You’ve likely heard of a morel mushroom, but what’s the deal with the “fake” one? And, why does it matter? If you’re new to morel foraging, you’ll want to fully understand all the look-alikes. And, sadly, there isn’t just one. There’s actually several morel look-alikes that are called false morels.

Jump to:

• What Is A False Morel?
• False Morel Mushroom Facts
• How to Identify the False Morel Mushroom
• A False Morel Quiz:
• Be Safe
• Who’s Eating These Mushrooms….and Why?

What Is A False Morel?

The term “false morel” encompasses a number of different species including Gyromitra esculenta (the beefsteak mushroom), Gyromitra caroliniana, and others in the Verpa and Helvella genera. They are often mistaken for the edible delicacies in the Morchella genus (true morels).

The false morels include some poisonous mushrooms that contain the chemical monomethyl hydrazine (MMH). MMH causes vomiting, dizziness, diarrhea, and sometimes death. Furthermore, MMH is suspected to be carcinogenic. (Read more and, here)

“But wait,” you ask, “haven’t I heard of people eating these mushrooms with no ill effect?”

You probably have. Many people have eaten them and even hunt for them specifically. It may surprise you that Gyromitra esculenta is considered a delicacy in parts of the United States and in parts of Scandinavia. You can buy them in Finland, where they come with preparation instructions.

So what’s the problem? One danger is the varying levels of MMH in different gyromitra mushrooms. Some species contain very little, others contain enough to kill. MMH levels also vary among geographic regions within a single species. Nobody knows how toxic any false morel will be in any location.

Let’s learn more about the fake morel. We’ll start with some facts, move on to identification, and finally take a look at who eats these mushrooms. For a more complete list of straight morel mushroom hunting tips click here.

False Morel Mushroom Facts

• Most gyromitra appear in the spring and summer and grow directly on the ground. Although some are found on wood or later in the year, they are unlikely to be mistaken for true morels.
• Caps are usually brown or reddish-brown and occasionally yellow. Most stems are a light color, ranging from white to tan.
• These mushrooms are considered saprotrophs, meaning they feed on dead and decaying organic matter. Some have suggested that they may be mycorrhizal as well (forming a symbiotic relationship with trees).
• Like true morels, false ones are often found in areas where the forest floor has been disrupted. You’re more likely to see them near washes, rivulets, man-made disturbances in the ground, and roadsides.
• Some species that are considered false are Gyromitra esculenta, Gyromitra caroliniana (above), Gyromitra infula, Verpa bohemica, and Verpa conica.
• There are many common names associated with the more commonly foraged false morels, including beefsteaks and calf’s brain. Beefsteak is also the common name for another edible mushroom, which is VERY confusing. Common names are tricky,; be sure you are firm on your identifications and understanding!

How to Identify the False Morel Mushroom

So how do you tell a true morel from a false one? Observe the following:

• Make note of the cap shape. The false caps that are “wavy” or “lobed”. They appear to be bulging outwards. True morels have a more uniformly shaped cap with pits or ridges. The true morel cap looks like honeycomb with pits angled inwards rather than bulging.
• The cap of the false mushroom hangs freely from the stem. A true morel has a cap that will be attached to the stem. This is not always the case but more often than not it is.
• If you slice an edible morel open from top to bottom it will be hollow inside. A non-edible one will usually be filled with wispy cotton-like fibers or chunks of tissue. (Fabulous example of this on the right).

Go here for a more in-depth article, including a handy chart, on how to tell a true morel mushroom from a false morel.

Always consult a local expert if you’re inexperienced or uncertain. Never eat a mushroom-based solely on mushroom pictures that you’ve seen on the Internet! This goes for ALL mushrooms, not just morels or false morels.

If you feel sick or dizzy after eating what you thought was an edible morel, seek help immediately!

Who’s Eating These Mushrooms….and Why?

The picture at the right shows false morels for sale at a market in Helsinki, Finland. People in other parts of Europe and parts of the United States eat them as well. They often come with warnings and preparation instructions.

While some false morels are prepared simply, others must be boiled 2-3 times to remove toxins before they are safe to eat. Through boiling, the toxins are reduced and the mushrooms become edible. This practice of double (or triple) boiling has been used for centuries to make the mushroom safe to eat.

However, studies show that MMH is a cumulative toxin. This means that its levels will build up in your body after repeated consumption. This could lead to illness or even death. Please, keep that in mind before eating. It may be that there isn’t much of a danger since rarely is a person eating enough of these mushrooms to cause extreme danger, but it’s possible. More studies need to be done with humans first.

Plenty of people eat these for years with no problems. But do you want to risk it? Personally, since no one knows exactly how toxic any given mushroom will be, we think it’s best to just avoid them altogether.

Many gyromitra enthusiasts will disagree, and that’s fine. We always err on the side of caution. The choice is yours, ultimately, so do your research well before eating. There’s a great active community on Facebook called False Morels Demystified which explores eating and safe preparations. They are a wealth of information for the curious.

Some years back, I was invited to hunt rabbits with a group of dedicated houndsmen who loved to run (and shoot) rabbits with their beagles. The day had been a relative success with our group scoring on about 18 rabbits for the day. For my personal efforts, I had managed to pull the trigger on a small number of the critters, missing a couple and accounting for a few in the final bag. The hunt had reminded me how enjoyable a small-game hunt can be—no stressed strategizing to score on the biggest racked trophy around or overly tactical effort like calling a longbeard to the gun—just trying to nab game as it appeared for the sake of shooting and adding to the bag limit. The whole experience left me wanting more.

The problem was, I didn’t have a pack of beagles. But I knew some places where I had frequently seen rabbits, both on my farm and my brother’s, so I decided to set off for some brush with a shotgun stoked with No. 6s draped across the crook of my arm. The results were surprising. While I didn’t bag as many rabbits on that first solo effort due to some tricky shooting, I scared up a lot more than I had expected. The effort opened up a new world of hunting to me. With rabbit season where I live running well into February, long after most other seasons have closed, it’s a great opportunity to grab another day or two of time outdoors and, with a little effort, enjoy a bit of exercise that typically results in more meat for stews or to accompany a side dish of risotto.

Whether you’re hunting solo or with a buddy or two, hunting rabbits without hounds is a relatively simple affair with good odds for success. Rabbits are abundant anywhere wild cover is available, meaning you are almost certain to find game. Here’s how to score on your own rabbit adventures.

Find ‘Em FirstRabbits don’t travel far between cover and food so one of the best places to find them is in thick, brushy areas right next to where they like to eat—open grassy areas with clovers and broadleaf weeds, or crop fields that have been planted in soybeans, peanuts, wheat, alfalfa and the like. Brushy patches of blackberries, honeysuckle, blueberry and other viney, tangled brush provide great cover for animals where they can feed without fear of being nabbed by avian predators. Brushy ditches and fencerows through fields, as well as brush piles and windrows, also provide excellent havens.

In the deep winter chill, brushy areas on south-facing slopes (or in flat-land the side of cover facing the sun) can be more productive, as rabbits will slip to the edge of their hideout and sun themselves for warmth.

In many areas where deer hunters have worked to establish lush, green plots to attract whitetails, you’ll find the overgrown edges bordering these deer magnets will also harbor a nice population of bunnies. The brushier the borders around these open areas, the better. Rabbits will also grow thick in overgrown clearcuts that have repopulated with small saplings that provide abundant twigs and bark for rabbits to chew on.

Gearing UpIt doesn’t take much to pull off a rabbit hunt, but a few key items will certainly make it more successful and comfortable for you. Some guys are content to sit at field edges at dawn or dusk, looking to snipe a few targets as they appear to feed, and for that, a precision-scoped .22 is ideal. This is a fine way to hunt them that will definitely produce, but after a season of sitting in a stand for whitetails, I personally don’t want to sit and wait for rabbits. I want to go after them and kick them up, which means using the scattergun. A 12-gauge remains the most versatile game gun for any sportsman, and without a doubt, serves the rabbit hunter ably, but I prefer a lighter, more compact 20-gauge for tromping brush and swinging in cover. The smaller, well-pointed charge, loaded with No. 6 shot is more than ample for rabbits.

