Standard Operating Procedure – FOX006

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Background

The introduced European red fox (Vulpes vulpes) has a significant impact on native fauna and agricultural production. Fox control methods include lethal baiting, trapping, shooting, den fumigation, den destruction and exclusion fencing.

Trapping may be useful for the control of nuisance animals but is not effective as a general fox control method.

Cage traps are used to capture problem foxes in urban/residential areas and other areas where it is unacceptable or undesirable to use 1080 or leg-hold traps. Animals trapped in a cage can be transported away from the area for euthanasia. Padded-jaw, leg-hold traps can only be used at sites where the animal can be killed by shooting while still held in the trap. (Refer to Trapping of foxes using padded-jaw traps.)

From an animal welfare perspective, cage traps are preferred over leg-hold traps as fewer injuries are sustained and non-target animals can be released unharmed.

This standard operating procedure (SOP) is a guide only; it does not replace or override the legislation that applies in the relevant state or territory jurisdiction. The SOP should only be used subject to the applicable legal requirements (including OH&S) operating in the relevant jurisdiction.

Application

• Trapping is time-consuming and labour intensive and is therefore an inefficient method for large-scale fox control in Australia.
• Cage traps are generally not effective in rural environments where foxes are more suspicious of man-made structures.
• Traps have the potential to cause significant suffering and distress so should only be used when there is no suitable alternative.
• Humane and successful trapping requires extensive training and experience.
• Selection of appropriate traps and trap sites will maximise chance of capture and minimise the distress caused to target and non-target animals.
• Every effort must be made to avoid target and non-target deaths from factors such as exposure, shock, capture myopathy and predation.
• Once trapped, foxes are either euthanased by shooting at the site of capture or taken to an appropriate site away from residential areas to be shot whilst still in the cage or after transfer to a bag.
• Traps must be used in accordance with relevant state and territory legislation (see Appendix 1). In some states for example, Western Australia, a permit may be required to trap within certain municipalities.
• Shooting of foxes should only be performed by skilled operators who have the necessary experience with firearms and who hold the appropriate licences and accreditation. Storage and transportation of firearms and ammunition must comply with relevant legislation requirements.

Animal welfare considerations

Impact on target animals

• Foxes are likely to suffer distress from being confined in a cage trap and they can sometimes be injured while trying to escape, although the potential for injury is less than that for leg-hold traps.
• Cage traps can cause extensive injuries to the teeth and mouth of trapped foxes; this is minimised by using a small mesh size (50 mm is recommended).
• Traps must be inspected daily to prevent suffering and possible death from exposure, thirst, starvation and/or shock.
• It is preferable to set up traps at sites where vegetation can provide shade and shelter.
• Shade cloth or hessian can be for used for protection during extremes of weather. In hot weather, water should be provided and in cold weather bedding should be available inside the cage. Where possible, trapping should be avoided when adverse weather conditions threaten the welfare of trapped animals.
• Captured animals must be approached carefully and quietly to reduce panic, further stress and risk of injury.
• Trapped foxes must be euthanased as quickly and humanely as possible.
• If transporting a trapped fox away from the capture site to be euthanased, the cage should be covered with hessian or a blanket to provide shelter from direct sunlight, wind and rain and to minimise stress from visual threats.
• To minimise the animal welfare implications of orphaning dependant cubs, it is preferable not to undertake trapping when vixens are lactating (i.e. August/September).
• If lactating vixens are shot, reasonable efforts should be made to find dependent cubs and kill them quickly and humanely by either shooting (with a single shot to the brain) or by fumigation of the den with carbon monoxide (refer to Fumigation of fox dens with carbon monoxide).

Impact on non-target animals

• Traps must not be set near areas that are regularly frequented by non-target species.
• Traps are not target specific; therefore other species such as birds and reptiles may be caught.
• Non-target animals caught in traps must be examined for injuries and signs of illness or distress and dealt with as follows: – Animals which are unharmed or have only received minimal injuries such as minor cuts or abrasions should be immediately released at the site of capture. – Animals which have more severe injuries or which are suffering from thermal stress should receive appropriate attention. An animal suffering from thermal stress can initially be placed in a suitable quiet holding area which provides warmth or shade to allow recovery before release. Animals with treatable injuries that cannot be immediately released or those failing to recover from thermal stress should be presented to a veterinarian or a registered wildlife carer for treatment. – Animals that have injuries which are untreatable or which would compromise their survival in the wild should be euthanased using a technique that is suitable for the species. For more information on euthanasia techniques (refer to GEN001 Methods of Euthanasia).
• If a dog or a cat is caught in the trap, it should be taken to the nearest council pound for assessment. In some states this is a legal requirement. Traps placed in urban/residential areas have a reasonable likelihood of catching owned dogs or cats.

Health and safety considerations

• Trapped foxes are dangerous to handle and can inflict serious bites. If these foxes are killed while still in the cage, there should be no need to handle them directly. However, if handling is necessary, leather gloves and a catching pole should be used. Operators must be protected by tetanus immunisation in case of bite infection.
• Firearms are hazardous. All people should stand well behind the shooter when a fox is being shot. The line of fire must be chosen to prevent accidents or injury from stray bullets or ricochets.
• Care must be taken when handling fox carcasses as they may carry diseases such as hydatidosis and sarcoptic mange that can affect humans and other animals. A fox with obvious mange should only be handled while wearing gloves. Routinely wash hands after handling all fox carcasses.

Equipment required

Traps

• Wire mesh cage traps are used. These can be obtained from commercial suppliers and are available in a variety of sizes (eg a fox size cage is 90 cm x 45 cm x 45 cm, and made of 2.5 mm welded wire with a mesh size of 50 mm). The traps have a spring door that is activated either by a treadle plate or a hook mechanism.

Lures

• Olfactory stimuli such as fox faeces or urine (or a mixture of both) or a commercially prepared lure (e.g. synthetic fermented egg) may be used to lure foxes into the trap.
• The attractiveness of lures will vary with season and location.

Meat baits

• A handful of meat bait is placed inside the cage trap. Rabbit, lamb, chicken, and kangaroo have all been used as bait.
• Attractiveness and palatability of the bait will vary with season and location.

Firearms and ammunition

• Firearms no smaller than a .17 calibre rimfire with hollow/soft point ammunition are recommended for euthanasia.
• The accuracy and precision of firearms should be tested against inanimate targets prior to the commencement of any shooting operation.

Procedures

Selection of trap sites

• Traps should be set along fences, tracks and trails or areas frequented by foxes for example, scent pads, scratch points, holes in fences, around carcases.
• The location of all trap sites must be accurately recorded. This information should be readily available to others in case the trapper is unable to return to check traps.
• Do not place in areas where the traps may be interfered with/damaged by large stock or humans.

Placing and setting the trap

• It is preferable to set traps at the end of each day and check early each morning. If traps are left set during the day, they should be checked again in late afternoon.
• Before setting each trap ensure that it is functioning properly.
• Where possible place the traps parallel to objects such as fences, logs or sheds with the rear of the cage against an obstruction to prevent foxes taking the main bait without going into the trap.
• Cage traps should be set squarely on the ground and the doors of the trap bent upward to increase the openness of the trap space.
• Place the meat bait at the rear of the trap, attached to the hook mechanism if present. A second piece of meat is placed at the mouth of the trap.
• Cover the floor of the trap with 3-5cm of soil.
• If using lures place them in suitable positions inside and outside the trap.
• The trap should be pegged to the ground to prevent the animal from tipping it over and injuring itself and/or releasing the trap door.

Shooting of foxes

• Trapped live foxes should be destroyed by shooting whilst still inside the cage trap.
• Unnecessary people should keep away from the area to allow the fox to become less agitated. The shooter should approach the animal in a calm and quiet manner.
• To maximise the impact of the shot and to minimise the risk of misdirection the range should be as short as possible, that is, 3-5 cm from the head.
• Never fire when the fox is moving its head, be patient and wait until the fox is motionless before shooting. Accuracy is important to achieve a humane death. One shot to the head should ensure instantaneous loss of consciousness and rapid death without resumption of consciousness.
• Shots must be aimed to destroy the major centres at the back of the brain near the spinal cord. This can be achieved by one of the following methods (see Diagram 1):

Frontal position (front view)

The firearm is aimed at a point midway between the level of the eyes and the base of the ears, but slightly off to one side so as to miss the bony ridge that runs down the middle of the skull. The aim should be slightly across the centreline of the skull and towards the spine.

Temporal position (side view)

The firearm is aimed horizontally at the side of the head at a point midway between the eye and the base of the ear.

• Death of shot animals should always be confirmed by observing the following: – absence of rhythmic, respiratory movements – absence of eye protection reflex (corneal reflex) or ‘blink’ – a fixed, glazed expression in the eyes – loss of colour in mucous membranes (become mottled and pale without refill after pressure is applied). If death cannot be verified, a second shot to the head should be taken immediately.

References

• Baker PJ, Harris S, Robertson CPJ, Saunders G and White PCL (2001). Differences in the capture rate of cage-trapped red foxes Vulpes vulpes and an evaluation of rabies control measures in Britain. Journal of Applied Ecology 38:823-835.
• Canadian Council on Animal Care (2003). Guidelines on the care and use of wildlife. CCAC, Ottawa, Canada. Kay B, Gifford E, Perry P and van de Ven R (2000). Trapping efficiency for foxes (Vulpes vulpes) in central New South Wales: age and sex biases and the effects of reduced fox abundance. Wildlife Research 27:547-552.
• Longair JA, Finley GG, Laniel MA, MacKay C, Mould K, Olfert ED, Roswell H and Preston A (1991). Guidelines for euthanasia of domestic animals by firearms. Canadian Veterinary Journal 32:724-726.
• Saunders G, Coman B, Kinnear J and Braysher M (1995). Managing vertebrate pests: foxes. Australian Government Publishing Service, Canberra.
• UFAW (1988). Humane killing of animals (4th Ed). Universities Federation for Animal Welfare, Potters Bar, England.

The Centre for Invasive Species Solutions manages these documents on behalf of the Environment and Invasives Committee (EIC). The authors of these documents have taken care to validate the accuracy of the information at the time of writing. This information has been prepared with care but it is provided “as is”, without warranty of any kind, to the extent permitted by law.

In this guide I’m going to show you the best varmint scope.

In fact:

These are the same scopes that many optic experts and competitive shooters use.

The best part?

I’ve sorted the scopes by use. So whether you’re on a budget or need a solid AR 15 varmint scope, you’ll find it here.

Let’s get started!

The 5 Best Varmint Scope

If you’re pressed on time, here’s a quick list of the best varmint scope:

1. Nightforce SHV 5-20×56: Best For AR-15
2. Leupold VX-3i 6.5-20×50: Best for 223
3. Vortex Crossfire II 6-18×44: Best For 17 HMR
4. Athlon Argos BTR 6-24×50: Best Varmint Scope for the Money
5. Sightron SIII SS 6-24×50: Best For 22-250

1. Nightforce SHV 5-20×56: Best For AR-15

Every once in a while a really high-end company will listen to the masses and make a product that’s top of the line while still being affordable.

This is one of those times.

