[PLEASE NOTE: This article originally appeared in the Jan. 2021 print issue of Firearms News. The ammunition prices mentioned herein are not current.]

I have been a Garandaholic since I was a teenager in the ‘70s. My interest in this great battle rifle was spurred by my father’s memories of his World War 2 service. Like many vets of World War 2 and Korea he spoke of the M1 with reverence. The only source for G.I. surplus M1s in my youth was the Director of Civilian Marksmanship (DCM), the forerunner of the current Civilian Marksmanship Program (CMP). I recall the DCM selling them for $99 each. The catch was that the buyer had to be an NRA High Power Rifle competitor and I didn’t start shooting in rifle competitions until over a decade later.

On December 11, 1975 I walked into a local gun shop and found a Garand for sale. It was built on a rewelded receiver and the barrel had been fabricated from a 1903A3 barrel, although I wasn’t aware of those things at the time. My fate was sealed. From that point on I would always have M1s. That first M1 remained in a closet during my tour with Jimmy Carter’s Army and I never really started shooting it until I became interested in High Power Rifle competition toward the end of the ‘80s. I re-barreled it to .308 for logistical reasons. The Maine Army National Guard marksmanship team issued me 7.62 NATO for practice and that beats buying ammo.

.308 Garands shoot quite well, but most of the rifles out there will still be found in .30-06. This old cartridge has been around for over a hundred years and it is still popular with hunters and military rifle shooters. The Garand, due to its gas-operated action, is easy on the shoulder compared to a bolt-action rifle firing the same round and it comes equipped with the best sights ever issued on a battle rifle. An old-school rifleman who appreciates wood and steel blasters will find the M1 a pleasure to shoot.

A concern of M1 shooters is finding the correct ammunition. But, you say, .30-06 ammo is everywhere. True, but a lot of the ammo commercially available today is not loaded to the original pre-World War 2 military spec for which the Garand was designed. The gas system was configured to operate efficiently and reliably with the military issue Caliber .30 Ball Cartridge M1 (and later M2). The gas port size and internal dimensions of the gas cylinder were optimized for the military powders of that era resulting in the correct bolt velocity as it travels rearward after unlocking. Excessive bolt speed can damage the weapon and in extreme cases the rear of the receiver may fail. One can only imagine the discomfort experienced by the shooter who is whacked in the face by a high-velocity receiver heel! For decades M1 shooters fired military surplus ammo with no worries but that supply is gone now. Luckily for Garandaholics, several commercial manufacturers have stepped up to the plate and offer specific loads tailored for the Garand gas system. The purpose of this article is to sort through current offerings testing them for accuracy, velocity and function so you can determine what product best fits your needs and budget. If Consumer Reports did ammo tests they would read something like this.

Test standards: All loads were fired for accuracy at 100 yards. Obviously, the heavy bullet loads would shine at longer distances, but my home range is 100 yards and considering the many man-hours spent testing a couple thousand rounds traveling to another range simply wasn’t feasible. Rifles were fired from a bench rest. I used a CTK Ultimate Shooting Rest for the M1s. The Savage bolt gun was fired from a bipod. As much as I would like to think of myself as a human machine rest I am just an old man who likes M1s but this was a pretty solid setup.

Targets were the IBS Hunter Rifle target with six bullseyes. I fired six five-shot groups with each type of ammo from each rifle and averaged the four best. Why five-shot clips? Because Firearms News test standards for rifles are based on five-shot groups so if you are comparing Garand accuracy to some other rifle we keep test standards uniform across the board. Five-shot clips are available for Garands (Brownell’s 901-000-004). I feel that averaging the groups of many targets results in a trend that reveals the most accurate loads. Shot groups were measured center to center with a caliper as accurately as possible.

To reduce human error, I fitted the M1 rifles with scopes. Heresy, you say. I agree, but the point of this test is to rate the accuracy of available ammo, not my marksmanship. Scopes reduce human error. Due to the top-loading design of the rifle, a scope cannot be positioned directly over the receiver. However, a “scout” scope with eye relief of approximately 9-1/2 to 10 inches mounted just forward of the receiver works fine. I used the Mini Scout Mount from Amega Mounts (AmegaMounts.com) which clamps to a standard profile M1 barrel replacing the rear handguard. The mount never loosened during testing.

I employed two different scopes: a Hi-Lux 2-7x BDC and a Burris 2-7x 32 Scout. All testing was done at 6x. The Burris was a bit brighter with a finer reticle but also cost over twice as much as the Hi-Lux. The first Hi-Lux I mounted failed after several hundred rounds. The manufacturer replaced it. If you shoot a lot, you know scopes will fail occasionally. If the manufacturer stands behind their product its nothing to worry about.

The rifles: All test rifles were from my personal collection. These are not match-conditioned rifles, but they were inspected for mechanical issues that may cause inaccuracy such as loose gas cylinders, poor op rod fit, little to no stock compression, etc. and corrected as needed. I guess you could say they were “blueprinted.” About halfway through the test, guns #2 and #3 stopped grouping. The actions were loosening in the stocks. To tighten them I inserted a short piece of 1/16″ walnut veneer under the forward end of the receiver rails. These pieces of wood served to lever the barrel upward slightly increasing pressure between the stock ferrule and lower band. Tensioning the barrel through shimming or bedding results in increased accuracy from M1s and M1As. After this simple modification, our test guns started shooting again.

Rifle #1 is a Korean War era M1 produced by H&R. I re-barreled it with a Fulton Armory standard weight barrel a dozen years ago. Aside from the commercial barrel it is a standard issue infantry rifle. When fed ammo of the correct spec it will function reliably and shoot accurately all day. The barrel probably had less than 200 rounds through it at the beginning of testing. This is one of my best shooting rifles.

Rifle #2 is from Springfield Armory and was produced in 1944. I purchased it from DCM in 1991 for $165 and it was shipped to me registered mail from Anniston Army Depot. It came equipped with a G.I. Springfield Armory barrel dated 10-63 and at the time this test commenced had approximately 2,000 rounds down the tube. It is 100% G.I. in issue condition. This rifle does not shoot as well as rifle #1 but with good ammo it will shoot almost as well. This is a beautiful weapon and I will probably never modify it.

Rifle #3 is another beautiful Garand purchased from CMP in 1999 for $400. This one sports a G.I. Springfield Armory barrel dated 12-65 with about the same wear on it as Rifle #2 as indicated by a G.I. throat erosion gage. The rifle went through a rebuild in 1966 at Red River Army Depot and probably didn’t see much use after that. Like the previous two rifles it is unmodified G.I. issue in excellent condition. This rifle was also used to chronograph all loads.

Rifle #4 is a Savage 110 Police Tactical rifle produced in the late ‘90s. I bought it used and I have no idea how many rounds it has digested but it is a reliable shooter producing slightly under 3/4 MOA groups with good ammo and I thought it would be interesting to throw a bolt gun into the mix to judge the accuracy of the loads if, for instance, you will be shooting a vintage sniper match with the same ammo. I did not have a 1903A4 available for testing. The Savage was bolted into a Bell & Carlson M40 style stock and equipped with a very nice 2.5-16×42 Bushnell Elite 6500 scope. One thing I noted about the Savage was from the first cold bore shot to the last shot from a smoking hot barrel the point of impact didn’t wander. The action has been blueprinted by Larry Racine, one of the great bolt rifle mechanics of our time.

Over 2,400 rounds were fired during this test. It took months to complete. 60 to 90 rounds were fired during each visit to the range and the rifle bores were patched out in between trips. Obviously, weather conditions varied.

The Ammo

A few comments are in order about the ammo I tested. Please note that any ammo purchased was pre-Wuhan Virus so ammo prices have increased compared to those I list in the ammo cost chart.

Black Hills

Black Hills has been a manufacturer of premium quality ammunition for many years. I have evaluated some of their offerings in 5.56mm, .308 Winchester and .45ACP but I was unfamiliar with their .30-06 ammo. I didn’t even know if it was compatible with the Garand gas system. I contacted them, and they assured me it was and sent test samples loaded with both 155 and 168-grain Hornady ELD-M projectiles. The accuracy of the Black Hills rounds was stunning. While testing the 155s I shot one five-round group that measured 1/2″ center to center. Amazing. And remember, I’m shooting G.I. issue grade rifles, not match rifles. The only downside to factory ammo this good is cost. At $2/round it simply isn’t practical for most of us to shoot it a lot. That being said, I will keep some Black Hills .30-06 ammo on hand for occasional use to impress my friends who think M1 Garands don’t shoot well. I love to prove them wrong…

Creedmoor

Creedmoor is the house brand ammo for the Civilian Marksmanship Program and is specifically loaded for Garands and vintage sniper rifles. I obtained it directly from CMP. The 150-grain FMJ-BT load consists of Hornady brass and bullets. Averaging less than 2 MOA in all three Garand test rifles and costing less than a buck a round this load would be a good choice for a rifleman who wants decent accuracy without taking out a second mortgage to pay for ammo. The second Creedmoor load I tested was loaded in Lapua brass (!) with Lapua 167-grain Scenar bullets and was a bit more expensive. I had high hopes for this load but at 100 yards it didn’t shoot better on average than the 150-grain load although the bolt gun liked it. The higher ballistic coefficient of the 167-grain bullet would be an advantage at longer ranges. At 100 yards I would stick with the 150 FMJ load for less money.

Ethiopian Surplus

I saw this Ethiopian ball for sale at SG Ammo. It was loaded in eight-round clips and packed in bandoliers, obviously loaded for Garands. I was not aware that Ethiopia manufactured their own ammo but the experts of the International Ammunition Association assured me they did in fact produce this stuff. The manufacturer’s code on the clips appeared to be French. The cartridge cases are Berdan primed and the primers are crimped. I experienced a few malfunctions in the Garands with this load and the Savage bolt action rifle would not chamber it. Closer inspection revealed the size of the cases (base to shoulder) was larger than what SAAMI would consider normal. Accuracy was not exceptional. Based on my experience with this load I cannot recommend it.

