There is a clear winner when we compare the 260 Remington vs 6.5 Creedmoor, but it’s not for the reasons you might think.

Both rounds have similar ballistics and fulfill a similar purpose, but there’s an important reason why the 6.5 Creedmoor is the caliber, so many hunters and shooters choose.

260 Remington vs 6.5 Creedmoor

Few other calibers are as close to comparing apples to apples as these two because the cartridges have minute differences in size and shoot the same diameter bullet.

Cartridge Specs

The bullet diameter for both rounds is .264″, and the rim diameter of the cartridge is the same at .473″.

The difference lies in the case. The 260 Rem has a case length of 2.035″. The 6.5 Creedmoor is slightly shorter at 1.92″.

One might conclude that the 260 has a longer maximum overall length; however, that’s not the case.

The 6.5 Creedmoor has an overall length of 2.825″, and the 260 Reming has an overall length of 2.80″.

The 260 Remington has a 20-degree shoulder angle, and the 6.5 Creedmoor has a 30-degree shoulder angle.

The 260 Remington has a max pressure (SAAMI) of 60,00 psi that stems from a powder capacity of 53.5 gr H2O.

The 6.5 Creedmoor has a higher max pressure of 62,000 psi with a case capacity of 52.5 gr H20.

6.5 Creedmoor vs 260 Remington: Recoil

Unless you’re a young buck trying to prove yourself to the world, you would agree less recoil is better.

It’s much easier to be accurate with a lower recoil round.

Many factors go into calculating recoil, such as the gun weight, shooter, bullet size, and amount of powder in the case.

For the sake of the comparison, we’re going to assume all things are as equal as possible.

When we do this, we see that these rounds have similar amounts of recoil.

The 260 Rem has 15.65 ft-lbs of felt recoil, and the 6.5 Creedmoor has 15.03 ft-lbs of recoil.

The difference is so minimal the average person won’t be able to tell the difference.

Technically, the 6.5 Creedmoor has less recoil, so it wins this section.

Trajectory

Due to gravity, the path it takes when we fire a bullet is an arch. Otherwise known as the bullet trajectory.

It’s much easier to be accurate with a flat shooting bullet, especially at long ranges.

This is why the 6.5 Creedmoor is a favorite amongst long-range shooters.

A 120gr bullet zeroed in at 200 yards has a bullet drop of 7.5″ at 300yds and 44.4″ of drop at 500yds.

A 140gr 6.5 Creedmoor bullet has 9″ of drop at 300 yards and 53.7″ of bullet drop at 500yds when zeroed in at 200 yards.

It might surprise you that the 260 Remington has a flatter trajectory.

A 120gr 260 Rem bullet, zeroed in at 200 yards, only drops 7.2″ at 300 yards and 42.8″ at 500yds.

A 140-grain bullet drops 8.2″ at 300yds and 48.7″ at 500 yards when zeroed in at 200 yards.

The winner is the 260 Remington.

260 Rem vs 6.5 Creedmoor: Accuracy

Accuracy is another section that many factors play a role in determining.

The rifle, recoil, shooter, trajectory, barrel length, and factory loads vs hand loads all play a part in determining the accuracy of a round.

We will do the same as we did with the recoil category, considering all things as equal as possible.

Since the 6.5 narrowly won the recoil section and the 260 Rem won the trajectory category, we can consider them canceled out.

Both rounds are very accurate at longer ranges, so this section is a tie.

Ballistic Coefficient

The ballistic coefficient (BC) represents how well a bullet resists air.

It’s a measure of bullet aerodynamics. High B.C. bullets are preferred because they will better resist the wind.

Calculating BC is rather complicated and irrelevant for this article; however, heavier, longer projectiles typically have a higher ballistic coefficient than lighter, shorter bullets.

If you’re like me, you would assume the bullets for each caliber have the same ballistic coefficient; however, that’s incorrect.

The 6.5 Creedmoor is better suited for shooting high BC match grade bullets because of its longer neck and shorter case length.

The 6.5 Creedmoor 140gr ELD Match grade bullets have a .646 BC, the 143gr ELD-X have a .625 BC, and the 147gr ELD Match bullet has a BC of .697 BC.

The 260 Remington doesn’t have as many options, which we will discuss later. The 130gr ELD Match bullet has a .506 ballistic coefficient.

The winner for this category is the 6.5 Creedmoor.

260 vs 6.5 Creedmoor: Stopping Power

Many argue stopping power is a relative term that doesn’t matter if you have a well-placed shot.

I agree it matters less for well-placed shots.

However, no matter how prepared we are as shooters, not every pull of the trigger is a well-placed shot.

That’s why stopping power still matters.

Stopping power can be measured in several ways, such as the size of the hole the bullet leaves and how deep it penetrates the target.

Sectional Density (SD) measures how well a bullet penetrates a target.

This is important when big game hunting because you need a bullet to punch through tough hide, bone, and sinew.

Sectional density is calculated by comparing the bullet weight and the bullet diameter.

The higher the number, the better it will penetrate the target.

Since both calibers shoot the same diameter bullet in varying weights, the sectional densities will be identical.

A 120gr .264″ diameter bullet has an SD of .246. The 140-grain .264″ diameter bullet has a sectional density of .287.

A 160gr .264″ diameter bullet has a sectional density of .328. A 156gr .264″ diameter bullet has an SD of .320.

However, other factors exist in terms of SD outside the shape of the bullet: velocity and bullet design.

Two bullets weighing the same but traveling at different velocities have differing stopping power or penetration amounts.

The higher velocity bullet will penetrate deeper.

The 260 Remington typically has a higher muzzle velocity of 2,941fps for a 120gr bullet and 2,793fps for a 140-grain bullet.

The 6.5 Creedmoor has a muzzle velocity of 2,892 feet per second for a 120-grain bullet and 2,678fps for a 140gr bullet.

Bullet design also plays a role. Non-expanding bullets penetrate deeper but won’t leave as large of a wound channel.

While expanding bullets cause a large wound channel but don’t penetrate as deep.

This section is a tie because the 260 Remington has a slightly higher muzzle velocity, and the 6.5 Creedmoor has more options for different bullet types.

Hunting

Both calibers offer many hunters an excellent option for whitetail deer hunting, mule deer, pronghorn, coyotes, and varmint hunting to 500 yards.

They can also take elk and bear out to 300 yards; however, I strongly recommend using a larger caliber for elk hunting and moose hunting.

These calibers don’t pack enough punch to harvest big game ethically at longer distances.

The .308 Winchester would be my hunting cartridge choice above the 260 Rem and the 6.5 Creedmoor when big game hunting.

With these rounds being so similar, neither has a distinct advantage in hunting, so this category is a tie.

.260 Remington vs 6.5 Creedmoor Home Defense

I don’t recommend using a rifle for home defense because they’re known for overpenetration.

Rifle rounds tend to go through multiple walls, which could unintentionally endanger your family and neighbors.

Instead of putting your family and friends at risk, I recommend using a 12-gauge or 20-gauge shotgun or a 45 ACP or 40 S&W.

Now, if it’s the apocalypse and you’ve got a zombie horde approaching, by all means, bust out the 6.5 Creedmoor or 260 Remington and protect your home.

However, for close-quarter combat, they’re not going to be my first choice despite both calibers being available in the AR-10 platform.

This section is a tie because the 6.5 Creedmoor and 260 Remington were designed for long-range shooting, not close quarters.

Ammo Cost & Availability

This is one area where the 6.5 Creedmoor begins to stand out.

