The shelf life of our products is generally based on the specified best before date (“Bäst före” in Swedish). As with all foodstuffs, the best before date is to be understood as meaning that we guarantee the perfect condition of the goods up to this date if stored appropriately. It does not state that the goods are automatically spoiled after this date.

In principle, the shelf life of meat depends on the temperatures and fluctuations in temperature the meat is exposed to. The higher the storage temperature and the more temperature fluctuations, the shorter the meat will stay in perfect condition. Frozen meat may have a best before date of up to a year printed on the packaging. That date assumes that the meat is kept at -18° C during that whole time. This is of course impossible for us to guarantee when we ship the meat over longer distances using a courier. The meat will most likely arrive to your home at a temperature a few degrees below freezing.

Therefore, after you received your meat, we recommend that you store it in a fridge at maximum 4° C and consume it within five days unless you choose to refreeze it.

In general, if your meat was frozen, we recommend not to re-freeze it. However, basically nothing speaks against refreezing, especially if the food has to be heated up before consumption. The nutrient and vitamin content may suffer slightly, but refreezing is more hygienic than storing it in the refrigerator at temperatures above 0° C.

Our own tests also show that you can assume that the great taste of the meat will not be affected by refreezing. Wild game meat is of such high quality that the theoretical reduction in quality is practically unnoticed.

If you want to cook the meat after its been frozen, it is best to remove it from the freezer 1-2 days in advance and place it in the refrigerator.

In the unlikely event that you have forgotten to take your meat out of the freezer, you can defrost it more quickly in water. Check whether the packaging is still properly vacuumed. If this is the case, you can place the meat, packaging and all, in a container of cold water. This way, a the meat thaws faster. If the packaging is no longer vacuumed, then you can NOT use this method.

Choosing the best fixed blade broadhead for traditional archery can be challenging considering the sheer number of options available these days. You want one that is razor-sharp, tunes well with your arrow of choice, and holds up to the demands of practice sessions and hunting situations.

To save you a lot of time and stress, we did the research for you. We scoured the internet, got personal recommendations from various hunting Facebook groups, and tested some ourselves to bring you what we feel are the 10 best broadheads for traditional archery on the market today.

Which of these will work best for you depends on numerous factors, and what you prefer in a broadhead. Of course, cost almost always impacts the decision-making process, so we were sure to touch on that aspect as well.

Overall Best Broadhead

Zwickey Delta Broadhead

When I polled other bowhunters in one of my traditional archery Facebook groups, one brand that kept popping up was Zwickey. Zwickey has been producing quality fixed blade broadheads for traditional archery since 1938!

The Delta is a big, two-blade, cut-on-contact model constructed of high-carbon steel. The broadhead is 2 9/16 inches long with a 1 3/8-inch cutting diameter and weighs in at 170 grains. While Zwickey offers a glue-on model (featured below), this particular broadhead includes an adapter that allows it to screw into a standard arrow insert.

To prove its toughness, Zwickey claims a Montana hunter took eight bears with the same Delta 2 broadhead.

Best Single Bevel Broadhead

Iron Will Single Bevel SB-150

Iron Will broadheads are known for their high quality and strength which comes at a premium cost. These are the most expensive broadheads on our list, and one of only two single bevel broadheads that made the cut (pun intended) as well.

The single bevel broadhead is designed to maintain the arrow’s rotational spin through impact, resulting in a bone splitting effect and more tissue damage throughout the animal.

Iron Will broadheads feature super beefy .062-inch thick A2 tool-steel blades that are cryogenically treated and triple tempered to 60 HRC hardness. That will allow the Iron Will’s blades to withstand the demands of big game hunting for years, and allow frequent resharpening as needed to maintain a razor-sharp edge.

Best Heavy Broadhead

Steel Force Traditional Series Single Bevel Broadhead

This is the second of two single-bevel broadheads on our list. The long, lean design of the Steel Force provides maximum penetration and superb flight. Of course the single-bevel design will provide maximum damage and break bone if necessary.

The Steel Force is built like a tank out of 0.08-inch thick, knife-grade stainless steel. The broadhead is three inches long and one inch wide with an 11/32-inch ferrule, and is available in right or left bevel in 225 or 300 grains.

Best Glue-On Broadhead for Traditional Archery

Zwickey Eskimo Glue-On Broadhead

This is our second set of Zwickey broadheads on the list, but instead of being a screw-in model for a traditional insert, the Eskimo is made to glue onto a wood arrow or special insert. As we mentioned earlier, Zwickey has been making quality broadheads for decades and is a favorite among traditional bowhunters, and the Eskimo is probably the most popular broadhead they manufacture.

The Eskimo is a two-blade option with a 1 1/8-inch cutting diameter, and a weight of 125 grains. It feature an 11/32-inch taper hole. The cut-on-contact broadhead is made from special high-carbon steel so you can get the edges hair-shaving sharp. The triple-thick tip with special heat-treating resists curling and blows through bone for maximum damage. If you need a glue-on broadhead, you can’t go wrong with the Zwickey Eskimo!

Best 3 Blade Broadhead for Traditional Archery

EBBQ Woodsman Glue-On Broadhead

If you’re looking for a great three-blade option in a glue-on broadhead, then the EBBQ Woodsman may be the perfect option. The Woodsman is machined from a solid piece of tool-grade steel and features a pyramid tip for increased strength.

The broadhead has a one-inch cutting diameter and is coated in advanced pure Teflon for maximum durability. The Woodsman is made in the USA and backed by a lifetime guarantee. Unlike the other options listed here, EBBQ offers the Woodsman in a six pack.

Four Other Great Options

Simmons Land Shark

Another name that kept popping up among diehard traditional bowhunters was Simmons broadheads. The Montana-based company offers a variety of broadheads for traditional archery ranging in weight from 100 to 225 grains to cover every bowhunting scenario from whitetails to cape buffalo.

You won’t go wrong with any of Simmons’ numerous broadhead options, but for this article, we went with the 160-grain Land Shark. The Land Shark features tough .050-inch thick high-carbon steel blades with a respectable 1 5/8-inch cutting diameter. The concave blade design gives them unsurpassed penetration on both big and small game.

Every Simmons broadhead is made by hand here in the U.S. and inspected for perfect alignment before they leave the factory.

Magnus Stinger 4 Blade Arrow Broadhead

My broadhead of choice for my compound and recurve bows over the last two deer seasons has been the 150-grain Magnus Stinger 4-blade head. Like most of the broadheads on our list, the Stinger is a large, cut-on-contact broadhead that can be purchased with or without small bleeder blades.

Made from knife-grade stainless steel, the Stinger is razor-sharp right out of the package. The patented diamond tip provides bone-splitting performance on the largest of game animals, and the aircraft aluminum ferrule is spin tested to within .002 of an inch, providing perfect flight right out of the package.

One of my favorite aspects about Magnus broadheads is their lifetime replacement guarantee. If at any time you break, bend or have any concern with a Magnus broadhead, they will replace it.

Wasp Archery SharpShooter Broadhead

Wasp was one of the first companies to come out with replaceable blade broadheads, and they’ve been providing great broadheads ever since. They’ve recently started offering a traditional broadhead, the SharpShooter, that looks similar in design to the Magnus Stinger.

The 100% steel, cut-on-contact SharpShooter broadhead weighs in at 150 grains and features a razor-sharp .040-inch thick main blade with a 1-inch cutting diameter, and .027-inch thick bleeder blades.

While I love my Magnus Stingers, the Wasp SharpShooters are cheaper and seem to be more readily available through Amazon. At the time I’m writing these, they also feature a 4.6 out of 5 rating on Amazon with over 170 reviews. That’s really good for a broadhead.

Dead Ringer The Butcher Broadhead

Dead Ringer The Butcher broadheads also have a very similar look to the Magnus Stinger with a large main cut-on-contact head and smaller bleeder blades. The Dead Ringer heads feature a 0.925-inch cutting diameter and is only offered in 100-grain weight.

One thing that stands out to me on The Butcher broadhead is its long, tapered tip (as opposed to Magnus’s diamond tip). That lower blade angle makes The Butcher a great choice for anyone shooting a lower-poundage setup to help provide maximum penetration. On the flip side, the long, tapered tip will likely bend if it comes in contact with any hard bone, rocks or trees.

Dead Ringer’s website is lacking in information, so I can’t report on what the broadheads are made from or the thickness of the blades. I will mention that Dead Ringer’s reviews on Amazon are pretty favorable with a 4.4 out of 5 rating at the time I write this with over 220 reviews.

SIK F4 Fixed-Blade Broadhead

You probably haven’t heard of SIK broadheads. I hadn’t before I started researching for this article, but these appear to be great broadheads for traditional archery. These 100-grain, cut-on-contact, fixed-blade broadheads feature four blades for creating a maximum wound channel.

The laser-welded stainless steel broadhead features a .04-inch cut-on-contact main blade with .03-inch bleeder blades to deliver a 1.35″ cutting diameter. The 27° razor-honed edge angle on the full blade enables the F4 to cut forward or backward. All this wrapped into a compact design with field-point accuracy.

Summary

Choosing the best broadhead for traditional archery can be a pain, but you can’t go wrong with any of the ten broadheads featured in this article. Take into consideration what arrows you’ll be using, the overall weight you’re targeting with your arrow setup, and whether you’ll need a screw-in or glue-on broadhead. From there, you can try a few of the options listed here to help you find the perfect broadhead for your longbow or recurve bow this season.

If you have a favorite broadhead for your traditional archery setup not covered here, we’d love to hear about it! Feel free to drop us a note in the comments section below letting us know what you shoot.