Federal American Eagle

I have shot a ton of Federal American Eagle AE3006M1 ammo in rifles I rebarreled for customers. It shoots quite well in new barrels with short throats but not so well in a G.I. barrel with a couple thousand rounds down the pipe. I believe this situation is caused by the short overall length of the round. For instance, the traditional OAL of the .30-06 cartridge in reloading manuals is 3.34 inches. A sample G.I. (LC72) M2 ball round I pulled out of my pile measured 3.33 inches. The Federal cartridge is 3.1 inches. The base to bullet ogive length was .128 of an inch shorter than the G.I. ammo from Lake City. This means the Federal bullet has to jump 1/8 of an inch farther before it engages the rifling. Looking at the accuracy chart, the Federal load shot great in Garand #1 with a fairly new barrel but really choked in the G.I. guns with throats that were farther forward. I like this round. It functions great in any Garand and the cost isn’t stupid. I just wish the bullet wasn’t stuffed so far down in the case.

German Surplus by MEN

I picked this stuff up on a whim. It was packed in 20-round cardboard boxes marked “.30 Browning.” I have no way of knowing if it is loaded to the correct pressure curve for M1s but if the label refers to the .30 Browning machinegun it should be ok. MEN is Metallwerk Elisenhutte GMBH, Nassau, Lahn, Germany. The number 67 probably refers to the year it was loaded. West Germany did employ M1 Garands after World War 2 to some extent. The brass is Berdan primed and the ammo functioned ok in the M1s. Accuracy was average. The bolt gun did not particularly like it. Cost was equal to the Privi Partizan and Sellier & Bellot offerings, but the brass is not reloadable, so I probably wouldn’t purchase this ammo again. Velocity was the highest of any ammo tested prompting me to worry about excessive bolt velocity in the Garands.

Greek Surplus Ball

The CMP sold this stuff for years with various headstamp dates packed loosely, on clips or in sealed metal tins. They have since run out of it and there is no source for it in quantity as far as I know. Some lots were better than others. Suitable for the weekend blaster or a highpower shooter practicing offhand, the brass is reloadable. Fifteen years ago, many of the choices we enjoy in commercial ammo loaded for Garands today didn’t exist and Greek was one of the few alternatives to handloading. That being said, I wouldn’t pay a premium for it today. Some of the Greek clips seem to be a bit out of spec in my experience. Like the Federal load, it seemed to do well in a new barrel but not so great in a used G.I. barrel.

Hornady

Hornady 168 grain A-Max is a load that has been discontinued. I had enough on hand to test it in 3 out of 4 rifles. It shot well but on average no better than the new ELD load.

Hornady 168 grain ELD Match was my second load from this manufacturer (Hornady.com). Cost, availability and accuracy considered, this was probably the best ammo of the whole test. Averaging over $.50 per round less than the excellent Black Hills load utilizing the same bullet, it was equal in accuracy. If I were buying match ammo to shoot out to 600 yards this would be the stuff. Hornady introduced this product and an earlier (slightly more expensive) version loading the A-Max bullet specifically for the Garand and vintage sniper rifles. Velocity is similar to the original M72 military match load. More expensive than the common M2 ball clones, but not excessively so, this product is a winner. In all three rack-grade rifles it averaged only 1.33 inches. My handloads aren’t quite that good but I’m working on it.

Lake City

I was fortunate to have stashed a quantity of LC 68 M72 Match which is an original military sniper load from years ago. Originally developed by Frankford Arsenal in the late 1950s, and standardized as Cal. 30 Match M72 in 1958, this load featured a 173-grain boattail full metal jacket bullet. Production appears to have ceased in late 1968, or thereabouts, so this particular lot may have been one of the last loaded by Lake City. Interestingly, it was still available to the Army National Guard into the 1990s. According to the History of Modern U.S. Military Small Arms Ammunition, Vol. 3 by Hackley, Woodin and Scranton (2015), M72 components (casings and bullets) continued to be produced into the 1970s for use by military teams with the last cases headstamped LC 78. In the unlikely event you can acquire a quantity of this ammo for a reasonable price keep in mind it shoots about 2 MOA in rack-grade guns. It may have been considered match grade 50 years ago, but times have changed, and bullets have improved in the interim. Your money will be spent more effectively on modern fodder such as the Hornady ELD load. That being said, the LC .30 cal. Match brass is very nice to reload if you can find some. My sample batch was loaded in 8-round clips, 264 rounds per .30 cal. ammo can.

LC 72 U.S.G.I. issue M2 ball ammo is where it all started. M2 ball ammo was approved as the U.S. issue rifle cartridge in 1940, replacing the previous M1 ball cartridge. Although the M1 rifle (adopted in 1936) was developed for M1 ammo, testing proved the new M2 round actually improved the performance of the Garand and M1 ball was phased out. The main difference between the two cartridges was bullet weight. M1 ball (standardized in 1926) was loaded with a 173-grain boattail bullet while the new M2 sported a 150-grain boattail bullet. Although corrosive priming was standard during wartime M2 production, non-corrosive primers were developed during the war and incorporated into M2 production by the early 1950s. During World War 2, M2 ball was replaced by M2 AP (armor piercing) for combat use in 1943 but the standard ball round remained in production into the early 1970s. The sample lot I tested was, in fact, produced at Lake City in 1972. Primers were crimped, creating an extra step for reloaders.

Prvi Partizan

Produced in Serbia, with boxes clearly marked “For Rifle M1 Garand,” Prvi Partizan 150-gr. FMJ is designed to mimic M2 ball (PrviPartizan.com). The brass is boxer primed and the primers are not crimped. Expect accuracy to be in the 2-3 MOA range. The main attraction of this product is its relatively low cost of approximately $.70 per round. For a shooter that wants reliable ammunition with the correct Garand pressure curve for weekend plinking this is a good choice. On a whim, I took some of this ammo to a machinegun shoot and fired it in an original M1919A4 BMG. The BMG and the Garand fired the same ammo, so it should work. We plowed through 100 rounds loaded on a cloth belt without incident. Function was perfect. Some of my handloads tested for this article were loaded using PPU brass.

Sellier & Bellot

Sellier & Bellot 150-gr. FMJ is made in the Czech Republic and marketed as part of S&B’s Tactical Ammo line (SellierBellot.us). The 20-round boxes are clearly marked “FOR M1 GARAND.” This is good. No confusion as to its intended purpose. The brass is boxer primed and reloadable. The primers are not crimped, and the primer pockets were nice and tight when I reloaded some once fired cases. This ammo outshot some of the expensive “match” loads which is pretty impressive considering it cost $.65/round. I would absolutely recommend it as a best buy. The higher BC loads would beat it at distance, but at 100 or 200 yards S&B is a good choice.

SIG Sauer

I shot some pretty decent groups with SIG Sauer’s 175 gr. HPBT Match (especially with rifle #3). It probably wasn’t optimized for Garands although SIG said the pressure curve was suitable. The Savage bolt gun really liked it and I’m betting this load was developed in and for bolt guns. The only reason I would avoid it for Garands is cost: $.35/rnd more than the Hornady 168 ELD load which shot better.

Steinel

Steinel M2 ball, 150 FMJ is a relatively new product from Steinel Ammunition in Ohio. It is intended for M1s and is part of their Vintage Military Ammunition line which includes some interesting hard-to-find cartridges like 6.5 and 7.7 Arisaka and several flavors of .45/70 ammo with a couple intended for safe use in old Springfield Trapdoors. My samples were loaded in federal brass, but the CEO informed me that by the time you read this they may switch to Starline brass now that it is available. As far as commercial M2 ball goes, this Steinel load ranked behind S&B and Creedmoor in performance but it is still a solid choice. You can buy cheaper imported ammo, but it may not shoot as well as domestic products. I wish this new ammo company luck in the future. Steinel ammo is packed in very nice re-useable slip-top plastic boxes (reloaders take note).

Winchester

Winchester USA 147 gr. FMJ is a low-cost offering in Winchester’s “white box” line, the Garands didn’t like it. I doubt it was ever intended for use in M1s and I wouldn’t recommend it for that purpose when just about every other type of ball ammo shot better. Stick with the next product if you want to shoot Winchester.

Winchester .30 cal. Ball M2 X3006WW2 is a new offering in World War 2 packaging, even including brown military-type cardboard boxes, this is a decent ball load for M1s. Not the best or the worst, it is under a buck a round and designed for use in Garands. More accurate than some imports, domestic offerings Creedmoor and Steinel were slightly more accurate for a bit more money. Cost and accuracy considered, this would be a solid choice for the Garand owner.

Handload #1

I have a long history with the 168 BTHP match bullets. I have shot literally thousands of them through M1 Garands and M1As. They are solid performers. In recent years this bullet has been eclipsed for long range use by the new generation of low drag, high BC products offered by seemingly every bullet maker. I don’t care about that. I no longer shoot in competition and almost all my ammo is expended at 100 yards. I know this bullet will do the job out to 600 yards and I still have a pile of them, so they are my choice in M1s and M1As. In fact, Lake City loaded the 168 BTHP in their excellent M852 7.62mm match ammo which eventually became the military sniper load after someone in the legal arm of DoD determined the “hollow point” in the bullet was not designed for expansion and therefore didn’t violate Geneva Convention references to “Dum Dums.” Handload #1 was 46 grains of IMR 4064 under the aforementioned bullet in a PPU or S&B case sparked by a Winchester Large Rifle primer. Common components, excellent accuracy.

Handload #2

Same load with different powder. 46.5 grains of Hodgdon H4895. I used H4895 in match loads for years shooting M1As. It meters super smooth in my ancient Pacific powder measure. I don’t think load #2 shoots as well on average as load #1 so in the future I will stick with IMR 4064.

