WHITETAIL DEER GLAND KNOWLEDGE

KNOW THE 8 GLANDS!

If you took a test right now on deer glands, how would you do? Do you know how many glands a whitetail deer has? Do you know where each gland is located? Do you know the function or purpose of each gland? If you are not sure how to answer any of these questions, you are not alone.

Over the last decade, I have been making mock scrapes and using only three glands lures. After learning more about some of the other glands, a whitetail uses to communicate with I have added more lures to my hunting arsenal. Let me help you understand the eight glands of a whitetail, their purpose and how BuckStik Products Utilizes and presents the three main communication glands creating the most powerful Communal Mock Scrape System on the Market.

GLANDS ON THE LEG

Interdigital Gland

Whitetail deer have an interdigital gland between their hooves on each foot. To see this gland, you will have to spread the deer’s hoof apart and look between them. Between the hoof, there is a small hole that allows the interdigital gland secretion to come out.

Each deer has a distinct odor. The interdigital gland allows deer to identify one another. Each time a deer takes a step, it releases a small amount of the gland secretion. Why is this so important?

The importance of the interdigital gland allows a mother to locate their fawns. Bucks can find a doe bed, check it, and follow a doe that might be in estrus. Non-receptive does will be on high alert when they smell the interdigital gland lure from a cruising buck. Deer know their home range well and like to know there are no intruders.

This is one of the three main glands BuckStik utilizes at the ground level during the season.

Metatarsal Gland

The metatarsal gland is located on the outside of a whitetail deer’s back legs. About five to six inches above the deer’s rear hooves is a white tuft of hair. Inside of the hair is an opening that is a duct for the metatarsal gland.

The metatarsal gland will give off an aggressive odor during the rut to warn other bucks in the area. Each deer will have a unique scent that it will give off. Bucks can become familiar with the individual odor of each other. The metatarsal gland seems to be larger in deer that live further north. Some biologists claim that deer are no longer using this gland. I am not sure what to think because I use the gland lure for hunting almost every year.

Tarsal Gland

A whitetail deer has two tarsal glands that are located inside the deer’s hind legs. You can find the tarsal glands where the deer’s back legs bend. The large tufted of lightly-colored hair sticks out and is strategically placed for the deer to create a unique scent specific to that deer.

Because of the unique odor hunters can sometimes smell a buck before they see him. The pungent odor is always most potent during the rut when the deer are making scrapes. When a buck is worked up, the hair on the tarsal glands can stand erect as a sign of aggression or dominance. Some deer biologists believe the tarsal gland scent can signal a doe that a buck is ready to breed.

GLANDS ON THE HEAD

Nasal Gland

The nasal glands are inside the deer’s nose. Biologists describe the glands as being shaped like almonds. The nasal glands are essential for deer. Hunters know deer rely heavily on their noses to help them detect odors in the air. But there is another vital purpose for the nasal gland.

The primary purpose of the nasal gland is to detect odors in the air to help deer survive. Deer are constantly checking the air and walking into the wind, so they know what is around them. A deer’s nose is far better than their eyes!

The second purpose of the nasal gland is two-fold. The gland lubricates the nasal passage, which allows deer to detect scents. The lubricant from the nasal gland can help deer leave their scent on licking branches.

Preorbital Gland

A deer has two preorbital glands that are just below the corner of their eyes. The preorbital gland has two different glands located in the tear duct. The sudoriferous and sebaceous glands are the glands inside of the duct. The preorbital glands are controlled by muscles and can open wider to emit an odor.

The primary purpose of the preorbital gland is a tear duct that helps lubricate the eyes. Deer will often put a licking branch in the corner of their eye. The preorbital gland will open and let the liquid from the gland cover the branch. Biologists believe this is a way that deer will self-mark areas. Older bucks often have preorbital glands that are more defined, which may be a sign of aggressive behavior towards other deer.

This is the primary gland that is used year round with the BuckStik/BuckBranch. A single spray elevated off the ground on the vine/ropes/leaves produce the greatest effect.

Forehead Gland

The forehead glands are located above the eyes and between the antlers of a buck. A doe also has forehead glands above their eyes and between their ears. The glands will start to produce an oily substance in September. As the rut moves on, the glands will secrete more oils. The secretion will cause the hair on the buck’s forehead to get darker and even reddish.

The purpose of the forehead glands on a buck is essential. As a deer marks a tree with the oily substance, it leaves some information for the other deer in the area. A deer can learn three things from a rub: First, a deer can determine the age of the deer, making the rub. Secondly, a rub can explain a deer’s social status. Finally, it can communicate to other deer its breeding status.

An older buck secretes more oils from his forehead glands. Thus, older deer will mark more trees. Some biologists believe that forehead gland secretion has a pheromone that can help a doe come into estrus.

Lastly, the Forehead gland completes the 3 gland communication system with the BuckStik. A single Spray on the forehead strip of the BuckStik will have your Bucks both young and old rubbing all day long.

Salivary Gland

The salivary gland is inside the mouth of the deer. The glands are on the roof of the deer’s mouth, in their cheeks, and gums. Deer use their salivary glands for more than just digesting food.

The primary purpose of these salivary glands is to produce saliva. The saliva will help a deer digest food it eats and is also vital for marking. Deer will deposit saliva on branches, vegetation, and trees to let other deer know they are in the area. When a deer takes the licking branch in its mouth, it will bite down with their teeth. Biting the branch allows the deer to deposit their scent to the licking branch.

NEWEST GLAND

Preputial Gland

This gland is located in the penal sheath of the buck. It has two primary purposes: lubrication for breeding, and it contains sperm for reproduction. The preputial gland is the newest gland that has been found and studied. Deer biologists believe it to be used for communication during breeding, but there is no hunting use at this time.

In Summary,

These eight glands are used daily in the whitetail world. Some are used more than others, and some are only used during certain times of the year. Deer use non-verbal communication to interact all of the time.

The BuckStik is a true pheromone communication system that ideally presents the Three Main Communication Glands at the ideal height for interaction. By presenting the Preorbital gland elevated in the vine/ropes, the forehead gland in the rubbing strip, and the interdigital gland a ground level it creates the ultimate communal mock scrape system.

Gland Presentation combined the the BuckStik’s ability to capture and hold deer DNA (Gland Secretions, hair) better than anything natural create an amazing communication hub that will last for years. Never again will you have to start over from scratch with a natural branch as the BuckStik lasts multiple seasons.

In the next post, I will give you some strategies on how to use each of the gland lures while hunting.

By Brian Kightlinger

Beretta M9A1 vs Beretta 92A1: Is One Better? Is There Even A Difference?

If you’re looking for a big double-stack but won’t have a darn thing to do with tactical Tupperware, two guns you might wind up considering are the Beretta 92A1 vs. M9A1. You might further ponder just what the heck the difference actually is…and if it’s worth paying for.

There are some differences, but they’re subtle; there’s nothing overwhelmingly different about one compared to the other. However, the differences that are there might add up for some people.

Beretta 92A1 Is Actually A Detuned 96

What you don’t know from looking at the two pistols is that the Beretta 92A1 is not an upgraded trim level of the Beretta 92FS, Beretta’s classic Wonder Nine. It’s actually a toned-down Beretta 96.

The Beretta 96 is a Beretta 92 that’s been overbuilt a bit in order to accommodate the .40 S&W round instead of 9mm Parabellum, the typical chambering. If you were to look at the internals of the slide, you’d see a buffer in the frame (it’ll run +P without issue) and a thicker nose in the 92A1 compared to the 92FS or the M9 family. Essentially, a Beretta 96A1 converted to 9mm.

Another difference from the standard 92FS is the 92A1 is railed, with a Picatinny rail machined into the dust cover. It has a fully rounded trigger guard in lieu of the classic Beretta trigger guard shape and comes with white 3-dot sights as standard, though you can swap them for night sights or fiber optics as both front and rear sights are dovetailed. The recoil spring, for those who get hung up on this aspect, is fully captured.

As for the measurements, you get 4.9 inches of falling-block barrel. The gun stands 5.4 inches tall, 8.5 inches long and 1.5 inches wide, weighing 33.3 ounces unloaded…but then again you knew this thing was a brick. One of the party pieces is that it accepts 17-round magazines, two more than the standard 92.

So…it’s big, it’s bulky, but it capacity is substantial, the gun is if anything overbuilt. This is a gun you can count on to save your bacon, anywhere and everywhere, all day every day, with a bit of care. MSRP is $775, which isn’t terrible considering this gun will probably last the rest of your life.

Beretta M9A1: Marine Corps Cooked Up A Classic

The Beretta M9A1 is an upgraded Beretta M9. The upgrade came about after the US Marine Corps found a number of shortcomings with the standard issue M9 and told Beretta what they’d like changed.

First was adding a mil-standard Picatinny rail, with a longitudinal channel cut through the middle of the rail. The magazine well is beveled, for more reliable reloads. The frontstrap and backstrap of the grips are checkered, for a better grip, and a thinner trigger guard for easier one-handed operation.

Sights are three dot, and the controls are ambidextrous decocking safety levers. The standard magazines are coated with physical vapor deposits (PVD) for more reliable operation in desert environments, though the M9A1 ships with 15-round boxes rather than 17. The M9A3, however, does come with the 17-round magazines. The recoil spring is not, however, fully captured.

