Hunting dogs have been bred and trained for centuries to assist humans in their hunting pursuits. They are strong, agile, and intelligent, making them ideal companions for hunting trips. Naming your hunting dog is an important part of the bonding process between you and your furry friend. A great name not only reflects your dog’s personality and characteristics but also adds to their hunting persona.

In this blog post, we will share with you the best hunting dog names from various sources that will suit any breed and help you find the perfect name for your four-legged companion.

• Ace – A short and snappy name for a dog who is always on top of their game and excels in the field.
• Arrow – A strong and swift name for a hunting dog who can navigate through the woods like a pro.
• Aspen – Named after the popular ski resort town, this name is perfect for a dog that loves to hunt in the mountains or is from Colorado.
• Blaze – A fiery name for a dog who has an intense passion for the hunt and can track down prey with ease.
• Boone – Named after Daniel Boone, a famous frontiersman and hunter.
• Brook – Inspired by brook trout, this name is fitting for a waterfowl retriever or a dog that loves to swim.
• Browning – Named after the Browning Arms Company
• Buck – This classic hunting dog name is inspired by the iconic game animal and is fitting for a dog that is quick, nimble, and agile.
• Cabela – Named after Cabela’s, a hunting and fishing retail store.
• Canyon – Named after the many canyons and gorges found in hunting areas.
• Cascade – Inspired by the Cascade mountain range, this name is great for a dog that loves to hunt in the mountains or is from the Pacific Northwest.
• Cheyenne – Named after the capital city of Wyoming, this name is great for a dog that loves to hunt in the western United States or is from the region.
• Chief – A powerful and commanding name for a dog who takes charge and leads the way on the hunt.
• Colt – A name for a young hunting dog who is full of energy and eager to learn.
• Dash – A name for a dog who is quick and agile on their feet, making them a valuable asset on the hunt.
• Duke – A name for a regal and noble hunting dog who exudes strength and loyalty.
• Flint – Named after Flintlock, a type of gun used for hunting.
• Gage – Named after a shotgun gauge, which measures the diameter of the gun barrel.
• Glacier – Named after the Glacier National Park, a popular outdoors spot in Montana.
• Grizzly – Inspired by the large and powerful bear, this name is fitting for a hunting dog that is big, strong, and fearless.
• Grouse – Named after the popular game bird, this name is perfect for a hunting dog that excels in upland bird hunting.
• Gunner – A name for a dog who is skilled in shooting game birds and can retrieve them with ease.
• Hank – A name for a dog who is a loyal and reliable companion on the hunt, always by their owner’s side.
• Huckleberry – Named after the wild berries often found on hunting trips.
• Hunter – A straightforward and fitting name for a dog who was born to hunt.
• Kodiak – Inspired by the large bear species, this name is fitting for a hunting dog that is big, strong, and always on the hunt
• Marlin – Named after the popular pelagic fish, this name is great for a dog that loves to spend time on the water.
• Maverick – A name for a daring and adventurous dog who loves to explore new terrain on the hunt.
• Mossy – This name is inspired by the popular camouflage brand and is perfect for a dog that loves to hunt in the woods and blend in with the surroundings.
• Nellie – Named after Nellie Creek, a popular hunting spot in Montana.
• Oakley – A name for a hunting dog who is strong, sturdy, and can withstand any challenge that comes their way.
• Orvis – Named after Orvis, a famous hunting and fishing supply company.
• Ozark – Named after the Ozark Mountains, a popular hunting destination in Arkansas and Missouri.
• Pheasant – A cute and quirky name for a dog that helps hunt pheasants.
• Quill – Named after a feather quill, which hunters may use to memorialize their hunts.
• Red – This name is inspired by the color of many game animals and is fitting for a hunting dog that is fast, fierce, and always on the hunt.
• Redwood – Named after the Redwood National and State Parks, which offer hunting opportunities.
• Remi – Named after Remington
• Remington – A name for a dog who is a skilled gun dog, known for their excellent retrieval abilities.
• Ridge – A name for a dog who can navigate through rough and rocky terrain with ease.
• Rio – Named after the Rio Grande, a river that flows through many popular hunting destinations.
• Rocky – Named after the iconic mountain range, this name is great for a dog that is tough, rugged, and always up for a challenge.
• Ruger – This name pays homage to the firearms company and is great for a dog that is tough, reliable, and always gets the job done.
• Sage – Named after the sagebrush found in many hunting locations.
• Scout – A name for a dog who is always on the lookout for game and can spot prey from a distance.
• Shooter – A name for a dog who is a sharpshooter and can hit their target with precision.
• Sierra – Named after the Sierra Nevada mountain range, this name is perfect for a hunting dog that is tough, rugged, and loves to explore the great outdoors.
• Steele – A strong and durable name for a hunting dog who can withstand harsh weather conditions.
• Stone – Named after the rocky terrain often found in hunting areas.
• Tahoe – Named after Lake Tahoe, a popular destination for hunting and fishing.
• Talon – A fitting name for a hunting dog with sharp claws.
• Timber – Named after the wooded areas where hunting often takes place.
• Tracker – A fitting name for a dog that helps track down game.
• Trigger – A name for a dog who is quick to act and can respond to commands in a split second.
• Turbo – A name for a dog who has boundless energy and can keep up with their owner on a long hunt.
• Whiskey – A name for a dog who is spirited and lively, bringing excitement to every hunting trip.
• Winchester – Named after the Winchester Repeating Arms Company, which produces hunting firearms.
• Wyatt – A name for a dog who is a fearless and determined hunter, always up for a challenge.
• Yukon – Named after the Yukon River and the Yukon Territory, known for their abundant wildlife.
• Zephyr – A name for a dog who is fast and agile, like a gentle breeze that blows through the woods.
• Zeus – A name for a dog who is powerful and commanding, like the king of the gods.
• Zion – Named after the popular national park, this name is perfect for a hunting dog that loves to explore the wilderness and climb mountains.

Let me make this clear to you.

This is the Only Guide on the Internet with full depth info about the best scopes for 22LR as of 2022. The field test results plus unbiased straightforward talk is what makes this list so popular. (jump to main section).

I love shooting, always have. Like most country folk do, I started off with a Daisy Air Gun which launched a brass BB like a jet off a Carrier – or at least I thought so.

As a kid, once I had proved to the old man that I had some sense for responsible gun ownership, I began plinking with my .22 Long Rifle in the dried-out riverbed behind the house.

Like most kids I got a hand-me-down. Dad’s old tube fed, Model 80 Marlin was true and sure but had a broken extractor, so after each shot, I had to pop out the spent brass with my trusty pen knife.

I loved the low recoil combined by the quiet pop of the rifle as I plinked beer cans and then advanced to popping the thousands of prairie dogs that had commandeered my neighbor’s pasture.

In my teens I was introduced to the 22 Mag, or more officially, the .22 Winchester Magnum Rimfire (WMR) cartridge, but I always fell back to the beauty and simplicity of my .22 Long Rifle for cheap and fun shooting.

To the date of the writing of this article, there is no gun comparable out there for putting down varmints from as small as rabbits to as big as coyotes. Especially when it comes to cost.

This simple, cheap, and wonderful round is produced in the billions each year and can yet become scarce when politicians start threating gun control.

Now talking about hitting those targets or hunting squirrels and those small critters out there, you would need a scope regardless of the distance they’re at!

We know if we are target shooting (in competitions) or hunting small animals like squirrels and armadillos, all we need is precision and results!

So either way, if you’re an expert (perhaps you skipped the intro) or you’re someone just starting out, here are the best scopes for the 22LR rifle.

Comparison Table for the Best Scopes For 22LR:

Quality Scope for My .22, why Should I Care?

Back in those days, living on the plains of Eastern Colorado, we shot .22 rifles, peeping across iron sights at squirrels and such.

I could not afford a rifle scope, but any prairie dog inside of 50 yards was a goner when I was in the prone position.

These days, we rely on heavy duty and accurate optical sights to deliver an accurate crushing blow.

Where once we were looking through a rear and front sight now, we were looking through the glass of a scope mounted to our barrels.

At first, I bought the cheapest scope I could find. I wasn’t looking for high quality or multi coated or fog proof optics.

I made some good shots with the $30 scope but I sought out a better solution if not the best.

My .22 needed a companion scope that would bring out the best features in the chambering.

How Were the Scopes for the 22 Rimfire Chosen?

The list is built from scratch for the year 2022, so the 22LR scopes mentioned here have up to date information.

