If you were to rank the most popular baits for catfish, minnows would probably not rank in the top 5…or even top 10 for that matter.

But why is that? We know catfish eat minnows based on their stomach contents…so why aren’t they commonly used as bait?

In this article, ill discuss using minnows for catfish bait…and why you may want to give it a try the next time you are out fishing.

Can you use Minnows for Catfish Bait?

While traditional catfish baits like chicken gizzards, shad and shrimp are all common and effective, do not overlook using regular minnows for catfish bait.

In fact, using minnows for catfish is a tactic that can be very effective in certain bodies of water, depending on the species of catfish and forage available.

Additionally, minnows are usually readily available at bait shops, or easy enough to catch your own.

Which species of catfish eat minnows?

Virtually all species of freshwater catfish will eat minnows, but I’ve had the most success targeting brown bullheads, yellow bullheads, channel catfish, and white catfish.

Flathead catfish love to eat other fish as their primary food source…and although sunfish are a better bait choice, shad, shiners or large minnows can also be very effective.

How to Catch Catfish with Minnows

To specifically target catfish with minnows as bait, you need to fish your baits on or near the bottom. A simple sinker/knocker rig consisting of a circle hook, leader, swivel, and sinker is effective and versatile.

In lakes and ponds, catfish will generally be found near structures and vegetation along the bottom, as they like to hide out and take cover for hours at a time.

See Also: The Best Time Of Day To Catch Catfish

If you are fishing a small area, you can chum the area first with dead minnows to help spread out the scent and attract nearby fish.

Then, cast out your catfish rigs along the bottom. Experiment with different depths to find where the catfish are located.

I like to cast one line in the deepest section, another in the middle depth area, and the last line along the bank or shoreline.

By keeping your minnows on the bottom, you’re less likely to get bites from sunfish, bass, and other fish you may not be targeting.

Which Minnows are Best for Catching Catfish?

Catfish are not too picky when it comes to living bait or fresh (dead bait). Fathead minnows and golden shiners are popular choices, as these are both naturally occurring forage and large enough to target catfish.

However, here in Florida, I’ve used a bundle of small crappie minnows or mosquitofish to target brown bullheads and channel catfish.

Just hook 3-4 minnows on a hook (similar to putting a few worms on a hook). Fish it on the bottom and wait!

PRO TIP: A great money-saving tip for catfish anglers is to ask bait and tackle shops about their dead minnows. They will often give them away for free, as they can’t sell them and do not want to deal with the smell and pests involved with throwing them in the garbage.

Related: How Many Minnows are in a Pound/Gallon/Scoop

How Do You Rig Minnows for Catfish?

One of the most common rigs to catch catfish using minnows is the classic Carolina rig. Be sure to use small gauge circle hooks (2/0-4/0 size is best) and just enough weight to keep your rig along the bottom of the water column.

The Carolina rig is often used by anglers fishing from docks or piers in still water. This bottom fishing rig works to keep the minnow at the bottom of the lake while keeping a natural motion.

This is a “set it and forget it” approach to catfishing, and multiple lines are often used at once. The more the better!

“Slip bobbers” or “float bobbers” also can be helpful tools when river fishing for catfish in rivers, where the current may be too strong to fish on the bottom.

The bobber allows the minnow to stay high enough to float in the current, making it a great target for waiting for catfish near drop-off areas of the river.

I still strongly suggest you keep your floats adjusted so that the minnows are along the bottom of the water column.

How To Hook Minnow When Targeting Catfish?

If I am using live minnows, I will hook them through the tail so they stay alive and flutter/swim while on the bottom. If I am using dead minnows I will usually hook them through the head, as this is the most secure location.

How To Keep Minnows On The Hook

The biggest reason why minnows come off the hook is that the hooks are the incorrect size, or they are cast off and the hooks rip out.

Try using small gauge wire hooks, and match the hook size with your bait and intended target.

For example, If I am trying to catch 1-3 pound brown bullheads, a simple 1/0 circle hook is sufficient.

Related: The Ultimate Catfish Bait Soap Recipe (EASY!)

Are Live or Dead Minnows Better For Catfish?

While live bait is hands down the best option for targeting most species of fish, fresh dead minnows can actually work better when targeting catfish. Catfish rely on smell more than any other sense to find food, and the scent of fresh dead minnow or shiner can release attract catfish.

This technique works particularly well when fishing in creeks and rivers, as the motion of the water will make it less apparent that the fish isn’t moving.

Releasing scent and oils into the water will draw in a variety of fish, working to chum the water while fishing.

Final Thoughts

So, should you use minnows exclusively for catfish bait?

No, that is not what I am suggesting…

But catfish are one of the few freshwater fish you can really experiment with different bait options.

I think you will find that some catfish respond to certain baits better than others, and that may vary from lake to lake.

Next time you are out crappie fishing with minnows for crappie, walleye, or bass…throw a few on a bottom rig and try for some catfish.

You may be surprised at what ya catch!

Related Posts

• How To Use A Fish Stringer (Easy Explanation W/Tips)
• How To Keep Minnows Alive Without an Aerator (7 Tips)
• Why You Should Be Using Kool-Aid As Catfish Bait!
• How to Catch Koi Fish (And Are They Edible?)
• 5 Effective Ways To Catch Minnows for Bait
• Using Bluegill For Bass Bait? Don’t Miss These Tips!

Duck Hunting isn’t just something you do; it tends to become a part of who you are. Duck hunters have their own culture and unique language.

I’ll never forget hunting with some buddies, it was my first time hunting with this group, and I was a new hunter. A group of Scaup came in, and the season for them wasn’t open yet (California early season). I pulled my gun up and waited for my friend to give me the call to shoot them, but he never did. I asked him why we didn’t shoot at those ducks, and he said – They’re blueys. I didn’t know what that meant, so I asked him what type of duck that was, and he explained to me that they call Scaup – blueys.

That’s when I realized I had much more to learn than I had thought. The different names for ducks that day didn’t stop, and my eyes had been opened that these guys were speaking a different language – Duck Slang.

The slang between duck hunters can vary between regions and areas you hunt, but there is definitely a common thread that goes through most areas.

Whether you are a new duck hunter just starting out on this addiction we call waterfowl hunting or an experienced duck hunter who uses many of these words regularly (especially during season) – get ready to learn some Duck Hunting Slang.