Everyone is looking for a bargain and the hard reality is that good .30-06 ammo will be much more painful to the wallet than bulk 5.56mm (especially these days). Generally speaking, I think any ammo that consistently shoots under 2 MOA in most guns is worthy of consideration. But, as far as surplus ammo goes, forget it. The price isn’t cheap, and the accuracy of G.I.-grade ammo will not impress. The best bang for the buck will be imported ball such as Privi Partizan and S&B. Personally, I prefer not to buy imported ammo during times when American ammo companies are laying people off (call me a hater), so I would lean toward the slightly more expensive Creedmoor 150 FMJ and Steinel M2 ball. If I was looking for the best deal in match ammo I would choose the Hornady 168 gr. ELD load (especially for longer ranges) and possibly the Federal 150 FMJ for testing freshly rebuilt guns with new barrels. I am quite fond of the Black Hills 155 ELD load but with a cost of $2 a round (during normal buying times) and limited availability I won’t shoot a lot of it.

I think most people will be impressed with how well a 60-year-old battle rifle will shoot if fed decent ammo. Bench rest rifle? No, but certainly adequate for most other purposes.

Dehydrating morel mushrooms is a common practice among individuals who harvest a large amount during mushroom season (lucky you!)

The dehydration process is the number one method that allows you to savor the taste of these even during the off-season, as they do not freeze well (though it is possible).

Some say the best location to hunt for morels is in the Midwest, but you can find them all over the US, Europe, and beyond. This area seems to have the best vegetation and temperature to grow these tasty morsels. Look for them sprouting from mid-April to mid-June.

They usually appear after a series of spring showers, prior to the heat of summer setting in. Morels often reappear in the same spot year after year, and many hunters keep their “spots” a well guarded secret.

These fungi (yes – they are fungi) seem to prefer hillsides with plenty of rotting logs, but they may appear in unexpected spots as well. You may not find them where you’d expect – this is one reason why this variety isn’t commercially farmed.

Three basic processes exist for dehydrating morels. The first involves the use of a dehydrator. Here’s what you need to do:

1. First, wash the specimens in cool water to remove any debris.

2. Pat dry with a paper towel. Trim the stems if necessary.

3. Slice them in half, from the tip through the base of the stem.

4. Place in a single layer on each level of the dehydrator. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for proper drying times, or check out our ultimate guide to food dehydration – it has a bunch of helpful drying times listed at the bottom.

For those individuals without a dehydrator, you can also use your oven to prepare the mushrooms.

1. Wash, dry, and cut the same way as previously outlined.

2. Cover the bottom of a cookie sheet with parchment paper. Lay out sliced mushrooms in a single layer. It is alright to have the sides touching, but they should not overlap.

3. Bake at 250°F for approximately 6 hours. During the baking process, crack open the oven door a slight amount. This allows the moisture to escape during the drying process.

Finally, the oldest known way to dry morels is to string them up and dry them in the sun.

1. Wash and prepare the individual pieces as before.

2. Cut a piece of cotton packaging string (kitchen string) that’s approximately six feet long. Thread a large-eyed needle, and insert through the center of a morel slice. Slide the mushroom along the cotton string until it’s within 12 inches of the opposite end.

3. Repeat the process with the remaining pieces, making sure they do not touch one another.

4. Hang the string in a sunny location. If you hang the string outside, be sure to bring it in at night to prevent dew from setting on it, which could introduce mold. Allow to dry in the sun for a minimum of two days.

The trick to drying morels is to make sure they are completely dry. Here’s how to test the mushrooms periodically during the drying process:

Break a small portion from the main body. It should snap when broken. If it is mushy or spongy, then moisture still exists within the cap.

Place the dehydrated specimens in a glass jar with a lid or in a resealable plastic bag. These will keep for up to six months if prepared correctly. You can further extend this by using vacuum sealing, placing them in the freezer after they’re dried (though this isn’t always recommended, as it can introduce moisture) or adding some oxygen absorbers to the sealed packaging.

Dehydrated morel mushrooms may be reconstituted by soaking them in enough cool, salted water to cover for 30 minutes, or by boiling them for 10 minutes at a low boil.

Be sure to reserve this water for cooking, as it is full of antioxidants. It makes a great addition to soups and sauces. Just let the sediment settle before adding the liquid on top to dishes.

And if you need a bit more info on the prep process, read our article on how to properly clean your mushrooms.

What’s your favorite way to dry the season’s bounty? Let us know in the comments!

Whitetail deer are one of the most common game animals for hunters in the USA. But how many points do you score for that big buck’s antlers? Learning how to add all the points isn’t too difficult, but it does take a little practice. Here’s a guide to counting deer points and scoring your prize buck.

You don’t have to be a math whiz to learn how to count points on deer antlers correctly. Any hunter, regardless of qualification, can count points on their buck by reading up on techniques online. The Boone and Crockett Club website includes a user-friendly, easy-to-use scoring chart that will help you score your whitetail deer quickly and accurately.

Simply follow along, punch in those numbers, and let the internal technology handle the rest. If you’re a new hunter and looking at how to count points on your buck, you’ve come to the right place. In this article, we’ll look into everything you need to know about scoring your buck and much more. Let’s get started!

What is the Boone and Crocket Scoring System?

Hunters have long kept track of the sizes and measurements of the racks on the deer they shoot, even before record books were established. This has made it easier for hunters to remember the size of the animals and compare them to other bucks shot by other hunters.

However, because there was no standardized method for measuring and tallying rack sizes, many hunters disagreed about which bucks were the largest. Sometimes, hunters were not using the same measurements. Even when they agreed on something, such as counting the normal points, nearly all the bucks compared had differences that produced important questions.

For example:

• Which are the main points on a buck that can be scored?
• What qualifies as an antler point?
• What about other antler points and abnormal points?

The Boone and Crockett Club is a non-profit organization created in 1887 by Theodore Roosevelt for passionate big-game hunters. An authorized committee of B&C members took on the challenge of widening the scope of the club’s current basic methodology to a more complete, equitable, and objective measurement system.

This system was meant to recognize remarkable North American big game animals.

Their actions developed an objective, honest, and fair grading system known as the Boone and Crockett scoring system. The Boone and Crockett record book classified scores into two groups:

Boone and Crockett Awards = 160-170

Boone and Crockett All-Time Awards = 170+

Their score sheet is available on their website; you can download it and enter the measurements. If you submit the Boone and Crockett Club with your information, they’ll use it to create valuable data. This information can then be used for conservation and game management.

Typical vs. Non-typical Deer Antlers

Hunters coined “typical” and “non-typical” antlers to describe the relative size of killed bucks. A typical deer has a symmetrical rack, which means that each antler’s orientation, the direction of tines, the number of points, and general arrangement are mirror images of one another.

In contrast, a non-typical deer looks unbalanced, and you can identify them at a glance. You’ll notice that the point count on each side does not match. This imbalanced appearance can be counted easily as having six points on one antler and four on the other.

However, if you’re scoring a BC score, the difference between typical and non-typical becomes prominent. When you score a typical buck, abnormal points will be deducted from your total score. But when you score a non-typical buck, you get extra points.

The lengths of the atypical scores are included in the final net score sheet, which is the main difference between scoring a typical and a non-typical rack. On a typical buck, these values are deducted from the score sheet. The majority of non-typical points include spits and kicker points. Drop tines, for example, are far less common to come across.

How to Count Points on a Buck’s Antlers

Now that you know some basic aspects of point counting, let’s look at how to score your buck accurately.

Step 1: Measure the Antler Beam Length

The first step is to measure the entire antler length from base to tip. As a deer antler is certainly not a perfectly straight piece that you can measure with a simple ruler or tape, this process can be challenging.

You may use a flexible cable or string to measure the exact length of the main beams. You’ll want to trace the beam length using the cable/string. After you reach the end, use an alligator clip or tape, or ask a friend to mark the end.

Now measure the length of the string or cable for the beam length. After measuring, take record and repeat the process on the other antler.

Step 2: Measure the Tine to Get Your “G” Measurements

The “G” values refer to the antlers’ tines. Each tine’s measurement is assigned a G and a number, beginning with the tine closest to the skull. G1 refers to the first tine (closest to the skull), G2 corresponds to the following tine, and so on.

To obtain the “G” values, put a piece of tape over the base of the tine, aligning it with the top edge of the main beam. After placing the tape, measure from the base of the tine to the top. Repeat this for each tine and record your measurements.

Step 3: Measure Abnormal Points

What counts as abnormal? Any tine or point that does not come from the main beam. This can include leaners, stickers, kickers, and drop tines. Abnormal points are measured independently from the main tines and noted in their own category on the scoring sheet.

To be counted as a point, a tine must be at least 1 inch long, and its width should be less than its length (for example, a 2-inch tine with a 2 1/2-inch base would not count).

Step 4: Measure the Inside Spread

Calculate the inside spread of the two antlers, which is the distance between the insides of the antlers’ outer sections. This measurement is taken perpendicular to the skull’s center line. The Boone & Crockett scoring chart refers to this measurement as a “spread credit” if it is shorter than the longest main beam.

If your spread credit is longer than the main beam, then that longer main beam length will decide your overall score. For instance, if the inside spread is 22 inches and the longest of the two main beams is 20 inches, then 20 inches is used as the inside spread credit.

Step 5: Take Circumference Measurements or the “H”

You’ll probably require more than just a regular carpenter’s tape measure to finish the “H” measurements. Here you’ll need a flexible tape measure used by tailors since you’ll have to wrap it around the antlers to obtain the circumference. Alternatively, you can roll a wire around the antler, measure the wire, and then mark the circumference.

Any antler, regardless of the number of tines, will have eight total H measures, four on each side. The H1 measurement will be the least circumference between the first point and the burr. The smallest circumference between the first and second points will be the H2 measurement. Continue taking measurements until you have four measurements for both antlers.

The smallest point between the following G points is used for all other circumference measurements. If G4 is absent, H4 is taken halfway between the center of G3’s base and the main beam’s tip.

For example, if you get a 6 point without G3 or G4, find the halfway point between the G2 and the main beam’s tip, measure its circumference, and use this value as your H3 and H4 measurements.

Step 6: Add the Measurements

For this step, you’ll need your most reliable calculator. All you have to do is add your measurements together. Your buck’s green gross score is the sum of all your measures. But the net score is what counts if you want to put your score in the record books. To find it, subtract any side-to-side differences and the abnormal points.