Not so much in price because a cheap 6.5 Creedmoor round will cost anywhere from $1.75-$2.75 per round, depending on the brand and whether or not it’s FMJ or ELD ammunition.

Many brands manufacture 6.5 Creedmoor, such as Hornady, Sellier & Bellot, Winchester, Browning, and Aguila.

Since so many brands make ammo in this caliber, it’s relatively easy to find, considering the times.

The .260 Rem is different. Not as many companies manufacture ammo in this caliber, so it’s much more difficult to find.

However, once you find it, it’s similarly priced to 6.5 Creedmoor.

If you’re looking to save money, I suggest buying bulk 6.5 Creedmoor ammo because most companies offer steeper discounts when you buy in bulk.

The 6.5 Creedmoor wins because of the availability of the factory ammunition at a similar price.

Rifle Cost & Availability

The cost for rifles chambered in both calibers will be about the same.

For instance, a Savage Arms 110 Engage Hunter XP Rifle chambered in .260 Remington will cost about $540, and the same hunting rifles chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor will cost about $580.

However, most bolt-action rifles chambered in 260 Rem are out of stock. So though the prices are similar, very few guns are available compared to rifles chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor.

You can get around this by getting a custom gun made, but that comes at a custom price, which is always much higher than a factory rifle.

For example, a Tikka 260 Remington Ss starts at $1,150, which is on the cheap end, whereas a Ruger M77 Hawkeye starts at around $830.

The winner is the 6.5 Creedmoor because of the abundance of rifles available.

Reloading

Reloading is another way to save money on ammo. It also gives you more control over the final product than factory ammo.

You can control all the controllable variables and craft the perfect round for your rifle.

Most serious shooters love handloading because of the increased control of the entire process.

Both calibers are capable of being reloaded. There are plenty of information and supplies available to successfully handload either round.

This category is a draw.

260 Remington vs 6.5 Creedmoor Ballistics

If you’re a ballistics nut, then you’ll love this section. I will say there is very little difference in the ballistics of each caliber.

260 Remington Ballistics

As I mentioned earlier, the muzzle velocity of the .260 Remington varies from 2,941 fps with a 120-grain bullet to 2,793 with a 140-grain bullet.

As far as muzzle energy goes, the 260 Remington has 2,305 ft-lbs to 2,425 ft-lbs depending on the weight of the bullet.

As the distance from the muzzle increases, the difference in energy decreases. At 500 yards, a 120gr bullet has 975 ft-lbs of energy, and a 140gr bullet has 979 ft-lbs of energy.

6.5 Creedmoor Ballistics

Note: This information comes from the manufacturer and is for informational purposes only. The actual ballistics obtained with your firearm can vary considerably from the advertised ballistics. Also, ballistics can vary from lot to lot with the same brand and type load.

260 Remington Development

The 260 Remington was a wildcat cartridge until Remington standardized it in 1997, but they weren’t the first to try to standardize it.

A-Square LLC first submitted the proposal and drawings to SAAMI, but in the end, the cartridge was named after Remington.

It was created by necking down a .308 Winchester cartridge.

This round is most popular in the tactical and competitive shooter realms but is an effective hunting cartridge in a short-action rifle.

This round has been unsuccessful commercially in the US, but that’s not the case in Europe due to the popularity of 6.5mm bullets.

6.5 Creedmoor Development

Hornady debuted the 6.5 Creedmoor in 2007 as a “do anything” cartridge. Competition shooters were the first to jump on board and had immediate success using the caliber.

Big game hunters were more skeptical because the round lacks the weight often needed to bring down big game ethically. Though it has proved capable of bringing down some of the biggest game in the world, many hunters have other preferences.

The 6.5x55mm Swedish is the cartridge that Dennis DeMille based the 6.5 Creedmoor on.

Parting Shots

By now, you see that there is little difference between the 260 Remington vs 6.5 Creedmoor, yet the 6.5 Creedmoor is much more popular because of the greater availability of the rifles and ammo.

The .260 Remington won 1/10 categories. At the same time, the Creedmoor won 4/10 categories.

That means they tied in 5/10 sections due to their similarities.

The average shooter won’t notice the minute differences but should go with a 6.5 Creedmoor because of its availability.

The ability to hit a fast-moving bird is the most important aspect of teal hunting, but having the right choke in your shotgun when the bird finally commits to the decoys is second. In this guide, we’ll take a look at the three choke tubes that work well for hunting teal and why you should consider them.

The most popular steel shot sizes for teal hunting are #6 and #4. Choosing a choke tube that can deliver uniform patterns at the right distances is critical for early teal season success. Carlson’s Modified choke happens to pattern #6 shot extremely well, producing consistent results at 30 yards.

Top 3 Best Choke Tubes for Teal Hunting

These are the three chokes that you should consider for your next teal hunt that can provide dense and consistent patterns downrange with steel shot. As always, patterning your shotgun is extremely important to find out which choke tubes and ammo work best out of it.

1) Carlson’s Modified Choke Tube

Carlson’s is one of the most trusted choke tube brands in the industry and their extended modified choke is perfect for teal hunting. It delivers a dense pattern out to 35 yards with steel #6’s and makes for a versatile all-around choke tube for most teal hunting situations.

Regardless if you’re hunting the rice fields of Texas or the rivers of Arkansas, this choke performs exceptionally well at medium ranges over decoys for teal. #4 and #6 shot happen to be the sweet spot with this choke, and fast flying teal just can’t escape it. This is the TOP pick.

2) Patternmaster Code Black Choke

The Patternmaster Code Black is a top-of-the-line choke tube that provides unmatched performance for long-range teal hunting situations. If you’re thinking of picking up a new choke not just for teal, but to use all season long, this is the choke to consider.

The Patternmaster Code Black is great for field hunts, ponds, lakes, and rivers where the range of shots varies and you’ll be able to handle it all without having to change chokes mid hunt. Patternmaster works with internal studs that halt the wad just before it exits the barrel, resulting in a controlled wad seperation that increases pellet distribution and limits flyer pellets. Expect it to pattern closer to a full choke. This is the TOP pick for MAX range.

3) Carlson’s Cremator Choke Tube

The Carlson’s Cremator choke tube is an excellent choice for teal hunters who need a versatile choke that can perform well with a variety of shotshell loads. This choke tube uses a unique design that consists of multiple tapers, which work together to provide a consistent shot pattern. This makes the Cremator ideal for hunting situations where you need to be able to adjust your shooting style quickly and accurately.

The Cremator is equipped with triple shot technology which gradually compresses the shot column as it exits the barrel to prevent deformation. This is the perfect choke for medium range teal hunting with #4 and #6 shot. Carlson’s Cremator can produce 80% of pellets inside a 30-inch circle at 40 yards with the right ammo. This is the BUDGET pick.

Why a modified choke works best for Teal Hunting

Modified chokes are the middle ground of choke diameters (0.705”) and because of this are versatile in many different hunting situations. Chokes in modified can handle teal decoying close as well as long fast-moving passing shots as they attempt to exit.

Modified choke tubes work especially well with #6 steel shot and it’s not uncommon to pattern this choke and ammo combination and receive 80% coverage in a 30-inch circle at 30 yards. Steel shot also works well with an improved cylinder choke tube like the Carlson’s extended choke mentioned above.

How to hunt Teal

Teal are some of the easiest waterfowl to hunt during the special early season. They typically decoy with reckless abandonment and are suckers for spinning wing decoys. Your choke setup will likely need to be tailored to the types of teal you will be hunting and how they react to decoy spreads.

