What You Really Need To Know to Hunt Swamp Country Bucks

Water Barriers

There’s a reason mid-evil castles were built surrounded by a moat. A buffer of water between defender and assailants was a matter of life and death. It warranted a barrier of protection and served as an alert of intrusion.

I used to hunt an abandoned farm years beyond the days of its land being worked. A river abutted the backside of the property with connected drainage ditches lined by tag alders and dogwood woven throughout. The fields had long since grown over with switchgrass, bus-sized dogwood clusters and the occasional weathered cedar fence post reminders of how the land used to be. It was a whitetail paradise.

Every spring the river swelled from the thaw and flooded the land. After years of soggy bottoms, cattails prevailed as common across much of the land once tilled and rotated between a bounty of crops.

By May the flooding would subside, and resident deer moved back in.

I lost a lot of blood watching deer movement the first couple summers, mosquitos were horrendous. I posted up on the edge of timber and watched for evening movement. I would catch glimpses of their bright, orange-colored bodies moving from a square section of cattails surrounded by a drainage ditch towards the neighbor’s crop fields. The sound of water as they crossed the ditch was a calling card and drew my eyes in that direction.

If I could hear the water from a distance, it’s a no-brainer they used the sound as an alarm for intruders. These deer had innately chosen to bed in an area surrounded by a moat. Maybe the deer were bedding in these squares of cattails surrounded by drainage ditches because the coyotes were reluctant to cross the water.

Every winter the snow-covered ice on these frozen ditches were traced with coyote tracks weaving back and forth into the cattails squares I knew the deer to bed in before the water turned to ice. During the season, however, I never once witnessed a coyote cross the ditches to access those cattail squares. It was the first time I had ever equated the concept of a water barrier between landlocked deer bedding and surrounding dry ground.

The combination of deterrence and sound making areas of high ground surrounded by water likely bedding habitat.

Sanctuary Myth Buster

“Don’t go in there!” We’ve all heard it before and many of us likely implore it. It’s no secret deer bed in marshes and swamps. It’s been written about, professed in seminars and surely neighbors of the wetland area next door have voiced an opinion that intruding into that marsh will “kill the deer hunting in a hurry around here.”

Thick cover, like cattails and tag alders, is hard to navigate stealthy. The suction of footsteps in mud and splashing of water contribute to the sound of rustling brush and breaking branches. Without the cover of wind or other distracting background noise, like nearby train or road traffic, sneaking up on a deer bedded in a marsh is close to impossible. This is the very attraction deer have to marshes and it is what makes killing a deer in the marsh more complicated.

Then why hunt marshes?

Simply put, the challenging obstacles of deer hunting wetland habitat are the very same details that attract more deer to those areas. I’ll take those odds.

I used to hunt the fringes starting off observing from a distance and then moving in to hunt the edges. I had read an article stating the importance of leaving core bedding areas alone and treating them as sanctuaries to hold more deer on your property. It made sense, why would the deer leave if I avoided pushing them away?

I had my share of opportunities hunting the way I did, but most mature buck encounters occurred during the seek phase of the rut. From the last week of October to the end of the first week of November I would stick to the edges of the area I had left alone all season. It was a waiting game and never really felt like I was actively hunting or pursuing. To each their own, hunting is personal after all, but a successful hunt after applying aggressive tactics tends to climb the ranks of my most memorable days in the woods.

It was Dan Infalt who convinced me I was missing out. Of course, I looked back on several great bow kills hunting the fringes of the very place I called a sanctuary, but I was being defensive.

Dan asked a very simple question – how many of those bucks I had killed hunting the sanctuary fringes were outside of the rut?

My answer – “None.” Short and sweet.

If you know the deer are in there, why not go in and get after them? Let that sink in.

Written By: Sam Ubl

History can’t be revised, retold, or rewritten. It is what it is. And the reality is that many of the greatest ice fishing lures—particularly those for panfish—were invented by John Butwinski of Little Atom. But it’s important to understand that the evolution of modern ice lures for panfish, and the basis for many of today’s fundamental designs, goes back to the 1950s. I fear the “rest of the story” has never been adequately told.

Most panfish specialists have fished the Little Atom Nuggie, Wedgee, and Noodle— some of the first micro-sized ice plastics. What few know, however, is that Butwinski designed many classic designs—Shmoe Spoon, Rat Finkie, Atom Ant, Purist, and Rembrandt. Most of these have been mimicked once Little Atom’s original patents expired, Butwinski having passed away in 1982. Rick and Don DeBaere purchased Little Atom in 1984 and unveiled some original ice fishing plastics in 1989, including the Tease Tail, based on drawings sketched by Butwinski in the 1960s.

Little Atom designs such as the Duppie, Skimpie, and Wedgee caught fire in the 1990s, quickly becoming go-to lures in early ice competitions. Rick DaBaere released the Nuggie in 2004, which Phil Morse tipped on a Fiskas jig to win the North American Ice Fishing Circuit (NAIFC) Championship. The Fiskas/Nuggie pairing became a tournament phenom, accounting for at least six NAIFC Championships. In terms of prominent, productive, important ice plastics, I rank it number one of all time.

Little Atom Rat Finkie: Almost every veteran ice angler has fished this masterpiece jig, yet few know the Rat Finkie was invented in 1964 by Butwinski, founder of Little Atom Lure Company. The original Finkie launched the trend toward horizontal-hanging ice jigs, the focus of countless designs to come. The objective remains to present the jig in a nearly parallel posture, positioning the hook at the optimal hook-set angle.

The Rat Finkie has been a confidence jig for me, triggering bites day after day, season after season. Other Finkie assets: Fine-wire hook, soft tubular body, and the fact you can tip it with a single larva or softbait to create the illusion of a tiny bite of food, natural in appearance and texture.

Five rows in my 30-year old Scientific Anglers box are crammed with Finkies, most solid white-glow, glow-pink, or solid purple. The white glow pattern with a single waxworm or half a Little Atom Wedgee has probably put more sunfish on the ice for me than any other three lures combined. The #12 and #14 sizes are tops for finessing big bluegills, while larger ones are awesome crappie jigs, tipped with a tiny minnow, jumbo waxie, or color-matched Wedgee or Ice Mite plastic.

Lindy Ice Worm: An extension of the horizontal jig concept, the tri-segmented Lindy Ice Worm (previously called the Genz Worm), was created by the master himself. Dave Genz intended it as a lure to reach deep perch faster, though it works in many situations. Two key features give it a rapid, nearly horizontal drop: An oversized head segment and an eyelet positioned further down the hook shank. Snug the knot tight to create a 90-degree angle between line and hook shank. Then tip it with a mass of eurolarvae to get the Ice Worm rocking as you jig it. A Berkley PowerBait Ice Whipworm also creates a segmented worm effect, an awesome big perch combo.