For instance, if the left G3 number is 4.5 inches and the right G3 number is 5, you should subtract a half inch from the measures. Now that you have the net score, you must wait for the rack to dry for 60 days before recalculating the score to make it official. To determine the final score, you’ll follow the same procedure.

How To Count Points on a Buck: Quick Summary

Let’s quickly summarize the main steps to count the point on a buck:

1. Measure the length of the two major beams.
2. Measure the lengths of each point.
3. Add the four circumference measurements together.
4. Count the spread credit.
5. Subtract the total length of all atypical tines on a typical rack.
6. Subtract the difference between each main beam measurement for the right and left.
7. Subtract the differences in the left and right major points’ measurements.
8. Subtract the difference between each circumference reading.

Bottom Line

As most hunters take down one buck each season, scoring is a process best left to the professionals. A taxidermist, guide, or even a professional wild game processor can assist you in counting your points.

You’ll need a notepad, flexible tape, basic math skills or a calculator to score your prize. If you believe your buck is great enough to break a record and is qualified for a place in the records, send your bid formally by reaching the Boone and Crockett Club. A professional from the club will arrive and record your new score for everyone to see in their book.

FAQ

What counts as a point on a buck?

In hunting, a point on a buck refers to the individual tines of the antlers. A tine has to be at least one inch long and may be quickly counted by assuming that an overwhelming majority of mature whitetail bucks grow a brow tine on each antler and that the main beam tip is counted as one point. Points are typically documented on Column G, which is why hunters often refer to them as G-points. Points include the brow tine, which sticks straight up near the base of the antlers.

How rare is an 8-point buck?

8-point bucks are the most common, making up 50 percent of antlered deer in all mature buck age classes. Is an 8-point that may be average to many hunters your perfect buck? It all depends on the hunter’s preferences and criteria such as hunting pressure, available food, and the age of the buck. Ultimately, the decision of what constitutes a “perfect buck” is subjective and varies from hunter to hunter.

Do you count brow tines in the score?

Brow tines are small antlers that point forward over the deer’s eyes. These are counted for whitetail deer but not for mule deer.

How can you count a buck’s score in the field?

One quick estimation can be made by counting the number of points through your scope or binoculars. A buck that has two standing normal points per side is probably an 8-point buck. If you spot one with three standing points, it is probably a 10-point buck.

Counting deer antler points in the field is a good way to estimate the score, but you’ll need to bag the deer and let its antlers dry for 60 days before you can get an official score.

Related Articles:

When do deer drop their antlers?

Watch Deer Hunting Videos to Improve Your Game

Every Wonder if Deer Mate for Life?

Get Rid of Raccoons at Feeding Stations

Introduction: Crappie Fishing and the Length of Rods

I was recently down at the Cabelas near the house and happened to browse through the fishing rods as one does when in a Cabelas or a BassPro.

While being familiar with crappie fishing and having my favorite rods for various purposes in various lengths, I couldn’t help but notice the sheer numbers of rods and lengths available. I can only imagine how overwhelming it can be to try and select a fishing rod, especially if you are a beginning fisherman.

With that in mind we are going to discuss what the best crappie rod length is in a given situation and why you might want to select a different length. But let’s start with a quick answer, for what is the best crappie rod length, before we dive into the details.

The ideal length of a crappie rod is dependent on the style of fishing you intend to do. For shooting the docks and targeted casting a 6 foot rod is ideal. For crappie spider rigging and trolling then a 14 to 16 foot rod is the perfect choice. When ice fishing for crappie, select a rod that’s around 2 to 3 feet in length.

Now that the best lengths are out of the way, let’s discuss why these lengths are the best.

Length of Crappie Rods – Best Crappie Rod Length for Each Fishing Style

When looking for a crappie rod you can find lengths starting as small as 2 feet and ranging all the way up to 20 feet long.

This huge variance in rod lengths is due to the nuances of fishing and the different baits, presentations and conditions present during each style of fishing.

Length for Crappie General and Targeted Casting

For all around fishing in the most flexible conditions I feel that a rod between the lengths of 5 and 7 feet is ideal. Hence why I recommend a length of about 6 ft for targeted casting. Targeted casting includes working a bait along the shore line, targeting bushes and rocky outcroppings and of course shooting the docks.

A rod that is 6 feet long is small enough that you can control your cast, but still large enough to use it to control and lead the fish. Often it is necessary to guide the fish away from certain obstacles as you real it in, you will find they attempt to snag the line on anything they can once hooked.

Ideal Length of a Crappie Rod for Ice Fishing

When talking about ice fishing for crappie I mean on lakes that have a good solid ice layer over them. In these instances you are often going to be cutting a hole in the ice and fishing through that.

Since you are fishing straight down in these cases, there is relatively little need to have a long rod to properly position the bait and retrieve your fish.

For these reasons I recommend that you select a rod that is around 2 to 3 feet in length. Keep in mind that with this length of rod you need a limber rod with light action. (Quality rods should list their action rating.)

This lighter action will help to compensate for the pull when you set the hook.

Selecting a Rod Length for Spider Rigging and Trolling

Spider Rigging and Trolling style crappie fishing is where the big rods come out. Both of these techniques use the extremely long rods crappie fishing is known for.

While it is possible to spider rig with poles as short as 8 feet in length, this frequently results in tangled lines.

With many tournaments allowing as many as 8 rods, spider rigging and trolling both take advantage of this.

Rods are mounted along the front of a boat and fanned out in several directions from there, creating the appearance of spider legs reaching over the water.

Unless there is a lot of overhanging cover such as trees the longer a rod here the less chance that you will tangle your lines. Longer rods also allow you to cover more water if fishing above channels or drop offs under the surface.

Most professional crappie fishermen prefer a rod in the vicinity of 14 to 16 feet with it seeming that 16 feet rods are the most commonly seen in tournaments.

If you know what depths you intend to fish then you can set up your rods in the style of a cane pole. In these cases the rod has no reel, simply a line that is cut close to the same length as the pole. This has the advantage of allowing you to simply pick up the rod and the fish swings to you.

If you want to adjust the depths you’re fishing at though, make sure to select a crappie rod that has eyelets and a reel.

Weight Considerations For Length

While it may not be a factor you have considered, keep in mind that the longer the pole, the more it will weigh. For instance a 16 foot Lews Wally Marshall only weighs 9.6 ounces without a reel this feels like far more when it’s all held out in front of you.

I suggest that you hold the pole for a few minutes in the store to see how comfortable it is to do so. If after a relatively short period it causes pain in your wrists then you might want to go with a shorter rod.

1,2,3 Piece Rod or Collapsable How is Length Affected?

In years past sometimes your only option for longer rods was a two or 3 piece rod. Now it is not that uncommon to find 1 piece rods up to 8 feet in length.

When selecting a rod length for crappie fishing, make sure to consider not only the overall length of the rod when assembled, but also its transport length.

This becomes even more critical if you have extended travel times to reach the fishing hole. Two and three piece rods allow you to separate the pieces and reduce their overall length in that manner.

The downside to doing so with these rods is that frequently they are still rigged for fishing and if you are not careful they can easily get tangled.

Another option is telescoping rods. These rods are frequently made from fiberglass or other light weight material and feature sections that slide into each other. These come in both cane pole styles with no eyelets as well as styles designed for reels in which eyelets are positioned at each section.

One drawback is telescoping rods can rarely be found in lengths longer than 8 to 10 feet. This means you will need a 3 or even a four piece rod if looking for rods of that length.

There are mixed opinions on collapsing fishing rods, but I do feel they definitely have a place in my fishing gear.

My favorite telescoping rod is a 6’6” KastKing Blackhawk while it’s not the super long rod used for trolling, it makes an excellent all around and general casting rod to keep in the truck.

Conclusion:

To sum it up, while there is no “best” there are definitely use cases for a specific length of crappie fishing rod.

If you take nothing else from this post though, suffice it to say that for most teenage and adult anglers a 6 foot crappie rod featuring light or ultralight action is the way to go.

This length will get them started in the sport and present them with the largest selection of fishing styles. This length of crappie rod can be used for casting, spinning, fishing with a jig and shooting the docks, you can even fish a minnow under a bobber with no problems.

If you want to know more about selecting a rod length check out this article on rod lengths by age group. In the meantime, hit the water, catch a slab or two and enjoy the outdoors.

When laser rangefinders hit the market, they did more than just replace the shoddy rangefinders of the past.

With advanced technology and innovative features put into the mix, laser rangefinders came with greater durability, longer range, and better performance.

There’s no doubt the better features such as built-in pressure sensors, wind calculators, and ballistic drop corrections are what make laser rangefinders a must-have in the field.

But the one feature that’s highly underestimated and no hunter should go without ever again, is Rangefinder Angle Compensation.

When you’re in your tree blind, out in the canyon, or in mountainous terrain, you’ll need a laser rangefinder to make sure you get the right distances to your target. Trying to eyeball a distance can be risky. You could end up with a misplaced shot.

Now, trying to eyeball a distance while on an incline or a decline can end up being a disaster of a shot. But if you have an angle compensating rangefinder that can do the math and the measuring for you, you’ve just improved your chances of taking home your prey. Make way now for Angle Compensation.

Angle Compensating Rangefinder: To Have or Not to Have?

Every long distance shooter, whether it’s the bow or rifle you prefer, knows that gravity is like the third wheel that you just can’t get rid of. So you make room for it, and every shot you make in the field, you compensate for its effects. There’s two distances that need defining if you want to get an accurate shot.

• Line of Sight: the actual measured distance between you and the target
• True Horizontal Distance: the distance which gravity will act over; the distance you’ll need to aim for

Of course, if you’ve got the perfectly flat terrain with the broad side of that elk facing you from about 40 yards, then the line of sight distance is going to be the same as the true horizontal distance.

Gravity won’t have much of an effect to affect either the bow or the bullet. Some people decide to forgo the angle compensation feature, saying it just makes a rangefinder more expensive than it needs to be since you can get by without it. “It’s only a few yard difference” says the skeptic.

