The following ammunition cartridge ballistics information and chart can be used to approximately compare .22 LR Long Rifle vs .22 Short ammo rounds. Please note, the following information reflects the estimated average ballistics for each caliber and does not pertain to a particular manufacturer, bullet weight, or jacketing type. As such, the following is for comparative information purposes only and should not be used to make precise predictions of the trajectory, performance, or true ballistics of any particular .22 LR Long Rifle or .22 Short rounds for hunting, target shooting, plinking, or any other usage. The decision for which round is better for a given application should be made with complete information, and this article simply serves as a comparative guide, not the final say. For more detailed ballistics information please refer to the exact round in question or contact the manufacturer for the pertinent information. True .22 LR Long Rifle and .22 Short ballistics information can vary widely from the displayed information, and it is important to understand that the particular characteristics of a given round can make a substantive difference in its true performance.

Caliber Type Velocity (fps) Energy (ft-lb) .22 LR Long Rifle Rimfire 1060 100 .22 Short Rimfire 900 50

Velocity

As illustrated in the chart, .22 LR Long Rifle rounds – on average – achieve a velocity of about 1060 feet per second (fps) while .22 Short rounds travel at a velocity of 900 fps. To put this into perspective, a Boeing 737 commercial airliner travels at a cruising speed of 600 mph, or 880 fps. That is to say, .22 LR Long Rifle bullets travel 1.2 times the speed of a 737 airplane at cruising speed, while .22 Short bullets travel 1 times that same speed.

Various calibers

Energy

Furthermore, the muzzle energy of a .22 LR Long Rifle round averages out to 100 ft-lb, while a .22 Short round averages out to about 50 ft-lb. One way to think about this is as such: a foot-pound is a unit of energy equal to the amount of energy required to raise a weight of one pound a distance of one foot. So a .22 LR Long Rifle round exits the barrel with kinetic energy equal to the energy required for linear vertical displacement of 100 pounds through a one foot distance, while a .22 Short round exiting the barrel has energy equal to the amount required to displace 50 pounds over the same one foot distance. As a rule of thumb, when it comes to hunting, muzzle energy is what many hunters look at when deciding on what caliber of firearm / ammunition to select. Generally speaking, the higher the muzzle energy, the higher the stopping power. Again, the above is for comparative information purposes only, and you should consult the exact ballistics for the particular .22 LR Long Rifle or .22 Short cartridge you’re looking at purchasing.

Please click the above links to take a look at all of the .22 LR Long Rifle and .22 Short ammo we have in stock and ready to ship, and let us know any parting thoughts in the comment section below.

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We offer cheap ammo and bulk ammo deals on the most popular ammo calibers. We have a variety of deals on Rifle Ammo, Handgun Ammo, Shotgun Ammo & Rimfire Ammo, as well as ammo for target practice, plinking, hunting, or shooting competitions. Our website lists special deals on 9mm Ammo, 10mm Ammo, 45-70 Ammo, 6.5 Creedmoor ammo, 300 Blackout Ammo, 10mm Ammo, 5.56 Ammo, Underwood Ammo, Buffalo Bore Ammo and more special deals on bulk ammo.

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Shooting squirrels is not as easy as it may seem sometimes. They’re a small target, move fast, and sometimes they just don’t come out of the tree.

If you hit a squirrel in the wrong area, it is highly likely to make it back to its nest, where it will curl up and die.

For most scenarios, the best place to shoot a squirrel is in the head.

Where to Shoot a Squirrel With a .22LR

The .22LR is the favored weapon for shooting squirrels across North America. Some people prefer scoped, and some prefer iron sights, but most people will agree that the .22LR is probably the best tool for killing squirrels.

The great thing about using the .22LR for squirrels is that it has just enough stopping power. A misplaced shot on a squirrel with anything bigger than a .22LR is likely to damage a large amount of meat.

Anything smaller than a .22LR, and it’s most likely you will only injure the squirrel if you misplace the shot. While a misplaced shot with a .22LR will still kill the squirrel with minimal damage to the meat. With that being said, you still want your shot to be on target, and with a .22LR, that target is the head.

The head is the best place to shoot a squirrel with a .22LR for three reasons.

• It’s the fastest kill
• It doesn’t damage the meat
• It doesn’t damage the pelt

Unlike hunting a deer where it is easier to aim for the vitals, this is not really practical with a squirrel. A squirrel’s vital area is much too small, and they move too often and too fast to aim for the vitals. A headshot usually signifies instant death for a squirrel, and it’s a good size target to aim for.

With this being said, a well-placed body shot with a .22LR will kill a squirrel, but if you are hunting for meat, why take the risk of damaging the meat and, more importantly, inuring the squirrel.

Where to Shoot a Squirrel With an Air Rifle

If using an air rifle for hunting squirrels, there is only one place to aim, and that is at the head. With a shotgun, a bow, or the .22LR or you can aim for a body shot.

The idea of a body shot really shouldn’t cross your mind with an air rifle. They usually don’t offer enough power to warrant a body shot on a squirrel.

There have been times when I’ve hit squirrels in the body with a .22LR or only to have to follow it up with another shot quickly.

Squirrels are tougher than they look and have a tough hide. Hitting a squirrel anywhere other than the head with an air rifle will most likely just injure them to a point where they will die a slow death in their nest.

Where to Shoot a Squirrel With a Shotgun

While there are a lot of fans for the .22LR when it comes to squirrel hunting, there are still quite a few people who will use nothing but a shotgun for squirrels.

The huge draw for using shotguns when out squirrel hunting is the ability to take a mixed bag.

Many people will claim that using a shotgun on squirrels will ruin the meat. However, most people who have used shotguns on squirrels contest otherwise.

Large squirrels like big fox squirrels have tough hides, and with a well-placed shot from a shotgun, only a few pellets will make it through to the meat. The force from being hit with a shotgun load is enough to knock a squirrel from a tree.

Shotguns serve great for squirrel hunting in the early season when there is still plenty of foliage on the tree, and it’s hard to get a headshot with a rifle this time of year.

When using a shotgun for squirrel hunting, a headshot is still the best shot you can take. This allows you to get a quick kill without putting too many pellets towards the body.

Where to Shoot a Squirrel With a Bow

Things begin to change when bow hunting for squirrels. No longer are you only limited to a well-placed headshot. While a headshot is still a perfectly fine shot with a bow, you are offered another option.

Choosing a body shot with a bow is perfectly fine as you’re not at risk of ruining too much meat, and there is little chance for the squirrel to escape.

If aiming for a head shot with a bow, it’s best to use judo points or blunts for a quick kill. If aiming for a body shot, it’s the same as a large game animal; you will want to aim just behind the shoulder.

This will put your arrow in contact with the squirrel’s vitals, with a small game head, it will quickly and humanely dispatch the squirrel.

Conclusion

When hunting squirrels, nine times out of ten, it’s best to aim for the head. This offers the cleanest kill and does not harm the meat or the pelt.

The only time you would not aim for the head is when using a bow which offers you the option of aiming for the body.

Product Description

The ICBM Weighted Long Distance Float – long casting bobber / float – waggler missile will help you reach far-away spots. Goes a long way on light line up to 80 yards and consistently longer than any you have every fished. Try one – Bombs Away.

If you need to launch a float long distance to cover water, the ICBM Weighted Long Distance Cast Bobber is your weapon. Deliver either artificial or live baits long distance with these weighted bobbers. The ICBM offers you the ability to make long-distance casts on spinning tackle to fish your extreme conditions. If you are fishing deep water over 20 ft., or you wish to cast 150 – 200 feet away, these floats will easily work for that distance. A very long-casting float. Long distances can be achieved with very easy casts.