Fished over soft-bottom zones, this combo is killer for fish feeding on bloodworms. Genz advocated a slow, vertical climb, emulating the ascending actions of midge larvae as they vacate their benthic habitat. Drop the jig to the bottom and slowly inch it upward, using little rod tip quivers to make the jig dance as it rises, before dropping it back into the substrate.

Of note for this season is the introduction of a tungsten Lindy Ice Worm, along with tungsten renditions of their Toad, Bug, and Fat Boy.

Little Atom Shmoe: Created by Butwinski in 1959, the Shmoe Spoon remains deadly for most veteran crappie anglers, though often under other names. The Shmoe’s magic stems from its two-tone colorations—glow head, contrasting body—as well as its light-wire hook. Tip it with a small minnow, with the hook lightly piercing the skin parallel to the dorsal fin, point toward the head.

This combo has been so effective for crappies, perch, and walleyes that it could appear beside the definition of deadstick. The original thin gold hook remains an indispensable detail, pairing beautifully with tiny minnows. It’s light enough to keep baits alive and kicking, and can be bent repeatedly without breaking. I open the hook gap slightly, so it’s barely offset, and it hooks and holds crappies and walleyes better.

The Shmoe’s so productive fished in place with a lively minnow that it’s not necessary to jig it. But when you see fish eyeballing it on sonar or a camera, a fluid sweep of the rod, followed by a slow fluttering pause, usually closes the deal.

Fiskas Wolfram Epoxy Jig: Unlike the bass segment of the sport in which casual anglers follow tournament results like box scores, most ice fishers pay little attention to competitive events. That’s unfortunate when you consider some of the biggest breakthroughs—such as tungsten jigs and plastics—first gained fame in circuits such as the ‘Trap Attacks and NAIFC.

Anglers such as Mike McNett, Tony Boshold, and Phil and Jeff Morse have won so many NAIFC events with Fiskas Wolfram (tungsten) jigs that it’s surprising the tungsten trend took so long to go mainstream. Jamie Olson, owner of yourbobbersdown.com—primary North American distributor of Sweden-based Fiskas jigs—says more tournament money has been won with a 4-mm Fiskas E Series jig, white with glow red bead, than any other single ice lure. He ought to know, having sold thousands of them to tournament anglers out of his van during in the early tourney days.

A Fiskas Wolfram jig, coupled with a Little Atom Wedgee or Nuggie, is the archetypal tungsten-plastic pairing and Fiskas remains my all-time favorite. Hooks are fine-wire, durable, and sticky sharp. The paint doesn’t chip and their red and purple jigs with glow beads on the hook shank remain favorites. You can tie them with a loop knot to add jig action and pivot, but I’ve become a fan of the snell knot tied around the base of the head, which serves like a barb for holding softbaits in place.

Fiskas N24 Balance: It’s amazing that anglers continue to overlook this incredible bluegill jig, especially considering it’s in the same category as the classic Rapala Jigging Rap. Fiskas offers 29 varieties of “balance” lures, and the N24 “Gill Getter” is maybe the most remarkable. With a single hook on either side of the jig’s head, sunfish and other reluctant biters can’t bite it without getting stung.

Past NAIFC champion Phil Morse is a balance lure fanatic, tipping one hook on the Gill Getter with a Micro Nuggie. “No matter how or where ‘gills bite this jig, they can’t avoid one of the tiny hooks,” he says. “It glides beautifully after you twitch it and returns to a perfect horizontal posture at rest.” It’s tiny, just 1/50-ounce with two #18 hooks. But amid tough bites, it’s hard to beat.

Akara Disco Ball: We’ve often written in In-Fisherman about the value of through-head style tungsten jigs for fishing thread-thin lines for small fish. If you ask top ice anglers from Latvia, Russia, and North America to agree on one elite ice jig, it would almost certainly resemble a gold Akara Tungsten Mormishka Disco Ball.

Through-head jigs require the angler to tie a snell knot, passing the line through the jig’s head, and wrapping it around the hook shank. The advantage is a knot that doesn’t require repositioning or retying nearly as frequently as other designs, and a jig that hangs at the same near-horizontal posture. The knot also serves as a barb or keeper to secure softbaits.

What separates gold disco ball heads from plain or painted heads is the reflective properties of the multi-faceted metallic surface. When you look at this jig on an Aqua-Vu camera, you can’t miss the sparkle its faceted surface creates. Gold can be an exceptional hue for bluegills and crappies. I spent most of the 2015 season fishing this jig for sunfish and never regretted it. And it’s a confidence jig for some of the best panfish anglers I know.

Jeff’s Jigs Tungsten Zoo Bug: A departure from about every other jig you’ve fished, the Zoo Bug is an exceptional Daphnia mimic, the only one I know of. In 2013, master fly and jig tier Jeff Wenger and I began discussing the possibility of producing a super-realistic zooplankton imitation. Wenger blew me away with the Zoo Bug, a beautiful transparent-bodied jig-fly with anatomically correct antennae and an internal tungsten bead. Unique to the Zoo Bug is its semisoft epoxy exterior, weighted body, and remarkable underwater action, mimicking the real thing in a supersized rendition.

It’s garnered a considerable following, particularly among younger tournament anglers and guides, prompting Wenger to quit his “real job” and become a full-time tier. He sells loads of these jigs, staying busy year-round.

Give it short darting actions with a Thorne Bros Quiverstick Stealth or other fast-tip ice rod, imitating the bug-like stop-and-go motions of live Daphnia—one of the primary wintertime foods of crappies and sunfish. Tip it with a single waxworm, a trio of eurolarvae, or a plastic tail, such as a J & S Plastics Ice Mite Jr., or fish it plain.

With the success the Zoo Bug, Wenger also offers Tungsten Copepods, Scuds, and a sweet shrimp imitation. Don’t go to Devils Lake without a stash of his Tungsten Shrimp, a favorite producer of big crustacean-munching perch.

Northland Tackle Forage Minnow Spoon: Probably the lure responsible for more big perch than any other in my box, a 1/32- or 1/16-ounce Forage Minnow Spoon is an amazing lure. With a bent shape in a small package, its thin silhouette is suggestive of food.

Given the spoon’s lifelike qualities, you can’t fish it wrong by imparting tiny twitches or raising it by slowly elevating your rod tip or reeling. Try to get perch and crappies to chase the lure up in the water column until they can’t resist striking. That failing, quickly flutter the spoon back to bottom and start over again.

Tip each tine of the red treble hook with multiple maggots or a small minnow head. I’ve also had success with a Northland Impulse Perch Eye. Choose a tipping that’s heavy enough to make the hook pivot and dance with the slightest movement of the lure.

Salmo Chubby Darter: The original “ice crankbait,” the Salmo Chubby Darter is another one with a cool story, created by In-Fisherman digital editor Jeff Simpson. He carved prototypes for what would become the Salmo Chubby Darter over 15 years ago. “I grew up fishing South Dakota’s prairie lakes, which lack structure or edges,” Simpson says. “The fish there are nomads; you have to move and drill constantly to stay on the bite. The idea behind the Chubby Darter was to create a lure that would call fish to me.