Because you will likely be traipsing through thick, briar-laced cover to kick these creatures into the open, your legs will take some abuse. For this, a good pair of vinyl-faced brush pants or heavy chaps are a must, along with light, but durable boots with leather or Cordura uppers for walking. I like an old-style canvas upland game jacket too, with a lined nylon game pouch built into the rear for toting a brace as you collect the small treasures. A small backpack can also do the trick for keeping your hands free for more shooting.

When hunting with others, safety orange vests and/or hats are a really good idea, too, since hunters are generally obscured by the thick cover in which rabbits are found, yet are in close proximity to each other while hunting them.

Walk ‘Em UpMy favorite and most productive hunts are in spots where the brush is no more than waist-high and surrounded by relatively open ground that a bolting rabbit has to cross for an exposed shot. With your shotgun at the ready, simply plunge in and slowly walk a zigzag pattern—keeping your eyes alert for flashes of brown—and listen for scurrying ahead of you. Pause frequently, creating an almost herky-jerky approach that will leave rabbits guessing which way you are about to go and making them nervous. A nervous rabbit is one ready to move. I like to walk slowly for about 10 to 15 paces and then pause 20 to 30 seconds before moving on. This seems to work well. When working overgrown cutovers, look for areas that are no more than two to three years old. More than that, and they will be so grown up that while they’ll harbor plenty of rabbits, seeing and shooting them may be next to impossible.

A hunter can walk plenty of rabbit-rich brush, but if it is so thick he can’t see more than a few feet in front of him, then it will be a lot of wasted effort. Like the smaller patches of brush and tangles of honeysuckle and briars I prefer to hit, other good spots that offer the perfect blend between hideout and visibility include fencerows and ditches in fields as well as brush piles pushed up at the edge of open woods. Whether hunting rabbits or other species, I try to note these high-production spots throughout the season and return to them time and again when hunting for rabbits.

If hunting with partners, take turns with one guy working brush in this manner, while the others post slightly ahead, repositioning quietly and frequently as you progress. When hunting in pairs, hunters can also flank each other, standing 15 to 20 yards apart depending on the amount of brush they’re working, and alternate walking ahead of each other and pausing.

Hunting rabbits is really no more difficult than that—its simplicity in approach and execution, a big part of what makes it so much fun.

By Wayne van Zwoll

The idea for a short-action cartridge rivaling .30-06 performance has been around since before the Depression. But once the M1 Garand carried us through World War II, military circles took up the short-.30 banner with an experimental infantry round.

The T65 was essentially a .30-06 with a shorter 51mm rather than 63mm case. In a fit of brilliance, Winchester snatched the design for its hunting roster and in 1952 dubbed it the .308. Two years later the U.S. Army adopted the 7.62×51 cartridge and urged its acceptance by NATO, which complied in 1957.

Its debut in our M14 infantry arm, then in rifles and machine guns abroad, ensured a future for the 7.62×51 NATO. When the M16 replaced the M14 in the Vietnam War during the 1960s (read my article comparing 5.56 NATO vs. .223 here), production of 7.62x51mm ammunition continued.

National Match loads fueled by 41.7 grains IMR 4895 kicked 174-gr. BTHP bullets to 2,548 fps. Tracer, frangible, armor-piercing and grenade-launching loads followed.

To hunters, infantry cartridges have all the cachet of beige filing cabinets. While the .308’s short stature, light weight, low case cost and function in self-loading guns initially served military interests, sportsmen of that day were more seduced by new belted magnums. Utility, like wisdom, can be an acquired taste.

A Second Look

But the .308 soon earned plaudits afield. Commercial makers began to chamber bolt-action, lever-action, pump-action and autoloaders in the round.

The .308 case holds 20 percent less powder than a .30-06, and about 40 percent more than a .30-30. It has roughly half the capacity of a .300 Weatherby Magnum.

Traditional loads sent 150-gr. softpoints at 2,820 fps, 90 fps shy of listed speed for those bullets in a .30-06 but 190 fps faster than their exit from the old .300 Savage round.

Seth Swerzcek at Hornady tells me its top-selling .308 load is still the 150-gr. SST, albeit Superformance ammo with 165-gr. InterBonds at 2,840 fps brings more muscle.

Bench Rest shooters embraced the .308. With it, Dave Hall drilled a .4612 knot to win the Sporter class at the 1967 National Matches. In ‘68, Ferris Pindell won with a .3594 group from his .308.

Meanwhile, the round was proving itself in military circles internationally as the 7.62×51 NATO.

What’s the Difference?

One of the biggest questions when comparing the 7.62 vs. 308 is “what’s the difference?”

The cases are identical — same 2.015 length, 20-degree shoulder, .473 rim. Body and neck are the same. Cartridges are loaded to the same 2.800 overall length.

Of course, loads can differ. Military units and LE agencies may specify bullets of limited use to hunters, and port pressures to operate service rifles.

“We use the same brass and primers for commercial and service-contract ammo,” says Swerzcek. “Typically, Hornady recommends loads for a contract. Officials approve or tweak specs. We hew to them.”

Standards of both rounds are governed by SAAMI and its European equivalent, CIP.

“Wait!” you howl. Maximum average breech pressures differ, with the .308 having the higher range. Gunsmithing instructor Fred Zeglin notes different measuring methods can yield such disparities. Swerzcek agrees.

“The first 7.62×51 NATO pressures were retrieved by copper crusher. Current piezo-electric reads on .308 ammo are more precise and repeatable, often higher.”

Jeff Hoffman at Black Hills Ammunition notes differences in measurement location. “Pressures for the 7.62×51 NATO may be taken at the case mouth instead of mid-case. We check production at both places, commonly seeing slightly lower values at the mouth.”

He also says velocities for the 7.62×51 NATO are often taken 78 feet from the muzzle, not SAAMI’s standard 15. “A small difference, but important if you’re loading thousands of rounds to exacting standards.”

What about maximum horizontal range? It’s listed at 4,500 yards for the .308, and 5,500 for the 7.62×51. “Different bullets in the trials,” say ballisticians. At extreme range, ballistic coefficient rules.

SAAMI diagrams show a headspace measure of 1.630 to 1.640 for the .308. A Frankfurt Arsenal diagram indicates a range of 1.628 to 1.634 for the 7.62×51 NATO cartridge case, while JGS reamers are held to 1.630-.640 for the .308 and 7.62×51 NATO. Barrel-maker John Krieger tells me even his reamers with special-order throats hew to SAAMI headspace specs.

Freebore and leade angle are where .308 and 7.62×51 NATO chambers seem to differ. For .308s, JGS shows .900 freebore of .3100 diameter, with a 1-45 leade angle. Chambers in 7.62×51 NATO are cut with 1.355 of 3.095 freebore, a 5-40 leade angle. Government diagrams confirm that steep leade.

A New Twist?

A common twist for both cartridges is the original 1-in-12. For the leggy bullets popular now, faster spin is common. Krieger uses and has rifled barrels 1-in-11 for high-power competition, with bullets as heavy (long) as 220-gr. MatchKings.

Dave Tooley’s Bench Rest experience nudges him toward modest spin rates. Having chambered more than 7,000 barrels, he likes 1-in-12 twist even for long-range bullets. “An exceptional 1-in-14 Hart barrel held half-minute accuracy with flat-base 187s at 1,000 yards.”

Hornady ballistician Scott Javins agrees with Tooley that targets tell the story. But he understands shooters choosing sharper spin.