** PRODUCT NOTE -2 Weight size variations are IN STOCK. The float differs in weights and will be either Medium Long (second-heaviest) or Long (heaviest) you may receive different colors when ordering this product. Float tips are all the same high-visibility orange.

These floats have been reinforced and sealed top and bottom with epoxy for added strength and built to last!

The ICBM Weighted Long Distance Float – Bobber can also be fished with 1/32 oz. jig and requires only 2 grams of split shot to balance the float which saves the angler money! The floats are weighted and require the addition of only a couple big split shot to sink the float down lower in the water.

If you are not used to casting this float, your first casts should be soft-medium so you can feel the power of this missile-style weighted waggler float. Slowly add a little more power on your next casts and see the distances you can achieve. The use of a longer rod and light line will create tools for you to reach far out into lakes and reservoirs and even fish 20 – 30 feet below the surface at long-distance.

This is a great float for fishing plastics or small minnows for crappie, perch, walleye, panfish and trout. This can also be fished with small artificial worms for bass as well as half a crawler, leeches (great), grubs, particle baits, red worm, wax worm or crickets – very versitile float. Carp anglers and catfish anglers will love these bobbers.

We suggest using a Quick Change Float Snap or the Pro Float Connector to fish these at their maximum. You can adjust sizes to match changing conditions and swap out a different weight and size of float if needed. If the wind dies down, you should always go with the lightest float possible. This float is great for high winds and in waves.

Use a longer rod like our 9 foot rod or 10 foot float series rod and a big reel loaded with light line (4 lb. or 3 lb.) line to max out your casts. As you use 6 lb. or heavier lines, the casts will go shorter, but still a long way out from your position. After the float lands in the water, you can quickly reel in with your rod tip below the water and sink the line. Sinking the line will keep your float in place even at a long distance away.

The float (bobber) comes pre-loaded with it’s own weight which means you won’t have to use as much split shot to sink your rig, saving you money and setup time. At longer distances, you can leave some split shot off to raise the float antenna upward- offering high visibility at long distance. The high-visibility yellow stem can be seen clear across the lake!

Can be fished on Firewire braided or mono filament lines and using many baits including baits up to medium-sized minnows. When casting the ICBM Weighted Long Distance Waggler, you start slow and pick up the pace during the cast. Make sure you aren’t wrapped around the tip- or you will snap you line on the cast. Take your time, enjoy bombing casts!

Limb lines are an extremely effective and simple method of catfishing. Typical limb lines for catfish setups involve nothing more than stout twine, a heavy sinker, a strong swivel, a sharp hook, and a tasty piece of bait. Instead of attaching this to a fishing pole, you tie it to a supple green limb overhanging the water and motor away to go do other things. In your absence, the limb fights the fish. Clever anglers may set a dozen or more of these lines, and let them “soak” for a couple of hours while they fish with a rod and reel nearby. If they’re lucky, they’ll soon be blessed with a “tree shaker,” a catfish so big it makes the whole tree sway as it struggles to return to deeper water!

Are Limb Lines Legal?

In most cases, yes! Most states allow limb lining in one form or another. In places where catfish are plentiful (throughout most of the southern and midwestern United States) regulations generally permit limb lines, trotlines, and other forms of setlining. Some states may have restrictions on the number of lines or hooks you can have out at once, and most require that the lines be tagged with the owner’s information. It’s important that you read up on your state’s regulations and clarify any questions with local authorities before you begin setting limb lines for catfish.

Limb Line Fishing

Some catfishermen look down upon limb lines, claiming that they don’t require any skill. It’s true that limb lines do set the hook and play the fish for you. But limb lines are to rod and reel fishing what trapping is to hunting. It’s a different way to accomplish the same goal, and you put in all of the hard work and planning on the front end of the project. There is definitely an art to setting limb lines.

For this article, we were lucky enough to be able to interview Art Preller. Art is a longtime limb line fisherman on the White River and the inventor of the Port Arthur Limb Line.

How Deep To Set Limb Lines For Catfish

While many fishermen conceptualize catfish as deep water bottom dwellers, Art knows different. “Catfish are edge dwellers,” he says. “They’ll run the bank edge at night, and you don’t need a whole lot of water to catch them in. I’ve got a three foot paddle on my boat, and if I see a limb that looks good I’ll go over and stick that paddle in the water. If it’s got three feet then I’ll go ahead and set a line. I don’t usually fish all the way on the bottom. I’ll drop the bait down to the bottom and then come up about six inches.”

Setting Catfish Lines – Where To Put Them

We asked Art if he had any advice on what stretches of the bank were good candidates for limb line fishing.

“It depends on what you’re fishing for,” Art replied. “If you’re fishing for flatheads, bluff banks are best. If you’re fishing for channel cats or blue cats, you can really catch them almost anywhere. I like to look for banks with a lot of overhanging brush on them. And the more structure you have around on the edge of the bank, the better.”

Catfish Bank Poles/Diddy Poles – An Option When You Don’t Have A Limb

Sometimes, there just isn’t a limb handy where you want to set a hook. Art keeps a few pvc poles in his boat that can be driven into eroded bluff banks. Referred to as “bank poles” “ditty poles” or “diddy poles,” these simple devices can make you a more versatile fisherman.

Diddy poles can be made from pvc, bamboo, cane, or green willow shoots. Anglers can also purchase premade diddy poles made from fiberglass. These poles are small enough in diameter that they can be set on sunken timber with the aid of the appropriately sized drill bit. If you’re looking to purchase some premade diddy poles, Catfish Getters offers them in several sizes and configurations.

Limb Lines On The River

When setting limb lines on the river, look for breaks in the current. If there’s a seam line in the current, catfish will lurk in the low-flow areas and wait to ambush food swept downstream. The mouth of creeks and sloughs off of the main channel can be productive areas.

Structure can also provide an easy place for catfish to rest and wait for prey. Old docks, fallen down trees, and sunken houseboats or derelict vessels on the bank can be productive places.

How To Set Limb Lines For Flatheads

Flathead catfish are highly regarded by serious catfishermen. “Flatheads are kinda like the crappie of the catfish family,” Art explains. “They have a very white, clean meat because they hunt live bait; they’re not scavengers like the other species.”

So how can a catfisherman target flatheads with his limb lines?

“You’ll definitely catch more flatheads with live bait,” he said. “Down here, we like to use goldfish or rice slicks.” (Editor’s note: “rice slicks” is a colloquial term for Green Sunfish (Lepomis cyanellus). “June is usually the most productive month because they’re spawning. Right now, if we set hooks with live bait, we’re running around a 25% hookup rate for flatheads.”

Best Bait For Limb Lines

What about other species? What’s the best bait for channel catfish and blue catfish?

“Nightcrawlers are always a good go-getter,” says Art. “You’ll mainly catch channel cats on them, but you can catch blues and even flatheads occasionally. You just have to be careful how you run your lines. If you’re using nightcrawlers, wait until sunset to bait your hooks. Otherwise bait-stealers like bream and gar will clean your hooks before catfish can find them.”

“As far as blues go, if you can catch a few skipjack or freshwater drum, you can cut those up and that’s a really good bait for blue cats,” Art explains. “We were out just last week and caught a 22lb blue on a piece of cut drum.”

Best Hooks For Limb Lines

Hook selection is a very important part of your limb line strategy. Catfish run the gamut from 2lb “eatin’-sized” channel cats all the way to trophy-class blue cats that can break the hundred pound mark. You’ll want to match your hook to your target fish’s size.