“I carved the first ones from balsa, then weighted them with enough lead to sink. That first day, my friend Paul Schamber laid on the ice and watched the action. Within seconds of jigging the first Chubby Darter, walleyes and perch were surrounding and striking it. Everywhere we drilled a hole and dropped the bait, fish seemed to swarm it. Salmo in Poland didn’t stray from my original prototypes, other than to add sweet paint jobs and build the lures from foam instead of wood.

Simpson says the Darter was the first of its kind, with an action similar to a crankbait, vibrating and darting on the upstroke, wobbling on the fall. It’s may be the best ice lure for triggering jumbo crappies, perch, and walleyes I’ve fished, depending on what size you select among 4 options from 11â’„3- to 21â’„2 inches.

Rapala Jigging Rap: The W2 and W3 Jigging Rap is, like several others on this list, a timeless, hall of famer that always catches fish. Over deep flats or along drop-offs, the Rap remains an efficient, alluring option, particularly for big perch and crappies. For years, we talked about tipping the treble hook with maggots or a minnow head. Today, we know this is generally unnecessary. Keep it twitching and dancing as you jig it in the water column, daring fish to chase and commit. Pause frequently.

Fished with one of the micro braided lines (I like 3-pound test Sufix Nanobraid) and an 18-inch leader of 4-pound fluorocarbon, a W2 Jigging Rap also is an overlooked bluegill bait, selecting for big fish. One overlooked presentation involves holding the Rap still, just above fish level, and occasionally quivering it nervously.

*In-Fisherman Field Editor Cory Schmidt, Brainerd, Minnesota, is an avid ice angler and industry insider.

If it’s First it Follows, If it’s Second it Stays

A rifle scope’s reticle is placed in either the first focal plane (FFP) or the second focal plane (SFP). The main difference between the two options is how the reticle behaves when adjusting the scope’s magnification. A FFP rifle scope has a variable size reticle, while a SFP rifle scope will have a static reticle at all magnifications. There are advantages and disadvantages to either option.

First Focal Plane

First focal plane rifle scopes are commonly preferred by long range target shooters. When adjusting magnification on a FFP rifle scope, the reticle your eye sees will change in size, becoming increasingly larger as magnification increases. What this means is; your units of measure per each hash mark, MOA or Mil, represent the same value regardless of the current magnification setting.

Example: a rifle scope with hash marks representing .25 MOA across the horizontal line will represent .25 MOA at all magnification levels.

First focal plane rifle scopes are starting to gain popularity with hunters who find themselves shooting their intended targets at longer distances. Knowing the hash marks represent the same value in all scenarios is an advantage in terms of speed. Speed, however, comes at a cost; the differing sizing of the reticle may be too large at certain distances coupled with magnification and can make shot placement trickier and inversely it’s also possible for the reticle to be too small. Luckily, in those scenarios, an illuminated reticle may relieve some of that pain.

Second Focal Plane

Second focal plane has been a commonly used reticle position by hunters for years. SFP is how most people expect a rifle scope’s reticle to behave, rightly so, we’ve all generally grew up looking through these scopes. The reticle stays the same size at all magnification levels which makes it easier to see at all ranges but comes at a price.

Considering the reticle isn’t variable in size, that means the hash marks on the reticle are variable in what they represent. Almost all rifle scopes default to the hashes being truly represented a full magnification, although it would be wise to double-check.

Example: Leupold’s Mark 5 HD 3.6-18×44 a second focal plane rifle scope with a magnification range of 3.6-18x, has hash marks representing 1 MOA. This is only true at its full magnification, 18x.

When the rifle scope is not at full magnification, the hash marks represent different values relative to the magnification. For example, in the above Mark 5 HD, full magnification represents 1 MOA. At half of that magnification, 7.2x, the hash marks represent double the default value; 2 MOA.

This poses an added challenge to taking a shot when you factor in having to do a bit of mental math when using hold-over hash marks.

Which one is right for me?

So, how do you choose the right rifle scope? In reality, it all comes down to preference and what style of hunting you’re finding yourself in more often. First focal plane rifle scopes are advantageous when shooting long distance where quick follow-up shots using hold-over are more likely. They are disadvantageous when you find yourself in closer ranges in dark timer considering it’s very easy to lose the smaller and thinner reticle lines against dark backgrounds.

Second focal plane rifle scopes are useful for visibility throughout all magnification ranges and when paired with a ballistics turret allow you to center punch regardless of the magnification.

If you’re having trouble pulling the trigger on a first focal plane or second focal plane rifle scope, our team at the Outdoorsmans is dedicated to finding the perfect match for you. We’ll take the time to consider your budget, hunting style, and the terrain you commonly find yourself, and we’ll marry you with a rifle scope you’ll be proud to own. Email us at [email protected] or call us at 1-800-291-8065 to get started!

300 Blackout Ammo has a lot going for it, right up to the point at which you try to take advantage of its subsonic prowess for tasks other than punching paper. Common subsonic loads, even if tipped with a fragile match bullet such as the ubiquitous 220-grain Sierra Matchking, plow 0.30-inch diameter holes straight through fleshy targets and keep on truckin’ right into the next inconveniently located piece of real estate.

We’ve tried bullets that in other applications are positively explosive. Hornady’s 208-grain A-Max, for example, fragments violently when shoved out the muzzle at even .308 Win velocities, but from a Blackout you might as well be using a DeWalt. Getting a .30-cal to expand reliably at around 1,000 feet per second requires a specialized projectile, and they’re not exactly inexpensive.

Being cheap bastards, in times past we experimented by cutting back the jacket tip on an SMK and then boring out the meplat, thinking that this would be enough to induce expansion. Great theory, sucks in practice. Gel testing confirmed that it performs no better than an unaltered bullet, so why waste the effort? Cutting to the chase, we rounded up a small selection of expanding subs.

Note there are a few more companies who offer bullets for you to roll your own (Cutting Edge, for example), but as work has displaced gentle-paced pursuits like reloading, we’d often rather pay in money than time.

If you decide that a subsonic 300 Blackout Ammo fills your requirements for a stealthy hog slayer, or you’ve settled on that caliber for home defense duties, then you might want to avail yourself of our buyer’s guide below.

300 Blackout Ammo Testing Protocol

All loads were tested for velocity using both 16- and 9-inch barreled weapons. A Remington 700, equipped with a Nightforce ATACR 4-16×42 and SilencerCo Omega was employed as our longer rifle, and it was this combo that we also used for accuracy and gel testing. Five-shot groups were shot at 50, rather than 100, yards as we felt this was a realistic distance for subsonic use. The shorty gun was our budget hog hammer — a franken AR built on a Gibbz side charging upper and equipped with a Maxim Defense PDW pistol brace. Note that all loads except the Fort Scott and Gorilla offerings were supersonic from the 16-inch barrel.