Here are things that I considered, researched, and tested while searching for the best .22 scopes:

I spend most of my time in the High Country of Colorado. The weather is unpredictable, and the terrain is abusive.

My scope requirements tend to fall more on durability, weatherproofing and weight. A broken or hazy scope is useless at 12,000 feet.

Test Bed:

Marlin Model 60 chambered in .22 LR, semi-automatic, with 18 round tube fed magazine.

This is a steady and reliable rifle and offers a standard platform with which to mount our test subjects.

The Marlin is a lightweight rifle and we wanted to keep it that way, thus scope weight played a significant factor.

Best 22LR Scopes for Squirrel Hunting and Target Shooting:

Leupold VX-Freedom 3-9x40mm Rimfire Riflescope

This Leupold VX-Freedom toughed it out with us on a late late-season, plains coyote hunt on the sagebrush and dog-hole dominated rolling hills of Arapahoe County, Colorado.

Out of the box, this high quality, fully coated, rifle scope had the look and feel of one of the best scopes offered on the market. It mounted seamlessly to my Marlin using provided scope rings.

The Power

This Leupold is a variable power scope that far exceeds the requirements of shooting the .22 LR. The 3-9×40 allows you to dial from 3 up to 9 magnification to suit your hunting needs. The 40mm objective lets in a ton of light during shooting hours. It was more power in a scope than I needed for shorter range “varmint hunting”.

I usually hunt inside 100 yards, so I shot the scope with a setting around 5 which is quite practical for most hunters. I found that any magnification over 9 just wasnt worth it in short range, small game hunting. A fixed scope would most likely be the best candidate for hunting small game at a short range. But to each their own.

The Objective Lens

This scope’s objective lens is a little larger than what is required for the .22 LR and offered a noticeably clear sight picture. It was clear and bright at 40mm and provided the best light transmission front to back as we shot from dusk to dawn.

I did shoot my rimfire in the evenings and found that the larger objective was far more gracious in letting in light as you approach dusk.

Fuzziness and blurriness were not a problem during our intense hunt. The scope’s optics performed in an outstanding fashion. I selected the simple duplex reticle for quick and easy range finding. I got on to several coyotes within the first several hours of hunting and wanted to lock on as quickly as possible. All ‘yotes inside of 100 yards went on to Valhalla and their furs to the taxidermist.

Rugged and Durable

Yes, this rifle scope performed well out of the box on our weekend coyote shoot in the snowbanks of Kiowa Creek in Eastern Colorado. There were quite a few creek crossings, climbing on our bellies and hauling scope mounted rifles into tree stands. We are rough on gear out here and the Leupold performed very well under the worst-case conditions.

Knobs and Dials

Both the Diopter adjustment and the magnification zoom, as well as the elevation and windage turrets functioned smoothly. Windage adjustments were smooth and reported a loud click to ensure accurate and confident shooting.

Affordability

You’re not going to get to get away with spending less than $400 for a Leupold scope. In this case, the scope cost more than the rifle, but it is what it is, and the shooting experience was exhilarating.

Leupold FX-1 4x28mm Rimfirescope

I really wanted to check out this no-nonsense scope, that had set magnification at 4x which is perfect for .22 LR shooting. It was also more streamlined and lighter than the other candidates we checked out and fitted very well to the Marlin with the extra purchase scope rings.

The Power

This one is a non-variable power scope. The 4x was more than appropriate for the max effective ranges of the .22 Mag, inside 100 yards, which allowed quicker target acquisition to kill on most targets.

Of the two other scopes, this one was the toughest to get the sight picture clear and there was some blurriness, but it was not that annoying. It may have been a manufacturing defect in that scope. I’m very used to peeping through Leupold scopes and my expectations are always very high that I will be looking though the finest, state-of-the-art optics.

The Objective Lens

The 28mm objective works simply fine for plinking, target shooting and hunting.

As I shot all day on the range, I noticed the glass was not as crisp and clear as the other contenders and as I continued to shoot till dusk and found out that it did not provide the same light transmission as the other scopes. With that being said, I was still able to keep all my shots inside a 2” ring out to 125 yards. Albeit, having to strain my eyes a bit more.

Rugged and Durable

Unfortunately, I was not able to take the FX-1 out into the field for a stress test to see it is the best .22 scope in this category – only the range. These Leupold scopes are some of the most durable scopes out there on the market. I do not take their word for it either. I’ve been shooting through their scopes for over 20 years. I frequently compare notes with my shooting buddies, and I’ve heard through the grapevine, from other shooting enthusiasts, that you get what you pay for, and these Leupold scopes are pretty tough hombres.

Knobs and Dials

I did not have any major complaints on scope adjustments. They were not near as smooth as the other tested scopes and windage and elevation turrets did not provide loud enough clicks for me to be sure of their adjustment.

Affordability

I got mine for $300, so it did not break the bank, but it was a bit pricy for a plinking scope. For varmint hunting it’s probably the way to go if you have a budget but don’t want to mount a scope of lesser quality.

Athlon Optics Midas TAC 6-24×50 First Focal Plane Riflescope:

A buddy of mine from Nebraska called me up to rid his fields of some pesky prairie dogs. I knew this would be a good opportunity to try out the professional grade Athlon Optics Midas TAC.

We’d be shooting out to 150+ yards, a long way for the 22 LR, and I wanted to see how this great looking scope would perform against its more affordable rivals.

I mounted one up on to my Marlin with Vortex Optics Tactical 30mm Riflescope Rings. The mounting was simple, and I was able to adjust the scope to my preferred eye relief distance of around 4 inches for the .22 – not much recoil to worry about and I really hate getting scope bitten.

My first peep down the scope gave me a look at The Christmas Tree MOA reticle. I could tell right off the bat that it was a little much for a simple 1,200 fps 30 grain round and was better suited for 30-06 or .308 caliber weapons.

All that was necessary for this shooter was a simple duplex reticle where I just put the crosshairs on the target and pull the trigger.

The Power

The 6-24×50 allows you to dial up some serious magnification – which gives you a workable field of vision down to 6 feet at prairie dog range. The scope gets all that is needed for short range shooting just right.

With this power I was able to set back away from the alert little rodents without scaring the little buggers back down into their holes, and I hit most of the prairie dogs I set my sights on.

Hunting outside the 100 yard range with a .22 LR, I shot the rifle with the scope set at 7 power. I am biased about short range varmint shooting and I’ve always considered a fixed magnification scope the best candidate for hunting small game at shorter ranges with a 22 LR.

The Objective Lens

This scope’s 50mm objective meets and exceeds all the requirements for plinking and target shooting; well beyond what is required for the standard .22 Long Rifle and its limited range.

The 50mm objective allowed plenty of light for my daytime prairie dog hunt but we had to pack it in late afternoon.

One thing for sure, the large objective barley fit my rifle using standard rings, and I was not able to set the scope far back enough to achieve my preferred eye-relief. This problem will probably vary from rifle to rifle.

Rugged and Durable

The Athlon Optics family has a reputation for meeting the most grueling weather and hunting conditions around the world.

Unfortunately, I did not get a change to introduce this scope to the rigors of Colorado hunting but I’m looking forward to taking to the limits this winter with a late season Muley hunt on the plains east of Denver – this time mounted to the top of my .270 Winchester.

Knobs and Dials

Very well engineered! Audible and reliable clicks on the windage and yardage turrets.

Affordability

With a price tag around $700, this is the least affordable of the rifle scopes tested, its performs very well for your basic rimfire, short range shooting activities and probably is a little much given this scope is designed for shooting high velocity magnum rounds out to 700 yards or greater.

Vortex Crossfire II 2-7×32 Rimfire

You can’t complete a list without having Vortex in it, can you? The only thing entry level about this scope is it’s price.

The successor of Crossfire, the Vortex Crossfire II is a versatile piece built specifically for rimfire rifles.

Specifications:

Clarity and Build:

The scope produces a clear, crisp picture and features multi-coated lenses, Fast-focus eyepiece and a V-Plex (MOA) reticle.

The efficient light transmission through the lens makes it a good choice for outdoor as well as indoor shooting.

The Vortex Crossfire II is built on a single-piece aircraft grade Aluminium, hence making it a robust piece and the O-ring seals make sure that no dust or moisture gets in.

The hard ArmorTrek coating protects the exterior lenses from scratches and oil.

The capped zero reset turrets give a positive feel and can be tracked easily.

Accuracy:

While testing it, we found it to be clear at 25, 50 and 100 yards.

The scope was mounted on a Smith & Wesson M&P 15-22 shooting various ammo. After sighting in, the rifle shot 1/2 inch groups at 50 yards.