Nightforce is well known as the pinnacle of high-end precision scopes.

Their scopes are so tough that one literally took a bullet through the scope in the middle of combat and it kept working.

That’s a level of quality you’re just not going to see on a budget scope.

The average firearm owner is finally in luck though, because Nightforce has released the Nightforce SHV.

This is the perfect AR-15 varmint scope.

It’s got all of the quality, most of the features, and it’s a third of the price.

Keep reading and I’ll tell you exactly why you need to add this scope to your collection.

Glass Clarity & Reticle

The glass on this lens is pristine.

The clarity even when cranked up to 20x power is unbelievable.

The FOV is huge and the edge to edge images have incredible color contrast.

I’ve used this scope to look out to 1,000 yards and I could still see everything clearly like it was right in front of me.

The glass is fully multi-coated and thanks to that it has super high light transmissions.

Whether you’re shooting in full daylight, dawn, dusk, or anywhere in between you’ll be able to see everything you’re aiming at.

The Nightforce SHV comes with an etched SFP MOAR reticle which you can choose to have illuminated or not.

You want the illuminated option.

Without it, you’re not going to be able to see at 20x power at dawn or dusk.

With it though, it makes sighting and zeroing a breeze.

Some people aren’t fans of the extra hash marks on the MOAR reticle, and if you’re one of them you can get an IHR reticle on it instead.

Either way, if you’re shooting in low light often get the illuminated reticle.

It eliminates distortion due to low light conditions and it’s gonna make your life easier.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

The eye relief is 3.15”-3.54”.

That’s pretty standard and works well for me on my AR.

If you’re looking for an option with a little more room, check out these AR scopes

It’s got a generous eye box and the turrets are extremely adjustable to make it work for you.

Add to that the fast focus eyepiece it comes with and you’ve got a great scope on your hands.

Durability

This thing is a beast.

At 29.1oz it’s absolutely massive, so you’ll want to take that into account if you’re going to be lugging it around.

On the other hand, it’s extremely durable.

It’s made of a solid 30mm piece of aircraft-grade aluminum that’s reinforced with hardened bronze throughout it.

The walls of the scope are also 3x thicker than any of its competitors which helps reduce stress and improves thermal stability.

On top of that, it’s water, fog, and shockproof.

Literally whatever you can think to throw at this scope it’ll be able to withstand.

I had a sling malfunction while hauling my rifle on a hunt and my rifle dropped and landed right on the scope.

It took no damage.

Not a scratch, not a ding or dent, and it still held it’s zero when I shot it afterward.

For me that more than made up for its weight.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The turrets are capped and have metal dials that allow for fingertip adjustments.

They move easily and click audibly and keep their position when they’re supposed to.

It also comes with a zero-set feature that allows a quick return to zero.

It doesn’t matter how many elevation adjustments you’ve made, it’ll return to your initial zero in a snap.

It took me three shots to get it perfectly zeroed, and I’ve never had an issue with it since.

I’ve shot it from 100-600 yards and the return to zero was spot on each time.

Parallax & Magnification

The magnification range is 5-20x, and it’s got a 56mm objective lens.

It’s the perfect scope for any kind of hunting you want to do.

I’ve used it to pick off varmints on my land, to take down 8pt bucks, and for target practice.

The clarity is as perfect at 20x as it is at 5x, and I’ve never had an issue with tunneling like I have with other scopes.

This scope comes with a side parallax adjustment knob to manually fix any parallax you might encounter.

It starts at 25 yards and goes to infinity, and it’s clearly marked with the distances

Mounting & Rings

It doesn’t come with rings or a mount, so you’ll need to order one separately.

I decided to stick with Nightorce and picked up their 1.125 Titanium Alloy Ring Set and it’s worked great for me.

I’ve also recently discovered how great ghillie suits are when hunting, so check out these suits if you’re interested.

Is the Nightforce SHV 5-20×56 worth it?

Without a doubt.

This is an insane amount of quality and features at what is a steal of a price for Nightforce.

Let’s Review:

• 5-20x magnification
• Water, fog, & shockproof
• Super clear at every power
• Illuminated MOAR or IHR reticle
• Capped turrets and hugely adjustable knobs
• Great for varmints, hunting, or target practice
• Incredible durability with aircraft-grade aluminum & hardened bronze

On top of all that is the Nightforce transferable limited lifetime warranty.

This is an incredible scope from an incredible company.

Don’t just take my word for it though, check out the Nightforce SHV for yourself.

2. Leupold VX-3i 6.5-20×50: Best for 223

If you want a scope that pairs perfectly with your 223, the Leupold VX-3i is the best.

In fact, its low light capabilities make it one of the best scopes around for hunting.

It has quickly become one of my all time favorite scopes.

Want to know why? Keep reading.

Glass Clarity & Reticle

With this scope you get crystal clear glass for optimum clarity.

Leupold uses their own lens coating, called DiamondCoat2, that cuts back on glare, protects from scratches, and lets in tons of light! This, by itself, provides you with an amazing sight picture.

Plus, they have the Twilight Max Light Management system, which gives you better clarity at dawn, dusk, or any low light conditions. You’ll get an average of 20 extra minutes of hunting time at the beginning and end of the day.

While it’s not a night vision scope, it’s the closest you’ll get in a regular scope.

If that’s not enough, this scope has a Fine Duplex CDS reticle.

CDS stands for Custom Dial System. What this allows you to do is customize it to your weapon and ammo. Then it calculates ballistics and holdovers for you, which means long range shots just became a piece of cake!

The fine duplex draws your eye right to the center of the target with thicker edges that melt into fine lines at the center, making target acquisition fast and easy.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

The eye relief on this scope is 3.7 at high magnification and 4.5 at low magnification.

For the most part, I find this to be more than adequate, but it can be a little tight at those super long ranges. It’s easy to manage with a good cheek weld though.

The nice, wide field of view from the eyebox allows you to cover a larger area, which makes this a great 223 varmint scope.

Durability

Leupold makes scopes that are rugged and highly durable and the VX-3i is no exception.

In fact, Leupold puts all their scopes through 5000 impacts with their recoil simulation machine, aptly named the Punisher, to ensure that their scopes will survive anything you can throw at it.

The aircraft quality aluminum that this scope is made from keeps it lightweight, while also being tough as nails.

The VX-3i also has Leupold’s proprietary gas blend and seals that safeguard the scope from water and keep it from fogging up.

On top of that, Leupold offers a lifetime warranty on this scope, so if you have any problems, they’ll take care of it for you.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The elevation and windage turrets are ¼ MOA precision finger clicks.

They are easy to adjust and you get audible, solid clicks each time. The numbers on the dials are pretty big too, so they’re easy to see even if your eyesight isn’t so great.

What about zeroing?

I had mine zeroed in just a few shots. It was quick and painless.

Not only that, I’ve easily shot over 5000 rounds and have yet to readjust the zero. It’s held true for me.

Parallax & Magnification

With this scope you’ll get a variable magnification of 6.5-20x.

If you’re like me, you use your 223 for varmint hunting, which makes this scope perfect for those intermediate to long range targets.

If you’re looking for something that will help you with short to medium ranges, check out this list of the best 1-6x scopes.

What I love most about the VX-3i is that it has a side focus parallax adjustment. It’s easy to use and means you’ll never have to worry about distortion.

Mounting & Rings

While this doesn’t come with any type of mount, it does come with a bikini lens cover.

However, I didn’t really like that cover much and ended up buying the Alumina flip cover instead. It works much better and is easier to use.

For the mount, I purchased these Leupold Savage rings, but you can get whichever rings you prefer as long as they’re 30mm.

Is the Leupold VX-3i 6.5-20×50 worth it?

Varmint hunting with a 223 at dusk and dawn has never been easier than with this scope.

It has:

• Clear glass
• DiamondCoat2
• Fine Duplex CDS reticle
• Precision ¼ MOA turrets
• 6.5-20x variable magnification
• Rugged, light-weight, durability
• Side focus parallax adjustment
• Twilight Max Light Management System

If you’re looking for the best scope for your 223, try the Leupold VX-3i 6.5-20×50. You won’t be disappointed.

3. Vortex Crossfire II 6-18×44: Best For 17 HMR

I don’t always use an HMR rifle, but it’s perfect for getting rid of varmints on my property.

In that case, I’m not going to use just any scope.

I want a 17 HMR scope that’s going to work perfectly with my HMR.

If you’re looking for something with more power check out these Ruger scopes.

But if you’re just wanting to do some close to mid-range hunting, then that’s where the Vortex Crossfire II comes in.

It’s a redesigned version of Vortex’s best selling rifle and you can pick it up for an incredible price.

The original was fantastic, but somehow they’ve managed to improve it even more.

Keep reading and I’ll tell you why the Vortex Crossfire II is the perfect scope for you.

Glass Clarity & Reticle

The lenses are fully multi-coated with an anti-reflective coating which gives you great light transmission and clarity.

That means this scope is perfect for low-light shooting and for catching varmints just before dawn.

It’s not the clearest glass on the market, but to find anything comparable you’ll be paying at least twice the amount.

For the insanely low price though the clarity and glass are pretty darn great.

I was able to shoot a coyote at 300 yards and it felt like it was only 50 yards away.

Once you start getting past 700 yards or so though tunneling became an issue for me.

I was able to adjust it, but it was still noticeable.

In short, use it for close to mid-range shooting and it’ll treat you right.

If you’re looking for a long-range scope, check out these scout scopes instead.

It comes with an illuminated Dead-Hold BDC reticle, which is fantastic once you get used to it.

It’s great for experienced shooters as it helps eliminate guesswork from holdover and windage corrections.

If you’re new to shooting, you may want to stick with a more basic reticle.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

The eye relief is 3.7-4.4”.

That’s perfect for most rifles, and I found it incredibly comfortable.

Combined with the fast-focus eyepiece and the generous eye box, I had no issues easily acquiring my targets.

Durability

This scope is made of a single solid piece of aircraft-grade aluminum which makes it incredibly durable.

I dropped it out of a blind one day on accident and I just knew it was gonna be wrecked.

When I retrieved it not only was it still intact and functioning, but it still held my zero perfectly.

It’s fog and shockproof, plus it’s nitrogen purged and O-ring sealed.

That means it’s 100% waterproof in any environment.

Vortex is known for the incredible durability of their scopes, and they back it with a lifetime warranty.

At this price, you’re not going to find another scope that’s anywhere close to this level of quality.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The ¼ MOA turrets are capped and finger adjustable, so you don’t need any tools to get the job done.

They audibly click and easily reset to zero.

It only took me 3 shots to zero it, and it’s held that zero for over 500 rounds now.

Parallax & Magnification

It’s got a 6-18x magnification range with a 44mm objective lens.

The magnification changes are smooth and there are tons of adjustments you can make.

The Vortex Crossfire II comes with a parallax adjustment knob that starts at 10 yds and goes to infinity.

The tunneling I mentioned earlier at higher mags was easily and quickly fixed with that feature.

Mounting & Rings

No mounts or rings are included, so you’ll need to buy them.

I use the Game Reaper Marlin Medium Mount and it’s worked perfectly for me.

Is the Vortex Crossfire II 6-18×44 worth it?

