely without making your house reek or taking up room in your freezer that could probably be better used by stocking with more edible game.

It’s not a bait of last resort, it’s actually quite effective, but it is a bit specialized when it comes to making sure you have some on hand.

Related: “When Is The Best Time To Hunt Coyotes?” Searching For The Perfect Shot

6. Chicken liver

This is one of the most popular baits for coyote, and it’s not hard to see why. It’s a strong scent that will often bring them in from long distances, and they love to eat it.The main downside of using chicken liver as bait is that it can be expensive if you go through alot of it, and it doesn’t store well. You can’t just keep a bunch in your freezer like you can with some of the other types of baits on this list.You’ll have to either use it fresh or find a way to preserve it, which means figuring out how to keep it from going bad too quickly or learning how to salt it properly so that it lasts a bit longer.

8.) Coyote urine

If you want to guarantee that a coyote is going to show up, using coyote urine as bait is about as close as you can get. You can purchase it online or at many sporting goods stores, and all you have to do is let it drip onto the ground near where you’ll be waiting with your gun.The downside to using this method is that it can be quite expensive if you go through alot of it, and it also doesn’t store well. Once opened, a bottle of coyote urine will only last for a few months before it starts to lose its potency.You’ll also want to be sure that you don’t use too much, as the coyote will be able to smell it from quite a distance and if there’s too much they may just avoid the area altogether. A little goes a long way with this method.

9.) Fruits and vegetables

You might not think of fruits and vegetables as being good bait for coyote, but in reality they can be quite effective. This is especially true if you happen to live near an area where farmers are growing crops. Apples, watermelons, and other fruits make excellent bait, as do corn and other vegetables. The key is to find a way to keep them from going bad too quickly. One method is to soak them in salt water overnight, which will help to preserve them.You can also add some sugar to the mix, which will make the bait even more irresistible to coyotes. Just be sure not to use too much or you’ll end up attracting bears and other large animals that you don’t want to deal with.

10.) Bacon

Bacon is another bait that can be quite effective, but it shares many of the same drawbacks as chicken liver. It’s a strong scent that will often bring coyotes in from long distances, but it doesn’t store well and can be quite expensive if you go through alot of it.You can keep bacon fresh for a few days by wrapping it in plastic and stored in a cool, dry place, but after that it will start to go bad. You can also salt it or smoke it to help preserve it, but this will change the taste and smell somewhat.

11.) Coyote food

One of the best baits you can use is something that the coyote would normally eat. This could be anything from a small animal to a piece of meat that you’ve been able to trap.The key is to make sure the bait is fresh, and that you’re using something that the coyote is likely to be attracted to. You can also use a scent attractant to help bring them in, but this isn’t always necessary.

12.) Sausage

Sausage is another type of meat that can be quite effective as bait for coyote, but it has the same drawbacks as bacon. It’s a strong scent that will often bring them in from long distances, but it doesn’t store well and can be quite expensive if you go through alot of it.You can keep sausage fresh for a few days by wrapping it in plastic and stored in a cool, dry place, but after that it will start to go bad. You can also salt it or smoke it to help preserve it, but this will change the taste and smell somewhat.

13.Kitten food

Kitten food can be an effective bait for coyote. The key is to use something that is fresh and that the coyote is likely to be attracted to. You can also use a scent attractant to help bring them in, but this isn’t always necessary.

14.Cheese

Cheese is a common bait that can be used to catch many different types of animals, and it also works well for coyote. The key is to use something that is fresh and that the coyote is likely to be attracted to. You can also use a scent attractant to help bring them in, but this isn’t always necessary.

The Chrysler/Dodge/Ram 5.7L and 6.4L HEMI engines power similar cars and trucks. This makes the comparison common as many wonder which engine is the best fit. Ultimately, 6.4 and 5.7 HEMI engines likely both have plenty to offer for most owners. With two great engine options it can be hard to pull the trigger but worry not. In this guide, we compare 6.4 vs 5.7 HEMI engine specs, reliability, performance, price, and more.

*5.7L and 6.4L HEMI engines are also known as the 345 HEMI and 392 HEMI, respectively. These numbers represent the engines displacement in cubic inches. We may refer to the engines by these names in this article.

Dodge HEMI Engine Specs

Below is a chart showing specs for the 5.7 vs 6.4 HEMI V8 engines:

Specs for the 5.7 and 6.4 HEMI engine are pretty straight-forward. They share many things in common especially when looking at similar year engines. Anyway, both share their V8 HEMI pushrod design with 2 valves per cylinder. 345 HEMI and 392 HEMI engines also both use cast iron blocks with aluminum heads.

