Whether you are new to hunting altogether, or are a hunting mentor to a beginner, squirrel, rabbit, pheasant, dove, goose, antelope and bear are the easiest animals to pursue for the novice.

The seven animals on this list all find themselves here for various reasons. They may be easier to locate than other game or easier to get in close to. Some of these animals require little more than an armed hunter afield to harvest, while others may require more effort or different skill sets to acquire. Let’s take a closer look.

Squirrel

Squirrel hunting is the quintessential beginner game species because they are everywhere, can be located relatively easily, can be hunted with different methods and hunted with small caliber rifles or small gauge shotguns which are both easier on new hunters.

Many seasoned hunters have cut their teeth chasing squirrels through oak forests, honing their accuracy with low-recoiling rimfire cartridges. Hunting squirrels also teaches new hunters other skills necessary to move on to larger game, such as walking through forests as quietly as possible as well as identifying camouflaged game.

Squirrels are often hunted with a spot and stalk method, where a hunter will begin by finding a squirrel rummaging the forest floor for hard mast such as acorns, or moving among the branches of the forest canopy. Squirrels can also be easily drawn into a bait pile, as hunters in states that allow baiting can attest. In this scenario, the hunter may simply still hunt a bait pile and wait for the squirrel to come in to feed, often taking them unaware.

Pheasant

Pheasants find themselves on this list primarily because they can be found in as many as 40 states, and 21 states actually stock pheasants for hunting purposes. Pheasant can be hunted with pointing dogs, but can also be done with a few friends pushing a field to flush the pheasant into the air. Pheasants are taken with shotguns, allowing for a spread of shot to help hit moving birds.

Practice with clays to hone your abilities for taking moving game. Pheasants are medium sized birds and your first flushed pheasant will present a challenging and exciting quarry. Pheasants are also very tasty table fare, adding a strong incentive to your hunt.

Mourning Dove

If the state you hunt in offers a dove season, you are in for a satisfying and educational begining hunt. Doves can be hunted by pushing fields and flushing the birds, or still hunting over a field and simply waiting for the doves to fly by as they move frequently throughout the day.

Mourning doves are small birds and are generally taken with light recoiling shotgun gauges. Though their smaller stature presents a challenging shot, they can be readily harvested with prior range practice. An upside to hunting mourning doves is the quality of their meat, which is delicious. A small group of hunters can take numerous doves, and a cookout is likely to follow your hunt.

Geese

Another migratory bird that beginning hunters can successfully harvest are the different geese species that populate North America. Geese are larger birds that generally fly in flocks, offering multiple, ample-sized targets to the hunter. An added incentive, Goose breast is a tasty meat that hunters will enjoy baked, grilled or fried.

Geese can be problematic for farm owners, who are more likely to allow access to their farms for hunters hoping to harvest these pesky birds. Geese are generally decoyed and called in to the hidden hunter who can take easier shots as the birds begin their descent to the decoy spread. Since geese are generally hunted over fields, retrieving dogs are not necessary, unlike ducks hunted over water.

Rabbit

Like squirrels, rabbits are everywhere, can be harvested using multiple techniques, and are generally taken with lighter recoiling firearms. Most rabbit species are considered excellent table fare, offering a nice reward at the end of a hunt.

Rabbits are generally harvested during a drive, either with dogs or simply with hunting partners but may also be taken using a spot and stalk method. The lighter recoiling shotguns or rimfire rifles are less daunting to beginning hunters, and moving through forest trails and agriculture fields keeps younger hunters engaged.

Antelope

If you live in a state with a healthy Antelope (Pronghorn) population, you have likely seen them grazing the flatlands. Antelope have excellent vision and are the fastest land animal in North America, but because they spend so much time out in the open, they can readily be harvested by a rifle hunter. The trick is to get as close as you can without spooking the antelope before taking a shot.

Using a spot and stalk method on antelope can teach beginning hunters about wind and how to move without detection. Antelope are medium sized game that do not require the hardest hitting rifle cartridges, allowing for newer hunters to be more accurate. Antelope is also a tasty game species.

Black Bear

Black bears are the largest and most dangerous species on this list, but can be readily brought into close range when hunting over bait piles. Not all states allow baiting, so know your regulations, but if baiting is on the table so may black bear. Be sure to cook bear meat thoroughly since, like pork, bear meat often contains a parasite called trichinosis which can survive if the meat is undercooked.

Larger game means larger caliber rifle for both ethical and efficacy reasons, so practice with the rifle you intend to take afield to ensure a successful and rewarding hunt. Remember, taking a bear at close range over bait is possible, but bears are heavy, so plan on having a friend or two ready to help break down and pack out your harvest.

Honorable Mentions:

Turkey, duck and coyote all deserve consideration as easy animals for beginning hunters.

Turkey

Turkey hunting is generally done by the individual, not in groups. If you are new to hunting and have not yet found hunting partners, turkey hunting is a solid option for a successful, solo hunt. Hunted with a shotgun and generally decoyed and called, there are some skills to learn to harvest turkey. The food quality of turkey makes these skills worth learning.

Duck

Duck species can be found all over North America, and many duck species are excellent on the dinner plate. Ducks are usually decoyed and called over water, generally necessitating a retrieving dog, and are fast on the wing. These attributes make duck hunting somewhat challenging for the beginning hunter, though this is mitigated by their numbers and range across North America.

Coyote

Not generally harvested for their culinary excellence, coyotes are still moderately easy game for new hunters based on their habitat range. Coyotes can be found in every state except Hawaii. Coyotes can be driven, hunted using spot and stalk methods but most commonly called in, baited or a combination of the two.

Here are 3 Types Of Ax Options (Plus Multiple Reviews) For Off-Roading and Overlanding

As Brenan mentioned in his Every Day Carry article way back in November of ’17, an ax is a great accessory for Overlanding and general camping use. Choosing an ax can be rather daunting. There are a wide variety of designs for both general and specialized purposes.

Much of the selection process comes down to what tasks you want the ax to help you accomplish, and your preferences in construction, quality, and feel. What follows are some quick reviews of axes I’ve used in over the past two decades, as well as some features that may be useful for vehicle-based camping.

What to Consider?

The first thing to consider is what size and type of ax you are looking for.

They come in many different lengths, styles, materials, and handles. Depending on how you travel, explore and carry your gear will contribute to what type of tool you need. By definition, a hatchet is really just a light-weight ax but then you have compact axes, compact hatchets, tomahawks, and many others.

Whether compact or full-size, an ax can and will come in handy for most of us off-roaders or overlanders out there. First, decide on how you intend on using the ax. Are you looking to split logs at camp or clear branches on the trail? Take a look at the list below and determine which style and material you relate with. Then check out our reviews below and let us know your thoughts in the comments section.

Styles:

• Full-size Ax
• Tomahawk Ax
• Compact Ax
• Splitting Ax
• Hatchet Ax
• Compact Hatchet Ax
• Multi-Tool Axes

Materials

• Steel
• Composite
• Wood

Option 1. Composite Handled Axes & Hatchets

Gerber is an American-based subsidiary of Fiskars, a Finnish company perhaps best known for their pruning shears and other cutting tools that boast orange handles.

As a side note, the popular Fiskars pruning shears are actually a great option throw in your overland gear bag as well. They are small, nimble and really get the job done when it comes to small brush branches.

In years past, Fiskars made composite handled axes under both nameplates in Finland. The handles wrap around, rather than pass through, the ax head. Fiskars advertising appears to be directed toward yard care, whereas Gerber leans more toward the outdoors.

The primary distinguishing feature, however, is handle color.

Gerber or Fiskar Hatchets?

• Gerber: Check Price
• Fiskars: Check Price

The Fiskars hatchet in the photo above is now almost two decades old. Levy’s, a Canadian leathercraft manufacturer, made the sheath in the picture. It lives in a toolbox in my 4Runner now but has been a useful companion on many backpacking trips over the years. On a wilderness survival training experience for teachers near Alaska wherein it somehow was the only cutting tool to arrive in camp, the little Fiskars even held its own splitting driftwood.

For a few years, I used a Gerber Sport Ax, which featured a longer handle and heavier head than the Fiskars hatchet. Unfortunately, it disappeared during one of my moves between villages. The model has since been replaced in Gerber’s lineup by the Sport Ax II. If you are looking for an ultra-compact hatchet, take a look at the Gerber Pack Hatchet Camping Axe.

Even more aggressive in their lineup of composite axes is the Gerber Downrange Tomahawk. Although it is not an “axe” it sure is close. It packs a steel frame with a Cerakote coating and is finished with a composite handle. The multi-tool has three functions; Axe, Hammer Head, and Pry Bar with integrated prying handle. This is a robust and pricy option.