For the price, there’s no other scope on the market that comes close.

When you factor in all its great features this scope is a steal.

Let’s look at the best features again:

• 6-18x mag
• 3.7-4.4” eye relief
• Incredible durability
• Water, fog, shockproof
• Illuminated Dead-Hold BDC reticle
• Fully multi-coated, anti-reflective lenses
• Finger adjustable ¼ MOA capped turrets

As if all of that weren’t great enough, Vortex adds their amazing Lifetime Warranty.

If anything ever happens to your scope they’ll replace or repair it.

That’s a pretty solid statement for a company to put behind their products.

Go look at it for yourself. Check out the Vortex Crossfire II here.

4. Athlon Argos BTR 6-24×50: Best Varmint Scope for the Money

The Athlon Argos BTR 6-24×50 is the best budget friendly scope for varmint hunting.

In fact:

I bought this scope in a hurry because I needed something affordable and effective for hunting coyotes. Now it’s my go-to for varmint my ar 15.

Here’s why it works…

Glass Clarity & Reticle

For a sub-$400 optic, I wasn’t expecting much. But when I mounted it on my AR, I was blown away.

The glass is clear and crisp with plenty of light.

That glass quality struggled at higher magnifications (18x-24x), but only in comparison to top dollar scopes. For $300, I can’t complain.

The lenses are fully multicoated to reduce reflected light so no more worrying about advertising your position. The coating also increases light transmission which gives the optic its crisp image.

I went with the APMR MIL etched reticle. It’s also available in MOA.

The reason why I like this Christmas tree design is because it has a lot of windage and elevation lines. I don’t particularly like relying on turrets to line up my shots at distances out to 1000 yards.

When it comes to hunting, I like to move fast. With the APMR MIL, I could easily sight my scope from 100 to 1000 yards by knowing what each line corresponded to in yardage.

It also helped that the reticle was first focal plane, a feature normally only seen in top dollar scopes.

This means that the reticle shrinks and grows with your target as you zoom in or out, making target engagement quicker at low power while offering precise holdover positions in finer detail.

Finally, the reticle has a red LED illumination feature.

It’s no Trijicon, and thus not daylight bright to my standard, but it’s proved more than helpful at night.

In dark lighting conditions, the illumination is crisp and not overpowering, handy for hunting down the skunk in your neighborhood.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

For an otherwise versatile scope, the Argos BTR’s eye relief is its most limiting factor.

Only 3.3 inches of eye relief makes it tight for heavy recoiling calibers, but so long as you’re aware of it and practice good cheek weld, you’ll be fine. I’ve had no issues so far.

Overall, the eye box is generous. It does get a bit snug at those higher magnifications (18x-22x).

Durability

Despite the affordable price point, this scope isn’t cheaply made.

The scope body is single piece machined from 6061T6 aircraft grade aluminum meaning fewer moving parts and less points of failure so the scope can withstand serious recoil.

Not to mention that it’s completely waterproof, shockproof, and fogproof.

The factory argon purging removes any moisture from the tube which ensures that it remains fogproof with better thermal stability.

The lenses are also protected with a XPL coating to protect them from dirt, grease, and weather. Although I still use the included lens caps just in case.

I’d also like to add that the Argos BTR is the shortest, lightest rifle scope of this magnification on the market. I didn’t have to make any carrying adjustments or gym visits, the scope was ready to grab and go.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The turrets are accurate and hold well, although they were a bit mushy until I removed some of the factory heavy grease.

Re-greasing the turrets was a quick ten-minute process that made a world of difference for me.

All it takes is wiping out the factory grease with a long cotton swab and re-greasing with some Halofun Green Slime Lubricant.

After that, the clicks were positive and audible. The hash marks on the turrets make adjustments quick, as well as returning to zero easily.

Speaking of, I was zeroed within 7 shots of getting on paper. It held zero, despite being dropped twice, heavy recoil, and a couple hundred rounds.

Parallax & Magnification

The 6x-24x magnification makes this optic versatile for multiple shooting disciplines.

At 55 yards, I took out a hog that I could only see through the scope.

The magnification from 6x – 20x is very clear. Above that, it does lose some clarity and become a bit blurry.

The side parallax adjustment knob is smooth to turn and accurate, good for adjustments from 10 yards to infinity.

Mounting & Rings

I use the GG&G Flt Accucam Mount W/30Mm Rings. They’re sturdy, adjustable, and lightweight, although a little pricey.

If you want to save some money for more ammo, I recommend the Burris PEPR 30mm Mount. It works just as well, but any 30 mm rings should do.

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I also recommend a lens shade for sunny conditions. The Athlon Sunshade (50mm) works well to reduce glare and sun reflection.

Is the Athlon Argos BTR 6-24×50 worth it?

If you’re looking for a scope that can fill a variety of shooting disciplines and needs, then I highly recommend the Athlon Argos BTR 6-24×50.

There isn’t another scope in its price range that can match its brightness, clarity, and durability.

Here’s why:

• Durable build
• Rapid zero adjustment
• Fully multi-coated lenses
• Athlon “Gold Medal” Warranty

If you need a reliable varmint scope but can’t justify dropping a couple grand on an optic, I recommend the Athlon Argos BTR 6-24×50.

5. Sightron SIII SS 6-24×50: Best For 22-250

Sightron is one of the less popular scope makers in the market, and that’s a shame.

Their scopes are extremely durable, high quality, and they come with a killer warranty.

Plus the clarity of their glass is on par with Nightforce lenses for less than half the price.

I personally use this one on my Remington as my go-to varmint rifle scope.

There are other scopes you could use for you .22-250, but the Sightron SIII SS is my favorite.

If you’re looking for a top of the line scope without the price tag, then keep reading.

Glass Clarity & Reticle

The glass on this scope is crystal clear.

We’re talking I can see out to 1600 yards like it’s right in front of me clear.

Whether I have it at 6x or 24x magnification, the image quality is exactly the same.

It’s got fully multi-coated anti-reflective lenses which allow for a huge amount of light transmission.

That means I can see as clearly at dawn as I can mid-day.

When I’m shooting coyotes before the sun comes up at 300 yards on my land that’s an amazing feature.

The sharpness and clarity of this scope far exceed its price point.

It’s got a MOA-2 glass etched reticle which is a perfect companion to the fast-focus eyepiece.

That combination makes for extremely fast target acquisition so you always know where your target is.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

It’s got 3.6-3.8” of eye relief.

On my .22 Remington, that’s perfect.

It gives me just enough room that I don’t feel crowded.

Even at the higher magnifications, it’s not cramped.

Durability

This is a very sturdy scope.

It’s made from a single 30mm tube of high-quality aircraft-grade aluminum.

It’s nitrogen-filled to prevent fogging at any temperature.

That’s a huge advantage when you’re hunting in the chill early morning.

Add to that the fact that it’s water and shockproof and you’ve got a scope that you can use in any situation, elevation, or climate.

It’s a little hefty at 24.3oz, but the added weight allows for the scope walls to be twice as thick as its competitors.

Even if it gets knocked around a bit, this scope is going to hold up.

I mainly use mine for varmint hunting, so if you’re planning on going hunting with an AR instead, you should take a look at these scopes.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

This scope comes with tactical turrets that are designed to withstand extreme weather conditions.

They’re not going to budge if they get accidentally tapped.

With that said, they’re still finger adjustable and fairly easy to rotate, but they’re a little harder to maneuver than others.

The elevation and windage knobs both adjust to 100 MOA.

That combined with the ExacTrack adjustment system makes it insanely customizable to whatever situation your shot requires.

It’s also a breeze to zero, it took me less than three shots.

The turrets are clearly marked, so it’s super easy to reset them to zero regardless of how many adjustments you make.

Parallax & Magnification

The magnification range is 6-24x with a 50mm objective lens.

It provides incredible range and clarity whether you’re varmint hunting or running a 3 gun competition. Speaking of competition, check out my best 3-gun scope guide.

This scope also has a side parallax adjustment which ranges from 40 yards to infinity.

I’ve never had an issue with it tunneling, but if you do it’s easily fixable.

Mounting & Rings

There aren’t any mounts or rings included, so make sure you grab one.

I recommend Midwest Industries QD Offset Mount. It works great for this scope and for varmint hunting.

Is the Sightron SIII SS 6-24×50 worth it?

It’s an amazing scope that offers a level of quality you normally only see for 2-3 times the price.

Let’s review:

• 6-24x mag range
• Incredible durability
• Water, fog, and shockproof
• Glass etched MOA-2 reticle
• Crystal clear up to 1600 yards
• Nitrogen purged to eliminate fogging
• Tactical turrets and ExacTrack windage & elevation system

While definitely not the cheapest scope on the market, I believe it’s well worth the asking price.

On top of everything else, Sightron offers a Lifetime Replacement Warranty which can’t be beaten.

Go check out the Sightron SIII SS for yourself.

Now It’s Your Turn

I hope you enjoyed my best varmint scopeguide.

Now I want to turn it over to you:

Which scope will you pick for your firearm?

Let me know by leaving a quick comment down below.

This is a dynamic everyday carry guide curated by all of our authors for preppers both new and experienced. It is constantly being updated with up-to-date and accurate information, so please check back frequently for updates.

Every day carry encompasses all the items you carry on your person every day. It is less of a kit and more of a daily loadout. EDC (Everyday Carry) is popular far beyond prepping and survival- many people try to optimize what they carry with them for every single day of their lives. It can include pouches, multi-tools, and CCW or just be your keys and wallet.

EDC also includes the clothes you choose to wear. Versatility, weight, size, and functionality are all important for EDC gear.

Contents (Jump to a Section)

Everyday Carry Essentials

The everyday carry essentials with our recommended gear for each area. Outfitting yourself in most of these will give you the resources to tackle emergencies, disasters, or just every day life without notice.

Carried EDC Essentials

• Keys: Attach to your keychain tools.
• Wallet: Magpul DAKA Essential – One that is functional, durable, and either versatile or low-profile depending on your EDC approach. (See why the DAKA beats the others in our wallet review roundup)
• ID: Quickly prove your identity.
• Cash Stash: Don’t keep all your cash in one spot. Find out more about EDC cash stashes.
• EDC Multitool: Gerber Dime – Make yourself endlessly useful even when there aren’t disasters! (See why this is our top EDC multitool)
• Folding Knife: OKC Rat 1 – The quintessential survival folding knife. (See why this is the best value in survival folding knives)
• Cell Phone: A smartphone loaded with survival apps.
• Cell Phone Charger: Paired with your phone above.
• Steel Water Bottle: Nalgene Stainless 38oz (See why this is the best survival water bottle)
• Lighter: Ronson Jetlite (See why this is our favorite lighter)
• EDC Flashlight: Olight i3T EOS Flashlight (See why this is the best EDC Flashlight)
• Rainproof Pen: Rite in the Rain EDC Pen – take notes in any conditions (see why this is the best survival pen)
• Rainproof Paper: Rite in the Rain Notebook
• Mini First Aid Kit: A small, portable First Aid Kit.
• Prescription Medication: Store your prescription medicine in a water and air-tight portable container.
• Protein Bars: Clif Bars or your favorite protein/energy bar.
• Feminine Hygiene Supplies: Keep supplies nearby.