We’ll avoid spoiling all of the details regarding horsepower and torque for now. Of course, the 6.4 HEMI is the more capable engine. Its larger displacement and output give it the edge. There is more to look at regarding 5.7 vs 6.4 HEMI power and torque curves. This topic will come up in a few sections when we discuss performance.

*2009+ 5.7 HEMI engines went through a fairly big update. MDS and variable valve timing were two of the major updates. 6.4 HEMI engines use this technology, too. Point is – the older 345 HEMI’s are a bit different since they lack this tech.

What Cars Use These Engines?

6.4 vs 5.7 HEMI engines are in the following years and models:

As shown above – the 5.7 HEMI is an engine option in a few models that do not offer the 6.4L engine. It’s also the older engine dating back to 2003 while the 6.4 HEMI didn’t come out until 2011. However, Chrysler did offer the 6.4L since 2007 as a crate engine with the name 392 HEMI.

Anyway, the common them is that the 5.7 is a base engine in many models with the R/T badge. On the other hand, 6.4 HEMI engines often receive the SRT8, SRT, and 392 Scat Pack designations.

5.7 vs 6.4 HEMI V8 Performance

Writing engine comparison guides can be challenging. Most engines are found in various models and years – as with these two HEMI engines. The following theme will apply to much of this article: it’s tough to get specific on a model and year basis. As such, we won’t be diving into 0-60, 1/4 mile times, or other specific performance factors.

There is still plenty to talk about when it comes to 6.4 vs 5.7 HEMI performance, though. The 6.4 HEMI generally offers an extra 75-100 horsepower over the 5.7 engine. Thanks to larger displacement the 392 is also good for an extra 60-80 lb-ft. Low-end torque is also about 70 lb-ft more than the 5.7 further widening the gap between the two. However, power and torque are a smaller difference on Ram trucks as the 392 truck version is tuned for better economy and towing.

There’s no replacement for displacement. Clearly, this saying holds true in the 5.7 vs 6.4 HEMI comparison. These engines share similar design and tech, and the larger displacement HEMI simply has the edge. That’s not to say the 5.7L V8 is a slouch by any means. Rather, if you’re looking for all-out performance or towing then the 6.4 HEMI is the clear pick.

Winner: 6.4L HEMI

Aftermarket Potential

Bear with a few duplicate comments here as it’s the same concept as above. Larger displacement takes the win when it comes to tuning, modding, and aftermarket performance potential. If power and performance are the end goal the Dodge 6.4L V8 is our pick.

We looked at similar mileage 2016 Dodge R/T Challengers with the 5.7 HEMI vs the 6.4 HEMI R/T Scat Pack. The difference in price ranges from about $5,000 to $10,000 with the 392 HEMI the more expensive option (as you likely guessed).

Buy a 345 HEMI, use the left over money on upgrades, and you can certainly end up with the more powerful engine. Now, it’s fair to point out some of the many counter arguments here. Add the same mods to a 6.4L V8 and it will be more powerful. Also, no matter how many upgrades you add to the 5.7 HEMI it will never be the 6.4L.

Aside from all of that – both of these engines have plenty of aftermarket support. It’s not hard to find what you’re looking for whether you choose the 345 or 392 engine. Don’t miss out on our best 5.7 HEMI upgrades and 6.4 HEMI upgrade guides if you’re looking for more info.

Winner: 6.4 HEMI

Dodge 6.4 vs 5.7 HEMI Reliability

Reliability is an easy subject for me to discuss. I wrote in-depth articles about reliability and common engine problems for each engine; the links are just below in the next section for those wanting to learn more. In this article we’ll just scrape the surface and discuss some of the basics.

The 6.4 and 5.7 HEMI both offer good reliability overall. As with any engine, they’re prone to their share of problems and failures. We think both engines deserve average to above average remarks for reliability. Don’t expect Honda or Toyota-like maintenance and repairs, though.

Keep in mind we’re talking about performance engines. Repairs tend to be a bit more expensive when problems do occur. Basic maintenance items can also be pricier.

Which one is better, though? It’s impossible to say for sure. It’s likely the 6.4 HEMI vs 5.7 HEMI will offer similar reliability. Most of it simply comes down to maintenance and luck of the draw. Some 6.4L engines hold up beyond 300,000 miles while others die much sooner. The same can be said for the Dodge 345 too.

Winner: Tie

Engine Problems

Issues between the two engines are pretty similar. Keep in mind – problems may appear worse or more common on the 5.7L V8. It’s the older and more popular engine on the road. As such, there’s more info out there for the 5.7 HEMI which can make problems seem more widespread. On the contrary, there are more high mileage 345’s out there.