Focus is often placed on a bow’s poundage, draw length, overall design and an arrows length, weight, the broadhead used, and components of the spine. With all this information there seems to be very little attention given to where the actual arrow needs to rest on the bow.

Not only is an arrow rest an integral part of a bow setup, but it can also directly affect the flight and accuracy of the arrow.

Let’s analyze two of the more unique arrow rests, the whisker biscuit and the drop-away rest.

Whisker Biscuit

The introduction of the whisker biscuit in 2003 sent shock waves through the bow hunting industry as it was viewed as a revolutionary piece of equipment that was so simple, so obvious, and yet entirely unique when compared to other arrow rests.

A whisker biscuit’s design is made for simple insertion of the arrow for nocking while providing it with complete stability, there is almost no movement in the arrow’s position.

The “whiskers” that hold the arrow in place are synthetic bristles that form a complete perimeter holding the arrow firmly.

Having the arrow completely encased means the archer can shoot from almost any angle or position. It was this benefit alone that catapulted the whisker biscuit to becoming a firm favorite amongst many tree stand hunters.

Another simple, yet masterful, piece of engineering, was the V-shaped cut into the biscuit called the quick shot – an entry slot that allows the arrow to be loaded with efficiency and ease.

Drop Away Rest

There are many varieties and adaptions when it comes to drop-away rests, but essentially, they all operate in a similar fashion and have a unique feature that distinguishes them from the static rests, such as the whisker biscuit.

The drop-away rest holds your arrow in an upright position through the draw cycle and then falls out of the way as the arrow leaves the bow.

The falling away action of the rest means there is nothing impacting the arrow’s flight. The idea is that there is no external influence on the arrow once it receives the bow’s energy.

With the very nature of hunting being unpredictable, most of the drop-away rests geared for hunters have a full-containment system which holds the arrow firmly in place during full draw.

There are three types of drop-away rests:

1. Cable-driven rests: These use a cord that connects to the down cable of a compound bow. Once the bow is drawn, the cable pulls down on the cord, which raises the rest into position. When the arrow is released, the cord flies up and the rest falls.

1. Limb-driven rests: With this type of rest the cord attaches to the top or bottom limb. The cord holds the rest in the down position. When the bow is drawn, the cord relaxes, and the rest rises into position. At the release of the trigger, the limb goes back to its normal position, pulling the cord tight and the rest down.

1. Inertia rests: Here the cord is attached to the don cable or limb, but they can be cocked in the upright position which will help if the bow is drawn and then let down without shooting, the arrow will stay in the shooting position. Only once the string is released will the inertia fall away.

Pros and Cons of the Whisker Biscuit

Pros:

• Simplicity
• No moving parts, means zero chance of mechanical failure and repetitive maintenance
• The arrow is firmly held regardless of how the bow is angled
• Comes in three different sizes to accommodate small to large arrow spines
• Not affected by varying weather conditions

Cons:

• Although very slight, the whisker biscuit does reduce speed and accuracy of the arrow. The difference is minuscule which should not affect hunters, but it is something to consider for competition shooters
• Whiskers will put stress on the arrow vanes, and they will need to be re-fletched after a while
• Adds a noise to the bow. Again, a minor issue but many bow hunters want their setup to be as quiet as possible

Pros and cons of the Drop Away Rest

Pros:

• Allows for better accuracy and tighter groupings for those hunters who want to be specific in their target shooting
• Minimal friction on the arrow which turns out a higher arrow velocity
• Quieter as the arrow does not have to pass through any bristles

Cons:

• Prone to failure with moveable parts, constant maintenance must be done
• Pricing of a drop away rest on average can be higher than a whisker biscuit
• The arrow may fall off from the rest while moving or crawling to get closer to an animal
• Moveable parts tend to be affected by extreme weather conditions
• Attaching the cords to the limbs or strings may take time or be forgotten by the hunter

Which is Faster?

Speed is on every bowhunter’s mind, and many have questioned whether an arrow rest affects the speed of an arrow? The short answer is yes, but which arrow rest is faster and by how much?

Various chronograph tests on arrows fired from a whisker biscuit versus one fired from a drop-away rest have consistently shown that the arrow from a whisker biscuit is on average 3 – 6 feet per second slower than a drop-away rest.

It is simple physics that the more drag created on a moving object, the slower its speed and momentum will be.

What is interesting however, was the variation in speed of arrows with different vanes when fired from a whisker biscuit.

• 4” Vanes slower by 1 – 2 feet per second
• 5” Vanes slower by 5 – 7 feet per second
• 5” Vanes with a 6-degree helical slower by 12 – 15 feet per second

How to Choose the Right Rest?

In order to choose the correct arrow rest, it is best to match the rest with the type of archer you are.

A hunter that prefers to put a stalk on through wooded areas or has no problem crawling over rocky ground to close in the distance on an animal would want their arrow to be held firmly in place and not have to fiddle with cables or drop plates just before letting an arrow fly.

Hence, they would be inclined to choose the whisker biscuit.

Then you have a competition shooter that needs every part of their bow to be perfectly in tune and adapted to pinpoint accuracy.

Competitive shooters will scrutinize every inch of their equipment and wouldn’t settle for bristles that may influence the accuracy of the arrow by as little 1/16th of an inch. This accuracy comes from the drop-away rests.

Some questions that may help with decision making:

1. Are you happy to sacrifice a small amount of speed for arrow stability?
2. Is the risk of mechanical failure a concern?
3. Are you ok with replacing vanes on a regular basis?

Conclusion

Although these points can be seen as minor or easily managed through the correct maintenance of your equipment, they are none the less still issues which many archers would need to consider when deciding on a whisker biscuit vs drop-away rest.

Polar bears and grizzly bears are both members of the bear family, Ursidae. They are similar in many ways, but there are also some important differences between them. One key difference is size: polar bears tend to be much larger than grizzlies.

Polar Bears Vs Grizzly Bears Size

One average the Polar Bear is bigger in size than the Grizzly bear. A typical adult male polar bear is more than twice the size of a typical adult female grizzly!

Lets analyze both these beasts in terms of their weight, height & length:

Polar Bears Vs Grizzly Bears Weight

• Adult male polar bears typically weigh between 600 pounds (272 kg) and 1,500 pounds (680 kg), while adult female polar bears weigh between 330 pounds (250 kg) and 550 pounds (250 kg).
• Adult male grizzlies usually weigh between 400 pounds (181 kg) and 800 pounds (363 kg), while adult female grizzlies typically weigh 300 pounds (136 kg) to 400 pounds (181 kg).

So in terms of weight, the polar bears are heavier than grizzly bears.

Polar Bears Vs Grizzly Bears Height

On all of its four legs

• The height of the polar bear is 1.2 to 1.6 meters (4 to 5.3 feet) while that of female polar bear is 0.81 to1.19 meters (2.8 to 3.11 feet).
• The height of the male grizzly bear is 1.07 to 1.37 meters (3.6 -4.6 feet) while that of female grizzly bear is 0.91 to 1.12 meters (3 to 3.8 feet).

So in terms of shoulder height the polar bear is taller than the grizzly bear.

When Standing on its Hind Legs

• Adult Male Polar Bear Height is 2.4 to 3 meters (5.9 to 9.8 feet)
• Adult Female Polar Bear Height: 1.8 to 2.4 meters (5.9 to 7.8 feet).
• Adult Male Grizzly Bear Height: 2.13 to 2.44 meters (7 to 8 feet).
• Adult Female Grizzly Bear Height: 1.7 to 1.98 meters (5.6 to 6.6 feet).

So when the bears are standing on their hind legs, the polar is taller than the grizzly bear.

Polar Bears Vs Grizzly Bears Body Length

• The body length of a male polar bear is between 2.6 – 3 meters (8.6 to 9.10 feet) while that of female polar bear is 2.4 to 2.8 meters (7.2 to 9.2 feet).
• The body length of a male grizzly bear is between 2.13-2.44 m (7 to 8 feet) while that of female grizzly bear is 1.7-1.98 meters (5.6 to 6.6 feet).

So in terms of body length, the polar bear is taller than the grizzly bear.

The Biggest Ever Polar Bear vs The Biggest Ever Grizzly Bear

• The biggest polar bear ever recorded was in 1960 which was 3.9 meters (12.8 feet) tall and weighed around 2,209 lbs i.e 1,002 kg.
• One of the tallest grizzly bears ever recorded in captivity was called Goliath. It lived at Space Farms Zoo and Museum – Sussex, NJ between 1967 and 1991. It was 3.7 meters (12 feet) tall and weigh a short ton.

So when it comes to the biggest ever bears on record, the polar bear is bigger than the grizzly bear.

Polar Bears Vs Grizzly Bears Size Comparison

Polar Bear Grizzly Bear Male Female Male Female Weight 600-1,500 lbs 330-550 lbs 400-800 lbs 300-400 lbs Height on four legs 4 – 5.3 feet 2.8 to 3.11 feet 3.6 – 4.6 feet 3 to 3.8 feet Height on hind legs 5.9 – 9.8 feet 5.9 – 7.8 feet 7 – 8 feet 5.6 – 6.6 feet Body Length 8.6 – 9.10 feet 7.2 – 9.2 feet 7 – 8 feet 5.6 – 6.6 feet

Are polar bears bigger than grizzly bears?

Yes polar bears are bigger than grizzly bears. See the picture below to have a clear idea.

How Big is a Polar Bear

Dusting clay pigeons is a great way to spend time with your shooting buddies.