Teal hunting in tight spaces can limit which chokes are best. If most of your shots are in thick brush or dense vegetation, shots within 20-25 yards where an Improved Cylinder (0.715”) which opens the shot up quicker will be the top choice.

For teal in open terrain like rice fields where birds may pass from further out, the modified (0.705”) or improved modified (0.695”) are the top choices that will keep your pattern together for shots between 30 and 40 yards.

Teal Choke Tubes and Ranges

• Improved Cylinder (10-20 yards) – Up close decoying shots
• Modified (20-40 yards) – Decoying and medium passing shots
• Improved Modified (35-45 yards) – Long range decoying shots
• Full Choke (40-60 yards) – High flying birds over 40 yards

Ballistics show that a 1300 fps load of steel #6 shot enters 0.90″ of gel penetration at 30.5 yards, while a 1300 fps load of steel #4 shot enters 0.90″ of gel penetration at 33.4 yards. These are the max ranges for #6 and #4 steel shot while teal hunting.

The chart above shows the recommended choke tube and range in yards for teal hunting. Modified is the best choke for typical teal hunting shots that include close decoying and bird exiting scenarios. Improved cylinder is the best for close flushing shots just as the teal rises. Improved modified (IM) and full chokes are best for longer range shots after the bird is exiting and gained full momentum.

Teal Hunting Field Tips

• Get a set of improved cylinder, modified, and improved modified chokes
• This will let you switch chokes as conditions change
• Steel #6’s and an IC choke tube work well on close birds
• Keep shots below 40 yards, know your ammo and choke limitations
• A full choke may be needed for those days where birds are skirting the decoys
• Windy days, especially those with cross winds, you may need to up your pellet size
• Pattern your shotgun to find out what choke and ammo work best
• If using a tight choke, allow a bird decoying close to get distance before shooting

Modified choke tubes can take a lot of the guess work out of teal hunting. They usually work well with most ammo and won’t damage the birds at close ranges.

Having a set of choke tubes in your hunting vest or backpack is the best option that works well for changing conditions. You can tailor your setup to how teal are responding while in the field and changing a choke only takes seconds with a good choke wrench.

What to expect

When it comes to choosing the right choke tube for hunting teal, Carlson’s Modified choke stands out from its competitors. The Carlson’s Modified choke is engineered with a unique design that provides consistent and even shot patterns, resulting in better accuracy and a higher precision. Unlike most of its competitors, the Modified choke ensures that the shot is evenly distributed, reducing the chances of having holes or gaps in your pattern. Overall, the Carlson’s Modified choke is a top performer, delivering outstanding results that set it apart from the competition.

Bottom Line

Teal hunting requires a choke size geared toward the situation at hand. #6 and #4 steel shot are popular pellet sizes most teal hunters use. Naturally, finding a choke tube that patterns these loads well is key to success in the field.

A modified choke such as the extended chokes that Carlson’s offers work well for an all-around teal hunting choke tube with small steel shot. The Patternmaster Code Black and Carlson’s Cremator choke are two options for chokes you can use for teal season and also rely on in the general season as well.

Hunting teal and figuring out how the birds are responding will help determine which choke size you may need. Shots on teal in open terrain tend to be longer where a modified or improved modified are best. Teal in dense vegetation and brush may only require an improved cylinder for shots inside 20 yards.

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My thoughts on venomous snakes are well known among my hunting buddies. I think they have just as much right to be in the woods as I do. As a rule, I leave them alone and let them go about their snake lives while I go about mine. Growing up in an area with more than a few rattlesnakes and as dense a population of copperheads as anywhere I have ever traveled, I learned to watch for them at an early age.

That said, I’m a realist, and I know a lot of people don’t want them around their property, especially if children, livestock, or pets are in the area. So, any time I find out someone might be prone to killing a rattlesnake around their property, I always ask them to put them on ice and give me a call. Why, you might ask? Because rattlesnakes are delicious.

We’ve talked about frying them before here. But they are pretty good slow-smoked on the Traeger grill as well.

(Don’t miss: Deep-Fried Spicy Rattlesnake Recipe)

We’ve also talked about safety. Most people who get bitten by a venomous snake do so because they are messing with it. Don’t do that. Also, freshly killed rattlesnakes can still bite and can still inject venom. If you do kill one, use an ax, a shovel, or a machete to remove the head from a safe distance if the snake is freshly dead. If the snake has been frozen or on ice for a while, you are a little safer, but I still don’t like handling the business end of one. I don’t like to leave the heads where curious children or my dogs can pick it up, so I usually lop it off with a shovel, then dig a hole and use that same shovel to pick up the head and drop it into the hole and bury it.

If you’ve never skinned a rattlesnake, you can see the steps involved here. Once you get the snake skinned, vacuum seal and freeze it for storage, or go ahead and cook it right away. Rattlesnakes have a pretty short shelf life, even refrigerated.

(Don’t miss: How to Skin and Prepare a Rattlesnake for the Table)

Another concern with snakes is that they often carry salmonella. I wear disposable gloves while cleaning the snake, wash knives and cutting boards well with hot, soapy water afterward, and always cook to at least 160 degrees Fahrenheit internal temperature.

As far as the actual process of barbecuing a snake goes, there isn’t much to it. Skin the snake, remove the entrails, and rinse it well. Coat all surfaces of the snake well with your favorite BBQ rub. I used a combination of Traeger Big Game Rub and Traeger Fin & Feather.

Since snakes are shaped like, well, snakes, they can dry out pretty quickly at longer cooking times. To help combat this, I like to roll the snake up in concentric circles, and pin it together with a wooden skewer. Start from the tail section and roll the snake around itself, ending with head end on the outside. Run a wooden skewer in from the side to pin the rings together.

Move the rolled snake to a preheated Traeger grill with the temperature set at 225 degrees. Turn the SuperSmoke function on for more smoky flavor. About an hour into the cook, brush the snake with your favorite BBQ sauce. I used Traeger Texas Spicy for this one because it seemed like a perfect fit. Repeat the sauce every 15 minutes for the remainder of the cook.

Smoke the snake for 2 to 3 hours, or until a meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the meat reads 160 degrees. Rest the snake, loosely tented with foil, for 10 minutes or so before serving.

To serve, remove the wooden skewer and cut the snake into individual 4- to 5-inch sections, or just serve the snake on a cutting board or platter and let your guests pick the meat from the bones. Most of the meat will lie along the backbone, kind of a backstrap, so to speak, but you can also get meat from around the rib bones and along the belly.

We like to serve it with a cold beer for an appetizer.

(Hunt in any weather: Men’s Insulated Max-5 Waterproof Parka)

Tincturing is the use of alcohol to remove and ultimately preserve the medicinal compounds found in an herb or mushroom. Since chaga has both water- and alcohol-soluble compounds, a proper extraction will include both methods, called a “double extraction.” Adopted from Mushrooms for Health: Medicinal Secrets of Northeastern Fungi by Greg Marley.

Ingredients:

• Dried chaga, chopped or ground as finely as possible
• Grain alcohol (ethanol) or vodka (100 proof or higher)
• Spring water or distilled water

Equipment:

• Stainless steel or enameled cooking pot or a slow cooker (e.g. Crock pot)
• Cheesecloth
• Glass jars with clean, tight lids
• Liquid measuring cup with clearly marked graduations
• Chef’s thermometer with probe – optional

Step 1: Alcohol Extraction

Dried chaga should be crushed or otherwise reduced into the smallest pieces possible, using a hammer, mortar/pestle, or meat grinder. The resultant dry material should be placed in a glass jar and covered completely with alcohol, capped, and placed in a dark space away from direct sunlight. Shake or stir the material every few days, adding alcohol as needed to keep the chaga covered. After 2 to 4 weeks strain the mixture through several layers of cheesecloth and keep both the alcohol portion (tincture) and solid portion (marc).