However, no matter how ideal the perfectly flat terrain can be or how good your distance estimating skills are, hunting can take you to high-angle areas that just might show you how much of a difference those five yards can make.

Errors between 20 to 25 percent can make all the difference. For the bow hunter, that could be a complete miss. For the rifle shooter, a 20 percent error at 200 yards is a 40 yard difference. That could also be a complete miss or worse, a wounded animal.

“But why would shooting at a target on an incline or decline make a difference?”

Have you ever played one of those carnival fair games where you have to toss a ball into a bucket from about 10 feet away? In your mind’s eye, you know you have to toss a little higher to create an arc for the ball to land into the bucket.

Easy right? Well, take that bucket and put it on the top of the Ferris wheel, still only 10 yards away. Thinking your imagined trajectory path may need some tweaking now?

The rangefinder angle compensation feature can take into consideration the angle shot and the actual distance to give you a corrected value as accurately as it can, even to -/+.5 of a yard. The only thing left for you to do is to adjust your sights to match what the rangefinder calculated.

Since most optics are zeroed in on flat ground, you might want to consider a rangefinder that has further ballistic calculating capabilities where you know how many “clicks” you need to make to adjust for angle degrees.

Let’s take a look at a scenario…

You’re up in a tree blind and you spot an elk stroll into your ranging spread. Your line of sight distance to the elk is 70 yards, but the elk is only 23 yards away from the base of your tree stand.

What’s the actual distance you should aim for? On top of that, for the bow hunter, what’s the angle you should launch your arrow for? How many degrees do you adjust your scope for? For the rifle hunter, how far will your bullet get before a complete drop takes place due to the effects of air resistance and gravity?

Do these kinds of distances matter on trajectory anyway? Anyone have an electronic level or a protractor on hand? Anyone know what the acceleration rate of gravity is? Wait a minute, you didn’t sign up to be in math class right?

As the above scenario illustrates, calculating the correct distance to make an accurate shot from either an incline or decline to your target can be quite the math challenge. To make it simpler, a rangefinder with angle compensation can do all the hard work for you.

Your rangefinder should tell you the line of sight distance is 70 yards to the elk, but your true horizontal distance is 23 yards.

For the Bow Hunter…

If you’re an archer, these distances are going to be very important to distinguish between which ones are important for your shot. The line of sight distance tells you that although the elk is further away to your eye, you should use the horizontal distance and aim as if it’s 23 yards away because gravity only acts over a horizontal arrow path.

If you aim for anywhere near 70 yards, you’re going to miss and lose that arrow. That’s because you overcompensated the trajectory path by 47 yards which is a 70 percent error rate. That’s a big difference when 15 percent is considered accurate.

For the rifle shooter…

For the firearm user, these distances won’t make a difference, nor would it be a problem. But if the distances were more extreme, and the angles were steeper, you’d need better math skills or you’d need to get yourself a rangefinder with angle compensation. If you had a line of sight distance of 400 yards to your target at a 40 degree incline, you’re going to want to aim low and use the horizontal distance of 335 yards.

Rangefinders with ballistic calculators can tell you what your bullet drop holdover will be according to your rifle’s zero and the type of ammunition being used. Gravity acts over a horizontal path, so the bullet is only going to drop the more parallel your rifle is to the ground.

It’s important to remember that there is going to be less of a bullet drop whether you’re aiming up or down, and to always aim low.

Where to Use Angle Compensation

Both rifle shooters and bow hunters alike can benefit from using rangefinders with angle compensation. Situations that they could prove helpful for include:

• Rifle hunters with extreme distances
• Archers in a tree blind
• Mountain goat hunting in canyons
• Ranging in mountainous areas
• Ranging in unknown territory

With this in mind, check out 6 of our most recommended angle compensating laser rangefinders in the table below.

6 Best Angle Compensating Rangefinders

Laser rangefinders with angle compensation have made it possible to be done with the days of carrying around bullet drop cards with you, and having to tediously do the math before every shot.

Even if you don’t know that you’d need angle compensation for any of your hunts, it’s better to be prepared than to be without.

Images Source: https://www.bushnell.com/

Further Reading

• HANDS ON: Sig Sauer Kilo1600BDX Review (6x22mm Rangefinder)
• How Do Laser Rangefinders Work? (Everything You Need To Know)
• Leupold RX-Fulldraw 4 Rangefinder Review
• Vortex Fury HD 5000 AB Rangefinding Binoculars Review
• Sig Sauer Kilo 3000 BDX 10×42 Rangefinder Binoculars Review

Few things are more frustrating than sitting in a cold duck blind all day and having no ducks show up. Just because you have water, it doesn’t mean you will also have ducks. You know you can bring deer and bear into a location of your choosing by creating food plots or bait sites for them, but have you ever considered doing the same for waterfowl? Actually, it’s something every cold and weary duck hunter has contemplated. It may not be as simple as throwing birdseed on the water, but attracting ducks may not be as difficult as it seems.

Wild ducks are looking for more than just a water source when they stage. There are several factors at play on and under the surface of those ponds. Flight is the most energetically expensive method of locomotion, and ducks move very long distances during migration. In light of this, it makes sense that ducks are pretty focused on food and are always scrounging for a snack. By learning about the best foods for ducks, you can learn to predict sites where specific ducks may congregate, or enhance your property to bring the ducks to you.

Duck Diet Basics

It may surprise you to learn that ducks are omnivorous, meaning they eat both plants and animals. Depending on the duck, they consume an impressive variety of foods: earthworms, snails, slugs, mollusks, small fish, fish eggs, small crustaceans, grass, herbaceous plants, leaves, aquatic plants (green parts and the roots), algae, amphibians (tadpoles, frogs, salamanders, etc.), insects, seeds, grains, berries and nuts. The nutritional value of each of these keeps both wild ducks and their ducklings healthy. Without question, a varied diet helps ensure ducks get the nutrition they need to support healthy growth and development and sustain them through long migrations.

Another critical component to a wild duck’s diet is grit (sand, small pebbles, shells), which helps break down food in their crop and may provide essential minerals like calcium. Even ducklings need grit in their diet to break down food. The more nutritional value your food plots provide, the better.

A number of factors help narrow down the smorgasbord if you’re looking to track down or attract a specific species:

• Species: Some ducks have evolved to eat more specialized diets. Bill shape is a good indicator of diet. For example, narrow, serrated bills are efficient at grabbing fish while broad, rounded bills are great for digging up aquatic insects and algae.
• Season: Opportunistic eaters will take advantage of whatever food source is most plentiful during a particular time of year.
• Habitat, range and feeding style: It may seem like an obvious point to say that ducks that hang out preferentially in fields and meadows will eat more grains than fish, but keep in mind that a duck’s habitat may change along its migratory route. A duck that is gorging on grain today may be munching minnows next week, so you need to know what that particular species will be looking for in your neck of the woods. Pay attention to the feeding style of your target. Despite both being aquatically inclined, dabbling ducks will eat different things than deep-diving ducks simply because of how they search for food.

Aquatic Appetites

Of all the natural duck foodstuffs, aquatic plants may be the best place to focus your enhancement efforts. Feeding ducks will eat various kinds of aquatic vegetation – submerged and emergent, native and invasive – representing more than 25 different families. Examples include wild rice, wild celery, coontail, milfoil (including invasive Eurasian milfoil), pondweed, southern naiad and widgeon grass. According to Dr. Thomas E. Moorman, “Gadwalls and American wigeons relish the leafy portions of aquatic vegetation. Green-winged teal, northern pintails and mallards prefer the seeds produced by wetland plants. Canvasbacks, redheads and scaup feed heavily on roots and tubers, while ring-necked ducks consume more leafy plant material and seeds.”

Maximizing the diversity of aquatic plant species and growth forms in your duck pond is a good strategy for attracting a variety of waterfowl. If you are struggling to find specific information for your area about what plant species will attract which ducks, take a trip to a spot you know hosts migrating ducks and bring a plant identification guide. You can either take your species list to your local greenhouse and pond supply store or carefully and respectfully harvest wild specimens for transplanting (if it’s legal to do so).

Millet Time

Millet is an excellent attractant for ducks. Golden and Japanese varieties have been developed to grow quickly and prolifically in a variety of conditions – far more cheaply than corn – making them very popular with folks trying to establish duck food plots. With two or even three crops in a season, millet will self-seed and provide forage for ducks for an extended period.

Millet is best planted about 75 days before the first frost date in your area. Millet seed can be sown in prepared soil adjacent to a pond using a variety of methods (broadcast, drilling, fly-on) and will do well with minimal care as long as the young plants aren’t flooded too early in their development. Make sure you’re not planting before a big rain hits or you may be planting again later.

Good Grains

For grain supply, consider planting wild rice (zizania aquatica). This native North American aquatic grain is an annual, but should self-seed once established. Wild rice is very good at improving water quality and clarity so consider planting it if your pond needs a bit of a boost.

Wild rice is best planted in the fall as its germination is dependent on overwintering in the sediment layer of a pond or stream. Plant your seeds immediately after purchase. Seeds that dry out will not germinate. If all goes well, you will start to see young plants growing underwater in May. Wild rice reaches maturity in September and will be two to eight feet above the water line.

Planting Tips for Standing Water

The Conservation Commission of the State of Missouri offers the following tips for planting aquatic vegetation:

• Space approximately three to four feet apart in rows to allow for growth. The more sunlight, the better.
• Place submerged and floating-leaved plants along the 3- to 4-foot depth contour of the pond.
• Place emergent plants near the shore from the waterline out to depths of six to 12 inches.
• Do not place floating plants next to submerged plants so adequate light can reach young submerged plants.

Native Plants for Your Duck Pond

The best native plant species for your duck pond will depend largely on your geographic area. Some good picks to start your site-specific research with include:

• Wild rice
• Pondweeds
• Milfoils
• Smartweed
• Wild Celery
• Duckweed
• Coontail

No matter where you are, some common factors will influence how well your plants grow: water quality and clarity, salinity, water and sediment depth, wave and current energy. Keep these factors in mind when researching what species to try out in your pond.