We got 4 inch groups on an average with rests in place at 100 yards and 1 inch groups at 25 yards indoors respectively.

The Crossfire II provided generous eye relief and held zero perfectly throughout the test.

Tested On (Rifles and Recommended Mounts):

If you’ve Ruger 10/22, the medium rings like Leupold Std Medium Rings will do good and if you’re looking for quick detachable rings then Weaver Quad-Lock Rings work well.

For Marlin 795-LTR Redfield .22 See-Thru Dovetail Rings work well.

At low power, we were able to shoot with both eyes open and the view never got black regardless of the head movements.

Pros:

Cons:

Vortex Diamondback 2-7×35 Rimfire Scope:

If you liked the Crossfire II, then you’ll love the Diamondback!

This beautiful beast is carved out of a single piece of aircraft grade aluminum hence making it resistant to shocks and magnum recoils.

Specifications:

Clarity:

Talking about clarity, as usual, the quality is exceptional, the pictures are sharp, vivid and bright; all credit goes to the multi-coated lenses which increase light transmission up to 91%.

You’re simply getting clarity that matches up to the scopes being sold at higher prices.

The turrets are super good, give a positive feel and in no way, they’re soft or mushy.

The low profiled capped turrets prevent any sort of damage to them and yes, the Diamondback features the zero-reset turrets.

The glass etched V-plex reticle is super helpful in various hunting applications.

Furthermore, the scope tube is Argon purged hence making it fog proof and the O-ring seals make sure that the scope remains waterproof and dustproof.

Accuracy:

We mounted the scope on a CZ 452 22LR shooting CCI stingers.

It took us 6 rounds to zero at 50 yards. We shot first two rounds for checking and fine tuning. The rest of the 20 rounds were dead on.

Pros:

Conclusion:

So that’s the thought process of my findings and the results of the field testing that I came up with to select the best .22 LR Scope. At the end of the day, I love standing on that pile of rimfire shells on the range.

I’ll wipe down the rifle and scope and write down some more notes on what I think is the best 22 Scope for a rimfire.

After shooting over 1,000 rounds behind these scopes, I found the Leupold VX Freedom Rimfire Rifle scope outperformed its competitor scopes in every aspect that I considered essential, except price. It is the best 22 scope solution for my rimfire. And, as of today, it is still mounted to my semi-auto rimfire.

• Provided tight groups at 100 yards and respectable at 125 yards
• The multi coated optics stayed clear and fog-proof during the worst weather conditions
• The eye relief was most forgiving, allowing me to quickly acquire my target
• Scope adjustments were easy to use, clicks were audible and the adjustments smooth
• It certainly is the best of the best scopes out there for varmint shooting with the scrappy little .22 LR

I’ll be straightforward here.

Choose either Leupold VX-Freedom or Vortex Crossfire II, these are currently the best scopes for 22LR. There isn’t much difference in clarity or features. I’m a Leupold guy so I’ll go Leupold VX-Freedom, if you love Vortex, then choose the Crossfire II.

Both of these scopes are a great choice for competitions, plinking and small game hunting.

Both of these scopes are beasts in themselves and can give a tough fight to scopes available in higher price.

Choose any of the shortlisted scope and you’re good to go.

Thank me later!

How to Choose a Scope for 22LR?

How much Magnification for a 22LR Scope?

If we talk on the basis of the usual range, effective distance, and bullet drop then hunters shooting 22LRs generally don’t go beyond 100 yards. I’ve seen most of my friends plinking or hunting squirrels at no more than 75 yards.

Considering the average distance and the size of animals or pests, you wouldn’t be needing anything more than 9x magnification.

If you’re considering a 22LR scope for long range hunting, then keep reading.

Where Should I Buy the Scope From?

Amazon. Don’t need to explain much here.

The customer service, quick delivery and easy returns make Amazon my preferred marketplace to buy 22LR scopes. I’ve had very negative experiences with many other websites but Amazon has always been good for me. The scopes are generally available at a discount and the customer ratings help a lot too.

Long Range Hunting & Shooting with 22LR:

As mentioned in my earlier post, 22LR drops like a rainbow after 100 yards.

Personally, having shot the Savage Mark II out to 300 yards with subsonic ammo, I can tell you it isn’t easy to hit with accuracy.

Still there are some amazing people out there doing the impossible and making the 22LR work way beyond its limits.

Guess what? It’s all about how good you are!

Though the scopes on my list are capable of hunting at long distances but distances like 700 yards are just extreme and aren’t a practical effective range for hunting and plinking.

For 35 years, Liberty Safe has been our best-selling brand. Based in Payson, Utah, Liberty’s premier production line is manned by Americans. It’s the only US manufacturer offering a full range of entry-level to high-end gun safes. However, we do offer many other U.S.-built safe brands that provide a Liberty Safe alternative.

Although Liberty is the household name, when it comes to quality U.S.-built safe manufacturers, others such as Browning, Champion, Superior, and Rhino offer alternatives to Liberty that might align with your needs. We compiled a short list to compare with Liberty Safes best sellers for your reference.

8 Liberty Safe Alternative Gun Safes

Although Liberty is the household name, when it comes to quality U.S.-built safe manufacturers, others — such as Browning, Champion, Superior, and Rhino — offer alternatives to Liberty that might align with your needs.

While we’re well-versed in the selection of gun safes for sale (you might even call us gun safe nerds), we know that comparing multiple brands can be confusing. The following list outlines Liberty’s best sellers and the closest American-made alternative.

DISCOUNTS & REBATES: The following prices listed below do not reflect any current sales and or rebates available. Additionally, we are currently offering 12-month same as cash financing to qualifying individuals.

1. Liberty Centurion Alternative: RHINO RBFX

Rhino is a veteran-owned gun safe manufacturer located in Caldwell, Idaho. It’s named after the fighter jet Don Suggs flew — a McDonnell Douglas F-4 Phantom. (A twin-jet, all-weather aircraft that had top speeds more than twice that of sound!) An innovative manufacturer, Rhino offers both a patented swing-out gun rack and their new patented SafeX™ Security System.

Liberty Centurion Price Range: $799 – $1,299 Fire Rating: 40 MinutesSteel: 14 Gauge

Rhino RBFX (Featuring Rhino’s Revolutionary New Anti-Pry Technology)Price Range: $1,309 – $1,938Fire Rating: 40 Minutes Steel: 14 Gauge

2. Liberty USA Alternative: none

We hate saying there’s no solution for something. Our team bends over backward to help customers achieve their goals. But when it comes to finding a Liberty safe alternative for the USA series, we can’t. There simply isn’t a comparable American-made gun safe at this price point at this time.

3. Liberty Colonial Alternative: BROWNING HUNTER SERIES

Browning can trace its roots back to 1878, when the Browning Arms Company was founded in Ogden, Utah. It made a name for itself as a sporting gun manufacturer. Over the decades, it has offered a wide assortment of outdoor gear — including gun safes.

Liberty ColonialPrice Range: $2,299 – $3,599Fire Rating: 75 MinutesSteel: 12 Gauge

Browning Hunter SeriesPrice Range: $2,469 – $3,669Fire Rating: 80 MinutesSteel: 12 Gauge

4. Liberty Fatboy Jr. Extreme Alternative: BROWNING HUNTER PATRIOTIC 49

In a head-to-head comparison, The Browning Hunter Patriotic 49 weighs 165 pounds more than the Fatboy Jr. Extreme and can hold one additional long gun. It’s also important to note that the Hunter Patriotic 49 is 11.5 inches taller, requiring a larger ceiling.

Liberty Fatboy Jr. ExtremePrice Range: $2,799 – $2,899Fire Rating: 75 MinutesSteel: 12 Gauge

Browning Hunter Patriotic 49Price Range: $3,389Fire Rating: 80 MinutesSteel: 12 Gauge

5. Liberty Franklin Alternative: BROWNING 1878 Series

Once again, this U.S.-built Liberty Safe alternative is a bit pricier. It also packs on a few more pounds, weighing roughly 75 pounds more than similarly sized safes within the Franklin series.

Liberty FranklinPrice Range: $2,899 – $4,899Fire Rating: 110 MinutesSteel: 12 Gauge

Browning 1878Price Range: $3,169 – $7,019Fire Rating: 90 MinutesSteel: 11 Gauge

6. Liberty Fatboy Alternative: BROWNING HELLS CANYON 49

Head-to-head, this is where we start to see more comparable safes from U.S. manufacturers. They offer similar footprints and storage capacity. One of the primary differences between these two safes is Liberty’s patented flat bar design.