“They heed caveats from bullet-makers, and gyroscopic stability values.” GS, he explains, responds dramatically to higher spin rates. “A 168-gr. ELD Match at 2,546 fps from a .308 barrel with 1-in-11¼ rifling spins at 162,960 rpm. GS: 2.08. The same bullet sent at 2,528 fps from a 1-in-8 bore spins at 223,830 rpm. GS: 4.11.”

He adds that GS disparities may not show up on targets or game at ordinary ranges.

Which Is Better: 7.62 or .308?

While the 7.62×51 NATO designation remains common in military circles and abroad, it’s all but gone from commercial loads stateside with just a few offerings here and there. The .308, however, dominates ammo rosters, with 79 loads from five U.S. ammo makers. Federal catalogs 24 loads, Hornady 17. Even Norma of Sweden has seven loads, more than for any other cartridge in its line. No centerfire round is chambered in more rifles worldwide.

What’s the Bottom Line?

All modern .308 rifles can chamber and shoot modern .308 and 7.62 NATO ammunition without any problems, such as the SAINT Victor .308 rifles. The 7.62 NATO M1A can also safely fire both rounds.

If you plan on using a surplus rifle chambered in either .308 Win or 7.62 NATO, you should have the gun’s headspace checked by a professional to ensure you can safely shoot .308 ammunition. You can also check this on your own with quality Go-NoGo headspace gauges.

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Tincturing is the use of alcohol to remove and ultimately preserve the medicinal compounds found in an herb or mushroom. Since chaga has both water- and alcohol-soluble compounds, a proper extraction will include both methods, called a “double extraction.” Adopted from Mushrooms for Health: Medicinal Secrets of Northeastern Fungi by Greg Marley.

Ingredients:

• Dried chaga, chopped or ground as finely as possible
• Grain alcohol (ethanol) or vodka (100 proof or higher)
• Spring water or distilled water

Equipment:

• Stainless steel or enameled cooking pot or a slow cooker (e.g. Crock pot)
• Cheesecloth
• Glass jars with clean, tight lids
• Liquid measuring cup with clearly marked graduations
• Chef’s thermometer with probe – optional

Step 1: Alcohol Extraction

Dried chaga should be crushed or otherwise reduced into the smallest pieces possible, using a hammer, mortar/pestle, or meat grinder. The resultant dry material should be placed in a glass jar and covered completely with alcohol, capped, and placed in a dark space away from direct sunlight. Shake or stir the material every few days, adding alcohol as needed to keep the chaga covered. After 2 to 4 weeks strain the mixture through several layers of cheesecloth and keep both the alcohol portion (tincture) and solid portion (marc).

Step 2: Hot-Water Decoction

Place the marc portion in a pot or slow cooker and cover with just enough water to submerge it. Cook uncovered for two or more hours at just below boiling, adding water as necessary while the mixture reduces. Cool and strain the resulting marc, keeping the liquid portion (decoction).

Step 3: Mixing the Finished Tincture

Measure the volume of your liquid extracts (both the alcohol tincture and decoction). The final tincture product should be at least 25 percent alcohol for proper preservation, so knowing the proof used in the initial alcohol tincture prep is important. For example, if you used 100 proof vodka (which is 50 percent alcohol) and ended up with 12 ounces of tincture, half of that volume is pure alcohol (or 6 ounces). Therefore, the finished tincture in this instance would be 24 ounces; 6 ounces of alcohol, 6 ounces of water (from the initial alcohol tincture) and 12 ounces of decoction. Calculating the alcohol to water ratio needed for your final product is easiest if using pure liquor but can become confusing if using less concentrated alcohols. Keep the following equation in mind:

A + B + C = 4A

Where:

A = Volume of pure alcohol (Initial alcohol tincture volume X percent concentration of alcohol used)

B = Volume of water in initial alcohol tincture (Initial alcohol tincture volume – A)

C = Volume of decoction

4A = the maximum volume of the finished tincture resulting from the addition of the correct volume of decoction

As an example, if you began with 190 proof liquor resulting in 12 ounces of initial alcohol tincture volume, the mixture would be 95% alcohol, and your equation for determining the amount of decoction to add for the final product would be:

(12 x .95) + (12 – 11) + C = 4A, or

11 oz + 1 oz + C = 44 oz, solving for C gives us 32 oz.

Keep in mind when calculating the volume of total alcohol and have to round off the result, round down. In this instance the final amount of tincture is 44 oz, therefore requiring 32 oz of decoction be added to the 12 ounces of initial alcohol tincture volume, giving us the proper 75 percent water / 25 percent alcohol ratio.

Combine the correct amounts of initial alcohol tincture and decoction. Stir or gently shake the mixture prior to dividing it up into smaller containers. Store in a dark space. Tinctures will last for several years if properly made and stored.

By Jonathan Kilburn

The Hellcat is a formidable carry pistol that provides a compact carry option with exceptional performance. And since Springfield released the Hellcat OSP (Optical Sight Pistol) version along with the standard, its optics options have expanded quite a bit.

One of my favorite features has always been the iron sights that come standard on the pistol. The tritium/luminescent U-Dot sight picture makes the perfect daytime and nighttime set of irons for fast target acquisition.

But, as good as irons can be, as technology has advanced, the use of red dot pistol optics has gained in popularity. This could be because of the ability to gain fast target acquisition, having an illuminated sight, or even the moderately low cost compared to similar optics in the past. None of these are specific to the Hellcat, but a general statement for all pistols used in defensive applications.

No matter what the reason for wanting to explore and use red dot pistol mounted optics, there is no denying their ability to assist aiming. When defending oneself and others, milliseconds matter.

Topping It Off

Today, we are considering two Holosun micro red dots released in 2022 — the EPS and EPS Carry. Since then, it’s been requested in many gun shops across the country. There is a lot to like about these optics. Holosun has developed a reputation for good quality in their products, and the EPS and EPS Carry are no different.

The EPS family, which stands for “Enclosed Pistol Sight”, come from the factory with a host of features. Each model offers several different options. While standard shake awake features, 50k hour battery life, parallax free objective glass and other various features come standard on all, one of Holosun’s claim-to-fame offerings is the optional solar back-up.

General features of the line include CNC-machined 7075 aluminum housings, Shake Awake Technology with last setting recall, CR1620 battery offering up to 50,000 hours of continuous use, multi-coated lenses, IPX8 water and dust resistance, aspherical glass lenses, and good window sizes (0.90 x 0.63 on the larger EPS, and 0.77 x 0.58 on the smaller EPS Carry). Weight of the EPS is 1.4 oz., and the EPS Carry comes in at 1.23 oz.

Holosun EPS Carry Mounting Options

C&H Precision Weapons has been in the firearms industry for quite some time, with a focus on slide milling and optics mounting plates. Some of their biggest clients has been various federal law enforcement agencies. Currently, they have a large lineup of optics mounting plates that work with most of the big names in pistol-mounted optics.

There is no standard plate that comes with the EPS lineup that will fit directly to the Hellcat. Holosun has partnered with C&H Precision to offer a plate marrying these two powerhouses. A kit can be purchased directly from C&H that provides the plate, screws and red Loctite or alternative. FixIT sticks and torque limiters are recommended. Overall, installing the EPS Carry on the Hellcat using C&H Precision plates is straightforward and as simple as possible.

Off and On the Pistol

There is a difference between the EPS, and EPS Carry. Holosun sent one of each for photos and examination. The EPS we received did not have the solar backup system and featured a simple 6 MOA dot. The EPS Carry did have the solar backup and a 2 MOA dot with a 32 MOA circle. All options are available on both platforms. Side by side, the EPS is slightly larger than the Carry in overall width and height. While not a drastic difference on paper, it can make a difference on a micro-compact pistol.