Step 2: Hot-Water Decoction

Place the marc portion in a pot or slow cooker and cover with just enough water to submerge it. Cook uncovered for two or more hours at just below boiling, adding water as necessary while the mixture reduces. Cool and strain the resulting marc, keeping the liquid portion (decoction).

Step 3: Mixing the Finished Tincture

Measure the volume of your liquid extracts (both the alcohol tincture and decoction). The final tincture product should be at least 25 percent alcohol for proper preservation, so knowing the proof used in the initial alcohol tincture prep is important. For example, if you used 100 proof vodka (which is 50 percent alcohol) and ended up with 12 ounces of tincture, half of that volume is pure alcohol (or 6 ounces). Therefore, the finished tincture in this instance would be 24 ounces; 6 ounces of alcohol, 6 ounces of water (from the initial alcohol tincture) and 12 ounces of decoction. Calculating the alcohol to water ratio needed for your final product is easiest if using pure liquor but can become confusing if using less concentrated alcohols. Keep the following equation in mind:

A + B + C = 4A

Where:

A = Volume of pure alcohol (Initial alcohol tincture volume X percent concentration of alcohol used)

B = Volume of water in initial alcohol tincture (Initial alcohol tincture volume – A)

C = Volume of decoction

4A = the maximum volume of the finished tincture resulting from the addition of the correct volume of decoction

As an example, if you began with 190 proof liquor resulting in 12 ounces of initial alcohol tincture volume, the mixture would be 95% alcohol, and your equation for determining the amount of decoction to add for the final product would be:

(12 x .95) + (12 – 11) + C = 4A, or

11 oz + 1 oz + C = 44 oz, solving for C gives us 32 oz.

Keep in mind when calculating the volume of total alcohol and have to round off the result, round down. In this instance the final amount of tincture is 44 oz, therefore requiring 32 oz of decoction be added to the 12 ounces of initial alcohol tincture volume, giving us the proper 75 percent water / 25 percent alcohol ratio.

Combine the correct amounts of initial alcohol tincture and decoction. Stir or gently shake the mixture prior to dividing it up into smaller containers. Store in a dark space. Tinctures will last for several years if properly made and stored.

T2019 archery tournaments are in full speed, and you might be wondering the equipment that’s being used in the highest levels of competition. Improve your overall accuracy and competitive-edge with these top compound target bows.

Mathews – TRX 38

Built off of the proven design of the longer TRX models, the 38 inch axle-to-axle TRX38 fills the void perfectly for shooters looking for a shorter, lighter, more comfortable bow for their draw length. Draw lengths range 23 inches to 30 inches and draw weight goes from 50 pounds up to 70 pounds on the TRX 38. The new 70V percent mod gives shooters a deeper valley while the 80 and standard 70 percent mods remain an option. A true-center nocking point ensures straight and level nock travel, further enhancing shot-to-shot consistency and a 7.5-inch brace height provides unmatched forgiveness. Learn more at Mathews’ website.

Xpedition – Perfexion XL

The Perfexion XL brings to bear the full scope of Xpedition’s aerospace pedigree to influence archery design and unparalleled precision manufacturing. The Perfexion XL’s features the PXT dual limb stop hybrid cam with an unprecedented 6” of draw length adjustment on one base cam, ½” modular draw adjustment and Xpedition’s signature adjustability. The Perfexion XL is fast enough for 3D in spite of its 8” plus brace height, yet still prioritizes the smooth draw that target archers require. Its rigid riser defies flex and recovers with the consistency that had previously been reserved for shoot through designs. It is engineered and assembled to make scores climb and X rings easier to hit. Learn more at Xpedition Archery’s website.

Martin – Axxon 36

The Martin Axxon 36 features the new Tri Loc system. The Tri Loc Axle Cap allowing calibrated cam system clearance and minimal friction for maximum performance and the Tri Loc Axle Cap ensures the setscrew locks into the riser. The Tri Loc Limb Pocket bolts into limbs for the perfect lock and alignment. Balanced Bow Technology provides proper grip location, parallel limbs and weight distribution providing an extremely adjustable and stable shooting platform. The Axxon 36 features Dual Sync Technology providing a smooth draw, quick arrow speeds, and easy tuning for proper arrow flight. No need to worry about cam lean and serving wear thanks to the Helix Cam with the Helix Groove. Limbs come in a 35-50 pound option, adjustable in 5-pound increments, with the Helix Short Draw. The Axxon 36 delivers speeds of 333 fps with a brace height of 6 7/8 inches and 36 ½ inch axle-to-axle length. Learn more at Martin Archery’s website.

Elite – Victory X

Elite Archery’s Victory X target bow is sculpted with Elite shootability and consistency. The Victory X is a bow that delivers 327 fps speeds and starts at 50 pound draw weight and 26 inch draw length. Weighing only 4.4 pounds, the Victory X is built on the high performing Victory platform and features perfect synchronization of the famed two-track cam system. Dual track binary cams with inset mods give the shooter a stable, noise free, draw length specific cam that will remain true to its original setting. The Victory X weighs a mere 4.4 pounds meaning that you can shoot heavy large diameter arrows in tournaments where speed is limited. Learn more at Elite Archery’s website.

Bowtech – Reckoning

The Reckoning was engineered as the first bow to feature DeadLock technology, providing reliable accuracy. This premier bow focuses on a “crossover” product role, and is at home equally as a Target/3D bow in addition to a longer length axle-to-axle hunting bow option. The Bowtech Reckoning features DeadLock Cams offering the ability to quickly and easily adjust the string path and put the energy directly behind the arrow without a bow press. DeadLock features a patented adjustment system that adjusts the cams left or right to perfect the string path and locks down for accuracy that is precise for life with the simple turn of a screw. Deadlock Pocket Locks the entire bow structure as one and eliminates unwanted, accuracy-robbing component movement shot-to-shot. Deadlock Cable Containment reduces torque and increases forgiveness on every shot, translating into consistent accuracy. Learn more at Bowtech’s website.

Hoyt – Prevail Series

The Hoyt target compound lineup is legendary for setting the standard of tournament level accuracy. The Prevail series boasts the XT2000 limb, SVX and X3 Cam & ½ Performance Systems, and more. You will also appreciate the additional rear stabilizer location, which is compatible with Hoyt’s hard-lock rear stabilizer system. The Prevail includes proven Shoot-Thru Riser Technology, 4-angle modular grip system, and adjustable 4-position cable guard technology. The modular grip system allows fine-tuning your grip pressure by changing the angle of the grip with 4 different grip modules: 0, +2, +4 and +6 degrees, with 0 being the standard angle. Top and bottom cams are fused together by a harness system, ensuring they fire at the exact same time, every time, for ultimate consistency and accuracy. Learn more at Hoyt’s website.

By GunSpot

In the late 1890s, the U.S. military began using a newly developed round that would command the battlefield all the way to World War II. The .30-06 caliber was a cutting-edge ammunition technology now that smokeless powder had almost completely replaced blackpowder. It served well on the battlefield chambered in the 1903 Springfield bolt-action rifle during the First World War and, of course, in the M1 Garand during the next World War.

With new advancements, forces needed the performance of the .30-06 150-gr. load, but in a shorter cartridge — which required a shorter action. That is how the 7.62x51mm NATO round, and its .308 Winchester civilian sibling, was born. In 1952, the round was introduced commercially after being developed for the military. Two years later it was adopted by NATO with its new designation being 7.62×51 NATO.