Gerber Hatchets and Axes

• Gerber Sport Axe II: Check Price
• Gerber Pack Hatchet Camping Axe: Check Price
• Gerber Downrange Tomahawk: Check Price

Both Fiskars and Gerber offer a variety of useful axes for overlanding use. My preferences lean strongly toward wood-handled axes, but the utility and durability of composite-handled axes are undeniable.

Browning’s Tomahawk-Like Axes for Limbing and Light Chopping

In contrast to the Finnish offerings mentioned above, Browning’s ax offerings are limited to the Outdoorsman’s Ax and Outdoorsman’s Compact Hatchet.

For all practical purposes, only the former has any real utility for overlanding. I’ve owned an older version of this ax for about a decade, but have used it sparingly. The 24” handle is of similar construction to the Finnish axes, but the tang of the handle passes through the ax head instead of wrapping around the head. Browning describes the head as a tomahawk design, and it does an exceptional job with limbing and light chopping duties.

Find It Online:

• Browning’s Outdoorsman’s Composite-Handled Ax: Check Price
• Browning’s Outdoorsman’s Compact Hatchet: Check Price

Overall, this is a lightweight, durable ax at a fair price – a worthy rival to the Fiskars/Gerber duo – so why don’t I use mine more often? The answer comes down to personal preference. To me, the Estwing – and especially the Helko Werk Black Forest Worker reviewed below – just feel better to use.

Option 2. All-Steel Axes

Providing perhaps the best value in a high quality, high utility camp ax, the Estwing Camper’s Ax from the Estwing All Steel Ax Lineup is positively boring in its durability.

The made in the USA Camper’s Ax is unique among the offerings in this review in being of all-steel construction. This means the head and handle are one solid forged piece. The Camper’s Ax comes with either an 18.75” or 26” handle and a shock-reducing rubber grip. A black powder-coated special edition is also available.

Find It Online:

• Estwing Made in the USA Camper’s All-Steel Ax (26″): Check Price
• Estwing Camper’s Axe – 16″ Hatchet: Check Price

Lightweight All-Steel Ax For Serious Wood Splitting

The Camper’s Ax has quite a following in Alaska among people who depend on their tools for more than recreational use. Well-used examples adorn boats, ATVs, and snowmobiles throughout the backcountry. My own example survived being run over by a snowmobile and thoroughly abused by students in a wilderness survival class. It could use a thorough cleaning and some love from a file, but I know it’s still good for decades of use.

The Camper’s Ax is on the light side for serious splitting but is an outstanding all-around choice for limbing and felling duties. If you want an ax that can take a lot of abuse and requires minimal care in return, the Camper’s Ax is an excellent choice.

Other useful offerings from Estwing include the Sportsman’s Ax and the Fireside Friend. The Sportsman’s Ax is essentially a hatchet-length version of the Camper’s Ax, while the Fireside Friend is a lightweight, short-handled splitter.

Option 3. Wood-Handled Axes

One of the premier names among ax aficionados, Gransfors Bruk has an impeccable reputation for quality.

These are heirloom-caliber gear. They offer a wide catalog of specialized axes and accessories. Master craftsmen in Sweden forge these axes and mark the one they produce with their initials.

Leather Sheath For Gransfors Bruk Axes

Each ax comes with a reference book, which allows the buyer to see which craftsman made their individual ax. A leather sheath is included, but buyers may want to consider upgrading to a Beneath the Stars sheath after their purchase, as it is a more durable design. The hickory handle features subtle finger grooves for maintaining grip in wet weather or while wearing gloves.

Find It Online:

• Beneath the Stars Sheath: Check Price

Gransfor Bruk Hunter’s Ax

The Hunter’s Ax has long been a personal favorite, but my much-used example lives in my hunting pack rather than my 4Runner. Its most unique feature, a flay poll that aids in skinning large ungulates, has limited utility for overlanding chores. The Hunter’s Ax is a highly capable work of art, but there are better choices for camping.

Find It Online:

• Gransfor Bruk Wood-Handled Hunter’s Ax: Check Price

Gransfor Bruk Splitting Hatchet

The Splitting Hatchet packs a lot of firewood splitting power in a compact package that fits readily in toolboxes or backpacks.

It features a 19” handle that can be wielded in one hand or both. The head weighs 3.3 pounds, with a thin face that broadens quickly to aid in forcing the wood apart. A protective steel collar at the base of the head guards against damage to the handle from overstrikes. This is an outstanding ax for splitting small quantities of firewood, especially for camp stoves.

Find It Online:

• Gransfor Bruk Wood-Handled Splitting Hatchet: Check Price

Hand-Crafted Helko Werk’s Wood-Handled Axes

Another high-quality European brand, Helko Werk’s axes are forged in Wuppertal, Germany.

Much like Gransfors Bruk, Helko Werk employs master smiths who handcraft each individual piece. While these craftsmen and women obviously take pride in their work, they do not press their initials are pressed into the ax heads.

Helk Werk’s Black Forest Woodworker Ax

The Black Forest Woodworker may be the most versatile ax I own. It certainly has seen the most use during my time in Alaska. The slightly exaggerated sweep of the blade face (a feature of Rheinland pattern ax heads) makes it ideal for limbing and falling smaller trees, and it is more than capable of light splitting duty.

Find It Online:

• Helk Werk’s Black Forest Woodworker Ax: Check Price

24″ American Hickory Handle Replacements

At 24”, the American hickory handle fits without complaint in a canoe or on an ATV rack. Mine is on its second handle after a certain dog thought it would make the perfect chew toy. Fortunately, replacement handles are available on the website. If you want an all-around ax that matches the Estwing Camp Ax in utility but has a bit more character, this may be the ax for you.

Helk Werk’s Spaltaxt Wood-Splitting Ax

The Spaltaxt is easier to use than it is to pronounce.

A mid-weight ax with a 4.5-pound dual-wedge head, the Spaltaxt is a wood splitting fiend. The extra wedge prevents the head from getting stuck, while the 28” handle yields enough leverage to get the job done without taking up excessive space. If your overlanding adventures require frequent splitting, this is one of the best tools for the job.

Find It Online:

• Helko Werk’s Spaltaxt Wood-Splitting Ax: Check Price

Final Thoughts

I must confess, I am a bit of a geek for axes, so choosing just one to recommend may be more difficult for me than for others.

Perhaps the best recommendation I can make is to visit hardware and sporting goods stores and see how the various offerings feel in your hands. This is one piece of equipment best purchased in person rather than online.

Evolution really likes crabs.

That’s not entirely true. Evolution doesn’t “like” anything. It’s just a natural process that develops and changes species. It doesn’t have likes or dislikes.

But here’s what’s kinda crazy — evolution keeps making crabs, and scientists don’t know why. Seriously.

For decades, scientists have been aware of carcinization, the natural phenomenon of organisms evolving into crabs or crab-like creatures.

According to an expert at Florida International University, “Carcinization can be defined as the evolutionary process leading to the crab-like form.”

Evolutionary biologists aren’t sure why carcinization occurs, but some say it might be caused by the crab’s ability to survive. The crab-like form might have features that make it more resilient than other organisms, making it more likely to climb the evolutionary tree.

No matter why they exist, Earth is home to a bunch of crabs (about 5,000 unique species to be exact).

With so many crabs, it can be hard to pinpoint the most expensive varieties. Some are common foods, others are protected and face extinction due to habitat loss. With this list, we’ll look at the most expensive crabs you could actually buy. Keep reading to learn more!

8. The Blue King Crab

photo source: adn.com

First up is the elusive blue king crab. The creature is often found near the chilly Diomede Islands, a small region between Alaska and mainland Russia.

Blue king crabs eat worms, small fish, algae, and even other crabs! Beyond the Diomede Islands, these blue creatures live in cold waters surrounding Hokkaido, Japan, and the Sea of Okhotsk.

Blue king crab prices are hard to nail down, but you could easily spend about $30 on one of these animals. The species is relatively rare and not as popular for eating as the Alaskan king crab. The species’ population is also spread pretty thin, with small pockets living scattered across the globe.

Warming oceans could be causing the crabs’ strange distribution. The animal evolved to live in cold water, so changing temperatures can isolate them in colder remote regions.

All those factors make the blue king crab hard to find and pretty expensive.

Did you know?

The Alaska Department of Fish and Game says the blue king crab population is quite low, so commercial fishing companies can’t catch them. The Department says there aren’t any direct threats causing the risk of extinction, but the species’ small population is concerning.