The tale of the tape? The only differences are the M9A1 weighs 33.9 ounces, and lists for $750 MSRP. Otherwise, everything else is the same.

Beretta 92A1 vs M9A1: Do The Differences Matter That Much?

There are only a few differences between the Beretta 92A1 vs M9A1. First, the 92A1 is built a little thicker in places. The 92A1 has a rounded trigger guard, almost reminiscent of the 1911. The M9A1 has the classic Beretta trigger guard, albeit a touch thinner.

The rail on the 92A1 is different, in that it doesn’t have the longitudinal channel through the middle of the rail. The 92A1 lacks the beveled magazine well and ships with 17-round magazines. The M9A1, however, has more aggressive grip texturing. You can upgrade front and rear sights on the 92A1, but only the rear sights on the M9A1 without needing a machine shop.

Thing about the 92 platform is that it isn’t the best carry gun compared to most other popular pistols for that purpose like, say, a Glock 19 or M&P Shield. You can, of course, and some do…but most people wouldn’t. Really, a person gets a 92-platform pistol as a home defense gun, truck gun or something like that. Either gun will excel. They are accurate, they are reliable and plenty of people have and currently do bet their lives on them.

That said, the 92A1 has a bit more in terms of features. If you’re the sort that upgrades sights as a matter of course…it’s the gun for you, but carry holsters will be a little rarer because of the rounded trigger guard. Either way…you get an absolute hoss of a gun.

Have you shot these firearms? What did you like, and what didn’t you?Let us know in the comments below!

The military widely employs walkie-talkies, as seen in numerous action movies. It depicts an essential item or tool for all troops. In real life, walkie-talkies are extremely useful for communication during the war. In the old days, the military made two-way radios for soldiers in infantry squads to keep them in touch with their leaders. They made the radios from backpack radios that soldiers in the units carried. Likewise, people who use walkie-talkies, also called handheld transceivers (HT), can take them around.

Although walkie-talkies lack the range and flexibility of cell phones, they are handier to use during particular tasks. It is because it’s simple to use. For example, a radio set in within the range of the other will always be available. In this article, let’s look at the top tactical walkie-talkies available. But, first, find some of their leading characteristics to see how they rank in our military groups.

5 best Tactical Walkie-Talkies

#1 Motorola CP200

#2 Cobra CXY800

#3 Midland LXT600VP3

#4 Baofeng BF-F8HP

#5 Arcshell Rechargeable Long Range Two-Way Radios

How to Choose the best Walkie Talkie

Maintaining contact with others is critical, especially if you’re researching survival options or relocating. The best military-grade walkie-talkie makes communication with your team simple. In addition, because walkie-talkies are generally helpful, they can bring them with them at any time. As a result, before purchasing a walkie-talkie, it is critical to understand the essential features. As a result, consider the following factors when selecting a radio for your team.

Frequency

Understanding the distinctions between VHF and UHF two-way radio will help you decide which is best for you and the team. The FCC regulates the operating frequencies of all wireless communication devices, including two-way radios and cell phones. As a result, knowing what radio frequency your team requires is critical.

In addition, keep in mind that VHF waves are longer. As a result, a VHF-enabled two-way radio can cover greater distances while using less power. The popular UHF-enabled two-way radio, on the other hand, can penetrate obstructions in indoor environments due to its shorter wavelength.

Durability

Another factor to consider is the product’s durability. Of course, a durable walkie-talkie is essential, even for indoor use. However, if one intends to use a walkie-talkie primarily outside, ruggedized devices, unlike regular walkie-talkies, can usually withstand environmental variables such as extreme temperatures and the elements.

Battery life

The battery is crucial for this kind of device. Many two-way radios incorporate helpful AA or AAA batteries and accept disposable alkaline batteries or rechargeable nickel-metal hydride (NiMH) batteries. At the same time, some batteries are rechargeable in packs. Unfortunately, the bigger the radio’s power output, the faster it will drain your batteries.

Emergency Alert Feature

Emergencies are the scariest moments you will face, and knowing you have no one by your side is even more frightening. As a result, having a robust tactical radio can put your mind at ease. A long-distance walkie-talkie system with sound alarms, such as a weather band and emergency lighting, would benefit. Every emergency necessitates the use of a dependable communication device. If you have the best emergency two-way radio in your bag, it will save you many worries and prepare you for any severe crisis.

Channels

Channels are one of the most important factors to consider when deciding on the best long-distance walkie-talkie. A military walkie-talkie, for example, may have single or multiple channels. Switching channels allows you to avoid static and other interruptions, so having a multi-channel product is usually the best option. On the other hand, dealing with only one channel is frequently inefficient. So, it is always better to check this important feature before buying.

Price

The price of walkie-talkies can vary significantly, so it’s usually a good idea to shop around. However, it is always better to research through an online market or check out reviews from reliable resources before visiting some retail shops. Shopping at three or four different stores before committing to a purchase is usually the best way to find the perfect goods. Additionally, comparing and contrasting the features and costs of many goods will always result in the best military walkie-talkie at the lowest price.

Why should I use a Tactical Walkie Talkie?

Using a tactical walkie-talkie is robust and more reliable. One can depend on its features suitable for heavy day work. It must have the ability to use for an extended time without worries. Walkie-talkies can also save a life in an emergency crisis. Even if you are using it personally at home, it will benefit you and your family.

Further, communication equipment has undergone numerous developments which provide significant outcomes. For example, people used to communicate with pagers and professional walkie-talkies before the days of tweeting and texting.

Long-range Walkie-Talkies have become a necessity for industries due to changing consumer needs and households. In addition, the use of smartphones and cell phones grew because of the inconvenient licensing radio norms that used to come with walkie-talkies. However, today you can use many decent and solid walkie-talkies without a license.

Lastly, you will be able to communicate with multiple groups of individuals simultaneously as a result of this. Similarly, if you utilize a walkie-talkie in a challenging working environment, you should consider purchasing a waterproof walkie-talkie.

Conclusion – The 5 best Tactical Walkie-Talkies

When determining which walkie-talkie to buy, this is one of the most critical factors. For example, suppose you require a walkie-talkie for military people. In that case, you’ll most likely need a more robust and professional cellphone with longer battery life and range and a more significant number of channels. Because determining the number of users, nature, and location are also important. Many radios can provide great aesthetics but not enough to provide excellent service, especially during emergencies.

The five tactical walkie-talkies discussed in this article are dependable in many situations. Depending on the team size and industry, you may pick one of these best tactical radios. It may be better to choose the Arcshell Rechargeable Long Range Two-Way Radios, aside from it comes with six per pack. They are well-made, light, and have an excellent range while maintaining crystal-clear broadcast and receive. They must be really durable to use and for longevity.

If you’re a new cook making a Thanksgiving turkey for the first time, you might be puzzled by what’s inside the body cavity of your bird: strange little lumps of flesh, oddly shaped and, even odder, gift-wrapped in paper or plastic like something of value.

It’s the humble yet clever giblets, which we now attempt to explain. Read on to learn what your turkey did with these bits and pieces, and why you might find them valuable, as well.

Even if you end up throwing them out, you’ll learn all about turkey anatomy and poultry parts, which you can use as fodder for the inevitable small talk at your Thanksgiving table.

Of giblets and gizzards

First: giblets (pronounced “JIH-bluhts”) is the general term used to describe the “edible offal” of a fowl, typically organs such as the heart, liver, gizzard and sometimes the kidneys. The detached, deskinned turkey neck, which you’ll also find tucked inside the bird, is also often included in the catch-all term of giblets.

The heart, liver and neck, unsurprisingly, have a similar function in a bird as they do in a human. But the gizzard is something special. It’s part of the digestive system, a muscular food-grinding organ that helps a bird such as a turkey to digest seeds and insects. It’s also known as the gastric mill or hen’s teeth, because it does what teeth would do — if birds had teeth.

A more scientific name for the organ is the ventriculus. But almost everyone just calls it the gizzard, said Prof. Rob Porter, an avian expert at the University of Minnesota College of Veterinary Medicine.

All birds have gizzards, but so do crocodiles, alligators, earthworms, some fish and crustaceans and even dinosaurs, according to the “8 Things You Didn’t Know About Gizzards” page on the website for DeLong’s Gizzard Equipment, a poultry processing equipment company in Macon, Ga.

Gizzards and other giblet parts can be simmered with herbs and vegetables to make stock. At Thanksgiving, the stock and minced-up giblets can be mixed with turkey pan drippings, flour and cream to make giblet gravy. Or they can be used to make giblet dressing. The strong-tasting liver, however, is most often roasted rather than boiled before being made into gravy or stuffing.

A Midwestern delicacy

Sometimes these extra bird parts are a star attraction of their own.

You can find recipes for smothered turkey necks, Southern smoked turkey necks, slow cooker turkey necks and curried turkey necks. The New York Times once published a recipe for turkey necks “osso buco style,” braised slowly “until the flesh fell away from the bones in tender silky strands.”

“There’s a lot of muscle in that neck,” Porter said.

And fried chicken gizzards are a traditional Southern dish.

“In Uganda, Cameroon, and Nigeria, the gizzard is traditionally set aside for the oldest and most respected male at the table,” according to DeLong’s.