The Hellcat is known for being one of the smallest micro-compact pistols with a larger-than-average capacity. Due to the overall size, the EPS Carry was mounted to the Hellcat OSP. Dimensionally, the EPS Carry is 1.09” wide and the EPS is 1.19” wide, while the Hellcat is reported to be exactly 1” wide. No matter which optic was chosen, it would protrude over the side of the rounded slide edge slightly.

When mounted, a full view of the iron sights was still possible. The EPS Carry had slight wings that helped to line up the iron sights while protecting the elevation adjustment knob. This was something missing from the EPS which offered a flat surface, despite the deck being the same height. For intended use on a Hellcat, I would lean toward the EPS Carry, and save the EPS for a larger pistol.

Drop Testing the Holosun EPS

7075 T6 aluminum makes up the overall housing on both models. They’re robust and lightweight without looking like a set of “birth control” glasses from the military. Despite the look, the real test represents how they perform after a drop.

No optic is designed for excessive drops. They will all fail at some point. So, the most realistic option for a drop test would be the most probable type of fall for a concealed carry pistol — from waist height to shoulder height. As the Hellcat itself has been well-tested for drops and falls, it deserves an optic that can match that.

Taking the EPS Carry, the sight was adjusted out to 25 yards while being mounted and matched to the factory irons for co-witness. Firing two magazines seemed enough for the first accuracy test. The upcoming goal wasn’t to be as accurate as possible, but to see if the reticle will drift after a fall.

From the Waist: I dropped the chamber-empty Hellcat OSP three times from waist high onto a hard — but not abrasive — surface. Physically, it appeared nothing was wrong with the optic, even cosmetically. The reticle did not move.

From the Chest: Moving to chest height, the pistol was again dropped three times onto compacted dirt at the range. No reticle movement was witnessed when firing. It appeared as if the housing was even tougher than advertised.

From the Shoulder: The final tests came from shoulder height. With an outstretched arm, the Hellcat was dropped onto a tiled floor three times, leaving some small dings and a few compacted pieces of rubber in the optic. I test-fired the pistol and noted no reticle movement. Next, the pistol was dropped on the compacted gravel roadway leading to the range from this height. The exterior of the optic had some impacts, with slightly marred rubber pieces. There was no intentional attempt to hit any specific area. The entire test also caused some cosmetic damage to my personal Hellcat.

After the shoulder height tests, the optic didn’t appear to have any issues with reticle movement. While no longer as pretty or “new,” the reticle didn’t move and the buttons were still fully operational with the glass intact. Anodized coatings are great, but not impact-proof.

Concealing the Hellcat and Holosun RDS

With a 1.09” width, it’s not hard to see why this is a perfect choice for concealed carry pistols. This minimal protrusion over the slide of the Hellcat is so small it’s barely noticeable. When tucked away in an IWB holster designed for an optic, the pistol was comfortable with little to no noticeable difference. However, not all holsters used were able to secure the Hellcat with the optic attached. Some of these were just too narrow to even adapt that extra .09 inches of width over the slide.

When looking for a holster for any pistols with mounted optics, it’s best to find one with an open top adaptable for any width pistol optic.

EPS Carry Review — Conclusion

Both the EPS and EPS Carry are excellent pistol optics. The size, durability, and price are the perfect trifecta. When utilizing the EPS Carry, I found that it is not only exceptionally well built for the size, but the options available and solar back-up make it extremely appealing. To me, an adaptive solar back-up takes the worry out regarding the battery performance.

For me, the real stand-out feature with Holosun is the solar back-up. Ranging from an MSRP of $389 to $506, these Holosuns break the mold. For the Hellcat, an additional adaptor plate from C&H Precision Weapons also adds $50 MSRP. Overall, I think this makes for the perfect conceal carry combo.

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Because trophy bucks absolutely love the solitude and security of a swamp.

It hadn’t rained at all, but the foggy afternoon mist hung so thick around me that water clung to every branch, every blade of grass and every inch of this bowhunter’s body!

The thick stand of poplars took on a surreal look as every nook and cranny faded into that dreary gray, washed-out landscape. As I scanned the dense line of willows that marked the edge of the giant swamp, I caught myself wishing for darkness so I could slip out of this hell hole. What I saw next caused my heart to skip a beat.

Standing like statues just inside the impenetrable willows were two giant white-tailed bucks, both staring intently past my ambush toward the picked cornfield where several deer had already begun feeding. How the bucks had arrived at this spot undetected astonished me. They were only about 15 yards away wearing matching socks of heavy, wet mud well past their knees!

These trophy whitetails apparently bedded somewhere out in the center of this vast morass and were in no hurry to leave the safety of its confines before total darkness. All thoughts of warming up vanished as I slowly eased my longbow from its resting spot … The next move belonged to the deer.

For many long minutes, the bucks seemed frozen in time, standing stock-still at close range but barely visible through the 15 yards of soup to the densely woven clump of willows where they held their ground. That both deer were shooters was not in question. I couldn’t begin to count points given the situation, but even though they were well within range, I had no shot.

At one point, I considered grunting softly to try to spur some action, but abandoned the idea because I knew that at such close range both bucks would pinpoint me and the game would be over. Now, with darkness closing fast and few options open, I looked down for a split second to check the water pouring down the limbs and riser of my longbow, across the fingers of my shooting glove, and also matting my feathers tightly to the cedar shaft nocked to my bowstring. Getting off an accurate shot, even at close range, would be difficult!

Not that it mattered. For when I looked back toward the bucks, they had vanished! No sound, no movement … Maybe I had imagined it all, but the muddy trail leading into the depths of the huge swamp told the story. A pair of swamp bucks had outsmarted me again.

Wherever whitetails are, there are hunters who pursue them with passion and conviction like few other trophies. A big buck is often described as a separate species in that its habits and behavior differs significantly from other whitetails, making it seemingly impossible to kill at times.

The common denominator, though, wherever they call home, is that trophy bucks absolutely love the solitude and security of a swamp. From the vast tamarack swamps in the North to cattail and willow swamps in mid-America to the brackish tidal swamps of the South, white-tailed bucks grow old by sticking like glue to the heavy cover in and around swamp country. Hunting these areas is difficult, but not impossible.

Finding a Swamp

To find a swamp, drive roads in your area or study local topo maps. These maps will show low ground clearly and these areas should be circled and checked out on foot. One beauty of swamp hunting is that it is often open to the public because the ground isn’t useable for farming or development. In my home state of Minnesota, vast acreages of swamps are open to public hunting in the form of Waterfowl Production.

Areas or Wildlife Management Areas, offering excellent hunting opportunities if you are willing to work hard at your sport (more on that later).

Pinpointing the Bucks

Whitetails aren’t amphibious, so in order for them to use a swamp there needs to be some high ground. Oak islands are a favorite hotspot of mine to locate big bucks because they will use these areas for both bedding and feeding, often staying put for days without leaving these sanctuaries during daylight hours. Aerial photos are the key here because you can locate high ground hotspots easily with them. Getting a personal aerial view can really help you get a feel for the lay of the land and how the bucks are using it. A word of caution: Bucks will often use swamps that seem devoid of high ground, so don’t overlook any areas during your search.

I hunted around a big cattail and willow swamp in Minnesota for two years while chasing a giant buck that I only saw twice, both times before the season opened. His sign was prevalent around the edges of the swamp, but I never saw him with other deer. I finally found out why after an early season snowstorm allowed me to track him back to his bedding area.

The freak storm dumped several inches of heavy snow across the landscape in early October, and after climbing down from a morning stand, I decided to check the edges of the swamp for fresh sign. I found a huge set of tracks leading back from the preferred feeding area, right through the center of the main bedding thicket, and into the heart of the nasty swamp.