7. Coconut Crabs

photo source: animals.howstuffworks.com

The massive coconut crab is just that: massive. These huge creatures are about 40 inches long and weigh 10 pounds, making them some of the biggest crabs on this list.

When they’re young, the nocturnal coconut crab lives in dense vegetation or piles of fallen coconuts to avoid the sun.

As they get older, the crabs usually make burrows among tree roots and logs. These damp homes keep the animals safe from the heat until they head out for food at nightfall.

As scavengers, coconut crabs eat the shells of other crabs to get their daily dose of calcium. They also enjoy fallen fruit and dead animals found near their beachfront homes. Some even eat birds!

Sadly, coconut crabs are threatened by habitat destruction and over-harvesting. The species was officially labeled “vulnerable” by the IUCN, and experts are worried about their future. As a result, these animals can be hard to find and very expensive.

Did you know?

Female coconut crabs usually choose to mate with males that are the same size or bigger than themselves.

6. The Dungeness Crab

photo source: sfgate.com

The Dungeness crab, a popular meal in the San Francisco Bay Area, is known for its mild taste and juicy texture. The variety is a common choice for crab cakes, but its steep price tag is a little hard to swallow.

Final costs depend on the crab and its seller, but you could easily spend $40 on one of these creatures. Others go for closer to $45 per pound. For a typical 2-pound crab, you’re looking at a $90 dinner.

Did you know?

The Dungeness crab lives along sandy ocean floors near the coast of Alaska. It can also be found down in Magdalena Bay, Mexico, and throughout California’s coastal waters.

5. Stone Crabs

photo source: commons.wikimedia.org

Stone crabs are often found along the coasts of North Carolina and Florida. The variety is a favorite among restaurants, many of which charge upwards of $70 for a small plate of stone crab claws.

Stone crab claw harvesting is a pretty unique process. Fishers catch the animals in underwater traps, then break off their claws and throw the rest back to the waves. Crabs can regenerate limbs, so the animal will regrow its missing claws over time.

Florida is one of the biggest producers of stone crab claws. The state regulates harvesting by requiring each claw to be at least 2 ⅞ inches long before its removed. Some scientists are concerned about claw harvesting despite this rule.

A study by the state of Florida found that as much as 82% of crabs die when both claws are removed and up to 60% die when one claw is removed. Those high death rates make some worry about sustaining healthy stone crab populations.

Did you know?

Stone crab claws have to be boiled and put on ice soon after removal, otherwise they go bad.

4. The Alaskan Red King Crab

photo source: cnbc.com

Coming in at number four is the Alaskan red king crab, a large species that can live up to about 30 years. Males can grow up to about 24 pounds and have legs up to 5 feet long.

Red king crabs live throughout the coastal waters of Japan, British Columbia, the Bering Sea, Alaska, and many other regions — but the most expensive variety comes from Alaska.

A 2-pound, wild-caught Alaskan red king crab can sell for up to $180!

Did you know?

Like other crabs, this variety is omnivorous. The species enjoys a whole range of dead and decaying organisms along the ocean floor, including fish, plants, and more.

3. Crystal Crabs

photo source: oceanictrading.com.au

The crystal crab is one of the most popular varieties among high-end chefs. The species has a thin shell and yields large portions of meat, making it a popular choice for restaurants.

Crystal crabs only live along the western coast of Australia. As deep-sea crabs, the species can be tricky to catch, making it more expensive. Although the variety isn’t endangered, crystal crabs’ isolated population boosts prices too.

A single crystal crab can sell for as much as $300, making it the third most expensive crab on the planet.

Did you know?

Unlike other species, crystal crabs remain white after being cooked.

2. The Giant Spider Crab

photo source: christies.com

The horrifyingly huge spider crab lurks along the seafloor near Japan. Living up to 100 years, the massive creature can grow legs over 12 feet long and weigh more than 40 pounds!

Despite their monster-like appearance, giant spider crabs are actually quite tame. The animal moves slowly along the ocean floor, snacking on dead organisms as it moves through the water.

Giant spider crabs aren’t commonly fished because they live so deep under the waves. Still, the creatures are a delicacy in Japan. If they aren’t eaten, the species might be preserved and presented as a unique collector’s item — like this taxidermied specimen sold in 2014. The huge creature was auctioned for about $12,000!

Did you know?

Giant spider crabs often live 50 meters below the ocean surface.

1. Snow Crabs

photo source: cnbc.com

Snow crabs are the most expensive crabs.

Snow crabs are mainly found along parts of Greenland, Eastern Canada, Alaska, and Japan. You could easily spend several hundred dollars on these animals regardless of their origin, but Japanese snow crabs can be particularly expensive.

Why? In Japan, snow crab fishing season runs from November to early March. Traditionally, buying the first caught crab is a status symbol. People are willing to spend thousands to get their hands on the first crab of the season. One sold for $18,000 in 2018, while another earned a jaw-dropping $46,000 in 2019.

Tetsuji Hamashita purchased the record-setting crab, saying, “I know it’s extreme. But it’s the custom.”

Did you know?

Snow crabs live among the muddy bottoms of cold ocean waters. The creatures feed on worms, fish, shrimp, and other small organisms.

Feb. 4, 2019

Suggested Tweet: Northwest #Florida #deer rut brings #hunting opportunities: https://content.govdelivery.com/accounts/FLFFWCC/bulletins/22cf0b1 via @MyFWC

February “Outta’ the Woods”By Tony Young

FWC white-tailed deer research biologist Elina Garrison with a doe captured during the South Florida Deer Research Project. FWC photo.

The truth about Florida’s deer rut

There are a lot of theories and differing opinions on what causes the white-tailed deer rut. Hours of daylight decreasing, geographic latitude, genetics, climate, evolution and moon phase are many factors that hunters and deer enthusiasts have debated over the years. To get to the science behind it and learn the facts about what impacts the rut, I asked the Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission’s (FWC) white-tailed deer research biologist Elina Garrison.

“As winter approaches, decreased daylight triggers does to come into estrus,” Garrison said. “Latitude therefore plays a part as seasonal day length varies with geographic latitude.”

Some hunters believe deer from other states released in Florida years ago is one of the reasons why the deer rut here is the widest ranging of any state – from July in extreme south Florida to early March in extreme northwest Florida and the Green Swamp Basin.

“While it seems unlikely that genetics due to restocking is the only explanation for the variation in Florida’s breeding dates, there is some research that suggests it may play a part,” Garrison said. “Florida, as were many other southeastern states, was part of restocking efforts in the 1940s through the ’60s when deer were introduced, mostly from Wisconsin, Texas, Louisiana and Pennsylvania. The main stocking source for the Green Swamp Basin was from Louisiana. South of there, deer from Texas were mainly used, and north Florida received mainly Wisconsin deer.”

Garrison said climate is a factor, but it really only plays a part in northern, colder states, where the timing of the rut occurs so fawns are born in the spring after the late winter storms and when the most food is available. But they must be born early enough to put on suitable weight and fat to survive the following winter. That’s why there’s such a short window for when breeding must occur in northern states.

The reason the rut varies so much in Florida is because it can, Garrison said. Florida’s relatively mild climate and long growing season allows fawns to be born at various times of the year.

“As far as I know, there are no other states where breeding occurs as early as July and August like it does in extreme south Florida,” she said. “And although difficult to prove, it seems likely it is driven by the hydrological cycles down there. The rut is timed so fawns are born during the driest time of the year, giving them the greatest chance of survival and allowing them to grow to an adequate size before the beginning of the wet season in June.”

Although it is a popular theory among hunters, Garrison says several research projects have proven there is no relationship between the rut and the moon phase. Another interesting fact is the average time a doe stays in heat is about 24 hours.

“The breeding chronology study we did shows that conception dates within an area vary as much as from nine to 110 days, with an average of 45 days, and most does breed within 60 days, meaning rutting activity can occur over a two-month period,” Garrison said.

If a doe is not bred during her first heat, she will come back into estrus again in about 26-28 days, Garrison says. If the doe doesn’t conceive, this cycle can be repeated but normally not more than a few times unless there are not enough bucks to breed all the does. In which case, an area could experience a second or even third peak rut.

If any of this deer talk is getting you fired up to continue hunting this season, then grab your favorite primitive method of take and follow the rut up to the Panhandle and take advantage of Zone D’s late muzzleloader season.

General gun season ends Feb. 17 in zones B and D, but if you’d like to keep hunting deer, Zone D has a late muzzleloading gun season that extends deer hunting opportunities by a week and runs Feb. 18-24 on private lands. The season was established to give hunters an opportunity to continue hunting northwest Florida’s late rut, which runs mid-January through February.