Velocity readings were taken using a Caldwell G2 chronograph, which has the useful ability to store data on your phone via Bluetooth. Chrono was set up 10 feet from the muzzle, ambient temp was 69 degrees at 2,100 feet elevation, and gel testing was performed using two, 16-inch Clear Ballistics gel blocks, placed end to end.

Fort Scott 190-grain SCS Brush Hog

Ever heard of these guys? Neither had we, until we walked into a gun store near San Antonio, Texas, where the counter jockeys assured us they were well regarded by local hog hunters. Intrigued, we bought a couple of boxes for testing. Unlike the rest of the projectiles in this test, these are non-expanding, relying for their wounding abilities on becoming unstable in media more dense than air. Gasp! The fabled M16 tumbling bullet!

Despite a healthy dose of skepticism, they turned in a decent performance, coming to rest after 180 degrees of flippage and 15.5 inches of penetration in bare gel, with the bullet’s base just barely under the back end of the block. Fort Scott seems to be using a set of dies that diverges from industry norms, which resulted in a misfire rate of around 50 percent in our bolt gun — the only sample to do so. On examining the case shoulder (which, in 300 Blackout, is even less significant than Chuck Schumer’s dick) it would appear that it’s both steeper and shorter than competitive brands, allowing the case just enough room to shift forward under firing pin impact. It ran fine in our AR, though.

Gorilla Ammo 205-Grain Silverback

Gorilla’s monolithic projectile features a gaping hollow point, which initiates pretty healthy expansion after about 3 inches of penetration in gel. One of the two loads achieving subsonic velocities from our 16-inch bolt gun, it’s mouse-fart quiet even in longer barrels. Not only did it retain all its weight after impact, but petals on the copper bullet remained sharp enough to nick careless fingers when pulling it from the gel block. Accuracy was plenty good for dispatching critters at subsonic ranges.

Hornady 190-grain Sub-X

Announced in December 2017 and released for sale three months later, Hornady added an expanding subsonic bullet to its existing five 300 Blackout ammo offerings. Built to their usual standards, the bullet features a red polymer tip to initiate expansion, a detail no doubt familiar to users of their Critical Duty line of pistol ammo. In our test rifle, it proved to be an accurate and consistent performer, and if a lone flyer were discounted, would’ve turned in a 0.36-inch group. Of the conventional jacket-and-core projectiles in this test, it was the only one not to separate. Note, however, that some polymer mags may have problems in presenting the blunt tip high enough to make it up the feed ramp in your favorite semi auto. Either use regular old GI versions or Magpul’s 300 BLK-specific offering.

hornady.com

Lehigh Defense 194-Grain Maximum Expansion

Lehigh’s wicked-looking solid copper bullets turned in an admirable performance, expanding as advertised and growing sharp, symmetrical talons when shot into gel. When dug out, they showed evidence that the fast twist barrels of our test guns would’ve caused additional tissue damage, as they screwed their way through the medium — in this case making three complete revolutions before coming to rest after shedding a petal. Those wanting additional penetration should consider Lehigh’s loading; it exceeds the FBI protocol, but if you encounter bigger hogs it affords a margin of safety on quartering shots.

Noveske / Nosler 220-Grain Ballistic Tip

Averaging 20-fps faster than the otherwise similar SSA load, this collaboration between two of Oregon’s most respected gun companies is unmistakable with its ominously dark finish. Accuracy was good enough for the task at hand, and the bullet core achieved 17 inches of penetration, after parting company with the remaining jacket around the 15-inch mark. About 30-grains worth of ballistic payload was shed in total, leaving a smoky-looking trail through our gel block as it threw off particles of lead and copper.

SSA 220-grain Ballistic Tip

Silver State Ammo was acquired by Nosler in 2013, and we suspect that both this load and the Noveske/Nosler above use the same bullet, with a different polymer tip and coating. Group size was almost identical to the Nosler load, and both bullets separated from their remaining jackets after 12 to 14 inches of penetration in bare gel. As this meets the FBI requirements, we don’t see this as a negative for defensive use, because both resulting fragments penetrate sufficiently to reach vital organs.

Photos by Kenda Lenseigne

More on 300 Blackout

• The Curious Origin Story of 300 Blackout
• New in 2021: Magpul’s 300 Blackout 20-round PMags.
• Radical Firearms Integrally Suppressed 300 Blackout SBR at SOFIC.
• 300 Blackout Buyer’s Guide.
• 300 Blackout vs 556: More than a Matter of Distance.

Breaking News Bucks

Records in the whitetail world are not easy to topple. Each year there are a few contenders, but for one reason or another they commonly fall short. A broken tine, mass that tapers off or mismatched sides have all dashed some hunters’ hopes over the years. Such is the trophy hunting game. Truthfully, while many of us yearn to take the biggest of the big, it is not easy.

There are few true giants to begin with, and whitetails reaching that status rarely walk out and surrender! You might hunt your whole life and never get an opportunity to take one. But we can dream, right? A million to one is still a chance!

So, what is the probability that two Alabama hunters would set new state records in the same season using primitive weapons? Maybe the answer lies in knowing how they did it.

Michael Perry’s Non-Typical

Let’s start with Michael Perry’s story. Michael hunts public land almost exclusively. He knows a lot about Black Warrior WMA because he’s hunted there for years and walks miles into the 90,000 acres seeking good deer. That extra effort pays off.

In 2019, he spotted signs of a good buck using an area with a heavy thicket near a creek. It was far enough off the road that he figured other hunters wouldn’t find it, so he hung a camera and moved on.

There is the first clue: Get far away from the pressure.

Hunting other areas kept Michael busy that season, and he never got back to check that camera. When he checked the camera the following spring, there was a good buck in there; and one daylight picture from the previous November. Again he left the camera, and in 2020 there were more pictures.

The deer was now a solid 160- class buck, and Michael set out to get him. He hunted the area a few times without success before leaving for greener pastures. The next time he checked the camera, he realized that he had missed seeing the deer by one day.

Clue two: Timing is everything.

When 2021 rolled around, Michael had a new plan. He bought a crossbow intending to hunt the buck as much as possible. But his busy schedule always seemed to get in the way, and the early archery season passed without an opportunity to hunt.

His wife, Kathy, had given him a muzzleloader the previous Christmas. Michael had already taken bucks worthy of the Alabama State Records program with rifle and bow, so he decided that he would use the new gun to try for the big deer. There was a five-day muzzleloader season in the first week of November, but work got in the way again, and he missed the first four days. With only one day left to hunt, it was then or never.

Another clue: Hunt whenever you can make the time.

That morning Michael dropped Kathy off in a good area, then he walked in for another hour. The weather was crisp from a light frost, and there was a steady breeze. He hung his stand off to the side of a trail and waited.

The action was slow until 9:30 a.m., when a familiar 3 1/2-year-old buck came by at 20 yards. He was close, but the buck didn’t have a very nice rack. Michael had seen him in trail camera pictures, and usually the bigger buck was right there with him. He let the younger buck pass.