Most ranges probably have a trap range, a skeet range and maybe even a sporting clays set-up of some sort. But what about the casual day out at your backyard range? How do you get those clay pigeons sailing through the air so you can smoke them?

Today we’ll take a look at some options that will allow you and your shooting buds to set up a fun clays range for the afternoon.

Types of Throwers

There are really two main types of throwers available. Manual and automatic.

The manual throwers can be as simple as this MTM Clay Target Thrower. If you practice a bit and have someone with a decent arm, this option will work. However, for a better shooting experience let’s stick to the throwers with a spring activated throwing arm.

Manual throwers are classified as “full-cock” or “3/4-cock” mechanisms. The full-cock machines mean you have to manually pull the lever back to reset it against the full force of the spring.

On the other hand, the 3/4-cock machines have a gear or clutch mechanism that only lets the arm travel in one direction and the momentum of the arm partially cocks the machine so you have much less effort required to reset the machine.

Check out this video from Do All Outdoors showing how easy the 3/4-cock traps are to reset.

Got all that? Now we’ll go into the best clay throwers.

1. Do All Outdoors – Backyard Clayhawk 3/4-Cock Trap

This trap is a great entry level 3/4-cock thrower. It has a tripod-type base that can be staked to the ground or mounted on a piece of plywood something else to make it more stable.

The trap can launch clays up to 70 yards and is adjustable up and down and side to side. It can also be configured to launch rabbit targets. These are meant to mimic a bouncing, running rabbit and roll on their edge along the ground.

2. Trius One-Step Trap

If you can’t talk someone into some range time, the One-Step allows the shooter to launch clays and shoot by themselves. This is a full-cock thrower, so the reset effort is a bit more.

However, you can load singles or doubles and also launch high-angle clays. To launch the bird simply step on the lever to release the throwing arm.

3. Do All Full-Cock Competitor Trap

For $29 you can hardly go wrong with this basic trap. The trap allows you to launch singles, stacked doubles and or side-by-side doubles. Clays can be launched up to 55 yards with this little machine. I borrowed my brother-in-law’s Competitor to teach my nephew the basics of shotgun shooting.

By easing up the spring tension a bit you can slow the targets down and allow them to “float” a bit and get new shooters into the groove and learning how to engage moving targets. A great entry level trap.

Note: this trap needs to be staked securely or mounted to something heavy so it doesn’t jump around too much.

Automatic Throwers

When you’re ready to spend more time on the range and want speed up your shooting it’s time to look at getting an automatic trap. These traps will generally be powered by a 12-volt battery and allow you to load 50 or more clay targets in the magazine.

The trap is released remotely by a wired switch or a wireless set-up depending on the model. Most of the remote switches are designed to be foot operated so you can launch targets when shooting by yourself.

The coolest thing about automatic traps is that they are available with options that move side-to-side, up and down or both so you never know exactly how the target will be launched!

4. Champion WheelyBird 2.0

The WheelyBird 2.0 is the upgraded model of the WheelyBird – and the upgrades are nice! The cycle time is only 1.75 seconds and there is now a wireless remote and a foot pedal to allow for more variation and shooting angles.

Best of all, the WheelyBird 2.0 can launch targets up to 75 yards.

5. Do-All Outdoors Fowl Play Automatic Clay Pigeon Skeet Thrower Trap

The Fowl Play trap has a lot of great features for practicing your wing shooting skills. The trap will throw targets up to 55 yards and can be adjusted from 5 to 35 degrees of elevation.

To really add some challenge to your practice just bolt on the Adjustable Wobbler Kit. The Wobbler allows targets to launch from random left to right angles as well as changing the elevation. The Fowl Play trap comes with a 25 foot wired foot pedal, but a wireless upgrade is available.

This is a great thrower, to begin with, and the optional upgrades allow you to continue to improve over time.

What’s your take on it?

Closing Thoughts

If you are an aspiring wing-shooter having your own trap makes a lot of sense. As long as you have a safe area to practice these traps allow you to shoot anytime you want and will likely save you a fair amount of money over time.

If I were to purchase a manual trap today I’d definitely be looking at 3/4-cock models because of their ease of resetting.

I really like the Fowl Play automatic thrower from Do-All Outdoors because as a base model you get everything you need plus the option to upgrade and continue challenging your shooting abilities.

No matter which one you choose, you’re sure to have a blast every time the shooter yells “Pull!”.

Want more shotguns in your life? Check out our 5 Best Home-Defense Tactical Shotguns!

Do you shoot trap? What’s your favorite shotgun? Let us know in the comments! Then check out our Best Trap, Skeep, & Clay Shotguns.

Today I’m going to show you the best scope rings.

In fact:

I’ve hand-tested over 15 scope rings alone for this review.

The best part?

I’ve sorted the scope rings by use. So whether you’re on a budget or need the best AR scope mounts, you’ll find it here.

Let’s dive in!

Different Types of Scope Mounts

Looking for a scope mount but not sure what kind to get or how to install it?

I’ll help you decide, and give you the instruction necessary to mount your scope.

Weaver vs Picatinny vs Dovetail Mounts

We see these names all the time in the gun world, but what the heck do they mean?

Being a shooting enthusiast for years, I never gave much thought to the matter. I could install most of my rings on any of them interchangeably, and didn’t worry much about it, until I tried to install a spec Picatinny mount on a Weaver rail.

Here’s a basic breakdown without getting too complicated.

Dovetail Mounts

First, the dovetail mount.

This is by far the simplest type of mount, and you may come across it with rimfires more than other weapons.

In short:

Two grooves are milled into the frame or receiver of the weapon, and your scope mounts attach directly to this.

There are no grooves or indents to allow space for the tightening bolt to fit over. Luckily, most of the time the dovetails are cut in such a way that they shouldn’t really interfere, but this is also where they slip up, literally.

Heavy recoil can cause your rings to slide a bit forward along the dovetail, inching their way toward the end of it.

The little grooves cut into modern rails are there to prevent this.

Weaver and Picatinny Mounts

Weaver mounts and Picatinny rails look very similar.

They both have a flat top with slots cut across it and the edges are wider than the top and bottom, giving your mount something to bite into.

The biggest difference here is tolerance.

Weaver bases don’t follow a standardized format, and there are generally fewer slots cut into a rail of the same length. The slots also tend to be narrower than Picatinny slots.

What this means is that the bolt from a Picatinny base may not always fit into a Weaver style base, and Weaver rings won’t fill the slot on a Picatinny rail. You also have less choice in where to mount your optics due to less slots available.

In short, get Picatinny rails. But sometimes you can get away with using them interchangeably.

If you do put Weaver style mounts on a Picatinny rail, make sure they are as far forward in the slot as they will go when you tighten them down, so they don’t creep forward as we discussed with the dovetail mounts.

Specialty Mounts

Some mounts are just odd.

There are a few manufacturers out there who have created their own mounting systems that match special attachments for scopes. While the rings themselves are usually a standard size, the mounting system is anything but.

A classic example is the Leupold Dovetail mount.

These attachments are not based on any kind of rail system, but a fixed pivot that cannot ever slide. If you don’t intend to use any kind of quick release mount, these can be a great touch, and they are usually machined to fit certain rifles.

The downside is that they might not fit all scopes, and you may have to buy rings with a built-in offset, known as cantilever rings. You’ll also want a special wrench to mount these rings.

Speaking of mounting, if you want to remove your AR-15 front sight, read my guide on that.

Other base designs abound, but none are more popular than the almost universal Picatinny rail system. Some guns require a specialty mounting platform because the rifle doesn’t conform to a shape that easily accepts a scope rail, like SKS mounting systems.

Different Types of Attachments

Rings are what typically connects the scope to the mounting base, and there are many ways to do this.

Since nearly every gun has a different mounting setup, and every scope has its own dimensions, there are several varieties that solve different problems that might come up when trying to mount a scope to a rifle.

Dovetail Rings

If your weapon already has integral slots cut in it, then you can sometimes get away without installing a mounting base at all, and just buy rings that fit your dovetail grooves.

Generally, the grooves will be spaced either 9mm or 11mm apart, and it’s important to get the right rings, or a more flexible ring mount that fits both.

While you’ll save some money on rings and the lack of a new mounting base, this is not always the best option. On high power rifles the rings can move under recoil, and that’s a never a good thing. Even if there are locking tabs, these can break under even the modest kick of a .308.

On the other hand, if you are scoping a rimfire or a pellet gun, sometimes a set of dovetail rings is the perfect option. Easy, cheap, and effective.

Picatinny and Weaver Rings

Mostly, these are interchangeable, but there are always exceptions.

One absolute rule on this is not to try and mount Picatinny rings or other attachments onto a Weaver style rail if there are multiple screws in the same plate. The grooves in Picatinny rails are standardized, not so with Weaver bases.

Other than that, you can try, but in this case it’s best to get Weaver rings as they will always fit Picatinny rails.

Picatinny is the new gold standard when it comes to rings, so if you are installing a rail for the first time, go with what everyone is using, and you won’t be disappointed. After the military adopted this style for their M4 rifle rings, the rest of the world soon started using them.

Red Dot Attachments

One thing I love about red dots is that they come with their own mounting system, so you don’t generally need to go shopping for a mounting plate.

However, if you are putting a red dot on a pistol, there may be some other work involved.

Mounting plates can be installed on rails, in the dovetail that holds the rear sight on the pistol, or mated to a custom mount machined directly into the slide.

On a rifle, the standard again is that they attach to picatinny rails, though they do exist for other mounting styles. You can get air-rifle and rimfire red dots that will mount to your rifle’s dovetail.