But Wikipedia asserts that pickled turkey gizzards are a delicacy particular to the Midwest.

It’s true, says Reinhard Liebner, owner of the Milwaukee-based Bay View Packing Co. Liebner said his company’s pickled turkey gizzards sell well in Minnesota, where they can be found in taverns and grocery stores. They’re especially popular among hunters, anglers, snowmobilers and football tailgaters, maybe because the jars of brine-soaked gizzards don’t need refrigeration, even months after opening.

“It’s convenient. It’s ready to eat,” Liebner said, and they taste like the dark meat of a turkey, except it’s richer, with “more organ flavor. It’s a delicacy,” he said.

Other giblet gems

• A turkey with giblets includes a neck, gizzard, heart and liver, but probably not the ones the turkey had during its life. Turkey companies process hundreds of thousands of birds at a time, so it’s pretty hard to keep straight whose neck was whose.
• If you put the turkey in the oven and forget to remove the giblets, it’s not necessarily a disaster. Butterball turkeys, for one, package giblets in an oven-safe paper bag just in case. Butterball and Jennie-O also sell “oven ready” or “ready-to-roast” giblet-free whole frozen turkeys that can go straight into the oven inside a cook-in bag.
• The word gizzard comes from a Middle English word “giser,” which evolved from the Latin word “gigeria,” meaning giblets.
• Over the centuries, “giblets” has been used as a slang term for certain parts of the human body. To “join giblets” could mean having sex, shacking up or forming a partnership, according to Green’s Dictionary of Slang. More recently, giblets has become slang for accessories that come with an electronic consumer product, according to the Urban Dictionary. And “gibbing” has become a gamer slang term derived from giblets that means to vanquish a digital foe in a way that scatters their body parts.
• In an episode of “The Beverly Hillbillies,” Jethro starts a restaurant called the Happy Gizzard. And gizzard was a handy rhyming word for E.Y. “Yip” Harburg, the lyricist for the music for “The Wizard of Oz.” If, as Dorothy sings, “the Wizard is a wizard who will serve,” then the Cowardly Lion will become “brave as a blizzard,” the Tin Man will be as “gentle as a lizard,” and the Scarecrow will be “clever as a gizzard.”
• Turkey neck has also become a term for an undesirable human condition: the wrinkled, sagging skin on a person’s neck as one gets older. If you’re developing a turkey neck, some suggested solutions include neck and facial exercises, cosmetic creams, Botox, plastic surgery — or wearing turtlenecks.

My personal history with Hoyt stretches back to the mid-’90s when machined aluminum risers, fast flight cables, and aggressive dual cams were cutting edge. The first Hoyt I owned was long between the axles with recurved split limbs and a very short riser. That particular bow was used to kill my first spot & stalk spring black bear and a solo mountain goat, both very memorable hunts.

Hoyt Ventum 33

Fast forward to 2021; with a fondness of Hoyt etched in my memory, the new models were released. Of all the new models I was most eager to test the 33-inch Ventum. New for this year is the HBX cam which is a major departure from Hoyt’s Cam & a Half eccentrics of the past. The new cam system is a three-track binary eccentric which uses two different modules to cover the spectrum of draw lengths. The tuning of these cams is completely different utilizing shim spacers on the axel vs. a split yoke to achieve level nock travel.

Specs and Set-up

• The Hoyt Ventum 33 is the longer brother to the Ventum 30 with a 33.125” axle-to-axle length and a 6.375” brace height.
• It is available in draw lengths of 26-31 inches and draw weights of 30-80 pounds.
• The draw weight of my test Ventum 33 is 70 pounds and the draw length is 27″ (module 2 position “I”).
• The color is Wilderness Green paired with Optifade Subalpine. The string and cables are factory with a Tru Peep installed and a short d-loop tied 1/16 of an inch nock high.
• The factory cam spacers were left in the baseline position while the initial break-in shots settled the strings. Switching between the 80 and 85 percent let-off, I came to prefer the 85 percent setting due to the slightly longer valley it provides.

A QAD Integrate MX rest was mounted to the rear dovetail mount and centered at 11/16 of an inch from the riser. I utilized the picatinny mount that comes with the bow and attached an Axcel Accu-Hunter 5-pin sight. This allows mounting a Tight Spot quiver closer to the riser which balances well with an overall lower profile.

It’s a sharp-looking bow that comes in at 5.3 pounds with all the factory dampers and the included 2″ Short Stop stabilizer. Fully rigged with a 10” Shrewd stabilizer and a quiver full of arrows, it weighs 7.8 pounds.

Tuning and Performance

After the initial settling of the strings, the bow paper tuned to a perfect bullet hole within a few shots. I then proceeded to bare shaft tune at close range and worked out to longer yardage. I ended up moving the rest 1/32 of an inch outward: Both fletched and bare shafts were easily grouping at 60 yards.

To note, I’ve read where others on the Rokslide forum needed to move spacers around to achieve proper tune at center shot, but I had no such need. There is a tuning chart provided on Hoyt’s website here that shows different spacer configurations based on arrow flight feedback.

I had zero issues tuning and setting it up and it has not moved at all from the initial tune. There was no need to shim anything and had perfect holes in paper and the same result with bare shaft tuning. I’m still using the factory stings and they haven’t budged. I’ll be ordering a second set to shoot and tune and use the factory as a backup.

Hoyt Ventum 33 Speeds

I measured arrow speeds after the initial tune and was pleased with the results of my test arrows. Throughout this review (6 months) there has not been any change in speed nor a change in cam synchronization. The strings and cables have not seen any serving separation or premature wear on any of the contact points of the bow. The bow has been extremely accurate and forgiving. The extra heft seems to mute out fine movements of the bow arm and allows for a steady hold at full draw.

HBX Cam vs. ZT Pro Cam & a Half

My previous Hoyt hunting setup was an RX-3 Ultra with the ZT Pro cams set at 27 inches and 70-pound draw weight. Comparing the two, the new HBX cams seem to roll over smoother in the draw cycle due to the shape and size of the eccentric. Yet there seems to be less valley in the HBX but subsequently more speed. My test bow was 10 feet per second faster than the RX-3 and considerably quieter. The back wall is firm with the hefty mass of the bow. It’s rock-steady, and there is very little vibration at the shot.

Integrated Components

The QAD rests I’ve used in the past have not been integrated like this UltraRest version made for Hoyt. After 6 months of use, my thoughts are positive. It is really easy to install and it locks down solid. It has not moved or failed after many trips through the mountains this spring.

Picatinny Axcel Sight

The Axcel sight in the picatinny configuration was also able to withstand the rigors of mountain hunting. When the mounting option was first announced, I was curious to see how it would function in the real world. The sight is super simple to secure to the picatinny mount and has not moved or loosened. The side-to-side balance shift is really subtle but the shift forward has been noticeable. I added a little extra weight to my back bar to compensate. The Tight Spot can now be mounted closer to the riser. Which I prefer as it changes the center of gravity in a positive direction. Overall, the picatinny rail sight and the integrated rest make for a very clean and balanced setup.

Final Thoughts

The Hoyt Ventum 33 is a solid choice for a western hunting bow. The speed is zippy even with my short draw length and is incredibly quiet. At the shot, hand shock is non-existent due to a combination of the smooth cams and added vibration reduction components. The bow is on the heavy side when compared side-to-side with my RX-3. But, the extra heft aids in stability at full draw and follow-through after the shot. Its heavier weight hasn’t been noticeable in the field. While packing it in some rough country this spring I’ve not felt encumbered by it.

The integrated components don’t amount to much weight savings but do change how the weight is distributed on the bow. I really like having the different options and will definitely keep the sight and rest mounted on their integrated rails for the upcoming fall season.

Overall the Hoyt Ventum 33 is an accurate and well-balanced bow that suits my style of western big game hunting. A shorter version is available for those who prefer something in the 30” axle length. Check them out at your nearest Hoyt dealer to see what you prefer and learn more here.

Comment on this review or ask Josh questions here.

Check out Tony’s review of the Hoyt Carbon RX-5 here.

If you’ve ever wanted to try a lion’s mane mushroom you’d be hard-pressed to find one at the local supermarket. Yet, these unusual mushrooms are tasty and healthy, and there are numerous health benefits from consuming them.

If you’d like to learn how to grow these mushrooms yourself, then keep on reading. We’re covering their characteristics, health benefits, storage, and step-by-step instructions for cultivating lion’s mane mushrooms indoors and on logs.

What is a Lion’s Mane Mushroom?

The lion’s mane mushroom (also known as Hericium Erinaceus) is a white, pom-pom-like fungus that resembles the mane of a lion.

Individual mushrooms can grow to be fairly big, weighing as much as half a kilogramme. The spines, or “teeth,” begin short but become longer with age. The mushroom is spongy and semi-hollow at times.

These unusual-looking mushrooms are found on rotting hardwood trees and logs throughout the northern hemisphere and are native to Asia, Europe, and North America.

Lion’s mane mushrooms are edible as well as medicinal, with a variety of potential health benefits. These potential benefits include protection against dementia, protection against stomach ulcers, reduced risk of heart disease, diabetes symptom management, and many more.