Worn EDC Essentials

• Work Gloves: Mechanix FastFit Covert Gloves (See why these are the best-reviewed survival gloves)
• Socks: Darn Tough Light Hiker (See why these are the best survival socks)
• Shirt: Carhartt Midweight Crew (See why this is the best survival shirt)
• Underwear: Some clean ones.
• Pants: TRU-SPEC Tactical Pants (See why these are our best budget pants)
• Ball Cap: Condor Tactical Cap (See why this is the best survival ball cap)
• Bandana: Colter Co. Reflective Bandana (See why this is the best survival bandana)
• Boots/Shoes: Sturdy hiking shoes or boots.

Suggested Additions for Your EDC Loadout

This gear may not be essential by definition, but adding any of these to your EDC will improve your loadout’s versatility for even more situations.

• EDC Backpack: A bag will allow you to carry much more equipment and gear wherever you go.
• Belt: 5.11 TDU Belt – You may be wearing one anyway, but adding a belt to your outfit can be useful for emergencies. (See why this one is the best survival belt).
• Jacket: 5.11 Bristol Parka – Lightweight but extremely versatile for a wide range of conditions (See why we recommend this in our survival jacket review).
• Poncho: Arcturus Rain Poncho – Staying dry is important during an emergency. (See why this is the best survival poncho)
• Sunglasses: Whether driving or just outside, sunglasses come in handy.
• Survival Mirror: UST Micro Mirror (see why this survival mirror is the best EDC option)
• Power Bank: Portable battery packs have come way down in cost and are very versatile.
• Whistle: SOL Slim Rescue Howler – Whistles make getting attention easy (see why this whistle is the best in a close race).
• Concealed Carry Handgun: Your preferred CCW that you are trained on (see ours here).
• CCW Holster: Alien Gear Concealed Carry Holsters – Get a holster in the profile you want from the best brand.
• Ammunition: PSA Ammo Deals – Get ammo for your CCW at huge discounts.
• Pepper Spray: Sabre 3-in-1 Pepper Spray – A great non-lethal weapon for personal protection. (See how this tested as the best pepper spray)
• Purification Tablets: A few Aquatabs (see why these are our favorite purification tablets for EDC)
• Water Filter: Sawyer Mini Water Filtration System (see why the Mini is the best-reviewed water filter)
• Water: If using an EDC Backpack, keep your steel water bottle full.
• Ration Bars: Millennium Bars (see why this is the best survival food bar)
• Camp Utensils: Stainless Hobo Cutlery Set
• Military Can Opener: P-51 Shelby Opener (see why this is the best portable can opener)
• Batteries: Tenergy Premium Pro Rechargeable Batteries – Stocking up on standard batteries is smart, but rechargeables are clutch for emergencies and survival. (See why these ones tested as the best rechargeable batteries for disasters and survival)
• EDC Sewing Kit: Singer 27pc Sewing Kit – Repairing textiles and other gear can extend their useful life. (See why this is our favorite EDC sewing kit)
• Paracord: TOUGH-GRID Paracord (See why this is our preferred paracord)
• Carabiner: 3″ Aluminum D-Ring
• Duct Tape: Gorilla Tape 35 Yard Roll (See why this is the best duct tape for survival)
• EDC Magnifying Glass: Credit Card Fresnel Lens – Start fires and read maps more easily. (See why this is our favorite EDC magnifying glass)
• Ferro Rod: Bayite Toggle Hole Ferro Rods (see why this is our favorite EDC ferro rod)
• Tinder/Fatwood: TinderQuik – start fires easier (check out the other best tinder and fatwood we tested)
• Waterproof Matches: UCO Stormproof Match Kit (see why these matches are the best)
• GPS Watch: Garmin Instinct 2– Pick your favorite GPS watch (see why this is our best-reviewed survival watch).
• USB Drive: Load a USB drive with your favorite survival manuals and maps of the area.
• Sun Screen: Your favorite brand with high SPF.
• Bug Spray: Repel 100 (see why science says this is the best repellent)
• Hand Sanitizer: During a pandemic, this is an essential EDC item.

Extra Supplies for your EDC Kit

Essentials and suggested additions have been covered, so this is the area will you will find everything else that could be useful to have on you every day. These extra supplies will help you in very specific situations, are less versatile, and may take up a lot of space. Even still, they could be the difference makers in an emergency- so it could pay off to consider adding these.

• EDC Pouch: PJ13 Leather Sheath – Carry more and keep it accessible with an EDC pouch.
• Scarf/Shemaugh: Free Soldier Shemagh – Stay covered in any environment (here are the best-reviewed shemaghs)
• Compressed Towels: Lightload Towels (see why these are the best EDC towels)
• Handwarmers: HotHands
• HAM Radio: Baofeng UV-5R5
• CB Radio: Uniden PRO401HH – HAM may get all the attention, but CB can be an alternative choice that doesn’t require a license.
• Pocket Sharpener: Fallkniven DC3 – Small but effective diamond sharpener (check out our other option in our sharpener roundup)
• Ammo Pouch: Accessible ammo can be a priority depending on your situation.
• Handcuff Key: Streamlight CuffMate
• EDC Fishing Kit: Readyman Fishing Card – Be ready to fish right from your wallet. (here are some other fishing kit options)
• Beef Jerky: Pick your favorite brand and flavor.
• Condiments: Make anything edible (like an MRE!) by dousing it in your favorite condiment. Check out our suggested condiment stockpile list.
• Multi-Vitamins: Make sure your diet completes all of your body’s nutrient requirements.
• Fishing/Hunting License: It’s not a bad idea to keep licenses on you.
• Compass: Brunton TruArc – Stay on track and navigate with maps. (see why this is the best survival compass)
• Local Maps: Print copies of local maps. Here’s how you download them for free.
• Ranger Beads: Matte Ranger Beads – Teach yourself to pace count with ranger beads. (see why these beat the other ranger beads)
• Playing Cards: Wilderness Survival Cards – Don’t forget the importance of entertainment and games. These cards are our favorite from our survival card review.
• Toothbrush: Travel Toothbrush
• Toothpaste: Colgate Travel Toothpaste
• Floss: Floss is versatile and surprisingly strong!
• Wet Wipes: Surviveware Biodegradable Wipes
• Zip Ties: Gardner Bender HD Zip Ties (See how these tested as the best survival zip ties)
• Oil Lubricant: Super Lube – There are over 2,000 uses for lubricant, and it’s a must-have for any tool kit.
• Garbage Bags: Glad FlexForcePlus– Use them for trash, or plenty of other survival uses with these unique double-walled flexible bags. (See why these are the best trash bags)
• Super Glue: Gorilla Super Glue Gel – For when you want something to stay and never move again. (see why this is the best super glue)
• Pencil Sharpener: Twin Sharpener– A great tool to create wood shavings for fire starting. Or sharpening pencils.

The Definitive Everyday Carry Checklist

A perfect EDC loadout doesn’t exist- what is right for you depends on your situation and risk tolerance. That said, we have as close to perfect of a starting point for you: our definitive EDC checklist.

Our checklist is available as both a pdf download and as a Google Sheet/Excel file where you can check off items yourself, and even add and subtract items from the checklist.

Everyday Carry Printable PDF Checklist

If you are looking for the simplest way to print and use the checklist above, download our printable PDF version. It is one page long on 8.5″ x 11″ paper if you reduce the margins to 0.5″. This EDC PDF makes gathering and tracking your EDC gear extremely easy. Once you open the every day carry PDF checklist in your browser, you can either print it directly or save it through your browser.

Everyday Carry Excel / Google Sheet Checklist

If you are looking for a comprehensive way to track your EDC loadout, open our Excel / Google Sheet version. The sheet is sharable, and you just need to copy it to your own Google Sheet account or download it to excel to edit it. We also keep links to our reviews for each category linked to simplify shopping for any equipment you may find yourself missing.

The Next Step

EDC adds tons of versatile functionality to your everyday life. You’ll find yourself using many of the tools you added very often. Now we’re going to pivot and move on to the items you won’t use often at all.

Specialized kits are designed for people in specific situations. Not everyone needs every type of specialized kit. Knowing your capabilities and threats will help you as we move on to the next section: Specialized Kits.

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Last Updated on October 11, 2024 by Tommy

Coyotes are great at digging holes, and there are many reasons that coyotes dig. The most common reason that coyotes use their digging talents is to create underground burrows where they raise their pups and hide from predators.

They also use their digging abilities to tear apart and hide food. Coyotes dig for food like rodents, worms, and foxes. Coyotes may also dig for carrion if given the opportunity. Digging is one of the most common ways that the coyote supports and protects itself.

You can prevent coyotes from invading your property by using galvanized wire. Install an underground barrier, which prevents coyotes from digging under your fencing. You should bury the galvanized wire at least five-and-a-half inches deep around the fence perimeter.

Do Coyotes Dig Holes, Dens, or Burrows?

Coyotes dig holes so they may sleep in dens and burrows. These wild canines are a common predator to many small animals and insects. However, they are also, themselves, prey to many larger animals like wolves and mountain lions.

Do Coyotes Dig Holes?

Coyotes dig holes for many purposes, such as safety, comfort, and finding food.

Digging is one of the many talents coyotes have that help them remain at the top of the food chain despite their small size. Coyotes use digging to steal burrows, dig up rodents, and hide from larger predators underground.

Do They Dig Their Own Dens And Burrows?

Coyotes dig their own dens and burrows. The average coyote den is only a few feet in size. But may range up to fifty feet, with several openings and rooms.

Although coyotes can dig their own burrows, they may also steal them from other animals too.

Will Coyotes Sometimes Take Over Dens From Other Animals?

It is common for coyotes to take over dens from other small animals like foxes, rabbits, and other animals. If the den they find is not big enough for them, the coyote will dig the burrow so they can fit easier.

Coyotes typically take dens from other medium-sized carnivores like skunks and raccoons. In the process, they either consume the animal or run them out of the territory.

How Do Coyotes Build Their Dens?

The most common way that coyotes build dens is by digging an underground burrow that goes at least one foot underground. They will also build dens by stealing dens from other animals and then digging them wider.

Coyotes also build dens by digging into fallen or rotted tree trunks. Rotted trunks are great temporary dens because they are easy to build, provide protection, and are great for escaping harsh weather.

How Deep Can Coyotes Dig?

Coyotes can dig very deep. There is no exact measurement available because they are always adapting to new behaviors. Since the coyote is a great digger, that means without preventative measures, the coyote can dig underneath unprotected fences very easily.

Do Coyotes Dig Tunnels?

Coyotes do not dig tunnels, but they will dig large burrows that may have several entrances. These dens with numerous entrances can easily be mistaken as tunnels because of how large they eventually become.

Do Coyotes Bury Their Food?

Coyotes sometimes bury their food. Burying their food allows the coyotes to hide their meal from larger predators like mountain lions and wolves while they are away. Then, they may return and eat the rest of their meal later.

Will a Coyote Dig Up Dead Animals?

A coyote will dig up dead animals if they smell them. One of the main parts of the coyote’s diet is carrion. Even if the coyote does not eat the dead animal, they take joy in rolling its body in the dead animal so it may enjoy the rotting smell.