The United States has long loved the .30-caliber round and it has been used in standard-issue rifles and machine guns for decades. In fact, militaries around the world have used guns chambered in .308. Popular guns like the M14, M60, M1919 and countless others. The .308 caliber is fast and carries one heck of a punch. But how effective is the caliber at distance?

In this video and article, I explore the effective range of the .308.

Reaching Out

The .308 Winchester is the most popular sniper/counter-sniper round by far. It far outweighs any other caliber when it comes to standard-issue rifles.

But first off, let’s define what “effective” is. When we talk about the effectiveness of a caliber, we are usually referring to the distance that the round can still humanely kill.

In a hunting scenario, it’s not good sportsmanship to wound your game, only leaving them to die a slow death or live the rest of their lives maimed. If you are hunting prairie dogs, .308 would be lethal easily out to a mile. However, if we are talking about shooting that medium-size North American game like a whitetail deer, the distance would be much closer. In fact, I argue that the effective range of .308 on deer is 300 yards.

The round easily has enough energy to kill whitetail deer at 300 yards. But by 500 yards, the bell-shaped trajectory of the .308 makes the shot unethical for the majority of shooters. Now, before you .308 lovers hate on me, that doesn’t mean you couldn’t do it. But if your skillset doesn’t include high accuracy at that distance, it wouldn’t be right for you to take the shot.

We asked Maximum Life Expectancy’s Chief Instructor, Grant LaVelle, about his past as a Marine and SWAT sniper. In the Marine Corps, they would shoot .308 to 1,000 yards; however, in SWAT it was much closer. What was preached to SWAT snipers was that in a law enforcement capacity there were no second shots. In certain military situations, that might be acceptable. But in law enforcement, snipers need immediate incapacitation to save lives.

When a sniper fires a round, he needs complete de-amination of the threat. So, we are talking about 100% accuracy in the cranial vault that houses the brain. If hostages are involved, which they often are, the police can’t have there be any chance of causing harm to innocent lives. Grant stated they were never granted clearance to take a shot over 200 yards. In most cases, that would require a special circumstance, special permission and thoughtful consideration.

Conclusion

So, what is the effective range of .308? It depends on the need.

If we are talking about putting down a moose versus taking down a prairie dog, the distance will vary. Can it kill at one mile? Yes, but it depends on what you’re shooting.

If you want to just hit a steel target it could even shoot farther than a mile. In a law enforcement sniper application, however, it seems they won’t take a shot over 200 yards unless absolutely necessary.

Editor’s Note: Please be sure to check out The Armory Life Forum, where you can comment about our daily articles, as well as just talk guns and gear. Click the “Go To Forum Thread” link below to jump in and discuss this article and much more!

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Featured in this video

If you’re anything like me, you know that landing a monster flathead catfish is an exhilarating experience. But here’s the thing: to increase your chances of success, you need to choose the right hook size.

The ideal hook size for flathead catfish depends on several factors. For average-sized flatheads, medium-sized hooks, ranging from 1/0 to 3/0, are commonly used. However, if you’re targeting smaller or trophy-sized flatheads, adjusting the hook size to smaller or larger is recommended. It’s important to consider the fish size, bait selection, and fishing technique when choosing the right hook size. Experimentation and experience will help you determine the best hook size for your specific fishing situation.

That’s why in this ultimate guide, I’ll walk you through everything you need to know about selecting the perfect hook size for flathead catfish. Let’s get started!

Understanding the Flathead Catfish

Flathead catfish, scientifically known as Pylodictis Olivaris, are native to North America and are widely distributed across rivers, lakes, and reservoirs. They are highly adaptable and can thrive in various aquatic environments. One of the distinguishing features of flathead catfish is their flattened head, which gives them their name. They have a broad, muscular body covered in mottled brown or yellow-brown skin, helping them camouflage in their surroundings.

These fish can grow to impressive sizes, with adult flathead catfish commonly reaching lengths of 2 to 3 feet and weighing between 20 and 50 pounds. However, they can grow even larger, with trophy specimens tipping the scales at over 100 pounds. Landing a trophy flathead catfish is every angler’s dream!

Flathead catfish are primarily nocturnal, which means they are more active during the night. They are opportunistic predators and feed on a diverse diet consisting of fish, crustaceans, insects, frogs, and even small mammals. Their preferred hunting strategy is to lie in wait and ambush their prey, relying on their powerful jaws and sharp teeth to secure their meal.

When it comes to habitat preferences, flathead catfish are often found in areas with submerged structures, such as fallen trees, brush piles, and rock formations. These structures provide cover and attract smaller fish and prey, making them ideal hunting grounds for flathead catfish. They are also known to seek out deeper holes and channels, especially during the daytime when they tend to be more inactive.

Understanding the behavior and habitat preferences of flathead catfish is crucial for successful fishing. By targeting areas with cover and using the right techniques and bait, you’ll increase your chances of enticing these elusive predators and reeling in the catch of a lifetime.

Now that you have a solid understanding of flathead catfish, let’s continue our exploration by diving into the significance of hook size and how it affects your fishing success.

The Significance of Hook Size

Now that you have a good grasp of flathead catfish and their behavior, let’s delve into the significance of hook size when it comes to targeting these remarkable fish.

Choosing the appropriate hook size is critical for several reasons:

1. Hooking Efficiency: Flathead catfish have relatively small mouths compared to their body size. Using a hook that is too large can make it difficult for the fish to take the bait fully or result in a poor hookset. On the other hand, a hook that is too small may not provide enough surface area to effectively penetrate the fish’s tough mouth. By selecting the right hook size, you maximize your chances of effectively hooking the fish and keeping it securely on the line.
2. Natural Presentation: Flathead catfish can be quite cautious and discerning when it comes to biting. They are skilled predators that rely on their instincts to detect and assess potential prey. Using a hook that matches the size of the bait you’re using creates a more natural presentation. A properly presented bait, with the hook concealed within, increases the likelihood that the catfish will strike without hesitation.
3. Adaptability to Fish Size: Hook size plays a crucial role in adapting to the size of the flathead catfish you’re targeting. Different bodies of water may have varying populations of fish, ranging from smaller juveniles to larger, more mature specimens. By choosing the right hook size, you can optimize your chances of catching fish within the size range prevalent in your fishing location.

It’s important to note that hook size is not the only factor that influences fishing success. Bait selection, fishing technique, and even environmental conditions all play a part. However, selecting the appropriate hook size sets the foundation for a successful fishing experience.

In the next section, I’ll explore the key factors to consider when choosing the right hook size for flathead catfish, including the targeted fish size, bait selection, and fishing technique. So, stay tuned to ensure you’re armed with the knowledge you need to make the right hook size decisions on your next fishing adventure.

Factors to Consider When Choosing Hook Size

When it comes to choosing the right hook size for flathead catfish, several factors come into play. Let’s take a closer look at these considerations to help you make informed decisions on the water.