Ultimately, both engines share many of the same common problems – such as the HEMI Multi-Displacement System (MDS). As stated previously, these engines offer similar reliability and which one is better often comes down to maintenance and some luck of the draw. Anyway, check out the below articles for more information on some common engine problems:

345 HEMI Engine Problems

392 HEMI Engine Problems

5.7 vs 6.4 Hemi Price

In the section about aftermarket performance we touched on 5.7 vs 6.4 HEMI price briefly. The price difference when looking at similar model, trim, age, mileage, etc remains around the $5,000 to $10,000 mark. It doesn’t always hold true since there can be other factors that affect price. Regardless, the 5.7 HEMI is generally the cheaper option.

Additionally, 5.7 HEMI engines have been around since 2003. There isn’t a way to make a fair comparison with the 6.4L V8 in this case. It just means the 5.7 is the budget friendly option even if it means buying an older car. The age and higher production also do the 345 HEMI favors when it comes to parts, replacement engines, so on.

Winner: 5.7 HEMI

345 vs 392 HEMI Fuel Economy/MPG

This is a pretty quick topic since it’s impossible to get extremely specific. 5.7 vs 6.4 HEMI fuel economy depends on many individual factors. Year, model, drivetrain, conditions, driving habit, etc all play major roles. That said, the 5.7 HEMI engine will deliver better fuel economy if all else is equal.

There are situations where the 6.4 HEMI actually provides better MPG than the 5.7L engine, though. Does the Dodge car or truck have MDS technology? Some Dodge 5.7 HEMI engines have this tech while others do not. A 392 equipped with MDS vs a 345 without MDS is a different story.

Nonetheless, we could go on all day debating which engine in which configuration provides better fuel economy. However, the point remains. The smaller 345 cubic inch engine should deliver better MPG – all else equal.

Winner: 5.7 HEMI

Towing Capacity

Vague concepts continue when it comes to 6.4 vs 5.7 HEMI towing capacity. There are too many configurations that affect towing as much or more than the specific engine. Anyway, you guessed it. Dodge 6.4 HEMI’s are the better option when it comes to towing.

Not only does it offer more power and torque, but it’s also better tuned for towing. Low-end torque is a big improvement on the 392 cubic inch engine. It’s generally going to offer the most towing capacity and pull similar weights with more ease. Although, the 5.7 V8 isn’t a slouch and may be more than enough for many.

Winner: 6.4 HEMI

Dodge 345 vs 392 HEMI Summary

Chrysler, Dodge, and Ram offer the 6.4L and 5.7L HEMI engines in many similar models. The engines also share similar design and technology. It makes for a common discussion and comparison between the two. Picking the right engine for you can also be complicated since both engines have plenty to offer.

The saying, “there’s no replacement for displacement” holds true here. Dodge 6.4 V8 HEMI engines simply offer more performance and towing vs the 5.7 HEMI. The 5.7 HEMI takes the win for price, parts availability, and fuel economy. They’re both pretty reliable engines, so that’s a wash.

In summary, if all-out performance or towing capacity is your goal then the 6.4 HEMI is likely the best choice. Those who want a great overall balance of performance, MPG, towing, and price will find joy in the 5.7L V8. Either way, we believe it’s hard to go wrong with the 345 or 392 HEMI engines.

What’s your experience with these engines? Are you considering one?

Leave a comment and let us know!

Rocky Fork Whitetails offers the ultimate World Class Whitetail Deer Hunting Lodge for Tennessee residents.

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(410) 984-8680 • [email protected]

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Whether managing a piece of property and its timber, cutting in trails, or doing big business deals, it is best to think of tomorrow. In a society that is obsessed with instant gratification and an “I need to have it all today” mentality, true long-term thinkers who care about preservation have become rare commodities. At SHOT Show I had the privilege to sit with and interview the hunting industry icon and my friend, Bill Jordan, a man who lives for preservation and for a better tomorrow. Since my younger days in Betamax and VCR format, I have watched Jordan and his Realtree Monster Buck videos. I have donned Realtree camo in the woods for as long as I can remember. In case it isn’t obvious, I am a pretty big Bill Jordan and Realtree fan.

I interviewed Bill for my upcoming book and he was generous enough with his time to meet in between some major deals Realtree was negotiating at the show, but that is the kind of guy Jordan is. The interview inspired me enough to blog about it as well as feature a chapter around his story in my upcoming book. Above being a brilliant, powerful visionary, and a true industry leader, the coolest thing about Jordan and what he himself is most proud of is what has spawned from his Realtree empire for others that got their start with him. He glows when talking about how proud he is of all of the people that today have become industry leaders and have succeeded in their own right. I asked Jordan if he ever takes time to drive his Chevy pickup truck out to a quiet spot on his hunting property to sit and think about the empire he has created.