Clue four: Let younger bucks walk.

A few minutes later, the non-typical appeared about 40 yards further out. He was much larger than the year before, and there would be no passing this one.

Michael picked up the muzzleloader and made the historic shot. The buck lurched forward, ran a few yards, and it was over. The new state-record non-typical muzzleloader buck was down!

The 6 1/2-year-old deer has a huge, dark rack with heavy beams, split points, stickers and beading that extends from the bases up onto the brow tines. It scores 196 3/8 inches, besting the previous record holder by more than six inches.

Shane Bailey’s Typical

A self-described turkey hunter who also hunts deer, Shane took the Alabama muzzleloader state-record typical in December of 2021. Shane cut his teeth in Bankhead National Forest, chasing the big birds as a teenager. Deer numbers were low back then, but that time in the woods taught him skills he uses to this day. And he learned a lot about whitetail behavior along the way. He also likes the challenge of hunting with a muzzleloader. Shane has taken many good bucks since those early days, including a 150-class deer in 2019 on Black Warrior WMA. He first encountered that one during the special muzzleloader season and missed it. A week later, he was back for a rifle hunt, killing it in the same area.

Clue five: When you find one, stay after him.

Around that same time, he and his friend, Jay Hardin, began getting pictures of another good deer on a very small tract of private land (only 15 acres). That deer was not living on the property, but his frequent passes through gained their attention. Trail cameras were providing great intel, pinpointing where he traveled and when he was there. But most of the pictures were taken at night. Then just as quickly as he had shown up, the buck was gone.

The sudden disappearance was attributed to a large influx of wild hogs. It got so bad that Jay was shooting them in his yard, and that disturbance probably made the big deer avoid the area. So, back to square one. In all of 2020, the buck was a ghost.

Clue six: It takes time for a plan to come together.

During the summer of 2021, the buck showed up again. He put on a lot more antler, but like most older deer he was mainly nocturnal. There was only one daylight picture of him. That would likely change during the rut, so Shane and Jay started planning for later in the year.

He was moving through very thick cover, but he moved in the same general area every time. This meant dialing in tight because it was hard to see very far. It also required a careful approach to avoid spooking the deer again. They decided to set up on each end of the travel corridor in hopes that one of them would get a shot.

[Shane in crocs with deer –

Clue seven: Plan meticulously and use caution.

On Dec. 23, Shane was at his tree stand an hour before daylight. It was a cool 22 degrees, with a light northeast wind, exactly the conditions he needed. He poured a whole bottle of Tinks 69 scent out just below his stand and headed up the tree.

Clue eight: Go big!

Just after 7:00 a.m. Shane rattled a long sequence, mimicking an all-out battle between two mature bucks. He wanted the big buck to hear it if he was anywhere in the area. That sequence went on and on until his arms hurt. Then, he waited.

Hint nine: No pain, no gain.

After another 45 minutes passed, he rattled again. Since the action had been slow, he began texting Jay. In the middle of a text, he caught a glimpse of a buck running off, followed by a loud snort wheeze close by. Worried he had blown his chance, Shane grabbed his call and answered with a snort wheeze. Then he grunted twice.

Within a few seconds, there was more movement behind him: It was his target buck closing in cautiously! The giant buck stopped behind some pines, then stepped forward enough for Shane to take the shot. Smoke obscured Shane’s view, but after the slow start his hunt was over very quickly. The buck only went a few yards and expired.

Final clue: Be ready for anything!

The buck was big enough to topple the muzzleloader state record set just a year earlier by a slim margin, scoring 170 1/8 gross. The 6×6 rack has great mass and a 19-inch spread. The buck is estimated to be over 6 years old.

In Conclusion

Both hunters beat long odds, taking magnificent mature bucks. Some might say they were lucky, but they also have plenty of other big deer on their walls at home: the rewards for plenty of hard work and a large investment of time.

How long will the new records stand? I guess we will have to wait to see. Last season sure produced more than a few giant whitetails. Maybe another one is out there waiting for you in 2022!

Venison is already delicious and nutritious in itself, but when mixed with pork fat, you can bring even more flavor out of your deer meat.

It’s especially great for burgers, meatloaf, meatballs, and every hunters favorite: snack sticks and sausage!

In this article I’ll go over the best pork-to-venison ratios, when you should mix with beef fat, and a few other helpful tips.

This page contains affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.

Table of Contents

• How Much Pork To Mix With Venison
• What Do You Mix With Deer When Grinding?
• Why Do You Mix Pork Fat With Deer Meat When Grinding?
• What Kind of Pork Do You Mix With Deer Meat?
• How Do You Mix Venison and Pork?
• Final Thoughts
• Sources

How Much Pork To Mix With Venison

You should mix roughly 30% pork fat with venison when making snack sticks, venison sausage should have up to 50% pork fat, and venison burgers and meatballs need only contain about 20% pork fat. The amount of pork fat you need to mix with venison varies depending on the dish you’re making.

What Do You Mix With Deer When Grinding?

You should mix pork and beef fat with deer when grinding. These act as binding agents and flavor enhancers during the grinding process to compensate for the low moisture content of the lean game meat.

The choice and amount of meat to be added typically varies by personal preference. However, it would be best to read up on established golden ratios and meat-venison mixtures to enjoy your favorite ground venison dishes.

You can opt to mix beef fat with venison to make a patty or meatloaf more cohesive or to enjoy juicy snack sticks that would instead feel dry if you stick with pure venison.

If you are sort of a food connoisseur, you may notice, though, that the overall texture and juiciness of the beef-venison combination lacks refinement, in which case, you may want to try mixing it with pork.

Ground pork fat functions similarly to beef fat when mixed with venison, although you might observe a more savory mix when using pork.

An essential factor to watch out for and consider would be the source of pork fat that you mix with venison.

For instance, fat from pork belly may contain too much flavor and could overpower the deer meat.

You will not want this if you are more inclined to highlight venison’s flavor than the former in the ground meat mix.

Meanwhile, opting for back fat may provide you with just the right chewy texture without compromising the authentic venison taste.

Why Do You Mix Pork Fat With Deer Meat When Grinding?

Mixing pork fat with venison provides moisture, flavor, and cohesion to your venison grounds and a soft texture that outperforms beef fat. Additionally, venison is generally lean meat, so it needs pork fat to bind the venison grounds together.

Otherwise, you may find yourself struggling to cook pure venison patties that easily break apart.

Purists may find this problematic, thinking that precious venison meat deserves to be enjoyed free from other types of red meat that are not as lean or healthy.

The thing about the lean nature of venison is that it makes it challenging to prepare several other meat-based dishes without compromising quality.

However, if only you can toss just the right amount of pork fat into your grinder, you can expect a marbly grind that closely resembles the most common patties – beef patties.