Types of Ducks & Geese

Duck Hunters have slang terms for many different types of ducks and geese, and it often varies based on your location. Some terms transcend a majority of the duck hunter dialects. Duck Hunting Lingo like:

• Drake Mallard: Park Duck, Green Bean, Green Head, Greenie.
• Northern Shoveler: Spoonie, Hollywood, Smiling Mallard, Boot Lip
• American Wigeon: Cotton Top
• Northern Pintail: Sprig, Chocolate Top
• Gadwall: Gray Duck
• Wood Duck: Woodie
• Bufflehead: Buffie
• Common Merganser: Lawn Dart
• Hooded Merganser: Hoodie
• Canadian Goose: Honker
• Snow Goose: Sky Carp
• Specklebelly (White-fronted) Goose: Speck, Tar Belly
• Scaup: Bluey, Bluebill
• Hen Mallard: Suzy
• American Coot: – Trash Duck
• Sea Gull: – Portuguese Snow Goose, Steven

It’s truly amazing to think about how we use so many different slang terms to label the different types of waterfowl.

Duck Hunting Lingo

It’s not just the different types of ducks that have nicknames. There are countless made-up names for various elements of duck hunting that you should know about. Check out a small list below:

• Sky Buster: Someone who shoots at ducks that are too high.
• Honey Hole: The perfect place to hunt ducks. Always successful.
• Refuge Rat: Someone who hunts a public refuge religiously
• Pass Shooting: Shooting at ducks as they pass, rather than while they are landing.
• Cupped up: When ducks lock their wings and begin to lower in elevation.
• Spot Burner: The guy on the internet or in person who shares someone else’s honey hole.
• Flock Shooting: Shooting at a flock of ducks instead of focusing on a single duck.
• Water Swat: Shooting a duck that is on the water.
• Spinner/Mojo: A Spinning wing decoy.
• Deek: A decoy
• Spread: The entirety of a hunter’s decoys as they are set out.
• The X: Where the birds want to be
• Cut Em: The saying someone uses to signal other hunters it’s time to shoot
• Bling: Band

Duck Hunters definitely have their own language, and it even seems like there are different dialects to their lingo. If you have a word or phrase that isn’t on the list – go ahead and share it with us, we’d love to hear it!

Unleash the Power: Discover the Most Powerful Air Rifle for Unmatched Precision and Performance. Experience unrivaled shooting capabilities with our cutting-edge air rifle, engineered to deliver exceptional power, accuracy, and range. Elevate your shooting experience to new heights with the ultimate choice of enthusiasts and professionals alike.

The most powerful air rifle

The AEA Zeus in.72 caliber is currently the most powerful air rifle available. With a power output of up to 1500 ft-lbs, this traditionally styled big-bore air rifle is designed for hunting large game. The solid wood and metal construction of the Zeus helps to dampen recoil, making it a reliable and accurate option for taking down massive quarry like boar or deer.

Another contender for the title of most powerful air rifle is the Umarex Hammer. This.50 caliber rifle utilizes proprietary technology to generate over 700 ft-lbs of energy at the muzzle. With its lightweight cocking action and two-shot shuttle magazine, the Hammer offers fast follow-up shots when needed, making it an effective tool for hunting hogs or other large game.

The FX Impact air rifle is a versatile option that performs well for both small-game and predator hunting. Its bullpup design features a rugged and lightweight frame with an adjustable stock. The modular design allows shooters to easily swap out barrels, magazines, and probes, optimizing the gun for different types of hunting scenarios.

Hatsan Airguns offers the Piledriver in multiple caliber options, including their newest addition in.62 caliber. Generating over 750 ft-lbs of energy with a 650-grain hollow point slug, this bullpup configuration delivers power and accuracy in a more compact package.

The AirForce Texan series has also earned its place among the most powerful air rifles. Available in several calibers including.257,.308,.357,.457, and.50, these rifles offer adjustable customization options and reliable performance for taking down North American big game.

Airguns of Arizona’s Bushbuck bolt action sporter style rifle is another worthy contender. With its laminate stock and adjustable cheekpiece, this.452 caliber rifle is solidly built and offers a sleek design. The Bushbuck generates over 600 ft-lbs of energy and is a capable choice for non-dangerous game hunting.

In conclusion, the most powerful air rifle offers a combination of accuracy and high velocity, making it ideal for various applications such as hunting and target shooting. With advanced technology and robust construction, these rifles provide enhanced performance while ensuring safety measures are in place. Whether you’re a seasoned shooter or a beginner, choosing the right air rifle will ultimately depend on your specific needs and preferences.

FIRST, SOME HISTORY

Well, here’s a surprise! Although HAM has kept you covered on Benjamin Bulldog progress since before its launch, we’ve never published a comprehensive shooting test review before. So now we’re shooting the Bulldog M357!

The Benjamin Bulldog was first launched at the 2015 SHOT Show. But there had been a “sneak peak” before this. On 14 July 2014 – yes, nearly nine years ago! – HAM brought you the first, brief, details of a new .357 caliber replacement for the Benjamin Rogue.

This was the first sighting of the Bulldog. It was certainly demolishing cinder blocks at 55 yards and we were all mightily impressed!

Since that time, HAM has featured the Bulldog occasionally. I shot it myself in June 2019 – as you’ll see below – but for some now long-forgotten reason the story was not published.

Then in 2021, we carried this story about the best way to mount a bipod on the Bulldog. It’s the Leapers UTG Over Bore Bipod.

That information is even more pertinent for the Benjamin Bulldog M357 because the new model has no Picatinny rail under the forend (as the first model did). If you want to use a bipod with the M357, an above bore model is the only way to go.

BUY FROM AMAZON UTG TL-BPOB01-A Over Bore Bipod, 7″-11″ Center Height, Picatinny

Then, in March 2024, HAM carried a first look at the new Benjamin Bulldog M357. We liked what we saw, but a vacation (good) and a long bout of COVID (bad) meant that it’s taken until now to actually shoot the gun under controlled test conditions and publish this comprehensive test review.

VALUE FOR MONEY

Selling for $929.99, the Benjamin Bulldog M357 is attractively-priced for a “true” big bore air rifle combining a power level approaching 300 Ft/Lbs with magazine feed and a five-year warranty. In fact, when you look around, you’ll find that there are very few other airguns that can match these core specifications!

Many US buyers will be pleased to find that the Bulldog is designed and assembled in Velocity Outdoors’ Bloomfield NY headquarters. Most of the parts are sourced in the US too, although the use of a German Lothar Walther barrel is definitely an acceptable exception.

So, on a “bang for the buck” basis, the Bulldog has to be a very strong contender.

BUY FROM PYRAMYD AIR Benjamin Bulldog .357 Bullpup, Shrouded 0.357 Hawke Sidewinder 30 SF 6-24×56, 20x Half Mil IR Reticle, 30mm Tube

SPEED AND ACCURACY

For this HAM review, I tested the Benjamin Bulldog M357 with two types of Benjamin slugs.

Shooting at 25 Yards, the 145 Grain Benjamin Nosler Ballistic Tip eXTREME slugs gave an excellent 5-shot group of well under 1-Inch CTC.

The average Muzzle Energy across the five shots was 234.9 Ft/Lbs. The first shot gave 257.4 Ft/Lbs as it had the highest velocity.