Enhancing Native Food Sources

If you’re looking to enhance a natural area that is already providing native food sources for wild ducks, diversity is key. It’s time to be inclusive of all types of waterfowl. When a variety of waterfowl is using your waterways, you have a variety of waterfowl in the freezer. In some cases, it can extend your season.

If you have a field, add a pond. If you have a pond, clear an area for field-based foods. Within the pond itself, try to enhance or create both marshy and open water environments.

It pays to have a way to draw the water level down. During the spring and summer months, you can lower water levels to promote the growth of plants and food sources. You can also keep water levels low for ducks like pintails, mallards, teal and wigeon. It doesn’t take much to accomplish this, and it can be as easy as a pipe with a valve.

Plant an array of species to help ensure you always have something beneficial growing. Plant pondweeds and wild celery in the deepest areas of your pond, smartweed and wild rice in the mid-depths and millet and corn in the shallows. A healthy diversity of plant species should attract and support a healthy faunal diversity without further assistance from you.

Diversity in habitats and species will ensure you have the best foods for ducks available for your feathered friends no matter what Mother Nature throws at you.

Acorns

Of course, an article on duck diet would not be complete without mentioning the outliers. Wood ducks love acorns. Yes, acorns – preferably white oak species (oaks with rounded, lobed leaves) over red oak species (pointed-lobed leaves) for palatability and digestibility reasons. So, if wood ducks are something you’d like to see more of on your property, oak trees are excellent additions to throw into the mix.

In areas where you have a good source of acorns, you generally have a beaver problem as well. You may need to protect young trees with wire net beaver exclosures. When it comes to wood ducks, acorns and pecans are often the only food source you have. Protecting oak and pecan trees from beavers is all the more important.

Great Expectations

Deer and bear hunters create food plots they know will attract a big buck or giant boar. With the information we discussed and a little elbow grease, you can consistently attract waterfowl to your waters. In the long run, creating food sources for waterfowl is more than just feeding ducks. It’s not only creating a habitat for wild ducks but a critical habitat for other wildlife as well. Besides, you are probably tired of sitting in a freezing cold duck blind hoping for the best. It’s time to quit hoping and time to start shooting.

Most rifle barrels in the past several years have come threaded from the factory so the shooter can add a muzzle device such as a muzzle brake or a compensator. This has recently extended to bolt-action and lever-action rifles more commonly found in the hunting as opposed to the tactical arena. Some come equipped with thread protectors and many come with a muzzle device.

Although the included muzzle device is typically a flash suppressor, some jurisdictions cling to antiquated and ill-informed laws that regard these devices as an “evil feature,” whereas a muzzle brake or compensator is perfectly legal.

We’ll go over the nitty-gritty of muzzle brakes and compensators, but if you’re looking for a quick reference, take a look at this chart for the two major differences between the two:

MUZZLE BRAKECOMPENSATOR Deflects blast to the sidesDeflects blast down Primarily used to reduce felt recoilPrimarily used to reduce muzzle flip

WHAT IS A MUZZLE BRAKE?

A muzzle brake is a device which threads onto the end of a firearm’s barrel. Although construction varies, the primary identifying characteristic is a series of cuts that direct the burning gasses and muzzle blast of a fired round away from the shooter and most often toward the side or 180 degrees from the muzzle itself.

WHAT DOES A MUZZLE BRAKE DO?

As most of the felt recoil from a firearm originates at the muzzle, this effort is primarily done to reduce recoil. Secondary benefits of muzzle brakes are byproducts of this as the reduction in felt recoil can aid the shooter with regard to accuracy and allow for faster follow up shots.

Some muzzle brakes, when used in conjunction with a suppressor, can act as a sacrificial blast baffle. This is not the same as a sound baffle, which decreases the sound signature of the firearm, but rather that the brake takes the brunt of the muzzle blast and fired gasses as opposed to the baffles in the suppressor itself. This tends to prolong the life of the suppressor.

The drawback to most muzzle brakes is that they can change the direction of the sound of the fired round. In some cases, the shooter may find the report of the weapon to be louder but most of the time it is the other shooters in close proximity that will find the shots fired to be louder. This is typically a result of the other parties feeling the shockwave generated as opposed to the sound itself.

Originally, muzzle brakes were meant for use on calibers that generated a lot of felt recoil and they were commonly found on belted magnum rifle cartridges intended for big game or dangerous game hunting or bolt-action pistols chambered in 308 Winchester and 30-06 Springfield for use in handgun hunting. However, this is not always the case and they have been used successfully on rifles where a muzzle brake would have been uncommon even a decade ago.

Competitive long range shooters tend to favor muzzle brakes, as the redirected gas and flash allow them to maintain a better sight picture. Three gun shooters like muzzle brakes as they can allow for faster follow-up shots and a reduced recoil impulse.

WHAT IS A COMPENSATOR?

A compensator is a type of muzzle device that works in a different way than a muzzle brake. A compensator’s primary role is to reduce “muzzle flip” or “muzzle climb.” While some manufacturers claim that they aid in recoil reduction, this is not entirely true, as most compensators operate on a different principle.

WHAT DOES A COMPENSATOR DO?

Most compensators divert gasses and muzzle blast in a downward fashion to keep the firearm from rising during the firing sequence.

One of the earliest compensator designs was the Cutts Compensator found on the Thompson submachine gun. The 45 ACP round, while fired on full auto, would cause the muzzle to rise due to recoil and the Cutts Compensator helped keep the guns on target.

The same principle carried over to competitive pistol shooting in the late 1970s. The ports on a compensator are carefully angled and machined to force the pistol downward. This allowed competitive pistol shooters to fire rapidly and accurately, scoring multiple hits on the same target.

Eventually, the compensator made its way back to rifles, primarily semi automatic modern sporting rifles (MSR), as the virtue of decreased muzzle rise was seen as an asset on the competitive shooting circuit.

LINEAR COMPENSATORS

One type of compensator that caught the attention of shooters was the linear compensator, which directed the noise and expanding gasses forward and away from the shooter. While it did not suppress the sound in any way like a silencer, this redirection of sound reduced concussion and the perceived decibel level, making for a more pleasant shooting experience.

A MUZZLE BRAKE VS. A COMPENSATOR FOR USE WITH A SUPPRESSOR

When it comes to using a suppressor for your firearm, the muzzle brake and the compensator are typically trumped. A silencer acts like the ultimate muzzle brake or compensator because it contains the burning gasses and muzzle blast within the body of the can. Most suppressors reduce felt recoil, muzzle climb, and most importantly noise and concussion.

The use of a muzzle brake or a compensator plays more of a role when the suppressor is not mounted and the weapon is being fired unsuppressed. If the shooter is more concerned about recoil control, the muzzle brake may be the way to go. If recoil is not a factor but controlling muzzle rise or flip is an issue, then something like a linear compensator could be the answer.

However, there is another factor to consider when shooting a suppressor and using a muzzle device where a muzzle brake may be the clear winner.

POINT OF AIM CONSIDERATIONS

Every time a suppressor is removed and reattached, the point of aim can change. In a similar manner, most muzzle brakes and compensators will not always line up or index correctly when they are moved and reattached. The ports need to be timed in position with the barrel and the shooter may need to use shims in order to properly obtain alignment, as well as torque the device to the barrel properly.

The best of both worlds is using a muzzle device as the mounting system. As we mentioned earlier, a muzzle brake mount is usually ideal for this role.

Most muzzle brakes are built with an expansion chamber that aids in their function of reducing felt recoil. In a number of instances, a properly made muzzle brake with this feature will absorb the brunt of the burning gasses behind the projectile as the bullet leaves the crown of the barrel.

Rather than hit the baffle head-on, much of this is absorbed by the muzzle brake now acting as the mount for the silencer. This prolongs the life of the suppressor and most shooters would rather replace a muzzle brake out of pocket than have to deal with the hassles of sending a suppressor back to the manufacturer for service and repair.

Another benefit with the muzzle brake mounting system is that the mount should allow the silencer to index correctly to the barrel repeatedly. This helps maintain the rifle’s point of impact so that the shooter does not have to re-zero the rifle every time the suppressor is attached. Some shooters do not need to worry about this, as they leave their silencer mounted all the time, but it can be an issue if you need to remove the silencer for transport or storage or if you move the suppressor from one host to another.

Which leads to the next benefit. A proper suppressor mounting system in the form of a quick detach or QD muzzle brake mount as opposed to a direct thread allows the shooter to have more versatility with a suppressor or silencer.

When direct thread silencers were the only option, shooters were limited in moving their suppressor from one host to another. The barrel threads had to be the same pattern as the female threads of the suppressor and that could prevent mounting a .30 caliber can with a thread pitch of 5/8 x 24” onto a .22 caliber barrel with a thread pattern of ½ x 28”. The muzzle brake mounting system changed this because now the shooter just needed to obtain an additional mount as opposed to going without a suppressor for a different host or having the rifle barrel threaded or recut to match the thread pattern of the silencer.

Our BANISH 30 GOLD is a quick detach 30 cal suppressor that comes with two muzzle brakes (1/2×28 and 5/8×24).

Thus, the shooter could mount the BANISH 30 GOLD on a rifle chambered in 300 Winchester Magnum, fire it and in less than a minute run the same BANISH 30 GOLD on a 10.5” AR-15 or any other rifle equipped with a BANISH 30 GOLD muzzle brake.

These reasons are what makes the muzzle brake a better choice, in our opinion, for shooting suppressed.

SHOOT SUPPRESSED TODAY!

If you’re ready to experience the benefits of shooting suppressed, then there’s no better time to start the buying process than right now!

At Silencer Central, we are passionate about compliance, knowledge, and community education in firearm sound suppression. With more than 15 years’ experience in the industry, we are the nation’s largest silencer dealer. We’re also the only one licensed in all 42 suppressor-legal states that can sell, process, and ship your new suppressor directly to your front door.