Curious as to why the buck would cross this abysmal mess, I donned hip boots and followed him: A hundred yards into the heart of the cover, I heard crashing ahead of me but couldn’t see a thing because the cattails and willows were well over my head, but I soon came upon an old, dilapidated muskrat hut with a well-worn bed directly on top! That monster buck had apparently been bedding every day in the middle of this swamp, with absolutely no dry ground in sight, making him virtually unhuntable!

Find Their Weaknesses

Even bucks like the one just mentioned have weaknesses, and their Achilles Heel is the rut. Normally nocturnal and reluctant to leave their sanctuaries, even cagey old swamp trophies can be taken once they begin to travel in search of does. Such was the case for the Minnesota buck mentioned in the muskrat hut story. A month after I found his bedding spot, he made the mistake of returning to his bed a little late one morning while following a hot doe and was killed by a rifle hunter on the opposite side of the swamp. He had 17 points and grossed nearly 180 inches, but became vulnerable during the rut.

Once the rut begins in earnest, I like to spend all day every day on stand between the nastiest swamp cover I can find and areas of heaviest doe concentrations. The bucks, even the biggest ones, will show eventually, so patience is the key … along with long hours spent in the woods.

Swamp Access

Hunting swamps is difficult at best, but it is not impossible. One of the beauties of swamp hunting, especially on areas of public land, is that few hunters have the work ethic required to go off road and into the center of the nastiest cover. So for the hunter willing to go the extra mile, the reward will be unhunted country and trophy bucks.

Obviously, getting into and out of the swamp is a challenge, requiring hip boots, chest waders or, in some cases, a lightweight boat or canoe. My favorite tool is my ultra light Old Town canoe. Appropriately modeled the Pack, this swamp country super sleuth is only 12 feet long and weighs a mere 33 pounds, allowing me to carry it easily to out-of-the-way access points and then paddle silently into big buck havens.

As far as boots go, I almost always wear chest waders now when hunting swamp country whitetails. Although the water is seldom more than knee-deep, the soft bottoms of most swamps can test the height of even hip boots, and going over the top of your boots in the dark en route to your stand in the morning is a good way to ruin a hunt. Obviously, I don’t sit on stand all day wearing chest waders, but I put my regular hunting boots in my pack or lash them on the outside and then leave the waders rolled up when I hit high ground.

Favorite Tactic

My favorite swamp-hunting tactic is to get back onto some remote oak island very early in the morning, well before daylight, and wait for the big bucks to return from wherever they have been feeding and/or chasing does. Big bucks will leave the fields well before daylight but will slow down once they penetrate the edges of the swamp. A hunter who is already positioned well back into the mess will have the element of surprise on his side as the relaxed deer reaches the sanctuary.

I have actually gone so far as to sleep under my overturned canoe in order to beat the bucks to their bedding zone, but be sure to check your local regulations as this isn’t always legal, especially on public land that does not allow overnight camping.

A couple of years ago, I paddled quietly along an old drainage ditch to reach a small oak island well before daylight, and then watched a steady stream of deer pass by my stand well after the sun had risen above the trees. Included in the parade were six different bucks ranging from 2-year-olds in the 120 class to a massive 10-pointer that would have approached record book minimums. I raised my longbow several times as I tracked a nice 4×5 across the slight ridge in front of me at less than 10 yards before deciding to hold my fire.

The monster never offered me an acceptable shot. I slipped back into my canoe under the cover of darkness that evening without the weight of a big buck in the front end, but I never saw or heard another hunter and was surrounded by bucks throughout the day.

The upshot is whitetail hunters looking to score big should learn a little swamp savvy.

– Lead photo by Mike Searles

This article was published in the October 2006 edition of Buckmasters Whitetail Magazine. Join today to have Buckmasters delivered to your home.

• On June 13, Oregon state officials killed a young black bear that they say had become “too habituated” with humans, according to the Statesman Journal.
• While many were outraged by the incident, killing black bears is actually quite common in the US. Many states allow annual hunts of the species, while “nuisance bears” are commonly killed in parks and residential areas.
• According to the Humane Society of the United States, humans can prevent interactions between people and bears (and therefore hunts) by minimizing the animals’ access to man-made food.
• Seasonal hunts of the species can also be dangerous, as they often ignore the actual problems occurring between black bears and humans.
• Visit INSIDER’s homepage for more stories.

When Oregon state officials killed a black bear that had become “too habituated” with humans on June 13, people across the nation expressed outrage. Many questioned why the animal wasn’t relocated, while others found irony in the fact that the animal was only deemed dangerous because humans made it so.

Still, the animal is not the first — and won’t be last — black bear to be killed in the US. According to Western Wildlife Outreach, 50,000 black bears are legally hunted in North America each year, while another unknown amount is illegally poached.

The practice is not met without controversy, of course, but it’s still widespread. Many people believe bear hunts are necessary to control populations and protect humans, though others feel the practice is inhumane and cruel.

In reality, however, the common killing of black bears does little but spread inaccurate messages about how humans can coexist with the species.

Black bears are the most commonly found bear in North America

Amongst brown bears and grizzlies, black bears are the most commonly found throughout North America, according to National Geographic. Defenders of Wildlife, a conservation organization, estimates the North American population of the species to be approximately 600,000. Half of that number is said to reside in the US.

The animals can live for up to 20 years old in the wild, according to National Geographic, and typically roam alone across vast territories. Male black bears are said to be especially solitary, while females become more protective when mothering cubs during their first two years of life.

It’s also a common misconception that black bears are naturally aggressive. According to the North American Bear Center, most black bears typically approach humans out of curiosity — not dominance — and can be scared away with a simple yell or clap.

Black bears also have no interest in eating humans, as they prefer roots, insects, and small mammals, according to National Geographic.

A black bear was recently killed in Oregon after it had become accustomed to humans who fed it

On June 13, Oregon state officials killed a young black bear that they said had become “too habituated” with humans, according to the Statesman Journal. The bear is said to have been between the ages of 2 and 3 years old, and was frequently fed by humans who would pose for selfies with the animal as it ate.

Days before its death, the animal was spotted on multiple occasions in close proximity to humans, according to the Statesman Journal. It was even seen “eating trail mix, sunflower seeds, and cracked corn” alongside other food that was intentionally left by humans.

Local police shared a photo of the bear on Twitter and asked residents to be vigilant and stay away from the area.

“Deputies are working to get this bear cub near Hagg Lake to go back into the woods… please stay away from the area near Boat Ramp A,” the tweet from Washington County Sheriff’s Office said.

Read more: A bear that was given food by tourists so it would pose for selfies was killed because it had become too used to humans, officials say

On June 14, Oregon state officials confirmed via Twitter that they had killed the bear. Rick Swart, a member of the Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife, told the Statesman Journal that the decision was influenced by past cases in which he said habituated bears were relocated and placed into situations that were more dangerous than where they came from.

People on social media were quick to criticize the decision and questioned why the animal wasn’t brought to a sanctuary.

Killing black bears is actually a common practice throughout the US

According to Western Wildlife Outreach, 50,000 black bears are legally hunted in North America each year. The species is also illegally poached by people who wish to take “their gall bladders, paws, claws, and genitalia for use in traditional Asian medicines,” according to Western Wildlife Outreach, though an exact number is unclear.

As for why the animals are hunted legally, three major factors often play a part. Officials in residential areas and parks, for example, will often kill individual “nuisance bears” that frequently interact with humans, as seen recently in Oregon.

In many other states, however, annual bear hunts are held to control the species’ population numbers, which are growing in most areas, according to the National Wildlife Federation.

Wide Open Spaces, a website about the outdoors, says these growing populations have led to increased problems between bears and humans, leading many people to see the bears as “large raccoons” that are more of an “annoyance” than “top predator.”

Some states also use annual bear hunts to help maintain the populations of other animals, according to Wide Open Spaces.