Ring Height

Attachments give a lot of things to consider. There are different styles, but one of the most important considerations is the height.

The height is measured from the top of the scope base to the center of the ring. One reason this is so important is because scopes typically have a very large objective lens on the front, and you want rings that are tall enough to accommodate it.

The last thing you want is to finish installing the mount and rings, and then not be able to get the scope in because it’s touching the barrel.

As a general rule of thumb, the rings should be at least half as tall as your scope’s objective diameter. This is the last number on the scope description.

For instance a 1-3×40 would have a 40mm and require at a minimum 20mm tall rings. Much of this depends also on the rifle design and the thickness of the scope body.

There is an advantage, of course, to keeping your scope as low to the bore as possible. When you zero the rifle, the drop calculations will be affected with different scope heights. Close to the bore means that there will be less elevation change in the bullet at shorter ranges, or flatter shooting.

Ring Size

Another important consideration is the size of the scope rings.

Generally speaking, there are two that most scope bodies use:

One inch, and 30mm.

Many brands make both, so until you know what the scope tube size is, it’s best to hold off on buying rings.

While the solution is simple, I mention this here because too often it happens that shooters will buy expensive rings, only to find out that they aren’t the right size for the scope they want.

Murphy’s Law in full effect.

Specialty Rings

If you are going to be using a special mounting base, then you need to get rings that match it.

Leupold Dovetails are the most common outlier, but be sure that you are getting rings specifically made for any non-rail systems.

There are also a number of standard style rings that have different mounting designs.

Cantilevered rings are the most common. These include one ring and generally attach to the base with one bolt (sometimes two), but they are offset from their mount point.

If you have a short rail or limited mounting points, cantilevering can give you more options for scope fit and placement, by changing the distance between your rings or shifting the scope position forward or back.

There are also dual-ring attachments that contain two rings on the same base mount. One attachment, and you have everything you need to attach your scope.

The options go on and on, including integrated bubble levels, or even extra bits of rail mounted to the sides or tops of the rings themselves so that you can add other devices to the same mount point right beside your scope. One use of this might be a night vision scope with a separate IR source mounted to the side.

Quick Detach Attachments

And how could I talk about attachments without mentioning quick disconnects. These attachments have a lever at the bottom instead of a screw or bolt to lock them to the rail.

If you want to remove the scope after installing it on a Picatinny rail, you simply flick the levers and pull it off. How cool is that?

This option is so popular that it is quickly becoming a standard all its own.

The 8 Best Scope Rings

If you’re pressed on time, here’s a quick list of the best scope rings:

1. Aero Precision: Best Scope Mount for AR-15
2. Vortex Optics Pro Series Riflescope Rings: Best 30mm Scope Rings
3. Leupold Rifleman: Best for the Money
4. Talley Lightweight: Best 1 Inch
5. Warne 1” Matte PA Rings: Best Rings For Heavy Recoil
6. Warne Quick Detach: Best Quick Release Mount
7. Burris XTR Rings: Best for Picatinny Rail
8. Seekins Precision: Best Scope Rings for Long Range Shooting

1. Aero Precision: Best Scope Mount for AR-15

The Aero Precision is the best scope mount you can get for the AR-15.

It’s not only great for high-end optics, but it’s also the lightest mount on the market.

But that’s not all. Here’s why I have the Aero Precision mounted on my AR-15 to this day…

Durability

The Aero Precision mount’s lean design does not define its strength.

In fact, a bulky mount doesn’t always mean a sturdy build.

It’s constructed of extruded aluminum with a hard-coat, black matte finish.

Plus, the edges are rounded and smoothed that compliments its design.

Which makes it a lean, mean mounting machine.

Eye Relief

The eye relief will mostly depend on your specifications when mounting it to your AR-15 scope.

But this mount also works for a variety of different heights and length for your eyes.

In fact, the only issue with the eye relief was with the installation of the mount itself.

When trying to adjust for eye relief, the included mount rings were not securely holding my scope in place.

Which means you should probably switch the rings out for something more reliable.

I highly recommend these 30mm LaRue rings to hold your scope in place while adjusting it for eye relief on this mount.

Installation

Now here’s the tricky part.

When it came to installing the scope mount, there were some issues.

Due to the integral ring’s pinch bolt style, this can cause the scope to rotate as you use a Torx tool to screw it on.

Which means the reticle can become unleveled. So torquing the mount became trial and error.

But one solution is to use a stack of gauge blocks to get a snug grip between the bottom of the scope and the mount.

And then torque the rings to keep the mount in place for a level scope.

If one thing could be improved on this mount, it would definitely be the installation.

But it’s up to everyone’s individual specifications to decide how tricky it is to properly install this mount.

So keep it in mind, but the other great qualities of this mount remain unmatched.

Who’s the Aero Precision for?

The Aero Precision scope mount is a great option if you’re looking for a lightweight and sturdy mount for your scope.

Plus, it’s a high-quality mount that’s also affordable for most budgets.

So whether you’re into hunting or target shooting at the range, the Aero Precision is a versatile mount any AR-15 scope.

2. Vortex Optics Pro Series Riflescope Rings: Best 30mm Scope Rings

I’m a big fan of using rings to mount my scopes, especially on tactical rifles.

They’re time-tested, rugged, and ultra-reliable.

When you first start using them, they take some getting used to.

If you can put your first pair of rings onto your rifle the first time perfectly, I applaud you.

After you get the hang of it though, you’ll never go back to one piece mounts again.

Vortex is one of the best gun accessory makers in the business.

They offer incredible quality, precision, and durability for a comparatively low price.

Plus their warranty is unbeatable.

So when they came out with their Pro Series Rings, I had to give them a shot.

Their extra high 30mm rifle rings are now my hands down favorite type of mount.

In my opinion, they’re basically one of the best AR scope mounts you’ll find.

Keep reading and I’ll tell you why you need to give the Vortex Optics Pro 30mm Rings a shot.

Durability

Vortex is a company known for putting out high quality and insanely durable products.

Their Pro Series rings are no exception to that claim.

Made from T6 aluminum, these things are solid.

They’re thick and attach securely to your rail or rifle with 4 T-25 Torx screws per ring.

Once these rings are on, they stay on.

They’re not going to get bent, or twisted, or knocked out of place no matter what you do to them.

It’s their job to stay put and keep your zero and that is exactly what they do.

In addition, they’re coated with an anodized finish that offers a ton of weather protection.

The best part is that even though each ring is made of a solid chunk of nearly indestructible metal, they’re still super lightweight.

That means you won’t have to worry about compensating for the weight of them like I’ve had to with some one-piece mounts.

I put these on my scout rifle and after over 500 rounds, my zero is still in place.

I’ve marched this setup through the brush, up and down hills, across streams, and climbed trees with it.

They’ve been banged against rocks, scraped through weeds and bushes, and submerged in water.

The rings have never budged so much as a centimeter.

I’m by no means gentle on my equipment and I couldn’t put a dent in them.

To me, that speaks for itself.

Eye Relief

Vortex offers low, medium, high, and extra-high rings to fit any standard 30mm scope.

That means depending on your scope and rifle, you can customize your eye relief for the perfect fit.

My advice is to generally get a bit higher than you think you’re going to need.

It’s a lot easier to lift your eye up a bit than it is to mash your cheek onto your rifle to see through your optic.

Plus, if you pick rings that are too short for your scope, you might have to mount them farther back, compromising your eye relief.

If you haven’t picked out a scope for your scout rifle yet, check out these muzzleloader scopes.

Installation

If you’ve never mounted a scope before, check out this page for mounting basics.

Although rings require a little more precision to mount than one-piece mounts do, they’re still fairly easy.

This is a great video from Vortex Optics showing you how to tighten their rings.

One of the best things about these rings is that they have the torque specifications engraved directly onto the rings.

So even if you take them off and switch them to another rifle, you’ll always know exactly how tight to tighten them.

They’ll easily attach to any Picatinny rail or Weaver mount you have as well.

Thanks to the torque specifications and everything that you need to mount the rings included, it took me less than 20 minutes to get them on and tightened.

They’re extremely user-friendly, and you shouldn’t be intimidated.

If you have any issues make sure to take advantage of Vortex’s great customer service.

Who’s the Vortex Optics Pro Series Riflescope Rings For?

If you’re looking for unbeatable quality and durability, then these are the ring mounts for you.

They’re perfect for long-range rifles, scout rifles, and thanks to their incredible durability they even work on air rifles.

If you’re in the market for a new air rifle scope, check out these scopes.

Plus, because they come in so many different heights, they’re perfect for larger scopes.

These rings are also an excellent choice for rifles with high recoil because they just don’t budge.

To review:

• Durable
• Lightweight
• Anodized finish
• Made in the USA
• Made from T6 aluminum
• Torque setting engraved on rings
• Comes in a variety of models to fit your needs

Plus they’re covered by Vortex’s Lifetime VIP warranty.

No matter what happens to your rings, who you give them to, or when it happens, Vortex has you covered.

They’ll replace or repair them free of charge.

It doesn’t matter if it’s been a week or eighty years, when they say lifetime, they mean it.

If you haven’t made the switch to ring mounts for your rifles yet, I urge you to take a look at the Vortex Optics Pro Series yourself.

Trust me, you’ll thank me later.

3. Leupold Rifleman: Best for the Money

Every shooter knows that Leupold is a reputable brand that manufactures products with excellent workmanship.