It’s pretty much impossible to buy fresh lion’s mane mushrooms in the UK due to the fact that it’s a relatively unknown species. Your best bet is to find a specialist farmer, or, the easier option, is to grow this species of mushroom yourself.

Is Lion’s Mane Mushroom Easy to Grow?

Lion’s mane is a reasonably simple mushroom to cultivate, but it can be a challenge for novices because the mycelium takes longer to develop than other mushrooms, creating an increased risk of contamination. It can also be challenging for first time growers to determine whether the lion’s mane is fully colonised and ready to produce fruit.

If you’re new to mushroom growing, we suggest you should get some hands-on experience first. The easiest way to practise mushroom cultivation is by growing your own! Oyster mushrooms are a great place to start. Alternatively, you can use a Lion’s Mane Mushroom Growing Kit if you’re keen to try lion’s mane at home without the hassle of growing your own from scratch!

Growing in bags vs on logs

The two most popular methods of growing lion’s mane mushrooms are in bags or on logs. They both have their positives and negatives, but the answer to the best way to grow lion’s mane mushrooms is dependent on your experience and the harvest time you are hoping for.

If you’re growing lion’s mane on logs, you should expect to harvest your first batch in one to two years following inoculation. You can harvest lion’s mane mushrooms from a single log for up to six years after they begin to grow. It’s important to note growing mushrooms on logs generally requires more effort and resources to set up, but are relatively easy to maintain during incubation.

It takes far less time to grow lion’s mane indoors in a bag or container. The lion’s mane mushroom can be harvested in about 6 to 8 weeks after inoculating your substrate. Growing in bags is debatably the easier option if you are just starting out, but if you already have some growing experience under your belt then consider when you want your mushrooms to be harvestable.

It’s worth noting that bags can be used to grow mushrooms indoors, whereas logs have to be grown outdoors.

How to Grow Lion’s Mane Mushrooms Indoors

Below we’ve put together a step-by-step tutorial to help you grow lion’s mane mushrooms in a bag or container.

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Step 1. Preparing Your Supplies & Growing Space

It’s essential that you keep your work environment clean and sterile during the inoculation procedure. When you have spent time preparing your mushrooms, the last thing you want to do is introduce competitive bacteria into your substrate that could outcompete your spawn. Before you start, wipe everything down with isopropyl alcohol or another cleaning solution.

After you have cleaned your workplace, you need to assemble all the equipment and supplies needed.

There are several ways you can choose to grow Lion’s Mane mushrooms but growers typically opt to begin the process of substrate preparation, inoculation and incubation within a mushroom growing bag. This makes life a lot easier when handling aspects like sterilisation and pasteurisation too.

From there, it is really a preference in growing technique. Some growers prefer to keep their Lion’s Mane growing from the bag, some prefer to use jars, others choose fruiting chambers. The key considerations are ensuring that the substrate has successfully been inoculated and colonised and that the eventual growing environment has sufficient humidity.

Some supplies we recommend

• A Pressure cooker
• Kitchen Scales
• Measuring cups
• Lion’s mane grain spawn

• Mushroom growing bags or buckets
• Hardwood pellets
• Soy Hulls

Step 2. Preparing Your Mushroom Substrate

Preparing your mushroom substrate correctly is a critical step in the cultivation of any mushroom. It is where most new growers experience problems, as this is where bacteria or competing organisms are first introduced. This is especially true in the case of Lion’s mane mushrooms as the fungus takes much longer to develop than other commonly cultivated mushrooms. As a result, there is a often a much greater window of time for contamination to occur.

There are several types of substrate you could opt for when growing Lion’s Mane mushrooms. In this guide, we’ll be focusing on hardwood fuel pellets (HWFP) but you can learn about more types of substrates here.

A good substrate should provide the sustenance your fungi need to thrive and produce delicious mushrooms. It provides all of the nutrients, nitrates and hydration, so it is key you start on the right foot. Supplemented substrates are usually preferred by experienced growers when working with Lion’s Mane.

Whilst some prefer to use bran or oat supplements, one of our favourite and most recommended substrates for growing Lion’s Mane is Master’s Mix.

What is Master’s Mix?

Master’s Mix is a blend between hardwood pellets and soy hulls, which is ideal for Lion’s Mane as it naturally occurs on hardwood trees and the added soy provides an excellent source for the nitrogen and protein for the fungi.

It also provides a structure that is well suited for mycelium growth, allowing for fast colonisation and greater yield sizes.

Whilst sterilization isn’t strictly necessary for hardwood pellets, it is best practice that you do so to maximise your chances of success. Plus, if you do opt for a mixed blend like Master’s mix, you will most certainly need to sterilize your substrate mix.

We have a detailed guide to Master’s Mix in the works, but following the steps below will give you everything you need to know to get started.

Making your Master’s Mix Blend

To produce a simple master’s mix, prepare even amounts of hardwood fuel pellets and soy hulls. The recommended hydration level for a Masters’ Mix is 60% but if you’re using hardwood pellets, you will need to allow for additional water to redhyrate the pellets sufficiently.

Below are the supplies and weights need to produce a 2.3kg substrate:

• 450g hardwood pellets
• 450g soy hulls
• 1.4L clean water
• A growing container (we recommend using a mushroom growing bag)
• A pair of weight scales
• A pressure cooker (Optional)
• Latex gloves (Optional)

The first thing you will need to do is to mix your hardwood pellets and soy hulls together in a sterilised container or bag. Next, you will need to add the clean water to the mix. Allow this to sit for 5-10 minutes (or as long as required) to rehydrate the pellets into a sawdust-like mix. If you’re using a mushroom growing bag, it is easiest to hydrate your pellets and mix the supplies directly in the bag.

Sterlising your Substrate Mix

The next step is to sterilise your substrate mixture. There are several ways to sterilise and pastuerise a substrate, but it is recommend that you use a pressure cooker to do so.

If your mix has now hydrated, simply fold and seal the growing bag and place it into your pressure cooker. It is recommended to leave the mix in the cooker for at least two hours at a pressure of 15PSI.

Once your substrate mix has been in the cooker for 2 or more hours, you will need to carefully remove the growing bag and allow it to completely cool in a sanitary environment.

When the substrate has fully cooled, it is time to begin the inoculation process.

Step 3. Inoculating Your Mushroom Substrate

Before starting the inoculation process, use soap and water to thoroughly clean your hands before handling any of your growing materials. You should also ensure that the working environment has been sanitised prior to unsealing the growing bag.

We also recommend continuing this next step in a controlled decontaminated space, such as a flow hood or a DIY container (such as a sterilised clear box with embedded gloves).

For a 2.3kg substrate, we would recommend using 200 grams of grain spawn mix. We stock grain spawn in sizes from 600g to 3kg, so you will have plenty to work with.

If using grain spawn, carefully break apart the spawn and mix throughout the substrate mix, ensuring even coverage and layering.

Once your lion’s mane spawn has been mixed into the substrate, seal your growing bag or cover your container.

A better way to do this is to open the bag following pressure cooking, rapidly add the spawn, seal it immediately, and then mix the material within the sealed bag. This is ideally done in front of a flow hood and reduces exposure time.

Step 4. Incubating Your Lion’s Mane Mushrooms

Now that you’ve prepared and inoculated your substrate, it’s time to let the fungi do its thing.

Place your growing bag in a dark space away from direct sunlight and store at room temperature (18-25°C), although consistently at 23°C is ideal.

How long does it take for Lion’s Mane mushrooms to colonise?

It can take between 14-21 days for your Lion’s Mane to colonise the substrate mix but this could take longer depending on a number of factors, such as the amount of spawn used, the substrate hydration level, and external storage conditions and the quality of the spawn.

How to tell if Lion’s Mane is fully colonised

When compared with other commonly cultivated mushrooms, Lion’s Mane mushroom mycelium threads (known as hyphae) are somewhat finer in appearance and can make it harder to determine whether it has fully colonised the substrate.

Ideally, you will see the substrate mix even coated in a white mycelium, but other ways of testing include feeling the mix to test whether it has become firmer to the touch.

Step 5. How to Help Your Lion’s Mane To Fruit

While your Lion’s Mane is perfectly capable of fruiting their mushrooms when ready, it can be helpful to provide a helping hand by creating conditions that encourage a flush to appear.

For Lion’s Mane, this can be achieved by increasing the humidity of the growing environment. Whilst keeping the growing bag in a shady area, try misting the substrate several times a day with water.

You can also place your growing bag into a plastic liner and spray the inside lining to create a contained humid environment. Pro tip: if you’re not able to mist your substrate every day, place wet tissue paper or cloth inside of the outer lining to maintain humidity.

We suggest cutting a small (5 cm) hole on the side of your bag rather than the top. If you cut the top of the bag or open the entire top, the substrate dries out faster and you get a lot of smaller mushrooms instead of a few large groupings.

Only one hole in your bag is required for every 750 grams of substrate. For most bags, one hole is sufficient. However, if you have a really large bag, you may want to cut more holes.

If your bag has any extra room at the top, we recommend folding it down and taping it in place. Mushrooms may attempt to grow from the top if this is not done.

How to Grow Lion’s Mane Mushrooms on Logs

Growing lion’s mane on logs is a low-cost approach to ensure a consistent, long-term supply of fresh lion’s mane.