“What I am most proud of is all of the great talent that has come from Realtree and that today enjoys great individual success. Seeing people like Michael Waddell, Nick Mundt, Travis T Bone Turner, Lee and Tiffany Lakosky, and so many others that started with Realtree succeed and help grow the industry is what makes me proudest. I guess I don’t think so much about my success; I really think about all of the great talent that Realtree helped to cultivate. That is my proudest accomplishment I suppose. Well, that and building a business that my son Tyler can step into and follow in my footsteps, if that is what he chooses to do long-term,” Jordan explained.

What really strikes me as I type away on my Delta flight home is the genuine Southern tone in Bill’s voice, the softer humble side of Bill Jordan. It occurs to me that Bill does not really know just how great he is or just how powerful he has become. When you get deep with Jordan, it is clear that he is basically the same humble, energy-infused kid loaded with a deep passion for the sport of hunting and for creating a product that is second to none. Nearly three decades ago he was at his first SHOT Show, where he got his breakthrough moment in business when he cracked the code on how to enter the licensing market and changed the landscape of the camouflage industry.

What I find most special about Bill Jordan beyond his incredible vision, intense focus, competitive spirit, and inspirational personality, is his focus and care about what he is doing today: creating a better tomorrow and what his personal success has spawned for others.

When it comes to the debate of longbow versus recurve, there are several factors to consider.

The longbow is traditional, requiring skill and strength for its longer draw length, while the recurve bow is more compact and versatile, with a shorter draw length but still offering speed and accuracy.

Longbows lack those swept tips, but their limbs bend gracefully throughout the bow’s length. Recurve bows draw more smoothly, in general, but bow designs play significant roles in how they draw.

Well-designed longbows can be incredibly smooth, especially if their length matches the archer’s draw length. Taller archers, for example, find longer bows smoother to draw than shorter bows. If you have to buy between the two, shoot some recurves and longbows at an archery shop, and choose the one that puts the biggest smile on your face.

Longbow

The longbow, with its simple design and long limbs, has a rich historical background and offers a sense of traditional archery. It requires a higher level of skill and strength to shoot effectively, but its longer draw length can deliver impressive power and accuracy. Longbows are ideal for

• Casual shooting
• Target shooting
• Field shooting
• 3d archery
• Hunting

Recurve

The recurve bow, with its curved limbs, provides a more compact and maneuverable option. It is favored by many modern archers due to its versatility and ease of use. The recurve bow’s shorter draw length can still generate considerable speed and accuracy, making it popular for target shooting and competitive archery.

A recurve bow stores more energy and delivers energy more efficiently than the equivalent straight-limbed bow, giving a greater amount of energy and speed to the arrow. this is currently the only bow type allowed in the Olympic games.

Some advantages are as follows:

• Recurves offer great power, speed, and accuracy over longbows.
• Recurve bows retain speed/power at lighter draw weights, which can be increased by purchasing new limbs
• Recurves can be broken down, making them easy to store and transport.
• Recurve bows are very versatile as they’re an accepted bow type in many different archery disciplines.
• Recurves can be used for hunting because of the increased speed/power.

Recurve vs Longbow for Beginners

When choosing between a recurve bow and a longbow for beginners, consider versatility and tradition. Recurve bows offer adaptability and are versatile for various archery styles, while longbows have a classic charm and a steeper learning curve due to their traditional design

Range

In general, recurve bows have a slightly longer effective range than longbows, usually up to 60-70 yards due to their design allowing for better energy storage and transfer.

Longbows, while still capable, typically have a slightly shorter range of around 50-60 yards.

Archer’s skill also plays a significant role in range and accuracy.

Accuracy

When it comes to longbow vs recurve accuracy, recurves are generally more accurate but only when an archer uses the proper form.

The synthetic materials of recurve allow economic, predictable manufacture for consistent performance.

The greater mass of a modern bow is in itself an aid to stability, and therefore accuracy.

Arrow Speed

In terms of arrow velocity, recurve bows typically have a slight advantage over longbows due to their design, allowing for more energy storage and faster arrow speeds.

For Hunting

When deciding between a recurve bow and a longbow for hunting, the choice hinges on your hunting style and personal preferences.

Recurve bows offer versatility, adjustability, and good arrow speed, making them suitable for various game and hunting scenarios, while longbows excel in stealth and offer a traditional hunting experience, albeit requiring more skill for accuracy due to their longer draw length.

Ultimately, the decision should align with your hunting approach and comfort with each bow’s characteristics, ensuring a successful and enjoyable hunting experience.

Material

The traditional construction of a longbow consists of drying the yew wood for 1 to 2 years, then slowly working the wood into shape, with the entire process taking up to four years. The bow stave is shaped to have a D cross-section.

The recurve consists of limbs and a riser (the center section of the bow). The limbs are usually made from multiple layers of fiberglass, carbon, and/or wood on a core of carbon foam or wood. The riser is generally separate and is constructed from wood, carbon, aluminum alloy, or magnesium alloy.