The combination of flavorful pork fat and venison also results in a delectable ground mix. When ground, the combination of juicy pork and deer meat leaves you satisfied while also free from the greasy after-taste that comes with, say, beef.

Sausages with the perfect pork fat to venison ratio coupled with the ideal preparation steps can leave you wanting more. Besides the seasoning added to the pork and venison mix, the pork fat itself already adds flavor to your deer meat.

The moisture extracted from different types of pork cuts, such as bacon and belly, makes the entire meal even more satisfying.

The lean nature of venison makes it quickly dry out during meal prep, so the extra fat accords you with the juiciness necessary to enjoy delicious – but dry – meat.

Imagine indulging in protein-rich, saporous venison snack sticks with a hint of bacon. It seems like it could not get any better.

What Kind of Pork Do You Mix With Deer Meat?

As mentioned earlier, to enhance the juiciness and taste of venison, a certain amount of pork fat is needed. So, it’s best to add pork cuts that contain high-fat content in your grind.

Deciding on the pork cut to use depends on the taste of the end product you want. Do you want to retain the gamey taste without the dryness, or would you prefer one with a hint of pork flavor?

You can mix deer meat with any kind of pork, including pork butts or shoulders or a higher fat pork belly. Butts and shoulders are milder in flavor, while pork belly gives you a more pronounced pork taste. It depends on your preference.

If you want the unadulterated taste of venison, grind it together with pork butts or shoulders. These pork cuts are located at the front end of the pig and contain high-fat contents.

However, if you don’t mind a more domesticated taste, go for the pork belly. This slightly more pricey cut is located in the pig’s underside and is where bacon comes from.

It also has a high-fat content and that distinct pork taste that will undoubtedly influence your venison grind.

Meanwhile, back fat provides your ground venison with a soft and chewy texture, perfect for sausages and meatballs.

How Do You Mix Venison and Pork?

To mix venison and pork, start by ensuring the meats are chilled. This will help with handling and grinding. Next, find a ratio of pork to venison that works for your tastes and then grind them separately before mixing them together into a uniform mound. Finally, add any spices at the end to taste.

The amount of pork you add with venison depends on the kind of meal you plan to prepare. You’ll want to experiment on the correct pork to venison ratio and source of pork fat that you will be using.

Different types of pork fat contain varying moisture and flavor, so consider this when deciding whether to opt for savory belly fat or the more low-key back fat.

For venison sausages, you would want a more fatty venison grind. As such, I suggest mixing at least 20% pork fat with 80% venison. Of course, you can go higher than this, depending on your taste.

Just remember that eating sausages with a fat content higher than 50% can make you feel lethargic.

Venison snack sticks are a versatile outdoor treat typically marketed to hunters that may coincidentally hunt for game. If you want to have that extra money for that cool new hunting gear, you can save on buying snack sticks by making them on your own.

You can make venison snack sticks using 100% venison, but most prefer adding a little bit of pork into it (around 30%) to achieve a certain degree of juiciness. Just make sure you have the time to make them before your next hunt.

Lastly, if you’re into burgers, meatballs, and meatloaves, you may want to try burger patties made of venison. Again, you’ll just have to add a little bit of fat to prevent it from drying out and crumbling during the cooking process.

As with patties made of beef, the fat content is essential to grind the meat. Always remember that venison is leaner than beef, and you may want to add a little more fat than you would wish to on your beef patties.

The safe bet is to go for 20% fat to make the taste of your patties richer.

Pro Tip: I always prefer to grind my venison semi-frozen, after it’s been thawed out. This keeps the meat cold, and prevents your grinds from getting too wet or juicy,

Final Thoughts

One of the most rewarding aspects of hunting is the processing of your own game meat. I highly recommend you give it a try.

You May Also Like: Buck, Buck, Moose: Wild Game Cook Book

If you prefer to use your local game processor or butcher, that’s fine too. Just ask them to add some pork fat to your ground venison, and you’ll have a versatile ingredient that can replace nearly any ground beef recipe.

Thanks for reading!

See Also: Why Eating Does Vension Sometimes Give Me Gas?

• Neem Oil Deer Repellent: Does It Really Work?
• Is It Okay To Burn Bark In a Wood Stove?
• Do Deer Eat Morel Mushrooms?
• How To Properly Dispose of Wood Stove Ashes (Safely!)
• Is Fatwood Safe for Wood Stoves? Here’s What You Should Know
• Is Beaver Good to Eat? You May Be Surprised!
• Is Bread Bad For Deer? Here’s What You Should Know
• Are Roosters Good to Eat?
• 3 Easy Ways To Tell If Your Wood Stove Is Leaking

Sources

• Fox Valley Foodie: How To Butcher a Deer – Grinding Venison
• Legendary Whitetails: The Key to Crafting a Better Venison Burger
• Allied Kenco Sales: Wild Game Sausage Making Information Sheet
• Nassau Foods: Preparing the Perfect Venison
• Home Kitchen Talk: Pork to Venison Ratio for Summer Sausage
• Home Kitchen Talk: How Much Pork Fat to Add to Venison Sausage?
• North American Whitetail: How to Grind Whitetail Deer Venison

The best snow goose loads are those that perform well across a wide range of conditions and provide knock down power to harvest birds cleanly. With snow goose hunting, these factors almost always come down to shot size selection.

The best shot size for snow geese is BBB steel shot. Why? Because a good patterning load of BBB steel shot contains enough pattern density and energy to consistently harvest snow geese at up to 50 yards or more. A 1.5 ounce load of BBB shot contains 91 pellets and enough energy density to retain at least 300 feet per second (FPS) out to 55 yards. My favorite load is the Kent 1 9/16 oz. BBB load.

In this guide, we’ll take a look at some of most popular shot sizes for geese and discuss what makes BBB steel shot the most effective.

Most Popular Shot Sizes for Snow Geese

Steel shot size selection for snow geese can range anywhere from #2 shot all the way up to T-shot. With such a wide range of shot sizes, it can be confusing when trying to determine which shot size is the best. The typical shot sizes for snow geese are #2’s, #1’s, BB shot, BBB shot, and T shot.

Shot Size/Pellets Per Ounce/Max Distance

• #2 shot – 124 pellets – 40 yards
• #1 shot – 102 pellets – 43 yards
• BB shot – 72 pellets – 45 yards
• BBB shot – 61 pellets – 50 yards (Best Shot Size)
• T shot – 52 pellets – 55 yards

Snow geese aren’t the toughest of birds, so cleanly harvesting them doesn’t require large shot sizes. I’ve even used #4 shot on snow geese that were decoying close and it worked perfectly fine.

The problem with small shot though is that it doesn’t work well as an all-around pellet size. Most snow goose hunts require varying degrees of distance, angles, and other factors that work against your load the second it leaves your barrel.

Related: Need a new choke tube? Check out the list of the top performers here.