By comparison, the 147 Grain Benjamin .357 Slugs gave a looser group of under 2-Inches CTC at 25 Yards. But it should be remembered that these slugs are half the price of the Nosler eXTREMEs!

Muzzle Energy was higher at an average of 249.4 Ft/Lbs. The first shot gave 269.2 Ft/Lbs.

As mentioned elsewhere, the Bulldog was never designed as a target rifle! So the group with the Nosler eXTREME slugs was definitely very acceptable hunting accuracy at 25 Yards.

COMPARISON WITH ORIGINAL BULLDOG

It’s interesting to compare the groups above with a group I shot back in 2019 using an original-model Bulldog and Nosler eXTREME slugs.

This group is slightly tighter than for the M357. But – given the shooter’s capabilities – I’d say they demonstrated very similar accuracy. In the case of the “old” Bulldog, the average Muzzle Energy was 182.1 ft/Lbs.

Comparing “5-shot average” Muzzle Energies, the M357 thus delivers a 29% increase in Muzzle Energy against the original version and with very similar accuracy. That’s definitely a very worthwhile improvement!

TRIGGER AND COCKING EFFORT

The Benjamin Bulldog M357 has a two-stage, non-adjustable trigger. The metal blade is comfortable in use and well-placed. It’s accompanied inside the trigger guard by a push-pull manual safety.

This safety design is very practical because it makes the shooter immediately aware if it’s engaged. It’s close to impossible to put your finger on the trigger!

Note that there is no externally-available methods for adjusting the Bulldog’s trigger. It is what it is…

However, sear release was quite predictable in the gun tested by HAM, with a fairly clean brake. All-in-all, this is a good hunting trigger, which is what it was designed to be.

The Bulldog is cocked using a rear-mounted side lever. This requires a fair – although not unreasonable – amount of effort to operate.

The location of the side lever requires that any Bulldog is removed from the shooting position. I found it most comfortable to rest the buttpad against my hip while actuating the side lever. This is understandable, however it does mean that a second shot is not available instantaneously, in spite of the magazine feed.

The side lever can be changed to operate from the left (other) side of the gun if required. However, this is a job that should be undertaken by a Crosman Repair Center if warranty is to be retained. For example, you can request such a service if ordering your Bulldog from Pyramyd Air.

COMPARISON TO MANUFACTURER’S CLAIMS

The manufacturer claims a peak Muzzle Energy of 300 Ft/Lbs for the Benjamin Bulldog M357.

True, the maximum Muzzle Energy developed during this HAM test was 269.2 Ft/Lbs using 147 Grain slugs.

However, knowing that the Muzzle Energy of PCP air rifles inevitably increases with projectile weight, it’s very likely that shooting a heavier slug will attain the claim. Consider that the .357 caliber ammo available now ranges up to 212 Grains…

CONSISTENCY

The Benjamin Bulldog M357 is not regulated. This is understandable in a big bore hunting air rifle. The result is that the gun loses power with every shot.

Fortunately this decline in power is very predictable at about 20 FPS drop per shot, as the following shootdown chart shows.

For HAM testing, I topped-up with HPA after every 5 shots – one magazine’s capacity. I’m guessing that most M357 owners will adopt a similar refilling strategy to avoid too many shots striking low.

The average pull weight of the trigger on the Benjamin Bulldog M357 tested by HAM was 4 Lbs 3 Lbs. The lightest pull recorded was 4 Lbs 0 Oz, the heaviest 4 Lbs 11 Oz. So, trigger pull weight consistency was pretty good.

NOISE LEVEL

As with other members of the family, the Benjamin Bulldog M357 includes the company’s baffle-less, triangular shroud. However be aware, it’s loud. Like “ear defenders required” loud!

No Bulldog is going to be “backyard-friendly”, but then it’s designed as a hunting gun, not an all-day, family plinker. The design expectation is obviously that you’ll be shooting it in wide open spaces.

Some owners will be pleased that the M357 is fitted with M18 threads at the muzzle. These are covered with a knurled cap when not in use, but provide the capability to add a big bore airgun-specific silencer where legal.

However, fitting a silencer will obviously increase the overall length of the gun – thus somewhat defeating the purpose of the compact, 36-Inch overall length, form factor that is a major part of the product’s attraction.

SIGHTS AND SCOPE

In preparation for our shooting tests, I mounted a Hawke Sidewinder 6-24 x 50 FFP scope using Hawke 30 mm High Tactical Match Rings.

With its’ 24x magnification and sharp optics, the Sidewinder gives plenty of “reach” for long-range shooting. The rings are definitely sturdy, too, with their six screw top fixing.

To gain the correct eyeline, I also fitted a 0.75-Inch high Leapers UTG Super Slim Picatinny Riser between the rings and gun. This raised the scope sufficiently to enable a comfortable sight picture to be achieved without straining my neck.

You’ll probably find that you need a riser, too…

We should also mention that the Bulldog’s almost-endless top Picatinny rail allows for enormous flexibility in scope mounting. There’s pretty-well no scope that can’t be mounted on this air rifle, however long it is. That’s a major benefit right there that should not be ignored!

SHOOTABILITY

Alt 36-Inches overall – the Benjamin Bulldog M357 is not long However it’s definitely a chunky airgun! With scope mounted, the all-up weight was 10 Lbs 14 Oz. That’s a fairly substantial weight, hence the overbore bipod mentioned elsewhere in this review.

That compact length makes the Bulldog surprisingly easy to shoot offhand. Yes it’s heavy, but it balances well and naturally, making it relatively easy to hold on target. Most big bore air rifles are longer – some much longer – than the M357 as longer barrels are an easy way to increase Muzzle energy with PCPs.

Loading the detachable 5-round magazine is easy enough – once you remember to keep a finger in place to stop the slugs from falling through! Unlike most magazines, you do not rotate the rotor all the way and then let it return as you load. You rotate a little, load one, then repeat as necessary.

This is a practical and easy method of operation, especially if you just want to “top up” the magazine after taking a couple of shots.

The magazine is loaded downwards into the breech. This is simple and easy to do. The only requirement is to be sure that the cocking lever is pulled all the way back as you do so.

At just $18.99, these .357 caliber Bulldog magazines are among the cheapest in the market. That makes it a good plan to buy several…

APPEARANCE AND FINISH

OK, I have to be honest. I really do not like the look of the Bulldog!

However, there’s an old English expression that “handsome is as handsome does”. Thinking of this and – maybe – the familiarity that happens over time, makes the looks less polarizing than when the gun was first introduced back in 2014.

I still do not think the Benjamin Bulldog M357 is a great-looking gun. But I can live with it!

The finish of the Benjamin Bulldog M357 tested by HAM was OK. The clamshell synthetic stock moldings are good enough. However the seam between them is pretty pronounced.

The sheet metal shroud of the test gun was fine on one side, but the finish was imperfect on the other. (It was easy enough to see, but tough to photograph).