On private land, a $5 muzzleloading gun season permit is required along with a hunting license and $5 deer permit (if hunting deer) to hunt during this season, and hunters have the choice of using a muzzleloader, bow or crossbow. But the only muzzleloaders allowed are those fired by wheel lock, flintlock, percussion cap or centerfire primer (including 209 primers) that cannot be loaded from the breech. For hunting deer, muzzleloading rifles must be at least .40-caliber, and muzzleloading shotguns must be 20-gauge or larger.

There are 14 wildlife management areas in Zone D that have a late season in February, but it’s referred to as the archery/muzzleloading gun season. Those areas are Apalachicola, Apalachicola River, Beaverdam Creek, Blackwater, Chipola River, Choctawhatchee River, Econfina Creek, Eglin AFB, Escambia River, Escribano Point, Perdido River, Point Washington, Tate’s Hell and Yellow River. Season dates vary by WMA, so be sure to check the brochure for the area you want to hunt.

Hunters may use bows or muzzleloaders, but no crossbows – unless they possess a Persons with Disabilities Crossbow Permit. Besides a hunting license, $26 management area permit and deer permit (if hunting deer), hunters who choose to hunt with a bow must have a $5 archery season permit, and those using a muzzleloader need a $5 muzzleloading gun season permit.

All the licenses and permits you’ll need can be obtained at most retail outlets that sell hunting and fishing supplies, Florida tax collector offices, by calling 888-HUNT-FLORIDA or at GoOutdoorsFlorida.com.

Deer and wild hogs are most commonly hunted during this season. Only legal bucks may be taken (even if using a bow). South of Interstate 10 in Deer Management Unit D1, one antler must have at least two points. North of I-10 in DMU D2, all bucks must have at least three points on one side or have a main beam of at least 10 inches long to be legal to take.

On private land, the daily bag limit is two. Bag limits for deer on WMAs differ, so consult the area brochure before you go.

During the late muzzleloader season on private lands and archery/muzzleloading gun season on WMAs, dogs may not be used to hunt deer. However, you may use a leashed dog for tracking purposes. You’re allowed to take deer and hogs over feeding stations on private land, but it is illegal to use such feed on WMAs. And it’s important to know that turkeys are not legal game during this season.

The 2018-2019 fall/winter hunting seasons may be winding down, however, there are still great opportunities to get out there. This February, catch the hunting excitement of the late rut that occurs during Zone D’s late muzzleloader season.

The most common questions I get from first time hunters and from out of state DIY elk hunters is about how to find the “best” hunting units.

I usually ask them what does “best” mean to them. I think most people mean easy. Some elk hunts can be easy, but don’t count on it.

Chances are, you should be able to find elk on every unit on National Forest lands, without any additional knowledge. But more information will always be helpful.

Of course the local hunters know when and where to find elk on units that have few elk, but non-residents will not, so choose a unit proven to have lots of elk during your hunting season.

For me, the best hunting unit has more to do with the quality of my outdoor camping, scouting and hunting experience, but I am also a numbers guy. So in this case, best will be a purely numeric analysis of Colorado’s elk harvest data for the three OTC hunts; 2nd Rifle, 3rd Rifle and Archery hunts.

You can research population estimates in the Herd Management Plans (DAU Reports – AKA Data Analysis Units) or you can see how many elk were harvested in the past and see the hunter success and the amount of hunting pressure.

If you are an out of state hunter, unless you have done lots of scouting before, I suggest you start researching units where at least 50 elk were harvested and also had better than average hunting success.

2021 Colorado OTC Elk Licenses

The OTC licenses are just that, sold over the counter and many of these OTC licenses are unlimited and will be on sale for 2020 starting in Early August (August 6 in 2020).

Colorado OTC Rifle Elk Hunts

Let’s start with the Over-the-counter (OTC) rifle hunts. The OTC rifle seasons are the 2nd and 3rd rifle seasons. In 2020, the 2nd rifle season will be Oct 24 – Nov. 1 and the 3rd rifle season will be Nov. 7 – 13.

These hunts are for Antlered Elk Only (Bull Elk) and are available in 93 hunt units (GMUs – Game Management Units) in Western Colorado. The latest available harvest data from Colorado Parks and Wildlife (CPW) is from 2019 (see tables below).

Looking at past harvest data is important in choosing a hunting unit. The harvest data reported by CPW are available compiled in various ways and it is easy to see harvest numbers, hunting success and hunting pressure for each unit. But it is a little more difficult to separate results from OTC tags from other hunts that occur at the same times and places.

Limited Entry (LE) elk hunts for both antlered and antlerless elk do occur during the 2nd and 3rd rifle seasons. There is no overlap in space (units are separated; LE only in some, OTC only in others) for the bull elk hunts, but there is overlap in the units for the limited cow elk hunts.

By removing the number of hunters that participate in cow elk hunts from the total, I attempt to get more accurate estimates of OTC rifle hunters and harvest data, but have to make some assumptions because CPW does not provide separated data. Those assumptions are that all hunters (OTC Bull Elk and Limited Antlerless) hunt with the same effort (days hunted) and have the same success during the 2nd or 3rd rifle seasons. This is not perfect, but I think is better than leaving them clumped together.

In the past, I reported these numbers for each new season when harvest reports were available, but decided that a three year average would be more useful since the numbers of elk harvested jumps around. For instance, for 2nd Rifle, there are only 14 GMUs that were in the top 20 in both 2014 and 2018 and only 10 GMUs in the top 20 every year from 2014 to 2018. So there is some yearly variation and some GMUs have been trending up and some trending down.

Table 1 shows the top 24 units for the OTC 2nd Rifle Season. Data were averaged for the last three years of harvest data available (2017 – 2019). The left side of the table is ranked by total bull elk taken by OTC tag holders in OTC units during the 2nd rifle season. The right side of Table 1 is same data ranked by Hunter Success.

Table 1. Top 24 Colorado OTC Rifle Units – 2nd Rifle Season – 3 year Average 2017 – 2019

For total bull elk harvest, the top 24 OTC 2nd Rifle Season elk units ranged from an average of 61 to 184 elk harvested (left side Table 1). I included harvest data from 24 units instead of 20 because half (54%) of all Bull Elk Harvest (2nd Season OTC Rifle) came from 24 of the 92 hunt units and it also allowed me to include GMU 54 which ranked in the top 23 for Bull Elk harvest and for hunter success.

For hunter success (right side of Table 1), I limited units to those with an average of at least 25 bull elk over the three years, so some units had higher success than these units, but only had a few elk harvested. So, highest hunter success (with at least 25 bulls harvested) ranged from 31.3% to 12.6%. Total hunter success for the 2017, 2018 and 2019 in OTC 2nd rifle seasons was 13.2%, 13.4% and 14.3% respectively. The top 25 units ranked by hunter success accounted for 15% of all Bull Elk Harvested for the last three OTC 2nd rifle seasons.

Also notice that 13 GMUs are hi-lighted on both sides of the table, because these GMUs ranked in the top 24 for both total harvest and hunter success.

When compared to last year’s table (2015 – 2017 average), 23 of the GMUs are the same. GMU 14 was added and GMUs 28 and 24 dropped out (I used the Top 25 GMUs for Bull elk harvest last year.

When last year’s hunter success was compared, 18 of the GMUs are the same and 6 new GMUs were added, but I also changed the cutoff from 50 bull elk to 25 to be considered.

Five units (4, 13, 22, 85 and 421) were in the top units for both the 2nd and 3rd rifle seasons for both total Bull Elk harvest and for hunter success.

Colorado Hunting Maps & Hunting Accessories

Table 2 (left side) shows the top 25 units ranked by total bull elk taken by OTC tag holders in the OTC units during the 3rd rifle season. The right side of Table 2 is ranked by Hunter Success.

Table 2. Top 25 Colorado OTC Rifle Units – 3rd Rifle Season – 3 year Average 2017 – 2019

For total bull elk harvest, the top 25 OTC 3rd Rifle Season elk units ranged from 163 to 55 bull elk (average harvest – left side Table 2). The top 25 units accounted for over half (54%) of all Bull Elk Harvest during the 3rd OTC Rifle Season(2017 – 2019), I included 25GMUs because the last two had 51 bull elk harvested and it would also include two additional units (units 5 & 551) that ranked for both total elk harvest and for hunter success.