This household name is well known to design high-quality yet affordable scopes, including a line of mounts called “rifleman rings.” For less than $25, the scope rings have more than 3,000 reviews all over the internet.

The good news: You don’t need to read through thousands, just this one.

Interested? Let’s dive in…

Durability

The Leupold Rifleman rings are sturdy and reliable.

The workmanship is excellent, the fit clean, the pieces arrived without marks or scratches.

Take note:

The rings are not made of steel.

Although they’re precision-machined from aircraft-grade aluminum for strength and lighter weight, it can still create challenges.

Read the directions before mounting. Do not overtighten the scope rings on the optic. If they loosen up, use a thread-locker to prevent the scope from moving when in use.

Design and Fit

The Leupold Rifleman rings are designed for a 1-inch tube scope, and the base will fit any Weaver/Picatinny rail.

Don’t forget:

Proper ring height is needed for clearance of the scope objective from the barrel.

The Rifleman rings come in different heights. I recommend high rings for 50mm objective lenses, medium rings for 40mm, and low rings for 32mm or less.

Once fitted into my AR-15 rifle’s grooves, the mounting screws disappeared, providing the maximum unobstructed viewing area beneath the scope.

Speaking of mounting…

Installation and Eye Relief

Proper installation is crucial.

The box comes with a hex key, set screws, and a straightforward guide.

In fact:

I have a Leupold VX-6HD LPVO mounted on my Benelli semi-auto .300 win mag using the Rifleman Rings.

It took me less than 10 minutes to set up.

The Rifleman Rings also allow any optic to be mounted forward far enough for proper eye relief.

The scope held zero after 250 rounds and never budged.

Final Verdict: Who’s the Leupold Rifleman Rings for?

Are they the best in the market? Most likely not.

But do they work? Absolutely!

You can spend $100 on Leupold’s better rings, but for $20, I’d say the Rifleman Rings are pretty decent.

Here’s why…

• Holds zero
• Budget-friendly
• Quick Installation
• Reliable construction

Plus, the rings come with Leupold’s lifetime warranty. You can get them replaced if they arrive at your door with defects.

All in all, Leupold Rifleman Scope Rings are trustworthy and quality scope mounts that won’t disappoint or break your bank.

If you’re on the search for the best AR scope mounts, check out my latest review!

4. Talley Lightweight: Best 1 Inch

Do you hunt dangerous game in unforgiving territory? Do you need a scope mounting system that can take a serious beating and hold zero?

If you want a bombproof mounting system, you should seriously consider the Talley Lightweight mounting system.

Durability

If you’ve been around firearms for a while, you’ll notice that the most tried and true way to mount a scope to a rifle is a two-piece mounting system. A set of rings that wrap around the scope. Then those rings attach to a base that is screwed into the rifle’s receiver.

The base and rings are separate pieces. Sometimes that joint where the base and rings come together can be a weak spot.

The joint can be shaken loose with recoil. Or I can damage that connection when I knock my scope scrambling up a rocky hillside searching for a better shot or cover.

Talley has eliminated that weak spot.

Their rings are machined directly to their base meaning this system screws right into my receiver. There’s no joint between the bottom ring and the attached base because it is all one solid piece of 7000 alloy.

This gives me more rigidity and greater stability than any other mounting system out there. My scope will hold zero only as well as its mountings. If the mountings shake loose with recoil, then I’ll have to resight my rifle.

Not so with a Talley Lightweight.

Because this mounting system is perfectly machined as a single piece, I can beat the ever-living-daylights out of my rifle and scope and those mounts will hold steady.

Even better, the rings are coated with Cerakote and will be resistant to scuffs, scrapes, and rust. This system will not only hold your scope steady-but it will look good doing it.

The Talley Lightweight is easily the best AR scope mounts you can find.

But, if mounting without a rail isn’t your thing, then these other mounting options might be more useful to you.

Eye Relief

While Talley recommends that the rings are best mounted directionally-I found that by turning them around I can better adjust the distance between my eye and my eyepiece to get the best eye relief distance for my optic.

Installation

The Talley Lightweight rings will install a little different than you may be used to. It doesn’t matter if you have a weaver or a picatinny mount on your rifle-you won’t be using it.

If you have a rail you will need to remove it.

These rings mount directly into your receiver. If you don’t have any holes to accept the mounting, you’ll need to have your receiver professionally drilled and tapped.

After I got my gun back from my gunsmith, screwing in the bottom portion of the mounting system-the base, if you will-was simple.

I didn’t want these screws to loosen over time, so I locked them down with Locktite Blue 242. I didn’t need much.

Once I attached the bases, I could set in my scope then the top rings. I used a level set to keep everything lined up

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and a torque wrench to make sure I didn’t over tighten.

Please note that while the alloy that these rings are made from is fantastically sturdy-you will strip the screws if you tighten them as much as you can. Do not over-tighten the screws! You’ll want to torque them between 17in/lbs to 20 in/lbs.

Who’s the Talley Lightweight for?

The Talley Lightweight rifle scope rings are for anyone who wants an extra-durable mounting setup. Don’t let their light 4 oz weight fool you. These rings are built tough and can withstand any abuse you can give them.

To recap Talley Lightweight’s top features:

• Easy to install
• Cerakote finish
• Single piece system
• Weigh in at only 4 oz

If you like these mounts, but still need a scope, check these durable optics out.

5. Warne 1” Matte PA Rings: Best Rings For Heavy Recoil

Warne is a company that I think deserves more attention.

Their products are incredibly durable, strong, and reliable.

They make some of the best permanent riflescope mounts that I’ve ever used.

Plus, their products are made entirely in the USA.

That being said, let me introduce you to the Warne 1” Matte PA rings.

They’re an insanely good value for the price, and you’d be hard-pressed to find scope rings of a higher quality.

Warne rings are rock solid, and once you’ve got them tightened down, they’re not going anywhere.

Neither is your zero.

Keep reading and I’ll tell you all you need to know about the Warne 1” rings.

Durability

It’s not often that I’m able to find a mount or set of rings that can really handle the kick of a heavy recoil rifle.

Standard mounts are fine for those fancy high-tech scopes because you’re usually not using them on anything with a kick.

Put one on a .17HMR and you’re in business.

Put one on a Ruger and there’s a good chance your rings and your scope are dust.

That’s where the Warne 1” rings come in.

These rings are ultra-durable.

They’re made of stainless steel and have been proven to be the strongest rings on the market.

In addition, they’re equipped with a no-slip positive recoil surface.

That means they’re built to withstand even the heaviest recoil.

It works by evenly distributing the force of the recoil across the entire setup.

That way no one part is bearing the brunt of the force, so it’s a lot easier on your equipment.

I’ve used these rings on shotguns, scout scopes, and ARs, and the rings have never budged.

This kind of quality and durability is insane for the low cost.

If you’re looking to go big game hunting, these are the rings you need.

If you just want to make sure nothing budges during your deer hunt, these are the rings you want.

Basically, these are fantastic all-around rings for whatever purpose you need.

Eye Relief

Your eye relief is really going to depend on your scope.

The great thing about using rings rather than one-piece mounts is that you have more control over where you place them.

Since they’re more versatile, you can adjust them for your perfect eye relief.

I’m personally a big fan of long eye relief scopes.

I like the wiggle room they offer and the ability to adjust my eye for the shot.

If that sounds like you, then these rings are perfect.

They work great with these long eye relief scopes.

Installation

I recommend buying the Warne Base to help mount your rings.

It makes it easier to mount than a Weaver or Picatinny rail, and since it’s Warne they were made for each other.

These rings aren’t hard to mount if you follow the included instructions.

Once they’re installed, you can set them and forget them.

Seriously. You’ll never need to adjust these rings ever again.

This is one of the best AR scope mounts you could ask for because of how user friendly it is.

The main difference between these rings and others is that they’re split vertically instead of horizontally.

Once you’ve wrapped your head around that, there’s nothing to the install.

Here’s a youtube video by Warne showing you the install process.

Who’s the Warne 1” Matte PA Rings For?

These rings are perfect for anyone who wants to mount their scope once and never wants to worry about it again.

It’s possible to take it off and move it to another rifle, but you’re better off just buying multiple sets of rings.

If you’re looking for a set of rings that’s gonna hold up to a high recoil rifle and perfectly distribute the weight, then these are for you.

Combined with the Warne base, these are perfect for any type of firearm.

They also work with most scopes, including these 1-8x scopes.

To review:

• Inexpensive
• High quality
• Super durable
• Made in the USA
• Hold perfect zero
• Set it and forget it design
• Stainless steel recoil control
• Perfect for guns with heavy recoil

They’re also covered by Warne’s lifetime warranty, and by lifetime they mean as long as someone has the product.

No matter how it breaks or when Warne will repair or replace it for free.

That’s a company that stands by their product, so you know they’ve gotta be good.

Check out the Warne 1” Matte PA Rings for yourself.

6. Warne Quick Detach: Best Quick Release Mount

If you’re after a mounting system that will let you run different scopes on the same gun, look no further than the Warne Quick Detach (QD) Ring set.

With a set of Warne QD Rngs on each scope, you can swap out optics in 10 seconds. Just throw the lever and pop your variable distance scope off. Slip your red dot in place and use the lever to lock it down tight. These rings will keep zero when you reattach your optic-no need to sight in your scope again.

Do you want to swap out a variable powered scope for a thermal scope or for a night vision scope? With this affordable set of rings, you can easily put them on all of your optics.

Durability

The Warne QD Rings are heavy-duty, American made rings are crafted out of stainless steel. Their electrostatic powder coating is pretty tough. These rings can take a beating.