• Targeted Fish Size: The size of the flathead catfish you’re aiming to catch is an essential factor in determining the appropriate hook size. If you’re fishing in an area known for smaller-sized flatheads, using a smaller hook size, such as sizes 2 to 4, can be effective. This ensures that the hook fits comfortably in the fish’s mouth and increases your chances of a successful hookset. Conversely, if you’re targeting larger trophy-sized flatheads, you’ll want to opt for larger hooks, such as sizes 4/0 and above, to handle their powerful bites and provide better hooking opportunities.
• Bait Selection: The size and type of bait you’re using also influence the choice of hook size. Matching the hook size to the bait size is crucial for presenting a natural and enticing offering to the flathead catfish. If you’re using smaller bait, such as worms or small minnows, a smaller hook, around sizes 2 to 4, is appropriate. On the other hand, if you’re using larger bait, such as large shad or live bluegills, a larger hook size, such as 3/0 to 4/0, will accommodate the bait’s size and help secure a solid hookset.
• Fishing Technique: The fishing technique you employ plays a role in hook size selection as well. Different techniques, such as bottom fishing, drifting, or using floats, require different hook sizes to optimize success.
• Bottom Fishing: When bottom fishing, where your bait is stationary on the river or lakebed, using larger hooks, such as sizes 3/0 to 5/0, can be beneficial. These larger hooks allow the catfish to take the bait without feeling excessive resistance, increasing the chances of a successful hookset.
• Drifting or Drift Fishing: If you’re employing a drifting technique, where you allow your bait to move with the current, slightly smaller hooks, such as sizes 2/0 to 3/0, can be more suitable. These hooks provide better sensitivity and allow for quicker response when you feel a bite or nibble while the bait is in motion.

Remember, these recommendations are not set in stone and can vary based on your fishing location, prevailing conditions, and personal experience. It’s always a good idea to experiment and adjust your hook size based on the specific situation you find yourself in.

Stick around to discover the hook sizes that are most likely to lead you to fishing success!

Hook Size Recommendations for Flathead Catfish:

Now that you understand the factors that influence hook size selection, let’s dive into some practical hook size recommendations for targeting flathead catfish. Remember, these recommendations are based on general guidelines, and you may need to adjust them based on your specific fishing conditions and personal preferences.

Small Hooks (Size 2 to 4)

Using smaller hooks, such as sizes 2 to 4, can be effective in certain situations:

• Juvenile Flathead Catfish: If you’re fishing in an area where smaller flatheads are prevalent, opting for smaller hooks is a wise choice. These hooks fit comfortably in the smaller mouths of juvenile flathead catfish, increasing your chances of a successful hookset.
• Light Tackle Fishing: If you prefer a lighter tackle setup or enjoy the challenge of finesse fishing, smaller hooks are suitable. They provide a delicate presentation and can be effective in enticing cautious or finicky flathead catfish.

Medium Hooks (Size 1/0 to 3/0)

Medium-sized hooks, ranging from sizes 1/0 to 3/0, are versatile and suitable for various fishing scenarios:

• Average-sized Flathead Catfish: When targeting adult flathead catfish of average size, these hooks offer a good balance between hooking efficiency and versatility. They can handle a variety of bait sizes and are appropriate for most fishing techniques.
• Multi-Species Fishing: If you’re fishing in an area where flathead catfish coexist with other species like channel catfish or smaller gamefish, medium-sized hooks are a reliable choice. They can accommodate different bait sizes and increase your chances of targeting multiple species.

Large Hooks (Size 4/0 and Above)

Larger hooks, starting from size 4/0 and going higher, are suitable for specific scenarios:

• Trophy Flathead Catfish: When you’re targeting monster-sized flathead catfish or fishing in waters known for producing giant specimens, using larger hooks is recommended. These hooks provide the strength and durability required to handle the powerful strikes and aggressive fights of trophy fish.
• Using Large Live Bait: If you’re presenting large live bait, such as sizable shad or bluegills, using larger hooks ensures a proper fit and improves your chances of securing a solid hookset.

Remember, these recommendations are not definitive rules but serve as a starting point. Factors such as local fishing regulations, water conditions, and personal preferences may require adjustments. It’s always a good idea to experiment with different hook sizes to find what works best for you in your specific fishing environment.

Next, ‘ll explore other factors to consider alongside hook sizes, such as hook type, line selection, and additional tips for successful flathead catfish fishing.

Other Factors to Consider:

When selecting the right hook size for flathead catfish, there are a few other factors to keep in mind to optimize your chances of success. Let’s explore these additional considerations:

Hook Type

Beyond hook size, the type of hook you choose can also impact your fishing experience. Here are a couple of options to consider:

• Circle Hooks: Circle hooks are popular among anglers targeting flathead catfish due to their high hooking and holding capabilities. These hooks are designed to rotate and lodge in the corner of the fish’s mouth, reducing the risk of deep hooking and increasing the chances of a successful catch-and-release.
• J Hooks: Traditional J hooks are effective as well, especially when using live bait or natural presentations. Their design allows for easy hooksets, and they work well for anglers who prefer a more direct approach to hooking flathead catfish.

Ultimately, the choice between circle hooks and J hooks depends on your personal preference, fishing technique, and local regulations. Experimentation and experience will help you determine the best hook type for your flathead catfish adventures.

Line and Leader Selection

While hook size is crucial, it’s equally important to pair your chosen hook with the appropriate line and leader. Here are a few considerations:

1. Line Strength: Opt for a sturdy fishing line with sufficient strength to handle the weight and fighting power of flathead catfish. Braided lines, in the 20 to 40-pound test range, are commonly used due to their high tensile strength and sensitivity. Monofilament lines in a similar strength range are also suitable options.
2. Leader Material: Consider using a leader between your mainline and hook to protect against abrasion from the fish’s rough mouth and potential snags. Fluorocarbon leaders in the 20 to 40-pound test range are often preferred, as they offer durability, low visibility, and excellent abrasion resistance.

Ensure that your line, leader, and hook size are properly matched to maintain a balanced setup and maximize your chances of landing those big flathead catfish.

Additional Tips for Successful Flathead Catfish Fishing

Here are a few extra tips to enhance your chances of success:

1. Proper Hook Setting: When you feel a bite or see your line moving, it’s crucial to set the hook properly. Instead of a forceful strike, use a firm and steady hookset to ensure the hook penetrates the fish’s tough mouth.
2. Fish Handling: Take care when handling flathead catfish to protect both yourself and the fish. Use appropriate fish-handling tools, such as lip grips or landing nets, and avoid squeezing the fish excessively to minimize stress and potential injury.
3. Experiment and Adapt: Fishing for flathead catfish can vary greatly depending on factors like location, time of day, and weather conditions. Be open to trying different techniques, bait choices, and hook sizes to find what works best for your specific fishing scenario.

Tips for Successful Flathead Catfish Fishing

As I wrap up this guide on choosing the right hook size for flathead catfish, let’s cover 7 additional tips and tricks to boost your chances of a successful fishing experience. These insights will help you refine your approach and make the most of your time on the water.

1. Location is Key: Flathead catfish are often found near submerged structures, such as fallen trees, rock formations, and brush piles. These areas provide cover and attract prey, making them prime hunting grounds for flatheads. Target these locations to increase your chances of finding active fish.
2. Time of Day Matters: Flathead catfish are primarily nocturnal, so fishing during the early morning or late evening hours tends to be more productive. However, they can also be active during low-light conditions and even during the day in certain situations. Pay attention to the fish’s behavior and adjust your fishing times accordingly.
3. Live Bait vs. Cut Bait: Flathead catfish are opportunistic predators and respond well to live bait. Consider using live bait, such as shad, bluegills, or large nightcrawlers, to entice these fish. Alternatively, cut bait, such as chunks of fresh fish or prepared stinkbaits, can also be effective. Experiment with different bait options to see what the fish are most responsive to on a given day.
4. Patience is a Virtue: Flathead catfish can be elusive and require patience. Be prepared to wait for the fish to find your bait and take it. Give them time to fully engulf the bait before setting the hook. Avoid rushing the process and be ready for sudden, powerful strikes.
5. Vary Your Techniques: Flathead catfish respond to different fishing techniques. Experiment with various methods such as bottom fishing, drifting, or casting and retrieving to see what works best in your fishing spot. Adapt your approach based on the conditions and fish behavior.
6. Stay Safe: When targeting flathead catfish, be aware of your surroundings and exercise caution. These fish have sharp spines on their pectoral and dorsal fins, which can cause injury. Handle them carefully, wear protective gloves if necessary, and be mindful of hooks and lines.
7. Learn from Experience: Fishing for flathead catfish is a continuous learning process. Keep a fishing journal to record your catches, techniques, and observations. Over time, you’ll develop a deeper understanding of their behavior and refine your strategies accordingly.