For hunter success (right side of Table 1), GMUs had at least 29 bull elk harvest (3 year average). Remember, some units had higher success, but I only considered units that had at least 25 bull elk harvested. Hunter success (with at least 29 bull elk) ranged from 32.3% to 13.3%. Average hunter success for the 2017 – 2019 OTC 3rd rifle season was 14.9%. The top 25 units ranked by hunter success accounted for 49.5% of all Bull Elk Harvested for the OTC 3rd rifle season.

Notice the 18 hi-lighted units on both side of Table 2. These 18 units ranked in the top 25 for both total harvest and hunter success.

Colorado OTC Archery Elk Hunts

Now let’s look at the OTC Archery Hunts (Combined Either-sex and Antlered hunts). Table 3 shows GMUs ranked by total Elk Harvested (left side) and by Hunter Success (right side). There are two types of OTC Archery Elk Tags; Either Sex or Bull Elk Only. The 2021 OTC Archery season will be Sept. 2 – 30.

There are OTC Archery tags available for 122 Either Sex GMUs and 51 Antlerless Elk GMUs on public land. There is much overlap, but there are 124 total OTC Archery Elk GMUs on public land. There are also 7 additional private only units, but those data are not included. There are 49 units that offer either tag (Either Sex or Antlerless Only).

Table 3. Top 25 Colorado OTC Archery Units – 3 year Average 2017 – 2019

The top 25 units ranked by total elk harvest accounted for 70% of the total OTC Elk Archery harvest. The top 25 units ranked by hunter success (Table 3) accounted for 58.5% of the total OTC Elk Archery harvest.

I included a few extra GMUs in the table, because adding a few more allowed me to include 5 more GMUs that were in the top 25 for both total harvest and hunter success.

For total elk harvest (bulls, cows & calves combined), the top 25 OTC elk units ranged from 227 to 50 elk harvested.

For the top 25 units by hunter success, I limited units to those where at least 20 total elk were harvested. Some units had higher success, but only had a few elk harvested. So, highest hunter success (with at least 20 elk, ranged from 28.3% to 10.3%, compared to the overall average OTC Archery Success (2017 – 2019) of 10.1%.

Again, notice that after the latest update, 14 units are now hi-lighted on both sides of Table 3. These 14 GMUs ranked in the top 25 for both total harvest and hunter success.

For total elk harvested, the table changed over the last two years as Bull elk only tags have transitioned to Either Sex tags. In 2019 the Either sex tags were new and Bull Elk only still existed. Last year, the Bull Elk only tags were dropped.

High Hunter Density is not all Bad

Many days, I see other hunters at parking areas, and I hear them driving around on the roads, but I rarely see or hear hunters in the woods. I usually coordinate with other people I do see to make sure we don’t end up at the same place.

Also, if a unit has lots of hunters, that is usually a good indication that area has lots of access points to disperse the traffic. Of course, some areas can get very crowded, but with a few days to scout, you should be able to find less crowded areas.

Also, some hunters will go deep to find elk and they almost always bump elk (I know I bump elk that other people may get to see), those elk have to go somewhere and they might just run over you.

These tables are just to help you get started with the selection process. These are the units in Colorado where the most elk are harvested and those that have the highest hunter success. Spend a little time researching the combination of these factors and also consider the size of the units, the number of access points and the amount of hunting pressure they get.

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There is also an OTC Plains Rifle season in eastern Colorado. These units obviously don’t have as many elk or public land as the western units, but they do offer long hunting seasons and the opportunity to hunt either sex elk with an OTC tag. The total harvest in the plains units is relatively low and most elk are harvested by local hunters that know the country and know when elk can be found there.

If you are considering a hunt in the plains units, make sure you know where the public land is and that elk should be using those areas at the time you want to hunt. Many of these units do not have any elk harvested during the season.

I no longer rank the Plains Rifle units because CPW makes it impossible to find or to separate the data.

For More info on Hunting Elk with OTC tags in Colorado and to see units maps, read my post here or download the newest Colorado Big Game Brochure here.

So now when guys ask we what is the best hunt unit in Colorado for an OTC tag, I’m going to start by sending them to this page. Good luck on your hunt.

Excerpts from the Old Man & the Boy

Robert Ruark’s The Old Man & the Boy is perhaps the all time classic hunting book ever written. The book tells the story of a grandfather and a grandson’s adventures in the outdoors. The grandfather instills the finest of ethics in the youngster at every opportunity. Though the book was written over 50 years ago, the Old Man’s wisdom will never grow old. Here’s a few quotes of the Old Man. If you haven’t read this book you are cheating yourself for not doing so.

The Old Man knows pretty near close to everything, and mostly he ain’t painful with it. What I mean is he went to Africa once when he was a kid, and he shot a tiger or two out in India, or so he says, and he was in a whole lot of wars here and yonder. But he can still tell you why the quail sleep at night in a tight circle or why the turkeys always fly uphill.

The Old Man ain’t much to look at on the hoof. He’s got big ears that flap out and a scubby mustache with light yellow tobacco stains on it. He smokes a crook stem pipe and he shoots an old pump gun that looks about as battered as he does. The thing I like most about the Old Man is he is willing to talk about what he knows, and he never talks down to a kid.

…”Hunting,” the Old Man said, “is the noblest sport yet devised by the hand of man. There were mighty hunters in the Bible, and all the caves where the cave men lived are full of carvings of assorted game the head of the house drug home. If you hunt to eat, or hunt for sport for something fine, something that will make you proud, and make you remember every single detail of the day you found him and shot him, that is good too. But if there’s one thing I despise is a killer, some blood crazed idiot that just goes around bam-bamming at everything he sees. A man that takes pleasure in death just for death’s sake is rotten somewhere inside, an you’ll find him doing things later on in life that’ll prove it.”

…”A gentleman starts down at his boots and works up to his hat. A gentleman is, first of all, polite. A gentleman never talks down to nobody, or even to anybody that says ‘anybody’ instead of ‘nobody.’ A gentleman ain’t greedy. A gentleman don’t holler at anybody else’s dogs. A gentleman pays his score as he goes. He don’t take what he can’t put back, and if he borrows, he borrows from banks. He never troubles his friends with his troubles.”

…”A sportsman, is a gentleman first. But a sportsman, basically, is a man who kills what he needs, whether it’s fish or bird or animal, or what he wants for a special reason, but he never kills anything just to kill it. And he tries to preserve the very same thing that he kills a little of from time to time. The books call this conservation. It’s the same reason why we don’t shoot that tame covey of quail down to less’n ten birds.”

…This little bobwhite, the Old Man told me, was a gentleman, and you had to approach him as gentleman to gentleman. You had to cherish him and look after him and make him very important in his own right, because there weren’t many of him around and he was worthy of respectful shooting. The way you handled quail sort of kicked back on you. …The little fellow doesn’t weigh but about six ounces but every ounce of him is pure class. He’s smart as a whip, and every time you go up against him you’re proving something about yourself.

…The quail is a member of the family, the Old Man said again. He expects to get fed, like any other member of the family. So you plant him some field peas or some lespedeza or something, and you have to leave it there for him to eat. You plant it close to a place where he can fly in. A bobwhite is pretty well set in his habits. He will walk off from where he roosted, but he likes to fly home. It is a damned shame, the Old Man said, that the human race wouldn’t take a tip from this.

“…any time a boy is ready to learn about guns is the time he’s ready, no matter how young he is, and you can’t start too young to be careful. What you got in your hands is a dangerous weapon. It can kill you, or kill me, or kill a dog. You always got to remember that when a gun is loaded it makes a potential killer out of the man that’s handling it. Don’t you ever forget it!”

…”The older you get, the carefuller you’ll be. When you’re as old as I am, you’ll be so scared of a firearm that every young man you know will call you a damned old maid. But damned old maids don’t shoot the heads off their friends in duck blinds or fire blind into a bush where a deer walked in and then go pick up their best buddy with a hole in his chest.”

…”I ain’t got to tell you that I am going to die”, the Old Man said. “You would know it. You’ve had the best of me, and you’re on your own from now on. You’ll go to college next year, and you’ll be a man, with all a man’s problems, and there won’t be no old man around to steer you. I raised you as best I could an now you’re the old man, because I’m tired and I think I’ll leave.” My eyes blurted to tears, and I said all the things young people say in the presence of death. “Leave it. Leave it,” the Old Man said. “Like I always told you, if there was a way to beat it, I would have heard about it. It’ll even happen to you, unlikely as it seems.” “But how, when, why?” I said, for lack of anything better. “I promise you,” he said, “on my word of honor, I won’t die on the opening day of bird season.” He kept his promise.