Liberty FatboyPrice Range: $3,999 – $4,199Fire Rating: 110 MinutesSteel: 11 Gauge

Browning Hells Canyon 49Price Range: $4,389 – $4,969Fire Rating: 90 MinutesSteel: 11 Gauge

7. Liberty Lincoln Alternative: CHAMPION SUPERIOR MASTER SERIES

The Superior Master series produced by Champion offers top-tier security and uncompromising craftsmanship. It features thick, reinforced, pry-resistant doors — along with an intelligently designed interior to maximize long-gun and valuable storage.

Liberty Lincoln SeriesPrice Range: $4,099 – $6,599Fire Rating: 120 MinutesSteel: 10 Gauge

Champion Superior Master SeriesPrice Range: $3,599 – $7,899Fire Rating: 120 MinutesSteel: 11 Gauge

8. Liberty Presidential Alternative: AMERICAN SECURITY BFX SERIES

Established in 1946, American Security (aka AMSEC) manufactures some of the strongest gun safes and commercial safes in the world. The BFX series is its premier consumer gun safes. The series features a UL certified RSC burglary rating, aligned with an adjustable interior for customizable storage solutions.

Liberty Presidential SeriesPrice Range: $7,099 – $10,499Fire Rating: 150 Minutes (2.5 Hours)Steel: 70 Gauge

American Security BFX SeriesPrice Range: $5,752 – $9,667Fire Rating: 120 MinutesSteel: 11 Gauge

What to Know About Alternatives to Liberty Gun Safes

Liberty Safe Sells the Only Entry Level American-Made Long Gun Safe

If you want an American-made gun safe for $1,000 (or less), Liberty is your only option.

American Flags Look Cool. They Don’t Guarantee a Made-in-the-USA Safe.

We love Old Glory. And we think things decorated with her look pretty darn cool. But beware a wolf in sheep’s clothing because it’s not uncommon for a foreign gun safe manufacturer to print an American flag print on their product. The flag doesn’t mean it was actually made in the U.S.

Footwear

Y

our boots are the most important pieces of equipment you will bring. You can borrow a gun, jacket or pack, but rarely will you be able to borrow boots. The most important aspects are fit and comfort, followed by durability. If you have foot problems or you just want your feet to feel good, I’d recommend visiting a foot specialist and getting a set of custom orthotics made.

You should at least get an after-market insole/foot bed like Super Feet. Different boots fit different feet types. If the boot does not feel good, don’t buy it for its looks. Concerning boots, I prefer all leather for most mountain hunting situations. The Kenetrek Mountain Extreme 400 is the best I have used in any situation PERIOD!

Plastic boots are okay in cold weather and rough terrain, but are not real comfortable to walk in over flat ground. In general, boots with less side stitching are good. Gore-Tex boots work well, but I also recommend getting a pair of 13” tall, non-insulated Gore-Tex socks from Cabela’s or another laminated sock brand called Seal Skins, in the event you step in water or your feet get wet from sweat. This is cheap insurance for dry feet. Air bob type soles work well in mud and soft terrain, provide good traction, but are not very durable in rock.

Most leather boots that you see advertised for hunting are insufficient and fall apart quickly. The following are some recommendations: Kenetrek Mountain Extreme 400 are our #1 choice boot as all our guides now use them in all situations. They are very durable extremely comfortable and have almost no break in time. (Contact -Jim Winjum’s web site via our Links page). The Canada Hunter 200 or 800, Alaskan Hunter, Teton Hiker and the Denali’s. Outdoor Essentials (owned by Seighard Weitzel), sells the top of the line Meindl boots (Loggers). They have good rubber and very little side stitching and hold up well in the rocks. Danner boots work, but are not the best in steep terrain or rocks.

Other excellent boots to consider are made by Kayland, Technica, Asolo, Garmot, One Sport, Vasque, Merrell, La Sportiva, Salomon and Lowa Sheep Hunters are all good. Try to get leather boots that will handle abrasive from rocks and brush and do not break down when wet.

Your boots will last much longer if you take care of them. Wear your boots around a while before you “grease” them. I clean any oil or dirt off exposed side stitching with rubbing alcohol or acetone, then coat the stitching with Seam Grip or Freesole to prevent it from getting cut on rocks and brush. Several light coats work well. For waterproofing boots, Nikwax paste works well. Meindl makes a good Wax also. Use Montana Pitch Blend on Schnee’s boots. An old toothbrush works well for applying Nikwax. I generally heat MT Pitch Blend in a Microwave or pot of hot water and apply it with a paintbrush. Use your fingers to rub the stuff into the leather grain. Snoseal and Mink oil are not as good as those mentioned .

A trick for comfortable feet, especially on a backpack trip, where you will be unable to pack another set of boots, is to bring along another set of insoles that fit your feet slightly differently than your others. It may help prevent hot spots from forming.

A Leki or Black Diamond (“Black Diamond Carbon whippet” is my go to) telescopic hiking pole is highly recommended for most people and mandatory for people with bad knees and/or poor balance. I personally will not hike with a pack without a walking stick. One other trick for people with weak or sensitive knees is to wear a set of lightweight kneepads when hunting in rocky terrain or for stalking sheep and goats in the sharp rocks. The Sitka Timberline pants have these built in or Arcteryx also sells a very good, more durable strap-on set.

After you’ve spent all that money and time finding the right set of boots, don’t cut corners on cheap socks. Bridgedale and Lorpen makes the very best. Smart wool, Wigwam & Thorlo are excellent too. There are other brands of decent socks, but these are great. If you have high volume feet, one sock may work. Some wear a liner under a heavy sock or will wear two medium thick socks together. Experiment to find out what is best for you. Of all the clothes you wear, socks are the most important to keep clean and fresh. It is a good idea to have enough for a change every 2-3 days. Athlete’s foot and blisters are not fun. Take care of your feet.

Clothing / Outerwear:

For sheep hunts I recommend Sitka in the Optifade pattern. We all use it and it works very well in the terrain we hunt. Contact David Brinker at Sitka Gear, dbrinker@sitkagear.com. He will hook you up with the right setup for any situation. I only use clothing made by Sitka. Below there is alss some options that may work for you as well.

In general, stick with synthetics (Fleece, Schoeller, Saddlecloth, nylon/poly blends etc.) or wool. For backpacking, synthetics tend to be lighter and quicker to dry. Smart Wool is hard to beat. Wool is more odor & wind resistant than fleece, unless you use Wind stopper fleece like Beyond Fleece or Mountain Hardware. A jacket or parka with a hood is a good idea.

Make sure you have a belt or suspenders for your pants Collared shirts or Zipped pullovers work the best. A vest makes a great layering tool. Some people like them and some don’t. Down vests are very warm and work well late in the fall. A fleece or wool vest will work most of the season. A lightweight jacket made with synthetic fill (Kelvin Jacket (Sitka) or Brooks Range Jacket – Barney’s Sports) is a good idea if you get cold easily. A good hat and gloves are vital to staying comfortable.

A brimmed hat works well for warmer weather, rain and for people who don’t like hoods. They can get in the way on a backpack hunt. Later in the year, a hat with earflaps will keep your neck and ears warm. Wind block fleece gloves with a shell is a good all weather combination. For cold weather, a pair of waterfowl type, Gortex gloves (Cabela’s MT050) works well as does a mountaineering type glove made by Patagonia, Mountain Hardware or Black Diamond or Outdoor Research “OR”. I always pack an extra set of “Stormfront” gloves with me as the temperature can change at anytime. If you get cold hands easily, bring a pair of mittens also.

In warmer weather, their Microtex (Burr Barrier) and lightweight fleece is great. LL Bean makes a nice set of Worsterlon clothes and wind bloc fleece. Day One Camouflage makes some of the nicest camo fleece, especially for bow hunters. They have a huge selection of patterns to choose from. Barney’s Sport Chalet sells some excellent Wind block Fleece and lightweight backpacking clothing (The Black, 3SP Sport hill Mountain Pants are great – maybe the best all around backpacking pant made for the money).

Mountain Hardware (Wind block) and Arcteryx (Gamma MX) make excellent Wind block pants and jackets. Mountain Hardware and Arcteyrx (Gamma LT) also make excellent early season backpacking/mountain/rock pants made from a Schoeller Fabric that breathe well and are very tough.

Another great line of wind block items if made by Beyond Fleece. They can custom make any size, color, feature you want. Regarding wool, King of the Mountain is the best all around for cold weather.