Remember, fishing is about more than just catching fish—it’s about enjoying the experience and immersing yourself in nature. Take the time to appreciate the beauty of your surroundings and the thrill of the chase.

Conclusion

In conclusion, selecting the right hook size for flathead catfish is crucial for optimizing your chances of success on the water. By considering factors such as the targeted fish size, bait selection, and fishing technique, you can make informed decisions.

Remember to adapt and experiment based on your specific fishing conditions and preferences. As you embark on your flathead catfish adventures, cherish the joy of being in nature and the thrill of the chase. Respect the environment, follow fishing regulations, and practice responsible fishing. Now, go out there, cast your line, and create unforgettable memories while reeling in those prized flathead catfish.

Tight lines and happy fishing!

Next Read: What Size Hook For Cobia Fishing? Dominate Cobia Fishing

You and your buddies have talked about it for years. Well, no more excuses. Pack up your rig, point it west and hunt elk. Here’s how.

At 0430 last September, I poked my head into my 8-year-old daughter’s room to wake her up. In an hour, we’d be hiking in the dark to find a herd of elk near our home in Montana. As I closed the door to leave, I heard tell herself-just as she always says before a gymnastics tournament, test or swim meet, “You got this.”

On our hunt, we heard a few bulls bugle, and my daughter thought that was pretty cool. I didn’t have the heart to tell her we likely heard other hunters bugling, not actual elk. After all, we were on public land, not terribly far from an open road, and it was Saturday. But do-it-yourself (DIY) elk hunting on public land in the West is never a slam dunk. In fact, only around 20 percent of Montana elk hunters fill their tag in any given year.

While the odds aren’t great, don’t let that dissuade you from heading west to hunt elk; there are plenty of things you can do to tip the scales more to your favor. For that, I turned to Randy Newberg. Once a mild-mannered CPA living in Bozeman, Montana, Newberg has since given up counting beans to become a hunting “celebrity” and public lands advocate. His niche isn’t whacking and stacking giant bulls on some game farm. His style is as far from that as it gets. He’s dedicated his podcasts (Hunt Talk Radio), TV Show (Fresh Tracks), and YouTube channel (Randy Newberg, Hunter) to the DIY, public land hunter. And he’s killing elk every year at the spry age of 56.

Newberg grew up in the Midwest fishing for walleye and hunting cagey whitetails. He’s honed his tips for elk hunters through his own trial and error, and he never pulls any punches when it comes to teaching others about hunting elk. “I am so thankful that I was a whitetail hunter when I moved west because it caused me to fail,” he says. “I view every hunt, whether I kill an elk or not, as a success as long as I learn something.” And that, as you will find, is exactly the attitude you need to succeed at elk hunting.

Where to Start Your Elk Hunt

If you’ve read this far, chances are you’ve considered the idea of hunting elk. Great, now convince some buddies they want to hunt elk, too, but be discerning. “Picking the right people is huge,” Newberg says . “Make sure everyone is compatible. Go on a camping trip first. A hunt isn’t the place to sort out who you want in a foxhole with you.”

Once you’ve got one or two good friends on board, it’s time for a heart-to-heart about what the definition of a “successful” public land elk hunt looks like. “Elk hunting is not typically a one and done thing,” he says. “If that’s your definition, then go to a ranch. If you want to become an elk hunter, then you have to keep at it.” Put another way, manage your expectations. If your one goal is to come home with a big bull to hang on the wall, then a DIY, public land elk hunt isn’t for you. If your goal is to try something new, be physically and mentally challenged and make memories to last a lifetime, then you’re on the right track. For perspective, it took Newberg seven years to kill his first elk-and he lives a stone’s throw from some of the best elk hunting in the county.

Now, decide on the state where you want to hunt. If you want to go right now, or maybe next year, many first-time elk hunters look to a state like Colorado that offers ample over-the-counter (OTC) tags. Plus, Colorado has around 250,000 elk, by far the most of any state. Most of those elk are going to be cows, you know, the ones without antlers. If you’re on a tight budget and this is your first time hunting elk, consider hunting a cow. No, they don’t sport antlers, but they are absolutely delicious and way more abundant than a 300-inch herd bull.

Navigating the hunting regulations for a new state can be harder to understand than your truck’s wiring diagram, but you don’t have to go it alone. There are a number of websites and services out there dedicated to help you find your tag and take your money. For instance, if you choose to hunt Montana, the state offers a Hunt Planner, which may or may not work depending on the moon phase. When it works, the planner comes complete with maps, tags and hunting districts. Don’t be afraid to call your chosen state’s fish and game department, either. After all, your license money helps fund the department.

Do I Need New Gear to Hunt Elk?

Now that you’ve picked a state, convinced a couple of buddies to go and hashed out expectations, it’s time to talk gear. Fair warning: you need to buy less stuff than you think. “Gadgets and gizmos are not going to kill you an elk,” Newberg says. “If you think that’s all there is to it, then just give me the money. Educate yourself and get in the woods. Feed your brain-that’s the best tool you got.”

Hunters can and do get wrapped up in buying gear because it’s an easy way to prepare. Keep it simple. Don’t let gear consume you and your hunt. “Whatever you’ve got for your deer rifle (and if you shoot it well) just bring it,” he says. “Always beware the man who owns only one rifle.” The most popular elk calibers are .270, .30-06 and 7mm Remington Magnum. While ammo can be hard to find right now, you do need to practice and know your effective range. If you consistently shoot baseball-sized groups at 200 yards, you should be ready for the elk woods.

If you are looking to invest in one thing, buy a quality pair of binoculars. You’ll spend a fair amount of time simply looking for elk at dawn and dusk, and good glass really does help ease the strain on your eyes. If you plan on camping, make a list of items you think you’ll need and then see what you and your buddies lack. Buying a wall tent is much more reasonable when the cost is split three ways. Or you can stay at a local hotel where hot showers are always welcome after a long day of hunting.

Before you start the drive, you’ll want to have at least five spots picked out within the unit of the state for which you have a tag. This is critical. “But I’ve never been there. How am I supposed to know what to look for?” you say. I hear you. If you can’t scout with boots on the ground, then the next best thing is to scout from space. Use GoogleEarth or apps like onX and GoHunt to give you a bird’s eye view of the terrain.

Keep in mind that elk need three things: food, water and security. Look for areas away from open roads and easy hunter access. Open, south-facing hillsides or alfalfa fields entice elk to feed at dawn and dusk, while north-facing timber provides refuge and a place to hide. If you really want to get into the nitty-gritty (and you should), Newberg can help. He’s broken elk hunting down into five calendar seasons: early season, pre-rut, peak rut, post rut and late season. To learn more about this strategy, tune into his YouTube channel where he goes into each season in-depth. Also, check out his elk hunting e-guide, which you can download as PDF and read as you drive across the country to elk camp.