Excerpts from Robert Ruark’s classic, The Old Man and the Boy

Back to the Home Page The person who does not read good books has no advantage over the person who can’t read good books. – Will Rogers

Question: My bow continues to paper-tune with a tail-left tear. I’ve tried moving my rest to the right, to the left, and I’ve adjusted the string-yoke harnesses as suggested by a friend. But I’m still getting a ragged tear and lousy broadhead flight. Can you help? — Alex D., via e-mail

Answer: Bows that don’t tune easy can be frustrating, and I’ve even had a few that wouldn’t tune at all! However, modern-day bows are manufactured with exceedingly close tolerances, so it’s a matter of making a few small adjustments to solve the problem. It could be as easy as resetting the cams, so they are synchronized and rotating plumb with the bowstring. Or you may have to move one or both cams to a different position along the axle by adding shims (small spacers) to one side of the cam and removing from the other.

Such steps are often referred to as “super-tuning,” but these actions simply place the bow’s powerstroke directly in line with the arrow. Shooting style varies, so although the bow may tune perfectly in a shooting machine, this may not be the case for a particular archer.

To perform these tuning steps, you need to have access to a quality press and some basic archery tools so you can work systematically until the flight issue is cured.

When tuning a bow, don’t skip the basics. With a persistent tear like yours, be sure to first check for fletching contact. Spray aerosol foot-powder across the arrow’s fletching area, then shoot it into a firm backstop. Any “smears” of the white powder indicate vane contact with the rest, cables, or riser — a common culprit of poor arrow flight. Also, don’t tune a bow without using several shafts to see if the tears remain the same. If spine varies from one arrow to the next (trust me, not every arrow is made the same), you’ll see various types of tears. Twisting the nock in one-quarter increments could also produce different tears.

Once the basics are covered, move on to synchronizing the cams. The cables should strike the cable stops at the exact same time. Next, assess each cam’s vertical position while at full draw. Cam lean is checked by using a bow-drawing device (or draw board) to allow an easy evaluation of how the cams are oriented. By laying an arrow across the surface of the cam, you can determine if the cam is in line with the bowstring. If the arrow points off-center to the left or right, then cam lean is present. If a draw board is not available, draw your bow and have a friend assess the cams’ positioning. To fix cam lean, adjust the string-yoke harness by twisting one side and untwisting the other, allowing the limb’s tip to equalize the load.

If the left tear persists, try moving your rest to the right, but oftentimes this only works for a very small left tear. Rest adjustments are better for “micro-tuning” groups downrange and adjusting the points of impact for fieldpoints and broadheads. Overall, it’s better to maintain the proper arrow centershot position as recommended by the bow’s manufacturer. This provides improved vane clearance and allows the arrow to stay in the center of the bow’s riser, limbs, and grip for optimum performance.

With large or persistent tears, shimming one or both cams will eventually eliminate the tear (I prefer to yoke-tune first). When repositioning the cam, always move it in the direction of the tear. Depending on your bow’s spacers, you may have to purchase new shims with varying thicknesses to make the necessary horizontal adjustments. Lancaster Archery and Last Chance Archery sell relatively inexpensive spacer kits and tools for this type of tuning.

There are several ways to tune a bow, but I believe paper-tuning is the most precise way to capture irregularities in arrow flight because it examines flight issues only a few feet from the bow. To improve paper-tuning even more, try using a bare shaft. To simulate the weight of vanes, wrap the rear of the shaft with a piece of electrical tape. The bare shaft will expose the smallest rips in paper so you can improve consistency downrange. Any small accuracy adjustments at this point are resolved by moving the rest or D-loop in 1⁄16″ or 3⁄32″ increments until maximum accuracy is achieved.

One thing that will help you shoot more accurately is if you know your ammunition’s velocity and other related data. Luckily, there’s a tool for that — a shooting chronograph!

Not only can it measure the velocity of your shots but its data can also help you assess your reloading skills. No longer are chronographs only to be found in ballistics labs, but are now priced so as to be a regular part of a shooter’s kit.

Shooting chronographs are easy to use and show you valuable data.

In turn, these data can help you improve your reloading skills and the quality of your shots. Get that bullet to land where you want to with this shortlist of the best shooting chronographs. We’ll take a look at seven great options.

Shooting chronographs offer help when firing long-range shots in target shooting and before hunting trips.

Some of you may already know that I have been in the gun industry for more than 40 years now.

Over the last few years, I have tried and tested over 15 different chronographs. So, if you are unsure about getting one, then this article might serve as your ultimate buyer’s guide. Here’s the summary of the chronographs that I will discuss in this review:

GGD Shooting Chronograph Bullet Speed Tester

• Unbeatable price
• Wide velocity range
• Solid design
• Not as durable as some of the others

$64 Shop NowClick to read my review Caldwell Ballistic Precision Chronograph

• Can adjust accuracy up to 99.75%
• Ideal for beginners due to its ease of use
• Compatible with archery, airguns, firearms, and rifles
• Oversized sunscreens made of plastic
• Thin metal rods are bendable

$114 Shop NowClick to read my review Caldwell Ballistic Precision Chronograph G2

• Has Bluetooth, SMS (text), and email features for data transfer
• Accuracy of +/-.25%
• Can measure 5 to 9,999 FPS (frames per second)
• Connect to a mobile device to view advanced statistical data
• Tripod has an average design

$207 Shop NowClick to read my review Competition Electronics ProChrono Digital Chronograph

• Records up to 99 string shot data in its internal memory
• Compatible with pistols, shotguns, rifles, and arrows
• Has a velocity range of 21 feet up to 7,000 FPS
• Slower speed recording time when used in outdoor shooting
• Need to buy other accessories (e.g., Indoor Lighting System) for better performance

$110 Shop NowClick to read my review LabRadar Ballistic Velocity Doppler Radar Chronograph

• Powers up either by using AA batteries or an external USB power source
• Can track and record different types of statistical data
• Good for both outdoor and indoor use
• Pricier than many other chronographs
• Not suitable to use for long periods of time

$559 Shop NowClick to read my review MagnetoSpeed V3 Ballistic Chronograph

• Can record data up to 1,100 rounds per minute
• Compatible with many firearms, including airguns
• Great for pro shooters
• The Bayonet’s weight affects shooting
• Data is hard-to-read

$380 Shop NowClick to read my review Shooting Chrony 7000129 Beta Master Chronograph

• Has an accuracy of up to .5%
• Long battery life up to 48 hours of continuous use
• Complex design
• Read the full manual to achieve best results

$159 Shop NowClick to read my review

Why Is a Chronograph Essential?

I have heard many people ask: “Why should we even bother buying a chronograph anyway?” Chronographs are useful, especially for long-range shooters attempting to test their loads’ consistency.

Here are the three big pieces of data that a good chrono will give you:

For beginners, you may find yourself confused by all this (trust me, I was too). Trying to calculate the data of how your load does at the range is a lot of work.

Chronographs help find the right load for you by doing all the painful calculations.

How a Chronograph Operates

Let’s break this down easy. Chronographs are useful pieces of scientific equipment, but using one for our goals is actually pretty easy.

By default, a chronograph’s main goal is to measure time. This is also true for shooting chronographs.

How a shooting chronograph actually works depends on the exact type you get. Right now, there are three general styles.

Skybox Chronographs

Skybox chronographs use a “skybox” to measure when the shadow of the projectile passes two points. It does some math and provides velocity information. This is the most common and cheapest type of chronograph since they are easy to make and the tech is pretty simple. Chronos like the Caldwell down below use Skyboxes.

The downside of these is that they can be inconsistent depending on the weather. If you’re under 100% sun when you test one batch of ammo but 70% sun when you test a second batch, your results might not entirely match.

Radar Chronographs

Radar chronographs normally use Doppler radar to bounce a single off of the projectile and get information back from it. This is very handy since it can measure velocity at multiple distances between you and the target.

These are also rather expensive and harder to set up than the other kinds. The good news is they are very accurate and work in all weather conditions.

Electromagnetic Chronographs

Electromagnetic chronographs attach to the barrel or the rifle frame in some way and use a bayonet to extend past the muzzle of the barrel. In the bayonet is small electromagnetics that creates a small electromagnetic field above them. Measuring how that field is disturbed by the projectile enables the computer to math out how fast it is moving.

These are decently priced, very easy to use, and work in all weather, but make shooting for groups while taking velocity data at the same time much harder since the weight of the bayonet hanging off of the barrel shifts POI and affects harmonics. This can be solved by getting an aftermarket mount and attaching the bayonet to that.

Where to Use and Store Chronographs

You can use shooting chronographs almost anywhere you wish. Displays are usually easier to read indoors, but I have never had a problem using them outdoors.