“Believe it or not, a hungry bear that is fresh out of hibernation will follow deer and elk hearts in hopes of scouting out an easy feast,” Wide Open Spaces reported in 2016. “In areas that foster large bear populations, this can put a real damper on other wildlife populations that need those areas to thrive.”

Not everyone agrees that annual bear hunts are effective

Doris Lin, the director of legal affairs for the Animal Protection League of New Jersey, told NJ 101.5 in 2016 that bear populations are rarely cause for concern.

“The bear population is not a problem,” Lin previously told NJ 101.5. “People don’t care how many bears there are. What they care about is bears getting into their garbage cans, into their bird feeders, and cooking grills.”

“That can only be controlled with non-lethal methods because no matter how many bears there are, they’re going to be attracted to those barbecue grills and garbage cans,” she continued.

Lin also argued that hunters are “just going to keep hunting and hunting because that’s the goal — it’s sport hunting, it’s a trophy hunt.”

Humans can easily prevent most interactions with ‘nuisance bears’

According to the Humane Society of the United States, “nuisance bears” are typically young males or mothers with cubs, and are created by humans who allow the animals to find man-made food “without getting frightened away.” Bears “become less fearful” of people “each time this happens,” which can often lead to conflicts between the two species.

Issues between bears and humans also become more likely during hyperphagia, which is described by the Humane Society of the United States as “a feeding frenzy in late summer and fall” during which bears “bulk up for hibernation” and consume up to 20,000 calories a day. But humans don’t have to fear these conflicts.

The Humane Society of the United States says that keeping black bears away from man-made food will prevent them from becoming accustomed to people. Specifically, making trash cans inaccessible, “enclosing” compost piles, and storing recyclables indoors can stop bears from making house visits.

The organization also suggests removing bird feeders during the summer months, and keeping barbecue grills free from food residue, as even the smallest traces of food can attract black bears.

Annual bear hunts can ignore the actual problems occurring between bears and humans

Black Bear populations are generally rising throughout the US, but that’s not why people are seeing more of them. According to Western Wildlife Outreach, the construction of “housing developments and roads” often push black bears out of their natural habitats, and therefore away from their natural food.

As a result, many of the animals “will frequent municipal garbage dumps and household garbage cans” in search of something to eat. Not only does this lead to bears being labeled as nuisances, but it can also cause an increase in interactions between bears and humans.

A 2015 report from National Geographic says 49,000 incidents occurred between humans and bears in Florida between 1990 and 2014. Many of these conflicts included “encounters at close range, property damage, and perceived safety hazards,” while 200 of the bears were killed after colliding with vehicles.

But because the state has little room to relocate the animals, most “nuisance bears” were killed after encountering humans. In 2015, Florida also hosted a bear hunt during which 295 black bears were killed in just two days, according to National Geographic’s report from the same year. But, according to the Humane Society of the United States, these hunts do little to solve the actual problem at hand: bears interacting with humans.

“Hunters, trappers and wildlife control agents often remove the wrong bears — they kill the individuals not involved in nuisance behaviors,” the Humane Society of the United States says on its website. “Bear-resistant trash cans, hazing programs and other humane methods work better to solve problems.”

Kitty Block, the president and CEO of the Humane Society of the United States, told INSIDER that humans need to become ‘bear aware’

While annual bear hunts are controversial, Kitty Block, the president and CEO of the Humane Society of the United States, feels that killing individual “nuisance bears” is also ineffective.

“States like Oregon too frequently kill bears unnecessarily who come into human-dominated areas looking for food to survive,” Block told INSIDER. “Frequently, the bears are mothers with dependent cubs. When good responses are not in place, states often wrongly try to manage bear-human conflicts by raising bear-hunting quotas, hitting bears doubly hard.”

Rather than killing “nuisance bears,” Block suggests that “non-lethal tactics” should be used.

“Bear biologists strongly suggest that state wildlife agencies employ an escalating suite of non-lethal tactics that include aversive conditioning and relocation in response to bears exhibiting problem behaviors,” Block said. “Those non-lethal deterrents might include the use of Karelian bear dogs, rubber bullets, chemical irritants, noise making pyrotechnics, or just banging pots.”

“In the instance of this young Oregon bear, he or she could have been placed in a rehabilitation facility or even relocated away from this area where people had been feeding him or her,” she continued. “There was no warrant for the state’s action in killing the animal without first exhausting non-lethal options.”

In a previous tweet, representatives for the Washington Country Sheriff’s Office said it wouldn’t have been possible to relocate the bear.

“This was a tough decision the wildlife experts at the Oregon Dept. of Fish & Wildlife had to make for the safety of everyone,” the Washington County Sheriff’s Office said on Twitter. “Relocation wasn’t an option in this case. Humans shouldn’t feed wild bears. It’s a very sad situation.”

Ultimately, Block believes that humans need to become “bear aware” before attempting to coexist with the species.

“People who live or seek recreation in bear country need to take steps to become ‘bear aware’ in order to prevent conflicts from occurring,” Block said. “Simple steps to prevent human-bear conflicts can include not feeding birds while bears are awake, cleaning up barbecue grills with ammonia, keeping a clean campsite or picnic space, and storing garbage containers appropriately at home and in the wild.”

• Read more:
• Tourists in Japan are flocking to ‘otter cafés,’ but there’s evidence that the animals are illegally taken from the wild and kept in small cages
• Tourists from all over the world go to see Morocco’s ‘goat trees,’ but there’s evidence that the animals are being tied against their will
• A man in Tennessee found a family of bears climbing through the windows of his car and hanging out inside
• A hungry bear got stuck on the back of a garbage truck after it climbed in looking for a snack

If you’re planning to kill a wolf in the wild, you need to learn how to skin a wolf in the right way. If you’re not familiar with the procedure, here are some tips for the task. First, you’ll need to gut the animal. You should first cut out the bulging belly. This will make the skin and hair slip off. Once the animal has been gutted, you’ll need to make a small slit down its belly. Be careful not to cut into the ear area, as this will prevent it from spoiling.

If you’re planning to kill a wolf in the wild, you need to learn how to skin a wolf in the right way. If you’re not familiar with the procedure, here are some tips for the task. First, you’ll need to gut the animal. You should first cut out the bulging belly. This will make the skin and hair slip off. Once the animal has been gutted, you’ll need to make a small slit down its belly. Be careful not to cut into the ear area, as this will prevent it from spoiling.

After the skin is rolled up, you can freeze it to dry it. You can also hang the animal to dry and thaw. The next step is to prepare the wolf for skinning. After the wolf is completely defrosted, you can put it on a stretcher and hang it until it is dry to the touch. Once the wolf’s hide is completely dry, you can freeze it.

When you’ve finished skinning the wolf, you can hang it up to dry. The wolf’s skin will be much easier to remove if you hang it on a wall. If you’re not comfortable doing this, you can use a Wolf Balloon to keep the animal upright. Then, you can use a knife to cut the hide into small pieces. You should also avoid cutting yourself while skinning.

If you’re not comfortable skinning a wolf, you should purchase a wolf balloon. A wolf balloon makes the process easier and quicker. Just remember not to try this method if you’re squeamish! And if you don’t want to risk the skinning process, a gambrel is your best option. You can also hang the animal on a gambrel.

You can skin a wolf by removing its head. You can do it yourself by following a few steps. The wolf’s skin can be split and dried. After that, you can freeze the hide and sell it at a fur market. You can also take a wolf to a store that sells pelts and use it for your clothing or furniture. You’ll find a wolf’s body and hair in the local area.

Before you start skinning a wolf, be sure it’s dead. In the wild, a wolf may freeze to death. In cold weather, the animal can be frozen in the shed or at the skinning shop. It can take as much as four days to thaw completely. If you’re not careful, the animal could still be frozen before you get to it. In addition, it may be hard to distinguish a wolf from a dog by the color of its coat.