I have them on my Weatherby 300 win mag. Despite my gun’s heavy recoil, they hold solid. I don’t have to tighten them.

I don’t treat my firearm or optics lightly. They get knocked, smacked, dragged through the dirt and submerged. I think my Leupold VX-5HD 3-15×44 might give out before these rings do.

Eye Relief

Warne QD Rings are designed to go on a weaver style mount. The adjustability for eye relief is limited to the length of my weaver rail.

These rings aren’t designed to forward mount a scope. Using these, expect to mount your scope within standard eye relief distances. Your eyepiece should be about 3 to 4 inches from your eye-depending on your scope’s specs.

Installation

Installing the Warn QD Ring set to my optics was super easy. They come with an allen key, all I needed was a torque wrench

and a gun vice.

Here’s what you’ll need to do:

• Remove the screws from each ring. Notice that they aren’t the same length-you’ll want to make sure you put them back in the right spots.
• Put your scope inside the two halves and add the recoil key. Heads up: Ruger and CZ rings will not have a specific recoil key.
• Start all 4 screws, but only tighten the bottom ones to 25 in/lbs using your torque wrench.
• Attach your rings to the base and make sure the recoil keys are set into the slots and press each ring towards the muzzle to lock the recoil keys in.
• Then tighten the throw lever tight with your thumb and forefinger-there’s no need to over do it.
• Next you can adjust your eye relief and reticle.
• After you have your eye relief and reticle as you’d like tighten the top screws to 25in/lbs with your torque wrench.
• Once all of the screws are set, you can pull out your quick release lever and face it-or index it-the direction you’d like.

Once I had my optic on securely and zeroed, I can remove and replace my optic to my heart’s delight without having to sight it in again.

Who’s the Warne QD Ring Set for?

These rings are for anyone who wants to exchange multiple optics on the same rifle. The Warne QD Rings are very easy to remove and reattach. Just throw the lever, remove your scope, slip in the next one and lock it down.

The Warne QD Ring set:

• Holds Zero
• American made
• Easy installation
• Durably crafted from stainless steel

If you are looking for a great rimfire scope to use with these rings check out this list.

7. Burris XTR Rings: Best for Picatinny Rail

Burris is known for designing some of the most robust and reliable riflescope rings on the market.

I bought the XTR signature rings because I needed additional vertical adjustment for shooting at extended ranges. I considered buying a 20 MOA Picatinny rail, but they were expensive and difficult to find for custom actions.

Let me tell you this: the Burris XTR Rings solved my problem.

By the end of this review, you’ll know if these XTR signature rings are for you.

Let’s get started!

Durability and Fit

The Burris XTR Rings are lightweight yet rugged.

Although they’re not made of steel, the rings are precision-machined from aircraft-grade aluminum and come in an elegant finish.

The shims are designed to offset your scope’s minor misalignment or build a custom MOA base for long-range applications. You won’t need to buy additional bases to adjust MOA.

By choosing the right combo of inserts, you can easily adjust for unusual ring/mount/barrel alignments.

The inserts can also be aligned to provide additional elevation or windage if necessary.

Plus:

The XTR rings allow perfect alignment of the scope without adding stress on the tube, thanks to its nylon inserts.

The well-constructed rings hold the scopes securely without leaving a mark on them.

Nothing is more disheartening than to have your expensive scope marred up by scope rings.

The XTR Signature Rings come in stated heights of 1.0″ (medium), 1.25″ (high), and 1.5″ (extra high) for 1″ and 30mm diameters, and only 1″ and 1.5″ in 34mm.

Remember, proper ring height is key to a perfect cheek weld for the most comfortable fit and accurate shooting.

Installation and Eye Relief

The installation is very straightforward.

The Burris XTR Rings come in a waterproof storage container with a set of instructions.

It includes all the tools and parts needed to make 0-40 MOA of cant in the scope mount.

Each ring set includes:

• One set of the +/- 0 MOA concentric.
• One set each of the +/-5 MOA and +/-10 MOA.
• Two sets of the +/-20 MOA.

Take note!

These rings don’t come with two sets of 0 inserts, so if you don’t want to change your MOA angle, you need to carefully install the two sets of +/- 20 MOA to achieve 0 MOA.

I also found that the six screws on the ring clamps make it easier to tighten without changing the scope level compared to the four screws set up on the regular signature zee rings.

I used a laser bore sight to get them dialed in. I was just 2 inches off zero at 200 yards.

I mounted a Burris XTR II 8-40×50 FFP scope to a 6.5 Creedmoor with these rings. I shot about 100 rounds through the rifle and found no issues holding zero.

Final Verdict

I’ve been a Burris fan for over five years and have several sets installed on my rifles.

What can I say?

The Burris XTR rings are one of the best AR scope mounts I own.

Here’s why:

• Holds zero
• Easy to install
• Good price point
• High-quality construction

Regardless if used for hunting, tactical, or target shooting, the Burris XTR Rings are an excellent choice.

If you’re on the hunt for the best handgun scopes, I’ve got the perfect list for you!

8. Seekins Precision: Best Scope Rings for Long Range Shooting

Seekins Precision scope rings are an ideal mount for long range shooters.

With a solid mount that you can count on, making those precision shots becomes a whole lot easier.

Seekins Precision provides that support and gives you the opportunity to concentrate on your shooting.

Want to hear more? Keep reading…

Durability

These scope rings were built like a tank.

They are made from 7075-T6 aluminum and precision machined for a high quality, sturdy feel.

Seekins Precision are a tad on the bulky side, but they don’t get in the way and they’re incredibly durable. The solid build allows them to handle the recoil from any caliber, including the heavy hitting 45-70, which I use for big game hunting.

Plus, you won’t have to do any lapping, like I usually do with cheaper rings.

They are also specifically made for the picatinny rail, so they’re one of the best AR scope mounts.

Installation

Since these were made for the picatinny rail, installing them on one is a breeze.

If you’re using the Seekins rail, the cross bolt fits right in the channel and there’s no movement at all. I’ve noticed movement there in other rings, which is why I love the Seekins precision so much.

While they do come with a T25 key, I had to use a T25 torx screwdriver to get it on the way I wanted. But once set up, it was perfect.

And my scope slipped right in and fit nice and tight in the rings. I’ve even tried these rings on a SKS rail and they worked perfectly.

Eye Relief

The Seekins Precision scope rings come in multiple heights to give you the clearance you need for your weapon.

Because they secure to a picatinny rail, you can position them to give you the best eye relief.

The firm, solid fit keeps your scope in place, so you never lose your zero.

At this point, I’ve shot over 200 rounds using these and haven’t had to readjust a thing.

Who’s the Seekins Precision Scope Rings for?

Seekins Precision scope rings are perfect for long range shooters that need to know they have a solid mount.

They are:

• Easy to install
• Strong and sturdy
• High quality aluminum
• Solid, with no movement

If you’re looking for the best quality scope rings on the market, try the Seekins Precision scope rings. You won’t be sorry.

How to Properly Mount a Rifle Scope

There are a lot of how-to’s out there on this subject, and some are better than others.

I realize that not everyone has a machine shop, and some of these steps are a bit of overkill for a rimfire plinker that won’t be used for competition or even to take game.

With that in mind, I’ll go through each step of the process for a professional scope job, but take it with a grain of salt. Depending on your gun, mounting, and scope, not all of these steps will be necessary.

If you are interested in a professional mounting kit, this video might interest you, and it’s a great how-to resource as well:

How to Attach the Scope Mount

The first step is to get your rail on the weapon. Obviously, if you are using an existing dovetail that is cut into your receiver, you can skip ahead.

Most rifles have some tiny screws in the top of the receiver that can be removed with a small flathead or phillips screwdriver. The threaded holes left behind are what the mount will attach to.

If there are no holes, then you may have to drill and tap the receiver, or some other machining may be necessary. A trip to the gunsmith is usually in order, as those who have a machining skillset and the right tools will know what to do. But here is a little more information:

Usually, the mount is placed on the receiver and the screw hole centers are marked with a punch. Holes are drilled in the receiver, and then a tap is used to thread them to the proper size and pitch.

Once you have the mounting holes located or drilled, it’s a simple matter of placing the mounting rail over the exposed holes, and then attaching it with the included screws, which are typically torx screws. 30 inch pounds is the usual torque recommendation.

To make life easy, ensure that your rail is made for your weapon platform, and you should have very few issues. Manufacturers make rails machined perfectly for just about any rifle out there.

How to Attach the Lower Half of the Scope Rings

I like to make sure everything is going to fit well before I start screwing it all together. I start by separating the rings and only attach the half with the lug on it to my rails. Just snug them up finger-tight for now.

Then I lay the scope across the open platform. If I have the wrong size rings, then it won’t fit right. Consider that check number one. The rings should hug the scope, but it should drop in easily. Check that the spacing between the rings is not interfering with the scope.

While you are at it, you may also want to check the eye relief to ensure that you are happy with the scope location, and also that the primary optic isn’t touching the barrel. There should be a little air gap between the two.

Optional: On Picatinny rails in particular, you can try to adjust the spacing where the front ring rests comfortably against the body of the scope (the bulge in the middle where the elevation and windage knobs are). Having that change in diameter butted up against the front ring will eliminate any possibility of the scope creeping forward later on.

Once you are happy with the placement, snug up the lower rings to the recommended torque from the ring manufacturer.

Lapping the Scope Rings

If you have a lapping rod, this is an additional step that will ensure that the scope is held snugly by the rings with minimal chance of the tube distorting over time.