My best recommendation is to use your chronograph on a cloudy day. Â

Like guns, you also need to take extra care of your chronograph. You can use a carry bag or kit to store all your chronograph accessories in one place.

7 Best Shooting Chronographs

I have chosen seven of the best shooting chronographs to buy this year. Before we talk about them in greater detail, I have summarized a neat table for you to look at. The table includes the dimensions, weight, and price of each featured chronograph:

NameDimensionsWeightPrice Caldwell Ballistic Precision Chronograph21.5 x 10 x 4 inches3.2 lbs$114.99 Caldwell Ballistic Precision Chronograph G260 x 36 x 36 inches8 lbs$207.00 Gun Gear Depot Precision Chronograph5.1 x 3.1 x 2.0 inches0.4 lbs$64.99 Competition Electronics ProChrono Digital Chronograph16 x 4 x 32 inches2 lbs$110.49 LaBradar Ballistic Velocity Doppler Radar Chronograph11 x 10 x 2 inches2.1 lbs$559.99 MagnetoSpeed V3 Ballistic Chronograph12 x 4 x 2 inches2 lbs$380.00 Shooting Chrony 700129 Beta Master Chronograph20 x 20 x 3 inches7 lbs$159.99

Caldwell Ballistic Precision Chronograph

Let’s start with the Caldwell Ballistic. Its decent price offers strong reliability. In addition, this is one of my first chronograph and its high performance is not reflected in its relatively modest price. The Ballistic also includes ¼-20 threads for tripod mounting and a 15-ft audio jack cable for data transfer. Plus, it also has a carry bag suited for portable travel.

The Caldwell Ballistic’s highlight feature is its pinpoint velocity. It has the ability to record readings of 5 to 9,999 fps (frames per second).

It is also factory calibrated and is easy to operate for newbies. Due to its calibrated design, it has a dependable accuracy of +/-.25%. Furthermore, this chronograph also caters to different types of shooters’ needs.

Airguns, arrows, firearms, paintball rifles – you name it! As an archery enthusiast, this chronograph is the one for me.

The Ballistic has a decently sized LCD screen that makes it easy to read. It measures its velocity by MPS (meters per second) or FPS (feet per second).

It records the velocity, SD, and ES of every projectile you fire from your gun. Since it is factory calibrated, its accuracy could reach up to 99.75%.

Like other Caldwells, the Ballistic’s effective accuracy lies at its 48 MHz processor. I saw how it generates quick data when I took my AK-47 rifle out at my local range. Its 15ft jack audio cable allows you to transfer data to all smartphone types.

When I paired it with my iPhone, I read my stats through an Excel sheet format.

Personally, I’ve never had an issue with durability on the Caldwell. Even when I accidentally shot mine with a .22 LR at 5ft, it kept working for almost a year before it finally died on me. Since I did shoot it, I’ll give it a pass for its early retirement.

Caldwell Ballistic Chronograph G2

Compared to the Ballistic, the G2 has a more expensive price in the market ($200+). But this chronograph’s high price equates to its high performance on the range. It has a +/-.25% accuracy like the other Caldwells.

The G2’s upside-down design allows shooters to place it either on a tabletop or with a tripod. Whenever I like to do my shooting test sitting down, I use my G2 instead. It is also compatible with a wide variety of weapons.

Examples are airguns, firearms, arrows, and paintball rifles. If you’re looking for versatile chronographs, the G2 is your best choice!

The G2 can also calculate more different types of data. This includes the average velocity, extreme spread, minimum, maximum, and standard deviation. It can also measure 5 to 9,999 feet per second (FPS) like the rest of its Caldwell counterparts. Unlike the Ballistic, G2 has its Bluetooth and SMS (text) features.

You can transfer your data using Bluetooth without using a cable jack. Also, you can share your data via SMS (text) or email. I can borrow my friend’s laptop, computer, or tablet to view my emailed data at any time. The G2 also includes a carry bag and a rechargeable Li-Ion battery. Click on the video below to see how the G2 works at the range:

The only downside to the G2 is its need for mobile devices. You need a phone, tablet, or laptop to view your advanced data analysis. Its tripod design is also average like other tripods in the market. Due to its collapsible feature, you can also use the G2 for indoor and outdoor shooting.

GGD Shooting Chronograph Bullet Speed Tester

If you want a feature-rich shooting chronograph but you’re on a budget, you really can’t go wrong with this one from Gun Gear Depot.

With a velocity range of 999m/s (~3200 fps) it offers an excellent range for an enthusiast. It also records groups of up to forty rounds and will calculate kinetic energy (a feature of the much more expensive LabRadar chronograph).

It is powered by a rechargeable lithium battery (USB cable provided) and is portable and versatile. Its LED display is bright and the chronograph works confidently in most weather conditions – the design incorporates its own ‘sky screen’ over the chronograph. Â

If you want to improve your shooting this chronograph is a great entry-point – it’s affordable, simple to operate, and has a solid design. Decent data with no-nonsense. At the current sale price of $64.99 we highly recommend it.

Competition Electronics ProChrono Digital Chronograph

If you prefer a simple yet reliable chronograph, then ProChrono is your best bet. This unit is one of the top-rated models in today’s market due to its wide array of features. It also comes with a decent price of $115.99.

Its accessible interface is also fitting for amateur and expert shooters. The ProChrono is also compatible with arrows, pistols, shotguns, and rifles.Â

One of the ProChrono’s best attributes is its shot string data. Its power-down memory can store up to 99 string shots.

The data shows a bullet’s average velocity, standard deviation, and extreme spread. You can also delete an individual or an entire string by touching a button on its easy-to-use keypad.

The ProChrono’s clear 4-digit LCD screen records both meters per second (MPS) and frames per second (FPS). I use this chrony most of the time because I can view my shot string data in greater detail. The ProChrono’s ability to track 21 feet to 7,000 FPS makes it suitable for large shooting areas. You can check out the model’s review below:

This little guy’s shot timing resolution runs up to 750 nanoseconds. As such, it could display shot string data right away. The ProChrono’s only downfall is its speed recording time on sunny days. Outdoor shooting with this chrony slows down the generation of your projectile data.

LabRadar Ballistic Velocity Doppler Radar Chronograph

The LabRadar is the most expensive chronograph ($559.95)Â included in this review (but with good purpose!).

Unlike other chronographs, this uses radar instead of sunscreens to measure a bullet’s flight. The LabRadar comes with a set of accessories. This includes a USB cable, warranty card, instructions manual, and carrying cases.

This unit can run either using an external USB power source or 6 AA batteries. When using batteries, it only wastes ¾ of their power after 4 hours of use at the shooting range.

My friend who owns one of the chronys also commented on how easy the LabRadar’s setup is. It only took him less than 5 minutes to set it ready and 2 minutes to adjust between various loads. You can watch an unboxing and review of this chrony here:

The LabRadar also has the ability to track and gain velocities 100 yards and beyond. To test it, I went over to my friend’s place (the same person before) and used my .308 with it. I got my projectile’s maximum range result of 7.62mm per 100 yards! In addition, it also calculates a bullet’s SD, ES, maximum, minimum, and average velocities. Talk about an all-rounder in stats!

I have noticed a few setbacks with the LabRadar. We start off by talking about its price. The LabRadar costs at least $500 or up on average.

The price combined with the extra accessories you often need to get make this a very pricey option with arguably little benefits over something like a MagnetoSpeed V3.

MagnetoSpeed V3 Ballistic Chronograph

MagnetoSpeed produces reliable chronographs and the V3 is one of them. The V3 comes at a reasonable price ($380) with great inclusions like its data logging feature.

It can collect data up to 1,100 rounds per minute, earning its top speed and accuracy ratings. This unit is suitable for muzzles and suppressors from ½ to 2 inches in diameter. True to its name, the V3 uses electromagnetic sensors to measure velocities by FPS.

Like many chronographs, you can use the V3 on various kinds of weapons, including airguns. The unit comes with a Bayonet that you attach to the muzzle of your gun to track its load data.

This is one of V3’s straightforward qualities as you can fire your shots away and it generates the data you need. Also, you can adjust the unit to rapid mode if you want to take quick shots. I had a lot of fun using it on my Spring Piston at my local range.

The V3 has a kit that includes a lot of accessories. It has a display unit, a Bayonet sensor, an alignment rod, and an instructions manual. It also has downloadable firmware updates and a troubleshooting guide.