“I’m not really a trophy catfisherman,” says Art. “I’m just out to fill my freezer. My general rule is if a fish is too big for my filet knife, I’ll let him go. You need big fish in your water to replenish what you catch. So with that in mind, I consider a size two to size four j-hook to be about right for what I’m targeting.”

What about trophy catifsh?

“If you’re going for the big fish, those 50-80lb trophy fish, then you’ll want something bigger. I’d say a 7/0 circle hook would be about right for big fish. You’ll also want to get some bigger swivels. Big catfish are tough on your tackle.”

Best Knot For Limb Lines

For your connections to the swivel and hook, a good, no-slip knot with high break strength such as a Palomar knot is ideal. For your attachment to the limb, a good slip-knot will hold even the largest catfish, but come loose quickly and easily with a tug of the tag end when it’s time to gather your lines back up.

Best Time To Set Limb Lines

Limb lines are usually set at night during the spring and summer months. During this time, catfish feed more heavily at night as the water temperatures cool off. They’ll transition from deep, cool holes to the shallows along the shoreline in search of prey such as shad, bluegill, skipjack, crawfish, and insects.

Fishing at night also ensures that you are avoiding the “bait stealers” Art mentions. If you try to run lines during the day, you’ll have to fight with bream, gar, choupique, and even hungry turtles!

Limb Line String

Catfish are not line-shy. Heavy-duty, tarred trotline cord is strong and holds knots well, two features crucial in limb line string. Art’s premade limb lines come standard with tarred cord rated to 170lbs, plenty strong enough for even the biggest trophy catfish.

Limb Line Weights

When selecting weights for limb lines used in catfishing, it is essential to consider the size and behavior of the catfish species you are targeting. Generally, heavier weights are preferred to keep the line securely anchored to the limb or structure. The weight should be sufficient to counteract the fish’s strength and prevent it from easily breaking free. Depending on the water current and depth, weights ranging from 2 to 8 ounces or more may be suitable. It’s important to experiment and adjust the weight based on the specific fishing conditions to ensure the limb line remains stable and effective in attracting and catching catfish.

How To Make A Limb Line

Limb Line Setup

If you’d like to make your own limbline, start by gathering your materials. You’ll need heavy cord, strong swivels, sharp hooks, and some ½-4oz egg weights.

Start by cutting 2 lengths of cord; a 6-10ft main line and an approximately 2ft leader. Tie a heavy-duty swivel on one end of the main line using an improved clinch knot or palomar knot and thread an egg weight on. In heavy current, you’ll need a heavy sinker to keep your bait submerged. In slack water, use a lighter sinker.

Once the sinker is threaded, prevent it from coming off by tying a simple overhand knot on the opposite end of the line from the sinker. Then, tie a hook to your leader line. Straight-shank hooks can be attached with an improved clinch knot or similar. Circle hooks perform better when snelled. Be sure to use a hook size appropriate for the size fish you are after.

Once this is done, tie the hook and leader to the swivel on your main line. Add a tag in compliance with local regs to your main line, and your line is ready for the water!

Limb Line Rigs

It may not occur to most fishermen, but there is more than one way to rig a limb line. Most anglers will stick with the tried-and-tested Carolina and split shot rigs for limb lines. But there’s nothing stopping you from experimenting! Any live or cut bait rig that you would tie on the end of a rod-n-reel can be duplicated on a limb line. A dropshot rig is a good way to suspend bait off of the bottom, and you can experiment with multiple hooks by mimicking a high-low rig.

Catfish Limb Lines For Sale

While limb lines are simple to make, they do take up a lot of time. And if you don’t already have the hardware on-hand, it can be surprisingly expensive by the time you add up all of the materials plus time and gas to acquire them. Pre-made limb lines are an excellent option for fishermen who are short on time, or who just want to try a couple out on their next fishing trip.

Art Preller’s Port Arthur Limb Lines are an innovative take on limb lines. They incorporate a hi-vis, reflective flagging device that serves as a fish indicator, tag, and storage device. According to Art, “You can put fifty of them in a five gallon bucket and they’re all organized. And when you’re done fishing, they’re easy to pull off of the river so that you aren’t losing equipment or littering the environment.”

Limb Line Safety

Unfortunately, some fishermen give limb-lining a bad name and abandon their lines or leave them unattended for too long. This can be dangerous to wildlife and even people, especially when water levels fall and leave the hooks exposed. Animals and boaters can become hooked or entangled in an abandoned limb line, so always be sure to remove your lines when you are done with them!

Limb Line Lights

Some anglers go so far as to mark their limb lines to make them more visible. A chemical glow stick or inexpensive clip-on light can make it easier for you or unwary boaters to locate your lines in the dark. Reflective tape and hi-vis yellow, orange, or pink lines can also make it easier for you and others to see your lines.

Limb Line Tags

In most states, regulations call for tagging your limb lines. These tags generally require you to provide ID and contact information. In Alabama, for example, lines must be tagged with the owner’s name and either a phone number or fishing license number. This information helps conservation officers to identify the owners of abandoned lines.

Limb Line Storage

Perhaps the most difficult part of fishing with limb lines is keeping them organized! The more lines you run, the harder this becomes. A boat full of lines with sharp hooks and flopping catfish isn’t just frustrating, it can be downright dangerous!

Some anglers keep their lines wrapped around a section of foam pool noodle. Bury the hook point in the foam, wrap the line around the noodle, and tuck the tag end under the last wrap for a clean package that can be easily unwound when needed.

Another storage tactic is to wrap the lines around your fingers in a figure-8 pattern and secure it with a small alligator clip. The wrapped line can then be set into a compartment in a flat, stowaway-style tackle box.

Final Thoughts On Limb Lines For Catfish

In conclusion, limb lines are a highly effective and popular method for catching catfish. This traditional fishing technique combines simplicity and efficiency, making it accessible to anglers of all skill levels. By utilizing strong lines, appropriate bait, and strategic placement, limb lines offer a reliable means of catching plenty of catfish. However, it is crucial for anglers to prioritize responsible fishing practices, ensuring the safety and well-being of both the targeted species and the surrounding ecosystem. By adhering to local regulations and employing responsible fishing methods, anglers can continue to enjoy the thrill of limb lining while preserving natural resources and being considerate of other outdoorsmen.

Full Disclosure: This post may include affiliate links. There’s no extra charge to our readers for using these.

I don’t know how much you paid for your antique duck decoy, but you’re about to be frazzled by how much people have paid for them in the past.

These aren’t out-of-the-packaging duck decoys (and some are not even decoy ducks), but they all have one thing in common: they cost a ton of money.

Over the last few decades, we’ve seen some of the most expensive duck decoys ever sold, and the details are quite interesting.

Vintage duck decoys can be ridiculously expensive. Does this make them more usable or viable than inexpensive, brand-new models?

Not necessarily, but you have to understand that black duck hunting is a pastime. It’s a rite of passage for a lot of young men.

You incorporate it into your life, and other eccentric duck hunters with deep pockets will stop at nothing to claim some of the most coveted factory-made decoys in history.

If you’d like to see a graphical breakdown of expensive wooden decoys, we got you covered:

1. The Crowell Bundle

I’m calling it this because two decoys were sold together for a whopping $1,130,000.

On record, this is the most expensive decoy purchase to date, but it comes with some interesting and unique details.

If you didn’t know, A. Elmer Crowell was a Massachusetts native, who had an eye for carving.

Some people pick up carving vintage or whittling as a hobby, but this man did it so excessively that his work is still revered over a century later.

He began carving vintage and selling his decoys in 1912, up until his passing in 1952, and as we all know, dead artists can make a ton of money.

And that’s what it was: art. Crowell put so much detail into these decoys, that they were picked up by the Fine Arts of Boston (though the timeline is unclear).