Does that matter? Maybe not for a “working gun”, as there’s nothing to cause a problem. But for a price approaching $1K, my expectations would be higher…

BUYING AND OWNING

As with many Velocity Outdoor models, the Benjamin Bulldog M357 carries an outstanding 5-year return-to-factory warranty.

The gun ships with the company’s usual-style owner’s manual. This includes much information and many illustrations, but crams it all in at a minimum type size, making it difficult to read.

Also included is one magazine, a tube of Crosman Pellgun Oil together with a pack of “Bore Tips” for lubricating and barrel cleaning. Thanks Velocity Outdoor!

Another practical point for the bulldog is that the designers included sling swivel mounting points forward and rear. As the Benjamin Bulldog M357 is a heavy gun and you’ll be carrying it for hunting, a good sling and pair of swivels will be an excellent additional investment.

There’s good news about filling the Benjamin Bulldog M357 with High Pressure Air. First is that “only” 3,000 PSI is required for a full fill. This means that you will get more fills from a tank or shorter compressor run times than other comparable PCPs using a higher fill pressure.

Secondly, the Bulldog incorporates a “Foster standard” male quick disconnect for filling. In my testing and analysis for this HAM investigation, I found that Benjamin PCPs comply better with this standard than some other companies.

Another great feature is that – just ahead of the fill nipple and almost-hidden down in that slot – is a degassing screw. Operated with a 3/32-Inch Allen (hex) wrench, this allows all pressure to be released from the Bulldog, if required. It’s a great safety feature, even if you’re not likely to use it often.

However, the fill nipple area is covered by a “snap off” cover that I always find troublesome to use. In practice, I leave it off when shooting the Bulldog, which is not ideal. But it does stop me from loosing the item…

That’s it – the wrong way round! – in the photograph above.

One other consideration for the Bulldog M357 owner is the length of the slugs that you plan to shoot through the gun.

The M357’s magazine accepts the 145 Grain Nosler eXTREME as about a practical maximum length. The specification for these slugs is 18.71 mm long. Looking at the magazine, it’s pretty clear that somewhere around this length is the maximum that could be magazine-fed into the Benjamin Bulldog M357.

As an alternative, the M357 can be single-loaded by opening the bolt and pushing the slug into the barrel by hand. (Yes, it’s fiddly, but it can be done). In this case, the maximum slug length would be around 21 mm (0.8 Inches).

This means that, for example, 178 Grain NSA slugs should fit, but that Seneca 212 Grain ammo is never going to make it into the M357, even with hand loading. Some testing is going to be involved if you want to use ammo longer than around 19 mm (0.750-Inch) and be aware that it’s likely not to fit into the magazine.

BUY FROM PYRAMYD AIR Benjamin Bulldog .357 Bullpup, Shrouded 0.357 Hawke Sidewinder 30 SF 6-24×56, 20x Half Mil IR Reticle, 30mm Tube

This entire article including scoring, test targets etc is Copyright Hard Air Magazine and may NOT in part or in whole be reproduced in any electronic or printed medium without prior permission from the publisher.

The quality of crab traps for sale online is pitiful, to say the least. So-called “Best Seller” crab traps on Amazon and other online retailers will either fall apart or not hold blue crabs. As somebody who has spent a bit too much on crabbing gear, I’m here to tell you the difference between a good and bad blue crab trap.

When you’re buying crabbing gear, you need to know what to look for in a trap. A great crab trap has quality material, a good design, and is built to last. I’ve used so many traps that were plainly built to fail. For each trap on this list (The conventional crab pot, box traps, ring nets, and hand lines), I will point out what will make or break a crab trap. All of this is based on past experience.

Disclaimer: This article is filled with Amazon and eBay Affiliate Links. As an affiliate for these sites, I receive a small commission for any purchase driven through my link at no extra cost to the buyer. Thank you for supporting my website. I’ll mark each affiliate link with “(Affiliate link).”

Two-Compartment Crab Pot

A crab pot is what you usually think of when you think of crabbing. It’s the type of trap you see on shows such as Deadliest Catch. I have to say that I’m disappointed with the quality of crab pots online for blue crabs. More often than not, they are very low-quality and in limited stock. This is why I buy my traps custom-made.

Through recommendations of other watermen, I have found that they have the most luck through custom trap builders. Kcrabpots, a user on eBay.com, has been building and selling quality crab pots since 2002! This is the only crab pot builder for blue crabs I’m confident in recommending. Click here to find kcrabpots on eBay. You can navigate to his store via the Visit Store button on his about page.

I wrote a review of this crab pot, which you can read here. It’s my favorite crab pot I’ve bought out of the several others I wasted hundreds of dollars on. If you want to learn from my mistakes and save your money, I recommend you read why I love this pot.

When buying a crab pot, manufacturer’s usually get two things wrong: the strength of the wire mesh and the shape of the openings.

The image above is my failed purchase of a crab pot. It was $60 down the drain! It was made out of cheap coated chicken wire that I could easily bend, and I’m not a very strong guy! Crabs had no problem clawing their way out of the sides.

Far too often, this is the case for crab pots. However, one thing this manufacturer did get right was the trap’s openings (sort of!). They came slanted upward with enough room for a crab to easily slide into the trap, but not escape. The only problem was that the openings were made of the same low-quality wire mesh. So, the crabs had no problem bending the metal and finding their way out of the trap.

To be frank, I believe it’s best to buy a crab pot either in person or from a reputable builder. Far too often, the traps at Bass Pro Shops or other retailers, like this one, just will not work.

You will also need a crab pot harness and weighted rope with a buoy for your crab pot. I’ve found Promar sells a reliable harness. I recommend weighted rope over anything else because the slack will not float to the surface and get caught by a passing boat.

If you do go the crab pot route, be sure to check your state’s crabbing regulations. States, such as Maryland, require that you register your pot at their DNR webpage. Maryland also requires that you install a turtle excluder device on each crab pot opening.

Box Traps (My favorite crab trap)

Box traps are one of the two collapsible traps recommended in this article. A collapsible trap is a type crab trap that has to be actively triggered to trap blue crabs, unlike the more passive crab pot. This works as a great alternative for those who do not have access to a boat, do their crabbing from piers, or cannot legally use a crab pot in their state.

In my opinion, the best model of the box trap is the FoxyMate Topless Crab Trap (link to an article dedicated to this crab trap). I wrote an entire articlde dedicated to this trap, so click the link to read more about it.

If you start to do research on crab traps you may get overwhelmed at the sheer number of different versions available. There are pyramid traps, box traps, topless box traps, crab pots, ring nets, and plenty more. Forget all of these terms because they aren’t important. The only trap you should get a crabber is a Foxy-Mate Topless Crab Trap.