I’ve found BBB steel shot the best combination of pellet density and energy down range to cover just about any shot you should be taking within reason. It has the range for both decoying birds and those hanging up on the edge of the spread that won’t fully commit. BBB shot also has the energy to cleanly pass through snow geese resulting in less cripples and sailer’s that you have to waste time chasing.

Why BBB Steel Shot Is the Best Shot Size for Snow Geese

When you sit down and compare BBB steel shot to other shot sizes, the differences are noticeable.

• BBB shot contains 61 pellets per ounce, or around 91 pellets for a 1.5 ounce load. This is plenty of pellets for a dense 40-50 yard pattern through an aftermarket choke.
• Larger shot like BBB retain enough energy for shots around 50 yards or more allowing you to harvest more birds.
• The energy density of large BBB pellets insures that birds will be harvest cleaner and reduce the amount of wounded birds.
• BBB shot gives you the most opportunity to harvest snow geese as it’s ballistically superior for constantly changing hunting conditions.

Here is a great clip on how to pick the right pellet size for snow geese

Features to look for in the best snow goose shotgun shell loads:

• Adequate pellet densities for the situation you’ll be hunting in. If you only shoot decoying snow geese, then the high pellet density loads of #1 shot will work well. For an all-around snow goose load, BBB’s work the best.
• Shotgun shells above 1400fps work better. The best loads are 1600 fps or higher with steel shot.
• Loads that pattern well with your shotgun.
• Zinc coated pellets for corrosion resistance.
• Sealed crimps to prevent water intrusion.
• Hulls that cycle well with your shotgun. Some work better than others.
• If you’re looking for the best snow goose ammo, check out our top picks here.

Popular 3 inch and 3.5 inch Waterfowl Ammo

About Pellet Sizes and Pellet Density When Choosing a Goose Load

Pellet size and density are both factors you should consider when choosing which snow goose load to shoot for the spring conservation season. An increase in pellet density will result in a decrease in pellet size and an increase in pattern density.

Example: If you normally shoot BB steel shot, you can switch to #4 Hevishot for a load that has similar ballistics in both range and pellet energy, while gaining 120 pellets.

Steel Shot Vs. High Density Shot – Which is better?

• Steel Shot – Steel shot density is 7.9 g/cc and is the cheapest snow goose load you can buy. It works well for decoying birds, but lacks long range capabilities.
• High Density Shot – High Density Shot comes in a wide range of materials and alloys that include Bismuth, Hevishot Alloy (Nickel, Tungsten, Iron), and Tungsten. High Density Shot is basically any shotgun pellet heavier than steel. Pellet densities range from 9 g/cc to 18 g/cc. High density pellets are the best shot type for long distance goose loads.

I’ve used both steel shot and high density loads for snow geese and my preference is high density. Why? Because the pattern density and range of heavier than lead loads is unmatched.

Steel shot is currently the lightest material used for harvesting waterfowl in the U.S. and it loses its energy really quickly down range. It also requires larger pellet sizes to retain energy, which decreases pattern density.

The best thing about steel shot is that it’s affordable and if you go through a ton of shells each season it’s more economical.

High density loads like Hevishot, Bismuth, and TSS are ballistically superior to steel in every way. Since the pellets weigh more, you can get the same ballistics out of smaller pellets, thus increasing your pattern density and putting more pellets on the birds.

High density loads pattern tighter, hold their pattern longer, and let you extend your range further out so you can cleanly harvest birds that hang up just out of range of steel shot. The major downside is cost, as Tungsten based loads are considerably more expensive than steel shot.

If money is no concern, high density shot makes for the best snow goose loads you can use. I’ve written about my top 10 tips for having a good snow goose hunt, and shooting high density loads is an important factor.

The Gaining Popularity of High Density Shot for Goose Hunting

When lead shot was outlawed for waterfowl hunting in the 1970’s, the only other option at the time was steel shot. Since then, shotgun shells for waterfowl have drastically improved to provide dependable loads that work well across a wide range of waterfowl hunting situations.

This year is no different, and the gaining popularity of high density loads for geese is now greater than ever. Between Hevishot, TSS, and Rio Bismuth shot, there’s a high density load that fits almost everyone’s budget and hunting needs.

As high density loads become even more popular, I expect the options to increase even further. High density loads are superior to steel shot in every way. Spend one season shooting it exclusively and it’s difficult to go back to steel shot.

But if you must shoot steel shot for snow geese, try BBB on your next hunt and see how it performs for you. I’ve shot many cases of it, as well as other steel shot sizes, and it is the best all-around pellet size I’ve found. If you want to try high density shot, try Hevishot #2’s for the best snow goose load ever made.

The quality of crab traps for sale online is pitiful, to say the least. So-called “Best Seller” crab traps on Amazon and other online retailers will either fall apart or not hold blue crabs. As somebody who has spent a bit too much on crabbing gear, I’m here to tell you the difference between a good and bad blue crab trap.

When you’re buying crabbing gear, you need to know what to look for in a trap. A great crab trap has quality material, a good design, and is built to last. I’ve used so many traps that were plainly built to fail. For each trap on this list (The conventional crab pot, box traps, ring nets, and hand lines), I will point out what will make or break a crab trap. All of this is based on past experience.

Disclaimer: This article is filled with Amazon and eBay Affiliate Links. As an affiliate for these sites, I receive a small commission for any purchase driven through my link at no extra cost to the buyer. Thank you for supporting my website. I’ll mark each affiliate link with “(Affiliate link).”

Two-Compartment Crab Pot

A crab pot is what you usually think of when you think of crabbing. It’s the type of trap you see on shows such as Deadliest Catch. I have to say that I’m disappointed with the quality of crab pots online for blue crabs. More often than not, they are very low-quality and in limited stock. This is why I buy my traps custom-made.

Through recommendations of other watermen, I have found that they have the most luck through custom trap builders. Kcrabpots, a user on eBay.com, has been building and selling quality crab pots since 2002! This is the only crab pot builder for blue crabs I’m confident in recommending. Click here to find kcrabpots on eBay. You can navigate to his store via the Visit Store button on his about page.

I wrote a review of this crab pot, which you can read here. It’s my favorite crab pot I’ve bought out of the several others I wasted hundreds of dollars on. If you want to learn from my mistakes and save your money, I recommend you read why I love this pot.

When buying a crab pot, manufacturer’s usually get two things wrong: the strength of the wire mesh and the shape of the openings.

The image above is my failed purchase of a crab pot. It was $60 down the drain! It was made out of cheap coated chicken wire that I could easily bend, and I’m not a very strong guy! Crabs had no problem clawing their way out of the sides.

Far too often, this is the case for crab pots. However, one thing this manufacturer did get right was the trap’s openings (sort of!). They came slanted upward with enough room for a crab to easily slide into the trap, but not escape. The only problem was that the openings were made of the same low-quality wire mesh. So, the crabs had no problem bending the metal and finding their way out of the trap.

To be frank, I believe it’s best to buy a crab pot either in person or from a reputable builder. Far too often, the traps at Bass Pro Shops or other retailers, like this one, just will not work.