Another company that makes excellent technical wool clothing is IbexWear, Filson, Sleeping Indian Designs, Pendleton & Woolrich also make nice wool clothing. If you will be backpacking, the clothing should be light, quick drying and layering is a key.

Quiet clothing is important for bow hunting. For the mountain/backpack type hunts, noise and camouflage are not as important as warmth, weight, durability, comfort, fit and layering.

Regarding Camouflage, it is not necessary, but it will help you blend into the environment. If you want Camo, Sitka is by far the best Clothing for backpacking. The pattern you choose is not critical. If you are doing a mountain hunt, choose a color that is open and blends with rocks and ledges. Sitka, Kuiu, Kryptek, Mossy Oak, Advantage, ASAT, Predator & Real tree will all work.

You are not required by law to wear hunter orange.

Rain gear is likely the most debated subject in the clothing department. If you want rain gear that is maintenance free, affordable, relatively light weight, durable and fairly quiet, consider a set of Helly Hansen Impertech in Olive Green.

REMEMBER IF YOUR HIKING IN RUBBER RAIN GEAR YOU WILL SWEAT A LOT.

Sitka Gear is what we recommend – Stormfront. You can purchase it from Cabela’s or Barney’s Sport Chalet.

Good quality, 3-ply Gore-Tex (XCR is best) shells to consider include: Patagonia, Mountain Hardware, Taiga Works, Arcteryx and the North Face, these are not camo or quiet, but can work well for mountain type backpack hunts, especially in September and later. When a Gore-Tex jacket becomes dirty and looses its DWR coating, the water will not bead up on the surface, causing it to work poorly. Gore makes a product called Revivex that works on most outerwear.

For Backpack hunting (later season sheep), I recommend this group of 3-ply Gore-Tex rain gear as it does not absorb water and is easier to dry in the wind, without a fire or stove.

To keep your pants from giving you saggy crotch syndrome, make sure they come with a set of suspenders or use a bib instead.

When you combine a waterproof layer and a quiet outer material in one package, you get a quieter product, but it also becomes heavy and more difficult to dry when saturated. If anyone can help solve this dilemma, they will be able to retire and hunt forever. This is not so much an issue on horseback or cabin/wall tent type hunts, but is very important on extended backpack style hunts. If you are comfortable hunting naked, then you will not have to worry about this dilemma.

Underwear

Layering with multiple items is better than wearing just one or two heavy layers. Synthetics are the way to go for comfort, moisture wicking and warmth. In August, bring lighter weight material; in mid-September and later, you should bring heavier weight underwear.

Try products made with Thermax, MTP, Thermastat, Capalene, Polarmax and Micro Fleece. Polypropylene is not as good as it holds odor and should not be dried in a dryer. Merino Wool underwear can work well; Smart wool, Ibex Wear, Arcteryx RHO wool and Ice Breakers are great, especially in late September and October.

I prefer neutral colors: gray, brown, green or black as they can be worn by themselves. If you have long legs, get tall bottoms or you will experience high-water syndrome. Tops with a zip-top and longer neck are warmer and more comfortable when wearing binos. Arcteryx, Cabela’s & Patagonia made great synthetic products.

Regarding underwear, briefs or boxer briefs will work. I like boxer briefs when worn alone with just pants or regular briefs when wearing long underwear bottoms. Make sure that whatever you wear does not chafe your privates (some guides call this “Baboon Butt”) as you will be walking bow-legged and your smile will fade away (this is why I recommend a tube of Tinactin in your daypack). Some people don’t wear underwear underneath long underwear bottoms. Cabela’s MTP, Apalene, Polarmax and Sporthill make great synthetics. Ibex Wear also makes a set of Wool,no-itch briefs worth trying.

Here’s our review of the Ravin R10 crossbow. Ravin presents rifle-like crossbows that are significantly smaller and narrower than crossbows of other brands. The R10 is the successor of the R9 Predator. We also reviewed the Ravin R20 and the R26.

We were very excited to put the Ravin R10 to the test and can already tell you that we had a lot of fun with the crossbow for this review and we will have a lot of fun with the crossbow in the coming years because the R10 is built to last.

In the package we found the Ravin R10 crossbow with Predator Dusk Camo, a 100 yard illuminated long-range scope, three Ravin arrows(300 grain) with nocks and 100 grain practice points, a detachable cocking handle, mounting bracket, and a Ravin user manual.

The crossbow comes in the exclusive to Ravin crossbows, Predator Dusk Camo, and is also available in Gunmetal grey camo.

Ravin R10 Crossbow Specs

Design and Construction

The Ravin R10 is significantly more compact compared to its predecessor, the R9 Predator. The R10 measures a total length of 33 inches, an axle to axle width of 10.5 inches uncocked, and only 6 inches when cocked. The Ravin R10 tips our scales at 6.8 pounds.

The Ravin R10 is a lightweight crossbow that is highly maneuverable, the crossbow is suited for run and gun situations and easy to handle in tight spaces such as hunting blinds,

Ravin is of course famous for its patented Helicoil technology. Crossbows with Helicoil have a number of design advantages, and it allows the Frictionless Flight system to work.

The R10 features Helicoil technology and the Frictionless Flight System. Helicoil allows the cams to rotate 340-degrees, generating higher speeds with better accuracy. With a traditional crossbow, the entire arrow rests on the rail.

The Helicoil system allows an arrow to float freely, eliminating energy loss due to friction. The Helicoil cams ensure that the cable barely touches the rails and there is no downward pressure on the cable. As a result, the cable is not slowed down and barely wears.

Scope

The Ravin scope is a high-end 100 yard crossbow scope that is made of high-quality materials. The scope features fully coated lenses with red and green illuminated reticles. The scope is crystal clear to look through and performs well. The Ravin scope is fog-free and waterproof and contains shock and kickback resistant technology.

Cocking mechanism

The R10 is equipped with a built-in crank cocking mechanism, the so-called Versa-Draw cocking system. This cocking mechanism reduces the crossbow’s draw weight to a mere 12 pounds of force. The cocking handle is of course detachable.

The Versa-Draw cocking mechanism also ensures that the crossbow is cocked 100 percent evenly for an extra clean shot. Cocking by hand is not possible, because of this you are not able to release half-cocked.

Trigger

The Ravin R10 comes with Ravin’s Tac Trigger Fire System. It is a crisp 4 pound trigger that gives you control over the shot. Shooting with the Tac trigger system is not noiseless but very quiet and with little vibration. The trigger system contains anti-dry fire technology to prevent the crossbow from dry firing.

Range Test

The Ravin R10 is a fast and powerful crossbow that shoots arrows with speeds up to 400 feet per second and is capable of delivering 142 KE knockdown power.

We used the Ravin arrows(300 grain) to speed test the Ravin R10. On our chronograph, we measured speeds in the range of 360-380 feet per second.

The R10 is an extremely accurate crossbow. The superb stability of the crossbow combined with Helicoil technology and the excellent 100-yard scope make the R10 one of the most accurate crossbows available on the market today.

WARNING: DO NOT USE NON-RAVIN ARROWS OR NOCKS WITH YOUR RAVIN CROSSBOW.

Assembly

The Ravin R10 comes fully assembled and with a Ravin crossbow manual. You only have to mount the scope, attach the side mount quiver, and accessory bracket. It takes a couple of shots to finetune the scope.

Install the scope

Tho install the scope first attach the bottom rings on the rail. Lay the scope into the bottom rings. Place the top rings on the bottom rings so the scope is surrounded. Lighty snug up the screws on the top rings so you can still freely move the scope in the rings. Adjust the scope until you find the furthest point forward to ensure maximum eye relief (at least 2 inches from your eye) that allows you to see a full field of view.

Remove the elevation turret cap and place a level on the elevation turret. Rotate the scope in the rings until it is level with your the crossbow limbs. Tighten the upper rings, alternating between front and back screws, while still keeping an eye on your scope levels. Keep slightly tightening and alternating from front to back until secure. Rotate the FPS selection dial to match the manufacturer’s advertised speed.

Attach the quiver

Attach the mounting bracket to the bottom of the Ravin R10. Screw the mounting bracket into the hole on the bottom of the Picatinny rail with the sloped surfaces on the mounting bracket pointing forward.

To attach the Quiver to the mounting bracket, press and hold the thumb release on the mounting bracket. Position the posts of the quiver in the holes on the mounting bracket with the hood facing forward. Release the thumb release to lock the Quiver in place.

Reverse the process to remove the quiver from your crossbow. The quiver can be mounted on either side of the mounting bracket. Most right-handed shooters prefer to locate the quiver on the right side.