Here’s a picture of me holding up a crab I caught in my friend’s Foxy-Mate 66 Crab Trap (Affiliate link to Amazon). It’s not the Topless Foxy-Mate (Amazon Affiliate Link) version that I like best, but it still does the job. I like the topless version because you can stack them like cups for much easier storage. I took this picture on Taylor’s Island, MD. It was a female blue crab, so I had to throw it back.

Foxy-Mates are the ideal crab trap for anyone crabbing for Blue Crabs. If you live on the East Coast, from Texas to Maine, this includes you. They’re legal in every state on the coast and don’t come with pages long of regulations like crab pots do. Plus, they’re much cheaper! They work from a pier and from a boat or kayak, you will just need to get a buoy, some rope, and possibly a crab trap weight for anyone crabbing from a boat. The weight keeps their trap from being tossed around by the current, but it’s only necessary for crabbing in the ocean or rougher waters.

I did some digging on the internet and found that Amazon has the best prices for all of the items I mentioned. Foxy-Mates (Affiliate Link to Amazon) go in and out of stock on Amazon, but that’s because they sell for the best price here. I recommend the Foxy-Mates without a top so you can stack them like cups. You will want two or three so your crabber friend can catch more crabs at once. I usually take 6 out when I’m crabbing from my kayak.

With each trap, you’re going to need a buoy if you’re crabbing from a boat or kayak. States have different rules when it comes to buoys, so I would look at the ones they already have before making a purchase. You can read about your state’s gear guidelines on my State-By-State Crabbing Regulations page.

It never hurts to get more rope either. You can get fancy and order lead-lined rope for these traps (Affiliate link to Amazon). It’s useless if you’re crabbing from a pier, but if you’re using these traps from a boat it’s really helpful. This rope sinks with the trap, rather than float at the surface, which prevents it from getting caught in boat propellers.

With this trap, you’re going to want a weight if they are crabbing in rougher waters. I always recommend this Crab Trap Weight (Affiliate Link to Amazon) that you can zip tie to a Foxy-Mate. Tip: You can get away with zip-tie-ing some cut rebar to the trap as well, which is much cheaper.

I’ll briefly go over why I like this trap. I can sum it up in one sentence: It’s built to last a very long time and has no trouble catching blue crabs.

The trap works by laying flat with bait in the center to attract crabs. You can fasten your choice of bait with the spring at the center of the trap. When a crab tries to eat the bait, you pull on the harness to fold the cage’s doors upward and trap the poor crab.

It’s a great alternative to a crab pot, and much cheaper! It just takes active participation fro the crabber.

The only problem with this model of topless crab traps is that they are in short supply. They sporadically pop up on eBay or Amazon. If that’s the case, you may have to use a more-available FoxyMate box trap with the top. I find the topless version better because it’s stackable. It’s not more effective at catching crabs, just more convenient.

Hand-Lines (The beginner-friendly budget trap!)

Last up on this list is the basic Hand-Line, also known as a throw-line. It’s a step up from using plain old string and a net to catch blue crabs, as people have been doing for centuries.

They work by luring crabs to a piece of bait secured to some string. When the crab finds the bait, slowly pull the bait towards you with the attached string. Once it’s in view, scoop up the crab with a dip net.

The concept is as simple as this trap. It’s a clip to better secure your bait with a built-in weight so the line goes further out in the water. This won’t limit you to plain old chicken necks, which are easiest to tie to some string.

I’ve found that when it comes to hand lines, the cheapest options do the trick. I recommend this Hand Line on Amazon (Affiliate Link). I was surprised at how many I could buy on this Amazon listing for such a low price, which is great because you need around 6 hand lines at a time to catch a decent amount of crabs.

I was surprised at what a good price his dip net was on Amazon, for a high-quality tool (Affiliate Link). If not this one, make sure to get a net with a similar mesh that’s small. I’ve found that with wider-spaced nets, crabs like to cling on for dear life which makes them annoying to deal with.

Traps I Would Avoid

There are so many traps on the internet that websites recommend to beginner crabbers because they don’t know any better! Don’t get tricked and waste your money.

Ring Nets (A worse version of the box trap for the same price!)

A ring net is a circular net that lays flat on the bottom until you pull on its string. When you do, it takes the shape of something like a basket, trapping any poor crab caught in the middle. You’ll find these traps on clearance at your local Walmart or bait shop since no one wants them!

If you’re going to use a collapsible trap like this, stick with a box trap. They’re more durable and reliable at catching crabs for the same price.

If you do end up using this trap, my recommendation of ring nets for blue crabs is the Hurricane Two-Ring Net (Affiliate Link). I’ve found that this is the highest-quality ring net on the market for the lowest price. It’s much cheaper than any box trap or crab pot and perfect for some hands-on crabbing.

The Hurricane Two-Ring Net is durable. Instead of the more common cotton netting ring nets that many beginner crabbers get sucked into buying, this net is made of wire mesh. While any cotton mesh net will fall apart after one or two crabbing trips, the Hurricane will stay together.

A few downsides with this ring net are the harness and lack of bait clip. The harness is made out of pretty cheap cotton string that I recommend replacing with a more durable string. Pormar made a harness for crab pots that should work perfectly here, click here to check it out on Amazon (Affiliate Link).

This ring net has no place to put your bait. Bait that gets lost in the current or stolen by crabs can ruin a crabbing trip. I’ve had some luck using a few zip ties to tie down chicken or fish (depending on what I’m using that day) to the center of the net.

One problem I’ve found with this trap is that the S-ring at the top of the harness will sometimes get caught in the wire mesh. This will prevent the net from creating a hoop-shape when you pull it up, which lets any crab in the middle to get away! I never have this problem with a box trap!

Editors’ review

The Bowtech General was added to the Bowtech 2008 lineup. With an ATA just over 31″, an 8 1/4″ brace height, and a 315 fps IBO, this rig was quiet and was a premier hunting bow. Because of limb problems, Bowtech issued a voluntary recall on all the bows and replaced the limbs, and discontinued making the bow. The General is still one of the best bows ever designed by Bowtech. This bow is slower than todays speed bows, but should be a consideration if the shooter is looking to make a purchase. Since the limbs have been replaced, the only reason not to purchase this rig is because you feel you have to have the newest bow on the market.

Finish

This rig was designed with the Realtree Hardwood Green In-Velvet coating. Archers order this rig in Realtree APG HD, Advantage MAX-4, Mossy Oak Obsession, Mossy Oak Treestand, or Mossy Oak Brush. This finish is still used today and provides a rubber-like feel and enhances the vibration dampening properties of the bow.