They held onto these until their value escalated. In 2007, his pintail drake and Canada goose decoys sold as a bundle.

We know the amount, and the date, but the buyer went completely undisclosed.

The reason these were so expensive is that they were some of Crowell’s first documented decoys.

They were carved sometime around 1915-1917, shortly after he began carving and have held their aesthetics and shape for over a century.

It’s believed that this is because America’s history continues to go on and on. Even though we’re a relatively young country, our rich heritage becomes valuable at an accelerated rate.

It’s like having a piece of history, from your favorite thing, sitting right on a shelf somewhere.

We’re giving Crowell his dues here, and while he isn’t included further down the list since we’ve already mentioned him, it’s important to state that this 1.13 million dollar purchase for two decoys was actually part of a large sale of 31 Crowell decoys, which in total ended up costing about $7,500,000.

2. Red-Breasted Merganser Hen Carving, by Lothrop Holmes

Crowell has been the only one to fetch over a million for a decoy purchase, but that was a pair even then.

An inseparable pair, but more than just a single decoy.

The individual most expensive decoy actually belongs to Lothrop Holmes, but since it was still purchased for a lower denomination, it comes in at number two.

This wooden hen sold for an insane $856,000 and held a record as the most expensive decoy sale for quite some time.

Much like Crowell, Lothrop Holmes actually came from Massachusetts as well, where duck hunting was a common sport.

Lothrop didn’t start out with decoys; it was more of a side hobby that later turned into a career.

Holmes spent his time as a ship’s carpenter for years, which allowed him to grow his proficiency in woodworking.

I’m not mentioning the same creators over and over again, so for the sake of transparency, it’s also important to note that Lothrop’s Ruddy Turnstone sold for $470,000 back in 2000.

3. The Eider Drake Decoy On Monhegan Island

We’re still in New England guys, but this time we’re in Maine.

There’s a ton of mystery shrouding The Eider Drake because even to this day, I can’t credit the original manufacturer.

Truth is, nobody has a definitive answer on that, and we likely never will.

It’s a fetching decoy, but nothing like Crowell or Holmes could make, yet it still sold for a hefty price tag of $767,000 back in 2014. You may recognize it as being the center of the James McCleery collection until it was eventually sold.

Recent research points to a man by the name of Eben Weed being the original creator of this decoy, but some of the evidence is inconclusive.

4. Unattributed Slot Neck Canada Goose Decoy

Because most duck decoys of merit were made in the 1830s to the 1880s, documentation (especially for a hobby) was largely unavailable.

Much like The Eider Drake, this remains unattributed but without potential leads as well, really leaving us all in the dark.

This brought in $553,600 back in 2007 when it was sold by Guyette, Schmidt, and Deeter.

It’s fetching, and for its time, it shows a great level of attention to detail with the colors and shades.

5. The Wilson Merganser Drake Duck Decoy

Gus Wilson may not be the first name that comes to mind when you think of famous decoy designers, but he’s one of the most recent record-holders for duck decoy sales.

This decoy was purchased in 2017, whereas most of the others on this list were bought about a decade ago or longer.

Wilson’s decoy pulled in $330,000, partially because he didn’t make a lot of decoys.

Of the ones that he did make that we’re aware of, their beaks weren’t the best.

Many of them snapped off and were replaced, but this one hit such a high price point because the original beak is still completely intact.

6. The Lincoln Hisser

When it comes to expensive duck decoys, Joe Lincoln is a name that often comes up. He made one of the most realistic goose decoys out there, showing a Canada goose in mid-motion that really makes it look like they’re scurrying along the water while the decoy bobs.

It was the highest ticket item at an $800,000 auction, bringing in $299,000 individually, which greatly surpassed the average for the dozens of other items in the auction.

Joe Lincoln painted decoys well into his 70s and remains an underdog in the decoy world.

7. Graves Mallards

It’s nothing compared to some of these world-famous decoys, but the Graves Mallards brought in $218,500 at another G&S auction.

It was one of the largest amounts of money they made at their 2006 auction.

Bert Graves was a more recent carver than Crowell or Holmes because he made his last decoy in 1956.

For once, we’re not in New England with this origin story, either; Bert is actually from Peoria, IL, and has set the scene for high-quality duck decoys ever since.

8. The Blair Mallard

John Blair was another small-timer in the decoy world, but his ability to carve a fantastic mallard earned him a top spot in the record books.

This simple mallard has an excellent definition, which is part of the reason that it fetched $214,000 and is considered one of the most valuable decoys.

Interestingly, some John Blair decoys have gone for $12,000 or less, but this one mallard has been trading hands and increasing in value for years.

John Blair was a PA native and spent most of his time outdoors when he wasn’t carving duck decoys.

9. Thomas Chambers Simple Wood Duck

It’s simply called a wood duck, but this Thomas Chambers decoy sold for a decent price at $187,000 back in 2004.

Chambers is the only one on this list who wasn’t American-born. Instead, he hailed from Ontario, Canada.

Like many others on this list, he lived until the 1940s but didn’t enjoy much of his work being sold.

To date, he’s reined in close to seven figures from beyond the grave in duck decoy auction sales.

10. Cobb Brant Mallard

Quite simply put, Cobb Brant was one of the oldest duck decoy crafters out there, being born in 1825, but his work still didn’t gain quite the necessary amount of recognition that his peers did.

Still, he brought in $168,000 almost a century later for this single duck decoy.

There’s not a ton of information available on Brant. Though much of his earlier years aren’t recorded, he lived a simple life.

11. Bernie Madoff’s Decoy

The guy we all know and hate. Bernie Madoff might just go down as this century’s biggest American villain, but his decoy fetched a rather handsome amount of money during the auctioning of his estate.

While it’s nothing compared to Crowell, Madoff’s decoy sold $4,750 at auction.

However, as these terms are often interchangeable, it’s important to note that this decoy was actually a structure, not just a carving or decoy duck.

“Exploring the World of Air Rifles: Unveiling the Projectiles These Mighty Firearms Shoot!”

what do air rifles shoot

Air rifles are firearms that use compressed air or gas to propel projectiles. These rifles can shoot a variety of ammunition types, including pellets, BBs, and darts. The type of ammunition used depends on the specific design and purpose of the air rifle.

Pellets are the most common type of ammunition for air rifles. They are small cylindrical or round projectiles made of lead or alloy. Pellets come in different calibers, ranging from.177 to.50 caliber, and they can be either diabolo-shaped (with a larger head and narrow waist) or round-nosed. Pellets offer accuracy and consistency in shooting and are suitable for various applications such as target shooting, pest control, and small game hunting.

BBs are another type of ammunition used in air rifles. They are small spherical projectiles typically made of steel or copper-plated steel. BBs are mainly used for recreational purposes like plinking (shooting at targets for fun) and casual target practice. Compared to pellets, BBs generally have lower accuracy due to their shape but can still be effective within shorter ranges.

In conclusion, air rifles shoot projectiles called pellets or BBs. These small metal or plastic objects are propelled by compressed air, making air rifles a popular choice for recreational shooting and pest control. With various types and sizes available, it’s important to use the appropriate ammunition for safety and effectiveness.

Choosing the best HF Ham Radio for off-grid or grid-down survival communications is challenging. In this blog, we go through key features every HF survival radio should have. We also take a look at 5 of the best low-power, and energy efficient QRP portable ham radios, for off-grid and grid-down preparedness communications.

If you have not already seen my video entitled Grid Down Comms, I would highly recommend it. If you have seen it, consider sharing it to those just getting started in ham radio for preparedness.