Time to Hunt Elk

Once you get to the mountains, you’ll soon realize why success rates are low. “You’re going to be completely intimidated by the landscape, its steepness, the vastness of the terrain and the low animal densities,” he says. Whatever you do, keep a positive attitude and take it easy. You’re supposed to be having fun, right?

Chances are, you’ll be sharing the landscape with other hunters, which is why you picked five spots before leaving home. Find the spot where there are the fewest hunters. Once there, spend the first three days just scouting and poking around. “You have to find elk first-that’s your biggest time commitment. The reason most people don’t kill an elk is because they can’t find an elk,” Newberg says.

You find elk by getting up in the dark, hiking to a high ridge or peak, sitting on your butt and looking through a spotting scope or binoculars at far off hills. Elk move most at dawn and dusk, so you need to be in position and looking at those times of day. And please, pack a headlamp. “Most of my friends who come from the Midwest are scared shitless to leave the truck before daylight,” Newberg says with a laugh. “There are tons of grown men who do not like being in the woods after dark. So, ask yourself what you’re afraid of and learn more about it. If you’re afraid of grizzly bears, then learn where they’re going to be and don’t be there.”

Sip your coffee and glass the hills, focusing on what’s closest to you first and then look to distant ridges. Check the immediate area for sign, too. Are there rubs, scat and beds? No? Then maybe you’re not in the right spot.

Just like whitetails, elk have a keen sense of smell. Let the wind dictate your movement. As a general rule, air (thermals) will descend down the mountain in the morning. By afternoon, those thermals will creep back upslope. If you’re hiking uphill in the morning, you’re off to a good start.

Let’s say you get lucky, make a great shot and have an elk down. Congratulations. Now, veteran elk hunters will tell you, the real work begins. Elk are big, like 500 pounds big. If you’re more than a few hundred yards from the truck, and most times you will be, you need to get that elk into manageable chunks. Don’t even try to drag it. Instead, quarter it. And guess what? Newberg can teach you how to do that, too, without even gutting it. It’s called the gutless method. If you Google “gutless method”, you will find plenty of videos online to walk you through the process. It’s a little daunting at first, but 80-pound quarters are a much more reasonable haul than trying to pack out an entire pony.

Hunting elk on your own isn’t impossible, but it’s not easy, either. “It’s going to be work, but it’s fun work,” Newberg says. Be honest with yourself, do your homework, make a plan and put in the work. Remember, you got this.

The Leupold VX-R packs some pretty impressive features into a relatively affordable package.

But what do those features mean for you? And is the Leupold VX-R worthy of a place atop your rifle?

In this Leupold VX-R review, I’ll answer that question and more.

Let’s get started!

Here’s My Leupold VX-R Review

The Leupold VX-R is a high-end scope with a mid-level price tag.

It’s durable, accurate, and lightweight. Plus, the Illuminated Ballistic Firedot reticle is excellent for rapid target acquisition.

In fact:

It’s one of my favorite hog gun scopes.

I expected quality from a Leupold scope, and I wasn’t disappointed. Here’s why…

Glass Clarity & Reticle

The glass is clear and produces a bright image.

The best part?

I can easily hunt in low light conditions (dawn or dusk). Here’s why:

Leupold applied their Index Matched Lens and Twilight Max management system. Combined, it allows for crazy bright views in dark conditions.

The VX-R uses one of my favorite red dot reticles:

The Ballistic Illuminated Firedot.

The dot is bright and draws the eye naturally to center without obscuring the target. This works especially well when I’m trying to take down running game.

The lines on the bottom post allow me to push my shots out beyond 200 yards and still maintain accuracy.

There are 8 brightness settings, and I was able to find the perfect settings for daylight and night shooting pretty quickly.

However, there was one thing I didn’t like about the VX-R:

The brightness button.

Instead of a dial, the VX-R uses a button to cycle between the light levels. And sometimes, it’ll get stuck. If this happens to you, simply unscrew the battery cap and put it back on, and the button should work fine again.

It’s not a deal-breaker, but I do wish they had a dial instead.

Speaking of dial, the VX-R uses a battery to power the illumination. It’s nice, crisp and equipped with an auto on/off feature.

This is literally a battery saver since I sometimes forget to turn off the illumination. Due to this, I didn’t need to change my battery for months now.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

The eye relief sits at a comfortable 3.7-4.2 inches.

I have mine right at 4 inches on my AR and it’s extremely easy and comfortable to line up with.

With that much eye relief, I could easily mount the VX-R on a higher recoiling rifle and not worry about scope bite.

Related: Best .300 Blackout Scopes and Optics

Eye box is generous and easy to settle into. I’ve found that it maintains field of view even when I zoom it all the way in.

Durability

The VX-R packs in all of the durability you’d expect from a Leupold scope.

The tube is machined from aircraft grade aluminum. This means that the tube is not only tough, but it’s also light, weighing in at 15.3 ounces.

The VX-R is waterproof up to a depth of thirty three feet. So if you accidentally drop your scope in water, it should still be fully functional.

It’s also fully fogproof and scratchproof – like the Leupold Rifleman 4-12×40 – so you can use it in all environments and conditions.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The turrets are easy to use and turn with a solid, stiff click.

I was able to zero the scope to 200 yards very quickly and have had no issues with any drifting, even after months of shooting.

The turrets proved to be reliable.

Speaking of which, Leupold offers CDS (Custom Dial System) elevation turrets that you can order specific for your caliber and bullet load. I didn’t find this necessary, but it’s a great option to have.

The CDS is a custom elevation dial tuned to your exact load, velocity, and shooting conditions. This means all you have to do is range your target, set the dial, and fire away.

Parallax & Magnification

The VX-R gives you 3-9x variable magnification which is great for close to mid-range shooting.

The best part?

The reticle is set in the second focal plane. Which means, when magnification is changed, the reticle’s size remains the same.

I’ve had zero problems with the reticle obscuring the target, even when I dial the magnification all the way up.

In fact, the image remains clear, even at 9x. No fuzziness or distortion — just a crisp view.

In case you’re wondering about parallax, there is none…

Because the VX-R comes from the factory with parallax eliminated. So all you have to do is zero it in and go shoot.

Mounting & Rings

If you don’t have a mount, I recommend using the Mark AR 30mm mount. It fits like a glove and holds zero well.

Also, the VX-R ships with a scope cover to help keep your scope clean and protected when not in use.

However, I’d recommend some Butler Creek flip-up lens caps (size 02A)…

…and a 40mm Leupold Sunshade if you shoot in sunny conditions.

Is The Leupold VX-R For You?

Overall, the Leupold VX-R is a monster of a mid-range scope, especially when used with an AR or other tactical rifle, like the M1A.

Here’s why. It’s got:

• Clear glass
• 3-9x magnification
• Second focal plane
• Auto-shutoff battery saver
• Reliable, hand adjustable turrets
• Ballistic Illuminated Firedot reticle
• Extremely durable, waterproof, and fogproof

The VX-R brings all the quality and reliability that I would expect from a Leupold but at a reasonable price. If you want to start stepping up your glass game, then the Leupold VX-R is for you.

Plus, the Leupold Lifetime Warranty means that even if you somehow manage to damage the VX-R, you’re covered.

So if you’re ready to take the next step in quality riflescopes, give the Leupold VX-R a try.

I doubt you’ll regret it.

FAQ

If you own a VX-R riflescope or recently bought one, how do you like it so far? Let me know in the comments below. Also, I’ve written an in-depth guide on the best .22-250 scopes on the market.