Everything you need to know about growing lion’s mane on logs is included in the step-by-step guide below. For a more in-depth guide on growing on logs, check out our full article on the topic.

What you’ll need:

• Lion’s mane mushroom plug spawn
• Comprising dowels, wax and wax applicator
• Hardwood logs, which are 2-6 weeks old
• Hammer
• Drill with 8mm bit (depending on the size of dowels)
• Gas cooker (if not near to a domestic stove)
• Pan for heating the wax

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Step 1. Preparing Your Supplies & Growing Space

As mentioned above, it’s essential to keep your growing space clean to avoid contamination of your spawn.

When growing lion’s mane mushrooms, always use hardwood logs, we suggest beech or oak logs.

It’s vital to choose healthy trees while selecting logs and to never use logs older than 6 weeks. Any tree with rotting wood or symptoms of infection faces an increased risk of competition with pre-existing fungus in the logs.

Start by drilling a row of 15 cm holes down the length of your log. This is deep enough that when you hammer your plug into the wood, it will leave a little space underneath it, giving an ideal environment for the mycelium to thrive.

After you’ve finished the first row of holes, place the following row of holes in a staggered pattern. Begin the next row of holes 6 cm apart from the first, staggering the rows to create a diamond or checkerboard pattern.

Step 2. Inoculating Your Logs

Getting your plug spawn dowels into the hole should now be a breeze. All you have to do now is gently tap them in with a hammer to secure them.

Your plugs should be flush with the log’s timber and just beneath the bark’s surface. You’ll be able to plug the hole with wax this way.

This is an important step in keeping your mycelium safe and uninfected. The most common form of wax used to fill holes is soy wax; however, other waxes such as cheese or beeswax can also be utilised.

Once the wax has melted, use a wax applicator to apply it to your holes. You can buy them inexpensively or make your own with a cotton ball or rag, or a small brush.

Step 3. Incubating Your Lion’s Mane Mushrooms

Once you have inserted the spawn into your logs and sealed them with wax, your logs are pretty much ready to be left for incubation.

There are several options for storing logs during incubation. Shaded areas like beneath a tree or the side of a house are ideal places to keep your logs.

The most important thing is to keep your logs in an area with good air circulation and a high humidity level.

In dry weather, water your logs with a hose once or twice a week for 10 minutes to maintain the proper moisture level. If they dry out, your mycelium will die.

Step 4. How to Help Your Lion’s Mane To Fruit

You can speed up the growth of your mushrooms by initiating or ‘shocking’ your logs. This can be accomplished by soaking them in cold water for 12-24 hours. This can be done in a stream or pond, a kiddie pool, or even bathtubs or boats!

To ensure that the mycelium has colonised the majority of the log, wait at least a year before shocking it. Instead of waiting two or three years for mushrooms to grow normally, shock is a great technique to accelerate their growth.

When should you harvest Lion’s Mane Mushroom?

It won’t be long before you can harvest and enjoy your lion’s mane mushrooms as they begin to fruit. You might be eating excellent, fresh lion’s mane mushrooms in as little as 4 weeks.

A Lion’s mane mushroom has reached maturity when it stops expanding in diameter and its spines start to lengthen and thicken.

Harvest them before they turn pink or brown for the best taste. To achieve various mane textures, harvest the lion’s mane at various stages of growth and maturity. Younger lion’s mane mushrooms are firmer than their older counterparts.

Cut the “ball” off close to the base of the Lion’s Mane using a sharp knife, being careful not to injure the fruit. If handled gently to avoid bruising, lion’s mane will stay considerably longer in the fridge.

How should Lion’s Mushroom be stored?

Fresh lion’s mane keeps for about a week in the refrigerator. If you have more lion’s mane mushrooms than you can use in a week, dry them out in a food dehydrator or oven to store them.

Fresh vs Dried

Keep them refrigerated and away from water if you’re storing them fresh. Keep in mind that they will only survive a few days in the fridge.

If you want to keep the mushrooms fresh, put them in a paper bag that isn’t too full. They must be able to breathe and keep away from direct dampness; otherwise, they will absorb it like sponges.

If you discover any dark or soft places on a mushroom, or if the mushroom feels squishy and slimy, it’s a dead giveaway that it’s going bad.

Consider drying your mushrooms for a longer-term approach to storing them.

You must finely slice your mushrooms after properly washing them. After that, you set them on your tray and dehydrate them. They’ll be there for the next 6-8 hours. Once completely dry and crisp, seal in a jar and store until ready to eat.

Although this is a straightforward method for long-term storage, it can be time-consuming.

Lion’s Mane Mushroom FAQs

Are Lion’s Mane Good for You?

Lion’s mane mushrooms are a type of medicinal mushroom with a variety of health advantages.

According to research, lion’s mane mushrooms can strengthen the immune system which protects the body from pathogens that enter through the nose and mouth.

Are Lion’s Mane’s Mushrooms Legal?

Lion’s mane mushrooms are perfectly legal. It’s only that fresh lion’s mane is hard to come by, and you’re unlikely to find them at your local supermarket.

What substrates does Lion’s Mane grow best on?

The following are the best types of substrate for growing your Lion’s Mane:

• Hardwood logs (I.e. Ash or Beech)
• Hardwood fuel pellets (HWFP)
• Master’s Mix Supplemented

Other Growing Guides

How To Grow Oyster Mushrooms

How To Grow Shiitake Mushrooms: Everything You Need To Know

How To Grow Mushrooms In Coffee Grounds

How To Grow Mushrooms In Buckets

How To Grow Mushrooms Outdoors With A Mushroom Bed

The Garmin Alpha 10 device allows you to closely track up to 20 dogs’ movement in the field at a range of up to 9 miles. I put a prerelease model to the test with one German Shorthaired Pointer.

Dog-tracking collars are nothing new. Garmin has a fleet of advanced dog tracking and training systems available. Embraced by hunters who run dogs over vast expanses yet need the ability to monitor each dog’s behavior, these GPS tracking devices are powerful tools in the field.

Today, Garmin added a new tool to the box with the Alpha 10. And while the Alpha 10 might be the newest, it isn’t the biggest hammer in the box.

Instead, the Alpha 10 gives hunters (and anyone else who may want to leverage the power of real-time dog tracking) a versatile, light, effective tracker with trimmed-back features at an attractive price ($400 for the handheld; $650-700 for the handheld plus a collar).

No, that’s still not cheap. But compared with models with more robust onboard GPS mapping, it saves hundreds of dollars. So, I put one to the test way off the grid in the Colorado mountains.

In short: The Alpha 10 performs most of the functions of higher-cost GPS trackers at a lower price. The easy-to-use, accurate tool is a great option for hunters who tend to use phone apps for navigation. Finally, the training collar works well for hunters who have trained their dogs on e-collars.

Garmin Alpha 10 Review

I took the Alpha 10 into some big mountains to scout for the upcoming elk season. As it was still a month away, my wife and I took our GSP along to see if we could wrangle up some grouse for practice.

The Alpha 10 unit was pretty easy to set up initially. The instructions outlined everything from charging to pairing and basic use, and most of this was intuitive enough to do just from inspecting the product.

I paired the Alpha 10 with the TT15 Mini training collar. It allows you to communicate with the dog through tone, vibration, and electric stimulation. Thankfully, my dog is already trained to understand these, and it made for a smooth transition.

In my first use, I had the collar figured out in about 10 minutes out of the car. It took a few minutes to understand the menu system and user interface. But once I’d found and scrolled around all the screens, the product was second nature.

As my pup wove a pattern through the forest and meadows, I could follow her range and direction from the device. It displays an arrow pointing to the dog, and a distance. This makes it very easy to know your dog’s exact location.

Garmin says you can do this with up to 20 dogs at once. I haven’t tried!

In a quick first use, the Alpha 10 seems like a solid system. It allowed me to monitor my dog. And it tells me when she points, sits, lays down, or trees (more applicable to hounds than GSPs). My dog never ranged more than 200 yards during my use, but the device seemed accurate.

The only thing I disliked about the collar and handheld is that it doesn’t come with a hard case to organize the parts. For a product that costs double that of non-GPS dog-training collars from Dogtra, I’d love to see a nice case to keep your investment safe.

Alpha 10 Dog Tracker: Other Features

I got a good first look at the product. But due to its preproduction status, I couldn’t test all the features.

For instance, the Alpha 10 will pair with phones. This allows you to use the Garmin Explore app to track your hunts and even monitor dogs or other buddies who have Garmin products — all from your smartphone.

Here’s the brand’s pitch about these features, which I have not tested.

Mobile Solution

Hunters can pair the Alpha 10 with the Garmin Explore smart device app for enhanced mapping solutions. When paired, users can stow the Alpha 10 handheld in their pack and use their compatible smartphone or tablet to view their dogs’ location and track in real-time.

Garmin Explore provides added relevant information, such as hunt replay to relive your favorite moments of the hunt, robust off-grid navigation, customizable tracking lines, and saved hunt collections for easy access when you need it.

Companion Tracking

Alpha 10 users can pair their unit to a companion’s compatible Garmin dog-tracking device, such as Alpha 200i, to view their companion and companion’s dog location. Once paired, the Alpha 10 operator can make real-time decisions based on at-a-glance information, instead of waiting for verbal communication from the dog’s handler.