You will also need a crab pot harness and weighted rope with a buoy for your crab pot. I’ve found Promar sells a reliable harness. I recommend weighted rope over anything else because the slack will not float to the surface and get caught by a passing boat.

If you do go the crab pot route, be sure to check your state’s crabbing regulations. States, such as Maryland, require that you register your pot at their DNR webpage. Maryland also requires that you install a turtle excluder device on each crab pot opening.

Box Traps (My favorite crab trap)

Box traps are one of the two collapsible traps recommended in this article. A collapsible trap is a type crab trap that has to be actively triggered to trap blue crabs, unlike the more passive crab pot. This works as a great alternative for those who do not have access to a boat, do their crabbing from piers, or cannot legally use a crab pot in their state.

In my opinion, the best model of the box trap is the FoxyMate Topless Crab Trap (link to an article dedicated to this crab trap). I wrote an entire articlde dedicated to this trap, so click the link to read more about it.

If you start to do research on crab traps you may get overwhelmed at the sheer number of different versions available. There are pyramid traps, box traps, topless box traps, crab pots, ring nets, and plenty more. Forget all of these terms because they aren’t important. The only trap you should get a crabber is a Foxy-Mate Topless Crab Trap.

Here’s a picture of me holding up a crab I caught in my friend’s Foxy-Mate 66 Crab Trap (Affiliate link to Amazon). It’s not the Topless Foxy-Mate (Amazon Affiliate Link) version that I like best, but it still does the job. I like the topless version because you can stack them like cups for much easier storage. I took this picture on Taylor’s Island, MD. It was a female blue crab, so I had to throw it back.

Foxy-Mates are the ideal crab trap for anyone crabbing for Blue Crabs. If you live on the East Coast, from Texas to Maine, this includes you. They’re legal in every state on the coast and don’t come with pages long of regulations like crab pots do. Plus, they’re much cheaper! They work from a pier and from a boat or kayak, you will just need to get a buoy, some rope, and possibly a crab trap weight for anyone crabbing from a boat. The weight keeps their trap from being tossed around by the current, but it’s only necessary for crabbing in the ocean or rougher waters.

I did some digging on the internet and found that Amazon has the best prices for all of the items I mentioned. Foxy-Mates (Affiliate Link to Amazon) go in and out of stock on Amazon, but that’s because they sell for the best price here. I recommend the Foxy-Mates without a top so you can stack them like cups. You will want two or three so your crabber friend can catch more crabs at once. I usually take 6 out when I’m crabbing from my kayak.

With each trap, you’re going to need a buoy if you’re crabbing from a boat or kayak. States have different rules when it comes to buoys, so I would look at the ones they already have before making a purchase. You can read about your state’s gear guidelines on my State-By-State Crabbing Regulations page.

It never hurts to get more rope either. You can get fancy and order lead-lined rope for these traps (Affiliate link to Amazon). It’s useless if you’re crabbing from a pier, but if you’re using these traps from a boat it’s really helpful. This rope sinks with the trap, rather than float at the surface, which prevents it from getting caught in boat propellers.

With this trap, you’re going to want a weight if they are crabbing in rougher waters. I always recommend this Crab Trap Weight (Affiliate Link to Amazon) that you can zip tie to a Foxy-Mate. Tip: You can get away with zip-tie-ing some cut rebar to the trap as well, which is much cheaper.

I’ll briefly go over why I like this trap. I can sum it up in one sentence: It’s built to last a very long time and has no trouble catching blue crabs.

The trap works by laying flat with bait in the center to attract crabs. You can fasten your choice of bait with the spring at the center of the trap. When a crab tries to eat the bait, you pull on the harness to fold the cage’s doors upward and trap the poor crab.

It’s a great alternative to a crab pot, and much cheaper! It just takes active participation fro the crabber.

The only problem with this model of topless crab traps is that they are in short supply. They sporadically pop up on eBay or Amazon. If that’s the case, you may have to use a more-available FoxyMate box trap with the top. I find the topless version better because it’s stackable. It’s not more effective at catching crabs, just more convenient.

Hand-Lines (The beginner-friendly budget trap!)

Last up on this list is the basic Hand-Line, also known as a throw-line. It’s a step up from using plain old string and a net to catch blue crabs, as people have been doing for centuries.

They work by luring crabs to a piece of bait secured to some string. When the crab finds the bait, slowly pull the bait towards you with the attached string. Once it’s in view, scoop up the crab with a dip net.

The concept is as simple as this trap. It’s a clip to better secure your bait with a built-in weight so the line goes further out in the water. This won’t limit you to plain old chicken necks, which are easiest to tie to some string.

I’ve found that when it comes to hand lines, the cheapest options do the trick. I recommend this Hand Line on Amazon (Affiliate Link). I was surprised at how many I could buy on this Amazon listing for such a low price, which is great because you need around 6 hand lines at a time to catch a decent amount of crabs.

I was surprised at what a good price his dip net was on Amazon, for a high-quality tool (Affiliate Link). If not this one, make sure to get a net with a similar mesh that’s small. I’ve found that with wider-spaced nets, crabs like to cling on for dear life which makes them annoying to deal with.

Traps I Would Avoid

There are so many traps on the internet that websites recommend to beginner crabbers because they don’t know any better! Don’t get tricked and waste your money.

Ring Nets (A worse version of the box trap for the same price!)

A ring net is a circular net that lays flat on the bottom until you pull on its string. When you do, it takes the shape of something like a basket, trapping any poor crab caught in the middle. You’ll find these traps on clearance at your local Walmart or bait shop since no one wants them!

If you’re going to use a collapsible trap like this, stick with a box trap. They’re more durable and reliable at catching crabs for the same price.

If you do end up using this trap, my recommendation of ring nets for blue crabs is the Hurricane Two-Ring Net (Affiliate Link). I’ve found that this is the highest-quality ring net on the market for the lowest price. It’s much cheaper than any box trap or crab pot and perfect for some hands-on crabbing.

The Hurricane Two-Ring Net is durable. Instead of the more common cotton netting ring nets that many beginner crabbers get sucked into buying, this net is made of wire mesh. While any cotton mesh net will fall apart after one or two crabbing trips, the Hurricane will stay together.

A few downsides with this ring net are the harness and lack of bait clip. The harness is made out of pretty cheap cotton string that I recommend replacing with a more durable string. Pormar made a harness for crab pots that should work perfectly here, click here to check it out on Amazon (Affiliate Link).

This ring net has no place to put your bait. Bait that gets lost in the current or stolen by crabs can ruin a crabbing trip. I’ve had some luck using a few zip ties to tie down chicken or fish (depending on what I’m using that day) to the center of the net.

One problem I’ve found with this trap is that the S-ring at the top of the harness will sometimes get caught in the wire mesh. This will prevent the net from creating a hoop-shape when you pull it up, which lets any crab in the middle to get away! I never have this problem with a box trap!