Hello Operators. After the devastating earthquake and mobile phone grid failure in Turkey and Syria, an Operator reached out on Twitter, asking about the best HF radio for grid down or off grid survival. In this video and associated blog post, I do my best to highlight the pros and cons of my top HF radio picks, seen on the channel.

Why an HF Survival Strategy?

The preparedness community has been fixated on a single type of survival communications (tactical comms). We can call it tactical comms, fire team comms, squad level communications, … This type of communications is usually done over VHF or UHF on FM or encrypted digital voice, using various types of handheld portable radios.That type of communication is great once your group is all in sync. That is to say, tactical communications with short-range handheld radios only functions, once your crew has rallied. Without that initial mobilization, there is no way to coordinate short-range comms. Before the group musters, a wider coverage area of communications is required, to coordinate the rallying point. That wider range coverage is provided by HF NVIS!

The following video goes through key features every survival radio should have. It also summarizes the pros and cons of each of these radios for grid-down or off-grid survival. For a full review of each radio, check the videos posted later in this blog.

Requirements

Asking “Which is the best radio for survival?” can often leaad to many wrong answers to the question. A better question might be, “Which radio best fits our survival radio requirements?”. If nothing else, this question might lead us to much better answers. The reason is, in a disaster, grid down scenario, operating off grid, resources are not easy to come by. A radio well suited to a POTA activation might be the “worst-case scenario” for a grid-down disaster. Consider this, charging a radio on a normal day is easy and uneventful. Charging or powering a radio in a grid-down scenario, while only carrying what you have on your back, makes things much more difficult. For this reason, we have a set of important requirements, any radio chosen as our HF Survival Radio should have. Let’s go through them.

The following list includes the most important features, any HF Survival Radio should have:

• Low current consumption on RX & efficient TX consumption
• Minimum of 10 watts output, 5 watts is ok
• Band coverage
  • Best case band coverage 160M – 70cm
  • Acceptable band coverage 80M – 10M
  • Bare bones band coverage 80M – 20M
• Built-in audio interface for data comms
• Internal battery & fast charging
• Ability to charge the internal battery, while using and powering the radio
• Daylight readable display.

We can also expand the list to include these key yet often overlooked features.

• Built-in adjustable filters
• DSP, noise reduction, notch filter, …
• Standby mode for display
• Speech compressor built-in
• Easily accessible data port

Rigs mentioned in the video

The following radios are not an exhaustive list. I do not have a (tr)uSDX or Elecraft radios for demonstration. The (tr)uSDX is on the way! I do have the radios which have been demonstrated and reviewed on the channel over the years. This list includes Xiegu, Yaesu, Icom, and Lab599.

XIegu G90

The G90 is the our budget HF radio. Ultimately, the only things missing are the audio interface and external battery. At 20 watts output in a package similar to the Yaesu FT-818, this is an attractive option for someone able to live with the limited band coverage.

Xiegu X6100

The X6100 is portable portable, full featured radio. 10 watts output, built-in audio interface, filters and DSP built-in, … It suffers from slow firmware development from Xiegu, but open-source firmware has recently become available. Internal battery life is good, It can also be charged and powered externally while the radio is in use.

Yaesu FT-818

The Yaesu FT-81x is a 160M – 70cm all-mode portable HF radio, with a small form factor. It is the oldest but best-supported QRP radio by the aftermarket. Discontinued in 2024, but is still available on the used market. Definitely needs the filter fitted (if you can find one). I would suggest an external battery for the 81x. The internal Ni-MH battery pack is heavy and lacks energy density. The Windcamp Li-Ion battery pack with higher energy density than the AA Ni-MH, would be an excellent upgrade. For data it requires a Digirig, and works well with it. If you have the 817nd model, fit the RTC for more reliable data.

Lab599 TX500

The Lab599 TX-500 is the only “rugged” radio available from ham radio manufacturers. Milled from a single block of aluminum for strength and durability. The TX-500 is also comfortable in the rain, snow, and below-freezing operations. Its small modular form factor and ergonomic design are greatly appreciated. It lacks an audio interface but a Digirig can be easily fitted. Battery packs from both Lab599 and DIY599 are incoming and worth-while.The TX-500 is the only solution for those wanting a green radio option, in a pocket portable package.

Icom IC-705

The Icom IC-705 is the only FT-818 alternative with 160M – 70cm band coverage. It also has filters, DSP, notch, .. already fitted making it a full featured radio. The internal GPS is a nice touch, but can only be accessed by USB cable. Still, it allows us to leave a pocket GPS at home. The large screen is easy to read, but precautions must be taken to protect it during transport. Although larger than the other rigs in this post, all of its features means less to buy and carry as added features. This is the best equipped but least rugged out of the radio mentioned in this post. For difficult field work, I would recomment the Peovi full cage wrap and polycarbonate display protector. Having dropped my IC-705 twice without incident, the Peovi cage was an excellent inestment.

Based on many of the comments coming in, many operators still don’t understand my “Survival Radio” philosophy. Asynchronous messaging is at the core of my group’s communications strategy. A radio, tablet, and wire antenna make up the core of this all-mode, data station. Reducing capabilities eg a CW-only station, would reduce size and weight, but also irreconcilably reduce operational capability. Therefore, my station is made up of:

• HF Radio
• Microsoft Surface Tablet
• Wire multi-band antenna

Microsoft Surface

My primary computer for data mode communications is the Microsoft Surface Go 2. Despite its Windows operating system, the Surface Go 2 has performed flawlessly since taking it into use. Much easier to deploy and support than a Raspberry Pi, the Surface Go 2 is the best portable data mode comms investment, made in a very long time.

Digirig Mobile audio interface

For any radio used other than the Icom IC-705 or the Xiegu x6100, I use the Digirig Mobile. There is no point buying any other audio interface for man-portable ops! It is small, lightweight, has audio and cat control, has cross-platform compatibility, and excellent customer support. Our audio interface should not be as large as our radio. for man-portable ops, anything larger than a DigiRig is ridiculous!

Antennas strategy

I recently published a post and video entitled, Portable HF Antenna Strategy for off grid comms”. That video and blog correctly point out how NVIS for regional communication is ignored by most ham radio manufacturers. In fact, NVIS is more of an afterthought, as the majority of ham radio operators spend most of their time on the DX bands. Sadly, the emcomm and preparedness communities are definitely “niche” markets. I was able to find excellent options from Tim Ortiz N9SAB, who makes lightweight multiband antennas for man-portable ops.

Looking for other ways to support the channel?

Support the channel by shopping on ebay, at Battery Hookups or GigaParts.For GigaParts and Battery Hookup, use my callsign for a small discount.Alternatively, drop a little something in the TipJar. It really makes a difference.

• TipJar https://oh8stn.net/TipJar
• GigaParts: https://oh8stn.net/GigaParts
• Shop at Battery Hookup: https://oh8stn.net/batteryhookup
• Shop at eBay (affiliate link) : https://oh8stn.net/ebay
• Buy an N9SAB Antenna https://ebay.us/OVVZcG (eBay affiliate link)

Bear hunting with dogs brings a whole range of emotions to mind.

More specifically, the pretty controversial bear hounding.

However, there’s also another variant of bear hunting (which could actually be beneficial to wildlife).

But first, let’s explore bear hounding and why it often damages wildlife populations.

Some people disguise hounding as a service to society while others deem it a sick sport.

Even hunting advocates seem to turn their back on bear hounding because it’s not only unfair but damaging to wildlife1 and possibly their own dogs.

• Bear hounding often orphans cubs
• Being chased into trees incites incredible anxiety in the animals
• Hounds are often hurt during encounters
• Non-target animals are chased since controlling dogs over large distances is impossible
• Hunters often trespass on private property, target endangered species, or chase bears onto busy roads

Why are bear cubs orphaned?