The two-way connectivity allows the dog handler and Alpha 10 users to view each other’s location for enhanced awareness when not in visual contact. Additionally, compatible devices can share predefined messages between units for rapid communication.

Ecosystem Compatibility

Individuals can pair the Alpha 10 with optional Garmin devices, including a compatible Garmin smartwatch, such as Instinct, fēnix, or tactix, using the built-in dog-tracking app.

For in-vehicle tracking, the Alpha 10 is also compatible with the Garmin DriveTrack system.

Also, UTV/ATV enthusiasts can pair the Alpha 10 to the Montana 700 or Tread series for additional dog-tracking capabilities.

Visit Garmin’s website to learn more or buy now.

In the field, most windows of opportunity are narrow.

So acting swiftly must be your default position as a hunter.

That goes for shot placement as well.

You’ll learn that through a review of:

• 11 scenarios
• 18 diagrams
• 9 rules

Mastery and success rely on understanding several other concepts and topics.

Like optimal bullet choice, advanced shot types, shot placement anatomy, reaction to shot, and more.

I will cover these topics in related articles.

And link to them as we go along or at the end.

Before we get to the details, let me first explain what successful shot placement has in common with Boot Camp.

Where I’m from, we have national service.

I have fond memories of when I first got a chance to shoot my G3.

It’s not an elegant battle rifle by today’s standards. But I loved it. It was rugged, reliable, and relatively accurate. And a ton of fun at night with a Pilkington on top.

Anyway, I digress.

Your success as a hunter depends on two principles – Thinking faster than the animal and Acting faster than the animal.

There were aspects of Boot Camp I was less excited about.

Aircraft recognition training.

We had to be able to make a quick friend or foe identifications. When spotting aircraft.

And we practiced with aircraft flashcards.

This was not exactly my favorite or strong side. But it provides an important lesson when it comes to shot placement.

Success in the field depends on your ability to shoot fast and accurately.

More often than not, animals don’t hang around for long.

If you’re hunting in woodland or bush, the vegetation will further limit your opportunities to shoot.

So you must be able to quickly acquire the correct sight picture.

The flashcard concept is a fantastic way to develop that skill.

Why.

Your working memory can only manage about four concepts at once.

More, and you start dropping the ball.

Of all the things you can process in your working memory when hunting, deciding where to aim is not a good candidate. That has to be intuitive.

Enter the flashcards.

If you’re anything like me, you want to harvest venison for your freezer. Put a trophy on your wall. And live up to your role as a hunter and steward of nature.

Correct and swift shot placement is key to ticking those boxes.

You’ll learn fast target acquisition in two sections.

1. What type of shot should you use?
2. Where should you aim in different scenarios?

If you’re in a hurry, you can skip to the end for a summary of the rules.

Or to one of the specific scenarios:

• The broadside shot
• The front quartering shot
• The rear quartering shot
• The front shot
• The shot from behind
• Uphill/downhill
  • Downhill broadside
  • Uphill broadside
• Combined angles
  • Front quartering downhill
  • Front quartering uphill
  • Rear quartering downhill
  • Rear quartering uphill

There are several ways to kill a deer or other hoofed animal. One of them stands out as being fast and reliable.

The double lung shot has the biggest margin of error.

And it produces reliable killing.

A heart shot may sound alluring, but it’s not ideal.

It sits low in the body, and shooting under the heart means trouble.

Surprisingly, a bullet through the heart alone can take a long time to take effect.

Other advanced shots present additional challenges. So we’ll leave them for now.

Putting a bullet through both lungs will do one of two things, or both:

• Create severe blood loss that causes fatal shock
• Collapse the lungs and cut off oxygen to the brain and other cells in the body

And this is a surefire way to kill a deer.

This leads us to rule number one.

Shot placement rule #1: Use the double lung shot for fast and reliable killing.

As per the diagram, you’ll see the lungs reach back into the chest cavity of the animal.

But ignore that when it comes to developing fast target acquisition practices.

Instead, consider the vital triangle.

Kevin Robertson introduces it in his book, “The Perfect Shot – Shot Placement for African Big Game” (highly recommended).

It is also good reference for deer and other hoofed animals.

And the center of the triangle corresponds with the center of the lungs.

As well as the top of the heart where you find the arteries and veins meet.

Determine the triangle with these three references:

1. The bottom edge of the shoulder blade
2. The shoulder joint
3. The tip of the elbow

Sometimes you can see the contour of the bones.

But it’s best to have a more reliable way to aim.

I’ll show you how when we analyze the broadside shot.

The broadside shot

The broadside shot is the shortest and most forgiving path through the lungs.

In the ideal scenario we’ll review here, you are at a 90-degree angle to the animal.

And at the same level.

We’ve established that the center of the vital triangle is the best aiming point for speed and effectiveness. But where exactly should you put your crosshairs?

To determine how far you should come up, follow rule two.

Shot placement rule #2 – For horizontal shots, place your horizontal post between ⅓ and ½ up the deer’s body.

As you can see, that corresponds with the center of the triangle.

Where should you put your vertical post then? Easy, follow rule three

Shot placement rule #3 – For broadside shots, place your vertical post on the center of the front leg.

As you can see from the image, by the center, I mean the center of the top part of the leg.

Because the lower part of the leg may reach further forward on a deer, depending on how it stands.

So, your sight picture should look like this for a full broadside shot.

This is the foundational way to shoot an animal.

I won’t go into advanced shots in this article, but it’s worth mentioning one other popular shot.

With the high-heart/center-lung shot, you hit good shoulder meat that will potentially be bloodshot and wasted.

To avoid that, you can move your sight picture to the right. So your vertical post rests on the elbow point, just in the crease between the leg and the belly.

This shot will destroy the lungs, but you must be careful not to come too far back.

A rear lung shot may also be worth considering if you’re shooting a large animal at long range, using a high BC bullet that is fast expanding. With this shot you won’t there is further to the shoulder bones and you will shoot through less muscle.

Generally speaking, the broadside shot is easy on your bullet.

Once we move to the quartering shots, you need to consider if your bullet is fit for purpose.

Let’s see why.

The front quartering shot

Remember the bone structure triangle from the broadside shot?

It was our friend then, creating a relatively free passage for a double lung shot.

If you take a shot at a quartering animal, you need to think about the bullet’s path as it travels through the animal.

I once shot a female red deer with my 7 by 64 (similar to a 280 Remington).

I used a tipped bullet designed for deer.

I thought I was home free as the deer went down from the shot.

As the guide congratulated me on a job well done, the deer started moving and got up on all four.

Fortunately, I’d reloaded immediately after the shot, so I was ready to shoot again.

And I anchored the deer for good.

When butchering the deer, we found the first bullet perfectly lodged in the shoulder knuckle. It wasn’t a big deer. I used a bullet made for that size of animal. And it left the barrel of my rifle at a reasonable velocity.

This is just one data point, but it emphasizes that a front quartering shot means you must carefully consider your bullet choice.

And it’s not just bone structure you need to consider.

At this angle, you’ll shoot through a fair bit of muscle. Especially on a larger animal.

Please ensure the bullet you use can penetrate all the way to and through the vitals if you decide to take a front quartering shot. Regardless of what distance you choose to shoot.

Enough said.

When you do decide to take a shot, where should you aim?

You want to put your bullet through both lungs.

For a 45-degree broadside shot, that path looks like this.

We’ve established you should come up somewhere between 1/3 and 1/2 way up from the animal’s chest.

The exact aiming point depends on how much the animal is quartering.

Here’s a key point to consider.

The heart is offset slightly from the very front of the animal you aim at. So you don’t want to put your vertical post midway between the legs.

Instead, use rule number four.

Shot placement rule #4 – For a 45° front quartering shot, place your vertical post inside the near leg.

That’s your flash card image.

Memorize it. Be ready for action 🙂

Quick question.

Inside the upper leg or lower leg?

Generally speaking, inside the upper part, but it depends on the angle.

And speaking of angles, you must also follow rule number five.

Shot placement rule #5 – Don’t take shots more than 45 degrees off a square broadside.

I’ll explain why when discussing the front and rear quartering shots.

This brings us to the next shot scenario.

The rear quartering shot

With the rear quartering shot, you don’t have the shoulder bone to worry about.

But depending on the angle, you might penetrate the rumen.

I’ll create a separate article with more detail about key organs and shot placement.

All I’ll say here is that the rumen is full of undigested grass.

And it’s a tall order to shoot through.

Shooting through it will also introduce stomach content and bacteria in the body cavity.

That’s something you should try to avoid.

Here’s a diagram showing a 45-degree angle.

It looks like you’re home free.

But in the field, the stomach will most likely be fuller.

And it sits flush with the sides of the animal.

The liver takes up space between the stomach and lungs on the right-hand side, so you might hit it.

On the left-hand side, the stomach takes up all the space. So you’re more likely to hit it when taking on that side.

Combine that with a steeper angle, and you see it’s easy to get in trouble. Just follow rule number five. No shots beyond 45 degrees from a perfect broadside.

I want you to recognize this situation as a potential issue.

Some of the highly frangible bullets that are fantastic for broadside shots at extended ranges will give you trouble if you have to shoot through the rumen.