Before you begin skinning a wolf, you should take care of its feet. This helps prevent injury. Then, you’ll need to prepare the wolf’s head and neck for skinning. You’ll need a squeamish person to help you. If you’re not sure how to skin a wolf, it’s better to call a professional. This will be safer for you.

The first thing you should know about wolves is that they have a lot of senses. They have 200 million smelling cells in their noses and can detect scents up to 100 times better than humans. Moreover, wolves have 42 teeth, and their back teeth are used to crush bones. The front teeth are used for nibbling and pulling, while the tongue is used for cleaning meat. This is an important step in learning how to skin a wolf in the wild.

The wolf’s skin should be clean and dry. It should be completely free of any wounds or cuts. Before you skin a wolf, be sure to prepare its hide for skinning. In the case of a wolf, the skin will be incredibly moist and slippery. It may even be difficult to remove the fur. But that’s all part of the fun! While this process might be a bit messy, it’s a worthwhile experience for the whole family.

The first step in skinning a wolf is to prepare it for skinning. If you’re going to be skinning a wolf in the field, it is best to do it as soon as possible after the kill. If the skin is tanned too dark, it will be too difficult to carry. The last step is to remove the bones. You can use coconut oil or olive oil to tan the hides, or you can use an ice cream solution.

Not sure what mouth turkey call to get?

Look no further.

I’ve exhaustively tested ALL the best turkey mouth calls on the market. In fact, I tested everything, including: construction, sound quality, and so much more.

By the end of this guide, you’ll find the perfect mouth call.

Are you ready?

The 4 Best Turkey Mouth Calls

If you’re pressed on time, here’s a quick list of the best turkey mouth calls:

1. Woodhaven Red Wasp Diaphragm: Best Overall Turkey Mouth Call
2. HS Strut Premium Flex Combo: Best Turkey Mouth Call for Beginners
3. Primos Hunting Upper Cut: Best for the Budget
4. Primos Hunting Hook Hunter: Best Primos Turkey Mouth Call

1. Woodhaven Red Wasp Diaphragm: Best Overall Turkey Mouth Call

The Woodhaven Red Wasp Diaphragm is a well-known and well-loved turkey mouth call, and for with good reason.

Beginners and seasoned hunters alike go for this budget-friendly and solidly constructed piece of hunting equipment.

This is going to seem like I have nothing critical to say about the Red Wasp, but the truth is that there just isn’t that much for me to complain about.

I have some minor gripes about airflow, but that’s really about it.

Construction

The Woodhaven Red Wasp is a three reed V-Cut mouth call made with a red latex top reed and two straight prophylactic bottom reeds.

Its shape is that of almost every single other turkey mouth diaphragm; a horseshoe. The outer half-ring is made from a premium tape, a lined locking frame with adhesive, and “only the best latex material”

This call feels obviously high quality even looking it, but more so after holding and using it. Everything feels, firm, solid, and I’d even go as far as to say hand-made. You know you’re working with some quality build as soon as you use it.

The construction is as good as I’ve seen with “premium” turkey calls. It sure isn’t lacking in this department.

Sound Quality

All of these other factors like reliability, construction, and build quality are meaningless if there’s not a good sound coming out of the call its self, and the Red Wasp Diaphragm has this in spades.

This call is going to produce a nice, soft, raspy call, just like you’d expect from an old hen. Yelps and clucks sound top-notch. You’ll be certain to attract a few birds to your spot.

The sound quality is truly great, but as with any and every mouth call, the sound is largely dependant on the user. Don’t lose hope yet beginners! You should still consider picking this mouth call up.

While you’ll see many veteran hunters using this call like an orchestral instrument, the Red Wasp is designed in such a way that even newbies can use the call fairly easily, with a little practice of course.

Newer hunters and seasoned trackers both will enjoy the sound quality of this call. It’s easy to learn on and better yet, some hunters never want to let it go.

Durability

Bad build quality is always a deal-breaker for me, but the smartly designed and caringly constructed Red Wasp passed my torture test with flying colors.

Many hunters take meticulous care when handling, using, and storing their calls. Their calls can last them for an almost absurd amount of time, I’m talking months upon months, even a couple of years (gross).

I, however, am the very opposite of that. I treat my numerous mouth calls almost like absolute garbage. Aside from losing several, I toss them in my pockets with my keys, near my phone, and my utility knife. I have shredded up many a turkey calls in my life.

For this particular diaphragm, I was actively doing my best to treat it with the bare minimum care to find out if it could survive even me.

It absolutely defeated my torture and mistreatment. The build quality and durability shines brightly in this instance.

I am typically worried about the reed latex ripping or peeling because of the frequent contact with borderline sharp objects like my keys, but I couldn’t see any visible damage or hear any difference in the sound quality.

I know that the Woodhaven Red Wasp is cheap and I wouldn’t be losing out on much if it got destroyed, but it’s great to have a call that can survive almost anything within reasonable limits.

Even though I can afford to buy a brand new call whenever mine fails, not everyone can. If you don’t have a lot of money to spend or are just a frugal type, rest assured that you won’t be wasting your money.

You’ll likely end up squeezing out every nickel and dime it’s worth before it breaks, fails, or otherwise gets retired.

Price

The Woodhaven Red Wasp Diaphragm is only gonna cost you $11.99 almost everywhere.

While turkey mouth calls are not a particularly expensive item, this is still an amazing deal since you’re going to be bagging birds left and right while you’re using this mouth call.

Is the Woodhaven Red Wasp Diaphragm worth it?

There’s no question about it, yes. Here’s why:

• Popular – Although inexpensive, the Red Wasp is an ultra-high-quality product. You might be doing yourself a disservice if you skip out on this call just because it’s a popular call. There’s a reason (or more like several reasons) this is a popular call.
• Durable – The built quality and construction are incredible. It put my worries about durability to rest very quickly. It bordered on invincible, even for me. No bends, breaks, peeling, or tearing here.
• Reliable – This mouth call is reliable and is in it for the long-haul. It’s a big deal considering this is tied with sound quality for most important aspects of a good turkey mouth call.
• Great sound – The sound is superb and easy to produce for beginners. The sound is raspy and soft, just what you’d be looking for in an old hen. Many more experienced hunters could play this thing like a darn instrument. You will not be disappointed when you hear the Red Wasp for the first time.

You really can’t go wrong with the Woodhaven Red Wisp Diaphragm. There’s a reason why some veteran hunters won’t use anything else.

2. HS Strut Premium Flex Combo: Best Turkey Mouth Call for Beginners

Using turkey calls can seem pretty daunting at first, as can turkey hunting in general.

Seeing some pros doing almost identical calls seems discouraging, but it doesn’t take perfect pitch for a perfect hunt.

Start out with the HS Strut Premium Flex Combo, a pack designed with beginners in mind.

Construction

The Flex Combo comes with four different types of calls: The Lil’ Strut, Smoking Gun, Triple Trauma, and Sickle Cutter.

All of them are built in the classic horseshoe shape.

The calls are built with a “premium flex frame” that is supposed to be comfortable for the user, and resistant to bending to ensure a good seal is kept during use and to retain its shape for a more consistent sound.

Of course for many new beginners (or those with a sensitive gag-reflex), a turkey call isn’t going to be the most comfortable thing in the world to get used to. Trimming the call down a little bit might be a reasonable path to take when you’re first starting out.

The reeds are made of a material called Infinity Latex, which requires less air pressure to produce a good sound.

Sound Quality

The sound quality is decent for such a low-cost pack of reeds. This is perfect for beginners who are getting into turkey hunting or who just want to practice their calls while driving around.

Someone described the turkey call as a musical instrument, and that holds true; it takes, patience, practice, and time to learn how to use one. It’s important to keep this in mind when judging the sonic merit of a call, but the sound quality is good overall and is certain to help bag some turkeys (if you practice).