Like all things in life, there’s always something more to learn. Hopefully, the information in this article helped answer a lot of your questions about muzzle brakes, compensators, and silencers. Of course, it’s also possible that it brought some new questions to mind that you hadn’t thought of before. Or, we might have overlooked your question altogether. Whatever the case, we’re here to answer any and all of your questions and to help you buy your first suppressor.

SHOP SILENCERS

Soy Ricardo, un blogger latino en Estados Unidos y con este post quiero informarte sobre los requisitos para obtener la licencia de caza en California. Me gustaría contarte cuáles son los parámetros necesarios para adquirir esta autorización en la la costa oeste de Estados Unidos. Ven y conóceme más en mi blog «EstadosUnidosAhora» y descubre todo lo que debes saber de este tema. ¡Espero que disfrutes!

Paso a Paso sobre requisitos para licencia de caza en california

1. Completar un curso de educación de caza certificado por el Departamento de Pesca y Vida Silvestres de California.
2. Solicitar una licencia de caza con su identificación.
3. Probar que tiene la edad legal para obtener una licencia de caza.
4. Pagar la tarifa anual para la licencia de caza.
5. Comprender los reglamentos y estatutos de caza propios de California.
6. Estudiar sobre la vida silvestre y los hábitos de caza.
7. Presentar un informe médico que indique si se encuentra apto físicamente para la caza.
8. Revocar cualquier otra licencia relacionada con la caza de otros estados.
9. Obtener un examen para el uso seguro de un arma de fuego.
10. Portar siempre la licencia de caza mientras se encuentre cazando.

Requisitos Necesarios Sobre requisitos para licencia de caza en california

• Ser mayor de 21 años.
• Presentar una prueba de ciudadanía.
• Contar con el pago de los impuestos pertinentes.
• Contar con el certificado de Hunter Education, si se requiere.
• Presentar el comprobante de inscripción en el Área Registrada de Caza.
• Proporcionar una fotografía reciente para la tarjeta de caza.
• Demostrar que tiene la capacidad para usar un arma de fuego.
• Tener seguro de Responsabilidad Civil por daños al medio ambiente.

leyes de caceria, preguntas y respuestas parte 2

¿Quién puede portar un arma de fuego en México?

¿Qué se necesita para cazar en Estados Unidos?

Para cazar en Estados Unidos se requiere contar con un permiso de caza emitido por el Departamento de Pesca y Vida Silvestre de cada estado, además de tener las herramientas necesarias para el correcto desarrollo de la actividad. El cazador debe contar con un seguro que le cubra cualquier daño ocasionado a terceros durante la práctica de la caza.

Además del permiso y seguro, es requisito obligatorio contar con cierta documentación como licencia de conducir, pasaporte, carné universitario o tarjeta de identificación con foto. La edad mínima para cazar está entre los 14 y 16 años, dependiendo del estado en que se realice la actividad.

Otro aspecto relevante es el armamento adecuado para la caza, que en la mayoría de los casos es un arma de fuego y/o un arco y flechas. Se debe prestar atención al reglamento estatal para saber qué tipo de armas están permitidas para cada caza. Finalmente, se deben llevar todos los elementos de vestimenta necesarios para preservar la salud y la seguridad.

¿Qué documentos se necesitan para cazar?

Para cazar en Estados Unidos, se necesita tener una licencia de caza. La cantidad de documentos necesarios para obtener la licencia varía dependiendo del estado. En algunos casos, los cazadores deben presentar pruebas de un curso certificado de caza y supervivencia o de un examen de seguridad de armas de fuego. Además, en algunos estados se exige que los cazadores presenten una copia de una identificación oficial como pasaporte o licencia de conducir. Por último, la mayoría de los estados requieren que los cazadores paguen una tarifa para obtener una licencia para cazar. La tarifa varía dependiendo del lugar y del tipo de caza, pero en general es relativamente baja. Una vez que los cazadores han cumplido con todos los requisitos y pagado la tarifa, reciben un permiso de caza válido por un periodo determinado. Es importante destacar que en muchos estados los cazadores pueden pedir por teléfono o a través de Internet la licencia, pero en otros estados los cazadores deben aplicar en persona.

¿Qué hay que hacer para obtener la licencia de caza?

Para sacarse la licencia de caza en Estados Unidos es necesario cumplir una serie de requisitos. En primer lugar, antes de comprar una licencia de caza es importante averiguar las regulaciones de la caza en el estado en el que se desea cazar; cada lugar tiene diferentes reglas para cazar y las variaciones de un estado a otro.

Luego, uno debe obtener su número de identificación de cazador, el cual generalmente se consigue gratuitamente en una agencia de vida silvestre del estado correspondiente. Además, se debe tomar un curso en seguridad con armas de fuego antes de obtener la licencia, el cual puede ser tomado a través de cursos en línea o por un instructor certificado. Finalmente, se necesita comprar la licencia de caza correspondiente para el estado o región en la que se desea cazar, la cual se puede adquirir en los establecimientos designados o en línea.

Es importante tener en cuenta que muchos estados requieren una licencia de caza para las personas mayores de 16 años, aunque algunos permiten que los niños de 12 a 15 años salgan de cacería si se les asigna un supervisor autorizado. Dependiendo del estado, también hay restricciones en cuanto a qué animales son legalmente cazables o dónde se puede cazar. Por lo tanto, es importante revisar las regulaciones de caza antes de salir a cazar.

¿Qué se necesita para obtener la licencia de conducir en California?

Para obtener la licencia de conducir en California, es necesario cumplir ciertos requisitos impuestos por el estado. Primero es necesario tener al menos 16 años de edad y demostrar que se está inscrito en un programa de educación vial en el estado de California, que ofrece un curso de prueba escrita. Luego se debe presentar una prueba escrita y completar una clase teórica, así como un examen de manejo práctico. Una vez que se hayan cumplido con estos requisitos, el solicitante tendrá que proporcionar su información de identificación personal, como una prueba de la identidad, para poder iniciar el proceso de solicitud de licencia de conducir en California.

Además, el candidato deberá proporcionar una prueba de residencia vigente en el estado para realizar el trámite de licencia. El Departamento del Vehículo de Motor (DMV) de California exige que los solicitantes cuenten con un seguro de automóvil válido para obtener una licencia de conducir. El seguro debe ser emitido por una compañía de seguros autorizada por el estado, y debe ser válido durante el período previo a la certificación de la licencia. Finalmente, el solicitante deberá pagar los impuestos correspondientes a la licencia de conducir antes de que se le otorgue.

Preguntas Relacionadas

¿Qué requisitos legales tengo que cumplir para obtener una licencia de caza en California?

Para obtener una licencia de caza en California, es necesario cumplir con una serie de requisitos legales. Primero, debe estar al día con el impuesto sobre las ventas del estado de California y la tasa de registro de armas de fuego. Estas tasas son exigidas por el Departamento de Pesca y Vida Silvestre (DFW) de California. Segundo, debe haber completado un curso obligatorio de seguridad en el uso de armas de fuego. Tercero, debe tener una prueba de aptitud oculta para demostrar que sabe manejar un arma de fuego con seguridad. Cuarto, debe presentar una copia de su identificación con foto emitida por el estado de California u otro estado reconocido. Quinto, los solicitantes de licencias de armas de caza deben proporcionar una certificación médica, ya sea del estado de California o de otro estado reconocido, que indique que está capacitado para usar armas de fuego con seguridad. Sexto, el solicitante debe pagar la tarifa correspondiente a la licencia de caza antes de que el DFW expida la licencia. Finalmente, séptimo, debe proporcionar una prueba de edad para demostrar que es mayor de edad.

¿Puede alguien con un registro criminal solicitar una licencia de caza en California?

No, alguien con un registro criminal no puede solicitar una licencia de caza en California. De acuerdo a la legislación estatal, cualquier persona que tenga una condena por un delito relacionado con el manejo, posesión o uso de armas de fuego o de cualquier artículo de caza o pesca, está inhabilitada para obtener un permiso de caza. Sin embargo, el condenado podría recibir autorización para la caza despues de cumplir con la sentencia legal y de ser verificado por la División de Vida Silvestre. Si la Division determina que el demandante es «adecuado para tener acceso al arma de fuego», el condenado podría obtener un indulto gubernamental para su licencia de caza.

¿Existen restricciones de edad para obtener una licencia de caza en California?

En California, hay una restricción de edad para obtener una licencia de caza. Una persona debe tener al menos 16 años para ser elegible para solicitarla. Autorización y asesoramiento adicional puede ser necesario para los menores de 18 años para obtener la autorización parental antes de que puedan obtener una licencia. Los mayores de 65 años están exentos de la licencia de caza en California.

You hear people talking about soaking venison in buttermilk. But why? Does it work? I tried it and here’s what happened.

For YEARS people have been telling me to soak venison in milk or buttermilk before cooking it. Any time I put a post out on social media about why deer meat might taste *gamey* someone always comments “soak in milk overnight. Works every time.” Honestly, I never really got the hype.

Prefer watching a video over reading an article? Here’s the full experiment I did on YouTube!

After all this time, I decided to do a controlled study. I took venison chops from the same animal and cooked them the exact same way: salted, seared in a cast iron pan, basted in garlic, thyme and butter, rested for 10 minutes, finished with flakey salt, pepper, and a squeeze of lemon. My variable was soaking 3 of the chops in buttermilk overnight prior to cooking.

Here’s what happened:

Why soak venison in buttermilk? What does it do?

People have been soaking venison and other proteins in milk or buttermilk for years. The claim is that the acidic or low ph level helps to break down the tissue to tenderize the meat while also ridding the meat of a powerfully “gamey” or wild/iron-like flavor.

I ultimately choose to work with buttermilk because it has a lower ph level than milk.

Why I was skeptical

I was mainly skeptical because of the marriage of flavor between venison and milk/buttermilk. It’s just not an inherently great pairing. My initial thought was “yes, I’m sure the acid in buttermilk can help tenderize the meat but wouldn’t you be better off using a marinade with flavors that complement venison? Like citrus or red wine.”. I’m in love with my All-Purpose Marinade (and still am after this experiment) so my thoughts were to stick with something like that instead of using a dairy product.