Bear that in mind.

There is no perfect choice of cartridge and bullet for long and short-range shooting.

Make a choice and be clear on the limitations you have to work with.

With that covered, where should you aim?

Height-wise, you should still refer to rule number two.

Where should you put your vertical post?

Consider rule number six.

Shot placement rule #6 – For a 45° rear quartering shot, place your vertical post inside the far leg.

As discussed, the heart is offset from the front.

So you do the opposite than for a front quartering shot.

That’s your rear quarter flash card.

Look at it before you go to bed at night.

Be ready… 🙂

The front shot

So if there are challenges with the quartering shots, the front shot, straight on, should be easy, right?

I wish.

Your margin of error for significant tissue destruction becomes a lot smaller.

Consider the broadside shot.

You still penetrate both lungs even if you’re a little off your target.

And “both” is the keyword here.

Even if you’re a fair bit off your aiming point.

With a front shot, the further your impact moves from the center of the heart, the less tissue you will destroy.

And veering off, you will only be able to destroy one lung.

Which makes a big difference.

I once tracked an Oryx in South Africa.

Because of a high lung shot that hadn’t done enough damage.

It went down from the shock and then took off.

It took us seven hours to catch up and put it out of it’s misery. More about shock in another article by the way.

Animals can run far if the damage to their lungs isn’t substantial.

There’s no need for you to engineer that kind of situation for yourself.

Here’s an illustration showing how little you have to work with.

It’s the reason the 45-degree rule applies to front quartering shots.

If you go beyond 45 degrees, you start to approach a front shot.

And I recommend that you don’t take this shot unless you have wounded the animal.

By the way, you will notice that it won’t take much head movement before you have a show-stopping object in the bullet path.

And a wounded animal to deal with.

A shot from behind

What about the opposite end?

Shooting the animal up the rear, what some folks refer to as a Texas heart shot.

By the way, I don’t think that’s fair to the good folks and serious hunters in Texas.

But let’s leave that discussion for now.

Here’s the problem with this shot.

You combine the challenges of the rear quartering shot and the front shot.

A limited target area and a great deal of show-stopping plant material.

In my book, you should only use this shot in an emergency.

If you have already wounded an animal. And you need deep penetrating bullets to have any chance of success.

Let me just pause and add one thing.

It may sound like I’ve been preaching stout bullets.

But I haven’t.

What I’m preaching is the right tool for the job.

I will write an article with more detail on cartridge choice and bullet construction.

For now, I will add that in some cases, you want a bullet that expands fast.

You don’t have much distance to work with when you shoot small deer species. So you want a bullet that opens up fast enough to destroy lung and heart tissue before it exits the animal.

And you need the same if you shoot at long ranges.

Shooting uphill and downhill

Maybe you’re hunting from a tree stand.

Or perhaps you’re fortunate enough to hunt in a mountainous or hilly area. Which, by the way, is my favorite environment to hunt.

In that case, you must consider the changes to the aiming point uphill and downhill shooting presents.

Whether you’re shooting up or down, you must consider this.

You are not aiming where you want to hit.

Your goal is to put a bullet straight through the middle of the lungs, as we discussed.

However, your aiming point is some distance from your target, so you must adjust it to ensure the correct bullet path.

It’s worth noting that this is relevant as the shot angle becomes steeper.

Enter rule number seven.

Shot placement rule #7 – Adjust for uphill or downhill shots when the angle exceeds 20 degrees.

So how should you adjust?

Follow rules number eight and nine.

Shot placement rule #8 – If you’re shooting downhill, your aiming point must come up.

Shot placement rule #9 – If you’re shooting uphill, your aiming point must come down.

A little like adjusting open sights back in the day.

Ballistic side note: When shooting uphill or downhill at longer ranges, gravity will have less impact on your bullet. You must combine this effect with the changes to your aiming point.

Downhill broadside

Using the center of the vital triangle, inside the body, as our target, you can see from the diagram that your aiming point changes drastically for steeper angles.

Here’s your flashcard.

Shooting from above, you’ll get much closer to the shoulder blade.

With a bow or light for animal cartridge with a fast expanding bullet, you have to be careful about what you do.

Because your margin of error is getting smaller at that angle.

Uphill broadside

Shooting uphill, you can see how you have to aim further down the body than a regular broadside shot.

This is a relatively acute angle for shooting uphill, and I’ve chosen it to exaggerate and show you the difference.

Consider the 20 degrees as the point when you need to adjust.

And use this diagram as your flash card.

Combined angles

Let’s have some fun.

Let’s combine the quartering shots with the up and downhill shots.

No new rules.

The current ones still apply.

Front quartering downhill

For the front quartering and above version, you will still have to consider the bone structure.

More the shoulder blade than the shoulder knuckle.

Depending on the deer’s size, the quartering shot warnings still apply.

And if you’re a bowhunter, you need to consider if the shoulder bone or blade can deflect or stop your arrow.

Front quartering uphill

As with regular up and downhill shots, visualize the center of the vital triangle inside the body. Offset a bit between the front legs.

Here’s your flashcard.

Rear quartering downhill

This is a typical tree stand shot.

The animal is walking away from you and is less likely to spot any movements.

Rule number five still applies.

More than 45 degrees, and you get in trouble.

By the way, notice how your crosshairs are much closer to the spine. But if you should shoot close to it, you’ll still penetrate both lungs.

Hunting lots from treestands?

Then tattoo this flashcard on the inside of your left eyelid…

Rear quartering uphill

Granted, this is an unusual shot unless you encounter an animal on a ledge on a hill above you.

I once stalked a group of red deer along the base of a ridge line.

They’d moved up the ridge as I turned a corner, and I had a safe and clear uphill shot like this.

I was on flat ground, and the deer left before I could get to a knoll to take an uphill shot.

Now you know where to aim.

Don’t come back with silly excuses like mine.

Bring back a monster rack!

Wow.

Did you ever imagine you could have so much fun with deer shot placement diagrams?

Well, now you know.

Here’s a serious note.

Remember the duty we have as hunters to be effective.

We owe it to those magnificent deer we admire, hunt, harvest, and care for.

Practice your craft as a hunter.

Invest in understanding the behaviors and anatomy of the deer.

And know the capability and limitations of yourself and your equipment.

Memorize the scenarios and shot placement diagrams.

And use the nine rules to help you along the way.

As a reminder, here are the rules.

1. Use the double lung shot for fast and reliable killing.
2. For horizontal shots, place your horizontal post between ⅓ and ½ up the deer’s body.
3. For broadside shots, place your vertical post on the center of the front leg.
4. For a 45° front quartering shot, place your vertical post inside the near leg.
5. Don’t take shots more than 45 degrees off a square broadside.
6. For a 45° rear quartering shot, place your vertical post inside the far leg.
7. Adjust for uphill or downhill shots when the angle exceeds 20 degrees.
8. If you’re shooting downhill, your aiming point must come up.
9. If you’re shooting uphill, your aiming point must come down.

By the way, I have a bonus for you. We’ve added the diagrams to the Efficient Hunting e-book.

Click here to go to the download page.

So you’re heading out on your big elk hunt and considering which caliber to use. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced hunter, choosing the right one for the job is essential. After all, your success depends on it! To help make this decision easier, we’ve compiled a comprehensive guide outlining some of our favorite — and the best — calibers for elk hunting.

How we determined the best caliber for elk hunting.

There’s not a single rifle cartridge that can be called the “best” for elk hunting. The perfect rifle cartridge for the hunt depends on various factors, including the terrain, the type of game hunting, and personal preference. However, after much research and discussion, we’ve identified a few top categories that stand out from the crowd regarding elk hunting.

• Best caliber overall. This one is a bit of an all-rounder caliber and can be used in various hunting scenarios. We wanted to find an elk cartridge that could cover everything, so we focused on several calibers widely accepted and proven to work well in different scenarios.
• Best caliber for long-range elk hunting. Long-range shooting is a popular way of taking down game from a distance. We had to consider bullet drop, wind drift, and the effective range of the cartridge.
• Best caliber for brush hunting. Brush hunting requires staying essentially relatively close to your prey while stalking them. As such, recoil becomes an important factor when selecting a cartridge. We prioritized calibers offering minimal recoil and fast follow-up shots.
• Best lightweight caliber. One of the most important things to consider when elk hunting is weight. You’ll carry your rifle for extended periods, and a light caliber can make all the difference in how much you enjoy the hunt. We looked at calibers that offered good power without the extra bulk.
• Best caliber for take-down power. If you’re hunting elk, especially in the western states with large herds, you want a caliber that will pack enough punch to take down a big bull. We looked at calibers with proven knockdown power and deep penetration capabilities.

Now that we’ve established what we were looking for in these categories let’s discuss why finding an elk cartridge that is perfect for you is crucial.

The importance of finding the right caliber for your elk hunt.

For elk hunting, accuracy and consistency are king. You need a cartridge to do the job without being overly powerful or cumbersome. An elk cartridge that is too slow will leave you with meat damage, while one that’s too fast can cause excessive recoil and shoot through the animal instead of stopping it in its tracks.

The right caliber for you depends on the type of terrain and game you’re hunting, your budget and preferences, and your shooting skills.

Range.