Risers/Limb

This rig came with a fully machined forged riser providing strength and stability. The riser also has a short pivoting leg at each end which provides the center point for the pivoting limb. This “leg” provides some movement along the limb to aid in maximum bend for shooting stability. The limbs for this bow are a 12″ center pivoting split-limb system that are machined out of a unidirectional fiberglass. This particular material is known for its strength and durability, making it perfect for bow limbs. There is virtually no limb pockets. The limbs are secured to the riser and use a pivot point where the riser supports the limb at a midway point. This provides additional limb stability and allows the limb to bend more from the midpoint out to the cam. This design helps the bow generate more power while dissipating the shock throughout the rest of the bow. This bow also used Vertical Force Technology, which was introduced in 2002 and basically meant parallel limbs. It was not long before other bow manufacturer realized that Bowtech was onto something revolutionary. The General was only one of the Bowtech rigs that boasted this technology.

Other Components

This bow came with BCY 452X strings, a Short Stop integrated string stop, roller guard cable guard, center pivot limb pockets, and a hush kit. As this rig is no longer in the Bowtech lineup, if the archer is looking to purchase one, it will be used. This means that it will most likely have a host of add-on components.

Eccentric System

This rig used the Center Track Binary Cam System. This cam system generated the speed produced by the General. This cam system not only provided excellent speed for 2008, but also was able to provide that speed without creating any bow torque. The General boasted an IBO of 315 fps. A test bow, straight out of the box, setup for 70# draw weight, 29″ draw length, and shooting a 360 grain arrow chrono’d at 285 fps. Although not right on IBO, but very close. Draw length can be adjusted by changing the draw modules. The modules will allow for adjustments in 1/2″ increments. When changing the draw length of the General, it is necessary to adjust the draw stop as well. Adjusting the stop post will allow for additional draw length adjustments in 1/16″ increments. It is also very important that the shooter not try to adjust the draw stop while at full draw.

Draw Cycle/Shootability

Pretty smooth draw throughout the cycle to a solid back wall. At full draw, there is no bow creep. However, if the shooter must let off the shot, they should use caution. The shooter will have only about two inches of movement toward letdown, and then the bow will pull with a lot of force and accidental release is a real possibility. It is very difficult to hold on to.The draw weight of this rig is based on the peak weight of the limbs, and adjustability of up to 10# from there. The limbs come in weights of 50#, 60#, and 70#. Any adjustment from there is done simply by loosening the limb bolts. The archer must be careful not to loosen the limb bolts too much. This rig was a very shootable, quiet, and accurate bow, but limb problems caused Bowtech to voluntarily recall the bow to repair the issues. Bowtech eventually discontinued this rig. If an archer can find a General on the used market, they should be wary and have the bow checked out prior to purchase to ensure the repairs have been completed. Any authorized Bowtech Dealer can perform this inspection.

Silencing Package

This rig is quiet out of the box. The slightly heavier riser, the In-Velvet finish, the string stop, and the hush kit make this bow very quiet. Even when shooting a light arrow (at or near IBO) there is almost no noise from this bow.

Comparisons

The Bowtech General can be compared to the Bowtech 101st Airborne. Even with the limb problems the General had before the recall, it was still one of the best overall bows ever designed by the guys at Bowtech. The 101st, although a good bow in its own rights, was never a flagship quality rig. The 101st is an overall bigger bow with five more inches ATA. The brace height of the 101st is slightly shorter at 7 3/16″ instead of the 8 1/4″ of the General. The 101st also offers an additional 20 fps than the General, but does not compare when it comes to quietness, smoothness, and accuracy. Since neither of these bows are in the current Bowtech lineup, they both must be purchased used. Because of this, the shooter can definitely find either one of these bows in a price range that they are comfortable paying. The limb issues encountered by the General have been corrected, but the purchaser would be advised to have it checked out to be sure. Although this issue has been corrected, the General still carries the stigma of limb problems that some just can’t get over.

Usage Scenarios

This rig was designed specifically as a hunting rig. It will fit well on a target course or a 3D range, but make no mistake, it is a hunting bow. When originally designed, the designers at Bowtech were looking for a rig that was fast, quiet, and smooth. They found this in the General, and it was their flagship bow in 2008. With an IBO of 315 fps, this rig is fast enough, and is quiet enough to fit any hunting situation.

Value

When this bow first hit the market, it sold for around $849. They can be found used today for as low as $250. Although this rig was involved in a voluntary recall by Bowtech, the limb problems that caused the recall should have been fixed. If you can find a Bowtech General and the limbs have been replaced, this rig is a very good bow to purchase. There still are very few bows that are as quiet as this bow, although there are quite a few that are faster.

Summary

The guys at Bowtech were looking to create a rig for the hunter that was fast, quiet, and smooth. They eventually came up with the General. This bow not only met the call, but did so with no vibration or noise. With an ATA of just over 31″ and a brace height of 8 1/4″, this bow is accurate, fast, and consistent. The Center Track Binary Cam system provides a smooth draw and an IBO of 315. This is about 15 fps slower than the average bow today, but in 2008, it was respectableThis rig is adjustable as well with a draw length range of 26″ – 30″ in 1/2″ increments, and a draw weight range of 40# – 70#. The limbs are the primary determinate for the draw weight with the weight being adjustable to 10# below peak weight of the limbs. This rig was added to the 2008 lineup, but shortly into the year Bowtech voluntarily recalled the bow as it had received 255 work orders for defective limbs. Although they recalled all the bows and replaced the limbs, the damage had been done and they discontinued the bow. The shooter can still find them for sale online. The limb issues should have been corrected, making this a very good bow to have in your arsenal. The shooter would be advised to have the bow inspected by an authorized Bowtech dealer prior to purchasing the bow just to make sure it didn’t slip through the cracks when the recall took place.

My introduction to the diminutive .17 caliber came via a mid-winter coyote caper in southwestern Alberta. I hunted mule deer there the previous year with a good buddy, Andre van Hilten, owner of Willow Creek Outfitters. The predator hunter in me couldn’t help but notice the abundance of coyotes as we picked apart the landscape with our optics in search of antlers. So it was no surprise the next January I was following Andre down a sharp ridgeline where we set up overlooking a spiderweb of brushy draws that converged at a frozen stock pond.

It was that magical crepuscular time of the morning all coyote hunters cherish. The breeze was cool and wispy as the sun peeked over the horizon. Andre laid into the rabbit distress call with the guttural growl of a chain-smoking blues singer, causing the hairs on the back of my neck to stand and applaud. I watched the hills come to life as coyotes began crawling out of the woodwork. Nine in all! Most were milling around several hundred yards out, finishing up the night shift and paying us very little attention. Then I spotted two coming hard, one down a fence line, the other circling the far end of the stock pond. I’d like to say that we cleaned house, but circumstances conspired to produce a big fat zero. Don’t ask, and I won’t tell. No worries, though. There was no shortage of coyotes and we’d get a chance at redemption in this predator-rich environment.