Bow Noise

A bow that shoots quietly is a top feature for many of today’s archers. When it comes to generating bow noise, vibrations and the twang of the bowstring are responsible. Longbows are quieter than recurves because the string doesn’t hit the limbs as much, in turn resulting in less string slap.

String

Longbow strings are made of hemp, flax, or silk, and attached to the wood via horn “nocks” that fit onto the end of the bow. Modern synthetic materials are now commonly also used for strings in recurve. The cord of the recurve attaches to both limb tips and transforms stored energy from the limbs into kinetic energy in the arrow

Smoothness

Recurves generally have a smoother draw when compared to longbows. However, a longbow can also be smooth if the length of the bow matches the archer’s draw length. Most archers want a smooth drawing bow so they choose to recurve.

Size and Mobility

Recurves are generally smaller than longbows. Longbows range in size from 5 ½ feet to 6 feet or more. While there are a few takedown longbow options available, the majority of longbows don’t offer this option.

Portability

Recurve easily break into smaller pieces to transport them from one place to another. Takedown longbows are very popular because recurve is so easy to transport.

Adjustability

Recurves have more tuning options, making them much more versatile. Recurve bows allow the use of arrow rest, sights, stabilizers, and some bows allow you to swap out different limbs. While the longbow lacks these characteristics.

Modern Use

No English longbows survive from the period when the longbow was dominant (c. 1250-1450), probably because bows became weaker, broke, and were replaced rather than being handed down through generations.

The modern recurve is the only form of bow permitted in the Olympics (though the compound bow is permitted in some categories at the Paralympic Games) and is the most widely used by European and Asian sporting archers.

Hunting Performance

Some modern hunting recurves are one-piece bows. Hunters often prefer one-piece bows over take-down bows, because the limb pockets on take-down bows can make unwanted noise while drawing.

Even though both bow types work well for hunting, recurves tend to generate more power. Speed and power are important in hunting situations for accuracy and humane reasons. Due to the less accuracy and less power longbow is very rarely used in hunting.

Nostalgia

Longbows have a long history and were the original bow design. This is the bow type for archers who enjoy the historical appeal of medieval archery. While longbows may have been the original bow design, there’s no need to rule out recurve bows.

Availability

Availability of longbow vs recurve. Recurves are now considered to be the modern standard as this bow type provides archers with many options. This means you can expect to see a much larger selection of recurve bows available for purchase vs longbows.

If you’re a competitive archer who wants to participate in tournaments, clubs, and/or the Olympics, choosing a recurve is the right bow choice for you.

Social Importance

The importance of the longbow in English culture can be seen in the legends of Robin Hood, which increasingly depicted him as a master archer, and also in the “Song of the Bow”, a poem from The White Company by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle.

Vandal Savage showed talents with a composite recurve bow on the Young Justice episode Evolution.

CONCLUSION

Now that we’ve covered the similarities and differences between recurves and longbows, you should have a better idea of what is right for you. Since each bow type comes with its unique benefits, you must decide which one will best support your style of shooting. You can read here is a recurve bow better than a longbow?

The lightweight and quiet longbows make for a basic, fun way to try archery. While the high performance, small size, and large availability of recurve bows help provide more accuracy and precision.

Did you follow your favorite archery manufacturer’s social media channels during their coverage of the 2024 ATA Show in January? Did you spy something that enticed you to upgrade, or are you a new archer in need of your first set of equipment? Many manufacturers debut new products during the Show, so there was a lot to see. Wherever you’re at in your archery journey, there’s something out there for you. We compiled a roundup of a few of the many items that debuted at the 2024 ATA Show, via the New Product Launch Showcase, below.

Bear Archery Products

Bear Archery Products launched a 90th anniversary edition of its Grizzly bow. At heart, it’s the same Grizzly bow that Bear has previously produced, a traditional bow designed by Fred Bear himself, but with a new “Green Glass” color scheme and a 90th anniversary logo. Caleb Sorrells, marketing manager for Bear Archery, noted that the new bow has been well received and he predicts that it will do well for Bear. “It will be a great collector’s item on top of being a great bow,” Sorrells said. It’s available in right- or left-hand styles and in six draw weight options from 35 pounds to 60 pounds. It features a crowned, cut-on center arrow shelf with a leather side plate and a bear hair arrow rest. As always, the bow is handcrafted here in the U.S.

PSE Archery

PSE Archery debuted multiple bows at the 2024 ATA Show, including the Fortis. “The 2024 Fortis optimizes and enhances PSE’s most stable and efficient hunting platform, elevating your shooting experience to the highest levels,” PSE said in a Facebook post about the bow. It can shoot up to 345 feet per second and has PSE’s full draw stability system, EZ.220 Snap Spacers for easier tuning, a new Kill-Shok Damper to reduce bow vibration, a new Traxion Tech Grip and a Picatinny rail to mount your sight. You can choose from the EC2, E2 and S2 cams.