Do Coyotes Dig For Grubs, Moles, Mice, or Other Things To Eat?

Coyotes are opportunistic hunters. Being an opportunistic hunter means that the coyote might dig in the ground for worms and grubs, if necessary.

Will A Coyote Dig Up Your Lawn or Flower Beds?

Coyotes do not typically dig up flower beds unless they are interested in what you have planted inside of the flower bed. In some cases, the opportunistic coyote might become interested in the smell of certain vegetables and become enticed to try the various plants in your homemade garden.

A coyote may also dig up your garden because of insects, small mammals, and rodents that live in your garden.

Did A Coyote Dig That Hole? What To Look For

Coyote holes are large, typically a foot wide. Pay attention to the exterior if you suspect a coyote dug the hole. Several visual indicators may signal that a coyote has dug the hole.

Visual indicators that a coyote dug the hole include:

• The presence of medium-sized canine footprints
• Dirt is flung in several directions and piles (like a dog)
• Feces resembling a domestic dog nearby the hole
• Skeletal remains of small animals, rodents, birds, etc.
• Large claw marks

Coyotes are visually similar to domestic dogs. If you notice feces, hair, or footprints that look similar to a canine, that could indicate you are in the territory of a coyote. The coyote has a similar digging technique as the domestic dog.

They are slightly sloppy and dig with their dirt in piles. If you notice dirt clumped in messy piles, this is an indication of a canine hole.

You may also choose to listen to your surroundings. If you hear howling at night near the hole, that is a common sign that a coyote owns that burrow.

Other Animals That Might Dig Up Your Lawn

Many animals might be digging up your lawn without you knowing. In fact, the presence of these animals on your lawn might attract coyotes. No matter what you try, unless you rid yourself of these small pests, coyotes will continue returning for this food source even after it begins to rot.

Common animals that dig up backyards include:

• Domestic dogs
• Badgers
• Skunks
• Rats or mice
• Groundhogs
• Opossum
• Moles
• Raccoons
• Gophers

If dirt is pushed from underground toward the surface, that indicates that a small animal is burrowing underground. Unlike coyotes, pushing dirt from under the ground is an indication that the animal lives underground.

Removing smaller animals from your yard can prevent coyotes from entering your yard. Most of these animals attract coyotes and may lead to a coyote infestation if you are not careful.

Can Coyotes Dig Under Fences? Or Get Into Chicken Coops?

Coyotes are known for sneaking into chicken coops to eat chickens and eggs. They have an easy time digging underneath fences as well as jumping over fences. To ensure that coyotes will not get into your chicken coop, you must make your chicken coop and your fence coyote safe.

How To Make A Barrier Coyote Proof

To make a barrier coyote-proof, you must extend your fence at least five-and-a-half feet underground. An underground fence prevents the coyote from digging under your fence. In most cases, coyotes will give up when their attempts are obstructed.

Good barriers to place underground are barbed wire, chicken wire, and galvanized wire. When a coyote feels this, it will no longer dig in that area. Farmers may also recommend surrounding fences with tripwires, if possible.

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The Chrysler/Dodge/Ram 5.7L and 6.4L HEMI engines power similar cars and trucks. This makes the comparison common as many wonder which engine is the best fit. Ultimately, 6.4 and 5.7 HEMI engines likely both have plenty to offer for most owners. With two great engine options it can be hard to pull the trigger but worry not. In this guide, we compare 6.4 vs 5.7 HEMI engine specs, reliability, performance, price, and more.

*5.7L and 6.4L HEMI engines are also known as the 345 HEMI and 392 HEMI, respectively. These numbers represent the engines displacement in cubic inches. We may refer to the engines by these names in this article.

Dodge HEMI Engine Specs

Below is a chart showing specs for the 5.7 vs 6.4 HEMI V8 engines:

Engine5.7 HEMI6.4 HEMIDisplacementConfigurationAspirationBlock MaterialHead MaterialValvetrainBore x StrokeCompressionHorsepowerTorque (lb-ft)

Specs for the 5.7 and 6.4 HEMI engine are pretty straight-forward. They share many things in common especially when looking at similar year engines. Anyway, both share their V8 HEMI pushrod design with 2 valves per cylinder. 345 HEMI and 392 HEMI engines also both use cast iron blocks with aluminum heads.

We’ll avoid spoiling all of the details regarding horsepower and torque for now. Of course, the 6.4 HEMI is the more capable engine. Its larger displacement and output give it the edge. There is more to look at regarding 5.7 vs 6.4 HEMI power and torque curves. This topic will come up in a few sections when we discuss performance.

*2009+ 5.7 HEMI engines went through a fairly big update. MDS and variable valve timing were two of the major updates. 6.4 HEMI engines use this technology, too. Point is – the older 345 HEMI’s are a bit different since they lack this tech.

What Cars Use These Engines?

6.4 vs 5.7 HEMI engines are in the following years and models:

5.7 HEMI (345 HEMI)6.4 HEMI (392 HEMI)

As shown above – the 5.7 HEMI is an engine option in a few models that do not offer the 6.4L engine. It’s also the older engine dating back to 2003 while the 6.4 HEMI didn’t come out until 2011. However, Chrysler did offer the 6.4L since 2007 as a crate engine with the name 392 HEMI.

Anyway, the common them is that the 5.7 is a base engine in many models with the R/T badge. On the other hand, 6.4 HEMI engines often receive the SRT8, SRT, and 392 Scat Pack designations.

5.7 vs 6.4 HEMI V8 Performance

Writing engine comparison guides can be challenging. Most engines are found in various models and years – as with these two HEMI engines. The following theme will apply to much of this article: it’s tough to get specific on a model and year basis. As such, we won’t be diving into 0-60, 1/4 mile times, or other specific performance factors.

There is still plenty to talk about when it comes to 6.4 vs 5.7 HEMI performance, though. The 6.4 HEMI generally offers an extra 75-100 horsepower over the 5.7 engine. Thanks to larger displacement the 392 is also good for an extra 60-80 lb-ft. Low-end torque is also about 70 lb-ft more than the 5.7 further widening the gap between the two. However, power and torque are a smaller difference on Ram trucks as the 392 truck version is tuned for better economy and towing.

There’s no replacement for displacement. Clearly, this saying holds true in the 5.7 vs 6.4 HEMI comparison. These engines share similar design and tech, and the larger displacement HEMI simply has the edge. That’s not to say the 5.7L V8 is a slouch by any means. Rather, if you’re looking for all-out performance or towing then the 6.4 HEMI is the clear pick.

Winner: 6.4L HEMI

Aftermarket Potential

Bear with a few duplicate comments here as it’s the same concept as above. Larger displacement takes the win when it comes to tuning, modding, and aftermarket performance potential. If power and performance are the end goal the Dodge 6.4L V8 is our pick.

We looked at similar mileage 2016 Dodge R/T Challengers with the 5.7 HEMI vs the 6.4 HEMI R/T Scat Pack. The difference in price ranges from about $5,000 to $10,000 with the 392 HEMI the more expensive option (as you likely guessed).

Buy a 345 HEMI, use the left over money on upgrades, and you can certainly end up with the more powerful engine. Now, it’s fair to point out some of the many counter arguments here. Add the same mods to a 6.4L V8 and it will be more powerful. Also, no matter how many upgrades you add to the 5.7 HEMI it will never be the 6.4L.

Aside from all of that – both of these engines have plenty of aftermarket support. It’s not hard to find what you’re looking for whether you choose the 345 or 392 engine. Don’t miss out on our best 5.7 HEMI upgrades and 6.4 HEMI upgrade guides if you’re looking for more info.

Winner: 6.4 HEMI

Dodge 6.4 vs 5.7 HEMI Reliability

Reliability is an easy subject for me to discuss. I wrote in-depth articles about reliability and common engine problems for each engine; the links are just below in the next section for those wanting to learn more. In this article we’ll just scrape the surface and discuss some of the basics.

The 6.4 and 5.7 HEMI both offer good reliability overall. As with any engine, they’re prone to their share of problems and failures. We think both engines deserve average to above average remarks for reliability. Don’t expect Honda or Toyota-like maintenance and repairs, though.

Keep in mind we’re talking about performance engines. Repairs tend to be a bit more expensive when problems do occur. Basic maintenance items can also be pricier.

Which one is better, though? It’s impossible to say for sure. It’s likely the 6.4 HEMI vs 5.7 HEMI will offer similar reliability. Most of it simply comes down to maintenance and luck of the draw. Some 6.4L engines hold up beyond 300,000 miles while others die much sooner. The same can be said for the Dodge 345 too.

Winner: Tie

Engine Problems

Issues between the two engines are pretty similar. Keep in mind – problems may appear worse or more common on the 5.7L V8. It’s the older and more popular engine on the road. As such, there’s more info out there for the 5.7 HEMI which can make problems seem more widespread. On the contrary, there are more high mileage 345’s out there.

Ultimately, both engines share many of the same common problems – such as the HEMI Multi-Displacement System (MDS). As stated previously, these engines offer similar reliability and which one is better often comes down to maintenance and some luck of the draw. Anyway, check out the below articles for more information on some common engine problems:

345 HEMI Engine Problems

392 HEMI Engine Problems

5.7 vs 6.4 Hemi Price

In the section about aftermarket performance we touched on 5.7 vs 6.4 HEMI price briefly. The price difference when looking at similar model, trim, age, mileage, etc remains around the $5,000 to $10,000 mark. It doesn’t always hold true since there can be other factors that affect price. Regardless, the 5.7 HEMI is generally the cheaper option.

Additionally, 5.7 HEMI engines have been around since 2003. There isn’t a way to make a fair comparison with the 6.4L V8 in this case. It just means the 5.7 is the budget friendly option even if it means buying an older car. The age and higher production also do the 345 HEMI favors when it comes to parts, replacement engines, so on.

Winner: 5.7 HEMI

345 vs 392 HEMI Fuel Economy/MPG

This is a pretty quick topic since it’s impossible to get extremely specific. 5.7 vs 6.4 HEMI fuel economy depends on many individual factors. Year, model, drivetrain, conditions, driving habit, etc all play major roles. That said, the 5.7 HEMI engine will deliver better fuel economy if all else is equal.

There are situations where the 6.4 HEMI actually provides better MPG than the 5.7L engine, though. Does the Dodge car or truck have MDS technology? Some Dodge 5.7 HEMI engines have this tech while others do not. A 392 equipped with MDS vs a 345 without MDS is a different story.

Nonetheless, we could go on all day debating which engine in which configuration provides better fuel economy. However, the point remains. The smaller 345 cubic inch engine should deliver better MPG – all else equal.

Winner: 5.7 HEMI

Towing Capacity

Vague concepts continue when it comes to 6.4 vs 5.7 HEMI towing capacity. There are too many configurations that affect towing as much or more than the specific engine. Anyway, you guessed it. Dodge 6.4 HEMI’s are the better option when it comes to towing.

Not only does it offer more power and torque, but it’s also better tuned for towing. Low-end torque is a big improvement on the 392 cubic inch engine. It’s generally going to offer the most towing capacity and pull similar weights with more ease. Although, the 5.7 V8 isn’t a slouch and may be more than enough for many.