Because hunters don’t care to check or misidentify the gender.

Sometimes, they eliminate the threat on sight when encounters with their dogs ensue.

Other times, bears are chased over miles and robbed of their energy2 which may seal their fate, just for the hunters to notice the bear is off-limits due to age or gender.

But as mentioned, bear hounding is not the only way to hunt bears with dogs.

Below, I’ve listed all the breeds suitable for bear hunting.

A lot of breeds mentioned in other articles are absolutely not suitable for hunting bears in any way, shape, or form.

What Are Bear Hunting Dog Breeds Used For?

Hounding doesn’t necessarily only serve as a sport, instead bear hunting dogs are also used in some areas to control rising bear populations, but modern non-lethal methods include Karelian Bear Dogs to scare bears away.

As the polar ice melts, the number of bears roaming northern rural regions in Russia increases3.

Naturally, this creates a conflict between the inhabitants of small towns and these massive (and endangered) Polar Bears.

All parties involved will hopefully seek out a peaceful solution instead of allowing bear hunting with dogs, especially considering that it’s us humans who are destroying their natural habitat.

North America might soon face a similar problem and wildlife and law enforcement are seeking solutions.

Until now, bears who’ve gotten too used to people are either euthanized or put far away into another territory, both far from optimal solutions.

Hounding is partly allowed to serve as “population control” but all these (partly inhumane tactics) could be replaced by an altogether different method.

Organizations such as the Wind River Bear Institute created an actionable plan that includes dogs – but in a non-lethal way.

Dogs such as the Karelian Bear Dogs4 are used to scare bears away in the following steps:

• Bears who get too close and/or too used to humans are identified
• Bear hunting dogs are brought in to scare them (resembling Coyotes out and about to steal bear cubs)
• Upon release, the dogs track the bear, bark, and nip at the bear’s heels until called back
• If the bear has gotten used to a specific spot, they trap the animal and bring in the dogs to scare them and then release
• Additional methods like firing rubber bullets can be utilized

Sadly, there’s not a lot of literature out there discussing this way of controlling bears.

Instead, most (outdated) research papers focus on traditional bear hounding and its efficacy.

Even though there aren’t a lot of resources, I’ve tried my best and compiled a list of breeds that were traditionally used and could be introduced in this more modern way below.

Any dog breed successfully working bears offers a huge upside to the old ways:

• No known injuries to the dogs
• Bears are not unnecessarily eliminated
• No compromise in safety around campgrounds and National Parks for humans
• Karelian Bears Dogs have been able to find evidence of poaching and save polar bear dens near oil or gas fields

However, not all areas (think residential) are suitable for this type of bear control.

Besides the labor to raise and train these dogs, controlling bears this way is more labor-intensive.

So now you know about hounding as well as non-lethal bear hunting with dogs, but which breeds are actually suitable?

9 Bear Hunting Dog Breeds

The best bear hunting dog breeds include the Karelian Bear Dog, Plotthound, Coonhound, Foxhound, as well as large game hunters such as the Dogo Argentino or Rhodesian Ridgeback.

Here’s the full list of dogs capable of hunting large game such as bears:

1. Karelian Bear Dog
2. Plotthound
3. Coonhound
4. American Foxhound
5. Bloodhound
6. German Shorthaired Pointer
7. German Wirehaired Pointer
8. Dogo Argentino
9. Rhodesian Ridgeback

Karelian Bear Dog

Among the top spots for dog breeds used to work bear is the Finnish black-and-white Karelian Bear Dog.

Early breed ambassadors have been recorded in other colors as well such as red-gray or pure red.

However, black-and-white emerged as the desired color since the breed standard was formulated in 1945.

The Karelian Bear Dog looks like a cross between Border Collie and Husky with some resemblance to breeds like the Samoyed or a more wolfish German Shepherd.

While working bear is their field of expertise, they can also compete in search and rescue or sled dog trials due to their sturdy double coat and endurance.

Plott Hound

Technically also among the Coonhounds, the Plott Hound has a different ancestor though.

Plott Hounds don’t descend from English Foxhounds but rather from “Hanover hounds” in Germany.

The German immigrant who brought these dogs to the US frequently hunted bears in the mountains with his dogs.

Coonhound

There are various types of Coonhounds such as the Redbone, Bluetick, Black and Tan, American English, and Treeing Walker Coonhound.

Treeing Walker Coonhounds are among the most loving of the Hounds and quite sensible hunters too.

Ever wondered where the word “treeing” comes from?

It’s because this Hound is known to trail smaller game until it climbs a tree with the dog waiting below and barking to signal the location to the hunter.

Walker comes from the breed’s creator.

This breed is also commonly used for traditional bear hunting where the dogs hunt outside the hunter’s control and often camp for quite a long time at the bottom of the tree.

American Foxhound

The American Foxhound’s robust yet sleek frame is complimented by their soft eyes.

The bark that makes bear hunters love the American Foxhound could prove detrimental to your neighbor’s ears.

So before considering one, beware of their fierce barking which can only be controlled through training and exercise to some degree.

Bloodhound

Bloodhounds are known to be among the dogs with the best sense of smell out there (that and their incredibly long ears).

Did you know that the sloppy ears are actually there to block out sound when they’re following trails?

German Shorthaired Pointer

The German Shorthaired Pointer is a versatile hunting dog.

While Pointers are usually trained to point at birds, they can theoretically be used for pursuing and barking at bears too.

German Wirehaired Pointer

German Wirehaired Pointers could be a good fit for hunting bears.

The German Wirehaired Pointer may sound and look similar to the GSP but they’re different breeds.

While their wiry coat places first on the GWPs identifiable traits, their very loving and quite independent character is a close second.

Make sure you have plenty of time and commitment to research since this is a very active breed.

Dogo Argentino

The Dogo Argentino is the first dog of the Mastiff type on this list (there are actually 22 Mastiffs in total).

Rhodesian Ridgeback

Rhodesian Ridgebacks are actually hunting lions in packs in their home country.

Contrary to popular belief, Ridgebacks don’t actually fight the lions, but they’re good at baying them.

What is the Best Bear Hunting Dog?

The best bear hunting dog is probably the Karelian Bear Dog with Hounds coming in a close second.

What the best bear hunting dog breed is also dependent upon the climate and geography in general.

In colder climates, the Siberian Laika was commonly used for hunting and/or baying bears while Hounds are more suitable and widely available in the USA.

In theory, many other dog breeds such as large game hunters or pointers could be trained to do parts of working bear but they’re not bred specifically for this purpose.

They are bred for a variety of work though and technically could be used for working bears in a non-lethal way.

Are Karelian Bear Dogs Rare?

Karelian Bear Dogs are rare as household pets in the US while they are consistently among the top 10 in their home country Finland5.

In Finland, there are over 1000 Finnish Hounds (i.e. Karelian Bear Dogs) registered each year which puts them at spot number 7 for the most popular breeds in 2019 and 20206.

At least 700 KBDs were registered in Finland for over a decade now.

That being said, there were 50,000 registrations in total so that puts the KBD only at about 2% of the total registrations.

As of July 2024, the database has not been updated with current registration numbers.

Everywhere else in the world, it’s safe to say that the KBD is pretty rare except for countries with increasing bear populations (even then, it’s not guaranteed).

Besides North America – where hunting is regulated by each state – and Northern Europe where the KBD is used for elks, Asia and Russia come to mind but there have been no reports of the KBD being common there.