Attaching and removing the cocking handle

To attach the Cocking Handle to the mounting bracket, press and hold the thumb release on the mounting bracket. Position the posts of the Handle in the holes on the mounting bracket with the Cocking Handle head facing forward. Release the thumb release to lock the Cocking Handle in place. Reverse the process to remove the Cocking Handle.

Recommended Accessories

Arrows & Broadheads

We recommend using 400 grain Ravin Arrows. These arrows are made from 100 percent pure carbon and offer quiet, hard-hitting performance. They feature brass inserts and aluminum nock bushings.

Combine the arrows with Ravin’s mechanical broadheads. These broadheads are optimised for crossbows with velocities of up to 450 feet per second.

Storage and Transportation

We recommend a Ravin R182 Hard-Shell crossbow case to properly store and carry the Ravin R10.

We recommend Ravin’s R260 padded crossbow shoulder sling. It is an adjustable 2 1/2-inch wide padded non-slip sling with a neoprene design.

If anyone has ever hit a deer with their car that seemed to jump straight in front of their vehicle, you might be wondering exactly how dumb deer are.

There are several reasons why deer come across as dumb compared to humans or other intelligent animals like dogs and cats. Keep reading to learn about why deer are so dumb.

Why Are Deer So Dumb?

1. Deer Don’t Understand Traffic

While deer might come across as dumb when they stand in the middle of traffic, this isn’t necessarily lack of intelligence. Deer just don’t understand the context of roads or vehicles.

For thousands of years, deer have evolved to evade predators like wolves, coyotes, hunters, and wild dogs.

Some smarter deer have been observed waiting for breaks in traffic, but many don’t get how it works on a fundamental level.

Deer also have a limited ability to tell how fast a car is going or how close it is to them in the road. This can cause them to be struck by cars when they misjudge how close cars are to them.

2. Deer Get Distracted During Rut

A situation that can make deer act reckless and dumb is when deer go into rut. This is a deer’s mating season where male deers compete with each other for sexual attention from females.

When bucks get excited about sparring and mating during rut, it overrides their survival instincts. This can lead bucks into risky situations they normally wouldn’t engage with outside of rut.

For example, deer that normally bed down during the day will be active during rut. This can lead them to run into trouble that they normally wouldn’t run into if they were hiding normally.

Along with becoming more careless, rut also makes deer more aggressive. While most normal deer would never be dumb enough to attack a human hunter, a buck in rut becomes aggressive.

3. Deer Evolve Slowly

It might seem like deer have been exposed to cars and other human obstacles like fences for a long time.

However, in the history of a deer’s evolution over several thousand years, traffic and human hunters are recent developments.

Many animals can evolve faster than the millions of years humans initially guessed that they could.

Deer have made large leaps to adapt to human encroachment, but they still make mistakes when it comes to dealing with stimuli they haven’t evolved to evade.

4. Deer Are Freeze Or Flight

When it comes to deer survival instinct, deer fall back quickly on two major modes of operation: freezing in place or escaping as quickly as possible.

For problems that aren’t solved by camouflage or flight, deer are woefully underprepared. This makes them seem dumb to people who are able to easily assess dangers that deer can’t.

Freezing in place might save a deer that is trying to hide from a hunter or another predator, but will kill a deer that freezes in response to a car’s headlights.

5. Limited Problem Solving Skills

Deer have been shown to have some problem solving abilities, but they are still limited in how they can react to situations with reason.

On an objective level, deer have been shown to have fewer problem solving abilities than domesticated intelligent animals like dogs and cats.

This limited problem solving skill in deer is a direct result of their environment. Since deer don’t have to manage much except find food and escape predators, they are designed for that.

Deer do have some capacity to solve problems. Deer often won’t return to an area where they have encountered hunters or humans before.

The ability of deer to learn long-term lessons from these encounters is limited compared to other animals.

6. Bright Lights Stun Deer

Deer might appear dumb when they stand directly in the headlights of an oncoming car without moving, but this doesn’t actually reflect on their intelligence.

What actually happens when deer stare into car headlights and become frozen is that they are hypnotized by the lights and become disoriented.

The few seconds it takes deer to realize that the bright lights are an incoming car are long enough for many deer to be struck. This isn’t lack of intelligence, but sensory confusion.

A big problem that deer have with being spotlighted in bright light is that they have evolved strong night vision to fend off predators in the dark.

This heightened vision makes them extra vulnerable to being blinded by bright lights at ight.

7. Deer Have Specialized Intelligence

Deer aren’t as dumb as many people believe they are based on videos of them breaking through bay windows or jumping straight into oncoming traffic.

Rather than putting cognitive energy into learning how to solve problems, deer use their intelligence to pursue their two most important goals: food and safety.

8. Deer Are Sensory Animals

Deer don’t have a lot of intelligence dedicated to higher or abstract thinking, but that doesn’t mean they’re dumb. Instead, deer are geared towards processing sensory input.

Deer have much stronger senses of smell, hearing, and sight than people do. Their sense of smell is equivalent to a dog’s.

Deer can hear higher frequency sounds than humans and can see as well at 100 feet as humans can see at 20 feet.

These sensory capabilities leave them in a better position to protect themselves in the wild than higher problem solving skills would.

Since many of the problems deer face on a day-to-day basis are simple, simple thinking and sharp senses are the solution to many of the trials they face in survival.

To learn more, you can also read our posts on why there are so many spiders in Australia, why photographers can’t touch animals, and why alligators roll.

9. Deer Are Built To Adapt

Even though deer are considered dumb by many people, the ability of deer to adapt to their environments should not be underestimated.

Deer have adapted to many different settings. These include deserts with little access to food and water as well as urban environments where they have to compete with humans.

Deer may have some habits that make them seem dumb to human observers, but there’s no denying that they’ve evolved over thousands of years to live and thrive in varied environments.

This article takes you over the differences between birdshot and buckshot, giving you a better idea of what each round can do. You can think of it as your ultimate guide to shotgun ammo.

The main difference between birdshot and buckshot is their penetrating power. Buckshot pellets are larger and can penetrate two or three walls, while birdshot pellets are smaller and don’t have much penetration power. However, both rounds are lethal at close range.

Now, let’s define each type of ammo and then discuss the differences as well as the pros and cons.

What Is a Birdshot?

Birdshot is a type of shotgun ammunition that is used for hunting birds. The pellets are small and numerous, making them effective for taking down smaller game. The size of the shells also makes birdshot less likely to penetrate deeply into walls, making them a safer choice for home defense.

Birdshots can be identified by their size designation. They’re typically marked with a number from 6 to 8, which refers to the size of the pellets in millimeters. As the size of the pellets decreases, so does their range.

Most people use birdshot for hunting game birds like quail, dove, and pheasant. However, it can also be used to take down small mammals like rabbits and squirrels. It can also penetrate an unprotected human torso up to about 25 yards (23 meters).

What Is a Buckshot?

Buckshot is a type of shotgun ammunition larger in size than birdshot. It comprises lead or steel pellets that are typically about .25 inches (6.35 mm) in diameter. This size allows them to travel further and do more damage than birdshot.

The easiest way to tell the difference between birdshot and buckshot is by judging their size. Birdshot will be much smaller than buckshot. And while birdshot can cause damage, buckshot is specifically designed for hunting purposes, as it can take down larger targets.

This ammo is particularly popular for deer hunting, as the larger pellets are more likely to cause a lethal wound. Buckshot is also available in a variety of different sizes, making it a versatile choice for any hunter.

Differences Between Birdshot and Buckshot

Aside from their penetrating power, buckshot and birdshot are also used for different purposes. Here’s everything you need to know:

Pattern Spread

Birdshot spreads out more than buckshot, making it ideal for home defense or hunting small game. Still, many pellets will concentrate in the middle, resulting in significant damage. The pattern will also spread out further if the shotgun is fired at a distance.

On the other hand, Buckshot doesn’t spread as much as birdshot and will penetrate deeper. It’s suitable for hunting larger game but would be risky in a home defense situation. A lead pallet could pass through several walls, injuring family members or neighbors.

Related Pump Action vs. Semi-Auto Shotgun for Hunting | Pros and Cons.

Range

The range for birdshot is also shorter than for buckshot. Buckshot can travel up to 500 yards (457 meters) before it loses power, while birdshot is effective for about 30 yards (27 meters).

This means that if you’re hunting deer, buckshot is a better option. However, birdshot is a better choice if you’re going after a smaller game or want to use your shotgun for home defense.