A PSE Facebook post lists the 2024 Nock On Unite as “meticulously engineered to John Dudley’s specifications.” It also comes with the EC2, E2 or S2 cam and is equipped with PSE’s full draw stability system, EZ.220 Snap Spacers and a Picatinny rail. The PSE Facebook post also says the bow delivers “maximum forgiveness with greater speeds.”

T.R.U. Ball/Axcel

Axcel’s new Ranger Pin is an upgraded sight pin on the AXCEL Landslyde sights. With the new Ranger Pin, the distance from the top pin to the bottom pin is .225 inch. The sight can be used for distances between 20 and 40 yards.

T.R.U. Ball’s new Trident handle release is the “first-ever high-end thumb activated target and hunting release that automatically resets itself without any lag. It immediately fires under bow poundage,” according to the T.R.U. Ball website. The website also lists the release as having an ultra-crisp trigger and an ultra-flex personalized fit system with an adjustable three-finger piece that offers 30 degrees of radial rotation, 15 degrees forward and 15 degrees backward.

The Antler Ridge Hunting Stabilizer Kit comes with a 12-inch front bar, a 10-inch back bar, a front and back Kryptos Arc vibration dampener, an Antler Ridge Trilock adjustable offset mount, a zero-degree Centerlock quick disconnect, two 2-ounce Black Nitride weights on the front bar and two 2-ounce Black Nitride weights on the back bar.

The new Axcel Achieve XP 1.5 and Achieve XP 2.0 sights remove up to 1 ounce from the target end of the sight and are designed to improve balance and reduce vibration, according to a video by T.R.U. Ball. You can also adjust all three of the sight axes and you can align the scope to your eye. It also has a new variable range plate that accommodates compound and recurve archers and is designed for fixed-distance and multi-distance tournaments, so you can use the same sight for all your tournaments.

Next Steps

Eager to place an order for some new gear after seeing this preview? Check out each of the companies’ websites to learn more about the products. Upgrading your gear can be a great way to reinvigorate your passion for the sport. We all love products that make things a little easier, give us more options, or are simply neat to look at and archery gear is no exception.

Visit or call your local archery shop to see if they have the products you’re interested in in stock.

Many Wisconsin anglers have the first Saturday in May circled on their calendars. That’s because the date marks the Wisconsin walleye opener on most inland waters. Opening-day conditions can vary greatly from year to year and from one end of the state to the other. In the north, some lakes may just be losing their ice cover and spawning may just be starting. In the south, walleyes usually have finished spawning and have turned their attention to food.

Walleyes, more than most other species, move from one place to another both seasonally and on a daily basis. Understanding those movement patterns is the first step to successful walleye fishing. That’s especially true during the first few weeks of the season. The second step is to use a presentation that will trigger strikes given the time of year, time of day, and the weather and water conditions. Regardless of where you fish, you can count on finding cold water in early May, which means you’ll want to slow down and scale down your presentation.

LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION

In the case of walleyes, “relocation, relocation, relocation” might be more accurate. In Wisconsin lakes and reservoirs, walleyes migrate from winter habitat to spawning areas and then to spring and summer habitat, all in a period of several weeks. Learn to identify each of those habitat types and when to expect walleyes to move from one to another and you should be able to catch them during the spawning period, when they move the farthest and their behavior changes the most.

By the time the Wisconsin walleye opener occurs, most walleyes have already moved to pre-spawn staging areas. These are usually areas of intermediate depth located very close to good spawning substrate. In deep lakes, walleyes often stage just off the main break between shallow flats and deep water. In shallow lakes and reservoirs, they may stage just outside weed flats, below subtle breaks of only a foot or so, in channels and off creek and river mouths.

SPAWNING HABITAT

In landlocked lakes, walleyes normally spawn on shallow rocks, rubble and gravel washed clean and aerated by wave action. That type of substrate is often found along shorelines, on mid-lake reefs and around islands. Walleyes also spawn on sand, submerged timber or even muck, if nothing better is available.

In reservoirs, lakes with tributaries or outlets, and lakes that are part of a chain of lakes, walleyes migrate as far as they have to in order to reach suitable spawning areas. They may go many miles upstream, downstream or through several lakes to find the gravel and rock structure they need.

TIMING THE SPAWNING RUN

Walleyes migrate to spawning areas several weeks before they actually spawn. On northern waters, this migration often takes place under the ice. Spawning begins when the water temperature reaches 42 degrees. Most spawning concludes by the time the water temperatures reach the low 50s.