If you ever run into problems, you can do the troubleshooting on your own. Scroll down to watch an overview and unboxing video of the V3:

I love my V3 and use it for nearly every range trip. If you mount the unit to your bayonet you’ll have to accept the shift in POI and adjustable for the new weight.

Personally, I use a mount from MK Machining so I can mount my V3 to the chassis of the rifle. For me, this makes the perfect setup.

Shooting Chrony 7000129 Beta Master Chronograph

Long-range shooter enthusiasts, you might want to read this one out. The Beta Master is one of the best long-range shooting chronographs in the market right now.

Along with its top performance, this chrony costs less than two hundred bucks ($149.99). Regardless of what gun you use, the Beta Master has an outstanding accuracy of .5%.

The Beta Master tracks a bullet’s speed from 30 to 7,000 feet per second which makes it ideal for long-range shooting. It also uses one 9 volt alkaline battery as its power source that could last up to 48 hours when used for long periods.

From my personal experience, I don’t charge the Beta Master often because of its long battery life.

This unit can perform a lot of actions, one of which includes its string shot memory. The Beta Master can store up to 60 shots in its internal memory. Like the ProChrono, you can delete an individual or a whole set of string shot data.

Also, this chronograph only weighs less than 3 pounds which makes it convenient to carry around. If you’re curious about how it does on the field, you can click on the video below:

The only major downside that the Beta Master has is its design. This might overwhelm the first-time users but its manual could help you get past that.

Speaking of the design’s downside, I had two of them and found that I had to be careful when closing the unit (it folds in half, like a clam shell) not to get the power cable from the battery caught between the halves. I practically cut the cable on one my units before I’d determined what was happening.

Turns out it didn’t matter much, as I shot the thing a short time later. go figure! But, give it a little bit of practice and you can see how powerful this bad boy can get.

Conclusion

If you wish to buy a cheap yet reliable chronograph, the GGD Shooting Chronograph Bullet Speed Tester has the capacity to record accurate readings with a sale price of $64.99.

For newbies, I recommend the Caldwell Chronograph for its ease-of-use operation and all-in-one package.

MagnetoSpeed V3 goes well with experienced shooters for its complex data calculation.

Which chronograph do you prefer? Share your thoughts below in the comments section!

You might also enjoy:

• How To Reload Ammo [Ultimate Guide]
• [Review] Caldwell Shooting Supplies
• 4 Best Shot Timers

If you’re out on a hike, or just poking around the back 40, you’re likely to see mushrooms growing from trees in the woods. Some of them are edible, some aren’t. For the purposes here, I’ve gathered useful, common mushrooms you can eat, since that’s what I’m usually looking for.

It’s important to know that the title is a little misleading. While mushrooms may appear to grow on trees, what we see is only the fruiting body that will eventually make spores and attempt to reproduce. The mushroom life force, or mycelium, is inside of the tree, waiting for the right conditions (temperature, rain, and seasonality) to fruit.

Mushrooms That Grow on Living Trees

Most of the mushrooms I look for that grow on trees grow on living, or injured trees. As you’ll see, there is some overlap between the two. Here’s a few very common mushrooms you might see on your next hike.

Oyster Mushrooms (Pluerotus and others)

Oyster mushrooms (Pluerotus species and relatives) are some of the most common mushrooms found on trees. Most of these are easy to identify, and all are edible with no poisonous mushroom look alikes.

Depending on where you are and what kind of trees are in your area, there can be a number of different species to look for. All oyster mushrooms have gills and white spore prints.

• Elm oyster mushrooms (Hypsizygus ulmarius) grow on elm trees and box elder.
• Aspen oyster mushroom (Pluerotus populina) grows on aspen.
• Pluerotus dryinus is found late in the season growing on oak and beech.
• Late Fall Oyster (Sarcomyxa serotina or Mukitake) is eaten in Japan. There’s been confusion over claims it contains carcinogens, but that information has been disproven and the mushroom is fine to eat. Reference.
• Golden Oyster Mushrooms are a new, invasive species that grows on elms, cherry and other hardwoods.

Chicken of the Woods (Laetiporus)

Chicken of the woods are extremely common, edible, and found around the world. They grow from living and dead trees, stumps, and over roots. Depending on the species they can grow from coniferous or deciduous trees. There’s a number of species, and all of them are edible, with caution. Read more about them in my post Chicken of the Woods Mushrooms.

Hen of the Woods or Maitake Mushrooms (Grifola frondosa)

Similar to chicken of the woods, maitake are a parasite of trees, typically white and red oak, but occasionally on maple. They cause a butt rot in the host tree, and are common on stumps, downed trees, and living trees.

Long appreciated in Japan where they’re known as maitake (dancing mushroom) they’re edible, delicious, and widely appreciated by many foragers East of the Rocky Mountains. Read more about them in my post on Hen of the Woods.

Resinous Polypore (Ischnoderma resinosum)

This common parasite of hardwood trees appears in the summer and is common on oaks. It’s a good mushroom for foragers to know as it’s edible and underappreciated, meaning it tastes great, but not a lot of people harvest it.

Some people call it salisbury steak of the woods, or beef of the woods, and that’s a pretty good comparison. Read more about them in my post on Resinous Polypore/Ischnoderma resinosum.

Hericiums

The genus Hericium includes lions mane and its cousins is commonly found on dying oak trees. While the coral tooth fungus (Hericium coralloides) and bearded tooth mushroom (Hericium americanum) seem to prefer dying and fallen oak trees covered in moss, lions mane (Hericium erinaceous) also likes to grow on trees that are still standing. All Hericium are edible, and taste great. Read more about them in my post Lions Mane and Hericium Mushrooms.

Enokitake (Flammulina velutipes)

Enokitake, also known as enoki and the velvet shank mushroom, are parasitic, saprobic decomposers of wood, especially elms. These are the same species of edible mushroom found in stores, but have brown stems and a yellow to orangeish cap when exposed to sunlight.

They appear in the Spring and will continue to fruit throughout the year. Make sure to be able to identify Galerina marginata if you plant to eat them. Read more about them in my post on Enokitake or Velvet Shank Mushrooms.

Pheasant Back (Cerioporus squamosus)

Also known as the dryad saddle, the pheasant back is a parasite and decomposer of hardwood trees, especially box elder and elms. Named for it’s cap scales that resembles pheasant feathers, it’s a common Spring mushroom, but can be found throughout the year.

It’s edible, and tastes very good, but gets tough quickly as it grows so it must be sliced thinly. Read more about them in my post on Dryad Saddle or Pheasant Back Mushrooms.

Wood Ear (Auricularia judae)

Wood Ear Mushrooms, also known by the outdated name of “Jews Ear” are a common decomposer of hardwood trees, often seen growing on branches. Long enjoyed in Asian cuisine, they can be added to soups and broths, especially wood ear mushroom ramen.

Witches Butter (Tremella mesenterica)

Another common tree mushroom is witches butter. This is a commonly found yellow jelly fungus often seen on fallen branches. It has a lobed appearance, and is slimy or sticky when wet.

It’s an edible mushroom, and some foragers like to simmer it in sugar syrup to make mushroom jelly candies. If you want to try that, you can substitute them in my recipe for candied black trumpet mushrooms.

Mushrooms That Prefer Dead Trees

Some mushrooms prefer dead or rotting trees over living ones, although some species like Hericium enjoy feeding on both. Here’s two very common ones you might come across.

Turkey tail (Trametes versicolor)

One of the most common mushrooms on trees in North America, and a popular mushroom mostly known for its “medicinal” benefits. Turkey tails are a decomposer of logs and stumps of deciduous trees, and on the rare occasion, coniferous trees. They’re widely used as a medicinal in things like mushroom tinctures.

Crown coral (Artomyces pyxidatus)

The crown coral mushroom is very common where I live in Minnesota. These only grow from dead, fallen logs that are decaying, and will never grow from live wood. They’re commonly confused with species of coral mushroom or Ramaria, some of which are edible. The key to separating the two genera of fungi is that Ramaria will only grow from the ground, where crown corals only grow from dead and dying wood. Learn more about them in my post on Crown-Tipped Coral Mushrooms.

Tree Feeding Mushrooms and Other Fungi

Besides the mushrooms mentioned here, there’s also many other mushrooms that may grow on trees that you may not notice. One of the most common are crust fungus. There’s many different genera here, including Phlebia, Stereum, and Thelephora. They’re common wood-decomposing fungi.

Another example is cherry knot fungus (Apiosporina morbosa), also known as black knot. It appears as charcoal-like swelling black growths on branches of cherry trees that have been injured, as well as plum trees. Cherry knot fungus will inhibit fruiting, but can be kept in check by regular pruning or fungicides.