While it can’t quite compete with some slightly more expensive calls, it still does what it’s aiming for; to call turkeys.

This call is not just for beginners either, the sound quality is good enough for intermediate hunters to pick these guys up as well.

Longevity and Build Quality

While the HS Strut Premium Flex Combo boasts good quality build for the calls, I didn’t quite get that impression from my time with them.

If you’re the type of person to take meticulous care of every piece of hunting gear you have, you can expect between 6 months and a year of use from these calls, but if you’re like me, the lifespan on the HS Strut calls is significantly less than what you’re expecting.

I didn’t expect much from these calls in terms of durability, but I was still disappointed with the minuscule amount of time it took for these calls to start falling apart.

I should preface this by saying that I did the absolute minimum when it came to taking care of and protecting the HS Struts. At most, I slipped them into a ziplock bag and stuffed that in my pocket, at worst I tossed them in my jacket pocket with my keys, in my back pocket with my wallet, and in my passenger seat.

The first one fell apart in my pocket with the latex peeling from the rest of the body. The second wasn’t as bad, but I was able to feel shallow rips in the material while I was on the hunt. The other two are fine, likely from a lack of use. I quickly chose favorites, but that’s more of a personal thing.

The ruggedness of these calls leaves something to be desired, but basic caretaking should have these calls lasting you a few months up to a year. Throw them away after that, they get rather nasty after that amount of time.

Price

The HS Strut Premium Flex Combo is only going to cost you $12.95. That’s a really great deal even for beginner turkey calls. If you find that you like using mouth calls, you can upgrade to a higher quality and slightly more expensive turkey call like the Primos Hunting Hook Hunter Turkey Mouth Call at $21.95 for two.

Is the HS Strut Premium Flex worth it?

For beginners, this product is a great starting point.

While the build quality isn’t amazing, the price, variety of products, and sound quality are all pretty good for calls that are only about $3.50 a piece.

Even if you decide mouth calls or turkey hunting isn’t for you, you’re only out 13 dollars. These are a steal if you just need something to practice with or even a back-up. They can even last you a while if you’re gentle with them.

If you’re well versed in turkey hunting and mouth calls, you probably won’t be too disappointed with these, but I think you’d be doing yourself a favor by dropping a little extra cash on a higher quality product.

The HS Strut Premium Flex Combo doesn’t bring anything to the table that you haven’t seen before, but if you’re looking for something to gift to a child or new hunters, these would be a solid buy.

3. Primos Hunting Upper Cut: Best for the Budget

The Primos Hook Hunter Upper Cut diaphragm call is the best turkey call for anyone on a budget.

It’s loud, sounds true to nature, and is expertly engineered.

How does this call measure up to others on the market?

Let’s find out!

Design

The Primos Hunting Upper Cut diaphragm call is made with three premium-grade latex reeds. It’s crafted to perfection, and creates raspy pitches accurate enough to fool even the wisest turkeys!

This is thanks to Primos’ precise, expert engineering. Their Hook Hunter line is one of the leading lines of diaphragm calls, combining over 100 years of experience from seasoned, professional turkey hunters.

The handmade cuts, fly-downs, and upper-cut design produce unique pitches, giving some of the best yelps I’ve ever heard.

The experts at Primos have crafted this call with durability and performance in mind.

Sound

Thanks to the precision cuts, this call makes the exact sounds hens use to summon males from a long distance.

It’s a loud, crisp, raspy sound that’s very true to nature, great for cuts and yelps. If you direct your airflow to the right, you can even get those “keekees” and tree calls!

The sound quality of this diaphragm call is truly unmatched. I’d even go as far as to say it’s my go-to turkey call!

Use

The Upper Cut is a very loud, versatile call, so it’s great for both close and long-range use. It fits well in your mouth and is easy to blow, as long as you know how to use it.

It’s definitely not for beginners. Diaphragms can be a bit difficult to get used to, and you’ll need a lot of practice before you understand how to properly use it.

You must become familiar with the natural tones of turkeys to use it effectively. You also may need to pair it with another call if you’re looking to get any non-raspy tones.

Once you get used to it, it’s very simple to use and the airflow is great. Just put it in your mouth, give it a single blow, and watch the turkeys come flocking!

Price

You can find this turkey call at most online retailers for around $11.

At first, this might seem a little expensive for the average hobby turkey hunter.

But, Primos is an elite brand that has been delivering quality products for decades. It’s a great value for what could very well be the best turkey diaphragm call on the market.

It blows nicely, and Primos is a tried-and-true, time-tested manufacturer with over 100 years of experience in the turkey call game.

Is the Primos Hunting Upper Cut Worth it?

This is one of my all-time favorite diaphragm calls.

It’s versatile, gives you a loud, crisp sound that works every time, and comes from one of the best manufacturers out there.

I cannot recommend the Primo Hunting Upper Cut enough. This is one purchase you certainly will not regret.

4. Primos Hunting Hook Hunter: Best Primos Turkey Mouth Call

Primos game calls are top-notch, and without a doubt the Hook Hunter is the best Primos Turkey caller.

The Hook Hunter is actually a two-pack item. A blue call and a green call come together when you buy.

Being a moderately priced pack of callers, is it worth the extra expense?

Range

The Hook Hunter comes with two calls for a reason. Primos is making sure you are covered for long and short range calling.

My favorite of the two Hook Hunters is the blue long range call. Working with it is a slower paced run of sound.

The green short range is also great and easy to use. The clicks and purrs are easy to control and have a raspy sound.

The ghost cut gives me a good seal in the back of my mouth. I can really get after the long calls and kee kee sounds.

Use

The calls are easy to learn with and easy to use.

The packaging comes with helpful instructions and tips on using the mouth caller.

There is something to be said for practice with a mouth call, and the longer I’ve used the Hook Hunter, the better.

When out in the field, both will fit in the pocket on my hunting vest to protect them and keep them handy.

So, practice, practice, practice.

Your family may not appreciate that suggestion, but you can blame me now and thank me later.

Durability

The Hook Hunter is more durable than the cheaper options out there.

With mouth callers, many are only intended to be used for a short season. The Hook Hunters are well built and able to last for years if I’m careful with them.

They are also easy to keep clean.

I just soak mine in dish-soapy lukewarm water for a few minutes, then give it a quick rinse before laying it out on a paper towel.

I take the time to keep the reeds separate with a reed separator when I store them to get the most for my money.

Effective

The Hook Hunter calls are incredibly effective.

The consistent sounds make it easy to use, and to not have to guess at what sounds will come out of my mouth in the field.

The calls both give me more realistic sounds than the cheaper counterparts I’ve tried.

I can call a gobbler with his hens in without decoys, and that’s not a result I’d get with a cheap disposable caller.

Price

The Hook Hunter call is a 2-pack duo that is priced well.

They do come with a case, and that’s nice to have for storage.

The feel of the calls in the hand or in use is quality. No flimsy body or low-quality reeds here. This is a well built call that is worth the price.

Choose to cheap out and you’ll sound like a kid with a kazoo compared to this caller.

Is the Primo Hook Hunter Turkey Mouth Call worth it?

Without hesitation the answer is yes! These are mouth callers I have used for several years now.

The Primos Hook Hunter is a top notch duo with a quality sound and remarkably realistic calls.

Primo makes the best, and the best is the only way to buy.

Now It’s Your Turn

I hope you enjoyed my best turkey mouth call guide.

So as a recap:

If you’re looking for the best overall turkey mouth call, get the Woodhaven Red Wasp Diaphragm.

What about for beginners? Then opt-in for the HS Strut Premium Flex Combo.

On a budget? Then the Primos Hunting Upper Cut is for you.

Lastly, if you simply want the best primos call, I’d recommend the Primos Hunting Hook Hunter.

Now I want to turn it over to you:

Which turkey mouth call will you pick?

Let me know by leaving a quick comment down below.