Most walleye spawning takes place at night, but walleyes remain in staging areas during daylight hours throughout the spawning period and for several days thereafter before they disperse. Staging areas often hold great concentrations of walleyes, usually grouped by sex and size. The smaller males often remain close to spawning gravel, while larger females stay farther away in slightly deeper water.

An early spring can cause walleyes to begin their migration earlier than normal, while prolonged winter weather can push the entire process back a week or so. Year in and year out, however, the spawning run usually follows the same schedule within a few days, depending on the latitude of the lake in question. In southern Wisconsin, spawning normally is in full swing the first week of April. Farther north, spawning takes place in late April or early May.

PRE-SPAWN TECHNIQUES

Walleyes tend to be sluggish during the pre-spawn period, when water temperatures are in the 30s. Slow, deliberate presentations work best then. Action may be best during the afternoon, when the water has had a chance to warm up slightly. A leadhead jig tipped with a small minnow is a good bait choice.

Anchor or use a trolling motor to stay over a staging area where you have marked fish and work a jig-and-minnow vertically with a short lift/drop, lift/drop action, or drag it slowly across the bottom. Inactive walleyes usually take a bait as it drops. Rather than a decisive strike, you may simply feel a weight when you lift your rod. If so, hold it steady for a moment. If the weight begins to move, set the hook.

If there is a light breeze blowing in the right direction, you can drift over staging areas with a bottom-bouncer and a floating jighead or plain hook tipped with a minnow. Again, set the hook when you feel any resistance that moves.

When fishing staging areas from shore, cast a jig out to deep water and crawl it back to you. You may lose a few jigs, but that is a good way to cover an area thoroughly.

In reservoirs, start below a dam or inlet mouth and work deep water thoroughly with a jig-and-minnow. If that doesn’t produce fish, gradually move downstream, probing shallow bars, eddies and backwaters. Shallow, submerged wood can be very productive now, as the dark wood absorbs the sun’s heat and warms up the surrounding water. Shallow-running crankbaits often take good fish in timber.

Vary lure color and size until you find what the fish want. If they stop hitting or if the weather or water clarity change, try a different size or color. Generally, use smaller, brighter baits in colder water, fluorescent colors in dark water, and natural colors in clear water.

FISHING DURING THE SPAWN

Daytime action often drops off sharply once walleyes begin to spawn. Night-fishing in shallow spawning areas can be very productive, though. Try longline trolling over gravel bars, shoreline points, reefs and weed flats with floating minnow baits like a Rapala or ThunderStick. Use a zigzag trolling pattern to give baits an erratic action that often triggers strikes. On reservoirs, use side-planer boards to troll shallow-running baits along shoreline riprap.

If you fish during the day, work staging areas carefully with a lightweight jig tipped with a small minnow or plastic tail. If all you catch are small, aggressive males, move around and keep jigging until you locate a group of females. They’ll usually be holding below the next break to deeper water.

POST-SPAWN TRANSITION

After spawning, walleyes scatter and feed voraciously during a brief transition period before they move to summer habitat. During the transition, they may be just about anywhere there is food. They often move into very shallow water because it is warmer and because they find hatching insects and young perch and other baitfish there. Since they are rarely as concentrated now as during the spawning period or when they school up again in summer, you’ll take one here, one there, so it’s best to move around and cover a lot of water. Trolling or casting shallow-running crankbaits over shallow mud flats, gravel bars, rockpiles, points and emerging weeds will take fish both day and night during the transition.

Vary these techniques depending on where you are fishing and whether spring weather is early or late in coming. The best indicator of the progress of walleye spawning is water temperature, so check it daily to help plan your approach. Now let’s look at a half-dozen of the state’s best early-season walleye waters.

BIG CEDAR LAKE

Washington County’s Big Cedar Lake harbors some big walleyes, but they are a challenge to catch in the clear water. Big Cedar covers 932 acres and has a maximum depth of 105 feet in the south basin. That basin holds most of the lake’s walleyes. A honey of a gravel bar rises to within 8 feet or so of the surface in the basin, and another one comes up out of a 20-foot saddle at the mouth of the outlet bay to Cedar Creek along the east shore. Both of those humps and the entire east shore fall off so abruptly that a mountain goat would have trouble keeping its footing there if it were dry land.

Look for post-spawn females along the drops during the day and on top of the bars in the evening and at night. Jigging works well in the deeper water, while flatline trolling with shallow-running stickbaits will take some nice fish on top of the bars. Use planer boards to troll close to shore.

BIG GREEN LAKE

At 237 feet, Big Green is Wisconsin’s deepest lake. Like Big Cedar, this is a two-tier fishery, with lake trout and ciscoes in the deeper water and bass, walleyes, northerns and muskies in the shallower portions. The lake’s walleyes grow fat on ciscoes and other forage. Some of them migrate up Silver Creek at the east end or Spring Creek at the west end to spawn. Others spawn on the lake’s gravel bars.