Winner: 6.4 HEMI

Dodge 345 vs 392 HEMI Summary

Chrysler, Dodge, and Ram offer the 6.4L and 5.7L HEMI engines in many similar models. The engines also share similar design and technology. It makes for a common discussion and comparison between the two. Picking the right engine for you can also be complicated since both engines have plenty to offer.

The saying, “there’s no replacement for displacement” holds true here. Dodge 6.4 V8 HEMI engines simply offer more performance and towing vs the 5.7 HEMI. The 5.7 HEMI takes the win for price, parts availability, and fuel economy. They’re both pretty reliable engines, so that’s a wash.

In summary, if all-out performance or towing capacity is your goal then the 6.4 HEMI is likely the best choice. Those who want a great overall balance of performance, MPG, towing, and price will find joy in the 5.7L V8. Either way, we believe it’s hard to go wrong with the 345 or 392 HEMI engines.

What’s your experience with these engines? Are you considering one?

Leave a comment and let us know!

• On June 13, Oregon state officials killed a young black bear that they say had become “too habituated” with humans, according to the Statesman Journal.
• While many were outraged by the incident, killing black bears is actually quite common in the US. Many states allow annual hunts of the species, while “nuisance bears” are commonly killed in parks and residential areas.
• According to the Humane Society of the United States, humans can prevent interactions between people and bears (and therefore hunts) by minimizing the animals’ access to man-made food.
• Seasonal hunts of the species can also be dangerous, as they often ignore the actual problems occurring between black bears and humans.
• Visit INSIDER’s homepage for more stories.

When Oregon state officials killed a black bear that had become “too habituated” with humans on June 13, people across the nation expressed outrage. Many questioned why the animal wasn’t relocated, while others found irony in the fact that the animal was only deemed dangerous because humans made it so.

Still, the animal is not the first — and won’t be last — black bear to be killed in the US. According to Western Wildlife Outreach, 50,000 black bears are legally hunted in North America each year, while another unknown amount is illegally poached.

The practice is not met without controversy, of course, but it’s still widespread. Many people believe bear hunts are necessary to control populations and protect humans, though others feel the practice is inhumane and cruel.

In reality, however, the common killing of black bears does little but spread inaccurate messages about how humans can coexist with the species.

Black bears are the most commonly found bear in North America

Amongst brown bears and grizzlies, black bears are the most commonly found throughout North America, according to National Geographic. Defenders of Wildlife, a conservation organization, estimates the North American population of the species to be approximately 600,000. Half of that number is said to reside in the US.

The animals can live for up to 20 years old in the wild, according to National Geographic, and typically roam alone across vast territories. Male black bears are said to be especially solitary, while females become more protective when mothering cubs during their first two years of life.

It’s also a common misconception that black bears are naturally aggressive. According to the North American Bear Center, most black bears typically approach humans out of curiosity — not dominance — and can be scared away with a simple yell or clap.

Black bears also have no interest in eating humans, as they prefer roots, insects, and small mammals, according to National Geographic.

A black bear was recently killed in Oregon after it had become accustomed to humans who fed it

On June 13, Oregon state officials killed a young black bear that they said had become “too habituated” with humans, according to the Statesman Journal. The bear is said to have been between the ages of 2 and 3 years old, and was frequently fed by humans who would pose for selfies with the animal as it ate.

Days before its death, the animal was spotted on multiple occasions in close proximity to humans, according to the Statesman Journal. It was even seen “eating trail mix, sunflower seeds, and cracked corn” alongside other food that was intentionally left by humans.

Local police shared a photo of the bear on Twitter and asked residents to be vigilant and stay away from the area.

“Deputies are working to get this bear cub near Hagg Lake to go back into the woods… please stay away from the area near Boat Ramp A,” the tweet from Washington County Sheriff’s Office said.

Read more: A bear that was given food by tourists so it would pose for selfies was killed because it had become too used to humans, officials say

On June 14, Oregon state officials confirmed via Twitter that they had killed the bear. Rick Swart, a member of the Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife, told the Statesman Journal that the decision was influenced by past cases in which he said habituated bears were relocated and placed into situations that were more dangerous than where they came from.

People on social media were quick to criticize the decision and questioned why the animal wasn’t brought to a sanctuary.

Killing black bears is actually a common practice throughout the US

According to Western Wildlife Outreach, 50,000 black bears are legally hunted in North America each year. The species is also illegally poached by people who wish to take “their gall bladders, paws, claws, and genitalia for use in traditional Asian medicines,” according to Western Wildlife Outreach, though an exact number is unclear.

As for why the animals are hunted legally, three major factors often play a part. Officials in residential areas and parks, for example, will often kill individual “nuisance bears” that frequently interact with humans, as seen recently in Oregon.

In many other states, however, annual bear hunts are held to control the species’ population numbers, which are growing in most areas, according to the National Wildlife Federation.

Wide Open Spaces, a website about the outdoors, says these growing populations have led to increased problems between bears and humans, leading many people to see the bears as “large raccoons” that are more of an “annoyance” than “top predator.”

Some states also use annual bear hunts to help maintain the populations of other animals, according to Wide Open Spaces.

“Believe it or not, a hungry bear that is fresh out of hibernation will follow deer and elk hearts in hopes of scouting out an easy feast,” Wide Open Spaces reported in 2016. “In areas that foster large bear populations, this can put a real damper on other wildlife populations that need those areas to thrive.”

Not everyone agrees that annual bear hunts are effective

Doris Lin, the director of legal affairs for the Animal Protection League of New Jersey, told NJ 101.5 in 2016 that bear populations are rarely cause for concern.

“The bear population is not a problem,” Lin previously told NJ 101.5. “People don’t care how many bears there are. What they care about is bears getting into their garbage cans, into their bird feeders, and cooking grills.”

“That can only be controlled with non-lethal methods because no matter how many bears there are, they’re going to be attracted to those barbecue grills and garbage cans,” she continued.

Lin also argued that hunters are “just going to keep hunting and hunting because that’s the goal — it’s sport hunting, it’s a trophy hunt.”

Humans can easily prevent most interactions with ‘nuisance bears’

According to the Humane Society of the United States, “nuisance bears” are typically young males or mothers with cubs, and are created by humans who allow the animals to find man-made food “without getting frightened away.” Bears “become less fearful” of people “each time this happens,” which can often lead to conflicts between the two species.

Issues between bears and humans also become more likely during hyperphagia, which is described by the Humane Society of the United States as “a feeding frenzy in late summer and fall” during which bears “bulk up for hibernation” and consume up to 20,000 calories a day. But humans don’t have to fear these conflicts.

The Humane Society of the United States says that keeping black bears away from man-made food will prevent them from becoming accustomed to people. Specifically, making trash cans inaccessible, “enclosing” compost piles, and storing recyclables indoors can stop bears from making house visits.

The organization also suggests removing bird feeders during the summer months, and keeping barbecue grills free from food residue, as even the smallest traces of food can attract black bears.

Annual bear hunts can ignore the actual problems occurring between bears and humans

Black Bear populations are generally rising throughout the US, but that’s not why people are seeing more of them. According to Western Wildlife Outreach, the construction of “housing developments and roads” often push black bears out of their natural habitats, and therefore away from their natural food.

As a result, many of the animals “will frequent municipal garbage dumps and household garbage cans” in search of something to eat. Not only does this lead to bears being labeled as nuisances, but it can also cause an increase in interactions between bears and humans.

A 2015 report from National Geographic says 49,000 incidents occurred between humans and bears in Florida between 1990 and 2014. Many of these conflicts included “encounters at close range, property damage, and perceived safety hazards,” while 200 of the bears were killed after colliding with vehicles.

But because the state has little room to relocate the animals, most “nuisance bears” were killed after encountering humans. In 2015, Florida also hosted a bear hunt during which 295 black bears were killed in just two days, according to National Geographic’s report from the same year. But, according to the Humane Society of the United States, these hunts do little to solve the actual problem at hand: bears interacting with humans.

“Hunters, trappers and wildlife control agents often remove the wrong bears — they kill the individuals not involved in nuisance behaviors,” the Humane Society of the United States says on its website. “Bear-resistant trash cans, hazing programs and other humane methods work better to solve problems.”

Kitty Block, the president and CEO of the Humane Society of the United States, told INSIDER that humans need to become ‘bear aware’

While annual bear hunts are controversial, Kitty Block, the president and CEO of the Humane Society of the United States, feels that killing individual “nuisance bears” is also ineffective.

“States like Oregon too frequently kill bears unnecessarily who come into human-dominated areas looking for food to survive,” Block told INSIDER. “Frequently, the bears are mothers with dependent cubs. When good responses are not in place, states often wrongly try to manage bear-human conflicts by raising bear-hunting quotas, hitting bears doubly hard.”

Rather than killing “nuisance bears,” Block suggests that “non-lethal tactics” should be used.

“Bear biologists strongly suggest that state wildlife agencies employ an escalating suite of non-lethal tactics that include aversive conditioning and relocation in response to bears exhibiting problem behaviors,” Block said. “Those non-lethal deterrents might include the use of Karelian bear dogs, rubber bullets, chemical irritants, noise making pyrotechnics, or just banging pots.”

“In the instance of this young Oregon bear, he or she could have been placed in a rehabilitation facility or even relocated away from this area where people had been feeding him or her,” she continued. “There was no warrant for the state’s action in killing the animal without first exhausting non-lethal options.”

In a previous tweet, representatives for the Washington Country Sheriff’s Office said it wouldn’t have been possible to relocate the bear.

“This was a tough decision the wildlife experts at the Oregon Dept. of Fish & Wildlife had to make for the safety of everyone,” the Washington County Sheriff’s Office said on Twitter. “Relocation wasn’t an option in this case. Humans shouldn’t feed wild bears. It’s a very sad situation.”

Ultimately, Block believes that humans need to become “bear aware” before attempting to coexist with the species.

“People who live or seek recreation in bear country need to take steps to become ‘bear aware’ in order to prevent conflicts from occurring,” Block said. “Simple steps to prevent human-bear conflicts can include not feeding birds while bears are awake, cleaning up barbecue grills with ammonia, keeping a clean campsite or picnic space, and storing garbage containers appropriately at home and in the wild.”

• Read more:
• Tourists in Japan are flocking to ‘otter cafés,’ but there’s evidence that the animals are illegally taken from the wild and kept in small cages
• Tourists from all over the world go to see Morocco’s ‘goat trees,’ but there’s evidence that the animals are being tied against their will
• A man in Tennessee found a family of bears climbing through the windows of his car and hanging out inside
• A hungry bear got stuck on the back of a garbage truck after it climbed in looking for a snack

As the sportsmen and women in the state of Vermont looked to the beginning of a new decade in January 2010, none of them could imagine the event awaiting to unfold: a massive buck from Vermont’s past was about to overtake the top spot in the Vermont Big Game Trophy Club’s non-typical category. The groundwork was laid some 70 years prior in Vermont’s Northeast Kingdom by a man who was proud of his hunting heritage and the tradition of a family deer camp.