The fact of the matter is that bear dogs may save lives. Look no further than what they did in Washington.7

Sources

1. Humane Society: Facts about bear hounding (…) ↩︎
2. ResearchGate, 2019: Behavioral and Physiological Responses of Scandinavian Brown Bears (Ursus arctos) to Dog Hunts (…) ↩︎
3. Phys.org, 2019: Weak Arctic ice sees 56 polar bears descend on Russian village ↩︎
4. Beardogs.org: KBD history ↩︎
5. Finnish Kennel Club: Karelian Bear Dog ↩︎
6. Finnish Kennel Club, 2020: KBD registration numbers ↩︎
7. Spokesman-Review (Washington newspaper), 2019: Washington’s first Karelian Bear Dogs, credited with busting poachers and saving kittens, die ↩︎

Disclaimer: This blog post does not substitute veterinary attention and does not intend to do so. I am not a veterinarian or pet nutritionist. If your dog shows any sign of illness, call your vet.

Here are 3 Types Of Ax Options (Plus Multiple Reviews) For Off-Roading and Overlanding

As Brenan mentioned in his Every Day Carry article way back in November of ’17, an ax is a great accessory for Overlanding and general camping use. Choosing an ax can be rather daunting. There are a wide variety of designs for both general and specialized purposes.

Much of the selection process comes down to what tasks you want the ax to help you accomplish, and your preferences in construction, quality, and feel. What follows are some quick reviews of axes I’ve used in over the past two decades, as well as some features that may be useful for vehicle-based camping.

What to Consider?

The first thing to consider is what size and type of ax you are looking for.

They come in many different lengths, styles, materials, and handles. Depending on how you travel, explore and carry your gear will contribute to what type of tool you need. By definition, a hatchet is really just a light-weight ax but then you have compact axes, compact hatchets, tomahawks, and many others.

Whether compact or full-size, an ax can and will come in handy for most of us off-roaders or overlanders out there. First, decide on how you intend on using the ax. Are you looking to split logs at camp or clear branches on the trail? Take a look at the list below and determine which style and material you relate with. Then check out our reviews below and let us know your thoughts in the comments section.

Styles:

• Full-size Ax
• Tomahawk Ax
• Compact Ax
• Splitting Ax
• Hatchet Ax
• Compact Hatchet Ax
• Multi-Tool Axes

Materials

• Steel
• Composite
• Wood

Option 1. Composite Handled Axes & Hatchets

Gerber is an American-based subsidiary of Fiskars, a Finnish company perhaps best known for their pruning shears and other cutting tools that boast orange handles.

As a side note, the popular Fiskars pruning shears are actually a great option throw in your overland gear bag as well. They are small, nimble and really get the job done when it comes to small brush branches.

In years past, Fiskars made composite handled axes under both nameplates in Finland. The handles wrap around, rather than pass through, the ax head. Fiskars advertising appears to be directed toward yard care, whereas Gerber leans more toward the outdoors.

The primary distinguishing feature, however, is handle color.

Gerber or Fiskar Hatchets?

• Gerber: Check Price
• Fiskars: Check Price

The Fiskars hatchet in the photo above is now almost two decades old. Levy’s, a Canadian leathercraft manufacturer, made the sheath in the picture. It lives in a toolbox in my 4Runner now but has been a useful companion on many backpacking trips over the years. On a wilderness survival training experience for teachers near Alaska wherein it somehow was the only cutting tool to arrive in camp, the little Fiskars even held its own splitting driftwood.

For a few years, I used a Gerber Sport Ax, which featured a longer handle and heavier head than the Fiskars hatchet. Unfortunately, it disappeared during one of my moves between villages. The model has since been replaced in Gerber’s lineup by the Sport Ax II. If you are looking for an ultra-compact hatchet, take a look at the Gerber Pack Hatchet Camping Axe.

Even more aggressive in their lineup of composite axes is the Gerber Downrange Tomahawk. Although it is not an “axe” it sure is close. It packs a steel frame with a Cerakote coating and is finished with a composite handle. The multi-tool has three functions; Axe, Hammer Head, and Pry Bar with integrated prying handle. This is a robust and pricy option.

Gerber Hatchets and Axes

• Gerber Sport Axe II: Check Price
• Gerber Pack Hatchet Camping Axe: Check Price
• Gerber Downrange Tomahawk: Check Price

Both Fiskars and Gerber offer a variety of useful axes for overlanding use. My preferences lean strongly toward wood-handled axes, but the utility and durability of composite-handled axes are undeniable.

Browning’s Tomahawk-Like Axes for Limbing and Light Chopping

In contrast to the Finnish offerings mentioned above, Browning’s ax offerings are limited to the Outdoorsman’s Ax and Outdoorsman’s Compact Hatchet.

For all practical purposes, only the former has any real utility for overlanding. I’ve owned an older version of this ax for about a decade, but have used it sparingly. The 24” handle is of similar construction to the Finnish axes, but the tang of the handle passes through the ax head instead of wrapping around the head. Browning describes the head as a tomahawk design, and it does an exceptional job with limbing and light chopping duties.

Find It Online:

• Browning’s Outdoorsman’s Composite-Handled Ax: Check Price
• Browning’s Outdoorsman’s Compact Hatchet: Check Price

Overall, this is a lightweight, durable ax at a fair price – a worthy rival to the Fiskars/Gerber duo – so why don’t I use mine more often? The answer comes down to personal preference. To me, the Estwing – and especially the Helko Werk Black Forest Worker reviewed below – just feel better to use.

Option 2. All-Steel Axes

Providing perhaps the best value in a high quality, high utility camp ax, the Estwing Camper’s Ax from the Estwing All Steel Ax Lineup is positively boring in its durability.

The made in the USA Camper’s Ax is unique among the offerings in this review in being of all-steel construction. This means the head and handle are one solid forged piece. The Camper’s Ax comes with either an 18.75” or 26” handle and a shock-reducing rubber grip. A black powder-coated special edition is also available.

Find It Online:

• Estwing Made in the USA Camper’s All-Steel Ax (26″): Check Price
• Estwing Camper’s Axe – 16″ Hatchet: Check Price

Lightweight All-Steel Ax For Serious Wood Splitting

The Camper’s Ax has quite a following in Alaska among people who depend on their tools for more than recreational use. Well-used examples adorn boats, ATVs, and snowmobiles throughout the backcountry. My own example survived being run over by a snowmobile and thoroughly abused by students in a wilderness survival class. It could use a thorough cleaning and some love from a file, but I know it’s still good for decades of use.

The Camper’s Ax is on the light side for serious splitting but is an outstanding all-around choice for limbing and felling duties. If you want an ax that can take a lot of abuse and requires minimal care in return, the Camper’s Ax is an excellent choice.

Other useful offerings from Estwing include the Sportsman’s Ax and the Fireside Friend. The Sportsman’s Ax is essentially a hatchet-length version of the Camper’s Ax, while the Fireside Friend is a lightweight, short-handled splitter.

Option 3. Wood-Handled Axes

One of the premier names among ax aficionados, Gransfors Bruk has an impeccable reputation for quality.

These are heirloom-caliber gear. They offer a wide catalog of specialized axes and accessories. Master craftsmen in Sweden forge these axes and mark the one they produce with their initials.

Leather Sheath For Gransfors Bruk Axes

Each ax comes with a reference book, which allows the buyer to see which craftsman made their individual ax. A leather sheath is included, but buyers may want to consider upgrading to a Beneath the Stars sheath after their purchase, as it is a more durable design. The hickory handle features subtle finger grooves for maintaining grip in wet weather or while wearing gloves.