First, lapping compound is applied to the insides of the rings. Mark both of the rings with a pencil or grease pen on top, so you will know which is the front and the back, and which side faces the muzzle. Once you start, you want to stay with the exact same configuration.

The lapping rod is secured into the rings just like a scope would be, but the rings are only tightened enough to hold it in place. It should still be able to slide freely.

Work the rod forward and back a couple dozen times, and then check the rings by taking everything back apart and examining the wear patterns.

Repeat this process until you’ve removed at least 75% of the surface finish.

How to Swab the Rings

You want to remove any residual oils or foreign matter.

I prefer rubbing alcohol and a rag, but there are several options out there.

Clean the rings thoroughly to remove grit, grime, lapping compound, oils, cosmoline, or anything else that will wipe off. A spray cleaner of some kind with a little straw attached to the head can be used to get inside the screw holes as well.

Clean everything, and then dry everything. To be extra safe, go over the whole setup with a can of compressed air when you are finished to dry out any leftover solvent.

How to Check the Level

Lay the scope onto the bottom rings, then cover with the top rings and start threading in the screws until the scope is held securely, but it can still twist and move if you turn it. Not tight enough to scratch the paint, but not so loose that it will move on its own.

Check that the gaps on either side of the rings are the same as well.

Once all of the screws are finger tight, secure the rifle in a vice and place a level bubble on any flat along the top of the receiver or barrel.

Both the rifle and the turret top should be perfectly level. This ensures that both will match, and that will give you a leveled finish.

Now start tightening the screws. Just a little snug at first, and if there are more than two per ring you will want to criss cross when tightening. A simple star pattern, such as forward-left, rear-right, rear-left, forward-right. Kinda like tightening lug nuts on a car wheel.

Once everything is nice and snug, apply the final tightening with a torque driver using the same pattern.

How to Sight In Your Rifle

With a new scope, it’s good to ensure that the scope is as close as it can be before actually putting a shot down range. There are generally two ways to do this.

At the range, set a short target at twenty or thirty yards and zero there first. When you are hitting the paper close to center, you can reach out to 100 yards and re-zero.

If you know the intermediate point of impact for your rifle caliber, you can set your short target at that range, and it should be pretty dang close when you reach out to a longer range.

A bore sight tool is another option. This is a little laser that chambers just like a bullet, and will put a dot on the target for you to align to.

But be aware:

You will still need to shoot some groups to get everything dialed in, but it should get you on the paper at 100 yards.

Now It’s Your Turn

I hope you enjoyed my best scope ringsguide.

Now I want to turn it over to you:

Which scope ring will you pick for your firearm?

Let me know by leaving a quick comment down below.

Fred Bear is the father of modern bow hunting. Born in Waynesboro, Pennsylvania, Bear didn’t even hunt until late into his 20’s. But his passion for the outdoors, conservation, and hunting grew quickly.

In 1933 Bear found himself unemployed during the Depression. He and a friend saved a small amount of money (huge for that time) and created Bear Archery that year.

Bear struggled for many years. But as more states allowed bowhunting and its popularity grew, Bear was at the forefront of the race. Bear spent his entire life dedicated to improving the hunting experience. Archery hunting today is still marked with Bear’s wisdom. Here is a small part of his legacy and why he is still relevant to bowhunting today.

Knowledge

“You can learn more about hunting deer with a bow and arrow in a week than a gun hunter will learn in his entire life.”

Bear hunted everything with a bow, from small game to Kodiak brown bears. He knew those animals well. One could argue that there are skilled rifle hunters that have animal smarts. But it’s a hard sell to say that a rifle brings you as close to learning all the quirks, body language, and sign of any animal the way bowhunting does. Archery, in its nature, forces a hunter to study the habits of animals and improve the skills needed to get closer to them.

A rifleman may know of a scrape or deer trails along travel routes. But a bowhunter needs to know precisely what will occur in those spots. He needs to be concerned with the smallest details of his entry and exit access. There is less room for error with wind and thermal currents. The close shooting range needed to make an ethical shot is only a fraction of what most gun hunters need.

When a bowhunter finds a place to hunt, he has to imagine the deer standing right where he is. He has to know why a deer wants to be in that spot. A hunt that fails to be a student of the woods is hunting almost purely on luck.

Investment

“If you consider an unsuccessful hunt to be a waste of time, then the true meaning of the chase eludes you.”

Remember when you were a brand new hunter? Your whole pre-hunt was spent hoping to come home with something you shot. But think back to the first time you saw a deer in the woods. Most of us weren’t even close to that animal.

My dad and uncle always said, “Well, we didn’t get anything, but we sure had fun!” After I saw my first deer when hunting, I finally understood that statement. My knees and hands shook so hard that there would have been no way I would have been able to draw my bow even if that deer had been close enough.

Bringing meat home to the table is an awesome bonus. But the fun is built into the hunt itself! Start thinking this way, and every one of your hunts will be a good one.

Self-Improvement

“Immerse yourself in the outdoor experience. It will cleanse your soul and make you a better person.”

Today, managing stress and self-care is a popular topic. Therapists, medicine, classes, special exercises, the list goes on. There are more and more medical diagnoses emerging. Suicide rates increase every day. Face it; the real truth is that people are hurting.

I’m not claiming that being outdoors and hunting is the way to fix it all. In fact, many of those options I listed are needed methods of help. But plenty of research proves that unplugging from the world and being outside in nature significantly decreases stress. With a targeted goal in mind and the surroundings of a hunter, hunting is one of the best stress relievers, and it can’t be bought.

Expertise

“The flight of the arrow is as true as the skill and the nerve of the man with the bow.”

Nothing in the world will test your nerves more than a giant whitetail buck. They can make the biggest baddest dude shake like a leaf when up close and personal.

Having a goal of shooting a big buck seems simple. But it’s far more complex than you’d imagine. It’s a good idea to aim for the clouds before you aim for the stars. If you haven’t killed any deer with your bow, start with whatever you get. If that’s a doe or any legal buck, so be it. Your skill will improve, and you’ll be better because of it. As a result, more success will be at the end of the blood trails you follow.

Passing Thoughts

Of all the things hunters do, the one thing they don’t often do is think about why they love to hunt. I’m sure most could rattle off a superficial list of good reasons, but they’d likely miss the big picture.

There isn’t anything quite like bowhunting, and Fred Bear said it best.

” When a hunter is in a tree stand with high moral values and with the proper hunting ethics and richer to the experience, that hunter is 20 feet closer to God.”

Author: Aaron Hepler

For a very long time, people were unaware of how other birds (especially pigeons and doves) saw the world around them.

Recent investigations in the field of science have, thankfully, shed light on the astonishingly varied visual capabilities of these bird species. So, let us discuss Dove’s vision. Are they color blind?

Doves are not colorblind in any sense. They can see and differentiate colors easily. Doves’ eyes, in contrast to human eyes, find it easier to concentrate on stationary things than they do on moving ones.

Like most other types of prey animals, dogs have a single eye on each side of their heads, giving them a monocular field of vision.

They have a field of vision that is 340 degrees wide, much wider/advanced than humans and many other birds.

But there’s more to learn about how doves see the world around them.

In this article, we’ll explore the topic of Dove’s vision in more detail, including:

How doves see color and the difference between human and dove eyesight.

Let’s get started.

Do doves have good eyesight?

Doves have excellent vision and can see well in bright and dark light. They’re also able to see movement from a long distance away, making them superb hunters. In fact, doves are so good at spotting prey that they can often take down small birds with just a few quick pecks.

Doves have better vision than humans

Doves have a vision that is far superior to that of humans. Because of their eyes’ incredible sensitivity, they can discern UV colors that are entirely invisible to human sight.

These birds have the ability to recognize color, and when they spot brightly colored clothing that stands out from its surroundings, they will become alarmed. So, their hunt is a little bit tricky too.

Lack Depth Perception

Doves are distinguished by the constant bobbing of their heads, which is one of their features.

The action has been interpreted as a means of maintaining balance due to the position of their legs in relation to the rest of their bodies; nevertheless, there is another component at play here.

They have to continually refocus their eyesight to see objects clearly, particularly while they are moving around on the ground.

Their downward vision is highly developed and ground-focused, just as one would anticipate from any species belonging to the bird kingdom.

Eyes Anatomy/Shape

In comparison to the size of their bodies, the eyes of doves are significantly bigger than those of other birds.

The form of their eyes is likewise distinct from one another. The lenses have a significantly flatter profile.

The visual acuity of a dove is significantly superior to that of raptors because they have binocular vision, while doves have monocular vision.

In point of fact, doves have eyesight that is two times as excellent as that of humans when seen via their monocular lateral field of view.

Doves Are Constantly On the Lookout

Have you ever attempted to sneak up on a dove and get a closer look? It is incredibly challenging, and it may even be impossible.

As wild birds, they are experts at surviving in their environment and are highly attuned to their surroundings. When they are stumbling about on the ground, it may seem as though they are in a whole different universe; nevertheless, this is not the case.

Doves are always vigilant, and despite having to refocus their vision constantly, they have excellent eyesight, which helps them avoid potential threats.

When humans approach, they may appear to be unaware of your presence in regions that people often visit; nevertheless, you should not accept this impression since they are always aware of your position.

What colors entice doves to visit your garden?

Natural camouflage colors such as grey, brown, and olive are suitable possibilities for attracting birds with more cautious temperaments, such as doves, waterfowl, and other similar species. These birds are more likely to be scared off by brighter colors.