Price

Birdshot is also cheaper than buckshot, making it a more affordable option for many shooters. The main reason for this price difference is that buckshot is produced with solid lead pellets. Birdshot pellets are typically made with a steel core covered in a thin layer of lead.

This material difference also accounts for the difference in penetration power. Buckshot will cause more damage than birdshot, but birdshot is still lethal at close range. In the end, it all comes down to what you’re using your shotgun for.

Stopping Power

Buckshot is also more effective than birdshot when it comes to stopping power. A single buckshot pellet can take down an animal, while birdshot will usually just injure it.

This is why buckshot is the preferred choice for hunting large game.

Size of Pallets

The size of the pallets is also a consideration you’ll want to keep in mind when making a choice. Buckshot pellets are typically 9mm in diameter, while birdshot pellets are between .2 and .3 inches (6 and 8mm).

This difference in size means there are more pellets in a buckshot cartridge than in a birdshot one. As you can imagine, with more shells, come more chances to reach your target.

Pros and Cons of Birdshot

Here are a few of the pros and cons of using birdshot:

Pros and Cons of Buckshot

Buckshot also has its pros and cons. Here are the most relevant ones:

12 Gauge vs. 20 Gauge Shells

When choosing shotgun ammo, you have two main options: the 12 gauge or the 20 one. But how can you decide which one is right for you?

The 12 gauge shell is the most popular choice, as it’s larger and more powerful than its 20 counterpart. It can take down bigger targets and has a longer range. However, it’s also more expensive and more challenging to handle.

This shell can be found in birdshot, buckshot, and slug varieties. The slug is a single projectile designed for larger targets like bears, while the birdshot and buckshot are designed for smaller game.

The 20 gauge shell is smaller and less powerful than the 12. However, it’s more affordable and easier to handle, making it a better choice for beginners or those who aren’t as experienced with shotguns.

This shell is available in birdshot and buckshot varieties, with the birdshot being ideal for hunting small game.

So, which one should you choose?

It really depends on your needs and what you plan to use your shotgun for. If you’re looking for a powerful shell that can take down big targets, then the 12 gauge is the right choice for you. However, if you’re looking for an affordable home defense round, the 20 gauge is the way to go.

No matter which one you choose, make sure to practice with your shotgun so that you’re familiar with its recoil and handling. This will help you be safer and much more accurate when you use it.

Related 6 Best Shotguns for Beginners.

Other Calibers of Shotgun Ammo

While the 12 gauge and 20 gauge shells are the most popular choices, other calibers of shotgun ammo are also available. Here are a few of the most common ones:

• .410: This is a small caliber shotgun often used to hunt small game. It’s less powerful than the 12 and 20-gauge shells but is more affordable and easier to handle.
• .357: This is a handgun cartridge that can also be used in a shotgun. It’s more powerful than the .410 but less powerful than the 12 gauge.
• .45: This is a large caliber cartridge designed for hunting large game. It’s more powerful than the .357 but less powerful than the 12 gauge.
• .10: This is the largest caliber shotgun shell available and is more powerful than the 12 gauge. It is often used for hunting large game such as bears and deer.

What Is the Length of Shotgun Shells?

The length of shotgun shells can vary, but they are typically about 2.5 to 3 inches (63.5 to 76.2 mm) long. This length includes the shell casing and the projectile.

Shell length is a crucial factor to consider when choosing a shotgun for home defense. You want to make sure that the shell is long enough to fit comfortably inside your gun, while not getting stuck in the barrel.

It’s also important to consider the length of the projectile. The longer the projectile, the more extensive the distance it can travel. Therefore, if you’re looking for a shell with an extended range, you’ll want to choose one with a longer projectile.

Choose the shell that best suits your needs, and, as always, make sure to practice with it so that you’re familiar with its recoil and handling.

What Is a High or Low Brass Shell?

When looking for shotgun ammo, you’ll likely often see the terms “high brass” and “low brass” thrown around. But what do they mean?

The term “high brass” is used to describe shotgun shells made up of higher-quality brass. This type of brass is stronger than its lower-quality counterpart used in low brass shells. Low-quality shells are made from poor-quality brass. They’re of inferior quality but less expensive.

High brass shells are much more expensive, but they offer significantly more power and a longer range. They’re often used for hunting large game.

Low brass shells are typically used for target shooting and home defense. They offer less power than their counterpart, but are more affordable and easier to handle.

Related 2 3/4 vs 3 Inch Shells | Which Should You Choose?

Low Recoil Shotgun Loads

If you’re looking for a shotgun load that has less recoil, you’re in luck! In today’s market, there’s no shortage of highly efficient, easy-to-use rounds that cause little to no recoil.

Low recoil rounds are designed to reduce the amount of pushback you feel when you shoot.

This quality makes them excellent for beginners looking to gain a bit of accuracy when they shoot. Additionally, they’re also great for more experienced, but smaller-bodied folks who are looking to handle their firearm with a bit more ease.

Low recoil rounds are available in both birdshot and buckshot varieties; however, they’re not as powerful as regular rounds, so they aren’t the best choice for those looking to hunt larger game.

However, they’re very well-suited for target shooting or home defense. Therefore, if you’re looking for a load that will minimize pushback and makes it easier for you to shoot accurately, low recoil rounds are a smart choice.

Lead-Free Birdshot or Buckshot Shells

While it is not currently possible to get birdshot or buckshot shells that are 100% lead-free, some rounds come close.

Lead-free birdshot shells are available in steel rounds. These rounds are not as powerful as lead birdshot shells, but they’re still effective for hunting small game.

Lead-free buckshot shells are available in copper or steel shot. Although these rounds are not as powerful as lead buckshot shells, they’re still effective for hunting large game.

If you’re looking for a lead-free option that is still effective for hunting small and large game, then steel or copper birdshot or buckshot shells may be worth a try.

What Is the Best Shotgun for Home Defense?

The best shotgun gauge for home defense is usually short-range and lighter. For example, birdshot would be a better alternative than buckshot. However, the ideal choice for you will depend on your gun experience and your personal preferences.

For those who are new to shotguns, a 20 gauge may be a better choice. It has less recoil than a 12 gauge, making it easier for you to shoot accurately.

On the other hand, if you’re experienced and prefer a more powerful round, then a 12 gauge may be a better choice.

I want to reiterate that regardless of your experience level or preferences, it’s crucial to practice with your chosen shotgun before relying on it for home defense. Doing so can help you be much better prepared if you ever need to use it in a real-world situation.

Parting Shot

The shotgun is a versatile weapon that many hunters, law enforcement agents, and even homeowners carry to protect themselves. However, the type of ammunition available for these shotguns can differ depending on what the user is looking for.

Birdshot pellets are smaller, and the shotgun is typically used for hunting small game such as birds. Buckshot has larger shells and is used for hunting larger game. Whatever you choose, make sure to be proficient in handling and shooting the ammo and firearm you select.

For more, check out The 9 Best Shotguns for SHTF.

There are a million different ways to catch trout. Bobbers and bait, spinners, crankbaits, and flies are all effective. But if I had to pick one way to fish for trout forever, it would be with spoons.

That’s because not only are spoons incredibly versatile, but they’re also one of the most fun and active ways to fish. You can troll them deep for lake trout, cast and retrieve them in lakes or big rivers, or flutter them through small streams. Spoon fishing can feel like an art, but it’s much more beginner-friendly than fly fishing.

There are about as many different spoons as there are anglers, but the best of the best spoons have stood the test of time. In this article, I’m going to go over the only 7 spoons you’ll ever need to catch trout. They each have their own subtly different advantages, and if you carry a few of them with you then you’ll always have a trout-slaying lure in your tackle box.

When it comes to trout fishing, simple is usually best, and spoons are about as simple as they come. Essentially, a spoon is just a single piece of oblong-shaped shiny metal with a concave surface (hence the name “spoon”). Actions vary, but they’re generally designed to wobble and flutter around when they’re retrieved, reflecting light at all angles as they go.

Their wobbling and flashy action is supposed to imitate small baitfish that aggressive, adult trout feed on. But even trout that feed primarily on insects will hit spoons, too, because that irresistible wobble triggers their instinct to strike.

This article is about spoons, so of course, I’m sticking to spoons. But if you want the lowdown on the best trout lures (including spinners, jigs, and crankbaits), check out my article on it.

And if you’re totally new to trout fishing and want a rundown on how to do it, check out my post on trout fishing 101.

You can skip this section if you’d like, but I want to give some background before I get into my rankings. The genius of a trout spoon is that it can be fished in more ways than you can count, and each spoon has advantages that work better for different situations.