It was January 16, 2010, that I prepared to go to work at the 18th annual Yankee Sportsman’s Classic. I had decided that it would be an opportune time to bring in the rack from a buck that my great grandfather had harvested in Norton, Vermont, back in 1938. The timing couldn’t have been better, as I would be working at the Pelkey’s Archery booth directly across the aisle from the VBGTC. I planned to just drop it off in the morning and pick it up at the end of the day. This would be easy, or so I thought.

On my way into the facility I ran into Peter Porter, a measurer for the VBGTC. Porter’s eyes lit up like a kid at Christmas and he quickly stated, “I’m measuring this one!” It was 8:30 a.m. and he went right to work measuring and recording while I went back across the aisle to talk with show goers about the new 2010 bowhunting equipment. As I worked, I couldn’t help but notice there always seemed to be a group of onlookers around Porter and the rack. Interest from show participants was growing.

Towards the end of the measurement process Porter had determined that it was, at minimum, a Boone and Crockett-caliber buck. He came across the aisle to get me, and he had also called in Ron Boucher, a master measurer for the VBGTC, as well as an official measurer for the Boone and Crockett Club. As Boucher and Porter discreetly discussed the rack, at no point did either one of them mention any of the actual measurements from the big rack. Boucher examined the rack, reviewed Porter’s measurements, and then pulled me aside away from the crowd. “You’ve got something special here,” Boucher explained to me. “With your permission I’d like to take the rack to one of the side rooms away from all this commotion to measure it.” I willingly agreed to his request and as Boucher disappeared into the crowd with the rack, I couldn’t help thinking to myself, “Well, this is getting interesting. . . .”

AN UNLIKELY STATE RECORDWhile Boucher was away with the rack, I had a constant flow of people stopping by to ask if I had heard anything about the final score. I was amazed at all of the attention that this Vermont deer was getting. A couple of long hours later Boucher emerged with the rack, but still no news on the results. After another half hour or so of anxious wondering, I decided that I should head across the aisle and see what was going on. As I approached the VBGTC booth I was quickly greeted by Boucher with the words, “We’re close to being able to tell you, but we are going through the math one more time.”

As I went on my way, allowing the measurers more time, it had still never crossed my mind that my great grandfather could have harvested a potential Vermont state record. The day continued to tick by as I went about my business, occasionally pausing to wonder why I hadn’t heard anything from the VBGTC Measurers. It was nearly 2 p.m. – almost five and a half hours after Peter started measuring – when it happened: As I was talking to an outfitter about a potential future hunt, a friend came up to me and said, “The Foundation is looking for you!” My immediate response was, “The Foundation? What Foundation?” and he quickly explained that the guys from VBGTC were looking for me.

As my friend and I worked our way back through the crowd on our way to the booth, I quizzed him on what he knew. “They’re not telling anyone anything,” he said, “They are just asking to speak with you.” When I got to the booth Boucher pulled me aside and took the time to explain the entire process of what had just transpired, without any specific numbers. He then spoke the words that I will never forget: “I didn’t want anyone else to know until I talked to you, but your great grandfather’s buck is the new State of Vermont non-typical record. It scored 196 5/8.”

I was speechless. I was completely caught off guard, literally without words. I’m quite sure that I didn’t hear – and certainly can’t remember now – much of anything that people said to me after that point. I just kept thinking to myself, “Great grandpa shot a state-record buck hunting out of the family camp!”

THE MILK HOUSEThat day at the show people quickly began to call the deer “The Milk House Buck.” This stemmed from the fact that before the day the rack was entrusted to me it had been stored for years in an old milk house. I choose to call it “The Tice Buck” out of the respect I have for my great grandfather and the hunting tradition in our family. Deer hunting has always been important to the Tice family, a valued tradition and a great part of our family heritage. To think that an unassuming man participating in an annual ritual, a pursuit for which he contained such unrestrained passion, had yielded such a monumental trophy was simply overwhelming, and I couldn’t help but think about the man I’d heard so much about during my lifetime.

My great-grandfather, George Ira Tice, was born January 18, 1899. George was a lifelong resident of Holland, Vermont, a carpenter by trade, a devoted family man and the father of 10 children. George was also a fervent reader and relatives recall seeing George in the living room of his home with his foot up on the marble table reading for hours on end. Yet what people remember most about George is that he was a passionate outdoorsman, with an unquenchable thirst for hunting. He purchased his first hunting license in 1911 at the age of 12 and was so proud of that moment that he saved that license his entire life and is still in the family today.

George was not a man who was content sitting idly about, waiting for the next deer season. One of his more unique outdoor activities was “bee lining.” When I first heard the expression I was curious as to what this entailed. Bee lining is the practice of catching

wild honeybees and then following them back to their hive. Once the hive is found, it is marked and at the end of the summer the honey and the wax are harvested.

George was also an avid fisherman and enjoyed all types of fishing, his favorite style being brook fishing. The family camp is surrounded by pristine brooks that were then full of native Vermont brook trout. It’s safe to say that while George fished the brooks, he was always thinking about, scouting for and planning for the upcoming deer hunting season.

DEER CAMP TRADITIONThe Tice camp located in Norton, Vermont, started its useful life as a bunkhouse and office for logging crews. When the logging operation abandoned the building in the early 1900s, George turned the building into a hunting camp. In the mid 1940s he added a kitchen area to the camp and the camp has remained unchanged to this day. The Northeast Kingdom is a very rural portion of the state with large tracts of wooded land abundant with spruce and fir trees, cedar swamps, and high ridges of hardwood timber. Most hunters that call these woods home are trackers. The expansive woods and the low concentration of deer require an intimate knowledge of the woods and the deer’s habits. The ability to pick up a track and determine if it is a deer worth following is a crucial skill and a mark of pride.

George was so dedicated to his deer hunting that family members who had the privilege of knowing him cannot remember a time that he missed an entire hunting season at camp and can only recall twice when he left hunting camp before the season’s end. The first time was when he had sent his hunting boots back to L.L. Bean to get re-topped prior to deer season. The boots weren’t back when he left for camp, so part way through the season he had to leave to get his boots. The second time that he left hunting camp was for the birth of his youngest son, Earl.

George’s eldest son, Robert, recalls his father building a two-wheeled cart to pull supplies into camp, as getting to and from camp was not the easiest of chores. There was not always a graveled road that passed by the camp as there is today. Robert cannot remember a time that his father did not go to camp or into the woods without his favorite rifle, a Winchester Model 1907 .351 Self Loader. This is the very gun that George shot “The Tice Buck” with. Robert remembers that when George switched his cartridge loads over to smokeless powder that the gun began to malfunction and would no longer eject the casings. While the family did make an effort to get the rifle repaired, the attempt was unsuccessful and unfortunately this gun is no longer in the family.

FAMILY HEIRLOOMWhen George harvested the “The Tice Buck” in November of 1938 he was hunting with his friend and hunting partner, Burt Gray. Those who recall George telling the story of the hunt note that he always commented on how deep the snow was that year. George kept the buck’s rack in the living room on a wall between the wood stove and the entrance way and it remained on that wall for the remainder of George’s life, and after his death in 1965, his wife, Ethel, kept the rack in the very spot where George had hung it. When Ethel passed away in 1971, Robert and his wife, Joan, moved the rack to their house in Derby, Vermont. Robert and Joan kept the rack in their basement until lack of space and a repair project required that the rack be moved out of the basement and into the old milk house.

In 2005 while visiting Robert and Joan they bestowed on me one of the greatest honors of my life: they passed on the guardianship of the rack to me.

Over the past five years the rack has been a prominent fixture in my archery room. While working on bows I had often wondered what the rack would score but never could I imagine the recent events.

Robert, Joan, and I are all avid hunters and understand the importance of maintaining and preserving the antlers within the Tice family. Deer hunting is a longstanding tradition in our family and this trophy, a family heirloom, will be a constant reminder of the great hunters that came before us.

A VERMONT RECORDIn the end, the rack earned a gross score of 196 5/8 inches and a net score of 190 6/8 inches. The main beam lengths are 28 3/8 inches on the right and 27 4/8 inches on the left. It has an inside spread of 22 6/8 inches, an amazing outside spread of 29 0/8 inches, along with circumferences as high as 6 1/8 inches. This buck and my great-grandfather will now get the recognition that they both deserve. I have started the recording process for the Boone and Crockett Club, The Northeast Big Bucks Club, and the Vermont Big Game Trophy Club.

I can’t help but wonder how many hunters, in search of their own trophy buck, drove by this rack hanging in an old outbuilding next to a well-traveled state road? The fact that the rack remained unmarred hanging there in an outbuilding, that even the smallest of gnawing creatures might have acknowledged the majesty in the monarch’s crown, I think is remarkable, as is the idea that there were no rumors across the state of the rack and no one other than family and a few close friends even knew of its existence. When I think of these antlers in that little building, a Vermont State record, one word comes to mind: Astonishing!

The following appears in the May issue of Alaska Sporting Journal:

BY BRIAN WATKINS

The Grand Slam Ovis Club started recording what is known as the North American Slam back in the 1970s. To record the slam, one must harvest all 29 recognized North American big game species.

The 29 animals can be divided into 10 categories, known as the “Super 10.” The categories include moose, caribou, deer, bear, bison/musk ox, elk, sheep, mountain goat, pronghorn and mountain lion. This is often considered the “mini- slam,” as a hunter must actively hunt all categories of animals in North America.

It just so happens that Alaska is home to species representing eight of the 10 categories – black, brown, grizzly and polar bear; musk ox and bison; Yukon-Alaskan moose; Roosevelt and Rocky Mountain elk; Sitka blacktail deer; mountain goat; Dall sheep; and barren- ground and woodland caribou.

Alaska affords the opportunity to tag out on eight game categories, most of which can be taken with an over-the- counter tag, with a few variables involved. The bison is a draw-only hunt, and there is limited opportunity for registration tags for musk ox and elk. There are draw tags available for all species. The woodland caribou is currently unable to be hunted due to declining numbers.

CONVENIENT AND AFFORDABLE

With the opportunities Alaska has to offer, being a resident helps hunters get extremely close to the Super 10 without breaking the bank. My personal chase for the Super 10 didn’t come to fruition until 2014 when I harvested my first moose. Up to that point, I had harvested whitetail deer (Pennsylvania), Sitka blacktail, caribou, mountain goat, black bear and brown bear. I was suddenly halfway to the Super 10 without realizing it.

I set the goal to harvest the Super 10 by age 35. At the time I was 26. This would allow me to take a new species every other year.

My past stories in these pages have gone over all my hunting within Alaska, from road-based hunts to fly-outs and boat trips. Flying out is my favorite, but for cost-base hunters road hunts can be just as successful. I have harvested deer, sheep, goats, moose and caribou while boot hunting after driving to an area.

GOING SOUTH FOR SPEED GOATS

This past fall, with two animals to go, I headed south to the Lower 48 to complete the Super 10. My good friend Trevor Embry and I drew Montana pronghorn tags. I figured it would be an easy hunt. Boy, was I wrong. We were hunting public-land bucks, and they are skittish. Their eyesight is better than any other animal I’ve pursued. One of the guys hunting down there said their eyesight is like always having eight- power binoculars.