One of the most critical aspects of elk hunting is the range you will shoot. If you’re hunting in an open field, a long-range cartridge like the .308 Winchester or 6.5 Creedmoor might be your best bet. Not only is the bullet weight important, but you’ll also need to consider an optic for your elk rifle.

Environment.

Another important factor to consider is the environment in which you’ll be hunting. A light caliber might be best if you’re hunting in dense brush or woods since you won’t have to lug around a heavy rifle all day. If you hunt in open country, a heavier caliber will give you more power at longer ranges.

Take-down power.

When it comes to elk hunting, take-down power is key. The right cartridge should offer enough energy to penetrate the animal deeply and cause an instant kill. Bullet construction is also important here; some cartridges are designed with controlled expansion to penetrate deeper without damaging too much meat (this is called a controlled expansion bullet).

Weight.

Finally, you’ll want to consider the overall weight of your rifle. If you carry a gun all day, you’ll want something lightweight but still packs enough punch to finish the job. If you’re patiently waiting in a stand or a blind, a heavier rifle might not be an issue.

Breaking down the best elk cartridge.

With all that out, let’s get into our top picks for the best elk cartridges. We think you’ll find something that fits your hunting needs here.

Best caliber overall — .338 Winchester Magnum.

For the best overall elk cartridge, we selected the .338 Winchester Magnum. This powerful magnum packs a serious punch and can take down large game at long distances. It offers great accuracy and consistency, making it an excellent choice for hunting in open fields and brush. Plus, with its recoil-taming features, the .338 Win Mag is still relatively easy to shoot accurately.

What we love the most about the .338 Winchester Magnum is its versatility. This big-game cartridge is suitable for elk and moose, giving you plenty of options for hunting large game. Whether you’re taking down the biggest bull elk you’ve ever seen or even going deer hunting, the .338 Winchester Magnum is up to the task.

Best caliber for long-range elk hunting — .300 Winchester Magnum.

Easily one of the most popular cartridges for long-range elk hunting, the .300 Winchester Magnum is an ideal choice. This classic magnum cartridge offers power and great accuracy at extended ranges. It’s also relatively easy to control in various shooting positions, making it a top pick for experienced hunters who want to take their shots from a distance.

Its ability to handle strong winds sets the 300 Win Mag apart from other long-range cartridges. It’s high ballistic coefficient and flat trajectory make it an excellent option for hunting in windy conditions. And with its controlled expansion bullets, you can expect deep penetration and minimal meat damage.

Best caliber for brush hunting — .30-06 Springfield.

Sometimes, elk hunting in the brush can be a challenge. You need a powerful cartridge to take down your prey but still lightweight and easy to maneuver in tight quarters. That’s where the .30-06 Springfield comes in. This classic deer and elk cartridge is an excellent choice for brush hunting due to its moderate power and low recoil. Plus, with its flat trajectory and controlled expansion bullets, you can expect good accuracy and deep penetration in tight spots.

Our favorite thing about the .30-06 Springfield is its affordability. The factory ammo offers great performance at a reasonable price, and it’s also widely available and easy to find in most gun shops.

Best lightweight caliber — .270 Winchester.

The .270 Winchester is a great choice for hunters who need a lightweight cartridge with plenty of power. This classic deer and elk cartridge offers moderate recoil and excellent accuracy at extended ranges. It’s also quite versatile, as it can be used for various game animals, including elk and deer.

The thing we love the most about the .270 Winchester is its recoil. Compared to other elk rifles, a rifle chambered in .270 Winchester has mild recoil. Hunters of all experience levels can accurately shoot their target with manageable recoil. And with its excellent accuracy, you can be sure to take down your elk in one shot.

Best caliber for take-down power — 7mm Remington Magnum.

Finally, we have the 7mm Remington Magnum. This popular elk cartridge is known for its unmatched take-down power and flat trajectory, making it an excellent choice for long-range hunting. It has superior ballistics and offers excellent accuracy, allowing you to take down your target precisely.

With the high muzzle velocity of the 7mm Rem Mag, this wouldn’t be a good choice for close-range hunting. But if you’re looking for a cartridge that can easily take down a big bull elk at extended ranges, then the 7mm rem mag is your best bet.

Pro tips for finding the perfect elk hunting rifle.

Finding good elk cartridges is only half the battle; you must also find the perfect elk hunting rifle. Here are some pro tips for finding the right setup:

• Understand Your Hunting Environment: The terrain and environment where you’ll be hunting can significantly impact the type of rifle you need. For instance, a lighter, more maneuverable rifle might be your best bet if you’re hunting in dense forests with shorter sight lines. On the other hand, if you’re hunting in open spaces where longer shots are expected, a heavier, more stable rifle that’s accurate at long distances would be ideal.
• Consider the Caliber: As discussed earlier; some calibers are better suited for elk hunting than others. Powerful rounds like the .338 Win Mag, .270 Winchester, and .300 Winchester Magnum are all good choices. Consider what you feel comfortable shooting and what will effectively take down an elk.
• Choose the Right Action: Bolt action rifles are popular among elk hunters because they’re reliable, accurate, and can handle powerful rounds. However, lever action and semi-automatic rifles can also be suitable, especially if you anticipate needing quick follow-up shots.
• Check the Weight: Remember that you’ll likely carry your rifle for a long while hunting. Balance the need for a powerful, stable gun with the practicality of hauling it around all day. Lightweight rifles are easier to carry but might have more recoil.
• Look for Quality Optics: A good scope can make a huge difference in successful elk hunting. Look for optics with clear, bright images and a good magnification range. A quality scope can help you make accurate shots at various distances.

Our hunting experts have bought countless rifles over the years and agree that following these tips can help you pick the perfect elk hunting rifle. You’ll be ready to hit the woods and bag your next big bull with the right setup.

FAQs for elk hunting Calibers.

To round off our comprehensive guide to elk hunting calibers, here are some frequently asked questions—

What is the best caliber for elk hunting?

The best elk hunting calibers depend on your hunting style and environment, but some of the most popular options include .300 Winchester Magnum, .30-06 Springfield, .270 Winchester, and 7mm Remington Magnum. These are all great choices for taking down an elk at extended ranges.

What is the most accurate caliber for elk hunting?

The .300 Winchester Magnum is widely considered one of the most accurate cartridges for elk hunting due to its flat trajectory and high ballistic coefficient. It’s also a powerful round that can effectively take down large game animals.

How far can you accurately shoot an elk?

The effective range for taking down an elk will vary depending on the caliber, shooter experience, and environmental conditions. As a general rule of thumb, most elk hunters should have no problem making accurate shots out to 500 yards with the right rifle and optics. Of course, it’s always best to practice shooting at various distances to develop good shooting habits and accuracy.

Is a .308 big enough for elk?

A .308 Winchester is generally considered big enough for elk hunting. The rule of thumb for the minimum amount of kinetic energy needed to kill a mature elk is 1500 ft-lbs, which a .308 can deliver. However, it’s important to consider shot placement and the hunter’s ability to shoot accurately.

Is 6.5 Creedmoor or 308 better for elk?

The debate between 6.5 Creedmoor and .308 Winchester for elk hunting is a topic of much discussion among hunters. Both bullet weights have strengths and weaknesses, and their choice largely depends on your needs and circumstances. The 6.5 Creedmoor has a slightly flatter trajectory, less wind drift, and less recoil than the .308 Winchester, making it easier to shoot accurately, particularly at longer ranges. However, it’s worth noting that some hunters consider the 6.5 Creedmoor too light for elk, with most suggesting a minimum of 1,500 ft-lbs of energy for a clean kill. On the other hand, the .308 Winchester is known for its superior frontal surface area and wound channel creation, which can lead to more effective kills. Its ammunition is also more widely available and typically cheaper, making it a more economical choice for many hunters.

What is the preferred rifle shot for elk?

The preferred shot on an elk is a broadside shot. This shot placement affords the best chance of striking the animal’s vital organs while still allowing for maximum penetration. Ideally, you should aim for the highest point of the shoulder to ensure a clean kill.

Can you shoot a bedded elk?

Yes, you can shoot a bedded elk, but it is important to ensure an ethical shot. This means considering the wind direction, background noise, and the animal’s position. If you doubt whether your shot will be ethical, it’s best to wait until the elk stands before taking the shot.

What is the best follow-up shot for elk?

The best follow-up shot for an elk depends on the initial hit placement and the circumstances of your hunt. If you’ve made a clean kill, there’s no need to take additional shots. However, if you haven’t achieved a clean kill with your initial shot, you’ll want to take another shot as soon as possible. A quick follow-up shot can help ensure the animal is taken down humanely and quickly.

Finding the right caliber.

The quest for the perfect elk hunting rifle and caliber is a personal journey heavily influenced by your unique hunting style, environment, and comfort level.

Whether it’s the .338 Win Mag with its sheer stopping power, the .30-06 Springfield’s brush hunting prowess, the .270 Winchester’s light recoil, or the 7mm Remington Magnum’s exceptional take-down ability, each caliber offers unique advantages.

Remember, a critical part of your success in the field is not just the rifle and its caliber but also understanding your hunting environment, the rifle’s action type, weight, and optics quality. And never underestimate the power of trying before buying.

Armed with these insights, you’re on your way to finding the perfect partner for your next elk-hunting adventure.