Trout spoons are great for their versatility. You can crank them in, slow retrieve for a heavy wobble effect, or jig and drop to let them flutter on the fall. But you need to know what to try and when, so here are some basic rules.

Best Line For Spoon Fishing Trout

Spoons are for aggressive trout, so you don’t have to worry as much about using light line. Still, I like to use 4-6 pound test monofilament line for easier casting. If I know the water has potential for lunker brown trout or 20-inch rainbows, I’ll size that line up to 8 or even 10-pound test. When I fish for steelhead, I’ll use anywhere from 12-20 pound test line (usually depending on water clarity).

I also like to use fluorocarbon leaders (when I can afford it; check out my post on the best fluorocarbon line for any budget). Fluorocarbon sinks, helping spoons get down quicker in fast water. Fluorocarbon is best paired with 10-pound test braid, which is very thin and cuts through current easier than mono.

I wrote an entire post on the best fishing line for trout, broken down by species and situation, so check that out if you need more detailed info.

How To Retrieve Spoons

Every spoon lends itself to different kinds of retrieves, which I get into in my rankings below. But a typical spoon retrieve is steady, and just a little slower than you would need to fish an average spinner.

Certain spoons, like the Kastmaster, also work really well when retrieved erratically. Spoons like these have a lot of action when falling through the water column, so letting them stop and drop every now and then can be the key to getting strikes.

Then there are what I like to call “flutter spoons” like the Little Cleo. These spoons work great when cast upstream and reeled very slowly through a run or tailout. The current will do most of the work, and they’ll flutter and roll as they move downstream. Reel in just fast enough to keep them off the bottom, and let them swing across the current when they get downstream of you.

Finally there are spoons that work great for trolling, like the Krocodile. These can be cast and retrieved, too, but they’re also great for trolling deep for lake trout or big lakes rainbow trout.

Overall, the best way to retrieve a spoon is the way that’s working that day. Being adaptable is key. Mix up slow, fast, and jigging retrieves until you figure out what’s working.

Honestly, ranking trout spoons is hard. There are standouts, and every spoon on this list has stood the test of time. But the reality is that any of them might be best for any given river, day, or trout species. They’re all proven to catch trout and they all deserve a place in your tackle box.

With that said, here are the best trout spoons, ranked by popularity, reliability, and of course, my own personal opinion.

As many trout anglers will tell you, if you only buy one spoon, make it a Kastmaster.

That’s because of all the spoons on the market, the Kastmaster is the most versatile. Its unique flat shape allows it to be fished in any way imaginable. You can troll at high speeds without sacrificing action, you can cast it a country mile, and you can even jig it vertically for incredible results. It’s so versatile that I even wrote a whole post about it, so check that out for more details (LINK).

Kastmaster comes in a ridiculous amount of colors, but like any good trout spoon, the best colors are gold and silver. Anywhere from 1/12 oz to 1/4 oz work great for trout fishing, but 1/8 oz seems to be the sweet spot for rivers and lakes, and I like 1/12 oz in shallow creeks.

#2. Acme Little Cleo

Being from the northwest, I really wanted to make the Acme Little Cleo lure my number one. It’s a steelhead killer (steelhead are just ocean-going rainbow trout), and the coastal guides and locals swear by it. The Kastmaster is a tiny bit more versatile, but if you were only going to buy two spoons, the Little Cleo and the Kastmaster complement each other perfectly.

While the Kastmaster has a quick, aggressive action that triggers a quick bite, the Little Cleo is a bit more on the finesse side. Letting river current do most of the work is key, and the way that current deflects off of a slowly sinking Cleo can be absolute magic.

Cleo’s excel when swinging through tailouts and slower water. Their perfect flutter as the current slows down is a trout magnet, perfectly imitating a wounded baitfish that got swept through the faster current above. The best way to fish them is to cast slightly upstream and keep the line tight, reeling very slowly to keep them moving downstream and fluttering the whole way through.

When it comes to Little Cleos, blue and silver in 1/6oz or 1/4oz is my go-to color. But solid silver, solid gold, and silver and red have all been solid trout catchers for me and the folks I fish with.

#3. Luhr Jensen Krocodile

The Luhr Jensen Krocidile comes in at number three because it’s one of the best trout lures for trolling. Its elongated design and spin create a more aggressive flash than most other spoons, and it’s killer when the trout are super aggressive. At 2 1/4 inches for the smallest option, it’s the longest lure on this list.

It might not be the best trout spoon for finicky fish, but when the bite is hot, the Krocodile can bring in more fish from longer distances. It’s a great option for speedy trolling in lakes, too, because their weight and elongated body keep them deeper down in the strike zone. I also like it for bank casting during the fall when big trout start to feed more aggressively.

I like these lures in silver and gold, but with the hammered finish. I think the dimples provide even more flash than the smooth versions, and that’s exactly what I use them for. Size totally depends on what I’m fishing for. When trolling for big lake rainbows I’ll use the 3 1/4 inch, 1 oz size, but I’ll size down when casting from the bank for smaller trout.

#4. Thomas Buoyant

The Thomas Bouyant comes in at #4 on my list because it does something that few spoons do: it works exceptionally well at slow speeds. That’s why it’s one of my go-to’s for high mountain streams or shallow creeks. It can be fished effectively at slower speeds than any other spoon on this list, but it still provides a ton of flash and wobble.

With the Buoyant, don’t even tie it on if you want to crank it in. It spins more than it wobbles, and it’ll quickly twist your line up if you’re not careful. Just flutter it and retrieve it slowly, which is great for inducing a strike from wary lurkers.

Copper is my go-to color, but the Rasta-esque “firetiger” can sometimes be the ticket to catching finicky biters. Since it’s a great small stream lure for me, I usually stick to the 1/6 oz option.

#5. Acme Phoebe

When I was first given a few Acme Phoebes, my first impression was “gimmicky”. The fact that it’s cut out into the shape of an actual baitfish seemed weird, given that spoons are really just for flash. But after fishing with them, I realized that something about those offset fin cuts gives the Acme Phoebe a unique action. Make no mistake: the Phoebe catches trout with the best of them.

Like the Thomas Buoyant spoon, it spins rather than wobbles, and it doesn’t sink as fast as most spoons. It works really well for fishing at slow speeds, which makes it a great option for small streams and shallow creeks. Silver and gold in 1/12 oz or 1/8 oz are standbys, but the rainbow trout color has also been great for me.

#6. Eppinger Dardevle

Though there are spoons that I like a little better these days, the Dardevle is still the classic of classics. It was originally released in 1918, and has probably caught more trout in its history than any other trout lure. When my grandpa gave me his old fishing tackle it was chock full of Dardevles, and he swore that those were his go-to trout catchers.

The classic Dardevle spoon color is red and white stripes. Probably because of nostalgia more than anything, that color is what I usually fish with. But trout love silver and gold, too, and there are plenty of color variations to try out. I like this heavy spoon best with a fast retrieve, which is killer for everything from lake trout to big river rainbows to northern pike.

Because it works best on big, aggressive fish, I usually fish for trout with Dardevle’s in the 1/4-1/2 oz size.

#7. Blue Fox Pixee

As a Northwest native, I have to give the Pixee a place on this list. My dad grew up fishing with them for king salmon in Alaska, and they have a special place in every salmon angler’s heart. But trout and salmon are in the same family, and Pixee’s catch tons of trout, too.

Pixees are big and heavy (the smallest option is 1/4oz), so they work best for long casts in deep water. Because I mostly fish smaller creeks, I don’t use them that often. But when the water is fast and deep, there are few better spoons than a Pixee.

My favorite colors are silver with fluorescent red or orange. They make a variety, so any classic trout color should work well.

#8. Everything Else

Spoons are pretty simple, so in all honesty, even Wal-Mart brand spoons will catch trout. But the lures on this list have earned their spots. They’ve been proven fish-catchers for decades, they last forever, and they’re made with quality hooks and materials. They also do something a little different than the rest, and most off-brand spoons are designed to imitate one of these classic 7.

If you do want to try out some cheaper brands, definitely go for it. But check out the hooks for sharpness, try to avoid painted ones (cheap paint is a common way to cut corners), and if it looks like one of the lures on this list, that’s probably a good sign.

FAQ

Spoons are trout fishing at its finest. They have survival kit-level reliability, are easy to use, and have enough versatility to fish any water you can find. If you keep a few of these spoons in your tackle box, you’ll never be without a secret weapon for catching trout.