Our plan was to drive with onX maps and pick out public land, then glass and spot and stalk any animals on that land. But soon we figured out that if we saw a group of antelope, we had to maintain speed and pass them. Then, when out of sight, we could park and hike back to see if there were any bucks in the group. If you so much as let off the gas, the entire group would take off out of sight.

I snuck into 60 yards of herds multiple times, but as soon as I kneeled up for a shot, the group was off and running before I could even get my pins in sight.

Frustrations grew throughout the week as stalk after stalk was blown. Patience was the name of the game. After nearly 15 futile stalks, it came together with a buck chasing a doe right in front of me. I didn’t even need to stalk. We saw the group and were

getting into position as a buck ran directly past us and stopped broadside at 35 yards.

THE LION SLEEPS TONIGHT

With number 9 successful, it was time to plan number 10: mountain lion! I knew the most efficient way to hunt mountain lions was with dogs. I booked a trip to Nevada for this past spring and went with Canyons West Guide Service (canyonswest.com).

The hunting style was a blast. The guide had four-wheelers with tracks on them, and we would drive mountain roads looking to cut a set of lion tracks. It was blowing 40 to 50 mph gusts while we were there, so cutting tracks proved to be a bit of a challenge. On day one, we cut a set from the evening prior, but they were pretty blown out. We let the dogs loose and climbed up a mountain in pursuit. It seemed as though the dogs treed the cat, but by the time we got there the cat must have busted out and climbed up into the cliffs, where neither the dogs or us could get to.

The next day, we set out for a new area. We cut a fresh set of tracks and drove the machines into the valley where they went. As we sat there deciding if the tracks were from a cat big enough to chase, we saw four deer on the hillside.

We figured the cat was actively stalking the deer. As we sat and discussed things, I saw the cat creeping along about 600 yards away! It was awesome. We let the dogs out after the cat and they treed it back across from where we’d just driven through.

We skinned and quartered that lion. That afternoon we went further into the mountains. My dad was along with me and had a tag as well. We didn’t cut anything fresh, so we planned to head back for the day. As we did, we cut a set of tracks we had missed along the way out. We set the dogs out and after a half hour they had the cat treed about 20 yards away from where we had just ridden past. These cats are elusive. That hunt completed my Super 10!

NEXT UP: SUPER 10 BY BOW

In 2017, I joined the Alaskan Bowhunters Association and befriended a group of people who are predominately bowhunters. I added a new goal to harvest the Super 10 with a bow. Currently, I am sitting at nine of the 10 – with only an elk left on my to-do list. I have since joined the board for ABA and hunt predominately with a bow myself.

I’ll get that elk eventually. ASJ

Three days without water is the general rule of thumb for how long we can live without it. Given its importance, we should be well versed in the many methods for finding water in the wild.

The most obvious source is a body of water such as a river or lake. But what about another resource that is all around us? I am talking about trees.

Trees can contain a huge amount of water in the form of sap. This sap contains vitamins, minerals, sugar but is primarily made up of water. Since the tree is like one big filter, this sap is perfectly fine to drink. But the question then becomes how to get at it. For that, you will need a tree spile. To be fair, you do not have to carry a modern spile to tap a tree but it sure makes it easier.

What is a Tree Spile?

Chances are you may have seen one of these without even knowing it. Either in person or through TV I bet you have seen maple syrup collected from a tree.

To do this a hole is drilled in the tree, a spile is tapped in and a bucket is hung from the spile. A spile is simply a hollow metal tube that directs the sap into a bucket, rather than letting it run down the bark.

Choosing A Spile

There are a few different options when it comes to choosing this tool. There are different styles that can make the tapping process a bit easier. Some have an end that comes more to a point while others are more rounded. But I am more concerned about the materials they are made from.

Generally, they are made from aluminum, stainless steel, and plastic. Aluminum and plastics options are certainly going to be lighter in weight and cheaper to buy. I believe I even have seen some of the plastic spiles for under a dollar.

This is my personal opinion but I lean towards the stainless steel spiles. They are more expensive but they are less prone to breaking or bending like aluminum or plastic options. I am also not concerned with weight as even a stainless steel spile is quite light and I will only be carrying one. Again that is just my preference and I’m sure the other people have had just as much success with the other types.

Before Using a Spile

First, not all trees can or should be tapped. I am only familiar with tapping maples and birches but I do know there are other trees that can be tapped. If you are interested in trying this process I would recommend that you learn what trees can be tapped and if they are in your area.

Secondly, this method is somewhat seasonal as it works best in late winter to spring. This is when the tree is experiencing very cold nights, below freezing, and then above freezing daytime temperatures.

This temperature difference causes a higher sap flow or pressure within the tree. When a hole is created in the tree, the sap has a place to escape. When this is timed correctly, a gallon or more of sap can be collected in just a few hours.

How To Use A Tree Spile

Once a tree is selected, using a spile is quite easy. It is my recommendation that all of the tools and collection container be ready to go beforehand so as not to waste any sap. Here is a list of the tools you will need.

• Drill bit, knife, or some sort of spike for creating the hole in the side of the tree.
• Spile
• Collection container: This could be a cup, water bottle or anything that will catch and hold the sap
• Cordage: While cordage is not required it may be helpful to hold the collection container in place.
• Impact tool: This can be the butt of a knife, a hammer, or a sturdy branch but you will need something to tap the spile into the tree.

When all of these tools are collected and laid out in front of you, go ahead and follow the steps below.

Step One

Remove a small section of the bark being careful to remove just enough for the spile. Considering that the tree is giving you something it is always good to keep conservation in mind. Only take what you need in order to keep the tree as healthy as possible

Step Two

A hole needs to be drilled for the spile to be tapped into. Ideally, this would be done with a drill which most people do not carry in a pack, some do, but most do not. The tip of a knife will work or a spiked tomahawk.

Step Three

Clean out some of the loose debris from the hole and insert the spile angling the front end slightly downward. The spile does not need to be at an extreme angle, and in fact, it shouldn’t be. It only needs to provide enough of a slope that the sap will run down it. Now, use the butt of a knife handle or a piece of wood and tap the spile firmly into the hole.

The spile does not need to be hammered in but it should rest firmly enough in the hole that it can support the weight of a collection container.

Step Four

Hang a collection container from the spile or place it on the ground beneath it. If it is on the ground just make sure it will not tip over.

Step Five

After you are done tapping a tree it is best to pack the hole with clay or dirt. This will help prevent that area from becoming infected.

Video

Check out this great video demonstrating how to use a tree spile:

Final Words

Unless the sap is being stored in very cold conditions it should be consumed right away, within the first day or two at most, otherwise it can go “bad.”

But with one little tool and five easy steps, you now know how to collect water from a tree. Thanks for reading.

So, which to choose? Although a regged PCP may seem the ideal, unregged PCPs have been around for many years and are still popular. Indeed, much R&D has been undertaken in the PCP world, so the simple ‘knock-open’ valve of old is a far cry from what we see on today’s airgun hardware. The Slingshot hammer/valve set-up used in some unregulated Brocock and Daystate PCPs is one such example of how far unregged PCP design has evolved. Nevertheless, characteristics of unregged and regged systems are an important consideration when choosing a PCP for your specific shooting needs.

UNREGGED PCP Between the first and last shots of an unregged PCP’s charge of air – its ‘usable’ range – the output will follow a power curve, peaking somewhere around the mid-point of the curve. While the duration of the peak depends solely on the rifle’s inherent design, this part of the curve is referred to as the ‘sweet spot’. It’s where the shot-to-shot consistency – and so the rifle’s accuracy – will be at its best. The longer the sweet spot, the better. Ideally, that is where you want to be doing most of your shooting (and where you should zero your scope). Of course, you can shoot either side of the sweet spot, but you may well see a slight change in the pellets’ POI. At relatively close ranges this probably isn’t a problem, but it may shift your pellets outside acceptable limits for hunting or competitive target shooting at longer distances. Therefore, with any unregulated PCP, it pays to familiarise yourself with the characteristics of its power curve so that you can compensate for POI shift if required.

Although an unregged PCP lets you shoot throughout its usable pressure range (200 down to 100 BAR in this example), the best consistency, power and accuracy will be obtained by shooting in its ‘sweet spot’ (165 down to 120 BAR in this example) For example, your rifle may fill to 200 BAR and then, 150 shots later, need a refill at 100 BAR. Let’s assume its sweet spot spans 65 of those 150 shots. Then it would be worth noting on the rifle’s manometer what pressure range relates to that 65-shot section – perhaps between 165 and 120 BAR. If the number of shots you get per charge of air doesn’t bother you, you could choose to fill the rifle only to 165 BAR each time, and always refill it at 120 BAR. Yes, the trade-off is that you’d be reducing the rifle’s shot count, but in return, you’d be getting an output performance on a par with a regged PCP. Plus, by starting at lower pressures, charging the rifle from a manual pump will be less effort, and you’ll get longer periods between scuba tank fill-ups.

REGGED PCP Where an air regulator is fitted to a PCP, air release is far more controlled for the entirety of the rifle’s charge and there is, therefore, no power curve. Effectively, a regged PCP offers a sweet spot that extends from the first to the last shots of the usable shot range. In some cases, because a regulator deals with air delivery more efficiently, the rifle also returns more shots between fill-ups. Generally, a regulator system incorporates a secondary air chamber (the plenum chamber) which is designed to operate at a constant pressure. This means that as the rifle’s air pressure drops, the main firing valve always delivers an exactly-metered volume/pressure of air. The benefit of this is that the rifle’s power output is the same, no matter where it is within its charge cycle. That said, it is important not to let the pressure in the rifle’s main air reservoir drop below that of the regulator’s operating pressure, else the regulator effectively becomes redundant in the airflow chain. Many gunmakers now incorporate an additional gauge on their regged PCPs to specifically indicate the regulator status, like on the Brocock Commander PCP. The regulated Brocock Commander has two manometers – one for its HuMa regulator’s fixed pressure (top) and one to show the pressure status of the rifle’s main air reservoir The regulated Brocock Commander has two manometers – one for its HuMa regulator’s fixed pressure (top) and one to show the pressure status of the rifle’s main air reservoir While ‘managing’ the power curve of an unregged PCP isn’t exactly a headache for most shooters, there’s no denying that the fill-and-forget operation of a regged PCP is more straightforward. However, regulated PCPs cost more than their unregged counterparts, so you have to weigh up their worth in your particular scenario. FT, HFT and benchrest competition shooters, who seek ultimate precision in every aspect of their sport, may be able to justify the outlay for a regged PCP, but for everyday shooting/hunting assignments, a good quality, unregged PCP is equally as good if you have a full understanding of its power curve. Yet never dismiss the addition of a PCP regulator as ‘just another thing to go wrong. That may have been the case when air gunsmiths were experimenting with them many decades ago. But just like knock-open systems have evolved, the PCP regulator has also graduated. Specialist regulator manufacturers have risen to the forefront of the airgun industry, with many gunmakers incorporating their proven designs in their regged PCPs. Daystate, for instance, has partnered with the world-renowned HuMa-Air to develop a metering system in their regulated HR Huntsman Regal, Renegade HR and Wolverine R air rifles.