Find It Online:

• Beneath the Stars Sheath: Check Price

Gransfor Bruk Hunter’s Ax

The Hunter’s Ax has long been a personal favorite, but my much-used example lives in my hunting pack rather than my 4Runner. Its most unique feature, a flay poll that aids in skinning large ungulates, has limited utility for overlanding chores. The Hunter’s Ax is a highly capable work of art, but there are better choices for camping.

Find It Online:

• Gransfor Bruk Wood-Handled Hunter’s Ax: Check Price

Gransfor Bruk Splitting Hatchet

The Splitting Hatchet packs a lot of firewood splitting power in a compact package that fits readily in toolboxes or backpacks.

It features a 19” handle that can be wielded in one hand or both. The head weighs 3.3 pounds, with a thin face that broadens quickly to aid in forcing the wood apart. A protective steel collar at the base of the head guards against damage to the handle from overstrikes. This is an outstanding ax for splitting small quantities of firewood, especially for camp stoves.

Find It Online:

• Gransfor Bruk Wood-Handled Splitting Hatchet: Check Price

Hand-Crafted Helko Werk’s Wood-Handled Axes

Another high-quality European brand, Helko Werk’s axes are forged in Wuppertal, Germany.

Much like Gransfors Bruk, Helko Werk employs master smiths who handcraft each individual piece. While these craftsmen and women obviously take pride in their work, they do not press their initials are pressed into the ax heads.

Helk Werk’s Black Forest Woodworker Ax

The Black Forest Woodworker may be the most versatile ax I own. It certainly has seen the most use during my time in Alaska. The slightly exaggerated sweep of the blade face (a feature of Rheinland pattern ax heads) makes it ideal for limbing and falling smaller trees, and it is more than capable of light splitting duty.

Find It Online:

• Helk Werk’s Black Forest Woodworker Ax: Check Price

24″ American Hickory Handle Replacements

At 24”, the American hickory handle fits without complaint in a canoe or on an ATV rack. Mine is on its second handle after a certain dog thought it would make the perfect chew toy. Fortunately, replacement handles are available on the website. If you want an all-around ax that matches the Estwing Camp Ax in utility but has a bit more character, this may be the ax for you.

Helk Werk’s Spaltaxt Wood-Splitting Ax

The Spaltaxt is easier to use than it is to pronounce.

A mid-weight ax with a 4.5-pound dual-wedge head, the Spaltaxt is a wood splitting fiend. The extra wedge prevents the head from getting stuck, while the 28” handle yields enough leverage to get the job done without taking up excessive space. If your overlanding adventures require frequent splitting, this is one of the best tools for the job.

Find It Online:

• Helko Werk’s Spaltaxt Wood-Splitting Ax: Check Price

Final Thoughts

I must confess, I am a bit of a geek for axes, so choosing just one to recommend may be more difficult for me than for others.

Perhaps the best recommendation I can make is to visit hardware and sporting goods stores and see how the various offerings feel in your hands. This is one piece of equipment best purchased in person rather than online.

It is a fair assumption that most people who shoot rarely consider shot string. Yes, they may think of the pattern and the speed at which it travels. But the pattern to most mind’s eyes is a plate-shaped circle, with hopefully not too many holes in it.

This is precisely what you see when you test a gun on a pattern plate. You get a pretty good idea of how your gun and cartridge combination are performing. But not entirely. For as the pellets fly through the air, they not only do so in the shape of an ever-widening plate but in a long string which extends in flight. In approximate terms it can be around 5 feet in length at 20 yards extending to 8 feet at 30 yards.

The variation is as a result of deformation of pellets as they pass along the barrel. Those at the bottom of the load in the cartridge will suffer most, as a consequence of which their flight will not be true, nor will they travel at quite the same speed as the front end of the load which will consist of still fairly perfectly spherical pellets.

In effect you are sending a column of pellets in front of the intended target. I’m not normally in favour of getting too bogged down in the technicalities of ballistics, I am more interested in getting the string to the right spot. But I do think that it is useful to understand the dynamics of shot string, as it can give you more confidence in placing your shot ahead of a crossing bird. Ideally you will connect with the centre of the string, where there will be a good concentration of pellets. But you can give a little more forward allowance than you might think is necessary, and the shot string will look after you. Not to mention a good spread of pellets across a 30” circle. Basically it’s a wonder we ever miss!

Of course we are talking about a shot charge travelling at 1100fps, so it’s not as simple as it sounds, but nevertheless an understanding of the dynamics of the content of your cartridge can only help.

The quality of the cartridge can also make a difference. It is worth trying a few different makes to find which one is the most compatible with your gun. Performance can vary. Generally, as with most things in life, the more expensive cartridges are better, but it may well be that the ‘own brand’ cheapies from your local farm shop will do the trick. Once you have found what suits you then stick with it.

Then provided your gun fits you properly, your confidence with your chosen cartridge will blossom. You will not be filled with doubt about your combination – you can just get on with your shooting. The odd misses will be inevitable – forget them. It’s the next shot that counts. Have confidence.

It’s behind you!

Many of you will enjoy some partridge shooting in the coming weeks. Footwork is crucial for all shooting, but for low ground partridge never more so.

We all know the shot. The guns are lined out about 30-40 yards back from a tall hedgerow. The birds appear as if from nowhere. Ideally you take your shot in front, but miss with your first barrel, then attempt to take a bird as it retreats into the distance behind you. Miss! And you end up practically tied up in knots.

Just why are those birds behind you so difficult? I am often asked this question and the answer is quite simple. Footwork.

The speed at which the birds approach induces a degree of panic, but in reality there is a lot more time than you think. We all know that when you shoot a bird in front, for a right hander your left leading foot will be pointing in the direction of where you intend to take the shot. The same applies to any shot. So you have to move your body to get into position. You simply need to be alert to what is happening.

Let’s go back to the beginning. You arrive at your peg for the drive. From this moment you need to be focused. Forget about chatting to the guy at the next peg, or fiddling with your gunslip, sorting cartridges or talking to your dog. Get ready, look around you for any possible picker-ups or other hazards behind you. Get loaded and be fully tuned for what’s happening. Otherwise if an early covey bursts over the hedgerow, you may miss a chance of a good right & left, that might well be your only opportunity of the day. If you are chatting with your neighbouring Gun, this is also an insult to your host. So be ready.

Keep a sharp lookout from where you expect the first birds to appear. Your shot in front will be practically, move, mount shoot. There is no conscious effort to give lead. Your gun speed will do what’s needed providing you have the gun properly mounted and are looking at the bird’s beak.

But should you miss, don’t simply follow it. Turn, with your gun down but muzzles pointing safely upwards. Let your feet take the body round so that your leading leg is pointing towards the bird, your eyes fixed on it, then mount onto it and shoot.

If however there is gale blowing, and the bird is quartering between you and the next Gun, this really can be a tricky shot. It might well be 45 yards out before you are able to pull the trigger. On a grouse moor this can be exaggerated. I was out in a strong wind in September, and a quartering bird behind the line was at least 60 yards distant by the time you could safely pick it up. It was therefore paramount to shoot in front.

For most of these shots your body and feet need to be turned, so that you can pick up the bird with your gun muzzle at least 30 degrees past the line of the Guns.

If you are still standing with your body facing frontwards, and then turn and twist without moving your feet then you will be lucky indeed to connect with anything.

An easy analogy can be made with cricketers and tennis players. In order to make a good shot they get their feet and body into position before striking the ball. The really good players seem to have so much more time.

The same applies to shooting. Keep your cool and give yourself time. If you feel the shot must be taken behind, adjust your feet and turn round on your peg so that the point of taking the shot the body is completely comfortable.

Of course the same applies to high crossing pheasants, but the whole procedure is exaggerated with hedgerow partridges.