That reckoning came in the form of several rugged-out coyotes over the next few days of hunting, firmly planted by the formidable .17 Remington Fireball and its petite 20-grain AccuTip-V projectile. This hunt occurred a few years back when Remington first introduced the cartridge—a necked-down version of its .221 Fireball—and paired it with the also petite Model Seven rifle. I was one of a handful of early test subjects asked to measure its mettle. While I was somewhat skeptical of using such a small bullet on such large northern coyotes, that concern proved to be unfounded. A look at my notes from that hunt demonstrates the efficiency of this formidable little cartridge.

On that Alberta hunt we had no unrecovered coyotes. The longest shot—193 yards—to a broadside coyote dropped it in its tracks with no exit wound. A shot at 170 yards netted a similar result: instant death with no exit wound. A shot to the head at 171 yards dropped another coyote with an exit wound that caused only minimal damage. Only one coyote showed considerable fur damage: a frontal shot at 94 yards that encountered bone and exited out the shoulder.

Another group of hunters in Wyoming experienced similar results with kills ranging from 60 to 250 yards with no unrecovered coyotes. Only one hit coyote went a considerable distance and required a finishing shot. The dog shot at 250 yards was hit to the rear of the lungs, and the tough canine traveled 200 yards before succumbing.

Currently, there are three major .17-caliber centerfire cartridge offerings: .17 Remington, .17 Remington Fireball, and .17 Hornet. Each comes factory loaded with a decent selection of special-purpose varmint and predator bullets. I’d be remiss in not mentioning a lengthy list of wildcats, such as the .17 Ackley Bee, .17 Ackley Hornet, .17 MACH IV, .17 Javelina, and others.

So let’s set the stage by first looking at the three factory offerings in .17 caliber:

17 Remington

The first modern-day factory-loaded .17 varmint cartridge was the .17 Remington, introduced in 1971. It’s the hottest of the bunch (excluding the wildcats), and its angry little 20-grain Remington Premier AccuTip-V bullet leaves the barrel at 4,250 fps. This cartridge is based on the .223 Remington case (with some dimensional changes) necked-down to accept 0.172-inch-diameter bullets. Like its parent case, the rim diameter is 0.378 inch, and the shoulder angle remains 23 degrees.

.17 Remington Fireball

Remington launched the .17 Fireball, a necked-down version of its .221 Fireball, in 2007. It pushes the 20-grain Remington Premier AccuTip-V bullet out the barrel at 4,000 fps, almost matching the .17 Remington. But it uses significantly less powder than the .17 Remington and therefore produces less heat and fouling, which can be an issue with the high volume varmint hunters shoot. The .17 Remington Fireball was Remington’s factory-produced answer to the popular .17 Mach IV wildcat, which it resembles.

.17 Hornet

The .17 Hornet was originally offered as a wildcat cartridge by P.O. Ackley during the early 1950s, as a necked-down version of the .22 Hornet. Shooting a 20-grain V-max bullet, it produces a muzzle velocity of 3,650 fps and generates 592 ft.-lbs. of energy. Its trajectory is similar to that of a .223 Remington shooting a 55-grain bullet but with the felt recoil of a .22 WMR. As with the Fireball, there is less fouling, barrel wear, powder, and pressure when compared to the .17 Remington.

The Pros

It doesn’t take more than a glance to recognize what these cartridges have in common and what makes them effective for terminating predators, even those as large as northern coyote.Velocity, which, of course, is one of two ways to produce foot-pounds of energy. The other way being bullet mass. With their itty-bitty, frangible bullets, speed is required to produce the energy and terminal performance needed for effective kills—especially when dealing with coyote-sized critters. But the tiny .17 pill does come with some limitations.

First, the good news. There are many good reasons why downsizing to these diminutive cartridges for fur hunting can make sense, especially when pursuing smallish critters such as foxes, bobcats, and raccoons at moderate ranges: reduced recoil, flat trajectory, minimal fur damage, small maneuverable rifles, etc. Of these reasons, the one that left the biggest impression when I hunted with the .17 Fireball in Alberta was its mild recoil, which meant never losing sight of the target. Even when using high-powered optics, I could actually see the bullet hit fur on the coyotes I killed and that means I could often determine where the animal was hit and make quick follow-up shots when necessary. That’s because the .17 Fireball cartridge uses 50 percent less powder than the popular .22-250 Remington and generates 86 percent less recoil.

Next on the list of attributes is flat trajectory. Using the .17 Remington as an example, its 20-grain AccuTip-V bullet leaves the barrel at a blistering 4,250 fps, giving it a trajectory similar to the consummate varmint-getter, the .22-250 Remington, which has a muzzle velocity of 3,800 fps with a 50-grain version of the same bullet. With a 250-yard zero, the .17 Remington drops 2.5 inches at 300 yards and 13.5 inches at 400 yards. Comparatively, the .22-250 Remington with the same 250-yard zero drops 2.7 at 300 yards and 12.2 inches at 400 yards.

The next two characteristics—accuracy and terminal performance—have a lot to do with the bullets typically loaded for these cartridges, such as the aforementioned Remington AccuTip-V, Hornady V-MAX, Nosler FBHP Varmageddon, and others. In varmint calibers, these bullets, albeit small, combine superb flight characteristics and match-grade accuracy with a design optimized for explosive on-game results. Ballistic-tip bullets are death to thin-skinned critters, such as foxes, bobcats, and coyotes. The AccuTip-V performed as expected on those Alberta coyotes: a small entrance hole, explosive expansion, and very few exits. Most of the coyotes were dead before they hit the ground.

Finally, for outback hunts, lightweight, maneuverable rifles are the flavor of the day—for example, Remington’s Model Seven, Ruger’s 77/17, and Savage’s Walking Varminter. The fact that recoil isn’t an issue with the .17s means shedding weight makes sense when covering lots of ground or rugged terrain in pursuit of predators.

The Cons

OK, now for the not-so-good news. There are times when these undersized cartridges might get a fur hunter in trouble, such as when hunting in windy conditions or when hunting larger predators or a mixed bag of predators. The trade-off is that the lighter bullets produce less energy at the muzzle and shed it much quicker than heavier bullets, making them less effective as the yardage to the target increases. The .22-250 Remington produces nearly twice the foot-pounds of energy at the barrel—1,603 vs. 802—as the .17 Remington and 536 vs. 192 ft.-lbs. at 400 yards. That’s why I consider the .17s to be moderate-range cartridges for fur hunting, effective to 200 yards or so but not so much beyond that.

And as mentioned, wind drift is an issue with these lighter bullets when compared to larger calibers and their heavier bullets. Consider a .22-250 Remington pushing a 55-grain ballistic-tip bullet in a 20-mph crosswind. Hunters can expect 7.3 inches of drift at 200 yards and 17.5 inches at 300 yards. Compare that to the .17 Hornet pushing a 20-grain ballistic-tip bullet: 11.4 inches of drift and 200 yards and 28 inches of drift at 300 yards. For that reason, I often opt for larger calibers and heavier bullets if I know I’m going to be experiencing blustery conditions while hunting.