The thought of getting all of the buttermilk off of the meat before cooking also seemed daunting. One of my biggest tips for working with any protein is drying your meat with a paper towel as best you can before cooking to get a great sear. So, this worried me, too. But, forth I went to the kitchen.

How to soak venison in buttermilk

To soak venison in buttermilk all you need to do is grab a zip-top bag or bowl with a lid and totally submerge the meat in the buttermilk. I marinated overnight, but 4 hours or so should do the trick.

Next, once the meat is marinated, remove it from the buttermilk and PAT IT DRY. You’re going to use up a few paper towels (or kitchen towels if you’re OK with that). BUT DO NOT RINSE THE MEAT. Just be very diligent and pat the meat dry with a towel. It will be fine and actually didn’t hinder the searing process or leave a weird taste behind at all. (are you starting to get the sense that this worked well for me?!)

Next, heat a cast iron pan or grill over medium-high heat. I prefer the cast iron method so I’ll talk about that here.

While your pan heats, salt the meat generously and pat it dry AGAIN with a towel. When the pan is hot, add some sort of high heat tolerant cooking fat (duck fat, avocado oil, etc) and add the meat to the pan.

Cooking time will vary depending on the size of your chops. But, when you have a nice sear on one side (anywhere from 2-5 minutes) flip the meat. Then, add about 1-2 tablespoons of butter, smashed garlic cloves and fresh thyme to the pan. Tilt the pan to the side and baste the meat by spooning the butter and aromatics over the chops.

Once the internal temperature reaches about 115-125F, remove the meat from the pan. If you’re grilling just flip and grill on each side for 2-5 mins. You do NOT want to cook venison over medium-rare. I like rare plus. Trust me and get used to cooking it this way.

Let it rest for at least 10 minutes before slicing against the grain.

Season with some fresh cracked pepper, flakey salt (or regular salt – just a pinch) and a little squeeze of lemon. You’re done! That’s all there is to it.

Here’s how soaking deer meat in buttermilk works

The ph level in buttermilk helps to break down the tissue to tenderize the meat and aid in moisture retention resulting in potentially more tender and juicy meat. The protein found in dairy, casein, also binds to the meat potentially helping to rid the animal of a powerfully “gamey” or wild/iron-like flavor.

Does soaking venison in buttermilk work?

In short – YES! Here’s what I noticed after comparing plain venison and buttermilk soaked venison cooked in the same fashion:

1. The meat was more tender and retained more liquid making it plumper and juicer. The buttermilk soaked meat actually looked different than the control on the inside. It was visibly juicer (check out the video to see).
2. The flavor of the buttermilk marinated meat was more mild. I actually prefer the control group (plain, unmarianted) because the taste was fresher and a bit more *wild*, if you will. However, the animial I was working with was extremely palatable and perfectly cooked (if I do say so myself).
3. The meat did not taste poor due to being soaked in dairy! I managed to get off all of the buttermilk just by patting dry and there was not a residual flavor left behind.

So…Should you soak deer meat in milk or buttermilk?

Here’s my conclusion. Soaking in buttermilk can help if one of the following circumstances is true for you:

• You don’t like the taste of deer meat because you’re not used to eating it and you have a bunch of chops and steaks to use up and you like beef steak.
• You harvested an older buck or buck in peak rut and the flavor is strong. Or really if you have an animal that just tastes really negatively different to you (maybe it’s diet, lifestyle) from past deer you’ve consumed.
• Something went awry with your kill and you potentially didn’t execute swiftly enough.
• You’re cooking for a group of people who are intimidated by the flavor of deer meat.
• Something went amis during the field dressing or processing process (and the meat is still safe to eat).
• You just want to switch things up because you’ve got SO MUCH deer meat on hand.

All in all, I’m pleasantly surprised by the results of this study. Will I always soak my meat in buttermilk? Nah. Will I do it again? Probably! I was impressed by the tender texture it resulted in most of all.

Thanks for humoring me and encouraging me to write this post! What should I test next? In the meantime, grab a copy of my cookbook, Venison Every Day, for more recipe ideas!

Other recipes you may find helpful:

• Ground Venison Tacos
• Venison Lasagna
• Venison Chili
• Venison Burgers
• Venison Enchiladas
• Venison Pasta Bake

Print

Ham radio is an amateur radio system with a long and exciting history. There are well over 600,000 ham radio operators in the U.S. and 2 ½ million around the world. Despite its name, Ham radio is much more than a hobby. Ham operators have advanced the science of radio and electronics, provided emergency communications during countless disasters, and even worked with NASA. If you’re interested in Ham radio, you can begin with a modest setup and increase your investment of time and resources as your interest grows. There is more than enough going on in the field to keep your attention for a lifetime. This guide will explain just what being a ham operator entails, what you need to know about radios and antennas, how to get started, and where to find resources for education and licensing.

The Early Days Of Amateur Radio Operators

At the very beginning of the 20th century, people began building “wireless” radio sets from plans published in magazines and books. Interestingly, teenagers were among the earliest fans of the new technology. Not only was radio communication a novelty, but it was also easy for young people to get involved because of the low cost of building a basic radio.

Those early amateur radios were used mostly for entertainment. Being able to chat back and forth with someone in the next town or even one state over was exciting. Before the advent of amateur radio, telegraph offices were the only way to communicate over distances, and they charged by the word. Ham radio let people communicate for free from the comfort of home; however, on the earliest Ham radio sets Morse Code was the only available type of communication.

More advanced radio technology that made voice communication possible arrived just a few years later. The number of amateur radio operators grew, and eventually, problems arose with interference. At this point, the Federal Communications Commission stepped in and began requiring licensing to operate an amateur radio. They also restricted amateur radios to certain frequency ranges and introduced call signs to give each operator a unique identity on the air.

The Different Types of Ham Radio

There are three basic types of ham radio, each with its own strengths and drawbacks.

Handheld Radios

Handheld radios are easily portable and resemble large walkie-talkies. They have a short, rubber-covered antenna known as a “stubby” or “rubber ducky”. Handhelds are common at large public events, or in emergency situations when amateur radio service is needed for communication. Disaster situations wreak havoc on cell phone networks, either because everyone is trying to use their phone at once, or because power loss takes down the service. Because they run on batteries, handheld radios are ideal for emergency services. Even though the small antenna provides a limited range, the lower frequencies allow the signal to propagate further than other radios could.

Mobile Radios

Mobile ham radios are the nearest equivalent to CB radios. These book-sized units are typically mounted under a dashboard in a vehicle. Their control interface is designed to be simple enough for beginning radio operators, and most importantly, for drivers. Mobile radios use handheld push-to-talk microphones and often operate specifically in the 10-meter band, where they’re tailored for use on the road. They all have standard antenna jacks, and a variety of antennas can be used with them. This gives them a significantly longer range than other popular types of mobile radio. Mobile ham radios can transmit with up to 200 watts of power across the high-frequency band.

Base Stations

Base station radios are considerably larger than mobile radios, are installed in a stationary location, and are more complex to use. They provide communication in multiple ham bands and can handle both analog and digital modes; they may be combined with computers for digital communication. Base station radios are often connected to more than one antenna to accommodate both the VHF and UHF bands. Some of those antennas are quite large and are usually mounted to small towers.

Base stations are a lot of fun once you know what you’re doing. Using these amateur stations, operators can talk around the world by bouncing radio waves off either the ionosphere or satellites. They present an endless set of challenges and opportunities for operators. Unsurprisingly, the most technically-inclined ham operators often use base station radios. They have the additional training and experience needed to get the best performance out of the equipment.

How To Choose A Ham Radio

Once you decide to become a ham radio operator, you’ll be shopping for equipment. The features you choose for your radio will depend on how you plan to use your new license. Because ham radio has a learning curve, it doesn’t make sense to buy a more advanced radio than you’ll need at the beginning.

If you’re not sure about your level of interest, handheld radios are the least expensive option and make a great point of entry. Because of their limited range and somewhat specialized use, handheld models will only connect over short distances. If your main interest is contributing to emergency services, a handheld radio is ideal. If you want to communicate over a wider range, a mobile radio might be a better choice. Mobile radios are a cost-effective option because you can disconnect the radio from your vehicle antenna and use the radio at home as a base station, connected to a larger antenna. It’s important to make sure that any mobile radio you purchase has a built-in antenna tuner.

At Stryker Radios, we’ve streamlined the user interface on our mobile radios to make them easier and safer to use in a vehicle. Stryker also makes antenna selection easy, with radio antennas and accessories ideal for mobile ham radios.

Experienced ham radio operators may want to set up a base station so they can transit over long distances. However, true base station radio sets can be quite expensive. They are also more complicated to use, and using them improperly can cause problems for other operators. The features and capabilities of base station radios are beyond the scope of a single article; if you’re just starting out as a ham radio hobbyist, a base station is probably not the best choice.

Ham Radio Licensing

In order to use a ham radio, amateur radio operators are now required by the Federal Communications Commission (FCC) to obtain a ham radio license. There are three levels of licensing for ham operators. The introductory level is known as a technician license. The 35-question license exam is easy for most people to pass with a little studying, especially since they removed the requirement to learn Morse Code. Once you pass the test, your ham radio license is mailed to you, along with your amateur radio call sign.

The three amateur radio licenses have increasingly difficult qualifications:

• Technician Class: an entry-level license that grants transmitting privileges on the VHF and UHF bands used for local communication, and limited Ham bands for global transmissions
• General Class: expands transmitting privileges to long-distance, international communication via signal propagation, and increased voice operation on Ham bands
• Extra Class: provides access to the full range of Ham bands allocated to the Amateur Radio Service

Many beginners never feel the need to apply for a higher-level license because they enjoy operating a ham radio station with a technician’s license alone. For example, a growing number of people are moving from CB radios to 10-meter mobile radios in their vehicles. While CB radios have long been a mainstay for long-haul truckers, they are limited to a range of about seven miles. A Ham operator in the 10-meter band has more power and a range of 30 miles; having a technician’s license allows CB radio operators to use Ham radio as well.