Note: White should be avoided at all costs since doves are more likely to be attracted to other exceptionally bright colors. It would appear that doves interpret this color as a warning.

Dove eye colors

Eye Color of doves varies from light brown to gray when they are young. But their eye colors change from dark brown to gray-brown or black as the species develops and becomes an adult.

The shade of their eyes also alters depending on the time of day and light availability.

During the nighttime, their pupil becomes more dilated to let in more light, just like the humans. On the other hand, in low light conditions, their pupil contracts to a small black dot.

When doves are alarmed or feel threatened, their eyes will also become more prominent.

The reason behind this is that their eyes need to be more focused when they are on high alert.

Doves also have a third eyelid, which is a translucent membrane that covers the eye when they blink.

In fact, this third eyelid helps to protect the eye and keep it moist.

Why are colors essential for doves?

Doves rely on color for a variety of reasons, including attracting potential mates and identifying food and water sources.

For the aim of breeding

The beginning of the mating season is signaled by the appearance of plumage with brighter colors. A mature and healthy mate can also be deduced from a partner’s use of brighter colors.

Cues from food as well as the surroundings

Seeds/fruits with bright colors are often ready to eat and have the highest concentration of nutrients when they are at their peak.

Seeds/fruits with bright colors are often ready to eat and have the highest concentration of nutrients when they are at their peak.

The changing of the colors of the leave also indicates doves migrate in the cold weather.

Can doves see colors?

Doves can see color, but their color vision is not as good as that of other birds, such as hawks.

The eyes are also used to detect movement and light. The retina contains rods and cones which respond to different wavelengths of light.

These cells have a high sensitivity for detecting motion, while the rods are more sensitive to low-intensity light than the cones. Birds’ eyes are also capable of seeing polarized light, which allows them to distinguish between objects with similar colors.

This ability comes from the fact that the eye contains an internal structure called the tapetum lucidum, which reflects light back through the lens.

How do doves see colors?

Dove’s eyes contain three types of photoreceptors: rods, cones, and double cones. Rods are responsible for night vision, while cones are responsible for day vision. Double cones are responsible for color vision.

Rods

Rods are located in the retina and help the bird see at night. Their function is to detect changes in brightness. When there is no change in brightness, the rod cell fires off an electrical impulse. If there is a sudden increase in brightness, then the rod cell stops firing.

Cones

Cones are located in the retina’s center and are responsible for daytime vision. They are made up of two parts: a short outer segment and a longer inner segment. The outer segment contains rhodopsin, which absorbs photons and triggers chemical reactions within the cone cell. Rhodopsin is activated by blue light, which makes it easier for the cone to absorb photons.

Dove eye and the human eye

In contrast to humans, who are trichromats and can only see three colors, blue, green, and red, doves are tetrachromats, meaning they can see four colors: ultraviolet (UV), blue, green, and red.

The ability to see UV light is what sets doves apart from other birds and animals, including humans.

In fact, this capability is thought to help doves find food and mates and avoid predators.

Do doves have peripheral vision?

Doves do not have peripheral vision. Doves have binocular vision, meaning they can see directly in front of them and to the side. This is because they have a band of nerve cells (the striated muscle layer) that runs across their eyes, allowing them to move their eyes quickly in any direction.

Binocular vision allows birds to judge distances accurately and helps them catch prey by spotting it from a distance. It also helps them keep track of other birds or predators when they are flying in formation.

What distinguishes a common dove from a mourning dove?

The distinction between these two species is primarily in their color. The blue-eyed ground dove’s body feathering varies from milky light brown to greyish buff, and it has a pinkish tinge to it. In contrast, the mourning dove has a coloration that is more brown and earthy and has black patches on its wings.

Distribution and habitat

Blue-eyed ground doves are found throughout much of North America, including Canada, Mexico, Central America, South America, and the Caribbean. They can be found in a variety of habitats, such as grasslands, prairies, savannas, deserts, forests, wetlands, and urban areas. Blue-eyed ground doves have been known to inhabit agricultural fields, parks, gardens, and even suburban backyards.

On the other hand, mourning doves live all over the world, except for Antarctica and Australia. They prefer open wooded areas, especially near water. They often nest in tree cavities or under bridges. Mourning doves are usually seen alone, although pairs will sometimes form if one member dies.

Can doves see at night?

Doves have excellent night vision, thanks to their rods. Rods are located in the retina and help the bird see at night. They detect changes in brightness, and when there is no change in brightness, the rod cell fires off an electrical impulse.

This allows doves to see in low light conditions and even in complete darkness. In addition, doves have a tapetum lucidum, which is a reflective layer of cells in the back of their eyes that reflects light and helps them see better in the dark.

What color are the dove’s eyes?

The color of a dove’s eyes can vary depending on the species. Common doves have dark brown eyes, while mourning doves have yellow-orange eyes.

Blue-eyed ground doves have blue eyes, which sets them apart from other species. The blue coloration is caused by a pigment called pteridine that reflects light and gives the eye its distinctive hue.

Do doves recognize faces?

Doves are one of the few species of birds that are capable of recognizing people’s faces, although they are a rare exception.

Doves are able to distinguish between individuals who provide them with food and those who intend to hurt them. This talent is essential for the birds to have in order to survive in the wild since it enables them to tell friends from foes.

People who provide doves with food regularly will notice that the birds are less likely to flee from them when they approach. The reason for this is that the birds have learned to recognize the human faces of the people who feed them over the course of time.

Do doves have the ability to see TV screens?

Doves are able to view the screens of televisions, computers, and other electronic devices.

The bird’s eyes are so sensitive to light that they can see the flickering of the images on the screen.

In fact, doves are not the only type of bird that can see electronic screens. Any bird with good eyesight will be able to see the images on a screen.

Summary

Before we move on to the conclusion, we’ve summarized this article into a short list of key points for you to remember:

• Doves have good vision, with some species being able to see in dim conditions due to special cells in their eyes called tapetum lucidum.
• Doves are one of the few species of birds that can recognize people’s faces.
• Doves can see the screens of televisions, computers, and other electronic devices.
• Grey doves have better vision than mourning doves.

Conclusion

In this article, we’ve learned about the anatomy of a dove and how its eyes work. We’ve also learned some interesting facts about the behavior of these birds.

We went over some interesting facts about doves. We also answered some common questions people have about these birds.

Doves are intelligent creatures that have the ability to recognize faces due to their extraordinarily sharp vision, enabling them to identify showy attire and activity from a considerable distance.

Additionally, we looked at the differences between the eyes of a grey dove and those of a mourning dove.

Finally, we discussed whether doves see color and why they might be colorblind.

Want to learn more about doves?

Ready to boost your knowledge to the next level? If so, check out the articles below:

• Do Doves and Pigeons Make Good Pets?
• What Do Turtle Doves Eat? Everything You Need To Know!
• Are Doves Aggressive?

Sources

• FOR THE BIRDS: Bird eyes differ from human eyes

Chief II Plus .22 PCP Air Rifle

A 12-Shot Magazine Makes For Quick Shooting

FPS: 830Caliber: .22Power Source: On Board High-Pressure Tank

The Chief II is a bargain for the build quality and shooting experience you get. I was a little surprised for how nice a gun you get for around the $200 mark. In the PCP world, you really need to spend north of $300 to really get some amazement, but the Chief II is a mighty fine airgun to shoot targets or small game. It doesn’t have a ton of five-star reviews on Amazon, but I think that is more a user error than a fault of the gun.

The .22 caliber of this PCP air rifle has often been a topic of admiration, striking a fine balance between power and grace, attributes that have frequently translated into humane and respectful hunts. During my expeditions, it has morphed into an extension of myself, helping me blend effortlessly with the serene surroundings, creating a harmonious symphony of man and nature engaged in a respectful duel.

One thing that really grabbed my attention while using the Chief II Plus was its straightforward knack for packing a punch in every shot, without causing a ruckus in the quiet surroundings. It gives me the elbow room to tweak my shooting preferences, especially when I’m having a go at target shooting with mates.

The adjustable trigger system comes in handy here, letting me switch from a light pull for quick shots to a heavier pull for those moments when I’m taking a careful aim. It’s like having a casual chat with an old friend, where the conversation just flows naturally, unfolding in the relaxed backdrop of the great outdoors.

Furthermore, its integrated scope mounting system has been a reliable ally, offering a stable platform that has often been the difference between a missed opportunity and a successful hunt. Its ergonomic design, coupled with a grip that seems to understand the contours of my hand, transforms long hours in the field into an experience of connection and enjoyment.

Why I Picked It:

The Chief II Plus .22 PCP found its way into my heart and my list for the sheer experience it promises. Its high-velocity shots, coupled with the adjustable trigger system, have often heightened my connection with the surroundings, allowing for a hunt that is as respectful as it is successful.

Its seamless integration into the natural setting, promising a harmonious and quiet operation, has often heightened the sense of connection I feel during my hunting expeditions. It stands as a testament to a hunting experience that is not just about the hunt, but the journey and the deep connection forged with nature.

Pros:

1. High-Velocity Performance: Delivers powerful shots, ensuring a successful and ethical hunt.
2. Adjustable Trigger System: Allows for a personalized shooting experience, enhancing the connection between the hunter and the rifle.
3. Integrated Scope Mounting System: Provides a stable platform for optics, promising precise shots that elevate the hunting experience.

Cons:

1. Weight: Its substantial build might be a bit taxing during extended hunting sessions, requiring periodic breaks to prevent fatigue.
2. Learning Curve: The nuances of the adjustable trigger system might require a bit of getting used to, especially for novices.