One last thing. Small-bore rifles generally need to be cleaned more frequently to maintain their accuracy.

I’m not ready to retire my .22-250 Remington rifles from active coyote duty, and I still have reservations about the downrange energy and wind-bucking ability of the 17-caliber cartridges on coyote-sized critter past 200 yards. But for light duty on fox-sized critters and coyotes at moderate ranges, these feisty little cartridges hold a secure position in my battery of predator/varmint rifles.

Mathews introduces its newest bow model — the Phase4™. Engineered with new Resistance Phase Damping™ Technology to drastically reduce vibration and built compatible with a completely redesigned line of Bridge-Lock™ Stabilizers, the Phase4 is the stealthiest hunting system to-date.

“For 2024, we focused on building a streamlined hunting system that had the least amount of noise and felt vibration in a fully setup bow,” stated Mark Hayes, design engineering manager. “The result is a complete hunting system that is up to 13% quieter with 37% less vibration.”

NEW Resistance Phase Damping™ Technology

Resistance Phase Damping™ (RPD) stops vibration at the source, resulting in the smoothest shooting archery system Mathews has ever created. This first of its kind innovation tackles excess energy directly in the limbs which significantly deadens and silences post-shot vibration.

“The real value of RPD is maximized when paired with our new Bridge-Lock stabilizers,” says Hayes. “We challenged conventional stabilizer design and ended up with a radically improved bar that is better balanced, absorbs more vibration and allows hunters to fine tune their setup like never before.”

NEW Bridge-Lock™ Stabilizers

Expanding on Mathews exclusive Bridge-Lock Technology, the new Bridge-Lock Stabilizers offer improved balance points and a stiffer connection to your bow for added vibration dampening and enhanced stabilization. InterLink™ Weight Technology makes adding and removing stabilizer weights easier than ever before with a redesigned threadless, stackable weight system that only requires one set screw for quick adjustments. Completed with a quick-disconnect knob allowing adjustability in ½” increments, the Bridge-Lock™ Stabilizers offer a new level of harmonic tuning and customization in a single bar. Available in 8”, 10”, and 12” length options and eight finish options to complete your hunting system.

The new Phase4 is available in 29” or 33” axle-to-axle lengths. The Phase4 29 has a 6” brace height and accommodates draw lengths from 25.5”-30”. The Phase4 33 has a 6.5” brace height and accommodates draw lengths from 27”-31.5”.

The Phase4 is available in eight finish options. You can find more information on the 2024 Phase4 and new accessory line at Mathewsinc.com and experience them today at your local Mathews Retailer.

MSRP

• Phase4 29: $1,299
• Phase4 33: $1,399
• Bridge-Lock Stabilizer (8”): $249.99
• Bridge-Lock Stabilizer (10”): $259.99
• Bridge-Lock Stabilizer (12”): $269.99
• Bridge-Lock Adjustable V-Bar: $199.99

About Mathews Archery

Mathews Archery has been committed to elevating the archery experience for over 31 years. All Mathews bows are designed and built in Sparta, Wisconsin, U.S.A. and distributed through independent retailers around the world. Experience the full line of premier target and hunting bows at mathewsinc.com and take a look at the 2024 new product guide here.

Every hunter dreams of an instant kill, where their prey simply hits the ground dead. It’s the perfect shot, the best intention, and the only way to make sure the animal doesn’t suffer. Here, we’ll take a look at your placement when you’re trying to take down the gobbler you’ve got your eye on.

Broadside

If the turkey approaches you broadside, the best place to put your shot is right where the wing joints to the body. You’ll slice through heart and lungs and there is no more instant kill than that. Plus, should you miss your mark by an inch or two on any side of this shot, you’ll still hit enough necessary organs to take the bird down in one go (almost certainly).

We do have to note that broadside shots are usually the most preferred to take with both firearms and archery since they allow for a much larger target and an easier spot. Plus, broadside shots allow you to see spurs on gobblers and assure you that the bird you’re shooting is not a hen.

Above the Beard

Maybe your gobbler is just demanding that you shoot it from the front. It wants to look you in the eye when you put it down and you know what? You’re game for that.

Shoot just above the bird’s beard to get that turkey’s pretty fan on your wall. Shooting under will likely damage the breast meat and may cause a gut shot, which could end up ruining the entire bird. If you take the turkey with a shot above the beard but below the neck, you’ll go straight through the heart and lungs once again and put it down in a blink.

Where the Fan Meets

Or maybe you’re experiencing the opposite problem. The turkey won’t turn around and is being, well, a turkey. In this case, we recommend calling vigorously to try to get the gobbler’s attention. A broadside or front shot is so much easier than trying to knock off the bird’s backside.

However, we take whatever shots we can, right? It’s more important to bag your bird than it is to let it get away because it’s only showing its back to you.

Shoot at the base of the fan, just below the actual tail of the bird but above the cloaca. Unfortunately, you’ll likely see some meat loss with this shot but that doesn’t matter quite as much if you’re just after the fan and you’re feeding your dogs the rest. Still, even if you’re just after the fan, this probably isn’t the best shot in the world, anyway.

Try to get the bird to turn, but take what you can if it won’t.

From Behind

Maybe the turkey doesn’t even care enough to flip its fan at you. That, or you’re after a bearded hen that you’ve had your eye on and she couldn’t care less. Go ahead and shoot in the same position, but across the back rather than from underneath the fan. You’re looking to aim for the tail joint at the body and sort of up along the spine rather than down into the body cavity.

Again, ideally, you get the turkey to turn your way and try to get that broadside or front shot. If you can’t, the joint of the tail and the body is a simple place to put a shot.

The Head Debate

It is preferred to kill a turkey by placing a body shot across the heart or lungs to ruin as little meat as possible and to kill the bird instantly. After all, we want their meat and the trophies, and we want the turkey to die as fast as possible.

So why not try for a headshot and be done with it?

Turkeys have incredibly tiny brains. Anyone who’s watched them for a while will probably chuckle at that, but we aren’t making fun of their intelligence. Instead, this is a simple fact. The heart and lungs of a turkey are far larger than the brain and better targets. Yes, your rifle is probably going to completely behead that turkey if you manage to get a really solid shot at it.

The target is tiny, the brain is minuscule, and you don’t want to take a bird’s beak off and leave it to starve to death by a misfire. A body shot will kill almost any bird, even if you don’t clip the heart and lungs. The damage done to the internal system of the turkey is simply too much for the body to bear. That isn’t so if you miss their very small head (and smaller brain).

Bottom Line

We strongly recommend either a broadside or a front-facing shot. These are the easiest to take and assure that the bird is probably dead before it hits the ground.

Looking for some more tips? Check out our other articles: 15 Expert Tips for Spring Turkey Hunting and How to Clean a Wild Turkey.