When the season first opens, try near those two inlets, but avoid the posted fish refuge at the Silver Creek inlet. Two large bars at the east end and two smaller bars just south of Malcolm Bay are also good spots in spring. With a west wind, the stretch along the north shore from Lone Tree Point to Malcolm Bay is a great walleye drift with live chubs or shiners.

Contacts: Schroeder’s Sports Shop, (920) 294-6462; Green Lake Marina, (920) 294-3625 www.greenlakemarina.com; Norton’s Guide Service, (920) 294-3617, www.nortonsfishingandhuntingadventures.com.

HIGH FALLS FLOWAGE

At 1,700 acres, High Falls is the largest of several reservoirs created by power dams that tame the brawling Peshtigo River. Like the river, the flowage is stained dark brown, limiting visibility to 3 or 4 feet. Countless rock bars make navigation hazardous but provide excellent spawning and feeding habitat for walleyes.

In May, look for walleyes in the northern half of the flowage, above the Highway X bridge. You’ll find spawners right in the stumps and on the shallow bars at the north end. Larger females will hold in the old river channel. A slip-bobber rig or lightweight jig tipped with a fathead minnow will take walleyes in spring.

“To avoid snagging in rocks and to help you feel a pick-up, go with the lightest jig you can manage,” says fishing guide Mike Mladenik.

Eight free public landings maintained by Wisconsin Public Service Corporation provide good access to all parts of the flowage.

Contacts: Popp’s Resort, (715) 757-3511, www.poppsresort.com; Mladenik’s Guide Service, (715) 854-2055, www.mikemladenik.com.

THREE LAKES CHAIN

The Three Lakes Chain is actually a string of 17 lakes on the Eagle River in Oneida County. Burnt Rollways Dam separates the Three Lakes Chain from the Eagle River Chain. Some folks just call them the upper and lower chain. Most of the lakes are stained a medium brown, which limits visibility and helps walleyes stay active during daylight hours.

An abundance of mid-lake structure on Planting Ground, Long and Big Stone lakes holds walleyes in spring. Deep water on Big Stone and Medicine lakes harbors ciscoes, which help produce some big walleyes. Most anglers use jigs and minnows for early-season walleyes there, as motor trolling is not permitted.

Contacts: Eagle Sports Center, (9715) 479-8804, www.eaglesportscenter.com; Guide’s Choice, (715) 477-2248, www.guideschoiceproshop.com; Tadpole’s Sports, (715) 479-6641, www.tadpolessports.com.

MCKENZIE LAKES

This trio of lakes located in Washburn County offers some of the best walleye fishing in the region. Upper (Big) McKenzie covers 1,185 acres, Middle McKenzie 530 and Lower McKenzie 180 acres. The two larger lakes have similar structure, with abundant gravel bars and adjacent deep water. Walleyes move freely between them via McKenzie Creek.

Walleye fishing is usually very good on the larger lakes when the season opens in May. Minnows work well now because baitfish populations are at their lowest at this time of year. Try the gravel bars at the north end of Upper McKenzie and the south end of Middle McKenzie.

Contact: Boone’s A&H Outpost, (715) 635-8955.

CHIPPEWA FLOWAGE

Formed in 1923 by the Winter Dam at the confluence of the East and West forks of the Chippewa River, the Chippewa Flowage flooded 10 lake basins and sprawls over 15,000 acres in Sawyer County. Best known for its big muskies, the “Big Chip” is also one of the best walleye lakes in the state, with a high population density sustained by natural reproduction and boosted by stocking by both the state and the Lac Courte Oreilles tribe.

With 233 miles of shoreline, 140 islands and six major tributaries, the flowage is best bitten off in small chunks. Try to fish it all at once and you’ll go crazy. When the season opens, fish the tributary mouths and the gravel shorelines of Chief and Tyner lakes. Jig with a minnow or cast diving crankbaits.

Contacts: The Landing Resort, (715) 462-3626, www.thelanding-lco.com; Treeland’s Resorts, (715) 462-3874; www.treelandresorts.com.

Other top spring walleye waters include Lakes Waubesa and Mendota on the Madison Chain, Pike Lake in Washington County, Big Arbor Vitae Lake in Vilas County, Lake Arbutus in Jackson County, and Holcombe Flowage in Chippewa County. If you’re planning an opening-weekend outing, check local conditions before you pick a lake to fish. You can also check the Wisconsin DNR’s weekly Outdoor Report at http://dnr.wi.gov/News/or/. With a little effort, you should be able to find the perfect spot for opening-weekend walleyes.